In the firearms industry it seems there is always a “trend” that is accepted as the state of the art for a period of time and then something else will come along and replace it. Right now aluminum bedding blocks seem to be the “trend”. I recently posted our views on the ABB so I won’t get into that today but there is a related trend I think needs to be addressed. “Pillar Bedding” or bedding using aluminum pillars.

First a little history: Many years ago when wood stocks ruled the world there was very few things that would improve the accuracy of a rifle as much as “glass bedding” would. Almost no factory guns came bedded and most shot barely acceptable. Glass bedding usually enhanced the accuracy as well as increased the dependability by limiting the effects of humidity and water which played havoc with point of impact (POI). By using an epoxy based product that was reinforced with some fiberglass, thus the term glass bedding, one could form a much better mating surface between the stock and the receiver. By reducing or eliminating any stresses caused by poorly match surfaces it allowed the rifle to shoot more consistently.

In the benchrest community they found that by torquing both guard screws with a torque wrench they could actually tune the way the gun would shoot. They were constantly checking the toque, between matches and even between groups, and most found that the more they shot the rifle, the more the amount of torque would decrease. They reasoned that the stock must be compressing some due to the pressure and stress associated with shooting. As a result they drilled out the holes around the guard screws to the next larger size (usually from 5/16 to 3/8 or 1/2 inch.) When bedding the action they would allow these larger holes to fill up with bedding material. After removing the screws (of course they waxed them first) they would then drill out the screw hole to 5/16th for some clearance, but that would in effect leave a pillar of 1/16 to 3/16” wall thickness of bedding material. The bedding material was dense and rigid so it made a nice pillar that would keep the stock from compressing under the pressure of 40-60lbs of torque, plus the stress of firing the rifle.

Not long after the pillar bedding process was developed, fiberglass stocks came onto the scene. While benchrest shooters were convinced that pillar bedding had a positive effect on the accuracy of their rifles they assumed that the same process would help to improve accuracy of a fiberglass stocked rifle. The process quickly adapted itself to “glass” stocks.

When Chet Brown and Lee Six first introduced fiberglass stocks to the competitive world in the late ’60’s, they used a process that left the stock with a “foam” core. The stocks were made of fiberglass cloth outer shells with the action area and barrel channels actually molded during the initial process. They would use a low density urethane foam to expand the material from the inside and force it out against the walls of the mold to form the gun stock. As a result between the receiver area and the bottom of the stock (where the guard screws are) there was a foam core. The foam was light weight to keep the weight of the stock within reason and when cured was rigid (unlike polystyrene of foam rubber) but had very little compression strength. In short order it was found that pillars were absolutely required in order to keep from compressing the stock when tightening the guard screws.

As a general rule, the same procedure was used to make the pillars as was used with wood stocks. Simply drill the guard screw holes over size and fill them up with bedding material. The draw back to this technique was that occasionally there would be some excessive shrinkage in the bedding material due to the volume of bedding compound that flowed down around the screws. Though this resulted in a less than perfect job from a cosmetic stand point, it had no adverse effect on the performance of the bedding. When guys like my father and Wally Hart and Fred Sinclair started to take on this type of work for their fellow competitors they felt a need to produce a better looking job and the use of precut aluminum pillars was introduced. More on the technical information on aluminum pillars in Part two.

When Gale McMillan introduced his fiberglass stocks in 1973 they were made in pretty much the same manner as the brown stocks. Urethane foam was a major component and this pillar bedding was a main ingredient in all benchrest stocks he made. Gale only made benchrest stocks for the first two years he was in business. Due to the weight limitations in benchrest, light stocks were a must and the materials used were not nearly as strong as they could have been in a stock weighing much more. Pillar bedding was one way to make up for their lack of strength in the receiver area.

Stay tuned for part two on November 2nd!

By Discount Tackle Staff

There is nothing better than being out on the water with your friends and family enjoying nature, laughing, talking, and fishing. And the experience can only be improved when you have everything you need for a fun day fishing; having all the right fishing baits and tackle is essential to making the most of your time on the water.

A fishing hook is perhaps one of the most crucial fishing tackle items after your fishing rod and reel. This means a good selection of fishing hook types and hook sizes can be essential to making your fishing trip memorable and productive.

In this blog post, we break down the four major categories of fishing hooks and explain the different sub-types that make up each category, the rigging techniques and baits they are most often used with, and the species they are used to target. Finally, we provide a short explanation of hook sizing and hook strength naming conventions.

Type & Uses of Fishing Hooks

Artificial & Soft Plastic Bait Hooks

As their name indicates, artificial and soft plastic hooks are used for artificial and soft plastic bait rigs using soft plastic jerkbaits, worms, swimbaits, creature baits and more. Some of the most popular styles include worm hooks, extra wide gap (EWG) hooks, flipping hooks, drop shot hooks, and weighted and unweighted swimbait hooks.

Gamakatsu Black EWG Offset Worm Hook

In conjunction with weights and sinkers, worm hooks and EWG hooks can be used for Texas and Carolina rigging soft plastics. Drop shot hooks’ primary use is pretty self-explanatory: drop shot baits, but these hooks are often used for wacky and Neko rigging soft plastic worms and stickbaits, as well. That said, some tackle makers even make dedicated wacky and Neko hooks too. Swimbait hooks can be used with soft jerkbaits and paddle tail swimbaits.

Use of Artificial & Soft Plastic Bait Hooks

These hooks are ideal for freshwater fishing for species like largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, spotted bass, crappie/panfish, trout, pike, muskie, and walleye, as well as small inshore saltwater fishing species like redfish, sea trout, flounder, drum, and striped bass. Because of their rigging versatility, you can use them in rocks, weeds, and even timber.

Bait Hooks

Bait hooks are used for rigging live or cut bait such as live baitfish, strip baits, live nightcrawlers, fish eggs, and chunks of shrimp, crab, and other crustaceans. Popular styles of bait hooks include baitholder hooks, octopus hooks, J-hooks, circle hooks, and aberdeen hooks.

Eagle Claw 186AH Ringed Eye Baitholder Hook

Baitholder hooks have little barbs (sometimes called slices) along the shank of the hook that help keep chunks of cut bait on the hook. Octopus hooks get their name from their shape, which resembles an octopus tentacle. These hooks are used for a wide variety of fish species in both saltwater and freshwater and are often rigged with a live baitfish or egg clusters. J-hooks are somewhat similar to octopus hooks, except their shape more closely resembles the letter “J” (hence their name). These hooks are typically used for bait fishing for offshore saltwater species like tuna, sailfish, wahoo, and marlin.

Berkley Fusion19 Circle Hook

Circle hooks can be used with almost any type of bait and are unique in that they don’t require the angler to “set” the hook, but rather the hook sets itself in the corner of the fish’s mouth as it tries to swim away with your bait. Circle hooks are also best for catch and release fishing because they are the least likely to mortally wound the fish when they’re hooked.

Aberdeen hooks are very light and delicate and are almost exclusively used for fishing live minnows and other live baitfish to target crappie and other panfish like bluegill, sunfish, and bream.

Use of Bait Hooks

Bait hooks can be used in different casting, trolling, and jigging set-ups for freshwater species such as trout, salmon/steelhead, catfish, panfish, perch, and walleye, as well as virtually all saltwater fishing species.

Saltwater Hooks

Saltwater hooks, as their name implies, are intended to be used for saltwater fishing. Hooks that fall into this category are typically constructed with hard metal wire that is then molded into sharp and long points. Although you will find saltwater fishing hooks in many shapes and sizes, they are usually made of one of two materials: high-carbon steel or stainless steel. Saltwater hooks must also be made with corrosion-resistant finishes like tin to survive in corrosive saltwater environments.

Gamakatsu Heavy Duty Live Bait Hook

For our purposes, we define saltwater hooks as any hook suitable for use in saltwater, meaning there is some overlap with other categories. For example, a hook like Gamakatsu’s Heavy Duty Live Bait Hook is classified as both a baithook and a saltwater hook because it used for bait fishing, but also robust enough to survive saltwater environments and big game species. Similarly, heavy-duty treble hooks like Mustad’s 3565 DuraSteel O’Shaughnessy Treble Hook 2X Strong are both treble hooks and saltwater hooks because they have a treble hook design that is suitable for saltwater usage.

VMC 7237 InLine Single Hook 1X Coastal Black

That said, there are few styles of hooks that are, broadly speaking, only used for saltwater fishing. These include jigging assist hooks used on metal saltwater jigs and inline single hooks used on saltwater trolling and casting hard lures (aka plugs).

Use of Saltwater Hooks

Saltwater hooks are suitable for use for casting, jigging, and trolling with both artificial lures and real bait for all saltwater species. Thanks to their strength, certain types are also a good choice when targeting big game freshwater species like catfish, pike, muskie, and sturgeon.

Treble Hooks

Treble hooks are hooks with three points on them. They are most often used on hard baits and lures, but can also be found on some soft body swimbaits, live bait rigs, and even fished alone with dough baits for trout, panfish, and catfish.

Mustad D3551 Dough Bait Treble Hook

In addition to varying sizes and strengths, treble hooks also come in a wide variety of hook shank sizes and bends. For example, there are short shank trebles that have a shorter shank section between the eye of the hook and where the shank diverges into its three points. This shorter shank style is best fished on hard baits that will be retrieved near grass and vegetation because the hook points are closer to the body of the bait and do not snag as easily. When properly hooked up with, the shorter shank trebles also do a better job of keeping fish pinned and make it harder for them to use the hook shank for leverage to throw the hook.

Owner ST-36 Round Bend Treble Hook Black Chrome

Another popular treble hook style are round bend treble hooks. Just like their name implies, round bend treble hooks have a hook points parallel to the hook shank, which creates a perfectly round bend in the hook. The purpose of this design is to make it easier to hook fish that swipe at the lure instead of fully committing to striking it. There are a few other subtypes of treble hook designs, such EWG treble hooks and feather-dressed treble hooks, but for simplicity’s sake we will end our discussion here.

Use of Treble Hooks

Treble hooks are used in both freshwater and saltwater fishing on casting and trolling lures, crankbaits, metal jigs/spoons, swimbaits, and a few other specialty, niche bait rigs. They generally are not good for use around heavy vegetation and weeds because they are highly prone to snagging.

Fishing Hook Sizes & Strengths

In addition to a wide range of shapes and designs, fishing hooks also come in many different sizes and wire gauge strengths. Different sizes and strengths are used for different species and bait presentations.

Fishing Hook Sizes

Fishing hook manufacturers make hooks in an incredibly wide range of sizes; everything from the tiniest treble hooks for trout and panfish all they way to massive circle hooks used for shark fishing.

The size of a fishing hook is based on both the width between the point and the shank of the hook as well as the overall length (or height) of the hook shank.

Fishing hook size naming conventions can be somewhat confusing. Generally speaking, mass produced fishing hook sizes range from 18 all the way up to 12/0 (pronounced “12-aught”), with size 18 being the smallest and 12/0 being the largest. For hook sizes between 1 and 18, the higher the number, the smaller the hook. In other words, a size 1 hook is much larger than a size 18 hook. For sizes 1/0 and above (there is no such thing as a size 0 hook), higher numbers equate to larger hooks, meaning a 12/0 is much bigger than a 1/0.

