You’ll find our in-depth look at 8.6 Blackout ballistics from manufacturers who load 8.6 Blackout ammo.

Click on the links below to skip to your preferred ammo company and find the data you need for your favorite factory load.

8.6 Blackout Ballistics Charts

Jump to an ammo company: Callaway | Dirty Bird | Fort Scott | Gorilla

Callaway Ammunition Ballistics – 8.6 Blackout

Callaway Ballistics 8.6 Blackout 285 grain ELD-M Ballistics Chart

(Back to Top)

Dirty Bird Industries Ammunition Ballistics – 8.6 Blackout

Dirty Bird 8.6 Blackout 300 grain SMK Ballistics Chart

(Back to Top)

Fort Scott Munitions Ballistics – 8.6 Blackout

Fort Scott Munitions 8.6 Blackout 285 grain TUI Ballistics Chart

(Back to Top)

Gorilla Ammunition Ballistics – 8.6 Blackout

Jump to a ballistics chart: Gorilla 8.6 Blackout 210 grain TSX | Gorilla 8.6 Blackout 300 grain SMK | Gorilla Silverback 8.6 Blackout 285 grain Fracturing | Gorilla Subsonic Hunting 8.6 Blackout 342 grain Pork Shredder CHP

Gorilla 8.6 Blackout 210 grain TSX Ballistics Chart

Gorilla 8.6 Blackout 300 grain SMK Ballistics Chart

Gorilla Silverback 8.6 Blackout 285 grain Fracturing Ballistics Chart

Gorilla Subsonic Hunting 8.6 Blackout 342 grain Pork Shredder CHP Ballistics Chart

(Back to Top)

Administrative Note: The information above comes from the manufacturer and is only informational. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load. When manufacturer ballistic data was unavailable, ballistics were calculated using a ballistics calculator.

8.6 Blackout Ballistics Trajectory Chart

The trajectory measures a bullet’s flight to its target based on bullet drop (in inches). Below, you’ll find an 8.6 Blackout bullet drop chart that gives you a general idea of the 8.6 Blackout trajectory.

Note: The chart above is an example of one 8.6 Blackout load, and actual ballistic performance may vary depending on bullet weight, lot, barrel length, and environmental conditions while shooting.

The 8.6 Blackout is not what we shooters consider a long-range round. As you can see, it quickly drops off after 100 yards, which is abysmal compared to a round like the 6.5 PRC or even the 300 BLK.

8.6 Blackout Muzzle Velocity (FPS)

Muzzle velocity is the bullet’s speed when it leaves the firearm barrel. It’s measured in feet per second (fps). Generally, a longer barrel length allows for more powder to burn, generating a higher muzzle velocity. Bullet design and weight will also affect muzzle velocity.

You should expect a muzzle velocity of around 1,000 fps for most 8.6 Blackout ammo, including the Gorilla Subsonic Hunting 8.6 Blackout 342-grain Pork Shredder CHP. However, the Gorilla 8.6 Blackout 210gr TSX has a much higher-than-usual muzzle velocity of 1,970 fps. This is partly due to the lighter bullet, which takes more powder to propel heavier bullets faster.

8.6 Blackout Muzzle Energy

Muzzle energy is how much force a bullet delivers to its target at a given range, measured in foot-pounds of energy (ft-lbs). The terminal performance of a round will depend on whether it’s a supersonic load or subsonic load, bullet weight, bullet design, barrel length, and several other factors.

The muzzle energy of the 8.6 Blackout is nothing to gasp at, generally hitting 623 ft-lbs to 729 ft-lbs of energy. However, the Gorilla Ammunition with a 210gr Barnes TSX has a much higher muzzle energy of 1,810 ft-lbs of energy.

How Do 8.6 Blackout Ballistics Compare to Other Rifle Cartridges?

Ballistic performance depends on an incredibly high amount of factors from the gun, whether it’s a bolt action rifle or a semi-auto rifle like the AR-10 platform, and barrel length; a short barrel will cause the bullet to react differently than a long barrel, plus all the environmental factors and the ammo.

This is why results vary considerably even amongst the same caliber bullets, making comparing different calibers much more difficult.

However, we’ve compared a couple of common rifle calibers to the 8.6 Blackout just to give you an idea of its performance capabilities.

8.6 Blackout vs. 223 Rem

First things first: When comparing these two calibers, we must be fully aware of the bullets’ size differences. The heaviest 223 Remington bullet is 77 gr, while the 8.6 BLK is loaded with bullets as heavy as 342 gr. So, with this in mind, the ballistics will be drastically different.

The muzzle velocity of a 77gr 223 Rem bullet is 2,750 fps, and one of the fastest 8.6 Blackout bullets is a 185 gr bullet with a muzzle velocity of 2,200 fps. But when we step up to the heaviest bullet for the 8.6 Blackout (342 grains), the velocity is more than cut in half to 1,000 fps.

The 8.6 Blackout also has a low muzzle velocity compared to the 223 Remington. The same 77 gr 223 Rem bullet has a muzzle velocity of 1,293 ft-lbs, double most 8.6 Blackout rounds. However, the 210 gr TSX 8.6 BLK bullet has a higher muzzle energy of 1,810 ft-lbs; the 223 Rem cannot produce this much muzzle energy.

Because the 8.6 Blackout was designed to be shot through a carbine with a suppressor, the trajectory is pretty embarrassing, to say the least.

The 210 grain TSX 8.6 BLK bullet is the flattest shooting 8.6 Blackout round, and when zeroed in at 100 yards, it has 9.4 inches of drop at 200 yards and 129.9 inches of drop at 500 yards. When zeroed in at 200 yards, yes, the 223 Remington shoots flat enough to zero in at 200 yards; the bullet drops 54.73 inches at 500 yards and passes over 600 yards before it drops more than 130 inches.

The differing intended purposes can account for the drastic differences. The 8.6 Blackout is an excellent close-quarters self-defense and a close-range big game hunting rifle. Meanwhile, the 223 Rem is fun to take varmint hunting and plink with at the range.

8.6 Blackout vs 6.5 Creedmoor

The 8.6 Blackout and 6.5 Creedmoor are the closest you can get to having an even comparison regarding the 8.6 BLK. This is because the 6.5 Creedmoor case is the parent case of the 8.6 Blackout.

Some shooters claim the 8.6 Blackout is the big brother to the 6.5 Creedmoor and 300 Blackout; this is primarily due to the size of the bullet each caliber shoots and not based on the ballistics.

The 6.5 Creedmoor Hornady ELD-Match 120 gr bullet has a muzzle velocity of 2,910 fps, and the closest the 8.6 Blackout comes to that is 1,970 fps with a 210 gr Barnes TSX bullet.

Regarding muzzle energy, the 6.5 Creedmoor sits around 2,400 ft-lbs whether you’re shooting the 120 grain or 140 grain bullet. However, the 8.6 Blackout hovers around 700 ft-lbs of energy and tops out at 1,810 ft-lbs with a 210 gr bullet.

I’m sure you know what’s coming concerning the trajectory. To be fair, the 6.5 Creedmoor was designed for long-distance shooting, whereas the 8.6 Blackout was not.

