What if you really needed a rifle to survive outdoors?

What I mean by that is if you are a camper, a hiker, a kayaker, or anything involving the great outdoors and endless adventure, then you may carry a gun for survival purposes.

There is no logic or mercy in the great outdoors, and once you step out of civilization and into nature, you are just another part of the food chain.

As my Gunnery Sergeant would say, “it would behoove you to be ready for it.”

Some carry a handgun, some a packable shotgun, but others may prefer to take a rifle. A rifle offers more range than either a shotgun or pistol, and they are relatively more comfortable to shoot accurately.

They have less recoil than most shotguns, and their design often makes them quite compact.

Let’s go through what I deem a true “survival rifle” and my top picks to get you out of trouble. So keep reading!

THE QUICK LIST

Why You Should Trust Us

Input into this article came from the PPT editorial team, who has a combined shooting experience of 30+ years and includes instructors and competitors in multiple disciplines.

We’ve spent countless hours researching and analyzing guns and gear to determine which is the best when it comes to features, reliability, ergonomics, and bang for your buck.

We had to make some tough calls. If you don’t see your favorite rifle, it doesn’t mean we hate it, just that we couldn’t include it this time.

Defining Survival

People tend to define survival differently.

When people hear the word survival, they may think long term disaster scenario or massive emergency (see our Essential SHTF Gear). That’s fair enough, but today we are talking about more localized and personal situations.

I’m thinking hikers, campers, pilots, and anyone who spends time outdoors in the brush, over the water, and more.

This guide is also written for folks like me who live in the middle of nowhere and may desire a vehicle gun they could hike with, in the event of a severe breakdown.

These situations mean shooters are less likely to encounter a defensive situation involving another person but more than likely might encounter pests, predators like coyotes, and of course, snakes. You may also need to eat if the survival situations go on for days, so you need a game-getting gun too.

This is how I define a survival rifle.

My Standards

The likelihood of having to use one of these rifles is quite low.

I’ve been camping, hunting, hiking, and adventuring hundreds of times and never had to use mine. I have taken a few squirrels for fun and to cook over a campfire, but never needed to for survival.

With this in mind, I want the rifle to be extremely small and unobtrusive. Something you can pack without it taking up too much room or weighing too much.

For these reasons, I came up with a few standards:

• First, it needs to weigh less than 5 pounds.
• Second, it needs to be capable of fitting in a standard-size backpack. This means the gun is required to break down or fold in some way.
• Third, the design needs to have lightweight ammo that is easy to find and easy to store.

This leads me to eight distinct rifles…

Best Takedown Survival Rifles

1. Ruger 10/22 Takedown

The Ruger 10/22 is, without a doubt, the most popular rimfire rifle ever. It’s been made in the millions since the 1960s and is the standard for semi-auto .22 LRs.

The Takedown model allows the gun to be split in half and easily toted.

This is a proper rifle with a real stock, a comb for a cheek rest, and handguards. It’s everything the Chiappa is not.

It only weighs 4.6 pounds in its factory configuration and skates right under my 5-pound limit. I own a standard 10/22, and it’s one of the most fun guns I’ve ever handled.

As a semi-auto. 22 LR rifle, the gun is very easy to handle, and you can quickly dump rounds into a target. This makes it a bit more capable of taking on larger dangerous animals.

Admittedly, I’d want something bigger, but 10 rounds of .22 LR should cause enough pain compliance for a lot of animals to change their mind.

10/22 Takedown also comes with a carrying case which is nice, but it’s also easy to pack into a bag on its own. You can find magazines for the Ruger 10/22 that can hold 10, 15, 25, and even up to 110 rounds in a drum.

The takedown and assembly procedure is straightforward and quick. Its stainless steel parts are rust-resistant and very easy to clean, which is convenient for a survival rifle.

The Ruger 10/22 is an extremely reliable gun and one of the most customizable rifles you can buy.

It’s easy to tailor to your needs and is ultimately a gun you won’t regret buying. If you choose the Ruger 10/22 Takedown as your survival rifle, it can double as a great plinking gun.

Of course, you can choose any of the Ruger 10/22 models and still be decently equipped.

Oh…and there’s tons of great ammo out there. Check out our Best .22 LR Ammo Guide.

2. Henry AR-7

The Henry AR-7 was initially built as a survival rifle for U.S. Air Force pilots. It’s a .22 LR semi-automatic rifle that feeds from box magazines containing eight rounds.

Whether or not you know it, you’ve likely seen the gun in some form or another.

It has a very odd design, and this is due to the fact it’s a very early takedown rifle design. The barrel and receiver detach from the stock, and the stock is then used as a storage compartment for the receiver and barrel.

The entire design is toolless, compact, and lightweight. This gun weighs a mere 3.5 pounds and is very simple in design. It lacks any handguard, so the barrel will heat up after extended firing.

This rifle isn’t designed to be a high-volume plinker, but that doesn’t mean it won’t keep going and going.

With a 14-inch length of pull, it is excellent for adult-sized shooters. The gun is a blast to shoot and comes with two magazines. Eight rounds are more than enough for most situations, but extended magazines are available and are reasonably affordable.

The top of the receiver sports a short rail, but a mounted optic won’t allow the gun to be stored in the stock.

The gun is very lightweight and comfortable to shoot. It may be a 1950s design, but the overall design screams space age.

Plus, the use of a plastic stock means the internals of the rifle and the gun will be well protected from bounces and bumps while hiking and camping. The stock is sturdy and provides a very comfortable and easy grip when firing the weapon.

You can’t hold the rifle too far forward and must use the magazine well for a grip, but it isn’t bad. The light recoil and lightweight of the weapon make it comfortable to fire, even for an extended period of time.

The gun is called the Henry Survival rifle, and it has proven to be quite adept at its role.

Want more details on the Henry AR-7? Check out our full review here!

What’s your take on the AR-7? Rate it below!

3. Savage Model 42 Takedown

I’m a shotgunner at heart; I love shotguns and their versatility. They are great survival weapons, but this is a list about rifles, right? Well, what if I suggested a weapon that was both?

The Savage 42 weighs 6.1 pounds, but the compact version comes in at 4.65 pounds and both are takedowns that break into two pieces. It comes with its own Go Bag, which is a nice touch.

Best of all, the gun comes with one .410 barrel and a rifle barrel in either .22 LR or .22 Magnum.

This two-shot weapon is the ultimate game-getter. The bottom .410 barrel is a bit more potent than the top rimfire barrel, but the top barrel makes it easy to touch a target at a distance and gives you a precise option for medium-range shooting.

The bottom .410 barrel allows you to dispatch a variety of different game with buckshot, slugs, or birdshot. The combination of the two calibers gives you the perfect gun for collecting small game as well.

Best of all, it breaks down with the push of a single button and goes back together in an instant. The stock and furniture are mostly polymer, reducing the weight and making it easier to carry. This little gun utilizes a hammer-fired, single-action design and has a very crisp trigger.

The Savage Model 42 Compact is an excellent choice if you put a premium on versatility. It’s an affordable gun that will simply work every time while giving you options while using it.

