Learning where to shoot a deer is, of course, the most important lesson a new hunter can learn. It’s important to be able to visualize your shot placement and where you’re hoping to hit vitals. We’ve built out the ultimate guide for just that so you can not only see exactly where you need to aim, but also the path your bullet or arrow will take through the deer’s vitals.
It’s exciting to be eye to eye with deer in a ground blind or when you’re on a spot-and-stalk hunt. Every move you make is seen, your scent is more noticeable and your aiming point can be different. Even the best deer rifle can’t help you overcome bad shot placement. Let’s look at different strategies for hunting on the ground.
Eye-Level Quartering-Toward Shot
The quartering-to shot is a tough shot for a bowhunter. Often, it is best to wait for the deer to give you a better angle. If you are a veteran bowhunter and confident you can make the quartering-to shot, your aiming point should be right behind the elbow of the lead leg. At 15 yards or less, wait for the deer to move the lead leg forward and take your shot. The goal is to hit the lung and liver.
The quartering-to shot is not a horrible angle for rifle hunters, but not ideal either. If the deer is not going to give you a better angle, then aim right behind the elbow of the lead leg. Other choices are between the lead leg and breastplate or high shoulder. Hunters should avoid the shoulder socket; this is not a great choice for any weapon.
Eye-Level Quartering-Away Shot
The quartering-away shot is the bowhunter’s dream. The deer is less likely to see you draw your bow, and important vitals are exposed. It’s best to aim for the opposite shoulder and worry less about the point of entry. When you hit the opposite shoulder, you have sent an arrow through the vitals and the tracking job is usually short and sweet.
The quartering-away shot for rifle hunters is extremely lethal.
Ideally, the opposite shoulder is taken out, and the deer does not travel far. It is best to aim for the opposite shoulder, knowing you will take out most vitals along the way. Let a young hunter sit in a stand that will likely have a quartering away shot. The success rate is high, and they will never forget the hunt.
The Eye-Level Broadside Shot
The broadside shot is one bowhunters should not hesitate to take. Find a tuft of hair or spot of mud just behind the lower shoulder. You are trying to aim at something small in hopes of missing small. A tuft of hair is often easier to aim at than the entire side of a deer. The goal is a clean pass-thru for a quick kill and an easier tracking job.
The broadside shot for the large caliber hunters is more challenging than one might think. A high shoulder shot here is ideal. The animal will go down right away, and a follow-up shot is seldom needed. Don’t take this shot for granted; stay focused, and you will soon load this deer in the truck.
Hunters in tree stands or elevated blinds have a distinct advantage. Their scent is harder to detect, their movement is often not noticed and they have a greater field of view. The disadvantage can be that shot placement is different from an elevated position than on the ground. Let’s look at other strategies from an elevated stand or blind.
The Elevated Quartering-Toward Shot
The quartering-to shot for bowhunters is not ideal. If the deer is not going to give you a better angle, then the point of aim is just above and behind the elbow of the lead leg. Your best chance to hit the lungs and liver is when the deer moves its front foot forward. Remember, with an elevated shot, the exit point is as important as the entry point. The quartering-to shot for rifle hunters is not the ideal shot to take, but it’s not the worst. Much like the bowhunter, you want to aim right behind and slightly above the elbow of the lead leg. Hopefully, you can wait until the lead leg is forward. You can also use the area between the lead leg and breastplate for a lethal shot.
The Elevated Quartering-Away Shot
The elevated quartering-away shot will give any bowhunter buck fever. Bowhunters know this angle will expose important vitals, and the likelihood of jumping the string is low. Make sure your shooting lanes are clear and aim for the opposite shoulder. Your entry point may seem high, but you will have a clean kill as your arrow travels through vitals.
A rifle hunter making an elevated quartering-away shot should also aim at the opposite shoulder. With an accurate shot, this deer is going down. Not everyone thinks about a quartering away shot when setting up a tree stand. Make sure you have a clean window to shoot through as the deer walks by.
The Elevated Broadside Shot
The elevated broadside shot is what every bowhunter plans for. Shooting lanes are trimmed and corn is left in the perfect spot to stop the deer broadside. Your aim should be right behind the elbow of the front leg. Not too high since broadside deer are notorious for dropping on the shot. Visualize the shot before and during your sit. Relax and don’t overthink the shot; this is what you have waited on.
The elevated broadside shot for a rifle hunter is the stuff dreams are made of. The high shoulder is a great aiming point — this spot often drops the deer quickly. If you’re filming your hunt with a scope-mounted camera, make sure you stay on the deer after the recoil. Often, this shot results in the deer going down on camera. Have a Strategy
Many hunters don’t think about shot strategy until the deer is in front of them. This lack of planning only adds to the effects of buck fever. There are other angles to consider, but they generally end with the walk of shame. We discussed how the quartering-to, quartering-away and broadside shot strategies will help you make an ethical and lethal shot.
If your doggo loves to swim, a dog ramp is a must accessory for your boat! Be it taking your dogs out for a good time, a swim, or hunting, you’d definitely want to make their experience as comfortable and safe for them, wouldn’t you?
As much as you love your pet, it will definitely hurt your pocket to spend money on commercial dog ramps. The good news is that you can DIY your dog a functional boat ramp using affordable supplies all by yourself. And, the love and care you put into the DIY process is an added bonus!
Okay, so where do you start? You start by selecting a trustworthy tutorial for you to replicate. Here are 15 brilliant DIY dog ramps for boat ideas for you to choose from!
1. DIY Floating Boat Ramp Pool Ramp or Dock Ramp for Dogs
In this Youtube tutorial, Jennifer Turner elaborates to you on how she DIYed a floating boat ramp for her doggo for under $100. The supplies this DIY requires are two anti-fatigue mats, jumbo noodles, zip ties, and a nylon rope.
For those interested, this is the first part of the tutorial, and in this second part, she shares heartwarming footage of her dog getting used to its new homemade dog ramp.
2. Dog boat ladder instructions.
Cocozoo has shared a fantastic idea of building a dog ladder for a boat. He used 1.5’’ ABS pipe and a pine board for the purpose of this DIY. He further mentions that you can use a 1’’ pipe if your doggo weighs relatively lighter.
You might have plenty of queries regarding this project, don’t you? To your rescue, the user has even shared a plan along with his build experience. All your queries will most likely be answered there!
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3. DIY Dog Ramp
Internet is truly a fantastic place! Here’s another forum on DUCKhunting Chat where the user named Honkin shares his dog ramp build details with the rest of the users.
