If you are an avid outdoors enthusiast or a survivalist, you know that having the right gear is crucial to your success. One of the most important tools in your arsenal is a good bushcraft saw. Whether you’re camping, hiking, or backpacking, a bushcraft or survival saw can be incredibly useful for cutting firewood, clearing trails, and more. But with so many options on the market, it can be overwhelming to choose the best one for your needs. In this ultimate guide, we will explore everything you need to know about choosing the best bushcraft saw for survival and wilderness adventures.

What is a bushcraft saw?

Before we dive into how to choose the best bushcraft saw, let’s first define what it is. A bushcraft saw, or survival saw, is a type of saw that is specifically designed for use in the outdoors. It is typically smaller and more portable than a traditional saw, axe, or hatchet, making it easier to carry with you on hikes or camping trips. Bushcraft saws come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and they are often used for cutting through small to medium-sized branches and logs.

Why is having a good bushcraft saw important?

A bushcraft saw is a vital tool for anyone who spends time in the outdoors or in the wilderness. It can be used for a variety of tasks, including:

• Building shelter
• Gathering firewood
• Clearing trails
• Processing game
• Making tools and other items

Without a good bushcraft saw, these tasks can be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to accomplish. Having the right survival saw can make all the difference in a wilderness survival situation.

Best Bushcraft Saws for Survival

Now that you know what factors to consider when choosing a bushcraft saw, let’s take a look at some of the top bushcraft saws on the market:

Agawa Boreal21 Folding Bow Saw – EDITOR’S CHOICE – Best Bushcraft Saw – Overall

The Agawa Boreal21 Folding Saw is a versatile and durable saw designed for outdoor enthusiasts. The saw has a 21-inch blade that’s made from high-quality hardened stainless steel, making it tough enough to cut through hard wood and thick branches with ease. The handle folds and snaps into place during assembly, without even needing to touch the blade, and the trapezium-shaped frame geometry increases the range of motion while sawing. Additionally, it offers good clearance above the saw blade, allowing you to cut through larger logs without having to change the angle.

One of the standout features of the Agawa Boreal21 Folding Saw is its folding design. The saw can be folded down to a compact size, making it easy to carry in your backpack or pocket. When you need to use it, simply unfold the saw, and it’s ready to use. The saw also comes with a durable nylon sheath that makes it easy to store and transport.

This saw is also lightweight, coming in at 18.7 ounces. The only downside is that it’s a bit pricier than some of its competitors, but its quality construction, ease of use, and sharp cutting action might just pay off in the long run.

An alternative to the AGAWA folding bow saw is the Gerber Gear Freescape Camp Saw.

Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Saw – Best Budget-Friendly Bushcraft Folding Saw

If you’re looking for a reliable, efficient saw for your bushcraft trip, the Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Saw is an excellent choice. The Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Pruning Saw features a 10-inch blade that utilizes pull-back action. The saw blade’s 3-sided razor teeth easily cut through small to medium branches up to 6 inches in diameter. The replaceable curved blade folds into the handle and the saw features a safety lock to prevent accidental opening when not in use. The Corona RazorTOOTH Saw Folding Saw also has a comfortable, ergonomic grip that reduces hand fatigue and makes it easy to use for extended periods of time.

The Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Pruning Saw is a durable and affordable option for those on a budget. While it may not be suitable for heavy-duty tasks or thicker branches, it is a great choice for most wood-cutting tasks you’ll face in the wilderness.

Silky Bigboy Folding Saw – Best Survival Saw for Thicker Wood

If you anticipate the need to cut down larger branches or small trees on your next bushcraft trip, the Silky Bigboy Folding Saw may be the right bushcraft saw for the trip. The Silky Bigboy Folding Saw features a 14.2-inch curved blade made from premium Japanese steel. The laser-cut, extra large blade teeth provide efficient cutting of even dry, hardwood. The handle of the saw is rubber-cushioned for comfort and improved grip.

While it’s one of the larger folding saws on the market, the Bigbog saw weighs in at just 1lb. Overall, the Silky Bigboy Folding Saw is a high-quality saw that offers excellent cutting performance and durability. Its large blade size and curved design make it a great option for a variety of cutting tasks, and its lightweight and folding design make it easy to carry and store.

HME Pocket Chainsaw Survival Saw

The Hunting Made Easy (HME) Pocket Chainsaw is designed for convenience and portability. Its compact and lightweight design allows it to easily fold up for storage in a backpack or pocket. Heavy-duty nylon handles provide a secure grip to the 36-inch high carbon steel chain. The chain features bi-directional cutting teeth to help it tackle tough cutting jobs in the wilderness, allowing you to easily cut through branches and logs.

The HME Pocket Chainsaw is perfect for those who will need to cut wood but don’t want the weight or bulk of a larger folding saw or axe.

Sven Folding Saw

The Sven Saw is a classic camping and bushcraft saw that has been around for over 60 years. Available in either a 21-inch blade or a 15-inch blade, the Sven Saw features a unique, all-metal folded saw design. The saws fold into a compact, ruler-like form that’s just 1.5″ wide and 5/8″ thick. The Sven Saws are also very lightweight, with the 21″ saw weighing less than 14 ounces and the 15″ Sven Saw weighing 11 ounces. The Swedish steel blades are crafted to last for 15-30 years and can easily cut through trunks or branches for firewood, clearing trails, and more.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Bushcraft Saw

When choosing a bushcraft saw, there are several factors to consider. Here are some of the most important ones:

Blade Types: Finding the Right Saw for Your Needs

The blade is one of the most important components of a bushcraft saw. There are several different blade types to choose from, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. Here are a few of the most common blade types you’ll encounter when shopping for a bushcraft saw:

• Crosscut Blades: These blades have teeth that are angled towards the handle, which makes them ideal for cutting across the grain of the wood. They’re typically used for cutting smaller branches and limbs.
• Rip Blades: Rip blades have teeth that are angled perpendicular to the handle, which makes them better suited for cutting with the grain of the wood. They’re typically used for cutting larger logs and branches.
• Combination Blades: As the name suggests, combination blades offer the best of both worlds. They have teeth that are angled towards the handle on one side and perpendicular on the other, making them versatile enough to handle a variety of cutting tasks.

Handle Materials: Comfort and Durability in the Wilderness

The handle of your bushcraft saw is another important factor to consider. It should be comfortable to hold, even after extended use, and durable enough to withstand the rigors of the outdoors. Here are a few of the most common handle materials you’ll encounter:

• Wood: Wooden handles are comfortable to grip and can be customized to fit your hand. However, they may not be as durable as other materials and can be prone to cracking or splitting over time.
• Plastic: Plastic handles are lightweight and durable, making them a popular choice for many outdoor enthusiasts. They may not be as comfortable to hold as other materials, but they’re typically very affordable.
• Rubber: Rubber handles provide a good grip, even in wet or slippery conditions. They’re also comfortable to hold and can be very durable. However, they may be more expensive than other handle materials.

Saw Size and Weight: Balancing Portability and Cutting Power

The size and weight of your bushcraft saw will also play a role in how well it performs in the outdoors. A larger saw will typically be more powerful and able to cut through larger logs and branches, but it will also be heavier and more cumbersome to carry. A smaller saw, on the other hand, will be more portable but may not have as much cutting power.

When choosing a saw, it’s important to find the right balance between size and weight. Consider the types of tasks you’ll be using your saw for, as well as how far you’ll need to carry it, to determine the best size and weight for your needs.

Folding vs. Fixed Blade Saws: Which One is Right for You?

One of the biggest decisions you’ll need to make when choosing a bushcraft saw is whether to go with a folding or fixed blade design. Both types have their pros and cons, so it’s important to weigh them carefully before making a decision.

Folding saws are typically more portable than fixed blade saws since they can be folded up and easily stored in a backpack or gear bag. They’re also generally safer to carry, since the blade can be folded away when not in use. However, folding saws may not be as durable or as strong as fixed blade saws, and they may not be able to handle heavy-duty cutting tasks.

Fixed blade saws, on the other hand, are typically stronger and more durable than folding saws. They’re often designed with larger, more powerful blades that can handle heavy-duty cutting tasks with ease. However, they can be more cumbersome to carry, and the blade is always exposed, which can be a safety concern.

Different types of Bushcraft Saws

Choosing the best bushcraft saw requires an understanding of the different types of saws available and how they can benefit your needs.