4. TPS Arms M6 Takedown

The M6 Takedown is a classic survival firearm originally developed for the United States Airforce for pilot survival. While it might have come out of the 1950s, it’s still a viable option mainly because of its versatility.

I’m cheating a bit again with the M6. This is an article on survival rifles, and this isn’t just a survival rifle…it’s a rifle and shotgun.

TPS Arms recreates this classic survival rifle for a great price point with a few improvements.

For example, the takedown pin is an AR-style captured takedown pin that makes it easy to break the gun down for storage. Also, instead of just being stuck with .22 Hornet and .410, we get multiple options.

While the bottom barrel stays .410, the top barrel can accommodate .357 Magnum, .22 WMR, .17 HMR, .22 LR, .22 Hornet, or even two .410 barrels. There are tons of options, all of which are viable survival cartridges.

The .357 Magnum can take any medium game animal in North America, and the .410 can take down birds, squirrels, snakes, and other pests. However, a .22 LR allows you to carry 500 rounds in your cargo pocket.

Pick the right option for you and your environment, and the modern M6 rifle will serve you well.

Like the classic M6, the M6 Takedown Series from TPS Arms is super lightweight, fairly short, and separates in half for tossing in a backpack. The stock features a customizable storage compartment to fit a number of different rounds.

Additionally, the .410 barrel has interchangeable chokes, and you can outfit the modern variant with a scope rail for optical enhancement.

Not only are these guns faithful representatives of the classic M6 guns, but they improve upon the original design.

Best Folding Survival Rifles

5. Chiappa Little Badger

The Chiappa Little Badger is the first gun on the list due to how well it fits all of my standards.

It’s the lightest rifle on the list, likely the most affordable, and it is adorable. The Chiappa Little Badger is a folding rifle chambered in either .22 LR, .22 Magnum, or 17 HMR.

I own a .22 LR model, and it’s an enjoyable gun.

Chiappa’s Little Badger is a single-shot rifle with a wire stock and hardly anything but a small barrel, receiver, and wire stock. It weighs 2.9 pounds and comes with four short rails to attach accessories to. The small peep sights are quite adjustable and very easy to use.

The gun folds in half to be only roughly 17 inches long. It’s super thin and fits in a backpack with hardly any room taken up.

This gun even has a little plastic attachment to hold extra rounds. Admittedly, I found them a little too loose to hold ammo securely.

My .22 LR version is excellent, but the .22 Magnum variant will pack more of a punch. This would likely be the better choice for a survival rifle for its game-getting abilities.

The gun is very easy to operate — all you have to do is load the gun, close it up, cock the hammer, and pull the trigger.

Simplicity also means it’s not going to fail because you forgot to clean it. It’s not a rapid-fire weapon, but with well-aimed shots, you can quickly get dinner and kill off snakes, coyotes, and other pests.

The trigger isn’t great but is light and consistent. Its hammer is easy to cock, and the entire operation of the gun is simple. Don’t expect much of a cheek weld, and be aware the length of pull is very short. The rifle is easy to use for anyone, including kids.

The gun is just begging to be modded, and you can add a means to carry ammo, a knife, paracord, or whatever you want.

It’s less than $200, and even outside of a survival rifle, it’s a cool toy to play with. Also, the threaded barrel makes it very easy to suppress.

Want more single shots? Take a look at our round-up of the Best Single Shots on the market.

6. Kel-Tec Sub 2000

The Kel-Tec Sub 2000 is one of the few common, affordable, and reliable semi-auto centerfire guns I could find for this list.

This gun is a unique folding rifle that comes in pistol calibers, specifically .40 S&W and 9mm. The gun feeds from a wide variety of different pistol magazines from different manufacturers.

When folded in half, the Sub 2000 sports an overall length of only 16.25 inches. Unfolded, the rifle is still a short 30.5 inches. It weighs in at only 4.25 pounds and fits well into a standard backpack or even a messenger bag.

The Sub 2000 comes in both Gen 1 and Gen 2 models, and the various models can take Glock, S&W, Canik, Beretta 92/96 series, and Sig magazines.

It’s quite a bit more potent than the previously mentioned rimfires, making it a better dangerous animal gun and an excellent close-range gun for medium game.

A very simple blowback system means it is quite reliable. It does have more recoil than a standard carbine due to this system, but it is still easy to control.

The sights are ok — nothing special, but plenty usable out to 100 yards. Adding optics to the gun is tricky but doable.

If you need something to fend off animals like cougars, then the Sub 2000 will do it a lot better than any of the rimfire rifles on this list. While 9mm and .40 S&W wouldn’t be my first choice for cougars in a handgun, in a rifle, it is easy to shoot and easy to fire rapidly.

With the right defensive rounds, the gun will cause some serious damage to anything. I suggest a solid round, something like 147-grain 9mm JHP, or even a fancy hard cast load. A 180-grain .40 S&W load will deal with some hurt too.

See our articles on the Best 9mm Ammo and Best .40 Ammo for our favorite plinking and self-defense rounds.

Be sure to check out our complete hands-on review of the Kel-Tec Sub 2000!

Best AR-Style Survival Rifles

7. Aero Survival Rifle LTE – 9mm

A semi-automatic, AR-type PCC that breaks down with ease and weighs less than 4 pounds? Well, yeah, it exists and comes from a little company called TNW Firearms.

They’ve been producing takedown carbines in various calibers for years, but the Aero Survival LTE series reduces the weight to a light 3.95 pounds.

With it, you get a Glock magazine-fed, lightweight, takedown, semi-automatic carbine with a 16-inch barrel. It’s plain and stripped of everything but the basics.

However, it will launch 9mm pills fast and hard. When used with 147-grain JHPs, you have a weapon that can take medium-sized game at close range.

The semi-auto design allows for fast follow-up shots, which can be invaluable, and very few lightweight survival rifles offer that capability.

Shooters get a nice-sized optic rail and an M-LOK handguard, but that handguard is extremely short with just a few M-LOK slots. After adding an optic or light, you can still walk away with a weapon weighing less than six pounds.

It breaks down into two 17.25-inch-sized components for easy storage and carrying. Grab a few extended Glock mags, and you’ll be set for most threats inside 100 yards.

8. CMMG Banshee Mk57

I might be breaking the rules here, kind of. While the Mk57 is most commonly sold as a braced AR pistol, a short-barreled rifle variant is available. To fit under the 5-pound limit, you’ll need to grab the 5-inch barreled variant.

Like any standard AR-15, you can easily break the thing into two pieces and store them in a backpack.

The 5.7x28mm round fits neatly between a rifle and pistol cartridge, boasting flat-shooting performance out to 150 yards or so and excellent penetration.

This round is fairly smaller and lighter than most rifle and pistol rounds, but it’s an oddball that works well and works inside most shooters’ capabilities. The 5.7x28mm round is unusual but effective and well-suited for survival applications.

CMMG makes fantastic guns, and the Banshee is their short and light series.

