The 17 HMR is among the finest commercial rimfires cartridges available. It is accurate, easy to shoot, and a well-placed shot is fatal for most animals. It’s widely considered one of the most accurate rimfire rifles and the best small game hunting gun available on the market.

The best animals to hunt with a 17 HMR are raccoons, rabbits, prairie dogs, squirrels, and coyotes. The 17 HMR is one of the most accurate rifles for hunting, and precision is of the utmost importance when hunting small animals.

The rest of this article will delve into the best animals to hunt with a 17 HMR.

1. Rabbits

Every year, almost 1.5 million Americans go rabbit hunting. Most states permit rabbit hunting, and some even pay professional hunters to reduce the rabbit population in areas where they’ve become invasive.

While hunting rabbits may seem easy, you’ll have to prepare thoroughly for a successful hunt. Rabbits are excellent listeners and are likely to hear you from a distance. If you wait long enough, they may escape what they believe to be a threat.

Most shooters choose the 17 HMR as their weapon of choice for rabbit hunting since it is the most effective and precise rimfire cartridges.

The typical rimfire’s rifle trajectory is not as good as the 17 HMR, which also has a faster velocity. Considering that a lighter projectile is less wind-resistant, a faster projectile also means less time for winds to steer the bullet off course.

Because of this, 17 HMR is an excellent choice for rabbit hunting.

2. Squirrels

Squirrels are challenging to hunt because of their unpredictable movements and ability to move through tree canopies. Squirrel hunting seasons are long, and hunters can legally chase squirrels for several months or more per year.

The 17 HMR is popular for squirrel hunting because the soft recoil makes it a pleasure for hunters to shoot. At 100 yards (91.44 m), the 17 HMR fires flat enough to be effective while delivering 88 ft pounds (119 Joules) of energy.

The 17 HMR cartridges offer advantages beyond just being a flat-shooting varmint cartridge. Compared to other alternatives, the 17 HMR delivers far less flesh damage while providing an even flatter trajectory and typically higher accuracy.

Simply put, as long as you do your part to make an excellent shot, a 17 HMR will allow you to strike a squirrel from just about any visible distance.

When hunting squirrels, however, avoid shooting through the trees unless you’re an experienced hunter. There’s a high chance that the bullet may bounce off the tree and injure you.

Related How To Choose the Best Rifle for Target Shooting.

3. Raccoons

The 17 HMR is a long-range knockdown weapon that is flat-shooting, very adaptable, and built on a rimfire platform. It has a flatter trajectory than the 22LR, so you might want to use this for small game like raccoons if you’re further away.

One important thing about a 17 caliber bullet is that the bullet diameter is less than that of the case. This gives you more accuracy when you’re hunting raccoons to help protect ground-nesting birds or just for pleasure.

The 17 HMR can use bullet types well-known to centerfire shooters and has outstanding ballistic eco-efficiency, resulting in a perfect shot from a distance of 200 yards (183 m) or fewer.

4. Prairie Dogs

Although relatively harmless, prairie dogs are pests in many areas. They breed swiftly, similar to other small mammals, and an uncontrolled population might seriously harm the meadows and farms they graze on. Livestock, such as horses and cattle, can suffer severe damage from the tunnels they dig.

They may also spread fleas and carry diseases that are potentially dangerous to humans and livestock.

Hunting prairie dogs is different from hunting other animals because of their relative speed. The most popular caliber for prairie dog hunting is undoubtedly the 17 HMR because of the good velocity and medium wind drift characteristics.

It is also the cheapest option and readily available. The 17 HMR is a powerful, flat-shooting, versatile rimfire cartridge that gives long-range knockdown power. It is the best option for medium to long-range shooting of prairie dogs and better than the 22LR for this animal.

While they’re not as twitchy as rabbits, they are certainly aware of their surroundings, so you’ll have to be patient and quiet when hunting them.

5. Coyotes

Coyotes are another pest that you could hunt with the 17 HMR. However, you’ll have to manage your distance and shot placement extremely well when doing so. Coyotes are much bigger than varmints typically hunted with the 17 HMR, but a well-placed shot should still drop the animal immediately.

Nevertheless, most experts won’t recommend shooting coyotes with a 17 HMR unless you’re closer than 100 yards (91.44 m) from the animal. From further away, you may even need two or three shots to finish the coyote, which is against hunting ethics.

If you’re an experienced hunter, a 17 HMR may not be right for you in this case. However, if you can get close enough, this rifle should do the trick.

For more, check out Best All-Around Camouflage Pattern Across Multiple Biomes.

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Creating a backyard space takes planning and effort, so it’s a shame that you can’t use it as often when temperatures drop. If you’re tired of letting winter’s icy grasp drive you inside, a kerosene heater could be a solution. A kerosene heater on a patio or deck can keep you and your family warm so you can enjoy the great outdoors. These cold weather wonders are available in different types, sizes, and capacities. Learn why the following models are considered among the best kerosene heaters on the market.

1. BEST OVERALL: DuraHeat Portable Convection Kerosene Heater
2. RUNNER-UP: Sengoku Kerosene Heater, White
3. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Sengoku HeatMate 10,000-BTU Indoor/Outdoor Kerosene
4. UPGRADE PICK: Dyna-Glo Delux KFA80DGD Kerosene Forced air Heater
5. BEST MIDSIZE: Mr. Heater MH75KTR kerosene heater

How We Chose the Best Kerosene Heaters

Since there are multiple types of kerosene heaters on the market, we provide a list of recommendations that covers as many options as possible. Our top picks include a selection of the best forced-air, radiant, and portable kerosene heaters for shoppers to choose from. Depending on what you’re looking for, our list can provide solutions for smaller areas, all the way up to a powerful 80,000 BTU heater that can heat up areas of up to 1,900 square feet.

During our research, we made sure to only include top brands that use the highest quality materials. Most importantly, we ensure that each of our top recommendations include common safety features such as tip-over and high-temperature shutoff.

Our Top Picks

Kerosene heaters aren’t new technology, but some improvements have been made to safety and efficiency, so keep the considerations detailed above in mind while comparing products. This list of some of the best kerosene heaters on the market helps streamline the shopping process.

Jump to Our Top Picks

What to Consider When Choosing the Best Kerosene Heater

Kerosene heaters produce plenty of heat, which can make them ideal for outdoor applications. Kerosene is a relatively inexpensive fuel, so burning a kerosene heater on “high” in an outdoor space may be more affordable than using another type of heater. When shopping for a kerosene heater, keep in mind their specifications, such as tank size, heat type, and the all-important safety features.

