One of the great things about cast-iron cookware is that it is nearly indestructible. Short of dropping one on the floor and cracking it or breaking off a handle, a cast-iron pan in just about any condition can be restored to better-than-new condition with some work.

How much work? Quite a bit if you try to scrub away the rust, and a little less if you use oven cleaner and let the pan set in a garbage bag for a few days. But who has time to scrub a layer of rust away, and who wants to mess with caustic chemicals if you don’t have to?

Making and using an electrolysis tank (E-tank for short) is much easier. An E-tank will clean even the rustiest and most neglected pan in a matter of days without any work on your end. An E-tank works by using electrical current to transfer the rust from the pan to a sacrificial piece of metal submerged in water. The electrical current comes from a battery charger. The positive clamp gets clamped to the sacrificial piece of metal, while the negative clamp gets clamped to the piece of cast iron you are trying to restore. The current flows through water, pulling the rust particles from the negatively charged cast iron to the positively charged sacrificial metal.

The list of materials needed to build the tank is simple. You probably have most of them laying around the garage already.

You’ll need:

• A plastic 20- to 25-gallon tote
• A 12-volt battery charger
• Water
• A sacrificial piece of metal. Stainless steel works best, but any scrap steel or iron will work. It could be piece of angle iron, an old brake hub, a piece of sheet metal, or an old lawnmower blade, as long as it’s metal. The larger the surface area of the sacrificial metal, the faster the tank will work.
• Sodium Carbonate: The easiest source for this is Arm and Hammer Washing Soda (not baking soda) found in the laundry detergent section of your local grocery.
• String
• A clamp
• A stick or section of pvc pipe to extend over the tote to suspend the cast iron with string

Get Started

First some safety notes. It goes without saying that you need to take care when working with electricity around water. Don’t place the charger above the tote so that it might accidently get knocked into the water. Never touch the water without unplugging the charger first.

The gas that escapes from the tank is flammable. Do this outdoors or in a garage with great ventilation. Don’t set your tank up next to a pilot light or any other possible ignition sources.

1. Fill the tote 2/3 or so with water, making sure the water level is deep enough to submerge your cast iron.
2. Add 1/2 cup of the washing soda per 5 gallons of water. This isn’t a crucial measurement. Just get close. Mix well to dissolve.
3. Place the sacrificial metal into the tank. I like to leave a corner up out of the water to clamp the charger to, but it can be submerged if you like. I use the clamp to hold the metal in position to one side of the tank.
4. Extend the stick or pvc pipe across the tote, and tie a section of string to the center of it. Attach your rusty pot to the string and let it sink into the water with only a small amount of metal exposed above the water level.
5. Clamp the negative clamp from your battery charger to the piece of cast iron you are cleaning just above the water’s surface. Clamp the positive clamp to the sacrificial metal.
6. Set your charger to a manual, 12-volt setting. (Don’t use the quick-start setting if your charger has one; just the standard 12-volt setting.)
7. Plug in the charger and go about your daily business. In a day or two, depending on the rust level, your pan will be cleaned and ready to season. You should see tiny foam bubbles start to form around your cast iron after a bit. Foamy rust will rise to the surface after several hours.

If you are like me, you are probably going to be curious about the progress and want to check on your pot from time to time. Always remember to unplug the charger before touching the water. The 12-volt current won’t hurt you, but you don’t want to take a chance on the charger falling into the tank while you are contacting the water.

Once the pan has soaked for 24 to 48 hours, remove it from the tank and and check to see if the rust has loosened to the point that you can wipe it away with your finger. If so, wash well with soapy water. If the pan still looks and feels rusty, return it to the tank for another 24 hours or so.Once washed, immediately dry the pan (a bare iron pan will rust if you look at it wrong) and begin the seasoning process using this method or one of the newer cast-iron seasoning products on the market like Crisbeepuck, Buzzywax or Lodge Seasoning Spray.

The water in the tank may look nasty after a use or two, but it never goes bad. Simply refill your water level when you need to due to evaporation loss. If the water gets to the point that it looks too funky to use, just dump it and start fresh.

Choosing the best snow goose ammo can be overwhelming due to the wide range of options available these days. Many ammo manufacturers have loads designed specifically for snows, like Federal Black Cloud. But are these loads what you should be shooting on your next snow goose hunt?

The short answer is NO, not really. Most are gimmick loads for spring snow goose hunts that will do alright in a pinch, but they are the not the best. For a snow goose load to be the best, it has to perform across a wide range of conditions, bring knock down power, and be able to pattern tightly at long distances. The best snow goose loads are the 10 gauge 3 ½ inch 1 3/4oz. load of #2 Hevishot and the 12 gauge 3 inch 1 3/8oz. Heavyweight #4’s.

These loads are the perfect mix of ballistics and density that crush decoying snow geese out to 70 yards. If you’ve shot these load you already know, and if you haven’t, feel free to go on believing what you’re using even comes close. In this review, we’ll take a closer look at the top snow goose ammo currently available and discuss what makes them so effective.

Best Steel Shot Ammo for Snow Geese

Steel shot is the most popular ammo shot at geese on any given year. Why? Because it’s CHEAP! Very rarely will you find the cheapest of anything being the best in its class. Well, steel shot is far from the best snow goose load, but it will harvest birds cleanly if patterned correctly and birds are within range when the shot is called. These are some of the top steel snow goose loads I’ve had the most success with.

• HEVI-Snow 12ga 1 3/8 oz. BB or BBB at 1550fps (click to see this ammo at Cabelas)
• 12/10ga 1 ½ oz. #BB or BBB at 1600FPS (Made by Sporting Ammo)
• 10ga 1 ¾ oz. #BB at 1265FPS (Remington)
• 12ga 1 9/16 oz. #BBB at 1300 FPS (Kent) (click here to see this ammo at Cabelas)

Popular 3 inch and 3.5 inch Waterfowl Ammo

Typical steel shot sizes for geese range from #2 all the way up to F-shot. The best all-around steel pellet size in my opinion is BBB. It allows for a good pattern density (62 pellets/oz.) and the knock down power for shots past 50 yards. If a situation arises, like e-caller season in a hot field, then you could drop down to #1 shot for added pattern density up close. Likewise, if you are going to be pass shooting, a well patterned load of T-shot is hard to beat.

Related: Need a new choke tube? Check out the list of the top performers here.

The best steel shot ammo currently is a 1 ½ oz. load traveling at 1600 fps. This load is a great combination of payload and speed. To find out how many pellets are in the loads you’re shooting, check out our pellet count table here.

Here’s a great clip that shows what you can expect to achieve with HEVI-Snow Loads.

Best Long Range Ammo for Snow Geese

The alternative to steel shot is Hevishot and other tungsten based ammo. Tungsten loads, due to their long range effectiveness, are the best snow goose rounds available today. Typical Hevishot density is 12 g/cc and Tungsten Super Shot (TSS) is 18 g/cc. For comparison, steel shot density is 7.3 g/cc. What does this mean? Tungsten based pellets are heavier and can retain energy at further distances than steel shot. This additional energy means better pellet pass through and vital hits at 50 yards or more.

Something that tungsten ammo also does well is it allows you to increase your pattern density by dropping pellet sizes. If you normally shoot #2 steel shot, you can get the same ballistics out of a #5-6 tungsten pellet. This means an increase of 120 pellets or more. With the ability of tungsten pellets to retain their energy longer and the increase gained in pattern density from reducing pellet size, tungsten shot produces some of the best ammo for hunting snow geese.

The following is a list of shot types and their densities.

