Estimated read time: 3-4 minutes

SALT LAKE CITY — Filmmaker Joseph LeBaron had never heard the stories about whales living in the Great Salt Lake. In fact, the Utah native had rarely even spent much time at the lake.

That changed in 2015 when NPR radio host Doug Fabrizio reached out to see if LeBaron’s team would be interested in filming an interview with Dr. Lynne McNeill, a folklore specialist at Utah State University. The topic? An infamous article published in 1888 about whales being released into the Great Salt Lake.

Needless to say, LeBaron was intrigued.

“The article was about a scientist named James Wickham who came from England to try to start a whale oil fishery in the Great Salt Lake,” recalled LeBaron. “He apparently spent a couple of years off the coast of Australia to capture a breeding pair of whales, and then transported them to Utah by train, in giant tanks of water.”

LeBaron’s team decided that the project was going to require more effort than originally planned. The story was simply too big to capture in a three-minute edit. With their eyes now set on a short film, the filmmakers began scouting the Great Salt Lake.

“We quickly fell in love with the lake,” said LeBaron. “Even though the Great Salt Lake is so important to the state for many, many reasons, it had never felt like a destination place for me. Now I realize that it’s just so incredibly beautiful and wild and weird.”

The team soon realized it would be impossible to film on the lake, as declining levels made it too shallow. Each year, they’d go out to check the depth to see if “this was finally the year to film.” But the lake just got more and more shallow.

“It was really hard for us to see this beloved character disappearing before our eyes,” LeBaron said. “Ultimately, we got scrappy and were able to get the shots we needed. And through our newfound love of the lake, we grew into activists and saw an opportunity for this film to act as a call to conservation.”

LeBaron sought out an impact partner — FRIENDS of Great Salt Lake was the ideal match, as part of their mission is to increase public awareness and appreciation of the lake through education, research and the arts. Their partnership will culminate in a film premier for the completed short film, “Whales of the High Desert,” on Aug. 25. The event will feature live music and multiple food trucks at Industry SLC, 650 S. 500 West, in Salt Lake City.

Since Fabrizio was the impetus for the whole project when he first contacted LeBaron about the story nearly a decade ago, it’s only fitting that he’ll be emceeing a panel discussion at the premier about the film and conservation efforts for the Great Salt Lake. Panel members include Bonnie K. Baxter, director of the Great Salt Lake Institute at Westminster College; Lynne S. McNeill, professor of folklore at Utah State University; and, Holly Simonsen, programs director at FRIENDS of Great Salt Lake.

All proceeds from the event will go to FRIENDS of Great Salt Lake to support their ongoing conservation efforts. You can get details and reserve tickets by clicking here.

And if you’re wondering whether the mysterious story about whales in the Great Salt Lake is true — it’s worth noting that even the filmmakers and experts involved with the project have a hard time answering that question.

There’s no concrete evidence available to support the claim, which suggests it’s unlikely to have occurred. But the thrilling possibility that whales called the Great Salt Lake home, even briefly, has helped keep the legend alive all these years.

Photos

Most recent Great Salt Lake stories

What’s the difference between first focal plane vs second focal plane?

A first focal plane reticle enlarges and shrinks as you adjust the magnification while the second focal plane remains the same size.

Why does that matter and which focal plane scope should you choose?

By the end of this article, you’ll fully understand both types of focal planes so you can choose the best rifle scope for your needs.

Let’s get started!

What is the First Focal Plane?

There are two locations where a reticle can be installed within a rifle scope: the first focal plane (FFP) or the second focal plane (SFP).

With a first focal plane scope, the reticle is physically placed on the “front” of the erector tube assembly and magnification lenses. The first focal plane is furthest from your eye when looking down the sight.

How does that make a difference?

With a First Focal Plane scope, the size of the reticle will appear to grow or shrink as the scope’s magnification is increased or decreased, respectively.

Now that you’ve got the basics, let’s talk about the pros and cons…

First Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

With the first focal plane optics, the reticle size is going to scale up or down with your magnification adjustments.

This means your trajectory markings, or holdover values, are going to remain accurate regardless of what magnification setting you’re on. This is great news if you hate doing math!

But, it comes at a cost…Literally.

The price is often higher by virtue of its more complicated construction. A first focal plane reticle is also typically associated with higher-end scopes.

With first focal plane scopes, the reticle will look small and thin with less power while the reticle will be thicker at higher power.

It can be easy to lose those thin reticle lines, especially against dark backgrounds. Although, some of the best Leupold riflescopes have illuminated reticles for better visibility.

Also, the reticle can cover too much target at the highest setting. If this is a dealbreaker to you, that’s where Second Focal Plane comes into play…

What is the Second Focal Plane?

The most common design is SFP, or a Second Focal Plane scope. It’s also referred to as Rear Focal Plane.

With a second focal plane scope, the reticle is placed behind the magnification lenses on the erector tube assembly.

The second focal plane scope is closer to your eye. Therefore, the reticle stays the same size at any magnification range.

Now, let’s talk about the pros and cons of this…

Second Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

Its lightweight, great resolution, and durability against heavy cartridges make it a popular choice among hunters and law enforcement.

With the second focal plane, your units of measure per each hash mark (MOA or MRAD) represent the same value regardless of your magnification setting.

However, the spacing for holdover in the reticle is only correct at the highest magnification setting. So, it’s not always reliable for variable long-range shooting.

For example:

Let’s look at the Viper HST 4-16×44. This is a second focal plane scope with a magnification range of 4-16x. The Viper HST has hash marks representing 1 MOA but this is only true at its full magnification: 16x.

Of course, you can always do the math in between. But it becomes complicated and confusing and we all know that’s no bueno.

Second focal plane scopes are more commonly seen in the average riflescope and they’re easier to manufacture. That’s why they’re typically less expensive.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for close-range shooting

A second focal plane scope is more suited for close-range hunting and defensive shooting.

Why?

Because you have a strong and easy-to-see reticle even at the lowest magnification. With low-powered optics, like 1-4X optics, this is a highly undervalued feature.

When it comes to a First Focal Plane scope, you can easily lose sight of your marks at low power. This can be a hassle when you need to make adjustments for the wind or distance— especially for older eyes.

Since you’d have to zoom out to get the rest of the marks in the scope’s view, your target shrinks relative to your view. If you’re hunting small game, this can be an inconvenience.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for long-range shooting

First focal plane scopes are best for competitive and long-range precision shooting.

The hash marks represent the same value across all magnification levels. It allows you to use and trust those holdovers at any given point in your magnification.

This is an advantage for spotting impacts and misses for corrections. It’s also very helpful if you need rapid and precise follow-up shots.

Hitting something at longer ranges means getting as much precision as possible. With a second focal plane scope, making those fractional MOA adjustments becomes far more difficult.

Conclusion

The truth is— it’s a matter of preference and intended use. There is no “better” between the two focal planes.

Higher magnification ranges are better in a first focal plane scope. Lower magnification is fine for second focal plane scopes.

If you’re into precision shooting, especially in matches, and you don’t mind the cost: a first focal plane riflescope is great to have.

If you won’t be taking many shots where you need to “hold” for windage or elevation, a second focal plane scope is more than enough. Plus, it won’t necessarily break the bank.

There are other things you need to consider before buying an optic— like choosing the best quick detach scope mounts. At least when it comes to a SFP scope vs a FFP scope, you won’t be scratching your head anymore.

Since we’re on the topic of upgrades, my AR-15 A2 front sight removal guide is up. Go check it out!

It’s a dreaded feeling and one none of us like to think about, but it happens. You think you hit the liver.

However, it’s not all doom and gloom. While a liver shot may not be what you were going for, it is still within the kill zone.

The important part is, are you sure it’s a liver shot, and what to do next.

What is a Deer Liver Shot?

As the name suggests, a deer liver shot is a deer you hit in the liver. It happens more often than you might think.

Due to the deers’ anatomy, the liver sits within what is known as the kill zone.

The liver runs just behind the lungs on a perfect broadside deer and is almost the same length from top to bottom.

In this scenario, your shot would have to be a little far back to hit the liver. But this changes depending on the position of the deer.

A quartering to or away deer will put the liver in different positions in relation to your shot.

Identifying a Deer Liver Shot

The first thing to do if you think you hit the liver is to run through a few checks to double-check. It’s important not to skip this step.

Ideally, you should run through this for all of your shots unless the deer drops in front of you.

Tracking a deer with a liver shot is likely to push him far beyond what you can track.

Position

Not all of us record our hunts, but something like a Go Pro is a handy tool to have.

Not only can you assess your hunt, but in times like this, you can also see where your arrow landed.

If you feel your arrow hit near the center of the deer, towards the back of the ribcage, then it is likely you hit the liver.

Judging by the ribcage is the best indicator of whether you hit the liver or not.

As I mentioned above, the position of the deer changes your arrow penetration angle a lot. So what might look like a perfect lung shot on a quartering away deer may actually be a liver shot.

[wd_leadmagnet type=”dressing”]

Sound

Sound is a difficult method of judging shots, but if you are paying attention, it can really be useful.

Often in the heat of the moment, we don’t pay attention to the sound of the impact.

However, it can tell a lot about a shot.

A liver shot makes quite a thud, and if you hear it, you will know exactly what it means.

It’s almost like a hollow sound but with some substance behind it, like a smack.

Deer Reaction

Often a liver shot deer is identifiable by the deers’ reaction alone. However, this does vary from deer to deer.

In most cases, a liver shot deer will start to run but stop after about 100 yards. They proceed to walk after this or even come to a standstill.

Some deer will bed down after about 200 yards, and some can make it out to 500 plus yards before bedding down.

Blood Trail

The best tell-tale sign of all is the blood trail. However, the downside of this is with a liver shot.