Type

Kerosene heaters are available in various models, each of which produces a different type of heat. Some are more suitable for specific applications than others. Note: All kerosene heaters run on a liquid fuel, which can be messy. If that’s not a task you want to undertake, other non-electric heaters use propane, natural gas, and easier-to-manage fuels.

• Convective kerosene heaters use convection to heat a space. They produce warm air that rises and pushes cold air down toward the heater. The heater then draws in the cold air and heats it, which rises and pushes colder air down again. This produces a very even heat within a space, and they run quietly.
• Radiant kerosene heaters produce localized heat, essentially warming the objects in front of them. They don’t do a particularly good job at heating a larger space evenly, but they’re ideal for targeting a specific area, such as a table or sitting area.
• Forced air kerosene heaters (also known as torpedo heaters and salamanders) heat air and force it into the area, much like a furnace. They’re suitable for heating large outdoor tents and gazebos, but they can be quite loud.
• Portable kerosene heaters come in both convection, forced air, and radiant models, though the latter type is the most common. These heaters are small and easy to transport. Take it outside to refill the fuel tank, which helps minimize potential mess or dangerous accidents.

Tank Size

Kerosene is a liquid fuel, so tank sizes are measured in gallons or liters. The ideal tank size is relative, so consider these factors:

• Heat output: Large heaters burn more fuel, so they need a larger tank.
• Portability: Smaller heaters need to be light and portable, so they have a smaller tank.
• Fixed vs. removable: Fixed tanks are usually larger, while removable tanks must be small and manageable.

In general, larger wheeled kerosene heaters have fuel tanks that hold up to 15 gallons (roughly 56 liters) of fuel, while smaller models may hold only 1 or 2 two gallons (about 7 to 8 liters).

Heating Capacity

Kerosene heaters also come in a variety of outputs, which are measured in BTUs (British Thermal Units). The higher the number of BTUs, the more heat a heater can produce.

Smaller heaters that produce heat within the 10,000 to 25,000 BTU range are ideal for smaller rooms, patios, or porches. Depending on the model, they can heat between 300 and 1,000 square feet. Midsize heaters (roughly 50,000 to 75,000 BTUs) warm spaces between 1,000 and 2,000 square feet.

Larger models—typically forced hot air—can pump a lot of hot air throughout a space. These heaters, which sometimes produce more than 150,000 BTUs, work well for large backyard parties and semi-enclosed tents.

Efficiency

Anytime energy is a factor, efficiency must be considered when choosing the product. Since kerosene heaters burn fossil fuels, make sure the model you choose is efficient and wastes as little fuel as possible.

Many kerosene heater manufacturers list their products’ efficiency rating, describing it in percentages. The best kerosene heaters burn around 99 percent of the fuel, passing less unburnt fuel through the exhaust.

But for a heater to work efficiently, it must be the correct size for the space. A 10,000-BTU heater may never heat a large garage, for example, which means fuel is wasted. Heating a small patio might not require a 135,000-BTU heater, as it will burn more fuel than necessary to keep the space comfortable.

Run Time

Run time is directly related to the size of the fuel tank, the heater’s output, and its efficiency, the most important of which is tank size. The larger the tank, the more fuel it uses, so the longer the heater will run. A heater that runs for several hours without refueling is a convenience worth shopping for, but manufacturers aren’t always forthcoming with this information.

Some of the best kerosene heaters can provide heat on a low setting for up to 12 hours before running out of fuel.

Safety Features

Kerosene heaters have the potential to be dangerous. If left unattended or used incorrectly, they can start a fire or cause burns. Many heaters have an overheat switch that shuts down the unit if it gets too hot. Also, compact kerosene heaters can tip over quite easily if inadvertently bumped. An anti-tip switch shuts off the heater if it tips over.

Moreover, any machine that burns fuel—kerosene, gasoline, wood, or any other type—also produces carbon monoxide. The best kerosene heaters are extremely efficient and designed to emit very little carbon monoxide, which makes them safe even for indoor use. However, when used indoors, it’s a good idea to install a functioning carbon monoxide detector as a safety precaution.

FAQs

If you have concerns about running a fossil fuel-burning heater in an enclosed space or want more info about kerosene heaters, check out the answers to the common questions below.

Q. How big of a kerosene heater do I need?

This depends on the space you’re heating. In most cases, a 50,000-BTU heater is effective at heating a small porch, while a 100,000-plus-BTU unit might be necessary for a large open space such as a wedding tent or barn.

Q. How many square feet will a kerosene heater heat?

The amount of space a kerosene heater heats depends on BTU output. Low-output heaters, in the 25,000-BTU range, may heat 1,000 square foot spaces, while 135,000-BTU units can heat over 3,000 square feet.

Q. Do kerosene heaters give off carbon monoxide?

Yes, carbon monoxide is a by-product of the combustion process. Generally speaking, these heaters produce levels considered safe, but users should have a functioning carbon monoxide detector when running a heater indoors.

Q. Is it safe to run a kerosene heater all night?

Kerosene heaters are not as safe as a furnace or boiler, but they could be the only heat source in a power outage. While these heaters may be considered safer than sleeping without heat in subzero temperatures, you should never leave a kerosene heater unattended.

Why Trust Bob Vila

Bob Vila has been America’s Handyman since 1979. As the host of beloved and groundbreaking TV series, including This Old House and Bob Vila’s Home Again, he popularized and became synonymous with “do it yourself” home improvement.

Over the course of his decades-long career, Bob Vila has helped millions of people build, renovate, repair, and live better each day—a tradition that continues today with expert yet accessible home advice. The Bob Vila team distills need-to-know information into project tutorials, maintenance guides, tool 101s, and more. These home and garden experts then thoroughly research, vet, and recommend products that support homeowners, renters, DIYers, and professionals in their to-do lists.

Introduction

Jack rabbits are a common sight in Arizona and the Southwest. These quick, agile creatures are known for their long ears, strong hind legs, and fast running speeds.

Despite their name, jack rabbits are actually hares, not rabbits. They are an important part of the local ecosystem, and can be found in a variety of habitats throughout the area.

In this article, we will explore some of the most interesting and important facts about jack rabbits in Chandler, Arizona. We’ll discuss where they live, what they eat, how big they get, and much more.