Fishing Hook Strengths

While its pretty obvious that fishing hooks are made in lots of different sizes to match different size fish, did you also know that hooks are also made from different wire gauges or thickness? Usually, they run from extremely thin wire to thicker gauge wire. For instance, fine wire, 1X strong heavy wire, 2X strong heavy wire, 3X strong heavy wire, and 4X strong heavy wire, and higher.

Stronger hooks are used for big game species like catfish, tuna, marlin, and sturgeon, while lighter fine wire hooks are used on more delicate species like crappie, trout, and perch.

Final Thoughts

Fishing hooks come in a myriad of styles, sizes, and strengths and each has characteristics, benefits, and intended uses. A fishing hook is an important part of fishing and being familiar with the various parts, sizes, and types of fishing hooks will help you in choosing the perfect hooks for your next fishing trip.

So, the next time that you are on the water pondering what fishing hook to use do not fret. Follow our breakdown, and you will easily determine at the type of fishing hook that will help you put more fish in the net!

Howdy, fellow hunters and outdoor enthusiasts! Are you itching to go coyote hunting in Pennsylvania but don’t know where to start? Look no further because this ultimate guide has got you covered! As a proud resident of Pennsylvania and an avid hunter myself, I’ve spent countless hours tracking and stalking coyotes in this beautiful state. And let me tell you, there’s nothing quite like the thrill of the hunt in the Keystone State! So grab your gear, pack your sense of humor, and let’s dive into the wild world of coyote hunting in Pennsylvania together.

From the best hunting spots plus the essential equipment you’ll need to the coyote hunting laws in Pennsylvania, this guide has everything you need to know to become a successful coyote hunter in the great state of Pennsylvania. So, let’s get started and show those cunning coyotes who’s boss!

Why Hunt Coyotes in Pennsylvania?

Hey there, friend! Are you ready to learn why hunting coyotes in Pennsylvania is an adventure you don’t want to miss? Let’s dive into the exciting world of coyote hunting in Pennsylvania, where you’ll get to experience the thrill of the chase, improve your hunting skills, and contribute to the conservation efforts of the state.

The Impact of Coyotes on Pennsylvania’s Ecosystem

Coyotes are an invasive species that have been expanding their range throughout Pennsylvania since the 1930s. They are predators that prey on a variety of animals, including deer, rabbits, and rodents, and can have a significant impact on the ecosystem. Overpopulation of coyotes can lead to a decrease in the population of other animals, which can have a ripple effect on the entire ecosystem. This is why coyote hunting in Pennsylvania is not only a fun and challenging activity but also an essential conservation measure.

The Benefits of Hunting Coyotes in PA for Conservation

Hunting coyotes in Pennsylvania helps manage their population, which, in turn, has a positive impact on the ecosystem. Hunting can also help prevent coyotes from becoming habituated to human activities, which can be dangerous for both humans and pets. Additionally, coyote hunting in Pennsylvania helps generate revenue for the state’s conservation efforts, which can be used to support programs that protect wildlife and their habitats.

All in all, Coyote hunting in Pennsylvania is an exciting and rewarding activity that not only allows you to experience the thrill of the chase but also contributes to the conservation of the state’s ecosystem. With its beautiful forests, rolling hills, and vast open spaces, Pennsylvania offers the perfect setting for a memorable coyote hunting trip. So what are you waiting for? Grab your hunting gear and head to Pennsylvania for a wild and unforgettable adventure!

Coyote Hunting Laws and Regulations in Pennsylvania

Coyote hunting in Pennsylvania is a topic that definitely gets a lot of attention among hunters and outdoor enthusiasts. Whether you are a seasoned hunter or just starting out, coyote hunting can be a thrilling and challenging experience that tests your skills and knowledge. However, before you grab your gear and head out to the woods, it’s important to know the laws and regulations related to coyote hunting in Pennsylvania.

Here’s a quick rundown of the basics:

What is the hunting season for coyotes in Pennsylvania?

The hunting season for coyotes in Pennsylvania is open year-round. However, there are some specific regulations that apply to different hunting methods, such as trapping, night hunting, and using electronic calls.

What are the regulations for coyote hunting in Pennsylvania?

To hunt coyotes in Pennsylvania, you need a valid hunting license and a furtaker license. You are allowed to hunt coyotes during daylight hours and with any legal firearm or archery equipment. Hunting coyotes at night is strictly prohibited in the state of Pennsylvania. However, there are some restrictions on using bait or live decoys to lure coyotes.

In addition, you must wear at least 250 square inches of fluorescent orange material on your head, chest, and back combined, visible from all directions, during the firearms deer season and from November 15 through December 15. This requirement does not apply to archery deer season or coyote hunting.

What are the rules for night hunting and electronic calls?

If you are planning to hunt coyotes at night in Pennsylvania, you must obtain a special permit from the Pennsylvania Game Commission. You also need to have a light source that emits white or green light and is handheld or worn on your head.

The use of electronic calls is allowed for coyote hunting in Pennsylvania, but they must not mimic sounds made by game animals during their breeding season.

What are the penalties for violating coyote hunting regulations in Pennsylvania?

Violating coyote hunting regulations in Pennsylvania can result in fines, suspension of hunting privileges, and even imprisonment in some cases. It’s important to follow the rules and regulations to ensure the safety of yourself and others, as well as to protect the environment and wildlife.

Overall, coyote hunting in Pennsylvania can be a great experience if you follow the rules and regulations set by the Pennsylvania Game Commission. Remember to always be safe, responsible, and respectful of nature while enjoying this exciting outdoor activity. Happy hunting!

Best Coyote Hunting Spots in Pennsylvania

If you’re looking for some thrilling coyote hunting in Pennsylvania, you’ve come to the right place! Pennsylvania is a state with abundant wildlife and excellent hunting opportunities. But when it comes to coyote hunting, not all hunting spots are created equal. So, let’s explore some of the best coyote hunting spots in Pennsylvania.

1. Allegheny National Forest

If you’re a fan of public land hunting, then the Allegheny National Forest is the place for you. The forest spans across 513,175 acres, providing ample space for hunters to explore and pursue coyotes. The area is known for its dense forests, rolling hills, and numerous streams and rivers, making it an ideal spot for coyotes.

2. State Game Lands

Pennsylvania’s State Game Lands are a network of public hunting grounds spread throughout the state. With more than 1.5 million acres of land, it’s not surprising that some of the best coyote hunting spots are located here. One of the advantages of hunting on state game lands is the abundance of prey species that attract coyotes, including deer and rabbits.

3. Private Lands

While public land hunting has its advantages, hunting on private land can be a game-changer. Pennsylvania has plenty of private land available for hunting, but you’ll need to obtain permission from the landowner first. One perk of hunting on private land is that there is less hunting pressure, which means you’ll have a better chance of bagging a coyote.

4. Local Farms

Local farms can also be excellent coyote hunting spots in Pennsylvania. Many farmers welcome hunters onto their land to help control coyote populations, which can prey on livestock. These farms often have large fields and pastures that provide ample opportunities for spotting coyotes.

5. Wildlife Management Areas

Pennsylvania’s Wildlife Management Areas are public lands specifically managed to promote wildlife habitat and hunting opportunities. These areas often have well-maintained trails, food plots, and water sources that attract coyotes. Plus, hunting in these areas helps support the state’s wildlife management efforts.

When it comes to coyote hunting in Pennsylvania, there are plenty of options to choose from. Whether you prefer public or private land hunting, there are abundant coyote hunting spots across the state. Just make sure to obtain the necessary permits and licenses before heading out, and always practice safe and ethical hunting practices.

Preparing for the Coyote Hunt in Pennsylvania

Are you ready for an adventure in the Keystone State? Coyote hunting in Pennsylvania is not for the faint of heart. But with the right gear and knowledge, you’ll be ready to take on these elusive predators.

Choosing the Right Gear for Coyote Hunting in Pennsylvania

First things first, you need the right gear. You’ll need a reliable firearm, preferably a rifle or a shotgun, with a scope or iron sights. Make sure you check Pennsylvania’s hunting laws for the specific caliber and ammunition you can use.

You’ll also need warm and comfortable clothing, especially if you’re hunting in the winter. Dress in layers, and don’t forget about a good pair of boots. You don’t want your feet getting cold and damp while you’re waiting for your prey.

Finally, you’ll need calls and decoys to attract the coyotes. Electronic calls work great, and some hunters swear by mouth calls. Decoys can also help bring coyotes into range, but make sure you use them wisely.

Understanding Coyote Behavior and Habitat in PA

Knowing the behavior and habitat of coyotes in Pennsylvania is crucial for a successful hunt. Coyotes are adaptable creatures and can be found in a variety of environments, from urban areas to rural farmland.

One of the best places to hunt coyotes in Pennsylvania is near farmland, especially during the winter months when they are looking for food. Coyotes are also more active during the night, so plan your hunt accordingly.

Scouting for Coyotes in Pennsylvania

Before heading out for your hunt, it’s a good idea to scout the area. Look for tracks, droppings, and other signs of coyote activity. You can also talk to local farmers and hunters to get an idea of where the coyotes are most active.

Once you’ve found a good location, set up your calls and decoys and wait patiently. Coyotes are smart animals and can be difficult to lure in, but with a little patience and persistence, you’ll be sure to have a successful hunt.

Overall, coyote hunting in Pennsylvania can be a thrilling and rewarding experience if you’re well-prepared and have the right knowledge. So grab your gear, head out to the countryside, and get ready for an adventure like no other. Good luck and happy hunting!

After the Hunt in Pennsylvania

Congratulations, you’ve bagged yourself a coyote! Now it’s time to move onto the next steps. Field dressing and processing a coyote in Pennsylvania can be a bit of a challenge, especially if you’re new to hunting. My advice? Take it slow, and don’t be afraid to ask for help from a more experienced hunter.

Once you’ve got your coyote processed, it’s time to think about transportation. Pennsylvania has strict regulations when it comes to transporting coyotes, so make sure you’re up to date on the latest rules and regulations.

But what about the meat and fur? Don’t let anything go to waste! Coyote meat can be quite tasty when prepared correctly, and the fur can be used for a variety of purposes, from clothing to home decor. Get creative, and don’t be afraid to experiment with new recipes and craft ideas.

Overall, coyote hunting in Pennsylvania can be a challenging and rewarding experience. With the right gear, planning, and mindset, you’ll be well on your way to a successful hunt. And remember, always hunt responsibly and ethically, and follow all state and federal regulations. Good luck, and happy hunting!

Final Thoughts

As we wrap up our discussion on coyote hunting in Pennsylvania, I must say, I have thoroughly enjoyed this topic. Hunting coyotes can be an exciting and challenging experience that requires skill, patience, and a bit of luck. Plus, it’s a great way to connect with nature and appreciate the beauty of the outdoors.

Now, let’s talk about coyote hunting in Pennsylvania specifically. The Keystone State is home to a healthy population of coyotes, making it an excellent destination for hunters looking to bag a few. However, there are some things to keep in mind when hunting coyotes in this state.

First and foremost, make sure you have the proper permits and licenses to hunt coyotes in Pennsylvania. The state’s Game Commission has specific regulations and requirements for hunting coyotes, so be sure to check them out before heading out into the field.

Additionally, be mindful of your surroundings and the local wildlife. Coyotes are smart and adaptable creatures, but they are also known to be territorial and protective of their young. Be respectful of their habitat and avoid disturbing their dens or breeding grounds.

Finally, when it comes to coyote hunting in Pennsylvania, it’s always best to go with a buddy or a group of friends. Not only is it more fun to share the experience, but it’s also safer to have someone watching your back in case of any unexpected situations.