Often liver shots produce little or spotty blood.

If it was indeed a liver shot, the blood would be very dark and as mentioned, potentially very sparse with only a few drops here and there.

The blood will usually have a thick consistency and disappear very fast.

What to do after a Deer Liver Shot

This is where things get tricky. Assuming you read all of the above and are certain of a liver shot then you are fine, because I can tell you to wait 4-9 hours, and you are sure of a recovery.

However, where things go wrong for people after a liver shot is A; they are not sure it was a liver shot or B; they didn’t care to check and went after the deer too soon.

A liver shot will always prove fatal for a deer, but many liver shot deer are not recovered.

This is not because they didn’t die, but because an eager hunter didn’t wait.

The deer still died, but probably 3 counties over or in cover so thick you wouldn’t think it was possible to get into it.

If in doubt, hang back. You will find most liver-shot deer within 500 yards of where you shot him if you wait.

This will allow the deer to bed down, which they usually quickly do after a liver shot.

Come back in 5 or 6 hours, and you’re sure to find your deer just outside the blood trail.

If the weather isn’t favorable, you could start tracking him earlier, but I would at least wait four hours.

I would only wait less than four hours on a suspected liver shot if I saw the deer fall in front of me.

Although in this scenario, it’s likely you’ve clipped one lung alongside the liver.

Final Thoughts

Most hunters are going for that sweet spot, heart – double lung, but it doesn’t always work out like that.

A liver shot isn’t a bad shot, it may not be your greatest, but it’s still a kill shot.

If you suspect a liver shot, back off and wait for at least four hours before tracking, and if you do, it’s likely your deer will be less than 500 yards from where you hit him.

Here are the best choices for hunting ear protection that hunters can use to safeguard their hearing.

I think we can all agree that we’d love to keep our sense of hearing for our entire life. After all, I’m sure you know someone who has a tough time hearing and can barely carry on a conversation. There are many different things that can damage your ears, but if you do a lot of hunting with firearms, there’s one simple thing you can do to avoid hearing loss and make sure you don’t have to wear hearing aids later in life: wear hunting ear protection.

Any noise louder than 85 decibels can cause permanent hearing loss. I cannot state this strongly enough: if it is loud enough, a single gunshot can cause immediate hearing damage. For reference, a gunshot is about 130-180 decibels (give or take).

While noise induced hearing loss and tinnitus are both permanent, the good news is that it’s also preventable.

The Noise Reduction Rating (NRR) of ear protection describes how effective it is. Basically, a higher NRR means that hearing protection does a better job reducing your exposure to really loud noises.

However, you should keep in mind that some firearms produce a pressure wave strong enough cause hearing loss by damaging the bones behind the ear, even if the ear canal is protected by an ear plug. This is particularly true for people shooting indoors or those exposed to repeated shots from shotguns or rifles (such as waterfowl hunters or hunting guides). While ear plugs are certainly better than nothing, ear muffs are actually the most effective shooting and hunting ear protection you can wear.

So, to avoid permanent damage to your hearing, it is important that you wear appropriate ear protection when shooting or when exposed to other noisy environments. Luckily, this task is much easier than many people assume and there are a lot more good quality options for hearing protection while hunting than there used to be.

In this post, I’m going go over some of the best hunting ear protection products that you should be wearing afield to safeguard your hearing.

Note: some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

AXIL XCOR

What’s the best hunting ear protection? Hands down, it’s AXIL XCOR electronic ear buds. They amplify quiet noises, block loud noises, and have 5.0 bluetooth connectivity. They are also extremely comfortable to wear for long periods of time and won’t affect your cheek weld when shooting a long gun.

These electronic ear buds are a more expensive than basic electronic ear muffs and some other electronic ear buds, but are also similar in price to (or maybe even a little LESS expensive than) some of the electronic ear plugs I also recommend in this article.

AXIL XCOR ear buds provide excellent performance by digitally compressing loud noises over 85 dB back to safe levels and amplifying quieter sounds. AXIL advertises that the XCOR provide up to 6x hearing enhancement along with a NRR of up to 29.

So, not only will they protect your hearing from loud noises, but they actually improve it as well. This is the best of both worlds when it comes to hunting ear protection.

At the range, electronic ear buds protect the hearing of the shooter, but still allow him or her to hold a normal conversation with another person. While hunting, this allows the user to hear all the little sounds he or she needs to hear, like the snap of a twig made by an approaching deer.

The XCOR ear buds comes with several different foam tips of varying sizes. It is very important that you take the time to read the instructions and choose the tips that fit your ear properly. However, they work GREAT and are very comfortable to wear for hours at a time if you use the correct tips for your individual ear size.

Just slip them on at the beginning of a hunting trip and wear them until you’re done hunting. You’ll get hearing enhancement that will help you hear an approaching animal and won’t have to fumble around and put on ear protection before taking a shot.

I’ve worn the XCOR ear buds for up to 10 hours of hunting in a single day (with a short break around lunch) for over a week at a time without issues. I’ve never used any other hearing protection that comfortable.

The fact that they also offer bluetooth connectivity is also awesome because that gives you the option of listening to music or podcasts on your phone with them. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend doing that while you’re out hunting, but it’s a nice feature when doing something like mowing the lawn.

Finally, it’s important to realize that the XCORs are wireless digital ear buds, which makes them a somewhat unique form of hunting ear protection (most other models are analog). The fact that they’re digital hear protection means the XCOR ear buds provide excellent sound quality with minimal distortion. In fact, I think they have the best sound quality of all the ear protection on this list. Plus, they do that without having wires or sticks coming out of your ears.

All things considered, I consider AXIL XCOR wireless ear buds to be the absolute best hunting ear protection.

Click the button below to receive discounted pricing on these ear buds ($50+ off MSRP) along with free shipping to most locations.

BUY AXIL XCOR EAR BUDS HERE

AXIL GS Extreme

Next up on this list of the best hunting ear protection are AXIL GS Extreme electronic ear buds. These were my previous favorite ear protection model until AXIL released the XCOR wireless ear buds in 2024.

Like the XCOR ear buds, the GS Extreme ear buds amplify quiet noises, block loud noises, and also have 5.0 bluetooth connectivity. So, they have many of the same strengths as the XCOR ear buds that also make them excellent forms of hunting ear protection.

However, they’re not wireless and they’re analog ear protection, so the sound quality isn’t quite as good. While they’re still comfortable to wear, I don’t think they’re quite as comfortable as the XCOR wireless ear buds though.

On the other hand, GS Extreme electronic ear buds are a little less expensive and are still excellent hunting ear protection.

AXIL advertises 6x hearing enhancement with the GS Extreme and a NRR of up to 29.

All things considered, I consider AXIL GS Extreme ear buds to be well worth the money as hunting ear protection, especially considering the fact that they only cost a little more than traditional electronic ear protection.

Click the button below to receive discounted pricing on these ear buds (35-50% off MSRP).

BUY AXIL GS EXTREME EAR BUDS HERE

AXIL TRACKR BLU

While I think the AXIL GS Extreme is the best hunting ear protection, not everybody likes wearing ear buds. If you prefer wearing over the ear muffs instead, then you should definitely check out the the AXIL TRACKR BLU.

Like the AXIL GS Extreme, these muffs block loud noises and amplify quiet noises. However, AXIL TRACKR BLU electronic ear muffs also protect the bones of hearing behind your eardrum from damage caused by the pressure wave produced by gunshots.

Like other forms of electronic hearing protection, TRACKR BLU electronic ear muffs provide excellent performance by blocking loud noises and amplifying all other sounds. AXIL advertises that the TRACKR BLU will provide up to 40 decibels of hearing amplification, which can be easily adjusted with a simple volume wheel on the side of the muffs.

Most importantly, they provide excellent hearing protection with a NRR of 27. I’ve compared them side by side and the AXIL TRACKR BLU provides noticeably more protection than the Howard Leight Impact Sport. The TRACKR BLU also has an ultra fast reaction time of just .02 seconds and will protect your ears from sounds 85 decibels or louder.

Additionally, they may also be combined with ear plugs for extra protection in extremely loud environments. This makes them an incredibly effective form of shooting or hunting ear protection.

So, not only will they protect your hearing from loud noises, but they actually improve it as well. This is the best of both worlds when it comes to hunting ear protection.

The sound quality of the TRACKR BLU ear muffs is also significantly better than the Howard Leight Impact Sport and it also uses AAA batteries.

Some people do not like to use ear muffs when shooting a rifle or shotgun because they think they’ll get in the way. Personally, I have not had this problem with the AXIL TRACKR BLU muffs.

They are designed specifically for hunters and shooters and therefore have a low profile design that does not interfere with my cheek weld when I’m shooting rifles and shotguns. They’re also very easy and simple to properly use and have adjustable headband that will fit a wide range of users.

So, many hunters use them for their shooting and hunting trips (including both big game and waterfowl hunting).

Finally, the TRACKR BLU muffs also offer bluetooth connectivity, so you can listen to music or podcasts on your phone with them.

All things considered, I consider AXIL TRACKR BLU ear muffs to be well worth the money as hunting ear protection, especially for those who just prefer to use ear muffs.

Click the button below to get the best pricing on these ear muffs (up to 50% off MSRP).

BUY AXIL TRACKR BLU EAR MUFFS HERE

Pro Ear Gold II

Hunters desiring high end over the ear muffs should definitely look at the Pro Ear Gold II. Like the AXIL models, these muffs block loud noises and amplify quiet noises (about 8x sound enhancement for this model).

With a NRR of 26, they provide a similar level of protection to the AXIL models. However, the Pro Ear muffs do have a little better sound quality. I think they’re also a little more comfortable than the AXIL TRACKR BLU.

They’re also made in the USA and have separate volume controls for each ear so the user can fine tune their adjustments for best performance.