When zeroed in at 100 yards, the 210 grain 8.6 BLK bullet drops over 9 inches by the 200-yard mark and basically 130 inches by the 500-yard mark. In contrast, the 6.5 Creedmoor can be zeroed in at 200 yards and only drops 46 inches by 500 yards.

Frequently Asked Questions

The team at Ammo.com has gathered and answered some of the most commonly asked questions we receive regarding 8.6 Blackout ballistics.

What is the effective range of the 8.6 Blackout?

The effective range of the 8.6 Blackout is 1,000 yards with supersonic rounds, but 300 yards tends to be the max for most shooters as the trajectory is terrible.

What is the supersonic velocity of an 8.6 Blackout?

The supersonic velocity of an 8.6 Blackout round is 2,400 fps, according to Faxon Firearms.

Is 8.6 Blackout the same as 8.6 Creedmoor?

Yes, the 8.6 Blackout is the same as the 8.6 Creedmoor.

What barrel length is recommended for optimal performance with the 8.6 Blackout cartridge?

A 12” barrel is the recommended barrel length for optimal performance with the 8.6 Blackout cartridge. However, to shoot further distances, stepping up to a 16-inch barrel is not a bad idea.

What barrel twist rate is recommended for the 8.6 Blackout?

A 1:3 in or 1:4 in barrel twist rate is recommended for the 8.6 Blackout.

Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, we will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.

The Top 3 Best Air Rifle Scopes Reviewed

Owning a good scope is a necessity for anyone with an air rifle. Scopes allow you to zero in on a target and ensures a fast, humane kill when hunting. I did the hard work for you and chose 3 scopes from my favorite brand: UTG.

UTG Pro is actually a part of the famous Leapers Company that is known for their durable, powerful scopes that pack power and accuracy into an affordable tier of scopes. Whether you’re a beginner and want to see what a difference scopes can be when shooting or you’re an experienced shooter looking to enhance the fun, you’ll find a scope that meets your need on our list.

The UTG brand also features superior light gathering technology for accurate, clear views even in low light conditions.

Keep in mind that all of these scopes are under $200 and have been thoroughly tested. They’re all great options, but the UTG 3-12×44 is the number 1 choice.

1. UTG 3-12×44 30mm Compact Air Rifle Scope Review

My first choice for the best air rifle scope. The 3-12×44 is precise, easy to adjust and mount, and comes with some of the best features on the market. It’s also a very affordable scope, which is another reason I like this model. After all, you’re probably going to mount this UTG model on a decent rifle.

Technical Specs

• 30-millimeter
• 3-12×44 magnification
• 36-color reticle
• Sealed and nitrogen filled tube
• Fog-proof and rain-proof
• Flip open lens cap
• Sunshade
• Zero locking / resetting turrets
• Lifetime warranty
• Parallax free view

Right out of the box, you’ll be able to tell just how solid of a design this scope has. Weighing just 1.4 pounds, it doesn’t add unnecessary weight to the rifle, and it measures 10.4” in length.

Click here to buy now and get discounted price on the UTG 3-12×44 30mm Compact Air Rifle Scope.

Mounting Made Simple

From the moment of unpacking to actually mounting and torquing the scope, it took about 5 minutes. Once mounted, I moved onto the turrets that allow for full adjustment of the scope. There are top turrets for locking and resetting. You’ll also be able to tune the windage and elevation to your liking.

The side wheel adjusting turret allows you to achieve a parallax-free view starting at 10 yards.

Looking into the scope for the first time, you’ll see that there’s a range-estimating reticle that allows you to judge your shot based on distance and make any necessary adjustments.

The EZ-TAP function can be controlled with a simple click and will allow color blind users to find the perfect color when shooting. Those that are not color blind will be able to see even in the harshest of conditions from heavy snow to torrential rain. This adds a whole new element to the way you can shoot your rifle.

Accurate at 200 Yards

I always start at a close range when trying to zero a scope, and then move back as necessary. The first few rounds were close to center, but it required a few more adjustments before I was able to achieve insane accuracy. I was able to hit ½” or less groups at 40 yards with no issue at all.

Moving back to 100 yards, the scope still held zero. Even after going back further, the scope held zero like a champ. After 300 rounds, the scope was still deadly accurate.

With 12x magnification, you’ll be able to zoom right into a target at ranges of 100+ yards. Whether your rifle can shoot adequately to hit the target at this range is another question, but most mid to high-priced options will.

As my first pick for any rifle, this is the perfect scope and it costs under $150. With the color enhancements and the fine tuning that’s able to be adjusted, this scope is good for small and large game as well as distance plinking. Holding true for over 300 rounds, you won’t need to make frequent adjustments to reach zero again no matter how much recoil your rifle has.

Check out the following video below for a more detailed look at this scope!

Click here to buy now and get discounted price on the UTG 3-12×44 30mm Compact Air Rifle Scope

2. UTG 3-9×32 Compact CQB Bug Buster AO RGB Air Rifle Scope Review

The Bug Buster is cheaper than our #1 choice and is the perfect scope if you’re on a budget. You’ll immediately notice that this scope has 9x magnification instead of 12x magnification. If you’re going to be shooting smaller game at a far distance, this may be a concern, but for the majority of hunters this won’t be an issue at all.

Technical Specs

• 3-9×32 magnification power
• 1-inch tube
• Zero locking / reset turrets
• Range estimating reticle
• Fog-proof and rain-proof
• Completely sealed
• Nitrogen filled
• ¼ MOA adjustments
• Parallax Free view at 3 yards
• RGB side wheel illumination
• 13.9 ounce weight

I truly appreciate when a scope is lightweight. If a scope is too heavy, it can take more strength to get the perfect shot, and after a few hours of shooting, your arms tire. This 9.8” in length scope weighs just 13.9 ounces, adding less than a pound of weight to your rifle. For larger caliber models, this is a major advantage.

Click here to buy now and get discounted price on the UTG 3-9×32 Compact CQB Bug Buster AO RGB Air Rifle Scope

Easy Adjustments and Mounting

Mounting is a breeze with all UTG models, which is one of the reasons that this is my preferred brand. After reading users mounting this scope to their hunting rifles, I thought why not give it a try myself. After all, this model is very affordable.

The rock solid construction is accompanied by smooth, ¼ MOA clicks that allow you to perfectly set up a kill.

Making sure the screws were tightened and torqued, it was time to adjust the turrets to achieve zero. The reticle’s vertical axis should be adjusted followed by the windage and elevation.

Once all adjustments were made, I tested out the scope and was blown away by the accuracy.

Accurate and Clear

The first few shots were off as is normal. I needed to adjust the windage and elevation slightly, but once I was done, I did my first test at 25 yards. At this range, I was able to hit the bull’s-eye 25% of the time and accuracy only improved as I broke in my rifle.

After 250 rounds, I was getting tight groups and didn’t have to readjust the scope at all. It held zero perfectly.

Clarity is great even when it’s raining or temperatures change quickly and the scope should be foggy. The sealant is amazing, so you won’t have to worry about an unclear shot.

As for holding zero, after 400 rounds, the scope was still deadly accurate and did not need to be readjusted.