He used a 1’’X6’’ aluminum tubing with 12 inches inside diameter for the frame and a 12’’X12’’ interlocking sport court for the decking.
The reviews on this thread are rave. If you follow this idea, please let us know in the comments how did it work out for you.
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4. How to build a DIY Pet Ramp Start to Finish – Includes complete Drawings and Instructions!
Follow this DIY tutorial by James Mark Konstruction to build a dog ramp that helps your dog to climb up and down not only a boat but any other raised surfaces such as a car, couch, or bed.
Luckily, this tutorial features all the drawings, plans, and step-by-step instructions for this DIY project. Also, if you’d like to read a written instruction, the Youtuber has shared the drive link in the comment section. Hope it helps!
5. DIY DOCK & BOAT RAMP FOR DOGS
5 pool noodles, 2 anti-fatigue floor mats, 42 plastic zip ties, 2 big carabiners, and 6 feet rope – these are the supplies you need to build a brilliant DIY dock and boat ramp for dogs.
If you have all these supplies gathered, read this written tutorial by HALIFAX DOGVENTURES to construct the ramp.
All the steps are briefly described using documented images for your ease. This DIY looks incredible! Everyone in the comment section seems to be quite impressed by this idea.
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6. Dog Ramp for a Dock or Pool
Save hundreds of dollars on a dock or a pool dog ramp by following this easy tutorial by Eric Hurst. The Youtuber explains every step of this DIY project in detail.
He has further cleared his viewer’s confusion in the comment section and has shared more advice regarding the topic. Make sure you check them out! You might find your queries answered there.
Also, there’s a suggestion in the comment pointing out how the use of PVC instead of wood would result in a better product. What do you think of that?
7. HOW TO BUILD A DOG WATER RAMP FOR A BOAT
Are you a beginner at building a dog boat ramp? If yes, this post by Marine Waterline is perfect for you! From choosing the right material to budgeting to the description of each step in detail, you’ll find all the information you need in this blog.
Marine Waterline further has a range of amazing blogs and DIYs on boating, fishing, kayaking, and a variety of water sports. Do check them out if you’re into such stuff!
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8. Hobie Tandem Island DIY Dog Ramp by Rockin Robin Sails
Rubber mats, PVC, and life jackets – if you have these supplies handy with you, here’s the perfect tutorial for you! This dog ramp is two-layered, where the bottom level stays below the water surface, making it easy for your doggo to climb.
Especially if you own a Hobie Tandem Island, you need not make any changes to this DIY. Everyone in the comment section is applauding this video. Make sure you give it a watch!
9. Pool and Boat Dog Ramp Questions and Answers
If this is your first time planning to DIY a dog boat ramp, this question and answer post by Make And Build Dog Stuff will help you immensely. From DIY ideas and plans to clear some common doubts regarding the DIY, this post is a must-read for those aiming to build a boat or dock ramp for their dogs.
What’s more, this site features plenty of other useful DIY projects for proud dog parents. We guarantee it will be of great help to you!
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10. How to Make a Dog Ramp for a Pontoon Boat: 7 Ladder Ideas
This post by PONTOONopedia consists of not one but 7 brilliant DIY dog ramps for a pontoon boat idea.
From a sleek aluminum and stainless-steel metal ladder that requires professional metalworking skills to a simple DIY utilizing a rubber drainage mat and a few bungee cords, this post has covered it all!
However, remember that this is not a step-by-step DIY tutorial and, therefore, is only appropriate for those who are seeking ideas that they can bring into action.
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11. Homemade boat ladder for you and your dog (small boat)
This ingenious DIY boat ladder idea will leave you speechless! All you need is a used two-step stool, 2 hooks and 2 sets of stainless screw, nut, a few tools, and 30 minutes of work time to complete this DIY.
The hook on top of the ladder perfectly clicks with the boat hull, eliminating any need to permanently attach the ladder or a ramp to the boat, making it perfectly portable.
What’s more, this DIY is not only applicable for your dog but equally great for you when the situation demands it!
12. The Joy of Dog Boat Ramps
By now, if you’ve realized that DIYing a dog ramp is not for you and you’d rather choose to go with a commercial option, this post by Crownline is a must-read!
It features details including specifications and cost for Paws Aboard and Skamper-Ramp. Analyze the pros and cons and figure out the best dog ramp for your animal friend. We hope this blog helps!
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13. How A Duck Dog Should Ride In a Boat
While this is not a dog ramp for boat tutorial, this video by Bodie Drake surely is a must-watch for those who are always accompanied by their dog friends during their boating journey, especially if it’s a duck dog.
Watch this video to educate yourself on how you should train your duck dog to ride the boat such that they can transform into fantastic hunters. The Youtuber shares pretty solid tips and tricks in this video. Do check it out!
14. Boat Projects: Ramps For Dogs
This blog by LakeExpo not only features some of the best commercially available dog ramps but also has information on how you can DIY a dog ramp at the end of the blog.
For instance, you can use an aluminum extension ladder as a framework for the purpose. Not sure how exactly to repurpose an aluminum extension ladder into a dog ramp? Read the blog to find out!
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15. The 5 Best Dog Ramps and Ladders for Boats
While dog ramp DIYs are affordable and many of them don’t even require you to have expert handyman skills, let’s admit, some of us are definitely having conflicting thoughts on whether to DIY a dog ramp or to avoid all the efforts by simply buying a commercially available one.
Well, if you’re having second thoughts, here’s the latest list of best dog ramps and ladders available on the market.
Summary
From the idea that uses an old unused ladder to ones that use cost-effective supplies, we’ve got all types of dog ramps tutorials listed for you in this post.
We’ve further listed a few commercial dog ramps reviews for those having second thoughts. Now, the choice is yours! And in case you DIY a dog ramp, we’d definitely love to know your experience.
There is a lot of debate surrounding whether female deer have antlers. Some people claim that only males have antlers, while others say that females can also grow them. So what’s the truth? Do female deer have antlers? Let’s take a closer look at this question and find out.
Do Female Deer Have Antlers?
Male and female caribou (reindeer) can grow antlers. In most cases of other deer species, only male deer grow antlers. However, there are some rare exceptions where females will also grow antlers. This usually occurs when the female deer has a hormone imbalance (high testosterone levels).
Why Do Deer Grow Antlers?
To Attract A Mate: One of the main reasons that deer grow antlers is to attract a mate. Male deer use their antlers for sparring with other males and establishing dominance. The bigger and more impressive a male’s antlers are, the more likely he will attract a mate.
