By DAVID RAINER, Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources
With Alabama Governor Kay Ivey’s signature this week, new legislation will provide hunters in Alabama with another opportunity to harvest two specific animals. The legislation allows Conservation Commissioner Chris Blankenship to establish a season for hunting feral hogs and coyotes at night without the need for a depredation permit.
When the season is finalized, Alabama residents will be able to purchase a $15 license ($51 for non-residents) to hunt feral hogs and coyotes at night.
Matt Weathers, Chief of Enforcement with the Alabama Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries (WFF) Division, said the new permit will make it much easier on hunters and the WFF staff.
“To this point in our state, those who wish to hunt feral swine or coyotes during nighttime hours have to get a permit that is only issued to landowners,” Weathers said. “Those landowners can list friends, family or delegates on the permit to take those animals at night for crop damage, property damage or livestock damage. This is done through special permitting through the local WFF District Office.
“The new law provides for a license that allows anyone in the state to hunt feral swine and coyotes at night by buying a license to hunt on any private or leased property where they have permission to hunt. So, if you lease a hunting club, if the person or corporation you lease that property from allows you to hunt at night, you can purchase the license to hunt those animals at night on your hunting club. And you can do that without the landowner coming to us to get a permit.
“It represents a new hunting activity for the state, and it will enlist as many as 200,000 hunters in this fight against two insidious predators. So, a new hunting activity; that’s a good thing. You have more feral swine and coyotes being removed from the state; that’s a good thing, too. It’s a win-win.”
Weathers said the depredation permits will continue to be available to landowners who prefer not to buy the new license.
“However, as long as the landowner gives permission, you can buy that new license to hunt at night,” he said. “This streamlines the process and provides the ability to hunt on very short notice.”
The damage wreaked by feral hogs on agriculture and wildlife habitat is substantial throughout the South. Estimates are that feral swine cause $50 million in private property damage in Alabama annually. The damage to wildlife habitat is difficult to quantify, but feral hogs compete with the native wildlife, like white-tailed deer and wild turkeys, for food and also damage the native habitat.
Coyotes are known to be quite effective predators of whitetail fawns and can have significant impacts on populations of white-tailed deer.
Weathers said the new license is specific to these two species.
“This license does not allow you to take any other game animal at night,” he said. “It’s a good way to control predators on your hunting club or property. And this gives you the opportunity to utilize that property or hunting club during the months when it’s a little too hot to hunt during the daytime. It gives you a little more value in your hunting lease.
“All parties involved, except for the feral swine and coyotes, are going to benefit from it.”
Weathers said several regulations will be amended to allow for equipment used for hunting at night.
“Those who buy the license will be able to use equipment that has heretofore been prohibited,” he said. “During the established season, you will be able to use night vision or thermal optics. You can have lights attached to your firearms. Those technologies are emerging and make the taking of these animals a lot more efficient.”
The elk, Cervus canadensis (formerly Cervus elaphus canadensis), is one of the largest members of the deer family. Its tracks and sign are similar to those of deer, but think larger hooves, longer strides, larger scat pellets, and look for feeding sign and antler rubs higher on trees. Identifying elk tracks and sign is essential for camera trapping the species and rutting sign is especially useful because animals tend to re-use these spots. The elk in the photo above was captured with a trail camera targeting the antler rub (see below under “rutting behavior”) because the bull was likely to return.
As members of the deer family, elk have cloven hooves. Elk tracks are larger than deer tracks and smaller than moose tracks, but overlap in size with both deer and moose tracks. However, elk tracks are noticeably rounder. Front tracks of an adult are about 4 inches long and wide. Hind tracks are smaller and narrower, about 3 1/2 inches long and 3 inches wide. Like deer and moose, elk have 2 dewclaws on each foot, situated higher up on the leg. In soft substrate or when the animal is running, hooves may splay and dewclaws may register.
Front and hind elk tracks. The larger, rounder track on the right is the front.
Elk usually travel in an alternating walk with a step length of 1 1/2 to 3 feet, and a trail width of 7-13 inches. But because they are social animals which travel in groups, you often find a mess of tracks left by multiple animals rather than a nice clear trail pattern of one individual.
Elk tracks left by multiple animals traveling together on a well-used run.
Scat
Elk excrete pellets measuring about 3/4 inch by 1/2 inch. Dry forage, commonly consumed in winter, results in discrete pellets. A diet of moist, lush vegetation results in clumped pellets or even pies.
Feeding sign
To find feeding sign, you must know the animal’s diet. In spring and summer, elk feed on grasses, sedges, forbs, aquatic plants, and leaves of trees and shrubs, such as aspens, willows, serviceberry, and chokeberry. In winter they paw through the snow for grass and eat the twigs and bark of trees, especially aspen. Grass makes up a larger portion of the elk’s diet than the deer’s or moose’s diet.
The key to find grazing and browsing sign is ragged ends: Like deer and moose, elk have lower incisors but not upper incisors, so they cannot make clean cuts through plants the way rodents and rabbits can. Instead, they tear vegetation between their lower incisors and the upper hard palate, leaving frayed ends. When consuming bark, they scrape upward with their lower incisors, often leaving frayed bark at the upper end of the scrape.
When you find ungulate feeding sign, consider the height. Deer feeding sign is usually 1-3 feet above the ground, moose sign 3-7 feet off the ground, and elk sign is in between, overlapping with both deer and moose. Snow pack allows each species to reach even higher. Obviously it’s not always possible to determine the species based solely on feeding sign, so look for scat and tracks, as well.
A grove of aspens with dark scarring where elk, and possibly deer and moose, have in previous years fed on bark by scraping with their lower incisors. The scarring goes as high as the animals can reach to feed.An aspen log with fresh sign of ungulate feeding on the bark by scraping with lower incisors.
Rutting sign
During the elk rut, spanning September and October in the north and more spread out in the south, bulls thrash and rub their antlers and foreheads on trees and shrubs, leaving behind broken branches, stripped bark, and sometimes hair. They also leave behind scent from their pre-orbital glands, thus communicating with other elk. Conifer saplings are often used, and the rubbed area is usually 2-5 feet above the ground. Bulls also create wallows in moist areas by churning up mud with hooves and/or goring with antlers. He urinates into the scrape and onto his neck and then sits down into the pit and rolls his neck, caking his mane with urine-soaked mud.
With head lowered, a bull elk approaches a conifer sapling used as an antler rub. Bulls may use the same trees repeatedly, even from year to year, so they make excellent trail camera targets. This and the lead photo of this article were captured with an Exodus Lift II trail camera.
Do you have any questions or pointers about finding or identifying elk tracks and sign? Feel free to share in a comment below.
Sources
Elbroch, M. Mammal Tracks & Sign: A Guide to North American Species. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 2003.Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation: Elk Basics.
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In terms of the biggest tuna ever caught, you are looking at a monster that weighed 1496 pounds. The beast was a bluefin tuna and was nabbed off the coast of Nova Scotia. How big do tuna get? Well, they grow huge, but the maximum size will depend on the species of tuna and the Gulf of Mexico is a haven for tuna of all sizes. [1]
Tuna fish size ranges from the smaller Tunny and Skipjack to the massive bluefin and yellowfin.
Yellowfin – Fish with Baitfish, Squid, or Crustaceans
Yellowfin are found the world over, they are one of the most targeted tuna with around 12 million pounds caught by rod and reel around the world. [2] Yellowfin can grow to six feet in length and over 400 pounds.
Bluefin – The Biggest of the Tuna Species
If you are looking for a monster game fish, the bluefin tuna is likely a good target. They can grow to 13 feet in length and weigh upwards of 2000 pounds. That’s a ton of fish that is as long as two NBA basketball players. The record for a pole-caught blue tuna is 1495 pounds.
Blackfin – A Smaller, but Fun Tuna
Blackfin tuna reach a size of 39 inches and a weight of 46 pounds. Most anglers would rather target yellowfin or the elusive bluefin tuna, but the blackfin tuna is a strong fighter and very good to eat.