Whether you’re a nature lover, a wildlife enthusiast, or simply curious about these fascinating animals, this article is sure to provide you with some valuable insights.

Are jackrabbits dangerous?

No, jackrabbits are not considered dangerous to humans. They are generally shy and elusive animals that prefer to avoid human interactions whenever possible.

Jackrabbits are known for their incredible speed and agility, which they use as a defense mechanism to escape from potential threats. When they feel threatened, they rely on their ability to run quickly and change direction abruptly to evade predators.

While jackrabbits are not aggressive towards humans, they may exhibit defensive behaviors if they feel cornered or trapped. They may thump their hind legs or make sharp turns to confuse predators or individuals approaching them.

It’s important to remember that wildlife, including jackrabbits, should be observed from a distance and respected in their natural habitats. Avoid approaching or disturbing them, as they play an important role in their ecosystems and deserve to be appreciated from afar.

Can jackrabbits have antlers?

No, jackrabbits do not have antlers. Although some may argue that the famous jackalopes do! Antlers are typically found in members of the deer family, such as deer, elk, and moose. These bony structures are grown and shed annually by male deer species as a part of their reproductive behavior and dominance display.

Jackrabbits, on the other hand, are not deer species and do not possess antlers. They belong to the family Leporidae, which includes hares and rabbits. Jackrabbits have distinctive long ears and powerful hind legs that enable them to run swiftly to escape from predators.

It’s important to note that there may be certain anatomical variations or genetic abnormalities that can result in rare instances of antler-like growths in other species. However, such occurrences are extremely uncommon and not characteristic of jackrabbits in general.

When observing jackrabbits, you will typically see them without antlers, displaying their unique adaptations as lagomorphs, which include their remarkable speed and agility in evading threats.

Where Do Jack Rabbits Live?

Jack rabbits are found throughout the southwestern United States, including in the city of Chandler, Arizona. They typically prefer dry, arid habitats such as deserts, grasslands, and scrublands. In Chandler, they can be found in a variety of locations, including parks, nature preserves, and open spaces.

One of the best places to see jack rabbits in Chandler is at Veterans Oasis Park. This 113-acre park is home to a wide variety of wildlife, including jack rabbits, coyotes, and many species of birds. The park features several miles of hiking trails, as well as a lake, a butterfly garden, and a cactus garden.

What Do Wild Rabbits Eat?

Jack rabbits are herbivores, which means they eat only plant matter. In the wild, their diet consists mainly of grasses, leaves, and the bark of trees and shrubs. They are also known to eat flowers, fruits, and seeds when they are available.

In urban areas, jack rabbits may eat ornamental plants and gardens if their natural food sources are scarce. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals is generally not a good idea. Not only can it be harmful to the animals, but it can also lead to conflicts with humans and other wildlife.

How Big Do Jack Rabbits Get?

Jack rabbits are one of the largest species of hares in North America. They can grow up to two feet in length and weigh as much as six pounds. Their long, powerful hind legs allow them to run at speeds of up to 45 miles per hour, making them one of the fastest animals in the desert.

What Eats Jackrabbits?

Despite their speed and agility, jack rabbits are preyed upon by a variety of predators. Coyotes, bobcats, and foxes are some of the most common predators of jack rabbits in the wild. Birds of prey, such as hawks and eagles, may also hunt them from the air.

In addition to natural predators, jack rabbits may also be threatened by human activities such as habitat destruction, hunting, and vehicle collisions. It’s important to remember that jack rabbits, like all wildlife, play an important role in the ecosystem and should be treated with respect and care.

Where Are Jack Rabbits Found?

Jack rabbits can be found throughout the southwestern United States, including in Chandler, Arizona. They are most commonly found in dry, arid habitats such as deserts, grasslands, and scrublands. In Chandler, they can be found in a variety of locations, including parks, nature preserves, and open spaces.

Will Wild Rabbits Eat Carrots?

Carrots are not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat them if they are offered. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans.

Carrots are high in sugar, which can lead to digestive problems in rabbits if they are consumed in large amounts. Additionally, feeding wild animals can cause them to lose their natural fear of humans, which can lead to conflicts and even aggressive behavior.

How Long Do Jackrabbits Live?

Jack rabbits have a relatively short lifespan, with most individuals living only two to three years in the wild. However, in captivity they may live up to seven years or more. Predation, disease, and other factors can all contribute to the relatively short lifespan of wild jack rabbits.

How Fast Do Jack Rabbits Run?

Jack rabbits are one of the fastest animals in the desert, with top speeds of up to 45 miles per hour. Their long, powerful hind legs allow them to cover great distances quickly, which helps them to avoid predators and locate food and water in the arid desert environment.

How Many Wild Rabbits Are in a Litter?

The number of young in a jack rabbit litter can vary depending on a variety of factors, including the age and health of the mother, the availability of food and water, and the local environmental conditions. In general, a jack rabbit litter may contain anywhere from one to six young, with an average of three to four.

Why Do Jackrabbits Have Big Ears?

One of the most distinctive features of the jack rabbit is its long, upright ears. These ears serve a variety of purposes, including helping the animal to regulate its body temperature, locate predators and prey, and communicate with other rabbits. The large surface area of the ears helps to dissipate heat, which is important in the hot, arid desert environment where jack rabbits live.

How Often Do Wild Rabbits Breed?

The breeding habits of wild jack rabbits can vary depending on a variety of factors, including the local environmental conditions and the availability of food and water. In general, however, jack rabbits breed throughout the year, with peak breeding occurring in the spring and summer months.

Will Wild Rabbits Eat Lettuce?

Lettuce is not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat it if it is available. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans. Lettuce is low in nutrients and high in water content, which can lead to digestive problems if it is consumed in large amounts.

How Much Do Wild Rabbits Eat?

The amount of food that a wild jack rabbit eats can vary depending on a variety of factors, including its age, size, and activity level. In general, however, jack rabbits consume about 1/4 to 1/2 pound of food per day. This may include a variety of plant matter, including grasses, leaves, bark, flowers, fruits, and seeds.

Will Wild Rabbits Eat Apples?

Apples are not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat them if they are offered. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans. Apples are high in sugar, which can lead to digestive problems if they are consumed in large amounts.

Are Jack Rabbits Endangered?

