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Leah Cutter – Writer/Traveler

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As some of you may remember, I did the majority of the electrical work in the tiny house. I had a professional help me initially set up the breaker box, as well as wire in the tankless water heater. But I did the rest of the work.

I’ve been having problems recently with one of the GFCI outlets tripping.

Outside the tiny house are two pine trees. I have lights strung across them that are on a timer, so they turn on at dusk every evening. It’s quite delightful.

The timer is connected to an extension cord that has room for three plugs in it. It’s made for outdoors, for plugging in Christmas tree lights. The extension cord is plugged into the troublesome GFCI.

When I took the box holding the GFCI apart, I did see some water damage. So I figured the outlet had been exposed to water and had possibly shorted out. I replaced it with a new outlet.

However, I couldn’t get the circuit to work.

So I started checking everything else.

Guess what I found in one of the plug holes of the extension cord?

Half of a crispy fried slug.

No wonder that GFCI outlet had been tripping! So I think I found the initial cause of my problems. Hadn’t figured out everything though.

I have six outlets on that circuit/fuse. When I flipped the power on, the first outlet still showed as live, with power running through it. (I have a voltage detector for outlets.) The second outlet did not have any power running through it.

Hmmmm.

So I took that outlet apart.

Because there are six outlets, I have wires coming in as well as going out of the outlet (line and load). This also means two ground wires. But there’s only the one green ground screw on an outlet. And it’s a pain in the ass to try to connect both wires to the single green ground screw.

Instead, I “pigtail” the ground wires together, generally using a wire nut. Basically, I connect the line and the load wires together with a third short wire, called the pigtail wire. You use an electric wing nut to twist the three wires together. Then you connect the singular pigtail wire to the green ground screw on the outlet.

Seemed that current had run up the ground wire from the faulty GFCI outlet and fried the pigtail wire in the wing nut. This is a good thing. Much better to fry that then to fry the outlet. Or the house.

So I replaced the pigtail wire and wing nut, reconnected the outlet, and ta dah! The circuit works and I have power again on that side of the tiny house.

I have also now covered up the extra plug holes on the extension cord with duct tape. No more crispy fried slug!

Electrical work always takes longer than I think it will. But I’m quite pleased that I can do it and figure this stuff out.

What have you done recently that was complicated, but worth the effort?

The 5 Best Tent Stakes of 2024

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Best for the Beach and Soft Sediment

Orange Screw Ultimate Ground Anchor

Weight Per Stake: 1.82 oz | Material: 100% recycled polycarbonate plastic

If you often set up camp with a canopy tent on the beach or other areas with soft sediment, the Orange Screw Ultimate Ground Anchor is the stake for you. Its screw design, flexible plastic material, and length are the perfect recipe for a lightweight, durable, robust holding power machine in loose sediment where other stake designs struggle. Another bonus is that these screws do not require a hammer or an awkward balancing act to install by foot. Rather they use a plastic tube that threads through the top of the anchor for extra leverage to screw in by hand. Even if the anchor can only be installed 50% into the ground, the natural flexibility of the plastic and effective traction of the screw in the ground still provides an awesome hold.

Where the Orange Screw doesn’t shine is in hard, rocky ground. The main challenge in tough rocky earth is gaining initial traction with the anchor. As rocks shift and get dislodged as the anchor tries to dig in, it loosens up the ground reducing any traction the anchor might have had initially. This limitation to soft sediment already largely disqualifies these stakes from backcountry use, while the bulky size of these screws makes them an unrealistic option for backpacking as well. Overall, the Orange Screw is a durable option for staking applications requiring a strong hold in both horizontal and vertical directions of pull in soft to firm conditions. While you likely won’t see these miles away from the trailhead, there are plenty of uses like backyard canopies, camping, and festivals where these stakes can shine, plus the fact that it is made of recycled materials is an added bonus.

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Why You Should Trust Us

We extensively researched the various types of tent stakes available on the market today, ranging from tri-beam, shepherd’s hook, nail peg, screws, and v-shape designs, and compiled a list of dozens of the most popular models today. Keeping overall performance and cost in mind, we narrowed our focus further to the top contenders for meeting a wide array of end-user needs. We hammered, pushed, and pulled each stake in and out of an array of different ground densities repeatedly to gauge durability, holding power, overall versatility, and ease of use to suss out the best of the best. With 80 uses applied per stake, we installed and pulled on stakes over 800 times. We carefully weighed and measured each stake to gauge overall packability while considering the inclusion of a stuff sack or not. We kept detailed notes along the way capturing surprise or unexpected performances and logged ideal uses in order to provide you with all of the information you need in choosing your next set of tent stakes.

As an avid outdoor recreationalist and industry professional, Hayley Walker has been adventuring and working in the outdoors since graduating from college in 2011. Whether it is backpacking, canyoneering, climbing, mountain biking, trail running, pack rafting, or all of the above wrapped up into a multi-sport adventure, she has spent countless nights out under the stars pitching tents and shelters. Her several years of experience as a rental gear manager for an outdoor guide and outfitting service has given her a depth of knowledge and experience when it comes to assessing camping equipment. She is no stranger to the ins and outs of tent stakes and their unending ability to bend or break at the most inopportune times. With a keen eye for the details and vast experience testing equipment for quality, Hayley put her knowledge to the test with this tent stakes review sussing out the top performers to help others rest easy on their camping adventures.

Analysis and Test Results

The criteria for comparison considers the important role tent stakes play in securing a protective and reliable shelter while out in the elements. Keep in mind your own staking needs and preferences as you consider the metrics and comparisons made between tent stakes below.

Value

Not all low-priced options are created equally. Some products present a better value than others, and though we don’t score the products we test on their price, we like to make note of products that provide a great price-to-performance ratio. We love the All One Tech Stakes, which come in a set of 12 and are lightweight, packable, and easy to use. This set is great for backpackers looking to shave weight and save money on gear. For campers who are less focused on weight but just need a solid, affordable stake to hold their tent down, check out the Coleman 10-Inch Steel stakes, a 4-pack of heavy-duty steel stakes. If you need a few more than 4, we recommend the Eurmax Galvanized, which are very similar but come in a 10-pack for a few bucks more.

Durability

Durability is one of the most important metrics we used to rank each model. While material and design play an important role in predicting potential overall durability, we wanted to know how well each tent stake could weather being repeatedly used in a variety of ground types including sand, soft soil, firm ground, and hard, rocky conditions in order to arrive at a real durability score. We installed 1 of each stake into all 4 ground types 20 times per ground type for an overall total of 80 installations per stake. Of those 20 installations per ground type, we used a hammer for 10 of them and our hands and feet for the other 10. Stakes were then scored across 3 metrics associated with durability; bend factor, guyline attachment points, and stake tip.

The recycled polycarbonate plastic Orange Screw Ultimate Ground Anchor surprised us with the highest durability score, showing very little wear and tear even after repeated uses. As expected, the steel Coleman 10-inch and Eurmax Galvanized stakes scored the next highest, especially under their ideal circumstances for use, with a hammer in soft to hard ground.

The Vargo Ti Shepherd’s Hook received a high score considering its minuscule weight, displaying promising integrity with its titanium material and natural flexing capabilities. The aluminum models struggled to keep up with the sturdiest models in regards to durability, but with careful use, they can enjoy a long life, too.

Packability

Packability is another key area of performance, especially when considering a backpacking or backcountry setting. Campers can largely ignore this metric, while backpackers are advised to tune in more carefully. We carefully measured and weighed each tent stake using a kitchen scale and measuring tape. Each stake within its set was measured and the average weight was scored relative to the other contenders. We measured one stake from each set to log and score the length and width. The smaller and lighter the stake, the higher the score. We also considered whether or not a set of stakes came with a stuff sack or not.

The most packable stakes were the Vargo Ti Shepherd’s Hook, the MSR Mini Groundhog, and the TOAKS Titanium V-Shaped, all of which were indeed lightweight and quite small in size. The Vargo Ti and the MSR Mini scored well for being the lightest of the bunch, while the TOAKS Titanium scored well for its ability to pack down into a neat, compact size by nesting into itself and for coming with a high-visibility, ultralight stuff sack.

Holding Power

This test metric measures how strong of a hold each stake provides across soft soil, firm ground, and hard rocky conditions. Upon installing each tent stake into the ground during our durability testing, we then attached a guyline to each stake and pulled at a near-horizontal angle to the ground. Across 20 pulls, we judged how easy or difficult it was to pull out of the ground. Scores were tallied either as an easy single-hand pull, a difficult single-hand pull, or a hard two-hand pull. Difficult two-hand pulls were then tallied for each stake across the soft soil, firm ground, and hard rocky ground types to give an average holding power score. We intentionally left out sandy conditions to give a more accurate representation of holding power under the most common circumstances. If a stake held strongly in one ground type but performed poorly in another, its overall holding power score was lower despite excelling under some circumstances.

Our strongest performers included the longer steel nail peg designs like the Coleman 10-inch Steel and the Eurmax Galvanized, which were able to dig down deep, maximizing their surface area and traction. The other top contender, especially in softer to firm ground types, was the Orange Screw Ultimate Ground Anchor with its wide screw design and length reaching and gripping effectively into the ground.

The other above-average performers included the TOAKS Titanium V-Shaped utilizing maximum surface area with its v-shape design and the aluminum tri-beam models like the MSR Mini Groundhog and the All One Tech stakes. Some of the shepherd hooks impressed us with more holding power than expected but still landed lower than the models mentioned above in this metric.