In conclusion, if you’re an avid hunter or just looking for a fun outdoor adventure, coyote hunting in Pennsylvania is definitely worth considering. Just remember to do your research, be respectful of nature, and above all, have fun! Happy hunting!

Yes, it’s time to answer the age-old question of who would win in a fight: the ferocious grizzly bear of sub-Arctic North America, or the hulking polar bear from the frozen tundra.

Both are formidable opponents, as they both sit on top of their respective food chain, but what if these two were to meet each other in less-than friendly circumstances?

How would their differences in stature and hunting strategies measure up? In order to answer this question, we will have to take a closer look at each animal’s individual stats.

The Weigh-In

Height

5-8’ 7-10’

Weight

400-1000 lbs 775-1,300 lbs

Paw Width

7” 12”

Claw Size

2-4” 2-4”

Bite Force

975 PSI 1200 PSI

Speed

35mph 25mph

As you can see from the table above, the polar bear has a HUGE advantage in size. Quite simply, they’re massive.

With their extreme size and weight, they are perfectly evolved to endure the harsh winters of their arctic habitats.

Polar bears do not really hibernate, because the Fall and Winter months provide the best environment for accessing food.

This is because when the ice forms, the bears have access to their main food source: the seal.

They are able to venture further out from land and hunt in the seal-rich waters.

Furthermore, their thicker fur and fat supplies make them a harder target to defeat, as teeth and claws have a much farther distance to go in order to do any damage.

While still being huge, the Grizzly is a much leaner predator.

Their size is more suited for warmer climates, thicker vegetation and faster prey.

The Grizzly does not have the same need for insulation that the polar bear does because unlike polar bears, they hibernate during the cold months.

Oppositely to their arctic cousins, Winter is a lean season for the Grizzly, as migratory animals move south and food becomes scarce.

Paws and Claws

In order to support their great size, their paws need to be huge as well.

Also, their broad size gives them much needed traction as they traverse snow drifts.

Their paws also make them incredibly adept swimmers, as they work like flippers and help propel them to hunt aquatic prey.

Claws, on the other hand (pun intended), the Grizzly might see a slight advantage.

While being roughly the same size, the Grizzly’s claw is built for digging and doing damage to any opponent it might face in the wild.

The polar bear’s claw is more built for giving traction in the snow, and for taking hold of seals, which make up most of its diet.

Much like the polar bear, seals have large fat reserves to insulate them from arctic climates. Because of this, polar bears’ claws must be good at grabbing hold of them so they can then eat them.

A sharper, more slender claw might eviscerate their prey’s flesh, but cause them to lose it in the ocean in the process.

As far as paw size, the polar bear has the advantage.

Mouth and Bite Force

Not only is their mouth much larger, but their teeth are more designed for delivering the fatal blow than the Grizzly’s.

As mentioned before, grizzly bear’s claws are the most powerful weapons in its arsenal.

As the Grizzly’s diet is more varied, it has more rounded molars than the polar bear.

This helps the Grizzly grind down vegetal food in the absence of live prey.

Now, let’s talk about bite pressure.

Measuring at 1200 PSI, there are only a few animals on earth that have a greater bite force than that of the polar bear (the top of the list being the saltwater crocodile).

Not to say the grizzly bear’s bite is weak, as it certainly is not. At 975 PSI, it is only a few spots down from the polar bear in ranking.

But what do these numbers mean?

In more practical terms, these animals can easily bite through a cast iron pan, a cinder block or even a bowling ball. Imagine what it would do to you!

The polar bear has the advantage when it comes to mouth and bite force

Head Games

On the topic of robustness of skulls, this one goes to the Grizzly.

Their heads are built like a battering ram with incredibly thick bone all around.

In fact, their skulls have been known to deflect rifle bullets.

They are built for fighting and raw aggression.

Polar bears have much more slender skulls in comparison.

This makes them more streamline in the water, making them stronger swimmers, but more vulnerable to trauma in the head region.

Even with the polar bear’s stronger bite force, if a fight were to be decided by a head chomp, it might go in the favor of the Grizzly.

Speed

If the fight comes down to a chase, or they decide to settle the squabble peacefully with a good old fashioned woodland foot race, the grizzly would once again have the advantage.

A common misconception with grizzly bears is that they’re big and slow. In fact, they are big and fast, clocking in at 35mph!

That means a bear could run the entire 360 foot length of a football field in 7 seconds!

It’s huge paws and streamline body make a swimmer of Phelpsian proportions.

If the race is a swim-off, than the polar bear is going to edge out the competition.

Agression

Both are incredibly aggressive creatures and would have no problem with defending themselves if provoked.

There have been more accounts of humans being attacked by grizzly bears, but that is mostly due to the population density in which they live.

However, polar bears alone claim a very impressive title: they are the only species on earth that considers humans food.

While other animals are known to attack, kill and eat humans, this is usually due to provocation.

Polar bears see humans as a viable food source and will stalk and hunt people as a means to survive in the barren arctic.

I’m calling this one a draw.

Intelligence

The polar bear is widely regarded as one of the planet’s most intelligent hunters.

Their ability to stalk prey over long distances and outsmart and outmaneuver makes them absolute master tacticians.

Seeing as how they often use their wits to prey on humans speaks volumes to their prowess.

If our Ursidae melee involves some level of hide and seek, the decision would go to the polar bear.

Strengths & Weaknesses

Both animals are evolutionary masterpieces and are perfectly equipped to reign supreme in their respective habitats.

This means that their strengths may prove to be weaknesses if transplanted into a different environment. And vice versa.

For example, the polar bear has incredibly dense fur and heavy fat reserves. It is perfectly suited for life in the arctic.

However, if you were to bring a polar bear into a sub arctic summer, it would tire easily and need to cool down before long.

They are bears from very different environments, which makes it difficult to parse out strengths and weaknesses.

Final Verdict

If we were to somehow create a neutral arena, one that plays to neither the polar or the grizzly bear’s advantages, we would have a very even fight, despite the size difference.

If it came to a close-quarters brawl, the polar bear might have an advantage.

While not possessing the sharp claws of the grizzly, its huge paws and strength could deal a fatal blow to the smaller opponent.

It’s thick coat and skin would help shield against any minor lashes from the grizzly.

If the polar bear gets close enough to use its powerful jaws, it might be a done deal.

However, if the grizzly bear can get a bit of distance, its speed could prove to be a huge advantage.

Quicker and more mobile than the hulking polar bear, it could dip in for quick strikes and tire it out.

If we’re not talking about an all-out brawl, this could all change.

As mentioned before, polar bears are master hunters and swimmers.

If this fight were to happen in an uncontrolled environment with each animal’s location being unknown, the polar bear would edge out the grizzly bear.

In real life?

There have been no recorded instances of a grizzly fighting a polar bear, but over the last decade there have been sightings of either encroaching on the other’s territory.

As climate change continues to thaw the polar ice drifts, grizzlies have been seen venturing further into polar bear territory.

While this may pique the interests of those wanting a battle royale between these two juggernauts, it almost certainly spells disaster for the future of their kind.

As human’s impact on the earth’s environment continues to worsen, these habitats are being destroyed and food sources are being depleted.

So, if you ever witness a grizzly fighting a polar bear, it’s not a great sign.

Final Thoughts

On the topic of who would win this battle, I have to defer to environmental variables.

Both are perfectly in tune with their habitat and will surely be victorious if this fight happens on home turf.

Nature always proves to be more complex, and less generous with easy answers than we hope, but can keep thinking about it all the same.

Most people’s first time shooting is with a .22 LR firearm.

But what .22 LR ammo do you choose?

There are dozens, even hundreds, of brands and types, so what is the best one?

Is there a best one? As with any other type of ammo, what .22 LR you buy depends on what you want to do with it.

But don’t worry; I’ll walk through my favorite rounds for cheap plinking, hunting, accuracy, and even going subsonic.

Here are the current best options, with the most budget options coming in around 6 cents per round.

Lucky Gunner also has more obscure varieties, and Creedmoor Sports has more competition loads.

Best .22LR Ammo

For Plinking

1. Remington Thunderbolt

Usually, the cheapest rounds…but some guns don’t like them.

Mine have no complaints, but I read enough about them that I would test them out first before taking the plunge and stacking deep.

2. Federal Auto Match

With this one, you get 325 rounds of affordable .22 LR that’s mostly available nowadays. No complaints in my bolts or semi-autos.

3. Federal Champion

I’ve shot the most with Federal Champion (and most of my .22 LR ammo reserve is this brand).

For hunting, the name of the game is to get a quick/clean kill without making too much of the meat inedible.

Usually, this means going with a high-velocity, hollow-point (HP) bullet.

What do you think of Federal Champion? Be sure to rate it below!

For Hunting

4. CCI Stinger

CCI is the gold standard in small game hunting — fast, accurate, and deadly with its copper-plated 32-grain hollow point bullet.

Can’t go wrong with this one, and has enough oomph to cycle semi-autos.

5. CCI Standard Velocity

Again, CCI makes this list — this time in the form of the Standard Velocity.

To be honest, this is one of my favorite all-around loads in terms of price and reliability.

For Suppressed Shooting

6. CCI Subsonic HP

Are you seeing a pattern here? CCI hits our list again with the Subsonic HP variant. This one happens to be my favorite overall subsonic round.

You get the accuracy and reliability of CCI, and it’s not so slow (1,050 feet-per-second) that it can’t run on semi-autos.

7. Aguila Super Colibri

Powder? Who needs powder?

These rounds run off only the primer meaning they are super quiet and super slow (420 feet-per-second).

Downside is…they won’t run in your semi, though.

For Long Range Precision

8. Lapua Center-X

This is generally accepted as the gold standard for long-range .22 LR shooting. If you’re ready to spend some money and get the best, Lapua Center-X is the first you should try.

It won’t be the absolute best for every rifle — but odds are it’s at least in the top three for your rifle.

Center-X is exclusively what I shoot at matches of 100 yards or longer.

9. SK Ammo — Standard Plus, Rifle Match, Long Range Match

Frankly, I have no idea what the difference is between these three. I’ve tested all three, and my results depend on the rifle. But all of my rifles love at least one of them.

SK Rifle Match and Long Range Match are both 1 MOA for me at 100 yards; Standard Plus opens up a little but has a better standard deviation normally.

Pick one or all three and give them a try!

10. Norma TAC-22

I like this one since it works well in my semi-auto guns, like the 10/22 and .22 LR AR clones.

If you’ve got a suppressor or want to be a little quieter…going subsonic is the way to go.

It sounds like a cap gun instead of having the *CLAP* of a faster-than-sound bullet.

Match Your Ammo To Your Use

From plinking to hunting to long-range, we have all of the recommendations.

Broadly speaking .22 LR fits into a few use cases:

• Plinking
• Hunting
• Suppressed
• Long-Range Precision

Plinking is just what it sounds like. It’s learning how to shoot or teaching others. It’s keeping your skills sharp. Or maybe you just want to turn some money into noise and have a good time!

In any of those cases, you want reliable ammo strong enough to cycle semi-auto guns and hopefully cheap.

Hunting might be super- or sub-sonic for use with suppressors. Either way, you want reliable ammo and should be willing to pay a few more pennies for it.

Suppressed is its own category since the ammo is weaker than normal. Sometimes a little weaker, sometimes a lot. You can hunt with it if the critter is small enough and you’re close enough, or you can just have fun with it.