Jack rabbits are not currently considered to be endangered. However, like all wildlife, they face a variety of threats, including habitat destruction, hunting, and vehicle collisions. It’s important to remember that jack rabbits, like all wildlife, play an important role in the ecosystem and should be protected and conserved for future generations.

Will Wild Rabbits Drink Water from a Bowl?

Wild rabbits are typically able to obtain all the water they need from their food, and do not need to drink water from a bowl. However, in urban areas where natural water sources may be scarce, wild rabbits may be attracted to water sources such as bird baths, swimming pools, or pet water bowls. If you want to provide water for wild animals, it’s important to use a shallow dish that is cleaned and refilled regularly.

Where Do Jack Rabbits Live?

As we’ve mentioned earlier, jack rabbits are found throughout the southwestern United States, including in Chandler, Arizona. They prefer dry, arid habitats such as deserts, grasslands, and scrublands. In Chandler, they can be found in a variety of locations, including parks, nature preserves, and open spaces.

Are Jack Rabbits Hares?

Yes, jack rabbits are actually hares, not rabbits. While both hares and rabbits belong to the family Leporidae, there are some key differences between the two. Hares are generally larger than rabbits, with longer ears and legs. They also have different reproductive strategies, with hares typically giving birth to fewer, larger young.

Will Wild Rabbits Eat Celery?

Celery is not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat it if it is available. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans. Celery is low in nutrients and high in water content, which can lead to digestive problems if it is consumed in large amounts.

Are Jack Rabbits Fast?

Yes, jack rabbits are one of the fastest animals in the desert, with top speeds of up to 45 miles per hour. Their long, powerful hind legs allow them to cover great distances quickly, which helps them to avoid predators and locate food and water in the arid desert environment.

How Much Do Jack Rabbits Weigh?

Jack rabbits can weigh up to six pounds, making them one of the largest species of hares in North America. However, the exact weight of an individual jack rabbit can vary depending on a variety of factors, including its age, sex, and overall health.

Conclusion

Jack rabbits are a fascinating and important part of the local ecosystem in Chandler, Arizona. These quick, agile creatures are known for their long ears, strong hind legs, and fast running speeds. Whether you’re a nature lover, a wildlife enthusiast, or simply curious about these fascinating animals, we hope that this article has provided you with some valuable insights.

We’ve discussed where jack rabbits live, what they eat, how big they get, and much more. We’ve also provided some important information about the risks of feeding wild animals, and the importance of protecting and conserving these amazing creatures for future generations.

If you’re interested in seeing jack rabbits in the wild, be sure to visit Veterans Oasis Park in Chandler. This beautiful park is home to a wide variety of wildlife, including jack rabbits, coyotes, and many species of birds.

Whether you’re taking a leisurely hike or simply enjoying the natural beauty of the park, there’s no better place to experience the wonders of nature in Chandler, Arizona.

Nostalgia, desirability and collectability are closely linked, and such is the case with what has arguably become one of America’s most popular wartime weapons, a rifle that Lt. Gen. George S. Patton, Jr. once called “The greatest battle implement ever devised.”

He was, of course, referring to the M1 Garand, the primary shoulder arm of U.S. troops during World War II and beyond. In fact, the Garand continued to serve our GIs throughout the Korean War and was reenlisted as a sniper rifle in Vietnam. And although there was a time when WWII vets didn’t have a choice of Garands—they simply had to take the gun that was issued to them—today’s shooters and collectors can select from varying conditions, styles and price ranges. After all, with more than 6 million M1 Garands produced between 1936 and 1957, the “U.S. Rifle, Caliber .30, M1,” as it was officially known, is still very much with us.

Although no longer our official battle rifle, the M1 Garand continues to prove itself as a National Match gun and in events that include CMP and 3-Gun competitions, not to mention reenactments, casual target shooting, hunting and collecting.

In fact, it is as a collectible that the M1 Garand has come into its own in a way that might surprise many who simply saw it as a rugged, no-nonsense wartime tool. Today’s surviving M1s have become much more than that as the supply of good shootable and collectible versions is starting to dry up. Consequently, prices have been rising over the past few years. Much of this increased demand is due to the realization of the Garand’s growing historical significance, which is being kept alive in movies and on TV.

Obviously, the M1 Garand was not a major factor in Hollywood before World War II, but beginning with The Story of G.I. Joe (1945), and escalating with such post-war blockbusters as To Hell and Back with Audie Murphy (1955), The Longest Day with John Wayne (1963) and Saving Private Ryan (1998), among others, the memory of the Garand continues to be kept front and center, thanks to DVD and cable TV.

Likewise, these same factors are at play in both old and new TV programs such as Combat! (1962-67), M*A*S*H (1972-83), Band of Brothers (2001) and The Pacific (2010). Thus, while the demand for Garands keeps increasing, the number of existing originals is diminishing—especially those with GI parts.

This is especially frustrating for those who are looking for the Holy Grail of M1 Garands: a gun with all matching armory components. To be sure, there was a time when every M1 Garand had all matching parts, original wood and no import stamps. But those cherished examples existed just prior to and during World War II—and only as each rifle rolled off the assembly line.

As soon the Garand went into battle, it immediately became subject to the mix-and-match vicissitudes of military armorers whose job it was to keep these accurate and rapid-firing rifles battle ready. Parts were swapped and stocks were changed with no thought that these firearms would one day become collectible.

Of course, some perfect specimens still can be found, but these are, for the most part, guns that saw little or no battlefield use or were otherwise preserved in their “as-issued” state. Most are in museums or private collections, and when they come on the market, their prices reflect their scarcity.

All of which brings up the question of which Garand represents the best value? The answer is, it all depends on the individual. After all, a reenactor is not going to drag a minty original through the mud or rake it over a barbed wire fence.

On the other hand, I have no compunction about taking my re-Parkerized Garand with its new Criterion barrel out on a coyote hunt. And even if it’s a used collectible with all GI parts, it won’t hurt to take it out to the range. I mean, these rifles were made for combat. But before we get into the choices of Garands available today, a brief overview about the rifle might be helpful.

The M1 Garand derives its name from its inventor, a Canadian named Jean Cantius Garand, who was born on January 1, 1888, in Quebec and eventually emigrated to the United States, where he became a naturalized citizen and anglicized his first name to John.

