I recently completed a project that I began last Fall.

On nature walks in the park in the Fall, I am frequently asked about the hickory nuts we find: “Are they edible”? The short answer is yes. The question, however, deserves a fuller response.

To say that something is “edible” is, in a sense, simply to say that it is safe to eat; it is not poisonous and will not make the eater sick. Hickory nuts are definitely edible in this sense. This is only the first consideration, though, for someone who is actually considering eating something found in its natural state. Not everything edible is something that one wants to consume. Are the hickory nuts of Eliza Howell Park ones that we are likely to find pleasant to eat?

To the best of my knowledge, there are three species of hickory nut trees in Eliza Howell: Bitternut Hickory, Shagbark Hickory, Pignut Hickory. The trees are not numerous, but in some years all three produce bumper crops and the nuts are easy to find on the ground. Bitternut appears to be the most common of the hickories in the park.

This picture depicts each Eliza Howell hickory species in the progression from green nut to ripening nut to the nut after the outer hull is removed.

The first clue to tastiness might be what our ancestors thought when the species got their common names. “Bitter” clearly suggests unpleasant. And identifying something as “pig feed” is not normally a recommendation for human consumption. In the past, Pignut Hickory nuts were commonly part of the annual diet of hogs.

The other species, on the other hand, was identified by its bark: the trunk has large strips of peeling bark. Calling attention to the bark helps to provide identification if one wants to locate a tree for purposes of collecting nuts. Shagbark is a hickory that nearly everyone agrees is tasty as well as edible.

I have eaten Shagbark Hickory nuts many times. We collected them every Fall for Winter eating when I was young. Having no memory of ever eating Bitternut or Pignut, I browsed the reports and descriptions of others. There appears to be general agreement that Bitternut nuts are not tasty, but there is less agreement on Pignut. Most, but not all, describe it as unpleasant to eat.

I decided to do a taste test. I harvested a few nuts of each species in the Fall and this February I ate some of each.

The Shagbark was enjoyable, as remembered.

I found little difference between Bitternut and Pignut. My assessment of these two: On the one hand, if I were hungry, they would serve as an acceptable source of nutrition; on the other hand, I do not intend to bring them home to eat. I am perfectly pleased to let wildlife have them (and I do see from the evidence in the snow that squirrels have, in fact, been using them for Winter food this year).

There is an old Roman (Latin) saying: “De gustibus non est disputandum.” We should not dispute matters of taste. What one person likes another might not – and that does not make either wrong. My opinion on the taste of the different hickory nuts found in Eliza Howell Park is just one person’s opinion. But this coming Fall, when asked if the hickory nuts we step on are edible, I can at least speak as one who has tasted them.

Bullwinkle Disease in Deer

The term “Bullwinkle disease” sounds more like a joke about someone than an actual ailment. As it turns out, Bullwinkle disease in deer is a thing. It’s a true-to-life disease that can impact deer. Although quite rare, it seems white-tailed deer can get an infection that causes their muzzle to swell. In turn, their face looks more like the cartoon moose Bullwinkle than that of a normal, healthy whitetail.

Wildlife vets know that the head swelling is caused by a long-term bacterial infection in soft tissues of the afflicted deer’s face. However, the most fascinating part of Bullwinkle disease is that no one knows how deer get it. Or even where the bacteria comes from.

Bullwinkle Deer

Source: “The Southeastern Cooperative Wildlife Disease Study (SCWDS) has been studying the parasites and diseases of white-tailed deer for more than 56 years. With so much time and effort invested in this area, one would think that few surprises would be left, but that doesn’t ever seem to be the case. Since 2005, we have received samples from ten deer with oddly deformed muzzles, as well as reports of several other affected deer. The swollen muzzles give them a strange appearance and prompted someone to call them “Bullwinkle deer,” based on their resemblance to the 1960’s cartoon character.

Although the cases reported to us are uncommon, they occur over a wide geographic area. In fact, affected white-tailed deer have been submitted to SCWDS from as far north as Michigan and as far south as Alabama. Furthermore, the condition also has been confirmed in a mule deer buck in Idaho.

Bullwinkle Disease in Deer & Head Swelling

The swollen faces are the result of chronic inflammation in the soft tissues of the muzzle. Deer with lumpy jaw can also have swollen jaws, but not to the same extent. The inflammation also is seen in connective tissues in the oral cavity, but it is much more severe on the nose and upper lip. All of the deer examined have had similar colonies of bacteria within the inflammatory infiltrates. Attempts to culture the bacteria have been frustrating. This is possibly due to chronicity of lesions, freezing and storage of samples prior to submission. Alternatively, it may be due to excessive growth of secondary bacterial contaminants.

Staining characteristics and DNA sequencing of the bacterial colonies observed suggest they differ from other organisms known to cause problems in deer. Investigations continue into the bacteria’s potential role in the development of this condition.

So far, all of the reported cases have been in hunter-killed deer or deer observed in the wild. Some deer have been thin, but there have been no reports of mortality directly attributed to this disease. One landowner reported having seen the same affected deer at a backyard feeder for nearly two years. Many of the deer observed or killed have been known to visit feed sites. However, the association with feeding is anecdotal. At this time, we do not know the factors that may predispose a deer to develop this unusual condition.

The lesions are certainly dramatic, but this disease does not appear to have any negative consequences for deer populations. Cases are relatively infrequent and are not clustered. It is possible that this problem has always occurred in deer, but at a very low prevalence. However, it has become very easy for photographs to be widely circulated among hunters and biologists in a very short period of time. We can attribute that to hunters, trail cameras and the internet.

This rapid sharing of information may have increased the detection and submission of rare and unusual cases, such as the Bullwinkle disease in deer we see here. Prepared by Kevin Keel, University of California-Davis”

If you’re hanging a deer in warm weather, you’ll want to do it as soon as possible. The ideal temperature for hanging a deer is between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature is any warmer than that, you risk the meat spoiling. The length of time you’ll need to hang the deer will depend on how warm it is. You’ll generally want to hang the deer for at least 24 hours, but in very warm weather, you may need to hang it for 48 hours or more.

If you’re processing your deer in warm weather, you’ll need extra care to prevent the meat from spoiling. Here are some guidelines for how long to hang your deer in warm weather:

If the temperature is above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, you should only hang the deer for one to two days. You can hang the deer for three to four days if the temperature is between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

And if the temperature is below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, you can hang the deer for up to seven days. Remember, it’s always better to err on the side of caution when hanging your deer. If you’re not sure how long to hang it, it’s better to hang it for a shorter period of time rather than risk the meat spoiling.

Ask a Deer Processor: How long should you hang your deer?

How long can a deer hang in 60-degree weather

Assuming you are referring to the temperature of the air and not the ground, deer can hang in 60-degree weather for an indefinite amount of time.

The reason being, is that as long as the internal organs remain cool, the deer will not begin to rot. The rigor mortis, in which the muscles stiffen after death, will also be delayed in cooler temperatures. So, if you are hoping to age your deer meat, 60 degrees is the ideal temperature.

Can you let a deer hang in warm weather?

It’s not recommended to let a deer hang in warm weather. The warmer the temperature, the quicker the deer will spoil. If temperatures are above freezing, the deer should be refrigerated or frozen as soon as possible. If it’s not possible to do either of those things, then you can let the deer hang for a day or two, but any longer than that is not recommended.

How long will a deer last in 50 degree weather?

If you’re asking how long a deer will survive in 50 degree weather, the answer is that it depends on the deer. In general, deer can withstand temperatures as low as -20 degrees Fahrenheit, but they will start to feel uncomfortable when the temperature goes above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If the weather is particularly hot or humid, the deer will start to suffer from heat stress, which can lead to death.

How long can you let a deer hang?

When it comes to deer, there are a few different schools of thought on how long is too long to let a deer hang. Some people believe that as long as the deer is properly taken care of, there is no set time limit. Others believe that waiting too long to process a deer can result in the meat becoming tough and unpalatable. So, how long can you let a deer hang? Ideally, deer should be processed as soon as possible after being harvested. This means that the deer should be gutted, skinned, and deboned as soon as possible after being killed. If you are unable to process the deer right away, it is important to take steps to ensure that the meat stays cool and does not spoil. If you are unable to process the deer immediately, it is best to hang the deer in a cool, shaded area. The temperature should be below 40 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent the growth of bacteria. If the temperature is above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, the deer should be processed as soon as possible. It is also important to keep the deer away from predators, insects, and other animals. If the deer is hanging in an area where there are other animals present, it is important to check on the deer regularly to make sure that the meat has not been contaminated. In general, it is best to process a deer within 24 hours of harvesting it.

Is it OK to hang a deer in 60 degree weather?

The quick answer is yes, it is perfectly fine to hang a deer in 60 degree weather. In fact, this is actually an ideal temperature for hanging and aging venison. If the temperature is too cold, the meat can freeze and if it is too warm, the meat can start to spoil. When hanging a deer, the animal should be gutted as soon as possible after being killed. The intestines can release bacteria into the meat which can cause it to spoil. The deer should then be hung by the hind legs from a beam or other sturdy structure. If the temperature is too cold, the meat can freeze and if it is too warm, the meat can start to spoil. The ideal temperature for hanging and aging venison is between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. However, 60 degrees is still within the acceptable range. If the temperature is consistently above 60 degrees, you may want to consider placing the deer in a cooler or refrigerator to prevent the meat from spoiling.