This little fella offers you the modularity of the AR platform in a high-performance, lightweight caliber. It’s a premium-grade weapon with a superb trigger and M-LOK handguard and uses the FN Five-Seven magazines.

The CMMG Mk57 isn’t a cheap firearm by any means, but it offers you AR-15 controls in a very small and lightweight package.

Oh, and ammo isn’t cheap either, but it fills its own niche and might be one of the better choices for practical survival.

Final Thoughts

Keep in mind that most responsible hunters, hikers, and campers will never need it, but a good survival rifle is worth its weight in gold should you ever need it.

These choices are perfect for most budgets, are lightweight, and quite discrete. Although these may seem like basic survival rifles, be sure to check your local laws and the laws of anywhere you may consider camping to ensure they are legal.

What do you prefer as your go-to survival gun? Let us know in the comments below! Don’t forget the rest of your SHTF Gear or even Best Trunk Guns or just the plain ole Best Rifles, period.

Whether you are new to hunting altogether, or are a hunting mentor to a beginner, squirrel, rabbit, pheasant, dove, goose, antelope and bear are the easiest animals to pursue for the novice.

The seven animals on this list all find themselves here for various reasons. They may be easier to locate than other game or easier to get in close to. Some of these animals require little more than an armed hunter afield to harvest, while others may require more effort or different skill sets to acquire. Let’s take a closer look.

Squirrel

Squirrel hunting is the quintessential beginner game species because they are everywhere, can be located relatively easily, can be hunted with different methods and hunted with small caliber rifles or small gauge shotguns which are both easier on new hunters.

Many seasoned hunters have cut their teeth chasing squirrels through oak forests, honing their accuracy with low-recoiling rimfire cartridges. Hunting squirrels also teaches new hunters other skills necessary to move on to larger game, such as walking through forests as quietly as possible as well as identifying camouflaged game.

Squirrels are often hunted with a spot and stalk method, where a hunter will begin by finding a squirrel rummaging the forest floor for hard mast such as acorns, or moving among the branches of the forest canopy. Squirrels can also be easily drawn into a bait pile, as hunters in states that allow baiting can attest. In this scenario, the hunter may simply still hunt a bait pile and wait for the squirrel to come in to feed, often taking them unaware.

Pheasant

Pheasants find themselves on this list primarily because they can be found in as many as 40 states, and 21 states actually stock pheasants for hunting purposes. Pheasant can be hunted with pointing dogs, but can also be done with a few friends pushing a field to flush the pheasant into the air. Pheasants are taken with shotguns, allowing for a spread of shot to help hit moving birds.

Practice with clays to hone your abilities for taking moving game. Pheasants are medium sized birds and your first flushed pheasant will present a challenging and exciting quarry. Pheasants are also very tasty table fare, adding a strong incentive to your hunt.

Mourning Dove

If the state you hunt in offers a dove season, you are in for a satisfying and educational begining hunt. Doves can be hunted by pushing fields and flushing the birds, or still hunting over a field and simply waiting for the doves to fly by as they move frequently throughout the day.

Mourning doves are small birds and are generally taken with light recoiling shotgun gauges. Though their smaller stature presents a challenging shot, they can be readily harvested with prior range practice. An upside to hunting mourning doves is the quality of their meat, which is delicious. A small group of hunters can take numerous doves, and a cookout is likely to follow your hunt.

Geese

Another migratory bird that beginning hunters can successfully harvest are the different geese species that populate North America. Geese are larger birds that generally fly in flocks, offering multiple, ample-sized targets to the hunter. An added incentive, Goose breast is a tasty meat that hunters will enjoy baked, grilled or fried.

Geese can be problematic for farm owners, who are more likely to allow access to their farms for hunters hoping to harvest these pesky birds. Geese are generally decoyed and called in to the hidden hunter who can take easier shots as the birds begin their descent to the decoy spread. Since geese are generally hunted over fields, retrieving dogs are not necessary, unlike ducks hunted over water.

Rabbit

Like squirrels, rabbits are everywhere, can be harvested using multiple techniques, and are generally taken with lighter recoiling firearms. Most rabbit species are considered excellent table fare, offering a nice reward at the end of a hunt.

Rabbits are generally harvested during a drive, either with dogs or simply with hunting partners but may also be taken using a spot and stalk method. The lighter recoiling shotguns or rimfire rifles are less daunting to beginning hunters, and moving through forest trails and agriculture fields keeps younger hunters engaged.

Antelope

If you live in a state with a healthy Antelope (Pronghorn) population, you have likely seen them grazing the flatlands. Antelope have excellent vision and are the fastest land animal in North America, but because they spend so much time out in the open, they can readily be harvested by a rifle hunter. The trick is to get as close as you can without spooking the antelope before taking a shot.

Using a spot and stalk method on antelope can teach beginning hunters about wind and how to move without detection. Antelope are medium sized game that do not require the hardest hitting rifle cartridges, allowing for newer hunters to be more accurate. Antelope is also a tasty game species.

Black Bear

Black bears are the largest and most dangerous species on this list, but can be readily brought into close range when hunting over bait piles. Not all states allow baiting, so know your regulations, but if baiting is on the table so may black bear. Be sure to cook bear meat thoroughly since, like pork, bear meat often contains a parasite called trichinosis which can survive if the meat is undercooked.

Larger game means larger caliber rifle for both ethical and efficacy reasons, so practice with the rifle you intend to take afield to ensure a successful and rewarding hunt. Remember, taking a bear at close range over bait is possible, but bears are heavy, so plan on having a friend or two ready to help break down and pack out your harvest.

Honorable Mentions:

Turkey, duck and coyote all deserve consideration as easy animals for beginning hunters.

Turkey

Turkey hunting is generally done by the individual, not in groups. If you are new to hunting and have not yet found hunting partners, turkey hunting is a solid option for a successful, solo hunt. Hunted with a shotgun and generally decoyed and called, there are some skills to learn to harvest turkey. The food quality of turkey makes these skills worth learning.

Duck

Duck species can be found all over North America, and many duck species are excellent on the dinner plate. Ducks are usually decoyed and called over water, generally necessitating a retrieving dog, and are fast on the wing. These attributes make duck hunting somewhat challenging for the beginning hunter, though this is mitigated by their numbers and range across North America.

Coyote

Not generally harvested for their culinary excellence, coyotes are still moderately easy game for new hunters based on their habitat range. Coyotes can be found in every state except Hawaii. Coyotes can be driven, hunted using spot and stalk methods but most commonly called in, baited or a combination of the two.

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Creating a backyard space takes planning and effort, so it’s a shame that you can’t use it as often when temperatures drop. If you’re tired of letting winter’s icy grasp drive you inside, a kerosene heater could be a solution. A kerosene heater on a patio or deck can keep you and your family warm so you can enjoy the great outdoors. These cold weather wonders are available in different types, sizes, and capacities. Learn why the following models are considered among the best kerosene heaters on the market.

