You’ve likely heard of a morel mushroom, but what’s the deal with the “fake” one? And, why does it matter? If you’re new to morel foraging, you’ll want to fully understand all the look-alikes. And, sadly, there isn’t just one. There’s actually several morel look-alikes that are called false morels.

Jump to:

• What Is A False Morel?
• False Morel Mushroom Facts
• How to Identify the False Morel Mushroom
• A False Morel Quiz:
• Be Safe
• Who’s Eating These Mushrooms….and Why?

What Is A False Morel?

The term “false morel” encompasses a number of different species including Gyromitra esculenta (the beefsteak mushroom), Gyromitra caroliniana, and others in the Verpa and Helvella genera. They are often mistaken for the edible delicacies in the Morchella genus (true morels).

The false morels include some poisonous mushrooms that contain the chemical monomethyl hydrazine (MMH). MMH causes vomiting, dizziness, diarrhea, and sometimes death. Furthermore, MMH is suspected to be carcinogenic. (Read more and, here)

“But wait,” you ask, “haven’t I heard of people eating these mushrooms with no ill effect?”

You probably have. Many people have eaten them and even hunt for them specifically. It may surprise you that Gyromitra esculenta is considered a delicacy in parts of the United States and in parts of Scandinavia. You can buy them in Finland, where they come with preparation instructions.

So what’s the problem? One danger is the varying levels of MMH in different gyromitra mushrooms. Some species contain very little, others contain enough to kill. MMH levels also vary among geographic regions within a single species. Nobody knows how toxic any false morel will be in any location.

Let’s learn more about the fake morel. We’ll start with some facts, move on to identification, and finally take a look at who eats these mushrooms. For a more complete list of straight morel mushroom hunting tips click here.

False Morel Mushroom Facts

• Most gyromitra appear in the spring and summer and grow directly on the ground. Although some are found on wood or later in the year, they are unlikely to be mistaken for true morels.
• Caps are usually brown or reddish-brown and occasionally yellow. Most stems are a light color, ranging from white to tan.
• These mushrooms are considered saprotrophs, meaning they feed on dead and decaying organic matter. Some have suggested that they may be mycorrhizal as well (forming a symbiotic relationship with trees).
• Like true morels, false ones are often found in areas where the forest floor has been disrupted. You’re more likely to see them near washes, rivulets, man-made disturbances in the ground, and roadsides.
• Some species that are considered false are Gyromitra esculenta, Gyromitra caroliniana (above), Gyromitra infula, Verpa bohemica, and Verpa conica.
• There are many common names associated with the more commonly foraged false morels, including beefsteaks and calf’s brain. Beefsteak is also the common name for another edible mushroom, which is VERY confusing. Common names are tricky,; be sure you are firm on your identifications and understanding!

How to Identify the False Morel Mushroom

So how do you tell a true morel from a false one? Observe the following:

• Make note of the cap shape. The false caps that are “wavy” or “lobed”. They appear to be bulging outwards. True morels have a more uniformly shaped cap with pits or ridges. The true morel cap looks like honeycomb with pits angled inwards rather than bulging.
• The cap of the false mushroom hangs freely from the stem. A true morel has a cap that will be attached to the stem. This is not always the case but more often than not it is.
• If you slice an edible morel open from top to bottom it will be hollow inside. A non-edible one will usually be filled with wispy cotton-like fibers or chunks of tissue. (Fabulous example of this on the right).

Go here for a more in-depth article, including a handy chart, on how to tell a true morel mushroom from a false morel.

Always consult a local expert if you’re inexperienced or uncertain. Never eat a mushroom-based solely on mushroom pictures that you’ve seen on the Internet! This goes for ALL mushrooms, not just morels or false morels.

If you feel sick or dizzy after eating what you thought was an edible morel, seek help immediately!

Who’s Eating These Mushrooms….and Why?

The picture at the right shows false morels for sale at a market in Helsinki, Finland. People in other parts of Europe and parts of the United States eat them as well. They often come with warnings and preparation instructions.

While some false morels are prepared simply, others must be boiled 2-3 times to remove toxins before they are safe to eat. Through boiling, the toxins are reduced and the mushrooms become edible. This practice of double (or triple) boiling has been used for centuries to make the mushroom safe to eat.

However, studies show that MMH is a cumulative toxin. This means that its levels will build up in your body after repeated consumption. This could lead to illness or even death. Please, keep that in mind before eating. It may be that there isn’t much of a danger since rarely is a person eating enough of these mushrooms to cause extreme danger, but it’s possible. More studies need to be done with humans first.

Plenty of people eat these for years with no problems. But do you want to risk it? Personally, since no one knows exactly how toxic any given mushroom will be, we think it’s best to just avoid them altogether.

Many gyromitra enthusiasts will disagree, and that’s fine. We always err on the side of caution. The choice is yours, ultimately, so do your research well before eating. There’s a great active community on Facebook called False Morels Demystified which explores eating and safe preparations. They are a wealth of information for the curious.

While the MeatEater crew may not publish directly a list of their specific equipment, with a little patience and some research we have identified some of the rifles that Steve Rinella does in fact shoot. These rifles are all similar but each are unique. Each of them is a high quality option, and represents a variety of budgets.

Steven Rinella shoots a variety of rifle models but always chooses left-hand actions and currently prefers the Weatherby Mark V Meateater Edition Rifle that he helped design. He has also been seen using a Savage Arms 110 rifle, a Custom Carolina Rifle, a custom built Weaver Rifle, and a CZ Model 452 for small game.