Conclusion

If you’re planning on hanging a deer in warm weather, you’ll want to take some extra precautions to make sure that the meat doesn’t spoil. First, you’ll want to choose a cool, shady spot to hang the deer. If possible, hang the deer in a breezy spot so that the air can circulate around the meat and help keep it cool. Secondly, you’ll want to make sure that the deer is completely gutted before you hang it. If the intestines are left in, they can quickly start to rot and contaminate the meat. Finally, you’ll want to check the temperature of the meat regularly. If it starts to get too warm, you can either move the deer to a cooler spot or take it down and refrigerate it.

Until recently conventional wisdom held that using a 20-gauge shotgun for deer hunting was a bad idea. The 20 gauge was something ladies and kids used only for its reduced recoil, and the Foster-style slug was the only option. The 20-gauge Foster slug has a ballistic coefficient of around .060, which is about as low as a conical lead projectile can get. Even though it leaves the shotgun with more than 1,600 ft.-lbs. of energy, by the time the slug passes the 100-yard mark it is down to about 625 ft.-lbs. And it drops like a brick—not exactly the performance of deer-hunting legends.

Things have changed, though, and it could be argued that there are some very good reasons to use a 20-gauge slug gun for deer hunting. I put that theory to the test at Graystone Castle in Texas with my friend Joe Coogan and the rest of the “Benelli On Assignment” television crew. When I had a good, 100-yard broadside shot at a buck with tall, almost straight-up antlers, I eased the Benelli M2 shotgun into position. I sent a 5/8-ounce piece of technology through its ribs. If you saw the show, you might remember that you can actually see the slug flying though the air and hitting the deer. It is pretty dramatic footage.

The Federal 20-gauge shotshell was loaded with the Barnes Tipped Expander slug. Federal lists the muzzle velocity at an impressive 1,900 fps from a 30-inch test barrel. From my Benelli’s shorter, 24-inch barrel, it comes surprisingly close with 1,809 fps at the muzzle. That means the slug hit that buck with 1,337 ft.-lbs. of energy, which is more than some 20-gauge Foster slugs have at the muzzle, and it’s about double the energy the Foster carries at 100 yards The buck simply toppled over.

Although the old Foster slugs often struggled for “minute of backstop” accuracy past 50 yards, when I was sighting in, this Benelli M2, which had a rifled barrel, was shooting groups with the Federal ammunition that had some of the rifle guys looking twice. In fact, this setup has the accuracy and external ballistic performance to make it a 200-yard deer gun. Sighted 2 inches high at 100 yards, it strikes 9 inches low at 200 yards and still has 1,000 ft.-lbs. of energy. That kind of performance was unheard of from a 20-gauge slug just a few short years ago. It has all trickled down from the big dog, the 12 gauge, and has completely changed the rules about shooting 20-gauge slug guns for deer.

Many of the newest slugs use polymer tips for higher ballistic coefficients. They are streamlined, lighter in weight, have a higher velocity than the 20-gauge slugs of old and, as a result, mean that the “Twenty-Bore” is no longer a deer hunting compromise. Today’s 20-gauge slug is an efficient and powerful deer hunting tool. Let’s take a look at a few of the recent innovations in 20-gauge slug ammunition from the big-name companies.

I tested the four slugs for terminal performance in both water and Perma-Gel at close range. The slugs impacted with nearly their full muzzle velocity. Both of those testing mediums are a little tougher than the standard ballistic gelatin, yet somewhat softer than big game with its bones and other variables. Expanded diameter was measured twice, 90 degrees to each other, and then averaged.

Numerous subgenres enrich the fantastic world of guns. Sniper rifles, assault rifles, and other types of sporting weapons fall under this category. Of course, everyone loves a good sniper rifle, so we’ve decided to spend today hunting down the most cutting-edge ones available.

What is a sniper rifle?

Most people, or at least the majority of them, believe they know exactly what a sniper rifle is. A scope does not instantly transform a firearm into a sniper rifle. Naturally, accuracy is a vital factor, but the gun must be capable and effective in tactical situations. Many very accurate guns are made solely for competition and wouldn’t hold up well in a nation that has recently experienced civil war.

These requirements frequently call for the gun to be portable or simple to handle. It should have a scope, which in the present day means that it should work with contemporary night vision equipment. Effective range is crucial, as is accuracy.

Sniper rifles should have no trouble reaching out and touching a target. At the very least, a full-powered rifle cartridge is needed for this. To enhance range and counter challenges from contemporary armor, the majority of modern sniper rifles are striving for larger, more powerful ammunition.

So what are the top sniper rifles available today?

Listed below are the top 15 sniper rifles that are employed in various vital operations. It includes a few recently approved guns that are just now becoming online. There are a few sniper rifles in it that are not widely known yet but fill an interesting need. It excludes pre-production prototypes as well as outdated, no-longer-in-use sniper rifles.

These are the current top 15 sniper rifles in the world :

McMillan TAC-50, United States

Produced by McMillan Brothers Rifles, the McMillan TAC-50 is a long-range anti-material and sniper rifle. The words “tactical” and “.50 BMG” (12.7×99 mm) are used to describe it. The 1980s saw the creation of the TAC-50. This weapon is based on earlier creations from the same manufacturer. However, the Canadian Armed Forces only began using this sniper rifle in 2000.

Elite military and law enforcement units from several nations utilize this firearm. Canada, France, Georgia, Israel, Jordan, the Philippines, South Africa, Turkey, and the United States are among the countries that employ the McMillan TAC-50. It is known as the C15 Long Range Sniper Weapon in Canadian service. The TAC-50, also known as the Mk.15, is used by U.S. Navy SEALs.

It is possible to utilize the McMillan TAC-50 as a long-range anti-material weapon. This weapon has the ability to destroy vital enemy assets, including trucks, radar systems, parked aircraft, and other sensitive equipment at a distance. Additionally, it can be used to remotely destroy explosive ordnance.

Another application for the TAC-50 is a long-range sniper rifle. At standoff range, it can neutralize opposing snipers. Due to the rifle’s powerful ammunition’s ability to pierce through brick and concrete, it can also be utilized to strike enemy soldiers who are concealed behind cover and walls.

Barrett M82A1, United States

The Barrett Firearms Manufacturing firm created and developed the semi-automatic anti-material rifle known as the Barrett M82. Early in the 1980s, work on this potent anti-material gun started. By 1982, operational versions were created; consequently, M82. It is important to note that the M82 is not a U.S. military designation but rather a business designation. In 1989, the business successfully sold 100 weapons to the Swedish Armed Forces.

The US Marine Corps acquired about 125 of these rifles in 1990-1991. Orders from the U.S. Army and Air Force soon followed. Nearly 60 nations currently utilize this anti-material rifle in their armed forces and law enforcement. This anti-material rifle is employed as a long-range anti-personnel sniper weapon in a number of nations.

This weapon was meant to be used at a distance to destroy sensitive enemy equipment, such as parked aircraft, radar systems, vehicles, and other significant assets. It is used to destroy explosive ordnance remotely. The Barrett M82 is a long-range sniper rifle, even though it was initially intended to be an anti-material rifle.

Accuracy International AS50, United Kingdom

This firearm is the British gunmaker accuracy global’s 50 BMG anti-material precision rifle, the Accuracy International AS50. It has a muzzle velocity of 800 to 900 m/s, can engage with targets at a distance of 1,800 m, and is fed by 5 or 10 spherical detachable field journals.

Users can engage with targets at extremely great distances with high accuracy utilizing explosive or incendiary bullets thanks to the rifle’s 1.5 moa accuracy and the as50. As opposed to the aw50 bolt action rifle, the as50 has a gas-operated semi-automatic motion with a muzzle brake, which results in reduced recoil and quicker target acquisition. The weapon is lightweight, ergonomic, and incredibly portable. Without using any tools, it can be disassembled in under three minutes and fixed.

Accuracy International AWM, United Kingdom

The above-shown British sniper rifle is called the Arctic Warfare Magnum (AWM) which is the creation of the business Accuracy International. It is a more potent variation of the Arctic Warfare sniper rifle that is made to work with more potent and substantial Magnum-type rounds. The designation’s use of the word “Magnum” refers to the Magnum chambering. This weapon comes in two major variations; each chambered for the.300 Winchester Magnum and.338 Lapua Magnum rounds.

In 1996, this weapon was adopted. A .300 Winchester Magnum-caliber variant is in use with the Czech Republic, Germany (known as the G22 regionally), and a few other nations. At least 14 nations, including Ireland, Israel, Italy, Malaysia, the Netherlands, Norway, South Korea, and the United Kingdom, have adopted a different version that is chambered for the.338 Lapua Magnum. This sniper weapon was used in battles in Afghanistan and Iraq.

It is a sniper rifle with a bolt mechanism. The Arctic Warfare Magnum is essentially the same as the original Arctic Warfare sniper rifle, with the addition of a longer bolt to accommodate the heavier and more potent Magnum-type ammunition. This weapon features a 660 mm (26″) stainless steel barrel. It is fueled by removable 5-round magazines.

Dragunov SVD, Soviet Union

The SVD, the premier sniper rifle of the Soviet Union and its allies, must be included on any list of the best sniper rifles. The oldest rifle on this list, it was created by Yevgeny Dragunov in the late 1950s and entered service in 1963.