Little Tunny – A smaller variety with Trophies in the 30-37 pound range
Little tunny is a schooling tuna that feed on baitfish and crustaceans. You find them in open waters and along the coastal waters. Fishing little tunny is a big sport because while they are smaller tuna, they are strong, and they fight hard. You can also use little tunny as live or cut bait for bigger tuna and shark fishing. [3]
Skipjack – A Trophy is 25-33 Pounds
Skipjack is similar to little tunny in that they stay small and are schooling fish. You can target them with herring or baitfish, and you will find them in coastal and deep waters off of Florida and around the Gulf. These are not the biggest tuna, but they put up an amazing fight. Even at 20 pounds, they will bend the rod and fight.
Albacore – Thunnus alalunga – A True Tuna
A big albacore is going to be around 39 inches though as a species they can reach lengths upward of 51 inches. Unlike many tuna, you find albacore in schools without other species of tuna. By nature, these are highly migratory fish, and finding them may mean focusing on baitfish. April and May and Late fall are the best times to target albacore. [4]
Bigeye – A bigger version of Yellowfin
A trophy bigeye tuna will approach 5 feet in length. According to Sport Fishing Magazine, the record for bigeye tuna is 392 pounds six ounces. Bigeye are often found near the surface where they feed on baitfish, but they can also be deep at over 800 feet. [5]
Some of The Top Tuna Species Caught in the Gulf of Mexico
The holy grail of tuna fishing is the bluefin tuna. They are elusive fish that seem to be on everyone’s bucket list of big fish. In truth, the blackfin is likely to be a bigger fish. Yellowfin are another top tuna species for anglers who want to battle big fish.
In comparison, the world record for yellowfin is 388 pounds 12 ounces but in Florida, the record is 240 pounds. [6] According to American Oceans, the biggest bluefin tuna is 1496 pounds. [7] That is a massive difference in size which is why almost everyone wants to battle a bluefin. Our list of top tuna includes:
Bluefin
Blackfin
Yellowfin
Bigeye
What’s the biggest tuna ever caught?
The biggest tuna ever caught was the 1496-pound bluefin. In the Gulf of Mexico, the biggest tuna ever caught is thought to be the bluefin tuna caught by Ron Roland off the coast of Louisiana. It topped the scales at 1152 pounds. Both of these catches tell us why bluefin tuna is on everyone’s fishing bucket list. [8]
Conclusion
If you are wondering how to catch a tuna, the options are fairly simple – deep sea fishing while trolling with live or cut bait. One of the problems with fishing tuna in the Gulf is that the geologic structure of the Gulf is diverse. You need a captain that understands the topography of the deep water and the location of deep structures.
Tuna – all species – are highly migratory. So, fishing them requires that you know where they are right now as their location is not static. Many species of tuna range from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean and elsewhere in the tropical waters of the globe. Even smaller species of tuna or small fish will put you on par with some of the best game fish on the globe.
Silver salmon, for example, is one of the most sought-after fighting fish around, and they weigh around 20 pounds. They do not compare in fight and strength to a small tuna. That is why tuna fishing is so popular. Not only do they fight hard, but they also taste good too.
While tuna is available all year long, April and May are great months to target tuna off the coast of Florida. November and December can also be peak months for tuna fishing in the Gulf while the summer months are busy for tuna anglers. What do you do between April and November? You fish for tuna or other big fish. A charter boat is probably going to be one of the best options you have to fish tuna during their peak season and also during the off-season.
Have you adopted a hunting dog breed? As with all types of dogs, selecting the perfect name for your an exciting, albeit slightly daunting task. Whether you want to honor your dog’s breed heritage or you plan to train your dog as a loyal hunting companion, search through our list of hunting dog names for one you can call out in tranquil dawns or whisper in hushed woods.
Hunting dogs have been man’s faithful companion for millennia, and their names often carry weighty legacies, inspired by mythology, hunting terminology, renowned hunters, and nature itself. So whether you’re a fan of traditional names like ‘Ranger’ and ‘Hunter’, or seeking more unique names like ‘Artemis’ or ‘Oakley’, we have you covered.
Aella: In Greek mythology, Aella was an Amazon warrior known for her swiftness. It means ‘whirlwind’.
Artemis: Greek goddess of the hunt and wild animals.
Atalanta: A Greek heroine, famous for her swift foot and hunting skills.
Bellona: Roman goddess of war.
Britta: A Swedish name meaning ‘strength’ and ‘exalted one’.
Calypso: Means ‘she that conceals’, from the nymph who was skilled at hunting in Greek mythology.
Ceridwen: Welsh goddess of rebirth, transformation, and inspiration.
Chase: An English word for ‘hunt’, it also makes a great dog name.
Cleo/Clio: One of the muses in Greek mythology who inspires heroic pursuits.
Diana: Roman goddess of the hunt and moon.
Echo: A nymph from Greek mythology, known for repeating voice.
Freyja: Norse goddess of love, beauty, and war.
Gaia: The ancestral mother of all life in Greek mythology.
Harper: Old English name for someone who plays the harp, but it can also signify a hunting horn.
Huntress: The female form of ‘hunter’.
Juno: Roman goddess who was a protector of the state and women.
Kali: Hindu goddess of destruction, time, and doomsday.
Kira: Means ‘ruler’ or ‘leader’ in Russian.
Luna: Means ‘moon’ in Latin, the celestial body often associated with night hunts.
Minerva: Roman goddess of wisdom and strategic warfare.
Misty: This name can signify the mysteriousness of forests during hunts.
Nyx: Greek goddess of the night, a strong name for a hunting dog.
Oakley: For Annie Oakley, the Wild West sharpshooter. (Did you know that Annie Oakley met her future husband in a shooting match with him? He traveled with a dog named George. Annie was quickly smitten with George so her soon-to-be fiance courted her by sending her cards “signed” by George.)
Odessa: Means ‘long journey’ which can be symbolic of long hunting expeditions.
Pandora: Means ‘all gifted’ in Greek, from the myth of the first human woman created by the gods.
Puma: After the large, stealthy cat that is an excellent huntress.
Raven: Inspired by the intelligent bird often associated with hunting magic in various cultures.
Rhea: A Greek Titaness, mother of gods, and skilled in many ways.
Ripley: A character from the “Alien” series, known for her toughness and survival skills.
Rover: A traditional name for a dog who loves to explore or rove.
Saga: Norse goddess of history and storytelling, a fitting name for a dog that will share many hunting tales.
Scout: Ideal for a dog who’s good at finding game.
Shadow: A great name for a dog who’s a silent follower during hunts.
Skadi: The Norse goddess of bowhunting, winter, mountains, and skiing.
Sphinx: A mythical creature with the body of a lion and the head of a human, known for her cunning.
Storm: For a dog with a wild spirit, like the untamed weather.
Terra: Means ‘earth’ in Latin, a grounding name for a hunting dog.
Tracker: Directly related to the hunting ability of dogs.
Truffle: A fitting name for dogs used for finding truffles, a type of fungi that’s a culinary delicacy.
Valkyrie: In Norse mythology, they are female figures who choose who lives and dies in battle.
Wilder: English origin, this name signifies someone who’s wild and free.
Male Hunting Dog Names
Ajax: In Greek mythology, Ajax was a brave and powerful warrior.
Apollo: The Greek god of music, poetry, and light.
Archer: This English name stands for ‘bowman’, an excellent choice for a hunting dog.
Artemis: Although traditionally a female name (the Greek goddess of the hunt), it can also work well for a male hunting dog.
Atlas: A Titan in Greek mythology known for his strength and endurance, he was condemned to hold up the sky for eternity.
Beowulf: The protagonist of an Old English epic poem, known for his bravery and strength.
Blaze: Represents a trail or a fast-moving fire, perfect for a swift hunting dog.
Chase: English origin, this name symbolizes a hunter’s pursuit.
Falcon: A bird of prey known for its incredible hunting skills.
Fletcher: An English name that means ‘arrow-maker’.
Gunner: A strong name of Scandinavian origin that means ‘bold warrior’.
Hawkeye: Denotes sharp vision, like the Marvel superhero who’s an expert archer.
Hunter: An obvious choice, this English name is self-explanatory and popular.