Pro Ear Gold II earmuffs also have a low profile to avoid interfering with cheek weld, but without compromising hearing protection.

That said, Pro Ear Gold II muffs are quite a bit more expensive than the other over the ear muffs on this list and do NOT have any bluetooth functionality.

All things considered though, the Pro Ear Gold II ear muffs are an excellent for those who don’t mind spending a little extra money for the best possible electronic ear muffs for hunting or for use at the range.

BUY PRO EAR GOLD II EAR MUFFS HERE

Howard Leight Impact Sport

While I think the AXIL GS Extreme and TRACKR BLU are the best hunting ear protection options, I think Howard Leight Impact Sport electronic ear muffs are a great value option. Like the AXIL models and the Pro Ear Gold II, these muffs block loud noises and amplify quiet noises.

The Howard Leight Impact Sport is slightly more expensive than ear plugs or regular ear muffs, but they are still pretty reasonably priced.

With a NRR of 22, they don’t provide as much protection as the AXIL models, but the Howard Leight Impact Sport still provides ample hearing protection under most circumstances. I definitely recommend combining them with ear plugs for extra protection in extremely loud environments though (like shooting indoors or near especially loud rifles).

I bought my first set of Howard Leight Impact Sport ear muffs over 10 years ago. They were cutting edge then and still work fine now, but there are definitely better options for shooting and hunting ear protection these days.

Their price is their best selling point these days and they remain good choices for hearing protection for those on a more strict budget, especially considering the fact that they only cost a little more than a traditional pair of ear muffs.

BUY IMPACT SPORT EAR MUFFS HERE

Walker’s Razor

Very similar to the Howard Leight Impact Sport, Walker’s Razor electronic ear muffs are another great choice for hunting hearing protection. They also amplify quiet noises, but shut off to block loud sounds above 85 decibels.

With a NRR of 23, they also provide ample electronic ear protection under most circumstances. You can also combine them with ear plugs for extra protection in extremely loud environments.

Just like the name says, the Walker ‘Razor’ shooting earmuffs have a very low profile to avoid interfering with cheek weld, but without compromising hearing protection. The Razor series also comes in a bunch of color options (including camo).

BUY WALKER’S RAZOR EAR MUFFS HERE

Howard Leight Quiet Band

Designed to be worn around your neck when not in use, the Quiet Band is well suited for hunters: wear the band around your neck while you’re trying to find game, the just simply pop the plugs in your ears right before taking the shot. This gives you the best of both worlds by having full use of your hearing most of the time while still protecting your ears at the moment of truth.

Since it only protects the ear canal and not the bones of hearing behind the ear, the Quiet Band suffers from the same drawbacks as other ear plugs though. For this reason, I don’t advise using it for situations where you’ll be exposed to high levels of continuous gunfire for long periods of time (like waterfowl hunting or shooting at an indoor range). The design of the Quiet Band also prevents it from being used in conjunction with over the ear muffs like traditional foam plugs.

All that being said though, the Howard Leight Quiet Band is inexpensive, lightweight, easy to use, and will provide good hearing protection for most hunting situations. These characteristics make it a great choice for hunters on a budget. Yes, this is the same ear protection Hickock45 wears in his YouTube videos.

For what it’s worth, Peltor also makes a very similar product called the Peltor Banded Hearing Protector that works very well too.

BUY A HOWARD LEIGHT QUIET BAND HERE

Impulse Ear Plugs

Impulse ear plugs are a significant step up in capability when compared to traditional foam ear plugs, but still go for a reasonable price. I have a set of Safariland Pro Impulse Plugs that work well for me.

Unlike the Howard Leight Quiet Band, impulse plugs are designed to be worn all the time. The big advantage to these plugs is that they allow the user to hear ambient noise relatively well while still providing protection against gunfire and explosions when they’re used in the noise activated mode.

That is why similar ear plugs are issued to Soldiers in combat zones.

Since impulse ear plugs allow you to hear the much of the noise present in the environment around you, this also makes them good choices for hunting ear plugs.

While they are a good product, impulse ear plugs do not provide a very high level of protection overall (they claim to have a Noise Reduction Rating of 33, but that seems high). With that in mind, they aren’t the best form of hunting ear protection if you’ll be spending a lot of time at an indoor shooting range or shooting short barreled rifles. Use some higher end ear plugs or ear buds (or over the ear muffs) for that sort of shooting.

However, they are a pretty good choice for protecting your hearing while hunting if you’re on a budget (they’re the least expensive of the group).

BUY IMPULSE EAR PLUGS HERE

In addition to the ones made by Rooth, Earmonyx, Safariland, and Surefire also make similar impulse ear plugs.

Howard Leight Impact Pro

For those that want to spend a little more money for a significant increase in performance in a set of hunting ear protection, you should really consider a set of top of the line over-the-head electronic ear muffs. In addition to the Impact Sport model previously discussed, the same company also produces the Impact Pro.

The Impact Sport model is great, but the Impact Pro headset has a higher noise reduction rating noise reduction rating of 30, which makes them a better choice for hearing protection in really loud environments. At the same time, they are a little larger and bulkier than the Impact Sport electronic muffs.

BUY IMPACT PRO EAR MUFFS HERE

The two Howard Leight ear muffs models are by far the best value choices for hunting ear protection. The Impact Sport muffs also made cut for my holiday gift recommendations. To see what other stuff is on the list, check out the following article:

101 Best Gifts For Hunters

Electronic Ear Plugs

For those that want the performance of electronic ear muffs in a smaller package, there are several different types of electronic ear plugs on the market today that are good choices for use as hunting ear protection. Etymotic Gunsport Pro electronic ear plugs are one really good choice. The same goes for Walker’s Game Ears and Walker’s Silencer Digital Earbuds.

Like electronic ear muffs, they block loud noises and amplify all other sounds. However, since they are similar in size to old school hearing aids (or even smaller in the case of the Gunsport Pro), they are much smaller and more portable than electronic ear muffs.

Since they are ear plugs, they do not protect the outside of your ears. As a result, they are designed more for hunters than for shooters (though they may be used for both). On the other hand, they have the advantage of not getting in the way of a rifle or shotgun and they can be worn with any headgear. I have a pair of Walker’s HD Pro Elite plugs and I’ve used them successfully on multiple hunting trips.

Walker’s Game Ears, Walker’s Silencer Digital Earbuds, and Etymotic Gunsport Pro earbuds are all great choices for hunting ear plugs. You’ll probably find that one of those models fits you a little better and is more comfortable to wear than the others though.

Once I got them adjusted properly, the Walker’s Game Ears were fairly comfortable to wear for hours at a time (even when wearing shooting glasses or headgear) and did a good job of amplifying and blocking the proper noises. That said, the AXIL earbuds at the beginning of this article were much more comfortable (and less expensive).

While they are good choices for hearing protection while hunting, electronic ear plugs have two significant drawbacks: their cost (they are by far the most expensive option for protecting your hearing while hunting) and the fact that they do not protect the bones of hearing.

The price is a bit steep for a casual hunter or shooter but they are well worth the money for a serious hunter who will frequently use them and take advantage of their awesome features.

BUY WALKER PRO ELECTRONIC EAR PLUGS HERE

BUY ETYMOTIC GUNSPORT PRO ELECTRONIC EAR PLUGS HERE

BUY WALKER’S SILENCER DIGITAL EARBUDS HERE

I hope that you’ve found this article on the best hunting ear protection choices both helpful and informative. As long as you take the right precautions, it is possible preserve your sense of hearing despite exposure to noisy environments. Trust me, you will be glad that you wore proper hunting ear protection many years from now.

Enjoy this article on the best options for hunting ear protection? Please share it with your friends on Facebook and Twitter.

Make sure you follow The Big Game Hunting Blog on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and YouTube.

NEXT: 9 VITAL ITEMS EVERY GUN CLEANING KIT NEEDS

The Beretta autoloader has been a mainstay in sporting circles and in game fields for many years, and the line has continued to evolve and improve. Beginning with the Model 300 in the late 1980s, the 300 quickly morphed into numerous specialty versions for target shooting, waterfowl, and upland game hunting. The latest iteration is the A400 Xtreme Plus (“A400XP” for short). The new model draws on its history, respects the past, and employs the latest in high-tech shotgun technology. The result is a superior product.

The Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus was unveiled on May 5, 2018, at the NRA Annual Meeting in Dallas. It’s built in Italy and is billed as the ultimate for superior reliability for all conditions encountered in waterfowl hunting. It offers advanced barrel technology and a host of ergonomic features that will surely tantalize the clay-target shooter. It is packed with features that make it evolutionary, darn functional, and pleasant to shoot.

High-Tech Features

I recently received a new A400XP for testing, and I was impressed. One of its more unique features is the configuration and construction of the barrel. This multifaceted process is called the Beretta Steelium Plus barrel technology. Beretta proudly notes that it makes more than 500,000 barrels a year, and the company doesn’t skimp on the A400XP barrels. They are made of steel alloyed with molybdenum, chromium, and nickel that results in a superior shotgun barrel. A400XP barrels are drilled, reamed, and cold-hammer-forged, just like a fine rifle barrel. Then they are vacuum-relieved, giving the steel what Beretta says are the ideal characteristics for optimal ballistic performance.

The A400XP barrel has an “Optima-Bore” profile with a 14-inch forcing cone, instead of the more usual 6 inches. This gradual taper results in a reduction in perceived recoil, better patterns, and long-range performance, even with steel shot. The ventilated rib has a 7×7 stepped design with a red fiber-optic front sight and a metal mid-bead.

The A400XP uses what Beretta calls “Optima-Choke HP” choke tubes. They extend about a half-inch from the muzzle and are clearly marked as to choke constriction. Five constrictions are provided, from Cylinder to Full. Steel shot is okay in all except Full and Improved Modified.