Although the SVD’s controls resemble those of an AK-47/74, it is not a derivative of the A.K. Similar to the A.K.; however, the SVD has been created by numerous nations in a variety of forms, making it challenging to keep track of them all, let alone summarise the platform in a little piece like this. Yet we’ll give it a shot.

The cartridge the SVD employs is the 7.6254 Rimmed, which isn’t well known by most American shooters and hunters but has achieved legendary status among military and sniper nerds due to its ranking as one of the top two or three most lethal sniper cartridges in history and deserving of the top spot, in some people’s opinions. The second-oldest cartridge still in use by the military is this one.

M24, United States

The M24 SWS (Sniper Weapon System), which is based on the Remington Model 700 rifle, is the main sniper rifle used by the U.S. Army. It was initially deployed in 1988 after being designed in the 1980s to replace the Springfield Armory M21. The M24 was essentially the first firearm created specifically for sniping by the Army.

It is classified as a “weapon system” as opposed to just a weapon because it comes with a removable telescopic sight and a number of other equipment and accessories in a single box. Additionally, the U.S. Air Force uses it.

The M24 is a bolt action rifle that can contain either 5 or 10 rounds in its detachable box magazine, depending on the variant. Either a Leupold Mk 4 LR/T M3 1040 mm fixed power scope or a Leupold Ultra M3A 1042 mm fixed power can be tapped into it. Additionally, iron sights are installed as a backup for the scope.

Sako TRG 42, Finland

The SAKO TRG 42 is a long-range sniper rifle made in Finland. One of the best sniper rifles in the entire world, in fact. It is a production-level upgrade of the prior SAKO TRG 41. A redesigned stock design is one of the TRG 42’s advantages over the TRG 41. Additionally, this weapon is capable of firing cartridges up to 95 mm in length, which are more potent.

The preceding TRG 41 was superseded in production in 1999 by the SAKO TGR 42. At least 14 nations from around the world, including the Finnish Defense Forces, use this sniper rifle in combat. Army troops and special forces are the principal users. There are also some users in law enforcement.

CheyTac M200 Intervention, United States

The longest-range sniper rifle in the world is the CheyTac M200 Intervention. It has an amazing two 122 m range and holds the world record for the best group of three bullets. This weapon has an 1830 m effective range. One of the best sniper rifles ever made is the Intervention. But for some reason, the military ignores this.

Why aren’t more of these weapons being produced if they are so good? Only a few elite groups, like the British SAS, Polish GROM, Italian, Singaporean, and Turkish special forces, employ the Intervention rifle. According to certain publications, this weapon is also used by the U.S. Navy SEALs. Although it performs well, this weapon is not very well known. The CheyTac M200 Intervention’s extreme range may not be necessary for most tactical circumstances, which is maybe the key factor.

Desert Tech SRS A2, United States

The small Desert Tech SRS A2 offers a lot of adaptabilities. Depending on the needs of the shooter, it is a switch-barrel platform that can accommodate both short- and long-action cartridges. Its modular construction makes it simple to adapt the gun to different needs.

Although it isn’t as popular as some of the other sniper rifles on this list, many militaries throughout the world use it, and both domestic and foreign law enforcement agencies have adopted it.

The following are some of the rifle’s highlights:

• Intelligent design for a bullpup’s body
• Easily interchangeable barrels and cartridges
• Superb accuracy and a smooth trigger, especially for a bullpup.

Some may find the last point to be the most important. The Desert Tech SRS A2 is an excellent choice for target shooters who shoot for fun. The SRS can be customized for long-range shooting, predator control, and suburban hunting using subsonic ammunition or general hunting, provided the shooter is willing to put up with the rifle’s weight.

Barrett MRAD, United States

Both the U.S. Army and Marine Corps had great success with the Barrett MRAD. The SOCOM Precision Sniper Rifle program was the original inspiration for the MRAD or Multi-role Adaptive Design. Sniper rifles are Barretts’ bread and butter; therefore, the company has always been game to try new things in terms of design and functionality.

The MRAD has many impressive features, but its ability to quickly change calibers is what really sets it apart. Changing calibers requires the removal of two Torx screws, a new bolt face, and perhaps a new magazine. Every barrel features a bolt face that is factory headspaced, eliminating a significant issue with quick caliber changes.

Steyr SSG 69, Austria

The Austrian sniper rifle was known as the Steyr Scharfschutzengewehr 69 (or SSG 69 for short). Outwardly, it looks like a hunting rifle, although it was actually developed to be a military and police weapon. The Austrian Army has been hunting for a cutting-edge sniper rifle since the 1960s.

The Austrian Army officially accepted the Steyr-designed rifle as its regular sniper weapon in 1969, hence the name. After Steyr-Daimler-Puch was divided, the firearms division became a separate entity. This sniper rifle was manufactured by Steyr Mannlicher from 1987 to 1989.

At some point, this weapon became famous for its remarkable accuracy and was adopted by a number of governments from all over the world. The SSG 69 is widely regarded as one of the best sniper rifles available today. Argentina, Chile, Greece, India, Indonesia, Ireland, Jordan, Netherlands, Pakistan, Peru, Saudi Arabia, and Turkey are some of the export-operating countries in the world.

US BORTAC border patrol agents also utilize this sniper weapon. Many military engagements and wars were fought using this weapon. There were no updates to the SSG 69 in almost 40 years of production. Only in 2015 did they stop making it. The SSG 08, a modern sniper rifle, eventually replaced it.

Knight’s SR-25, United States

Knight’s Armory is a legendary manufacturer that has supplied some of our finest soldiers with cutting-edge firearms. Their rail designs are used by nearly all military systems, and they have supplied Special Operations personnel with weapons and suppressors for years. The SR-25 was a major improvement upon the AR-10 platform.

The Stoner Rifle, a 7.62 NATO AR, was developed by Eugene Stoner in collaboration with Knight’s Armory. Since then, some of the world’s finest troops have relied on this gas-operated, semi-automatic, direct-impact weapon. The SR-25 was one of the first semi-automatic sniper rifles to prove its worth during a time when the bolt action sniper rifle was king.

The SR-25 was updated to reflect new developments in warfare. When adopted by the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps, it was given the designation “Mk11” by SOCOM. The Mk11 saw active duty with multiple sniper units until 2017 and showed its mettle in the War on Terror.

M40, United States

The US Marine Corps uses the M40 rifle, a bolt-action sniper weapon. The M40, M40A1, M40A3, and M40A5 are its four variations. In 1966, the M40 was first released. The A1 model transition was finished in the 1970s, the A3 model in the 2000s, and the A5 model in 2009.

At Marine Corps Base Quantico, USMC armorers modify Remington Model 700 bolt-action rifles to create the M40s, which are then assembled using parts from a variety of sources. As A1s rotate into the armory for maintenance and repair, they are upgraded to A3s and A5s while new M40A5s are being constructed.

Numerous telescopic sight variations and smaller user modifications have been made to the guns. The M40A5 has a threaded barrel that can be used with a sound suppressor or similar muzzle device and a detachable magazine. The first M40 was a factory-made, one-piece wooden stock, military-type-classified variant of the Remington 700.

B&T USA 300SPR ProFN SCAR Mk 20 SSR, Belgium

The SCAR family of rifles from F.N. has undergone various modifications to provide special operation soldiers with a platform that can do it all. The civilian version of the M.K. 20 SSR is known as the SCAR 20S. The M.K. 20 SSR, or sniper support weapon, is a semi-automatic, short-stroke gas piston rifle that uses the 7.62 NATO cartridge, which is America’s preferred round. The 6.5 Creedmoor is another alternative for shooters in the general public.

Even though F.N.’s SCAR series was already quite accurate, they went above and above with the SSR to make sure it offered top-tier accuracy for a semi-auto rifle. The full-length monolithic upper receiver of the 20S model SCAR enables snipers to add a variety of lenses. This covers optical systems for both day and night, laser aiming tools, and more.

Although the M.K. 20 SSR doesn’t have the greatest range, it does have accurate, quick-fire capabilities for close-to-moderate range precision. Fortunately, F.N. produced a civilian version of the weapon that is identical to the military version.

Sig SSG 3000, Germany

This sniper rifle is the SIG Scharfschutzengewehr 3000, also known as SSG 3000. Despite having the appearance of a hunting rifle, this weapon is designed for use in conflict. This sniper rifle was created specifically for use by the military and police enforcement. Germany was the location of this sniper rifle’s manufacturing.

In both Europe and the U.S., law enforcement agencies frequently employ the SSG 3000. Numerous special forces groups and military organizations from around the world also use it. There is no longer a supply of the SSG 3000 sniper rifle.

The SSG 3000 is a bolt-action gun that can fire 7.62×51 mm (.308 Winchester) NATO bullets. The barrel length for this sniper rifle is either 457 mm (18″) or 597 mm (23.5″). A new stock caused the SSG 3000’s appearance to vary over the course of manufacture.

The stock has a comparable design, despite some little modifications in the upgraded model. The sniper weapon in question was built to survive rigorous use. This weapon gained notoriety for its superior quality, longevity, and accuracy.

It was intended for the SSG 3000 to be a modular weapon. In a few minutes, the barrel can be quickly changed. This sniper rifle may be quickly changed to fire the .260 Remington cartridge using the SIG conversion kit. Although loaded at higher pressures, the.260 Remington is based on the.308 Winchester cartridge.