• Steel……………………7.3 (g/cc)
• HeviSteel………………9.2
• Hevi Duck… …………..9.7
• Bismuth…………………..9.8
• Nice Shot…………………10.2
• Lead………………………11.3
• Winchester Ext. Range…12
• Remington HD……………12
• Hevi Goose………………12
• Hevi 13……………………13
• Federal Heavyweight….15
• TSS……………………..18

When it comes to goose hunting, shot that is denser than steel is preferred. There’s no arguing this. Will steel do the job? Of course, but Hevi-shot will do it 10 times better and reduce cripples. This means more birds in the bag, less time chasing cripples, and the ability to fold up birds at longer ranges. If you have shot tungsten based ammo at geese, you know what I’m talking about.

Tungsten loads also allow you to reduce your shot size to increase your pattern density. This makes even Hevishot #4 a viable load for decoying geese due to the energy retained at longer distances. Steel loads just can’t match it.

I realize cost is a big factor in determining which loads most people choose. Very few want to spend $20-30 for 10 shells. The off season is the perfect time to look for discounted ammo deals on websites to pick these kinds of shells up more affordably. Additionally, learning to load your own shells can also reduce the cost by ordering your loose tungsten shot in bulk.

Best Tungsten Ammo for Snow Geese

• 10 ga Hevishot load of 1 3/4oz #2’s @ 1300fps (click to see this load at Cabelas)
• 12 ga TSS 1 1/4oz. load of #5-7’s
• 12 ga Heavyweight 1 3/8 oz. #4’s (best 12 gauge load for snow geese)
• 12 ga Hevishot 3 inch 1 3/4oz. #4’s
• 10 ga Hevishot 1 7/8oz #4’s

Federal has since discontinued the waterfowl version of their Heavyweight line of shot, but it can still be found in their Turkey loads.

Pick the Best Ammo for the Hunting Situation

Ammunition is only as good as the conditions you’re hunting in. Decoy shooting up close vs. long distance pass shooting are two different hunting methods requiring different approaches. Hunting in a strong wind where shot drift occurs is a problem and usually happens with lighter density loads like steel. Hevishot and other tungsten loads are less affected by the negative effects of bad weather and high winds.

Your hunting situation will define what load is ideal. However, the only way to know if a load is ideal for your situation is to pattern it. Each gun is different. One load patterning great in your Benelli will not necessarily give good patterns in your Remington. Patterning is one of the most important aspects in finding a great load for a given situation. For additional patterning tips, check out this link.

Test different chokes tubes to find which patterns best with your gun. I’ve had good luck with Briley and Terror Chokes, but Patternmaster is also one that works good as well. Here’s a list of my top choke tubes for waterfowl and the results you can expect from each.

Bottom Line

Snow geese can be challenging birds to hunt, and having the wrong ammo can make the hunt even worse. The best snow goose ammo is tungsten based and capable of clean kills between 50-70 yards. Steel just can’t do it consistently.

My favorite load for snow geese is a 10ga 1 3/4oz load of Hevishot #2’s. This load is effective beyond 70 yards and will absolutely CRUSH snow geese. This load results in cleaner kills, less time chasing cripples, and more time in the blind hunting.

TSS is a relative newcomer, but it’s ballistically superior to even Hevishot. I’ve had a chance to reload some TSS shells and have been impressed with their performance, but I just haven’t gotten comfortable with it as a go to load. It’s more expensive ($50lb for bulk shot) and it patterns extremely tight. I have no doubts that with some tweaking it could be the best snow goose load around, I just haven’t been able to test it enough to be comfortable with it.

You won’t find steel shot in the best snow goose load, but if you must go with steel, try for the 1 ½ oz load of BB or BBB going 1600FPS.

For more snow goose hunting tips, check out my guide here!

The term “Ribeye in the Sky” is thrown around loosely in regard to the Sandhill Crane. Supposedly this giant bird has the best tasting meat of all wild game and fortunately for us, we have secured a couple of breasts to try for ourselves. In this edition of Grillmaster Tips we teamed up with our good friend Kirk also known as Instagram’s @the_grill_revealer to find out once and for all if the Sandhill Crane can live up to its “Ribeye in the Sky” status.

Setting up your Big Green Egg or Kamado grill

Fire up your charcoal quickly with a JJGeorge Grill Torch and level it off at around 300 degrees. Throw a couple of soaked hickory chunks into the charcoal to give the meat a light smokey flavor.

We are going to cook the breasts indirectly on cedar planks, so install your plate setter or other method of indirect heat if your are not using a Kamado grill. Also, now is a good time to soak your cedar planks in water if you haven’t done so already.

Prep

Make sure to soak the breasts for 24-48 hours in a half vinegar and half water mixture to draw the blood out of the meat. Once this is done, rinse it off and dry with a paper towel. We have two one pound Crane breasts and we will be using the same cooking method for both. However, we are going to season and present them differently to see what pairs best with the Sandhill Crane meat.

Chimichurri Sandhill Crane Breast:

For our first breast we are going to cover it in extra virgin olive oil and generously dry rub it all over with Spiceology’s Moss rub created by Sasquatch BBQ. This all purpose herb rub has a delicious chimichurri flavor. While the crane is cooking we are making a homemade chimichurri sauce as a topper for the meat (sauce recipe below).

Chimichurri Sauce Recipe:

1/2 cup – finely chopped fresh Italian parsley

1/2 cup – olive oil

2 tablespoons of white wine vinegar

salt and pepper to taste

* Combine all ingredients, stir well and set to side

Tennessee Smoke Sandhill Crane Breast with Truff Sauce:

For our second breast we are going to coat in olive oil and dry rub generously with Spiceology’s Tennessee Smoke inspired by Over the Fire Cooking’s Derek Wolf. No further prep is required as we will be topping this crane breast with Truff – Truffle infused hot sauce to give it a spicy and smoky flavor.

Cooking the Meat

Now that your Big Green Egg is at a stable temperature close to 300 degrees it is time to cook the meat. Place the seasoned crane breasts on your soaked cedar planks and place them on the grill. Cook indirectly for 30-45 minutes until the internal temperature of the breast reaches 120-125 degrees. Remove crane from grill and let the meat rest for 10 to 15 minutes to let the juices redistribute throughout the meat making it moist, tender, and delicious!

Slice and Serve

Now that your Sandhill Crane is perfectly cooked, it is time to slice it up, apply our sauce, and see how it tastes. We sliced our crane breast against grain and applied the chimichurri sauce to the breast with the herb based rub. We did the same for the Tennessee Smoke rubbed breast and topped it off with a drizzle of Truff sauce.

The Verdict

So on to the most important question… does Sandhill Crane live up to its nickname “The Ribeye in the Sky”? I must admit that we were very skeptical going into this thinking that the crane meat would taste like a large duck or goose breast… but boy were we wrong! It is tender, juicy and absolutely delicious! It is definitely more lean than a ribeye steak and the texture resembles that of a well cooked filet mignon. Although both versions of our dish were great, the consensus voted in favor of the Chimichurri breast as the Chimi sauce paired better with the flavor of the meat that the Truff did. We give Sandhill Crane a 10 out of 10 as far as wild game goes, as this is as good as it gets when cooking waterfowl.

Thanks so much for reading and as always leave us a note below to let us know how we are doing, or what you would like us to do next. Happy Grilling!