1. BEST OVERALL: DuraHeat Portable Convection Kerosene Heater
2. RUNNER-UP: Sengoku Kerosene Heater, White
3. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Sengoku HeatMate 10,000-BTU Indoor/Outdoor Kerosene
4. UPGRADE PICK: Dyna-Glo Delux KFA80DGD Kerosene Forced air Heater
5. BEST MIDSIZE: Mr. Heater MH75KTR kerosene heater

How We Chose the Best Kerosene Heaters

Since there are multiple types of kerosene heaters on the market, we provide a list of recommendations that covers as many options as possible. Our top picks include a selection of the best forced-air, radiant, and portable kerosene heaters for shoppers to choose from. Depending on what you’re looking for, our list can provide solutions for smaller areas, all the way up to a powerful 80,000 BTU heater that can heat up areas of up to 1,900 square feet.

During our research, we made sure to only include top brands that use the highest quality materials. Most importantly, we ensure that each of our top recommendations include common safety features such as tip-over and high-temperature shutoff.

Our Top Picks

Kerosene heaters aren’t new technology, but some improvements have been made to safety and efficiency, so keep the considerations detailed above in mind while comparing products. This list of some of the best kerosene heaters on the market helps streamline the shopping process.

Jump to Our Top Picks

What to Consider When Choosing the Best Kerosene Heater

Kerosene heaters produce plenty of heat, which can make them ideal for outdoor applications. Kerosene is a relatively inexpensive fuel, so burning a kerosene heater on “high” in an outdoor space may be more affordable than using another type of heater. When shopping for a kerosene heater, keep in mind their specifications, such as tank size, heat type, and the all-important safety features.

Type

Kerosene heaters are available in various models, each of which produces a different type of heat. Some are more suitable for specific applications than others. Note: All kerosene heaters run on a liquid fuel, which can be messy. If that’s not a task you want to undertake, other non-electric heaters use propane, natural gas, and easier-to-manage fuels.

• Convective kerosene heaters use convection to heat a space. They produce warm air that rises and pushes cold air down toward the heater. The heater then draws in the cold air and heats it, which rises and pushes colder air down again. This produces a very even heat within a space, and they run quietly.
• Radiant kerosene heaters produce localized heat, essentially warming the objects in front of them. They don’t do a particularly good job at heating a larger space evenly, but they’re ideal for targeting a specific area, such as a table or sitting area.
• Forced air kerosene heaters (also known as torpedo heaters and salamanders) heat air and force it into the area, much like a furnace. They’re suitable for heating large outdoor tents and gazebos, but they can be quite loud.
• Portable kerosene heaters come in both convection, forced air, and radiant models, though the latter type is the most common. These heaters are small and easy to transport. Take it outside to refill the fuel tank, which helps minimize potential mess or dangerous accidents.

Tank Size

Kerosene is a liquid fuel, so tank sizes are measured in gallons or liters. The ideal tank size is relative, so consider these factors:

• Heat output: Large heaters burn more fuel, so they need a larger tank.
• Portability: Smaller heaters need to be light and portable, so they have a smaller tank.
• Fixed vs. removable: Fixed tanks are usually larger, while removable tanks must be small and manageable.

In general, larger wheeled kerosene heaters have fuel tanks that hold up to 15 gallons (roughly 56 liters) of fuel, while smaller models may hold only 1 or 2 two gallons (about 7 to 8 liters).

Heating Capacity

Kerosene heaters also come in a variety of outputs, which are measured in BTUs (British Thermal Units). The higher the number of BTUs, the more heat a heater can produce.

Smaller heaters that produce heat within the 10,000 to 25,000 BTU range are ideal for smaller rooms, patios, or porches. Depending on the model, they can heat between 300 and 1,000 square feet. Midsize heaters (roughly 50,000 to 75,000 BTUs) warm spaces between 1,000 and 2,000 square feet.

Larger models—typically forced hot air—can pump a lot of hot air throughout a space. These heaters, which sometimes produce more than 150,000 BTUs, work well for large backyard parties and semi-enclosed tents.

Efficiency

Anytime energy is a factor, efficiency must be considered when choosing the product. Since kerosene heaters burn fossil fuels, make sure the model you choose is efficient and wastes as little fuel as possible.

Many kerosene heater manufacturers list their products’ efficiency rating, describing it in percentages. The best kerosene heaters burn around 99 percent of the fuel, passing less unburnt fuel through the exhaust.

But for a heater to work efficiently, it must be the correct size for the space. A 10,000-BTU heater may never heat a large garage, for example, which means fuel is wasted. Heating a small patio might not require a 135,000-BTU heater, as it will burn more fuel than necessary to keep the space comfortable.

Run Time

Run time is directly related to the size of the fuel tank, the heater’s output, and its efficiency, the most important of which is tank size. The larger the tank, the more fuel it uses, so the longer the heater will run. A heater that runs for several hours without refueling is a convenience worth shopping for, but manufacturers aren’t always forthcoming with this information.

Some of the best kerosene heaters can provide heat on a low setting for up to 12 hours before running out of fuel.

Safety Features

Kerosene heaters have the potential to be dangerous. If left unattended or used incorrectly, they can start a fire or cause burns. Many heaters have an overheat switch that shuts down the unit if it gets too hot. Also, compact kerosene heaters can tip over quite easily if inadvertently bumped. An anti-tip switch shuts off the heater if it tips over.

Moreover, any machine that burns fuel—kerosene, gasoline, wood, or any other type—also produces carbon monoxide. The best kerosene heaters are extremely efficient and designed to emit very little carbon monoxide, which makes them safe even for indoor use. However, when used indoors, it’s a good idea to install a functioning carbon monoxide detector as a safety precaution.

FAQs

If you have concerns about running a fossil fuel-burning heater in an enclosed space or want more info about kerosene heaters, check out the answers to the common questions below.

Q. How big of a kerosene heater do I need?

This depends on the space you’re heating. In most cases, a 50,000-BTU heater is effective at heating a small porch, while a 100,000-plus-BTU unit might be necessary for a large open space such as a wedding tent or barn.

Q. How many square feet will a kerosene heater heat?

The amount of space a kerosene heater heats depends on BTU output. Low-output heaters, in the 25,000-BTU range, may heat 1,000 square foot spaces, while 135,000-BTU units can heat over 3,000 square feet.

Q. Do kerosene heaters give off carbon monoxide?

Yes, carbon monoxide is a by-product of the combustion process. Generally speaking, these heaters produce levels considered safe, but users should have a functioning carbon monoxide detector when running a heater indoors.

Q. Is it safe to run a kerosene heater all night?

Kerosene heaters are not as safe as a furnace or boiler, but they could be the only heat source in a power outage. While these heaters may be considered safer than sleeping without heat in subzero temperatures, you should never leave a kerosene heater unattended.

Why Trust Bob Vila

Bob Vila has been America’s Handyman since 1979. As the host of beloved and groundbreaking TV series, including This Old House and Bob Vila’s Home Again, he popularized and became synonymous with “do it yourself” home improvement.

Over the course of his decades-long career, Bob Vila has helped millions of people build, renovate, repair, and live better each day—a tradition that continues today with expert yet accessible home advice. The Bob Vila team distills need-to-know information into project tutorials, maintenance guides, tool 101s, and more. These home and garden experts then thoroughly research, vet, and recommend products that support homeowners, renters, DIYers, and professionals in their to-do lists.

