There is a specialized law enforcement department that has the sole responsibility of protecting our natural resources. Collectively referred to as game wardens or conservation police officers, these men and women are the ones who interact with hunters and fishermen to make sure those taking our natural resources are following the rules, including hunting seasons, bag limits, means and methods, to name a few.

Game wardens are probably the least known of all law enforcement officers. Most are state peace officers, which means they must know all state legislative laws as well as all the game and fish laws. Many times they work by themselves, often out of radio communication or cell phone service. Game wardens routinely encounter multiple armed violators to whom they must issue citations or take into custody on their own. Game wardens usually work more than 40 hours a week, and often are gone from their homes and families for weeks. Needless to say, game wardens are dedicated law enforcement officers.

Unfortunately, we now live in a society where disrespecting law enforcement is becoming the norm for many individuals in our communities. Many even actively seek to harm law enforcement officers. If you are in the field often enough, you will eventually encounter a game warden. How you react to that encounter can set the tone on how the interaction will go.

It is important to remember that game wardens have a job to do, and they take that job very seriously. The game wardens with whom I have spoken have told me that there are things that sportsmen and women can do to make sure that any encounter is pleasant and uneventful. Game wardens are almost all in agreement in what you can do to keep yourself as well as the officer safe, and to avoid any misunderstandings. When you encounter a game warden you should display your firearm in a safe manner, have all your documents ready for inspection, have a good attitude, comply with requests, and do not look to be offended.

1. Make Sure Your Firearm is Displayed Safely The first thing that you should do when you see a game warden approaching is to display a safe firearm. A game warden knows that everyone they encounter is armed with either a firearm, knife or both. This ensures the safety of not only the game warden but also the person who is being checked. Remember, the game warden usually has no idea whom they are approaching, nor do they know their intent.

If you see a game warden approaching from a distance, keep your muzzle pointed in a safe direction and unload your firearm, leaving the action open to display a safe firearm. It is always a good idea to lay your firearm on the ground and place it in a rack or some other place that you can walk away from it. If the game warden appears suddenly, do not make any sudden moves with your firearm, including unloading it. With your firearm pointing in a safe direction, acknowledge the game warden and wait for him or her to ask you to unload. You can also ask the game warden if you can unload your firearm. The game warden may ask you to set the firearm down and have you move a safe distance away from it. Remember, the game warden is allowed to give you lawful requests for everyone’s safety.

It is important to remember that everyone is a little jumpy these days, and that includes game wardens who just want to make it back home to their families. Several game wardens relayed stories to me regarding individuals who refused to unload or place their firearm down. Luckily the game wardens handled the situation professionally without anyone getting hurt.

2. Have Your Documents Ready If you are hunting, you know that you need a hunting license. Your license is subject to inspection by a game warden. Most states also require a valid identification card to be on your person while engaged in hunting. Therefore, it should not be a surprise to anyone that a game warden is going to ask to see these documents. In addition to a hunting license and a valid identification card, there are other documents the game warden might ask to inspect, depending on the game you are hunting. These might include stamps, permits and tags, as well as anything else you are required to be in possession of while hunting a specific animal in a specific area.

It should go without saying that these documents should be readily accessible. This means that everything should be able to be presented to the game warden immediately. All required documents should be carried in a way that you do not have to disrobe to get to them. It you are waterfowl hunting and wearing waders, your documents should be stored in a waterproof bag in the top compartment. Licenses and other documents should not be left in the truck or back at camp. Game wardens are very busy, and they want to move on to the next hunter—just as much as you might want them to.

3. Have a Good Attitude Most officers will tell you that an individual’s attitude is a major factor when it comes to setting the tone of the encounter. That tone is usually established within the first 60 seconds. If an individual has a bad attitude from the start, this will probably inadvertently cause an escalation of tension. An individual that has a bad attitude is more likely to fail to display a safe firearm or comply with lawful orders. Unfortunately, if this occurs, the game warden will have to address this increase in tension through the “force control continuum.” This allows any peace officer to use one force higher than the force used against him or her. Fortunately, most peace officer are trained in, and can effectively use, de-escalation techniques.

There is no reason to have a bad attitude, after all, you are hunting! You are outdoors, enjoying nature and away from the office! If you have a good attitude when you meet a game warden, you are sure to have a good attitude when the game warden leaves. If you have a bad attitude when you meet a game warden, you are sure to have a bad attitude when the game warden leaves.

4. Comply With Requests It is always important that you comply with any lawful request by a law enforcement officer, and this includes game wardens. A game warden will ask the hunter to do specific things during an encounter to keep all parties safe and to efficiently perform an inspection of game and the equipment used to take natural resources. Any failure to comply with a request from a game warden is the surest way to increase the tension of the encounter. This can lead to citations or even an arrest. The quickest way to complete an inspection and get back to hunting is to comply with any request from a game warden.