Jäger: The German word for ‘hunter.
Leopard: Named after the big cat known for its hunting skills and agility.
Orion: A Greek mythological hunter, who was placed among the stars as the constellation of Orion.
Ranger: Means ‘forest guardian’ in French, fitting for a hunting dog.
Rex: Latin for ‘king’, it signifies a dog that rules the hunting ground.
Scout: Someone who gathers information stealthily, this name is fitting for a hunting dog with a keen sense of smell and tracking skills.
Spartan: Referring to the ancient Greek warriors known for their discipline and bravery.
Tracker: An English name that directly relates to the tracking ability of hunting dogs.
Wolf: Named after the wild canine known for its hunting skills in packs.
Bird Dog Names
Are you adopting a bird dog? Our previous dog Irie was a German Shorthaired Pointer mix who loved nothing better than long walks in the woods. Here’s a look at some good bird dog names both related to appearance and inspired by their breed heritage.
Bird Dog Names Related to Appearance
Brindle: This term is used to describe a coat color pattern on dogs that appears somewhat similar to a speckled pattern.
Camo: Short for ‘camouflage’, which can often appear as a speckled pattern.
Cheetah: This big cat has a beautiful, spotted coat.
Confetti: This name could reflect a coat that looks like it has small pieces of different colored spots.
Dot: A simple and cute name for a speckled dog.
Dotty: A fun, affectionate take on ‘Dot’.
Freckles: An adorable name for a dog with a speckled coat.
Galaxy: Like the night sky filled with stars.
Leopard: Named after the big cat with a famously spotted coat.
Marble: Like the stone that often has a ‘speckled’ appearance.
Mosaic: Referring to the art form using small pieces to create a whole.
Mottle: A term that means to mark with spots or smears of color.
Oreo: Like the cookie, black and white.
Pebbles: For a coat that resembles the varying colors of pebbles.
Pepper: Ideal for a dog with black or grey spots.
Pinto: A Spanish word meaning ‘painted’ or ‘spotted’, used to describe horses with coat colors that include large patches of white.
Pixel: A cute, modern name for a dog with a coat that looks pixelated with different colors.
Polka: As in polka dots.
Pongo: From the Dalmatian character in 101 Dalmatians.
Smudge: A spot or blot, perfect for a dog with a speckled coat.
Speckle: Directly refers to the small spots or patches of color.
Splatter: A pattern created when a liquid splashes over a surface – a unique name for a speckled dog.
Sprinkle: Just like sprinkles on a cupcake, your dog’s speckles might remind you of this.
Splotch: A blot or a spot of color.
Spot: An obvious but classic choice for a speckled dog.
Starry: If your dog’s coat reminds you of a starry night sky.
Sundae: Like the dessert topped with a mix of different toppings.
Bird Dog Names Related to Birds
Whether you plant to hunt with your bird dog-or getting out and enjoying nature with your bird dog breed, here’s a list of potential names tied to birds, speed and the outdoors.
Aero: Greek for ‘air’, perfect for a dog that is as light and swift as the air.
Avian: Means ‘relating to birds’.
Breeze: Ideal for a fast and nimble bird dog.
Comet: For your swift and unstoppable hunting companion.
Dove: Named after the bird, symbolizing peace and harmony.
Eagle: A strong, noble bird that’s a skilled hunter.
Feather: Symbolic of the bird-like lightness and agility of your dog.
Flight: Represents the action of flying, usually referred to birds.
Gale: A very strong wind, representing speed and power.
Harrier: A type of bird of prey, also a breed of hound dogs.
Hawk: Named after the bird of prey known for its keen vision and speed.
Jet: Signifying speed and agility.
Kestrel: A bird of prey known for its hunting abilities.
Lark: A small, often singing bird, for your cheerful companion.
Merlin: A species of falcon, also the name of a legendary wizard.
Nimbus: Latin for ‘cloud’, signifying lightness and speed.
Osprey: A fish-eating bird of prey.
Peregrine: Named after the fastest bird in the world.
Raven: A bird known for its intelligence and adaptability.
Robin: After the bird species, for a friendly and sociable dog.
Skye: A name inspired by the wide open sky where birds dwell.
Sparrow: Named after the small, agile bird.
Swift: As the name implies, it represents swiftness. It’s also a type of bird.
Talon: The sharp claws of a bird of prey.
Wing: Symbolic of the bird-like agility and grace of your dog.
Zephyr: A gentle breeze, perfect for a swift and quiet bird dog.
Duck Dog Names
These names are all related to ducks and their environment. They could be ideal for a hunting dog bred to retrieve waterfowl, such as a Labrador Retriever, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, or a Golden Retriever.
Anas: From the Latin word for ‘duck’.
Aqua: Latin for ‘water’, where ducks often dwell.
Bayou: A slow-moving creek or a swampy section of a lake or river.
Brook: A small stream where you might find ducks.
Caddis: Named after the aquatic insect, a common food for ducks.
Canvas: Short for Canvasback, a type of duck.
Creek: A small stream, an environment frequented by ducks.
Decoy: The replica used to attract ducks during hunting.
Diver: Many duck species dive for their food.
Drake: The term for a male duck.
Eider: A type of duck found in the colder parts of the Northern Hemisphere.
Fin: As ducks are aquatic birds, this name relates to water and swimming.
Flapper: Referring to the flapping sound a duck’s wings make.
Flyway: The migration routes used by ducks.
Gadwall: A type of duck common in North America.
Lagoon: A shallow body of water separated from a larger body of water (like a sea) by barrier islands, sandbars, or coral reefs.
Marsh: A type of wetland, a common habitat for ducks.
Merganser: A type of diving duck.
Migrate: Referring to the migratory nature of many duck species.
Pintail: A type of duck known for its distinctive tail feathers.
Quack: The characteristic sound a duck makes.
Reed: A type of tall, slender grass that often grows in wetlands where ducks live.
Ripple: Named for the small waves ducks create when they swim.
River: Many ducks are river-dwelling.
Scaup: A type of diving duck.
Shoveler: A type of duck named for its unique, shovel-like beak.
Splash: Named for the sound a duck makes when it lands in the water.
Teal: A small, fast-flying type of duck.
Webber: For the webbed feet that make ducks such efficient swimmers.
Widgeon: A type of dabbling duck.
Pheasant Hunting Names for Dogs
Autumn: Pheasant hunting season often takes place in the fall.
Blaze: Referring to the bright, fiery colors of a pheasant.
Bramble: These are often found in the habitats where pheasants live.
Brush: Named after the type of vegetation where pheasants are often found.
Buster: A name that signifies breaking through the brush to flush out pheasants.
Copper: For the beautiful, copper-colored plumage of some pheasants.
Cornfield: A place where pheasants often hide.
Covey: A term for a small flock of birds, including pheasants.
Flush: This term refers to the action of startling birds into flight.
Forest: Pheasants can often be found in forested areas.
Golden: For the golden color found on many pheasants.
Grassland: A type of terrain where pheasants often live.
Harvest: The term can refer to the hunting season.
Hedgerow: A place where pheasants often hide.
Meadow: Refers to the open fields where pheasants can be found.
Quill: A term for a bird’s feather.
Rooster: A term for a male pheasant.
Rustic: Refers to the countryside where pheasant hunting often takes place.
Sage: For the sagebrush landscapes where some pheasant species are found.
Setter: A type of gundog used for hunting game birds.
Thicket: A dense group of bushes or trees where pheasants often hide.
Timber: Refers to wooded areas where pheasants might be found.
Upland: Referring to upland bird hunting, which includes pheasants.
Whistle: Named for the unique sound many pheasants make.
Wilderness: Representing the wild areas where pheasants live.
Woodland: A term for forested areas, part of the natural habitat of pheasants.
When picking a name for your pheasant hunting dog, consider these options that represent the environment, the quarry, and the experience of the hunt. Ultimately, choose a name that fits your dog’s personality and the role they play in your hunting outings.
Famous Hunting Dog Names
Bang Away: Boxer, Westminster Best in Show winner in 1951.
Belle: from the novel Big Red by Jim Kjelgaard.