In this article, I’m going to show you seven quick and delicious ways to add that all-important fat to your ground beef.

Let’s get straight to the juicy bit.

How do you add fat to lean ground beef? The best way to add fat to lean ground beef is to use beef back fat (tallow). Ensure the tallow and beef are cold before mixing them together. An easy fix is to grate butter or cheese into the beef. Or mix in a fattier meat like sausage or chorizo.

Ways to add fat to ground beef

You can add fat to your ground beef in a variety of forms. Here are the best things to add:

• Beef fat (tallow)
• Bacon or bacon fat
• Butter
• Chorizo
• Sausages
• Cheese
• A fattier type of mince

Keep reading to find out more about each option.

Add beef fat

This is my personal favorite. Adding beef fat to lean ground beef can transform it into something truly magical.

The trick to using beef fat is to use BACK FAT specifically.

Why?

• Back fat is more ‘buttery’ and has a melt in your mouth texture VS regular beef fat.
• Many butchers give it away for FREE. And even if your local butcher decides to sell it, it won’t be expensive.

How to add beef fat (tallow) to ground beef

Assuming you’ve got your tallow ready to go, you’ll need either a food processor or a dedicated meat grinder for the next part.

1. Ensure both the tallow and beef are COLD before adding to your food processor. I recommend placing them in the freezer for around 20 minutes before your ready to process them. If the meat is too warm it will smear and you’ll end up with mushy ground beef.
2. The same applies to your grinding equipment. Place it in the freezer at least one hour before you need to use it.
3. Work out how much tallow you need to get the desired lean to fat ratio. If you’re unsure, skip to this section where I cover it in detail.
4. Grind together the ground beef and the tallow just until they’re both properly mixed. Don’t overdo this step. Too much handling can also result in a mushy texture.

It’s that simple.

If you don’t have a grinder or food processor at home, you may have some luck asking your butcher if they’d be willing to work in the fat for you.

Add bacon or bacon grease

Bacon is here to save the day. You have three options when it comes to adding bacon to ground beef:

• Grind raw bacon and mix with the ground beef before cooking/making patties
• Add cooked bacon to your ground beef
• Use the bacon fat/drippings

Mixing ground (or finely chopped) raw bacon with your beef before cooking will create a deliciously fatty and flavorsome patty.

But it means you’ll have to cook the burger ALL the way through. You don’t want any raw bits of bacon lurking in the middle of your burger.

Like your burger to have a bit of pink?

Cook the bacon BEFORE adding it to the ground beef.

Or use the leftover bacon grease – which by the way tastes AMAZING. You can mix a bit into the burger, or simply cook the burger using the fat. Learn how to collect and store it here.

Add sausage

Sausages are a great way to make your ground beef more juicy and fatty. And it’s super easy.

You don’t need any additional equipment to mix them together.

Take the skin off the sausage, and then mix the meat and ground beef together in a bowl.

Voila! Problem solved.

Just like with bacon, you’ll need to make sure that you cook the burgers all the way through if you add raw sausage.

Add chorizo

Chorizo is yet another insanely delicious way to add flavor, fat, and life to your ground beef. As the burgers cook, the chorizo oil will seep out into the meat. YUM.

I keep it simple when adding chorizo. If the beef is 90% lean, I recommend adding 1 part chorizo for 3 parts ground beef.

Remember: cooking is an art, not a science. You won’t do any harm by tweaking the above ratio to your liking.

Psst… make sure all your guests like chorizo before going full steam ahead with this option.

Add cheese

No good burger is complete without a hefty portion of cheese to go with it.

So why not add some cheese into the beef instead of on top of it?

Adding cheese is a foolproof way to add fat and oozy-juicy-ness (is that even a word?). All without needing to add any other meats.

Here are a few of my personal favorite additions:

• Blue cheese
• Feta cheese
• Cream cheese

Simply add a generous helping of your favorite cheese into the raw ground beef and gently mix by hand.

If you’re using a solid cheese I recommend cutting it into small chunks or use a cheese grater.

Cold cheese works best for this task. I’d even go as far as freezing the cheese for 20-30 minutes before mixing it into the raw beef.

Add butter

Let’s not forget about butter. Adding butter to ground beef elevates the beef’s flavor profile while not adding any other distractions (flavors). Butter also adds moisture and tenderness to the beef.

And it’s very likely that you have some handy right now.

How to add butter to ground beef

1. Dice or grate the butter into small pieces (too big and you’ll have pockets of air in the beef once the butter melts).
2. Ensure the butter is cold (like ice cold) before adding to the beef. I recommend freezing both the butter and beef for about 30 minutes to make sure they’re at a similar temperature.
3. Gently work the butter pieces into the ground beef and form individual patties. A light touch is crucial here to prevent the ground beef from turning mushy.

Mix in a fattier mince

This option might seem obvious, but sometimes we miss the obvious options!

You don’t have to stick to using one type of beef.

If you have an old pack of 15% mince (pork or beef) in hanging around in your freezer, take some of this and mix it into your 5% mince to increase the fat content.

You can go with 50:50 if you want to significantly increase the fat levels, or just add a handful. It’s totally up to you.

How much fat should I add to my ground beef?

I’ve created a handy table to help you calculate how much fat to add to your ground beef.

Let’s go through a quick example to illustrate how it works.

You have 10% fat ground beef (90% lean) and decide you want to make burgers with 30% fat (70% lean).

Now you have to match the type of ground beef you have (in the columns) with your desired ground beef type (in the rows).

To turn 10% fat ground beef into 30% fat ground beef, you’ll need to add 22% of the total weight of your original ground beef in pure fat (e.g. tallow, bacon fat, butter).

Confused? Lets go through a real life example:

If you have 2lbs of 10% fat ground beef, you’ll need to add 7oz (0.44lbs) of fat to make a 30% lean mix. 0.44 lbs is 22% of 2 lbs.

If you aren’t interested in being so scientific, you can approximate! Your burgers will still be delicious.

Tips for making lean ground beef juicy

Here are a few final tips to help you get maximum juiciness and tenderness from your ground beef:

• Don’t overwork the meat. Overworking the beef makes it tough and lifeless. Treat it gently and you’ll be rewarded.
• Cooking burgers? Just flip them ONCE. Pretty much the same logic as #1. Also, avoid the urge to press the patties too much with your spatula when cooking (unless you’re planning to smash them!).
• The fattier the beef, the more heat you need. Generally speaking, leaner cuts should be cooked on a medium flame, whereas high-fat cuts should be cooked on a high flame. Adjust depending on the amount of fat you decide to add.

Related: How To Make Fine Ground Beef

“Survival Bows And Who Should Consider Owning One” was the topic of my previous article and we talked about exactly what a survival bow was good for and where they excelled in the world of archery. We even mentioned that such bows may slowly start to be renamed the “compact modern longbow” and as such form a new segment of the archery market more widely accepted than a weapon thought to be useful purely as a survival tool.