To intimidate rivals: Another reason that deer grow antlers is to intimidate rivals and establish dominance. Males will often use their antlers to battle other males for access to mates and resources. The bigger and more impressive a male’s antlers are, the more likely he will win these battles.
For self-defense: Deers also use their antlers for self-defense. If a predator threatens a deer, the deer may use its antlers to ward off the attacker. Antlers can also be used to break through thick brush when fleeing from a predator.
For Finding Food: In some cases, deer use their antlers to find food. For example, male red deer will use their antlers to dig up roots and bulbs to eat. Additionally, reindeer use their antlers to scrape away snow to reach the grass beneath.
For Relaxation: Finally, deer use their antlers for relaxation. When a deer rubs its antlers on trees or other objects, it is actually helping to shed the velvet that covers them. This process is known as “antler rubbing” and it feels good for the deer. It is also thought to help keep the antlers healthy and free from parasites.
The antlers of a deer are actually made of bone. They start to grow in the spring and continue to grow throughout the summer. The antlers reach their full size by the fall. Once the antlers are fully grown, the deer will shed the velvet that covers them. This process is known as “antler shedding.” After the velvet is shed, the antlers are hard and smooth.
Here is a list of some of the most common deer species that grow antlers:
Mule deer
White-tailed deer
Elk
Moose
Red deer
Caribou (reindeer)
Fallow deer
Are Antlers the same as Horns?
No, antlers and horns are not the same. Antlers are made of bone and they are shed and regrown every year. Horns are made of keratin (the same material as human fingernails) and they continue to grow throughout the animal’s life. Additionally, horns are found on both male and female animals, while antlers are usually only found on males.
Do Deer Shed Their Antlers Annually?
Yes, deer shed their antlers annually. The process of shedding and regrowing antlers is known as “antler cycling.” Antler cycling usually occurs in the fall, but it can also happen in the spring. The timing of antler shedding depends on the species of deer and the location where they live.
Do All Male Deer Have Antlers?
No, not all male deer have antlers. There are some species of deer (like the Chinese water deer) where only a small percentage of males grow antlers. Additionally, there are some cases where a male deer will be born without antlers (known as a “polled” deer). Polledness is thought to be genetic and it often runs in families.
FAQs
Do Antlers Indicate Health Concerns?
No, antlers do not indicate health concerns. Antlers are simply a secondary sex characteristic (like breasts in humans). They have nothing to do with the animal’s health or fitness.
What Are the Benefits of Antler Rubbing?
The benefits of antler rubbing include:
It feels good for the deer.
It helps keep the antlers healthy and free from parasites.
It may help the deer attract mates.
Conclusion
Antlers are a fascinating body part. They serve multiple purposes for deer, including intimidation, self-defense, and finding food. Antlers are also used for relaxation, as they help the deer shed the velvet that covers them. Female Caribou (Reindeer) can grow antlers, In most cases of other deer species, only male deer grow antlers.
Are you curious are the most expensive fishing rods on the market? There’s an old saying that it’s better to buy once and cry once than multiple times. When it comes to rod quality, it comes down to the materials used, attention to detail, and the experience of the craftsman. In this article, we’ll show you a handful of expensive rods that you should check out.
Are expensive fishing rods worth it?
Like they always say, “buy once, cry once”.
Take it from someone who has sold a lot of fishing rods, the right rod is worth the money.
Pat Schlapper (Bassmaster Elite Angler)
Yes, expensive fishing rods are worth it. However, only you can decide whether it is worthwhile. Do you fish frequently enough to justify the purchase, or will this be another beauty on a shelf collecting dust?
Do you wish to feel a lot and compete in competitions, or are you more of a casual/recreational angler? Do you need the most expensive fishing rods?
As stated, the short answer is yes. It’s worth it to pay a little more for better quality. However, no amount of high-quality, superior technology can make up for time on the water and first-hand experience. Purchase of this magnitude warrants an angler who will put in both the time and effort to maximize a rod’s potential.
Expensive rods are more sensitive, detect tiny bites, and are more enjoyable to use than their less costly equivalents.
The difference between a $50 rod and a $150 rod is significantly greater than between a $100 rod and a $300 rod.
1. Oyster Bamboo Fly Rods
Handcrafted Heirloom for Future Generations
Key Features:
Full coverage hand engraving by W.S. Oyster on the reel seat and ferrules
Richly flamed cane with silk thread wraps and trim wraps on every guide
The Oyster Bamboo Fly Rod has a starting price of $4,600, making it the most expensive fishing rod on the market. It is partly because each example is handcrafted after a client makes a purchase.
It is the world’s only bamboo fly rod with a manufacturer who engraves his rods by hand. More so, each rod is outstanding in terms of performance and looks.
2. Orvis Penns Creek Full-flex Bamboo Fly Fishing Rod
Classic Fishing Rod with Remarkable Casting
Key Features:
It has a fast action blank, light tip, and superb rod strength
It has a timeless style, built with impeccable care and craftsmanship
Short and light, encouraging effortless short-medium distance casting
Whether you’re searching for your first bamboo fly rod or you’re a seasoned collector, you’ll want Orvis Penns Creek Full-flex Bamboo Fly Rod in your collection.
Perhaps Orvis’s most enjoyable full-flex bamboo trout rod in more than a century. In the traditional trout line, weight, fast action, and a soft tip are coupled with the power of a swelled butt.
3. Hamachi 2018/2019 XOS GT’n’Doggie Expedition Series Popper
Best Popping and Spinning Fishing Rods
Key Features:
Spinning popper rods – Spin reel version (fixed spool/thread line reel)
XOS Gt Doggie Series, suitable for popper, lure fishing, and general spinning both shore and boat
Ultra-high tensile full nano carbon blank
The XOS GT’n’Doggie Expedition series is a three-piece popping, plugging, stick bait rod with great casting distance and power!
If you’re after Jurassic-sized GTs, gigantic red bass, monster Dogtooth, Bluefin/Yellowfin Tuna, or other oceanic monsters, then this is the rod you need.
4. G. Loomis Asquith 690-4 All Water Fly Rod
Most Technologically Advanced Fly Rod
Key Features:
Proprietary spiral X construction, superb power transfer from tip to hand
G. Loomis Asquith is the world’s most technologically advanced fly rod, a result of its international collaboration in design, materials, and manufacturing methods.
This fishing rod is built on Shimano’s Spiral X platform, which provides excellent power transmission from tip to hand, rapid recovery, and enhanced sensitivity.