5. Don’t Get Offended Do not take anything personally. Remember, game wardens are just doing their job. We now live in a society of individuals who are looking to be offended. Just like in any profession, game wardens go through a process to achieve an end. In the case of a game warden, he or she is to conduct an inspection to make sure that all game and fish laws are being followed. There is no ulterior motive in their inspections other than doing their job.

Several wardens relayed stories that provided examples of those individuals looking to be offended. One game warden told me how he asked a waterfowl hunter on dry land, who was wearing waders, for his hunting licenses and identification. Because the hunter did not have his documents where they were readily accessible, he had to lower his waders to get to his pants pockets to retrieve them. The hunter then loudly protested, claiming the game warden had him “disrobe” in front of his family to humiliate him!

Happy people tend to be happy hunters. Unhappy people tend to be unhappy hunters. The vast majority of game wardens that I have met have generally been happy people, who truly have a passion for what they are doing and enjoy encounters with the public. Attitude is contagious. If you have a good one, you’ll quickly infect others with it!

This article was originally published in Issue 1 of our magazine.

Using the right tool for the right job makes all the difference. Sure, you can get away with using a flathead screwdriver on a Phillips screw, but every time you do so, you run the risk of stripping the screw. It’s much better to use the correct driver for the proper fit to avoid damage to the screw and the driver. Similarly, using the right knot can be a huge factor in the success of accomplishing a job, easily and safely.

Unless knots factor into your daily grind like bungee jump operator or first mate of the S.S. Minnow, the majority of people may only use one or two knots on a daily basis — or if you have Velcro on your shoes, maybe even none at all. Whether or not you have ever been taught what sort of knot is used for what, or if you have, it’s probably been a long time since you earned your merit badge in that endeavor. Let’s take a look at a few useful knots that can get you out of a pinch or simply help you get things done quicker.

There are countless knots out there as well as multiple variations for many of them. Each knot was created for a specific application. Realistically, unless it’s part of your everyday life, it’s difficult to remember how many of these knots are tied. We’ve picked out three knots that are strong and versatile that can be used in just about any situation.

The Bowline

The Bowline forms a secure, non-sliding loop. When a load is placed on the Bowline, it will not slip or jam, but when the line is relaxed, the knot can be easily untied. The loop may pass around or through an object such as a railing, pole, tree, or a fence, during the making of the knot. When no longer being used, the knot comes undone relatively easily, even after being used under great load. For this reason, this knot is not recommended for uses such as climbing or rappelling.

Uses

• Hoist or lower objects from an elevated position
• The loop can be tied around just about anything you need to pull or drag
• Use as an anchor point when tying down cargo. When using it in this manner, finish off tying the cargo with the Trucker’s Hitch.
• Tying off a boat to prevent drifting

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Trucker’s Hitch

Commonly used by truckers, the Trucker’s Hitch is used to tie down loads securely and with great tension. The loop formed while tying this knot acts as a pulley that tightens up slack to keep even heavy loads in place. The Trucker’s Hitch is actually a system of several knots used together to great effect.

Uses

• Cinch down heavy loads on roof racks, car roofs, and truck beds
• Securely tie down tarps

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Double Fisherman’s

This knot is used to tie two ropes of similar width and strength together. If you don’t have a single rope long enough to get the job done, use this technique to tie two ropes together. What you’re essentially doing with this knot is tying two knots, one on each rope. When pulled toward each other, the two knots come together, tighten, and form a secure method of combining two ropes.

Uses

• Joining two ends of shorter ropes to make a longer one
• Joining two ends of the same rope to make a secure circle or loop

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Rope Care

It’s always important to check your ropes for kinks, debris, and frays. Keep your rope away from water if possible, unless it is designed for it. Damaged and weakened rope that is under a lot of tension can break and cause serious injury or death.

Tidbit

The origin of knots has been lost to time, but what we do know is that they have been in use for thousands of years by many ancient civilizations. This human knowhow now lives on the surface of the planet Mars. NASA’s Mars Rover Curiosity features cables that are bundled together with hand-tied knots. The knots keep the cables bundled without wearing them out like cable ties would.

History can’t be revised, retold, or rewritten. It is what it is. And the reality is that many of the greatest ice fishing lures—particularly those for panfish—were invented by John Butwinski of Little Atom. But it’s important to understand that the evolution of modern ice lures for panfish, and the basis for many of today’s fundamental designs, goes back to the 1950s. I fear the “rest of the story” has never been adequately told.

Most panfish specialists have fished the Little Atom Nuggie, Wedgee, and Noodle— some of the first micro-sized ice plastics. What few know, however, is that Butwinski designed many classic designs—Shmoe Spoon, Rat Finkie, Atom Ant, Purist, and Rembrandt. Most of these have been mimicked once Little Atom’s original patents expired, Butwinski having passed away in 1982. Rick and Don DeBaere purchased Little Atom in 1984 and unveiled some original ice fishing plastics in 1989, including the Tease Tail, based on drawings sketched by Butwinski in the 1960s.