Today however we deal with one of the most widely misconstrued perceptions of what makes a good survival bow. In order to do this we need to take a look at the industry benchmark for what is believed to be a good bow and that is of course no other than the compound bow.

We also need to look at a few other options to compare to and this is where more traditional bows such as the recurve bow, the longbow and the compact modern longbow come into play.

I have many a time come across forums filled with pages and pages of people discussing (and sometimes even arguing) about what the best bow for a survival or SHTF situation would be. There is a somewhat clear divide in opinion on what the answer to this question is and it generally comes from two very distinct camps of people.

The first camp is a camp of people who seem to be more open minded. People who like to question things and make their own opinions based on extensive research and personal experience, as well as the actual experience of others. They ask questions, debate with fair reasoning and seem to have experienced the use of many types of bows and equipment suited to the outdoors. They seem to be more experienced in the outdoors in general and have a wealth of knowledge of what it means to be an outdoorsman. It is this camp that seem to be more open minded toward considering a more traditional bow such as a recurve bow or compact modern longbow for a survival or SHTF situation.

The second camp of people seem to be more set in their thinking. They seem to be more biased in their approach to the debate and almost exclusively seem to have little real world outdoors experience other than their annual 200 yard walk to their tree-stand for the yearly whitetail hunt. Added to this they deem any bow other than a compound bow to be substandard, almost without exclusion and with further prodding it normally comes out that that is all they have ever shot.

It is no wonder that newcomers to the world of “survival archery” can be so confused when it comes to choosing a bow for a survival or SHTF situation and its time to put some thoughts on the table and take a look at the pros and cons of what makes a good survival bow and then discuss which type of bow may be better between a more traditional bow and a compound bow. For the purposes of this article we are going to look specifically at takedown bows (recurves, longbows and compact modern longbows) vs compound bows:

Let’s first take a look at what attributes make for an ideal survival bow. Survival bows need to be:

• Powerful enough to hunt game the size of deer and antelope.
• Accurate enough to take small game such as rabbit, squirrel and medium to large birds.
• Durable enough to last a lifetime
• Easy to maintain
• Easy to transport and free up your hands for other tasks or to carry other equipment such as rifles for self defense.
• Light enough to allow for carry of other necessary equipment
• Simple enough to require no or minimal tools
• Adaptable enough to allow for multiple users or unit members both left and right handed

Those who are trained and experienced in the outdoors in a wide variety of skillsets including survival, hunting, tactical, backpacking, etc will quickly appreciate ALL of the points above. You see a survival or SHTF situation would incorporate most if not all of these skillsets and not just a hunting skillset. That is why I am kicking off this “debate” with a list of “What would make for an ideal survival bow?”

Now let’s move on to compare takedown bows and compound bows against this list of points.

The Compound Bow definitely has plenty of power and is as accurate as bows come, but when it comes to durability one has to question them by considering the amount of moving parts involved as well as just how “fragile” these parts are when it comes to the bow taking knocks and bumps when spending extended time off the beaten path. Personally if I had to make it through a SHTF situation I would not feel terribly comfortable putting it through even the smallest amount of hardship I may encounter on my journey, especially if I wanted it to last a lifetime.

Ease of maintenance is also a big issue when it comes to a SHTF scenario. One usually requires special tools and jigs to restring and maintain a bow and you certainly won’t be able to carry those around with you. Sure you may have these at home, but if you had to move you would have a problem.

Ease of transport is another big disadvantage to compound bows. Unless you are strapping them to your backpack (which increases the risk of damaging them) you will either need to leave it at a basecamp or carry it in your hand and that not only reduces the tasks you can accomplish and where you can travel, but it will certainly become a nuisance at some stage. Imagine trying to move through thick underbrush or climb up banks or swim across a river. Certainly not ticking the box of easy to transport.

From a tools perspective you will be fine so long as you don’t need to change or maintain anything, but scene as this is a bow that is needed to last a lifetime, you will at some stage need those tools and as mentioned above you will at some stage have issues.

And finally, the last point of allowing for multiple users. A compound bow is great in that it allows for various poundages to be dialled in on the same bow. Which is great right? The drawback is that it allows for either a left or a right handed archer, not both and therefore cannot be used in an ambidextrous way. Luckily most archers are right handed so this point is less important than others above.

The Takedown Bow segment has three main categories in the form of the takedown recurve, the takedown longbow and the compact modern longbow such as the SAS Tactical Survival Bow and the SAS Recon Folding Survival Bow (soon to launch at the writing of this article) from Survival Archery Systems.

Each of these 3 types of takedown bows has its own unique attributes which we shall summarize briefly against each of the points on our list.

Bow power is something that is misunderstood when it comes to actual takedown ability. Native North Americans were harvesting bison, elk, moose and deer with bows in the 30#-40# range and it all comes down to arrow placement and blood-loss. If you hit your quarry with any bow 45# and up in the vitals it is pretty much game over. There is enough penetration power to cause enough blood-loss that the quarry will go down. What is important thereafter is your ability to track the quarry after having given it enough time to bleed-out. So takedown bows are a good choice for a survival or SHTF situation for sure.

The accuracy of takedown bows whilst not as good as that of a compound, is generally good enough for small game if you have put in the practice. Don’t think you can just stuff a takedown bow in your bag, whip it out and shoot a squirrel at 30 yards when you get hungry; you will learn a hard lesson. Takedown bows, unless fitted with a well sighted sighting system take practice to learn to shoot with an instinctive style. Other than that they are accurate enough to do the job and thus tick the box.

Durability of takedown bows with respect to real world abuse is orders better than that of a compound bow as you typically only have 3 major parts securely bolted together. The riser and two limbs. Wooden limbs and wooden risers typical of many takedown recurves and longbows are not as durable as composite limbs such as those used on compact modern longbows such as the SAS Survival Bow range, so choose carefully. Composite materials are not only stronger than wood, but can weather out the elements such as rain, sunshine, heat and cold and generally last much, much longer. Wooden products require much care whilst composite materials can take substantially more abuse.

Aluminum is also a great riser material as it has very stable mechanical properties that engineers can use to accurately develop bows to ensure they are working well below material fatigue limits, thereby ensuring your bow will last a lifetime. This is important to remember; if a manufacturer does not claim to have designed a bow using engineering principles then beware, because it normally means designs are more based on touchy-feely shape decisions rather than on structural integrity through material selection and detailed analysis.

Ease of maintenance is up next and again, takedown bows require very little maintenance and just a tool or two at most. Wood certainly requires maintenance to keep it in good condition, but composite limbs and aluminum risers require little to no maintenance at all. You also don’t need special tools for compact modern longbows such as the SAS bows, but for recurves and longbows you will generally need a stringer and an allen key or two.

When it comes to multiple users takedown bows generally cannot account for different poundage needs from users. You are pretty much stuck with one poundage unless you are carrying spare limbs around with you. Recurves and longbows with cutouts restrict left and right hand usage with the same bow, but compact modern longbows with non-cutout shapes such as that on SAS Survival Bows allow for both left and right hand usage by simply swapping the bow between hands.