Versatility

Versatility determines overall stake performance and is based on scoring answers to a few basic questions. First, we consider how many guyline attachment points the stake presented. The more available options for attaching guylines increased the overall usability of a single stake. Second, we consider whether or not a stake requires a directional placement in the ground or if it can be placed in multiple directions. A directional placement requirement can be limiting, reducing its overall usability. Third, we consider the stakes’ utility across varying sediment densities, from loose sand to packed and dry dirt. Lastly, we consider whether or not it is still feasible to use a stake after it was bent or damaged through prior testing.

Our top performers for versatility included the All One Tech and MSR Mini Groundhog stakes for their overall solid performance in holding power, non-directional placement capabilities as tri-beam designs, and their ability to be used over and over again with minimal bending or damage. They are also lightweight enough for backpacking trips yet also work fine for camping.

The Coleman 10-Inch Steel and Eurmax Galvanized received higher scores for their ability to hold in sand where most others failed. Only the Orange Screw also performed well on the beach, although this screw is mostly limited to the beach or quite soft or moist sediment. The FANBX F Tent Pegs, while not the most versatile overall, did have a noteworthy performance in their continued usability despite getting bent out of shape early on in testing.

Ease of Use

Ease of Use is how user-friendly or not the tent stakes are. We used four criteria: ease of installation by hand and foot, ease of installation by hammer, the inclusion of a pull cord or equivalent, and the ease of removal from the ground. It should be noted that we did not use a hammer or foot to install the Orange Screw Ultimate Ground Anchor but rather, due to its design that utilizes its own mechanism for installation, based its ease of installation scores off of its intended installation method.

The top performers had pull cords and a tri-beam design in common, two factors contributing to easy removal and easier installation by foot. The winner here was the MSR Mini Groundhog, which was easier to install by foot than most others, hammered in quickly, and was a breeze to remove with the help of its pull cord. The notches are also very useful for keeping guylines in place.

The All One Tech came in as a close second. This model was equally easy to remove. However, its length made it a touch harder to install by foot. The Vargo Ti Shepherd’s Hook was another close contender. The slim profile made it easier to install in and around rocks. It was also easy to remove by hand with its hook design.

Conclusion

We used our professional experience working with rental equipment, our depth of personal experience pitching tents, and our extensive research and hands-on testing to bring you our comprehensive review and recommendations. After relentless usage in all types of environments, from sandy and soft conditions to our backyard lawn to rocky and unforgiving terrain, we documented stake performance through it all to identify the top models and their best uses, all with the hope of shedding light on what tent stakes make the most sense for your tent staking objectives and needs.

About Sean Campbell

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You certainly long to know more about your favorite airgun reviewer. Of course, I’m Sean Campbell by name. What else?

I was born in the Maverick County of Texas way back in 1983. One story by my dad during my early childhood years has always struck a chord with me

My dad and mum were cattle grazers. We didn’t own a ranch as such. Some of our neighbors did. All we had was about 50 heads of cattle. These fitted perfectly in our 10-acre piece of land. 

My dad would never stop talking about Charles Goodnight, one of the richest cattle barons in Texas in the late 19th Century. Together with his friend Oliver Loving, they used to drive thousands of Texas Longhorns for hundreds of miles for sale. The paths they used came to be known as Goodnight-Loving Trail.

“Always work as hard as Charles Goodnight!” My dad would forever urge me.

That spiked my interest in the cowboys. On my 10th birthday, I successfully convinced my dad to buy me full cowboy regalia. On top of that, I got my first locally-made crossbow. If only I was of age, I would have acquired my first Winchester 1873. That was my dream rifle. 

The weeks, months, and years that followed were a pure cult. Picture a gang of small boys fully dressed as cowboys and armed with ‘weapons of mass destruction’. Cattle grazing was never boring again. We would spend the day scouring through the shrubs and bushes for whatever tiny living thing we could pin down with our lethal arrows.  

Education

For me, grazing and outdoor life seemed the main business of the day. Schooling was more of a part-time activity, though the major part of weekdays was spent in class. I schooled at Pete Gallego Elementary School in Elm Creek, and thereafter Eagle Pass High School.

Math was my favorite subject. Once it was introduced to me as a ‘game of numbers and symbols’, it captured my heart, soul, and mind. I would effortlessly practice solving math problems every other day. No need to reveal my grades, but be sure they were outstanding. 

Throughout my school years, I was part of the scout group. For unknown reasons, I shunned other sports. Football never got into my blood. Nor did baseball, volleyball, and the like. By being a scout, at least I was assured of a camp in the woods once or twice a year. Boy Scouts of America mobilized us to be part of the Karankawa and Huisache camps.

It was during these camps that I improved my survival skills. Think of things like:

  • Finding and purifying water
  • Building wilderness survival shelters
  • Starting fires without a matchstick or lighter
  • Navigating in the wilderness to avoid getting lost
  • Signaling rescuers in case lost
  • Performing survival medical operations
  • Food acquisition to ward off starvation

Later on, I enrolled in the United States Naval Academy to study marine sciences. I strengthened my skills in seamanship, navigation, naval engineering, leadership, and naval electricity and electronics.   

Work history

After several years of job searching, I landed a job with the United States Marine Corps, specifically the Marine Infantry division. FYI, the marine infantry units are responsible for locating, marooning, and destroying any enemy forces threatening the peace of our beloved nation. 

One of my international combat tours was in 2010, where we actively participated in the Battle of Sangin in the Helmand Province of Afghanistan. 

After all those years of weapon handling, it occurred to me that I could better spend my time making, selling, and repairing firearms. You’ve probably already realized that I’m such a hands-on guy. And I just can’t help it.

I joined the Georgia-based Ashworth College in 2011 for a self-paced diploma in gunsmithing. It took me 2 years since I was juggling my studies with other worthwhile life commitments. 

In 2013, I got a job with the National Rifle Association (NRA) as a firearm instructor. That has kept me busy up to date. 

Family

Outside my work hours, I spend my time hunting, practicing shooting, doing outdoor photography and repairing people’s rifles.

All these achievements would not have been possible without my dearest wife, Katie Anderson. We surprisingly met in high school – and not in college as most people do. Not that we started dating then. We were simply general acquaintances. Life’s mercies finally led us to tie the knot at a private function in the summer months of 2010. Whether I was late in marrying or earlier than expected, it doesn’t bother me.

What matters is that I love my wife and she loves me back. Our union was blessed with one kid, whom we named Larry, in honor of the world-renown American television and radio host Larry King.

Why do I hunt with air guns (and not crossbows or real rifles)?

I prefer air rifles to real rifles because of the following two factors:

  • Air rifles are less noisier than real rifles. For this reason, game animals tend to stand in place and decipher the origin of the noise after a shot from an air rifle. This allows for quick follow-up shots to ensure the animal doesn’t escape the wounded. Conversely, the loud noise produced by real rifles causes great alarm and panic to both game animals and people living or passing nearby.
  • Secondly, with air rifles, I can carry as many pellets as I wish to and never risk running short of ammo. That may not always be possible with real rifles as there are limitations on how many rounds and magazines one can carry. Being deep in the woods without ammo is risky as wild animals can turn on you anytime and harm you. 

I also prefer air rifles to crossbows because of these two reasons:

  • Reloading a crossbow seems to take more time than reloading air rifles. When in the hunting field, I always need to act quickly and swiftly as possible. One second wasted in loading the ammo may mean losing a potential kill.
  • In the case of a mishit, a pellet lodged in an animal’s body is less disturbing and painful than an arrow lodged in the same animal. Thus when hunting with crossbows, I may be forced to track down animals that I fail to kill with the first shot, as hunting ethics dictate.

My favorite airguns

For the 2 decades I’ve actively handled firearms, I’ve owned and operated quite a several numbers of real firearms and air rifles. Here are my favorite airguns:

  1. .45 Texan SS (330 FPE)
  2. .308 Texan SS (196 FPE)
  3. .25 Airforce Condor (60 FPE)
  4. .22 Hatsan BullBoss (28 FPE)
  5. .22 Gamo Urban (23 FPE)
  6. .22 Benjamin Marauder (20 FPE)
  7. Beeman R9
  8. HW 90 and HW50S
  9. Diana RWS 48, 350 and 460

As you can see, I have a varied collection of several calibers, both small and big. I mostly use the .177 and .22, and sometimes the .25 air rifles for rabbits, squirrels, and small game hunting. The .30 and .308 are specifically for deer hunting. My favorite hunting states are Michigan, Ohio, South Carolina, and Pennsylvania.

I often use the .45 Texan SS for deer hunting. My daily schedule at times gets tight, and so I prefer to spare the little time I get off work for hunting and other outdoor activities. 

That’s pretty much all about me. If you’re reading this and you frequent the areas I’ve mentioned, I hope our paths soon cross. Otherwise, for all the rest, let’s keep interacting online.

Ravin R10 Review – Compact and Accurate 400 FPS Crossbow

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Here’s our review of the Ravin R10 crossbow. Ravin presents rifle-like crossbows that are significantly smaller and narrower than crossbows of other brands. The R10 is the successor of the R9 Predator. We also reviewed the Ravin R20 and the R26.

We were very excited to put the Ravin R10 to the test and can already tell you that we had a lot of fun with the crossbow for this review and we will have a lot of fun with the crossbow in the coming years because the R10 is built to last.

In the package we found the Ravin R10 crossbow with Predator Dusk Camo, a 100 yard illuminated long-range scope, three Ravin arrows(300 grain) with nocks and 100 grain practice points, a detachable cocking handle, mounting bracket, and a Ravin user manual.