In low light conditions, this scope performed exceptionally well. The light gathering technology that UTG boasts about is very powerful. When in bright light conditions, I did have some issues as too much light was filtered into the lens and threw off my shot a bit. For a scope that’s under $100, this model performed so well that I would recommend it as the ideal entry-level or intermediate scope. It paired up really nice with some of my Benjamin air rifles.

While not as powerful as our first choice, this scope is still an amazing buy. Get a deeper look into this scope below.

Click here to buy now and get discounted price on the UTG 3-9×32 Compact CQB Bug Buster AO RGB Air Rifle Scope

3. UTG 4-16×44 30mm Air Rifle Scope Review

Our third choice could have easily been our first pick, but it does come with two drawbacks: it’s slightly more expensive and the magnification is not needed by all hunters. With 4-16×44 magnification, this scope is immensely powerful for anyone that just wants to enjoy plinking or is planning on eliminating a few pests in the garden.

Technical Specs

• 30mm tube
• Emerald lens coating
• Shock-proof, fog-proof and water-proof
• 4x to 16x power
• EZ-TAP illumination
• Parallax from 10 yards
• Mil-dot range finder
• ¼ MOA adjustments
• Side wheel turret
• Nitrogen filled and sealed
• 15.2 ounce weight
• 17.3” length

A super powerful scope, if you’re in the market for a scope with this level of magnification, I highly recommend this model. If you’re on a tight budget, my first and second choice models will blow you away.

Click here to buy now and get discounted price on the UTG 4-16×44 30mm Air Rifle Scope

Amplification Power

The amplification power of this scope is 4-16x which is powerful enough to see a fly at 80 yards, but it may be too powerful for your needs. Keep in mind that powerful scopes also require more light, so in low light conditions, you may experience an issue.

The EZ-Tap illumination rectifies most low light issues, allowing for a great shot.

A more powerful scope will also be heavier in most cases. While I listed the weight at 15.2 ounces, other product definitions go up to 24 ounces. I did not weigh the scope myself before mounting, but it does seem heavier than just 15 ounces.

Easy Adjustments and Holds Zero

Holding zero is so important when you’re hunting. You don’t want to waste time trying to readjust only to see your potential kill run away. All of these models hold zero exceptionally well.

Adjustments of ¼ MOA allow for the utmost in fine tuning, and there is also a side turret to adjust the parallax. The windage and elevation adjustments are just like the other options we mentioned and can be adjusted using the simple-to-click turrets.

So, how well did it hold zero? I attached this to a .357 caliber Benjamin Rogue to test it out and boy did it hold zero. After 300 rounds with this powerful rifle, there was no need to adjust or worry about hitting the target.

Just like with our first option, you can tap the EZ-Tap to on and will be able to see in virtually all light conditions. With 36-colors, you won’t have an issue at all even if you’re color blind.

If you’ve never had a scope that allows for parallax adjustments, you’ll quickly learn how useful and valuable this feature is when hunting. Every last bit of adjustments you do will make your shot closer to the bulls’-eye.

Why isn’t this model my first choice? It’s a little costly and provides too much power for most users. If you don’t have a high-end rifle, you don’t need a scope of this power. For under $175, this is a great option for anyone with a high-end scope that needs this level of magnification.

Need a better visual of this scope? Watch the video below.

Click here to buy now and get discounted price on the UTG 4-16×44 30mm Air Rifle Scope

After trying all three of these UTG scopes, it was tough to pick the best air rifle scope out of the bunch. When it comes to the perfect balance of power and affordability, the UTG 3-12×44 is the clear winner and our #1 choice.

Anyone on a budget will find that the less powerful UTG 3-9×32 is a great choice and is very affordable. Its low price makes it our #2 choice. Our #3 choice, the UTG 4-16×44, is extremely powerful and is really its own demise. It’s so powerful and higher priced than our other picks that it came a little lower on the list.

Which model is best for you? Any one of these scopes will all do the job adequately, but the UTG 3-12×44 is our go-to choice for beginners and advanced shooters alike.

If you’re looking for another air rifle scope, you might want to consider the CVLife Tactical 3-9×40 Optics R4.

The length of time it takes for a deer to decompose varies greatly according to environmental factors around the carcass. A deer carcass that is left to decompose without interference from scavengers may take around six months to completely decompose to bones.

Scavengers play a very important role in the decomposition of deer. They help eat the flesh from the bones and scattered the pieces exposing them to other agents of decomposition.

By puncturing the skin, they help in the circulation of oxygen into and out of the body which plays a big role in its decomposition.

Weather is also known to affect the rate of decomposition. Carcasses are known to decompose faster during summer when temperatures are high. Cold temperatures are known to preserve the body.

What is Decomposition?

Decomposition is the process where dead organic matter is broken down into simple organic and inorganic matter

All organic matter once dead needs to be broken down. If this did not happen, bodies and dead plants would be all over the world.

Decomposition helps in returning nutrients ingested back to the ground. Farmers have been known to decompose compost and add it to their to the soil in their farm to increase nutrients in the soil. Dead leaves that decompose on the forest floor add nutrients back to the soil which helps the forest to thrive.

Factors That Influence The Rate of Decomposition

Various factors influence the rate of decomposition. Below are some of them.

1. Temperature

Warmer temperatures promote decay. This is because they are favorable for bacteria activities. Cold temperatures inhibit bacterial activity. It is not uncommon for decomposition not to occur at extreme cold temperatures.

2. Moisture

Research shows that moisture plays an important role in the decomposition of dead matter. The higher the moisture content in the carcass the faster it is able to decompose.

Mummification occurs when the body has low moisture content and is exposed to extremely high temperatures. The body is normally preserved at this state because bacterial activities are not able to complete.

3. Oxygen

Oxygen influences aerobic bacterial activity. This means that the higher the oxygen levels the faster the rate of decomposition.

4. Insects

Insects like blowflies are attracted to rotting matter. They lay their eggs on open surfaces of the carcass which hatch into maggots.

The maggots crawl into the body, damage soft tissue while burrowing into them, liquefying the body and increasing heat. They feed on the dead body and later on emerge as adult flies.

5. Season / Climate

During fly season decomposition rates are higher. This is because of the availability of more flies which means that more maggots will be present to helping the decomposition of the carcass.

6. Animal Activity

scavengers are known to pick through dead bodies and find whatever is edible and eat it. While feeding, they end up scattering some of the body parts exposing them to other agents off decomposition.

What Decomposes a Deer?

A class of animals known as decomposers are responsible for the breaking down of dead matter. They include, fungi, bacteria, worms and insects.

Decomposers are animals that get their energy by feeding on dead plants and animals. They are also known for breaking down animal waste from which they get energy.

They play a very important role of keeping energy flowing throughout the ecosystem. By breaking down organic matter into simpler inorganic matter they make nutrients available for primary consumers.

Worms do not necessarily fall under decomposers. They are commonly known as detritivores. Worms, unlike bacteria who absorb the nutrients directly from their surroundings, feed on and digest their food internally.

What Happens When a Deer Decomposes?

When a deer decomposes, their flesh, internal organs and skin is completely broken down leaving behind only bones which take longer to decompose.

The dead body passes through several stages before it is completely disintegrated too bones. Below at the five stages in which the body Undergoes.

Stage One: Fresh

This is the stage a few hours after the animal dies. Blood stop circulating throughout the body and the limbs start stiffening due to chemical changes in the muscles.