A similarity between all these rifles is all are left handed actions. Below we will talk about each one of these rifles. Keep reading to find out more about these rifles.

Weatherby Mark V Meateater Edition

If you were to find Steve Rinella out hunting today, there is a good chance Steve would have his custom Weatherby Mark V MeatEater edition rifle in tow. This rifle was designed by Steve and is exclusively available in a left handed action. The rifle has the legendary Mark V action, which is one of the strongest bolt actions in the world thanks to its 9 locking lugs.

It also boasts an amazing 54 degree bolt lift, providing plenty of room for the largest optics. Like all Mark V rifles, the MeatEater edition has a SUB-MOA accuracy guarantee, a custom Trigger Tech Trigger and threaded barrel. The rifle comes with the with Weatherby’s Accubrake ST installed on the threaded barrel to reduce felt recoil.

The custom features of this edition include a unique #2 contour barrel with spiral fluting. The fluting allows the use of a heavier barrel contour, which helps with accuracy, but keeps the rifle weight down for those long spot and stalk hunts Steve is known for. The fluting also helps keep the barrel cooler between shots, another great way to increase the shot to shot accuracy of the rifle. All the metal of the rifle is coated with Cerakote to withstand any weather. The color scheme was pick by Steve, and is a combination of tungsten and black.

This custom rifle is paired with a hand laid, fiberglass stock. The stock is black with custom brown and gray accents. The stock is a Monte Carlo style for a solid cheek weld, and classic look. Currently this edition is only available in three calibers: .257 Weatherby Magnum, .300 Weatherby Mangrum, and 6.5-300 Weatherby magnum. I wasn’t able to determine in my research which of these calibers Steve has personally selected, but if I had to take a guess I would put my money on the .300 Weatherby magnum, with the 6.5-300 Weatherby magnum as a second choice.

Currently the rifle is listed with an MSRP of $2099.00 dollars on the Weatherby website. While the cost of this rifle is high, a full custom rifle easily exceeds this price. Should you wish to have something similar without the high cost, consider the MeatEater Edition Weatherby Vanguard, a full featured rifle for less than half the cost of the Mark V.

Savage Arms Rifle

Prior to his partnership with Weatherby, Steve was partnered with Savage Arms. This partnership comes as no surprise, Savage makes fine hunting rifles and Savage has a long history of providing left handed rifles, something Steve prefers as a left handed shooter. While my research didn’t turn up a lot of specifics regarding the specific rifle Steve was using from Savage, a few educated guess can help us have an idea of what he was using.

Steve said of his savage rifle, in a video on rifle fit, that he liked his Savage rifle because for an off the shelf rifle it fit him great. Paired with Talley scope mounts and a Vortex Razor scope Steve felt like he never had trouble finding his target even when shooting from very unconventional positions.

After watching some video and looking at photos of Steve using his Savage rifle I determined a few details. The rifle was most likely from the Savage 110 family of rifles. Steve’s specific rifle appeared to have stainless steel barrel with a very heavy contour. The stock appeared to be the classic Savage Accustock. Steve did confirm in a video that he uses Talley scope mounts.

If I were to venture a guess on his specific caliber for this rifle, I would lean towards 7mm Remington magnum or .300 Winchester magnum, as Steve has made mention on the MeatEater blog about preferring cartridges that are capable for taking cleanly all the north American game animals and those two calibers are mention specifically as good choices. Prices on the Savage 110 varies from low cost to high-end, allowing a wide variety of budgets the ability to have a quality hunting rifle.

Custom Carolina Rifle

Prior to his partnership with Savage Arms, Steve could often be seen hunting with his Custom Carolina Rifle (CCR for short) in the field. This rifle made by Carolina Custom Rifles was, and likely still is, one of Steve’s favorite rifles. His chambering of choice for this rifle was the 7mm Remington Magnum.

Custom Carolina Rifles builds solid, accurate, high end rifles. When you choose to hunt with a Custom Carolina Rifle, this company will become your partner, including you in all the decision making to make sure your rifle is exactly what you need it to be. While I wasn’t able to track down the exact specs of Steve’s CCR rifle, I can tell you that CCR uses only the best actions, barrels and stocks. Some of the parts are from Lilja, or Hart custom barrels. Actions from Stiller Predator are blueprinted and paired with stock options from companies like H-S Precision, McMillan, or Manners. Buyers can expect triggers by Timney or Jewell triggers, according to the CCR rifles website.

A quick look into the MeatEater social media posts and photos and you can tell that his CCR has a custom fluted barrel, paired with a solid and great looking camouflaged stock. One of the points that Steve makes about his experience with CCR rifles is that they not only built the rifle based on the demands of his hunting schedule, but CCR service also includes pairing the rifle with the perfect Vortex optic and provided assistance establishing a great custom hand load for supreme accuracy.

Rifles from CCR begin at $4795.00, no small sum of money, however this expense provides not only an amazing rifle guaranteed to shoot 1/2 MOA or less, but includes amazing customer service and additional resources and help beyond just the rifle.

Weaver Custom Rifle

A deep dive into Steve’s twitter revealed another great custom built rifle from Weaver Custom Rifle based out of Peyton, CO. Chambered in .270 WSM this rifle was described as a lightweight mountain rifle. Using a left handed Winchester model 70 action, Steve paired it with a 4-16 x 50mm Vortex optic. The stock is a Synthetic HT stock, color is tan with black webbing. Weaver Rifles included a custom floor plate engraved with the MeatEater Logo.