Any bass angler will likely tell you that topwater fishing provides some of the most exciting bass bites to behold. There is nothing like the visual action of an epic topwater blow up, after all it’s one of the only forms of bass fishing where you actually get to see a bass attack your lure.

Which is why most anglers can’t wait for early dawn or dusk hours, and the warm temperatures of spring and early summer, to break out topwater lures and start walking, popping, and buzzing to drive bass crazy. But the truth is, while topwater lures are traditionally best during late spring and early summer, they can be used in most seasons and varying water temperatures and still catch fish.

1. Rebel Pop-R
2. Whopper Plopper
3. Livetarget Hollow Body Frog

Top water lures come in all shapes and sizes, and in most cases float. The bulk of them are made of hard plastic and are equipped with treble hooks. Treble hooks help increase your chances of having a fish get and stay hooked when they strike, since bass can often miss a topwater lure, or barely hit it. This is especially true for the fast moving models.

They’re not all made from hard plastic however, some are made of solid robber, soft hollow plastic, metal, or a combination. A buzzbait for instance is made up of a metal wire, metal/plastic propellor, and a rubber skirt. It’s also one of the few topwater lures that do not float.

When selecting a topwater bait, you should start with fast moving lures and reduce the speed by methodically switching to slower moving ones if your not getting strikes. This is how you find out how aggressive the bass are that day. Sometimes they will chase almost anything, and other times will only go after a very easy target.

Here are five of the best topwater lures that you should be using:

1. Popper Lures

Poppers are floating lures with a cupped mouth, meaning the front of the lure has an indented bowl shape. In the mouth is where the line attaches, and where all the action the lure creates comes from. This is one of, if not the slowest moving topwater lures.

When fishing a topwater popper, you simply cast the lure out and let it float. You then jerk your rod pulling the lure and causing the mouth to plow through the surface of the water. As it’s being pulled it makes a “pop” as water bubbles up over it. Some are designed with bigger mouths for a slower but bigger “chugging” action, while others have smaller mouths and made for working a little faster with smaller pops.

For more info visit the Topwater Poppers page

2. Walk The Dog Lures

These floating topwaters are long and skinny, usually equipped with a pair of treble hooks. Most models are torpedo shaped. Because of their shape they are often categorized as stickbaits, but since their walking action is so unique they have their own category.

They are called “walk the dog” lures because you have to “walk” them across the surface. The walk-the-dog action is created by jerking the rod tip repetitively with your wrist, causing the lure to zigzag from side to side. The motion creates disturbance on the surface and mimics an injured baitfish. It’s one of the best topwater lures because you have a lot of control in the action you want to give off.

For more info visit the Walk The Dog Lures page

3. Frog Lures

Hollow body frogs might be the most weedless lure there is. They have a soft plastic body that is designed to collapse and expose the hook as bass bite down on them. The lure floats and the hooks face upright, leaving very little chances for getting hung up.

This is a great advantage in bass fishing because you can cast in areas you could never with other lures. Lily pads and other floating vegetation are the ideal places to fish topwater frogs. Bass hide out under these types of vegetation as they provide a great source of oxygenated water, shade, cover, and food. So dragging frogs across the tops of them entice the bass below.

For more info visit the Topwater Frogs page

4. Buzzbaits

Buzzbaits are the fastest moving topwater lure there is, so if your looking to cover a lot of water quickly they are your best bet. They come equipped with a propellor designed to make the bait travel across the waters surface while disrupting it and causing a ton of commotion. As the blades of the prop spin and hit the water surface, they create a splashing and rippling that really appeal to bass.

Buzzbaits are great for fishing around cover like along weeds and timber. They’re somewhat weedless since the hook faces upright as it travels through the water so you can cast in a lot of areas other topwaters can’t get to.

For more info visit the Buzzbaits page

5. Prop Baits

These torpedo shaped floaters do all the work for you as you reel them in. They come equipped with one or more propellors that spin as the lure is retrieved. As the propellor spins it disturbs the surface and creates a noise that bass can hear and feel.

They are far from weedless so working them around the edges of cover is best. Typically you would only use these on a calm day when the surface is still. The props are smaller than the ones on a buzzbait so if there’s a heavy ripple from wind on the surface then the action these lures give off is not going to be very noticeable.

For more info visit the Prop Baits page

Spring and early summer are big topwater seasons because water temperatures are just right. Water temps have a big effect on bass behavior and how they feed. In temps less than 55 degrees bass are very inactive, same is said for temps above 80 degrees. When the water is in between those temps bass are energetic and aggressive, the two main ingredients required for good topwater fishing.

The reason dusk and dawn are so well known for being the best times for topwater fishing is they are low light conditions. Bass spend most of their lives staying out of the sun, because unlike humans, their eyes do not adjust to brightness. That’s why they are often found under docks, trees, lily pads, or even in deeper water. Once the sun is down though, they travel to the open shallows in search of food.

The depth range of a body of water, and water clarity, play a big role in topwater fishing. They are also a factor in what is considered “shallow”, but typically one to four feet is the range, and the best depths for topwater bass fishing. Additionally, in clearer waters, bass holding at deeper depths can still see a topwater lure or struggling baitfish on the surface.

A struggling bait fish is most often what bass think they are seeing when a topwater lure is in action, sputtering and slashing on the surface. There are topwater lures that imitate all kinds of prey like frogs, mice, even small birds, but in most cases a struggling baitfish on the surface is what they are targeting.

So when is the best time for topwater bass fishing? In low light conditions like dusk, dawn or over cast days, when the water is warm (60 degrees plus), when the water is somewhat clear, and when baitfish are active. Bass also have to be pretty active to hit topwater. If it’s a slow bite like after a cold front, the topwater bite will likely be very slow.

The quality of crab traps for sale online is pitiful, to say the least. So-called “Best Seller” crab traps on Amazon and other online retailers will either fall apart or not hold blue crabs. As somebody who has spent a bit too much on crabbing gear, I’m here to tell you the difference between a good and bad blue crab trap.

When you’re buying crabbing gear, you need to know what to look for in a trap. A great crab trap has quality material, a good design, and is built to last. I’ve used so many traps that were plainly built to fail. For each trap on this list (The conventional crab pot, box traps, ring nets, and hand lines), I will point out what will make or break a crab trap. All of this is based on past experience.

Disclaimer: This article is filled with Amazon and eBay Affiliate Links. As an affiliate for these sites, I receive a small commission for any purchase driven through my link at no extra cost to the buyer. Thank you for supporting my website. I’ll mark each affiliate link with “(Affiliate link).”

Two-Compartment Crab Pot

A crab pot is what you usually think of when you think of crabbing. It’s the type of trap you see on shows such as Deadliest Catch. I have to say that I’m disappointed with the quality of crab pots online for blue crabs. More often than not, they are very low-quality and in limited stock. This is why I buy my traps custom-made.

Through recommendations of other watermen, I have found that they have the most luck through custom trap builders. Kcrabpots, a user on eBay.com, has been building and selling quality crab pots since 2002! This is the only crab pot builder for blue crabs I’m confident in recommending. Click here to find kcrabpots on eBay. You can navigate to his store via the Visit Store button on his about page.

I wrote a review of this crab pot, which you can read here. It’s my favorite crab pot I’ve bought out of the several others I wasted hundreds of dollars on. If you want to learn from my mistakes and save your money, I recommend you read why I love this pot.

When buying a crab pot, manufacturer’s usually get two things wrong: the strength of the wire mesh and the shape of the openings.

The image above is my failed purchase of a crab pot. It was $60 down the drain! It was made out of cheap coated chicken wire that I could easily bend, and I’m not a very strong guy! Crabs had no problem clawing their way out of the sides.

Far too often, this is the case for crab pots. However, one thing this manufacturer did get right was the trap’s openings (sort of!). They came slanted upward with enough room for a crab to easily slide into the trap, but not escape. The only problem was that the openings were made of the same low-quality wire mesh. So, the crabs had no problem bending the metal and finding their way out of the trap.

To be frank, I believe it’s best to buy a crab pot either in person or from a reputable builder. Far too often, the traps at Bass Pro Shops or other retailers, like this one, just will not work.

You will also need a crab pot harness and weighted rope with a buoy for your crab pot. I’ve found Promar sells a reliable harness. I recommend weighted rope over anything else because the slack will not float to the surface and get caught by a passing boat.

If you do go the crab pot route, be sure to check your state’s crabbing regulations. States, such as Maryland, require that you register your pot at their DNR webpage. Maryland also requires that you install a turtle excluder device on each crab pot opening.

Box Traps (My favorite crab trap)

Box traps are one of the two collapsible traps recommended in this article. A collapsible trap is a type crab trap that has to be actively triggered to trap blue crabs, unlike the more passive crab pot. This works as a great alternative for those who do not have access to a boat, do their crabbing from piers, or cannot legally use a crab pot in their state.

In my opinion, the best model of the box trap is the FoxyMate Topless Crab Trap (link to an article dedicated to this crab trap). I wrote an entire articlde dedicated to this trap, so click the link to read more about it.

If you start to do research on crab traps you may get overwhelmed at the sheer number of different versions available. There are pyramid traps, box traps, topless box traps, crab pots, ring nets, and plenty more. Forget all of these terms because they aren’t important. The only trap you should get a crabber is a Foxy-Mate Topless Crab Trap.