1. Folding Saw

Folding saws are one of the most popular types of bushcraft saws. They are compact and lightweight, making them easy to carry in a backpack or pocket. Folding saws typically have a blade that folds into the handle for safe storage and transport.

Folding saws come in a variety of blade lengths and tooth patterns, which can affect their cutting ability. Generally, they are ideal for cutting through smaller branches and logs. Some folding saws have aggressive teeth for cutting through thicker branches, while others have finer teeth for smoother cuts.

2. Bow Saws

Bow saws are another type of bushcraft saw that has been used for centuries. A bow saw is a type of frame saw that features a long, straight blade attached to a frame that is shaped like a bow. The main benefit of bow saws is their ability to cut through larger pieces of wood quickly and efficiently. However, they are larger and heavier than other types of bushcraft saws, making them less portable.

3. Pocket Chainsaw:

Pocket chainsaws are compact saws that consist of a chain with cutting teeth that is attached to two handles. They are designed to be compact and portable, so the saw can easily fit into a backpack or pocket.

Pocket chainsaws are very effective at cutting through branches nearly a foot in diameter. To use a pocket chainsaw or wire saw, you wrap the chain around the branch or material you want to cut and pull the handles back and forth to make the cut.

4. Wire Saw:

Wire saws are similar to pocket chainsaws, but instead of a chain, the wire saws are made of a length of wire with teeth or abrasive particles. They are very lightweight and can be rolled up for easy storage. The wire design limits wire saws to cutting smaller branches. Since the wire can break or become damaged over time, wire saws are not as durable as other types of bushcraft saws. However, they are an excellent choice for ultralight backpacking or emergency situations.

Each type of saw has its own advantages and disadvantages, so it is important to consider your needs when selecting a saw. When deciding on the best bushcraft saw for you, make sure to consider the portability, field serviceability, comfort, construction quality, and blade material/teeth composition of the saw. Ultimately, understanding these factors will help you make the best choice.

What is the difference between a folding saw and a pocket chainsaw?

The primary difference between folding saws and pocket chainsaws is their design and mechanism for cutting. Folding saws feature a saw blade that is typically hinged and folds into the handle, whereas pocket chainsaws consist of a chain with cutting teeth that is attached to two handles.

Folding saws come in a variety of sizes, with larger ones being better for cutting thicker branches and smaller ones being ideal for more precise cuts. Pocket chainsaws are great for cutting through thicker branches and logs, but they are not as precise as folding saws.

Maintenance and Care: Keeping Your Saw Sharp and Ready to Go

No matter which type of saw you choose, it’s important to take good care of it to keep it performing at its best. This means keeping the blade sharp and properly lubricated, as well as storing the saw in a dry, protected area when not in use. Here are some simple steps to keep your saw in top condition:

1. Clean the saw after each use. Use a damp cloth to remove debris from the blade, and also from the handle, if it’s made of wood.
2. Sharpen the blade regularly. A sharp blade is essential for efficient cutting and reduces the risk of injury. There are various methods for sharpening saw blades using files and stones, but you can also take it to a professional sharpener if you don’t feel confident in your own skills.
3. Inspect the saw for any signs of wear or damage. Look for broken teeth, loose screws, and warping of the blade. Repair or replace any parts that are not in working order.
4. Store the saw in a dry place. This will help prevent rust and other damage caused by moisture.
5. Oil the blade periodically. This will help keep it in good condition and also make it easier to cut with.

Sharpening your saw blade can be a bit tricky, especially if you’re not experienced with sharpening tools. One option is to take your saw to a professional for sharpening, but this can be expensive and time-consuming. Another option is to invest in a sharpening tool designed specifically for saw blades, which can make the process much easier and more affordable.

Taking proper care of your bushcraft saw helps to ensure it will perform its best in the field.

Final Thoughts About Bushcraft and Survival Saws

Choosing the best bushcraft saw requires careful consideration of several factors, including blade type, handle material, saw size and weight, folding vs. fixed blade design, and maintenance and care. It’s an important piece of bushcraft gear that is useful for a variety of bushcraft and building tasks.By weighing these factors carefully, you can select a saw that’s well-suited to your needs and will provide reliable performance in the great outdoors.

FAQs about Bushcraft Saws

Q: How do I maintain my bushcraft saw?

Answer: To maintain your bushcraft saw, make sure to clean it after each use, oil the blade to prevent rust, and store it in a dry place.

Q: Can I use a regular saw for bushcraft?

Answer: While a regular saw can be used for bushcraft, it is not ideal. Bushcraft saws are designed specifically for outdoor use and are more durable and portable than regular saws.

Q: How long should my bushcraft saw blade be?

Answer: The length of the blade you choose will depend on what tasks you will be using it for. A longer blade will allow you to cut through larger logs, while a shorter blade will be more portable.

Q: What’s the best blade type for a bushcraft saw?

Answer: The best blade type for your saw will depend on the types of tasks you’ll be using it for. Crosscut blades are generally better for smaller branches and limbs, while rip blades are better for larger logs and branches. Combination blades offer the best of both worlds and are often a good choice for general bushcraft tasks.

Q: Can folding saws handle heavy-duty cutting tasks?

Answer: Folding saws may not be as strong or durable as fixed blade saws and may not be able to handle heavy-duty cutting tasks as well. However, they’re typically more portable and easier to carry, making them a good choice for lighter cutting tasks.

Q: Can I sharpen my bushcraft saw blade myself?

Answer: Yes, you can sharpen your bushcraft saw blade yourself using a saw file or a sharpening stone.

What is the difference between a deer, elk, and moose?

Many people are not sure, especially since they all look similar.

They are all classified under the cervid family, but there are some distinct differences between them.

When you are out hunting, it is important to be able to identify the difference between deer, elk, and moose.

This will help you determine what animal you are hunting and what type of weapon you should use.

In this blog post, we will discuss the key differences between these animals. We will also provide photos so that you can better familiarize yourself with them.

After reading this blog post, you will be able to accurately identify deer, elk, and moose when you see them in the wild.

Are they all deer?

The deer, elk, and moose all fall under the family of animals called cervids.

This family includes many animals that have antlers or horns, as well as four-legged mammals.

You may be familiar with other members of this family such as the reindeer, caribou, or mule deer.

All cervids are herbivores and eat mostly plants.

All deer are hoofed ruminant animals that fall into two categories: Cervinae and Capreolinae.

Cervinae:

This subfamily includes Tufted deer,  muntjac, Chital, and elk.

Capreolinae: This subfamily includes reindeer, roe deer, and moose.

Now that we know a little bit more about where these animals come from, let’s discuss the key differences between them.

Deer:

The easiest way to identify a deer is by its size.

Deer are the smallest of the three animals and can range from 2.5 feet to 3.5 feet at the shoulder.

Another way to identify a deer is by its antlers.

Both male and female deer have antlers, but the antlers on a male deer are much larger.

(What is a 10-point buck? See this post for more)

Male deer also have a large neck and chest, which makes them look heavier than they actually are. 

Mule deer are found in and around Estes Park and weigh between 120-330 pounds on average.

Where you’ll find deer:  Search for them feeding in open, shrub-filled areas between dusk and dawn.

What they eat: Deer are herbivores and their diet consists of plants, fruits, and nuts.

They will also eat acorns and other nuts that fall from trees.

(What Meat Is Venison? Find out here)

Elk:

Elk are larger than deer and can weigh up to 1000 pounds.

They have a long body and short legs, which makes them appear lanky.

Elk also have large antlers, but they are not as large as the antlers on a male moose.

Both male and female elk have antlers, but the antlers on a male elk are much larger.

Male elk also have a large neck and chest, which makes them look heavier than they actually are. 

They can range from 4 feet to 6 feet at the shoulder.

Elk also have antlers, but they are shorter and thinner than those of a deer.

Male elk also have a large neck and chest, but their body is not as bulky as a moose.

They are averaging between 710-730 pounds. 

Where you’ll find elk: Look for them in open areas such as meadows, valleys, and mountainsides. They are most active at dawn and dusk.

What they eat: Elk are herbivores and their diet consists of grasses, leaves, and twigs. They will also eat fruits and nuts when they are available.

Moose:

Moose are the largest of the three animals and can range from 6.5 feet to 7.5 feet at the shoulder.

They are weighing in at 840-1500 pounds on average.

Moose also have antlers, but they are longer and wider than those of a deer or elk.