Should one wish to build a Weaver custom rifle, you can expect to spend $3000.00 dollars or more. They have tons of pictures of the rifles they have built available to view on their website. I recommend checking them out if you are in the market for a custom rifle.

One of the most unique parts of this rifle is the caliber selected. .270 WSM is a great flat shooting cartridge with a short action, perfect for a lightweight mountain rifle that doesn’t have punishing recoil. Finding the ammunition on the shelf might be trickier that other calibers, but this is great choice for big horn sheep and mountain goat hunting.

CZ 452

If you spend a little time looking through Steve Rinella’s social media, you might find a picture of him hunting squirrels. His pictures often show him shooting at his quarry from a variety of unconventional positions, but if your looking at what rifle he is shooting, high chance it is his left handed CZ 452. I couldn’t determine for sure the caliber for Steve’s rifle, but if I were to guess I would bet it is a .22 LR.

The CZ model 452 is a classic bolt action rimfire rifle. Available in all the classic rimfire cartridges, what likely made it the choice of Steve Rinella was that it was available with a left handed action. Should you wish to obtain one of these high quality rifles, you’ll either need to find the model 452 second hand or move to the updated model 457. MSRP on the 457 is around $475.00 or more depending on configuration.

Micro compact 9mm pistols offer enhanced concealability, making them perfect for self-defense, concealed carry, and even home defense.

With so many unique designs, capabilities, and features available, it is challenging to find the perfect fit.

Whether you are a beginner or an experienced gun enthusiast, there is sure to be a micro 9mm pistol that will meet your needs on the list below.

From top brands such as Smith & Wesson, Springfield Armory, and Sig Sauer, these pistols will offer unique features and durable designs that you can count on.

So, if you are looking for a compact and lightweight handgun that can fit in your pocket, purse, or nightstand, consider these 8 Best Micro 9mm Pistols for 2024.

#1. Smith & Wesson Shield Plus 9mm Pistol With Thumb Safety

• Barrel Length: 3.1”
• Overall Length: 6.1”
• Weight: 20.2 oz
• Capacity: 10, 13

For shooters looking for a comfortable micro compact 9mm with plenty of features, the Smith & Wesson Shield Plus 9mm Pistol With Thumb Safety is an excellent option.

With an overall length of 6.1” and weighing just 20.2 ounces, it is perfect for an all-day concealed carry for self-defense.

It also comes with a flush-fit 10-round magazine for improved concealment and a 13-round magazine for improved capacity.

To provide you with enhanced control and comfort, it includes an enhanced grip texture and has an optimal 18-degree grip angle for an ergonomic grip with a natural point of aim.

Smith & Wesson also gave it a flat face trigger for consistent finger placement, and the pistol has a 5.3” sight radius to improve accuracy.

It also includes a tactile and audible trigger reset to give you more control over your shots.

If you are looking for a micro compact 9mm pistol that has an ergonomic design for natural aiming and consistent shot groups, the Smith & Wesson Shield Plus 9mm Pistol With Thumb Safety is a top pick.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#2. Springfield Armory Hellcat 3” Micro-Compact 9mm Pistol

• Barrel Length: 3”
• Overall Length: 6”
• Weight: 17.9 oz
• Capacity: 11, 13

The Springfield Armory Hellcat 3” Micro-Compact 9mm Pistol is perfect for home defense, self-defense, and the range.

This pistol is perfect for acquiring your target in a flash with its U-Dot sights.

It includes front tritium and luminescent sights and a rear Tactical Rack sight, providing an excellent sight picture in any lighting condition.

It only weighs 17.9 ounces and has a 6” overall length, making it perfect for a comfortable all-day carry.

The pistol features adaptive grip texture and a dual captive recoil spring system with a full length guide rod to give you enhanced control.

Springfield Armory built the Hellcat 3” Micro-Compact to last with a black polymer frame, a hammer-forged 3” steel barrel with a Melonite finish, and a serrated billeted machine slide with a Melonite finish.

Even with its compact size, it still has an excellent 13-round capacity with the extended magazine, and it comes with a flush-fit 11-round capacity magazine for enhanced concealment.

If you are looking for a quality micro-compact 9mm pistol that offers enhanced sights and a great capacity, the Springfield Armory Hellcat 3” Micro-Compact 9mm Pistol is an excellent choice.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#3. Sig Sauer P365 9mm Pistol 12 Rd RTT TACPAC

• Barrel Length: 3.1”
• Overall Length: 5.8”
• Weight: 17.8 oz
• Capacity: 10, 12, 15

The Sig Sauer P365 9mm Pistol 12 Rd RTT TACPAC is a micro-compact ideal for shooters who want a lightweight and compact firearm with tons of features.

One thing that sticks out about the P365 is its patented double stack design, which allows you to have a flush fit magazine for better concealment or a 15-round full-size magazine for an impressive capacity in a micro-compact.

It includes one 15-round and two 12-round magazines to ensure you have plenty of ammo for any situation.

It has a coyote polymer grip module for all-weather use and a Nitron slide with serrations for light deflection and grip.

The P365 also includes Xray3 day/night sights to give you the edge in low light environments.

It also has a striker fire design with a crisp trigger pull you would expect from a Sig Sauer.

When you buy the P365, you also get an ambidextrous IWB/OWB holster for comfortable weapon concealment.

The Sig Sauer P365 9mm Pistol 12 Rd RTT TACPAC is perfect for shooters who want double-stack capacity in a micro-compact frame.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#4. Springfield Hellcat OSP 11/13rd 3” 9mm Pistol

• Barrel Length: 3”
• Overall Length: 6”
• Weight: 17.9 oz
• Capacity: 11, 13

The Springfield Hellcat OSP 11/13rd 3” 9mm Pistol is an excellent choice for shooters who want a micro-compact 9mm compatible with micro red dot sights.