The action is equally unique with the “Blink” gas-operating system, as in “quick as the blink of an eye.” The rotating bolt head and the new gas valve make the A400XP 36 percent faster cycling than other shotguns. The design of the gas piston keeps powder gases from “leaking out,” so the gun can cycle faster. This also reduces the amount of gases that get into the action by about one-half, so cleaning intervals are substantially lengthened.

The receiver is a half-inch shorter than its predecessor, reducing the gun’s overall length. A great feature is that the aluminum-alloy receiver is drilled and tapped (for husky 8-40 screws), so adding a scope or dot sight for turkey hunting is a snap.

The receiver has an enlarged loading port, an extended charging handle, and a long lever-like bolt release for easier operation with gloves. The trigger is very good, breaking cleanly at 5 pounds, 6 ounces. The magazine capacity is four rounds, and a plug to reduce it to two is provided.

A terrific feature of the A400XP is the cartridge cut-off lever on the left side of the receiver, reminiscent of the Browning A-5. This allows a live round to be ejected from the chamber and the bolt to be locked open. This is great for crossing a fence or getting back into the truck for the jaunt to the next hedgerow. It also allows the hunter to quickly switch loads without disturbing the rounds in the magazine. This is especially handy if a fat Canada goose is gliding toward your decoys when your gun is stoked with duck loads.

The stock has a really effective recoil-reduction system, a big plus for waterfowlers and high-volume target shooters. Tests have shown that a shotgun has two distinct recoil impulses. The first is when the shell goes off, and the second is when the bolt slams back into the receiver. The “Kick-Off Mega” in the A400XP stock is a hydraulic recoil-dampening system positioned between the pistol grip area and the buttstock proper. It reduces the axial movement that makes the stock smack the shooter’s cheek from that second impulse. The soft comb pad helps here, too. In addition, there is a traditional rubber recoil pad on the end of the stock. The forearm and pistol grip areas have nice, soft padding that not only provide a good handhold, but also soak up a little kick. The A400XP’s stock fit me perfectly, but a shim kit is provided, so the user can adjust the drop and cast, if desired.

The A400XP is available in 12 gauge only and with a 26- or a 28-inch barrel. My test gun has a 26-inch barrel with the Max-5 camo finish, and it is really attractive. It is also available in several other finishes.

Crushing Clays

Guns are made to be shot, so I proceeded to put all sorts of ammo through the new A400XP. There were no bird seasons open when I had the gun, but clay targets are always in season. I have a trailer-mounted target thrower, so I towed it out to the pasture north of my vineyard and proceeded to crush clays—and in the process scare the daylights out of every grape-eating scavenger in the area.

I wanted to give the new gun and myself every advantage, so I screwed the Cylinder choke tube into the barrel and blazed away. The targets were pretty close, and the wide-open Optima HP tube literally smoked every target I centered. As a test of the recoil sensation, my wife whacked a few clays with the gun and pronounced the recoil “mild.” However, she was not enamored with the A400XP’s 8-pound heft and quickly returned to her 6-pound 20 gauge.

The A400XP has a 3.5-inch chamber, so it can shoot 2¾-, 3-, and 3½-inch shells without any adjustment. I had several target loads with 7/8, 1, 11/16, and 11/8 ounces of shot, plus a couple of lighter handloads. The gun’s operator’s manual states the gun will digest loads down to 7/8 ounce, presumably at a velocity of around 1,200 fps, but suggests that “best initial performance” is with shells loaded with “11/8 ounces of shot.” This is code for “break the gun in” first with full-charge target loads before shooting the wimp loads, and my functioning tests proved Beretta right.

Few folks chronograph shotshells because it is a bit tricky. But just as with rifles and handguns, it’s really the only way the shooter can get an idea what a given load is doing in his or her gun. This is especially true with shotshells. The velocities of handloads and even high-dollar factory loads can vary all over the place. I shot my test loads over the Oehler Model 35P chronograph to see what kind of performance they delivered. As a rough index of momentum, I borrowed the pistol shooter’s “power factor.” This is just the weight of the shot charge in grains, times the velocity in fps, divided by 1,000. Basically, you need a power factor of about 500 or higher to work the action.

Of course, all of the ammo with 11/16 ounces of shot and up worked peachy-keen. However, neither my light skeet hand-loads with 7/8 ounce of shot at a velocity of 1,044 fps nor my shells with 1-ounce shot loads at 1,182 fps would work the A400XP’s action. The empties would usually eject, but not feed a second round from the magazine or lock the bolt back if the magazine was empty. The same is true of Winchester’s “Low Recoil” load with 26 grams (0.917 ounce) of #9 shot that likewise would not cycle the action. This is a very light load—the listed velocity is just 980 fps—and it averaged only 958 fps out of the A400XP.

The results with these last three loads are of little consequence, as few folks are going to shoot such light loads in their duck guns anyway. As the saying goes, it was only a test.

Two of the best shooting loads I tried were Federal’s new Gold Medal Grand and Grand Handicap ammo. Both are loaded with 11/8 ounces of hard #7½ shot. The Grand is listed at 1,200 fps, and it averaged 1,142 fps out of the A400 Xtreme Plus. The Handicap, which is listed at 1,235 fps, measured 1,199 fps. Frankly, I couldn’t tell the difference between shooting them. Both crushed clays with authority, and cycling was 100 percent reliable. As best I could determine, the A400XP patterned “50 percent/50 percent,” and my best hits on clay targets were when I aimed dead center at the target.

Overall, the A400XP is a pretty impressive shotgun. It handles great and is well balanced. It never malfunctioned as long as it was fed a proper diet. The Max-5 camo not only is good-looking, but also blends well in marshes and upland cover.

My first impression was that the gun was a little heavy, but shooting and swinging soon proved that the balance and handling characteristics were spot-on. It swung smoothly and encouraged a good follow-through—critical for hits on crossing targets. If I just pointed the gun correctly and kept it moving, it smashed clays convincingly. Plus, the soft comb pad helped me keep my head on the stock (“Stay in the gun,” as the great Nick Sisley says). And the cumulative effects of recoil seemed modest over the course of shooting several boxes of ammo.

The A400XP’s push-button manual safety is in front of the trigger, and at first it perplexed me. Every other pump or autoloader I’ve shot had the safety behind the trigger, so it took me a while to get used to it.

I must caution users to keep their fingers and other body parts away from the ejection port when the action is open. The breechbolt release button is a lever about an inch long. It has a lot of leverage and is very easy to press and release. It is not difficult at all to accidentally close the bolt on your finger or fingers.

Viewed retrospectively, the new A400XP is traditional and brand-new at the same time. It’s interesting to review what the “experts” of the early 20th century thought were the established norms for the weight and barrel length of the “perfect shotgun.” In W.W. Greener’s opus The Gun and Its Development, the ninth edition of which was published in 1910, the shotgun’s perfect weight was determined to be 96 times its shot charge. In those days, the British considered 1 ounce of shot about right, so this suggested a gun weight of exactly 6 pounds. For a 11/8-ounce charge, it came out to 6.75 pounds.

The classic work The Shotgunner (1949) by Bob Nichols was published just at the beginning of a new era of shotguns and their ammo. In those days, it was gospel from across the pond that a shotgun’s barrel length should be about 40 times its bore diameter. For a 12-gauge bore of 0.729 inch, this equates to 29.16 inches, and indeed, most European game guns had 30-inch barrels. However, even Greener later equivocated on barrel length somewhat and admitted that good results could be had with 28-inch barrels.

The barrel length and weight of the A400XP are fairly close to the ideals of Greener and Nichols. The gun I tested weighs exactly 8 pounds. This translates to a ratio of 113.8, not radically different from the 96 Greener envisioned. And the available barrel lengths of 26 and 28 inches are fairly close to Nichols’s suggestion of 29 inches.

So it is good that things that have worked for decades are perpetuated, while at the same time incorporating advanced features that make the shotgun even better. Greener and Nichols, eat your hearts out.

When setup correctly, tarp shelters are like magic. With the right setup, you can stay dry in the rain, block rain, create a shady area to eat lunch, or even keep you warm on an unplanned night in the wilderness. There are literally hundreds of different tarp shelters you can use. Here I’ll go over the most important ones to know for camping, backpacking and survival/emergency use.

Want this information (and more!) in printable format?

Get my Camping Cheat Sheets!

The 42-page guide covers everything you need to know to enjoy the outdoors with confidence. Since you also like tarps, I’ll even give you a discount 🙂

Click Here for 50% Off

Jump to:

• Infographic
• Which tarp shelter setup is best?
• Horizontal Ridgeline Tarp Setups
• Diagonal Ridgeline Tarp Setups
• Tarp Setups with Poles
• Other Tarp Shelter Setups

Tarp Shelter Setup Infographic

Which Tarp Setup Is Best?

The best tarp setups for camping are arguably: the A-frame, Adirondack, plow point, and holden tent. However, the best tarp shelter setup depends on many factors like the weather conditions, how you’ll be using it, and pitching conditions. Ideally, you will learn several setups including at least one which can be pitched quickly, doesn’t require trees or a ridgeline, has a built-in groundsheet, and is closed on three sides for weather protection.

Note: To hang a tarp properly, you’ll need to know the 7 main tarp knots and how to tie out the ridgeline and guylines.

Recommended Tarps:

• AquaQuest Guide Tarp: All-around good tarp which comes in a variety of sizes (10×10 size is 18.3oz).
• REI Trail Break Tarp: For when you need a larger tarp for car camping (12’x12′ size and 33oz).
• Sea to Summit Escapist Tarp: Lightweight tarp which is still durable (medium is 6 ft. 6 in. x 8 ft. 6 in and 9.5oz; large is 10×10 ft. and 12.3oz)
• Twinn Tarp by Gossamer Gear: Even lighter tarp for serious UL backpackers (just 9.7oz)
• Free Soldier Tarp: Very affordable tarp which is still lightweight. Plus it has tie-outs going down the middle! (large size is 118″ × 126″ and 42oz)

Don’t forget about cordage!