Lastly, let’s talk about transport ability and weight. This is where the big gamechanger comes in when it comes to choosing a bow for survival. Takedown bows are all comparatively light enough for easy transport when you have other gear you need to ruck around. From a packability point of view they are even better, because they can fit into large backpacks which not only helps protect them, but get them out of your hand. Compact modern longbows are the most compact of the lot and can even fit into one-day packs if they are shorter than the magic number of 21″.

Straight limb bows such as longbows and compact modern longbows pack down much better than recurve bows do and take up much less space. Recurve and longbow limbs are usually quite a bit longer than compact modern longbow limbs so are only compatible with very large backpacks, but all takedown bows are much more suited than a compound bow to a SHTF scenario.

This is super, super important to understand when making a decision on buying a bow for survival. Skilled and experienced outdoorsmen with all the skills we spoke about earlier will tell you that having a bow that can easily fit in a backpack is pretty much the crux of your decision. Why, you ask? Well its like what my dad used to tell me when I was a kid trying to do stuff in the workshop and I had a whole bunch of tools I was trying to use, “Put that down and use both hands boy.” He was right and it comes down to freeing your hands up. It makes almost everything you do so much easier.

Like carrying a rifle if you are in a tactical survival situation for instance. Or how about dragging your bike rack deer back to camp? Climbing, swimming, hand-to-hand combat, running with a pack; the list goes on.

Having the ability to get your bow out the way is in my opinion THE most important attribute of a bow for survival and this is exactly why Survival Archery Systems developed its patented SAS Tactical and Recon Folding Survival Bows. They not only pack down very, very compact, but they are the only bow on the market that has a solution for the transport and protection of your takedown arrows. Our customer’s feedback speaks for itself and the number of repeat sales purchased for friends and family seals our opinion on why we believe that the SAS Survival Bows should be your bow of choice if you are looking for a compact, silent bow for survival that will not only last a lifetime but will do the job you need it to do, each and every time.

Well I hope that helps you in your decision in which bow to choose.

To get more info and get yourself one of the very popular SAS Survival Bows for your bugout or survival bag click this link now – https://www.survivalarcherysystems.com/products/survival_bow.

Walleye, walleye, walleye!

The best walleye fishing in the world…

That is how I describe where I live to people I cross paths with when I’m traveling. Growing up in the Kenora area, around Lake of the Woods, I’ve been spoiled with fantastic walleye fishing my whole life. Since I was a little kid, walleye have been my favourite species to catch through the ice because the action is always reliable, they are the best fish we have to eat and we catch plenty of big ones.

Nearly all of the resorts that stay open through the winter across the Sunset Country Region will be able to put you on some top-notch walleye fishing. Here are a few of my top tips.

Where to catch walleyes through the ice

Across Northwest Ontario, we have a variety of different types of lakes that hold excellent populations of walleyes. Some are shallow and tannic-colored waters, and others are clear, deep-water lakes, with a variety of waters in between. Excellent walleye fishing exists across the region so how do you choose the best place for your ice-fishing adventure?

If you have visited us here in the open water season, does your favourite resort offer ice fishing? They could be a good place to start. The next consideration might be your transportation options. Snowmobiles or ATVs offer access to remote locations so you can find your own hot spots.

Drive-to-vehicle access is available on some waters, where ice roads allow you to drive right to your fishing spot. The availability of ice roads could be a discussion with whoever you book your trip with. Some resorts will rent snowmobiles, which might be a good way to go if you don’t own one. They are fun to drive and can really open up the doors for fishing opportunities.

The season is open from freeze-up until April 15. Some years we’re able to stay on the ice right up to the 15th, other years the ice is done by the end of March. Like with some of the other species, my favourite times to be on the ice are early and late in the season. Early on, it’s easy to get around without a lot of snow on the ice, and getting the first crack at some of the humps and points that are good year after year results in some great fishing.

Walleye spawn shortly after ice-out around creek mouths or in shallow bays and predictably, they show up in front of these areas in March every year for the last few weeks of the ice season. I like to focus my efforts on structures like humps and points in front of these areas and if they don’t exist, walleyes can be caught on flats just out from the first good drop into deeper water. In some of the shallow walleye lakes, particularly some of the remote lakes, we’ll catch walleyes extremely shallow late in the season, sometimes as shallow as three to five feet. When you set the hook, they’ll just come flying up the hole.

Earlier in the season, focus on main-lake humps, points, and flats. A lot of the same spots that are good in the summer are also good in the winter, you might just have to drop out and fish a little bit deeper. Because our walleye fishing is so good across the region, I have a five-minute rule for the holes that I fish. Of course, there are days when you can set up shop in a shelter and wait for the fish to come to you. That can be relaxing, you can share some good fellowship with your buddies and hey, we get real winter so some days you have to hide out inside because it’s so cold.

When I go for fun, I pick the nicer weather days and hole hop outside. If I jig in a hole for five minutes and don’t at least mark a fish, I’m moving to the next hole. Sometimes small adjustments in depth can make a big difference. Sometimes you’ll get a hole where you’re right over the top of a ledge or sharp drop and those are never as good. It’s good to be close to the edge, but a flat bottom is always the best for walleyes, where they can creep along and find your bait. The flats also allow the fish to congregate together as well.

How to catch walleyes through the ice

For the past twenty years, I’ve seldom used anything but a spoon for fishing walleyes through the ice. My go-to has always been a Northland Buck-Shot Spoon, popular with walleye anglers across the ice belt. I’ll always tip my spoon with a frozen minnow head and it never lets me down.

The traditional jig tipped with a minnow still works fine, I just think it’s more fun watching a spoon on my sonar unit and figuring out how to trick walleyes into biting it when they come in for a look. Some days, aggressive jigging gets bites, other days, you need to shake your spoon in a subtle manner. Figuring out how to trigger them to bite is the fun part. On some of the shallower, inland lakes, a jig tipped with a live minnow, hooked through the tail can be the best presentation. Something to consider if you fish in one of those types of lakes.

On the bigger waters, however, jigging with spoons or swimming jigs is tough to beat. Most of the time walleyes are going to be found near the bottom so electronics are not mandatory to catch fish but they will always help you put a few more on the ice. It’s good to know when walleyes are moving around beneath your hole and every once in a while, you’re going to see fish pass by that are slightly above the bottom so you can bring your bait up a bit so they can see it. More often than not, these suspended walleyes are aggressive and bite immediately.

If you are coming to visit us for a fishing trip you should also know that the “prime-time” bite is exceptional on most waters. We call that last hour of daylight “prime-time” because the walleyes almost always bite a lot better than they do the rest of the day. In fact, on some of the clear water walleye fisheries, it’s tough to catch fish during the day, then they go nuts just before dark. If you are coming for a trip, don’t be afraid to stay out there late and catch that “prime-time” bite.

Some waters in Sunset Country have special regulations for walleye fishing, including size restrictions, no-fishing areas, and bait restrictions so it’s always good to consult the Ontario Sport Fishing Regulations before you hit the ice. If you stay with a resort, they will be able to direct you on specific regulations on their waters.