– Team JJGeorge

Grill Torch $37.99Grill Tables $469Grill Covers $59.99B.B. Prime $419Ash Baskets $79.99

I wanted to put together a total list of fish species I’ve caught, just to try and keep a running tab. Hopefully it will continue to grow as I fish more new waters. I think I get just as excited catching new species as I do catching truly big fish. I’m not on any kind of mission to catch a certain number of species, I just think it will be interesting to maintain and revisit the list from time to time. It should also help to serve as a place to ID a fish that you’ve caught, but have no idea what it is. Of course, I’m not a biologist, so take what I post with a grain of salt, most of my knowledge comes from experience, and the internet. In time I will add other freshwater fish from different families, then move on to saltwater, but for now here are the sunfishes.

Warning to some though, things are about to get nerdy. I’ll separate each species according to it’s taxonomy. Today I’ll start in freshwater with the sunfishes, family Centrarchidae, which has 8 genera, and 34 species native to North America. So far I’ve caught 21 of them. It helps to live in the Southeastern U.S. if you want to catch a variety of sunfish.

Where possible I’ll put up a picture and a distribution map of those that I’ve caught. Click the map for more information about that particular species. The distribution maps come from the original NatureServe Explorer or the USGS Nonindigenous Aquatic Species site. Both are pretty good resources for finding information on specific plants and animals. I did not produce these distribution maps so I can’t confirm their complete accuracy, but I do trust they are mostly accurate.

Update, June 2018: Both of Lance Coley’s articles on black bass species have gone the way of the do-do. Tim Bonvechio and Patrick Cooney have a pretty good article on black bass up on The Fisheries Blog highlighting the 9 species that the scientific community are in agreement on. Work is being done to add more and those are mentioned in the article as well, so be sure to check it out.

Update, April and August 2021: I added a few new-to-me species this year and updated range maps for species that didn’t have one or where the range map info was old and outdated

Ambloplites – Rock Bass

Ambloplites ariommus – Shadow bass

Ambloplites rupestris – Rock bass

Centrarchus – Flier

Centrarchus macropterus – Flier

Lepomis – Sunfish

Lepomis auritus – Redbreast sunfish

Lepomis cyanellus – Green sunfish

Lepomis humilis – Orangespotted Sunfish

Lepomis gulosis – Warmouth

Lepomis macrochirus – Bluegill

Lepomis marginatus – Dollar sunfish

Lepomis megalotis – Longear sunfish

Lepomis microlophus – Redear sunfish

Lepomis miniatus – Redspotted sunfish

Lepomis punctatus – Spotted sunfish

Micropterus – Black Bass

Redeye Bass

Micropterus cahabae – Cahaba bass (formerly Redeye bass, from the Cahaba River drainage)

Micropterus chattahoochee – Chattahoochee bass (formerly Redeye bass, from the Chattahoochee River drainage)

Micropterus coosae – Redeye(Coosa) bass (Redeye bass from the Coosa River drainage)

Micropterus sp. cf. M. coosae – Bartram’s bass (formerly Redeye bass, from the Savannah River drainage)

Micropterus sp. cf. M. coosae – Altamaha bass (formerly Redeye bass, from the Altamaha River drainage)

Micropterus tallapoosae – Tallapoosa bass (formerly Redeye bass, from the Tallapoosa River drainage)

Micropterus warriorensis – Warrior bass (formerly Redeye bass, from the Black Warrior River drainage)

Smallmouth Bass

Micropterus dolomieu dolomieu – (Northern) Smallmouth bass

Micropterus dolomieu velox – Neosho Smallmouth bass

Micropterus sp. cf. dolomieu velox – Ouachita Smallmouth bass

Largemouth Bass

Micropterus salmoides – (Northern) Largemouth bass

The Other Black Basses

Micropterus cataractae – Shoal bass

Micropterus treculii – Guadalupe bass

Micropterus hensalli – Alabama bass (formerly Spotted bass, of the Mobile River drainage)

Micropterus punctulatus – Spotted bass (Kentucky)

Micropterus haiaka – Choctaw bass

The newest member of the black bass family as discovered by biologists with the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission. Their range falls in between the Alabama bass and the Shoal bass in Gulf draining streams on the Florida panhandle and in Alabama.

Pomoxis – Crappie

Pomoxis annularis – White crappie

Pomoxis nigromaculatus – Black crappie

Need to catch dinner in the wilderness? Go set a deadfall trap.

Trapping is one of the oldest ways to get food in the wild. People have been using traps to catch small to medium-sized game in between major hunts. Learning how to set a few good traps in ideal locations can cut your chances of starving significantly.

Primitive traps like the deadfall are especially popular among survivalists and bushcraft enthusiasts because they’re straightforward and relatively easy to construct. They also come in different variations that can fit your individual situation and skill level.

Need to brush up on your primitive trapping skills? Read on for easy-to-follow tutorials and tips:

Primitive Trapping Basics

Any prepper or bushcrafter worth his salt should know how to trap animals for food, fur, and other purposes. Actively hunting for game is always best for fresh meat, but trapping can save you a lot of time and energy, especially if you find yourself in a survival situation with little to no modern tools.

Before we look into the ins and outs of making deadfall trap configurations, here’s a quick refresher on the basics of trapping:

What are you trapping?

Your trap depends on the size and species of animal. As a trapper, you have to know what type of animals frequent the area. Watch out for tracks and pawprints, disturbed vegetation, and droppings to identify the critters.

Deadfall traps, in particular, are great for catching small to medium animals like rodents, squirrels, and prairie dogs.

Finding the perfect location to set your trap

Location is crucial when setting traps. Once you’ve identified the kind of animal you want to capture, you can now zero in on where to put your trap. Construct it near the animal’s habitat (outside its burrow or hiding place), or in places where it usually gets food and water.

Set the trap to make it look as natural as possible by covering it with soil or leaves. Unlike humans, animals have a very keen sense of smell, so remove or mask any human trace by wearing gloves and handling the trap as little as possible.

Skills needed in trapping

As mentioned earlier, you have to know what type of animals live in the area, so a sharp set of tracking skills will come in handy when making traps. Trapping requires other bushcraft basics like whittling, making cordage, and tying effective knots, as in the case of most deadfall traps. And, of course, field dressing and bushcraft cooking skills will ultimately come in handy when it’s time to eat.

What’s the best type of bait to use in trapping?

Not all baits are created equal. Use one that will attract your target animal. Most small mammals like rats and squirrels love to munch on nuts, seeds, and fruit, so use those when baiting your deadfall trap.

Safety precautions to follow

Constructing deadfall traps can seriously hurt you if you’re not careful. When setting one up, put a temporary support rock to hold up the deadfall weight. This way, you don’t accidentally activate the trap and crush your fingers.

Local trapping regulations

Some areas regulate or prohibit trapping animals for food or other purposes, so check local regulations before setting out traps.

A Closer Look at the Deadfall Trap

People have been using the deadfall trap since the dawn of civilization to catch a meal—and it remains one of the best primitive traps to this day.

The reason?

Deadfall traps simply work.

This primitive trapping mechanism uses a heavy rock or logs propped up by sticks to capture prey. Once the animal takes the bait, the sticks collapse, and the animal gets instantly crushed beneath the weight. It’s an effective and straightforward way to catch a meal, especially if you don’t have modern supplies at your disposal.

Types of Deadfall Traps

There are three main types of deadfall traps, namely the Paiute, Figure 4, and Split Stick. You’ll find detailed tutorials of these variations below:

Paiute Deadfall Trap

The Paiute deadfall trap is believed to have been invented by the Native American tribe of the same name. It’s also arguably the most popular among the deadfall trap varieties since it’s easy to set up and has a very sensitive trigger that allows you to catch prey in a snap.