You will probably need at least 30 feet (10m) for a 10×10 tarp or 40 feet (12m) for a 10×15 tarp. I recommend getting REFLECTIVE paracord so you don’t walk into your ridgeline or tie-out points at night!

Horizontal Ridgeline Tarp Shelter Setups

These tarp shelters all have horizontal ridgelines. These are good options when you have two trees to pitch between. They are easy to learn and give you even headroom throughout.

The downside is that you’ll need a lot of rope (length of tarp + at least 8 feet for tying around trees). Some of the setups require even more rope to tie out guylines for walls or the roof. While many of these setups can be done with just poles, the roof has a tendency to sag.

Remember to make sure the ridgeline is perpendicular to the wind and the opening is on the leeward side!

1. A-Frame Tarp Shelter

The A-frame is one of the simplest and easiest tarp shelters to set up. It’s also somewhat versatile because you can hang it higher to get more headroom or hang it lower to get more interior space.

The major downside is that both ends of the A-frame shelter are open, so wind and rain can get in. For best protection, hang the A-frame so the openings aren’t facing the wind. If possible try to have at least opening next to a natural protection, such as a big bush which will block the wind from getting inside.

Instructions:

1. Hang your ridgeline about shoulder height.*
2. Put the tarp over the ridgeline. The midline of the tarp should be directly over the ridgeline.
3. Spread out the sides of the tarp so they are taut. You can adjust the height of the ridgeline is you want the tarp to be higher or wider.
4. Peg down the four corners of the tarp. Peg down the entire edge of the shelter for better weather protection.
5. Use a prusik knot to secure the tarp onto the ridgeline

Notes:

• A higher ridgeline will give you more headroom but will be narrower. A lower ridgeline will give you more width inside but less headroom.
• A 9×9 foot tarp hung at a 60 degree angle will give you a width of 4.5 feet and max headroom of 3.9 feet.
• It’s possible to use poles to hang the A-frame, but you’ll really need to stake them out. Even then, the roof will still sag – so it’s best to use a ridgeline for this tarp shelter.

Pros:

• Adjustable height and width
• Very fast and easy setup
• Weather protection on two sides

Cons:

• Somewhat claustrophobic inside

2. Lean-To Tarp Shelter

Also called a wind break shelter, the lean-to tarp setup is fast and easy. The downside is that it doesn’t protect against rain well. It’s also not great against wind, unless the wind doesn’t change direction. For this reason, the lean-to is only recommended for tarp camping in good weather or as a quick shelter setup for breaks.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline between two trees. Attach your tarp to the ridgeline. Alternatively, tie the top two corners of the tarp to the trees.
2. Peg out the bottom corners of the tarp.

Notes:

• You can also use poles to hang a lean-to shelter. In this case, first peg out the bottom two corners of the tarp. Then attach the top two corners to poles and stake them out.
• The “Envelope” pitch is a variation of the lean-to. Simply fold the tarp under itself to create a groundsheet before attaching it to the ridgeline.

Pros:

• Very fast and easy to pitch
• Possible with square or rectangular tarps
• Can pitch with ridgeline or poles
• Good headroom and interior space

Cons:

• Poor wind and rain protection

3. Wind Shed

Also called a fold-over wind shed, this tarp setup is a cross between a lean-to and an A-frame. Depending on the weather, you can set it up so the roof is flat (for more headroom and shade) or slanted (to repel rain). When the roof is slanted downwards (as in the drawing), the setup is called a “wind shield wedge.”

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline.
2. Drape your tarp over the ridgeline so approximately 2/3 is hanging on the windward side and the other 1/3 is on the leeward side.
3. Extend the longer side of the tarp to make an angled wall. Secure the corners to the ground.
4. Using rope or poles, secure the corners of the shorter side to make a roof.

Notes:

You can pitch using poles instead of a ridgeline, but it’s somewhat tricky. You’ll need a lot of rope to stake out the poles to make it stable enough. Even then, the roof ends up sagging and doesn’t hold up well in high winds.

Pros:

• Good headroom
• Fast and easy setup
• Wind protection from one side
• Some rain protection

Cons:

• Requires a lot of rope
• Guylines are tripping hazard
• Difficult to pitch with poles instead of a ridgeline

4. C-Fly Tarp Setup

The C-fly tarp setup is the same as the wind shield setup. The difference is that, with the C-fly, you fold under part of the tarp to create a groundsheet. Because much of the tarp is used for the groundsheet, you won’t have as much interior space or headroom.

As with the wind shield setup, you can keep the roof flat (for more headroom and shade) or angle it downwards (for better rain protection). When the roof is slanted downwards, it’s called a “C-fly wedge.”

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline about waist or shoulder height. A lower ridgeline will give you more weather protection but less headroom.
2. Fold the tarp under on line AB. This will be your groundsheet. It should be at least 2 feet wide for one person.
3. Drape the rest of the tarp over the ridgeline. AB should be on the windward side and CD should be on the leeward side.
4. Adjust the tarp so line CD is sitting on the ridgeline. The part hanging over the ridgeline (CDFE) will be your “roof”.
5. Pull corners A and B back to make an angled wall. Then stake them out.
6. Use rope or poles to secure points E and F to make a roof.
7. To make the shelter roof more taut, secure line CD to the ridgeline with a prusik knot.

Notes:

• To keep the wall and roof taut, secure points C and D to the ridgeline using a prusik knot.

Pros:

• Has groundsheet
• Adjustable height/interior space
• Decent weather protection

Cons:

• No weather protection on two sides
• Requires a lot of rope
• Can trip over guylines in the dark
• Difficult to pitch with poles instead of a ridgeline

5. Adirondack Wind Shed

This is one of my favorite tarp shelters. It offers very good weather protection while still giving you lots of interior space and headroom. One side is open, so you can have a fire in front of the shelter. Leave the “roof” up in good weather. If the weather gets bad, simply re-stake point D to pull the roof down.

The setup is also fairly flexible: you can experiment with folding the tarp at different places. Make the triangle folds bigger for more weather protection.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline about shoulder height.
2. Fold the tarp so triangle AEF is on the ground. The line EF should be on the windward side and point A on the leeward side.
3. Drape the tarp over your ridgeline. Line GH should be sitting on the ridgeline.
4. Pull EFHG back to create a wall. If you aren’t happy with the angle of the wall, adjust the height of your ridgeline.
5. Stake out points E and F
6. Pull point C inwards to create a side wall. Stake it down. Do the same with point B.
7. Using rope or a pole, stake out point D.
8. To make the shelter more taut, use a prusik knot to secure points D and G to the ridgeline.

Notes:

• If you want to use poles instead of a ridgeline with this setup, you’ll probably need a partner to help.
• Use fluorescent rope so you don’t trip over your guylines!

Pros:

• Good headroom and interior space
• Great wind protection
• Decent rain protection
• Has partial groundsheet

Cons:

• A somewhat difficult setup which requires practice to get right
• Uses a lot of rope
• Guylines are a tripping hazard

6. Body Bag Tarp Setup

Also called a tube tent, this is a simple tarp shelter. Because it is so small and uncomfortable, it’s really only for emergency situations. It is only closed on two sides. However, because the openings are so small, the tree trunks used for pitching will actually provide some weather protection. For even more protection, pitch next to a bush, boulder, or other natural protection.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline around thigh height.*
2. Fold the tarp along AB to create a groundsheet.
3. Drape the tarp over the ridgeline so CD is sitting on the ridgeline.
4. Adjust the position of the walls then stake out points A, B, E and F.

Notes:

• A 9×9 tarp will only give you a bit more than 2.5 feet of headroom at the highest point.
• I don’t recommend using poles for pitching the body bag setup. The roof will sag and there’s barely any headroom as is!

Pros:

• Good rain and wind protection from two sides
• Has groundsheet
• Quick and easy to set up

Cons:

• Open on two sides
• Claustrophobic inside
• No headroom and very little interior space
• Have to crawl inside

7. Shade Sail

The shade sail is also called the “hammock shelter” or the “diamond tarp.” Because it is pitched on the diagonal, you get more coverage. It’s popular for hammock camping and also as a sun shade for camp kitchens or even patios.

Note that the shade sail setup is not the same as the diamond fly. The diamond fly is also pitched on the diagonal, but one corner is staked to the ground. With the shade sail, both corners are elevated.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline.
2. Drape the tarp over the ridgeline. The diagonal midline should be on the ridgeline.
3. Use a prusik knot to secure the corners to the ridgeline.
4. Stake out the corners to create two angled walls. Keep the walls angled lower for more weather protection.

Notes:

• If you aren’t using a ridgeline, then just tie the diagonal corners to trees. Or attach to poles. However, the roof will sag a lot without a ridgeline.
• The guylines on this are serious tripping hazards. Use fluorescent rope!

Pros:

• Easy to pitch
• Lots of interior space
• Decent protection from rain and wind

Cons:

• Uses a lot of rope
• Guylines are tripping hazards
• Roof sags without ridgeline

8. Baker’s Wind Shed

The baker’s wind shed tarp setup uses a rectangular tarp. The tarp needs to be at least 10 feet on the long side if you want to sleep in it with your head towards the side walls. If your tarp is very large, you could also sleep with your head towards the back wall of the shelter.

I personally don’t like the baker’s wind shed setup very much. The Adirondack gives you more protection without sacrificing much space. However, the baker’s wind shed can be good when tarp camping with multiple people all sharing one big tarp.

