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Vortex has a reputation of producing high-quality rifle scopes in a budget range that every buyer can afford. The best thing is, you don’t have to pay extra to get their VIP warranty, and you don’t have to wonder if you’re getting the best price.

Vortex scopes consistently hold their value as they’ve proven to be rugged, reliable, and accurate machines – as you will see in our Vortex optics reviews.

Whether it’s entry-level quality, a premium, HD scope, or something in between, you can expect you’re getting the absolute best in your price range.

Vortex – they’re doing their job: providing you with quality options. It’s time you do yours – make sure you buy a scope that is as ready as you are for every situation you’re brave enough to face, be it in the field, hunt, or at the range.

Best Vortex Scopes

Vortex Rifle Scope Reviews

1. Crossfire II 3-9X40 Review

The 3-9×40 specs never fail when you plan on using the same scope for a range of shooting applications. It’s also the easy pick in a lineup of similarly priced scopes because it’s made with high-performance quality iconic to the Crossfire II series.

Pros:

• Price
• BDC reticle
• FMC optics
• Capped/resettable turrets
• Fog/waterproof

Cons:

• Canted reticles

Take this thing out to the range or the field since you can holdover out to 500 yards with hashmarks for winddrift too. It’s easy to do with 60 MOA in travel adjustment, 1/4 MOA clicks, and the dead-hold BDC reticle. Once you’re sighted-in to your 100-yard zero, reset your turrets to “0” without any tools required.

With FMC (fully multi-coated) optics, a fast-focus eyepiece, and 3.8″ of eye relief, you’re all set to get Vortex image quality.

Unfortunately, canted reticles either happen at the range or out of the box – clearly a defect that Vortex’s VIP warranty can take care of. Good thing, it’s not the trend.

This isn’t a cheap scope like every other one in the market with a similar price tag. It’s a high-performing one with unmatched warranty coverage for range, tactical, and hunting use. For as popular as it is, it’s a good bet you know someone with this very scope on their rig – that’s why you’re here!

2. Strike Eagle 1-6X24 Review

Sporting an AR-15? For close to mid-range hunting, patrol, or law enforcement applications, the Strike Eagle 1-6x scope was made for it. With low variable power, an AR-BDC 5.56 reticle, and some high-end features to brag about, this scope is bound to please.

Pros:

• Price
• Glass-etched reticle
• Illuminated reticle
• AR-BDC reticle
• 30 mm tube

Cons:

• Restricting eyebox

There’s some anecdotal evidence that the Strike Eagle (SE) has an unforgiving eyebox. If you plan on shooting in 3-gun comps with the SE, you mightn’t appreciate the tight parameters to achieve the right eye-to-image alignment.

Fortunately, most buyers don’t experience any optical issues, and the glass-etched, illuminated, AR-BDC reticle makes for effective shooting in the hunt, on patrol, or for home defense. The AR reticle is designed for the popular 5.56 mm cartridge, and the illuminated segmented circle makes for rapid target acquisition.

With 1/2 MOA adjustments, a wide and robust 30 mm tube body, and low, capped profile turrets, it’s really not a wonder why it’s an extremely popular AR scope for the price. The SE is set and ready to take a beating and bring down targets both near and far.

3. Viper HST 4-16×44 Review

The HST series of scopes is the perfect combination of the Viper PST and HS lines. Favorite features are meticulously paired together with a tactical approach, and what you end up with is the long-ranging Viper HST 4-16×44.

Pros:

• Side focus
• 30 mm tube
• 4″ long eye relief
• XD glass
• Zero Stop

Cons:

• Windage turret issues

It seems a rare occurrence of various windage turret issues plague the buyer. Anything from backwards spinning adjustments to loose turret attachments is the cause of frustration – nothing the VIP warranty can’t handle.

This is a tactical scope all the way. It has tall, exposed turrets that definitely demands attention, a robust 30 mm tube that provides 75 MOA in adjustments, and a fiber optic radius and Mag-View bar.

The VMR-1 MOA reticle has hashmarks for long-ranging shots with holdover points for wind correction. The reticle is in the SFP (second focal plane), so crosshairs will stay thin and won’t obscure your target for tight groupings at extended ranges.

With Extra-low dispersion (XD) glass elements, you’ll have minimal, if any at all, chromatic aberration and the best clarity a side focus and XR glass coatings can achieve. The CRS Zero Stop is always a much-appreciated feature.

If you’re after a feature-packed scope, the HST has a long list of them.

4. Viper PST Gen II 5-25X50 Review

Precision. Accuracy. Long-range. If there’s a scope worth pulling the trigger on, it’s with a PST Gen II scope. High magnification, FFP reticle, and optimum clarity – nothing is beyond your reach.

Pros:

• XD glass
• Glass-etched reticle
• Illuminated/FFP reticle
• RZR Zero Stop
• 30 mm tube

Cons:

• Heavy
• Stiff magnification ring

It goes without saying that this scope is heavy at 31.2 oz. It’s the trade-off for all the features and build quality in this precision rifle scope. The magnification ring has said to be stiff, and there’s some demand from buyers that a throw lever be included as an accessory which would be convenient for the wide 5-25x power range, but it’s a separate buy if you want it.

The glass-etched EBR-2C reticle is in the FFP (First Focal Plane) so you can reliably use the illuminated holdover points at any point in the magnification range. With 10 illumination intensity settings and “off” positions in between on the side focus knob, you can shoot accurately at any time of day. The RZR Zero Stop feature allows you to sight-in, set your zero, and return to it with ease whenever you dial out.

With a 30 mm tube, you have 70 available MOA elevation and 35 MOA windage adjustments. XD (Extra-low dispersion) glass elements and XR FMC Coatings work together with the large 50 mm aperture to bring the brightest and clearest image quality you can expect from Vortex.

This is a lot to have in a scope, but when you demand precision, you must demand the absolute best.

5. Razor HD Gen III 1-10×24 FFP Review

Vortex has released the Gen III Razor HD and the 1-10x is more comparable in configuration to the Razor HD Gen II-E than the Razor HD Gen II. For those who understand how FFP reticles and focusing works on an LPVO, the Razor HD Gen III 1-10x will meet and exceed your expectations.

Pros:

• LPVO
• APO/ED optics
• FFP glass-etched reticle
• Friction Reduction System
• Low capped turrets

Cons:

• Eyebox at max. mag.

The Gen III LPVO has excellent eye relief of 3.6”, however the eyebox from 8-10x (max power) has said to be unforgiving, enough so to form complaints. As expected, max magnification is better suited to those who have the time to align themselves perfectly with it.

At 1x power, the FFP reticle does get small and there is some mention of fisheye effect. The ocular focus allows for crisp reticle focus on high-powered scopes, but on an LPVO it serves to focus the image. At 1x, it’s important to use the eyepiece ring to acquire a flat image at 1x if you experience distortion. Serving as the only focusing mechanism, it has been factory-set for parallax at 150 yards.

The optics are made with an APO system, ED glass, Optically Indexed Lenses, and XR FMC coatings. It has the works to provide edge-to-edge sharpness and color-true resolution.

The reticle is glass-etched, located in the FFP, and features the EBR-9 reticle in either MOA or MRAD with drop and windage compensation. The 1 MOA dot and segmented circle are illuminated with 11 intensity levels. The third turret illumination is complete with intermittent off positions and a locking mechanism.

Turrets are capped, low profile, and have ¼ MOA adjustments. The 34mm aluminum tube houses a premium brass alloy erector tube system with a chromium vanadium spring. It supports a steel-on-steel Friction Reduction System for tactile, accurate, long-lasting turret integrity.

It has optical, mechanical, and performance quality that will serve competitors, law enforcement, and target shooters well.