It was Gen. Douglas MacArthur who brought young Garand to Springfield Armory, where he subsequently developed the Model 1 rifle (hence “M1”)—a “gas operated, clip fed, semi-automatic shoulder weapon,” to quote from the Army’s field training manual. Designed to replace the Springfield 1903-A3 bolt action, the popularity of Garand’s rifle would become so great that it became synonymous with the inventor’s surname.

Chambered for the standard .30 Government cartridge, the M1 was loaded via an eight-shot, en bloc stamped steel clip, which ejected with a loud “ping” after the last shot was fired. This also locked the bolt open. The rifle was then quickly reloaded by pressing a new loaded clip straight down into the receiver with the thumb, while keeping the bolt pressed back with the fleshy part of the hand.

Once the clip was fully inserted, the hand was quickly lifted, permitting the spring-driven bolt to slam home, chambering a round on the way. However, care had to be taken to make sure the thumb was raised out of the receiver, lest the shooter end up with a blood-blacked thumbnail, which was colloquially known as an “M1 thumb.”

The Garand was officially adopted by the U.S. Army in 1936. It was a timely move, because five years later we entered World War II. Interestingly, only two companies manufactured the M1 Garand during WWII. Springfield was the original producer, but with war imminent, in 1939 Winchester was also contracted to make the M1.

Although numerous minor changes were incorporated throughout the Garand’s existence, one of the most notable occurred in 1940, when the original gas trap system was changed to a gas port.

In addition, rifles produced by both Springfield and Winchester initially featured a thick milled trigger guard with a hole in the rear portion of the guard to enable a steel cleaning rod or similar object to be passed through it to facilitate pulling the guard back and up, in order to lift it out of the barrel and receiver group for disassembly.

However, in 1943 Springfield Armory adopted a stamped steel trigger guard as a cost-savings measure. Winchester, though, retained the milled guard during its entire production run of 513,880 rifles, which ended in 1945. By comparison, Springfield Armory produced slightly more than 3.5 million rifles during WWII.

During the Korean conflict, beginning in 1952, Harrington & Richardson and International Harvester were enlisted along with Springfield Armory to manufacture M1 Garands. These were the only four authorized manufacturers of government-issued M1s; Winchester made Garands only during WWII.

Also during World War II, but before we entered that conflict, a number of “lend-lease” Garands were shipped to our allies, most notably Great Britain. British guns are often marked with a red band painted on the fore-end. However, few Garands were issued to British troops, and of the few authenticated British lend lease guns I have seen, all appeared to have their original issue parts. Many postwar Garands were exported as “surplus” guns and have been returned to the U.S. over the years and bear import marks, which adversely affect their collectibility but not their shootability.

It should be noted that after the Armistice, approximately 4 million Garands—easily two-thirds of the total production—were reconditioned by Springfield Armory. Parts were replaced, guns were re-Parkerized and often rebarreled. Thus, the chances of finding an “as-issued” Garand today is extremely rare, although many collectors are buying original G.I. parts with the correct armory stampings to reassemble an “original” gun. While this isn’t exactly a devious practice, it is becoming an expensive one, as original parts are becoming harder to find and therefore more costly.

There are the only four armory stampings you should find on an M1 Garand: “SA” for guns produced by Springfield Armory, “W.R.A.” for Winchester Repeating Arms, “H.R.A.” or “H&R” for Harrington & Richardson and “IHC” for International Harvester Corp. In addition, the stocks are usually stamped with the government’s “circle P” proofed cartouche (found directly behind the trigger guard and in line with it), the inspector’s stamp and crossed-cannon ordnance marks on the left side of the stock, and the eagle and stars design of the Department of Defense Acceptance stamp.

There may also be a small crossed cannon stamp on the bottom of the pistol grip on Springfield Armory manufactured rifles made during World War II. Of course, these stampings are not always sharp or even legible, and many have been obliterated completely thanks to overzealous cleaning or just normal wear.

Matching armory stampings on all components are important for a collectible Garand but not for a shooter. For a shooter the main criteria are how the gun functions, the condition of the bore and the headspace. And although the most desirable M1s are those made by Winchester, some sellers may charge slightly more for a Garand with a Winchester receiver even though the rest of the parts are not marked “W.R.A.”

As a rule, there is a premium for Garands with all matching parts, even rebuilds. But it is often difficult if not impossible to tell whether a Garand has been reassembled with parts from another gun. Obviously, most of them have. Determining the degree of finish—making sure all the parts have the same amount of wear and that the Parkerizing colors match—is one method. When in doubt, try to find an experienced collector and get a second opinion. And if purchasing a minty gun for a minty price, insist on getting a detailed bill of sale.

Another problem facing Garand purchasers is that, for some unknown reason, many former owners have felt compelled to sand or refinish the stocks, thereby removing or certainly dulling the original stampings. And then there is the matter of stock replacement itself.

I once acquired an otherwise pristine Garand that had been shipped to the Danish Navy, which replaced the original walnut stock with a birch monstrosity that looked like it had been carved with a jackhammer. The first thing I did was to replace the stock with a used GI version I found on eBay. If a government pedigree is not of concern, excellent repro stocks are offered by Boyd’s and Fulton Armory.

As for prices of original Garands, at a recent gunshow in Ventura, Calif., I found an aftermarket mash-up of parts (many from non-G.I. sources) for $600, while at Wally Beinfeld’s Antique Arms Show in Las Vegas two years ago, I saw a pristine, World War II Garand that looked like all it was lacking was the cosmoline. It also carried a $3,750 price tag. In between these two extremes are a number of World War II, Korean and import veterans.

If you want a top-of-the-line, historically correct reconditioned shooter, I’d suggest contacting someone like James River Armory where for approximately $1,250 (Winchesters are slightly higher) you can get an “arsenal reissued” restored Garand with new but properly cartouched stock, many with an accurate Criterion barrel. Miltech offers rebuilt M1 Garands with match-grade barrels for $1,795 plus M1-D Sniper Rifles for $3,250, complete with M84 scope.

Of course, one of the most popular go-to sources for M1 Garands is the CMP or Civilian Marksmanship Program, although recent runs on its reassembled but 100 percent authentic GI guns has been rapidly drying up supplies. Most of the lesser priced (i.e., Rack Grade) guns are currently sold out as are all Winchester Garands, but those still available include Field Grades at $625, Special Grades at $995 (which feature new stocks and Criterion barrels) and M1C Sniper Models (ranging from $1,600 to $3,000 but without scopes or cheek pads).