In addition to their antlers, moose have a large hump on their back near their shoulders.

This hump is where they store fat for the winter months.

Male moose also have a large neck and chest, which makes them look even larger than they actually are.

Where you’ll find moose: Look for them in wet areas such as lakes, marshes, and swamps. They are most active at dawn and dusk.

What they eat: Moose are herbivores and their diet consists of aquatic plants, grasses, and leaves. They will also eat twigs, berries, and bark when they are available.

This video gives you a good idea of the size difference between Elk and Deer:

Tracks:

Deer:

The deer has small, delicate hooves that leave a dainty print.

The front prints are almost heart-shaped, while the back prints are more oval.

You will often see pairs of deer tracks together because they walk single file. Deer tracks typically measure between 1 and 3 inches long.

(Can Deer Swim? See this post for more)

Elk:

The elk has large, round hooves that leave a distinct print.

The front prints are larger than the back prints and are usually wider than they are long. Elk tracks typically measure between 4 and 6 inches long.

Moose:

The moose has large, wide hooves that leave a distinct print.

The front prints are larger than the back prints and are usually wider than they are long. Moose tracks typically measure between 6 and 8 inches long.

FAQs

Do all three animals have antlers?

Yes, all three animals have antlers. However, the size and shape of the antlers vary among the different species.

What is the best time of day to see deer, elk, or moose?

The best time of day to see deer, elk, or moose is at dawn or dusk. This is when they are most active.

What do deer, elk, and moose eat?

Deer, elk, and moose are all herbivores. Their diet consists of plants, fruits, nuts, and leaves.

(What Is A Baby Deer Called? See this post for more)

Where can I find deer, elk, and moose?

Deer can be found in open areas such as meadows, woods, and fields. Elk are typically found in open areas such as meadows and valleys. Moose are usually found in wet areas such as lakes, swamps, and marshes.

How are killer whales and Greenland sharks predators of moose?

Killer whales and Greenland sharks are both predators of moose. They hunt them for their meat. Killer whales will attack a moose from below and drag it underwater where they will drown it. Greenland sharks will eat a moose alive, starting with its head. It’s because moose frequently swim between the islands off the northwest coast of America.

Are moose and elk endangered?

No, moose and elk are not endangered. In fact, they are doing quite well. The population of moose has been increasing in recent years, and the population of elk is stable.

Conclusion

Now that you know the difference between deer, elk, and moose, you can be sure to identify them correctly when you see them in the wild.

Remember, deer are the smallest of the three animals and have the smallest antlers.

Elk are the second largest animal and have antlers that can span up to 6 feet wide.

Moose are the largest animal and have antlers that can span up to 8 feet wide. If you ever have any questions about these animals, be sure to ask a ranger or other expert. Thanks for reading!

Wild turkeys are interesting creatures with unique physical characteristics like the beard and spurs. If you’ve wondered about the makeup and purpose of beards and spurs, keep reading. You’ll soon find answers.

Turkey Beards

If you’ve seen a male wild turkey, you likely noticed a shock of long, dark, fibrous bristles hanging from its breast plumage. That’s called a beard, and it’s made of modified feathers. Male turkeys, called gobblers – and some female turkeys, called hens – have beards. Only about 10 to 20 percent of hens grow beards, and it’s likely a genetic mutation, according to Sciencing.com.

Beard Function

The beard’s function is not known with certainty, but it might influence mate selection by hens. According to the National Wild Turkey Federation’s website, longer beards signify older, healthier males and thus superior mates.

Beard Length

Beards begin growing when turkeys are about 5 months old, and keep growing 4 to 5 inches annually. According to Turkey & Turkey Hunting magazine, a 2-year-old gobbler’s beard usually measures 8 to 10 inches. When it’s 3 years old, a gobbler’s beard will have grown about 14 inches. However, few toms have beards that long because bristles wear off at the tip as the beard grows.

But not all beards break or wear off. In a recent Realtree.com article by Steve Hickoff, Top 5 Longest Wild Turkey Subspecies Beards, this former NWTF staffer listed the longest beards on record for each turkey subspecies:

– Easterns: 22.5 inches, shot in Bowie, Texas.

– Osceolas: 19.125 inches, shot in Lafayette, Florida.

– Rio Grandes: 15.375 inches, shot in Beckham, Oklahoma.

– Gould’s: 14.0625 inches, shot in Canatlán Durango, Mexico.

– Merriam’s: 13.875 inches, shot in Brown, Nebraska.

On average, Eastern wild turkeys have the longest beards of all subspecies, while the Merriam’s has the shortest.

Number of Beards

Turkeys can also sport more than one beard. The NWTF’s Wild Turkey Records show Tyler Blake Mumpower shot an Eastern turkey with 13 beards in Spring 2017 in Pennsylvania; and Kooper Bays shot an Eastern turkey with 10 beards in 2015 in Missouri. It’s far more common, however, to bag birds with two or three beards.

Turkey Spurs

A spur is a long talon or claw on the back of a turkey’s leg, about 2 inches above the foot. Spurs are made of smooth, shiny keratin, and range in color from black, gray or pink. Some spurs even look pearlescent, while others are tipped with dark tones, according to Hickoff’s Realtree.com article, Turkey Spurs are Like Antlers to a Deer Hunter.

The Spur’s Function

Spurs help gobblers establish dominance, according to the NWTF’s website. Older, more dominant birds have the longest and sharpest spurs, which helps them fend off younger turkeys when vying for breeding rights.

Spur Length

Both sexes are born with small button spurs, but the spur keeps growing after birth in males. Turkeys with spurs less than a half-inch long are likely 1-year-old jakes, while turkeys with spurs measuring a half-inch to 1 inch are typically 2-year-old gobblers. Spurs on 2-year-olds tend to have blunt tips. After age 2, spurs grow slowly. Gobblers 3 or older wield sharp, curved spurs that are slightly hooked.

Although spur length and sharpness can help hunters estimate a turkey’s age, they’re not sure bets. Like beards, spurs can break or wear down. The Wild Turkey Zone website reports that Osceolas usually have the longest spurs of the five American subspecies, mostly because they generally live in swampy areas with soft dirt. In contrast, Merriam’s turkeys live in rocky, mountainous areas, so their spurs are typically shorter from continuous wear and tear on hard surfaces.

Final Thoughts

Hunters often consider turkey beards and spurs – no matter their size – as trophies, and collect them as keepsakes or display them with fan mounts. And because many states let hunters shoot bearded hens, beards and spurs often help hunters determine which turkeys are legal targets from afar.

Are you ready to start your own turkey hunting adventures? Prepare for your first turkey hunt by visiting an archery shop to pick up the necessary gear and supplies.

Perhaps it’s because I’m an admitted deer geek, but I find whitetail anatomy absolutely fascinating. It’s come to the point where — when I’m hunting and decide I’m going to shoot a deer — I can’t focus on the deer itself.

I start focusing on bits and pieces of the deer. The whitetail’s arteries are among these “bits and pieces.”

Take the femoral artery, for example. That’s the one thing the absolutely jumped out at me the first time I looked at this Browning Trail Camera image of an adult doe. Yes, the doe is awfully pretty — standing there almost broadside (technically slightly quartering to), and she seems to be heading into fall in optimum health.

But just look at that bulging artery in her leg! Quite dramatic, isn’t it?

More About Deer Anatomy

Wisconsin’s Norman Johnson and Alabama’s Dr. Phillip Bishop are two experts in this subject matter, and I’ve had the pleasure of working closely with both of them to help educate millions of whitetail bowhunters on the nuances and associated science connected with femoral artery wounds in deer.

In his work with D&DH, Johnson reminds us of how the upper hindquarters of a deer are a highly blood-rich region, just below where the aorta bifurcates (branches) to a network of other arteries, deep femoral and common femoral arteries, terminating in the lower legs. The vascularity (blood supply) to the entire rear end, including the hams, presents a very effective killing shot for a sharp, well-placed broadhead.

“While working 25 years in the field of radiology directly performing angiography on all parts of the human body, we clearly demonstrated the highly vascular blood supply to this entire region,” he continued. “Man and animal share a direct resemblance in anatomical and physiological makeup, as blood is pumped to all regions of the body. Main arteries resemble the roots of a tree comprised of divisions that branch and re-branch, finally forming smaller vessels. A large enough, razor-sharp broadhead is imperative as an anti-prothrombin (coagulation) measure.”