Blue: Coonhound, from the book Where the Red Fern Grows by Wilson Rawls.
Bran: Irish Wolfhound, owned by the legendary Celtic hero Fionn mac Cumhaill.
Buck: from Jack London’s novel The Call of the Wild.
Bullet: Roy Rogers’ trusty companion on his TV show.
Chief: from the movie The Fox and the Hound.
Copper: also from The Fox and the Hound.
Duke: Bloodhound, from the television series The Beverly Hillbillies.
Gelert: Legendary Welsh hunting dog.
Luath: Labrador Retriever, from the movie The Incredible Journey.
Marley: Labrador Retriever, from the book and movie Marley & Me.
Old Dan: Redbone Coonhound, from Where the Red Fern Grows.
Rin Tin Tin: German Shepherd, a famous movie star in the 1920s and 30s.
Snoopy: Beagle, from the comic strip Peanuts by Charles M. Schulz.
Sounder: Coonhound, from the novel Sounder by William H. Armstrong.
Gun Names for Dogs
Beretta: A famous Italian firearm manufacturer.
Blaser: A German firearm manufacturer known for its high-quality hunting guns.
Bolt: Referring to the bolt action of some types of firearms.
Browning: Named after John Browning, the famous American firearms designer.
Bullet: Projectile fired by a majority of firearms.
Caliber: A term used in firearm measurements.
Carbine: A short-barreled rifle.
Colt: A renowned American firearms manufacturer.
Flintlock: An older type of firearm ignition system.
Gauge: A term used to measure the bore size of shotguns.
Gunmetal: a fitting name for a gray dog.
Hammer: External component of a gun’s firing system.
Henry: An American firearms manufacturer.
Kimber: A company that produces a wide variety of firearms.
Magnum: A term often used to describe a powerful gun or large caliber.
Mauser: A German arms manufacturer.
Musket: An old-style gun that was loaded from the muzzle.
Powder: Explosive mixture used to propel a bullet.
Remington: For the American company Remington Arms originally founded in 1816.
Ruger: An American company known for its rifles, shotguns, and pistols.
Savage: An American company known for producing firearms for hunting.
Scope: Telescopic sight used on many hunting rifles.
Shell: Brass casing containing primer, powder and a projectile bullet.
Trigger: Firing mechanism on a hunting firearm.
Winchester: American firearms manufactured by the Winchester Repeating Arms Company.
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“Exploring the Unusual: Do Deer Have a Taste for Oranges? Discovering the dietary preferences of deer and shedding light on whether these graceful creatures are inclined to indulge in juicy citrus fruits like oranges. Join us as we delve into this intriguing question and unlock the mysteries of deer’s natural diet.”
The Role of Oranges in a Deer’s Diet: Do They Really Eat Them?
Deer are known to have a varied diet, consisting of grass, berries, fruits, and vegetables. While oranges and tangerines may not be their top favorites, deer do eat citrus fruits occasionally. These fruits are not the first choice for deer, but they are aware that they are edible and will keep them “lined up” for later consumption. When other food sources such as berries, pears, plums, peaches, carrots, apples, and bananas run out, deer will turn to options like pumpkin or citrus fruits.
Oranges and tangerines provide several nutritional benefits for deer. They contain significant amounts of vitamin C, iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and protein. These nutrients contribute to the deer’s immune system and overall health. Additionally, oranges and tangerines are rich in fiber, which is an essential component of a deer’s diet. While fiber takes longer to digest and extract nutrients from, it is a normal part of their diet.
However, it is important to note that oranges can be potentially dangerous for deer if they consume a large amount without being accustomed to them. Deer have sensitive digestive systems that need time to adjust to new types of foods. Therefore, oranges should be given in moderation as a treat or supplement rather than a primary food source.
In terms of orange tree leaves, citrus trees are not the preferred delicacy for deer due to their aromatic nature. However, when better food options become scarce, deer may resort to eating the leaves of citrus trees. It is also worth mentioning that deer can cause damage to citrus trees by rubbing their antlers on the bark of the trunk. To protect these trees from deer damage, wrapping a steel mesh around their trunks is recommended.
Overall, while oranges and tangerines may not be the top favorites for deer, they can still be appreciated as a food source, especially during winter when other options are limited. It is important to feed them in moderation and ensure that the deer have time to adjust to these new foods. By providing oranges and tangerines as part of their diet, deer can benefit from the nutritional value they offer.
Exploring the Nutritional Benefits of Oranges for Deer
When it comes to the nutritional benefits of oranges for deer, these citrus fruits offer several important nutrients that can support their overall health. Oranges are rich in vitamin C, which is essential for a healthy immune system in deer. This vitamin helps protect against diseases and infections, especially during harsh winter months when deer may have limited access to other food sources.
Oranges also contain iron, calcium, magnesium, and potassium, which are all vital minerals for deer. Iron is necessary for oxygen transport in the bloodstream, while calcium and magnesium contribute to strong bones and teeth. Potassium helps regulate fluid balance and muscle function in deer.
In addition to these minerals, oranges provide protein, which is essential for muscle growth and repair in deer. Protein plays a crucial role in maintaining their overall body condition and supporting proper functioning of various bodily systems.
Furthermore, oranges are high in fiber content. While deer primarily consume grass as part of their normal diet, they can benefit from the fiber found in oranges. Fiber aids digestion and helps regulate bowel movements in deer.
It’s important to note that while oranges can be a valuable supplement to a deer’s diet, they should be consumed in moderation. Deer have sensitive digestive systems that need time to adjust to new types of foods. Feeding them large amounts of oranges without acclimating them first can lead to digestive issues.
To ensure the safety and well-being of deer when feeding them oranges or any other food, it’s best to start with small amounts and gradually increase the quantity over time. This allows their digestive system to adapt properly.
Overall, oranges offer significant nutritional benefits for deer due to their vitamin C content, minerals like iron and calcium, protein content, and fiber content. When provided in moderation as part of a balanced diet, oranges can contribute positively to a deer’s overall health and well-being.
Are Oranges Safe for Deer to Eat? Understanding the Risks and Rewards
Oranges can be a safe and nutritious food for deer, but there are both risks and rewards associated with feeding them these fruits.
Firstly, it is important to note that while oranges are not a top favorite food for deer, they do recognize them as edible and will consume them when other food sources become scarce. In winter times, when berries, pears, plums, peaches, carrots, apples, and bananas are no longer available, citrus fruits like oranges and tangerines can be appreciated by hungry feral deer.
From a nutritional standpoint, oranges and tangerines offer several benefits for deer. They contain significant amounts of vitamin C, iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, protein, and fiber. These nutrients can support the immune system of deer and provide them with energy.
However, it is essential to feed oranges to deer in moderation. If they consume a large amount of these fruits without being accustomed to them, it can upset their sensitive digestive system. It is recommended to introduce oranges gradually into their diet over a period of 3-4 weeks.
In terms of safety concerns, oranges themselves are not dangerous for deer to eat. However, if left out in large quantities or not properly washed to remove any chemical residues from pesticides or fertilizers, they may attract pests such as raccoons or rats.
To feed deer oranges safely, it is advisable to wash the fruits thoroughly before offering them in small amounts alongside other fruits and vegetables. Feeding deer oranges should also be done away from residential areas to avoid attracting unwanted pests.
In conclusion, while oranges can be a beneficial addition to a deer’s diet due to their nutritional content, caution should be exercised when feeding them these fruits. With proper introduction and moderation, oranges can provide necessary nutrients for deer while minimizing any potential risks.
Do Deer Enjoy Eating Oranges? Unveiling Their Preferences
Deer are known to eat a variety of fruits, including citrus fruits like oranges and tangerines. While these fruits may not be their top favorites, deer are aware that they are edible and will consume them when other food sources become scarce. In winter, when options are limited, hungry feral deer will appreciate the nutritional benefits of citrus fruits.
Oranges and tangerines contain significant amounts of vitamin C, iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and protein. These nutrients contribute to the deer’s immune system and overall health. Additionally, the high fiber content in citrus fruits aligns with the deer’s natural diet of consuming large amounts of fiber from grass.