Little Atom designs such as the Duppie, Skimpie, and Wedgee caught fire in the 1990s, quickly becoming go-to lures in early ice competitions. Rick DaBaere released the Nuggie in 2004, which Phil Morse tipped on a Fiskas jig to win the North American Ice Fishing Circuit (NAIFC) Championship. The Fiskas/Nuggie pairing became a tournament phenom, accounting for at least six NAIFC Championships. In terms of prominent, productive, important ice plastics, I rank it number one of all time.

Little Atom Rat Finkie: Almost every veteran ice angler has fished this masterpiece jig, yet few know the Rat Finkie was invented in 1964 by Butwinski, founder of Little Atom Lure Company. The original Finkie launched the trend toward horizontal-hanging ice jigs, the focus of countless designs to come. The objective remains to present the jig in a nearly parallel posture, positioning the hook at the optimal hook-set angle.

The Rat Finkie has been a confidence jig for me, triggering bites day after day, season after season. Other Finkie assets: Fine-wire hook, soft tubular body, and the fact you can tip it with a single larva or softbait to create the illusion of a tiny bite of food, natural in appearance and texture.

Five rows in my 30-year old Scientific Anglers box are crammed with Finkies, most solid white-glow, glow-pink, or solid purple. The white glow pattern with a single waxworm or half a Little Atom Wedgee has probably put more sunfish on the ice for me than any other three lures combined. The #12 and #14 sizes are tops for finessing big bluegills, while larger ones are awesome crappie jigs, tipped with a tiny minnow, jumbo waxie, or color-matched Wedgee or Ice Mite plastic.

Lindy Ice Worm: An extension of the horizontal jig concept, the tri-segmented Lindy Ice Worm (previously called the Genz Worm), was created by the master himself. Dave Genz intended it as a lure to reach deep perch faster, though it works in many situations. Two key features give it a rapid, nearly horizontal drop: An oversized head segment and an eyelet positioned further down the hook shank. Snug the knot tight to create a 90-degree angle between line and hook shank. Then tip it with a mass of eurolarvae to get the Ice Worm rocking as you jig it. A Berkley PowerBait Ice Whipworm also creates a segmented worm effect, an awesome big perch combo.

Fished over soft-bottom zones, this combo is killer for fish feeding on bloodworms. Genz advocated a slow, vertical climb, emulating the ascending actions of midge larvae as they vacate their benthic habitat. Drop the jig to the bottom and slowly inch it upward, using little rod tip quivers to make the jig dance as it rises, before dropping it back into the substrate.

Of note for this season is the introduction of a tungsten Lindy Ice Worm, along with tungsten renditions of their Toad, Bug, and Fat Boy.

Little Atom Shmoe: Created by Butwinski in 1959, the Shmoe Spoon remains deadly for most veteran crappie anglers, though often under other names. The Shmoe’s magic stems from its two-tone colorations—glow head, contrasting body—as well as its light-wire hook. Tip it with a small minnow, with the hook lightly piercing the skin parallel to the dorsal fin, point toward the head.

This combo has been so effective for crappies, perch, and walleyes that it could appear beside the definition of deadstick. The original thin gold hook remains an indispensable detail, pairing beautifully with tiny minnows. It’s light enough to keep baits alive and kicking, and can be bent repeatedly without breaking. I open the hook gap slightly, so it’s barely offset, and it hooks and holds crappies and walleyes better.

The Shmoe’s so productive fished in place with a lively minnow that it’s not necessary to jig it. But when you see fish eyeballing it on sonar or a camera, a fluid sweep of the rod, followed by a slow fluttering pause, usually closes the deal.

Fiskas Wolfram Epoxy Jig: Unlike the bass segment of the sport in which casual anglers follow tournament results like box scores, most ice fishers pay little attention to competitive events. That’s unfortunate when you consider some of the biggest breakthroughs—such as tungsten jigs and plastics—first gained fame in circuits such as the ‘Trap Attacks and NAIFC.

Anglers such as Mike McNett, Tony Boshold, and Phil and Jeff Morse have won so many NAIFC events with Fiskas Wolfram (tungsten) jigs that it’s surprising the tungsten trend took so long to go mainstream. Jamie Olson, owner of yourbobbersdown.com—primary North American distributor of Sweden-based Fiskas jigs—says more tournament money has been won with a 4-mm Fiskas E Series jig, white with glow red bead, than any other single ice lure. He ought to know, having sold thousands of them to tournament anglers out of his van during in the early tourney days.