The pistol comes with a sleek Desert Flat Dark Earth polymer frame, a Cerakote finished slide, and a 3” hammer forged barrel with a Melonite finish for a worry-free all-day concealed carry.

With tritium/luminescent front and tactical rack U-notch rear sights, you will have an excellent sight picture in any lighting condition.

You can easily install a micro red dot optic if you wish to upgrade your sights with the rear slide mounting platform.

To enhance your shooting experience, Springfield Armory equipped the Hellcat with a dual captive recoil spring with a full-length guide rod for smoother operation and less recoil to provide you with tighter shot groups.

It also includes an adaptive grip texture to provide enhanced control and comfort.

The Hellcat comes with one 11-round magazine and one 13-round magazine to provide you a flush or extended grip for more control or concealment.

It also comes with an accessory rail to equip a flashlight or laser.

If you are looking for a reliable micro-compact milled for optics, the Springfield Hellcat OSP 11/13rd 3” 9mm Pistol is the perfect option for you.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#5. Taurus GX4 9mm Pistol 11 Rnd 3”

• Barrel Length: 3”
• Overall Length: 5.8”
• Weight: 18.5 oz
• Capacity: 11

The Taurus GX4 9mm Pistol 11 Rnd 3” is an excellent micro-compact for shooters who want a concealed carry or home defense weapon on a budget.

Even though it is a budget-friendly option, the GX4 9mm is a rugged weapon that can be relied on to defend yourself.

Taurus crafted it with a polymer grip with a comfortable texture and an ergonomic design to provide a micro-compact that feels great in your hands with a natural feel.

It also has two backstrap options to customize your grip for improved control, comfort, and accuracy.

They constructed the slide of durable alloy steel with a gas Nitride coating, and the 3” barrel has a black DLC coating to provide protection against scratches, damage, and corrosion.

It also has an 11-round capacity and includes two magazines out of the box.

The Taurus GX4 9mm Pistol 11 Rnd 3” is an excellent option if you are looking for an affordable micro-compact for self-defense and home defense.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#6. Smith & Wesson CSX 9mm Pistol Micro Compact

• Barrel Length: 3.1”
• Overall Length: 6.1”
• Weight: 19.5 oz
• Capacity: 10, 12

The Smith & Wesson CSX 9mm Pistol Micro Compact is an excellent option for left-handed shooters with its ambidextrous slide release, manual safeties, and controls.

The CSX comes with a 12-round magazine for improved capacity and a 10-round flush fit magazine for a custom level of concealment.

To give you better concealment and comfort, the CSX includes interchangeable textured backstraps, and a chamfered ejection port for a no-snag draw.

It also has glare-reducing serrations on the slide for enhanced concealability.

To provide enhanced durability and longevity, Smith & Wesson gave the CSX an Armornite finish to protect against damage and corrosion.

To give you improved control and accuracy, this firearm comes with a single-action flat-faced trigger and has an 18-degree grip for a natural point of aim.

The Smith & Wesson CSX 9mm Pistol Micro Compact is an excellent option if you are a left-handed shooter.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#7. Kimber Micro 9 Two-Tone 9mm Pistol

• Barrel Length: 3.15”
• Overall Length: 6.1”
• Weight: 15.6 oz
• Capacity: 6

Gun enthusiasts who want a unique 9mm micro compact will love the Kimber Micro 9 Two-Tone 9mm Pistol.

One of the first things you would love about the Kimber Micro 9 is that it is based on the legendary 1911.

It will turn heads with its beautiful aluminum frame, matte black steel slide, and rosewood grips.

It is more than just looks with the Kimber Micro 9 with its 3.15” stainless steel barrel, aluminum match grade 7-pound trigger pull, and full-length guide rod.

These features will give you the performance you would expect from a 1911, but in a concealable micro compact frame.

A downside to the Kimber Micro 9 is its 6-round capacity, which is plenty for self or home defense, but it has a lower capacity than the other micro compacts on this list.

If you are looking for a micro compact with the look and feel of a 1911, the Kimber Micro 9 Two-Tone 9mm Pistol is perfect for you.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#8. Ruger Max-9 9mm Pistol 12rd 3”

• Barrel Length: 3.2”
• Overall Length: 6”
• Weight: 18.4 oz
• Capacity: 10, 12

Ruger’s Max-9 9mm Pistol 12rd 3” is packed full of features that you may not expect in a micro compact.

Shooters will love its rigged design that features a through-hardened alloy steel slide, a glass-fill nylon grip, a 3.2” alloy steel barrel with a black oxide finish, and a precision-machined fire control chassis.

It features tritium fiber optic day/night sights, a short trigger pull with a clean break, and a medium textured grip to give you enhanced control and tighter shot groups.

You could also equip the Max-9 with a co-witnessed Jpoint or Shield-pattern micro red dot sights for even better target acquisition for faster engagements.

It also features a reversible magazine release for improved ambidextrous functionality.

With its included 12-round and 10-round magazine, you can have an extended grip for better control and comfort or a flush fit for improved concealment.

The Ruger Max-9 9mm Pistol 12rd 3” is an ideal fit if you want an optics-ready micro compact with excellent features.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

Why Should You Buy a Micro 9mm Pistol?

A micro 9mm pistol is an excellent choice for anyone who is looking for a reliable and powerful weapon to carry for self-defense.

