According to www.dictionary.com, cull means “to choose, select or pick”. In other words, deer culling is when a human decides which animal is being taken from the herd. By definition, deer culling is not much different from hunting.
There are a few reasons why a deer herd would be culled:
Herd Reduction
Deer and vehicle collisions
Property damage
Disease Control
Herd Reduction
Herd reduction is often used within urban areas and forest preserves. This type of deer culling normally involves sharp shooters. The goal is to reduce the size of the herd to prevent things like starvation and incest.
Herd reduction does come with quite a hefty price tag. The cost of these deer culls can run from around $340 per deer to $740 per deer. The overall price of herd reduction culling can easily run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. (1)
Deer and vehicle collisions
Deer and vehicle collisions are a common occurrence in Illinois and result in vehicle damage and injury, including death, to some drivers. Due to the relationship between deer populations and vehicle/deer accidents, the State of Illinois works with insurance companies when determining the states deer herd objectives. While it is controversial, deer culling has been shown to lowered the number of deer and vehicle collisions.
Property Damage
Property damage is a serious issue to Illinois farmers and homeowners. A whitetail deer can consume an average 7 pounds of food per day which equates to 2,555 pounds per year. This can be devastating to a farmer’s revenue earned from his crops.
Residential damage occurs also. Valuable trees and plants can be damaged when a whitetail has turn to them for a food source after their natural habitat has been eaten.(2)
Agricultural damage
There are a three ways in which deer are culled from these properties.
The issuing of nuisance tags to the property owner giving them the ability to cull the deer
Allowing hunters access to the property
Using sharpshooters provided by the state
Urban Damage
With urban/residential damage, sharpshooters are normally used. Only in rare instances, urban hunting zones are established.
Disease Control
This type of deer culling is used in areas where disease is threatening the herd. Control methods in this situation depends on the state. Sharpshooters and traditional hunting methods are often used together to gather information on the disease. After the information is gathered, further action is decided upon.
Deer culling and the future of the Illinois deer herd
Deer culling is an important issue and seems to be a controlling factor with the number of deer in Illinois. We have talked to many people on the subject ranging from hunters to employees of the Illinois DNR. In the near future we will be publishing articles containing interviews that give different angles and viewpoints on the subject of deer culling in Illinois.
The coming sections will include an interview with Jeff O’hare who runs the Facebook page “Stop the Illinois DNR so the Herd Can Grow”. This posts will offer very interesting insight on CWD and what is happening here in Illinois from the perspective of some Illinois hunters.
The final section will be an interview of Doug Dufford, Wildlife Disease and Invasive Species Program Manager for the IDNR. These different perspectives on the CWD and deer culling will allow for greater insight to this area!!
Duck hunting dogs, also called gun or bird dogs, are truly set apart from other dogs. Bred and raised specifically for duck hunting, these dogs have different personalities from other dogs-and fittingly, they should have different names from other dogs!
But the tricky question is: what should you name your duck hunting dog? In this article, we’ll break down 100 of the best dog hunting dog names for your hunting companion.
Check out these other articles: 10 Hunting Dogs That Don’t Shed and Strong Female Dog Names.
Whether you’re looking for pointer, golden retriever, or black lab duck hunting dog names, there are many available options for male duck hunting dogs. This list reflects the variety of names for boy duck hunting dogs, from the fierce to the friendly.
Ace – First on our list of duck dog names, this is a great name for a dog who seems adept at just about everything.
Captain – For a natural-born leader.
Trooper – For a dog who can weather any storm.
Dodger – Great for a dextrous and agile dog.
Hunter – An on-the-nose name for an excellent duck dog.
Killer – For a dog that seems extra eager about duck hunting.
Trapper – For a clever and witty hunting dog.
General – For an older dog who can lead a pack.
Commander – For a dog with a naturally commanding presence.
Marshall – Great when a dog exudes power and authority.
Leader – Ideal if your dog is ready to take the helm on a hunting trip.
Stalwart – For a dog that’s loyal to you to the end.
Speed – One of many cool duck hunting dog names for agile dogs.
Bourbon – Great if your favorite thing after a hunt is to kick back with your dog and a drink.
Bud – For a true friend-or a dog who likes to drink Bud Light.
Charger – For a dog who’s maybe a little more enthusiastic than intelligent.
Coffee – A great name for a dog who’ll be with you at the crack of dawn.
Bull – One of many great duck dog names for labs.
Scout – For a hunting dog with stamina and agility.
Sport – For a young, enthusiastic dog.
Rogue – Best suited to a dog that follows its own rules.
Ranger – Ideal for a dog that seems completely at home in the wilderness.
Glory – If you think your dog is poised for success, this name could be a good luck charm.
Bolt – For a dog that can speed off and bring back a duck in no time.
Fighter – For a dog with spunk.
Girl Duck Hunting Dog Names
There’s an equally rich cache of cute hunting dog names for female duck hunting dogs.
Dancer – Ideal for a graceful and agile dog.
Fidelity – For a dog who will always stay by your side.
Loyalty – Another name for a duck dog that is your ultimate partner.
Faith – A name for a duck hunting dog that you can trust.
Freedom – A dog that seems to belong in the wild deserves this name.
Mistress – For a dog with an air of authority.
Lady – For a dog that seems like she could be a royal.
Huntress – For a dog that is perfectly suited to her job.
Amazon – For a dog that’s commanding, authoritative, and a master hunter.
Grace – For a dog that is poised and in control.
Rose – A great name for a dog that’s beautiful as well as deadly.
Liberty – A patriotic name for a hunting dog.
Luster – For a dog with a shimmering coat.
Vixen – For a dog well-suited to the wild.
Willow – A name for a dog as sturdy as a tree.
Goldenrod – For a dog whose fur is light and shiny.
Hope – When all else seems lost, this dog will come through for you.
Rebel – For a dog who you can’t get under control.
Witch – For a dog who’s rambunctious-for ducks and you!
Enchantress – For the dog who always attracts everyone’s attention.
Bard – For a dog that’s extra vocal.
Tulip – Great for a younger, more delicate hunting dog.
Angel – For a dog that’s always on the ball-or an ironic name for a perpetual troublemaker.
Kestrel – For a dog that’s a natural-born hunter.
Glamor – A great name for a pooch with pride.
Hunting Dog Names Based on Nature
Do you want to give your duck hunting dog a name that draws on the rich symbolism of the natural world while still evoking their hunting vocation? Check out this list.
Thunder – To reflect a booming presence.
Lightning – If they can run this way and that in a flash.
Peak – For a dog that’s the pinnacle of hunting.
Cloud – For a light-colored or mysterious dog.
River – If your dog moves fluidly like running water.
Sunburst – For a bombastic and excitable dog.
Bear – For a big, furry dog.
Wolf – To remind you of their wild heritage.
Birch – To reflect the stalwart integrity of the tree.
Acorn – For a smaller dog you’re nourishing since birth.
Basil – For a dog with a little spice.
Tiger – A feline name that connotes wildness and ferocity.
Falcon – Great for a fast, graceful dog.
Thistle – Beautiful, but dangerous.
Shark – For a dog that’s out for blood-duck blood.
Hammerhead – For a dog that loves to hunt but maybe isn’t the smartest.
Sawgrass – If you’re hunting in Florida, this botanical name is perfect.
Oak – For a dog that’s big, dark, and sturdy.
Rainbow – For a dog that seems to lighten up the place wherever they go.
Typhoon – For a dog that’s an unstoppable force of nature.
Bramblepelt – Good name for a dog that’s not afraid to get down and dirty.
Briar – For a dog ready to dive into the depths to get its quarry.
Snow – Great for a pale, mysterious hunter.
Midnight – Ideal for a dog that moves in silence.
Storm – The opposite: for a dog that loves to make noise.
Names for Hunting Dogs Based on History and Culture
One of the best ways to decide on a dog name is to draw from hunters (or the hunted) in history and culture). Check out some of these:
Nimrod – Despite the connotation of stupidity, this is actually the name of a famed biblical hunter.
Elmer – After dopey-but-eager hunter Elmer Fudd.
Orion – After the constellation and the Greek mythological hunter on which it’s based.
Rexxar – Perfect for fans of the Warcraft franchise.
Daffy – An ironic name based on the Looney Tunes duck.
Herne – A ghost hunter from English folklore.
Geralt – The legendary monster hunter from the Witcher books, video games, and TV series.
Artemis – After the Greek goddess of the hunt, who notably turned the hunter Actaeon into a stag and had her dogs hunt him.
Diana – Named after the Roman counterpart to Artemis.
Robin – After the bird and folkloric bowman Robin Hood, or the DC Comics superhero Robin.
Pan – After the Greek god of wilderness and hunters.
Hubertus – After the patron saint of hunters.
Thor – After the superhero and Norse mythological powerhouse.
Bloodsport – The gun-toting hero of The Suicide Squad.
Daisy – Another ironic name: Daisy Duck.
Donald – Based on Disney’s Donald Duck. Especially great if you aren’t a particular fan of Disney or have a sense of humor.
Scrooge – Based on the character from Disney comics and DuckTales.
Huey – The first of three brothers in DuckTales.
Dewey – The blue-hat-wearing brother in DuckTales.
Louie – The DuckTales brother who rocks a green outfit.
Davy – Based on the folk hero and real-life man Davy Crocket.
Teddy – Based on American president and naturalist Theodore Roosevelt.
Mighty – After the film The Mighty Ducks and the corresponding hockey team.
Wolverine – After Marvel Comics’ famous wildman superhero.
Lon – Named after Lon Chaney, star of The Wolfman.
Conclusion for Duck Hunting Dog Names
If your dog is going to be a duck hunter, you’ll want to give them an appropriate name. Remember to keep their name short, easy to pronounce, and not similar to any of your family. We hope you enjoyed our list of the best duck hunting dog names and found something for your puppy!
Have you been looking for the best hunting dogs with their specialty? Aside from being a great companion, some breeds are also suitable for hunting. However, not all pooches are ideal for such activities. Aside from your hunting gear, let’s take a look at 20 animal breeds that are always ready to come with you on your next hunting adventure.
Pets for hunting are capable of chasing other species, but it is essential that you pick the right breed that focuses primarily on the animal that you want to hunt. So we’ve listed down some of the best specialized hunting dogs in the hunting world. From small to big game hunting, indeed, there’s a pet that would match your game.
Hunting is now a sport for most people. Some hunters bring their furry pals, which makes it one of their key assets in capturing their prey. Just like humans, pets also have specialties when it comes to hunting. Pooches just need some experiences to unleash its full potential and use these natural talents.
Some breeds are good at catching flying prey, and some are even better at chasing down the wildest animals in hunting. It leads us to the question, what are the best hunting dogs with their specialty? When properly trained, dogs are far more efficient and capable hunters than humans because of their inherent strength, accurate sense of smell, and exceptional hearing abilities.