This rod is a step into the future of rod production technology, designed by world casting champion Steve Rajeff, bringing a world-class rod to the average angler.
5. Sage Fly Fishing – X Fly Rod
Multi-Application Fly Rod with Fast Action
Key Features:
Graphite Ille Technology, Fast action
Fuji ceramic stripper guides, dark green thread wraps with metallic grey trim wraps
Gloss black anodized aluminum up-locking reel seat, cork foregrip, and rear grip
The Sage X Fly rod’s all-new fast action taper, developed with Konnetic Technology, provides more blank recovery and a sharper tip stop. It results in tighter, more efficient loops across the board.
More so, this taper enables you to dig deeper into the rod and access the bottom portions, bringing power closer to the angler.
6. Sage Salt HD Fly Rod
Best Fly Rod for Fast Moving Saltwater Species
Key Features:
Squid Ink blank color, Black thread wraps with blue trim wraps
Integrated hidden hook keeper in the real seat, laser etched line weight on the slide band
Black rod bag with blue logo and model tag, blue powder-coated aluminum rod tube with Sage medallion
The Sage Salt HD Fly Rods are built with a singular purpose in mind: to allow anglers to reach further, faster, and with more delicacy.
Sometimes anglers must make rapid first shots and be able to repeat this at speed or faster. Because of the salt’s fast-moving inhabitants, this fishing rod is the perfect combination of speed and accuracy.
Full wells, AAA grade cork grip, aluminum rod tube with cloth rod bag
The G Loomis NRX T2S Fly Rods masterfully combine an original design with the industry’s most cutting-edge materials and technology. This provides anglers with greater control and responsiveness than ever before.
It uses Dynamic Recovery Technology to deliver the power, line speed, and loop stability that current fast-action rods are known for without sacrificing “feel” and elegance in the short game.
From the first perch to monstrous deep-sea leviathans, fishing is a pastime that has been endured for many millennia. Fishing spans the gamut from family outings to competition. It is a sport, tradition, and way to put food on the table all wrapped in one.
Unfortunately, many of the rods purchased from generic superstores and sporting goods outlets can be overpriced and underwhelming in their performance.
The best fishing rod for your money can make all the difference when it counts, leaving you with a happy memory and not an empty hook.
Final Thoughts
These are the most expensive fishing rods that were made with a high level of craft. Throughout the process, every move and detail is closely examined. These rods are usually costly because of this.
Whether your budget and preferences lead you to a $900 fishing rod or a $9000 bamboo rod, fly anglers typically agree on one thing, Bamboo rods are second to none in terms of performance.
Nonetheless, they do take some getting used to. There’s no need to adjust if you’re starting with a bamboo rod, so it’s better to start with the best.
It’s known as the Night of the Grizzlies. Over fifty years ago, two women were killed by two different grizzly bears on the same night. The repercussions of the incident can still be seen in the way bears are managed today. But it also gave birth to a powerful myth—it’s dangerous for women to spend time in the woods while menstruating.
Back in the early 1980s, Caroline Byrd worked on a seasonal trail crew with the U.S. Forest Service. Most summers she worked just outside of Yellowstone National Park. And for a few of those seasons, the crew was made up entirely of women.
“When people would run across us on the trail, they were always like, ‘Wait, you’re girls!’ and ‘We’d be like, yeah, uh huh, we are!'” Byrd said.
It was a really powerful experience for Byrd; one that meant a lot of hard work.
“Here we were out in the wilderness for 10 days at a time,” described Byrd. “Doing really hard manual labor that’s super satisfying…clearing trails, using a cross-cut saw, and a double bit ax, and a polaski.”
In 1983, she stayed on late, doing end-of-summer stuff like cleaning up campgrounds and marking timber to be cut down. And because it was fall, it was hunting season.
“And that’s when we ran across this hunter’s camp,” said Byrd. The hunter had left groceries inside a wall tent, and had returned to town. While he was away, a mama bear and her cub had ransacked the camp. Bear encounters were rare at the time since the number of bears in Yellowstone’s ecosystem was low. That’s why a special agent came all the way from Colorado to investigate.
“He was aghast that women were working in the back country where there were bears,” said Byrd. “And we were like ‘no, that’s not the issue!’ The issue is this hunter left his food, and bears got into it.”
That’s when the U.S. Forest Service told Byrd and the three other women on her crew that they would no longer be able to work in bear country while they were on their periods.
“Why are we getting restricted like this when this has nothing to do with the fact that there are women on a timber crew working in bear country?” Byrd said. The women were outraged. So they wrote to the Equal Employment Opportunity Office in Denver, and the policy was rescinded. But where exactly did the idea that menstruating women are at a greater risk in bear country come from? That goes back to one fateful night in 1967: the Night of the Grizzlies.
“There was two attacks in Glacier National Park where two different women were killed by two different grizzly bears on the same night,” said Kerry Gunther, the bear biologist for Yellowstone National Park (YNP).
He said the attacks caused the National Park Service to rethink how to deal with bears. The idea was to get bears feeding on native foods instead of human food hand-outs and garbage. Gunther said that meant converting garbage cans and dumpsters into bear-resistant designs, installing food storage boxes in roadside campgrounds and hanging poles for backcountry spots, as well as strictly enforcing regulations that prohibited hand-feeding beers, something once regularly seen in the park. But the Night of Grizzlies also sparked speculation.
“Having two fatalities in just one night was just so rare that people were groping for a reason, and one theory that came about was menstruation might have led to these two fatal bear attacks in Glacier,” said Gunther.
Only one of the women killed was on her period, though. And yet, the theory stuck. That’s why decades later Caroline Byrd and her female colleagues were told they couldn’t work in bear country while they were menstruating. And why in 1988 as a graduate student in environmental studies Byrd tried to debunk the myth.
“I ran a whole statistical analysis of is there anything out there that shows that bears react differently to women than to men? And it came out really strong that no, bears do not respond, or react, or in any way change their behavior based on the gender of the person they’re encountering,” Byrd said.
This lack of definitive evidence remains true today. But so does the myth. And it’s possible Yellowstone’s website may not be helping. A page that’s dedicated to menstruating women in bear country cites Byrd’s statistical analysis. It even breaks down the stats for bear-inflicted human injuries in the park.
For instance, between 1979 and 2018, 50 people were injured by bears within Yellowstone, 39 of those were men, while 11 were women. And out of those 11, none of the women were on their periods. As such, the website indicates, “the bear-inflicted human injury data from YNP does not indicate any correlation between bear attacks and menstruation.”