Still, the thing to remember is that 100 percent original Garands, while costing more, will always appreciate faster. Obviously, if you start to put wear and tear on these old warhorses, their values will diminish appropriately. On the other hand, if you purchase a low- to medium-grade shooter, it will always be worth about what you paid for it and over the long term might even appreciate in value slightly, given the ever declining supply of original M1s.

And keep in mind that the Garand was made to disassemble, so metal parts can easily be replaced, but once a wooden stock is gouged or cracked, it stays that way forever. And to my mind, there is nothing uglier than a rough-textured stock.

So my advice is to buy the very best Garand you can afford, shoot it, enjoy it, treat it with respect and, to paraphrase the old Army adage, take care of your Garand, and it will take care of you.

The world’s oceans are full of fascinating creatures, including quite a few large and rather intimidating marine animals! If you love nature and the ocean as much as we do at Harbor Breeze Cruises, we hope you’ll be excited to gain some insight into two predators found in the oceans: the orca and the great white shark.

Meet These Impressive Apex Predators

Great white sharks and orcas are known as apex predators, which means that they reside at the top of the food chain. They play a crucial role in regulating the populations of other species and maintaining the balance of the world’s delicate marine ecosystems.

Because great white sharks and orcas are two of the most iconic marine mammals in the world, it’s no surprise that a debate exists over which animal is the most formidable.

Orca vs great white shark . . . which one is bigger? Which one is faster? Which one is the most relentlessly fierce and deserves to be known as the ultimate marine predator? Let’s see if this debate can be settled once and for all!

Orca vs Great White Size

On average, orcas—also known as killer whales—are twice as long and three times as heavy as great white sharks, making their difference in size and weight quite significant. The orca’s larger body mass and muscular build contribute to their ability to take down larger prey with relative ease. So, when it comes to orca vs great white size, the orca is the clear winner in this category.

Great White vs Orca Speed

Great white sharks are incredibly fast swimmers; they can reach speeds of up to 25 miles per hour in short bursts. It’s worth noting, however, that orcas are faster when swimming long distances. Orcas can reach speeds of up to 35 miles per hour and, most importantly, they can maintain this consistent speed. When it comes to great white vs orca in terms of speed, the answer essentially depends on the distance they’re swimming.

Orca vs Great White Teeth and Bite Force

The orca’s bite force is estimated to be around 19,000 pounds per square inch (psi), while the great white shark’s bite is closer to 4,000 psi. An orca’s teeth are designed for tearing or shredding, but not for chewing; they consume their food in chunks or swallow their prey whole. In contrast, great white sharks have sharp and serrated teeth, making it possible for them to immobilize their prey and slice through flesh. According to Animals Around the Globe, “Great white sharks . . . have 300 sharp triangular teeth in several rows in their mouths. They also have an extraordinary sense of smell which helps them detect their prey from far away.” Though bite force and the shape of their teeth must be considered when comparing these apex predators, another comparison that needs to be made involves how they hunt.

Great White vs Orca Hunting Techniques

Orcas and great white sharks take different approaches to hunting. Great white sharks prefer to hunt alone; they use their speed and agility to ambush their predators at lightning speed. Orcas, on the other hand, hunt in pods of up to 40 whales so they can have an even better chance of taking down their prey, which often includes large mammals such as seals and sea lions. Regarded as social and cooperative hunters, orcas seem to understand the importance of underwater teamwork, utilizing their strength and size to ensure that they have the big, filling meals they need to survive and thrive.

Orca vs Great White Shark: Who’s the Apex Predator?

Are you tempted to say that the orca is the apex predator, considering its size, weight, speed, bite force, and hunting strategies? Or are you inclined to believe that even though the shark is smaller, its speed, rows of sharp teeth, and agility make it the apex predator?

If you were to cast your vote on which is the ocean’s apex predator based on appearance alone, the great white shark would surely be the winner. Their frightening appearance has even inspired Hollywood movies like Jaws and Deep Blue Sea.

Many scientists and researchers, however, seem to agree that the orca is the more ferocious predator, hunting and catching whatever type of prey becomes available to them. Orcas seem to have no fear and, of course, working together boosts their overall success rate.

All comparisons considered, it also comes down to which one could kill the other. While there is no evidence to suggest that orcas regularly prey on great white sharks, American Oceans writes, “Orcas are also the only known predators of great white sharks. Scientists have been studying this behavior for several years and have even captured video footage of orcas killing and eating great white sharks off the coast of South Africa. The orcas use their powerful jaws and teeth to inflict fatal wounds on the sharks, and then consume their liver, which is a nutrient-rich organ.” A-Z Animals also notes, “According to a 2019 report, orcas that relocate to an area to hunt seals will drive away any great white sharks that previously resided in the area. In addition, these sharks tend to keep clear of the area for at least an entire season. This reluctance to return indicates that the sharks possess some level of fear of the orcas and do not wish to chance an encounter by returning too soon.”

Interestingly, Science Focus declares orcas as the apex predator upon taking another important factor into consideration: their intelligence. Their article simply states, “Not only are orcas much bigger, they are also smarter.”

Join Us on an Unforgettable Cruise

Orcas and great white sharks—along with other marine life—remind us of the importance of respecting, protecting, and appreciating these magnificent animals and the oceans in which they live.

Harbor Breeze Cruises is proud to offer year-round whale-watching tours that are affordable and family-friendly. During your cruise, you can plan to sit back and relax while you wait to spot whales and dolphins in their natural habitat. You’ll feel right at home on the water on our eco-friendly, comfortable, and state-of-the-art catamarans operated by friendly and knowledgeable crew members, including educators representing the Aquarium of the Pacific.

For more information or to book a tour with Harbor Breeze Cruises, call 562-432-4900 or purchase your tickets online. We’d be thrilled to welcome you aboard one of our whale-watching cruises. While seeing a killer whale is not guaranteed, it’s certainly a possibility! Our crew and passengers have spotted blue whales, gray whales, humpback whales, and other whale species, and we can confidently say that no matter what type of whale species you may spot during a cruise with Harbor Breeze, you’ll be humbled by and grateful for the experience.

Have you ever been knee-deep in flooded timber, crouched alongside a tree as you watch a flock of mallards work your decoys like they read the script perfectly? You give them a few last feed chuckles as they cup their wings, and you make your shot. You swing perfectly with the appropriate lead, only to watch them all turn and fly out of your life forever, leaving you with nothing to show for it aside from possibly a wounded bird. Has this happened to you? If you’re an avid waterfowler, odds are it has.