1. Best Rabbit Hunting Dogs: Beagle
If you love hunting rabbits, Beagles are your best companion. Aside from being an excellent homebody, these breeds are also great in picking up rabbit scents. Moreover, it is also the best canine for chasing bunnies in circles so that you can get a better shot.
For roughly 200 years now, tri-colored Beagles have been reliable when it comes to small game hunting. It may not be obvious, but this breed has one of the best noses in the canine world when it comes to scenting abilities.
The combination of a superior sense of smell, agility, and speed, Beagles are a good candidate for hunting rabbits. Moreover, it also excels in detection due to its keen sense of smell. It may sound like a service dog, but you can also expect a friendly demeanor. In fact, it belongs to the small-size breeds. Hence, you don’t need a large house or yard to give it a home.
Beagles are the best rabbit hunting dogs.
2. Best Duck Hunting Dogs: Labrador Retriever
Labradors have physical attributes that are suitable for cold-water retrieving. Hence, they can help you hunt ducks and other water prey in the water, making it the best all-around waterfowl dog. From the name itself, these dog breeds love water exercises and activities, which include swimming and retrieving. Moreover, Labradors are the most intelligent of all retrievers because they mature faster.
Aside from being smart, this dog breed also has a double coat for warmth and webbed feet for water repellency. It also has a muscled body and thick otter tail for better maneuverability in the water. So, these traits will allow pet owners to train this kind of pet even at younger ages. When it comes to hunting, Labradors can handle the learning curve of hand signals, and whistles, which are essential whenever you are close to your target species.
Still, Labrador Retrievers are also a great family dog. Physically strong outside, but these pets also have friendliness and loyalty to its family. In fact, this dog breed is the most registered dog in America. After you hunt all day, Labradors will always come home and most likely play with children.
3. Best Fox Hunting Dogs: American Foxhound
From the name itself, American Foxhounds are your best fox hunting dogs. These are perfect hunting animals because of its enthusiasm that’s going to chase down everything you’re asking them to do.
Unlike the first two breeds, American foxhounds are specifically bred for hunting. Way back to its rich history of loyalty and capability, you can always rely on these dogs when it comes to hunting, tracking, and more.
At first glimpse, it may look like a Beagle until you realize that that latter is taller and leaner. Thanks to its athletic built, it is one of the most hard-working canines that you will see when it comes to hunting. Moreover, you can maintain it quickly as it only requires little grooming. You may think that it is a very wild dog breed since it loves hunting foxes, but these pooches are also great family dogs and loving companions.
4. Best Land Bird Hunting Dogs: Golden Retriever
Here are other best hunting dogs with their specialty, which is excellent in chasing land birds. It is one of the most popular dog breeds in the United States today due to its friendliness and loyalty. Aside from being a companion pet, these breeds also love to hunt. The beautiful and fierce body built is suitable for hanging out in the sub-urban and doing some fun active sports.
High stamina, extremely intelligent, and physically healthy – these are the traits that make Golden Retrievers excellent in physical sports, especially bird hunting. Moreover, it also has a happy disposition that’s why pet owners love adopting one in their homes. Golden Retrievers will hunt down ducks or small birds and smile all the way through.
You won’t have any problems in training, plus these pooches are fun for the whole family. These dogs could be both a man’s best friend and one of the best hunting breeds that you can find. After all, these breeds are retrievers, known for catching birds and returning them to the hunter without damage.
Golden Retrievers are the best land bird hunting dogs.
5. Best Quail Hunting Dogs: Pointer
Do you want more best hunting dogs with their specialty? The ultimate pooch above all the gun breeds – the slick, fast, and bird-obsessed Pointer will not stop until it gets its bird prey. This dog can work on the hardest terrain just to give you your target.
Don’t worry about staying cool because the thin coat allows them to get through the heat from the sun. Moreover, it has a perpetual endurance, which is suitable for all-day hunting. Still, make sure to bring enough water for your furry hunter.
Pointers have been dominating the field of bird hunting for decades. You can always rely on fast and hard work. Moreover, these dogs will never leave you because they have the willingness to lock and hold on for as long as needed. If you look for them, you can even find Pointers are usually high-energy pets that are suitable for hunting. When trained properly to behave, this dog breed is also ideal as family dogs.
6. Best Racoon Hunting Dogs: Coonhound
If you have been dealing with raccoons, let these sharp-nosed hunters get rid of the pests for you. Coonhounds have the instinct to catch raccoons as well as other prey that you want to find while hunting.
It comes from several variations like Bluetick, Black & Tan, Redbone, American English, and Treeing Walker, but they all came from one family. An ancestry of excellent hunting dogs. Of all Coonhounds, Treeing Walker has the most remarkable tenacity and intelligence.
Regardless, just like Retrievers, Coonhounds consist of dog breeds that are supremely tough with incredible stamina. Moreover, this pet also has excellent noses. In fact, its ancestors have been famous for pursuing cougars and mountain lions. If you’re a hunter who stays outdoors all day long, these are the trains of a dog companion that you must bring with you when it comes to massive hunting games.
7. Best Squirrel Hunting Dogs: Mountain Cur
Still haven’t found the best hunting dogs with their specialty? There are many ways to hunt squirrels. Either you catch them on the spot by walking through the forest while sniping, or stalk until you find the right timing to catch it off guard.
Another way and the best method is to use Mountain Cur dogs to locate, mark, and help you take a shot. Almost every pet may enjoy hunting squirrels, but Mountain Curs are the most special breeds to do this task with enthusiasm.
However, since 1998, UKC hasn’t registered these dog breeds. Still, it has been one of the most all-around dogs used for hunting and protection. With the mixed ancestry of Hounds that have great noses and voices, and Terriers with added tenacity – this is a dog breed for all purposes in the frontier of the wilderness.
Mountain Curs are the best squirrel hunting dogs.
8. Best Deer Hunting Dogs: American Foxhound
Originated in Maryland and Virginia, here’s the best dog for catching deer. It has all the characteristics required to run deer successfully. From energy, high stamina, excellent sense of smell, to enthusiastic natural hunting attitude – the American Foxhound is everything you need as a hunting companion.
Unlike many other scent hounds, American Foxhounds are “running” hounds, as opposed to “treeing” hounds. It means that these breeds love to hunt a lot more and be a part of the process than the outcome of the hunt.
American foxhounds are going to sprint through troubles to catch a deer or a fox. It can put reluctant deer on their feet and keep them going better than many other common breeds, such as the shorter-legged beagle.
9. Best Sea Duck Hunting Dogs: Chesapeake Bay Retriever
If you love sea duck hunting, Chesapeake Bay Retrievers are the only embodiment of real American hunters. This hard-working and utilitarian dog breed can play the cold and rough waters. Moreover, it has a more solid built compared to Labradors
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The thick and oily coats help in repelling cold temperatures while the webbed feet are suitable for swimming. Whether the target sear duck is on icy or running water, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever will always find a way to hunt it down.
This pet may be a slower-maturing dog, but it can be tricky as you teach and train new tricks. However, you must train these pooches with authority without getting too physical. During the old times, Chessies’ job was to protect gear, guns, and boats at the docks as the hunters rested in waterfront saloons. Slowly, the role evolved to being a waterfowl-hunting retriever even in the harshest conditions.
10. Best Pheasant Hunting Dogs: English Springer Spaniel
If pheasants are your thing for hunting, English Springer Spaniel has the stamina to cover ground all day long and an excellent sense of smell to point the locations of the target.
Moreover, it can definitely catch up with the run-and-gun nature of the pheasant hunting game. Springers may be smaller than Labradors, but it can cover up the whole ground due to its high energy levels.
When it comes to retrieving instincts, you wouldn’t have any problems as these breeds have more reliable senses. Even just by picking up scents, springers have a pleasant temperament and are loyal to their owners.
English Springer Spaniels are the best pheasant hunting dogs.
11. Best Small Hunting Game Dogs: Irish Setter
Irish Setters are just like their English counterparts that are always ready to hunt alongside you day and night. However, these dog breeds require relatively high maintenance for its thick, beautiful, and luxurious coat.
From necessary fetching skills to hunting birds, these pets are smart, determined, resourceful, and highly energetic. Moreover, after a day of hunting, it changes its personality to a friendly, loving, and playful companion.
For over 200 years, this breed has been popular to all hunters and even sportspeople. Unlike Labradors, Irish Settles can be a bit boisterous, which means you may need patience in training. The process of learning is challenging for this dog, but it will serve you excellently in the bush while hunting. With those natural trains in hunting, Irish Setters are suitable small hunting games.
12. Best Wild Boar Hunting Dogs: Bloodhound
Unique and tough – these are the top qualities of a Bloodhound. It has superb investigative skills, which makes it suitable for tracking the scent of your target. Some law enforcement agencies use Bloodhounds to assist them in looking for missing persons. For this reason, pet breeders call it the Sherlock Holmes of the canine world.
These dogs will live up to your expectations due to unparalleled tracking abilities, which makes them excellent hunting dogs. Initially bred for big game hunting and other potential challenging outdoor games. It may seem too smart, but Bloodhounds are also a great companion both on and off the hunting game. The nickname suggests like it is a ruthless hunter, but these breeds are friendly, loyal, and playful towards its owners.
Whether you’re hunting for wild boar or deer, Bloodhounds are one of the best companions. However, take note that some are stubborn to follow tricks. So, it is essential to establish authority in the beginning. Moreover, there may be some instances that it will give other dog breeds of the same sex due to its strong personality.
13. Best Upland Birds Hunting Dogs: Weimaraner
Is there a dog that can help you track upland birds? Definitely, and Weimaraners are one of the best bird hunting dogs. It is one of the most unique and elegant breeds in the sporting group. These pups have their roots in Germany, where they were initially bred to hunt anything – from upland birds to bears. These breeds are energetic, but may not be too evident due to its ungracefully thin and tall appearance. Their lean legs make them look awkward at first glance, but it also helps the Weimaraners to be quicker and calmer.
Due to its thin built, expect extreme athleticism, unmatched intelligence, and incredible senses. Moreover, it requires very little maintenance when it comes to grooming the coat. These are the traits, which are perfect for hunting pheasant, quail, or other highlands bird species.
Weimaraners may look ferocious, which they are when it comes to hunting, but this pet bonds well with children and the whole family. Regardless, it has a hunting pedigree that is also suitable for big games in tracing predators like wolves. However, it requires lots of training in discipline and exercise because it can be loafing.
Weimaraners are the best upland birds hunting dogs.
14. Best Grouse Hunting Dogs: English Setter
When it comes to grouse hunting dogs, English Setters have a keen nose to track the scent of spooky birds without scaring it away. At first look, you may think that it is a Dalmatian because of its black spots, and white fur.