Here’s a picture of me holding up a crab I caught in my friend’s Foxy-Mate 66 Crab Trap (Affiliate link to Amazon). It’s not the Topless Foxy-Mate (Amazon Affiliate Link) version that I like best, but it still does the job. I like the topless version because you can stack them like cups for much easier storage. I took this picture on Taylor’s Island, MD. It was a female blue crab, so I had to throw it back.

Foxy-Mates are the ideal crab trap for anyone crabbing for Blue Crabs. If you live on the East Coast, from Texas to Maine, this includes you. They’re legal in every state on the coast and don’t come with pages long of regulations like crab pots do. Plus, they’re much cheaper! They work from a pier and from a boat or kayak, you will just need to get a buoy, some rope, and possibly a crab trap weight for anyone crabbing from a boat. The weight keeps their trap from being tossed around by the current, but it’s only necessary for crabbing in the ocean or rougher waters.

I did some digging on the internet and found that Amazon has the best prices for all of the items I mentioned. Foxy-Mates (Affiliate Link to Amazon) go in and out of stock on Amazon, but that’s because they sell for the best price here. I recommend the Foxy-Mates without a top so you can stack them like cups. You will want two or three so your crabber friend can catch more crabs at once. I usually take 6 out when I’m crabbing from my kayak.

With each trap, you’re going to need a buoy if you’re crabbing from a boat or kayak. States have different rules when it comes to buoys, so I would look at the ones they already have before making a purchase. You can read about your state’s gear guidelines on my State-By-State Crabbing Regulations page.

It never hurts to get more rope either. You can get fancy and order lead-lined rope for these traps (Affiliate link to Amazon). It’s useless if you’re crabbing from a pier, but if you’re using these traps from a boat it’s really helpful. This rope sinks with the trap, rather than float at the surface, which prevents it from getting caught in boat propellers.

With this trap, you’re going to want a weight if they are crabbing in rougher waters. I always recommend this Crab Trap Weight (Affiliate Link to Amazon) that you can zip tie to a Foxy-Mate. Tip: You can get away with zip-tie-ing some cut rebar to the trap as well, which is much cheaper.

I’ll briefly go over why I like this trap. I can sum it up in one sentence: It’s built to last a very long time and has no trouble catching blue crabs.

The trap works by laying flat with bait in the center to attract crabs. You can fasten your choice of bait with the spring at the center of the trap. When a crab tries to eat the bait, you pull on the harness to fold the cage’s doors upward and trap the poor crab.

It’s a great alternative to a crab pot, and much cheaper! It just takes active participation fro the crabber.

The only problem with this model of topless crab traps is that they are in short supply. They sporadically pop up on eBay or Amazon. If that’s the case, you may have to use a more-available FoxyMate box trap with the top. I find the topless version better because it’s stackable. It’s not more effective at catching crabs, just more convenient.

Hand-Lines (The beginner-friendly budget trap!)

Last up on this list is the basic Hand-Line, also known as a throw-line. It’s a step up from using plain old string and a net to catch blue crabs, as people have been doing for centuries.

They work by luring crabs to a piece of bait secured to some string. When the crab finds the bait, slowly pull the bait towards you with the attached string. Once it’s in view, scoop up the crab with a dip net.

The concept is as simple as this trap. It’s a clip to better secure your bait with a built-in weight so the line goes further out in the water. This won’t limit you to plain old chicken necks, which are easiest to tie to some string.

I’ve found that when it comes to hand lines, the cheapest options do the trick. I recommend this Hand Line on Amazon (Affiliate Link). I was surprised at how many I could buy on this Amazon listing for such a low price, which is great because you need around 6 hand lines at a time to catch a decent amount of crabs.

I was surprised at what a good price his dip net was on Amazon, for a high-quality tool (Affiliate Link). If not this one, make sure to get a net with a similar mesh that’s small. I’ve found that with wider-spaced nets, crabs like to cling on for dear life which makes them annoying to deal with.

Traps I Would Avoid

There are so many traps on the internet that websites recommend to beginner crabbers because they don’t know any better! Don’t get tricked and waste your money.

Ring Nets (A worse version of the box trap for the same price!)

A ring net is a circular net that lays flat on the bottom until you pull on its string. When you do, it takes the shape of something like a basket, trapping any poor crab caught in the middle. You’ll find these traps on clearance at your local Walmart or bait shop since no one wants them!

If you’re going to use a collapsible trap like this, stick with a box trap. They’re more durable and reliable at catching crabs for the same price.

If you do end up using this trap, my recommendation of ring nets for blue crabs is the Hurricane Two-Ring Net (Affiliate Link). I’ve found that this is the highest-quality ring net on the market for the lowest price. It’s much cheaper than any box trap or crab pot and perfect for some hands-on crabbing.

The Hurricane Two-Ring Net is durable. Instead of the more common cotton netting ring nets that many beginner crabbers get sucked into buying, this net is made of wire mesh. While any cotton mesh net will fall apart after one or two crabbing trips, the Hurricane will stay together.

A few downsides with this ring net are the harness and lack of bait clip. The harness is made out of pretty cheap cotton string that I recommend replacing with a more durable string. Pormar made a harness for crab pots that should work perfectly here, click here to check it out on Amazon (Affiliate Link).

This ring net has no place to put your bait. Bait that gets lost in the current or stolen by crabs can ruin a crabbing trip. I’ve had some luck using a few zip ties to tie down chicken or fish (depending on what I’m using that day) to the center of the net.

One problem I’ve found with this trap is that the S-ring at the top of the harness will sometimes get caught in the wire mesh. This will prevent the net from creating a hoop-shape when you pull it up, which lets any crab in the middle to get away! I never have this problem with a box trap!

Among bass anglers, there’s a major misconception about fishing frog patterns. Many anglers believe that there must be frogs living in the reservoir, natural lake or pond for a frog-style bait to be effective. Others think you need to have mats, weeds or moss to fish a frog.

None of those are true.

“When you put a frog on the mat, bass don’t know if it’s a mouse, a baitfish flipping around or a black bird. A lot of times, the frog imitates a number of things, not just a frog,” says professional bass angler Gary Dobyns, the all-time leading money winner in the West. “I’ve seen water snakes eaten when they are on top of a mat. Bass are ferocious predators. They just eat whatever moves on top of that mat and figure out what it is later. Half the time they don’t know what it is. Twice, I’ve seen bass try to eat full-grown coots. They didn’t get them, but they sure tried.”

Depending on weather and water temperature, frogs can be effective all year. May, however, is the traditional start of the frog season. Frogs can be effective from May through the fall in most waters in the western United States. Regardless of the water’s structure, most lakes, reservoirs, ponds, sloughs, backwaters, natural lakes and rivers in the West harbor a place for frog fishing. In fact, there isn’t a place in the West where a properly fished frog bait won’t catch bass.

“You can throw frogs on any lake, period, and they’ll catch fish,” says Dobyns. “I’ve caught my frog fish in Lake Mead, Lake Powell, Lake Oroville and in the Columbia River – places where you don’t have grass. You can catch frog fish anywhere.”

POLLEN LINESEvery serious bass angler knows that frogs can be effective anywhere grass is found. But Dobyns’ biggest secret is fishing frogs in areas devoid of greenery. For example, while few anglers fish pollen slicks with frogs, Dobyns wins tournaments by targeting them.

Floating pollen is common in most Western waters. Dobyns looks for areas where a breeze pushes pollen into a pocket or along the shoreline.

“Fishing frogs on a pollen line is my best-kept secret,” he said, fully knowing his words would soon be printed. “If you fish a frog on top of the pollen scum line, you can catch a boatload of bass. The bass hardly ever see frogs, so they are easy to fool. They’re sitting right underneath the scum line of pollen. It’s like a mat. They get right underneath it. There’s shade and no light penetration, so you always have bass there.”

And because no one else knows those fish are there, Dobyns is busy catching fish other anglers simply overlook. “It’s a secret. No one does it.”

Many bass pros seek out specific water to throw frogs, but Dobyns is a little more flexible. He commonly casts frogs into open water where most folks wouldn’t think of fishing them. “You can throw a frog in some places that you can’t throw anything else. A frog won’t snag, so you can throw it anywhere,” says Dobyns, who tosses frogs on 65-pound Power Pro. “Braided line is very important. You don’t want any stretch. With braid, you get good, solid hookups. You want to be able to power the fish out of the mat.”

GRASSLESS FISHING

Mats aren’t the only place where frogs are effective. Anglers can find success pitching frogs into debris pockets of wood, grass, pollen slicks, tules and any heavy-matted vegetation. On the contrary, many pros have made a living pitching frogs in open water.

“I like throwing them to the bank,” says Art Berry, former Bassmaster champion. “You need to be able to cast the frog to where the water meets the bank. The key is getting the frog as shallow as possible. Everybody knows that frogs live close to the shore. The bass pin them against the bank. You want to throw to the bank, whether there are trees, grass, moss or overhanging branches on the bank.”

The point is that you don’t have to find grass to enjoy success.

“Most of the frog-fish I catch are not caught underneath the mat. They’re caught around brush, trees and in open water around grass,” Berry said. “They’ll probably eat the frog in the spot where you didn’t think you would ever get bit.”