But the website also says women can take precautions if they’re concerned, like using tampons instead of pads.
“I do feel like the way it’s worded on the website is problematic,” said Margaret Seelie, a reporter that has written about the bears and periods myth.
Another study included on the website is from the late 70s. It tested how polar bears would react to menstrual blood in different scenarios, including how a caged polar bear reacted to a used tampon versus other odors. But both Byrd and Seelie said the research methods were flawed. Seelie also said including the study on the website perpetuates the misconception.
“It’s continuing to support and promote the myth that polar bears or bears are attracted or affected by menstruating women, which is different from a blood soaked tampon.”
Seelie is an avid hiker. Before her own reporting, she was pretty sure that being out in bear country while menstruating was dangerous.
“It’s also part of the menstruation taboo that is in our culture, and this weird fear of menstruation and of menstruating women,” she said. But Seelie explained fears like this keep women out of the woods, and that becomes an issue of quality of life.
“I don’t belong in this air conditioned office,” she said. “I belong out in the world, and I belong out in nature.”
Caroline Byrd agreed, that you shouldn’t have to stay home if you’re on your period.
“It’s perfectly rational for people to be afraid of bears,” said Byrd. “A lot of people are afraid of bears, and that’s just fine. But it’s not rational to be a woman afraid of bears because you’re a woman.”
Have a question about this story? Contact the reporter, Maggie Mullen, at [email protected].
This story was produced by the Mountain West News Bureau, a collaboration between Wyoming Public Media, Boise State Public Radio in Idaho, KUER in Salt Lake City, KUNR in Nevada and KRCC and KUNC in Colorado.
Going hunting? Need to touch up your gear? Look no further – creating your own camo pattern is easy! With the following tips, you can get that perfect, natural camo look in 15 minutes or less. Follow this easy, step-by-step guide to get the look.
What You Need
Gear to spray paint
Camo spray paint in black, brown, olive and khaki
Drop cloth to protect from overspray
Gloves (optional)
Stencil (optional)
Branches and leaves (ideally from the area you will be hunting in)
STEP 1: Prep your work area
Set up a spray area by covering your work space with a drop cloth. Make sure it is a well-ventilated area – outside is ideal. Using an all-purpose cleaner, thoroughly clean the inside and outside of your surfaces to remove dirt, oil and debris.
STEP 2: Paint your base
Depending on the surface, you may want to do a base colour on your project before layering with the camo pattern. It is always best to start with a base coat when you are working with a brightly coloured object.. One recommended product to accomplish this is Krylon Camouflage Spray Paint. For the base, layer the camo spray paint in black and brown using short, fast bursts. Keep layering colour until most or all of the original colour is gone.
Spray Tip: Make sure you read and follow the instructions on the can for proper spray distances, dry times and recoat timeframes. Products like Krylon Camouflage paint should be shaken for at least one minute after the ball has been released inside the can to ensure proper colour distribution. It is always recommended to test-spray on a scrap piece of paper or on your drop cloth before spraying your project. While painting, hold the can six to eight inches away from the surface and make sure to spray in smooth, even strokes to prevent drips or large areas of concentrated colour.
STEP 3: Create your camo
Layer leaves and branches over your project. Using the lighter colours (olive and khaki), spray in long, sweeping motions across the organic material. Remove the leaves and branches to reveal the pattern below. Repeat this process all around until you are satisfied with the pattern.
Spray Tip: Layer, Layer, LAYER! The more you layer the pattern, the more realistic it will look.
STEP 4
Let it dry. Spray paint typically dries in 15 minutes or less and can be handled in about one hour.
Quick Tips
Choose the right pattern – pick branches and leaves from the area you will be hunting in to create a custom camo look to that area.
Choose the right colours – layer colours so the hues that are most prominent in the area you will be hunting in are most featured. Always use an ultra-flat finish to ensure there is no light reflection.
Pick a stencil – if you’re looking for a more traditional camo stencil, follow the instructions above, but instead of using natural stencils with leaves and branches, download them online. Krylon’s camo stencils can be found at krylon.com
Light coats – for best results, use light, even coats instead of thick, heavy coats of paints. This will prevent drips and will also speed up dry time.
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break barrel air rifle oil
When it comes to maintaining your break barrel air rifle, using the right oil is crucial. Break barrel air rifles require regular lubrication to ensure smooth operation and extend their lifespan. Break barrel air rifle oil is specially formulated to provide superior lubrication and protect the internal components of your rifle. It helps reduce friction between moving parts, preventing wear and tear, and ensuring consistent performance shot after shot. Whether you are a seasoned shooter or a beginner, investing in high-quality break barrel air rifle oil is essential for optimal maintenance.
One of the key benefits of using break barrel air rifle oil is its ability to prevent rust and corrosion. As break barrel air rifles are often used outdoors, they are exposed to various weather conditions that can cause metal parts to deteriorate over time. Applying a thin layer of oil on the metal surfaces creates a protective barrier against moisture and other elements, significantly reducing the risk of rust formation. Regular application of break barrel air rifle oil not only keeps your rifle looking great but also ensures its longevity.
In addition to lubrication and rust prevention, break barrel air rifle oil also helps improve overall accuracy. By reducing friction between critical components such as the piston and spring, it allows for smoother cocking and firing cycles. This translates into more consistent power output and enhanced precision with each shot. Whether you use your break barrel air rifle for target shooting or hunting, utilizing the right oil will contribute to better performance and increased enjoyment of your shooting experience.
In conclusion, using the right oil for your break barrel air rifle is crucial for its maintenance and longevity. Regular lubrication with high-quality oils will ensure smooth and efficient performance, preventing damage to the mechanism. Remember to follow manufacturer guidelines and consult experts if needed. Keep your break barrel air rifle well-oiled for optimal shooting experiences.
The following ammunition cartridge ballistics information and chart can be used to approximately compare .223 Remington vs .45-70 Government ammo rounds. Please note, the following information reflects the estimated average ballistics for each caliber and does not pertain to a particular manufacturer, bullet weight, or jacketing type. As such, the following is for comparative information purposes only and should not be used to make precise predictions of the trajectory, performance, or true ballistics of any particular .223 Remington or .45-70 Government rounds for hunting, target shooting, plinking, or any other usage. The decision for which round is better for a given application should be made with complete information, and this article simply serves as a comparative guide, not the final say. For more detailed ballistics information please refer to the exact round in question or contact the manufacturer for the pertinent information. True .223 Remington and .45-70 Government ballistics information can vary widely from the displayed information, and it is important to understand that the particular characteristics of a given round can make a substantive difference in its true performance.