However, the thick, long coat and the shape of the face make it different. Setters are famous for propensity to work closely with you during a hunting game. It will stay in sight to hold a point just to give you the best position in taking a shot.
Chasing a grouse can be a challenge, so you must ensure that your dog is comfortable with tracking, retrieving, and force fetches commands. Like other dogs that are popular in hunting, the English setters have two distinct lines: verification and ground. It means this breed excels well in tracking the prey and even chasing it after the hunter made the shot. Due to its popularity even in the past, the first dog registered with the American Kennel Club was an English Setter, named Adonis.
15. Best Pig Hunting Dogs: American Pitbull Terrier
For hunting wild boar and pigs in the forest, American Pitbull Terriers can accompany you. In early history, most farmers and ranchers found one of the most versatile canines. It has the built of a Pitbull and the intelligence of a Terrier.
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These two primary traits make it suitable for forest hunting games. In some countries, they also use it as rescue and police dogs. When trained properly, it can perform narcotics and explosives detection, and border patrol dogs. In competitive dog athletics, the American Pitbull Terriers will prevail in endurance, agility, and weight pulling.
Experimental mating between Bulldogs and terriers started in England, Scotland, and Ireland in the 19th century. The goal was to cross the athleticism of Terriers with the power of Bulldogs. Foreigners eventually brought the bull-and-terrier crosses to the United States. Since then, it has been famous to most ranchers and farmers when it comes to driving livestock and hunting while being a dedicated family companion. The American Staffordshire Terrier and the American Pitbull Terrier came from the same ancestry, but different names are depending on the location of the dog clubs.
16. Best Bird Hunting Dogs: Boykin Spaniel
Boykin Spaniel is a natural when it comes to hunting, especially for birds because it excels well when it comes to flushing and retrieving. The best trait of this breed is intelligence, which makes the training a lot easier.
Moreover, the uncompromising determination when hunting will give you an advantage when tracking down your prey. Aside from bird hunting, this dog also performs well in dense brush and wetlands, which makes it ideal for shooting waterfowls like ducks.
Outside the context of hunting, a Boykin Spaniel is an excellent pet that is loving and easy-going. However, take note that it requires more maintenance due to its long and relatively wavy fur. Boykin Spaniel originated in South Carolina at the beginning of the 20th century. These uncommon best hunting dogs are famous for serious hunters. Therefore, it climbed up the rankings on hunting dog charts all over online hunting dog resources.
Boykin Spaniels are the best bird hunting dogs.
17. Best All-Around Hunting Dogs: Brittany Dog
Brittany Dogs are almost similar to Setters, which are incredibly versatile and talented when it comes to hunting. Whether your game includes flushing, retrieving, pointing, and even agility, this dog breed is an excellent companion. Just like its beautiful name, these dogs are exceptionally handsome or charming with just the right amount of fur. Hence, it requires minimal maintenance when it comes to grooming.
Whether for hunting, adventure, and companion at home, Brittany dogs are loyal and smart. Originated in France in the 1800s, these breeds are originally for pointing and retrieving. It is a cross of distinct Spanish and English setters, resulting in a quick and curious species.
Apart from being merely adorable, loveable, and friendly family dogs, Brittanies are one of the best hunting pets. However, take note that you need to be physically ready when owning this pet because it requires a lot of exercise. Otherwise, it may become restless without activities.
18. Best Rabbit Hunting Dogs: Jack Russel Terrier
Developed in England some 200 years ago, this breed was originally for hunting foxes. In hunting, never belittle small breeds. Jack Russel Terrier is an energetic breed that will help you point the location of your target rabbits. Once properly trained, it is one of the smartest pets for small game. It can do more than flushing and hunting squirmy little species.
If you love hunting rabbits, you should put Jack Russell close to the top of your list. As long as you can reduce their energy in the morning, you won’t get disappointed by this breed.
Even at home or on the game trail, it is bright and extremely loving. Charming, affectionate, lively, and independent, these are the traits that you will love about this dog.
19. Best Turkey Hunting Dogs: Appalachian Turkey Dogs
Let’s continue our list of the best hunting dogs with their specialties. When it comes to hunting turkeys, it is essential that you have a companion that is a big runner while tracking the scent through thin air.
In this case, Appalachian Turkey Dogs are also a popular choice for many turkey hunters. It is a combination of Setters, Plott Hounds, and Pointers.
However, AKC does not recognize such dogs. Still, it has a stylish appearance with excellent stamina, fast speed, and range. Moreover, it has the desire to chase, track, and bark as loud as it could, which are suitable for driving prey. Appalachian Turkey Dogs fill a hunting specialty that requires specific attributes derived from its purebred roots.
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20. Best Hog Hunting Dogs: Dogo Argentino
This cute and extra special breed is stunning from its muscular built to its unique face. Bigger, stronger, and more agile than a Pitbull, Dogo Argentinos have been bred specifically for big-game hunting. Originating in South America, Dogos are also the best hunting dog even during a hot climate and rough terrains.
The well-muscled body of this breed and the thin white coat make it look so beautiful. The intimidating game face look is so fierce whenever this dog goes into hunting.
However, it is still a friendly and loyal companion at home. Just make sure to train it to avoid displaying its aggressiveness towards other people and even other dog breeds.
The Best Hunting Dogs – FAQ
Even in the old days, people have been hunting other species with the assistance of their dogs. However, since not all breeds are suitable for this activity, make sure that you come with the best hunting dogs with their specialty on our list. Depending on the species that you want to catch, some dogs have their unique strengths while others are suitable for all-around hunting games. Finally, let us answer some of the common questions about the best hunting pet companions.
What is the Most Versatile Hunting Dog?
Brittany Dogs are one of the most versatile hunting dogs that are adaptable and flexible to various tasks whenever on the field. From pointing, flushing, to retrieving, this dog breed loves to be a part of every process in catching prey and even join some agility contests. Moreover, it can track down various species from small to large sizes. Whether hunting companions or at home buddies, Brittanys are loyal and intelligent for as long as you train in properly.
We understand that you’re probably looking with the best hunting dogs with their specialty. Brittanies are exceptionally unique and beautiful. It also has thin coats that match the muscular built that requires little maintenance when it comes to grooming. However, this pet needs a lot of exercise. Otherwise, it will become restless. So, whether you go hunting or not, make sure that you do some physical activities at least 30 minutes to one hour every day.
What is the Best Coon Hunting Dog?
Black and Tan Coonhounds are the best coon hunting dog. Judging from its name, it has a great nose to the ground for tracking its prey and barks up when hunted. With its large bone structure, it can move swiftly with rhythmic strides, which is suitable for any kind of hunting game. Moreover, it has impressive stamina that is excellent for running. In fact, it can go for miles and overcome the thick bushes of any forest, and even cross the river.
This canine is recognizable with its distinctive size and color. Moreover, it is relatively larger compared to other coon hunting dogs of the same family tree. As a home buddy, Black and Tan Coonhounds are independent and smart. It may also be playful and gentle towards children. Find out more about the best hunting dog with their specialty for every game.
What is the Best Gun Dog Breed?
Retrievers and Pointers are some of the best gun dog breeds of all time. Both pets have a beautiful appearance and spooky nose to track their prey. These breeds are both smart and have the physical strength to take on any hunting adventures. From its thick otter tail, muscled body, to fierce space, these trains will allow pet owners to train this kind of pet even at younger ages.
Moreover, these breeds have been dominating the game of gun dog hunting for decades now. You can always rely on its fast and hard work because it is always willing to lock and hold whenever needed.
What is the Best Rabbit Hunting Dog?
If you enjoy scavenging rabbits, you should consider Jack Russell dogs. Developed in England about 200 years ago, this breed was originally for hunting foxes. It is energetic and will help you determine the location of your target rabbits. It could be one of the smartest small game pets. As long as you consume their energy every day, you won’t be disappointed by this breed. It’s intelligent and extremely affectionate even at home or on the game routes.
Different types of hunting benefit from their most suited breed. Now you can purchase a hunting breed with confidence and know they will be your best friend and the ideal hunting companion.
In the search for Forrest Fenn’s million dollar treasure chest, Colorado doesn’t get as much attention as the state of New Mexico or the areas surrounding Yellowstone National Park. However, I have considered that Colorado could hold a major clue for understanding the line in the treasure poem of ‘Put in below the home of Brown’. Now I don’t mean to suggest I think it is hidden there (although it could be), but just that one meaning for home of Brown could originate from there.
It is only a possibility. There are numerous times when thinking about the lines of poems I apply different meanings to them. I don’t ever want to rule out options, and never want to insist on any one line to definitely mean only one thing; no matter how much I like it. As it has been said over and over again, until you hold the chest, it is all speculation. So the following is merely that, a possible meaning for ‘home of Brown’ that I like to keep in mind.
Forrest Fenn has said his poem, if followed precisely, will lead someone to his hidden treasure. The poem acts like a map, and so once understood, a person will be able to follow the stanza’s instructions and go right to the secreted location. In thinking about this, and wondering how Forrest might give ‘precise’ enough directions within his poem, I have come up with ways on how this could be done.
One approach is by equating a distance with something else. For example, if I wanted to give the direction of, ‘walk six feet’, I might say something like ‘leave behind the distance of the dead’. Unless they are the walking dead, they should be buried about six feet and so no matter how bad an example as that is, it is a way to I could cryptically say, ‘walk six feet.’….lol….
I feel there is a similar (albeit better) possibility in the poem, and it involves the line ‘Put in below home of Brown’. I have thought the line might be Forrest’s way of cryptically saying ‘go about one mile.’
When researching the many possible meanings for ‘Brown’, the name of Molly Brown comes up as a reasonable option. Molly Brown, famously known for surviving the sinking of the Titanic, lived in both Leadville, and Denver, Colorado, during her life. And although she was born in Missouri, she spent much of her time in Colorado. Today, there is the Molly Brown House Museum located in Denver and I know many searchers have mentioned this as an option for the home of Brown.
I have considered, however, that if Brown refers to Molly Brown, and since Denver (home of Brown) is known as the ‘mile high city’ that one further interpretation for ‘put in below the home of Brown’ could be put in below ‘a mile’. Denver=a mile/5280ft=home of Brown.
So, for me, when ‘beginning where warm waters halt and take it in the canyon down, not far but too far to walk, put in below the home of Brown, I am going to put in around the mile marker and at least check if from there it’s no place for the meek….
The intention and interpretation for ‘home of Brown’ may not be to find a particular place to put in below, but be a precise distance clue. Many searchers have liked ‘spots’ and have said ‘but I couldn’t find any ‘home of Brown’ or ‘there wasn’t a home of Brown nearby’. But the above interpretation for ‘home of Brown’ fits for any place a searcher is looking. It is not saying to ‘find the home of Brown to put in below’, it could be interpreted as saying, ‘walk one mile’. Is this why some searchers were known to have solved the first two clues and then went right past all others, because they were trying to ‘find a home of Brown’ when there isn’t one on site?