Other Vortex Scope Reviews:

• Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8×24 FFP Review (Range Tested)
• Vortex Razor HD LHT 3-15×42 Riflescope Review
• Vortex Viper HS 2.5-10×44 Riflescope Review (BDC Reticle)
• Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8×24 Riflescope Review (AR-BDC3 MOA Reticle)
• Vortex Crossfire II 3-12x56mm AO Hog Hunter Rifle Scope (with V-Brite Reticle)
• Vortex Optics Diamondback 4-12×40 Second Focal Plane Rifle Scope – Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (MOA)
• Vortex Crossfire II Review – 4-12×44 Rifle Scope with Dead-Hold BDC MOA (CF2-31015)
• Vortex Optics Diamondback HP 4-16X42 Rifle Scope w/ Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (DBK-10019)
• Vortex Viper HS 4-16×50 Long Range Rifle Scope Review (VHS-4307)
• Vortex Optics Viper PST 6-24x50mm FFP Scope w/ EBR-1 MOA Reticle (PST-624F1-A)

More Vortex Optics Reviews:

• Vortex Optics Reviews: Rangefinders & Monoculars
• Vortex Binoculars Review: Our Top 5 Picks of Their Best Binoculars
• Vortex Red Dot Review: Our Pick of Their 5 Best Sights
• Vortex Spotting Scope Review: Our Pick of Their 5 Best Spotters

Source of Images: VortexOptics.com

If your doggo loves to swim, a dog ramp is a must accessory for your boat! Be it taking your dogs out for a good time, a swim, or hunting, you’d definitely want to make their experience as comfortable and safe for them, wouldn’t you?

As much as you love your pet, it will definitely hurt your pocket to spend money on commercial dog ramps. The good news is that you can DIY your dog a functional boat ramp using affordable supplies all by yourself. And, the love and care you put into the DIY process is an added bonus!

Okay, so where do you start? You start by selecting a trustworthy tutorial for you to replicate. Here are 15 brilliant DIY dog ramps for boat ideas for you to choose from!

1. DIY Floating Boat Ramp Pool Ramp or Dock Ramp for Dogs

In this Youtube tutorial, Jennifer Turner elaborates to you on how she DIYed a floating boat ramp for her doggo for under $100. The supplies this DIY requires are two anti-fatigue mats, jumbo noodles, zip ties, and a nylon rope.

For those interested, this is the first part of the tutorial, and in this second part, she shares heartwarming footage of her dog getting used to its new homemade dog ramp.

2. Dog boat ladder instructions.

Cocozoo has shared a fantastic idea of building a dog ladder for a boat. He used 1.5’’ ABS pipe and a pine board for the purpose of this DIY. He further mentions that you can use a 1’’ pipe if your doggo weighs relatively lighter.

You might have plenty of queries regarding this project, don’t you? To your rescue, the user has even shared a plan along with his build experience. All your queries will most likely be answered there!

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3. DIY Dog Ramp

Internet is truly a fantastic place! Here’s another forum on DUCKhunting Chat where the user named Honkin shares his dog ramp build details with the rest of the users.

He used a 1’’X6’’ aluminum tubing with 12 inches inside diameter for the frame and a 12’’X12’’ interlocking sport court for the decking.

The reviews on this thread are rave. If you follow this idea, please let us know in the comments how did it work out for you.

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4. How to build a DIY Pet Ramp Start to Finish – Includes complete Drawings and Instructions!

Follow this DIY tutorial by James Mark Konstruction to build a dog ramp that helps your dog to climb up and down not only a boat but any other raised surfaces such as a car, couch, or bed.

Luckily, this tutorial features all the drawings, plans, and step-by-step instructions for this DIY project. Also, if you’d like to read a written instruction, the Youtuber has shared the drive link in the comment section. Hope it helps!

5. DIY DOCK & BOAT RAMP FOR DOGS

5 pool noodles, 2 anti-fatigue floor mats, 42 plastic zip ties, 2 big carabiners, and 6 feet rope – these are the supplies you need to build a brilliant DIY dock and boat ramp for dogs.

If you have all these supplies gathered, read this written tutorial by HALIFAX DOGVENTURES to construct the ramp.

All the steps are briefly described using documented images for your ease. This DIY looks incredible! Everyone in the comment section seems to be quite impressed by this idea.

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6. Dog Ramp for a Dock or Pool

Save hundreds of dollars on a dock or a pool dog ramp by following this easy tutorial by Eric Hurst. The Youtuber explains every step of this DIY project in detail.

He has further cleared his viewer’s confusion in the comment section and has shared more advice regarding the topic. Make sure you check them out! You might find your queries answered there.

Also, there’s a suggestion in the comment pointing out how the use of PVC instead of wood would result in a better product. What do you think of that?

7. HOW TO BUILD A DOG WATER RAMP FOR A BOAT

Are you a beginner at building a dog boat ramp? If yes, this post by Marine Waterline is perfect for you! From choosing the right material to budgeting to the description of each step in detail, you’ll find all the information you need in this blog.

Marine Waterline further has a range of amazing blogs and DIYs on boating, fishing, kayaking, and a variety of water sports. Do check them out if you’re into such stuff!

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8. Hobie Tandem Island DIY Dog Ramp by Rockin Robin Sails

Rubber mats, PVC, and life jackets – if you have these supplies handy with you, here’s the perfect tutorial for you! This dog ramp is two-layered, where the bottom level stays below the water surface, making it easy for your doggo to climb.

Especially if you own a Hobie Tandem Island, you need not make any changes to this DIY. Everyone in the comment section is applauding this video. Make sure you give it a watch!

9. Pool and Boat Dog Ramp Questions and Answers

If this is your first time planning to DIY a dog boat ramp, this question and answer post by Make And Build Dog Stuff will help you immensely. From DIY ideas and plans to clear some common doubts regarding the DIY, this post is a must-read for those aiming to build a boat or dock ramp for their dogs.

What’s more, this site features plenty of other useful DIY projects for proud dog parents. We guarantee it will be of great help to you!

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10. How to Make a Dog Ramp for a Pontoon Boat: 7 Ladder Ideas

This post by PONTOONopedia consists of not one but 7 brilliant DIY dog ramps for a pontoon boat idea.

From a sleek aluminum and stainless-steel metal ladder that requires professional metalworking skills to a simple DIY utilizing a rubber drainage mat and a few bungee cords, this post has covered it all!

However, remember that this is not a step-by-step DIY tutorial and, therefore, is only appropriate for those who are seeking ideas that they can bring into action.

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11. Homemade boat ladder for you and your dog (small boat)

This ingenious DIY boat ladder idea will leave you speechless! All you need is a used two-step stool, 2 hooks and 2 sets of stainless screw, nut, a few tools, and 30 minutes of work time to complete this DIY.

The hook on top of the ladder perfectly clicks with the boat hull, eliminating any need to permanently attach the ladder or a ramp to the boat, making it perfectly portable.

What’s more, this DIY is not only applicable for your dog but equally great for you when the situation demands it!

12. The Joy of Dog Boat Ramps

By now, if you’ve realized that DIYing a dog ramp is not for you and you’d rather choose to go with a commercial option, this post by Crownline is a must-read!

It features details including specifications and cost for Paws Aboard and Skamper-Ramp. Analyze the pros and cons and figure out the best dog ramp for your animal friend. We hope this blog helps!

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13. How A Duck Dog Should Ride In a Boat

While this is not a dog ramp for boat tutorial, this video by Bodie Drake surely is a must-watch for those who are always accompanied by their dog friends during their boating journey, especially if it’s a duck dog.

Watch this video to educate yourself on how you should train your duck dog to ride the boat such that they can transform into fantastic hunters. The Youtuber shares pretty solid tips and tricks in this video. Do check it out!

14. Boat Projects: Ramps For Dogs

This blog by LakeExpo not only features some of the best commercially available dog ramps but also has information on how you can DIY a dog ramp at the end of the blog.

For instance, you can use an aluminum extension ladder as a framework for the purpose. Not sure how exactly to repurpose an aluminum extension ladder into a dog ramp? Read the blog to find out!

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15. The 5 Best Dog Ramps and Ladders for Boats

While dog ramp DIYs are affordable and many of them don’t even require you to have expert handyman skills, let’s admit, some of us are definitely having conflicting thoughts on whether to DIY a dog ramp or to avoid all the efforts by simply buying a commercially available one.