Long-Range Precision is gaining a lot of popularity with NRL22 and NRL22X! We’re going to assume that you want to shoot at least 100 yards with your .22 LR, but 400+ isn’t out of the question, either. You’ll want very consistent ammo that is reliable and sub-sonic. This…won’t come cheap (for .22 LR).

“But what about self-defense!” you might ask. Unfortunately, .22 LR cartridges can’t be relied upon to effectively stop a threat or go off every single time.

Modern .22 LR is decent, but we don’t consider it reliable enough for self-defense — not when other options like 9mm and .45 ACP are out there.

Final Thoughts

So there you have it…our roundup of the best .22 LR for plinking, hunting, accuracy, and even sub-sonic.

As with anything ammo-related, try a box out before you commit to a case or more, as some .22 LR guns are notoriously picky when it comes to ammo.

Did we miss any that you really think belongs here? Let us know! If you’re looking for a new .22 LR, take a look at the 7 Best .22 LR Rifles! And for more calibers, check out Best Places to Buy Ammo Online.

Phylum: Basidiomycota – Class: Agaricomycetes – Order: Agaricales – Family: Marasmiaceae

Distribution – Taxonomic History – Etymology – Identification – Toxicity – Reference Sources

Jack o’ Lantern is a striking, bright orange mushroom that usually grows in dense tufts from the decaying underground roots of deciduous trees or from dead stumps and, less commonly fallen branches. It’s dual claim to fame is that it is a poisonous mushroom whose gills are (weakly!) bioluminescent. (A few gilled mushrooms and several other kinds of fungi are known to emit light. In a very dark environment, when your eyes have had time to adjust, the gills of Jack o’ Lantern can sometimes be seen glowing a ghostly green.)

Pictures on this page were taken in Pennsylvania by Dan Moore, with whose permission they are shown.

Distribution

In Britain this is a very rare species, and according to the British Mycological Society’s Checklist of Fungi of the British Isles only about 20 official records have been authenticated, all in southeast England. (The conservation status of Omphalotus illudens is Near Threatened on the 2006 Red Data List authored by Shelly Evans et al.) This species is also found in many parts of central and southern mainland Europe and in of North America, where according to mushroom expert Michael Kuo this species is common east of the Rocky Mountains.

Taxonomic history

This saprobic mushroom was described in 1822 by American botanist-mycologist Lewis David von Schweinitz (1780 – 1834), who gave it the binomial scientific name Agaricus illudens. (Most gilled fungi were initially placed in a giant Agaricus genus, now redistributed to many other genera.) The currently accepted scientific name Omphalotus illudens dates from a 1979 publication in Sydowia 8: 106 by mycologists Andreas Bresinsky (born 1935) and Helmut Besl, both of Regensburg University, Germany.

In Britain this mushroom has been incorrectly referred to as Omphalotus olearius, but that name belongs to a closely-related species that has not been confirmed as occurring in Britain. Valid synonyms of Omphalotus illudens include Agaricus illudens Schwein., and Clitocybe illudens (Schwein.) Sacc.

Etymology

The genus name Omphalotus means umbilicate (in the form of a navel), and refers to the central depression in mature caps, as seen in the picture above, while the specific epithet illudens means ‘deceiving’. Whether the latter is a reference to the fact that many people have been deceived into eating these toxic toadstools in the mistaken belief that they are Chanterelles remains unclear. (Omphalotus illudens is more easily confused with the deceptively similar Omphalotus olearius, which occurs nearly always with olive trees in southern Europe.)

Toxicity

Jack o’ Lantern and other members of the genus Omphalotus are seriously poisonous toadstools that contain the toxin muscarine; when eaten they cause gastric upsets that can last for several days. Poisoning by this species is not usually fatal, but great care must be taken when gathering edible orange-coloured mushrooms such as Chanterelles to avoid accidentally including Jack o’ Lantern. (Even more dangerous is the superficially similar Cortinarius rubellus, which has been responsible for many deaths.)

Identification guide

Cap

7 to 20cm across; initially convex with an inrolled margin, flattening and eventually developing an upturned wavy margin; smooth; bright orange to yellowish orange.

Gills

Decurrent; non-forking; colour as cap.

Stem

5 to 20cm long and 1 to 2cm diameter, smooth, tapering towards the base; yellowish orange, darkening towards the base.

Spores

Ellipsoidal to globose, smooth, 3.5-5 x 3.5-5µm.

Spore print

Creamy white.

Odour/taste

Odour quite strong but pleasant; taste not distinctive.

Habitat & Ecological role

Saprobic, on buried decaying hardwood roots, especially oaks and Sweet Chestnut, often in lawns and park grassland near to trees; also occasionally on hardwood stumps.

Season

July to October in Britain; through to late November in parts of North America

Similar species

Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca has forked gills and does not form caespitose clusters.

Reference Sources

Fascinated by Fungi, 2nd Edition, Pat O’Reilly 2016, reprinted by Coch-y-bonddu Books in 2022.

Dictionary of the Fungi; Paul M. Kirk, Paul F. Cannon, David W. Minter and J. A. Stalpers; CABI, 2008

Taxonomic history and synonym information on these pages is drawn from many sources but in particular from the British Mycological Society’s GB Checklist of Fungi.

Acknowledgements

This page includes pictures kindly contributed by Dan Moore and Nigel Kent.

Top of page…

Fact checked by Steven Lines, lifelong Hunter, and Outdoorsman.

Hunting for elk can be a challenge. These are large animals protected by solid bones. You’ll need to use a powerful gun to get a kill shot. So, will the .30-30 be suitable for hunting an elk?

The .30-30 will be able to kill an elk. But it has a few drawbacks. First, it doesn’t have as much power as other calibers so, you will need to hit the vitals. Also, it has a limited range of 100 yards.

If you plan on hunting for elk, you’ll need to make sure that you are using the right tools. The .30-30 is a popular hunting rifle, especially for these larger animals. Read on to learn more about this rifle and how you can get the most out of it.

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Performance of the .30-30

To decide whether or not the .30-30 is a good choice for hunting, we need to look at how we can expect it to perform in the field. Here are some of the most important aspects to consider.

Accuracy

If you are hunting for elk, you’ll need to ensure using an accurate gun. This will ensure you can hit the target area and deliver a swift death. If you miss, the animal will suffer needlessly.

You might not get the same accuracy as other calibers, like the .30-06. However, the .30-30 will still be a relatively solid shot. As we’ll discuss later, you’ll need to be reasonably close to the target. From this distance, you should achieve a relatively tight grouping.

There are a few ways to improve your rifle’s accuracy. These include:

• Using a scope. One of the biggest criticisms of most .30-30 rifles is their accuracy. While they might have an iron sight, this might not be a huge advantage during a hunt. The good news is that you can change this by adding your scope. You should quickly see an improvement in your accuracy.
• Practice. Whenever you get a new gun, it’s essential to make sure you practice on the range. This will allow you to get used to how the gun feels, adjusting your style accordingly.

Weight

Another benefit of using a .30-30 is how much they weigh. They tend to be some of the lightest guns on the market. This is good for hunters, making it easier to carry.

Recoil

The good news is that this recoil is relatively mild, especially compared with the other guns typically used for elk hunting. This will make it easier for beginners to handle. It will also make it easier for you to make a follow-up shot if required.

Lever Action Rifle

Many .30-30 rifles will be lever action-style weapons. While this might have a few downsides, like limited range, it also presents some upsides. Most significantly, you’ll be easily able to chamber another round. You won’t need to look up from the scope as you do this. As a result, you’ll be able to fire a follow-up shot quickly.

Accessibility

Finally, the .30-30 is among the most popular calibers in the United States. Most major manufacturers will offer a rifle in this caliber. Ammunition is freely available. As a result, buying a gun and ammo will be pretty inexpensive.

What’s the Range of the .30-30?

The .30-30 has a relatively limited range. If you are hunting for large animals, like elk, you’ll need to shoot from within 100 yards. This ensures the bullet will hit with enough force to take them down.

One of the best ways to calculate the range of a gun is by looking at how quickly it fires the bullets. Generally, it will need to travel at 1,500 fps when it makes contact with the elk. How fast it travels will depend on both the gun and the bullet you are using.

Usually, the .30-30 won’t be too powerful. It’s common for most of these bullets to be traveling at 2,250 fps when they leave the gun. This is because of the way that they are shaped, often with a rounded tip. This slows their flight, as it takes more effort to push the air out of the way.

This means that you won’t have a long effective range. You’ll usually need to shoot from within 100 yards. If you don’t, you risk the bullet not having enough force to penetrate the elk. There are a few other elements to consider when deciding the best range for your gun. Let’s look at some of them:

• The force of the gun. We’ll discuss this in more depth later. But, compared with other calibers, the .30-30 isn’t as hard-hitting. As a result, you will need to move closer to the elk to have a chance of generating enough power to take them down.
• Accuracy of the shooter. Since the rifle caliber has limited power, you will need to ensure that you can hit the right area. If you don’t, you will only injure the animal and need to rely on a blood trail to find it again. Because of this, you might want to move a little closer for better bullet placement.

Even experienced shooters will struggle to kill an elk from more than 100 yards away with a .30-30. As a result, you will often need to get closer. Depending on your skill, you might need to try for 75 or 50 yards. As a general rule, the closer you can get, the better. You’ll have more chance of delivering a kill shot.

What Can You Shoot With the .30-30?

While the .30-30 has a wide range of uses. While it isn’t known for taking on big game, like elk, you can make a kill shot as long as you are close enough. There are a few other species that you can target with this caliber. These include:

• Deer hunting (Mule deer/Whitetail deer). This is what this caliber was invented to tackle. It has a long history in this area. It’s estimated that millions of deer have met their end because of the .30-30.
• Feral hogs. If you are close enough, you will be able to use this weapon to cut through the thick skin of a wild hog.
• Brown bear. Some hunters have managed to take down brown bears with the .30-30.
• Moose hunting. Again, type of weapon can provide enough force, but you will need to be within 100 yards for accurate shot placement.

Should You Use the .30-30 on Elk?

Whether or not the .30-30 is right for you will depend on a few factors. First, your hunting style. Some people prefer to shoot from a distance. In this case, the .30-30 isn’t the right caliber for you. Secondly, your accuracy. As it is a weaker gun, you’ll need to be able to hit the target area.

Hopefully, you have a better idea of some of the pros and cons of the .30-30. Whether this caliber is the best choice for you will depend on a few factors.

Hunting Style

One of the most important things to think about is your hunting style. Some people prefer to shoot from a distance, ideally from around 300 yards away. This ensures that they don’t spook the animal by trying to get too close. If this is you, the .30-30 might not be the best option. It just doesn’t have enough power to make shots from a long distance.

In other cases, you might prefer to take a more active role. You might want to stalk your prey, trying to get as close as you can before you take the shot. In this case, the limited range won’t be as much of a hindrance. You’ll also likely appreciate the lightweight nature of this gun. Because of this, the .30-30 might be a good choice.

Accuracy

It’s always important to ensure you can hit the vitals before pulling the trigger. But this is even more important when using the .30-30. These bullets will do a lot of damage, but they might not have the power to break through bone.

Amount to Spend Hunting

Hunting can be an expensive business. If you don’t have a lot to spend, you might want to think about getting the .30-30. These rifles tend to be reasonably inexpensive. Bullets are freely available and will be affordable.