Both the late John Trout Jr. and Chuck Adams coined the phrase, “The deer (should be) (is) in a big heap of trouble” referring to the rear-end shot. Adams wrote this in his book, “The Complete Book of Bowhunting” (1978): “I’ve personally shot over a dozen deer in the rear-end and none went over 100 yards before keeling over.”

Trout, widely considered one of the foremost experts on blood-trailing whitetails, was more reserved. He said he had recovered many whitetails shot through the hips, even when the femoral artery was missed. He concluded: “Nonetheless, a hip shot is not a shot that any hunter should take intentionally.”

The Whitetail’s Femoral Artery

Dr. Phillip Bishop of the University of Alabama has taught us a lot about deer physiology over the years. The femoral artery topic is one instance where he shed light on what used to be a rather taboo subject, especially among bowhunters.

“Because high blood flow requires high blood pressure, the femoral arteries carry blood under very high pressure when the muscles are working hard,” Bishop writes. “Once the arteries branch several times, they are lined with smooth muscle that can tighten and reduce the diameter of the blood vessels. Every time the vessel diameter is reduced by half, the blood fl ow is reduced by a factor of 16.”

Conversely, he continued, the muscles lining the arteries can also expand, and when the diameter doubles, blood flow increases by a factor of 16. The blood flow increase from smallest to largest is like comparing a garden hose to a fireman’s hose.

“When a large artery, like the femoral artery, is cut, the high arterial pressure causes very rapid blood loss. With every contraction of the heart, the pressure rises and blood is pushed out. In the case of a shotgun slug through the hams, the blood pressure causes the bright red, oxygen-rich arterial blood to spray out impressively, leaving the biggest blood trail we’re likely ever to see from a whitetail.”

When the deer runs or jumps, the pressure rises and the spray is even more widely dispersed.

“The rapid loss of blood from the femoral artery, or any other major artery, causes a rapid and merciful death. Plus, a deer with a major arterial wound that has an exit outside the body will leave an easy blood trail. I have read accounts of deer expiring very quickly when one or both femoral arteries are severed.,” Bishop concludes.

The bottom line: All of these insights should be used to add depth and breadth to your knowledge of white-tailed deer anatomy. Contrary to the opinions of some of my bloodbrothers (and sisters), I would never, ever purposefully shoot a deer “in the ass” on the hopes my broadhead would severe the femoral artery. It is true: A razor-sharp broadhead to the femoral artery will put a deer down quickly, but the odds of this happening on purpose are extremely small. Granted, accidents happen. A twig deflect and arrow. You flinch badly at the shot. Etc. It happens, and if you shoot at enough deer, odds are it will happen to you.

In that event, knowing precisely where the artery is located and how it works are critical pieces of information that can help you decide which next moves to make.

The Mathematics of Deer Blood

The average white-tailed deer of about 150 pounds in live weight carries at least eight pints of blood in its arterial system. For a bowhunter to easily recover a wounded deer, the blood loss must be extensive. A deer will have to lose at least 35 percent of its total blood volume for the hunter to recover it rapidly. That means a loss of at least 2. pints of blood in the case of a 150-pound buck. The quicker the blood loss, the sooner you will recover the animal.

According to Professor Aaron Moen, a deer biologist at Cornell University, a running white-tailed deer has three times the heart rate of a bedded deer.

Why would we want to wait and allow the deer to bed down after being wounded? Any shock the bow-hunter hopes to inflict on a whitetail will only result through great and rapid loss of blood. Applying basic mathematics to his findings on wounded deer behavior, blood loss and shock, University of Pennsylvania researchers once presented us with this interesting and speculative scenario of a hard-hit 150-pound deer leaving a blood trail of l00 yards. They cited an example of a deer wounded to the extent of leaving a very well-defined blood trail indicative of arterial or other heavy bleeding caused by the arrow passing completely through the deer:

“This deer would have to lose 52 ounces, or about 3. pints of blood before collapse,” they reported. “Internal blood loss would have to extend to 41 ounces, or about 2ó pints to stop the deer within the trail distance of 100 yards. In other words, the internal loss rate would have to be almost four times that of the external rate in order to down the deer. Average internal blood loss needed would be .41 ounces per yard; the external rate, .11 ounces per yard.”

Final Thoughts

How far can a deer run before collapsing after a major artery has been severed? How many yards can it run before going down? In his book The Deer of North America, Leonard Lee Rue III estimates that a deer with a major rupture of its arterial system can probably run for approximately 85 to 120 seconds on the oxygen in its bloodstream and brain: “Running at a speed of 35 mph, the deer could potentially run 3,850 feet in 85 seconds, or 5,390 feet in 120 seconds. Although it is not likely that a deer will run this far, the potential exists.”

Hammered In The Mountains

By: Pedram Parvin (Western Hunter Magazine)

Most of us long time hunters have a set, or if we’re lucky enough, a bag of elk ivories that we have laying around that we have always wanted to do something memorable with, but never have. I found myself in this exact situation, when I came across Autumn Fahnholz of Hammered In The Mountains. I was amazed by her attention to detail and her ability to capture the essence of a hunt through her work. I reached out to Autumn to learn more about her story, her work, and her life experiences. Autumn shared with me how far her work has come, and how it all began as a devoted hunter.

With a background and bachelor’s degree in Biology, she expressed that finding a year-round position that she was passionate about in Salmon, Idaho was not easy to come across. Her life experiences from working with the Idaho Fish & Game taught her a lot and led her to learning western bright cut engraving from a local silversmith. That is where Autumn’s interest with silver and becoming a maker was immediately sparked.

She expressed to me that she knew from the very beginning that engraving wasn’t what she wanted to delve into, so she went her own way carving her own path. At the time she did not have a lot of money to her name. In fact, her first hammers, files, and pliers were purchased from the trading post in Salmon. They were well used and had a little rust on them, but that was not going to stop her from using them. While working random jobs with not much to do in the evenings during the cold and dark winters, she found herself sitting at a makeshift workbench in a little primitive cabin in the mountains. Autumn spent countless hours and nights trying to figure out how to solder, saw, forge, and stamp silver by hand, and there it was, Hammered In The Mountains was born.

Teaching herself this skillset came with wasted silver, failure, frustration, and more experimentation than she could begin to mention. However, when she would finally start to see the end result of what she had imagined, that moment of joy significantly outweighed all of the bad. Two years ago, Autumn took a big chance and decided she wanted to become a full-time silversmith. Although she knew it was the right decision, it was not an easy task with losing a steady income. Her husband, Benjamin, was behind her 100% of the way and paid the bills until she could get on her feet. Benjamin and his family own and operate Life-Like Taxidermy in Carmen, Idaho. Her husband, his dad, and his brother have entered in many taxidermy competitions over the years and in 2019 Benjamin brought home a Best in World Title with a pedestal antelope, and his brother Brandon, a 2nd Best in World Title with a life-size Mountain Lion.

Their passion and attention to detail with their clean and precise work when recreating animals is something she looks up to. She learned a lot from those guys when it comes to detailed work and strives to keep her work neat and clean just like them. The passion and tradition with hunting in the Fahnholz family is something that runs deep through their blood. While the guys at Life-Like Taxidermy are recreating animals from memorable hunts, she has also found a way to relive those memorable hunts with her very own skillset involving elk ivory. The Fahnholz name values family, tradition, and the stories that come from their times afield and strive to create things that will not only last a lifetime, but can be passed down to the next generation with a story behind it.

In life there are small moments that cannot be summed up by simply looking at the physical actions that have taken place. There are times when those actions hold a meaning deeper rooted into our souls, forged into our hearts and minds by the preparation, determination, hard work and faith we put forth. One instance that Autumn recalls took place deep in the wilderness on one of the most physically demanding hunts Benjamin and her had ever embarked on. After sealing the deal on potentially the bull of her lifetime with a perfect cross canyon shot, they made their way up to the huge bodied bull elk. Flooded with emotions that one can only feel after taking part in such an amazing hunt, Benjamin got down on one knee and asked her if she would spend the rest of her life with him. Some may have questioned the fact that he did not have a ring in hand, Autumn however, knew that the moment they shared on that mountain could be forever symbolized by creating something with that bull’s ivories. Where a person lacking in the ability to relate to and know such feelings might just see a tooth from an animal, she saw an opportunity to memorialize a life changing experience. She has since made him a ring and still has the other ivory she plans to use in a very special piece for herself. Benjamin and his brother, Brandon, still wear matching pendants from a bull hunt that they shared together years ago. For their family, there is no better way to symbolize the bonds and ties created in the mountains and woods.