The remains are free of insects. Blood flows and settles on the lower side closest to the ground. Body temperatures either drop or rise to match those of the surroundings.

Stage Two: Bloat

It is during this stage that bacteria present in the human body begins to digest the tissues. This activity causes them to release gases that fill the body making it to bloat.

The body starts emitting a foul smell as the bacteria do their work. The pressure exerted by the gases in the body forces fluids out through openings in the body.

The foul smell attracts blowflies which come and lay their eggs in the body. The maggots hatch and start feeding on body tissues that detach from the skin causing it to slip.

Stage Three: Active Decay

As bacteria and insects breakdown muscles and other organs a lot of mass is lost. Liquids released into the surrounding also contributes to the loss of body mass.

Body tissues liquefy and the skin turns black.

Stage Four: Advanced Decay

It is during this stage that the decomposition of tissues and cells together with the liquefaction of the body is almost complete. Most of the remains have darkened.

A lot of nutrients have been released into the soil surrounding the body increasing its fertility.

Stage Five: Dry Remains

Most of the body tissues and skin have already been decomposed and all that remains is a dry skeleton with perhaps some hair left.

Insects like beetles come and eat anything that might be left. The bones change in color and lighten up because of exposure to the sun. They are eventually covered up and disappear into the earth.

What to Do with a Decomposing Deer?

It is advisable to try and dispose of the body before it starts decomposing. This is to avoid other animals coming into contact with the dead body and avoid the foul smell from filling the area.

When other animals accidentally come into contact with the deer they might get infected by diseases carried by the dead deer. The sickness might spread throughout the herd causing many animals to get sick and die.

The best thing to do is to try and bury the body leaving it to decompose in the soil. This will release nutrients directly into the soil while avoiding anything coming into contact with the body.

If the animal died in a hard to reach place like at the bottom of a ledge, you can speed up the decomposition process by piercing the skin, increasing air circulation in and out of the carcass.

To avoid the foul smell, try pouring large amounts of lime and if possible vinegar to neutralize the smell.

Related Deer Articles:

• Are Deer Rodents?
• Can Deer Be Domesticated?
• Why Do Deer Stare At You
• Do Deer Hibernate?

Conclusion

Deer decomposition has its own advantages as it means that nutrients are able to return to the earth which will be used by other organisms.

It however produces foul smells and attracts disease spreading insects like blowflies. It is however a natural process that must occur.

If you’re on the hunt for a long-range shooter in a new caliber that promises remarkable downrange ballistics, incredible energy retention, and is easy on the shoulder, pull the trigger (no pun intended) on Browning’s X-Bolt Speed LR.

Reviewing new rifles and calibers has always been near and dear to my writing heart. I love getting in a fancy-to-do new shooter with ammo that promises to be a ballistic marvel and putting it through the paces.

Some rifles and calibers, even wildcat calibers many raved over, did little for me. Call me old-fashioned, but it’s hard to beat tried-and-true legends like the .308 Win., .300 Rem. Mag., and .03-06 Sprg.

*This review was written without bias about the review of the Browning X-Bolt Speed LR. Affiliate links were placed in the article after it was written.

A few years back, a rifle arrived at my FFL chambered in 6.5 PRC. The 6.5 bore diameter was familiar; I had several 6.5 Creedmoors in the gun safe. Still, the new round from Hornady grabbed my attention.

Hornady touted the round as “the big brother of the 6.5 Creedmoor.” As sick as I was of the current Creedmoor fascination, I did (still do) love the caliber. It’s fast, flat-shooting, and uber-accurate.

The story behind the 6.5 PRC was a 200-plus feet-per-second increase over the Creedmoor in a bullet seated in a compact magnum cartridge. The PRC was engineered to put high-performance bullets on the mark at ridiculously long ranges and provide remarkable energy retention.

After a week of shooting the new rifle with Hornady’s 143 gr ELD-X Precision Hunter rounds, I fell in love. I anchored a couple of speed goats at long ranges and a big old muley that fall. I loved the velocity, terminal performance, and the lack of recoil the round produced.

A year or so ago, I started hearing rumblings about a new PRC, the 7mm PRC, to be exact, and Hornady was once again spearheading the mission.

When Browning’s Rafe Neilson asked me if I’d be interested in testing and hunting with the manufacturer’s X-Bolt Speed LR chambered in 7mm PRC, I jumped at it.

The Browning X-Bolt First Impressions

Tar and feather me, but you can’t beat the out-of-box factory performance of an X-bolt platform. I own six X-Bolts, and, spoiler alert, the Speed LR will be joining my collection.

The composite stock is airy and covered in Browning’s OVIX camo pattern, which I love, and the barrel and action are cloaked in a stylish Smoke Bronze Cerakote metal finish.

Aesthetics aside, the adjustable comb system on the stock and the extended bolt handle were other features that jumped out at me immediately. I love customization, and with a one-inch adjustment, I knew the comb would create ideal eye-to-scope alignment. This is critical with any rifle but especially essential if you make one and then brand it with LR (Long Range) capabilities. The gun may shoot far accurately, but for shooters to take advantage of advanced ballistics, the rifle needs an excellent build.

I also applaud the extended bolt handle. The X-Bolt’s short, rapid 60-degree throw is one of my favorite features. The Browning X Bolt Speed LR promises this same bolt throw, but with the bolt handle extended, reloading is faster and more efficient than ever before.

I appreciate that Browning fluted the sporter contour barrel on the X Bolt. Fluted barrels reduce weight and factor into the accuracy equation. The belled muzzle allows for standard, suppressor-ready threads, and the threaded muzzle brake is designed to reduce felt recoil drastically.

Make It So

I have a pair of open-country elk tags in my pocket this fall. While I will do my darndest to get as close as possible, I want to get prone and make a long shot if necessary.

For this reason, I topped the rifle with Leupold’s VX-5HD3-15×44. I have used this scope on other rifles, and Leupold takes the cake regarding optical ingenuity. Leupold scopes are tanks that resist weather and gather light like crazy, and many, like the VX-5HD, come with Leupold’s CDS-ZL2 dial. With this dial, shooters can gather intel requested by Leupold, send the dial in, and Leupold will send back a laser-marked bullet-drop dial that matches their exact ballistics.

There are lots of great ammo makers. My problem is I’m superstitious. I brought down the last big bull I took with a load from Federal Premium. For this test, I opted to tinker with a pair of Federal 7mm PRC makes — the ELD-X 175 Grain and Terminal Ascent 155 Grain. I’m a fan of both bullets, and while the 175-grain is a tad heavier for elk, I like the 3,100 fps muzzle velocity of the Terminal Ascent. Plus, the build of the Terminal Ascent bullet means extreme long-range expansion and short-range weight retention. I don’t want a long-range bullet that explodes on a bull’s side at close range due to the bullet’s velocity.

I mounted the scope with Leupold rings and bases, and after taking my time to level the scope and set my comb height, proper eye relief was obtained.