The situation I described is all too familiar for most waterfowlers, especially since the federal banning of lead shot for waterfowl in the early ’90s. While this ban played an important role in conservation—fewer birds and other animals are now exposed to toxic lead fragments—the fact remains that most modern waterfowl loads can’t quite match the fatality of lead.

However, in recent years, variations of waterfowl loads have hit the market and gained the attention of outdoorsmen. Variations include split loads, where you could see a mix between a smaller and larger shot to give you that extra knockdown power while still providing enough pellets. Bismuth loads provide a greater density, ensuring cleaner kills. And finally, there’s the revolution of tungsten, which is nearly 70% denser than lead, providing a level of kinetic energy the likes of which hunters had never seen.

But with rising ammo prices and a lack of information surrounding the different shot loads, hunters can have a hard time figuring out which product gives them the best value. I’ll break down the pros and cons of each shot and let you make the final decision on what to put in your shotgun this season!

Steel Shot

What started off as a crunch-time decision to create an effective shot load after the federal ban of lead waterfowl loads led into it becoming the most common waterfowl and upland ammunition today. However, the progression into this wasn’t so glamorous. Steel is an extremely hard metal with a very low density (roughly 7.8 grams per cubic centimeter). This means the shot is very rough on chokes. It also has extremely lower energy rates, especially at long distances.

Over the years, the development of steel shot loads has progressed—through methods of wad advancements, powder improvements, and even shot size stacking. Many hunters have grown to appreciate steel for its low cost as well as its effectiveness in close quarters. Though the complaints regarding wounded birds have decreased with these developments, waterfowlers still feel there is too much risk associated with steel, and they often go with something a little denser and more powerful.

Bismuth Shot

Bismuth shot was the first steel alternative after the federal ban of lead shot in the United States. With a far more impressive density compared to steel (roughly 9.6 compared to 7.8), bismuth proved to be a much more fatal alternative while also being much less harsh on shotguns, especially older ones.

The introduction of bismuth also had its downsides though. Unfortunately, it’s an extremely brittle metal that was inconsistent and had a lack of durability during contact with larger birds. Combining this with its price point higher than steel, it was hard for consumers to make that switch.

The good news is that technology has caught up and improved upon those inferior earlier designs. After nearly a decade with a small market presence, bismuth has made an impressive comeback in recent years with its developments of durable metal blends, bridging that gap for waterfowlers who want better kinetic energy without paying tungsten price.

Tungsten

Tungsten has become a staple as the most effective and lethal shot option for waterfowlers, turkey hunters and upland enthusiasts alike. Tungsten super shot (TSS) has 60% greater density than the once-beloved lead shot and nearly twice the density as steel, making it a bird crusher!

Due to its high density and velocity, hunters can get the same knockdown power with smaller shot sizes, allowing for a much larger kill zone. To put this into perspective, the amount of penetration you would get from using No. 4 tungsten at 40 yards is still nearly 10% greater than the penetration you would get from using steel shot at 20 yards. This equates to fewer wounded birds and quicker limits.

The drawback to shooting tungsten is an extremely high price point. Apex Ammunition is one of the leaders in the market for tungsten waterfowl loads. For a price comparison, its TSS ammo is currently priced at nearly $5 per round, compared to its steel blend, which is roughly 92 cents per round. While this price gap can be somewhat astounding, the argument remains that while you may pay more for TSS per round, you’ll be shooting fewer shots and bagging more birds.

Best Bang For Your Buck

Whether you decide to use steel shot, bismuth, or TSS will ultimately come down to your experiences with each, your budget, and the value you see in the options. It’s no secret that while the lead ban took away a very deadly and affordable option, it is an incredible conservation move for protecting our wildlife, and there are options on the market that perform at the same level and even higher, even if at a higher price point. In my experience, using TSS has proven to be well worth the money given its knockdown power and the ability to use smaller shot sizes, giving me a lower margin of error and, thus, more harvested birds. Having said that, I am friends with many avid bird hunters who swear by the effectiveness of modern steel and bismuth loads, and their success is hard to argue with. I would encourage everybody to at least experience all three and make your decision based on how well they perform for you! Good luck this season!

READ MORE: TICK EASE FOUNDER “TICK MAN DAN” TELLS ALL ON THE DANGERS OF THESE PESTS

Magnification: 3-9XPower Variability: VariableObjective Diameter: 40 mmLength/Weight/Tube Diameter: 12.3 inches/13.3 ounces/1 inchField of View: 34.10 – 14.10 feet/100 yardsEye Relief/Exit Pupil: 4.20 – 3.60 inches/13.3 – 4.4 mmReticle: Duplex, Wide Duplex, LR DuplexAdjustment Info: 1/4 MOA/ClickOptics Coatings: Fully Multi-CoatedFinish: Black MatteWaterproof/Shockproof: Yes/YesParallax Setting: 150 yardsAirgun rated: NoIlluminated Reticle: NoMounting Rings Included: No

Best Uses: Big Game Hunting, Varmint Hunting, Target Shooting

Update: Leupold has discontinued their VX-1 range of rifle scopes but have released the VX-Freedom line with the aim to provide affordable, US made optics to hunters and shooters. The VX-Freedom 3-9×40 is a great, affordable alternative to the discontinued VX-1 3-9×40. Check it out at Optics Planet and Amazon.

Leupold VX-1 Scope Review

The Leupold VX-1 3-9X40 rifle scope is the all-purpose big game hunting scope that’ll perform exceptionally well for a variety of hunters. It doesn’t matter that this scope is on the lower price end for Leupold, you’re getting excellent value for your buck. It is waterproof, fog-proof and recoil-proof and features Leupold’s Quantum Optical System. ‘What is that?’ I hear you ask, you will have to keep reading to get the answer.

Reviewers are chirping the same high praises I have for this scope, with a stunning rating from loads of feedback to date. In fact, many reviewers gave this VX-1 a perfect score. This scope is far from being a bottom-barrel scope considering it is one of Leupold’s most affordable optics.

Out of the four models in the VX-1 series, I had to go with the most versatile and practical 3-9X40 scope for this review. It’s no debate that these dimensions are the most commonly used among hunters, that and the fact that the price is well-suited for most hunters budgets, is what made this scope an obvious pick.

