by Tom Gaylord Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Part 2 Part 3 Part 4

Walther’s Terrus rifle with synthetic stock.

This report covers:

• Quick notes
• The Terrus
• The rifle
• Sights
• Trigger
• Stock
• A threaded muzzle!
• Overall impression

Quick notes

Thank you for being patient in April. It was a busy month for me!

Now that the last event is over, I’ll get back to accuracy tests for both the Benjamin Bulldog and the Hatsan BT-65. I now have additional bullets for the Bulldog and additional pellets for the Hatsan, so this should be good. I hope to get to the range later this week with both of those rifles.

I finally got my HW 35 at the Malvern airgun show, and it came with a big surprise. The rifle has been tuned! From the feel of it, the tune was a good one; but, of course, I need to test it thoroughly to know for sure. I had plans for tuning the rifle after my basic test, but now those plans will hinge on how well the rifle is already shooting. I may leave it as it is. I hope it’s also accurate.

The Terrus

Today, I am reporting on the Walther Terrus breakbarrel air rifle because Rick Eutsler bragged about it so much when we were filming American Airgunner 2 weeks ago. I shot his Terrus, which has a wood stock, and found it to be very pleasant. It didn’t vibrate, the cocking was easy, the trigger was nice and it seemed to be accurate, though I didn’t have a chance to test it like I’m going to test this one!

One thing I really liked about Rick’s rifle was the thin forearm on the wood stock. It made the rifle feel nice and sleek in my hand — sort of like a Beeman R7, but more powerful — yet not as big and heavy as a Beeman R9. This is the kind of airgun I’ve wanted for many years, and perhaps it has finally been built.

The rifle I’m testing for you today has a black synthetic stock whose forearm is swollen like a pregnant whale. I do not like the feeling, though it’s possible to hold it near the triggerguard, where it’s slender. I wish the designers had left the stock thin when they made the molds. But at least now you know there’s a difference between the wood and synthetic stocks.

From underneath you can see how the forearm swells in the middle.

If you like a full beavertail forearm, get the synthetic stock. If you like a slim forearm, get the wood one.

Rick’s rifle, a .22 caliber, was also calm when it fired. This one I’m testing has a slight buzz. It’s not even as much as the FWB Sport, but it’s there. I’m just saying.

Rick’s rifle was easy to cock and so is the one I’m testing. His trigger was very nice and so is the one I’m testing. If the rifle I’m testing is also accurate, this will be the best market value in a breakbarrel spring gun. At $230, it will be an absolute killer of a deal.

The test rifle is also in .22 caliber. It does come in .177, as well. The test gun’s serial number is LG004249; but if it’s accurate, I plan on buying it and tuning it for you.

Here’s the deal — Umarex, are you listening? I had high hopes for the FWB Sport and was very disappointed when the rifle I tested failed to live up to its rich history — meaning the FWB 124. Suddenly, the Walther Terrus bursts on the scene with most of what I was looking for in the FWB. And the price is fantastic! If this rifle is accurate, then I can overlook the very slight buzz in the powerplant until I have the time to tune it out.

In other words, Umarex, the Terrus may be the very spring rifle I have been looking for. All it has to be now is accurate.

The rifle

The Terrus is a medium-sized breakbarrel spring rifle. It’s smaller than an R9 but seems to deliver similar power. It weighs 7.5 lbs. with the synthetic stock and is 44.25 inches long. It’s rated at 800 f.p.s. in .22, and you know I’ll test that for you. I don’t care if it launches medium-weight .22-caliber pellets at 700 f.,p.s., as long as they all go to the same place.

Sights

The Terrus has open sights! Yes, Walther saw fit to put adjustable open sights on this rifle — even at this low price point. They’re fiberoptic; but when I complained about fiberoptic sights in a Round Table session on American Airgunner, I found I was alone in my opinion. The other 3 guys seem to like them. Of course, I shoot more at targets than they do, and they use airguns for more practical things such as hunting, so I think that’s the difference. Anyhow, the Terrus has sights, and the rear sight adjusts crisply in both directions.

There are grooves in the front ramp for a hood, but no hood came with the rifle. That red fiberoptic tube is very unprotected.

There are 11mm scope grooves cut into the spring tube. And there’s a single hole for a vertical scope stop pin. So, the Terrus is ready for whatever kind of shooting you intend doing.

Trigger

The trigger is 2-stage and crisp! Thank you, Walther. There’s an adjustment for the length of the first stage travel, but that’s all — and that’s all you need. This trigger is crisp and delightful. No, it’s not a Rekord trigger, but it’s way more precise and crisper than any trigger found on similarly priced airguns. Only the now-discontinued Bronco trigger was as good.

The one trigger adjustment controls the length of the first stage.

The trigger blade is very wide and straight, which will please most shooters. But the blade is plastic, and that will invite some criticism. Actually, this kind of trigger blade isn’t part of the sear mechanism and can be made of plastic without a problem, but the traditionalists will complain.

Stock

The synthetic stock has a rough finish in a matte black. It is SOLID! No need for foam. Walther listened to their customers. Both the forearm and pistol grip have generous ares of aggressive stippling that really grips your hand. And, with the safety located in the top center of the pistol grip behind the receiver — shotgun style — this stock and rifle are 100 percent ambidextrous.

The pull is 14.25 inches, which fits most adults. The solid buttpad is a grippy black rubber with a rough surface to grab your shoulder.

A threaded muzzle!

The muzzle has a knurled steel cap that protects 1/2″ x 20 threads for a European silencer. Of course, an airgun like this is already super quiet, so a silencer won’t have much to do. But this is a feature that will play well in the UK, where the Terrus’ over 12 foot-pound power puts it into the firearms certificate (FAC) category.

There it is under the cap — a threaded muzzle. Dream of silent airguns! And, yes, it does look like the front sight comes off for use with a scope.

Overall impression

Can you tell I like this rifle? It’s more than just like — I am thrilled Walther got it so right on the first try. It’s not a gun they’ll make a lot of money with, but it’ll be one that I can get a lot of new shooters to buy because of the price. Most of the features I want are there. There are more of them in this rifle than in any other at this price. I hope it’s accurate! If it is — watch out!

Coyote hunting is my second favorite hunting sport, next to deer hunting. It’s fairly simple and doesn’t take a lot of gear to be successful.

The best time to hunt Coyotes is a winter morning or evening. Coyotes are desperate to eat in winter and respond well to food calls both day and night. It’s also easier to spot coyotes in winter after the cover brush has died back. Winter is the most forgiving time to hunt coyotes and a great time for beginners to start.