Best of luck in whatever you seek….
Other articles on possible interpretations of ‘put in below the home of Brown’:
Forrest Fenn’s Possible Treasure Location: Home of Brown
Forrest Fenn’s Poem Line: Put in below the Home of Brown
Though typically thought of as a fairly modern piece of gear, automatic knives actually date back to the mid-1700s, when smiths in Europe first began equipping flintlock and coach guns with folding spike bayonets. Over the next century, this design would evolve into the earliest handheld switchblades, ultimately kicking off the auto knife segment that continues booming today with an ever-growing array of increasingly capable models.
And while the options in this space were once fairly limited, it’s hugely grown in popularity over the last decade or two, becoming the go-to option for legions of EDC enthusiasts. However, with literally hundreds of available offerings to choose from, it can be difficult honing in on the standout models that objectively tower over the rest. So, with this in mind, we’ve thoroughly scoured the segment to deliver this guide to the best automatic knives you can buy, counting down our picks for the finest available options on the market, while also touching on what factors to consider when shopping.
While automatic models share a great many traits with regular, manually-deployed knives, there is still a small handful of finer points that are crucial to explore when shopping in this area. In an effort to simplify your search, we’ve pieced together this condensed guide on the five most pivotal factors to review before pulling the trigger on your purchase.
Materials & Construction: No matter what type of knife it is that you’re shopping for, overall quality, durability, and performance will largely boil down to the materials used to construct it, with automatic models being far from an exception. As such, when shopping for an auto, it’s imperative to review the material(s) being utilized to craft the model’s handle (and/or frame), as well as the type of steel that the blade is composed of.
Action & Deployment: Just like with normal, manually-opened knives, one major factor that hugely separates truly premium auto models from cheap imitators is the knife’s deployment and action. Whether this is of the slide, switch, or push-button variety, these more high-end autos tend to feature powerful spring mechanisms and equally robust locking mechanisms. It’s also worth checking out the particular type of deployment a knife is using, as there are automatic folding knives as well as spring-loaded OTF — or “out the front” — models.
Aesthetic Design: Just like with their manually-deployed counterparts, automatic knives are produced in an enormous variety of different shapes, sizes, and styles. This means that whether you’re a hardcore minimalist, a fan of busy, involved designs, or anywhere in between, there will almost certainly be an auto model that jives with your personal aesthetic taste. A great many of these knives are also produced in a myriad of different constructions and/or finishes.
Craftsmanship & Quality: Because automatic knives tend to be more expensive, they’re often embraced and produced by more premium knife makers. In addition to an auto knife’s blade and handle constructions, locking mechanism, and deployment, the overall quality of execution and craftsmanship on display can also wildly vary, and as such is another area that distinguishes top-shelf knives from the more budget-friendly blades on the market. Unsurprisingly, with such high levels of quality and fit and finish, quite a few of the more premium automatic knives on the market come backed by generous — often lifetime — warranties.
Legality: As convenient as automatic knives are, they’re unfortunately illegal to carry in some regions — a fact that’s largely owed to the traditional association between criminals and switchblades. There are also locales with specific laws regulating what type or size of automatic knife can be carried, such as California which limits the blade length on legal auto models to two inches or less. And, while the simple possession of an illegal auto knife is no more than a misdemeanor in most states, it can still result in exorbitant fines and even jail time, making the legality of any auto knife that you’re considering well worth looking into prior to making your purchase.
Best CA-Legal Auto: Böker’s aptly-named Stubby Strike is a compact, California-legal auto model with a stout, 1.875″ drop point blade that’s crafted from D2 steel before being treated to a black stonewashed finish. Equipped with a righthand side, deep-carry tip-up pocket clip, this knife features a set of stainless steel liners adorned in OD green texture-coated aluminum scales and is armed with a push-button locking mechanism. Measuring 5.325” when open, the Stubby Strike Auto tips the scales at just 3.22oz.
Kershaw Launch 1
Photo: Blade HQ
Best Affordable Auto: Released in 2015, the Launch 1 has long been one of Kershaw’s most popular — and thoroughly capable — everyday carry knives. The auto model features a black anodized aluminum handle with a Bullseye red push button opener that’s mated to a black stonewashed drop point item made from CPM 154 blade steel. Unfortunately, due to its 3.375” blade length, the Launch 1 can’t legally be carried in some regions, including California, as well as the UK, where automatic knives are banned outright.
SOG Knives SOG-TAC AU Compact
Photo: Blade HQ
Best Tactical Auto: A tactical powerhouse that lends itself extremely well to everyday carry, SOG Knives’ SOG-TAC AU Compact is a California-legal automatic that’s constructed around a stainless steel frame sandwiched between a set of textured black aluminum scales. Outfitted with a reversible, tip-up deep-carry pocket clip and a safety-equipped automatic version of SOG’s proprietary XR locking mechanism, SOG-TAC AU Compact’s thumb-slide deploys a special cryogenically heat-treated 3.00” D2 tool steel tanto blade that’s fortified via a black titanium nitride coating — and offered in a number of different blade shapes that are available in plain-edged, serrated, or partially serrated variants.
Buck 110 Auto Knife
Photo: Buck Knives
Best Vintage-Styled Auto: Originally designed by Al Buck in 1963 before being released the following year, Buck Knives’ 110 Folding Hunter has unequivocally been the American heritage brand’s most iconic model for the nearly six decades that it’s been in production. More recently, the Idaho-based outfit opted to bestow the 110 with the auto treatment, arming it with a push-button auto-deployment in its otherwise unchanged handle — which on this version of the 110 Auto is crafted from top-shelf Crelicam Ebony wood and paired with a 420HC stainless steel clip point blade with a satin finish. Made in America, this knife is also sold with an included leather friction-fit sheath.
Gerber Auto 06
Photo: Blade HQ
Best Self-Defense Auto: The Gerber 06 is a well-built EDC-friendly automatic knife that’s constructed around a handle that’s been machined from a solid piece of aluminum billet into an ultra-ergonomic shape that provides absolutely stellar grip — whether held normally or in a reserve grip. Add to that a beefy razor-sharp 3.625″ (drop point or tanto) blade made from premium CPM S30V, and you’ve not only got an amazing tactically-inspired everyday carry knife, but you also have one of the best auto-deployed fighting knives on the market (for under the $300 mark). A handgun-style safety switch ensures that accidental deployments won’t occur either.
Spyderco Autonomy 2
Photo: Blade HQ
Editor’s Pick: The second-generation Spyderco Autonomy is an absolutely incredible everyday carry knife that, despite the addition of an automatic blade deployment setup, retains everything that EDC enthusiasts have come to love about the Colorado-based company’s blades. This includes a beefier, 3.50” version of Spyderco’s unique drop point blade shape — which is made from ultra-corrosion-resistant, nitrogen-based LC200N rustproof blade steel — that’s mated to a G-10 handle equipped with an auto version of the firm’s signature compression lock. And, despite no longer being deployed manually, the Autonomy 2’s blade still sports a smaller version of Spyderco’s instantly-recognizable circular thumb opening — another classic Spyderco design hallmark present on this knife.
Benchmade 9400 Auto Osborne
Photo: Blade HQ
Best Overall EDC Auto: Since being introduced at the Blade Show in 2000, the utterly game-changing Osborne has not only been one of the most sought-after and trusted Benchmade knives, but it’s also unequivocally one of the all-around very best everyday carry knives ever conceived. Spurred on by the 940’s immense popularity, in May of 2020, some 20 years after the original Osborne debuted, the Oregon City outfit released an automatic version of the much-beloved EDC folder, retaining the normal variant’s green-anodized aluminum handle and 3.40” CPM S30V reverse tanto blade, however, Benchmade’s patented AXIS locking mechanism has been jettisoned in favor of a push-button deployment setup. Interestingly, the auto-spec Osborne actually weighs 0.25oz less than the manually-opening version.
Emerson Knives Bullshark
Photo: Emerson Knives
Best American-Made Auto: In late 2020, Emerson Knives unveiled its very first automatic model in the American knife maker’s more than quarter-century-long history with the Bullshark. Legal to carry in Emerson’s home state of California, the Bullshark is a surprisingly capable and utilitarian knife for packing such small dimensions, with the 4oz auto measuring just 5.30” when open. The Bullshark’s hard-anodized black aluminum handle is linked to an auto push-button-deployed 1.90” 154CM blade that’s 0.125” thick and rated between 57 and 59 on the Rockwell scale.
Microtech Ultratech
Photo: Blade HQ
Best Auto OTF: Since the brand’s inception in 1994, Microtech Knives has established itself as one of, if not the single finest producer of tactical auto and OTF knives, as evidenced by the North Carolina company’s blades being the go-to choice for countless elite military operators — as well as being the knife of choice for none other than John Wick, who carries a UTX-70-spec of the Microtech Ultratech on screen, along with one of the brand’s Combat Troodon models. Engineered to withstand a lifetime of hard use in hostile conditions — meaning it’s more than robust enough to stand up to regular EDC duties — the Ultratech S/E (seen here) features a contoured and jimped black-anodized aluminum handle with a milled thumb-slide that rapidly deploys this knife’s blade — a 3.44” drop point item crafted from ultra-premium Böhler M390 steel.
Discover the ultimate air gun capable of propelling pellets at an astonishing 3000 fps! Unleash unrivaled power and precision with this cutting-edge air rifle, designed to deliver unparalleled performance. Prepare to experience a whole new level of shooting excellence as you delve into the world of high-velocity pellet propulsion.
What air gun pushes a pellet 3000 fps?
When it comes to air guns, achieving high velocities is a sought-after feature for many enthusiasts. One of the air guns that is capable of pushing a pellet at an impressive speed of 3000 feet per second (fps) is the Benjamin Bulldog.357. This powerful air rifle has gained popularity for its exceptional velocity and accuracy, making it a favorite among hunters and competitive shooters alike.
The Benjamin Bulldog.357 utilizes pre-charged pneumatic (PCP) technology, allowing it to generate immense power with each shot. Equipped with a large air reservoir and a regulated system, this air gun can deliver consistent high velocities. Additionally, it features a top-loading rotary magazine that holds up to five rounds, providing quick follow-up shots without compromising performance.
With its ability to propel pellets at 3000 fps, the Benjamin Bulldog.357 offers users an incredible level of kinetic energy and range. Whether used for hunting small game or target shooting, this air gun’s impressive velocity ensures accurate shot placement and increased effectiveness. However, it is important to note that achieving such speeds requires proper ammunition selection and adherence to safety guidelines to ensure responsible shooting practices.