The Paiute deadfall trap uses a total of 4 wood components:

• One long diagonal stick to support the deadfall weight
• One shorter vertical stick that holds up the diagonal portion
• One small twig that serves as a trigger stick
• A small piece of wood that will act as a toggle

What sets it apart from other configurations is that it uses cordage to hold these components together. You can use any available cordage, including dry fibers from plants like milkweed or stinging nettle.

In the video above, you’ll see a detailed tutorial on how to build an effective Paiute deadfall trap using primitive materials and methods.

Traps like these usually take a bit of trial and error before you get it right. Consider vital factors like the angle of the rock, the height of the trap, or the placement of the bait. Adjusting any of these can significantly improve your chances of catching the target animal.

Figure 4 Deadfall Trap

It’s pretty safe to say that the Figure 4 deadfall trap is the Paiute’s less trigger-sensitive cousin. Many find the Figure 4 quite challenging since it needs a sharp set of carving and whittling skills. It also needs some time to master and doesn’t deploy as quickly as the Paiute.

Still, when made correctly, it does a decent enough job, so knowing how to make an effective Figure 4 should still be part of your skills arsenal.

To construct a Figure 4 deadfall trap, you need three sticks:

• 1 long diagonal stick that holds up the deadfall weight
• 1 horizontal stick that goes near the base
• 1 shorter vertical stick that holds everything together and acts as the trigger

All three sticks should be straight and of roughly the same diameter.

Notice that instead of cordage, the Figure 4 deadfall trap uses notches carved into the sticks to hold the entire structure together.

This is the tricky part: each notch should be carved just right and must fit well with each other to support the trap. It’s like making your own puzzle pieces. Carving notches takes considerable skill, so if it’s your first time making this trap, be patient.

The Figure also needs a balance between strength and sensitivity. The trigger, located at the base of the trap, should be strong enough to support the trap’s weight but sensitive enough to deploy quickly.

Because the Figure 4 deadfall trap doesn’t deploy as easily as the Paiute, it’s important to create as many traps as possible to increase your chances of catching food.

Split Stick Deadfall Trap

The split-stick deadfall trap is basically a cross between the Paiute and the Figure 4. It’s got a very sensitive trigger like the Paiute but, similar to the Figure 4, it doesn’t use any cordage.

The principle behind this trap is quite simple.

Take a long stick and cut it roughly in half. Next, carve notches on their meeting points so they loosely fit together. Make a larger notch in one of the sticks to make the trap more sensitive. Then put a small, thin stick in between these two components. This will serve as your trigger mechanism. Once the target animal takes the bait, the entire structure collapses, and the animal gets crushed beneath the deadfall weight.

It’s as easy as that.

Perhaps the only disadvantage to the split stick deadfall trap is that it could easily collapse due to other factors, like the wind. Nonetheless, it’s a good way to practice your bushcraft trapping skills and also catch an animal in the process.

Quick Facts About Deadfall Traps

To sum things up, here are the things you should know about deadfall traps:

• Deadfall traps are ideal for small- to medium-sized animals such as rabbits and squirrels.
• The three main types of deadfall traps are the Paiute, Figure 4, and Split Stick traps.
• Depending on where you live, rigging up a deadfall trap may be illegal, so check local regulations first.
• Be careful when you’re setting up a deadfall trap. It can seriously harm your hands if you accidentally trigger it.

Final Thoughts

People have been trapping since the beginning of civilization. Although most modern traps are now manufactured, nothing beats knowing how to make primitive traps for prepping and survival.

These traps will be indispensable when you find yourself in a survival situation with little to no modern tools at your disposal.

Deadfall traps require no more than some sticks and a flat slab of rock to make. The Paiute, Figure 4, and Bait Stick deadfall traps are relatively easy to construct and are effective in catching small to medium-sized animals. They’re a good fail-safe in case you can’t catch a meal when hunting or fishing.

Continue practicing your deadfall trap-making skills and you’ll be able to catch small game for dinner in no time.

Chief II Plus .22 PCP Air Rifle

A 12-Shot Magazine Makes For Quick Shooting

FPS: 830Caliber: .22Power Source: On Board High-Pressure Tank

The Chief II is a bargain for the build quality and shooting experience you get. I was a little surprised for how nice a gun you get for around the $200 mark. In the PCP world, you really need to spend north of $300 to really get some amazement, but the Chief II is a mighty fine airgun to shoot targets or small game. It doesn’t have a ton of five-star reviews on Amazon, but I think that is more a user error than a fault of the gun.

The .22 caliber of this PCP air rifle has often been a topic of admiration, striking a fine balance between power and grace, attributes that have frequently translated into humane and respectful hunts. During my expeditions, it has morphed into an extension of myself, helping me blend effortlessly with the serene surroundings, creating a harmonious symphony of man and nature engaged in a respectful duel.

One thing that really grabbed my attention while using the Chief II Plus was its straightforward knack for packing a punch in every shot, without causing a ruckus in the quiet surroundings. It gives me the elbow room to tweak my shooting preferences, especially when I’m having a go at target shooting with mates.

The adjustable trigger system comes in handy here, letting me switch from a light pull for quick shots to a heavier pull for those moments when I’m taking a careful aim. It’s like having a casual chat with an old friend, where the conversation just flows naturally, unfolding in the relaxed backdrop of the great outdoors.

Furthermore, its integrated scope mounting system has been a reliable ally, offering a stable platform that has often been the difference between a missed opportunity and a successful hunt. Its ergonomic design, coupled with a grip that seems to understand the contours of my hand, transforms long hours in the field into an experience of connection and enjoyment.

Why I Picked It:

The Chief II Plus .22 PCP found its way into my heart and my list for the sheer experience it promises. Its high-velocity shots, coupled with the adjustable trigger system, have often heightened my connection with the surroundings, allowing for a hunt that is as respectful as it is successful.

Its seamless integration into the natural setting, promising a harmonious and quiet operation, has often heightened the sense of connection I feel during my hunting expeditions. It stands as a testament to a hunting experience that is not just about the hunt, but the journey and the deep connection forged with nature.

Pros:

1. High-Velocity Performance: Delivers powerful shots, ensuring a successful and ethical hunt.
2. Adjustable Trigger System: Allows for a personalized shooting experience, enhancing the connection between the hunter and the rifle.
3. Integrated Scope Mounting System: Provides a stable platform for optics, promising precise shots that elevate the hunting experience.

Cons:

1. Weight: Its substantial build might be a bit taxing during extended hunting sessions, requiring periodic breaks to prevent fatigue.
2. Learning Curve: The nuances of the adjustable trigger system might require a bit of getting used to, especially for novices.

Many people use the flat shooting 6.5 PRC for hunting deer, elk, and many other species of big game with excellent results. Here are a few great brands of 6.5 PRC ammo that will probably serve you well next time you’re afield.

Released in 2018, the 6.5 Precision Rifle Cartridge (sometimes known as the 6.5 Hornady PRC or just 6.5 PRC) has taken the hunting world by storm. Designed to use the same high BC bullets as the 6.5 Creedmoor, the 6.5 PRC has a larger case capacity and can shoot those bullets 200-300fps faster.

When compared to the 6.5 mm Creedmoor cartridge, the 6.5 PRC has a flatter trajectory with less bullet drop, more resistance to wind drift, and more retained energy at long distances. Additionally, with an overall length of just 2.955″, the 6.5 PRC will also still function in many short-action rifles.

The end result is that the 6.5 PRC is a flat shooting, hard hitting, and moderately recoiling cartridge capable of the highest levels of accuracy that still functions in a short action rifle. These factors have made the 6.5 PRC a very popular centerfire rifle cartridge among hunters in recent years.