Micro compact pistols are easy to conceal and carry, making them ideal for those who want to keep their weapon hidden while still having enough power to naturalize an assailant.

They are also highly accurate, with various features to help increase their effectiveness.

When it comes to self-defense, the micro 9mm pistol provides excellent protection.

Its small size and light weight make it easy to maneuver and draw quickly, which is essential when facing a threat.

The accuracy and power of the 9mm round also make it an ideal choice for self-defense, allowing you to place shots accurately and effectively.

There is also a massive market of 9mm ammunition, which allows you to equip a 9mm micro compact with scenario-specific ammunition.

Final Verdict

Overall, the micro 9mm pistol is an excellent choice for anyone looking for an effective and reliable weapon for concealed carry and self-defense.

Its small size and light weight make it easy to conceal, and its accuracy and power make it a superb choice for those looking for an effective weapon.

Furthermore, its wide selection of ammunition makes it perfect for any scenario, from home defense to concealed carry.

References

Concealed Carry Pistols: The Hot New Double-Stack Micro-Compact 9mms

Self Defense Laws By State

See Also

12 Best 9mm Pistols For Concealed Carry & Home Defense

12 Best Handguns For Beginners

12 Best Subcompact 9MM Pistols

9 Best Handguns For Women

Affiliate Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I have personally vetted. Learn more.

Meat Block

10 lb of Venison 2.5 lb of pork straight pork fat or 10 lb of untrimmed pork butts 1 Bag of Taco Snack Sticks 10.75 oz for 12.5 lb 1 oz of Sure Cure (Included with purchase) 14.1 grams for 12.5 lb Water (2 lb per 25 lb batch of meat) 16 oz of water for a 12.5 lb batch

OPTIONAL Additives 1 Bag of Sure Gel 3 oz for 12.5 lb Encapsulated Citric Acid 2 oz for 12.5 lb

Equipment

Walton’s 50 lb Meat Mixer Walton’s 11 lb Sausage Stuffer Walton’s #12 Meat Grinder

Casing Preparation

We are using 19mm Smoke Collagen Casings, which will fit easily over our 12mm stuffing tube. These casings require no preparation; simply take them out of the package and put them on the stuffing tube.

Process

This meat was already ground once through a 3/8 plate and frozen. We defrosted it and ground it again through a 1/8 plate. The fact that it was still partially frozen sped up the 2nd ground significantly. What would normally be a process of 10 minutes was finished in under 3.

Pork Fat –

If you are adding just pork fat to your meat block, you should add somewhere between 20-25% of the weight of your venison meat in fat. In this case, that meant we added 2.5 lb, and we added that while we were grinding, this allows it to start mixing in with the venison as it grinds. We also made sure the pork was almost frozen to help it grind faster and better.

Pork Butts –

If you are adding pork butts, make sure that they are untrimmed, meaning that they have a good fat cap on them and that the skin is removed from the pork butt. You will be able to tell if the skin is still on by looking for small hair follicles; if you see that, then the skin is still on, and you will need to trim that off while leaving as much fat as possible on the meat.

Meat Mixing

Next, you need to mix the seasoning and cure into your meat. To do this, you can either use a meat mixer or do it by hand. Because this is a product that we are going to cure and smoke, we need to achieve a high level of protein extraction, so doing this with your hands is difficult but can be done. When using a mixer, add the meat to the mixer, then the seasoning and cure, and finally, the water. You will want to mix in both directions until all seasoning and cure have been mixed in and you have good protein extraction. You will know that a good level of protein extraction has been achieved when the meat is sticky and tacky; if you can pull a handful of it apart and it stretches, that is a good sign.

Sausage Stuffing

Next, choose the largest stuffing tube that your casings will fit over and begin stuffing. Stuff until the casings are full and smooth but leave yourself enough room on the end to close with a hog ring.

If you can just faintly see a swirl pattern running down the casing, that means you have stuffed them correctly. If that pattern is obvious, then they are understuffed, which will lead to excessively wrinkled casings and an odd texture.

If you cannot see that pattern at all, then you have overstuffed the casings, and you run a risk of the casings popping when you hang them in the smokehouse.

Note

If you added Encapsulated Citric Acid or other cure accelerators, you need to go directly from stuffing to smoking. If you did not use a cure accelerator of some sort, then after you’ve stuffed everything, the product has to be held in the refrigerator overnight to allow the cure time to work.

Thermal Processing & Smoking

Set up your smoker and hang your sausage on smoke sticks or lay on racks and smoke at: 125F for 1 hour 140F for 1 hour 155F for 2 hours 175F until internal meat temp of 160F

When they have reached 160 internal temperature, remove them from the smoker and put them in an ice bath to bring the heat down and help set the casing.

A water bath is not sufficient for this; the water needs to be ice water or shower them with a fan pointed at the hanging sticks.

Cooling

Lastly, leave them out at room temperature for about an hour before vacuum packing them; this will ensure you don’t get additional moisture in the vacuum bag, which would affect the shelf life of your meats.

Wrap up

Adding pork fat instead of pork butts will give them a more distinct taste and color. The intensity of the difference will depend on the protein you are using; deer works well with pork fat, so the 50/50 mix of venison and untrimmed pork butts will work well, but with something like goose, you really want to find straight pork fat.

Other Notes

Depending on your pH and your Water Activity, your sticks might be shelf-stable, but without a way to test this, you should vacuum pack and refrigerate these, and since these are wild game, they wouldn’t be considered “shelf-stable” technically.