In conclusion, various air guns have the capability to propel a pellet at speeds of up to 3000 fps. The selection of an appropriate air gun depends on factors such as caliber, power source, and intended use. It is important for individuals to research and consider their specific needs before choosing an air gun for optimal performance and safety.
If you’ve ever wanted to try a lion’s mane mushroom you’d be hard-pressed to find one at the local supermarket. Yet, these unusual mushrooms are tasty and healthy, and there are numerous health benefits from consuming them.
If you’d like to learn how to grow these mushrooms yourself, then keep on reading. We’re covering their characteristics, health benefits, storage, and step-by-step instructions for cultivating lion’s mane mushrooms indoors and on logs.
The lion’s mane mushroom (also known as Hericium Erinaceus) is a white, pom-pom-like fungus that resembles the mane of a lion.
Individual mushrooms can grow to be fairly big, weighing as much as half a kilogramme. The spines, or “teeth,” begin short but become longer with age. The mushroom is spongy and semi-hollow at times.
These unusual-looking mushrooms are found on rotting hardwood trees and logs throughout the northern hemisphere and are native to Asia, Europe, and North America.
Lion’s mane mushrooms are edible as well as medicinal, with a variety of potential health benefits. These potential benefits include protection against dementia, protection against stomach ulcers, reduced risk of heart disease, diabetes symptom management, and many more.
It’s pretty much impossible to buy fresh lion’s mane mushrooms in the UK due to the fact that it’s a relatively unknown species. Your best bet is to find a specialist farmer, or, the easier option, is to grow this species of mushroom yourself.
Is Lion’s Mane Mushroom Easy to Grow?
Lion’s mane is a reasonably simple mushroom to cultivate, but it can be a challenge for novices because the mycelium takes longer to develop than other mushrooms, creating an increased risk of contamination. It can also be challenging for first time growers to determine whether the lion’s mane is fully colonised and ready to produce fruit.
If you’re new to mushroom growing, we suggest you should get some hands-on experience first. The easiest way to practise mushroom cultivation is by growing your own! Oyster mushrooms are a great place to start. Alternatively, you can use a Lion’s Mane Mushroom Growing Kit if you’re keen to try lion’s mane at home without the hassle of growing your own from scratch!
Growing in bags vs on logs
The two most popular methods of growing lion’s mane mushrooms are in bags or on logs. They both have their positives and negatives, but the answer to the best way to grow lion’s mane mushrooms is dependent on your experience and the harvest time you are hoping for.
If you’re growing lion’s mane on logs, you should expect to harvest your first batch in one to two years following inoculation. You can harvest lion’s mane mushrooms from a single log for up to six years after they begin to grow. It’s important to note growing mushrooms on logs generally requires more effort and resources to set up, but are relatively easy to maintain during incubation.
It takes far less time to grow lion’s mane indoors in a bag or container. The lion’s mane mushroom can be harvested in about 6 to 8 weeks after inoculating your substrate. Growing in bags is debatably the easier option if you are just starting out, but if you already have some growing experience under your belt then consider when you want your mushrooms to be harvestable.
It’s worth noting that bags can be used to grow mushrooms indoors, whereas logs have to be grown outdoors.
How to Grow Lion’s Mane Mushrooms Indoors
Below we’ve put together a step-by-step tutorial to help you grow lion’s mane mushrooms in a bag or container.
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Step 1. Preparing Your Supplies & Growing Space
It’s essential that you keep your work environment clean and sterile during the inoculation procedure. When you have spent time preparing your mushrooms, the last thing you want to do is introduce competitive bacteria into your substrate that could outcompete your spawn. Before you start, wipe everything down with isopropyl alcohol or another cleaning solution.
After you have cleaned your workplace, you need to assemble all the equipment and supplies needed.
There are several ways you can choose to grow Lion’s Mane mushrooms but growers typically opt to begin the process of substrate preparation, inoculation and incubation within a mushroom growing bag. This makes life a lot easier when handling aspects like sterilisation and pasteurisation too.
From there, it is really a preference in growing technique. Some growers prefer to keep their Lion’s Mane growing from the bag, some prefer to use jars, others choose fruiting chambers. The key considerations are ensuring that the substrate has successfully been inoculated and colonised and that the eventual growing environment has sufficient humidity.
Some supplies we recommend
A Pressure cooker
Kitchen Scales
Measuring cups
Lion’s mane grain spawn
Mushroom growing bags or buckets
Hardwood pellets
Soy Hulls
Step 2. Preparing Your Mushroom Substrate
Preparing your mushroom substrate correctly is a critical step in the cultivation of any mushroom. It is where most new growers experience problems, as this is where bacteria or competing organisms are first introduced. This is especially true in the case of Lion’s mane mushrooms as the fungus takes much longer to develop than other commonly cultivated mushrooms. As a result, there is a often a much greater window of time for contamination to occur.
There are several types of substrate you could opt for when growing Lion’s Mane mushrooms. In this guide, we’ll be focusing on hardwood fuel pellets (HWFP) but you can learn about more types of substrates here.
A good substrate should provide the sustenance your fungi need to thrive and produce delicious mushrooms. It provides all of the nutrients, nitrates and hydration, so it is key you start on the right foot. Supplemented substrates are usually preferred by experienced growers when working with Lion’s Mane.
Whilst some prefer to use bran or oat supplements, one of our favourite and most recommended substrates for growing Lion’s Mane is Master’s Mix.
What is Master’s Mix?
Master’s Mix is a blend between hardwood pellets and soy hulls, which is ideal for Lion’s Mane as it naturally occurs on hardwood trees and the added soy provides an excellent source for the nitrogen and protein for the fungi.
It also provides a structure that is well suited for mycelium growth, allowing for fast colonisation and greater yield sizes.
Whilst sterilization isn’t strictly necessary for hardwood pellets, it is best practice that you do so to maximise your chances of success. Plus, if you do opt for a mixed blend like Master’s mix, you will most certainly need to sterilize your substrate mix.
We have a detailed guide to Master’s Mix in the works, but following the steps below will give you everything you need to know to get started.
Making your Master’s Mix Blend
To produce a simple master’s mix, prepare even amounts of hardwood fuel pellets and soy hulls. The recommended hydration level for a Masters’ Mix is 60% but if you’re using hardwood pellets, you will need to allow for additional water to redhyrate the pellets sufficiently.
Below are the supplies and weights need to produce a 2.3kg substrate:
450g hardwood pellets
450g soy hulls
1.4L clean water
A growing container (we recommend using a mushroom growing bag)
A pair of weight scales
A pressure cooker (Optional)
Latex gloves (Optional)
The first thing you will need to do is to mix your hardwood pellets and soy hulls together in a sterilised container or bag. Next, you will need to add the clean water to the mix. Allow this to sit for 5-10 minutes (or as long as required) to rehydrate the pellets into a sawdust-like mix. If you’re using a mushroom growing bag, it is easiest to hydrate your pellets and mix the supplies directly in the bag.
Sterlising your Substrate Mix
The next step is to sterilise your substrate mixture. There are several ways to sterilise and pastuerise a substrate, but it is recommend that you use a pressure cooker to do so.
If your mix has now hydrated, simply fold and seal the growing bag and place it into your pressure cooker. It is recommended to leave the mix in the cooker for at least two hours at a pressure of 15PSI.
Once your substrate mix has been in the cooker for 2 or more hours, you will need to carefully remove the growing bag and allow it to completely cool in a sanitary environment.
When the substrate has fully cooled, it is time to begin the inoculation process.
Step 3. Inoculating Your Mushroom Substrate
Before starting the inoculation process, use soap and water to thoroughly clean your hands before handling any of your growing materials. You should also ensure that the working environment has been sanitised prior to unsealing the growing bag.
We also recommend continuing this next step in a controlled decontaminated space, such as a flow hood or a DIY container (such as a sterilised clear box with embedded gloves).
For a 2.3kg substrate, we would recommend using 200 grams of grain spawn mix. We stock grain spawn in sizes from 600g to 3kg, so you will have plenty to work with.
If using grain spawn, carefully break apart the spawn and mix throughout the substrate mix, ensuring even coverage and layering.
Once your lion’s mane spawn has been mixed into the substrate, seal your growing bag or cover your container.
A better way to do this is to open the bag following pressure cooking, rapidly add the spawn, seal it immediately, and then mix the material within the sealed bag. This is ideally done in front of a flow hood and reduces exposure time.
Step 4. Incubating Your Lion’s Mane Mushrooms
Now that you’ve prepared and inoculated your substrate, it’s time to let the fungi do its thing.
Place your growing bag in a dark space away from direct sunlight and store at room temperature (18-25°C), although consistently at 23°C is ideal.
How long does it take for Lion’s Mane mushrooms to colonise?
It can take between 14-21 days for your Lion’s Mane to colonise the substrate mix but this could take longer depending on a number of factors, such as the amount of spawn used, the substrate hydration level, and external storage conditions and the quality of the spawn.
How to tell if Lion’s Mane is fully colonised
When compared with other commonly cultivated mushrooms, Lion’s Mane mushroom mycelium threads (known as hyphae) are somewhat finer in appearance and can make it harder to determine whether it has fully colonised the substrate.
Ideally, you will see the substrate mix even coated in a white mycelium, but other ways of testing include feeling the mix to test whether it has become firmer to the touch.
Step 5. How to Help Your Lion’s Mane To Fruit
While your Lion’s Mane is perfectly capable of fruiting their mushrooms when ready, it can be helpful to provide a helping hand by creating conditions that encourage a flush to appear.
For Lion’s Mane, this can be achieved by increasing the humidity of the growing environment. Whilst keeping the growing bag in a shady area, try misting the substrate several times a day with water.
You can also place your growing bag into a plastic liner and spray the inside lining to create a contained humid environment. Pro tip: if you’re not able to mist your substrate every day, place wet tissue paper or cloth inside of the outer lining to maintain humidity.
We suggest cutting a small (5 cm) hole on the side of your bag rather than the top. If you cut the top of the bag or open the entire top, the substrate dries out faster and you get a lot of smaller mushrooms instead of a few large groupings.
Only one hole in your bag is required for every 750 grams of substrate. For most bags, one hole is sufficient. However, if you have a really large bag, you may want to cut more holes.
If your bag has any extra room at the top, we recommend folding it down and taping it in place. Mushrooms may attempt to grow from the top if this is not done.
How to Grow Lion’s Mane Mushrooms on Logs
Growing lion’s mane on logs is a low-cost approach to ensure a consistent, long-term supply of fresh lion’s mane.
Everything you need to know about growing lion’s mane on logs is included in the step-by-step guide below. For a more in-depth guide on growing on logs, check out our full article on the topic.