Indeed, the 6.5 PRC compares favorably to many other 6.5 mm cartridges (like the 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5-284 Norma, etc.) as well as bigger cartridges like the 300 Win Mag and 7mm Rem Mag in certain areas.

While it is definitely gaining in popularity, not all manufacturers produce ammunition for it as it is still a specialized and relatively new cartridge. However, famous brands like Federal Premium, Nosler, and Winchester have all recently joined Hornady in producing factory 6.5 PRC ammunition for hunting elk, deer, moose, black bears, and many other big game animals in North America and elsewhere.

While the 6.5 PRC absolutely excels on deer sized game, it is also powerful enough for use hunting bigger game like black bear and elk when using heavy for caliber, premium ammunition loaded with controlled expansion bullets.

It’s important to realize that different hunting situations necessitate the use of different kinds of 6.5 PRC ammo for best results and using the wrong ammunition can lead to disastrous performance.

For instance, a load using a rapidly expanding bullet that’s ideal for use on whitetail deer would be a terrible choice for use on really big game like moose or elk.

Make no mistake, while it’s a little on the light side for extremely large game, the 6.5 PRC can be an extremely effective cartridge for hunting elk, but you do need to use proper bullets if you plan on using the 6.5 PRC for elk.

Fortunately, hunters now have access to a great selection of controlled expansion bullets that perform very well on really big game like elk and moose.

Keep all of this in mind when you select 6.5 PRC ammo for an upcoming hunt.

Additionally, while they can be very accurate and are certainly capable of killing big game animals, I don’t recommend using bullets designed for target shooting or marketed as match ammo like the Sierra MatchKing or Hornady ELD Match for hunting.

This is because target or match bullets usually aren’t designed for optimum terminal performance on big game animals and you may run into issues with poor penetration.

Instead, it’s best to stick with 6.5 PRC ammo specifically designed for hunting that uses soft point, jacketed hollow point, or similar hunting bullets.

Fortunately, there is a large (and growing) selection of 6.5 PRC factory loads specifically designed for just almost any big game hunting situation in the United States or elsewhere in the world. So, regardless of whether you’re using a bolt action Browning X-Bolt, a Christensen Arms Ridgeline, a Tikka T3, or some other hunting rifle, there is pretty much guaranteed to be something for everyone on the list below of the best 6.5 PRC ammunition for hunting.

In this article, I’m going to provide recommendations for the best 6.5 PRC ammo for hunting elk, deer, feral hogs, pronghorn, black bear, and all sorts of other big game. I’ll also go over the strengths and weaknesses of each individual load and so you can select the right ammunition for your specific needs.

Note: some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase of rifle, handgun, rimfire, or shotgun ammunition through those links. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

Hornady Precision Hunter

The 6.5 PRC absolutely excels at long distance where the almost laser flat trajectory and wind bucking characteristics of the cartridge become extremely important. It should come as no surprise then that Hornady includes the 6.5 PRC in their Precision Hunter line of factory ammo. As a matter of fact, this was the very first factory hunting ammo option for the cartridge and it’s still a good choice today.

Loaded with the extremely aerodynamic Extremely Low Drag eXpanding (ELD-X) bullet, this ammo line is designed for western hunters going after game like mule deer or pronghorn antelope who need the very best ammo for a long range hunting situation. Using a 143 grain ELD-X bullet, that load is a very good 6.5 PRC ammo option for hunters wanting to maximize the extended range performance of the cartridge.

Hornady advertises that the ELD-X bullet has the best-in-class ballistic coefficients over their entire trajectory and that their Precision Hunter ammunition also offers match grade accuracy (usually sub-MOA).

Though the ELD-X does not have a bonded core like the Hornady InterBond, the ELD-X does feature a thicker jacket and the Hornady InterLock ring to help increase weight retention, control expansion, and minimize the chances of core-jacket separation. For this reason, the ELD-X is still devastating on deer and pronghorn sized game, but it’s also a much better choice than their SST bullet for use on larger game.

That said, the ELD-X is still a little too fragile for my tastes. Many hunters use this exact ammunition on elk each year with a lot of success. Personally, I prefer a tougher bullet for elk sized game (like the Barnes LRX, Nosler AccuBond Long Range, Hornady CX, or Federal Terminal Ascent also on this list). I think the ELD-X is perfect for deer sized game though.

All things considered, this 6.5 PRC ammunition is capable of delivering great terminal performance on many species of big game for shots at 400+ yards without dealing with the price or recoil of the big magnum cartridges.

• Bullet Type: Hornady Extremely Low Drag eXpanding
• Bullet Weight: 143 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .625
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,960 feet per second (2,782 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET PRECISION HUNTER 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s, Lucky Gunner, Natchez Shooters Supplies, Palmetto State Armory, and Sportsman’s Warehouse

Barnes VOR-TX Long Range

Barnes recently added a 6.5 PRC ammo option to their VOR-TX Long Range line. Featuring their legendary copper Long Range Expanding (LRX) bullets, Barnes ammunition is designed for rapid expansion, high weight retention, and deep penetration.

Available using 127gr 6.5mm bullets, Barnes now offers another outstanding choice for hunters looking for a tough 6.5 PRC ammo option suitable for bigger game like elk hunting. This particular loading uses a 127gr LRX bullet. Designed for use at extended range, these bullets have a higher ballistic coefficient and are built to expand well at lower velocities when compared to the regular Barnes TTSX bullets.

Fortunately, even the LRX bullet is still very tough and will deliver great weight retention and deep penetration. You can also depend on it to perform well at close range. Not every hunter will need the extended range performance of the LRX, but it’s an excellent offering for those who want it.

This load is also 100% copper, which makes it an ideal choice of 6.5 PRC hunting ammunition for use in states like California that that don’t permit the use of lead bullets.

I’m a big fan of the Barnes VOR-TX line and the LRX bullets in general. I’ve used this ammunition with a lot of success on both deer and pronghorn over the past few years. This ammo is also a favorite among many North America, New Zealand, and Africa hunting outfitters.

• Bullet Type: Long Range Expanding (LRX)
• Bullet Weight: 127 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .468
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,010 feet per second (2,554 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET BARNES 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s, Lucky Gunner, Optics Planet, Palmetto State Armory, & Sportsman’s Warehouse

Federal Premium Terminal Ascent

Federal’s Terminal Ascent line is another good option of 6.5 PRC hunting ammo for hunters looking for really good extended range performance. This ammunition uses the new Terminal Ascent Bullet, which is also extremely aerodynamic and accurate. It’s not quite as aerodynamic as the Hornady ELD-X, but it still has a relatively high BC and is also much more robustly constructed.

With those things in mind, I personally tend to lean more towards the Terminal Ascent over the ELD-X for hunting bigger game like elk with the 6.5 PRC. This ammo is another great option for hunters going after game out west like mule deer or pronghorn who need excellent 6.5 PRC ammo for a long range hunting situation.

If this ammunition shoots accurately in your rifle, this is another good option (with the 127gr Barnes LRX and 130gr Hornady CX, and 142gr Nosler AccuBond Long Range) for hunters who need good 6.5 PRC ammo for elk hunting. While the Barnes LRX is a slightly tougher bullet, the Terminal Ascent has a little bit higher BC though. Both are excellent options though and will work great on an upcoming elk hunt if they function reliably and shoot accurately in your rifle.