On the other hand, time of day can affect results. Weather can also be a determining factor in frog-fishing success. Many anglers see catch rates increase toward midday and late afternoon. This is because typically, the water is warmer during this time and bass are in covered areas. Dobyns finds the best action with frogs occurs on hot, clear, calm days.

“I think the hot is a given. It makes the fish get in the shade, which most of the time is going to be underneath the mats. Clear is because it will put them in specific spots. If it’s an overcast day they don’t need the cover, but if it’s bright and sunny they need to hunt any cover they can over the top of their heads,” added Dobyns. “Calm – well, I’ve always believed that topwater baits drive fish crazy in calm water. I like fishing frogs in calm water. I’ll throw them in wind, but ask what my perfect situation is, and it’s flat.”

HOW TO FISH A FROG

Knowing how to fish a frog is a science, not something that comes overnight. As with all techniques, the more you employ it, the more confidence you’ll have when fishing it.

“People wonder why a bass short-strikes a frog. It’s because often the angler isn’t fishing it right or the frog isn’t swimming right,” Berry added. “You need to get the frog to be able to walk. Most guys don’t know how to walk a frog and they don’t have the right gear when they fish them.”

By “gear,” Berry means line, rod and reel.

“You don’t want to go have an out-of-the-package frog tied on mono line,” he said.

However, you do want to learn how to train a frog to glide flawlessly through the water. Simply skirting a frog along the surface will generate strikes, but if you make sure the frog swims to its potential, you’ll increase strikes. Berry points his rod tip down, rather than up, and employs short strokes, perhaps four to five inches.

“I just imagine that there’s a needle on the end of my rod and there’s a balloon. I don’t want to pop the balloon. When I move the tip of the rod, I do so just enough to touch the balloon, but not pop it. It’s just like if you were working a Zara Spook,” he explained. “You don’t want to pull and pull the frog through the water because it won’t

swim right. You want the frog to stay in one spot as long as you can. You have to make the frog walk on slack line.”

Easier said than done! But with practice, the technique can be perfected. By not pulling the frog, you’re allowing it to remain in the strike zone for longer periods of time, thus giving bass more time to grab it.

BIG BASS, LITTLE BASS

Many anglers perceive frogs as big-fish baits. However, they’re often surprised when barely legal bass grab half-ounce frogs, proving that bass of all ages and sizes are keen on eating frogs.

“I’ve caught non-keepers that eat frogs, but usually you catch at least keepers,” Dobyns said, pointing out that Kent Brown once caught a five-fish limit of 5-pound bass on frogs while fishing the Sacramento/San Joaquin Delta.

On the contrary, a frog can be one of the most effective big-fish baits. “I think a frog is by far the best big-fish bait that’s ever been made, other than fishing a swimbait,” Dobyns said. “You’ll catch way more fish on frogs than swimbaits. I’ve won more money on a frog than any other bait.”

Choosing a frog can be a chore. Aisles at sporting good stores and tackle shops offer dozens of brands of frogs. Nevertheless, many that appeal to the eye aren’t effective in the water. Some anglers say that it’s a personal preference as to which frog they fish with. Others pay attention to the chemistry and construction of the frog.

SELECTING FROG BAITS

“It boils down to your personal favorite with some frogs. The thing that I want a frog to do is, I want a frog to be able to walk,” Dobyns said. “I want to be able to work my rod tip and get the frog to walk side to side, like you would a Zara Spook. I want to be able to work it across the mat, and when I hit open water, I want to be able to walk it to another mat. Many times I fish frogs in open water. I think I probably catch 75 percent of my frog-fish in open water.”

Nearly every major bass tackle manufacturer designs frogs. Some are more effective than others, however.

“What do I think the best frog on the market is? I think the best is Dean Rojas’ Spro frog. What makes this frog the best is, it’s very easy to walk. And the hook position on the bait enables you to catch almost 100 percent of the fish that strike,” says Dobyns, who casts frogs with a Powell 735C Frog Rod and a Daiwa TDA high-speed reel. “With some of the frogs out there, you may only catch 20 percent of the fish that bite because the hook is too far down on the body. This is because they just have a poor design. But with the Spro frog, the hook is in the perfect position and it’s 100 percent weedless.”

Having the frog glide fluently in the water is vital, but there are other factors to consider, too. Frogs come in several sizes, ranging from a quarter-ounce to nearly an ounce.

“I throw one size and that’s it,” says Dobyns, who throws only half-ounce frogs. “I think it’s a perfect size. It’s not too big to catch smaller fish, but big enough to catch big fish.”

SPLITTING HAIRS

Berry takes frog fishing to another level, though, and goes so far as to actually count the strands of rubber used to create each leg. He believes that there are very few quality frogs on the market. “The biggest thing for someone new to frog fishing is that they need to know that most frogs you buy at the store aren’t worth a damn,” Berry said. “There are no good out-of-the-package frogs, no frog that you can buy that will work great out of the package.”

Berry says frogs come standard with 20 strands of rubber in each leg. But for an imitation frog to swim properly, he says it can only have 10 to 12 strands of rubber on each side. “What I do is cut the strands off the frog so there are only 10 to 12. You want to cut the legs up near the base. You want to leave just a hair, maybe a quarter-inch before they go to the base of the frog,” he says.

ADD SOME COLOR

Berry isn’t done yet. Next, he takes a hand file and files the round weight in the rear of the frog, saying it’s imperative to file it completely flat.

“You can’t use a power tool to file it down because the lead gets too hot and you melt the plastic on the frog, which can cause the weight to fall out. You want to make sure the weight is flat so it’s paper-thin,” he added.

Berry then moves to step three, which consists of taking two Sharpie pens and drawing roughly 20 to 25 small dots on the bellies and the sides of the frog. Berry recommends laying it down on cardboard and putting its legs together. Then he adds a varied pattern of colored dots every quarter-inch, using combinations of white, black, green and yellow.

“When you use a Sharpie pen on the frog, the frog will look really pretty right off the bat. But the ink bleeds into the rubber after a couple of days, and the tiny dots become bigger and bigger,” Berry said. “That’s OK, this is what you want it to do. The key is coloring the rubber itself. Any frogs you see in water will have lots of dots on their bellies.”

LET’S GET REAL

Berry also colors the weight black and the eyelid (where your line ties to) black as well.

“It can only be black. You want your line to be black because black doesn’t show up as good in the water and it doesn’t come off your line. If you use a frog that has a shiny eyelid and a fish sees that, they aren’t going to eat it. Come on! They know that’s not a real frog,” added Berry.

“There are key things that a lot of people miss out on. Most of the frogs that are on the shelves don’t look real and by doing these little things, you can make your frog look real and ensure that it’ll swim like a frog.”

Berry credits Andre Moore, owner of Reaction Innovations, for most of his frog-fishing secrets.

“I feel like my frog will out-fish any frog on the market because of these adjustments,” Berry said. “A lot of people get mad at me because I give all my secrets away, but this is something that anyone can do. I’m into promoting the sport of bass fishing, and if people follow these simple things we’ve discussed, they’ll catch more fish. It’s taken my whole life to learn this. An average guy can go into the tackle store and do this. You can make the frog look real.”

What seems odd though, is that if this method works so well, why hasn’t a company made a frog that has all these qualities? “Because I haven’t told anybody yet,” Berry said. “There are a few people that do this already, but most guys don’t know about this.”

They do now!

Dobyns and Berry use Power Pro braided line religiously. They both go as far as saying that if you aren’t using 65-pound braided line, you shouldn’t fish frog baits at all. Neither uses monofilament line when fishing frogs. “There’s no stretch and the abrasion resistance is incredible. The key thing is the distance you can cast with a frog on braid. You can catch it a country mile,” Berry sai

d.

If you own a taxidermy mount, it is always a good thing to keep it clean. Keeping it clean prevents unwanted guests from touching your taxidermy. Suppose there are any concerns about insects damaging your taxidermy. In that case, it is important to occasionally inspect your mount-especially around the mouth, antlers, and around the ears- for signs of any pests.

Cleaning your mounts often ensures that they look fresh and lifelike. Depending on the type of mount you have, the cleaning process will vary from one to the other. Here are a few tips on how to clean and care for Taxidermy Bird Mounts.

Dust your bird regularly

Cleaning your bird mount is crucial as it ensures that dirt or dust does not build up. The frequency of dusting your bird depends on the place you live, among other factors. People who live in dustier areas will need to do the cleaning more often.

When removing excess dust, a feather duster works well. You can also dust your bird mounts by gently brushing them using a cotton ball in the direction of the feathers. In addition to that, you can also use a hairdryer at arms-length to de-dust your bird regularly.

Please make sure the hairdryer is in its most relaxed and lowest setting and use it in the same direction as the feathers to avoid damages. Do all this instead of using solvents. The birds’ feathers usually have some natural oil that several solvents can strip, leaving them more brittle.

All the skin surface of birds such as legs, the skin around the eye, beaks, and featherless skin areas for some birds like the vultures’ neck and the head is some species have preparators painted on them. Cleaning these places with solvents may not work well with preparators. As a result, using solvents should only be a last resort.

In cases where you must remove dust on bird taxidermy mounts held by grease emanating from poorly prepared skins, you will have to use some solvents cautiously. Make sure you are using gentle solvents and take your time.