Field Test

I’m not a fan of burning through pricy ammo. For this reason, I bore sight rifles at 200 yards. I place a 6-inch diameter steel orange plate at 200 yards, lock my gun down in a BOG DeathGrip, and remove the bolt. With the bolt removed, I adjust the tripod, line the barrel hole up with the center of the plate, lock the tripod down, and walk the crosshairs in. If the rifle is worth its salt, this system typically puts the first shot on the plate. I add a cardboard backing, so if I miss the plate, I know by how much.

My first shot with Federal’s ELD-X 175 Grain smacked the plate low and left. After adjusting my scope, the next shot from 200 yards hit the steel target’s center.

Wanting to let the barrel cool and go through the proper channels, I used Real Avid’s Master Gun WorkStation and some cleaning materials to swab the barrel and cool it down.

Back on the range, I moved to 300 yards, did some dial tweaking based on the drop Federal brands on their ammo boxes, kept the rifle in the BOG, and sent another at the plate. Bingo! The sweet sound of steel. This rifle is an out-of-the-box shooter. The trigger is butter — shots break clean and smooth — and recoil is mild. The last thing I want to consider is recoil, and the Inflex recoil pad blended with the muzzle break drastically reduces it.

I shot the rifle for two days and went through 20 rounds of Terminal Ascent and 20 rounds of ELD-X. The rifle’s 1:8 twist rate favored both rounds. Naturally, the 155-grain had less drop, and not being able to send in my CDS dial ahead of time to Leupold, I stopped testing at 600 yards. With the 175-grain ELD-X, I stopped sending lead at 500 yards.

Both rounds are extremely capable, and though I’m not sure which one will be my elk killer, I want to note this rifle is accurate as the day is long. It builds shooting confidence, which is everything when trying to put lead on the mark at extended ranges. I give the rifle a 5-star rating, and I can’t wait to see how it performs in the coming months.

Browning X-Bolt Speed LR 7mm PRC Specs:

Action Length: Long Barrel Length: 26 in. Overall Length: 46 3/4 in. Weight: 7.3 pounds Magazine Capacity: Removable, 3-round Twist Rate: 1:8 Barrel Finish: Smoked Bronze Cerakote Receiver Finish: Smoked Bronze Cerakote Stock Finish: Ovix Stock Material: Composite Recoil Pad: Inflex 1 Drilled and Tapped: Yes MSRP: $1,479.99

It seems as though there aren’t many new methods for taking a buck these days. It almost seems as though every tactic for killing big bucks has already been brought to the table. That is what I thought until I spoke with Iowans Todd Pringnitz and Ted Miller from White Knuckle Productions. What they taught me was that there is an exciting new method out there for drawing in bucks. It is the horizontal rub post. That’s right. Horizontal.

We are all familiar with rubs. They are as commonplace in the deer woods as the deer themselves, but rarely does hunting rubs alone bring in a buck. Horizontal rub posts do. They were the creation of Ted Miller, and he actually discovered them by mere happenstance.

While filming elk in Yellowstone National Forest nearly ten years ago, Miller got repeated footage of bulls that were attracted to certain areas with blown down trees. They would rub their antlers on those trees or on branches shooting out horizontally. He wasn’t looking for this behavior at all. He was just observant enough to pick up on what the elk were doing, and it got him thinking, “I wonder if I can try this at home on whitetails.”

When he returned home he started putting his idea to work. What he found was pretty interesting. “I didn’t have any experience making these posts, so for my very first one, I went to one of my food plots and drove two posts into the ground and wired a limb to the posts about knee high or a little higher,” he recalls. “That was back when trail cameras were really just catching on. I didn’t have a trail camera at the time, so I just went back two or three days later and checked on it.” The limb had been worked.

So, he set up a ground blind at that spot, and on his first night sitting in the blind with his son, a large buck came and worked the post right in front of them. They got some good video footage of the deer working the rub but when it came time to shoot, the deer spooked. Regardless, the experience was one Miller will never forget, and is likely the very first time a hunter has ever used a horizontal rub post. It set the stage for many more such encounters for Miller. “That was the very first one I ever did and over the years I have figured out what the deer like and want out of them. I have been able to improve them along the way.”

The Limb Matters

The main thing that Miller found was that the type of limb can make all the difference. “Most hunters in Iowa were using cedar trees in their posts. The adage is that bucks prefer to rub on cedars, but they weren’t having a lot of success with them. I have found that Scotch pine limbs work the best.” The reasons are brilliant when you think about it.

First, when using scotch pines, there is no need to cut down the whole tree as you would with a cedar. Mature scotch pines are bigger, allowing you to simply cut off a limb rather than take the whole tree. Plus, they are not native to the area. They are more of a Christmas tree and are planted and easy to find if you look around. Miller has several planted in his yard, making finding them a cinch!

He also notes that the limbs should be about the size of your wrist or slightly larger in diameter so they won’t break when a buck gets aggressive with it.

Another thing that he has learned over the years – and probably the most important thing – is that once you find the limb you are going to use, cut it longer than the gap between your posts. “I like to run my limb about two feet or so past one end of my posts so it sticks out from the end on the side I want the bucks to work. I found that they prefer working the end that is sticking out past the posts much more than they do the part of the limb that lies between the posts. I think it is just more convenient for them.”

Another trick that he has discovered is to attach the limb loosely to the posts so it has some play in it. “Different bucks have different personalities. Some like to get aggressive and fight with it a little bit, so when I wire my limb up, I do so that it will move up and down about six inches to a foot or so. This gives it some give and allows the limb to rock up and down when a buck wants to fight with it and such.”

The last couple of years Miller has been adding a licking branch to his horizontal rub posts. “I just run another limb above it to act as a sign post. I’m just trying to give a buck everything that he wants in order to hold his attention.” He usually just attaches the licking branch above the end of the limb that sticks out past the post, but he says that if your posts are tall enough you can attach it to one of them and have it hang down. Or, you can also position your set-up underneath a tree that has a limb hanging down above your horizontal limb. Any situation will work.

An Added Benefit

A really great thing about using these rub posts is that they actually hold a deer in a certain spot for a while. A great plus for Miller who enjoys getting video footage of deer. “It’s really hard to get a buck to stop long enough to get any decent footage of him, but with these rubs, they tend to stay there and work it for a little bit. This really helps me out when I am filming. It also allows you to learn a lot about buck behavior.”

What Bucks Use It?

Miller has seen everything from spikes to Boone and Crockett bucks use his horizontal rubs, so no matter what type of buck you are after, it will work. He does note, however, that some bucks, especially smaller ones, will come in cautiously as they might be intimidated at first. But nonetheless, it attracts bucks of all calibers.

Scent?

Nope. Miller doesn’t use any on his limbs, noting that the Scotch pine itself is a sticky, sappy type of tree anyway and will absorb and hold the scent of the deer that use it. That is all that is required to help draw more deer in.

Where and When to Use It

Obviously they are most effective towards the rut, but they are effective earlier than that as well. Miller notes that bucks will begin hitting them as soon as they shed their velvet, although the most active times are from mid-October until the rut is completed, so be sure to set yours up around the first of October or so.

As for where to place your horizontal rubs, Miller doesn’t feel that a buck is going to get up and walk a half-mile just to hit it, so he says to set them up anywhere you feel that bucks want to be or in areas where you plan to hunt and see high buck activity. Food plots and staging areas are prime examples.