The crossbow comes in the exclusive to Ravin crossbows, Predator Dusk Camo, and is also available in Gunmetal grey camo.

Ravin R10 Crossbow Specs

Design and Construction

The Ravin R10 is significantly more compact compared to its predecessor, the R9 Predator. The R10 measures a total length of 33 inches, an axle to axle width of 10.5 inches uncocked, and only 6 inches when cocked. The Ravin R10 tips our scales at 6.8 pounds.

The Ravin R10 is a lightweight crossbow that is highly maneuverable, the crossbow is suited for run and gun situations and easy to handle in tight spaces such as hunting blinds,

Ravin R10 Front

Ravin is of course famous for its patented Helicoil technology. Crossbows with Helicoil have a number of design advantages, and it allows the Frictionless Flight system to work.

The R10 features Helicoil technology and the Frictionless Flight System. Helicoil allows the cams to rotate 340-degrees, generating higher speeds with better accuracy. With a traditional crossbow, the entire arrow rests on the rail.

The Helicoil system allows an arrow to float freely, eliminating energy loss due to friction. The Helicoil cams ensure that the cable barely touches the rails and there is no downward pressure on the cable. As a result, the cable is not slowed down and barely wears.

Scope

The Ravin scope is a high-end 100 yard crossbow scope that is made of high-quality materials. The scope features fully coated lenses with red and green illuminated reticles. The scope is crystal clear to look through and performs well. The Ravin scope is fog-free and waterproof and contains shock and kickback resistant technology.

Ravin R10 Scope Close Up

Cocking mechanism

The R10 is equipped with a built-in crank cocking mechanism, the so-called Versa-Draw cocking system. This cocking mechanism reduces the crossbow’s draw weight to a mere 12 pounds of force. The cocking handle is of course detachable.

The Versa-Draw cocking mechanism also ensures that the crossbow is cocked 100 percent evenly for an extra clean shot. Cocking by hand is not possible, because of this you are not able to release half-cocked.

Trigger

The Ravin R10 comes with Ravin’s Tac Trigger Fire System. It is a crisp 4 pound trigger that gives you control over the shot. Shooting with the Tac trigger system is not noiseless but very quiet and with little vibration. The trigger system contains anti-dry fire technology to prevent the crossbow from dry firing.

Range Test

The Ravin R10 is a fast and powerful crossbow that shoots arrows with speeds up to 400 feet per second and is capable of delivering 142 KE knockdown power.

We used the Ravin arrows(300 grain) to speed test the Ravin R10. On our chronograph, we measured speeds in the range of 360-380 feet per second.

The R10 is an extremely accurate crossbow. The superb stability of the crossbow combined with Helicoil technology and the excellent 100-yard scope make the R10 one of the most accurate crossbows available on the market today.

Ravin 10 Range Test Close up

WARNING: DO NOT USE NON-RAVIN ARROWS OR NOCKS WITH YOUR RAVIN CROSSBOW.

Assembly

The Ravin R10 comes fully assembled and with a Ravin crossbow manual. You only have to mount the scope, attach the side mount quiver, and accessory bracket. It takes a couple of shots to finetune the scope.

Install the scope

Tho install the scope first attach the bottom rings on the rail. Lay the scope into the bottom rings. Place the top rings on the bottom rings so the scope is surrounded. Lighty snug up the screws on the top rings so you can still freely move the scope in the rings. Adjust the scope until you find the furthest point forward to ensure maximum eye relief (at least 2 inches from your eye) that allows you to see a full field of view.

Remove the elevation turret cap and place a level on the elevation turret. Rotate the scope in the rings until it is level with your the crossbow limbs. Tighten the upper rings, alternating between front and back screws, while still keeping an eye on your scope levels. Keep slightly tightening and alternating from front to back until secure. Rotate the FPS selection dial to match the manufacturer’s advertised speed.

Attach the quiver

Attach the mounting bracket to the bottom of the Ravin R10. Screw the mounting bracket into the hole on the bottom of the Picatinny rail with the sloped surfaces on the mounting bracket pointing forward.

To attach the Quiver to the mounting bracket, press and hold the thumb release on the mounting bracket. Position the posts of the quiver in the holes on the mounting bracket with the hood facing forward. Release the thumb release to lock the Quiver in place.

Reverse the process to remove the quiver from your crossbow. The quiver can be mounted on either side of the mounting bracket. Most right-handed shooters prefer to locate the quiver on the right side.

Attaching and removing the cocking handle

To attach the Cocking Handle to the mounting bracket, press and hold the thumb release on the mounting bracket. Position the posts of the Handle in the holes on the mounting bracket with the Cocking Handle head facing forward. Release the thumb release to lock the Cocking Handle in place. Reverse the process to remove the Cocking Handle.

Recommended Accessories

Arrows & Broadheads

We recommend using 400 grain Ravin Arrows. These arrows are made from 100 percent pure carbon and offer quiet, hard-hitting performance. They feature brass inserts and aluminum nock bushings.

Combine the arrows with Ravin’s mechanical broadheads. These broadheads are optimised for crossbows with velocities of up to 450 feet per second.

Storage and Transportation

We recommend a Ravin R182 Hard-Shell crossbow case to properly store and carry the Ravin R10.

We recommend Ravin’s R260 padded crossbow shoulder sling. It is an adjustable 2 1/2-inch wide padded non-slip sling with a neoprene design.

Ravin R10 Accuracy

Deer Skinning Knife Set

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This Article Covers:

Choosing A Skinning Knife

Skinning Knife Set

For me, the worst thing that could happen after a successful hunt, is that gut sinking feeling you get, when you can’t find your knife? it’s only happened a couple of times in 40 years, but even once is one time too many…

The solution for me is to always carry a spare knife in my day pack or better still you could build in real redundancy, and carry a compact skinning knife set.A skinning set is what I would use if I wasn’t so happy with my current knives.

Best Skinning Knife Sets – Check Today’s Prices!

Whether I’m skinning deer in the field or butchering meat at home, my go-to knife at the moment is a 6″ Boning Knife or a Swingblade from Outdoor Edge, the Swingblade has a 3.6″ drop point skinning blade as well as a separate 3.2″ gutting blade, rather than the usual gut hook you would find on a Buck or Gerber Skinning Knives – I find the Swingblade fast and comfortable to use, excellent for field dressing deer!

Skinning Knives For Deer…

Deer Skinning Knife – My Pick…

Apart from the Skinning Knife Set from Jero USA, which I feel is a bargain for 3 quality knives – (Made in Portugal) ideal if you refuse to buy knives made in China? The best deer skinning knife I’ve seen on Amazon, so far, is this Victorinox Beef Skinning Blade, A popular, 5″ Swiss-made knife, it is a tough, well-balanced, from a top-quality brand, at a competitive price.The Victorinox Beef Skinner is the Knife I would buy if I was in the market for a single skinning knife?

Top Skinning Knife Set

I recently discovered this well priced, some might say very cheap, professional skinning set from Jero Knives. Jero Pro 3 Piece Butcher Sets, made in Portugal, sold in the US, by JERO USA, the knife set has tough non-slip polymer handles [textured plastic] that is injection moulded over high-carbon knife steel! – these knives are made to work hard, all day every day. They sell with a Lifetime Warranty!

Jero Pro 3 Piece Butcher Set

Knife sets, such as the Jero Butcher Knife Kit, include no-nonsense skinning knives, designed for commercial meat processing – even with hard use, they will last for years! top quality knives at an amazingly low price!

For most hunters or farmers, butchering their own animals, a knife set or single skinning knife from the Jero Pro Series, is all you would need for processing large game animals like deer, moose, or elk – even skinning and butchering a hog or beef animal.

6 Skinning Knife Sets – Compare

Deer Skinning Kit – My Pick…

The 3 Piece Knife Set from Jero Pro Series In my opinion, is the best skinning knife set, You will find on AmazonBuy Now – (3 Piece Skinning Set) Pro-quality butcher knives, made in Portugal Suitable for field dressing deer, moose, or elk… Jero USA, Supply A Full Range Of Quality Knives To ProfessionalsCHECK TODAY’S PRICES!___________

Best Budget Skinning Set

The 6 piece Deer Skinning Kit from Outdoor Edge would be my backup choice. I love the solid carry case, but in my opinion, the two main knives are a bit small for skinning the larger Red Deer that I hunt, Though this knife kit is still worth buying just for the convenient carry case, caping knife, and ceramic sharpener… The main skinning knives in the set could be your backup knives.

Popular Skinning Knife Types

Skinning Blade Types

Drop Point Skinning Blade

What is a drop point blade? Drop point blades are my favourite blade shape for skinning deer, a well-balanced drop point knife is fast to use when skinning, due to the curve of the blade, rather than a sharp tip or point as you get with a clip point knife – in most situations, I find there is less chance of rupturing the gut or cutting through the skin/pelt when you skin a large animal using drop point blades…

Drop Point is a common blade for skinning knives due to its looks, ease of use, and strength of the blade, the strength comes from the deep curve of the blade tip and the thickness or heft of most skinning blades is designed into the knife for processing larger animals like deer or elk.

These positive attributes transfer across to smaller knives either folding knives or small fixed blades they often sell with drop point blades for skinning small game or EDC work…

But for me, I tend to buy a clip point blade for skinning small game like rabbits.

Clip Point Skinning Blade

The next best blade to the drop point is the traditional clip point blade, in most cases, it is a more versatile blade shape, but not as strong as a large drop point knife.