Caliber Type Velocity (fps) Energy (ft-lb) .223 Remington Rifle 3150 1250 .45-70 Government Rifle 1680 2270
Velocity
As illustrated in the chart, .223 Remington rounds – on average – achieve a velocity of about 3150 feet per second (fps) while .45-70 Government rounds travel at a velocity of 1680 fps. To put this into perspective, a Boeing 737 commercial airliner travels at a cruising speed of 600 mph, or 880 fps. That is to say, .223 Remington bullets travel 3.6 times the speed of a 737 airplane at cruising speed, while .45-70 Government bullets travel 1.9 times that same speed.
Various calibers
Energy
Furthermore, the muzzle energy of a .223 Remington round averages out to 1250 ft-lb, while a .45-70 Government round averages out to about 2270 ft-lb. One way to think about this is as such: a foot-pound is a unit of energy equal to the amount of energy required to raise a weight of one pound a distance of one foot. So a .223 Remington round exits the barrel with kinetic energy equal to the energy required for linear vertical displacement of 1250 pounds through a one foot distance, while a .45-70 Government round exiting the barrel has energy equal to the amount required to displace 2270 pounds over the same one foot distance. As a rule of thumb, when it comes to hunting, muzzle energy is what many hunters look at when deciding on what caliber of firearm / ammunition to select. Generally speaking, the higher the muzzle energy, the higher the stopping power. Again, the above is for comparative information purposes only, and you should consult the exact ballistics for the particular .223 Remington or .45-70 Government cartridge you’re looking at purchasing.
Please click the above links to take a look at all of the .223 Remington and .45-70 Government ammo we have in stock and ready to ship, and let us know any parting thoughts in the comment section below.
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Every deer season, Louisiana hunters take some trophy bucks. Here are the stories behind three from last season.
This time of year, my social media feeds begin filling with photos of huge, once-a-lifetime trophy bucks. Of course, few hunters ever have a chance at a record buck, but hunters should take solace knowing their odds of tagging a big buck are better in Louisiana than in most states.
Remember, Louisiana has everything it takes to build a trophy buck, including highly productive habitat, a diverse and well-developed gene pool and a culture of management-minded stewardship. By mid summer 2018, Johnathan Bordelon, the biologist over the Louisiana Deer Study, added 29 deer to the Louisiana Big Game Recognition Program.
“Bucks meeting the Louisiana Big Game Recognition minimum criteria are harvested across most of the state,” said Bordelon. “Of course, the productive habitat within the Mississippi Alluvial Valley produces more big bucks than other habitats in the state. Older age management is the driving force behind most of it. Louisiana continues to produce its fair share of 3.5 year and older bucks each season. In fact, when compared to the rest of the nation, Louisiana typically ranks in the top three each year in the percentage of 3.5-year and older.”
It is important to understand the framework of Louisiana’s Big Game Recognition Program and what constitutes a quality buck. The program documents white-tailed deer harvested within the state that meet or exceed minimum antler size. Yearly lists are published in early to mid-summer and the all-time list is updated and published every three years. However, since the recognition program is voluntary, there are likely a number of other deer in the state that have not been added to the roll.
MADISON PARISH — MICHAEL MAY
Michael May started bowhunting with a Ben Pearson Hunter recurve when he was 12 years old, which was over five decades ago. Of course, he has upgraded his bow since then, so the evening of Oct. 4 found him climbing into a stand with his Matthews compound.
The old growth timber he was hunting was located along the banks of one of Madison Parish’s larger lakes. Made up of bottomland hardwoods, his spot had little to no underbrush making it easy to see deer for a distance. Nearby, a regrown thicket provided lots of browse plants for the area deer.
With an easterly wind, May settled in to enjoy an evening hunt. Soon after the woods calmed down, several does approached his stand. Approximately 4:30 in the evening, motion in the distance caught his eye. Unbelievably, a large-antlered buck rose from his apparent bedding spot approximately 100 yards away. The deer began a long creep toward the does. For nearly an hour, the buck crept forward. Soon, the buck was at 40 yards, and still coming. Eventually, the buck paused 20 yards out, turned broadside and offered a shot. Jumping on the opportunity, May drew his bow, found the deer in his sight, and released an arrow. The deer dropped on the spot.
Weighing in at 190 pounds, the deer did not size up with his normally heavier cousins from the Parish, but the 6.5-year-old buck could still hold his own. With an inside spread of 15.5 inches, this dimension only adds a small part of the deer’s 186 5/8 inches.
“I was actually hunting a larger deer that frequented the area,” said May. “I put cameras out about a month before during the first week of September. I saw this deer on camera twice, the first time on Sept. 28, and again on Oct. 3 during daylight hours.”
CONCORDIA PARISH — LEE TIFFEE
The best part of the hunting tradition is the hunting stories that accompany it. Each hunt, whether it is successful or not, produces a story. According to Lee Tiffee, a 10-year-old deer hunter from Concordia Parish, the circumstances leading to his encounter with a buck serve to prove that when deer hunting, a hunter needs to be on the lookout at all times.
On December 26, Lee and his father, Tom, climbed their stand on a cold, rainy, afternoon hunt. A family friend accompanied the pair but peeled off about a hundred yards or so. Their stand is found behind their house and overlooks a food plot. The woods surrounding the food plot are enrolled in Wetland Reserve Program, providing thick cover and plenty of browse and bedding areas. If the rain would let up, both hunters thought it likely deer would be moving that evening. Watching the woodline for hours seems like a job reserved for older, more mature individuals, but Lee was ready to hunt this day. A few hours into the hunt, the younger Tiffee recalled seeing a deer appear out of nowhere.
“I looked out on the food plot and saw deer,” said Lee. “It was a cull buck that had a spike antler on one side and four scraggly points on the other side. Dad said I could shoot him.”
Unfortunately, nerves got the best of him and as Lee pulled his rifle up to fire, he was shaking. Just as he was able to calm down, their hunting partner shot and the cull buck busted out of the food plot.
“We figured the woods were all awake after the shot and deer busting through the woods, so we decided we would go help our friend track and drag his deer before it got dark.”