The Bottom Line

Miller found his horizontal rub post system by accident, and he has perfected it over the years. In my opinion, this may be one of the most under-utilized tactics for drawing in bucks, and perhaps, one you should be trying this fall.

To learn more about Miller’s horizontal rub posts, check out www.whiteknuckleproductions.com.

I’ve often said that if I could forage only one wild food, it would have to be ramps. These wild leeks are delectable, and I love them sautéed, in ramp soup, in frittata, and in this delicious wild ramp salt.

Identifying Ramps

Ramps, also known as wild leeks (Allium tricoccum), are found in the eastern U.S. I generally find them on north facing slopes under deciduous trees in late April or early May.

Each ramp plant has 2 – 3 broad leaves with entire (smooth) margins. The bulbs are white, and the stems may be white or burgundy. One of the most important identifying characteristics of the ramp is its garlic aroma. Crush a leaf; if you don’t smell garlic, you don’t have ramps.

Beware of the lily-of-the-valley, a poisonous look-alike.

Foraging Ramps

Unfortunately, ramps are among the most controversial of all foraged delights. Post an article on social media about ramps, and you’re sure to get trashed, one way or another.

There are those who are completely against any harvesting of ramps, and others who insist that only the leaf, and not the bulb should be harvested. I understand. Big city restaurants pay top dollar for ramps, and consequently they are over-harvested.

My advice is to harvest based on your location, and the number of ramps growing. Never take more than you can use, leave some for others, and most importantly make sure the patch from which you are harvesting is treated with respect so that the ramps can reproduce and provide for others for generations to come.

That said, I do personally harvest both the bulb and leaf. Where I harvest, there are acres and acres of wild ramps, and we take very few. If ramps are scarce in your area, don’t harvest at all. If you find a nice patch, but it’s the only patch around, then I suggest that you only harvest one leaf from each plant and leave plenty so that the patch can continue to reproduce.

Another important tip for harvesting is to harvest in the middle of the patch where the ramps are crowded. Leave the ramps at the edges of the patch alone, so that they can continue to spread out.

And I also always scrub my digging tool before heading into the woods so that I don’t bring any disease from my garden into the woods. I then carefully dig a bulb here, and a bulb there, being careful to replace any displaced soil. After leaving the patch, no one should be able to tell that you were there.

Lastly, some foragers advise harvesting the ramps by cutting just above the roots. The thinking is that you still get the bulb, but leave the roots to grow again. I did practice this method for a year or two, but it was suggested to me that I was potentially introducing disease into the patch with this method and so I no longer harvest this way.

Wild Ramp Salt

Wild ramp salt may used as a finishing salt to add extra flavor to any savory dish, or as a rub for meat. To make, first dehydrate your washed ramp leaves by placing them in a dehydrator in a single layer at 100°F for 4 – 6 hours until brittle. (I use an Excalibur dehydrator).

Then powder them in a blender (I use a bullet blender), coffee grinder, or mortar and pestle.

Then simply mix 2 parts ramp powder to 1 part fine sea salt.

More Posts on Foraging You’ll Love

Ramps and Potato Soup

Ramps and Garlic Mustard Frittata

Oven Roasted Potatoes on a Bed of Pine

Homemade Blueberry Mead

Low-Sugar Elderberry Jelly

Dandelion Oil Lotion Bars

5 Common Plants to Forage for Food and Home Remedies

The following ammunition cartridge ballistics information and chart can be used to approximately compare 10mm Auto vs .454 Casull ammo rounds. Please note, the following information reflects the estimated average ballistics for each caliber and does not pertain to a particular manufacturer, bullet weight, or jacketing type. As such, the following is for comparative information purposes only and should not be used to make precise predictions of the trajectory, performance, or true ballistics of any particular 10mm Auto or .454 Casull rounds for hunting, target shooting, plinking, or any other usage. The decision for which round is better for a given application should be made with complete information, and this article simply serves as a comparative guide, not the final say. For more detailed ballistics information please refer to the exact round in question or contact the manufacturer for the pertinent information. True 10mm Auto and .454 Casull ballistics information can vary widely from the displayed information, and it is important to understand that the particular characteristics of a given round can make a substantive difference in its true performance.

Caliber Type Velocity (fps) Energy (ft-lb) 10mm Auto Handgun 1200 550 .454 Casull Handgun 1600 1700

Velocity

As illustrated in the chart, 10mm Auto rounds – on average – achieve a velocity of about 1200 feet per second (fps) while .454 Casull rounds travel at a velocity of 1600 fps. To put this into perspective, a Boeing 737 commercial airliner travels at a cruising speed of 600 mph, or 880 fps. That is to say, 10mm Auto bullets travel 1.4 times the speed of a 737 airplane at cruising speed, while .454 Casull bullets travel 1.8 times that same speed.

Various calibers

Energy

Furthermore, the muzzle energy of a 10mm Auto round averages out to 550 ft-lb, while a .454 Casull round averages out to about 1700 ft-lb. One way to think about this is as such: a foot-pound is a unit of energy equal to the amount of energy required to raise a weight of one pound a distance of one foot. So a 10mm Auto round exits the barrel with kinetic energy equal to the energy required for linear vertical displacement of 550 pounds through a one foot distance, while a .454 Casull round exiting the barrel has energy equal to the amount required to displace 1700 pounds over the same one foot distance. As a rule of thumb, when it comes to hunting, muzzle energy is what many hunters look at when deciding on what caliber of firearm / ammunition to select. Generally speaking, the higher the muzzle energy, the higher the stopping power. Again, the above is for comparative information purposes only, and you should consult the exact ballistics for the particular 10mm Auto or .454 Casull cartridge you’re looking at purchasing.

Please click the above links to take a look at all of the 10mm Auto and .454 Casull ammo we have in stock and ready to ship, and let us know any parting thoughts in the comment section below.

Foundry Outdoors is your trusted home for buying archery, camping, fishing, hunting, shooting sports, and outdoor gear online.

We offer cheap ammo and bulk ammo deals on the most popular ammo calibers. We have a variety of deals on Rifle Ammo, Handgun Ammo, Shotgun Ammo & Rimfire Ammo, as well as ammo for target practice, plinking, hunting, or shooting competitions. Our website lists special deals on 9mm Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 45-70 Ammo, 6.5 Creedmoor ammo, 300 Blackout Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 5.56 Ammo, Underwood Ammo, Buffalo Bore Ammo and more special deals on bulk ammo.

We offer a 100% Authenticity Guarantee on all products sold on our website. Please email us if you have questions about any of our product listings.

YOU ARE OPERATING INSIDE A fire building when suddenly you discover that you are lost, disoriented, and separated from your crew. As you attempt to locate a wall or a window, you come in contact with a hoseline. Which way is out? If you locate the coupling, you can determine which direction leads to the exit. Or can you?

The procedure for following the hoseline to safety in Essentials of Fire Fighting states, “Follow the hoseline out if possible (the male coupling is the closest to the exit; the female is the closest to the fire).”1

Yet time and again during training, when firefighters find the hoseline and follow it to the coupling, they become hesitant and indecisive: Which coupling leads out? I have seen firefighters attempt to uncouple a hoseline to determine which coupling has the swivel. I have seen too many firefighters turn toward the fire and wind up at the nozzle when they could have been out of the building had they gone in the opposite direction. When members are questioned about the problems encountered at the coupling, many times the response is that they just didn’t remember or fully understand the way it was explained in the text.