So, how do you find success consistently and how do you maximize your chances? I’ll go over nighttime vs daytime hunting, and what you can do to find good coyotes all year long.

The 3 Most Likely Seasons For a Succesfull Coyote Hunt

The most productive coyote hunts are usually in Winter, early Spring, and late Summer. Winter is when Coyotes are most hungry. Early Spring is mating season and mature males are easier to lure in. Late summer is when pups have matured and ventured out on their own, lacking experience.

The vast majority of coyote hunters agree that the easiest time to call in a mature coyote is during the height of winter. In winter, food is scarce and it takes more food to keep up their body temperature, so they get desperate.

Coyotes are usually far more willing to respond to a basic distress call in winter than any other time of year. And, they tend to respond much quicker. Hunger is the main driving force of nature and coyotes are no exception. When they get hungry, they will start taking big chances.

Early spring, February -March, males are looking for a mate. All you have to do is sound convincing. This is the one thing that takes precedence over finding a meal. A male coyote may forgo eating for days when on the trail of a female.

If you’re after a large, thick fur, this is probably the best chance of that. Furs are still in their prime from winter, and the wariest old coyotes lose all inhibition when looking for a mate.

The Fall hunt is when the woods and fields are filled with young male coyotes that just left their mother’s side. Their lack of experience makes them pretty vulnerable to calling in. But, they do learn quickly.

How to Hunt Coyotes in Winter.

Winter is the easiest time to spot a coyote. It’s also the easiest time to lure them in with a food call. by that, I mean something like the rabbit distress or woodpecker distress call. Replicate the sound of a free meal and it’s hard for a coyote to resist.

Besides the increase of food motivation, winter is an easy time to spot a coyote. Particularly if there is a light snow cover. Coyotes may seem light-colored most of the year, but they look like a large dark spot against a white, snowy field.

Plus, after the grasses have died back and the brush has lost its leaves, it’s only easier to spot a sneaking coyote. You’d be shocked to know how many coyotes are called in but never seen in the summer months.

You may think that since coyotes are easy to spot in winter, you would be too. I find it easier to hide in winter, particularly if it’s snowy. Snow camouflage hides extremely well against a snowy background. I have hunted with as little as a white sheet covering me. It’s pretty basic really.

My favorite method is to dig a hole in the snow and cover it up with my white snow poncho. I’m 90 percent below the snow and covered well. Nothing can see me then.

If you Live in a sane climate and don’t have snow, You’ll need to use something else to break up your outline like a tree or bush, unless you are hunting during a dark night.

My biggest tip to hunting coyotes in winter is to bring hand warmers. Hand warmers will keep your fingers able to operate your call and your trigger. I always carry two or three. Generally, they don’t get used, but sometimes they’re a lifesaver.

I actually know a guy who saved his life with hand warmers. During a negative 20-degree day in the Montanna mountains, he went through the ice on a lake. After crawling out, his fingers were unable to work his lighter to light a fire. He used about 15 hand warmers to bring up his body temperature from freezing.

Hunting Coyotes in Early Spring

Hunting coyotes in early Spring means learning to use howl calls. You can use The Lone Howl effectively. The Lone Howl is just a male announcing his presence in the area. That’s a good way to bring in a territorial, seasoned male.

Another great call is the Female howl, which is a higher pitch, just letting other dogs know who’s around. Finally, there are the Female Whimpers. The Whimpers is an estrus call, letting males know it’s now or never.

I personally don’t like the early Spring hunt because I often end up soaking wet. If the weather is right, cold and dry, I’ll be out hunting. If the snow is all melting and it may rain, no thank you.

In early spring, you may need to wear winter camouflage. If there isn’t any snow you’ll probably want a really good brown or tan, since you will be trying to blend in with whatever is on the ground. Of all the times to bring a hunting seat, Spring is it. Otherwise, you may end up with a really cold, wet caboose.

Hunting Late Sumner Coyotes

The Late Summer hunt is When you can find more coyotes, but they tend to be smaller. It is probably the second easiest time to call coyotes, and it’s easier to hunt in fall than in a cold winter. Most of the coyotes shot in late Summer are males, as they travel out and claim their own territory.

Late summer is certainly not for everyone. I enjoy a hot August day hunting coyotes. But my brother in Texas, not so much. If you don’t mind the heat, it’s a great time to find some mid-season success.

Another point here is that young coyotes don’t follow all the “rules”. Things like approach from downwind and approach cautiously from a position of cover; yeah they don’t always apply here. Be sure to keep your eyes moving and stay alert. They may be young and stupid but are still sneaky and quick.

If done right, territorial calls work well in this season. But, most hunters stick to the standard distress calls, for the most part, changing up only when things aren’t working as planned.

Although the late Summer season is filled with foolish young males, do your best not to tip them off. Try to keep still, quiet, and keep your scent down.

Coyotes are More Active Just Before Dawn

Coyotes are fairly nocturnal creatures and do most of their hunting under the cover of darkness when it’s easier to sneak. The most active time in my experience has been within a few hours of sunrise. But, coyotes are fairly active all night long.

Nighttime is generally when coyotes are hunting and making social calls. That behavior starts just after sundown, and it ends just before the sun comes up. Most of the activity is often at the beginning, or the end of an all-night hunt.

Camo isn’t that big of an issue when hunting at night. I’ve seen hunters go out in a black hoodie and come back with several dogs. you just need to be quiet. There is less ambient noise at night, and sound travels further in cooler air so coyotes will hear you easier.

Nighttime hunting requires either good lights or a basic night vision setup. Nightvision is more effective and much simpler than hassling around with lights. I don’t really recommend hunting with lights for coyotes, but some people do it regularly.

Lights can get the job done but are hard to work with and don’t tend to be productive in more hunted areas. A basic night vision like the SightMark Wraith costs around $450 and it’s a good scope for daytime use too.

Really, all you need is a gun and a night vision scope. A tripod or bipod helps a lot. It keeps the rifle steady and gets it above the level of grass and brush so you can make a clear shot.

If you aren’t into nighttime hunting, it may sound daunting and too complicated. Truth is, it’s kinda easier than hunting in the day, just because it’s easier for you to stay hidden.

I wrote a full-length article on Backfire about nighttime coyote hunting. Here’s a link to it.