The Tiffees started to depart their stand, but were still in hunt mode. Tom looked up and saw a deer standing on the back side of the food plot. Then, Lee saw him, but couldn’t see his antlers. The rest Tom remembers in slow motion. Lee’s gun was resting on the side of the stand, and before Tom knew what was happening, Lee was shooting at the deer. A round from the Remington 700 found its target and the buck heaved, and broke for the thicket. Now the hunting party had two deer on the ground, but the rain wasn’t letting up. They finally found some blood and tracked the deer down through a gully and up the other side. Upon seeing the buck, the pair was shocked at its size, with Lee calling the grandfather to say that he had killed a monster.
Lee and his dad dragged the deer back to the vehicle, and the rest of the story has been written down in the family history book. Lee’s buck scored 168 5/8 inches, which was enough to win the youth division at a local big buck contest. The buck now hangs proudly on his wall at home and Lee offers his hunting story to any who will listen.
AVOYELLES PARISH — AMANDA SMITH
The second week of January blew into Avoyelles Parish on the backside of rain and saw a cold air mass settle into the region. This weather is normal in northern regions, but can be hard to handle for Deep South hunters. Those brave enough to venture to the woods included Amanda Smith.
“I tried to get my son to sit in the stands that evening, but he didn’t want to,” recalled Amanda. The family hunts a small tract of bottomland behind their home in Avoyelles Parish. Though small, land anywhere in Avoyelles Parish may be holding big deer. This is true for the family’s hunting land.
For seven seasons, the Smiths have watched one deer in particular. The buck always produced non-typical antlers and his crown has grown every year. This week, Scotty had taken over home duty for Amanda and she took a week to hunt. They had meat in the freezer and were buck hunting, having seen the buck on a camera about a month before. He had grown and they were figuring this would be the season they took him. Interestingly, the deer the Smith’s had been watching grow over the years was unknown to their neighbors.
“On January 13th, the wind was in my favor, and I walked to the stand for the evening hunt carrying an extra piece of gear — my portable heater,” Amanda said.
Heater in hand and an H&R .444 slung over her shoulder, Smith took to the woods, using the same trail to their only stand on the property. They don’t move around a lot on the property, which is why they believe they are so successful. The hunt was uneventful and cold, at least until a deer appeared.
“When I saw the deer coming, I reached down, turned the heater off and picked up my rifle,” said Amanda. “Putting it up, I realized that the lens had fogged up. I wiped down the scope, slowly, and made a small circle just enough to see through. I put the deer in the crosshairs.
She was calm, as she believed it was a cull buck — a bent up 6 point with lame legs — they had identified for removal. With the deer standing broadside, she squeezed the trigger and he went down. Smith didn’t realize she had killed a 200-inch monster buck.
“I climbed down, walked up to the deer, realized who it was, and I went crazy,” said Amanda.
Scotty arrived on scene as did the couple’s children, making it a family affair; they kids were very excited. They dragged the deer home where it officially scored 226 2/8 inches, making it the fifth largest non-typical in the state and the biggest ever in Avoyelles Parish.
Mugolio, a dark, aromatic syrup imbued with the flavor of pine cones, is the poster child for the kind of crazy cool, Illuminati-esque foodstuff foragers have access to, all for the price of a hike, or even less, depending on how close you are to some pine trees.
The syrup came on my radar when my friend Dan Farmer gave me a little jar of some he made to try. I remember it being good, but I forgot about it until I opened the Salt Cellar, and started making my own from spruce tips, which is excellent, but not quite the same as pine cone syrup (for the record both are great).
Mugolio is now still a bit of a chef secret, and available through elite specialty distributors, but the price is staggeringly high, exorbitant even, when you consider you can make nearly the exact same thing at home, for less than it costs to make a cake.
A chef secret that takes months to make
The cost of mugolio is not found in ingredients, but is paid in time. How much time is certainly up for debate, and you’ll notice my recipe turns around a lot quicker than burying a jar of pine cones and sugar in the yard and digging it up the next year (an actual recipe from Romania). You’ll want to wait at least a month for a good pine syrup, although aging it longer can be fun.
Mugolio: more than just pine cones
Real quick, some reality. I use the word mugolio interchangeably for syrups made from numerous tree parts, if you look around you’ll see mugolio usually refers to a syrup made from the young cones of mugo pine (Pinus mugo), harvested at a specific time of year, under the strictest of conditions, blah, blah, blah.
I’ve made all kinds of similar sugar based products from all kinds of conifer parts, and it isn’t some difficult, arcane thing you can only do in the light of a full moon— just the opposite.
Making mugolio is easy, and there’s a very forgiving time window for harvesting cones, or other things products like cedar cones, wintergreen, juniper, or spruce tips. All of the aforementioned making excellent syrups in their own right.
There’s something special about the pine cone syrup though. Pine cones hold more water than any other thing I’ve used, and they also ferment during the maceration process, vigorously.
The day after you combine the pine cones and sugar, there will look as if there was a rush and release of water—what was once a solid packed jar of pine cones and sugar is not 75 % full and liquid.
Species of unripe pine cones I’ve used to make syrup
Variation in flavor between species
One of the most fascinating things about mugolio is that every species of tree you harvest unripe cones from will impart a noticeably different flavor unique to the finished product.
Once I started to notice the different flavors, I made a point out of trying to “mugolio” as many different species of unripe coniferous cone I can, and I found some fascinating things. Here’s a quick breakdown of the differences between flavors I taste.
Pinus/Pines
Mugolio made from pinus cones have a resinous, assertive taste.
Picea/Spruces
Spruces lack the aggressive resinous flavor of pines and are the most subtle of all I’ve tasted. Instead of the resinous taste, spruce cones, just like spruce tips, have a citrusy note to them, and so will syrups made from their cones.
Thuja and likely others/Cedars
The only cedar I’ve made mugolio with is the green cones Thuja occidentalis, since they’re easy to find in landscaping. It has a taste exactly like the aroma of fresh green cedar, a bit in between spruce and pine mugolios.
Abies/Firs
Of all the syrups here, and all the different flavors, the syrups I’ve made from balsam fir are the most delicious.
Firs have a resinous punch like pine mugolios, but it’s slightly less aggressive, and most noticeably, comes with strong notes of warm spices like cloves, allspice, and cinnamon.
Unfortunately, mature balsam fir trees, at least around me, seem to only want to grow cones at the very top of the tree, which can make getting enough for a batch of syrup tricky.
Using other conifer products
Other tree products like spruce tips, pine tips and cedar cones I’ve worked with are more dry, and may not ferment during the maceration process, but they can still make a fine syrup.