1. Photos by author. Click here to enlarge image

If the firefighter does remember to follow the male coupling out, there may still be confusion once the coupling is located. If the firefighter is at the midpoint of the hose between couplings, the first coupling he will encounter on the way toward the exit will be the female. The firefighter understood that he was to follow the male end to the exit, so that firefighter turns in the other direction and heads toward the male end, toward the fire. Many have stated that they have a good grasp of the concept until their face piece is obscured.

2. Click here to enlarge image

Here’s a simple memory aid I learned and have shared that seems to have helped firefighters remember the proper direction toward the exit: Bumps to the pumps. If the firefighter finds the hoseline and follows it to the coupling, the bumps (lugs) lead to the pumps (engine on the exterior) (photos 1, 2). It’s easy to remember and understand and reduces or eliminates the confusion and hesitation at the coupling. When a firefighter is low on air, disoriented and alone, the time spent at the coupling may be more time than he can afford to be able to get out safely. It also reduces the anxiety of being unable to determine the proper way out. This translates into better air management for the firefighter in distress.

Of course, this method is not a cure-all for every situation and every circumstance. It works best with threaded couplings that have rocker lugs. The male coupling has lugs on the shank. The female coupling has a smooth shank with lugs on the swivel (photo 3). The firefighter can feel the rocker lugs with a gloved hand under zero visibility conditions and determine the proper direction to the exit.

3. Click here to enlarge image

Some may ask about a situation in which the hose is advanced into a structure with the female end first. If this is the situation, the firefighter will have to identify this situation prior to entering the building. Some departments may use attack hose with storz-type couplings. In this situation, there will be no male or female couplings (photo 4). In this case, it will be difficult to determine the direction of the exit. However, devices that indicate the way toward the exit are commercially available. For example, one such device that can be slipped over a hose has a raised arrow marking a firefighter can feel to determine the direction of the exit. This may be a good alternative for your situation.

4. Click here to enlarge image

A quick drill on this technique involves using a single length of hose and a firefighter wearing gloves. Connect the couplings to create a continuous loop (photo 5). Place the firefighter at the midpoint of the hoseline, and have him follow the hose to the coupling. When the member reaches the coupling, ask him to determine, without looking at the coupling, whether he is headed in the direction of the exit.

5. Click here to enlarge image

As with all other firefighter survival techniques, this method needs to be practiced to develop and maintain a high level of proficiency. A thorough knowledge of your department’s equipment and procedures is important. Being familiar with any mutual-aid department’s equipment is equally important.

• • •

Perhaps you have heard of this method before. Perhaps you do not like it or feel more comfortable with your own. I’ve found that this works for me and has helped those who have had problems during training evolutions. What is most important is that if things go wrong, you are able to determine which way is out. ■

Endnote

1. Essentials of Fire Fighting, fourth edition. Stillwater, OK: Fire Protection Publications, 1998, 108.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR- ■ MICHAEL ALLORA is a lieutenant and a 10-year veteran with the Clifton (NJ) Fire Department. He is a Level 2 fire instructor at the Passaic and Sussex counties’ public safety academies. Allora has an associate’s degree in fire science from Passaic County Community College.

ORIGINAL POST: http://www.fireengineering.com/articles/print/volume-159/issue-2/departments/training-notebook/following-hose-couplings.html

Popularity of this tuna among recreational fishing community growing.

I’m sure everyone knows how to set a trotline, but there could be some easy tricks you’re missing out on that will put more fish in the boat. I’ve been setting trotlines all my life but, through the years, my methods have improved immensely through trial and error.

To begin, think big catfish don’t taste good? Then think again. It’s all about the way you cook ’em up. Even at most restaurants when you think you’re eating small catfish, its usually big ones sliced thin. The most important factor is to cut out all the red meat.

After filleting I like to soak them in a half vinegar, half ice-water solution, and then rinse thoroughly with water before packing.

For pan frying in olive oil or deep frying, slice them really thin and marinate them with olive oil and seasonings. Baking them in the oven coated with Panko bread crumb crust works well, too.

My favorite way to eat them is in a good, spicy, slow-cooked catfish courtbouillon along with a few pounds of crabmeat and other seafood thrown in as well. If cooked down, the catfish will fall apart and blend perfectly with the crabmeat.

So try these methods before throwing that tasty fish back in the water.

The first step for a trotline is cutting your pickets. I like to have one around 10 to 12 feet and another around 15 to 18 feet depending on the depth of the water. The best way to position your pickets is to find the back of a bend in a bayou where the current cuts the bottom deep within just a few feet of the bank. The catfish are usually on these hard drop-offs.

Don’t waste your time putting the line across the canal, because as soon as a big log drifts with the current your line will break, plus you won’t have as many hooks in the prime spot.

Put the short pole close to the bank and put the longer one about a third of the way out toward the middle, stretching the line up and down the canal bank. A benefit of some of the shallower hooks is that you can catch choupic, garfish and softshell turtles, as well.

After the first few runs you’ll see if you’re catching near the deeper or shallow end of the line, and then you can reposition a picket so the majority of the line is in the most-productive area.

You may be pleasantly surprised when nearly all your hooks have a catfish on them just because of proper depth placement of the line.

I like to keep the line around 20 to 40 yards long so you keep a good, solid tension. Longer lines tend to lose their hook-setting power.

I also like to keep hooks about 3 to 4 feet from one another. I don’t like to space them too far apart in case a fish steals one bait; another bait will be close, and you’ll probably have many hooks in the best drop-off position instead of only a couple.

Tie the main line about halfway down the picket before setting it in the mud so that the line is suspended instead of too high or on the bottom. I find a bait on the bottom will be less productive because the fish won’t pull downward like with a suspended hook. When a fish takes the bait on a suspended hook and flees downward, it becomes hooked.

Next, a pull string makes checking the line a breeze. Since the main line is tied down the picket, forget trying to reach under the water with a paddle, just tie a line to the top the picket and connect it a few feet down the main line before or to the swivel leaving some slack. This quick tip will save tons of time reaching for the main line.

Always remember to set the main line before putting the hooks on.

I use a 5/0 trotline hook, which is strong enough to hold a monster fish if my pickets have enough give. But it still can straighten if I pull on a main line that is caught on a log; that way, I don’t have to cut the line.

Forget using too much terminal tackle and swivels on every hook. I use heavy rope for the main line, using a quick loop knot. For the hook line, I use a smaller nylon rope with a loop knot on the end. You quickly put the hook-line loop through the main-line loop and pull the hook through the hook-line loop, and the hook is on in a second and can be taken off just as quickly.

To keep the fish from twisting themselves on the line, I tie a big heavy-duty swivel to the main line about 3 to 4 feet away from each picket. Nothing can get twisted this way, and it makes removing the main line a breeze. I use a floating noodle to put all of my hooks on so nothing ever gets tangled.

Everyone knows catfish eat just about any bait, but what is the best? In my experience, cut mullet and perch catches big ones but not as many, while small poggies and other oily shad catch the most.