Autumn’s true passion with Hammered In The Mountains is to turn those elk ivories into wearable memories. As an avid backcountry hunter herself, she knows the significance of each hunt and how those memories are so meaningful to us all. Her handcrafted, rugged, and creative hard work is an extension of your hunts and celebrations. Three custom pieces that she just finished up for the Western Hunter Magazine are a men’s elk ivory ring, a talisman, and a Benchmade Hidden Canyon knife inlay.

Hammered In The Mountains jewelry is sawed, soldered, forged, hammered, stamped, filed, sanded, and polished all by hand making each piece irreplaceable. Her work is meant to be used and worn, and people are always asking the stories behind these pieces, which gives you an opportunity to relive each of the amazing hunts and experiences all over again.

If you’re interested in a custom piece, give her a call (814-221-2408) as she would be happy to hear about your hunt and work with you to capture exactly what you are looking for. You can also see and choose from any of her previous elk ivory work on her website Hammeredinthemountains.com Autumn’s work is meticulously designed, ruggedly crafted, and handmade for hunters, by a hunter.

Compound bows are becoming increasingly popular nowadays. With the advancement of modern technology, compound bows are becoming more robust, flexible, and accurate.

However, a large portion of bowhunters still uses traditional longbows for archery and hunting. Now the question is, why? What is the difference between these two? And how to distinguish which one is an ideal piercing weapon?

That’s what we’re going to discuss today in our “compound bow vs longbow” guide. We’ll explore the key difference between these 2 bow types, and help you choose the best one for you.

Compound bows use a pulley system to store potential energy, resulting in high-velocity (up to 370 ft/sec), and high-powered arrows whereas traditional longbows feature a traditional outlook, are low-maintenance and are easy to carry around. Which one you’ll end up choosing depend largely on your preference.

Let’s explore more in our in-depth “Compound Bow vs Longbow” comparison:

A Brief History

The traditional, good-old longbow comprises a bowstring that’s tied to a bowed implement. Usually, the tool is a single unit from top to bottom. To lurch your arrow far, you need to pull the bowstring back significantly.

This action requires a lot of energy and concentration. Therefore, you have to lug your entire weight backward. Besides, you need to stay upright for improved accuracy. If you have less weight, however, this action is awkward.

It’s even more difficult if your hands are unsteady. Therefore, a better contraption has replaced this mechanism in a modern-day compound bow.

Here, a pulley (cam) is introduced to recoil the strings. And to improve the versatility and reinforcement at the center, a thicker and more robust member is fitted.

Therefore, the entire length comprises a short truncated upper recurve segment, and a lower one coupled together with a much stronger middle unit.

The advantage of this new design is that it allowed for a more significant backward movement without the bow breaking apart.

What’s more? the archer now needs to spend less energy, and yet, the accuracy of the arrow has significantly improved.

Compound Bow vs Longbow: Key Differences

1. Origins

Bows have been in existence for millennia. A 17,000-year-old arrow discovered in South Africa proved that bow hunting existed even during the stone-age era.

It’s believed that the Egyptians are the ones who invented the bows and arrows. Many pieces of evidence indicate bows were in use around 2,300 BC.

During this period, the preferred construction materials were sticks from hardwood timber such as ash and oak. The string was made of sheep intestine.

Obviously, so many changes have taken place since then. From the rudimentary and inaccurate weapon, you now have an extremely lightweight and powerful tool.

Compound bow

A compound bow is an improvement upon the longbow. It’s fairly intricate. Holless Allen gets credit for the development of the compound bow.

He modified a longbow into the much stronger compound bow we see and love today. He did this by initiating several improvements to the longbow and showcasing it through a patent he applied for in 1966 and received in 1969.

The new compound made its debut in the US National Archery Competition in the 1970s.

Longbow

Bowhunting enthusiasts Baer, Hiyt, and Mathews refined the longbow using new and modern materials. They transformed the hitherto wood frame and sheep intestines elements previously used for these longbows.

But even before the new revolution in the manufacture of the longbow, a previous one had already occurred.

The most advanced modernization of medieval archery goes to the Welsh. It appears that they manufactured the longbow into a tactical offensive weapon.

Their archers managed to withhold a large regime of British soldiers in the Battle of Waterloo in 1066. But the first recorded use of a longbow was during the battle of AD 633 during the war between the Welsh and Mercians.

Since then, this particular longbow earned the name of the British longbow. It’s been used in numerous battles with the French both on land and in the sea.

2. Design

The design of a longbow varies from that of a compound bow. Let’s see what our “compound bow vs longbow” comparison guide points out about the design differences between these two types of bows:

Compound bow

The high-quality compound bows are sophisticated. They have two sewn recurve ends fitted with pulleys at the end (limb). Either or both cams feature one or more cables attached to the opposite limb.

These cams provide the pivot needed when you pull back the bowstring. This action (let off) enhances the accuracy of the arrow while giving a more natural aiming response.

The center of the compound bow (riser) pivots the limbs, bow sights, bow stabilizers, and quivers. This section required greater flexibility to transfer as much of the stored energy from the bow to the arrow as possible.

This segment curves out towards the target, making it exert more force, which is subsequently transferred to the arrow.

Newer models of compound bows have cables and cable slides as well as a higher brace height. This is the length between a grip throat and the bowstring.

Longbow

The longbow, on the other hand, comprises a long weapon measuring about four feet long. Its stave was from a D-shaped section of a hardwood branch.

It has a singular and long limb. Typically, it’s made from a single material. There is no reinforcement or clamping along the entire stretch.

Even if the bowstring structure is the same as in a compound bow, the longbow still shoots slower and requires more force.

As a result, the arching process is also more strenuous than the former. This is due to the lack of a bow curve, the absence of cams as well as a more prolonged and weaker limb.

3. Material

The elements that make the longbow and compound bow affect how these two tools perform. Let’s look and the material composition of compound bow vs longbow.

Compound bow

Previously, compound bows comprised plastic-coated steel. However, due to lower tensile strength and flexibility – that decreased the arrow’s overall accuracy, – they now feature more suitable materials.

The more prominent material currently is the high-modulus polyethylene compound. It offers higher tensile strength as well as maximum energy transfer.

Longbow

The ancient longbows were constructed mostly from yew. However, hazel and elms were occasionally used. It was then coated with resin, wax, or excellent tallow to improve its tensile strength.

Currently, however, composite materials of laminated fiberglass and tampered wood are now used to make recreational longbows.

4. Uses and Benefits

Long ago, bows and arrows were used for hunting and conquering. But presently, they are used primarily in sports hunting and bow shooting competitions. Archery has grown as a favorite pastime as well as a game in all major tournaments.

Compound bow

A compound bow has a more significant benefit due to its design. The robust cams allow for a higher energy reserve. You only draw a portion of the energy and the rest remains at the front where it’s needed most when shooting.

The horizontal limbs also reduce the vibration and recoil intensity before shooting the compound bow, improving the accuracy of the shot as a result.

Further, modern compound bows have sighting devices to improve aim, as well as mechanical release to retain shot consistencies. Therefore, you are likely to shoot accurately using less effort.

Longbow

Longbow proved challenging to use since it required an inertia of over 65 lbs to deliver the necessary projectile power. This posture is also more strenuous since you’ll have to arch significantly back to convert sufficient energy needed by the arrow.

Different types of longbows were used for assorted arrows. There existed fight arrows, with chisel arrows. Other bows accommodated hunting arrows. Even within them, they also vary between animal and bird hunting types.

When you compare a longbow vs. a compound bow, you find that a longbow is lighter and quicker to shoot. Besides, it’s also quieter.

Additionally, the longbow is easy to make since it needs just one or two tree branches.

5. Draw Length

In archery, you need to be sure about a bow’s draw length. Typically, a draw length has a close correlation with your overall body size.

Take the distance from the tip of a nocked arrow to the tip of your draw-out hands. Divide this distance by 2.5, and you’ll get your draw length,

Compound bow

For a compound bow draw length, measuring the arrow tip should ideally be around two feet beyond the riser at full draw. When you hold this position and measure the arrow length, you get the draw length by adding one foot to the computed distance.