Coyotes are Mostly Nocturnal, But not Completely

Coyotes are somewhat active during the day, and many are shot in daylight hours. They are much easier to spot in daylight, and shots are easier to make. a coyote can come in at any time, day or night.

It’s only been recent that nighttime hunting has become popular. It always used to be that coyotes were hunted nearly exclusively in the day. That changed as the tactical crowd started making night vision scopes more common.

Today, there are possibly more nighttime hunters than daylight hunters. And, because the price of quality night vision keeps going down, it’s something most people can do.

I still hunt mostly in the day, because hunting all night on the weekend messes me up come Monday. It works, and you have to do what works for you. Tons of coyotes are shot during the day.

Is it Better to Hunt Coyotes in the Morning or the Evening?

Early morning is often the best time of day to hunt coyotes. Depending on your area, it could be better in the evening, but most hunters prefer the morning hunt. Coyotes can be active all day, and you need to be vigilant at all times during a hunt.

There really isn’t a magic time to hunt coyotes. Like the old adage says, the best time to hunt is when you can go. It really falls down to personal preference, and whether or not you want to buy night vision. If staying out late isn’t going t work for you, that’s fine. Just hunt in the day. It works.

Coyote Hunting in Warm vs Cold Weather.

When hunting in the winter, it’s acceptable to call aggressively. In warm weather, you can call too much and scare away coyotes. Expect coyotes to be more forgiving and less wary in cold-weather, and more cautious in summer.

Being in Michigan, I know about cold. Cold isn’t usually the issue. The winter problems are moisture and wind. Consider carrying a neoprene ski mask in your pocket in case the wind comes up.

The biggest difference is how you dress. In winter, you need to stay warm and dry. You have to be fairly concerned with water repellent outerwear, and moisture-wicking or breathable underwear. Being cold and wet will kill any hunt.

If you start to sweat on your way to your hunting spot, unzip your jacket and/or take your hat off to cool down. Perspiration can make you cold when you sit down and stop moving.

If you can handle hunting in cold weather, go for it. It’s usually more productive. Just maybe bring an extra pair of socks in case your feet get wet.

The other concern is your calls. Mouth calls can freeze up, and electronic calls can have issues with freezing batteries. Prevent your mouth calls from freezing up by putting it in an inside pocket, or tucking it inside your sleeve. If it’s incredibly frigid, warm up your caller’s battery every hour in your car.

The most important accessory for coyote hunting in warm weather is bug spray. Mosquitoes or blackflies can eat you alive and make it impossible to sit still. I like the 99 or 98 percent DEET stuff. Don’t overdress, and bring water because you’ll sweat a lot.

If you avoid wearing dark colors and sit in the shade, you should be fine anywhere outside of Death Valley. I’ll also note that rifles shoot higher in the heat. Hot air creates less resistance on the bullet and increases the chamber pressure. That makes the bullet a bit flatter shooting.

The opposite is also true. Bullets lose energy quicker and start out with a tad less pressure in cold weather. Be sure to check your rifle’s zero at least in the season of your hunt.

Also, do you know why desert coyotes howl at night? It’s because they can’t see the cactuses ahead after sundown.

And now, I take my leave.

This delicious pan-seared rockfish is made with fish seared in butter and oil, and then served with a lemon and caper pan sauce.

This year has had its ups and downs, but for us there has been one constant.

We’ve had a freezer full of amazing seafood.

Since we knew we’d be home (not traveling) for quite some time, we signed up for monthly seafood deliveries from a CSF (community supported fishery).

And guys, it’s made the year a little bit easier.

If you’re looking for a CSF to join, I can highly recommend the one we joined, Sitka Salmon Shares.

One of our monthly fish deliveries included black rockfish (or black bass). We immediately made blackened rockfish tacos (yum!), but next I wanted to try a recipe where I could taste the rockfish more clearly.

This pan-seared rockfish is based on one of my all-time favorite fish recipes, Julia Child’s fish meunière (fish in butter sauce), and is served with an easy lemon caper sauce.

Looking for more white fish recipes? Try these: pan-seared lingcod, baked lingcod with tomato caper sauce, broiled cod, broiled halibut, pan-seared halibut, pan-seared hake, and halibut tacos.

What Does Rockfish Taste Like?

It depends on the type of rockfish you’re buying!

The black rockfish I used was a mild, flaky fish.

In the past, I’ve purchased Pacific rockfish at Aldi that had a somewhat stronger flavor profile. It was still quite tasty.

Can I Make This Pan-Seared Rockfish Gluten-Free?

Yes, absolutely!

Before pan-searing the rockfish, you’ll dust the fish with flour. All-purpose gluten-free flour, such as Cup 4 Cup, will work perfectly.

Can I Skip the Flour?

Yes, you can.

The sear on the fish will be slightly less golden.

How to Make Pan-Seared Rockfish

Start by patting the fish dry and lightly dusting it with flour. Season the fish with salt and set aside.

Next, heat butter and olive oil in a heavy pan. I like to use this Lodge 12″ carbon steel skillet.

Place the fish into the pan, and avoid trying to move the fish. Don’t touch it yet.

After about three minutes, use a metal spatula to test the fish. Ideally, use a fish spatula.

I use this Wusthof fish spatula, but have also heard good things about this OXO fish spatula.

Try to slide the spatula under the fish.

If the rockfish releases easily from the pan, flip it. If it doesn’t, try again in a few seconds.

It will release when the bottom of the fish is done cooking.

After you flip the fish, top each fillet with a little more butter.

Cook the rockfish for another couple minutes, and then remove it from the pan.

How to Make the Pan-Sauce

To make the sauce, add lemon juice and capers to the hot pan.

Use a wooden spoon to stir, scraping up any bits of fish stuck to the pan. Stir in some fresh herbs, and it’s ready!

Top the pan-seared rockfish with the lemon caper pan-sauce and a few more fresh herbs.

I like to serve this rockfish along with French mashed potatoes and a haricot vert salad.

Muzzleloaders, like firearms, benefit greatly from load experimentation. That doesn’t mean you’re weighing charges to 1/10-grain accuracy on a digital powder scale. Rather, it implores that you shouldn’t be satiated with the generic, 100-grain/vol. load consisting of two .50 caliber, 50-grain/vol. black powder substitute pellets. The prudent choice is to “work up” loads incrementally, as well as tryout “new-for-you” propellants. Until you do, you’ll never know what your muzzleloader is truly capable of. So, what’s the best option for you and your muzzleloader? Read on.