Other Hunting Calibers to Consider

If you are close enough, the .30-30 shouldn’t have any problems taking down big animals, like elk and moose. But, if you plan on hunting big game frequently, there are a few other calibers to consider. This will give you more power and allow you to improve your range. This will let you take a wider variety of shots and give you a better chance of killing your target. Here are some of the other options on the market:

• .270. This is one of the most popular hunting options for you to choose from. This means that rifles and ammunition will be widely available. Plus, it offers plenty of power. It will leave a huge hole in the side of any bull. This post goes into more detail.
• .308. This is another hugely popular caliber. It has a tremendously powerful shot with limited recoil. It will offer enough power to take down wildebeest in Africa if you want. You can read more about the .308 here.
• .30-06. The .30-06 is great if you plan to hunt large animals. It packs a big punch. It also has a longer range. Some reports of hunters taking out elk from over 1,000 yards using this caliber.

Best Bullets for the .30-30

The .30-30 is pretty popular, so you can choose from plenty of bullets. If planning an elk hunt, you will need to use higher-grained bullets. Make sure that they are designed for big game hunting. While these might cost a little more, you can rest assured that they will get the job done. Some of the best options include:

• 170-grain Core-Lokt. This bullet from Remington is one of the most popular hunting bullets in the world. It’s been used for over 75 years, giving it a powerful reputation. It will be able to retain its bullet weight, expanding when it hits the bull elk.
• 190 grain Buffalo Bore. This is another bullet that is known for doing a lot of damage. It offers deep penetration and should be enough to take down big game, like elk.
• 160-grain Hornady LEVERevolution ammo. This bullet has been specifically designed to work with lever-action rifles, like the .30-30. They are also able to fly faster, allowing you to achieve deeper penetration and do more damage.

Trying to find the right hunting bullet can be a challenge. It’s often best to try a few options before deciding which one you want to use. Thankfully, most of these bullets will be fairly low-cost, making it easier to experiment.

Tips When Using the .30-30 for Hunting Elk

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As we mentioned, the .30-30 might not be the best choice when hunting for big game, like elk. But that doesn’t mean that it can’t be done. Here are some tips you can use to plan a successful hunt:

• Finding the elk. First, you’ll need to be able to locate the elk. Often, this will mean looking for attractive places to feed and locating water sources. You can look at rub marks on the trees and listen for bugling. Or you can use salt licks to get them to come to you.
• Practice your stalking skills. If you are going to use the .30-30, you’ll need to be able to get close to the elk. To do this, there are a few basic skills that you will need to master. For example, you will need to learn how to mask your scent successfully. You’ll also have to get used to using the terrain to your advantage. You’ll need to find places to take shelter and move without making too much noise.
• Customize the gun. Make sure that the gun fits you correctly. This will give you more control and help you control the recoil. You might also want to upgrade the scope. This will make it easier for you to hit the vitals.
• Hunt ethically. Finally, it’s important to remember the principles of ethical hunting. Don’t take the shot if you are too far away or don’t have the right angle. The last thing you want to do is cause needless suffering to the animal by only wounding it. When you are in position, shoot to kill.

Final Thoughts

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The .30-30 has a reputation for being highly effective against deer. This is why it is one of the most popular cartridges in the United States. However, it can also be used against elk. You’ll need to get closer, with an effective range of under 100 yards.

As it doesn’t have enough force to go through the bone, you’ll need to make sure that you can hit the vitals properly. Because of this, many people prefer to switch to more powerful calibers when hunting for big game, like elk.

Steven Lines is a hunter and outdoorsman from Safford, Arizona, USA. Since he was a child, he has been hunting and fishing and has over 20 years of outdoor experience. Steven works as a hunting guide in Arizona during his spare time and runs a Youtube channel dedicated to sharing his outdoor adventures with others.

Sources

• https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2015/12/20/america-s-most-wanted-ammunition/
• https://www.ronspomeroutdoors.com/blog/30-30-winchester-is-a-joke
• https://thebiggamehuntingblog.com/30-30-winchester/

History can’t be revised, retold, or rewritten. It is what it is. And the reality is that many of the greatest ice fishing lures—particularly those for panfish—were invented by John Butwinski of Little Atom. But it’s important to understand that the evolution of modern ice lures for panfish, and the basis for many of today’s fundamental designs, goes back to the 1950s. I fear the “rest of the story” has never been adequately told.

Most panfish specialists have fished the Little Atom Nuggie, Wedgee, and Noodle— some of the first micro-sized ice plastics. What few know, however, is that Butwinski designed many classic designs—Shmoe Spoon, Rat Finkie, Atom Ant, Purist, and Rembrandt. Most of these have been mimicked once Little Atom’s original patents expired, Butwinski having passed away in 1982. Rick and Don DeBaere purchased Little Atom in 1984 and unveiled some original ice fishing plastics in 1989, including the Tease Tail, based on drawings sketched by Butwinski in the 1960s.

Little Atom designs such as the Duppie, Skimpie, and Wedgee caught fire in the 1990s, quickly becoming go-to lures in early ice competitions. Rick DaBaere released the Nuggie in 2004, which Phil Morse tipped on a Fiskas jig to win the North American Ice Fishing Circuit (NAIFC) Championship. The Fiskas/Nuggie pairing became a tournament phenom, accounting for at least six NAIFC Championships. In terms of prominent, productive, important ice plastics, I rank it number one of all time.

Little Atom Rat Finkie: Almost every veteran ice angler has fished this masterpiece jig, yet few know the Rat Finkie was invented in 1964 by Butwinski, founder of Little Atom Lure Company. The original Finkie launched the trend toward horizontal-hanging ice jigs, the focus of countless designs to come. The objective remains to present the jig in a nearly parallel posture, positioning the hook at the optimal hook-set angle.

The Rat Finkie has been a confidence jig for me, triggering bites day after day, season after season. Other Finkie assets: Fine-wire hook, soft tubular body, and the fact you can tip it with a single larva or softbait to create the illusion of a tiny bite of food, natural in appearance and texture.

Five rows in my 30-year old Scientific Anglers box are crammed with Finkies, most solid white-glow, glow-pink, or solid purple. The white glow pattern with a single waxworm or half a Little Atom Wedgee has probably put more sunfish on the ice for me than any other three lures combined. The #12 and #14 sizes are tops for finessing big bluegills, while larger ones are awesome crappie jigs, tipped with a tiny minnow, jumbo waxie, or color-matched Wedgee or Ice Mite plastic.

Lindy Ice Worm: An extension of the horizontal jig concept, the tri-segmented Lindy Ice Worm (previously called the Genz Worm), was created by the master himself. Dave Genz intended it as a lure to reach deep perch faster, though it works in many situations. Two key features give it a rapid, nearly horizontal drop: An oversized head segment and an eyelet positioned further down the hook shank. Snug the knot tight to create a 90-degree angle between line and hook shank. Then tip it with a mass of eurolarvae to get the Ice Worm rocking as you jig it. A Berkley PowerBait Ice Whipworm also creates a segmented worm effect, an awesome big perch combo.

Fished over soft-bottom zones, this combo is killer for fish feeding on bloodworms. Genz advocated a slow, vertical climb, emulating the ascending actions of midge larvae as they vacate their benthic habitat. Drop the jig to the bottom and slowly inch it upward, using little rod tip quivers to make the jig dance as it rises, before dropping it back into the substrate.

Of note for this season is the introduction of a tungsten Lindy Ice Worm, along with tungsten renditions of their Toad, Bug, and Fat Boy.

Little Atom Shmoe: Created by Butwinski in 1959, the Shmoe Spoon remains deadly for most veteran crappie anglers, though often under other names. The Shmoe’s magic stems from its two-tone colorations—glow head, contrasting body—as well as its light-wire hook. Tip it with a small minnow, with the hook lightly piercing the skin parallel to the dorsal fin, point toward the head.

This combo has been so effective for crappies, perch, and walleyes that it could appear beside the definition of deadstick. The original thin gold hook remains an indispensable detail, pairing beautifully with tiny minnows. It’s light enough to keep baits alive and kicking, and can be bent repeatedly without breaking. I open the hook gap slightly, so it’s barely offset, and it hooks and holds crappies and walleyes better.

The Shmoe’s so productive fished in place with a lively minnow that it’s not necessary to jig it. But when you see fish eyeballing it on sonar or a camera, a fluid sweep of the rod, followed by a slow fluttering pause, usually closes the deal.

Fiskas Wolfram Epoxy Jig: Unlike the bass segment of the sport in which casual anglers follow tournament results like box scores, most ice fishers pay little attention to competitive events. That’s unfortunate when you consider some of the biggest breakthroughs—such as tungsten jigs and plastics—first gained fame in circuits such as the ‘Trap Attacks and NAIFC.

Anglers such as Mike McNett, Tony Boshold, and Phil and Jeff Morse have won so many NAIFC events with Fiskas Wolfram (tungsten) jigs that it’s surprising the tungsten trend took so long to go mainstream. Jamie Olson, owner of yourbobbersdown.com—primary North American distributor of Sweden-based Fiskas jigs—says more tournament money has been won with a 4-mm Fiskas E Series jig, white with glow red bead, than any other single ice lure. He ought to know, having sold thousands of them to tournament anglers out of his van during in the early tourney days.

A Fiskas Wolfram jig, coupled with a Little Atom Wedgee or Nuggie, is the archetypal tungsten-plastic pairing and Fiskas remains my all-time favorite. Hooks are fine-wire, durable, and sticky sharp. The paint doesn’t chip and their red and purple jigs with glow beads on the hook shank remain favorites. You can tie them with a loop knot to add jig action and pivot, but I’ve become a fan of the snell knot tied around the base of the head, which serves like a barb for holding softbaits in place.

Fiskas N24 Balance: It’s amazing that anglers continue to overlook this incredible bluegill jig, especially considering it’s in the same category as the classic Rapala Jigging Rap. Fiskas offers 29 varieties of “balance” lures, and the N24 “Gill Getter” is maybe the most remarkable. With a single hook on either side of the jig’s head, sunfish and other reluctant biters can’t bite it without getting stung.

Past NAIFC champion Phil Morse is a balance lure fanatic, tipping one hook on the Gill Getter with a Micro Nuggie. “No matter how or where ‘gills bite this jig, they can’t avoid one of the tiny hooks,” he says. “It glides beautifully after you twitch it and returns to a perfect horizontal posture at rest.” It’s tiny, just 1/50-ounce with two #18 hooks. But amid tough bites, it’s hard to beat.

Akara Disco Ball: We’ve often written in In-Fisherman about the value of through-head style tungsten jigs for fishing thread-thin lines for small fish. If you ask top ice anglers from Latvia, Russia, and North America to agree on one elite ice jig, it would almost certainly resemble a gold Akara Tungsten Mormishka Disco Ball.

Through-head jigs require the angler to tie a snell knot, passing the line through the jig’s head, and wrapping it around the hook shank. The advantage is a knot that doesn’t require repositioning or retying nearly as frequently as other designs, and a jig that hangs at the same near-horizontal posture. The knot also serves as a barb or keeper to secure softbaits.

What separates gold disco ball heads from plain or painted heads is the reflective properties of the multi-faceted metallic surface. When you look at this jig on an Aqua-Vu camera, you can’t miss the sparkle its faceted surface creates. Gold can be an exceptional hue for bluegills and crappies. I spent most of the 2015 season fishing this jig for sunfish and never regretted it. And it’s a confidence jig for some of the best panfish anglers I know.