Well, if you’re having second thoughts, here’s the latest list of best dog ramps and ladders available on the market.

Summary

From the idea that uses an old unused ladder to ones that use cost-effective supplies, we’ve got all types of dog ramps tutorials listed for you in this post.

We’ve further listed a few commercial dog ramps reviews for those having second thoughts. Now, the choice is yours! And in case you DIY a dog ramp, we’d definitely love to know your experience.

Nikon scopes have been frontrunners in the very profitable market of rifle scopes for decades.

However, Nikon abruptly changed its stance a few years ago, abandoning hunting, and rifle scopes, entirely.

This change has left many suppliers and loyal customers worried about the future of their products, myself included.

Let’s look at why the company chose to leave the rifle scope market.

I’ll explain what this means for Nikon’s customers and what optical products are still offered by their sport optics division.

Does Nikon Still Make Riflescopes?

As of 2022, Nikon is no longer in the rifle scope business.

Nikon wanted to distance itself from the hunting and weapons crowd, focusing on more consumer-friendly products and multi-purpose range finders.

It makes sense to discontinue their entry-level and mid-level range of scopes despite being a very profitable market.

This allows the company to divert its focus to its main product: cameras. Still, they will not leave the outdoor community entirely.

They will simply no longer carry weapon-mounted sights.

Is It Impossible to Buy Rifle Scopes?

While you can’t order Nikon’s scopes straight from the company, you can still buy any unsold models from a registered Nikon optics dealer.

Nikon migrated all their supply to third-party resellers to get rid of their current stock..

I’ve had to buy some Nikon scopes from outside sellers; fortunately, they still work as if they were brand new.

Once their supply has been exhausted, no new sniper scope will be made available.

Why Has Nikon Stopped Making Rifle Scopes?

In 2019, Nikon announced that it would leave the rifle scope market completely, selling off its remaining rifle scope line products to companies on its Focused Dealer Direct Program.

This shift in the distribution model from the traditional wholesale supply chain to the registered dealer-only program is one of two factors cited by a Nikon rep for the company’s departure from the rifle scope business.

Aside from open supply chain issues, the Nikon rep named the market itself and the fact that Nikon wanted to distance itself from it as one of the two factors that caused the company to abandon the line.

Sniping products have brought great shares to the company, but their scope lines have been making less and less money through the years as the competition grows fiercer.

The company had also received negative publicity over the use of its products in big game hunting.

This cuts into their bottom line and affects the sale of their other, more lucrative products.

These factors have led to the company’s internal decision to discontinue the production and distribution of weapon-mounted products.

How Does This Affect Current Nikon Scope Owners?

Nikon migrated their remaining stock of entry-level and mid-level range scopes to their accredited companies for reselling.

The company sees that focusing on more profitable product families makes sense.

I know I felt disappointed about this as I loved using Nikon’s scopes in the past.

Don’t worry, though. Fans of Nikon-produced optic products need not feel abandoned.

Plenty of companies still carry any needed replacement parts, and the company promises to honor customer commitments.

Still, it will take loyal users some adjustments as they look for different scope brands moving forward.

It’s unfortunate that many fans have sworn off Nikon because of this perceived betrayal.

Can I Still Buy Nikon Rifle Scopes?

The shift from the traditional wholesale supply chain distribution model to the registered dealer-only program has forced Nikon to cut its losses and return to cameras.

This, plus their effort to clean up their image and deviate from an extremely competitive industry, means that their sporting optics division (binoculars, spotting scopes, etc.) will be left without a rifle scope.

Thanks to the focused Dealer Direct Program, you can still find, and buy, any Nikon product you need!

That said, Nikon abruptly changed course without recalling and disposing of every rifle scope.

There is still PLENTY of current inventory available at any registered Nikon optics dealer.

You can find and purchase Nikon scope models and accessories through third-party sources.

If you don’t think Nikon scopes are for you, there are a lot of other scopes at affordable prices for you to check out!

Do Nikon Scopes Have a Lifetime Warranty?

While it may be impossible for hunters to look forward to a new rifle scope line from Nikon, warranty worries should be the least concern for long-time Nikon users.

The company has promised to continue offering and honoring lifetime warranties for any Nikon-produced scope.

Though Nikon does not plan on returning to the rifle scope business, it does plan to take care of any users who enjoy its extremely competitive rifle scopes.

The company announced that their rifle scopes are covered by a five-year limited lifetime warranty.

That gives me some reassurance, at least!

Fortunately, one of my Nikon scopes was still covered by the warranty, so no harm done despite the discontinuation of their scopes.

It encourages these scope users to continue using Nikon’s spotting scopes, cameras, and other shooting equipment.

Nikon Alternatives to Consider

Since Nikon is no longer in the rifle scope market, there are other brands you can turn to instead.

These brands work just as well as Nikon’s scopes, so you can’t go wrong with these alternative brands.

1. Leupold

Leupold is known for offering rifle scopes with high durability and affordable pricing.

My experience with Leupold scopes has been nothing but enjoyable, from their SUPER clear optics and ruggedness.

You can definitely trust this brand as it’s been in the business for over 100 years! They definitely know what they’re doing.

2. Vortex Optics

Vortex is one of the newer kids on the block, but their scopes have Leupold and Nikon beat in the pricing department.

You get EXCELLENT quality with contrasting colors and you don’t have to spend a fortune!

Plus, they also come with a lifetime warranty, so you have nothing to worry about.

3. Bushnell

Bushnell is another TOP-TIER company that produces precision optics that are great for large and small game.

And it’s not just scopes!

If you want to expand your outdoor gear, you can find high-quality red dots, rangefinders, and spotting scopes

Final Words

Nikon really cemented itself as one of the best rifle scope manufacturers ever.

While Nikon rifle scopes may be off the table, Nikon continues to offer its more profitable product families, whether they be cameras, binoculars, range-finders, or other scope products.

Have you ever wondered how a flash hider actually works, or what’s inside a suppressor? Confused about the difference between a brake and a compensator? Or maybe you’re just curious which muzzle device will help you shave a second or two off of your competition time – whatever the case may be, you’re in luck, because we’re doing a deep dive on the different types of muzzle devices and exploring the pros and cons of each one.

Flash Hider

While the name is fairly self-explanatory, the science behind flash hiders (also known as flash suppressors) is more complicated than you might think.

When a bullet is fired from a typical long-barreled rifle, most of the propellant is burned before the bullet exits the barrel. But with a shorter barrel, where there isn’t enough time for the powder to be fully consumed, the result is an almost instantaneous two-stage muzzle flash – the primary flash is caused by super-heated propellant gases trailing behind the bullet, and the secondary flash is caused by residual gases that ignite after being exposed to oxygen in the air, creating the infamous “fireball” that you’ve probably encountered if you’ve ever fired an SBR or shot a firearm without a flash hider (especially at night).

This created an obvious problem as militaries around the world began shifting towards shorter, more maneuverable carbines – while increased muzzle flash also made the shooter a more visible target, the bigger problem was that it significantly impacted the shooter’s vision during night-time engagements, and in extreme cases could even cause temporary blindness.

One of the earliest examples of a flash hider can be seen with the clamp-on conical flash suppressors used on Lee-Enfield Jungle Carbines in the later years of World War II, but the example that most shooters are probably familiar with is the A2 “bird cage” flash hider that comes standard on most AR-pattern rifles. But how does it actually work? The answer is that the holes or gaps in the flash hider divert the super-heated gases from the primary flash, while also minimizing oxygen flow and rapidly cooling the residual gases to reduce or eliminate the secondary fireball effect.

If you’re shooting a carbine or short-barreled rifle, often shoot at night, or frequently use cartridges that either require large powder charges or the use of slower-burning powder, a flash hider is going to be your best friend.

Muzzle Brake

When you fire a gun, the energy created by expanding gases is used to propel the bullet forward. And if we recall Newton’s Third Law of Motion, that means the same energy is exerted in the opposite direction, resulting in what we feel as recoil. In order to reduce that recoil, those gases need to be redirected – and that’s exactly what a muzzle brake is for.