• Bullet Type: Terminal Ascent
• Bullet Weight: 130 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .532
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,000 feet per second (2,598 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET TERMINAL ASCENT 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Brownell’s, Cabela’s, Natchez Shooters Supplies, Optics Planet, & Sportsman’s Warehouse

Hornady Outfitter

Hornady introduced their new Outfitter line of ammunition a few years ago and just added the 6.5 PRC cartridge to that lineup. Though it will also work quite well on a whitetail deer hunt in the back 40, the company markets this 6.5 PRC ammo specifically for use on guided hunts in really tough environments like a caribou or moose hunt in Alaska or a kudu hunt in South Africa.

This ammunition is loaded with an extremely tough 130 grain CX bullet that’s designed for controlled expansion, high weight retention, and deep penetration on large, heavy boned animals like elk and moose. This is high-quality ammunition that also uses nickel-plated case for reliable feeding and corrosion resistance under the most demanding conditions. The primers and case necks are also sealed.

With all those things in mind, it’s easy to see why Hornady advertises their Outfitter 6.5 PRC ammo for use on a big hunt that’s the culmination of years of saving and planning. After all, when the chips are down on the hunt of a lifetime, the absolute last thing you need is for your ammo to fail at the moment of truth.

Look really hard at the 127gr Barnes LRX, the 130gr Terminal Ascent, the 142gr Nosler AccuBond Long Range, or the 130gr CX for the best 6.5 PRC ammo for elk. All will offer similar terminal performance and similar ballistics. Choose the one you’re able to obtain that shoots best in your rifle.

The CX bullet used in Hornady Outfitter ammunition is lead free, which makes this ammo another good choice for use in states like California. Note: the CX bullet replaced the older GMX bullet from Hornady and is a tiny bit more aerodynamic, but retains the great terminal performance of the GMX.

• Bullet Type: CX
• Bullet Weight: 130 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .489
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,975 feet per second (2,555 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET HORNADY OUTFITTER 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Brownell’s, Cabela’s, MidwayUSA, and Sportsman’s Warehouse

Nosler Trophy Grade Long Range

Nosler produces 6.5 PRC ammo as part of their Trophy Grade Long Range line loaded with their AccuBond Long Range Bullets. The 142 grain AccuBond Long Range bullets used in this loading have a bonded core and have both the highest BC and use the heaviest bullets available in a factory load for the cartridge.

That heavy for caliber, extremely aerodynamic bullet maximizes the strengths of the high velocity 6.5 PRC cartridge and delivers heavy hitting, flat shooting, and wind bucking performance out to extended range. This bullet also works great with the 1:8″ twist barrels that are common with 6.5 PRC rifles.

Indeed, this 6.5 PRC loading is capable of shooting a much tougher bullet with the same BC as the 143gr ELD-X used in Hornady’s Precision Hunter line. For this reason, the two loads will have virtually the same trajectory, but the tougher 142gr ABLR will work better on bigger game than the 143gr ELD-X.

With all that in mind, this is the best choice of a factory load for a hunter looking to maximize the all-around performance of the 6.5 PRC. That bullet is soft enough to deliver devastating terminal performance on game like deer and pronghorn, but is also tough enough to reach the vitals on bigger and tougher game like elk and moose from typical shooting angles.

By the same token, this bullet has a very high ballistic coefficient and, thanks in part to the combination of using Nosler brass with Nosler bullets, is also capable of outstanding accuracy.

All of those factors combine to facilitate use on big game at extended range.

All things considered, I think this is the best 6.5 PRC ammo for use on all manner of game and under the widest possible variety of hunting situations.

• Bullet Type: Nosler AccuBond Long Range
• Bullet Weight: 142 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .625
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,900 feet per second (2,651 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET NOSLER TROPHY GRADE LONG RANGE 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s, Natchez Shooter Supplies, and Sportsman’s Warehouse

Federal Fusion

It’s not new, fancy, or sexy, but Federal Fusion ammunition with a 140gr bullet is outstanding 6.5 PRC ammo for deer hunting. In addition to being very effective, this ammunition is also somewhat reasonably priced and has been one of the easier to find 6.5 PRC ammo options during the past few years.

Fusion bullets have a bonded lead core to help with weight retention. Combined with a skived tip to help initiate expansion, Federal Fusion 6.5 PRC ammo delivers a really good balance of controlled expansion, high weight retention, and deep penetration. While it’s not the latest and greatest stuff, Federal Fusion ammunition also has a really good reputation for accuracy.

This is ideal ammo for feral hog and deer hunting. You could also include game like pronghorn and even black bear in there as well.

It will definitely work on bigger game if you don’t have anything better, but I do not recommend using Federal Fusion 6.5 PRC caliber ammo for hunting game like elk or moose unless that’s all you have. Instead, I think other loads I recommend later in this article are a better choice like the Barnes LRX, Hornady CX, Nosler AccuBond, or Federal Terminal Ascent.

All things considered, this is outstanding on deer sized game and you can’t go wrong with Federal Fusion 6.5 PRC ammo for deer hunting.

• Bullet Type: Fusion Soft Point
• Bullet Weight: 140 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .439
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,925 feet per second (2,659 foot-pounds of energy)

GET FEDERAL FUSION 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s and Natchez Shooter Supplies

Nosler Trophy Grade

Nosler manufacturers a loading that uses a 140 grain AccuBond bullet as part of their Trophy Grade line. This is perfect for those in need of some quality and extremely versatile 6.5 PRC ammo for deer, bear, or elk hunting.

Just like the name says, the AccuBond is a bonded bullet where the lead core is chemically bonded to the jacket, so you don’t have to worry about the bullet “grenading” or expanding too rapidly upon impact. It’s not quite as tough as the Nosler Partition, but the AccuBond is still a very robustly constructed bullet and these features make the AccuBond a much better choice for an elk hunt than typical cup and core bullets.

AccuBond bullets are also pretty darn aerodynamic (much more aerodynamic than Partition bullets of the same caliber and weight) and will reliably expand at lower impact velocities. All things considered, this ammunition is tough enough for close range shots on big game while at the same time providing very good extended range performance.

Some of the more specialized 6.5 PRC loads (which I’ll also cover in this article) offer better performance in specific circumstances. However, this 140 gr AccuBond load is an excellent all around choice for hunters who want a flexible, yet still extremely capable 6.5 PRC hunting load regardless of whether you’re hunting deer in Idaho or elk in Colorado. Place one of these bullets in the right place and you’ll be happy with the results.

• Bullet Type: Nosler AccuBond
• Bullet Weight: 140 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .509
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,900 feet per second (2,614 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET TROPHY GRADE 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s, Natchez Shooter Supplies, and Sportsman’s Warehouse.

Winchester Expedition Big Game Long Range

Winchester’s Expedition Big Game Long Range factory load is a collaboration between Winchester Ammunition and Nosler Inc. that’s loaded with a 142 grain Nosler AccuBond Long Range (ABLR) bullet. This ammunition offers great long range performance, but also uses a bullet that’s tough enough use with a short range shot on a big animal (like an elk).

The AccuBond Long Range is a great bullet that’s very aerodynamic and will still reliably expand at lower impact velocities. Nosler advertises that this bullet will still reliably open at velocities as low as 1,300fps (compared to 1,800fps for many other bullets). At the same time, this is a bonded bullet that’s designed to offer a mix of deep penetration, high weight retention, and controlled expansion.

With over 2,800 ft-lbs of muzzle energy shooting very tough, low-drag bullets, this load will also work great at almost any reasonable range from point blank out to several hundred yards on all manner of game ranging from thin-skinned animals like whitetail and mule deer or pronghorn all the way up to bigger and tougher game like black bear, elk, and even moose.