A Fiskas Wolfram jig, coupled with a Little Atom Wedgee or Nuggie, is the archetypal tungsten-plastic pairing and Fiskas remains my all-time favorite. Hooks are fine-wire, durable, and sticky sharp. The paint doesn’t chip and their red and purple jigs with glow beads on the hook shank remain favorites. You can tie them with a loop knot to add jig action and pivot, but I’ve become a fan of the snell knot tied around the base of the head, which serves like a barb for holding softbaits in place.

Fiskas N24 Balance: It’s amazing that anglers continue to overlook this incredible bluegill jig, especially considering it’s in the same category as the classic Rapala Jigging Rap. Fiskas offers 29 varieties of “balance” lures, and the N24 “Gill Getter” is maybe the most remarkable. With a single hook on either side of the jig’s head, sunfish and other reluctant biters can’t bite it without getting stung.

Past NAIFC champion Phil Morse is a balance lure fanatic, tipping one hook on the Gill Getter with a Micro Nuggie. “No matter how or where ‘gills bite this jig, they can’t avoid one of the tiny hooks,” he says. “It glides beautifully after you twitch it and returns to a perfect horizontal posture at rest.” It’s tiny, just 1/50-ounce with two #18 hooks. But amid tough bites, it’s hard to beat.

Akara Disco Ball: We’ve often written in In-Fisherman about the value of through-head style tungsten jigs for fishing thread-thin lines for small fish. If you ask top ice anglers from Latvia, Russia, and North America to agree on one elite ice jig, it would almost certainly resemble a gold Akara Tungsten Mormishka Disco Ball.

Through-head jigs require the angler to tie a snell knot, passing the line through the jig’s head, and wrapping it around the hook shank. The advantage is a knot that doesn’t require repositioning or retying nearly as frequently as other designs, and a jig that hangs at the same near-horizontal posture. The knot also serves as a barb or keeper to secure softbaits.

What separates gold disco ball heads from plain or painted heads is the reflective properties of the multi-faceted metallic surface. When you look at this jig on an Aqua-Vu camera, you can’t miss the sparkle its faceted surface creates. Gold can be an exceptional hue for bluegills and crappies. I spent most of the 2015 season fishing this jig for sunfish and never regretted it. And it’s a confidence jig for some of the best panfish anglers I know.

Jeff’s Jigs Tungsten Zoo Bug: A departure from about every other jig you’ve fished, the Zoo Bug is an exceptional Daphnia mimic, the only one I know of. In 2013, master fly and jig tier Jeff Wenger and I began discussing the possibility of producing a super-realistic zooplankton imitation. Wenger blew me away with the Zoo Bug, a beautiful transparent-bodied jig-fly with anatomically correct antennae and an internal tungsten bead. Unique to the Zoo Bug is its semisoft epoxy exterior, weighted body, and remarkable underwater action, mimicking the real thing in a supersized rendition.

It’s garnered a considerable following, particularly among younger tournament anglers and guides, prompting Wenger to quit his “real job” and become a full-time tier. He sells loads of these jigs, staying busy year-round.

Give it short darting actions with a Thorne Bros Quiverstick Stealth or other fast-tip ice rod, imitating the bug-like stop-and-go motions of live Daphnia—one of the primary wintertime foods of crappies and sunfish. Tip it with a single waxworm, a trio of eurolarvae, or a plastic tail, such as a J & S Plastics Ice Mite Jr., or fish it plain.

With the success the Zoo Bug, Wenger also offers Tungsten Copepods, Scuds, and a sweet shrimp imitation. Don’t go to Devils Lake without a stash of his Tungsten Shrimp, a favorite producer of big crustacean-munching perch.

Northland Tackle Forage Minnow Spoon: Probably the lure responsible for more big perch than any other in my box, a 1/32- or 1/16-ounce Forage Minnow Spoon is an amazing lure. With a bent shape in a small package, its thin silhouette is suggestive of food.

Given the spoon’s lifelike qualities, you can’t fish it wrong by imparting tiny twitches or raising it by slowly elevating your rod tip or reeling. Try to get perch and crappies to chase the lure up in the water column until they can’t resist striking. That failing, quickly flutter the spoon back to bottom and start over again.

Tip each tine of the red treble hook with multiple maggots or a small minnow head. I’ve also had success with a Northland Impulse Perch Eye. Choose a tipping that’s heavy enough to make the hook pivot and dance with the slightest movement of the lure.

Salmo Chubby Darter: The original “ice crankbait,” the Salmo Chubby Darter is another one with a cool story, created by In-Fisherman digital editor Jeff Simpson. He carved prototypes for what would become the Salmo Chubby Darter over 15 years ago. “I grew up fishing South Dakota’s prairie lakes, which lack structure or edges,” Simpson says. “The fish there are nomads; you have to move and drill constantly to stay on the bite. The idea behind the Chubby Darter was to create a lure that would call fish to me.