While oranges can be a beneficial treat for deer when consumed in moderation, it is important to note that their sensitive digestive system needs time to adjust to new types of food. Feeding them a large quantity of oranges without prior exposure could be potentially harmful.
In terms of preference, citrus trees and leaves are not the preferred delicacy for deer due to their aromatic nature. However, if there are no better options available, deer will consume them. It is not uncommon for deer to help themselves to ripe fruit or young shoots from citrus trees.
When considering feeding oranges or any other fruit to deer, it is essential to check local regulations as some states prohibit feeding wildlife due to potential overpopulation risks. If it is allowed, ensure that the oranges are thoroughly washed before offering them to the deer.
Feeding small amounts of oranges mixed with other fruits and vegetables can be a good approach. However, keep in mind that altering their diet may change their eating habits and behavior. Placing the oranges at the far edge of your garden can help avoid attracting unwanted pests.
In conclusion, while deer can eat oranges and tangerines, it is best to introduce these fruits gradually into their diet. Citrus fruits may not be their preferred choice compared to other fruits and berries. If you have further questions about feeding deer citrus fruits, feel free to ask in the comments below.
Feeding Deer Citrus Fruits: What You Need to Know About Oranges
Oranges and tangerines may be delicious for humans, but what about deer? It turns out that deer do eat citrus fruits, including oranges and tangerines. While these fruits may not be their top favorites, deer recognize them as edible and will keep them for later when other food sources run out.
For hungry feral deer with limited food sources in the winter, citrus fruits like oranges and tangerines can be appreciated. These fruits provide nutritional benefits to deer, such as significant vitamin C content, iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and protein. The high fiber content in oranges is also beneficial for their digestive system.
However, it’s important to note that oranges can be dangerous for deer if they consume a large amount without being accustomed to them. Deer have sensitive digestive systems that need time to adjust to new types of foods. Oranges should be given in moderation as a treat or supplement.
Deer may also eat orange tree leaves if they have run out of better options. While citrus trees are not their favorite delicacy due to their aromatic nature, deer will consume them when other food sources are scarce. It’s important to protect citrus trees from damage by wrapping a steel mesh around their trunks.
If you’re considering feeding oranges to deer, make sure it’s allowed in your area and wash the oranges thoroughly to remove any chemicals. Start by giving small amounts of oranges mixed with other fruits and vegetables. Feeding deer oranges could change their eating habits and behavior.
It’s worth noting that other animals such as woodpeckers, mockingbirds, squirrels, rats, raccoons, and catbirds also enjoy eating oranges when they are in season. If you plan on leaving oranges out for wildlife to eat, place them away from your home to avoid attracting pests.
In conclusion, deer can eat oranges and tangerines, but they should be given in small amounts and introduced gradually. While not their preferred treat, these fruits can provide nutritional benefits to deer. It’s important to consider the potential impact on their eating habits and behavior when feeding them oranges or any other food.
Deer and Oranges: A Closer Look at their Relationship in the Wild
Deer and oranges may not have the strongest relationship in the wild, but these fruits do play a role in their diet. While oranges and tangerines are not top favorites for deer, they are aware that these fruits are edible. In times when other food sources like berries, pears, plums, peaches, carrots, apples, and bananas run out, deer will turn to pumpkin or citrus fruits and trees. So while oranges and tangerines may not be their first choice, hungry feral deer with limited food sources in winter times will certainly appreciate them.
One of the reasons why deer may not prefer oranges and tangerines is because they have adapted to consume high amounts of fiber from grass. Grass takes longer to digest and extract nutrients from, but it is a normal part of their diet. Oranges especially contain a lot of fiber, which can be beneficial for deer’s digestive system. Additionally, these fruits provide essential nutrients like vitamin C, iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and protein that contribute to the overall health of deer’s immune system.
While oranges can be a good treat and supplement for deer when consumed in moderation, they can also be dangerous if consumed in large amounts without being accustomed to them. Deer have sensitive digestive systems that need time to adjust to new types of foods. Therefore, it is important to introduce oranges gradually into their diet.
In addition to consuming the fruit itself, deer may also eat orange tree leaves when they run out of better options. Citrus trees are not their preferred delicacy due to their aromatic nature, but if there are no other food sources available, deer will resort to eating them. However, it’s worth noting that deer can cause damage to citrus trees even without eating them by rubbing their antlers on the bark of the trunk.
Overall, while oranges and tangerines may not be the top favorites for deer, they can provide nutritional benefits when included in their diet in moderation. These fruits offer fiber, vitamin C, flavonoids, limonene, calcium, and potassium that contribute to deer’s overall health. However, it is important to be cautious when feeding oranges to deer and to consider any regulations or guidelines in your area regarding feeding wildlife.
Key Points:
– Deer do eat citrus fruits like oranges and tangerines, but they are not their top favorites.
– Oranges and tangerines can be appreciated by hungry feral deer with limited food sources in winter times.
– These fruits provide essential nutrients like vitamin C, iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and protein for deer’s immune system.
– While oranges can be a good treat for deer when consumed in moderation, they can be dangerous if consumed in large amounts without being accustomed to them.
– Deer may also eat orange tree leaves when other food sources are scarce.
– It is important to introduce oranges gradually into the diet of deer and consider any regulations or guidelines regarding feeding wildlife.
Sources:
– “Oranges and Tangerines: Do Deer Eat Them?” (https://www.deerworlds.com/oranges-and-tangerines-do-deer-eat-them/)
In conclusion, while deer have been observed consuming oranges in some cases, it is not a typical part of their diet. The occasional consumption may be due to scarcity of natural food sources or curiosity. Therefore, it is not advisable to intentionally offer oranges as a primary food source for deer.
With their towering manes, searing stares, and distinctive roar, lions have been the symbol of power for centuries. But just how powerful are lion bites?
The lion has a deadly bite force of 650 psi. While this may seem like a powerful bite force at first, the lions surprisingly have one of the weaker bite forces when it comes to big cats and predators. However, this weaker bite force doesn’t affect a lion’s ability to hunt its prey.
This article will cover the bite force of the lion and how it compares to the bite forces of other big cats in the jungle.
The lion’s average bite force has been recorded to be around 650 PSI. When comparing this to a human’s bite force of a mere 150 PSI, this may look extremely strong, but lions have a weak bite force compared to the bigger cats.
A lion’s most substantial bite has been estimated to be close to 1000 PSI. The strength of the bite has to do with many different factors as well. The maturity and age of a lion are essential factors, coupled with the sex of the lion and what teeth it uses.
While female lions are usually the main hunters of the pride, a male lion sometimes joins in to take down larger and stronger prey.
It’s understandable how the lion doesn’t have the strongest bite force, but then the question presents itself, how did the lion rise to be the king of the jungle?
The answer here lies in technique. Lions attack the throat, generally a weaker area of an animal, and don’t require a massive force to kill their prey.
Lion Bite Force Compared
Being the king of the jungle comes with a lot of comparison and competition.
At times, it may be other bigger cats or hyenas posing competition and trying to fight the lion for power or a dead carcass of prey.
Other times, it may be an article comparing a lion’s bite force to other predators in the jungle.
1. Bite Force Compared To Tigers
Tigers are one of nature’s finest and deadliest predators in the world. Ferocious and ruthless when it comes to hunting its prey.
A tiger’s bite force is estimated to be an average of 1050 psi; that is almost similar to the bite maximum bite force estimated for a wholly grown male lion which is 1000 psi but far greater than their average.
The superior bite force of a tiger makes it understandable why a tiger prefers hunting alone because, with a bite force that strong, few animals can survive a tiger’s attacks.
2. Bite Force Of a Great White Shark
With the release of the highly acclaimed movie Jaws in 1975, the great white sharks became famous as the big bad predators of the ocean. It would be fair to compare the bite force of a lion with the great white shark.
Unfortunately, accurate measurements are difficult to come by, with some estimates as low as 625 psi and others as high as 4,000 psi.
If you thought measuring the bite force of a lion was difficult, try adding the underwater element into the mix.
3. Bite Force Of a Dog
Dogs are known as man’s best friend, but their bite force is dangerous. Generally, dogs can bite with a force of 325 PSI.