While brakes were first invented to tame the recoil of artillery and vehicle-mounted gun systems, they eventually made their way over to the world of small arms as well. They became especially useful for reducing the recoil impulse of large-bore rifles and anti-materiel weapons, often cutting the felt recoil by as much as 50%.

In simple terms, a brake works by redirecting gases backward, typically at a 45-degree angle to the shooter. In effect, this “pulls” the weapon forward, counteracting recoil. Some muzzle brakes also come with one or more expansion chambers cut into them, which help to bleed off escaping gasses and reduce their momentum, further reducing recoil.

So who needs a muzzle brake? Typically, anyone who is shooting big-bore firearms with otherwise unmanageable recoil, though they are also popular among many medium-bore hunters who may have to fire from awkward positions or who want to be able to spot their hits at longer distances. They are also a common choice for shooters putting together lightweight rifle builds, since the reduced mass makes recoil more noticeable and there are many muzzle brakes constructed of lightweight aluminum or polymer that add negligible weight.

As with all muzzle devices, there are some trade-offs: the gasses diverted by a muzzle brake are still moving very quickly, increasing the perceived decibel level and concussive force of each shot for anyone who is in their path. If you’ve ever had the privilege of going to an indoor range and ending up next to someone running a brake, you know just how unpleasant it can be. Those gasses can also kick up dust and debris if you’re shooting from a prone position, which is something to keep in mind for those who live in drier climates.

Compensator

While some will argue that a compensator is just another type of muzzle brake, they perform a specific enough role to merit their own separate discussion. Whereas a muzzle brake is intended to lessen felt recoil, a compensator is intended to reduce muzzle climb (also known as muzzle flip). To accomplish that, there are two basic compensator designs: linear and radial.

A linear compensator redirects gas in a straight line forward of the shooter, reducing some of the noise and concussive force of the muzzle blast and making the firearm more comfortable to fire for the user and anyone standing nearby. Because they reduce muzzle climb less than a radial compensator, linear compensators are typically seen on short-barreled rifles or AR pistols, where recoil management is less of an issue than the decibel level and shockwaves generated by each shot.

A radial compensator usually (but not always) vents gases at a 90-degree angle to the shooter, and can often be identified by the holes, or “ports,” cut into it. Because each compensator must be specifically designed to suit the shooting platform it is intended for, there are naturally some unusual designs floating around, as well; the most famous example is probably the iconic AKM “slant brake,” which actually isn’t a brake at all – it is an aggressively angled compensator that is canted roughly 22 degrees off center to the muzzle in order to counteract the natural up-and-to-the-right recoil pattern of the AKM when fired by a right-handed shooter.

While compensators are great at what they do, and are a frequent mainstay of competitive events that require the shooter to deliver fast follow-up shots, there are a few things to keep in mind. Like muzzle brakes, most radial compensators will make even a relatively soft-shooting cartridge painful for everyone else around you, and the ported holes effectively shortens your barrel length, resulting in some loss of velocity. As well, linear compensators can create a very small amount of turbulence at the muzzle crown due to some of the gases actually being pushed out of the barrel faster than the bullet – for the vast majority of shooters, this effect will be unnoticeable, but those who are interested in extreme long-range shooting or precision benchrest shooting will likely want to look elsewhere.

Suppressor

First things first: No, “silencers” aren’t really silent. Suppressors reduce a firearm’s muzzle report by reducing the speed and pressure of the gas created when a cartridge is fired, and while the effect can be significant, it’s not as dramatic as Hollywood would have you believe.

Suppressors work by using a series of sound baffles to create a sort of “maze” for the gases to navigate, causing them to slow down and cool off enough to reduce the sound of the gunshot. These baffles are usually made of a lightweight metal such as titanium or aluminum, though a few manufacturers have successfully used plastic baffles for .22 LR suppressors. These baffles can either be machined out of a single piece of metal, in which case they are called a “monolithic core” suppressor, or they can be manufactured in multiple pieces and combined in a “baffle stack” suppressor.

Generally speaking, a monolithic core suppressor will be less expensive, easier to clean, and less prone to experiencing a baffle strike, while a baffle stack suppressor will be slightly quieter, shorter, and able to make use of alloys such as Inconel that are more efficient but also more difficult to machine into a monolithic design.

While suppressors are by far the most expensive muzzle device on this list, and also require the extra expense and legal headache of securing an NFA tax stamp, they are a great all-around option for those with enough patience and money. Not only does a suppressor dramatically reduce noise, it also eliminates muzzles flash by cooling the gases as they travel through the baffles. Not only that, muzzle climb and felt recoil are slightly reduced thanks to the reduced energy of the gases and the added weight and length of the suppressor. They’re an increasingly popular choice for hunters who don’t want to scare off nearby game or use bulky ear protection, and if you’re building a rifle for home defense, a suppressor will ensure that you are not temporarily blinded by muzzle flash in a dark room or subjected to permanent hearing damage.

The Bottom Line

As is often the case when it comes to firearm accessories, choosing the best muzzle device for your needs ultimately comes down to your mission. While the standard flash hider that comes mounted on many modern rifles is perfectly adequate for most situations, upgrading your muzzle device is often a relatively inexpensive way to squeeze some extra efficiency or better performance out of your gun, whether you want a jack-off-all-trades tool or a highly specialized setup.

BY CURTIS NIEDERMIER

They say birds make the bird dog, meaning the more contact your pointer or flusher has with live birds, the more effective he or she will be as a hunter.

Whoever “they” are never said those birds have to be actual wild upland game species. A small flock of homing pigeons makes a great substitute for the real thing. Homers are easy to obtain and fly well on the flush. They’re durable, disease-resistant, and in most areas can be kept and used for training without any special permits. Best of all, pigeons can be trained to home back to your coop to be used again later, which makes them a highly affordable option for long-term training.

Chad Hines, owner of Willow Creek Kennels in Little Falls, Minn., offered up some tips on how to assemble a flock of homing pigeons and put them to work.

BUILD A FLOCK Hines suggests starting with 12 to 15 birds for training one or two dogs. Adult pigeons can’t really be trained to home. Seek out young birds, which are called “squeakers.” They’ll have soft beaks and actually squeak when you pick them up.

It’s possible to trap feral squeakers along with adult birds (use the adults as “kill birds”) in barns and under highway overpasses, but Hines buys most of his birds from pigeon-racing hobbyists. Racing birds can sell for thousands of dollars, but in most areas, squeakers cost $5 to $20 apiece.

TRAINING HOMERS Keep new birds in the coop for about two weeks before flying them. During that time, teach them to use a recall funnel by temporarily fixing a wire box to the outside wall around the opening of the funnel. From the inside of the coop, put the birds through the funnel and into the box. After a few tries, they’ll learn how to get back into the coop.

Once his birds can use the funnel, Hines flies them daily. He starts by keeping them close to the coop and then gradually increases the distance.

CARING FOR BIRDS Pigeons are easy to keep. Buy a gravity-style poultry feeder and fill it with corn or commercially sold game-bird pellets. Add a rubber tray with sand for dusting and some type of grit. Clean their water daily, and add a teaspoon of vinegar in the winter.

BUILD YOUR COOP A coop can be a plywood box or an elaborate pigeon condominium. The simplest structure is a repurposed pre-built garden shed like the kind sold at big-box hardware stores. A 10-foot-by-12-foot shed can house 40 to 50 birds without overcrowding, but first you’ll need to make a few modifications.

• Nail short pieces of 2-by-4 boards between the studs as perches. • Add nesting boxes if you plan to raise young birds. A 5-gallon bucket screwed to the interior wall works well. Cut a half-moon-shaped opening in the lid, and screw the lid in place. Add some straw to the inside. • Affix a wire aviary along an outer wall with a door to allow the birds to enter. • Install a wire recall funnel through one wall. The funnel should taper down from about 8 inches to 6 inches in diameter. Add a wooden shelf or perch beneath the exterior opening.