“I carved the first ones from balsa, then weighted them with enough lead to sink. That first day, my friend Paul Schamber laid on the ice and watched the action. Within seconds of jigging the first Chubby Darter, walleyes and perch were surrounding and striking it. Everywhere we drilled a hole and dropped the bait, fish seemed to swarm it. Salmo in Poland didn’t stray from my original prototypes, other than to add sweet paint jobs and build the lures from foam instead of wood.

Simpson says the Darter was the first of its kind, with an action similar to a crankbait, vibrating and darting on the upstroke, wobbling on the fall. It’s may be the best ice lure for triggering jumbo crappies, perch, and walleyes I’ve fished, depending on what size you select among 4 options from 11â’„3- to 21â’„2 inches.

Rapala Jigging Rap: The W2 and W3 Jigging Rap is, like several others on this list, a timeless, hall of famer that always catches fish. Over deep flats or along drop-offs, the Rap remains an efficient, alluring option, particularly for big perch and crappies. For years, we talked about tipping the treble hook with maggots or a minnow head. Today, we know this is generally unnecessary. Keep it twitching and dancing as you jig it in the water column, daring fish to chase and commit. Pause frequently.

Fished with one of the micro braided lines (I like 3-pound test Sufix Nanobraid) and an 18-inch leader of 4-pound fluorocarbon, a W2 Jigging Rap also is an overlooked bluegill bait, selecting for big fish. One overlooked presentation involves holding the Rap still, just above fish level, and occasionally quivering it nervously.

*In-Fisherman Field Editor Cory Schmidt, Brainerd, Minnesota, is an avid ice angler and industry insider.

Not sure what scope to get for your 1-8x?

Look no further.

I’ve tested ALL the best 1-8x scope (plus 1-8xscope mounts and accessories.)

By the end of this guide, you’ll find the perfect optic for your 1-8x.

Let’s get started!

1-6x vs. 1-8x Scope

If you’re looking for a versatile short to mid-range scope, 1-6x or 1-8x is your best bet.

But, what’s the difference between these two choices and which is better?

Keep reading to find out…

1-6x Scope

A 1-6x scope has a variable magnification from 1x to 6x and can be set anywhere in between.

This scope can pretty much do everything you could need. At a close range of about 25 yards, you’ll be able to target and shoot almost as quickly as you could with a red dot. Which makes these scopes a great choice for an SKS rifle or any home defense rifle.

At 6x magnification, you should be able to shoot out to 1000 yards, although not extremely accurately. The sweet spot is closer to 400 yards for optimum clarity and accuracy. This is great for 3 gun competitions and most hunting situations.

1-8x Scope

With the 1-8x scope, you’ll get an extra 2x of magnification range.

While you still get 1x magnification, this scope isn’t as great at the super short ranges. It’s most effective range is around 300-500 yards, with a little give or take above and below that.

It’s great for hunting, since that’s right around the normal distances that most people prefer to hunt. However, it does have some disadvantages to the 1-6x.

Which is better?

Both the 1-6x and 1-8x variable magnification scopes are great, depending on what your main function for them will be.

There’s only a few differences between the two scopes. The main difference is the eyebox. On a 1-8x, the eyebox noticeably shrinks. With a pickier eyebox, it can be a little more difficult to use.

But, if you’re bench shooting, it may not make a huge difference for you.

Another issue is the weight and the cost. Most of the time, a 1-8x scope will both be heavier and more expensive than the 1-6x. For something like a muzzleloader, the 1-8x is likely going to weigh you down. And if you’re looking for a scope under $100, 1-8x is likely out of the question.

The benefit to the 1-8x is, of course, that you get an extra 2x of magnification, which allows you to target and shoot further. It also usually will have better glass quality than the 1-6x. Although that will really depend on the scope brand.

But, the 1-8x has to be at full magnification for the reticle to give you the best results. And that extra 2x of magnification almost always coincides with a loss of clarity, as well as a tighter eyebox.

In most cases, the 1-6x is the better choice. It does almost everything and has the best overall value. The benefits of the 1-8x don’t really outweigh the downsides, unless you really need the extra magnification. So, if you do a fair amount of long range shooting, the 1-8x might be worth it.

Another thing you’ll want to consider when choosing the right scope is whether the reticle is first focal plane or second focal plane…

What is the Difference Between First Focal Plane and Second Focal Plane?

There are a few key differences between these two types of scopes, which should help you to decide which is better for your setup.

First Focal Plane

First Focal Plane, or FFP, scopes have the reticle right in front of the magnification lens. What this means is that when the magnification changes, so does the reticle.

The reticle will increase or decrease in size as the magnification gets higher or lower.

The benefit to this type of scope is that the holdover or subtension values stay consistent and accurate, no matter the magnification. This makes it the best suited for long range shooting.