However, some bigger breeds of dogs, such as Mastiffs, German Shepherds, and Rottweilers, have a bite force closer to 500 PSI.
Although this might not feel that strong at first, a dog’s smaller size makes it difficult for them to have a stronger bite force.
Final Thoughts on Lion’s Bite Force
The lion is a highly magical creature that oozes class with every feature it possesses. It is distinguishable, and being the jungle king comes with many scrutinies.
A lion has a bite force of 650 psi, and although it may not be as powerful as the bite force of other big cats, it is essential to realize that the lion is efficient with its jaw and bite force.
The quality of crab traps for sale online is pitiful, to say the least. So-called “Best Seller” crab traps on Amazon and other online retailers will either fall apart or not hold blue crabs. As somebody who has spent a bit too much on crabbing gear, I’m here to tell you the difference between a good and bad blue crab trap.
When you’re buying crabbing gear, you need to know what to look for in a trap. A great crab trap has quality material, a good design, and is built to last. I’ve used so many traps that were plainly built to fail. For each trap on this list (The conventional crab pot, box traps, ring nets, and hand lines), I will point out what will make or break a crab trap. All of this is based on past experience.
Disclaimer: This article is filled with Amazon and eBay Affiliate Links. As an affiliate for these sites, I receive a small commission for any purchase driven through my link at no extra cost to the buyer. Thank you for supporting my website. I’ll mark each affiliate link with “(Affiliate link).”
A crab pot is what you usually think of when you think of crabbing. It’s the type of trap you see on shows such as Deadliest Catch. I have to say that I’m disappointed with the quality of crab pots online for blue crabs. More often than not, they are very low-quality and in limited stock. This is why I buy my traps custom-made.
Through recommendations of other watermen, I have found that they have the most luck through custom trap builders. Kcrabpots, a user on eBay.com, has been building and selling quality crab pots since 2002! This is the only crab pot builder for blue crabs I’m confident in recommending. Click here to find kcrabpots on eBay. You can navigate to his store via the Visit Store button on his about page.
A custom-built crab pot by kcrabpots.It doesn’t bend at a 25lb weight placed ontop!Comes with a built-in bait cage.
I wrote a review of this crab pot, which you can read here. It’s my favorite crab pot I’ve bought out of the several others I wasted hundreds of dollars on. If you want to learn from my mistakes and save your money, I recommend you read why I love this pot.
When buying a crab pot, manufacturer’s usually get two things wrong: the strength of the wire mesh and the shape of the openings.
This is an image of my old crab pot. $60 down the drain!
The image above is my failed purchase of a crab pot. It was $60 down the drain! It was made out of cheap coated chicken wire that I could easily bend, and I’m not a very strong guy! Crabs had no problem clawing their way out of the sides.
Far too often, this is the case for crab pots. However, one thing this manufacturer did get right was the trap’s openings (sort of!). They came slanted upward with enough room for a crab to easily slide into the trap, but not escape. The only problem was that the openings were made of the same low-quality wire mesh. So, the crabs had no problem bending the metal and finding their way out of the trap.
This is an image of one of the funnels on my old crab pot.
To be frank, I believe it’s best to buy a crab pot either in person or from a reputable builder. Far too often, the traps at Bass Pro Shops or other retailers, like this one, just will not work.
You will also need a crab pot harness and weighted rope with a buoy for your crab pot. I’ve found Promar sells a reliable harness. I recommend weighted rope over anything else because the slack will not float to the surface and get caught by a passing boat.
If you do go the crab pot route, be sure to check your state’s crabbing regulations. States, such as Maryland, require that you register your pot at their DNR webpage. Maryland also requires that you install a turtle excluder device on each crab pot opening.
Box Traps (My favorite crab trap)
Box traps are one of the two collapsible traps recommended in this article. A collapsible trap is a type crab trap that has to be actively triggered to trap blue crabs, unlike the more passive crab pot. This works as a great alternative for those who do not have access to a boat, do their crabbing from piers, or cannot legally use a crab pot in their state.
In my opinion, the best model of the box trap is the FoxyMate Topless Crab Trap (link to an article dedicated to this crab trap). I wrote an entire articlde dedicated to this trap, so click the link to read more about it.
If you start to do research on crab traps you may get overwhelmed at the sheer number of different versions available. There are pyramid traps, box traps, topless box traps, crab pots, ring nets, and plenty more. Forget all of these terms because they aren’t important. The only trap you should get a crabber is a Foxy-Mate Topless Crab Trap.
Here’s a picture of me holding up a crab I caught in my friend’s Foxy-Mate 66 Crab Trap (Affiliate link to Amazon). It’s not the Topless Foxy-Mate (Amazon Affiliate Link) version that I like best, but it still does the job. I like the topless version because you can stack them like cups for much easier storage. I took this picture on Taylor’s Island, MD. It was a female blue crab, so I had to throw it back.
Foxy-Mates are the ideal crab trap for anyone crabbing for Blue Crabs. If you live on the East Coast, from Texas to Maine, this includes you. They’re legal in every state on the coast and don’t come with pages long of regulations like crab pots do. Plus, they’re much cheaper! They work from a pier and from a boat or kayak, you will just need to get a buoy, some rope, and possibly a crab trap weight for anyone crabbing from a boat. The weight keeps their trap from being tossed around by the current, but it’s only necessary for crabbing in the ocean or rougher waters.
I did some digging on the internet and found that Amazon has the best prices for all of the items I mentioned. Foxy-Mates (Affiliate Link to Amazon) go in and out of stock on Amazon, but that’s because they sell for the best price here. I recommend the Foxy-Mates without a top so you can stack them like cups. You will want two or three so your crabber friend can catch more crabs at once. I usually take 6 out when I’m crabbing from my kayak.
With each trap, you’re going to need a buoy if you’re crabbing from a boat or kayak. States have different rules when it comes to buoys, so I would look at the ones they already have before making a purchase. You can read about your state’s gear guidelines on my State-By-State Crabbing Regulations page.
It never hurts to get more rope either. You can get fancy and order lead-lined rope for these traps (Affiliate link to Amazon). It’s useless if you’re crabbing from a pier, but if you’re using these traps from a boat it’s really helpful. This rope sinks with the trap, rather than float at the surface, which prevents it from getting caught in boat propellers.
With this trap, you’re going to want a weight if they are crabbing in rougher waters. I always recommend this Crab Trap Weight (Affiliate Link to Amazon) that you can zip tie to a Foxy-Mate. Tip: You can get away with zip-tie-ing some cut rebar to the trap as well, which is much cheaper.
I’ll briefly go over why I like this trap. I can sum it up in one sentence: It’s built to last a very long time and has no trouble catching blue crabs.
The trap works by laying flat with bait in the center to attract crabs. You can fasten your choice of bait with the spring at the center of the trap. When a crab tries to eat the bait, you pull on the harness to fold the cage’s doors upward and trap the poor crab.
It’s a great alternative to a crab pot, and much cheaper! It just takes active participation fro the crabber.
The only problem with this model of topless crab traps is that they are in short supply. They sporadically pop up on eBay or Amazon. If that’s the case, you may have to use a more-available FoxyMate box trap with the top. I find the topless version better because it’s stackable. It’s not more effective at catching crabs, just more convenient.
Hand-Lines (The beginner-friendly budget trap!)
Last up on this list is the basic Hand-Line, also known as a throw-line. It’s a step up from using plain old string and a net to catch blue crabs, as people have been doing for centuries.
They work by luring crabs to a piece of bait secured to some string. When the crab finds the bait, slowly pull the bait towards you with the attached string. Once it’s in view, scoop up the crab with a dip net.
The concept is as simple as this trap. It’s a clip to better secure your bait with a built-in weight so the line goes further out in the water. This won’t limit you to plain old chicken necks, which are easiest to tie to some string.
I’ve found that when it comes to hand lines, the cheapest options do the trick. I recommend this Hand Line on Amazon (Affiliate Link). I was surprised at how many I could buy on this Amazon listing for such a low price, which is great because you need around 6 hand lines at a time to catch a decent amount of crabs.