Even if you are not a milsurp guy or gal, you’re gonna like this one.

It’s the one 20th century rifle that everyone should at least consider owning: the Swiss K31.

From watches to rifles, Swiss machining is legendary for quality, precision, and beauty.

The K31 exemplifies all of these!

We’ll cover our usual review topics of accuracy, shootability, reliability and more. PLUS some tips on how to get the best K31 for your money.

And wooh, we got a full video review too from our YouTube Channel:

Popularity

The Swiss K31 has surged in popularity in recent years, and with good reason. They’re unique, fun to shoot, and stupid accurate.

Folks love these rifles and I think you are going to see why.

I’m going to give you an easy overview, get three K31s out to the range, and at the end, I’ll have a quick buyer’s guide for you.

Different

Adding some lumber to your firearm collection is a nice reprieve from black plastic guns. And the K31 is different even from other milsurp rifles.

Known for the straight-pull bolt, the beer keg charging handle, and that gorgeous Swiss shield, the Karabiner 31 or K31 is desirable for both shooters and collectors.

Plus they are not for collecting dust, they’re for taking to the range.

Shortest History Lesson Ever

Before the K31, there were multiple variations of the Swiss straight-pull bolt rifle. But these were too long and too heavy.

The Swiss military did a rifle redesign in 1931, and the Karabiner Model 1931 was born. It was issued from 1933 to 1958 with total production of about half a million.

Cool thing is that after Swiss soldiers finished their mandatory service, they could purchase their issued rifles. So there are loads of these guns which have been kept and maintained for a lifetime.

And often these guns reach the US surplus market in fantastic shape.

Accurate

The K31 has a reputation for excellent machining and craftsmanship which yields legendary accuracy.

Keep in mind that the technology in this gun is a century old, but the gun even today feels like a precision machine.

And working that straight-pull bolt is a fantastic experience at the range.

The Stocks

The stocks in the earlier models are all walnut, and from 1945 forward the stocks are all beechwood.

So an easy eye test is light stocks are newer, and dark stocks are older.

Ammo

The K31 fires the 7.5 x 55mm Swiss round, also referred to as G11, but most just call it “7.5 Swiss”. Ammo is readily available, and the rifle can fire modern production ammunition.

The box magazine is self-locking and holds six rounds. Waxed cardboard clips are available for faster loading, but I usually eject the mag and load by hand.

At the Range

After 75 years of field testing, the accuracy of this rifle is not up for debate. Rounds will go where you send them, and you’ll see guys on YouTube take the K31 out to 1,000 yards with iron sights.

So for this test, I didn’t do a test at all. I just took a ton of ammo and enjoyed getting shots on target with something that’s not black and plastic. I shot from my shoulder at 75 yards with iron sights.

I fired PPU 174-grain ammo and was able to ping torso steel no sweat.

All three rifles I tested ran perfectly. Absolutely zero problems. These guns run.

The Pain

Lot of military rifles are murder on your shoulder, but the felt recoil on the K31 ain’t bad. I’ll call it medium. It’s certainly manageable.

The Sights

The rear sights have a leaf spring that is adjustable at 100 yard intervals. And the front sight is adjustable for windage with a nifty sliding design.

Other sight options are available, including the desirable diopter sights, but for anything other than standard iron sights, you’re gonna pay a hefty price.

The Trigger

The two-stage trigger is super easy to get used to. The first stage is ultra-light, and when you hit the second stage there is a clear wall.

Pull comes in between 3 and 4 pounds and the break is clean and overall I like the trigger.

The Downside

Not many negatives with this rifle. You’ll hear guys say that there is no positive extraction in the design, or that at 9 pounds it’s heavy, but for me I take those things in stride.

Worst I can say is that the ammo is expensive.

Troop Tags

This is where Swiss guns just get doggone cool.

On the day that these rifles were issued, the soldier’s name, birth year, and location of issue were written down on a small white tag and placed under the buttstock cap.

These troop tags are the Holy Grail of Swiss rifle collection.

Maintenance

Because most rifles of this age have worn bluing and exposed steel, I am a little more mindful of how I maintain my K31s compared to a modern black rifle.

I clean and oil after every range trip, and I don’t handle the rifle without a quick wipe down.

A complete teardown and deep clean can be done in half an hour.

K31 Buyer’s Guide

Shopping for a K31 is easy peasy. 7 quick steps!

1. Identification

There are lots of different Swiss military rifles, but to identify the K31, look for the Swiss shield on the receiver, and the aluminum beer keg charging handle.

Lots of other Swiss rifles have beer keg handles, but they are all reddish bakelite. Again, look for the aluminum.

2. Overall Condition

Look for the condition of the bluing and how much steel is exposed on the barrel and receiver. Look for rust. Look for cracks in the stock. Put a light in the barrel and look at the lands and grooves.

If you are shopping online, all good dealers will give you solid descriptions with photos.

3. Serial Numbers

The most desirable rifles have matching serial numbers on all the major parts including barrel, receiver, bolt, stock, handguard, and magazine.

4. Production Year

Because the Swiss did not participate in WWII, there is no pressure to get War-era rifles. K31s from the 1950s are just as desirable as earlier models.

Basically, the production year doesn’t matter.

5. Extras

I tested three standard run-of-the-mill K31s. But like all military collectibles, you can get lost in the weeds. There are rifles with diopter sights, sniper models with scopes, and guns with decades of provenance.

And you’ll pay more for extra features. But the good news is, if you are new to K31s, you can get a standard rifle in good shape without paying extra for rarer models.

Any K31 in good shape is going to be a winner!

6. Troop Tags

If you find a numbers-matching rifle in good shape with a troop tag, buy it. Just do it, period!

7. Price

For the K31 goes up and down, but right now a numbers-matching K31 in solid condition is $500-800. Double that price for rifles with diopter sights.

By The Numbers

Reliability: 5/5

Keep it clean and this gun will run for another 100 years.

Ergonomics: 4/5

To be fair you’re holding a giant piece of lumber. But the pistol grip feels good and grabbing that beer keg handle is addicting.

Accuracy: 5/5

The free float barrel, precision engineering, and Swiss clockwork trigger combine for legendary accuracy. If you miss, it’s on you.

Customization: 0/5

If you even think about drilling the receiver for a scope mount, you need to sit in the corner and think about your decisions. Don’t change anything, Bubba.

Value: 4/5

True you can get other milsurp rifles for half the price of a K31, but you won’t get the precision or shootability. A lot of value for the price.

These are almost always available on GunBroker and sometimes on Guns.com!

If you’re unfamiliar with either, take a look at our reviews for both GunBroker and Guns.com.

Overall: 4/5

There’s not much to dislike about the K31. It’s easy to use and maintain, fun to show friends, and performance on the range is stellar.

Conclusion

The K31 is a fun to shoot, fun to show off, and even fun to disassemble milsurp gun that is accurate and a good bang-for-the-buck, but it’s heavy and ammo can get expensive.

I had a blast with this project. Even if you are not a milsurp guy, it’s great to get at least one gun into your collection that isn’t black and plastic.

And the artwork on the receiver is a big plus.

One more time…our video review!!

Love some more milsurp? Check out our Best Milsurp Rifles You Can Still Buy.

There are many adventures to add to your hunting bucket list, and pronghorn antelope hunting should be one of them. They provide hunters a good opportunity to fill a tag and have lots of fun during their spot-and-stalk hunt along the way. Pronghorn antelope live in regions with wide-open and expansive fields, grasslands, and rolling sage brush. They are common in many locations across the American West, but the following six states are our picks as the best states to hunt for pronghorn antelope.

Wyoming

The top pick for the best place for pronghorn antelope hunting is Wyoming. There are more pronghorn antelope in Wyoming than in any other state in the country. Of the approximated 1,100,000 pronghorn roaming throughout the country, the Wyoming Game & Fish estimates that 500,000 are in Wyoming. This means there’s a very stable population and excellent odds for a successful pronghorn hunt there.