The downside to this is that the reticle can get pretty small at lower magnifications, making it difficult to see. Also, the reticle gets bigger and thicker at high magnifications, and the lines could block part of your view.

On top of that, FFP scopes are quite a bit more expensive than the SFP.

Second Focal Plane

Second Focal Plane, or SFP, scopes have the reticle behind the magnification lens. So, with these, the reticle doesn’t change its size at all.

The great thing about this is that the reticle is strong and easy to see, no matter the magnification. And it doesn’t get in your way at all.

Unlike the FFP, short range shots are quick and easy to see, which makes SFP perfect for home defense and close range hunting like you’d do with a 45-70 or any other hunting rifle.

Another bonus is that SFP scopes are a lot more affordable than the FFP scopes.

The downside is that the spacing for holdover is only correct at the highest magnification. Which means that you’ll have to calculate it when you’re using it at the lower magnification settings.

When you’re trying to choose between the two, the SFP is most common and the popular choice. Unless you do a lot of really long range shooting or long range competitions, which is where the FFP scopes excel, the SFP is a better overall value.

The 5 Best 1-8x Scope

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best 1-8x scope:

1. Swarovski Optiks L Z8i 1-8×24: Best 1-8 Scope
2. Athlon Argos BTR GEN2 1-8×24: Best for AR-15
3. UTG 1-8×28: Best for the Budget
4. Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP: Best 1-8x FFP Scope
5. Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32: Best for Hunting

1. Swarovski Optiks L Z8i 1-8×24: Best 1-8 Scope

If you are in the market for a scope to use with your 45-70 and want the best in the industry, look no further than Swarovski Optiks.

The Swarovski Optics L Z8i 1-8×24 is the clearest scope on the market.

Let me tell you why….

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Swavorski sets the standard for best optics glass in the industry-hands down. No one does it better than this Austrian company. A few may come close-but they can’t quite cut it.

Between near perfect glass clarity and the fully-multi coated lenses, the L Z8i line transmits 93% of visible light.

Meaning this is the clearest and brightest view through an optic that you’ll ever see. After using this scope, even my “best” scopes seem hazy.

The view on this scope is truly clear and precise from edge-to-edge. Other scopes may claim they have edge-to-edge clarity, but really, they only have 70% of the range this scope has.

There’s no fuzzing at the edge of objects. I couldn’t get a sharper sight picture if I had cut it with an exact-o knife.

When I took this optic out to the range, I didn’t need a spotter. I could clearly see all the hits on my paper-even pushing passed 500 yards. There’s no questioning where my shots landed.

This scope is outstanding and as Swarovski’s flagship line, the Z8i 1-8×24 outperforms all other scopes you’ll ever use in low-light situations.

The illuminated Flex-change 4A-IF reticle gives me a fully adjustable red dot. Or if I’d prefer, I can toggle to a red dot centered in an illuminated red circle.

The red dot illumination levels are the most adjustable I’ve ever seen: there are 64 different intensity levels.

The scope also features an ingenuitive battery saving feature-if the scope senses that the rifle isn’t being held at a shooting angle, it turns the red dot off.

The reticle cross hairs are thin and unobstructive. I can clearly see my target. The Z8i 1-8×24 comes with either a BDC reticle or a simple duplex.

If you have an eye condition that makes red dots hard to see, you might be interested in holographic sights.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on this particular Swarovski is pretty standard: 3.74 inches (95mm).

I found the eyebox forgiving. I use this scope in 3-gun competitions and I can easily see my shots from cover or around odd angles.

Durability

The Swarovski L Z8i 1-8×24 is nitrogen purged to prevent fogging.

The aluminum housing is sturdy and strong. It holds up to heavy recoil and can take a beating. As I said, I use this for 3-gun competitions so it gets thrown around and beat up.

This scope isn’t a “gun-safe queen” that I only bring out to the range on sunny days. I don’t treat it softly. It’s a tool and I work it hard.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The Swarovski L Z8i’s turrets turn with 0.1 MRAD clicks. The turrets turn with a tactile click that I can hear and feel.

The turrets are compact and unobtrusive. They are easy to turn.

Swarovski offers turret upgrades called Ballistic Turret Flex or BTF. These are aftermarket turrets you can swap out for both the elevation and windage ones that come standard from the factory.

They cost about $300 each and you don’t need extra tools to install them.

What’s the benefit of the BTF turrets?

Well, they allow me to set zeros for 3 different distances to better fine-tune your shots.

For example I can set and save zero for 100 yards, 250 yards and 500 yards to improve accuracy and take the guesswork out of hold overs or hold unders.

Personally, I think they are a worthwhile upgrade. If you’re going to spend almost $3000 on the scope, spending an extra $600 for pin-point customized accuracy is a no-brainer.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification range on this Z8i is 1-8x. The single power is a near perfect 1x. The true 1x paired with an illuminated reticle makes it easy to engage close range targets with both eyes open.