The clip point is popular with people who only carry one skinning knife as it is suitable for many tasks…

Skinning or Beef Skinner

When I first started hunting, these large curved blades were a common sight on every hunter’s hip in my neck of the woods, Known by some, as the beef skinner, we just referred to them as butcher knives…they came standard from farm suppliers with a deep leather sheath, with sharpening steel attached.

Jero Knives or a Beef Skinner from Victorinox Knives, are two good knife brands that still produce quality versions of the beef skinning knife – without the sheath, its long sweeping blade will be familiar to many older hunters, In the past, I would expect to see a beef skinner above every chopping block in any good skinning shed…

Knife Handle Material

Wood Knife Handle

Wooden Knife handles are considered “Old School” by many, but in my opinion, wood is a great material for knife handles, it wears well stands a range of conditions, it is lightweight and feels nice in hand.

Plastic Knife Handle

Derided by some? but used by many top knife brands including Victorinox, who market their plastic handles as Fibrox, or as it states on their website [Thermoplastic Elastomers (TPE)] I have owned several hunting knives with plastic handles, they all survived hard use and on occasion a little bit of abuse. I still own one after 10 years, they are tough – Just don’t put them in the dishwasher! Hand Wash Only!

Skinning Knife 7 Key Features

7 Key Features You should look for when buying a skinning knife.

  1. Look for a well-balanced knife with a comfortable handle, a skinning knife needs to feel nice in the hand with a good solid feel, but not blade heavy.
  2. You, want a non-slip handle, either textured rubber or a polymer/plastic, such as Fibrox, found on some Victorinox Knives, these handle materials are light, cheap, and durable, – a popular choice for working knives.
  3. A 3.5″ to 6″ drop point blade, or a stiff 6″ boning knife, works great for processing deer in the field.
  4. For me, a skinning knife must be reliable, easy-care, a stainless steel blade makes maintenance simple – a quick wash and sharpen when the job is done – no fuss, no oiling the blade, stainless blades are always ready for work!
  5. Skinning Knives with softer steel like 420HC or AUS-8 are tough in use, as well as quick and easy to maintain its edge with a high grit sharpening stone or touch up with a sharpening steel. – Hard steel like 01 Tool Steel or S30V is nice but softer steel is less brittle and easier to sharpen quickly…
  6. Hunting knives must hold their edge, a blunt knife is frustrating to use and much more likely to cut the person who is using it!
  7. Cheap to buy? Buying Cheap Skinning Knives… doesn’t have to mean crap, once you know what to look for! – Victorinox Knives are cheap, but of excellent quality, for example, all the knives in our comparison table especially the Outdoor Edge Knives and Victorinox, will give you good service for many years, but most are priced to suit a tight budget… (I use both Brands when deer hunting)

Well designed Skinning Knives, from well-known brands, will have all of these 7 features, they hold an edge, sharpen easily, have textured, non-slip rubber or plastic handles, You can expect them to be durable and reliable…!

F.A.Q

Summary

Choosing a single skinning knife to use on a variety of game is a difficult task. If you only hunt deer? or only hunt small game like rabbits or fowl…? the task is simpler, a single knife of the appropriate size is all you need.I like to cover all the bases with a knife set like this 6 Piece Skinning Set from Outdoor Edge – the gut hook for processing large game, the caping knife for small game animals or caping your trophy bull, the boning knife is versatile, useful for all game animals.If you Butcher Hogs or Beef Animals, as well as Hunt Deer, Elk, or Moose, the 3 Piece Butcher Set from Jero USA is a great choice for processing large animals.

5 Major Tips for Duck Hunting in The Rain That Every Hunter Should Follow

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5 Major Tips for Duck Hunting in The Rain That Every Hunter Should Follow

When it comes to duck hunting, we have to admit that weather matters a great deal. Seemingly inconsequential changes in outside conditions can greatly influence a hunter’s success. Do you know that light rain and wind is not likely to harm your hunting success? In fact, light rain and wind can even bring you additional chances. Surprised? Yes, we are not joking. At first, you might be thinking that ducks don’t like to fly in the rain and wind, but in reality, it’s not true. Have you ever heard such an impression as “ducky” weather. Generally, ducky weather means windy and rainy weather as ducks become less scared and start flying lower thinking that nobody could hunt for them in such bad weather.

Notably, if you are about to duck hunt, wind and precipitation can aid you, but you need to make sure you are well-prepared for hunting in the rain. And here we mean not only the proper camouflage, but you need to be well prepared. Mastering a few things can put plenty of birds in your bag. By the way, we’ve found an expert duck hunter who is going to share his 5 tactical secrets and the gear he uses to keep himself comfortable and wind and rain/wind protected.

So, let’s check what he has to share.

5 Top Tips To Duck Hunt In The Rain And Wind

Tip 1: Learn more about the birds’ weather-driven migration patterns, and determine their preferable places in different weather: check out where the ducks may be flying when it’s raining and spot where you can find them once the rain has stopped. Just for the record, rivers and lakes are excellent places to jump shoot ducks. But you can hardly expect a duck to fly somewhere over a big lake during the rain, but it is likely to fly around smaller bodies of water that have a good tree line blocking out at least some of the wind and rain. By the way, the Duckr application can tell you exactly which direction the wind is coming from so you can set up your blind correctly. Never again will you set up your blind facing the wrong way!

Tip 2: Consider investing in proper duck hunting gear to enjoy maximum, leak-proof protection. Typically, must have gear for duck hunting in the rain includes the following items: waterproof chest waders and a rain jacket, a fleece pullover, and weatherproof ultra light packable down vest, waterproof long boots, as well as balaklava,

along with gloves for cold rainy weather. Of course, there are several other items that duck hunters adore using, such as a pair of good binoculars, for instance.

Tip 3: Check the nearest weather forecast and remember that it’s only the rain that is good for duck hunting, but not thunderstorms. In a big scheme of things, go hunting it’s going to run but if a big storm is expected, it’s always better to stay at home.

Tip 4: Remember that ducks almost always fly into the wind. So it would be a wise move to place yourself where you have a shot at birds flying up or down the river. Makes sense, doesn’t it?

Tip 5: Ensure you hunt from a ground blind where you can stay warm and dry. But still don’t forget to wear the proper weather suitable clothes.

Finally, here is one extra tip from our expert hunter: Try to be where the birds want to be, stay hidden and use decoys effectively.

Key Takeaways

Despite the popular misbelief that rain and wind prevent you from successful duck hunting, if properly prepared, they can be a hunter’s best-friend. As a matter of fact, hunting in the rain keeps ducks flying low, making your job even easier. Follow the tips we have mentioned above and you will have all chances to succeed.

Hey, do you think we have missed some important duck hunting in the rain tips? Don’t keep them secret, please do share them with us.

P.S. To avoid any duck hunting issues with your local authorities, don’t forget to get permission to hunt.

We wish you happy and result-bringing hunting!

Related articles:

  • Strategies for Small-Water Ducks
  • Learning from Your Misses – Ducks Unlimited
  • DUCK SEASON’S COMING

A Complete Guide to Rabbit Hunting for Beginners

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About 1.5 million Americans hunt rabbits yearly. If you are among these hunters who love rabbit meat or hunting rabbits for fur or sport, you will be happy to know that most states allow rabbit hunting. Some states even allow it throughout the year. However, a successful rabbit hunt requires knowing where to hunt rabbits and how to prepare for a rabbit hunt.

Would you like to learn how to hunt rabbits with a high success rate? If so, our comprehensive guide has you covered with the best rabbit hunting tips for increasing your chances of bagging a cottontail every time you go rabbiting.

Preparing for Your Hunt

Hunting rabbits is different from hunting big game or birds. For instance, unlike rabbits, big animals are easy to spot, and they cannot duck under bushes. If you want to find rabbits in the wild, you need to know the best places and times to hunt them.

Know Where to Hunt Rabbits

Rabbit hunting 101 dictates that the best rabbit hunting grounds are places with thick brush, hollow logs, or dense woods where rabbits can quickly hide if threatened. These spots are usually close to rabbit food sources, such as clover, wildflowers, alfalfa, blackberry bushes, broadleaf weeds, and garden crops. Hunting in such areas will increase your chances of finding rabbits quickly.

Since rabbits are timid herbivores, they will hide within the closest brush, hollow log, or other hiding spots if they notice you approaching. Once you find a hiding rabbit, flush it out and take it down as it flees.

Know When to Hunt Rabbits

“Rabbit hunting season” is not the best answer to when can you hunt rabbits. If you want to increase your chances of bagging a bunny, the best time to hunt rabbits is early spring. During this period, rabbits that could not find enough food in winter are on the prowl to feed on the fresh growing vegetation.

Before and after spring, you can still hunt for rabbits, but you are most likely to spot prey in the early morning and evening. Why? Since rabbits forage at night, you can catch them returning to their burrows in the early morning. If you hunt in the evening, you can catch rabbits on their way to feeding grounds.

Lastly, on sunny cold days, you can usually find rabbits sunbathing on south and southwest facing hillsides. Alternatively, hunt rabbits during the day by using a hunting dog to sniff out rabbit burrows and scare the rabbits out into the open.

Get the Proper Gear for Your Rabbit Hunt

Our how-to rabbit hunt guide would be incomplete if it did not cover correctly equipping yourself for rabbiting. Without the right rabbit hunting equipment, you could have difficulty finding and killing prey. Even worse, you could end up injured during your hunt. Avoid such outcomes by going rabbiting with these items:

Rifle Suppressor

A rifle suppressor or silencer that muffles your gunshots during a hunt can be very helpful. How? First, suppressors reduce the likelihood that you’ll scare away every rabbit within a five-mile radius, giving you the chance to bag more prey. Also, a suppressor can reduce the recoil when you fire a shot.