Longbow

The draw length of a longbow is usually more than five feet. Many of the early models had their measures reaching up to 12 feet. But they commonly averaged six-and-a-half feet long.

6. Limitations

Even the best-functioning longbows or compound bows have their drawbacks. Below are some of the shortfalls that are apparent in both the compound bow and the longbow.

Compound bow

By design, compound bows have many moving parts. This structure makes them susceptible to breakages and parts malfunctions. Further, having many elements make compound bow maintenance and handling a bit expensive.

Replacement is also intensive. It requires special tools to replace and repair damaged parts or strings of the compound bow.

Longbow

The longbow stretches more slowly and unsteadily. When you draw it backward, your arms move with the full energy you are exerting. You need more power to hold back your hands firmly.

At the same time, during the process of drawing your bow, less energy is available at the point where the bowstring meets the arrow.

This has the dual effects of releasing less punch directly to the arrow, as well as exacerbating your unstable hold. Hence when you release the arrow, it first, only moves a short distance and is less linear in its movement.

Further, it’s more likely to miss its target due to a weak trajectory caused by less force.

7. Care and Maintenance Requirements

Proper care for your bow is vital. You appreciate that owning a modern compound bow may cost you up to $1,000. Even with the composite material, they have many parts and accessories that need tender care.

Compound bow

Compound bows have sights, pulleys, limbs, cables, and cams. All these are made of different materials. Further, their assembly is delicate. Hence you ought to maintain each component individually:

• Cables: Waxing protects your cables when not in use. Do this once a month or after every exposure to the elements.
• Limbs: Laminated limbs are susceptible to cracking under various layers. Do a thorough inspection (by rubbing with cotton wool) to identify such defects.
• Frame: This component suffers from a lot of tension. Inspect it routinely for cracks and twists.
• Cams: Visually check on the cams before using your compound bow. To prevent corrosion and discoloration, wipe this part clean after every use.
• Accessories like bow-sights rest and quivers also require regular maintenance. Accurately mount them to avoid any damage through colliding with other surfaces.

Longbow

Longbows are made from composite frames or laminated timber. Run periodic inspections to identify damages to the fame and the bowstring.

Apply remedial measures similar to those on frames and limbs and accessories in the compound bows. Don’t store limbs in a hot compartment. Keep your longbow in a cool dry place. Better still, afford similar treatment to bolts and nuts.

Are Compound Bows Better Than Longbows: Which One to Get?

Compound bows and longbows have been used for centuries in hunting and archery. Now, you might be thinking Is a compound bow better than a longbow, or is it the other way around?

That’s a question that has been debated by hunters, archers, and outdoor enthusiasts for many years. Let’s find out which is the better option for you.

When a Compound Bow Is Better

Compound bows are becoming increasingly popular due to their superior accuracy and power compared to traditional longbows. While some people will always prefer the classic look of a longbow, it’s hard to deny the benefits of a compound bow.

Compound bows have several advantages over longbows. They are capable of higher draw weights than traditional longbows, allowing for greater accuracy, longer range, and more penetrating power.

The cams on a compound bow also make it easier to shoot with a consistent draw length, which can be very helpful for novice archers.

Additionally, compound bows are usually easier to maintain and tune than longbows. This can be a big plus for people who aren’t as experienced with bow maintenance and tuning.

When a Long Bow Is Better

Longbows have several advantages over their modern counterpart that make them attractive to traditionalists.

Their simpler design makes them lighter and easier to carry, making them a popular choice for hunters who must traverse long distances.

Longbows can also be more durable than compound bows since they are less complicated and require fewer parts. They don’t usually require as much maintenance or tuning either, which can be a plus for those with limited technical skills.

Finally, traditional longbows are often more aesthetically pleasing than compound bows, which can be a plus for those who prioritize looks.

Longbow vs Compound Bow: Which One You Should Get

The choice of whether to get a compound bow or a longbow is up to the individual archer or hunter. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, so it’s important to weigh all of the factors before making a decision.

Some archers may prefer the classic look and feel of a longbow, while others may be drawn to the power and accuracy of a compound bow.

Ultimately, the choice is yours, so do your research and find the option that best fits your needs. Good luck!

Conclusion

And with that, we’re at the endgame of our in-depth “compound bow vs longbow” comparison. Let’s do a quick recap.

You understand that compound bows offer better performance than longbows. However, you may still come across diehard fans of traditional bowing techniques.

To them, using both a compound bow and a longbow propel the arrow to the ordinary distance of 22 feet. But the inclusion of modern technology into bowing has made significant strides that you can’t ignore.

In fact, the new construction and materials have made bow hunting a more comfortable sport for everyone.

So, whether you aspire to hunt elks, deers, or any other small-medium game animal; or win a trophy at an archery completion, you have to start by learning how to use, differentiate and care for your bows and arrows.

Either way, you still need to practice consistently to perfect your pull, nock, aim, and shoot.

FAQs

Which Type of Bow Is More Accurate: Longbow or Compound?

Compound bows are generally considered to be more accurate than longbows as they feature a system of pulleys that help create consistent draw weight throughout the shot.

Is It Easier to Shoot a Longbow or Compound Bow?

In most cases, compound bows are easier to shoot than longbows since they feature a system of pulleys that help make the draw weight consistent throughout the shot. Compound bows also tend to be less affected by wind speeds, giving them an extra accuracy boost.

How Much Draw Weight Should I Use With Each Type of Bow?

Generally speaking, recurve bows require more draw weight than compound bows, with 40-50 lbs being the standard range for recurves and 25-45 lbs being the usual range for compounds.

For safety reasons, it is important to never exceed the maximum recommended draw weight for either type of bow.

Did you follow your favorite archery manufacturer’s social media channels during their coverage of the 2024 ATA Show in January? Did you spy something that enticed you to upgrade, or are you a new archer in need of your first set of equipment? Many manufacturers debut new products during the Show, so there was a lot to see. Wherever you’re at in your archery journey, there’s something out there for you. We compiled a roundup of a few of the many items that debuted at the 2024 ATA Show, via the New Product Launch Showcase, below.

Bear Archery Products

Bear Archery Products launched a 90th anniversary edition of its Grizzly bow. At heart, it’s the same Grizzly bow that Bear has previously produced, a traditional bow designed by Fred Bear himself, but with a new “Green Glass” color scheme and a 90th anniversary logo. Caleb Sorrells, marketing manager for Bear Archery, noted that the new bow has been well received and he predicts that it will do well for Bear. “It will be a great collector’s item on top of being a great bow,” Sorrells said. It’s available in right- or left-hand styles and in six draw weight options from 35 pounds to 60 pounds. It features a crowned, cut-on center arrow shelf with a leather side plate and a bear hair arrow rest. As always, the bow is handcrafted here in the U.S.

PSE Archery

PSE Archery debuted multiple bows at the 2024 ATA Show, including the Fortis. “The 2024 Fortis optimizes and enhances PSE’s most stable and efficient hunting platform, elevating your shooting experience to the highest levels,” PSE said in a Facebook post about the bow. It can shoot up to 345 feet per second and has PSE’s full draw stability system, EZ.220 Snap Spacers for easier tuning, a new Kill-Shok Damper to reduce bow vibration, a new Traxion Tech Grip and a Picatinny rail to mount your sight. You can choose from the EC2, E2 and S2 cams.

A PSE Facebook post lists the 2024 Nock On Unite as “meticulously engineered to John Dudley’s specifications.” It also comes with the EC2, E2 or S2 cam and is equipped with PSE’s full draw stability system, EZ.220 Snap Spacers and a Picatinny rail. The PSE Facebook post also says the bow delivers “maximum forgiveness with greater speeds.”

T.R.U. Ball/Axcel

Axcel’s new Ranger Pin is an upgraded sight pin on the AXCEL Landslyde sights. With the new Ranger Pin, the distance from the top pin to the bottom pin is .225 inch. The sight can be used for distances between 20 and 40 yards.

T.R.U. Ball’s new Trident handle release is the “first-ever high-end thumb activated target and hunting release that automatically resets itself without any lag. It immediately fires under bow poundage,” according to the T.R.U. Ball website. The website also lists the release as having an ultra-crisp trigger and an ultra-flex personalized fit system with an adjustable three-finger piece that offers 30 degrees of radial rotation, 15 degrees forward and 15 degrees backward.