Black PowderA staple for traditionalists, authentic black powder is an option for the modern muzzleloader hunter, too. Thanks to its simple, albeit sensitive, composition consisting of charcoal, potassium nitrate and sulfur, true black powder is easily ignited, which is why—in its FFFFg size—it’s used for priming flintlocks’ pans. That last ingredient, however, is the reason that black powder produces its infamous “rotten egg” smell (once fired). Black powder is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb moisture from the air if exposed to it. As such, it’s not the best choice for humid environs or wet conditions. Concerning its sensitivity, black powder is classified as an “explosive,” hence the reason you don’t find it on the shelves of big-box stores or smaller gun shops. It can be easily and inexpensively ordered online, though.

When uniformly measured (volumetrically), premium black powder, such as Swiss, offers excellent shot-to-shot consistency for superb accuracy with respectable velocities. The tradeoff, though, is dirtiness. Black powder is terribly inefficient, leaving much highly corrosive residue remaining after each shot. This must be cleaned in short order, otherwise the muzzleloader will assuredly be ruined. Moreover, subsequent shots without swabbing the bore result in especially difficult loading—made worse with tight-fitting sabots. Cleaning, though, requires no fancy cleaning products; instead, just soap and water, followed by a coating of rust preventative. I favor Ballistol.

Offered in multiple grain sizes, FFg is best suited to the utilitarian, .50 caliber muzzleloader. Popular brands include Swiss, Goex and Goex Olde Eynsford, and Graf & Sons.

Pros: Consistent (when uniformly measured); Accurate; Easy to ignite (works in flintlocks, sidelocks and inlines); Less costly than most black powder replacements.

Cons: More difficult to find; Dirty; Smells awful; Inefficient; Highly corrosive; Hygroscopic.

Black Powder SubstitutesFew inline muzzleloader hunters today venture into the realm of black powder—and for good reason. Black powder substitutes—which are not classified as “explosive,” but rather fast-burning “smokeless powder” (i.e. propellant)—offer many of the benefits of the elder without most of the detractions. These vary depending on the specific product. For example, the original black powder replacement, Pyrodex, gives a boost in external ballistics when compared to identical black powder charges; however, since it contains sulfur, the same post-shot stink is present. Pyrodex is slightly more difficult to ignite than black powder, but it can still be employed in same muzzleloaders. Pyrodex is somewhat hygroscopic, as well as corrosive—don’t clean your muzzleloader in a timely manner and it’ll rust for sure. Soap and water will remove any Pyrodex residue.

While Pyrodex RS continues to occupy a sizable portion of retailers’ shelves, as is especially evident by the heavily discounted prices of the numerous leftovers come the end of hunting season. Many muzzleloader hunters have made the switch to the newer substitutes. Hodgdon Triple-Se7en was the first such new-generation propellant. Not only did Triple-Se7en offer improved external ballistics, but the rotten-egg smell was jettisoned, too; in fact, that was a major marketing point for Hodgdon. It’s still highlighted on the label. Since that propellant debuted, many other powders have emerged. Today, there are several options outside of Hodgdon Triple-Se7en, such as Alliant Black MZ (now discontinued, but still can be found for sale), Accurate BlackHorn 209 and American Pioneer Powder (APP).

Alliant Black MZ is among my favorites, and I’m sad to see it go. Manufactured by APP to Alliant’s specifications, Black MZ has a lot to offer—good efficiency (i.e. external ballistics for a given charge) and shot-to-shot consistency (think accuracy), simple, stink-free, water-soap clean up, easy ignition (can be ignited by my No. 11 percussion caps), it’s non-hygroscopic, has very minimal corrosiveness and is reasonably.

Accurate BlackHorn 209 has many of the same attributes as Alliant Black MZ and then some. Per a given charge, BlackHorn 209 will provide the highest velocities of all black powder replacements. It’s also consistent in granule size for precise measuring, as well as leaves minimal, non-corrosive residue. This eases the cleaning process and negates swabbing between shots. Subsequent loading is easygoing. It’s also minimally hygroscopic, and the shelf life of the product is consistent with smokeless propellants without clumping. But there are a couple things to consider before purchasing BlackHorn 209.

First, your muzzleloader must have a breechplug with an enclosed 209 primer. Most new muzzleloaders do, though. Next, you’ll need to use standard 209 shotshell primers for ignition, forego muzzleloader-specific primers. According to Accurate, also incompatible are No. 11 percussion caps, musket caps and rifle/pistol primers. You cannot exceed a 120-grain charge, either, though you really don’t need to. Oil-based cleaners, such as those used on your modern firearm, are used to clean BlackHorn 209, not water. Lastly, a 10 oz. container of BlackHorn 209 will cost you around 10 dollars more than a full pound of the other black powder replacements. Many muzzleloader shooters and hunters believe the cost is justified.

Pros: Superb external ballistics; Consistent; Accurate; Easy to clean; Low residue; No smell (except Pyrodex); Easier to purchase; Less corrosive (except Pyrodex).

Cons: More expensive; Muzzleloader specific (BlackHorn 209)

Pelletized PowderEase of convenience is what sells pelletized black powder replacements. The process cannot be simpler—drop the pellet(s) in the barrel, firmly seat a bullet atop and then add the ignition source. Done! There’s no powder to measure or spill. Sounds great, right? Sure, but are you getting peak performance from your muzzleloader?

Unlike the aforementioned loose powder, pellets offer minimal load customization. With regard to accuracy, you get what you get—your gun will shine or be “so-so.” Fact is, many muzzleloader hunters are okay with “so-so” performance. By purchasing 30- and 50-grain/vol.-equivalent .50 caliber pellets, you can venture beyond the utilitarian 100-grain/vol. load. But, outside of online outlets, finding those 30-grain/vol., .50 caliber pellets is quite difficult. Loose powder offers the muzzle hunter far better load customization options, and thus performance.

Pelletized powder has many of the same advantages and disadvantages of loose powder. Since ignition on most new inline muzzleloaders is the ubiquitous 209 shotshell primer, lighting off pellets isn’t a problem. But for older No. 11 percussion cap models, such as original, unaltered Knight Rifles, Pyrodex pellets are the best choice. Why? Featuring a ring of black powder on their base, the pellets are easily ignited by No. 11 caps. By using them, though, you’ll be rewarded with the consequences of black powder and Pyrodex outlined earlier.

Choices of pelletized powder include Hodgdon Pyrodex, Triple-Se7en and Triple-Se7en Magnum, IMR White Hots and Alliant’s new Blue-MZ—a replacement for the discontinued Black MZ.