Start by using simple distilled water and barely-damp swabs and see if that solves the problem. If the dust is stubborn enough, move up and use non-denatured 70% ethanol. It is doubtful you will find any dusty taxidermy specimen that requires anything more potent than the non-denatured 70% ethanol.

Do not immerse the specimen in any solvent or leave it wet. Do not wet the skin of your bird mount unless it is a featherless area. If you also wet the featherless skin areas, be sure to dry them thoroughly. Birds have fragile skin, and moisture can quickly wick through it, making it swell and split.

Use lacquer thinner

If your Taxidermy Bird Mounts have residual dust on the feather, experts recommend we avoid using water. Water tends to matte and messes up with the feathers. Instead, lightly dampen a rag with lacquer thinner and wipe the mount off. The feathers absorb lacquer thinner as it evaporates, quickly bringing out the shiny bit of the bird’s feathers. When brushing your bird, be sure to wipe it gently and in the same direction as the feathers. However, it would be best if you stayed away from all painted areas.

Keep it out of the sun

Your Taxidermy Bird Mounts need to be displayed prominently but be sure where you put them. Avoid placing your mounts in direct sunlight. Direct sunlight will breach the feathers of your bird, making them fade.

To ensure that you maintain the original richness and vibrant colors of your birds’ feathers, keep them out of direct sunlight. Place your mount near a window, and they will soon succumb to damage because of too much presence of ultraviolet (UV) light.

For white-coated birds, the UV light will change them to yellow. For bird mounts with darker colors, they will become bleached. If the only place to showcase your birds is near a sunny window, make sure you install quality UV blocking window films.

Be wary of smoke

From wood-burning stoves and burning logs in fireplaces to smoking cigarettes and cigars indoors, it is essential to know that smoke can ruin your Taxidermy Bird Mounts. Therefore, avoid displaying your mounts over smoke-producing fixtures or hanging your prized taxidermy trophies in your cigar room.

In addition, prolonged exposure of your artworks to smoke will discolor them. To clean smoke damage from your taxidermy, you need to follow a few steps:

• In a bucket of warm water, mix three droplets of dish soap.
• Agitate the solution to make a sudsy solution
• Get a clean sponge and saturate it in the sudsy soap solution
• Squeeze out all the excess solution from the sponge so that it is damp but not soaking wet
• Wipe the stuck smoke gently and in the direction of the feathers

Use OdorXit to eliminate odor in Taxidermy Bird Mounts

Do you have a bird mount that is smelling like rancid fat or meat? Smelling mounts can often be worrying, and at the same time, can put you in a dilemma on the next step to take. Birds have feathers, and their bones are very thin and fragile.

How can you remove the fat and muscle without destroying the feathers and skin of your taxidermy bird?

Most taxidermy trophy owners ask themselves this question. The answer is, you can inject small amounts of 20 to 1 OdorXit solution into the fingers and wing joints. OdorXit eliminates the odor quickly. To take care of the exterior odor, spray 30 to 1 OdorXit solution onto the feathers and skin.

Your taxidermy mount always deserves the best treatment and care. That is why you need to work with professional and compassionate bird taxidermist who understand and care about your pet. If your mounts crack or become brittle, they can restore them. If your fur/feathers are not in good shape, or you have a cracked tongue or nose, the taxidermist can re-clay them. They always ensure that your bird is in perfect condition every time you mount it. With tips and experience possessed by taxidermists, they will make sure your artwork lasts forever.

Ask any gun enthusiast which is their favorite rifle cartridge, and they will most likely tell you the .308. First introduced in 1952, it has become the cartridge of choice for hunting, sporting, military, and law enforcement.

Deep penetration and long-range capability are some of the reasons why it is so beloved. Also, the .308 Winchester is compatible with a wide variety of rifles. So much so that it is tough to pin down the best 308 rifles.

From bolt action rifles to AR-10s, the .308 Winchester is one of the most versatile cartridges out there. So which is the best .308 rifle on the market? This is undoubtedly a difficult question to answer.

Nonetheless, after researching extensively on the subject, we have narrowed it down to 10 rifles. These ten are in different categories. We have selected the ten based on their performance, user feedback, and our own personal experiences.

A Quick Check Of The Best 308 Hunting Rifle For The Money

The Best Bolt Action .308 Rifles

In an age where everything is automated, firearms included, bolt action rifles are a rare exception. To operate a bolt rifle you need to manually pull back the bolt and push it forward to chamber around. While these rifles rely on a rather ancient technology, their reliability cannot be disputed. They are popular with hunters. However, they are also used as sniper rifles in the military. From our research the best bolt action .308 rifles are;

Savage Arms 10 FCP HS Precision Rifle

• 24-inch barrel
• Matte black finish
• Removable 4-round magazine
• 10-pound weight

The title of the best 308 bolt action rifle for the money goes to the Savage Arms 10 FCP precision rifle. At its core, it is a versatile rifle capable of fulfilling several roles. It has all the features of a reliable tactical gun and is also a dependable hunting rifle for deer.

Carbon steel is the primary material used to make this weapon. It is the material that is used to build the rifle’s 24-inch barrel as well as its receiver. Speaking of the receiver, we found it to be super rigid.

As for the barrel, it is built with a heavy profile aimed at minimizing barrel whip. At the back is the adjustable Savage AccuTrigger. The rifle is fitted with a removable magazine that holds four rounds.

Our main issue with the rifle is that it is not the most lightweight. Weighing 9.6 pounds, mainly this is quite a heavy firearm. However, this is primarily due to the heavy barrel.

Remington® Model 783™ Bolt-Action Rifle and Scope Combo

• Adjustable crossfire trigger system
• Factory pre-installed 3-9×40 scope for 308 cal
• Removable steel box magazine
• 22-inch Magnum Contour Barrel

Costing over $1000, the Savage Arms 10 FCP is not for everyone. The same cannot be said about Remington’s 783 bolt action rifle. Priced at below $500, it is one of the more affordable options available on the market.

The rifle comes with a free-floated carbon steel barrel. But what makes this rifle stand out is the adjustable crossfire trigger system. We found the trigger system to be quite impressive, considering the rifle’s price.

We found the push-feed action and 90 degrees bolt throw smooth and positive. However, the gun’s two-position safety was a bit clunky. Nevertheless, it worked well enough. You get a four-round steel magazine with a steel magazine latch. This is a welcome addition given the price tag.

If you are on a budget, this is the best .308-action rifle. Its features are rare to find in guns at its price point.

Top Semi Auto Rifle 308

Unlike bolt action rifles, semi-automatic rifles use a gas blowback system to chamber rounds. Thus there is no manual operation. As such, they are considered ideal for tactical purposes.

The most popular semi-automatic rifles are AR-10-style firearms. For tactical purposes below is our pick of the best 308 tactical rifle.

Savage MSR 10 Hunter Semiautomatic Tactical Rifle

• 5R rifled 18-inch barrel
• Six-position AXIOM stock
• AR blaze trigger
• The lower and upper receiver

Savage Arms’ MSR 10 Hunter may look like an AR-10-style weapon, but it’s very different from conventional AR-10s. As its name suggests, it is built for hunting purposes. However, it can be used as a tactical rifle as well.

With a 16-inch barrel, its design is reminiscent of that or a carbine. Meaning it will be easy to use in either a tree stand or a ground blind. It uses the same direct impingement of other gas-operated AR-10s.

Compared to other AR-10-style firearms, this one has a shortened aluminum-alloy receiver. Similarly, the bolt carrier is also shortened. The result is a shorter rifle that weighs less than most similar firearms.

Another unique feature is the 12-inch free-floating handguard with MagPul’s M-lock system. This comes in handy when you need to install accessories. Instead of hanging on the barrel nut, the handguard is bolted directly onto the upper receiver. This translates to the gun being more accurate.

Though it’s been around since 2017, it is the best semi-auto 308 chambered rifle around for hunting.

Top 308 Hunting Rifle

Hunting is an art that requires specialized tools. Thus, not every rifle is suited for hunting. The 308 hunting rifle needs to be lightweight and compact. A heavy rifle will be difficult to handle as you traverse different vegetation and environments.

Accuracy is another important factor to consider. Ideally, bolt-action rifles are best suited for hunting. And here are our top picks.

The Ruger No 1 Centerfires Rifles

• Sliding tang safety
• Ruger scope mounting system
• Sculpted receiver
• 18 inch barrel

The title of the best 308 rifles for hunting has to go to the Ruger No 1 Centerfires Rifle. A gun that has stood the test of time has proven itself time and time again. And remains a darling of many the world over.

Available in several variations, the single-shot hunting rifle is steeped in the simplicity of the past. What makes it so popular is its ambidextrous nature. There is no line disturbing comb on the buttstock, and neither is there a cheekpiece.

More importantly, it comes with a tang-mounted safety and no bolt to interfere with the operation. The buttstock has a rubber recoil pad with a black spacer. The pistol grip is something many love about this gun. This is a classic gun with all the features of a top-quality 308 hunting rifle.

So what makes it the best choice for hunters? For starters it has a thin action which makes it easy to hold in one hand. It’s also just the right height for carrying over your shoulder. The absence of a protruding bolt handle makes it easy to carry on while on horseback.