A reduced recoil will improve your accuracy and chances of hitting your target with your first shot. If you prefer hunting with a pistol or shotgun, suppressors are available for those as well.

Shop Suppressors

A Rabbit-Ready Rifle

You cannot hunt a rabbit with just any rifle. If the caliber of the rifle is too high, it will obliterate the rabbit and leave you with nothing.

According to many rabbit hunters, the best rabbit hunting gun is a 20-gauge shotgun with an improved cylinder choke. You can also use a 12- or 16-gauge shotgun. The best shot size for rabbit hunting with such weapons is No. 5 or 6 shells that will not damage the meat too much.

Alternatively, you could hunt with a .22 rifle. Unlike a shotgun, it has a longer range that will allow you to take down small prey from afar. Most states also permit rabbit hunting with a bow or crossbow if you have an archery license.

Regardless of if you choose to hunt with a pistol, rifle, or shotgun, avoid using lead ammo. Lead ammo can poison the meat, making it dangerous to eat.

Rabbit Call

Instead of searching for hiding rabbits, you can have your prey come to you with rabbit calls. You can learn how to call rabbits with your fingers and lips or use handheld rabbit calls. Blowing on a handheld rabbit call will emit a sound that gets the attention of nearby cottontails and lure them out of hiding. You can also find rabbit call apps that you can download on your mobile device.

Proper Clothing

As we mentioned earlier, the best time to hunt rabbits is early morning or late evening. If hunting in winter or spring, these hours can be chilly. For this reason, dress in thick clothing that will keep out the cold air while hunting. Wearing thick clothing is also necessary for protecting your skin when passing through thickets, tangles, and thorny bushes.

For extra protection, wear boots and heavy-duty work gloves. Lastly, wear a blaze orange safety vest so that other hunters won’t mistake you for prey in the low light conditions.

Hunting License

Most states require that you get a license before hunting rabbits on private or public land. You can get the necessary license by contacting the Department of Wildlife or the Department of Fish and Game of the state you want to hunt. However, in states like California, you do not need a license to hunt rabbits on your own property.

Also, verify the rabbit hunting season of your state before going hunting. Rabbit hunting without a license or outside rabbit season can lead to fines and other penalties.

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Rabbit Hunting Tips for When You’re in the Field

We asked experienced rabbit hunters to share their favorite rabbit hunting tips, and here’s what they told us:

Understand a Rabbit’s Kill Zone

The rabbit kill zone is where to shoot a rabbit to kill it quickly. If you aim outside a kill zone, your shot may only injure the rabbit, giving it a chance to escape. Aiming outside the kill zone could also lead to a messy kill that damages the meat and makes it inedible.

A rabbit has two kill zones – the head and chest. Since a rabbit is small, many hunters prefer aiming for the chest kill zone because it offers a larger target than the head kill zone.

If you are aiming for the head kill zone with a shotgun, aim towards the end of the rabbit’s nose to limit the number of pellets that enter the meat. Rifle hunters should aim behind the rabbit’s ear to increase the chances of getting a clean shot.

Call Rabbits So They Come to You

After locating a rabbit’s feeding area or burrow, lure your prey towards you with a rabbit call. The hunting tactic is effective because it helps you avoid the hassle of looking for rabbits under every rock or thicket. As we mentioned earlier, several rabbit call apps and devices are available.

Hunt against the Wind

After spotting your prey, avoid alerting it by staying downwind. When the rabbit is upwind, the wind won’t carry your scent or the sound of your approach towards the animal. If the rabbit is unaware of your presence, you can get as close as necessary to get a perfect shot.

Zig-Zag through Cover

If calling a rabbit fails, you can scare your quarry out of hiding by moving through the area in a zig-zag pattern. Moving in this manner will allow you to cover more ground and increase your chances of getting close enough to scare your prey into making a run for it. When the rabbit bursts out of cover, you will get your opportunity to shoot it.

Hone Your Accuracy and Speed

Since rabbits move fast when spooked, hitting one in the kill zone requires shooting with top speed and accuracy. If you wait too long to pull the trigger after a bunny notices your presence, the rabbit will soon disappear out of sight. However, you will miss your target if you pull the trigger without properly aiming. Avoid such issues by perfecting aiming and shooting quickly at a practice range before going rabbit hunting.

Ready, Set, Hunt

That’s everything you need to know to prepare for your next rabbit hunting adventure. All you need to do now is get your gear and head into the wild to try out our how-to rabbit hunt tips. Looking for a suppressor to make your rabbit hunt quieter? look no further, give our suppressor experts a call, and learn how the Silencer Central team makes the buying process simple! With over 10 years of experience, we will walk you through the submission process, set you up with a Free NFA gun trust, and deliver directly to your door.

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The Day the Duck Hunters Died

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It is easy to forget the days like the one the duck hunters died. It is easy to forget that there was a time—not so very long ago, really—when there was no Gore-Tex, no Thinsulate, no neoprene and no polypropylene for duck hunters. There was a time when outboard motors, far from the sleek and powerful marvels of today, were crude, cumbersome beasts, unreliable under the best circumstances and all but useless under the worst. There was a time when there were no cell phones, no emergency beacons, no Flight for Life helicopters.

There was a time, too, when there were no weather satellites, no telemetry to provide data that could be plugged into sophisticated formulas and fed into supercomputers for timely forecasts. Indeed, that the weather could be predicted with any degree of accuracy then—November 1940, to be precise—seems almost miraculous, meteorology in those days being one part science and two parts the divination of omens, signs and portents. Nothing brings this into starker relief than the fact that, a little more than a year later, what appeared on radar to be a swarm of aircraft approaching the Hawaiian Islands was dismissed as some sort of malfunction by military officers who refused to trust this newfangled and unproven technology.flying mallard duck

Of course, some things do not change with the passage of time, and one of those constants is the love of duck hunters for the kind of wet, raw, blustery, thoroughly miserable days that keep normal people indoors with the fireplace crackling and the teakettle whistling on the stove. And just as absence makes the heart grow fonder, the longer the duck hunter is made to wait for such a day, the hotter burns his pent-up desire to escape the sloughs and bays and marshes, and there—decoys artfully set, blind brushed and grassed, dog expectant and quivering, call poised to be pressed to lips—scan the lowering skies for birds that ride the wind.

The fall of 1940 had been a mild one in the Upper Midwest, an extended Indian summer of warm temperatures and little rainfall. In other words, the duck hunting had been disappointing. Oh, there had been the usual “local” birds in the early season—teal, wigeon, shoveler, the odd mallard—but without any heavy weather to set the migration in motion, the great flocks of northern ducks were still in the prairie provinces of Canada, fattening up for the long flight south. Hunters throughout the region, from the Dakotas across to Wisconsin, from Minnesota down to southern Illinois, were on pins and needles, knowing that the change in weather they so dearly wanted was overdue, that it could happen any day.

Finally, on Sunday, November 10, came a forecast that held promise. The outlook was for clouds, snow flurries, and colder temperatures. Wildfowlers were ecstatic, and what made this good news even better was that Monday, November 11, was Armistice Day—the predecessor to Veterans Day, and, for many people, a holiday. Although as holidays go it was a fairly somber one. The grinding effect of the Great Depression still lingered in the U.S., and in Europe. There, where just 22 years earlier the eponymous armistice had been signed, war raged once again.

flying gadwall duckStill, it’s not much of a leap to suppose that the typical waterfowler of the Upper Midwest, upon hearing the forecast on the radio or reading it in the local newspaper, felt blessed—even jubilant. Other concerns were pushed aside; nothing mattered now but getting ready for tomorrow’s hunt. Decoys, shell boxes, shotguns, and calls were checked and rechecked. Ditto for boats, motors, gas tanks, and oars. Clothes were carefully laid out; sandwiches were made, wrapped in wax paper and refrigerated; thermos bottles were placed next to coffee percolators. The dog was given an extra bit of food, because in a few hours he was going to be one busy retriever and would need all the energy and stamina he could muster.

The phone lines hummed as hunting partner called hunting partner, their voices crackling with excitement. They knew, with as much certainty as they knew anything, the ducks would be flying, and they aimed to be smack dab in the middle of them.

They got more than they bargained for.

In his magisterial Where The Sky Began: Land of the Tallgrass Prairie, John Madson describes the genesis of a Midwestern blizzard as a “temperature marriage” of cold, dry polar air sweeping down from Canada and warm, moist subtropical air welling up from the Gulf of Mexico.

“Since its primary component is wind,” Madson wrote, “the classic blizzard is essentially a phenomenon of the open lands—particularly the plains and prairies, where the topography offers little resistance to moving air and the great storms can run almost impeded. There may be more snow in northern and eastern forest regions, and certainly much cold. The difference between winter storms there and the classic prairie blizzard lies in the intensity of unbridled wind that plunges the chill factor to deadly lows, drives a blinding smother of snow during the actual storm, and continues as ground blizzards and white-outs long after snow has stopped falling. Depending on snowfall and wind, the storm may leave drifts three times as tall as a man and is usually followed by calm, silver-blue days of burning cold.”