The 8x is impressively clear. I could easily pop 6 inch steel targets from 800 yards.

With the aid of a throw lever, I can slam through the magnification range on the Z8i for quick target acquisition or identification-making this a perfect optic for defensive or battle use.

There’s no questioning my target in low light situations because I can clearly see it.

Check out my list of the other top 1-6x scopes on the market for a comparison.

Mounting & Rings

This optic has a 30mm tube. Any 30mm ring set will work quite well. I prefer to use these mounts from Vortex. They are only compatible with a picatinny rail. They won’t mount to a weaver.

Is the Swarovski L Z8i 1-8×24 worth it?

Swarovski set a high bar for optic clarity that all optics companies are trying to reach. As Swarovski’s flagship scope line, the Z8i is the best scope you can buy.

They don’t need any extra bells and whistles that other companies add to their optics to distract you from their inferior glass and coatings.

As such the Swarovski L Z8i 1-8×24 is the worth it because it has:

• Durable design
• Flex-Change reticle
• Unbelievable clarity
• 93% Light transmission

Why settle for any old optic, when you can get the best?

2. Athlon Argos BTR GEN2 1-8×24: Best for AR-15

The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 has a set of features that make it perfect for the AR-15.

In fact:

I’ve personally bought and hand-tested this scope to see if these claims were true, and they most certainly were.

Need proof? I’ve got it all laid out down below.

Glass Clarity and Reticle

The excellent glass quality gave me a picture with no distortion or blurring to be seen. Nothing but a crisp, crystal clear image of the target.

The glass is fully multi coated and excels at drawing in ambient light for a much brighter picture. Its anti-reflective glass reduces light reflections, making it perfect at drawing less attention to your position.

The reticle is horseshoe shaped and works perfectly for aiming at silhouettes. It draws my eye to the target quickly and is useful even at maximum range. I was especially impressed with how simplistic it was so that I could focus on what I was aiming at.

I was impressed by the illuminated reticle. Targeting was a breeze even around dawn and dusk, especially when combined with the multi coatings ability to draw in ambient light.

Eye Relief and Eye Box

The eye relief is a generous 3.4” and led to no issues even at max range.

As I expected once I saw how great the glass quality was, I didn’t suffer from eye fatigue even after several hours of use. The glass is clear all the way through and even around the edges there was no sign of blurring or distortion.

Eye box was also a non-issue. I was able to easily center my picture and didn’t have to get into an uncomfortable position to do it.

Durability

The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 was designed to be as durable as possible.

During testing I dropped it, banged it around, and fully submerged it in water. The high levels of abuse didn’t even scuff the exterior of the scope, much less damage the interior. It also held my zero with no issues throughout the testing.

How was it able to do all of this?

The aircraft grade aluminum this scope is made of can already handle just about anything you can throw at it, but it also has an XPL coating on the lenses.

This prevents any dirt or oil from affecting the glass and helps prevent any scratches.

It’s also argon purged and completely waterproof.

You won’t have to worry about any fogging or moisture damage even in the roughest of terrains. The one tube construction gives it an extra layer of durability as well.

Elevation and Windage Turrets

The turrets on the Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 are top of the line.

Each adjustment gave crisp audible clicks just as good turrets should. Even with heavy recoil they never adjusted without me wanting them to, which is one of the top criteria I expect from them.

The best part?

It only took me 20 rounds to find my zero, and it solidly held it for the next 300 after that.

Parallax and Magnification

The parallax is fixed at 100 yards, and even bouncing between magnifications this proved to work just fine.

The magnification is 1-8x. The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 is capable of landing some pretty distant shots, but its real strength is in the close to mid range. It is best used for close quarters combat, target shooting, or hunting.

While this scope would go best with an AR, even higher power rifles work well with it. I also slapped this scope on one of my lever actions, and it’s without a doubt the best scope for Marlin .45-70.

Mounting and Rings

The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 does not come with any mounting or rings.

I highly recommend getting the Vortex Optics Pro Series rings, as they mesh very well with this particular scope. $60 for the 30mm is a small price to pay for keeping your scope secure.

Is the Athlon Argos BTR GEN2 worth it?

If you’re looking for a scope for your AR-15 that can deliver amazing glass quality, incredible durability, and unmatched versatility, then look no further than the Athlon Argos BTR Gen2.

Here’s why:

• Audible turrets
• Extreme durability
• Crystal clear multi-coated glass
• Horseshoe reticle for easy silhouette targeting

To sum it up: this scope has an amazing set of features that would be at home on any sort of semi-automatic rifle.

It’s a very reasonable price for the product’s quality, and I’m honestly surprised it wasn’t higher. The level of effort that was put in to make this scope incredibly durable with the high quality glass is clearly well above the norm.