The point is: you can make syrups like this out of all kinds of things, and everyone I’ve had has been good. If you have spruce trees near you, take a look at the basic spruce tip syrup too, which is nearly the same, sans the fermentation. Here’s a few things I’ve used:
Unripe eastern white cedar cones (Thuja occidentalis. This could can be an abortifacient in high doses)
Juniper berries (Juniperis virginiana)
Spruce tips (many species)
The best part is figuring out how to use it. Somethings take some experimentation, mugolio not so much.
You can literally put it on just about anything where maple syrup would be good, and you’ll be glad you did. The syrup has the essence of pine, but with none of the strong tannins you’d expect If you took a bite out of a pine cone—just pure piney goodness.
Harvest young pine cones in spring or early summer
Most importantly, you are looking for unripe pine cones in the spring and early summer, not the fall, not the winter. Opened cones are not to be used.
This is up for debate, but my favorite comes from green cones as they contain more water. Purists might say that you need to harvest pine cones when they’re the size of a pinky nail, or some other arbitrary size.
I can tell you after making this for years now, that any of the pine cones pictured in the image above will make a fine syrup, but smaller cones will make a syrup with a much stronger flavor, strong enough that some people may not like it.
Another good rule of thumb I’ve found is that whatever cone you’re picking will probably be sticky and exuding resinous, sticky liquid at a prime stage for making pine cone syrup.
Green cone=higher water content
Larger green cones hold more water in them which makes syrup making much easier, and also allows for some fermentation in the process, which adds fun flavors.
As long as the cones are meristematic and tender, and can be cut through with a knife, even if it’s into pieces with long cones like white spruce or balsam fir, they will make a good mugolio. The only cones that won’t work, are mature, tough, barky cones, like those you’d see on the ground.
Using very young pine cones
You can use young pine cones, but they’re smaller and don’t hold as much water as cones that are green, so they’re not ideal here.
If you really want to try with very young pine cones, try chopping them up medium to make it so more cones can be fit in a jar, which means more water, meaning an easier syrup. You can also add a splash of water to help it on it’s way.
Is it safe?
Yes, this is absolutely, positively safe, and there’s no need to worry about botulism. I can’t speak to the exact science of spruce tip and cedar cones syrups, (also safe) but pine cone syrup is especially safe as it ferments as it macerates, due to the higher water content of the cones if harvested at the green stage.
The extended fermentation lowers the pH, making it shelf stable. Remember that sugar is a preservative, and conifer products are all naturally acidic, which is a preservative in itself.
Consider using gloves
The most prime pine and spruce cones for making syrup will be plump, but still unripe. At this stage, most of them will be very sticky and oozing a sappy resinous substance that will quickly coat your hands and will stay for hours. Consider wearing gloves to avoid sticky hand syndrome.
Choosing the right sugar
Some recipes might call for white sugar, and while it will work and give you a flavored syrup, white sugar is more dry, and I find the clear color far less attractive than the caramel color that organic, unrefined turbinado-style sugar or even light brown sugar or a similar substitute will give.
I try to avoid using plain white sugar when I can, and I highly doubt that original mugolio recipes used such highly refined products when the first adventurous people crafted them.
Use a good sugar that you can feel good about eating, and drizzling over everything, because you’ll want to drizzle it, on, well, everything. Here’s a list of sugars that will work
Turbinado
Turbinado is slightly more dry than commercial brown sugars, but it has an excellent flavor.
Light, golden, or dark brown sugar
These are some of the most versatile and affordable, but I suggest using a high quality organic brand. The varying molasses content of the different colors of sugar is negligible in regards to the flavor of the finished syrup.
Maple sugar
Maple sugar is the most expensive you could use, and in my opinion is not the most ideal as it’s prone to crystallization from my experience. It is delicious though. If you’d like to harness the flavor of maple with your pine cones, you can just toss pine cones into maple syrup at a ratio of 1 cup of pine cones to 1 lb (2 cups) of maple syrup.
Zirbenshnaps
This stuff is unique enough that it needs a special mention. Zirbenschnaps is a liquor made with pine cones.
I’m not an expert on distillation by any means, but I’ve been working with a distillery to make similar products, and one thing we’ve been toying around with is making a rendition of it by simply using it as the sweetener in a macerated liquor.
The traditional zirbenshnaps has a red tone to its color, which makes me think they’re using a syrup made from fresh pine cones cooked immediately—not aged.
I know there’s also birch schnaps, and that’s made with reduced birch syrup, so I think using mugolio would be fine. Currently I know zirbenshnaps is only sold at ultra high-end restaurants in my area.
Whatever you make with it, it’s one of the most fascinating and delicious condiments made from wild ingredients I know of.
Making Large Batches
I occasionally make very large batches of syrup, 2 or 3 gallons at a time. Here’s a few tips on doing that if it’s something you’re interested in, especially as this is such a fun (also cheap) and interesting thing to give as gifts. The tips below are intended for those people making 1 gallon batches and up at a time.
Skimming the foam
Similar to maple syrup, when you cook large quantities of the syrup, it will begin to froth and foam at the top and will double in size quickly.
Some cones seem to create more foam than others, especially Norway Spruce. When you notice foam during the cooking process, do your best to skim it off with a spoon and discard.
After you bring the syrup to a simmer and strain, put it back in the pot and bring it to a simmer again, let it rest for a minute or two so the syrup can settle and return to it’s original volume. If you don’t do this, you run the risk of having jars that are half full after settling.
Canning for long-term storage
Pour the piping hot syrup into large jars, or, for smaller ones, pour the syrup into a pitcher with a spout, and pour directly into canning jars (4 oz mason jars make a great gift). Fill the jars nearly to the brim, leaving about ⅛ inch headspace, then, working quickly, screw on the lids tight and turn the jars upside down.
You don’t have to water bath-process this as it’s basically the same sugar concentration as maple syrup, just make sure your jars are clean. The jars will seal naturally but should be refrigerated after opening.
Here’s a few ideas for using it, and a few things yet on my list to try.
Ideas for using
Drizzled on pancakes, crepes waffles and other things primed for syrup.
Use it to flavor whipped cream
Excellent drizzled over soft cheese like mascarpone, labneh, chevre, etc.
Drizzled over fresh fruit
Using in place of honey, I love drizzling it over bowls of warm buttered wild rice with nuts, fruit, and yogurt for breakfast.
It’s good in desserts, added in small amounts like you would use honey. Dairy based desserts like ice cream, panna cotta and custards of all kinds can just be seasoned to taste with it.
Try adding small drizzles to salads, or whisking into vinaigrettes.
Mixing it with a splash of vinegar just to loosen it a bit makes a good brush on or glaze for hams, etc.