That, in a nutshell, describes the blizzard that screamed across the Upper Midwest on Monday, November 11, 1940, devastating everything it touched along the way. The winds blasted at a constant 40-50 mph with gusts in excess of 80. More than 16 inches of snow fell in the Twin Cities, while more than 26 inches were recorded a few miles up the Mississippi River near St. Cloud. In LaCrosse, downstream on the Wisconsin side of the Mississippi, the barometric pressure sank to an all-time low. The temperature dropped 30 degrees—from above freezing to single digits—in two hours and continued to plummet from there. Windchills were virtually off the charts.

Wind-blown snow and trees

Nothing escaped the storm’s furious, relentless, indiscriminate wrath. Livestock perished by the hundreds of thousands. So many turkeys died in parts of Minnesota and Iowa that after the storm farmers were selling whole “fresh frozen” birds for 25 cents apiece. The losses to wildlife, especially pheasants, were spectacular. Communications and power were disrupted across thousands of square miles, and transportation was brought to an absolute standstill. Every town and village close to a main road became a refuge as stranded travelers sought shelter from the storm. Countless people opened their homes to complete strangers, providing whatever they could offer in the way of board and room.

But for some there was no shelter, no refuge. Motorists stuck in snowdrifts on remote stretches of road were buried alive in their cars, their frozen bodies not exhumed for days. On Lake Michigan, the freighter William B. Davock was sheared in two by monstrous waves.

The ferocity of the storm was almost beyond human reckoning. There are accounts of farmers who, after checking their livestock, could not find their way from the barn to the farmhouse. Disoriented, pummeled by the wind, with no visible landmarks to guide them, and no sense of east, west, north, or south, they wandered blindly through a roaring white hell. The lucky ones bumped into something recognizable and groped their way to safety. The unlucky ones didn’t.old boat in water

Nearly everyone who survived the storm remarked on how incredibly difficult it was just to breathe. The air was so laden with moisture that it seemed as thick as syrup. And even when you were able to draw a deep breath, the cold seared your lungs like a red-hot blade.

This is what thousands of duck hunters, with their wooden skiffs and their cranky outboards and their canvas caps, found themselves caught in. Most of the world knows the Midwestern blizzard of November 11, 1940, as the Armistice Day Storm. To sportsmen, it’s simply the day the duck hunters died.

No one really knows how many people lost their lives as a direct result of the Armistice Day Storm. Although Time put the death toll at 159, the actual figure was probably closer to 200—and about half of them were duck hunters. According to John Madson, 85 duck hunters perished in Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Illinois alone. As he wrote in Where The Sky Began, “Caught by the storm with little warning, they drowned as they tried to reach land, or stayed in their duck blinds as waves tore them apart, or simply died of exposure that night on the river islands out of reach of help . . .”

If a storm causing as much destruction and loss of life occurred today, someone like Sebastian Junger or Jon Krakauer would write a best-selling book about it. But while it certainly made headlines—a spread in Life was entitled “Midwest Tempest Strews Death By Land and Lake”—America was preoccupied with other matters. After the dead were buried, the damage was cleared, and the bereaved had ceased to mourn, life resumed more-or-less as usual. And the weather for the remainder of the winter of 1940-’41 was largely unremarkable.

But no one who was there would ever forget it. Nor did their memories, like photos left too long in a show window, pale with the passage of time. It was the persistence of these memories that, 45 years after the event, prompted a Minnesota man named William Hull to track down and interview more than 500 people who’d lived through the Armistice Day Storm. He then selected 167 of these accounts and assembled them into a book called, fittingly, All Hell Broke Loose.

Now in its 18th printing, it’s replete with tales not only of close calls and narrow escapes, but of countless acts of charity, generosity, selflessness, and heroism. (There are a number of humorous, Keillor-esque tales as well, such as the one entitled “Three Hours Digging Path to Outhouse.”) Not a few of these stories were told by duck hunters. While the specifics may differ slightly—some recalled seemingly endless flocks of divers like redheads, bluebills, and canvasbacks, while others remember wave upon wave of mallards—they all agree that they had never seen the sky so full of ducks. They agree, too, that there was nothing in the weather that morning to presage what was coming, that the storm was upon them almost before they knew what was happening, and that it was only by the grace of God that they survived when so many others did not.

Every sportsman who was there has his own wrinkle to add to the story. Cyril Looker of Fremont, Wisconsin,—in the heart of the wildlife-rich Wolf River bottoms—recalls standing on the shore near a power line cut and burning up two boxes of shells as the ducks poured into Partridge Lake. The kicker, notes the 83-year-old Looker, is that the birds—mallards and divers both—were flying beneath the wires.

painting of hunters and dog in snow

The account that eclipses all the rest, though—and has made the Armistice Day Storm vividly and chillingly real for generations of sportsmen ever since—is the one written by the great Gordon MacQuarrie. Indeed, it’s entirely likely that if MacQuarrie, then the outdoors editor for the Milwaukee Journal, hadn’t been on the scene, the event would be little more than a footnote in duck hunting history. While a lesser writer might have filed a competent and informative report, MacQuarrie penned a masterpiece.

His story, under the headline “Icy Death Rides Gale on Duck Hunt Trail,” appeared on the front page of the Journal on Wednesday, November 13. It was filed from Winona, Minnesota, a Mississippi River town about 90 miles downstream from the Twin Cities. The river there is a sprawling, two-mile-wide wilderness of islands, oxbows, and backwater sloughs, and Winona was the epicenter of the disaster: At least 20 duck hunters died within 50 miles of the city.

“The winds of hell were loose on the Mississippi Armistice day and night,” wrote MacQuarrie. “They came across the prairie, from the south and west, a mighty freezing force. They charged down from the high river bluffs to the placid stream below and reached with deathly fingers for the life that beat beneath the canvas jackets of hundreds of duck hunters . . .

“The wind did it, the furious wind that pierced any clothing, that locked outboard engines in sheaths of ice, that froze on faces and hands and clothing, so that survivors crackled when they got to safety and said their prayers.

“Mother Nature caught hundreds of duck hunters on the Armistice holiday. She lured them out to the marshes with fine, whooping wind, and when she got them there she froze them like muskrats in traps. She promised ducks in the wind. They came all right, but by that time the duck hunters were playing a bigger game with the wind, and their lives were the stake.

fallen trees, snow and ice

“By that time men along the Mississippi were drowning and freezing. The ducks came and men died. They died underneath upturned skiffs as the blast sought them out on boggy, unprotected islands; they died trying to light fires and jumping and sparring trying to keep warm; they died sitting in skiffs. They died standing in river water to their hips, awaiting help; they died trying to help each other. A hundred tales of heroism will be told, long after the funerals are over.”

MacQuarrie told of Gerald Tarras, a strapping 17-year-old who’d gone hunting in the Mississippi bottoms that fateful day with his father, brother, a family friend, and their black Lab. They set up mid-morning in a drizzling rain; by noon they were trapped by six-foot waves, waves that pounded like huge iron fists and hurled freezing spray that turned instantly to boilerplate ice. The men beat on one another to try to keep warm, but it was a losing battle. At about 2 a.m. the friend uttered one last moan and died in Gerald’s arms. Gerald’s brother held out until 11 in the morning, but after 23 hours of exposure, he, too, succumbed.

Then, shortly after noon, a small plane flew over. Gerald waved, and the pilot signaled that help was on the way. Rescuers in the government tugboat Throckmorton arrived at 2:30—half an hour too late to save Gerald’s father. They found the boy crouched against a stump, holding his dog for warmth, fighting to remain conscious.

frozen pond, lake

Max Conrad, the pilot who led rescuers to Gerald Tarras, was one of the true heroes of the Armistice Day Storm. Dozens of hunters would later acknowledge that they owed their lives to him. On Tuesday the 12th, with the wind still howling but the skies clear, he took off from his hangar in Winona to help find the hunters who hadn’t come home. Flying a redoubtable Piper Cub—and fighting to make even 20 or 30 knots of airspeed against the brutal headwinds—he scanned the frozen margins of the Mississippi for the living, but often as not discovered the dead.

When he located survivors—they were frequently huddled in the lee of a skiff they’d propped up as a windbreak—Conrad would circle low, cut the engine for a moment, and holler “Hang on! Help is coming!” A few minutes later, he’d return and, like manna sent down from heaven, drop a canister filled with sandwiches, whiskey, dry matches, and cigarettes. Conrad would then circle until the Throckmorton or one of the many rescue boats that had deployed in search of survivors could get a fix on the spot. He kept flying until 10 p.m. that night, and he was out again at dawn the following day.

There is no telling how many hunters died for the simple want of dry matches. But even that was no guarantee, as there was still the problem of finding dry fuel to burn. Many a prized Mason decoy went up in flames, and a group of 17 hunters stranded on the same island took turns shooting down limbs for firewood until their ammunition ran out.

The Mississippi River was not the only place where duckboats became sepulchres, of course. Two hunters died on Wisconsin’s Big Muskego Lake, barely 20 miles from downtown Milwaukee. One of these men was alone in his skiff, trapped by waves and ice. Toward the end, another party of hunters glimpsed him standing in his boat with his head tilted back, his arms stretched outwards, and his palms turned up. It was as if he was imploring God—or perhaps commending his soul to Him. While the other hunters, who themselves were fighting to survive, watched helplessly, the man slumped back into his skiff, leaned heavily against the gunwale, and went motionless.

His spirit, like the ducks that drew him out on that terrible day, had flown.

The author wishes to thank Howard Mead of Madison, Wisconsin, for his assistance in providing background research.

Baby Blues: It’s Snapper Time!