What you’ll need:
Lion’s mane mushroom plug spawn
Comprising dowels, wax and wax applicator
Hardwood logs, which are 2-6 weeks old
Hammer
Drill with 8mm bit (depending on the size of dowels)
Gas cooker (if not near to a domestic stove)
Pan for heating the wax
Buy Now Lion’s Mane Mushroom Plug Spawn From £7.98
Step 1. Preparing Your Supplies & Growing Space
As mentioned above, it’s essential to keep your growing space clean to avoid contamination of your spawn.
When growing lion’s mane mushrooms, always use hardwood logs, we suggest beech or oak logs.
It’s vital to choose healthy trees while selecting logs and to never use logs older than 6 weeks. Any tree with rotting wood or symptoms of infection faces an increased risk of competition with pre-existing fungus in the logs.
Start by drilling a row of 15 cm holes down the length of your log. This is deep enough that when you hammer your plug into the wood, it will leave a little space underneath it, giving an ideal environment for the mycelium to thrive.
After you’ve finished the first row of holes, place the following row of holes in a staggered pattern. Begin the next row of holes 6 cm apart from the first, staggering the rows to create a diamond or checkerboard pattern.
Step 2. Inoculating Your Logs
Getting your plug spawn dowels into the hole should now be a breeze. All you have to do now is gently tap them in with a hammer to secure them.
Your plugs should be flush with the log’s timber and just beneath the bark’s surface. You’ll be able to plug the hole with wax this way.
This is an important step in keeping your mycelium safe and uninfected. The most common form of wax used to fill holes is soy wax; however, other waxes such as cheese or beeswax can also be utilised.
Once the wax has melted, use a wax applicator to apply it to your holes. You can buy them inexpensively or make your own with a cotton ball or rag, or a small brush.
Step 3. Incubating Your Lion’s Mane Mushrooms
Once you have inserted the spawn into your logs and sealed them with wax, your logs are pretty much ready to be left for incubation.
There are several options for storing logs during incubation. Shaded areas like beneath a tree or the side of a house are ideal places to keep your logs.
The most important thing is to keep your logs in an area with good air circulation and a high humidity level.
In dry weather, water your logs with a hose once or twice a week for 10 minutes to maintain the proper moisture level. If they dry out, your mycelium will die.
Step 4. How to Help Your Lion’s Mane To Fruit
You can speed up the growth of your mushrooms by initiating or ‘shocking’ your logs. This can be accomplished by soaking them in cold water for 12-24 hours. This can be done in a stream or pond, a kiddie pool, or even bathtubs or boats!
To ensure that the mycelium has colonised the majority of the log, wait at least a year before shocking it. Instead of waiting two or three years for mushrooms to grow normally, shock is a great technique to accelerate their growth.
When should you harvest Lion’s Mane Mushroom?
It won’t be long before you can harvest and enjoy your lion’s mane mushrooms as they begin to fruit. You might be eating excellent, fresh lion’s mane mushrooms in as little as 4 weeks.
A Lion’s mane mushroom has reached maturity when it stops expanding in diameter and its spines start to lengthen and thicken.
Harvest them before they turn pink or brown for the best taste. To achieve various mane textures, harvest the lion’s mane at various stages of growth and maturity. Younger lion’s mane mushrooms are firmer than their older counterparts.
Cut the “ball” off close to the base of the Lion’s Mane using a sharp knife, being careful not to injure the fruit. If handled gently to avoid bruising, lion’s mane will stay considerably longer in the fridge.
How should Lion’s Mushroom be stored?
Fresh lion’s mane keeps for about a week in the refrigerator. If you have more lion’s mane mushrooms than you can use in a week, dry them out in a food dehydrator or oven to store them.
Fresh vs Dried
Keep them refrigerated and away from water if you’re storing them fresh. Keep in mind that they will only survive a few days in the fridge.
If you want to keep the mushrooms fresh, put them in a paper bag that isn’t too full. They must be able to breathe and keep away from direct dampness; otherwise, they will absorb it like sponges.
If you discover any dark or soft places on a mushroom, or if the mushroom feels squishy and slimy, it’s a dead giveaway that it’s going bad.
Consider drying your mushrooms for a longer-term approach to storing them.
You must finely slice your mushrooms after properly washing them. After that, you set them on your tray and dehydrate them. They’ll be there for the next 6-8 hours. Once completely dry and crisp, seal in a jar and store until ready to eat.
Although this is a straightforward method for long-term storage, it can be time-consuming.
Lion’s Mane Mushroom FAQs
Are Lion’s Mane Good for You?
Lion’s mane mushrooms are a type of medicinal mushroom with a variety of health advantages.
According to research, lion’s mane mushrooms can strengthen the immune system which protects the body from pathogens that enter through the nose and mouth.
Are Lion’s Mane’s Mushrooms Legal?
Lion’s mane mushrooms are perfectly legal. It’s only that fresh lion’s mane is hard to come by, and you’re unlikely to find them at your local supermarket.
What substrates does Lion’s Mane grow best on?
The following are the best types of substrate for growing your Lion’s Mane:
Hardwood logs (I.e. Ash or Beech)
Hardwood fuel pellets (HWFP)
Master’s Mix Supplemented
Other Growing Guides
How To Grow Oyster Mushrooms
How To Grow Shiitake Mushrooms: Everything You Need To Know
How To Grow Mushrooms In Coffee Grounds
How To Grow Mushrooms In Buckets
How To Grow Mushrooms Outdoors With A Mushroom Bed
Ask most any experienced turkey hunter and they can quickly rattle off the names of the four subspecies or races of wild turkey recognized by The National Wild Turkey Federation for purposes of their Grand Slam. A fair number could probably add a fifth for the North American Slam and a sixth for the World Slam. For those not already familiar with them, they are as follows:
Eastern – The Eastern is the largest and most wide-spread race, occurring in every state east of the Mississippi River and along the length of the river’s western side, as well as eastern portions of several plains states and Texas. They are the largest (heaviest) race, sport the longest beards and are best distinguished by chestnut brown tips of their tail feathers and tail coverts. They’re strong, deep-throated gobbles are symbolic of the wild turkey.
Osceola – The Osceola (or Florida) turkey has the narrowest range, occurring only in central and south Florida. They closely resemble Easterns except they tend to be leaner with longer legs, and their primary wing feathers have heavy black barring, as opposed to Eastern where the black-white barring is more even. Their gobble is essentially indistinguishable from an Eastern.
Rio Grande – The Rio Grande’s range spans roughly from Kansas, south through Texas and into Northeastern Mexico, with transplanted populations in California and Oregon (and Hawaii). They are best distinguished by the tan tips of their tail feathers and tail coverts. Their gobble is noticeably different from that of Eastern and Osceola, being more high-pitched and warbly.
Merriam’s – The Merriam’s is scattered across parts of Arizona, New Mexico, up through the mountain states into Nebraska, the Dakotas, and along the Washington, Oregon and Idaho borders. It is best distinguished by the light buff to white tail band and coverts, and showing more white than dark banding in the primaries. While similar to the Rio, its gobble is even higher pitched and softer.
Those are the general guidelines, but for every rule there are exceptions. A century ago, much of what is now their current range was unoccupied by wild turkeys. Thanks to the efforts of state wildlife agencies and NWTF volunteers, turkeys have been restored to most of their historical range through trap and transfer programs. But the folks conducting those efforts weren’t too particular about where their birds came from, as long as they were wild birds. As a result, current subspecies distribution is not nearly as distinct as it once was. In general, the variance is local or regional. For example, Massachusetts’ turkeys came from New York, and Maine’s came from Vermont and Connecticut, but variability is all over the map.
Alabama provides an interesting example. In areas that were repopulated with transplants, the turkeys resemble those in neighboring states. But in areas where the native stock was never extirpated, turkeys look more like Osceola turkeys, with slim bodies and long legs. Some think these birds and Osceolas are representative of a true southeastern strain. Then there are more glaring exceptions. The most extreme is probably Washington, where you can find Eastern, Rio Grande and Merriam’s.
While man played the predominant hand, some of the racial integration was and still is done by the birds themselves, mostly where the geographical range of subspecies overlap. There, you’ll find a lot of hybridization. In east-central Kansas, for example, you may find birds that gobble like Easterns but look more like Rios, and vice versa. And they tend to be among the largest. Nebraska and South Dakota have hybridization of Eastern and Merriam’s. Occasionally there’s just no explanation for what you observe. I hunted a ranch south of San Antonio where we shot birds that had that silly little girl, laughing gobble of a Rio Grande, but looked like Easterns, with brown tail bands and coverts. And on a single hunt in western Nebraska I killed three birds, one resembling an Eastern, one a Rio and the third looked pure Merriam’s. Because translocation and hybridization have led to so much diverse integration, taxonomists tend to ignore subspecies or races and simply lump them all under one species. The lines on a map distinguishing subspecies range are largely just that, lines on a map. However, they do serve as geographic boundaries for purposes of recording your Grand Slam. To my knowledge, Texas is the only state has separate regulations for different subspecies (but I could be wrong about that.)
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Management
Back when I was a budding wildlife student, my professors would tell us that much of wildlife management is people management, and that’s especially true when it comes to wild turkeys. For the most part, the birds do quite well if left to fend for themselves. At the state level, most management programs simply involve regulating hunter harvest to ensure the resource remains healthy and renewable. However, there’s a lot that can be done at the local level to produce and maintain healthier populations.
When it comes to turkey habitat, the good news is, most of what you do to manage or improve the deer habitat on your ground also benefits turkeys. Both are considered edge species, preferring the ecotone, or interface between habitat types – so, in general, the more edge and diversity, the better the habitat. Beyond that, there are some more specific steps you can take.
However, it’s difficult to get too specific with turkey habitat management recommendations because conditions vary so much across the species’ range, and because they’re such an adaptable species. In general, you want to maximize the general habitat variables: food, cover, water and space. Then look for the lowest hole in the bucket – which element is in least abundance – and patch it. And as with deer, you want to make sure your habitat meets the turkey’s changing needs throughout all four seasons.
Year-Round
Let’s start with their year-round needs, and at the top of the list is “roost trees.” Turkeys need a place to sleep at night. In my part of the world, it’s usually a big white pine. If the birds can find one, they’ll shun all other suitable trees. Height provides protection from terrestrial predators, and thick evergreen branches offer protection from owls and the elements. In the south it might be a giant oak or other hardwood, which are usually in good supply in bottom lands and stream protection zones. Out west, it’s likely to be a cottonwood, which you’ll also find near stream bottoms and shelter belts. But as mentioned, turkeys make do with what they have, and I’ve seen birds in Texas roost on power poles, shooting houses and 10 foot tall mesquite bushes. Bottom line – try to keep sufficient roost trees on the property, the more and the bigger, the better, at least when it comes to turkeys.