The Antler Ridge Hunting Stabilizer Kit comes with a 12-inch front bar, a 10-inch back bar, a front and back Kryptos Arc vibration dampener, an Antler Ridge Trilock adjustable offset mount, a zero-degree Centerlock quick disconnect, two 2-ounce Black Nitride weights on the front bar and two 2-ounce Black Nitride weights on the back bar.

The new Axcel Achieve XP 1.5 and Achieve XP 2.0 sights remove up to 1 ounce from the target end of the sight and are designed to improve balance and reduce vibration, according to a video by T.R.U. Ball. You can also adjust all three of the sight axes and you can align the scope to your eye. It also has a new variable range plate that accommodates compound and recurve archers and is designed for fixed-distance and multi-distance tournaments, so you can use the same sight for all your tournaments.

Next Steps

Eager to place an order for some new gear after seeing this preview? Check out each of the companies’ websites to learn more about the products. Upgrading your gear can be a great way to reinvigorate your passion for the sport. We all love products that make things a little easier, give us more options, or are simply neat to look at and archery gear is no exception.

Visit or call your local archery shop to see if they have the products you’re interested in in stock.

It’s a beautiful thing when testosterone kicks in and gnarly old mulie bucks quit thinking. Nocturnal monarchs strut around in broad daylight, thicket-loving old hermit bucks stand silhouetted on open ridges, and alpine-country cliff dwellers descend to mingle with does in less protected, more accessible habitat.

In most regions, you’re not allowed to hunt mule deer during the rut. All you can do is take a detour through areas high in doe numbers on your way to work, break out the spotting scope, drool all over the front of your business suit, and take some shaky iPhone photos through the ocular lens.

But if you really want to hunt bucks during the mule deer rut badly enough, there are ways. No, I’m not talking about poaching.

Several great mule deer states offer some sort of a late-fall rut hunt. Usually, it’s in a limited-draw area, and you’ll put in for half your life in the hopes of pulling a tag. However, there are exceptions. Frequently, those exceptions involve archery equipment and lots of cold weather, so you’ll have to be both adaptable and tough to capitalize on them.

Take my home state of Utah. Ask any local hunter if Utah offers a general-season mule deer rut hunt, and he’ll laugh ruefully in your face. Utah, like many Western states, manages for hunter opportunity, not hunter success.

But after a minute a light will go off in some cobwebbed recess of that local’s brain, and he’ll say something like, “Actually, if you’re willing to work your way through a labyrinth of suburban neighborhoods, park near city water tanks or whatnot, and climb near-vertical slopes into the Wasatch Mountains, there’s an extended-season archery unit€¦.” Hunters may pursue big old bucks until mid to late December on the west-facing, extremely steep slopes above Salt Lake City.

These deer are never rifle hunted. Some years ago, a law prohibiting hunting with rifles was created due to fears of rifle bullets flying out over the city. That’s not to say that the local deer are dumb — far from it.

They get hunted from mid August to the end of the year. But it’s a legitimate rut hunt, and you’ll see big bucks working does among the oak brush clinging to the steep slopes. Whether you’re man enough to climb and put a stalk on one is up to you. I’ve put many a stalk on mature bucks on those slopes and blown all but one.

A buddy and I found a big buck near the bottom of the far slope in a steep, very rugged knife-bottomed draw, tending a doe in estrus. After racking our brains for a way to put a successful stalk on him, it dawned on us that if spooked uphill, the ledges and cliffs above him would funnel him through a 20- yard-wide gap in the rocks atop the far ridge. There was simply no other way for him to go — assuming he went up instead of fishhooking around.

It was worth a try. I won the toss and spent the next three-and-a-half hours in knee-deep snow, dropping clear down to the valley floor to get across the draw without spooking the buck, then climbing the gut-wrenching far ridge. Finally in position, I thumbnail-scraped the eighth-inch layer of ice off my bowstring and arrow and waved at my partner. He piled off the far slope in a cloud of powder, going right at the buck.

Just about the time I could no longer stand to wait, antler tips showed suddenly above the bulge of the slope below me. With my heart doing jumping jacks on my stomach, I focused on a spot at the front edge of his shoulder, planning to smoothly draw my recurve and shoot as he passed only 18 yards away, leading the region I wanted to hit by just a few inches.

Suddenly in the perfect spot, tongue hanging out from climbing the slope, the buck stopped. In disbelief, I drew to anchor, rushed the shot, and missed right over the 170-class buck’s back. I still haven’t forgiven myself.

Destination Testosterone: Where To Hunt

While many hunters believe that the mule deer rut occurs at the same time as the whitetail rut (and in some regions it’s true), most of the violent rutting action I’ve observed occurred after the first of December.

Finding a place to hunt can be complex. Studying the regs in the state you want to hunt is a great start, but a call to a wildlife biologist can prove a worthwhile shortcut. Biologists can point you to areas with high deer populations, tell you about migration patterns you’d otherwise be unaware of, and suggest routes to access remote public land.

Sometimes the land where rut hunts occur is private, and knocking on doors to ask permission to hunt can prove as fruitless as a celebrity marriage. Fish & Game agencies can often help by referring you to cooperating landowners that participate in open-access programs. High-tech GPS mapping programs that display blocks of public within private lands can also be very useful.

Killer Methods: How To Hunt

Once you’ve found a region and a legal spot to hunt and obtained a tag, get your boots on the ground and find out where the does congregate during late November and December. Rutting bucks are as predictable — and as unpredictable — as teenagers with high hormonal levels, and usually the old bucks can be found patrolling doe populations.

I once read that a good way to tag a monster buck during the rut was to find the biggest group of does in the area and watch that group — sniper style — day after day. Sooner or later, a gnarly old buck will swagger out of the nearest thicket and start sticking his nose under the tails of those fine-looking does.

A less boring method is to roam and glass doe groups from a healthy distance. Sooner or later, you’ll find a big buck as he cruises through during the mule deer rut. Be warned: With a bunch of buck-ravished, spooky doe eyes on the lookout, stalking can be tougher than sweet-talking a pretty girl at a church quilting bee.

If there’s good fresh snow, tracking can be effective. Take a skillful buddy along, put him on a promising big track, and veer out to the side, climbing high points in the terrain and watching out in front of your partner as he works the track. You might just catch a big old buck sneaking through the thickets ahead of him.

If you’ve got a long season, where you can relax and have a little fun, try rattling in edge cover near high doe populations. While I’ve never personally rattled in a mulie buck, my brother has — big ones.

If you catch an amorous but lonely buck just right, he might come stomping in snorting steam, blood and fire in his eyes. More probably, the big bucks in the area will just raise their heads at the sound and look long and hard — which can be just the trick you need to get a clear look at a buck to evaluate his rack.

In the end, though, glassing is where it’s at. Cover a lot of country during high movement periods at dusk and dawn and carry powerful binoculars that suck up light, along with the very best spotting scope you can afford. When you find the buck you want, move on him with everything you’ve got because you may never see him again.

Hunting mule deer in the rut is a far cry from hunting rut-crazed whitetails. They don’t vocalize much, they aren’t really callable, and they don’t hold predictable rutting territories. On the other hand, they do become visible.

A highly visible monster mule deer is the most contagious carrier of buck fever in the world, and if you decide that hunting rutting mulies is on your bucket list, you’ll contract it sooner or later.

Be warned: There is no cure.

Written by Bethany Beathard

Spring time will be upon us soon, which means gobbler chasing weekends. If you want to increase your chances of turkey harvesting success, consider investing in a turkey decoy. The purpose of using decoys is to lure in a wild tom turkey. Decoy manufactures continue to produce realistic designs. According to Audubon bird studies, turkeys have excellent eyesight. They are able to see three times more clearly than 20/20 vision. Additionally, they can also see in color and have a 270-degree field of vision. This provides them an upper hand on both predators and hunters. It can be challenging when trying to choose the right turkey decoy for you. Be sure to research the states regulations regarding the use of decoys prior to purchasing. First and foremost decide on how much you are willing to invest and set your budget. Consider the terrain and time of season you will be hunting. Scouting the turkey’s behavior in your local setting will be a benefit.