Instructions:

1. Stake FG to the ground on the windward side.
2. Pull point A inward. Line AF should be at approximately 90 degrees with FG. Stake point A to the ground. Then the same with point D.
3. Attach points B and C to a ridgeline or poles.
4. Tuck corners E and H underneath the shelter to create a partial groundsheet. Alternatively, you can leave them outside the shelter.

Notes:

• Lines AB and CD are the height of the shelter when set up.
• An 8×16 foot tarp can be folded so line BC is 6 feet long. This will give you a max height of 5 feet and a depth of 9.4 feet.

Pros:

• Lots of interior space
• Protection on three sides

Cons:

• Need a long tarp
• Not lots of headroom

Tarp Setups with Diagonal Ridgelines

These tarp setups are good for when you only have one tree. You can also use a pole instead of a tree for many of these tarp setups. Unlike with the setups which use horizontal ridgelines, the roof won’t sag as much. Another benefit of these setups is that they don’t use a lot of rope.

You can get by with just 3 feet of rope for pitching some (though I recommend always bringing more just in case!). There is less interior space around the foot-end of the shelter, so the tarp will trap heat better. The drawback of this though is that they are claustrophic and you may need to crawl in feet-first.

9. Bivvy Bag Tarp Shelter

Also called the “cornet”, the bivvy bag tarp shelter is incredibly cramped (hence the name). However, it’s also one of the best tarp shelters for bad weather. You can pitch the bivvy bag on one tree or with a single pole. Unlike other tarp shelters which use poles, this one is actually easy to set up.

Ultralight backpackers will also love that the bivvy bag shelter requires just one guyline, so you save weight on rope.

What size tarp for a bivvy bag shelter?

You will probably want a 10×10 foot tarp for the bivvy bag shelter. The smallest size you can get away with is an 8×8 foot tarp. This will give you a shelter with an entranceway 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide and a length of 11 feet. But note that the groundsheet starts between CE (not at point D!). So, with an 8×8 tarp, the groundsheet length is only about 7 feet long. Because the end is so cramped, there’s actually barely enough room for a 6 foot tall person. You only get 3 feet of headroom at the place where the groundsheet starts and it gets narrow quickly.

Instructions:

1. Fold the tarp in half on the diagonal line AD
2. While holding the tarp upwards from point D, tuck sides AF and AB underneath so they are slightly overlapping each other. This will prevent the groundsheet part of the tarp from touching wet or muddy ground.
3. Stake point A to the ground.
4. Secure point D to a tree or pole.
5. Adjust the walls and then stake out points E and C.

Notes:

• The bivvy bag shelter is sometimes incorrectly called the
• Because of the shape, this tarp shelter is not good for two people.

Pros:

• Good weather protection
• Has groundsheet
• Uses almost no rope
• Can pitch with one tree or pole
• Traps body heat

Cons:

• Very claustrophobic inside
• No headroom
• Have to crawl inside feet first

10. Hunchback Bivvy Bag

The hunchback tarp shelter is a variation of the bivvy bag setup. It uses a pole to support the roof above the groundsheet. This allows you to angle point D downwards to create a “beak,” which means that the shelter roof blocks rain better.

Instructions:

1. Fold the tarp in half on the diagonal line AD
2. While holding the tarp upwards from point D, tuck sides AF and AB underneath so they are slightly overlapping each other. This will prevent the groundsheet part of the tarp from touching wet or muddy ground.
3. Stake point A to the ground.
4. Put a pole upright at point G
5. Secure point D to the ground
6. Adjust the walls and then stake out points E and C.

Notes:

• This tarp setup doesn’t need a ridgeline or trees at all, but I included it in this section so you can see how it differs from the classic bivvy bag setup.
• You can also set it up without a pole. In this case, you’ll create a tie-out point at point G and use guylines to attach it to a tree. Then you’ll tie the guyline at point D to the ground.

Pros:

• Great weather protection
• Has groundsheet
• Uses almost no rope
• Can pitch with one tree or pole
• Traps body heat

Cons:

• Very claustrophobic inside
• No headroom
• Have to crawl inside feet first
• Requires a pole
• Can easily knock pole over

11. Plow Point

Also called the plough point, flying V or diamond fly, this is another easy tarp shelter. You don’t need to use a ridgeline at all – just tie it directly to a tree. However, the plow point does have a tendency to sag if you don’t use a ridgeline.

Instructions:

1. Secure one corner of the tarp down on the windward side.
2. Tie the opposite corner to a tree or secure it to a pole.
3. Spread out the sides and secure down the remaining corners.

Notes:

• Tying the tarp higher will give you more headroom but less interior space and weather protection.

Pros:

• Very easy to pitch
• Uses very little rope
• Only needs one tree or pole
• Adjustable height and interior space
• Lots of room for gear storage

Cons:

• Hard to get sides taut without ridgeline
• No protection on one side

12. Half Pyramid Free End

I personally don’t like this tarp shelter setup very much. IMO, the A-frame closed end or diamond fly give better coverage while providing more interior space. The bit of groundsheet you get with the half pyramid isn’t enough to justify the lost interior space.

However, the half pyramid can be very useful when combined with other tarp setups. For example, you can use it to make a vestibule or close off the entrance of another setup. Or you can put two half pyramids together to make a fully-enclosed tent.

Instructions:

1. Fold point A under the tarp. Stake down points E and F.
2. Secure point D to a tree or pole.
3. Pull in point B to create a wall. Depending on the angle of the roof, you may need to fold under some of the tarp. Stake down the corner. Do the same with point C.

Pros:

• Lots of headroom
• Easy setup
• Can be used with other setups
• Decent weather protection

Cons:

• Only partial groundsheet
• Not much interior space

13. Forester

The forester is a more difficult tarp shelter to pitch. It doesn’t work well with tarps made from more rigid materials (like painter’s dropcloth). You are better off using silnylon or canvas. Once you master this pitch though, it’s incredibly useful. You get excellent weather protection without sacrificing usable space.

Instructions:

1. Stake down corner A on the windward side.
2. Fold point D downwards to create point G.
3. Support point G with a pole. It helps to have a partner hold it up for you while doing the next steps.
4. Pull point C forward to create wall ACG. Stake point C down.
5. Pull point B forward to create wall ABC. Stake point B down.
6. Spread out triangles CGE and BGF to make door flaps.
7. You’ll have a bit of extra tarp material hanging inside the shelter. You can use a clip to hold it out of the way.

Tip: If you are going to use this pitch frequently, I suggest making a little mark on your tarp where the pole should go. Also note the height of the pole. This will make it faster and easier to set up.

Pros:

• Excellent weather protection
• Doesn’t require trees
• Uses very little rope
• Lots of interior space and decent headroom

Cons:

• Difficult to pitch, especially alone
• Requires pole

14. Bunker Half Cone Fly

The bunker half cone fly is similar to the plow point in that both are pitched on the diagonal. The difference is that the bunker setup uses two additional guylines to pull out the sides of the tent. This creates a V-shaped roof and two almost vertical walls.

While the configuration means you get slightly less interior space, you get much more headroom. This makes the bunker suitable for multiple people and much more comfortable for multi-night stays. It’s also better for larger tarps because the additional guylines prevent the walls from sagging.

Despite looking easy, the bunker half cone fly is actually a bit tricky to set up. You’ll need a good tarp too since the guylines put a lot of strain on the sides and they can easily tear.

Instructions:

1. Stake point A to the ground on the windward side.
2. Tie point D to a tree or a pole on the leeward side. Alternatively, you can run a ridgeline from point A to a tree and connect point D to it. This will help prevent the roof from sagging.
3. Pull out point B and stake it to the ground. Do the same with point F.
4. Attach a guyline to point C. Pull it outwards and secure it to the ground. Do the same with point E.
5. If windy, stake down the edges on AB and AF

Pros:

• Good weather protection
• Lots of headroom in the front
• Large entryway

Cons:

• More difficult pitch
• Roof sags without ridgeline
• Requires two additional guylines

Tarp Shelters which Use Poles (No Trees Required)

These tarp shelters are a bit more tricky to set up because you’ll need to stake out the poles to keep them upright (which takes some practice). If you have a very large tarp, then you’ll need a long pole – which may require you lashing two poles together. But, these tarp shelters are good to know in case you can’t find a suitable tree for pitching against. They are also great tarp shelters for ultralight backpackers because you don’t need to bring much rope with some setups.

Note that there are also many UL tents which use trekking poles instead of normal tent poles. See the best trekking pole tents here.

15. Holden Tent

Also called the “A-frame closed end” shelter, the holden setup is one of the best tarp shelters for ultralight backpacking, especially with two people. It is very fast to pitch and doesn’t require any trees.

For a tarp shelter with three walls, there is actually a lot of interior space inside and decent headroom. Since the shelter is open on one side, it doesn’t feel claustrophic either.

My main complaint with the holden tent shelter is that you have to lay the tarp flat on the ground. This means that, if the ground is muddy, the underside of the tent completely dirty. Thus, for muddy weather, you are better off with a shelter like the plow point.

Instructions:

1. Lay the tarp flat on the ground.
2. Stake out points A, B and C.
3. Put a pole under the tarp at point E. You’ll need to angle it slightly forward.
4. Pull point D forward to create a wall then stake it down. Do the same with point F. You might need to have a partner hold the pole upright while doing this.
5. Secure the pole in position with a guyline.

Notes:

• Depending on where you stake down the walls, you will end up with either a square or triangular interior.

Pros:

• Good interior space
• Decent headroom
• Weather protection from three sides

Cons:

• Can accidentally knock over the pole when getting in/out
• Takes practice to pitch by yourself

16. Dining Fly

The dining fly is one of the most important tarp shelters to know for car camping. As the name suggests, it is great for creating a covered area for cooking and eating. It might take a few tries to figure out the optimal height and roof angle (and thus the right pole length and guyline position). But, once you figure this out, the dining fly is actually pretty simple to set up.