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2018 8 Its Snapper Time Child
Snapper blues are just about the perfect saltwater species to introduce new anglers to the exciting sport of fishing. (Photo by Toby Lapinski)

When I think of snapper blues I think of my youth. Countless memorable days in late August, sunburned shoulders, casting from a jetty in Madison, CT near my grandparents’ house. There was no 10-fish limit back then, and a bucket full of snappers fed the family fried-fish dinners for several nights. Today, the same excitement still thrills me when I feel one tugging on my spinning gear, fighting like a fish twice its size. Tigers cloaked in kitten bodies.

I’ve met anglers who believe snapper blues are their own species, and those folks were surprised to learn that “snappers” are simply baby bluefish. Anyone familiar with juvenile blues knows the name comes from the fast and fierce snapping of the jaws, which can inflict an impressive finger wound from even the smallest fish.

Snappers are young-of-the year bluefish, which become a “catchable” size of about 5 inches long when they invade our waters in late July and early August. They eat and grow at a remarkable rate, sometimes approaching nearly an inch per week. Late-season snappers reach at least 10 inches long before they migrate south in September, and are formidable opponents on a light outfit. They’ll strike at any lure smaller than themselves, making them a great target for young or beginner anglers and anyone looking for fishing fun on the saltwater.

Snapper Appeal and Locations

“When you find a school of snapper blues,” said Elliott Taylor, a snapper expert with 20 years’ experience in both CT and RI waters, “the bite can last all day, and you don’t need any special tackle to catch a limit. You don’t have to be a saltwater angler to get into snappers [although a saltwater license is necessary to target and/or harvest them], a lightweight freshwater rod will suffice, making these fish accessible to people of all ages and skill levels. Snappers, however, are not hardy fish—many don’t survive the catch-and-release process—so it’s best to have a plan for your catch, and stick to the limit only.

“You can find snappers close to shore, in estuaries and near structure like rock piles, docks and jetties where they chase bait like silversides, mummichogs and grass shrimp. Breachways and mini rip lines near shore often hold snapper blues, and nearshore tern activity is a great indicator the fish are there. Fleeing baitfish and small surface breaks are other exciting giveaways.”

2018 8 Its Snapper Time Catch
Whether they’re sought for food, sport or bait, snapper blues make great summer targets.

Technique

The easiest technique for catching snappers is to fish a small metal lure. Using this method, you cast—from either shore or a boat—as far as you can and then slowly reel in. Small tin lures are designed to tumble and flash, imitating a wounded or escaping baitfish, which draws any snappers within sight. Snapper pros experiment with different retrieve speeds to see what works best on a given day—faster speed keeps the lure near the surface, and slower speed allows it to sink a bit. Generally, try to keep the lure about 2 feet below the surface with your rod tip near the water.

An advanced technique is to work a flat metal rapidly across the surface with your rod tip held high, which causes the lure to travel along the top like a jumping baitfish—the same concept as working a big surface plug for adult bluefish. The trick is to reel it as slowly as possible while keeping the lure skimming the surface. The commotion triggers aggressive strikes, and it’s fun to see the hits on top.

Despite their reputation as voracious feeders, bluefish of all sizes are sometimes fussy. Bait is often the answer when small blues hesitate striking tin lures. If you’re only stocked with lures, try dicing a silverside into tiny chunks and use a piece to sweeten the treble hook on your metal.

Other snapper experts are diehard bait anglers, which means using a snapper rig—purchased from a tackle shop or home tied—consisting of a small hook threaded with shiners and bobber or “snapper popper.” Set the popper to hold the bait about 18 to 24 inches below the surface. Cast your line a little way out from the dock or jetty and wait. Some anglers try to cast as far as they can, but that’s unnecessary with bait and may cause a soft bait to tear from the hook. Like fishing for freshwater panfish, when you see the popper dip below the water you know a snapper is biting.

“Gently but erratically retrieving snapper poppers will attract fish that are spread out,” said Taylor, “as will using small, freshwater, surface-popper lures with the first treble hook removed. In areas with a large concentration of fish, a very small tin such as a Kastmaster, Hopkins or Deadly Dick is most efficient.”

Tackle

An inexpensive, light and durable 5- to 7-foot, small spinning outfit and assortment of small metal lures are perfect for quickly loading up a limit on snappers. You can add to the fun and challenge by bringing along a small fly rod.

“I use ultralight tackle,” said Taylor, “like a 6-foot 6-inch Ugly Stik Intercoastal and small reel spooled with 10-pound mono finished with a short 20-pound fluoro leader. But slightly heavier saltwater rods to 8 feet will also work, especially if you’re expecting any type of larger fish mixed-in. Long casts and intermittent twitches during a quick retrieve with a 1/8-ounce silver Kastmaster from any craft, including a kayak or SUP, attracts plenty of attention from the ever-present summertime snappers. You can move up to a 1/4-ounce for bigger snappers later in the season. Four- to 5-weight fly rods are also an absolute riot for snapper blues using a minnow imitation or bucktail retrieved quickly.”

Snappers for Bait

In the absence of traditional baitfish like porgies or bunker, snapper blues make good baits for slammer bluefish and even striped bass, but the main use for snappers as bait is for late-season doormat fluke. Keeping within the 10-fish limit, you can fish snappers either dead or alive, and there are several approaches when doing so. Some pros rig the snapper in the same manner you’d rig a shiner for largemouth-bass—from the bottom lip through the top, typically off a traditional fluke rig, either with a fluke bomb or off a three-way swivel.

To fish the fluke bomb, start with a barrel swivel attached to a 3-foot section of 30-pound fluorocarbon leader. Tie in a 6-inch dropper loop at the mid-point of the leader, and attach a large, flashy teaser. At the end of the leader, attach a snap swivel to clip on a fluke ball heavy enough to hold bottom. Cut a second 3-foot length of 30-pound fluoro, and attach it to the 9 o’clock position on the fluke ball with another snap. Tie in a 5/0 Gamakatsu live-bait hook for your main bait at the trailing end of the leader. This rig works equally well with live or dead snappers.

To fish a snapper live, some people prefer to place the hook in the back, just in front of the dorsal fin. You can also hook them through the nostrils. They can stay alive this way for a length of time. If the snapper is dead, however, don’t fish them with the flared gill covers and bent up head, typical of their rigor mortis position, because they spin in the current. If that condition happens, cut off both gill covers and bend the body straight. Sewing the mouth shut helps, too.

Other fluke pros “butterfly” the snapper bait by running a fillet knife from the tail up close to the head on both sides of the spine. Some experts then remove the spine for an unobstructed flutter action.

2018 8 Its Snapper Time Fish
While an array of lures and bait will produce snapper blues, tried-and-true “tins” like a Kastmaster or Hopkins is tough to beat.

Snappers in the Skillet

Many people don’t like eating bluefish, and therefore won’t eat snappers. But snappers don’t have the same dark meat and strong taste as adult blues. Their flesh is light and finely textured.

“They are great in the frying pan,” said Taylor, “just remove the head by making a diagonal cut behind the gill covers, cutting through the backbone. Gut the fish by pulling the head down, removing it from the body along with the entrails. Season to your liking with salt, pepper and oregano, and fry on medium heat until golden brown.” You then simply and easily eat the fillet off the backbone as you would a small trout.

The Elusive Striper

“These juvenile bluefish,” said Taylor, “also work great as live bait for large striped bass. When I was 10 years old, I was out in our Merrimac canoe with my father near a rock pile on Quonny Pond in Westerly, RI. We watched pods of bait swirling with packs of snapper blues meticulously corralling and devouring the peanut bunker and shiners. We were casting small Kastmasters and slowly filling our two-person limit for dinner. Suddenly, a large striper erupted inches from the boat, startling us, and taking a mouthful of bait and snappers with it. Frantically, we casted hoping to catch the bass, but to no avail. Since then, I have landed several 15- to 35-pound stripers using snapper blues.

“Catching your bait can be just as fun as catching your target species. Snapper fishing is consistently fast-paced, making it a quick cure for the fishing bug when other fisheries are slow in late summer.”

31 Night Animals With Glowing Eyes: Red, Yellow etc. (with images)

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Ever wondered which animal’s eyes glow in the dark? Or maybe you are wondering how to recognize a set of glowing eyes in the dark?

Let’s look at some common animals with glowing eyes at night as well as some of the more extraordinary hunters and nightcrawlers.

These are the most typical animals to reflect back the light at night. Whether you point a flashlight at them or they simply just appear to have glowing eyes when being caught on camera.

Which Colors Do Animal’s Eyes Glow At Night?

When you meet an animal at night with glowing eyes the color will typically be:

  • Red
  • Yellow
  • Green
  • White
  • Orange

(The ladder is a mix between red and yellow)

In this article, we will take a good look at all these animals. We will also list them by eye color according to a set of photos. Just remember that you cannot know for sure that animals will always have the same colored glow at different times.

We will come back to this at the end of the article – now it’s time to look some of these amazing night creatures in the eyes!

Which Animals Have RED Eyes At Night?

Several animals can have red or orange glowing eyes at night. This is because they have a reflective layer behind the eyeballs which enables the lights to get reflected back toward the viewer.

That perceived eye color at night depends on several factors like the animal’s actual eye color, the light source, and how the retina is constructed.

Alligators

Gators crocodiles have pretty large eyeballs compared to their size. They will often appear red in the dark and leave them looking even more terrifying than they do before night time.

Alligator with red glowing eyes at night in state park Photo: Larry Lynch

Owls

Another animal wood red or orange eyes in the dark are the Owls. They typically hunt right before dark and they have incredibly good hearing. But they also have pretty good eyesight as well.