For those reasons, this Winchester ammo with a 142-grain Nosler AccuBond Long Range is also great 6.5 PRC ammo for elk, bear, pronghorn, and deer hunting.

• Bullet Type: Nosler AccuBond Long Range
• Bullet Weight: 142 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient: .625
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,020 feet per second (2,875 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET WINCHESTER EXPEDITION BIG GAME 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Brownells, Cabela’s, and Natchez Shooters Supplies

Winchester Copper Impact

Winchester originally developed their Copper Impact line of ammunition in parallel with their Deer Season XP line to provide some lead free ammo options for deer hunters. Those two ammo lines were well received by the hunting community. This eventually led to the expansion of the line to include lead free 6.5 PRC ammo as well.

Just like the other loadings in that line, Winchester Copper Impact 6.5 PRC ammunition uses a solid copper bullet design with a large diameter polymer tip that’s specifically designed to produce a gigantic wound channel along with massive impact trauma.

Additionally, this bullet will retain weight and penetrate extremely well since it is a monolithic design.

The end result is a bullet that expands rapidly, transfers a lot of energy to the animal for devastating terminal performance, and will still penetrate through thick hide, heavy muscles, and solid bone to reach the vitals of very large game from most reasonable shot angles.

The 6.5 PRC loading also has decent G1 BC of .428, which is pretty good for a lead free bullet. Using moderate powder charges, it does not quite have ballistics on par with some of the other 6.5 PRC ammo options on this list, but it still performs extremely well and offers excellent performance at short range as well as for longer range shooting.

While this loading will indeed work great on deer-sized game, it’s not limited to just deer either and should work great for bigger and tougher game like feral hogs, black bear, and even potentially elk. For this reason, Winchester re-branded this ammo to drop the “Deer Season” moniker and just go with “Copper Impact” instead.

Finally, this ammo is a great choice for use in states like California and is another California legal 6.5 PRC factory ammo option.

• Bullet Type: Winchester Copper Extreme Point
• Bullet Weight: 125 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .428
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,875 feet per second

GET COPPER IMPACT 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Brownells

Nosler Ballistic Tip

Nosler also offers a 6.5 PRC loading using a 140 grain Ballistic Tip bullet. This bullet is also an outstanding choice for hunting thin-skinned game like deer and pronghorn.

Ballistic Tip bullets are designed to deliver devastating terminal effects to game upon impact. Nothing is guaranteed, but these bullets often deliver instant, knock down results on deer sized game.

All things considered, Nosler Ballistic Tip 6.5 PRC ammo is an ideal choice for use on deer sized game like feral hogs, pronghorn, mule deer, and whitetail deer at close range as well as extended range. They also tend to shoot very accurately in most 6.5 PRC rifles.

As the saying goes, there’s no such thing as a free lunch.

Those bullets expand rapidly and deliver incredible shock upon impact, but they don’t penetrate very well. This isn’t usually an issue with deer-sized game, but I do NOT recommend using Nosler Ballistic Tip ammo for bigger game like elk or moose.

Instead, stick to game like whitetail deer, mule deer, and pronghorn with the 140 grain Ballistic Tip. You’ll probably be very happy with the results if you do that.

• Bullet Type: Nosler Ballistic Tip
• Bullet Weight: 140 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .509
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,900 feet per second (2,614 foot-pounds of energy)

GET BALLISTIC TIP 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s and Sportsman’s Warehouse

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At SKRE, we offer a couple of different base layers for hunting. We have our merino wool base layers and we have a polyester blend base layers. Our merino wool base layers are the Kaibab series. We offer that in a 150 weight, which is really lightweight merino wool, and a 300 weight, with a little bit of spandex added for comfortable wearing, and that is our mid-weight merino wool.

Our polyester blend is the Wasatch. It is one weight – kind of a lightweight, in between a light and a mid.

Today, I’m going to compare merino wool versus polyester. I want to go over a couple of things about each one, how you might use them, why you might use them, and that sort of thing.

When To Wear Base Layers

You might ask yourself, you know, do I even need to wear base layers? Well, I think one of the things that you have to understand when it comes to performance layering systems and all performance gear, the base layer is doing a lot of work.

The outer layers are designed to be just that – they’re outer shell layers. They’re designed to keep the elements out and allow the layers on the inside to do their job.

So when you get into a situation where you are layering, you need something that’s performance-based against your skin, whether it’s two layers or just one layer, underneath your outer.

Whether you’re wearing merino wool or polyester, or any combination of the two, you need a high-quality base layer to get the best performance out of your layering system.

I personally almost always wear a base layer of some kind unless it is really, really hot. But once the season gets going and we get into cooler temperatures, we’re pretty much always going to do something on base layers.

Differences of Merino Wool Versus Polyester

Our polyester blend is a very silky, soft, comfortable fabric. We use polyester in almost everything in the clothing world. So everyone’s pretty familiar with it. I feel like the Wasatch in the polyester blend is probably a little bit more durable, but it doesn’t perform nearly as well, in terms of what a base layer should be doing. And I do feel like in a way the polyester kind of holds in more. It kind of works more as a barrier type of base layer.

Merino wool actually comes from a Merino sheep. It’s super fine and it’s a super fabric the way it wicks moisture, it’s anti-microbial, it doesn’t hold on the scent. It is a fantastic product, but merino wool requires a little bit more attention when it comes to taking care of and even when using it.

When to Wear Merino Wool Versus Polyester

I always use the lightweight merino wool next to skin. Pretty much exclusively, always wearing that. And even when it’s warm, I like to wear the lightweight merino wool because it wicks moisture off my skin. So, even when it’s warm, I wear the lightweight next to skin. If I’m doing anything mobile or I’m walking any distance, I always wear merino wool. Because it breathes better and it wicks moisture. Wicking moisture off your skin is a very important thing when it comes to how your base layers perform.

I love to use the polyester Wasatch top as a mild temperature, long sleeve t-shirt. But I like to use it as a mid-layer as well. Sometimes I’ll wear it kind of as an in-between. Like I said before, I feel like it holds in body temperature a little more, so if I’m not moving a whole lot, if I’m not going very far, I’ll wear polyester because I kind of feel like it’s a little bit warmer.

Recap

So just to recap, the best way for you to get the true, full effect of what a performance layering system can do for you is to make sure you have a high-quality base layer, whether you’re wearing merino wool or polyester, or any combination of the two. So set yourself up with the best layering system on the market and shop SKRE’s base layers today.

This firearm transported me back in time and reminded me how shooting can just be plain fun.

Twenty years of law enforcement have me constantly considering how I can be quicker to the draw, faster in my reloads, consideration of cover, and issuing commands while I’m handling my firearm.

My gun is a defender of my life and the lives of others, but there was a time when things were much simpler.

In fact, they were a hoot!

The Ruger Mark IV 22/45 took me back there and I’m going to tell you how it can take you there too.

The Evolution of Fun

Ruger took me back to simpler times when the .22 long rifle was the next logical progression from a BB gun.

Young people growing up in rural areas might be called upon to save their town from the ravages of Black Bart or some other villain.

I had known about the Mark series pistols for some time but had heard mixed reviews because of the engineering behind the handguns. Things have changed significantly.

The order of business when I received the pistol was to take it apart. It really couldn’t have been easier. I made sure it was safe and empty, pressed a button, and it disassembled into four distinct parts which I could tell would be easy to clean.

The worst of my fears abated, I endeavored to see what joy might be gleaned from this modernized shooter.