Winchester Model 70™ Featherweight Rifle

• 3-position safety
• Grade-I walnut stock
• Pachmayr Decelerator recoil pad
• 22 inch barrel

Like wine, the Model 70 has gotten better with age. This hard-hitting bolt-action rifle of the 1950s is still widely used. The walnut stock of the original Model 70 was a thing of beauty. And although modern Model 70’s come with a wooden stock, it is still a feast for the eyes.

While it has undergone design changes over its 66 years of existence, the modern Model 70 still retains some of the flair of the original. The current Model 70 still uses the original’s controlled round feeding system.

The MOA trigger system is by far the most exceptional trigger system to be fitted on a bolt-action rifle. It has zero take-ups, zero creeps, and zero overtravel. The stock still has the Pachmayr recoil pad that soaks up much of the recoil.

Top 308 Battle Rifle

The chaos of battle necessitates a semi-automatic rifle that is both hard-hitting and easy to handle. Throughout history, there have been a plethora of battle rifles designed for the 308 cartridges.

One of the most famous battle rifles is the M14 Garand. Thus it should come as no surprise that the best battle rifle is one that is a close relative of the Garand. The Springfield Armory M1A-A1 rifle.

Springfield Armory M1A-A1 semiautomatic rifle

• 18 inch carbon steel barrel
• Composite stock
• Two-stage trigger
• Muzzle break

The M1 Garand was the darling of the US military during world war two. It even saw action in Vietnam. Needless to say, it’s a legendary rifle, and its successor is no different. The Springfield Armory M1A-1A.

The walnut stock paired with a parkerized steel is reminiscent of its more legendary counterpart the M14 Garand. Left-handed shooters will love the positioning of the rifle’s charging handle. It is located on the right side of the action. Making it easy to reach.

One of the things we loved about this battle rifle is how easy it is to change the magazine. The positioning of the magazine release at the rear of the magazine well makes it easy to release the magazine.

The trigger is also a delight. It is a classic military two-stage trigger that requires little effort. While it is good enough to earn the title of the best 308 battle rifle, there are some things we did not like.

The main one is the positioning of the bolt release. Positioned on the left side of the receiver, we found it to be challenging to locate. All the same, it is a fantastic piece of military hardware that has continued the legacy of its predecessor.

308 Sniper Rifle Review

Sniper rifles are designed for precision shooting from a distance. As such, they require advanced technologies for accurate shooting. Due to their sophistication sniper rifles are quite costly. Most cost upwards of $5000. When you are splashing such kind of money on a rifle you need one that can deliver. The Accuracy International AX black rifle is undoubtedly the best you can buy.

Accuracy International AX Black .308 Win. 20” Rifle SFP PSR-BL308-BL20-SP

• 40.5-inch overall length
• Two-stage adjustable trigger
• 20-inch stainless barrel
• 20 MOA Picatinny rail

If you are feeling adventurous and want to splash money on the best 308 sniper rifle, you cannot go wrong with AX Black .308. The latter is a flagship sniper rifle from Accuracy International. Costing upwards of $7000 is quite the prize. Unlike most other guns on this list, this one is made from aircraft-grade aluminum. The aluminum is then coated in a corrosion-resistant protective coating. It comes installed with a rail for mounting accessories such as optics.

The QuickLoc barrel release system allows for easy and fast removal of the barrel. You can swap out the barrel using a 4 mm hex wrench. The whole process takes a few minutes. It is also fitted with a chassis folding stock that reduces the length of the gun by up to 260mm.

The magazine holds ten rounds and is a low-friction magazine. Accuracy International’s tested and proven 3-position safety improves the design of this weapon.

308 Tactical Rifle Reviews

When it comes to close-quarter combat or shooting tactical rifles are best. And the best tactical rifles are AR-10 and AR-15 style rifles. These rifles are also easy to handle and most importantly need to be ambidextrous.

Smith & Wesson M&P 10 sport

• 20 round magazine
• Picatinny rail system
• 6-position telescopic stock
• 16-inch barrel

AR-10-style rifles are considered fantastic for tactical purposes. And the Smith & Wesson M&P 10 sport is among the best. It is by far the best 308 tactical rifle due to its combination of excellent performance and a relatively affordable price tag.

Priced at around $1000, it is quite affordable for an AR-10 rifle. However, the most important thing is how it is compared to other AR-10 rifles. The first thing you notice about this rifle is the availability of all the main controls on both sides.

The safety selector, bolt catch, and magazine catch controls are available on both sides. This means it can be used comfortably by both left and right-handed shooters. Additionally, the magazine is textured to give a secure grip.

The upper receiver isn’t anything we haven’t seen before. You get the same forward assist and solid rail that comes with other AR-10 platforms. What was a bit disappointing about the rifle was the standard charging handle. It is stiff and small than average.

In spite of its few shortcomings, it is still the best 308 semi-auto tactical rifle in our view — especially given its price and features. If you are a serious hunter and want to get a perfect bull’s eye hit try to use one of today’s best bipods For AR 15 rifle.

Budget 308 Rifles Review

Spending $1000 on a rifle is not possible for everyone. For some of us, $500 is the most we are able and willing to spend on a firearm. Fortunately, there are some fantastic rifle options available in the budget market. These are rifles that cost less than $500. Ideally, a budget gun should offer quality without breaking the bank. Our choice for this category is the Ruger American Rifle Bolt action rifle.

Ruger American Rifle Bolt Action Rifles

• 3-5 pound adjustable trigger
• Rotary magazine
• Three-lug bolt
• 22 inch barrel

You don’t need to spend thousands of dollars on a bolt-action rifle. With $500 or less, you can get your hands on the Ruger American Rifle. While it is an affordable rifle, it does not feel or even look cheap thanks to its parts.

The stock is made of a rigid polymer plastic of some kind. It looks sleek and does not have the same grip as some other similar products. However, this isn’t a big problem. Its barrel, on the other hand, is a free-floating barrel. Generally, free-floating barrels offer more accuracy. Thus the use of a free-floating barrel is very much welcomed. Some people may not be pleased with the trigger on this rifle, though. Like many other budget rifles, it utilizes an adjustable trigger that feels cheap.

Nonetheless, this is not a deal-breaker, especially since this is designed to be a budget rifle for target shooting.

The Best 308 Rifles For The Money

Value for money is important when choosing a firearm. When choosing a firearm, it is important to consider the price and the features they offer. There should be a balance between the price and features offered by a firearm. The one firearm that offers the best balance of features and price is the Bergara B-14 HMR.

Bergara B-14 HMR

• 5 round magazine
• 20-inch barrel
• The adjustable extended bolt handle
• 9-pound weight

Precision shooters and big game hunters will love the Bergara B-4 HMR hunting bolt action rifle. Weighing about 9 pounds and fitted with a 22-inch contoured barrel, it is not too heavy for carrying through forests and foothills.

The stock of the gun helps in transitioning from a big game hunting rifle to a precision shooting one. An aluminum mini chassis is molded into the polymer stock to form a pistol grip. It also allows the barrel to float freely.

The stock also has an adjustable comb height and length of pull, which also aid inaccuracy. By loosening a thumbscrew on the side of the buttstock, you can increase height by 1.25 inches. The increased comb height allows for better shooting.

On the other hand, the 22-inch barrel is long enough to provide the velocity needed for a match. But it’s also not too long as to be difficult to maneuver while on a hunt.

What To Consider and Avoid Before Buying 308 Rifles

These ten are just a few of the many rifles that accept the .308 cartridge. The market is flooded with all kinds of .308 rifles. So how do you choose the best for you? It all depends on what you are going to use your gun for.

For Hunting

If you are a hunter, chances are you will be carrying your rifle for long distances. As such, the 308 hunting rifle needs to be lightweight and functional. Less emphasis is placed on accuracy when it comes to a hunting rifle. As more emphasis is placed on ease of handling and weight. A hunting rifle should be lightweight and easy to handle. Also, hunting rifles accommodate only a small number of rounds. In most states, there is a limit on the number of hunting rifles can hold. Most hunting rifles are built with internal magazines. Though these types of magazines are slower to load, they make the gun look sleek. Also, an internal magazine means fewer moving parts.

Weight

While hunting rifles are lightweight, target shooting rifles are not. In fact, for target shooting, you are encouraged to get a heavier gun. A gun with a heavy barrel rifle offers more stability, which is what you need when target shooting. Also, more weight means reduced felt recoil. It also means more stability in the sight picture. All of which are essential for target practice.

Cost

Three hundred eight rifle prices range from as low as $400 to as much as $7,000. For hunting purposes, a $500 rifle is more than sufficient. However, if you want a tactical rifle, be ready to spend a bit more cash. Tactical rifles are designed to offer the best of both worlds. They offer the maneuverability of a hunting rifle and the precision of a target-shooting rifle. As such, they come equipped with advanced features and technologies. These types of rifles are used mainly in military and law enforcement. Additionally, they are also commonly used in “run and gun” style shooting competitions. The bottom line there is no need to spend thousands of dollars for a rifle that you will use for hunting.

Brand

This isn’t the most critical factor to consider, but it is something to have in mind. Some of the best rifle brands include Winchester, Ruger, Remington, and Smith & Wesson. While there are many other gun makers out there, some people may feel comfortable buying from these mentioned.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

Due to the sheer number of rifles that use the .308 cartridge, you will be spoilt for choice when searching for a .308 rifle. Thus, it is essential to consider what type of rifle suits you best. While bolt action rifles are ideal for hunting, they are not recommended for close quarter shooting.