Most Realistic Tom: Avian-X HDR Strutter

You get what you pay for here, as far as realism and durability. Avian-X has created a life-like, high quality design. These decoys are made up of a molded dura-rubber material with non-chip paint. They are collapsible; yet, not the fastest to deploy in a hurry. This tom features a versatile design. You can exchange the heads between worked up tom’s red, white and blue display or a relaxed tom’s solid white head. Avian-X really added to the versatility with this bird. The adjustable synthetic tail fan and beard allow you to transform the decoy from tom to jake. This heavy-duty construction will really increase the longevity of use over multiple seasons. The cons are these decoys tend to be on the bulkier side and are an expensive investment.

Most Realistic Hen decoy: Avian-X HDR Hen or Avian-X HDR Heavy-Duty Feeder Hen

Avian-X has really put in the work creating versatile hen designs. First, the Avian-X HDR Hen, is perfect for tempting aggressive, dominant toms. This decoy includes 2 removable head designs, resting and active. Next, the Avian-X HDR Heavy-Duty Feeder Hen, showcases a relaxed hen, easily inviting on-looking toms. Both hen decoys showcase enhanced flocking and realistic paint detail, adding to the realism. Again, Avian-X has made another collapsible decoy to withstand years of use. However, these decoy are still expensive and not the most compact design.

Most Realistic and Budget Friendly Set: Primos Hunting Lil Gobstopper Hen and Jake Combo

Primos really did a good job producing an affordable decoy combo. The set can be paired together or used separately giving you variety in your hunting set up. The use of authentic colors and posturing of these birds really set a realistic unintimidating setting. Nonetheless, gobblers cannot stand seeing a jake take their place next to a mature hen. The small design and collapsible feature really makes for a convenient choice for on the go hunters. With the price point landing around $60 you really cannot go wrong. Primos set you up to get the job done with this budget friendly duo. A con here is the use of plastic stakes, you may consider upgrading to a heavier duty metal stake. Even with an upgraded replacement you would be well under budget.

Most Economical: RedHead Foam Turkey Decoy 3-Pack

If you do not want to make a big investment, the RedHead Foam Decoy 3-Pack is the way to go. These are a simple foam set that come with a two-piece metal step-on stake. RedHead offers 3 different poses and lifelike painted feather detailing. The three of them together provide a perfect flock to attract that long beard you are waiting for. This set is light-weight, inexpensive and easily packable. If you have been on the fence, purchasing these decoy would be a perfect introduction without the large investment. However, the cons are they are not as realistic, the foam is not very durable and the longevity of use is uncertain.

Best Reaping: Montana Decoy Wiley Tom 3D

Disclaimer: Turkey reaping decoys are very effective, but should only be applied on private lands with no other hunters. Be sure to refer to your sates regulations concerning this method.

The Wiley Tom 3D decoy is one of a kind. Montana Decoys set the bar with a realistic versatile decoy. This decoy offers a 2D option with a see through window, perfect for reaping. Subsequently, the 3D option offers a versatile stake designs for a traditional stationary set up. This tom has the option to add a real tail or wing feathers as a replacement. The Wiley Tom 3D is ultra-light weight and fully collapsible. This decoy gives you the best of both worlds. It displays realism; yet, is ultra-light weight for a run and gun hunt. The price of this decoy is on the higher side and the light weight construction may affect the lifetime of use

Most Compact: Miss Purrfect XD

Montana Decoy’s Miss Purrfect XD Hen is arguably the best hen decoy on the market. This compact design fully collapses and for easy totting. It is ultra-light weight, yet, they did not skip on realism. This hen offers three position adjustments: standing, feeding and breeding. Feather cuts give the added element of subtle movement, which increases the realistic effect. The price point lands under $80 making it a mild investment. The downside is this decoy is not waterproof; and, because it is made up of fabric the probability of fading is higher.

Best Motion Decoy: Higdon Outdoors Motion Full Strut Tom

Disclaimer: Refer to state regulations regarding motion decoys before purchasing. Again, when using motion decoys or reaping method, use all safety precautions. Abstain for public land hunting with either method.

Higdon Outdoors Motion Tom decoy displays realistic motion and eye catching detail. The motion paired with the full strut features will surely have that longbeard ready to engage. This motioning tom decoy really makes for an irresistible set up. This decoy is battery operated and will take a moment to set up. You can locate an easy tote hand on the bottom of the fan. A magnetic fan mount allows you the option to replace the fan with a natural fan. The cons with this bird is the high cost and some state prohibit the use of motion decoys.

Final Thoughts

It is no secret that the turkey decoy business is booming. Companies continue to produce realistic birds and I see no end in sight. Hunting over decoys adds an upper hand to the hunter trying to lure in a tom. Having a decoy or a decoy spread gives the turkeys a visual endorsement to you calls. Do you need a decoy? No, but is a good addition and may be a crucial piece to securing your harvest. As always, be cautious when transporting decoys or harvested birds through the woods. When hunting over decoys be aware if other hunters are in the area. Also consider you proximity to the decoy, better safe than sorry. Happy hunting everyone!

Snakehead; Scary name, scary attitude, and surprisingly delicious.

Snakehead are an invasive species in the United States but are native and a delicacy in Asia. Snakehead were believed to be introduced to the United States through illegal exotic fish dumping.

Snakehead have now been seen in 7 states since their introduction in Maryland. The largest population resides in the Potomac River drainage where they pose a large threat to the native species and ecosystems. The biggest threat they pose is an introduction to the Great Lakes where they could potentially wreak havoc on the very intricate and unique ecosystems.

Channa Argus or the Northern Snakehead are very unique fish. They have the ability to breathe oxygen and can survive out of water for 4 days. They also mature very fast and start spawning within 1-3 years. Dependent upon the ecosystem, Northern Snakehead can spawn UP TO 5 TIMES in one season from April to August, which potentially means 50,000 eggs can be laid in a season. They are very territorial during this time of year because they guard their eggs. The fry will hatch in 2-4 days and then will feed off of the embryonic sacs they are attached to. The female and male will guard these bright orange fry balls much like a female Largemouth bass. Any sort of invader is bound to get eaten.

This brings me to catching these toothy fish. TOPWATER. These fish sit in heavy vegetation, cover, and have been known to have birds, small mammals, and frogs in their bellies. Baitfish streamers, topwater frog and mice patterns, and others such as gurglers and poppers have been known to work. Along with the heavy cover and teeth, 30lb fluoro is commonly used. A wire leader could mean the difference between holding one of these slimy invaders and a lost fly. These fish may have a bad reputation and you’d think they would be easy to catch but it’s quite the opposite. These fish tend to be picky and moody. They will chase your fly all the way back to the boat but won’t eat it. If you get followed or get a short strike, change your fly and cast to the exact same area. Much like bass fishermen if a bass misses a topwater strike they can throw in a submersible bait into the same area and most likely get bit.

Now onto eating these slimy missiles of piss and vinegar. Snakehead have a slightly more firm fillet than tilapia and near-zero gaminess or fishiness. Eat the invaders is what people are calling it when they harvest these fish. So instead of giving your garden some snakehead fertilizer try filleting it up and pan-searing them.

“It is such a universal fish. If it weren’t for the name I think it would be on more menus.” “Can’t beat ’em, eat ’em,” is the slogan from Louisiana chef Philippe Parola.

“Eating invasive species is a really fun and interesting and charismatic way of attacking a very acute problem,” said Seaver, who advocates for sustainable seafood.

“Chef Chad Wells of Alewife restaurant tossed chunks of raw snakehead fish with cilantro and citrus to make something more ambitious than an $8 ceviche appetizer. It was an invasive-species eradication plan in a martini glass.”

Seaver, Parola, and Wells have been among the front lines serving snakehead on their menus. So far, snakehead has done well on restaurant menus helping combat this alien invasion.

Now if snakehead ceviche isn’t your thing these next few dishes should be simple and delicious ways to prepare snakehead.

#1 – Pan-Seared Snakehead Tacos

The most simple yet effective way to truly taste the fish is to pan-sear them. Make sure you take the skin off of your fillet. Snakeheads have large tough scales which would inhibit cooking and just wouldn’t look appetizing.

• Lightly crack salt and pepper on both sides of the fillet.
• A little bit of olive oil or butter in a pan and a fresh fillet of snakehead.
• The Pan should be at medium heat.

I’m a huge fan of a vegetal or fruit-based salsa with fish tacos. With how firm the fillet is it can hold a good amount of salsa on top without being too heavy and masking the flavor of the fish.

With all this info now all that’s left is to go catch one for yourself! Join the movement and Eat the Invaders!

Featured Image Courtesy: Fishtalkmag.com

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