I was surprised at what a good price his dip net was on Amazon, for a high-quality tool (Affiliate Link). If not this one, make sure to get a net with a similar mesh that’s small. I’ve found that with wider-spaced nets, crabs like to cling on for dear life which makes them annoying to deal with.
Traps I Would Avoid
There are so many traps on the internet that websites recommend to beginner crabbers because they don’t know any better! Don’t get tricked and waste your money.
Ring Nets (A worse version of the box trap for the same price!)
A ring net is a circular net that lays flat on the bottom until you pull on its string. When you do, it takes the shape of something like a basket, trapping any poor crab caught in the middle. You’ll find these traps on clearance at your local Walmart or bait shop since no one wants them!
If you’re going to use a collapsible trap like this, stick with a box trap. They’re more durable and reliable at catching crabsfor the same price.
If you do end up using this trap, my recommendation of ring nets for blue crabs is the Hurricane Two-Ring Net (Affiliate Link). I’ve found that this is the highest-quality ring net on the market for the lowest price. It’s much cheaper than any box trap or crab pot and perfect for some hands-on crabbing.
The Hurricane Two-Ring Net is durable. Instead of the more common cotton netting ring nets that many beginner crabbers get sucked into buying, this net is made of wire mesh. While any cotton mesh net will fall apart after one or two crabbing trips, the Hurricane will stay together.
A few downsides with this ring net are the harness and lack of bait clip. The harness is made out of pretty cheap cotton string that I recommend replacing with a more durable string. Pormar made a harness for crab pots that should work perfectly here, click here to check it out on Amazon (Affiliate Link).
This ring net has no place to put your bait. Bait that gets lost in the current or stolen by crabs can ruin a crabbing trip. I’ve had some luck using a few zip ties to tie down chicken or fish (depending on what I’m using that day) to the center of the net.
One problem I’ve found with this trap is that the S-ring at the top of the harness will sometimes get caught in the wire mesh. This will prevent the net from creating a hoop-shape when you pull it up, which lets any crab in the middle to get away! I never have this problem with a box trap!
The angler must have a valid Florida freshwater fishing license or be exempt pursuant to s. 379.353, F.S.
The fish must be caught legally using an active hook-and-line method (bush hooks, snatch hooks, set lines, trotlines, etc. are excluded) in fresh waters of Florida.
If possible, keep the fish alive. If it is not possible to keep the fish alive, place it in ice water. Avoid freezing the fish because it will dehydrate causing it to lose weight. More information on how to handle and care for fish can be found at: https://www.trophycatchflorida.com/trophycare.aspx
Before contacting the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC), weigh the fish to determine if a possible state record exists and if possible, take a photograph of the fish on a scale with the weight clearly visible.
Make arrangements with the FWC to have the fish species certified by an FWC fisheries biologist, and to have an FWC employee witness the official weighing, on a certified scale and take measurements. When certifying the fish species as a largemouth bass, an FWC fisheries biologist does not have to be physically present, and the species can be certified by photograph or video, so long as an FWC employee witnesses official weighing and documentation.
FWC Regional Offices:
Northwest Region (850) 265-3676Northeast Region (352) 732-1225North Central Region (386) 758-0525Southwest Region (863) 648-3200South Region (561) 625-5122
Fill out a Freshwater State Record Fish application and have the application signed by an FWC fisheries biologist. Applications can be obtained from local FWC offices or on the internet at www.MyFWC.com/fishing.
Mail the completed application to: Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, Record Fish Program, 620 South Meridian Street, Tallahassee, FL 32399-1600.
Measurement Standards
Measure the fish’s total length and girth to the nearest one-quarter inch. Total length is measured with the mouth closed and tail fin pinched together. Girth is the measurement around the widest part of the fish (see illustration).
Weight shall be determined on a scale certified by the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services. A certified scale must meet the requirements of the National Institute of Standards and Technology and is approved by the National Type Evaluation Program. Weighing shall be done by an FWC employee and recorded to two decimal places.
To replace an existing record, versus tying one, the weight difference must EXCEED the following: (i) nearest one-quarter ounce (0.02 pounds) for fish up to five pounds, (ii) to the nearest one-half ounce (0.03 pounds) for fish more than five pounds and up to 10 pounds, and (iii) to the nearest one ounce (0.06 pounds) for fish more than 10 pounds.
If your fish does not qualify as a state record, the Big Catch Angler Recognition Program rewards anglers who catch a memorable-sized fish. Qualifying anglers receive a colorful citation showing the type of fish caught and a window sticker to proudly display their prowess. To qualify, the fish must be legally caught and exceed the specified minimum length or weight. The catch must be witnessed, and a Big Catch form completed. Details can be found on applications available at many tackle stores, FWC offices, in the Freshwater Regulations Summary, or on the internet at http://bigcatchflorida.com.
More information is provided about the various species on our Freshwater Fishes of Florida pages.
* Uncertified record. Strong evidence exists, but not all the reporting requirements were met.** Following genetic and other analyses, it is now believed that redeye bass do not exist in Florida. This record was certified prior to those studies being conducted.
You decided to go fishing, prepared everything like you usually do, but the weather changed. It is raining and you are wondering what to do?
Fishing in the rain can be done, and rainy weather can actually help you in some cases. What many people consider bad weather, is actually good for angles!
Environmental factors have a huge impact on fish. Rain affects river flows, it carries different insects and worms into the river from the riverbanks. That attracts fish which can feed on it. The same goes for lakes too …
Clouds, unlike sun, provide darker conditions during the day, and it can also be your advantage. So, this is your opportunity to profit the best you can from that situation.
Except that, while fishing in the rain, you will also need to think about your needs and how to protect yourself from cold, rain and possible dangers.
Here we will see how rain affects on different fishes, what gear to use, find out some rain tips and learn how to prepare yourself.
Depending on the season, rain can be very useful for fishing. Before I mention some tips for fishing, here are some basics.
In early spring, when the water is high and temperatures low, most of the time rain will not be your advantage.
But in warm months of the year, when water levels are lower, moderate rainfall will be the best situation for fishing adventure. The same applies to times after strong and heavy rainfalls (storms).
Very important thing to mention is to avoid fishing during heavy thunderstorms and lightning because that can be very dangerous for you.
As already mentioned, rain carries small worms and insects into the water, but also causes commotion among small living creatures in the water. This occurrence causes increase in fish activity.
Rain can also affect the water temperature, and/or blur it and darken it. In those conditions large fish can move around more than usual.
In rainy days it is good to use bigger spinners because they are more visible in the absence of sunlight and such fishing conditions. We will mention different approaches for different fish species later on.
In lakes with clear water rain will cause darker conditions and make fish more active which is good for productive fishing. Unlike rivers, lakes are prone to lack of oxygen in warm and dry months of the year. Rain will cool the water, restore some oxygen and create lower visibility for fishes, so they can’t see you and your fishing equipment.
Rain can make the water very muddy and “dense”. As rain carries living creatures into water, it can also carry large amounts of mud. Those conditions are not desirable for fishing. In that situation you should find the clearest possible spot, away from obvious mudflows from riverbanks. This problem is much bigger if you are not using a boat.
You can predict this problem if it has been raining for days prior to your fishing trip. That way you can consider possible locations before and not to use your precious fishing time for location searching.
Even the light rain can affect your fishing sucess. Together with steady light wind, it creates favorable conditions as it oxygenates the water.
Is Fishing Better Before or After Rain?
When talking about rainstorms, fishing is better before.
Before the storm and heavy rains, the barometric pressure lowers which is good for fish activity. Feeding frenzy can occur among fish and that’s the best time for you to present your bait and catch a fish, or more than one. Fish bites will come one after another!
During the storm the fish activity will slow down but that is not a problem because it is not advisable to fish in that conditions. In the end of the storm there is a very short time window in which pressure increases and fish are active. When the storm is over, fish will act the same as usual, or even be more inactive.
During summer and early fall you can benefit greatly from fishing before the storm. Also, at that time of the year very hard but not long-lasting thunderstorms are more frequent. If you want to try, and use the weather for your advantage, bass is one of the fishes that will react the most on weather changes.