Jeff’s Jigs Tungsten Zoo Bug: A departure from about every other jig you’ve fished, the Zoo Bug is an exceptional Daphnia mimic, the only one I know of. In 2013, master fly and jig tier Jeff Wenger and I began discussing the possibility of producing a super-realistic zooplankton imitation. Wenger blew me away with the Zoo Bug, a beautiful transparent-bodied jig-fly with anatomically correct antennae and an internal tungsten bead. Unique to the Zoo Bug is its semisoft epoxy exterior, weighted body, and remarkable underwater action, mimicking the real thing in a supersized rendition.

It’s garnered a considerable following, particularly among younger tournament anglers and guides, prompting Wenger to quit his “real job” and become a full-time tier. He sells loads of these jigs, staying busy year-round.

Give it short darting actions with a Thorne Bros Quiverstick Stealth or other fast-tip ice rod, imitating the bug-like stop-and-go motions of live Daphnia—one of the primary wintertime foods of crappies and sunfish. Tip it with a single waxworm, a trio of eurolarvae, or a plastic tail, such as a J & S Plastics Ice Mite Jr., or fish it plain.

With the success the Zoo Bug, Wenger also offers Tungsten Copepods, Scuds, and a sweet shrimp imitation. Don’t go to Devils Lake without a stash of his Tungsten Shrimp, a favorite producer of big crustacean-munching perch.

Northland Tackle Forage Minnow Spoon: Probably the lure responsible for more big perch than any other in my box, a 1/32- or 1/16-ounce Forage Minnow Spoon is an amazing lure. With a bent shape in a small package, its thin silhouette is suggestive of food.

Given the spoon’s lifelike qualities, you can’t fish it wrong by imparting tiny twitches or raising it by slowly elevating your rod tip or reeling. Try to get perch and crappies to chase the lure up in the water column until they can’t resist striking. That failing, quickly flutter the spoon back to bottom and start over again.

Tip each tine of the red treble hook with multiple maggots or a small minnow head. I’ve also had success with a Northland Impulse Perch Eye. Choose a tipping that’s heavy enough to make the hook pivot and dance with the slightest movement of the lure.

Salmo Chubby Darter: The original “ice crankbait,” the Salmo Chubby Darter is another one with a cool story, created by In-Fisherman digital editor Jeff Simpson. He carved prototypes for what would become the Salmo Chubby Darter over 15 years ago. “I grew up fishing South Dakota’s prairie lakes, which lack structure or edges,” Simpson says. “The fish there are nomads; you have to move and drill constantly to stay on the bite. The idea behind the Chubby Darter was to create a lure that would call fish to me.

“I carved the first ones from balsa, then weighted them with enough lead to sink. That first day, my friend Paul Schamber laid on the ice and watched the action. Within seconds of jigging the first Chubby Darter, walleyes and perch were surrounding and striking it. Everywhere we drilled a hole and dropped the bait, fish seemed to swarm it. Salmo in Poland didn’t stray from my original prototypes, other than to add sweet paint jobs and build the lures from foam instead of wood.

Simpson says the Darter was the first of its kind, with an action similar to a crankbait, vibrating and darting on the upstroke, wobbling on the fall. It’s may be the best ice lure for triggering jumbo crappies, perch, and walleyes I’ve fished, depending on what size you select among 4 options from 11â’„3- to 21â’„2 inches.

Rapala Jigging Rap: The W2 and W3 Jigging Rap is, like several others on this list, a timeless, hall of famer that always catches fish. Over deep flats or along drop-offs, the Rap remains an efficient, alluring option, particularly for big perch and crappies. For years, we talked about tipping the treble hook with maggots or a minnow head. Today, we know this is generally unnecessary. Keep it twitching and dancing as you jig it in the water column, daring fish to chase and commit. Pause frequently.

Fished with one of the micro braided lines (I like 3-pound test Sufix Nanobraid) and an 18-inch leader of 4-pound fluorocarbon, a W2 Jigging Rap also is an overlooked bluegill bait, selecting for big fish. One overlooked presentation involves holding the Rap still, just above fish level, and occasionally quivering it nervously.

*In-Fisherman Field Editor Cory Schmidt, Brainerd, Minnesota, is an avid ice angler and industry insider.

Today I’m going to show you the best muzzleloader scope.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over 10 scopes alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best muzzleloader scopes, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

How to Choose a Muzzleloader Scope

Optics can be a crazy expensive addition to your firearm.

But don’t just go throw any old scope on top of your boom stick.

There are considerations you need to make in your purchase, and you need to be more selective if you’re putting an optic on your muzzleloader.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

One of the most important aspects of choosing a scope is to consider the glass quality. You can only shoot as well as you can see. And if you can’t see well through your new optic, you wasted your money.

Higher end scopes from brands like Nikon and Leupold will have excellent glass with crystal clear picture clarity and color fidelity.

If you choose a more affordable scope, don’t cut corners on glass. Vortex Optics makes many scopes that fall in affordable price ranges while still having a wonderfully bright sight picture.

When choosing a scope, you want to pick one that lists having fully coated lenses. This means that all of the exterior lenses have a coating that increases light transmission to your eye-this will give you a bright sight picture.

Ideally, getting fully multi-coated lenses is best. This means that all of the lenses have many coatings that improve the light transmission and cut down on glare. You’ll get a clear and bright view through the optic. And the anti-glare coatings will prevent objective lens reflections that could give away your position.

The reticle you chose is up to you. You can choose to get a reticle that is hashed to account for bullet drop (BDC reticle) to help you estimate holdover for your shots. Some shooters prefer a clean and simple duplex crosshair. I’m not sure if an illuminated reticle is really beneficial for a muzzleloader, but if you want one, no one will stop you.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

As a muzzleloader shooter, eye relief is a spec that you can’t ignore like some centerfire riflists do.

If you have an eye relief that is shorter than 3 inches, your scope is going to scrape off your eyebrow when you shoot. That’s both painful and embarrassing.

Save yourself the trouble and get a longer eye relief scope with at least 4 inches.

You also want a generous eye box with room to adjust behind your optic and still get a good sight picture. The bigger your ocular lens is, the better this feature will be.

Durability

If a scope isn’t listed as being o-ring sealed. Pass on it. It’s worth spending your hard earned money on an o-ring sealed optic. This makes it rain and waterproof.

You also should look at getting a scope that is argon or nitrogen purged. This will not only help with light transmission but will keep your scope from fogging in crummy weather.

You don’t want a hunt ruined by less than ideal weather. Invest in a durable optic from the start.

Another special consideration for muzzleloaders is to make sure that the scope you choose is shockproof or recoil proof. Your firearm has harder recoil when you shoot compared to many centerfire rifles.

You will want a scope that can handle the extra kick.

Leupold boasts that all of its scopes must survive 5,000 rounds on the Punisher- a device that mimics recoil 3x stronger than a .308.

Vortex also makes nearly indistructive scopes that are a bit more budget friendly.

No matter which brand you choose, do your homework and sift through product reviews looking for durability or other shooters using it on a muzzleloader.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

Elevation and windage knobs, also called turrets, are what you use to make fine-tuning adjustments to your scope. You use these to zero your optic, or adjust it so that your shots actually land where you’re aiming.

The elevation turret will move your shot up and down. The windage turret will adjust your shot from left to right.

Ideally, you want turrets that have a tactile and audible click that you can hear and feel when making adjustments.

Getting locking turrets that can not be accidentally turned are a nice feature, but those will add to the cost. Less expensive optics will have capped turrets with screw on caps that cover both turrets.

Some brands will send you elevation turrets that are marked to compensate for bullet drop for your particular load upon request.

Parallax & Magnification

Centerfire rifle scopes often have the parallax fixed at 100-150 yards for centerfire rifles. That’s pushing the range for a muzzleloader, where parallax should be fixed to about 75 yards.

If you want to put a centerfire rifle scope on your muzzleloader, you need to take this into consideration.

Some more expensive scopes have a side parallax adjustment so you can lock it out for your shooting distance.

Some brands will factory adjust it for you if you send your new scope to them.

A muzzleloading rifle cannot fire shots that move as fast or as far as centerfire rounds. You will not be making shots from several hundred yards away from your prey, so don’t go crazy on magnification.

A high powered scope will hurt more than it helps because it will bring your target too close to you. If you take a high powered scope on your next deer hunt, all you’ll be able to see will be a big hairy patch on the animal’s hide-if you can even find the animal at all.

High powered scopes will have a narrow field of view too-which will make it harder for you to spot your target.

When looking at scopes, the magnification is the first set of numbers before the “x”, so 1-5×24 would be a scope with magnification powers that will make your target 1 to 5 times bigger than what you can see with your naked eye.

You don’t want anything higher than 5x.

Many muzzleloading minutemen prefer a 1-5x or even 1x, 2x, or 3x fixed magnification. For muzzleloading, smaller magnification is better.

The number after the “x” is the size of the objective lens (the lens at the end of the scope) in millimeters. A 1-5×24 scope has an objective lens that’s 24 mm in diameter.

You can look here for a list of the best 1-4x scopes.

Mounting & Rings

Because your muzzleloader kicks like a mule compared to many centerfire rifles, it will do a number on your scope and the equipment you use to attach it.

You want to be sure to use a solid mount (if you need an aftermarket one) and solid rings. You don’t want to cut corners on your mounting hardware.

Here’s a great video that will help you pick top notch mounting hardware:

Final Thoughts

You can easily pick a top-notch scope for your muzzleloader. You just need to keep a few key points in mind.

You want:

• Quality Glass
• Low magnification
• Highly durable scope design
• At least 4 inches of eye relief
• Heavy duty mounting hardware

With these 5 things in mind, you’ll be able to pick an optic-at any price range- that will fit your budget and your needs.

If you’re also looking for an ACOG, look here.

The 4 Best Muzzleloader Scope

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best muzzleloader scope:

1. Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32: Best Overall
2. Bushnell Banner 3-9×50: Best Muzzleloader Scope Under $100
3. Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40: Best Long Range Muzzleloader Scope
4. Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40: Best for the Budget

1. Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32: Best Overall

The Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 is the best overall scope on the market, especially for hunters.

In fact, it’s got all the features and qualities that you could need at an affordable price that won’t break the bank.

I put this on my AR-15 to test it out months ago and have yet to take it off because it works so well.

Want to hear more? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The first time I looked into this scope I was surprised to find the glass was just as clear as other scopes that are twice the price!

The lenses are fully multi-coated, which means you get a nice, bright sight picture, even in the midday sun.

The Dead-Hold BDC reticle is my favorite part of the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32.

Having a bullet drop compensation reticle means that you’ll easily be able to estimate your holdover at varying distances, even as far out as 500 yards.

The reticle is second focal plane, which means that it doesn’t change size with magnification. With 1.75-5x magnification, this works great.

If you had a higher magnification to shoot at extra long distances, you might need the reticle to increase in size. But since I’m not using this scope for 3-gun competitions, my average prey is usually only around 100-300 yards.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 has 3.5-3.7 inches of eye relief.

If I have one complaint about this scope, it’s that the eye relief does seem to be a little unforgiving, depending what you mount it on.

On my AR-15 it’s tolerable with a good cheek weld, but on something like 6.5 Creedmoor, it would be pretty tight.

However, I do really love that this scope has a fast focus eyepiece. This allows you to get the reticle focused quickly.

Target acquisition is fast and easy, almost as good as a prism scope or red dot sight.