Pros: Same as Above

Cons: Same as Above

As big-game hunting seasons are winding down in most states, it’s time to look ahead to next year. That leaves you plenty of time to experiment. What will be your muzzleloader’s “go juice”?

“Now the work begins” is an adage that resonates in my mind each time I recover a deer I’ve arrowed. Rarely have I dropped deer in places I can drive to with my Chevy. More often they fall in hard-to-reach places far from the nearest road. And that, my friend, is “work” no matter how you slice it. Of course, I love venison and I’m not complaining. But I’ve ended my share of successful bowhunts with pins-and-needles back pain, a parched mouth and sore feet. Yes, taking a deer can mean hours of laborious work, especially if you travel to bowhunt and are faced with completing the job solo.

Fortunately, outdoor companies are ramping up their offerings to provide bowhunters like you and me with products that simplify the entire recovery process. Let’s review five of them now.

Hawk Hunting Crawler

In locations where ATVs aren’t allowed, especially on public lands, a quality deer cart is a must-have item. Hawk’s Crawler is one of the market’s finest. 360° Dual Pivoting Axles with large wheels provide the sturdiness to be pulled over obstacles such as logs and rocks. Never Flat Tires are filled with micro-cellular polyurethane foam for reliability in varied terrain. The Crawler’s heavy-duty steel frame boasts a stunning 500-pound weight rating. Now, your deer cart can double to haul gear and firewood to remote camping areas.

MSRP: $149.99

Hawkhunting.com

Viking Solutions SwiveLift

Viking Solutions’ SwiveLift is truly a back-saver. Designed to help individuals load deer into a truck bed using a platform and hand winch, all parts of the SwiveLift incorporate powder-coated steel for the durability your hard-earned dollars deserve. The setup weighs 54 pounds, yet lifts objects up to 300 pounds with minimal user effort. Not only can the SwiveLift load deer, but other bulky objects such as coolers that would typically require another person’s strength and stamina. Once you winch your deer to tailgate height, simply pull it off the platform and into your truck bed. It’s that simple.

MSRP: $169.95

Vikingsl.com

Allen Dual Harness Deer Drag

Dragging is the most basic way to get your deer out of the woods, and economically, the price is right (it’s free).

However, one inexpensive gadget that removes strain from hands and arms is the Dual Harness Deer Drag by Allen. The harness’ waist belt and shoulder straps feature beefy 2-inch web material, and the harness is hunter orange for safety during open firearm seasons. A sternum strap further enhances the harness’ effectiveness. A steel D-Ring connects the harness to the drag rope. The best part: The Dual Harness Deer Drag fits conveniently in your daypack.

MSRP: $10.49

Byallen.com

Trophy Tow All-Terrain Transport Sled

This functional sled is constructed from heavy-duty plastic that simply glides across the ground. The sled can be pulled by hand or with an ATV. It includes heavy-duty ratchets that quickly tighten the sides of the sled around your deer to protect it during transportation.

The Trophy Tow All-Terrain Transport Sled includes a weather-resistant carrying bag with a shoulder strap for storage and transportation to the field.

MSRP: $47.99

Cabelas.com

Koola Buck Anti-Microbial Deer Quarter Bags

Mule deer and western whitetail hunters: packing out your kill is a real possibility. Doing it quickly ensures fresh results, and the proper meat bags will decrease or eliminate possible contaminants from contacting your precious venison.

And in the environments where we handle venison, bacteria abound. Enter Koola Buck Anti-Microbial Deer Quarter Bags. Each package contains four large 8 x 40 stretch bags infused with a proprietary blend of all-natural and tasteless bacterial inhibitors. Koola Buck Game Bags reduce spoilage-causing bacteria by up to eight times more than competing game bags. You worked hard for your shot, now protect your meat for the pack out with Anti-Microbial Deer Quarter Bags from Koola Buck!

MSRP: $24.99

Koolabuck.com

Here are 3 Types Of Ax Options (Plus Multiple Reviews) For Off-Roading and Overlanding

As Brenan mentioned in his Every Day Carry article way back in November of ’17, an ax is a great accessory for Overlanding and general camping use. Choosing an ax can be rather daunting. There are a wide variety of designs for both general and specialized purposes.

Much of the selection process comes down to what tasks you want the ax to help you accomplish, and your preferences in construction, quality, and feel. What follows are some quick reviews of axes I’ve used in over the past two decades, as well as some features that may be useful for vehicle-based camping.

What to Consider?

The first thing to consider is what size and type of ax you are looking for.

They come in many different lengths, styles, materials, and handles. Depending on how you travel, explore and carry your gear will contribute to what type of tool you need. By definition, a hatchet is really just a light-weight ax but then you have compact axes, compact hatchets, tomahawks, and many others.

Whether compact or full-size, an ax can and will come in handy for most of us off-roaders or overlanders out there. First, decide on how you intend on using the ax. Are you looking to split logs at camp or clear branches on the trail? Take a look at the list below and determine which style and material you relate with. Then check out our reviews below and let us know your thoughts in the comments section.

Styles:

• Full-size Ax
• Tomahawk Ax
• Compact Ax
• Splitting Ax
• Hatchet Ax
• Compact Hatchet Ax
• Multi-Tool Axes

Materials

• Steel
• Composite
• Wood

Option 1. Composite Handled Axes & Hatchets

Gerber is an American-based subsidiary of Fiskars, a Finnish company perhaps best known for their pruning shears and other cutting tools that boast orange handles.

As a side note, the popular Fiskars pruning shears are actually a great option throw in your overland gear bag as well. They are small, nimble and really get the job done when it comes to small brush branches.

In years past, Fiskars made composite handled axes under both nameplates in Finland. The handles wrap around, rather than pass through, the ax head. Fiskars advertising appears to be directed toward yard care, whereas Gerber leans more toward the outdoors.

The primary distinguishing feature, however, is handle color.

Gerber or Fiskar Hatchets?

• Gerber: Check Price
• Fiskars: Check Price

The Fiskars hatchet in the photo above is now almost two decades old. Levy’s, a Canadian leathercraft manufacturer, made the sheath in the picture. It lives in a toolbox in my 4Runner now but has been a useful companion on many backpacking trips over the years. On a wilderness survival training experience for teachers near Alaska wherein it somehow was the only cutting tool to arrive in camp, the little Fiskars even held its own splitting driftwood.