Public land access is abundant in the western half of the state, thanks to a large amount of Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Federal lands. These tracts support a lot of antelope. Because of this, the demand for tags in western Wyoming is high. It might take a few years of applying before a hunter can draw a tag. It is a different story on the other side of the state. In the eastern half of Wyoming, antelope tags are much easier to draw, but public land access is more scarce. Most of the land in that part of Wyoming is privately owned. There are some pockets, however, where the state has arranged public hunting access into private property via the Walk-In-Only and Hunter Management Areas programs.

Arizona

Arizona is home to approximately 10,000 pronghorn, which are found mostly in the north-central portion of the state. Despite this lower number (relative to Wyoming), the pronghorn hunting in Arizona has been called the best in the world. Arizona is also consistently the top producer for record-class pronghorn. Prior to 2013, the pronghorn world record was shared by two bucks, both harvested in Arizona. Drawing a coveted Arizona pronghorn buck tag can be tricky, though. As in other states, hunters may have to apply for a tag year after year before finally drawing one.

New Mexico

Another place known for big pronghorn bucks is New Mexico. The Boone & Crockett world record came from New Mexico in 2013, when a buck harvested there surpassed the previous record by a decent margin of an inch and a half.

There is ample access to public land thanks to wide swaths of BLM lands. The biggest challenge in New Mexico isn’t finding big bucks or public land—instead, it is getting ahold of a non-resident pronghorn tag. In New Mexico, only 6 percent of the state’s tag allocation is set aside for hunters from out of state. The state’s lottery draw system gives everyone a fair chance, but the odds are not in their favor. One way to get around this is to hire a private guide or an outfitter. This is a good option for hunters who are unsuccessful in the lottery draw.

Texas

Texas has a sustainable population of pronghorn in the Trans-Pecos, Permian Basin, and Panhandle regions. As in other warm southern states, the pronghorn here get large. That is because they don’t have to expend so much energy to survive the cold winter months. In Texas, the hunting season for pronghorn is short, only one week. Don’t count Texas out, though—it is a great place to squeeze in some pronghorn hunting.

Colorado

Colorado has a healthy pronghorn antelope population of around 70,000. Pronghorn can be found in most areas throughout the state. The situation in Colorado is similar to that in Wyoming: On one end of the state, public land is plentiful but tags are difficult to acquire; and on the other end, tags are easy to get but access to land is not.

Montana

Montana is a solid option for pronghorn hunting. Access to public lands in most regions is plentiful. Hunters have a lot of options, including BLM lands, state lands and Montana’s Block Management Access system parcels. Montana Fish, Wildlife, and Parks estimates a statewide population of 158,000 pronghorn antelope. That makes it second only to Wyoming. Plus, the hunting season is longer than in many other states.

Non-resident tags can take a few years to draw; but unlike in some other states, hunters don’t typically have to wait decades to draw a Montana pronghorn tag. The bucks do not get quite as big as in some Southern states, but hunters have a decent chance to harvest.

READ MORE: 5 BEST STATES FOR BLACK BEAR HUNTING

To most people, spring fever means days on the water, family cookouts in the backyard, and a long-awaited wardrobe transition. For turkey hunters, however, the mainstream intrigue is only secondary to the nonstop chaos of breeding competition among gobblers, and all of the incredible hunting opportunities the season brings. The same hunters get restless once they have a taste of the action, itching all year long to get back into the budding woods with a shotgun and a repertoire of calls and strategies they’ve been sitting on since last season. And, while good game calls and effective hunting blinds are necessities, nothing throws an exclamation point on a turkey hunting approach better than some well-placed decoys. With such a large market for decoys, however, it can be difficult to know which ones are worth spending your money on.

Sometimes a big Tom just needs a little extra motivation to con him into archery or shotgun range, so we did the research to find the best turkey decoys on the market today.

Avian-X HDR Jake and Hen Turkey Decoy Combo

This combo is perfect for areas full of especially aggressive birds, as they offer a wildly lifelike appearance that’s sure to bring big Toms in on a string. Each decoy is blow-molded and comes with two interchangeable heads to change up your presentation on the fly. And to make things more convenient in the field, they come with a carry bag for easy transport to the field, as well as carbon ground stakes for a quick-and-easy setup.

MOJO Outdoors Tail Chaser Max

For the hunters who like the run-and-gun approach, this is a hard option to beat. This turkey fan decoy comes with a printed photo-realistic Tom in a full strut position, which folds up for portability. It also features legs that help give your gun a steady rest for the shot, which will probably come in handy after being on the move just to get into position. And, if you want a little more realism, you could always attach a real turkey fan, too. At $40, this is a bargain.

Lucky Duck Lucky HD Collapsible

This is a solid, versatile option for only $70. If you’re lucky, you might even find it on sale for less. Made of durable plastic and a folding metal stake, this strutter turkey decoy folds up to make it easier to transport. Similar to the last option, this fan is also removable if you prefer having a real one, which might give you a slight edge to draw in that old, aggressive gobbler.

Dave Smith Decoys Jake Turkey Decoy

The Dave Smith brand has a great reputation for turkey decoys of exceptional quality, but they do come at price. This Jake decoy is made of a resin and has over 70-perfect five-star ratings on the Cabela’s website. The company claims its decoys can stand up to being shot multiple times without showing damage. Each includes a ground stake and a handy carry bag for transportation, and features exceptional attention to detail.

Primos Gobbstopper Turkey Decoy Combo

Anything from Primos typically lives up to the hype these days, and these soft-sided decoys are no different. Each decoy included in this combo folds up quickly with stakes and a carry bag, making them great for when you need to wander far off the beaten path for that prime spot. For $70, you get a Jake and a hen that are sure to enrage any big gobbler that sees them. Boasting a high rating on the Cabela’s website from buyers, this is a great option for shopping on a budget.

Dakota Decoy X-Treme Feeding Hen

If you want a hard plastic decoy that is designed to last many seasons, this feeder hen is a solid choice. This is perfect for a more casual setup sure to ease the nerves of hesitant birds. Built of EVA plastic, this decoy is airbrushed with fine details that will consistently draw in big birds. Additionally, the metal stake stores inside the body when not in use.

Montana Decoy Fanatic

Another fan decoy built for stalking, this option offers great portability, as well as a see-through mesh window so you never have to break the illusion of another bird. This setup allows you to sneak up on those birds that are wary of your stationary decoys. For a mere $44, you can’t go wrong.

Flextone Thunder Chick Hen Decoy

Besides having an awesome name, this is a solid decoy at a price that’ll fit almost any hunter’s budget. Blow-molded and built of a one-piece construction, this decoy boasts both durability and simplicity. Flextone also includes a carbon-fiber stake, and offers both a feeding and an upright option, which gives you flexibility in your setup. Ideally, you can buy more than one and set up a variety of different looks to coax cautious birds.

Davey Smith Mating Motion Pair

If the big birds are too wary of your strutter decoys, you may need something more to draw them in. Few decoy setups spice things up more than a controllable mating pair. A cord allows you to manipulate gobblers with this Jake-and-hen combo, which presents the potential to absolutely enrage territorial gobblers that ignore every other kind of setup. Like any other Davey Smith decoy, this combo isn’t cheap, but users swear by its effectiveness. It also comes with ground stakes and a carry bag.

Hunter’s Specialties H.S. Strut Hen and Jake Combo

These two foldable, hollow-body decoys are sure have the big gobblers running, and at an affordable price. These decoys feature flake-resistant paint that should last season after season. Both are bright and colorful, guaranteeing at least a look from any curious gobbler nearby. For the hunter on a budget, you get two solid decoys for $70.

Avian-X Strutter

For one of the best Tom turkey decoys on the market, it’s hard to go wrong with the highly-rated Avian-X. This strutting decoy comes with a silk tail standard, but includes the ability to add real feathers. Many hunters consider this the gold standard for strutting gobbler decoys, as so many have tagged out using it.