Instructions:

1. Lay the tarp flat on the ground where you want your shelter to be.
2. Attach guylines (about 4-6 feet long each) to all four corners of the tarp.
3. Stake out all of the guylines. They should be approximately 5 feet away from the corners of the tarp and set at a 45 degree angle from the corners.
4. Find two very long poles. If you can’t find poles long enough, you can join two poles together using round lashings.
5. Using half hitches, tie long guylines to the top of each pole.
6. Push the first pole underneath the tarp so it’s at middle edge. It helps to have someone hold this pole in place while you do the next steps.
7. Push the second pole underneath the tarp. Now the roof of the dining fly should be completely raised.
8. Stake out the guylines on the poles.
9. Adjust the guylines on the corners so the tarp is very taut.

Pros:

• Excellent headroom
• Lots of interior space

Cons:

• Uses two very long poles and a lot of rope
• Takes practice to set up, even with help
• Rain and wind enter from sides when pitched high
• Underside of tarp gets dirty when ground is muddy or wet

17. Toque Tent

The toque tarp tent is quite different from the other setups. Instead of having the pole in the front of the shelter, the pole is set in the back. This means you end up with more headroom in the back (but a really low entranceway). Two guylines pull on the entranceway to create an awning. This awning does a great job of repelling water away from the shelter. However, the toque tent isn’t very stable in heavy winds.

Instructions:

1. Fold the tarp so points A and B are together. Stake them to the ground together on the windward side. This is now called “point AB.”
2. Put a pole under point G. The bottom of the pole should sit on point AB. This will make sides AG and BG stand straight up.
3. Pull out point C to create triangular wall AGC. Stake down point C. Do the same with point F.
4. Attach guylines to points D and E. Pull them outwards and stake them down. This will create a low awning.

Pros:

• Pole at back instead of blocking entryway
• Good rain protection

Cons:

• Weird interior space
• Not very sturdy in high winds

18. Tarp Tent

The tarp tent configuration can be a bit confusing at first. But, it’s actually not that difficult to set up. It’s a favorite tarp shelter for ultralight backpacking.

Instructions:

1. Lay tarp flat on the ground.
2. Stake out points A and B.
3. Now stake out points C and D, making sure that folds AD and BC are nice and tight.
4. Tuck corner F underneath fold AD. Then tuck corner E underneath fold BC.
5. Point H is on the ground. Pull tarp corner G there and stake it in place.
6. Point J is also on the ground. Pull tarp corner I there and stake it down.
7. Put a pole underneath the tarp so it stands up at point K. Put a cloth over the top of the pole so it doesn’t tear a hole in your tarp.
8. You’ll have a flap of tarp hanging in the entryway to the shelter.
9. Attach guylines to the midway points on the flap (points L and M). Pull the guylines back and secure them to the ground along the walls of the shelter.
10. Run a guyline from point N to the ground directly in front of the shelter.

Pros:

• Excellent weather protection
• Decent interior space

Cons:

• Underside of tarp gets dirty if setting up on wet or muddy ground
• Slightly more difficult to learn
• Pole can get knocked over

Other Tarp Shelter Setups

Once you learn the basic tarp shelter setups, you will be able to experiment with variations to meet your needs — such as staking out an extra side to get more interior space or adjusting the position of the ceiling to block rain. Here are some examples.

19. Modified A-Frame

One wall of the tarp has been pulled outwards in the middle to get more interior space, but the sides are down for weather protection.

20. Kayak Pitch

This is essential an A-frame tarp setup with one side more slanted down than the other. Instead of poles, kayak paddles are used.

21. Large Bunker

This tarp setup a lot like the bunker half cone. However, there are extra guylines on the sides. This helps pull out the walls to keep them from sagging and to give you more interior space.

22. UL Tarp Setup

Pitching low to the ground means you get weather protection even from a tiny, ultralight tarp. The head area is staked a bit higher so it isn’t as claustrophic inside.

23. Wind Shed Variation

One walls slants and the other has a partial wedge to make use of the space and tree positions.

24. Wind Shed Variation 2

25. Half Tetra Wedge Cover

This is a flying half tetra wedge setup. The roof is angled downwards, which is great for directing water off the tarp in rainy weather.

26. Homemade Tarp

Here’s a very small, UL tarp made by Bob Cartwright of The Outdoor Station.

27. Umbrella

Here’s a way to set up a tarp so it makes an umbrella shape.

Image credits: “Pyramid and Tarps” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Finland_Canoeing_01” (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0) by jjay69, “Kitchen Tarp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Bob and Tarp” (CC BY-NC 2.0) by Andy Howell “Our Tarp at Petroglyph” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Tarp camp shelter” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Sheep Camp Tarp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Inner Point Camp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Sarah’s tarp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Tarp Camp on Deer Island, Ernest Sound,” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Tarp Camp, Inner Pt” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak

Going hunting? Need to touch up your gear? Look no further – creating your own camo pattern is easy! With the following tips, you can get that perfect, natural camo look in 15 minutes or less. Follow this easy, step-by-step guide to get the look.

What You Need

• Gear to spray paint
• Camo spray paint in black, brown, olive and khaki
• Drop cloth to protect from overspray
• Gloves (optional)
• Stencil (optional)
• Branches and leaves (ideally from the area you will be hunting in)

STEP 1: Prep your work area

Set up a spray area by covering your work space with a drop cloth. Make sure it is a well-ventilated area – outside is ideal. Using an all-purpose cleaner, thoroughly clean the inside and outside of your surfaces to remove dirt, oil and debris.

STEP 2: Paint your base

Depending on the surface, you may want to do a base colour on your project before layering with the camo pattern. It is always best to start with a base coat when you are working with a brightly coloured object.. One recommended product to accomplish this is Krylon Camouflage Spray Paint. For the base, layer the camo spray paint in black and brown using short, fast bursts. Keep layering colour until most or all of the original colour is gone.

Spray Tip: Make sure you read and follow the instructions on the can for proper spray distances, dry times and recoat timeframes. Products like Krylon Camouflage paint should be shaken for at least one minute after the ball has been released inside the can to ensure proper colour distribution. It is always recommended to test-spray on a scrap piece of paper or on your drop cloth before spraying your project. While painting, hold the can six to eight inches away from the surface and make sure to spray in smooth, even strokes to prevent drips or large areas of concentrated colour.

STEP 3: Create your camo

Layer leaves and branches over your project. Using the lighter colours (olive and khaki), spray in long, sweeping motions across the organic material. Remove the leaves and branches to reveal the pattern below. Repeat this process all around until you are satisfied with the pattern.

Spray Tip: Layer, Layer, LAYER! The more you layer the pattern, the more realistic it will look.

STEP 4

Let it dry. Spray paint typically dries in 15 minutes or less and can be handled in about one hour.

Quick Tips

• Choose the right pattern – pick branches and leaves from the area you will be hunting in to create a custom camo look to that area.
• Choose the right colours – layer colours so the hues that are most prominent in the area you will be hunting in are most featured. Always use an ultra-flat finish to ensure there is no light reflection.
• Pick a stencil – if you’re looking for a more traditional camo stencil, follow the instructions above, but instead of using natural stencils with leaves and branches, download them online. Krylon’s camo stencils can be found at krylon.com
• Light coats – for best results, use light, even coats instead of thick, heavy coats of paints. This will prevent drips and will also speed up dry time.

Nymphing: The act of fishing with artificial flies that imitate aquatic insects in their juvenile, larval state or other sub-aquatic lifeforms including worms and crustaceans that trout find irresistible. In other words, a fly fishing technique to catch lots and lots of fish in practically any body of water, any month of the year, and any time of day whether there?s a hatch happening or not.

Before mayflies, caddisflies, and stoneflies become creatures of the air, they spend their humble juvenile lives underwater as nymphs. Some cling to rocks in cocoon-like husks and some crawl around or scoot through the water, inevitably getting washed downstream by the river’s current.

Regardless of the specific species and how they look and behave, at some point, all nymphs “hatch,” leaving behind their sub-surface dwellings to become winged adults. They shed their nymphal exoskeletons, rise through the water column, emerge through the surface film, dry their wings, then head skyward to mate, lay their eggs, and die.

Why should you care about these strange aquatic insects and their anti-climactic life cycle?

Because nymphs are trout food.

And if you want to catch trout consistently ? both in size and numbers ? knowing how to fish flies that imitate nymphs is absolutely essential.

To get started, let’s dive into why you should be fishing in the first place.

A couple years ago I wrote a mini book, that I gave away at the classes I taught. Get a FREE Download eBook called – Expert Nymphing Secrets

Why Nymphing is More Effective than Any Other Style of Fly Fishing

Although dry flies get most of the attention and praise among fly anglers, the truth is that trout spend the vast majority of their time feeding underwater ? not on the surface.

And what are they eating down there?

You guessed it ? lots and lots of nymphs.

No matter the time of year or hour of the day, nymphs are present in rivers and lakes. And most of the time, trout are snacking away.

That’s why fishing nymphs is so effective ? since trout are always eating nymphs, you don’t have to time it right or wait for a hatch to catch fish. Simply tie on one or more nymph flies in approximately the size and color that matches the natural insects in the water and get to fishing.

When and Where to Fish Nymphs

The beautiful thing is that just about every type of water ? be it a fast-flowing freestone, a glassy spring creek, or even a stillwater lake or pond ? likely hold resident populations of aquatic insects. And like we mentioned, the nymphs are underwater all day long, regardless of whether a hatch is happening or not.