For a few years, I used a Gerber Sport Ax, which featured a longer handle and heavier head than the Fiskars hatchet. Unfortunately, it disappeared during one of my moves between villages. The model has since been replaced in Gerber’s lineup by the Sport Ax II. If you are looking for an ultra-compact hatchet, take a look at the Gerber Pack Hatchet Camping Axe.

Even more aggressive in their lineup of composite axes is the Gerber Downrange Tomahawk. Although it is not an “axe” it sure is close. It packs a steel frame with a Cerakote coating and is finished with a composite handle. The multi-tool has three functions; Axe, Hammer Head, and Pry Bar with integrated prying handle. This is a robust and pricy option.

Gerber Hatchets and Axes

• Gerber Sport Axe II: Check Price
• Gerber Pack Hatchet Camping Axe: Check Price
• Gerber Downrange Tomahawk: Check Price

Both Fiskars and Gerber offer a variety of useful axes for overlanding use. My preferences lean strongly toward wood-handled axes, but the utility and durability of composite-handled axes are undeniable.

Browning’s Tomahawk-Like Axes for Limbing and Light Chopping

In contrast to the Finnish offerings mentioned above, Browning’s ax offerings are limited to the Outdoorsman’s Ax and Outdoorsman’s Compact Hatchet.

For all practical purposes, only the former has any real utility for overlanding. I’ve owned an older version of this ax for about a decade, but have used it sparingly. The 24” handle is of similar construction to the Finnish axes, but the tang of the handle passes through the ax head instead of wrapping around the head. Browning describes the head as a tomahawk design, and it does an exceptional job with limbing and light chopping duties.

Find It Online:

• Browning’s Outdoorsman’s Composite-Handled Ax: Check Price
• Browning’s Outdoorsman’s Compact Hatchet: Check Price

Overall, this is a lightweight, durable ax at a fair price – a worthy rival to the Fiskars/Gerber duo – so why don’t I use mine more often? The answer comes down to personal preference. To me, the Estwing – and especially the Helko Werk Black Forest Worker reviewed below – just feel better to use.

Option 2. All-Steel Axes

Providing perhaps the best value in a high quality, high utility camp ax, the Estwing Camper’s Ax from the Estwing All Steel Ax Lineup is positively boring in its durability.

The made in the USA Camper’s Ax is unique among the offerings in this review in being of all-steel construction. This means the head and handle are one solid forged piece. The Camper’s Ax comes with either an 18.75” or 26” handle and a shock-reducing rubber grip. A black powder-coated special edition is also available.

Find It Online:

• Estwing Made in the USA Camper’s All-Steel Ax (26″): Check Price
• Estwing Camper’s Axe – 16″ Hatchet: Check Price

Lightweight All-Steel Ax For Serious Wood Splitting

The Camper’s Ax has quite a following in Alaska among people who depend on their tools for more than recreational use. Well-used examples adorn boats, ATVs, and snowmobiles throughout the backcountry. My own example survived being run over by a snowmobile and thoroughly abused by students in a wilderness survival class. It could use a thorough cleaning and some love from a file, but I know it’s still good for decades of use.

The Camper’s Ax is on the light side for serious splitting but is an outstanding all-around choice for limbing and felling duties. If you want an ax that can take a lot of abuse and requires minimal care in return, the Camper’s Ax is an excellent choice.

Other useful offerings from Estwing include the Sportsman’s Ax and the Fireside Friend. The Sportsman’s Ax is essentially a hatchet-length version of the Camper’s Ax, while the Fireside Friend is a lightweight, short-handled splitter.

Option 3. Wood-Handled Axes

One of the premier names among ax aficionados, Gransfors Bruk has an impeccable reputation for quality.

These are heirloom-caliber gear. They offer a wide catalog of specialized axes and accessories. Master craftsmen in Sweden forge these axes and mark the one they produce with their initials.

Leather Sheath For Gransfors Bruk Axes

Each ax comes with a reference book, which allows the buyer to see which craftsman made their individual ax. A leather sheath is included, but buyers may want to consider upgrading to a Beneath the Stars sheath after their purchase, as it is a more durable design. The hickory handle features subtle finger grooves for maintaining grip in wet weather or while wearing gloves.

Find It Online:

• Beneath the Stars Sheath: Check Price

Gransfor Bruk Hunter’s Ax

The Hunter’s Ax has long been a personal favorite, but my much-used example lives in my hunting pack rather than my 4Runner. Its most unique feature, a flay poll that aids in skinning large ungulates, has limited utility for overlanding chores. The Hunter’s Ax is a highly capable work of art, but there are better choices for camping.

Find It Online:

• Gransfor Bruk Wood-Handled Hunter’s Ax: Check Price

Gransfor Bruk Splitting Hatchet

The Splitting Hatchet packs a lot of firewood splitting power in a compact package that fits readily in toolboxes or backpacks.

It features a 19” handle that can be wielded in one hand or both. The head weighs 3.3 pounds, with a thin face that broadens quickly to aid in forcing the wood apart. A protective steel collar at the base of the head guards against damage to the handle from overstrikes. This is an outstanding ax for splitting small quantities of firewood, especially for camp stoves.

Find It Online:

• Gransfor Bruk Wood-Handled Splitting Hatchet: Check Price

Hand-Crafted Helko Werk’s Wood-Handled Axes

Another high-quality European brand, Helko Werk’s axes are forged in Wuppertal, Germany.

Much like Gransfors Bruk, Helko Werk employs master smiths who handcraft each individual piece. While these craftsmen and women obviously take pride in their work, they do not press their initials are pressed into the ax heads.

Helk Werk’s Black Forest Woodworker Ax

The Black Forest Woodworker may be the most versatile ax I own. It certainly has seen the most use during my time in Alaska. The slightly exaggerated sweep of the blade face (a feature of Rheinland pattern ax heads) makes it ideal for limbing and falling smaller trees, and it is more than capable of light splitting duty.

Find It Online:

• Helk Werk’s Black Forest Woodworker Ax: Check Price

24″ American Hickory Handle Replacements

At 24”, the American hickory handle fits without complaint in a canoe or on an ATV rack. Mine is on its second handle after a certain dog thought it would make the perfect chew toy. Fortunately, replacement handles are available on the website. If you want an all-around ax that matches the Estwing Camp Ax in utility but has a bit more character, this may be the ax for you.

Helk Werk’s Spaltaxt Wood-Splitting Ax

The Spaltaxt is easier to use than it is to pronounce.