Redhead Reality Series Crazy Jake

Nothing will fill a dominant Tom with rage more than a young Jake strutting in his territory. This one is smaller than other strutting decoys, which should prove less intimidating for birds that are shy of standard-sized decoys. You can also adjust the look by mounting a real tail fan or by trimming the beard. For $50, this is a bargain.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

READ MORE: HIGHLIGHTS FROM OUR WEST TEXAS TURKEY HUNT

Yellow mushrooms commonly grow in front or backyards and seemingly appear from nowhere. You can find yellow mushrooms growing in lawns, flower beds, under shrubs, in forests, and on rotting tree trunks. The yellow fruiting bodies can have cylindrical stems, dark or light-colored gills, and a flattened or rounded cap.

Some varieties of yellow mushrooms, like golden chanterelles and yellow oyster mushrooms, are edible. However, many varieties of yellow fungi are poisonous, and eating them can result in severe gastrointestinal upset. Additionally, some yellow mushroom look-alikes like jack-o-lanterns resemble edible varieties like chanterelles.

This article is a basic guide for identifying common yellow mushrooms in yards, lawns, and woodlands. It does not provide advice on distinguishing edible yellow mushrooms from poisonous ones. Foraging mushrooms for consumption requires expertise and experience. The National Capital Poison Center warns you should “never pick and eat wild mushrooms unless they’ve been identified by an expert.”

Why Yellow Mushrooms Grow in the Yard

Yellow mushrooms grow in yards when conditions are right. Yellow mushrooms grow vigorously in soil with plenty of organic matter and in damp conditions, warm temperatures, and high humidity. They flourish in damp soil under decomposing leaves and decaying plant material. You may also find spongy yellow mushrooms growing on trees.

It’s good to note that finding yellow mushrooms in your yard indicates that the soil is healthy and rich in organic matter. Having conditions encouraging diverse yellow mushroom species to flourish adds biodiversity to your yard’s ecosystem.

Yellow Mushrooms in the Lawn

Yellow mushrooms thrive in lawns due to favorable conditions such as moisture, decaying organic matter, and shade provided by grass. Fungi form a symbiotic relationship with grass roots, aiding nutrient absorption. Lawns offer an ideal environment for these vibrant fungi to sprout and contribute to the ecosystem.

Common types of yellow mushrooms you are likely to find in lawns include yellow fieldcaps (Bolbitius titubans), golden chanterelles (Cantharellus cibarius), golden waxcap (Hygrocybe flavescens), golden spindles (Clavulinopsis fusiformis), and jack-o-lanterns (Omphalotus illudens).

Related reading: How to get rid of mushrooms in a lawn.

How to Identify Yellow Mushrooms

To identify a yellow mushroom, mycologists examine the shape, color, texture, and appearance of gills under the cap. Many mushrooms have a skirt-like ring on the stem. You can also tell a lot about a yellow mushroom species by the stalk’s appearance and odors the yellow fungi emit. Also, some yellow mushrooms change color when bruised or cut.

Types of Yellow Mushrooms (with Pictures): Identification Guide

Let’s look in detail at the diverse range of fungi species with yellow, canary-colored, or golden-yellow stems and caps.

Golden Chanterelle Mushroom (Cantharellus cibarius)

The golden chanterelle is an edible wild mushroom with a vibrant golden-yellow color. Identifying features of the tasty yellow mushroom are its vase-shaped, upturned cap, wavy margins, yellowish gills, and apricot-like aroma. Also called girolles, the fungi grow 1” to 3” (2.5 – 7.5 cm) tall, with a cap up to 4” (10 cm) wide.

Golden chanterelles are often found in lawns, forests, and naturalized areas. The vibrant pale yellow to dark yellow-orange mushrooms appear in late summer to late fall. In some cases, red dots appear on the caps if the mushroom is damaged.

Golden chanterelles have poisonous look-alikes called jack-o-lantern mushrooms. Therefore, you must be careful when foraging for the yellow-orange mushrooms.

Mud Puppy Mushroom (Cantharellus californicus)

The mud puppy is a type of creamy-yellow to bright-yellow wild mushroom native to North America. The yellow mushroom is characterized by caps in an irregular vase shape and pale gill-like ridges on the stem. These yellow woodland mushrooms grow 2 to 12” (5 – 30 cm) tall.

You will often find mud puppy mushrooms growing near streams or in wet habitats. Also called oak chanterelles, the orange-yellow mushroom species is found sprouting near oak trees. It’s a popular edible mushroom in the western United States.

Yellow Fieldcap Mushrooms (Bolbitius titubans)

Yellow fieldcap mushrooms are a type of yellow lawn fungi. The mushrooms are easily identified by their distinctive bright yellow color, convex or bell-shaped caps, and upright, slender, whitish-yellow stems. The gills of the yellow fieldcap are initially yellow but turn brown as the mushroom ages.

Yellow fieldcaps grow 1.12” to 4.7” (3 – 12 cm) tall with a cap up to 2.5” (7 cm) in diameter. The pale yellow mushrooms are found in various habitats, including lawns, meadows, and grassy areas. They are often seen growing in clusters or scattered groups.

Flowerpot Parasol Mushroom (Leucocoprinus birnbaumii)

The flowerpot parasol is a small, yellow mushroom commonly found in indoor potted plants. Also called plantpot dapperling, the yellow mushroom is identified by its distinctive bright yellow cylindrical, and sometimes flattened, cap; sulfur yellow gills, and a slender stem 1” to 3.5” (2.5 – 9 cm) long. It sometimes emits a fungus or mushroom smell.

The flowerpot parasol grows in lawns and woodland areas in tropical regions. However, most people recognize this yellow fungus species as a common mushroom that grows in plant pots. Although it’s poisonous for humans to consume, it’s harmless to houseplants.

Golden Oyster Mushroom (Pleurotus citrinopileatus)

The golden oyster mushroom is a species of bright yellow mushroom characterized by its round caps with an indentation in the center. The bright yellow mushrooms grow in dense clusters with caps 0.75” to 2.5” (2 – 6.5 cm) in diameter. They often have cylindrical white curved or bent stems with widely spaced gills.

Golden oyster mushrooms typically grow in clusters on decaying wood, such as logs or tree stumps. They fruit mainly on elm trees. As they mature, they develop a distinctive funnel shape. They are easily recognizable in shape and color, contrasting with dark brown tree bark.

Golden oyster mushrooms have a delicate, mild flavor and a slightly velvety texture.

Jack-O-Lantern Mushroom (Omphalotus illudens)

The jack-o-lantern mushroom is a bright orange-yellow mushroom that looks like yellow chanterelles. The fungi grow in clusters and are identified by their convex cap that becomes funnel-shaped and closely-spaced gills covering curved stalks. The chanterelle look-alikes grow 2” to 8” (5 – 20 cm) in diameter and length.

The jack-o-lantern mushroom is also known for its bioluminescent properties. It can emit a faint greenish glow in low light conditions, especially at night, giving it its common name. You can find the mushrooms during summer and fall at the base of trees.

Chicken-of-the-Woods Mushroom (Laetiporus sulphureus)

Chicken-of-the-woods is a yellow-orange bracket fungus that grows as clustered shelf-like structures on trees. This edible mushroom is identified by its large, golden-yellow, fan-shaped mushroomsdies growing up to 24” (61 cm) wide. The mushroom’s surface has a suede-like texture and exudes a fungal aroma.

The sulfur-yellow chicken-of-the-woods is common in woodlands in North America. You will find the yellow or orange fruiting bodies on several hardwood deciduous trees like willows, poplars, oaks, beech, and fruit trees.

The common name of this edible yellow mushroom—chicken-of-the-woods—refers to its chicken-like taste when cooked.

Golden Ear Mushroom (Tremella aurantia)

The golden ear fungus is a type of brightly-colored gelatinous mushroom that grows on decaying wood. The golden-yellow mushroom has a unique texture and appearance. It consists of dense clusters of wrinkled, folded lobes and grows 2” to 6” (5 – 15 cm) in diameter.