Durability

This scope is built like a tank and can handle whatever you throw at it.

It’s a one-piece tube with a hard anodized finish that can take a beating. This finish also helps to keep your setup camouflaged when you’re out hunting.

Plus, it’s O-ring sealed and Argon purged, which makes it waterproof and fogproof.

If that’s not enough, it’s backed by Vortex’s unlimited lifetime warranty that covers anything that could go wrong.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are ¼ MOA click adjustments.

The turrets give nice, audible clicks and have a zero reset under the caps.

Speaking of zeroing, it couldn’t be easier. After only a handful of shots, I was hitting a half inch target easily and exceptionally accurately.

And, after at least 400 rounds or so, the zero has held. I even accidentally dropped it on the gravel road and it was still dead on.

Parallax & Magnification

The Vortex Diamondback has 1.75-5x magnification.

This is the perfect range for brush hunting and big game hunting. It gives you an accurate sight picture from 100-500 yards easily.

For deer hunting, you’ll be hard pressed to find a scope that’s better than this one.

As for parallax, it’s fixed at 100 yards and I really haven’t noticed a problem.

Mounting & Rings

This scope is an excellent value, but you will need to buy your own mount.

I’d recommend getting Vortex Pro Series Rings. That’s what I used and they’re great.

As for other accessories, it doesn’t come with much. Just removable lens caps. I’d suggest getting some flip-up caps like the Vortex Optics Defender Flip Caps.

Is the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 worth it?

This scope is really the best overall scope for hunters, with all the features you need.

It has:

• Audible click turrets
• Fast focus eyepiece
• 1.75-5x magnification
• Dead-Hold BDC reticle
• Fully multi-coated lenses
• Shockproof, waterproof, fogproof

If you’re an avid hunter and want a scope that has all the features you’ll need to bag your prey, try the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32. You won’t be disappointed.

2. Bushnell Banner 3-9×50: Best Muzzleloader Scope Under $100

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is by far the most elite budget friendly muzzleloader scope I have found throughout my hunting career.

Not only does the scope come in at an amazing price, but the quality and attention to detail is apparent.

If you want to learn why this scope hasn’t come off my muzzleloader setup since the day I purchased it stick around.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is a scope with unbelievable brightness and glass clarity.

Even with the impressively low price, Bushnell did not sacrifice any quality with the building of this scope.

The dusk and dawn brightness multi coated lens provides amazing improvements to both the clarity and brightness of the scope.

In addition, the scope has a fast-focus eyepiece that makes target acquisition even easier.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 gives me great confidence whether I am out for a day on the range or sitting in a tree stand during muzzleloader season.

The reticle that comes on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is the multi-x reticle.

This was my first experience with this particular reticle and I am really enjoying it so far. I tend to be slightly picky about my reticle and this one has fit my shooting style unbelievably well.

This scope was an absolute dream addition to my muzzleloader setup.

Not being my main form of hunting, I try to keep my muzzleloader setup on a tight budget and the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 fit right into that.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is very forgiving and a great option for any setup.

I have found that with the forgiving eye relief, the sight can be mounted in a comfortable position on any firearm.

I have used this primarily on my slug shotgun setup and muzzleloader setup.

It would also work great on any other rimfire options.

In addition, the scope has a fantastic field of view which makes this a great option for any hunting setup.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has got to be one of the best budget muzzleloader scopes I have used.

Also, here are some great options if you are looking for a handgun scope for those long muzzleloader hikes.

Durability

The durability so far on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has been fantastic.

My muzzleloader definitely takes the stress of long hikes and some crazy weather. This scope has seen it all and continues to perform like I just took it out of the box.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is waterproof, fogproof, shockproof, and dry-nitrogen filled.

This scope has taken a beating and keeps on going. Especially in my muzzleloader setup, I need a scope that works 100% of the time no questions asked.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage knobs have performed surprisingly well for the low price tag this scope comes in at.

Usually on budget scopes I find the turrets are often mushy and inconsistent.

This is not the case with the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50. The turrets have been precise and accountable every time I have used them.

They have well defined movement and sound that makes it a satisfactory scope to zero.

My zeroing process was surprisingly easy. I took the scope directly out to the range right after I got it.

In maybe 30 minutes I was able to achieve some of my best muzzleloader groupings at 100 yards.

In addition, I have rarely had to touch the turrets since I zerod for the first time.

This tells me that the zero holds fantastically well on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50.

Parallax & Magnification

I have been using the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 for a few months and have noticed a slight parallax as I get higher in magnification.

It is nothing excessive and certainly doesn’t hinder my shooting abilities; however, it is something that I noticed throughout my testing.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has a magnification of 3x to 9x which is perfect for my usage.

This being on my muzzleloader setup means that it is not often I am taking shots beyond 100 yards.

9x is far more magnification than is needed for a shot at that range, but it is certainly nice to have when the heart is racing and the hands are sweating.

Mounting & Rings

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 did not come with mounts so I purchased a set of Warne 1inch Quick Detach Rings in a Low Matte finish.

I ended up going for the quick detach mounts because I thought I was going to be swapping it out on my slug setup.

This was not the case and I can’t seem to take it off my muzzleloader because I like that setup so much.

I would also recommend getting Monstrum Rubberized Flip-Up Lens Covers (Objective Lens: 37-42mm).

These have been some of my favorite flip up lenses I have found to date.

Is the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 worth it?

I am very cautious about spending money on budget scopes because I am unsure how long they will last me. The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has put all of my worries to bed and has become my favorite muzzleloader scope in my entire arsenal.

Here’s why:

• Price
• Clarity
• Durability

In short: the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is a fantastic scope that will outperform scopes that cost over double the price.

If you are still unsure whether the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is the right scope for you, give it a try. I am sure you will be just as thrilled as I am.

3. Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40: Best Long Range Muzzleloader Scope

For the true muzzleloader fan, a high quality scope is a must.

Whether hunting or target shooting, accuracy with a muzzleloader can be tough.

The Leupold VX-3i can remove one part of that difficulty.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is some of the finest I’ve seen on a rifle scope.

A military-grade coating called DiamondCoat 2 is the reason. It allows maximum light transmission while being very scratch resistant. The lenses are built for life.

The DiamondCoat 2 also lets all colors of light in, so there is no tinting whatsoever, and it shows when you have a big buck sighted near twilight. The only thing brighter is night vision.

The duplex reticle is pretty plain, but for a muzzleloader it isn’t a big issue. You aren’t going to be taking game at 300 yards. It’s perfect for a muzzleloading application and many others.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

I’ve found the scope to be very comfortable on top of my modern front stuffer, then I found the reason.

Even at maximum magnification, the spec sheet on the Leupold boasts 3.6 inches of eye relief. It’s even greater at 3.5x power, a whopping inches. I could mount this thing on my shotty and fire 3.5 inch shells without worry of scope bite, much less the kick from any black powder rifle out there.

That said, you won’t need to adjust anything on your rifle’s mounting location to plop this guy on. It’ll work fine for pretty much every rifle out there on a standard rail.

Durability

Leupolds are tough. I’ve owned several over the years and this is one area where they never cut corners.

They have a special scope torture device at their lab, called the Punisher. This machine bangs the test design 5000 times with three times the force of a .308, and any design that doesn’t pass gets sent back to the drawing board.

It’s one of the main things I love about this brand. They are simply the toughest scopes out there, and the new DiamondCoat 2 coating adds another layer of military-grade durability to the lenses themselves.

They’re also waterproof to 33 feet and have a special proprietary gas blend inside to keep moisture out. They won’t fog or falter, even at 40 below.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

Super reliable turrets, but what else would you expect?

The clicks are firm and precise, which makes zeroing the scope a breeze.

It won’t be too often on your muzzleloader that windage and drop will be an issue, but if you do want to take a long shot, you know the drop on a lead ball can be tremendous.

Being able to click down for some skill shots to impress your friends is important, and the scope has an adjustment range of 52 MOA. It’ll give you the adjustment you need for any range you would ever want to shoot your muzzleloader.

Parallax & Magnification

Magnification ranges from 3.5 to 10, and adjusts easily with the smooth turning dial.

The adjustment is perfect for a muzzleloader scope. At 3.5x, you have a wide enough field of view to hunt accurately while still getting a huge boost in the accuracy of your shots, and 10x makes even the tiniest targets at 100 yards big enough to see.

10x is also a great magnification for testing the accuracy of your loads. We put so much effort into weighing bullets, picking the right wadding, carefully measuring powder, and greasing with the right lube, that it’s nice to see how reliable all that work really is at the range.

If there was a complaint about this scope, it would be that the parallax is non-adjustable. It’s set at 150 yards with Leupold. But again, for hunting or target shooting, the scope is still going to be tighter than most muzzleloader groups.

Plus cheek rest is a skill, and most of use wouldn’t be shooting black powder if we didn’t like a challenge.

If you won’t need the high magnification, of course, you might consider something designed for a battle rifle.

Mounting & Rings

No rings are included with the scope, and while any ole one-inch rings will do the trick, you are pairing a rugged muzzleloader to a rugged scope. Prudence dictates using something sturdy to do it, like Leupold Permanent Weaver-Style Cross-Slot rings.

Leupold also makes lens covers to work with their VX-3 line.

Is the Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40 worth it?

If you are looking for a budget scope, this probably isn’t it. That said, one feature of the VX-3i is that it was designed to be a bit more wallet friendly than some other Leupold scopes.

If you want the absolute best value in a quality scope for your muzzleloader, this is the one.

Let’s recap.

• Crystal clear view
• Military-grade coatings
• Tremendously long eye-relief
• Passed Leupold’s torture testing
• Great magnification range for muzzleloaders

And it comes with the best lifetime guarantee in the world of shooting.

Really, you can’t go wrong with the Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40 scope. It’s the obvious choice.

4. Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40: Best for the Budget

The Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 is a versatile scope and great quality for the price.

In fact, it’s less than half the cost of other brands and has most of the same features and qualities.

I am an avid hunter and use this scope regularly on my trips.

Want to know why? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

With this scope you’ll get a sharp, bright image.

The glass is high quality and the scope has multi-coated lenses to cut down on glare and give you a crystal clear sight picture.

And what about the reticle?

The Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 has a Truplex reticle, as it says in the name. What that means is that the edge of the posts are thicker and then the crosshairs thin out towards the center.

This makes it much easier to target in low light and thicker background brush. It also makes target acquisition super quick and easy.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

You’ll get 3.75 inches of eye relief with this scope.

That’s pretty great compared to most similar scopes. And it means you won’t have to worry about how much your rifle kicks.

Plus, the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 has Quick Target Acquistion (QTA) eyepiece. This, along with the Truplex reticle, makes target acquisition incredibly fast. And easily comparable to something like a red dot sight.

Durability

Even though this scope is extremely affordable compared to most, Simmons didn’t stinge on the materials or features.

It is O-ring sealed, making it completely waterproof. And, it has a nitrogen purged housing too. So you don’t have to worry about your optic fogging up.

It’s also recoilproof and can handle whatever caliber rifle you want to put this scope on.

From personal experience, I can tell you that the Simmons customer service is excellent. So, even if you have a problem, you can rest assured they’ll take care of you.

And Simmons makes a lot of other products too, including scope for air rifles. Which means if you love the Truplex reticle, you can get it in different types of scopes.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are easy to adjust and give you ¼ MOA adjustment clicks.