What Is A Snack Stick?

Snack Sticks are meat snacks and semi-dried sausages that are stuffed into smoked collagen casings and then hung in a smokehouse for cooking. Many Snack Sticks will have a pH between 4.5 and 5.2 to give them some shelf stability and the classic tangy flavor.

Shop waltonsinc.com for Bratwurst Seasoning

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Watch WaltonsTV: Wild Game – Venison Snack Sticks

Trout Fishing With Rapala Minnows by Bryce Stupples

My first introduction to the mighty Rapala was through a family friend who has featured in a number of my stories – Chalky (aka Bruce White). He uses nothing but Rapalas and seems to catch more than his fair share of large trout.

Rapalas always seemed a bit ”poncey” and the price was always a bit out of my league, ”imagine if you lost one at $20.00 each,” I often thought!

Over the years I heard more and more references to Rapalas being used to catch large fish, though more often than not these monsters were caught while trolling, and as I don’t get many opportunities to fish this way, they still held little appeal.

One day a colleague at work was pouring over a fishing gear catalogue. As we talked he pointed out how cheaply you could import these items, especially Rapalas, given that our dollar was a lot stronger at the time. Getting over that immediate cost factor had just been achieved and I found myself putting in an order for a variety of types and colours.

After about six weeks the package arrived and I was now armed with a number of 7 cm Rapalas. My selection included floating, sinking and articulated. The colours were rainbow, perch (black and gold) and silver.

My initial excursions saw me catch no more fish than normal. In fact, I would often revert back to the tried and tested Toby or Tassie Devil in order to catch a fish. However, I persisted and explored different ways of using these lures. I soon discovered their worth, and now use them as my number one weapon against trout. Hopefully the following experiences, observations and tips will provide other anglers with some new ideas when next fishing these fantastic “fish catching” lures.

1. Rapala Knot Always use the special Rapala Knot. This knot forms a loop that assists the lure’s distinctive action by allowing it some slack to shimmer like a stricken baitfish when retrieved. An alternative is to use a snap-swivel which does affect the action slightly but in my experience makes changing patterns and types a lot quicker and easier as I tend to change over lures a lot depending on the water conditions.

2. Wear Shorts! When fishing with Rapalas I always wear shorts and boots. The reason being that although I set myself up relatively cheaply they are still pricey to replace. I have stripped down and gone for a few swims to rescue ‘a snagged Rapala. In saying this, however, even though these have twin trebles they don’t seem to get snagged as often as other lure types. My theory is that the plastic lip combined with the nose-down shimmering action glides the lure over most stones and through the weed – submerged trees are a different story!

3. Lure Size Lure size doesn’t seem to matter too much. I have regularly witnessed small trout being taken on very big Rapalas. I prefer to use a size seven as it doesn’t look too big and it provides me with enough weight to be able to cast effectively. Anything smaller and unless you have a tailwind you will be wasting your time trying to cast with it.

4. Casting These lures are difficult to cast. But life is made a good deal easier if you fish with light gear such as a small graphite rod and reel spooled with line no heavier than an 8lb test. Some recommend you use split shot about 30cm up the trace to help with casting and sinking the lure. With practice, I found this unnecessary as it changed the action of the lure and increased the number of snags I was getting.

Hurunui River Monster Trout on Scarborough Reel, 6lb line and Rapala Lure.

5. Colours & Models Rapalas come in a wide variety of colours and styles. Everyone I know who fishes with Rapalas seems to catch fish with each individual having a different preference for a colour and style. For what it is worth the rainbow pattern is universal but I prefer the “black and gold” or ”perch” patterns for fishing southern waters.

For trolling I prefer the articulated models, but for rivers and lakeshore casting I use either a floating or Countdown, once again depending on the type of water I am fishing in. The Countdown is designed to sink at approximately one foot per second then hold a fixed depth while being retrieved.

The floating Rapala will float until retrieved, or it encounters resistance from the current. Recently I purchased some of the new Blue Fox range. These are cross between a Rapala and a Veltec (made by the same people at Rapala) and although I have yet to catch a fish on one, they impressed me with their action and castability.

6. Casting Upstream One of my preferred methods to fish a Rapala is to cast a Countdown upstream in a smaller river or stream in a similar fashion to the way one would cast a dry fly up current. With this method, I try to cast in such a way that the fish turns away from me to take the lure. In other words, make the fish turn towards the opposite bank to which you are standing on.

In the waters of the Oreti River where I predominately fish with Rapalas the fish spook very easily and if they see you will rarely take.

When fishing blind I start at the bottom of a hole or run, and looking directly upstream, cast at 10 o’clock to the far bank or far side of the main current. My next cast goes to 11 o’clock midstream, or mid current, then finally on cast directly upstream to fish the near side.

I then take a couple of steps upstream before repeating the process until I have covered all likely water. It is by this method – with a bit of practice – that I have had the most success and caught all of my big trout over recent years.

The important thing to remember is to wind fast enough with the current to maintain the swimming action of the lure.

The other point to bear in mind is that fish more often than not have taken the lure coming downstream, and therefore even with big fish, the takes are very subtle. So be ready or otherwise you will miss the strike!

7. Floating Downstream Using a floating Rapala and floating it downstream to retrieve up through the middle of a pool or over-hanging grass or willows is another tactic I often employ. This involved my starting at the head of the pool, or above the rapid feed the hole – often standing mid current – and allowing the current to take outline as the Rapala floats on the surface taking the natural course of the river.