Outfitting

Heading out to the range a total of five times I endeavored to put the pistol through its paces with four brands of ammo as well as a suppressor to test the gun’s versatility (Ruger makes a variant with a threaded barrel for just such purposes).

Perhaps most importantly, I mounted a Vortex Razor with a 3 MOA dot to give it that modern accuracy, and quick sight acquisition flair.

The 22/45 comes with adjustable iron sights but I wanted to plink with the greatest of ease. It also has a Picatinny rail which I mounted, then bolted on the Vortex. With just a little bit of time to get the Razor adjusted, I dialed it in and soon was plinking away like the days of old. Or wait, not like the days of old, better than the days of old!

By dialing the red dot brightness up or down depending on the lighting conditions, I was able to pull up on target, find my red dot, and start shooting. This was much easier than aligning the front and rear sights like I was used to; it was a modern marvel!

Performance

The trigger had about 1.5 mm of slack before it started to snug, then broke at an average of 3.12 lbs on my Lyman Digital Trigger Gauge. Loading the magazine was interesting too until I learned to pull down on the spring tension release button which held the follower at bay.

The controls were all easily accessible, particularly because I had selected the Ruger Mark IV 22/45. Although I wanted to get away from the responsibility-laden shooting of law enforcement, this model made for an easier bridge.

With one magazine, once you shot the 10 rounds, you were done.

No need to conduct a rapid reload, no need to seek cover or call for some! I soon began to relax and enjoy the sheer simplicities of marksmanship, sending rounds downrange with great accuracy and little regard for heavy recoil or a booming percussion.

A moment of brilliance tugged at my mind’s edge. Hey, this is good enough that my kids might like it.

Despite the attractive nature of the gaming world, most children still crave analog experiences whether they realize it or not—especially when those experiences are shared with loved ones. I took my kids to the range and let them try the Ruger Mark IV also.

My son liked it.

He was comfortable enough that neither the recoil nor the pop of the .22 LR was really an issue for him.

He was big enough to grip the pistol easily and used the Vortex red dot to narrow in on his target and press the trigger back to complete, consistently emptying the magazine, hitting most of what he was aiming for.

My daughter was a bit too small to truly get a good grip on the pistol and reach the trigger also. So, we compromised. She held the gun and aimed intuitively through the Vortex while I provided a little support and pressed the trigger when she was on and said “ready”.

The result was magnificent. Using an old west splatter target, she shot bad guys aplenty and even peppered an errant horse in the butt for being in the vicinity. Much fun was had by both and an entertaining experience was shared by all.

I eventually had to stop shooting for the sheer pleasure and needed to remember I was reviewing this pistol for you, dear reader. I took my four ammo types and set out a target 12 yards away, then carefully fired an entire magazine of each for accuracy.

It wasn’t supported but it was about as accurate a test as you’d need to utilize to measure this plinking marvel.

I used three brands and four types of .22 long rifle. First was CCI, the 40-grain gold standard of plinkers everywhere.

Next were two varieties of Aguila, both 40-grain, one being standard velocity and the other being high velocity.

Finally, I used Federal Premium, also in a 40-grain.

The last I used only during testing of the Gemtech suppressor, and this was Gemtech 42-grain subsonics.

The groupings came in as follows: CCI came in at two inches for ten whole rounds. The ammo was solid, reliable, and predictable with no failures to fire. Both Aguilas performed well, with only a slightly stronger pop distinguishing the high velocity from the standard.

With the high velocity, I achieved a 1.34-inch group and with the standard, I got approximately 2 inches. The Federal also averaged in at a group of 2 inches. All of these ammunitions were reliable and provided an economical level of fun with reasonable accuracy.

Heading to Liberty Firearms Institute on a slow day I was able to test the Gemtech GM-22 out with the Ruger Mark IV. This was a match made in heaven. Unscrewing the thread protector, I removed it and the crush washer before screwing on the suppressor.

I just so happened to be wearing a suit and tie at the time so admonishments from Q came ringing to my ears as a testy “double oh seven!”

I tried three ammo types and measured the difference in sound with a decibel meter about ear’s distance from the muzzle.

There was an ambient noise of approximately 70 dbl. in the range. Using various loads, I noticed a trend. The GM-22 took the rounds down in decibels to just above 100 decibels, removing the sonic crack one typically experiences.

Now, sound experts say 100 decibels will damage your hearing after 8 hours of steady exposure. All I noticed was a slight pop and the action of the bolt clicking.

For its diminutive size, the GM-22 is awesome.

Check out our field-strip video since there’s a few idiosyncrasies on the Mark IV.

By the Numbers

Reliability 5/5

I really racked up a tally with this pistol. Between me and my family, we ran approximately 1,500 rounds through the Ruger Mark IV 22/45. The only hiccup was shooter initiated. The base of the magazine sits deeply into the magwell and I failed to properly seat it once, causing a failure to feed. This was quickly remedied and not duplicated. The gun provided flawless performance and was only cleaned once during testing.

Ergonomics 4/5

The ergos on this pistol are wonderful. I like the slim profile of the grip, just like a 1911, and this also gives it less aesthetically in common with a Luger. The controls are all pretty easy to get to and even smaller hands can make use of them. There is a good design to the backstrap, protecting the shooter’s hand from the bolt that blows back. It is super easy to operate, from loading, firing, to cleaning.

Accuracy 3.5/5

I wouldn’t call the standard 22/45 a card splitting dynamo, but it does really well in what it is designed for. Imagine a few hours on a warm afternoon, plinking at bottles or cans set up in your favorite shooting spot. Or, perhaps you might hang a target such as Dastardly Dan, and work on fundamentals of shooting. The gun’s performance is solid and predictable. Using the Vortex Razor helped simplify things in my mind. For my children, only one address was necessary—put the red dot on what you want to hit!

Customization 4/5

There is a ridiculous amount to customization available to these guns. Ever hear the name Volquartsen or Tandemkross?

You can change out triggers, barrels, grips, heck, just about anything you’d like and upgrade this gun ‘til your heart’s content. I wouldn’t call the market robust, but there are plenty of options out these for those looking to upgrade. Having the ability to add optics like the Vortex Razor and GM-22 suppressor also widen the variety of customization possible with this gun.

Value 4/5

These little pistols are an excellent value. Listed on a few websites between $400 and $500 (depending on model) you can’t go wrong. Is this the all-time home defender pistol? No. Is this the gun you spend quality time teaching your wife or children how to shoot and have countless hours of fun? Yes.

Overall 4/5

Hats off to Ruger for bringing the joy of shooting back to me in a way that is difficult to express.

Field Strip & Reassembly

The field strip and reassembly is a little different so we made a quick video to help you out.

Conclusion

The Ruger Mark IV is fun and easy to shoot. It’s a breeze to clean, it’s economical to feed, the reliability is flawless, and we loved that this little .22LR pistol fits any shooter, even the kids. The accuracy could be tuned up a little, but for a plinker, it’s hard to go wrong.

You can spend a lot of time teaching important fundamentals on this firearm that later translate to other systems. You can bond with members of your family and have a blast while plinking away. You can upgrade it into a race gun also, but it’s simply wonderful just the way it is.

Special thanks to Liberty Firearms Institute for transfers and also for holding the Gemtech suppressor and allowing me to shoot it before my tax stamp was settled.

Do you run a suppressor on your .22lr pistol or rifle? What is your favorite plinker? Let us know in the comments or drop a review below! And if you need ammo for that .22, check out the Best .22 Long Rifle Ammo!

Or looking to mount a red dot? Check out Best Pistol Red Dots.