The eyes really stick out in the forest when you notice the two red dots staring right at you.

Owls have especially big eyes in the animal kingdom. Their eyes are constructed more like a tunnel-shape which means they have to turn their head in order to look around. This is no problem though because Owls can turn their head 270° around.

The dark orange eyes are very pretty and they are probably the reason why Owls symbolizes wisdom and knowledge.

Owl with red glowing eyes at night in tree

Rabbits

Rabbits also have very special eyes. They will typically appear to have a light red tone in the dark if you catch them on camera or point a light source toward them. They can also be orange or even pinker red.

Again, the red color comes from the light being reflected at the back of the eye.

They also have a reflective layer behind the eyeballs which reflects the light back at you when you look at it. We will explain this feature in great detail toward the bottom of this article.

Rabbit eyes reflecting red light at night

Cats

Cats are the masters when it comes to eye colors. They can have a wide variety of eye colors. Not only during the night but also when it comes to their actual eye colors at daytime.

This very special cat, however, actually has two different eye colors. One eye is red and the other is green. You can see more animals with two different eye colors here.

Cat photographed in dark with two eye colors

Which Animals Have YELLOW Eyes At Night?

Now let’s change the focus to animals with yellow glowing eyes for a moment. This is a very common feature among animals and we find quite a lot of species with glowing yellow eyes at night.

Bears

Bears are one example. In the daytime, they normally have dark brown eyes. But when the light reflects at night they typically appear bright yellowish.

Check out these bears staring at the driver.

They could probably scare most people if you saw them at night!

Bears with glowing yellow eyes in front of car at night

Cats

As we mentioned above, cats can have all sort of eye colors. This cat is staring at the photographer with bright yellow eyes that could pierce you.

Eye color is determined by two pigment colors called melanin and lipochrome. The blend of pigment (or lack thereof) determines which color the cat’s eyes will have. But at night time the light can change the eye color by reflecting only parts of the light spectrum.

These two sets of yellow cat eyes look pretty scary in the dark!

Cat with yellow eyes towards flashlight

Cat with glowing yellow eyes at night

Deers

Another animal you typically can encounter at nighttime is the Deers. They will often stare right at you when you are driving or walking by a forest.

The eyes of the deer will often light up with a yellow tone at night simply because the light is reflected back.

Deers with yellow shining eyes at night

Raccoons

Another animal you might have in front of you when you notice a yellow set of eyeballs is the raccoon.

Raccoons are also nocturnal animals and therefore also have the reflective layer behind the eyes. They will typically reflect yellow light back of you.

Racoon with yellow shining eyes at night reflecting the light

Chinchillas

Chinchillas are pretty popular as exotic pets.

Here is a cute little fella eating an apple in a tree. The yellow eyes really light up in the dark and they seem to be very focused on the photographer.

Little monkey eating apple with yellow eyes

Panthers

The last animals we will look at with yellow eyes in the dark are the Panthers. They are large cats that hunt at night and their yellow eyes are very intense.

Most cats (large and small) will have yellow eyes in the dark. But most cats won’t have yellow eyes when the face is lit. But the Panthers can have very pretty yellow eyes. Though sometimes they can appear greener.

Panthers a a symbol of loyalty in tattoos

Which Animals Have GREEN Eyes At Night?

We will continue by listing a couple of animals with green eyes in the dark. These are a little rarer as most animals will have yellow or red eyes in the dark.

Dogs

Docs can have green eyes in the dark. This cute little golden retriever pup certainly looks adorable with the glowing eyes in the dark.

When you do see glowing eyes in the dark it will often be a cat or a dog. This is simply because these are some of the most common animals around areas where people live.

Dog with green eyes at night

Cats

Here’s a cat with bright green eyes

Cat with green eyes in the dark

Foxes

The eyes of the fox are also very intensive at night. They typically keep to themselves at night when they hunt. But if you do encounter them you should look for green (or yellow) eyes in the dark.

This fox has a mix of green and white eyes as he stares at you.

Fox with green eyes glowing at night

Opossums

Opossums will often leave a green reflection when they are lit up at night. Here are five Opossums in a tree.

Opossums in tree with green eyes

Which Animals Have WHITE Eyes At Night?

Sometimes animal eyes will reflect a white light at night. We will finish off by looking at a couple of animals with bright white eyes in the night.

These three species have all been photographed with a flash on the camera. That enables the light to be reflected back as a very white and bright color.

Coyotes

Hear the photographer has caught a coyote with his/her lens. The coyote stairs right at the camera and the eyes are very white.

Coyote with shining white eyes at night

Deers

As we looked at previously, Deers will often have yellow eyes in the dark. That’s sometimes the eyes will appear with a very bright white color.

This is especially true if you use the flash on your camera. The white light from the flash will be reflected at the back of the eyes and return a purely white color for the photo.

Deers in the dark with shining eyes

Tigers

This is not the guy you want to meet at night. It’s a Tiger with white eyes staring right at you in the snow. It’s hard to spot in the snow at night but the eyes give it away.

Tiger with glowing white eyes in the dark

Other animals with reflective eyes (Tapetum Lucidum) include:

  • Rats
  • Skunks
  • Ferrets
  • Horses
  • Pigs
  • Camels
  • Flashlight Fish
  • Cows
  • Goats
  • Walleyes
  • Kangaroos
  • Squirrels
  • Spiders
  • Lemur

As you can see most of these animals are nocturnal carnivores but we also have deep-sea animals on the list.

It’s especially important to see well if you are a predator in the sea (or if you are being hunted!). The water can make it hard to distinguish patterns and movement in the dark so big eyes with retroreflectors can really help here!

Why Do (Some) Animal Eyes Glow At Night?

We find this feature among several vertebrates.

The reason why some animals have glowing eyes at night is due to a thin reflective layer behind their eyes (behind the iris). It is called “Tapetum lucidum“. This layer reflects the light back at you when you look at the animal in the dark. This phenomenon is also sometimes referred to as “eyeshine”.

This means that the light travels through the retina twice and is reflected back in a wide variety of colors.

This also means, that the light you see is just the reflection of the light source pointed toward them. This will typically be a flashlight or a camera flash. When the light is reflected back it can have the colors red, yellow, green, or white.

The light is reflected directly back toward the direction of the light source in order to let the retina have a clear and more vivid image to analyze. For cats, the reflective effect increases the vision by more than 40% thus giving the cats incredible night vision.

Tapetum lucidum Explained (animal eyes that reflect light)

It’s a genius way to add more light to the retina. Animals without this feature (and humans) will only have the light pass through the retina one time. But the reflection adds more light and detail to the retina in order for the animal to see better in the dark.

This lets our nocturnal friends see better and further in the dark. It’s both an advantage for the predators and for the prey and it’s a good reason to stay indoors if you live around wild animals. They will probably have way better night vision than you do!

These are also the animals that are very good at seeing in the dark and they are called the nocturnal animals. When the light is reflected back a second time through the retina the animal has a better chance of sensing and seeing in the dark.

Recognizing animals by eye color at night

So does this mean that you can recognize animals by their eye color at night?

No, not really.

The reason is that you cannot know for sure that an animal will always reflect the same color back at you. It can vary greatly due to several factors we shall look at below.

Sometimes the color will be yellow and other times it might be green or even white.

As we looked at above it all depends on several factors:

  1. The color of the light being directed at the animal (LED, moonlight, flashlight etc.)
  2. The animals own eye color (which can vary greatly even among the same species)
  3. The size and construction of the retina
  4. The distance between you and the animal
  5. The angle you watch from

So you cannot know for sure that a certain species will always reflect the same eye color. When you look at how the eyes glow at night, you will notice above that we have deers and cats with both yellow and green eyes, for example.

You will need to know more facts about the animals in order to recognize them at night. It’s much better to look at the animal’s behavior, speed, size, etc.

If you can only see the eyes of the animal you should try to determine how much space there is between the eyes and how far from the ground they are. If it’s a big animal with large eyeballs you should keep a safe distance. But to remember that even small animals can be dangerous at night.

So if you don’t know what you dealing with you should keep your distance and make sure not to stare directly at the animal as it can stir up aggression in some species.

Why Do Animals Have Better Night Sight?

As we mentioned above, some animals have a reflective layer at the back of the eye enabling them to see better in the dark. But that’s not the only reason why they have better night’s vision.

Another reason is that they are able to see a wider spectral range of colors.

  • They can see UV and infrared light Many nocturnal animals can also see UV light as well as infrared light. Bees, for instance, can see some UV light.
  • They have bigger eyes Some animals have larger eyes which enable them to let in more light. That means that they can sense more movements and shapes in the dark, and are able to see in greater detail in the dark.
  • More light sensors Some animals have more light sensors in their eyes called “Rhodopsins”, and they let in more light. This advantage has a backside though as these animals typically are relatively colorblind as they lack other types of sensors that capture the colors of the light.

What colors do human eyes reflect at night?

Human eyes would always reflect a red color. This is because we do not have the reflective layer behind the retina (tapetum lucidum). Therefore the light will not be reflected back toward the photographer or the viewer.

So if you do see a human set of eyeballs lighting up in the dark it is typically because they are being photographed. They will appear red because of the blood vessels in the retinas in the eyes.

The light from the flash will enter through the center of the eye called the pupil (the black part) and its size is determined by the iris muscle. If the pupil is small there won’t be sufficient light to lit up the blood in the eye. This is why red-eye reduction software lets the camera’s flash blink an extra time just before the photo is taken in order to let the eye reflect off the light of the flash instead of letting it into the eye.

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