When the Rapala is at the bottom of the pool or past the fishy zone you engage the reel and start slowly retrieving. This method fishes the lure right up to the side of the area where fish will be feeding and gives the fish plenty of opportunity to get a good look at the lure. This method allows you to fish a lot of water that you would not be able to access without spooking the fish or tangling with obstructions such as overhanging trees. Indeed how many times have you seen trout cruising underneath willows or lying hard up against the bank where the grass overhangs and wished you could cast to them? Give it a go.

Rapala Fat Rap Shallow Running Bibbed Minnow designed for fishing in shallow water.

8. Across and Down Across and down is the traditional way for spin fishermen to attack the water. I rarely fish with Rapalas in this way, but where a river is wide or is carrying a large volume of water there is often no other way to cover the water. In such water, the likelihood of spooking fish is less so it is, therefore, the tactic to employ.

9. Lake Margins Fishing lake margins and over weed beds gives you the opportunity to utilize the different characteristics of the different Rapala lures. The Countdown is good as it allows you to fish the bottom, or fish through the water at different depths by utilizing the predetermined sinking rate.

One word of caution is to remember that as the water gets shallower the lure will start to hit the bottom so be wary of those submerged snags!

The floating Rapalas are useful to cast over weed beds as they will only go under the water a metre or so. If you feel them catching on the weed stop winding and they will float back to the surface. A jerky retrieve is often useful in these situations as this will keep your lure ”fishing” at all times.

10. Trolling The few times I have trolled with Rapalas I have used the articulated models for no other reason than they look fantastic in the water. Their appearance perfectly replicates the swimming action of a small fish very well.

Friends of mine swear by the rattling models fished on a downrigger but they all report that the Rapala is one of the best lures to use when trolling for trout.

In general the wider and longer the plastic bib on the front of the Rapala the deeper it dives when trolling. This makes it possible, generally speaking, to choose a lure to dive down to the depth that fish are appearing at on your sounder.

Keep in mind that Rapala lures trolled a good distance behind a boat will usually dive and swim at over twice the water depth attainable from the same lure by casting and retrieving. Also when trolling on lakes most fish are caught trolling in: the shallower water near the lake’s margins, close to river mouths, along drop-offs, and cover, rather than out in the middle in the deepest water.

Rapala Shad Rap Deep Runner is an excellent lake trolling trout lure.

11. Releasing Fish A characteristic of Rapalas is that fish take them very well. With the treble hooks, they tend to stay hooked. This often poses problems for me when I look to release a big trout and it is bleeding or the middle treble has hooked the trout in the eye. Therefore when you have caught enough for the table, remove one of the treble hooks or change them over to singles to give yourself the best possible chance of returning fish safely.

So from early scepticism about the Rapala lure, I am now a confirmed believer in their ability to catch fish. Be prepared to experiment with them and the results may surprise you. Of the last ten trout, I have caught on a Rapala I can honestly say that they have averages 6 pounds.

Rapalas do of course have their uses in sea fishing. I have also seen anglers catch salmon on them in the Rakaia and Rangitata Rivers.

Once you get the feel for fishing with Rapalas you will want more than one.

The 1998-99 deer season will probably be remembered for many things. The weather was scorching hot and bone dry throughout most of the season, white oaks were barren in many places where the deer season normally revolves around white oak acorns, and most hunters reported an absent, insignificant or off-schedule rut. Who would have guessed that such a season will also be remembered for a Telfair County buck that might be the best killed in Georgia in 25 years, maybe even a new state record?

Billy Joe Padgett, 23, of Jacksonville, Ga., killed the buck on Thanksgiving morning, Nov. 26. The non-typical rack has 36 scoreable points on what is a very high and wide 8-point frame, but it is the mass that is most striking. The circumference measurements at the base of each beam is in the neighborhood of 10 inches. The smallest of eight circumference measurements is greater than 6 inches.

These facts are leading experienced scorers who have looked at the rack to estimate that the deer, when officially scored, will approach or even surpass the current state record of 240 5/8 non-typical inches, which is the Hatton buck, killed by John L. Hatton Jr. in Monroe County in 1973.

The 60 days that must pass before the rack can be officially scored are slipping away fast, and we’ll know soon whether we have a new state record or not. And in case you are a Week 10 Truck-Buck entrant, here’s the answer to your burning question: Billy Joe is a GON subscriber, and yes, his buck is a Week 10 entrant.

Billy Joe killed the buck on the White Oak Plantation Sportman’s Club, an 8,800-acre tract on the Ocmulgee River in Telfair County that has been under quality deer management since it was established five years ago. Billy Joe’s father, Ernest Padgett, was a founding member of the club and helped develop a cooperative agreement among neighboring clubs that has resulted in quality management on more than 14,000 contiguous acres.

This summer, Ernest and his sons were posting and installing locks on a new 800-acre addition to the White Oak club when they came across some very impressive rubs from the previous season. Needless to say, Ernest and Billy Joe had a good idea where they would start hunting when the season came in.

On Oct. 27, the first Tuesday of gun season, Billy Joe got a look at the buck that was probably responsible for the rubs. Watching the buck walk across a field of young planted pines, Billy Joe thought that the deer must still be in velvet: the rack just seemed too big, heavy and dark. The buck crossed Billy Joe’s entrance path and began running for cover, and Billy Joe got one clear shot at 75 yards. He took it and missed clean.

Billy Joe and his dad began hunting the buck as often as they dared, hoping the pressure would not make the buck leave the area. In early November, Ernest got a look at the buck moving at a brisk walk at 175 yards. He shot and immediately saw dust bloom under the buck’s neck. Once again, not a hair was to be found.