A mid-weight ax with a 4.5-pound dual-wedge head, the Spaltaxt is a wood splitting fiend. The extra wedge prevents the head from getting stuck, while the 28” handle yields enough leverage to get the job done without taking up excessive space. If your overlanding adventures require frequent splitting, this is one of the best tools for the job.

Find It Online:

• Helko Werk’s Spaltaxt Wood-Splitting Ax: Check Price

Final Thoughts

I must confess, I am a bit of a geek for axes, so choosing just one to recommend may be more difficult for me than for others.

Perhaps the best recommendation I can make is to visit hardware and sporting goods stores and see how the various offerings feel in your hands. This is one piece of equipment best purchased in person rather than online.

It’s a dreaded feeling and one none of us like to think about, but it happens. You think you hit the liver.

However, it’s not all doom and gloom. While a liver shot may not be what you were going for, it is still within the kill zone.

The important part is, are you sure it’s a liver shot, and what to do next.

What is a Deer Liver Shot?

As the name suggests, a deer liver shot is a deer you hit in the liver. It happens more often than you might think.

Due to the deers’ anatomy, the liver sits within what is known as the kill zone.

The liver runs just behind the lungs on a perfect broadside deer and is almost the same length from top to bottom.

In this scenario, your shot would have to be a little far back to hit the liver. But this changes depending on the position of the deer.

A quartering to or away deer will put the liver in different positions in relation to your shot.

Identifying a Deer Liver Shot

The first thing to do if you think you hit the liver is to run through a few checks to double-check. It’s important not to skip this step.

Ideally, you should run through this for all of your shots unless the deer drops in front of you.

Tracking a deer with a liver shot is likely to push him far beyond what you can track.

Position

Not all of us record our hunts, but something like a Go Pro is a handy tool to have.

Not only can you assess your hunt, but in times like this, you can also see where your arrow landed.

If you feel your arrow hit near the center of the deer, towards the back of the ribcage, then it is likely you hit the liver.

Judging by the ribcage is the best indicator of whether you hit the liver or not.

As I mentioned above, the position of the deer changes your arrow penetration angle a lot. So what might look like a perfect lung shot on a quartering away deer may actually be a liver shot.

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Sound

Sound is a difficult method of judging shots, but if you are paying attention, it can really be useful.

Often in the heat of the moment, we don’t pay attention to the sound of the impact.

However, it can tell a lot about a shot.

A liver shot makes quite a thud, and if you hear it, you will know exactly what it means.

It’s almost like a hollow sound but with some substance behind it, like a smack.

Deer Reaction

Often a liver shot deer is identifiable by the deers’ reaction alone. However, this does vary from deer to deer.

In most cases, a liver shot deer will start to run but stop after about 100 yards. They proceed to walk after this or even come to a standstill.

Some deer will bed down after about 200 yards, and some can make it out to 500 plus yards before bedding down.

Blood Trail

The best tell-tale sign of all is the blood trail. However, the downside of this is with a liver shot.

Often liver shots produce little or spotty blood.

If it was indeed a liver shot, the blood would be very dark and as mentioned, potentially very sparse with only a few drops here and there.

The blood will usually have a thick consistency and disappear very fast.

What to do after a Deer Liver Shot

This is where things get tricky. Assuming you read all of the above and are certain of a liver shot then you are fine, because I can tell you to wait 4-9 hours, and you are sure of a recovery.

However, where things go wrong for people after a liver shot is A; they are not sure it was a liver shot or B; they didn’t care to check and went after the deer too soon.

A liver shot will always prove fatal for a deer, but many liver shot deer are not recovered.

This is not because they didn’t die, but because an eager hunter didn’t wait.

The deer still died, but probably 3 counties over or in cover so thick you wouldn’t think it was possible to get into it.

If in doubt, hang back. You will find most liver-shot deer within 500 yards of where you shot him if you wait.

This will allow the deer to bed down, which they usually quickly do after a liver shot.

Come back in 5 or 6 hours, and you’re sure to find your deer just outside the blood trail.

If the weather isn’t favorable, you could start tracking him earlier, but I would at least wait four hours.

I would only wait less than four hours on a suspected liver shot if I saw the deer fall in front of me.

Although in this scenario, it’s likely you’ve clipped one lung alongside the liver.

Final Thoughts

Most hunters are going for that sweet spot, heart – double lung, but it doesn’t always work out like that.

A liver shot isn’t a bad shot, it may not be your greatest, but it’s still a kill shot.

If you suspect a liver shot, back off and wait for at least four hours before tracking, and if you do, it’s likely your deer will be less than 500 yards from where you hit him.

When it comes custom rod building and fishing in general, cork will always be a popular grip because of its traditional look and classic feel on any fishing rod. With that said, the big knock against cork is its tendency to slough, erode, and chip over time, but just one coat of U-40 Cork Seal will prevent these factors and so much more.

Whether installing a traditional cork grip or the more inventive cork checkerboard handle, each initially look great, but the wear and tear of constant fishing will do significant damage to the cork itself. Protecting the cork’s surface is crucial to preserving its initial look and extending the cork’s lifespan. The ultimate protector of cork, U-40 Cork Seal works by sealing the cork’s surface to maintain the natural look and enhance the cork’s grip.

Sealing the Cork Grip

While out on the water, cork grips contact all sorts of damaging contaminants. From fish guts and mud to the very oil on our hands, cork is constantly exposed to harmful materials in the fishing environment. These materials penetrate the cork’s semi-porous structure causing unfortunate deterioration.

By sealing the cork’s surface, U-40 Cork Seal outworks the damaging materials to in turn preserve the cork look and feel fishermen love. The cork soaks up the U-40 Cork Seal to prevent the worst of oil, mud, water, fish guts, and even eggs from entering the cork. Not only does U-40 Cork Seal defend your cork handle assembly, it also looks great getting the job done.

Preserve’s Traditional Cork Appearance

Although U-40 Cork Seal can’t stand up to your dog’s teeth, it does work extremely well in reducing the potential for any chipping or sloughing from the cork’s surface. In addition to fishing, cork handles are often damaged during the packing and transporting phase of the fishing trip. The added protection of U-40 Cork Seal is a huge benefit in each of these phases.

Since cork’s surface is semi-porous, it accounts for its lightweight benefits however, it also causes the cork to be easily soiled. Once unwanted materials penetrate the cork’s surface, the cork’s gradual deterioration begins. The protective layer provided by U-40 Cork Seal stands between the cork and the exposed environment to keep the handle both clean and intact.