We look forward to seeing you on the ice in Sunset Country this winter.

Bay of Green Bay, Michigan/Wisconsin

This diverse habitat that holds a good number of fish and plenty of 30-inch-class walleye, with the action picking up in mid-summer. This is a big fishery with weed edges on the west shoreline, rock bars on the east, and many islands and shoals that hold fish. This diversity means a variety of presentations where trolling or casting for big fish, can be successful. Good launch points include Oconto on the west side and Egg Harbor to the east, depending on the direction of the wind.

Lake Erie, Ohio

Port Clinton, Ohio, is called the “Walleye Capital of the World” for good reason. It’s the main access point to the tremendous walleye fishery in the western basin of Lake Erie, which may hold more walleye per acre than any body of water on Earth. In early season locals jig fish for spawning males, but July is traditionally the hottest month of the season with a strong casting bite on reefs and consistent limit catches when trolling in open water. The action starts to slow by mid-August.

Lake of the Woods, Minnesota/Ontario/Manitoba

Head for the border if it’s a trophy walleye you’re after. “You will always have a chance to catch a legitimate 10-pound walleye on Lake of the Woods,” said Thelen. “It holds an outstanding food source to help those fish grow, and the lake is so big the fish don’t see a lot of lures.” There is plenty of elbow room. The lake is 70 miles long and wide and contains more than 14,552 islands and 65,000 miles of shoreline, so there’s a diverse habitat that offers good fishing all season. Jig early, pull spinners in mid-summer, try crank baits late summer and jigs again in the fall. Early and late season the fish follow the shiner migration to the Rainy River which enters the lake at Four Mile Bay on the southeast shore of the lake. This protected water usually produces good fishing and the area is home to a number of family vacation resorts.

Lake Bemidji, Minnesota

This 11-square-mile lake in north central Minnesota, part of the origin drainage of the Mississippi River, is now Thelen’s home water, so he knows the score. “From May to June there’s heavy local pressure on the lake, but for some reason later in the season, nobody’s there,” said Thelen. “In July and August, the fishing is great.” A weed bed runs along the entire shoreline, and by mid-summer Thelen says that’s where the fish are lurking, and why you won’t see them on electronics. A spinner with a 3/8-ounce weight pulled along the edge of the weeds in 6 to 8 feet of water will coax keepers to 20-inch walleyes out of the weeds. Bemidji is another great resort town with activities for the entire family.

Devils Lake, North Dakota

The season opens at ice-out, so if you’ve got the itch to fish walleye in April this is one place to go. Just be prepared for safe boating on cold water and cool weather. Issues with flooding in the 1990s have been mitigated by an outlet that opened in 2005, which helped stabilize the water level on this 330-square-mile lake. The best walleye fishing is usually from April to June, fishing shallow early and deeper later in the season. The lake features lots of structure that holds fish, from trees and old roads to submerged farmsteads. Parts of the lake can be shallow and anglers need to use caution and watch for debris and old poles just below the surface. Local guides fish the north shore of the lake in early season, and transition to back bays of the main basin during the summer, fishing deeper structure in late summer. The city of Devils Lake on the north shore is the main hub of activity, but there are lodging options around the lake. Wherever you fish this season remember that a local Alumacraft dealer can be a valuable source of needed supplies and local knowledge. Get out and share your adventure photo by tagging #fishingfreedom.

Even the best archers started somewhere. If you’re just starting your archery journey, some basic shooting tips for beginners will go a long way in helping you to enjoy your new hobby. While shooting with experienced archers is the best way to improve, that’s not always a possibility. Follow these tips from the expert Staff Shooters at 60X Custom Strings and watch as your skills improve.

Work on Your Stance

Before you even notch an arrow, you need to get a basic archer’s stance down. Over time, you’re probably going to end up adjusting your stance as you get more comfortable with shooting. Once you find a stance that you’re comfortable with, find this position every single time you pick up your compound bow to work on how to shoot.

Of all the compound bow shooting tips we have for you, this one is the most important so don’t skip it. You can have the best archery bow for beginners but if you don’t get your stance down first, it won’t matter.

If you’re shooting at an actual range, there should be a line that runs parallel to the target. Use this shooting line as a guide for your stance. For ranges that don’t have a shooting line, create your own with a stick, rope, or chalk.

To find your stance follow these directions:

• Relax your whole body.
• Right-handed shooters, put your left foot in front of the line. Left-handers, use your right foot.
• Keep your feet about shoulder-width apart.
• Stand sideways so your feet are parallel to the line.
• Keep your posture straight and rotate your head directly over your forward-facing shoulder.
• Press your shoulders down and keep your lower back flat.

Now that you’ve got your stance, let’s dig into how to shoot a compound bow.

Find Your Anchor Point

Your anchor point is where your draw hand rests when you’re about to let the arrow fly. Most archer’s anchor their draw hand near their cheek or jaw. If you don’t have a consistent anchor point, choose one that you will use every time because consistency here is the key to great aim.

Find that exact same anchor point every time you shoot. The best archery bow for beginners will allow you to experiment with different positions until you find an anchor spot that feels right.

Hold the String with Two Fingers

When learning how to shoot a compound bow, as you load the arrow and draw the string back, use either two or three fingers. When it’s time to release the arrow, have your pointer finger above the arrow and your middle finger below it. Don’t touch the arrow with your fingers to stabilize it—you could injure yourself on the release or compromise the flight of the arrow.

When you release the string, a bow shooting tip we recommend you try is relaxing your fingers and letting both go at the same time. Any tension in your fingers will affect the string and change the direction of the arrow’s flight.

Don’t Wait Too Long to Shoot

As a general rule, as you’re learning how to shoot your compound bow, experts recommend shooting the arrow within seven seconds after pulling it back. That way, you stay focused on shooting. After seven seconds, you may become distracted by your surroundings or start overthinking your shot.

You should never take a shot if you’re not confident, so always make sure you’re mentally prepared before you notch an arrow — even when you’re using the best archery bow for beginners. Don’t forget to make sure that the coast is 100% clear before you even think about drawing your bow.

Shooting with Experts

Everyone has their own compound bow shooting tips, so it’s wise to learn from as many experienced archers as possible. After all, everyone has their own unique style when it comes to how to shoot a compound bow. These tips will get you started, but it’s a good idea to watch other archers and see how they’ve fine-tuned their approach. Plus, you can ask them questions and get tips on the best equipment.

Use Quality Equipment

One of the most overlooked tips is that bad gear leads to bad shooting. If you really want to get into archery and stick with it, investing in quality gear is worth it.

One of the easiest and most affordable ways to upgrade your bow is to use custom strings from 60X. We offer both single bowstrings and cables as well as sets for your convenience. You should change your strings and cables every year or so, but upgrading your stock strings right out of the box is a great way to squeeze the most performance from your compound bow as you learn how to shoot. Boost accuracy, stability, and arrow speed with the world’s best bowstrings and cables.

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