If your weather predicting skills are not that good, there are numerous internet websites and weather mobile apps which are highly accurate and easy to use so that anyone can figure out the weather forecast. Or if you prefer, you can buy a simple barometer and have it with you while fishing.
Rain Will Help You Catch More Fish like Trout, Carp and Bass
Trout, carp and bass are among fish which are the most sensible on weather conditions.
Trout reacts the most to lower light, carp to oxygen level and bass to water movement, everything caused by rainy conditions. No matter which one you prefer to catch, rain will be your best friend while fishing for them.
Trout Fishing in the Rain
Absence of sunlight will make trouts more active.
In darker conditions they lurk on their prey because they are less visible to it.
Fly-fishing for trouts in the rain will work the best …
Usually, the best time to catch trouts is low light condition like early morning or evening. Clouds and rain produce similar conditions during the whole day. Rain washes insects to the water and attracts trouts, so this is the best time to present your bait. Although this time is the best for dry flies, it is also good to try fishing deeper. Small water invertebrates are also stirred up at this time, and they are important food for trouts. Sinking flies are very useful here.
Rain brings cold weather (or at least a few degrees cooler) which is great in warmer parts of the year. You all know that trout prefer coller water.
Carp Fishing in the Rain
Fishing in the rain for carp can be beneficial but also it depends on of the season.
In warmer months quick rain showers affect carps activity. They are more active before the shower. While temperature of the water is lower, like in spring, rain will cool it even more so carp will be less active. Apparently, carps are more sensitive to wind than other fish (bass for example), so if the conditions are windy try to find a sheltered spot. Carp is also very sensitive to low oxygen levels so that is the main reason it reacts to rain.
Bass Fishing in the Rain
Although fishing in the rain is good, it affects the moving patterns of fish, so in the beginning it can be hard to locate it. If you find baitfish in those conditions, there is a high chance bass is close.
Wind is also important because water motion carries small fish, so its better to go on a downwind side of the water. You can also look for natural hiding places for small fish in harsh weather. Bass will be active and look for them.
When fishing for bass in normal conditions it is important to keep your distance from the fish. While fishing in rain you re not that visible to the bass so you can be closer. That way your casting will be more precise and your lure will not make a big splash while hitting the water surface.
Try topwater baits as bass is now more active than usual. They are aggressively biting in rainy conditions so if you are using spinners they can move faster, if you are using worms, don’t keep them in one place for too long as the bass is swimming around, not lurking from its hiding place.
What is the Must Have Gear for Fishing While Raining? [Every Angler Need!]
Fishing while raining requires an investment in good rain gear.
Imagine yourself being wet and cold and not being able to use most of your fishing day.
You will need a suit and footwear which will keep you dry and warm, even in the storms.
Cheap coats or “emergency” rain suits will not do the job. You will have to visit a specialized store and pick a jacket, pants and boots or boot covers.
It is easy to stay dry while standing in place, but while moving, walking and working with your equipment you need clothes which can handle it.
Fishing Rain Suits for Fishing
There are numerous brands that you can choose from but make sure you invest in quality products.
Prices can vary but make sure it is comfortable, you can normally move in it and that it has easy accessible pockets.
The more waterproof and heavy it is the less breathable it will be, so you decide what option is the best for you.
Light ones are usually more comfortable but less durable. If you don’t care about the prices there are high-end options that combine durability, comfort and are breathable.
If you are a beginner the best option would be multi functional rain suit you can use for other outdoor activities too. Make sure that zippers, buttons and sleeve edges are tight and fit properly.
No matter which items you decide to buy, at least the basic waterproof gear is a must to protect yourself from wet weather!
How Rain Affects Water Temperature and Your Fishing?
Rain can also have a significant impact on water temperature and your fishing experience.
When it’s raining, temperature of the water tends to decrease as the precipitation cools down the surface. This drop in temperature can affect fish behavior, making them less active and harder to catch.
However, fishing in the rain can be advantageous in some cases. The raindrops create a masking effect, making it harder for fish to detect your presence. This can give you an advantage when it comes to stealthy fishing.
Additionally, if you’re fishing in an area with warmer water, the rain can bring down the temperature to a more favorable range for fish activity. While fishing during sunny weather is typically considered optimal, don’t shy away from casting your line when it’s raining as it can present unique opportunities.
Adjusting your times to fish and embracing the rain can lead to successful fishing trips.
Conclusion
Fishing in the rain can be more productive than fishing during nice and sunny days.
Most of the fish species react to rain. If you use proper gear and know your locations, most certainly you will end up having one of your best fishing days. AND don’t forget your safety and avoid lightning and thunders.
Fishing in the rain is very similar to dry conditions from the technical aspect but much more productive because of how rain affects the fish behavior. So during summer and fall don’t think twice when the forecast is “bad” because fishing is one of the rare activities which are better in rain.
Maybe you’re new to duck hunting and want to gain a basic understanding of what types of calls to bring into the blind with you. Maybe you’re a seasoned hunter but the setup you are currently running just isn’t working as well as you’d like. Regardless of the answer, there seems to be a lot of uncertainty around what calls are absolutely crucial to have on your duck lanyard, and what calls might be better left for specific circumstances.
I’m not going to lie, when I first dove head first into duck hunting, the amount of information about duck calls was pretty overwhelming. From single reeds, to doubles, to cutdowns, to J-frames, it all sounded pretty Greek to me. The truth is, it isn’t that difficult once you get a baseline of what will consistently work for you. After that, feel free to dive down the extremely deep rabbit hole that is duck calling.
In this article, I will go over four duck calls that every hunter should have around their lanyard regardless of if they are hunting flooded timber in Arkansas or corn fields in Kansas. These four calls will give you everything you need to fool those ducks into coming into your spread, and leave you with more limits, and thus, more breasts on the grill.
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The single reed duck call has long been the lifeblood of waterfowl hunters for years. With a single reed, a hunter can manipulate the sound across a wide range of tones, making it extremely versatile in all situations. I prefer a cutdown style single reed for the simple fact that I am able to hit those loud and aggressive hails and comeback calls when they are needed, but I can also create those soft quacks as the ducks are working. Regardless of where I am hunting, a single reed cutdown is always on my lanyard, and it should be on yours too.
Single Reed J-Frame
There seems to be a good deal of confusion surrounding J-frame calls. In fact, I have found that most hunters will conclude that any call that isn’t a cutdown is a J-frame, but this is the furthest thing from the truth. J-Frames get their name from how the insert is curved, creating a “J” like shape, which as a result, alters the pitch. J-Frames offer a great, nasally sound that does the best job at mimicking a more mature hen. From strictly a realistic standpoint, nothing can compare to a single reed J-frame in my opinion. Oftentimes this is the call I will use when hunting small bodies of water, and I don’t need to be quite as aggressive. But nevertheless, it’s always on my lanyard.
Double Reed Louisiana Cut (LA)
Louisiana-style calls have seemed to grow in popularity over the years, and for good reason. Similar to a J-frame, an LA-style call combines all of the internal components into one single unit that gets inserted into the barrel of the call. LA cuts are great for when you need to hit those high pitched, raspy notes, and the double reed makes it extremely user friendly, allowing for easy manipulation regardless of your skill level. There are several great options for double reed LA cuts on the market, from Singleton, to Rich-n-Tone, to Higdon.
Whistle
The versatility and the effectiveness of a duck whistle is pretty incredible, and you might have to experience it first hand to believe it. While it’s not necessarily a traditional duck call, I can use it to mimic several different duck breeds. From pintail, to wigeon to a mallard drake, you can imitate essentially any duck you are after with very little practice using a whistle. Plus, you can pick up a standard duck whistle at nearly every sporting goods store for less than $20, so why not add it to your lanyard? It will only add realism to your setup, believe me.
Duck calling is all about convincing ducks that are flying by to stop in and join the party, and that requires a little bit of persuasion. While you might see professional duck hunters have a massive and fancy calling setup, it really isn’t necessary in order to shoot birds. Add these four calls to your lanyard and you’ll be limiting out before you know it.
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