Strengthen the Cork Feel

Knowing that U-40 Cork Seal prevents all unwanted debris from penetrating the cork’s surface, it also helps by enhancing the feel of the cork. This means that it prolongs the initial grip that makes cork so popular among rod builders. By capturing and preserving the initial grip, U-40 Cork Seal ensures your cork handle maintains peak performance every time it’s on the water.

5 Simple Steps to Seal Your Cork Grips

The ultimate protector of cork, U-40 Cork Seal takes only one coat to seal the cork’s surface and protect the cork’s natural look and grip. Follow these steps to successfully coat your cork handle assembly:

1. Clean Cork Grip

Using some warm — lightly soapy — water and a sponge, gently rub the soapy sponge over the cork grip. For problem areas, use a little more pressure with the sponge. Once satisfied, rinse the cork with plain water to remove all the soapy residual.

2. Wait for Cork to Dry

With all the soap suds removed, leave the cork out to dry. Make sure the cork is completely dry before moving on to applying the U-40 Cork Seal.

3. Apply U-40 Cork Seal

Next, apply U-40 Cork Seal to the dry cork’s surface with a bristle brush to ensure you cover the entire surface. Use the brush to wipe away any excess that will not soak in to prevent the U-40 Cork Seal from sagging, streaking or running.

It is important to only apply one coat considering the second coat will not penetrate the first.

4. Let U-40 Cork Seal Cure

After the cork is completely covered and all the excess is removed, clean the brush right away in running tap water. Then, let the sealed cork cure. It will be dry to the touch in 30 minutes and ready to use in only 24 hours.

5. Get Back on the Water

Once 24 hours pass, get back on the water with your sealed cork handle that can now outlast the elements of fishing to look and feel brand new every time. With the application of U-40 Cork Seal, your cork will look, feel, and fish as genuine as its first day on the water.

Check out U-40 Cork Seal available at Mud Hole to save your cork handle assemblies.

There is accomplishment and satisfaction enough in just taking a mature buck. Doing so on public land? Now that’s another level of high-five in the deer woods.

Georgia offers some very good deer hunting on public lands, from state-managed Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) to federal lands like national forests and national wildlife refuges. Here’s a look at some of the public-land bucks taken by GON subscribers and entered in the Truck-Buck Contest this season.

Celyon WMA Bow-Buck Ceylon is Georgia’s newest WMA with 27,000 acres in Camden County in southeast Georgia near the coast. The area follows quality-buck regulations—legal bucks must have at least 4 points (1-inch or longer) on either antler or a 15-inch outside spread.

It was during the first archery-only hunt at Ceylon this season when Waynesville’s Alex Harrelson took advantage of southeast Georgia’s early rut to get a nice 10-point buck with his compound bow during a morning hunt on Sept. 23.

“The buck came through an open stand of pines chasing a doe,” Alex said. “I had to grunt twice to get him to stop 43 yards away.”

The buck had a live-weight of 180 pounds.

Muzzleloader Buck From Oconee National Forest Living in Monticello, Tyler Farmer is close to lots of great public land in middle Georgia. On Oct. 9 during the primitive-weapons/youth week, Tyler headed to a familiar tract in Jasper County.

“I went into this area on Oconee National Forest knowing it held some bigger deer. I’ve been blessed to harvest a few bucks out of the section,” Tyler said. “I got in there a little early waiting on daylight. I had that feeling something good was gonna happen. I was hunting an oak/pine hilltop on the edge of a pine thicket/bedding area. Around 8:40 that morning he appeared out of the thicket and came out into the white oaks. He presented me with a 65-yard broadside shot with my .45 cal CVA muzzleloader. It was a blessed day!”

VPA Buck… What’s A VPA? VPA stands for Voluntary Public Access—these are generally smaller tracts of private land that the state leases using money from a federal grant program. For the 2021 hunting seasons, there are 16 VPA properties that offer some type of public hunting access, ranging from archery-only deer hunting to dove hunting.

One of those VPA tracts is the 934-acre Pleasant Valley VPA in Bartow County, which offers youth bowhunting Sept. 11 to Oct. 15, and then four quota firearms deer hunts for kids. Peyton Bowan, 14, spent Halloween evening on one of those quota gun hunts, and it paid off with a 7-point buck. Peyton and his dad were set up in a ground blind when the buck offered a 75-yard shot, and Peyton made it count.

“The deer dropped in its tracks and the celebration began,” said Petyon’s dad, Mark. “It was a memorable quota hunt. Thanks DNR!”

Cedar Creek WMA Still A Deer Factory Cedar Creek WMA is part of the Oconee National Forest, but it’s managed as a state wildlife management area, which means it has special regulations and more limited days of deer hunting. The mid-November firearms hunt this season was Nov. 11-13, which hit about just right for the peak of the rut in this part of middle Georgia. Cedar Creek is in Jones, Jasper and Putnam counties.

Two good Cedar Creek WMA bucks were entered in Week 9 of the Truck-Buck contest.

Quality-Managed B.F. Grant WMA Produces 12-Point Buck Greg Williams ignored the timber-cutting operations going on in the area while he was hunting B.F. Grant WMA, and apparently a buck ignored the machinery, as well. During a quota firearms hunt on Nov. 6, Greg shot a nice 12-point buck on the Putnam County WMA that is owned by UGA.

“I’d been hunting the area for three days,” Greg said. “They had been pulpwood cutting in the area with machinery, but I figured I would give it one last try in the area. I knew there were big bucks in the area. At 6 p.m. the buck came up to cross the little field by the clearcut and the machinery, and I shot him 70 yards from the wood-cutting equipment.”

Flint River WMA In The Heart Of Big-Buck County Dooly County and the Flint River corridor have long held special esteem when it comes to producing quality Georgia bucks. Flint River WMA is in the heart of it.

On Nov. 19, Jeff Horton was drawn for the quota firearms hunt on the WMA, and he went home to Clyo with plenty of meat and a nice rack. Jeff killed a 224-lb. (live weight) 10-point buck.

“On the second day of a three-day hunt at Flint River WMA, at 7:05 a.m. a doe came out, and behind her this buck came out a minute or two later,” Jeff said. “He started to trot away, and I stopped him with a mouth call. When he stopped, he presented me with a shot 50 yards away.”

These are just a handful of the nice public-land bucks taken this season. See all the bucks entered in the Truck-Buck contest, where bucks can be sorted by county and week of the season.