Just like whitetails, turkeys love edge habitat, and many things you do to help whitetails will also benefit turkeys. Here you see the stomach contents of a recently harvested gobbler – lots of acorns, some berries, grubs, green grass shoots, and it even looks like there are three #4 shot pellets.
Spring
Spring means green-up, an increasing abundance of herbaceous greens. The birds can usually find enough to eat on their own, but give them more in the form of food plots and they’ll be better off for it, now and later on. Again, your deer plots will do just fine, but if you want to plant specifically for turkeys it’s hard to beat clover and chufa. The former you can plant almost anywhere while the latter requires loose, sandy soils. Gobblers need strutting areas. A tom will strut most anywhere when he’s in the mood but he’d much rather be in the open, where the ladies can see him, and he can see predators. That could be food plots, or just logging roads and two-tracks, all things in fairly good supply on most managed properties.
More important is spring nesting cover. Somewhat like a strutting tom, a hen will nest where she has to, but she’d much prefer some dense cover. That might be as complex as those same hinge-cuts you made for deer bedding areas, or as simple as a slash pile left over from your winter firewood cut. They will also nest in CRP areas and densely vegetated fields, so adjust your mowing schedule accordingly.
Far more important for productivity and poult recruitment is predator control, and you don’t need me to tell you how to do that. First, I’m no expert. Second, it would take another entire article, and then some. If you know what you’re doing, do it. If not, consider hiring a professional who does. Chances are it will also help with your fawn production, especially if you have coyotes.
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Summer
At the risk of sounding like a tourism brochure, summer is the time of plenty, when nature abounds with life. Absent of some environmental catastrophe, there’s plenty of food. But the easier it is for turkeys to find the right food, the better. Right now, rapidly growing poults need protein, in the form of insects and invertebrates. They’ll find some in the forest but an open field or food plot full of hoppers and crickets is like an “all you can eat salad bar” for them. Even the skid roads and two tracks the toms used for strut zones will have more insects for their growing offspring. Summer can also be the driest period. For the most part, turkeys will get the moisture they need from their food, as evidenced by their abundance in even the most arid regions. Add water, where it’s scarce, and it only makes finding food easier. And the turkeys will come simply to drink – that’s why lying in ambush near a tank is a popular tactic in Texas.
Fall
The key for fall is food, and we’ll lump late summer in here as well. As summer draws to a close, herbaceous plants are maturing. It can be somewhat stressful for deer as the greenery begins losing its nutritional value, but it’s a boom for birds because maturing forbs and grasses produce seeds. Meanwhile, vines and shrubs are also producing a smorgasbord of soft mast like grapes and berries. Many species grow wild, particularly in disturbed areas like cut-overs, and along those well exposed habitat edges mentioned above. But mast production and availability from wild plants can be variable and unreliable. If you’ll pardon the pun, you can hedge your habitat bets by planting groves or patches of soft mast producing shrubs and trees.
Speaking of trees, many of the same species you plant in your mast orchards for deer will also benefit turkeys, particularly after the soft mast crop passes. As that group of plants dies or goes dormant, the turkeys now turn their attention to what’s left: nuts and that remains the case through winter, when food and cover are most scarce, and when turkeys can sometimes make themselves quite unwelcome. In the west, they may tear into hay bales meant for livestock. In the northeast they’ll do the same to the plastic sheeting covering silage piles. The birds will make the most of whatever they have and somehow they find a way to withstand winter. They’ll scratch away the frozen leaves to find acorns overlooked or possibly even stowed away by small mammals. They’ll plow and paw through deep powder to eat frozen clover. If the snow freezes to a crust they’ll walk on top and feed on the windblown catkins and seeds of birch and ash.
If you provide enough food on your ground, you stand a better chance of keeping the turkeys home and healthy, and keeping your neighbors happy. It’s always preferable to provide natural food but if you’re going to provide supplemental feed this is the time to do it. Just be conscientious and careful how you go about it because like deer, turkeys can quickly become dependent on you for survival when fed supplementally.
Summary
All things considered, turkeys are much easier to manage than deer. Make sure they have a sufficient amount of the proper habitat variables, which is typically the case on most managed and many unmanaged properties. Keep the predators down, time your mowing and burning to avoid nesting periods and manage your harvest rates to avoid over-exploitation. The turkeys will take care of the rest themselves. They even do a pretty good job of limiting harvest by outwitting us more often than not.
Bob Humphrey is a wildlife biologist who participated in the first modern turkey hunt in Massachusetts in 1980. Later he assisted with turkey translocation efforts in Maine and in 2006 became the first per-son to officially record a wild turkey Grand Slam with a crossbow.
If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best Glock 34 sights:
TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium and Fiber Optic: Best Competition Sights for Glock 34
TRUGLO Tritium: Best Budget Sights for Glock 34
Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set: Best Night Sights for Glock 34
AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring Green: Best Ghost Ring Sights for Glock 34
1. TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium and Fiber Optic: Best Competition Sights for Glock 34
The TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium Fiber Optic Sight is the best competition sight for Glocks.
In fact:
TRUGLO TFX Pro has completely transformed my results in short-range competitions. Since I began using them, my shot groupings are tighter, and my accuracy improved.
Sound like something you’re interested in?
Keep reading…
Tritium and Fiber Optics
One of my favorite features about the TFX Pro is the combination of tritium and fiber optics.
While tritium continuously glows, it’s best suited for night and lowlight because its luminescence isn’t noticeable in bright light. The fiber optic compensates for tritium’s daytime dullness because it absorbs ambient light, enabling it to glow in bright settings.
While I use these sights mainly for competition—usually in well-lit ranges—being able to rely on the tritium fiber optic combo assures me that I’m well-equipped to handle any self-defense scenario in all lighting conditions.
Eye Relief & Eye Box
The eye relief is unlimited.
This is great because—in addition to keeping both eyes open—I can get a sight picture from various distances and at different angles.
This is especially useful for self-defense, as these scenarios often unfold quickly with little time to aim.
Durability
The TFX Pro is built like the Titanic.
The rods are made from CNC machined steel coated with TRUGLO’s Fortress Finish, making it wear-resistant.
Unlike older TRUGLO sights, the tritium and fiber optics are hermetically sealed in the TFX Pro. This is great because it prevents damage during usage and also protects the tritium and fiber optics from oils, chemicals, and cleaning solvents.
While this means that the front sight is a bit longer, it ensures that your tritium and fiber optics are protected.
I don’t get hung up with the longer front sight, but I can see how it might be a hassle if you’re using a holster. So make sure to assess whether adding these sights impacts the ease with which you draw your weapon.
The rear sights come with a tensioning screw for the dovetail, so they don’t budge—even if you hit them. I appreciate the added security because it ensures that your rear sights stay put when doing one-handed manipulations.
A perk to the tritium and fiber optics is that it’s battery-free and long-lasting since tritium and fiber optics have a half-life of 12 years.
Front and Rear Sights
The contrast between the orange ring and the three green dots in the sight picture makes acquisition seamless and improves accuracy.
Although the orange ring dims in low light, it didn’t stop me from getting a good sight picture.
The rear sights’ U-notch design also promotes quick acquisition, and its elevated ledges make for easy one-handed manipulations.
I find that the U-notch’s width also provides adequate spacing between the rear and front sights in my sight picture, which helps accuracy.
Installation
Both front and rear sights are easy to install.
The sights come with an Allen wrench and tensioning screw, but I also used a
TRUGLO front sight tool:
A sight pusher:
And 242 Blue Loctite:
Just make sure that the front sight is installed tightly. Otherwise, it’ll be wobbly.
If you don’t want to install it on your own—or don’t own tools and don’t want to buy them—drop by your gunsmith for an installment.
Is the TRUGLO TFX Pro worth it?
If you want to compete with a Glock, or want sights that are optimal for self-defense, get the TRUGLO TFX Pro.
It’s got:
Strong build
Easy one-hand operation
Around the clock visibility
Quick focus and accuracy
You should know that TRUGLO only honors the 12-year warranty if your sights are installed by a licensed gunsmith. So if it’s detectable that you installed them, the warranty is voided.
Honestly, for the price, I think these are great sights. They’re made with quality material, and the Fortress Finish provides excellent protection, so you shouldn’t run into any longevity or functionality issues.
So if you’re looking for simple, but accurate and easy to use sights that are always ready to go, I would definitely buy the TRUGLO TFX Pro.
2. TRUGLO Tritium: Best Budget Sights for Glock 34
TRUGLO Tritium Night Sights are the best budget sights for the Glock 34.
In fact:
I used to have these mounted on my home defense and concealed carry pistols because of their unparalleled performance and price.
Here’s what I like about them…
Sights
These sights use the familiar three-dot design: two glowing green dots on the rear sight and one green dot on the front.
In the brighter lighting, the rear sights turn black while the front sight turns white to match the large focus and lock ring.
So, even in the daylight, these sights are guiding my eye for faster, more accurate target acquisition.
Tritium And Fiber Optics
What really makes these sights stand out is the dual tritium and fiber optic feature.
The tritium green dots glow at night without batteries, while the fiber optic white sights gather and magnify the light from the surrounding area. So they’re good in daylight, low light and no light situations.
I can use them while hunting day or night, but I also like having them for home defense.
You never know what the situation could look like, so knowing that I can use them in dim or no light situations puts me at ease.
Notch Style and Design
I have these sights on a couple of different guns, but I prefer them on my Glock 34.
I test and work with a lot of different pistols, so switching to the Glock with a heavier barrel always throws off my accuracy. Using sights, especially ones that perform to the caliber that these do, help me.
The U-Notch rear sight is designed for fast accuracy, not beauty.
The rear sight doesn’t blend well with the slide. It’s ugly to say the least, but it’s more than functional.
The angled rear sight also lets me rack the gun with one hand right off my belt — another great feature for home defense.
Durability
The TRUGLO Tritium is far more durable than any other sights in their price range, but they’re not indestructible.
I’ve shot hundreds and hundreds of rounds with these sights on my Glock 34. But, I noticed that after maybe 500 rounds, the front sight had come loose.
So if you intend on putting thousands of rounds through your gun, I’d go for a higher end glock 34 sight, like the TFX Pro.
Speaking of sights, if you’re looking for a high-end, mid-level priced optic, check out my review on the Leupold VX-R.
Mounting & Installation
You don’t have to make a special trip to a gunsmith to have these installed.
It took me less than 10 minutes to install these on my Glock 34. The front sight takes a hexagonal screw, while the rear sight is installed with an allen screw.
The drawback to the longer front sight is that it sticks out over the cutout on the top of the slide on the 34 (and 35) Glock. Not only does this not look as clean, but it can also compromise the sight’s lifetime.
What I did to fix this was to use some Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 to prevent the screws loosening over time. I haven’t had an issue since.
Is the TRUGLO Tritium worth it?