Although this Leupold is the first of the VX series and is at the bottom end for their line, it’s still better quality and a better buy than other brands high end scopes. Take a peek at the Q&A to get a full rundown of what this great value scope has to offer.

Pros:

• Price
• Aesthetic appeal
• Eco-friendly glass
• Excellent quality coatings
• Made in USA

Cons:

• No complex ballistic reticle

VX-1 3-9X40 Rifle Scope Q&A:

What is the Quantum Optical System on the VX-1 rifle scope?

This rifle scope, and all of the the VX (Variable Power) series scopes, have Leupold’s Quantum Optical System that combines sophisticated mechanisms, engineering and science expertise, and industry-leading optical designs to create a whole new experience with a variable power rifle scope.

They’re made with lead-free, environmentally-friendly glass compositions that’s undergone a thorough and scrutinous refining process to ensure the glass produces as much of a razor-sharp image quality as possible.

The short answer? It’s a souped-up and pimped-out system that gets you the best glass for the best image and best light transmission possible. You see better, you shoot better, you hunt better.

Is this a low budget rifle scope?

While the VX-1 has a low budget price, it’s actually a mid-range rifle scope that looks more like a premium one. I say low budget because you can get it for less than $200 when you buy online, in fact, we named it one of our top picks for a rifle scope under $200. Otherwise, you’re going to find it in the price range of anywhere between $200 to $450.

The sleek feature that also makes it look like a premium scope is the lack of slapping on intrusive brand labels and the like with contrasting white lettering. Leupold keeps it classy and simple with bare minimum gold accents on the black matte finish.

Where is the Leupold rifle scope made?

All of Leupold rifle scopes are designed, manufactured, assembled, and packaged in their factory in Oregon, USA. They haven’t been outsourced overseas to Japan, China, Germany, or the Philippines – not that outsourced rifle scopes aren’t good, but it’s satisfying to own American-made products that are unmatched.

What style reticles are available with the VX-1?

This Leupold VX-1 rifle scope has the popular, clean, and non-distracting reticle there is – the classic Duplex cross-hair.

The only other available reticle with this rifle scope is the LR Duplex that features two dots on the elevation cross hair below the center to serve as a basic bullet drop compensator.

Noteworthy Features:

• Quantum Optical System for the most advanced variable power ranging scope
• Leupold’s Multicoat 4 for 92% light transmission and pristine, crystal clear images
• 1/4 MOA clicks that are finger-adjustable for easy rotations
• Fully waterproof, recoil-proof, and fog-proof
• Available with the LR Duplex reticle for long distance shots
• American classic style eyepiece with low profile lockable ring
• Light-weight and compact for field hunting and scouting
• Easy to mount, super fast and simple to sight in
• Made in the USA

Our Verdict on the VX1 3-9X40

According to the bull’s-eye, the Leupold VX-1 3-9X40 rifle scope has more reach than you think – it’s all in the glass. The glass is world-class, the coatings are top-notch, and the quality is unbeatable. The only thing that it’s missing is a more advanced ballistic reticle option. It is available with a simple LR Duplex reticle, but it would be nice to see something that can match its quality and potential.

However, doubling your budget can land you the VX-3i 3.5-10X40 where you have the option of buying the Boone & Crockett reticle. Or, you could just sneak your way online into Leupold’s Custom Shop and upgrade your VX-1 with any of the 18 available reticles like the super-cool TMOA reticle. Ouch, we can already feel the penny pinching going on!

Moving on and staying on budget, the Redfield Revolution 3-9X40 scope would be the VX-1’s closest alternative. Maybe it has something to do with its relationship to Leupold? If you pay close attention to the full Revolution review, you’ll know exactly what we’re talking about!

The VX-1 has earned it’s place in the hunting world, and it’s on the Top 100 Best Seller’s List as a very popular and in-demand scope. To sum it up, we’ve already said it perfectly. With the VX-1, “You see better, you shoot better, you hunt better.” ‘Nuff said.

Update: Leupold has discontinued their VX-1 range of rifle scopes but have released the VX-Freedom line with the aim to provide affordable, US made optics to hunters and shooters. The VX-Freedom 3-9×40 is a great, affordable alternative to the discontinued VX-1 3-9×40. Check it out at Optics Planet and Amazon.

Further Reading

• 27 Tips to Help You Understand Rifle Scope Parallax Adjustments Today
• Atibal XP8 1-8×24 Riflescope Review (Second Focal Plane)
• ATN THOR LT 320 3-6X Thermal Rifle Scope Review
• ATN X-Sight 4K Buckhunter 5-20x Riflescope Review
• ATN X-Sight II 5-20X Night Vision Scope Review – HD Resolution (Day/Night Compatible)

If you have damage to your neoprene stockingfeet use these tips to find and repair the hole. Neoprene stockingfeet on fishing waders can get punctured by things such as stepping on sharp rocks or gravel or from using worn out boots causing puncures or abrasion. Old worn out boots will damage neoprene stockingfeet when the liner is worn down and sharp edges are exposed. This can lead to damage on the top, toe, or bottom of the stockingfoot. Repairs are fairly easy and will hold up well if done correctly.

What you’ll need:

• A water source for testing and somewhere dry to hang the waders.
• Regular Aquaseal (not UV) or Aquaseal NEO.
• Masking tape or Tenacious Tape.
• Cardstock or a business card and latex gloves.

Step by step instructions for repairing fishing wader neoprene stockingfeet

Find the hole. The first step is to look for differences in the area that seems to be letting water through. If you can see an indentation, or abrasion in the neoprene is a good indication that something is wrong in that spot. A surefire way to test the feet is to turn the waders inside out and fill the feet with water. Usually hanging the waders while doing this is the easiest way to control the flow of water when filling the inside. If there is a hole you’ll see water dripping out of it.

Next step; Fix the hole. Once the waders are dry this can be accomplished simply by rubbing a small amount of Aquaseal or Aquaseal NEO into the hole, making sure to rub it into the hole so that it fills the inside of the hole. We recommend backing the inside with some masking tape or Gearaid Tenacious Tape, and then filling the hole from the outside. Once it’s full and Aquaseal fills the hole apply a thin layer out to about 1/4-1/2″ on all sides of the hole. We like to apply a small piece of Tenacious Tape over the Aquaseal at this point, which will be removed later, to make a clean and smooth exterior to the patch.

Final step; Go fishing!

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