This scope has the TrueZero elevation and windage adjustment system, which gives you a locked in zero.

And speaking of zeroing, it only took me about 15 minutes, if that, to get this scope set.

The TrueZero system helps the scope hold zero extremely well. I’ve taken mine hunting many times and never had to readjust.

Parallax & Magnification

You’ll get a lot of versatility with this scope because it has a variable magnification of 3-9x.

With that range, you can shoot accurately from around 100 yard out to about 900 max.

Which makes this scope the perfect attachment for your hunting rifle. I use it mainly for varmint hunting, but feel confident I could take bigger game at greater distances with this scope.

It’s also great for just target plinking and is a lot of fun to use for shooting at the range.

Plus, the parallax is fixed at 100 yards and I haven’t had any noticeable issues with it.

Mounting & Rings

The downside to this scope is that it doesn’t come with a mount.

But, when you’re buying a scope at such a great price, you can’t expect to get too many accessories.

I went with AccuShot Picatinny/Weaver Medium Profile 2-piece 1-inch Rings for mine.

It does come with lens caps, but they’re not flip up. You just put them on when you’re not using the scope. If you want flip up covers, these Monstrum Rubberized Covers work pretty well.

Is the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 worth it?

This scope is the perfect choice for any avid hunter.

It has:

• Clear Glass
• Truplex reticle
• Unbeatable price
• TrueZero System
• 3-9x variable magnification

If you’re looking for the best quality scope that’s budget friendly, try the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40. You’ll be happy you did.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best muzzleloader scopeguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which scope will you pick for your rifle?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

The most common questions I get from first time hunters and from out of state DIY elk hunters is about how to find the “best” hunting units.

I usually ask them what does “best” mean to them. I think most people mean easy. Some elk hunts can be easy, but don’t count on it.

Chances are, you should be able to find elk on every unit on National Forest lands, without any additional knowledge. But more information will always be helpful.

Of course the local hunters know when and where to find elk on units that have few elk, but non-residents will not, so choose a unit proven to have lots of elk during your hunting season.

For me, the best hunting unit has more to do with the quality of my outdoor camping, scouting and hunting experience, but I am also a numbers guy. So in this case, best will be a purely numeric analysis of Colorado’s elk harvest data for the three OTC hunts; 2nd Rifle, 3rd Rifle and Archery hunts.

You can research population estimates in the Herd Management Plans (DAU Reports – AKA Data Analysis Units) or you can see how many elk were harvested in the past and see the hunter success and the amount of hunting pressure.

If you are an out of state hunter, unless you have done lots of scouting before, I suggest you start researching units where at least 50 elk were harvested and also had better than average hunting success.

2021 Colorado OTC Elk Licenses

The OTC licenses are just that, sold over the counter and many of these OTC licenses are unlimited and will be on sale for 2020 starting in Early August (August 6 in 2020).

Colorado OTC Rifle Elk Hunts

Let’s start with the Over-the-counter (OTC) rifle hunts. The OTC rifle seasons are the 2nd and 3rd rifle seasons. In 2020, the 2nd rifle season will be Oct 24 – Nov. 1 and the 3rd rifle season will be Nov. 7 – 13.

These hunts are for Antlered Elk Only (Bull Elk) and are available in 93 hunt units (GMUs – Game Management Units) in Western Colorado. The latest available harvest data from Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW) is from 2019 (see tables below).

Looking at past harvest data is important in choosing a hunting unit. The harvest data reported by CPW are available compiled in various ways and it is easy to see harvest numbers, hunting success and hunting pressure for each unit. But it is a little more difficult to separate results from OTC tags from other hunts that occur at the same times and places.

Limited Entry (LE) elk hunts for both antlered and antlerless elk do occur during the 2nd and 3rd rifle seasons. There is no overlap in space (units are separated; LE only in some, OTC only in others) for the bull elk hunts, but there is overlap in the units for the limited cow elk hunts.

By removing the number of hunters that participate in cow elk hunts from the total, I attempt to get more accurate estimates of OTC rifle hunters and harvest data, but have to make some assumptions because CPW does not provide separated data. Those assumptions are that all hunters (OTC Bull Elk and Limited Antlerless) hunt with the same effort (days hunted) and have the same success during the 2nd or 3rd rifle seasons. This is not perfect, but I think is better than leaving them clumped together.

In the past, I reported these numbers for each new season when harvest reports were available, but decided that a three year average would be more useful since the numbers of elk harvested jumps around. For instance, for 2nd Rifle, there are only 14 GMUs that were in the top 20 in both 2014 and 2018 and only 10 GMUs in the top 20 every year from 2014 to 2018. So there is some yearly variation and some GMUs have been trending up and some trending down.

Table 1 shows the top 24 units for the OTC 2nd Rifle Season. Data were averaged for the last three years of harvest data available (2017 – 2019). The left side of the table is ranked by total bull elk taken by OTC tag holders in OTC units during the 2nd rifle season. The right side of Table 1 is same data ranked by Hunter Success.

Table 1. Top 24 Colorado OTC Rifle Units – 2nd Rifle Season – 3 year Average 2017 – 2019

For total bull elk harvest, the top 24 OTC 2nd Rifle Season elk units ranged from an average of 61 to 184 elk harvested (left side Table 1). I included harvest data from 24 units instead of 20 because half (54%) of all Bull Elk Harvest (2nd Season OTC Rifle) came from 24 of the 92 hunt units and it also allowed me to include GMU 54 which ranked in the top 23 for Bull Elk harvest and for hunter success.

For hunter success (right side of Table 1), I limited units to those with an average of at least 25 bull elk over the three years, so some units had higher success than these units, but only had a few elk harvested. So, highest hunter success (with at least 25 bulls harvested) ranged from 31.3% to 12.6%. Total hunter success for the 2017, 2018 and 2019 in OTC 2nd rifle seasons was 13.2%, 13.4% and 14.3% respectively. The top 25 units ranked by hunter success accounted for 15% of all Bull Elk Harvested for the last three OTC 2nd rifle seasons.

Also notice that 13 GMUs are hi-lighted on both sides of the table, because these GMUs ranked in the top 24 for both total harvest and hunter success.

When compared to last year’s table (2015 – 2017 average), 23 of the GMUs are the same. GMU 14 was added and GMUs 28 and 24 dropped out (I used the Top 25 GMUs for Bull elk harvest last year.

When last year’s hunter success was compared, 18 of the GMUs are the same and 6 new GMUs were added, but I also changed the cutoff from 50 bull elk to 25 to be considered.

Five units (4, 13, 22, 85 and 421) were in the top units for both the 2nd and 3rd rifle seasons for both total Bull Elk harvest and for hunter success.

Colorado Hunting Maps & Hunting Accessories

Table 2 (left side) shows the top 25 units ranked by total bull elk taken by OTC tag holders in the OTC units during the 3rd rifle season. The right side of Table 2 is ranked by Hunter Success.

Table 2. Top 25 Colorado OTC Rifle Units – 3rd Rifle Season – 3 year Average 2017 – 2019

For total bull elk harvest, the top 25 OTC 3rd Rifle Season elk units ranged from 163 to 55 bull elk (average harvest – left side Table 2). The top 25 units accounted for over half (54%) of all Bull Elk Harvest during the 3rd OTC Rifle Season(2017 – 2019), I included 25GMUs because the last two had 51 bull elk harvested and it would also include two additional units (units 5 & 551) that ranked for both total elk harvest and for hunter success.

For hunter success (right side of Table 1), GMUs had at least 29 bull elk harvest (3 year average). Remember, some units had higher success, but I only considered units that had at least 25 bull elk harvested. Hunter success (with at least 29 bull elk) ranged from 32.3% to 13.3%. Average hunter success for the 2017 – 2019 OTC 3rd rifle season was 14.9%. The top 25 units ranked by hunter success accounted for 49.5% of all Bull Elk Harvested for the OTC 3rd rifle season.

Notice the 18 hi-lighted units on both side of Table 2. These 18 units ranked in the top 25 for both total harvest and hunter success.

Colorado OTC Archery Elk Hunts

Now let’s look at the OTC Archery Hunts (Combined Either-sex and Antlered hunts). Table 3 shows GMUs ranked by total Elk Harvested (left side) and by Hunter Success (right side). There are two types of OTC Archery Elk Tags; Either Sex or Bull Elk Only. The 2021 OTC Archery season will be Sept. 2 – 30.

There are OTC Archery tags available for 122 Either Sex GMUs and 51 Antlerless Elk GMUs on public land. There is much overlap, but there are 124 total OTC Archery Elk GMUs on public land. There are also 7 additional private only units, but those data are not included. There are 49 units that offer either tag (Either Sex or Antlerless Only).

Table 3. Top 25 Colorado OTC Archery Units – 3 year Average 2017 – 2019

The top 25 units ranked by total elk harvest accounted for 70% of the total OTC Elk Archery harvest. The top 25 units ranked by hunter success (Table 3) accounted for 58.5% of the total OTC Elk Archery harvest.

I included a few extra GMUs in the table, because adding a few more allowed me to include 5 more GMUs that were in the top 25 for both total harvest and hunter success.

For total elk harvest (bulls, cows & calves combined), the top 25 OTC elk units ranged from 227 to 50 elk harvested.

For the top 25 units by hunter success, I limited units to those where at least 20 total elk were harvested. Some units had higher success, but only had a few elk harvested. So, highest hunter success (with at least 20 elk, ranged from 28.3% to 10.3%, compared to the overall average OTC Archery Success (2017 – 2019) of 10.1%.

Again, notice that after the latest update, 14 units are now hi-lighted on both sides of Table 3. These 14 GMUs ranked in the top 25 for both total harvest and hunter success.

For total elk harvested, the table changed over the last two years as Bull elk only tags have transitioned to Either Sex tags. In 2019 the Either sex tags were new and Bull Elk only still existed. Last year, the Bull Elk only tags were dropped.

High Hunter Density is not all Bad

Many days, I see other hunters at parking areas, and I hear them driving around on the roads, but I rarely see or hear hunters in the woods. I usually coordinate with other people I do see to make sure we don’t end up at the same place.

Also, if a unit has lots of hunters, that is usually a good indication that area has lots of access points to disperse the traffic. Of course, some areas can get very crowded, but with a few days to scout, you should be able to find less crowded areas.

Also, some hunters will go deep to find elk and they almost always bump elk (I know I bump elk that other people may get to see), those elk have to go somewhere and they might just run over you.

These tables are just to help you get started with the selection process. These are the units in Colorado where the most elk are harvested and those that have the highest hunter success. Spend a little time researching the combination of these factors and also consider the size of the units, the number of access points and the amount of hunting pressure they get.

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There is also an OTC Plains Rifle season in eastern Colorado. These units obviously don’t have as many elk or public land as the western units, but they do offer long hunting seasons and the opportunity to hunt either sex elk with an OTC tag. The total harvest in the plains units is relatively low and most elk are harvested by local hunters that know the country and know when elk can be found there.

If you are considering a hunt in the plains units, make sure you know where the public land is and that elk should be using those areas at the time you want to hunt. Many of these units do not have any elk harvested during the season.

I no longer rank the Plains Rifle units because CPW makes it impossible to find or to separate the data.

For More info on Hunting Elk with OTC tags in Colorado and to see units maps, read my post here or download the newest Colorado Big Game Brochure here.

So now when guys ask we what is the best hunt unit in Colorado for an OTC tag, I’m going to start by sending them to this page. Good luck on your hunt.