So no matter what stream or lake you’re on and when you’re fishing, you can use nymph flies to catch fish. The first key to success, then, is to know what kind of natural nymphs the trout are eating so you can match your artificial to the real thing. The second key is to know how to read the water in order to deliver your offering to the right spot with the proper presentation to entice a trout to bite.

We’ll get into the specifics of how to do all this later on, but the point is, if you know there are trout in a stream or lake, you can use nymphs to catch them.

What are my Favorite Nymph Flies

I’ve got a dozen articles on nymph flies. The best way to fill your fly box is to get a great foundation of flies. Pheasant Tails Hare’s Ears, Caddis, Midge….here are some pictures and sizes, plus a FREE download with my list.

Guide Tip: I probably shouldn’t be giving this away, but in the class I teach I have a download to help folks get a great selection of flies. Get the DOWNLOAD HERE

What Gear do You Need to Start Nymph Fishing?

Many times in fly fishing, going after a new species or learning a new style of casting requires an expensive trip to the fly shop to buy all new specialized gear. Luckily, this isn’t the case with nymph fishing.

Nymph fishing rods can get a little technical. If you really want to get into this kind of fishing, (it really catches lots of fish) you should think about getting the TFO Drift Fly Rod. It’s a 3 wt 9 foot fly rod in it’s basic form.

The ground breaking feature of this rod is that you can add length without un-stringing your fly line. The rod sections extend the rod from 9 foot up to over 12 feet. Read about the rod in this article – The Best Nymph Fishing Fly Rod or in my recommended gear section – HERE.

If you want to check the prices and reviews on the TFO Drift here’s a link to AMAZON – TFO Drift Fly Rod – Definitive Nymph Fly Rod.

Most of the nymphing techniques we’ll cover involve short casts, so a high-performance rod isn’t necessary. Unless you hook into a true giant, your fly reel won’t see much action when nymphing other than conveniently storing line ? most fish can be landed by stripping line by hand.

To give you an idea of the basic fly fishing outfit required for nymph fishing, here’s a quick gear list:

• Rod: 9-foot 4,5, or 6-weight, medium to fast action

• Reel: Standard single action fly reel matched to rod

• Line: Weight-forward floating line

• Leader: 9-foot nylon tapered leader

• Tippet: Spools of 3X, 4X, 5X, and 6X

Pretty simple, right? Of course, you’ll still need some flies and several other nymphing-specific pieces of tackle, but as long as you have that basic rod and reel setup, you’re ready to start putting the nymphing techniques we’ll cover to the test!

I’ve got an article called Nymph Fishing Putting it All Together (Link to article). It summarizes many of the articles on this website.

Winchester Repeating Arms added the Super X semi-automatic shotgun to its catalog back in 1974—a design that is now in its fourth generation—but it wasn’t until 2022 that the company produced a version that ejected to the left for use by the approximately 10 percent of the shooting public that is left-handed. Being offered in 12 gauge in several finishes, barrel lengths and chamber lengths, our test gun for the following evaluation was an example of the SX4 Left Hand Waterfowl Hunter with full-coverage Mossy Oak Shadow Grass Habitat camouflage, a shortened 26″ barrel and a chamber sized to accommodate up to 3.5″ magnum shells.

Like the rest of the line, the left-hand SX4s are semi-automatic, gas-piston-operated shotguns. Employing the company’s Active Valve gas system, the SX4 self-adjusts to the length of ammunition being used by venting out excess gas through four vents located at the end of the fore-end. This enables the gun to cycle reliably without imparting more felt recoil to the shooter’s shoulder than is necessary to cycle the action. As excess gas is expelled, so too is the resulting carbon fouling that would otherwise accumulate inside the action; this makes for a cleaner-running gun that also operates at slightly cooler temperatures.

As this gun is destined for field use, Winchester utilizes aluminum alloy for the receiver, resulting in a lightweight design that is also naturally corrosion-resistant, and the barrel’s chamber and bore are also chrome-lined for increased wear and corrosion resistance. A ventilated rib runs atop the barrel, which ends in a TruGlo red fiber-optic rod that looks like a lantern when presented to the early morning sky.

While the sight was made to stand out, the rest of our test sample—from the composite fore-end and buttstock to the receiver—was designed to disappear, as its entire exterior surface is finished in camouflage. Our shotgun was clad in Shadow Grass Habitat, but the Left Hand Waterfowl Hunter is also available in Mossy Oak’s Bottomland and Realtree’s Max-7 patterns, to help satisfy a variety of hunting pursuits.

The SX4 Left Hand’s controls are oversize everywhere it counts. The bolt handle protrudes a little farther than average, and the bolt release is large enough to manipulate through gloves. The same holds true for the crossbolt safety, which is reversible should you be left-handed but have right-handed muscle memory from shooting “backward” guns your entire life. The loading port is also enlarged, and we found that we were able to fill it to its four-round capacity without having to de-glove. On average, the gun’s single-stage trigger broke cleanly at 6 lbs., 2 ozs.

For our range day, we brought out a variety of shooters, both left- and right-handed, that varied in height and body composition. Although the shotgun comes with a set of interchangeable length-of-pull spacers, it felt good enough straight from the box that no one felt the need to alter the stock configuration. We decided to function test a variety of shells from Federal, including a 2 3/4″ Top Gun target load, a 1 3/4″ Shorty target load and a 3″ Black Cloud waterfowl load.

Of the three included flush-fitting Invector-Plus-style choke tubes (full, modified and improved cylinder), we chose the modified to pattern test the Black Cloud FS Steel ammunition. After averaging 10 patterns, we recorded an impact area that was only about 1″ high and 3″ left from our point of aim on the 40-yard targets. As this is a steel load, we noticed that the pattern had become rather large at that distance, putting even more pellets into the outer ring than it had the inner circle.

Many of the shooters commented on how soft-shooting the SX4 was, even with magnum loads, no doubt a combined result of the self-regulating gas system and the shotgun’s Inflex 1 recoil pad. Additionally, we all appreciated the moderately aggressive texturing on both the fore-end and the grip, as it was comfortable to the touch yet still served its purpose of anchoring the shotgun well.

Our left-handed evaluators enjoyed not having the moving parts in their face during operation and being able to easily single-load with their strong hand. Conversely, the righties remarked how helpful it was to have the action on the “other” side, as it made it easier for them to inspect and load with their weak hand if they so desired. All shooters found the shotgun easy to swing and agreed that their eye found the fiber-optic sight with little hesitation. The left-hand SX4 fired everything we fed it, including the Shorty shells—which is somewhat surprising, as it was not really designed to do so. However, although they pushed the action back far enough to be ejected, they could not lock it open.

Ultimately, the Winchester SX4 Left Hand Waterfowl Hunter is just a mirror copy of the right-hand SX4—which will be very welcome news for southpaw shotgunners—as we had previously been quite impressed by the design during prior evaluations, and we found the lefty version to be just as capable. While a small handful of other left-hand semi-automatics can be found on the shotgunning landscape, few offer the features, reliability and soft-shooting characteristics of the SX4 platform.

The difference between a 10 gauge and 12 gauge shotgun lies in the size of the bore, or interior diameter, of the barrel. A 10 gauge shotgun has a larger bore than a 12 gauge shotgun, which means that it is capable of firing larger and heavier shot.

The size of a 10 gauge shotgun barrel will vary depending on the make and model of the gun. However, in general, the bore diameter of a 10 gauge shotgun barrel is approximately 0.775 inches. This is larger than the bore diameter of a 12 gauge shotgun, which is typically around 0.729 inches.

The larger bore diameter of a 10 gauge shotgun allows it to fire larger and heavier shot than a 12 gauge shotgun. This can make it more effective for shooting larger game animals or for shooting at longer distances. However, the larger size and weight of a 10 gauge shotgun can also make it less maneuverable and more difficult to handle for some shooters.

10 gauge shotguns were once popular among hunters and were commonly used for shooting large waterfowl and other game animals. However, they have largely been replaced by 12 gauge shotguns, which offer a good balance of power and versatility.

One of the main differences between 10 gauge and 12 gauge shotguns is the amount of shot they can hold. A 10 gauge shotgun has a larger bore and is therefore able to hold more shot than a 12 gauge shotgun. This can be an advantage when shooting larger or more distant targets, as it allows the shooter to use more shot to increase the chances of a hit.

Another difference between 10 gauge and 12 gauge shotguns is the amount of recoil they produce. Because 10 gauge shotguns are larger and heavier, they tend to produce less recoil than 12 gauge shotguns. This can make them more comfortable to shoot for people who are sensitive to recoil or have smaller frames.

In terms of performance, 10 gauge shotguns are generally considered to be more powerful than 12 gauge shotguns. This is because they are able to fire larger and heavier shot, which can deliver more energy and penetration to the target. However, this added power comes at a cost, as 10 gauge shotguns are typically more expensive and heavier than 12 gauge shotguns.

What is the better for deer hunting?

It is difficult to say which type of shotgun would be better for hunting deer without knowing more about the specific circumstances, such as the type of terrain, the range at which the deer are typically shot, and the type of ammunition that will be used. In general, a 12 gauge shotgun is a more versatile choice for hunting because it can handle a wider range of ammunition and shot sizes than a 10 gauge. However, a 10 gauge shotgun may be a better choice for long-range shooting or for shooting larger shot sizes. Ultimately, the best choice will depend on the individual hunter’s preferences and needs. Here are more helpful tips on buying your first firearm.

The choice between a 10 gauge and 12 gauge shotgun will depend on the intended use and the preferences of the shooter. 10 gauge shotguns are powerful and versatile, but they are also more expensive and heavier than 12 gauge shotguns. On the other hand, 12 gauge shotguns offer a good balance of power and versatility and are suitable for a wide range of hunting and shooting applications.