Early in the week of Thanksgiving, Ernest heard a buck chasing a doe in a pine thicket, and a loud, deep, steady grin sounded convincingly like a mature buck. Ernest grunted in response, but the deer never appeared.

On Thanksgiving morning, Ernest would not be hunting, so he told his son how to get to the stand where he had heard the grunting buck.

Daylight had barely arrived when Billy Joe finished a short series on his grunt call and looked up to see the huge buck they had been hunting. At 50 yards, Billy Joe was given a broadside shot. When he fired, the buck raised its tail and bolted, and Billy Joe, like any of us would have been, was unable to sit still for a second. He scaled quickly down from the stand, leaped over the last few steps and ran to where the buck had been standing. Forty yards from that spot, Billy Joe began to breathe again when he located the first blood.

Moments later, he topped a small rise and found himself looking at the buck, which was lying on the ground, head up, watching him. The deer began to rise, and Billy Joe snapped of a shot at its neck. As the buck disappeared at a run into planted pines, he fired a third time, then ran after it.

Billy Joe lost sight of the buck right away, but ahead he could see pine sapling swaying in the buck’s wake, and he followed at a sprint. It was not far before he saw the buck again, now its massive rack of antlers had been caught up in a pine sapling. As it struggled to run, Billy Joe charged up and grabbed the left beam in his hand. With the rifle in the other hand, he fired point-blank into the buck’s chest, then turned loose just as the buck freed itself and disappeared again.

Once again, Billy Joe was running after it, but the chase ended only a few yards farther on when the buck piled up, and a fifth and final shot was placed. Fifteen minutes passed between the first and the last shot. Four of the shots had connected.

The rack must dry for a minimum of 60 days before it can be scored by an official Boone & Crockett measurer. Because the scoring of this unusual rack will be difficult and time consuming, and because the final score will be highly anticipated, no green score will be taken, and coming up with an eyeball estimate for a rack like this one is guesswork at best.

Just last season, Blake Voltz, of Columbus, came within 9 inches of matching the Hatton Buck with his Musgoee County non-typical buck that scored 231 2/8 inches. Will Billy Joe’s buck fall short as well or will the state record whitetail have a new name by February?

Editor’s Note: Kim Adams of the White Oak Sportsman’s Club contributed to this report.

The number one question people ask us at outdoor shows and in the field is “how do you set up your decoys” or “why did you set your goose decoys up this way”. In fact I’d say it’s the number one reason people who book a guided goose or duck hunt with Maxxed Out Guides want to learn about while they’re in the field.

Unfortunately there isn’t one easy answer. Some hunters may say they set up there spread one particular way every time. You’ll hear hunters talk about and X, C, J spread which means their decoys are set to loosely resemble one of those letters. I strongly recommend not following that line of thinking. There are many times driving around that I’ll see decoy spreads that make a definitive, C, J or X in the field.

This causes two problems for you. First birds don’t naturally sit in fields in formations that resemble letters. Second birds see these unnatural looking spreads up and down the flyway. So not only are they unnatural geese get trained and accustomed to seeing them. This is typically not a combination for success.

However from my experience there is no one decoy spread that each and every day in the field. Some days you need more decoys. Some days you need fewer. There are days where your blinds will need to be at the front of your decoy spread and there are some days where they will need to be at the back.

There are many variables to this equation but the main variable, as it is with any hunt, is the weather. Birds simply look for different things in different weather conditions. The only thing that can tell you how to react to weather is experience and time in the field.

Are there days that a ‘letter shaped” spread will kill geese? Absolutely! However what you typically find on those types of days is most any style spread will kill birds.

So while there isn’t one “go to” spread there are a few things that can help you as you learn how to set your decoys.

First is the kill hole. You always want to try and manipulate the birds to attempt land or finish where you want them. Usually the kill hole is a spot in front of everyone that will create safe shooting lanes and opportunity for everyone to shoot. Typically we like to set up with the wind at our backs so the birds are finishing straight at us. However things like where the roost is in relation to the field, sun, wind and avaialble cover to hide your layout blinds doesn’t always make that possible. Hunting a strong cross wind is one of the more challenging scenarios you’ll run into when establishing the kill hole and is something that comes with experience. Either way though we typically like to give the birds lot of space so they have plenty of area to finish as they come into the spread. Sometimes you have to adjust things as the birds are finishing differently than you anticipated they would.

The second is never have your hide (where you put your layouts) dictated by your decoys. Your decoys should always be dictated by your hide. It does not matter how many decoys you have or realistic they are, if birds see your hide as they approach you are in for a long day in the field, because remember, these birds did not wake up this morning and head out to feed with the intention of giving you a good hunt. They want to live and if they see things out of the ordinary…they’re gone! So once you find your field and see what type of wind and sun your going to be dealing with the next day, your first priority should be to determine where the best place for your hide is, based on the information you have.

Once you have an idea of where your hide is, then you can start to strategize on how to set our decoys and where to position the kill hole.

Lastly, while I can’t give one shape that always works, look at your decoys when you’ve set them all. Remember these are wild animals your hunting. Does your spread look natural? Does it have a definitive edge (it shouldn’t)? Don’t be afraid to put smaller groups just outside of the main mass of decoys. You’ll frequently see a main mass of birds in a field and then smaller groups sprinkled around it. Create some randomness to your spread and don’t be afraid to try something new.

Happy Hunting!

Graham Greseth

Maxxed Out Guides Owner

www.GeeseFearUs.com