Because of their performance in low-light and no-light situations, I love these sights for my home and self-defense Glock 34. The snag-resistant design gives me a clean draw every time, so I’m ready faster.
If you’re looking for an affordable sight that outperforms its cost, these are the sights for you. Here’s why:
Affordable
U-Notch rear sight
Tritium and Fiber Optic
12 year, limited warranty
Unmatched visibility in all light conditions
In other words:
These sights have all of the premium features at half the cost. That’s why they’re my go-to for home and self-defense pistol sights.
With all the money I save, that’s more that I can put toward buying ammo and more time shooting.
So if you’re looking for the best night sights for your Glock 34 that won’t break the bank, I wouldn’t think twice about getting the TRUGLO Tritium Night Sights.
3. Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set: Best Night Sights for Glock 34
The Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set is a fantastic set of self-luminous iron sights for use in all lighting conditions.
In fact, I think they are the best night sights available for the Glock 34.
Let’s find out why…
Visibility
Hands down, these are the most visible pistol iron sights I’ve ever used. And I’ve tested them in all lighting conditions.
Sight acquisition during low light and night conditions is fantastic. The green lamp tubes in the sights glow very brightly in the dark. I really like this feature on my home defense Glock, because if I need it, odds are I will need it at night!
But these sights are also great during the daytime. The lamp tubes are housed within an orange outer ring which is insanely easy to see in the light.
In fact, even if you don’t plan on doing much night shooting, I still recommend these sights just for the orange ring alone. It’s that good.
Accuracy
Simply put, these iron sights are very accurate.
I mounted them on my Glock 34 and the point of impact is right above the front post.
And after months of regular shooting, I haven’t noticed any shifting at all.
I also noticed that the HD XR has a thinner front post than most other iron sights.
The thinner post doesn’t obscure your target. This is great for shooting at longer ranges, and allows for better target identification at any distance.
Durability
The HD XR Night Sights are very durable.
This is because the lamp tubes are held in an anodized aluminum frame.
This makes them much stronger than standard plastic Glock sights, but still keeps them very light.
Mounting
You’ll want to have these installed by a professional using proper gunsmithing tools.
So take a quick trip to the gunsmith, and you’ll be all set to shoot in any light conditions.
Is the Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set worth it?
Overall, the Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set is a fantastic set of high-visibility, durable iron sights for your Glock 34.
They’ve got:
Durable metal frame
Bright green lamp tubes for night shooting
High visibility orange ring for daytime shooting
Slim profile front post that doesn’t obscure your target
Plus, the sights are covered under Trijicon’s Limited Lifetime Warranty.
So whether you want to shoot during the day, the night, or somewhere in between, the Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set is your best bet.
Looking for an optic for your 7.62×39? Check out our guide to the top choices.
4. AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring Green: Best Ghost Ring Sights for Glock 34
The AmeriGlo GL-125 Ghost Ring is a highly accurate, highly visible ghost ring custom tailored for Glock pistols.
In fact, it’s the best ghost ring you can buy for the Glock 34.
I don’t make this claim lightly. Read on to find out why the GL-125 is the best Glock 34 ghost ring on the market.
Accuracy
The GL-125 is incredibly accurate.
This is due to the design of the ghost ring, which uses an aperture instead of a traditional notch for the rear sight. Basically, it’s a circle, so it draws the eye naturally to the center while allowing you to focus on the front post.
This helps you level your pistol both correctly and quickly, which makes for accurate shots. Target acquisition is quicker with a ghost ring too, which is great for use with a defense weapon.
In fact, since using the GL-125 on my Glock 34, I’ve noticed that my shooting with all pistols has improved. The skills I’m perfecting by using the ghost ring transfer well even to the standard notch-and post sights on most of my other handguns.
Visibility
This ghost ring shows up perfectly well in any lighting conditions.
The tritium lamps glow a very bright green, which is easy to see in low-light or even total darkness.
And the white circle around the lamp on the front post is very easy to pick up in the daylight.
This means that day or night, you’ll be able to reliably put shots on target.
Durability
This ghost ring is insanely durable.
The ghost ring and front post are both made with a steel frame, so they can take all kinds of abuse.
I’ve even practiced racking the slide on my Glock one handed, using the sights and my belt, and they didn’t budge. Hopefully I’ll never need to use that skill, but it’s good to know I can do it in an emergency!
Mounting
Installing the GL-125 was a breeze. I didn’t even have to take it to the gunsmith.
Just snap them in place, and get to shooting.
Is the AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring worth it?
Overall, the AmeriGlo GL-125 Ghost Ring is a fantastic all-purpose Glock sight suitable for all shooting conditions.
It’s got:
High durability
Easy self-installation
Aperture-style rear sight
White circle for day shooting
Bright green tritium lamps for night shooting
And if all that isn’t enough, the ghost ring is covered by AmeriGlo’s standard warranty.
So if you’re looking for a good alternative to traditional notch-and-post pistol sights for your Glock 34, look no further than the AmeriGlo GL-125 Ghost Ring.
Need an optic for your AR-15? Check out my guide to the 7 Best AR-15 Scopes and Optics.
Now It’s Your Turn
I hope you enjoyed my best sights for Glock 34 guide.
So as a recap:
If you’re looking for the best competition sights for Glock 34, get the TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium and Fiber Optic.
Looking for the best sights for Glock 34 under budget? Choose TRUGLO Tritium.
How about the best night sights for Glock 34? Then opt-in for Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set.
Lastly, if you are looking for the best ghost ring sights for Glock 34, I’d recommend AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring Green.
That said, you can’t go wrong with any of these options. After all, I have hand and torture tested all the above sights, and proved to be reliable.
Now I want to turn it over to you:
Which scope will you pick for your Glock 34?
Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.
We often get asked questions about silencers, such as how to buy a silencer or how to clean a silencer, that experienced users deem simple but are important questions for new gun and silencer owners. Thanks to misrepresentation in the media and politics about silencers, muzzle brakes, flash hiders, suppressor accessories, and even the simple act of barrel threading, it’s only logical that there is some confusion out there.
So, we are going to look at the various things you can screw onto the end of your rifle or pistol’s muzzle, what they do and how they work. If you already know this, great! Share this post to a new gun owner, or even an anti-gunner who has been left behind through media propaganda. And if you don’t know, read on!
There is no difference between a silencer and a suppressor, and the terms are 100 percent interchangeable. Whether someone uses the term “suppressor” or “silencer,” they’re referencing the exact same thing. So why the different names, you might ask? Well, we must go back to the very beginning, with the invention of the Maxim Silencer. Invented by Hiram Percy Maxim, son of the famous machine gun inventor, the Maxim Silencer was patented in 1909 and was the first successful silencer on the market.
Now, truth in advertising laws were lax to nonexistent back then and breathtaking claims were the order of the day. Maxim advertised that his crude device made of stamped sheet metal baffles stacked inside a steel tube would render a firearm silent. This is pretty much impossible, even today unless you use a highly engineered device with carefully crafted subsonic ammo or low powered rimfire ammo.
In other words, a silencer isn’t exactly a “silencer.” It’s more like a muffler (which Maxim went on to develop for cars) or a device for suppressing sound. You know, a suppressor.
However, the name “silencer” stuck. Later on, shooters and manufacturers promoted the more accurate “suppressor” to reflect the reality of these devices.
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Silencer vs. Suppressor – Does It Matter What You Call Them?
Probably not. After all, we are Silencer Central, and we sell the famous BANISH Suppressor, which shows how interchangeable the terms really are. But because the term “silencer” is so heavily ingrained in modern usage, it is as viable a term as “suppressor.” The difference between a silencer and a suppressor? Absolutely none.
Perhaps the only real problem now is that with two competing popular terms, folks can get confused — and that’s understandable. After all, the two really do sound like similar but different devices. But rest assured, there’s no difference and you can call a silencer a suppressor, or a suppressor a silencer. It’s completely up to you.
Now that we’ve cleared up the gun suppressor vs silencer question, let’s look at another area of confusion…
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Flash Suppressor vs Silencer
If suppressors are silencers, then are flash suppressors also silencers? Well, no they aren’t. While both devices are designed to suppress aspects of muzzle gas, they do two radically different things.
What is a Flash Hider?
A sound suppressor works only on slowing down and cooling gas to reduce the sound of gunfire. A flash suppressor (or flash hider) works to reduce the visibility of flaming gas. While it’s true that a sound suppressor also reduces (or eliminates) muzzle flash, it’s a side effect of the gas containment. A flash suppressor, on the other hand, offers no sound reduction.
Flash suppressors are intended for the benefit of the person shooting the gun and reduce or almost eliminate the visual flame from a barrel under low light conditions. This makes it easier to see and is invaluable for self-defense situations and when hunting in low light conditions.
How Does a Flash Hider Work?
There are various sorts of flash suppressors on the market today that work in a number of different ways. Some are little more than cones or cans that contain and disperse the flaming gasses at the muzzle long enough for them to burn off or cool down. Others redirect the gas and flame in order to drive it away from the shooter’s field of vision.
Many flash suppressors are combined with muzzle brakes, which also redirect gas energy to reduce recoil. It only makes sense to combine the two products in that fashion, but not all flash suppressors are muzzle brakes, and not all muzzle brakes are flash suppressors. Confused? Don’t worry, we have a full article covering muzzle brakes vs. flash suppressors.
Why Are Flash Suppressors Regulated in Some States?
That’s a good question. The simple answer is fear and moral panic. Some people believe the purpose of a flash suppressor is to hide the gun and make it stealthier in use. Other people think that anything that makes a gun easier, more ergonomic or more comfortable to shoot somehow means the gun will magically kill people and be used in a crime. These misconceptions are often deliberately promoted by media and anti-gun crusaders, and sometimes reshape how the general public understands guns.
States like California which have an aversion to civil rights are busy making sure law-abiding citizens can’t reduce a bit of visual flash on the end of their self-defense pistol, hunting rifle or sporting carbine. This is simply because they think a bit of metal with notches cut in it or a metal cone turns a rifle into an assault rifle of some sort. There is no rational reason to regulate these very common devices, save for the desire to attack our gun rights and shared freedom.
Silencers vs. Suppressors vs. Flash Suppressors
Gun silencers and suppressors are two terms the same thing with each name born out of a different era in American history and marketing. They can be and are used interchangeably without affecting the meaning.
However, flash suppressors and sound suppressors are radically different devices doing different things, although a sound suppressor combines both functions due to the nature of how it operates. Hopefully, this clears up some confusion on seemingly identical and sometimes conflicting sounding terms.
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Want to learn more about silencers? Visit our products page and look over our line of suppressors.
Feel free to give us a call at 888.781.8778 or email customerservice@silencercentral.com to learn which one is best for you and how to buy it.
Wyatt Earp has said:
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything
And I just thought how many airgunners are obsessed with muzzle velocity and muzzle energy,...