The problem is that these poggies fall off too easy, so I use the best of both worlds. I hook a small piece of cut fish, making sure to go through the tough skin, and then I take a small poggies and bury the point of the hook in it. Even if the poggie gets nibbled off that chunk of fish will remain until one bites.

Two or three throws with the cast net will usually land me several hundred small poggies. I precut the fish chunk and poggies, and freeze them in Ziplocs so my bait is always ready to go. If catching perch or mullets is a problem, I recommend cutting belly meat into 1-inch chunks, leaving the skin on, while cleaning fish. This normally wasted portion of the carcass can help you catch many catfish.

Try setting out a few trotlines this way, and your freezer can stay full of catfish filets all year long. And don’t forget to bring the landing net with you!

If you have a hole or tear in your mesh fabric, don’t worry! You can mend it yourself with a few simple steps. First, locate the hole or tear. Then, cut out the faulty section of the mesh fabric with a pair of scissors.

Finally, use a seam ripper to remove any unwanted stitches from the hole or tear. Now you’re ready to mend your mesh fabric.

Source: ifixit

How To Mend Mesh Fabric

If you have a torn mesh fabric, the first thing you should do is clean the area with soap and water. Then, apply adhesive tape in a crosshatch pattern and press mesh onto the adhesive tape.

Allow to dry.

Clean Area With Soapy Water And Clorox

Cleaning mesh fabric is easier than you think. All you need is soap and water, and a few drops of clorox. Soak the mesh for about five minutes in warm soapy water, then rinse it off with cool water.

Don’t use hot water or bleach on mesh fabric because it can damage the material. When washing your mesh fabric, make sure to get all the dirt, dust, and stains off of it. Always shake out any excess water before hanging or placing your mesh piece back on the rack.

If needed, you can spot clean areas on the fabric with a damp cloth or sponge. To keep your mesh looking new, avoid getting liquids and moisture onto it; this will cause fading and wear over time. Make sure to store your mesh fabric away from direct sunlight and heat sources to avoid damaging it even further.

Apply Adhesive Tape In A Crosshatch Pattern

If you have a mesh fabric shirt that needs to be mended, there is an easy way to do it. First, take the shirt to a dry cleaner and ask them to remove the stain or damage. Next, apply adhesive tape in a crosshatch pattern to the affected area.

Then wait for the adhesive to set before removing it. Repeat this process on any other areas of the shirt that need attention. Finally, wash the shirt as usual and enjoy your newly repaired clothing item! Adhesive tape can be used on most fabrics, so be creative when applying it so that it doesn’t look too noticeable.

Keep in mind that adhesive tape will not last forever, so replace it regularly as needed. And last but not least, remember to always test a small area first before using it on a larger piece of clothing! Mending mesh fabric can be a simple task with the right tools and instructions—and sometimes just some patience.

Press Mesh Onto Adhesive Tape

When repairing mesh fabric, it is important to adhere the mesh to adhesive tape in order to prevent it from shifting or tearing during the repair process. To do this, first take a piece of adhesive tape and place it on one side of the mesh fabric.

Then carefully place the mesh over the adhesive tape, making sure that all edges are fully covered. Next, press down firmly on the mesh with your hands so that it adheres tightly to the adhesive tape. Finally, use a sharp object such as a knife to make any necessary cuts in the mesh fabric if needed.

Be careful not to puncture the adhesive tape when performing this step! Repeat these steps for any other areas of the mesh that need repairs. Once all repairs have been made, dry the mesh completely before re- installing into your garment or home decor project

Allow To Dry

If you notice any threads coming out of the mesh fabric, don’t panic. All you need to do is gently pull on the threads until all the evidence of the fray is gone. Once all the threads are pulled out, allow the fabric to dry completely before continuing with your project.

If there are still visible strands or holes in the mesh, fill them with a patching material and sew it down. When repairing mesh fabric, be sure to use a thread that matches the color of your mesh fabric and avoid using too much tension when stitching. After completing your repair, be sure to wash and dry your repaired fabric properly to avoid further wear and tear.

Remember: never leave mesh fabrics unattended while they are being patched – they can become damaged even faster if left untreated! And finally, if you ever have any questions about how to mend mesh fabric or any other sewing emergencies, don’t hesitate to reach out for help.

Remove The Fabric From The Mesh

Remove the fabric from the mesh by following these simple steps: Pry off the adhesive with a flathead screwdriver or scraper. Be careful not to cut yourself on the sharp edges of the adhesive residue.

Wipe down any dust or debris that may have gathered on the mesh during removal. Place a new piece of adhesive onto the mesh and press it into place firmly with your fingers or a blunt tool such as a Credit Card.

Hold in place for seconds, then release the mesh and gently pull off the adhesive backing. If necessary, reposition and re- adhere the fabric to ensure a tight fit against the mesh surface. Finally, use a vacuum cleaner to clean up any leftover adhesive residue.

Repair The Fabric With Sewing Supplies

If you’ve got a tear or hole in your mesh fabric, there are a few supplies that you need to mend it with. Bias tape is one of the most common supplies used to repair mesh fabric because it’s both strong and flexible.

You can use sewing needles and thread to sew the bias tape directly onto the mesh fabric. Once you have sewn the bias tape in place, use a hot iron to press it down and seal the repairs. Finally, use a seam ripper to remove any unwanted stitches or threads from the repaired area.

If you don’t want to rely on bias tape for your repairs, there are other options available such as Velcro strips or zippers. Always test a new repair before you go all-in and start stitching! If something goes wrong while you’re repairing your mesh fabric, be sure to have some replacement supplies on hand in case needed.

Be patient when repairing mesh fabric-it may take some time but it will definitely last longer if done correctly! When repairing mesh fabric, always make sure that there are no loose threads or areas that could come loose during wear and tear.

Wash And Dry The Fabric

When it comes to repairing mesh fabric, the most important thing to remember is to wash and dry it as soon as possible. Soak the fabric in warm water for a few minutes before washing it with your regular detergent.

Rinse the fabric thoroughly and then hang it to dry. If there are holes or tears in the fabric, patch them as soon as possible using a seam binding or zigzag stitch. If you notice any fading or yellowing of the fabric, treat it with a laundry stain remover before laundering it again.

Make sure that you store your repaired mesh fabric in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources. And lastly, if you ever have any questions about how to mend mesh fabric, don’t hesitate to ask a professional.

Apply A Patch

If you have a tear in your mesh fabric, the first step is to try to mend it yourself. There are a few different ways that you can mend mesh fabric, and each one has its own advantages and disadvantages.

One of the most common methods for repairing mesh fabric is by using a patch. When using a patch, be sure to follow the instructions that come with it so that the repair will last. Another option is to have your mesh fabric replaced entirely.

This is usually the best solution if the tear is large or multiple pieces of mesh have been damaged. If you choose not to replace the mesh fabric, be sure to keep the repair clean and free from moisture so that it lasts longer. Finally, if you do manage to mend your mesh fabric on your own, be sure to document the repairs so that you can re-create them if needed in the future.

Always remember: when repairing mesh fabric, take care not to stretch or tear the underlying fabric. If your are repairing pant fabrics, be careful doing so as they are expansive.

Conclusion

The best way to mend mesh fabric is by using a safe and effective method such as steam.