When mature, the golden ear mushroom turns golden brown and resembles an orange cauliflower. Although it is considered safe to eat, you must cook it before consumption.

Witch’s Butter (Tremella mesenterica)

Witch’s butter is a distinctive yellow, almost translucent jelly fungus with gelatinous masses of irregular lobes. Common names for the fungus describe its appearance—for example, yellow brain, yellow trembles, and golden jelly fungus. The fruiting bodies grow 3” (7.5 cm) in diameter and are found on decaying wood.

Witch’s butter resembles the golden ear mushroom and is related. The differences between the two are that witch’s butter has a greasy or shiny appearance and has thinner lobes. Although it’s considered edible, not everyone agrees that witch’s butter is safe to consume.

Golden Spindles (Clavulinopsis fusiformis)

Also called yellow coral, this unusual yellow mushroom looks like clusters of spindle-shaped coral. The fruiting bodies are clusters of pencil-like golden-yellow spindles with pointed tips. The thin clubs grow 2” to 5” (5 to 13 cm) tall. The large tufts of coral-like fruiting bodies are easy to spot in a landscape.

Golden spindles are a common vibrant golden-yellow color lawn mushroom. They inhabit undisturbed grassy areas, woodlands, and forest floors. They often appear after periods of rain, and their bright color makes them stand out among the surrounding green vegetation.

Yellow Patches (Amanita flavoconia)

The yellow patches mushroom is native to North America and is easily recognizable by its yellow-orange warty cap. The cap may be smooth, or covered with small flakes. This highly poisonous yellow mushroom has a pale yellow stalk, densely growing gills, and sticky yellow warts on its yellowish conical to rounded cap. The yellow-orange cap grows 1.2” to 3.5” (3 – 9 cm) in diameter.

The yellow patches look striking, with their vibrant yellow colors acting as a warning signal. The large toadstool-like fungus grows in groups or solitary near oak and hemlock trees in woodlands. It typically sprouts in late summer through fall.

Yellow American Blusher (Amanita flavorubens)

The yellow American blusher is a yellow wild mushroom with a wide disk-like cap found in North America. This mushroom is identified by its vibrantly yellow-colored cap, ranging from lemon-yellow to brass-yellow. The cap measures 1.4” to 4” (3.5 – 10 cm) wide and sits on top of a thick cylindrical stem up to 6” (15 cm) tall.

The yellow American blusher mushrooms are commonly found in hardwood forests near oak trees. The mushroom’s yellow flesh slowly stains reddish when cut. The yellow mushroom also has a shaggy appearance below the stem’s ring.

Golden Waxcap (Hygrocybe flavescens)

The golden waxcap is a beautiful bright-yellow-orange mushroom found in lawns and meadows. The rounded or flat-capped mushroom is identified by its yellow-orange waxy cap, pale yellow to orange cylindrical stem, and closely spaced pale yellow gills. The slender stem grows 1.5” to 4” (4 – 10 cm) tall, and its cap is 0.8” to 1.7” (2 – 4.5 cm) in diameter.

Yellow-orange or lemon-yellow golden waxcaps typically appear from spring through fall and grow in small groups or clusters. They prefer moist soil and are common in deciduous and coniferous forests. They often grow profusely close to beech trees.

Common Yellow Russula or Ochre Brittlegill (Russula ochroleuca)

The common yellow russula is a large mushroom with a dull yellow convex or flat cap and thick white stipe (stem). The edible yellow mushroom grows 2” to 4.5” (5 – 12 cm) wide, and its stipe is 1” to 3” (3 – 7.5 cm) long.

The ochre brittlegill is similar in appearance to the yellow swamp brittlegrill (Russula claroflava), which has a convex egg-yolk yellow cap and a thick, upright, stout white stem. The yellow swamp brittlegrill mushroom is said to be tastier than the ochre brittlegrill mushroom.

However, it is important to properly identify this mushroom before consuming it, as some russula species can be poisonous.

Yellow Pholiota Mushroom (Pholiota flammans)

The yellow pholiota is a brightly-colored golden-yellow mushroom with an easily recognizable scaly cap and stipe. The identifying feature of the yellow fungus is its triangular spiky scales covering its surface. These are arranged in concentric rings. The mushroom has a cap with a diameter of 3.14” (8 cm) and its stem is 4.7” (12 cm) tall.

Yellow pholiota mushrooms often grow in clusters on decaying and dead wood of coniferous trees. They can grow in dense clusters or singularly and are commonly available in late summer through fall. The yellow pholiota is considered edible but is not widely sought after due to its bitter taste.

Butter-Foot Bolete Mushroom (Boletus auripes)

The butter-foot bolete is a type of wild mushroom with a yellow cylindrical stem and flattened brownish-yellow cap. The identifying characteristic of this large yellow mushroom is its dry, solid cap, ranging in color from pale yellow to golden brown. As it matures, the yellow flesh turns white.

The flat golden brown cap on the mature mushrooms grows 1.6” to 5” (4 – 13 cm) in diameter and has a velvety texture. You can forage for this mushroom near oak and beech trees, and it fruits from mid-summer through late fall.

Golden Scruffy Collybia Mushroom (Cyptotrama asprata)

The golden scruffy collybia is easily identified by its bright yellow to orange cap covered in yellow or orange spikes. Also called spiny woodknight, the mushroom is identified by its cushion or convex-shaped cap, widely-spaced white gills, and shaggy cylindrical stipe. The bright yellow mushroom grows up to 2.6” (6.6 cm) tall, and its cap is 1” (2.5 cm) in diameter.

The golden scruffy collybia mushroom is found on the deadwood of deciduous and coniferous trees, and can be found in tropical areas of the world.

Wood Hedgehog Mushroom (Hydnum repandum)

The wood hedgehog is a yellow mushroom body with an irregularly shaped yellow or tan-colored cap and a wavy margin. Also called sweet tooth mushroom, the forest mushroom has a yellowish stipe, thick white flesh, and whitish spines under the convex cap. The mushroom’s unique feature is its spines instead of gills.

Wood hedgehogs grow 1” to 4” (2.5 – 10 cm) tall with a large irregular yellow to tan cap up to 6.5” (17 cm) wide. The mushrooms grow singly or in groups on the ground of coniferous and deciduous forests.

Yellow Webcap Mushroom (Cortinarius delibutus)

The yellow webcap is a medium-sized mushroom with a shiny, slimy dull yellow cap and white stem. The mushroom is identified by its bell-like cap that becomes flattened with age, cinnamon colored gills tightly packed under it, and a thick whitish stem with a swollen base. The yellowish mushrooms are found in deciduous woodlands in North America.

Yellow webcap mushrooms range in size from 2” to 4” (5 to 10 cm) tall, with a yellowish-brown cap measuring 1.6” to 8.1” (4 – 8 cm) in diameter.

Yellowfoot Chanterelle Mushroom (Craterellus tubaeformis)

The yellowfoot chanterelle is an edible yellowish-brown mushroom, identified by its small funnel-shaped cap. Other features of the small mushroom are the cap’s wavy margin, depressed center and shallow gills, and hollow stems. The mushrooms grow up to 3.1” (8 cm) tall with a cap 0.4” to 1.5” (1 – 4 cm) wide.

The yellowfoot chanterelle mushrooms appear in groups on the forest floor or on decomposing logs.

Chicken Fat Mushroom (Suillus americanus)

The chicken fat mushroom is a yellow mushroom with a bell-shaped to flattened cap and porous underside. Identifying features of the mushroom are the reddish or brownish streaks on the cap, crooked yellow stem, and tube-like opening underneath the cap. It grows solitary or in clusters in North American pine forests.

Chicken fat yellow mushrooms grow 1.2” to 3.5” (3 – 9 cm) tall, and its cap is 1.2” to 4” (3 – 10 cm) wide. It gets its name from its unique appearance-a greasy yellow texture resembling chicken fat. It’s also called the American slippery cap.

Related article:

• Types of Edible Mushrooms
• Types of Red Mushrooms – Identification Guide
• Types of Lawn Mushrooms – Identification Guide