So if you need an AR-15 scope that can handle any situation you get into, then look no further than the Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 1-8×24.

3. UTG 1-8×28: Best for the Budget

Searching for an all-around budget scope is tiring.

I’ve found one for you.

And it’s the best scope deal anywhere. Here’s why.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Clear glass. Super clear.

The fully-multicoated emerald coatings on this scope allow maximum light transmission. With the 28mm objective lens, lighting just before dawn or after dusk can be tricky at high magnification, but it works well through most of the range.

In low light conditions, it will provide plenty of brightness at 5x or less to pop those pesky critters that keep attacking the chicken coop.

There are several reticle options available, so get the one you prefer. A BDC is available that is pre-set for .223 or 5.56 rounds, making this the perfect budget scope for an AR-15. It also comes in mil-dot and dot-circle variants.

In all cases, the reticle is etched, so if the battery dies you will still have a point of aim.

All of the extra colors seem a bit excessive to me personally, but I have mine set on the brightest red I could find and I just leave it there. If you want more color options, there are 36 in total, so you can go red, green, blue, yellow, teal, or whatever you want.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

Some say that a “true” 1x scope should have infinite eye relief, but the reality is that complex lens arrangements make this impossible.

Still, I tested the eye relief as soon as I picked up the scope, and at 1x I could fit my whole hand between my eye and the scope and see just fine. Then I read the specs.

A whopping five inches of relief at 1x, and it only drops to 3.4 inches at 8x. In short, the eye relief is plenty for any application, especially high kick rifles. It’s probably the best scope for lever action 45-70.

The eye box is roomy, bigger than the front objective, making the whole setup very pleasant in both hunting and battle situations.

Durability

UTG continues to innovate, trying to keep up with the likes of Leupold and other top manufacturers, while keeping their price point down.

The tube is nitrogen purged and sealed with o-rings to ensure that it is water tight and will never fog up.

They’ve also started using this coil erector return spring on some of their scopes. Think of this like the shocks on your car. Even under heavy recoil or an occasional bump, the inner guts are protected from damage and remain solid, holding your zero under adverse conditions.

It also uses a smart spherical structure to maintain integrity of the outer skin to inner components. Every piece of this scope was designed around being tough, and it lives up to that reputation on top of my .308.

With the included heavy-duty mount, all of this strength does come at a cost. The scope itself is 18oz and mounted can be over a pound and a half. More on the mount later.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets have a solid click, a feature that I like.

There’s nothing worse than mushy turrets that make you take your eye off the target just to ensure that you have the right elevation dialed in for the range.

The ½MOA clicks are fast to dial in, and there are no caps in the way, so you can click over to the proper elevation and windage easily.

Parallax & Magnification

Parallax is fixed at 100 yards. This may bother some people, but if you have a solid cheek weld, you really can’t ask for more from a budget scope.

For the price of an air rifle scope, the important thing is how well the secondary focal plane and optical path are aligned. Even without adjustment, the maximum deviation due to parallax isn’t going to be enough to affect the shot too much, unless you are looking for a competition scope.

Mounting & Rings

The UTG 1-8X28 comes with its own mounting system. Depending on which variant you purchase, it will come with a single clamp mount for a Picatinny rail or two rings that will work with Picatinny or Weaver rails.

As I mentioned earlier, the scope rings are a little heavy, but they are also built ultra-rugged. This review on youtube suggested that you could smack the mount with a hammer and not budget:

I wouldn’t recommend that, but it is a super solid mounting system.

Is the UTG 1-8×28 worth it?

The UTG 1-8x28mm scope is the best all-around scope for the price, period.

For hunting, target shooting, combat, you name it, you won’t find a better optic for even twice the price. The only applications where you might want something else if if you needed a red-dot scope or a true long-range target scope.

• Fully-coated optics
• Responsive tactile clicks
• Wide magnification range
• Layers of durability through design
• Includes mounting rings, battery, and more

By the way, it also comes with a lifetime warranty from UTG!

If you want the best all-around scope for the money, the UTG 1-8×28 is it, hands down.

4. Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP: Best 1-8x FFP Scope

If you’re looking for the best 1-8x FFP scope, the Primary Arms SLx8 is the answer.

Not only does it have all the features you’d need in this type of scope, it’s also pretty lightweight and compact.

Once I tried it, I was hooked.

Want to know why? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Primary Arms SLx8 has amazing glass quality for the price.

In fact, I was surprised that the glass was just as crystal clear as scopes twice the price.

The lenses are fully multi-coated, which draws in more light and decreases glare for the brightest, clearest sight picture.

Plus, it has a ACSS® Raptor reticle, which is a first focal plane and extremely accurate at all available magnifications. It’s also designed specifically for AR-15, AK-47, and M4 rifles.

What’s great about this reticle is that at 1x it’s basically like a small red dot, which makes for super fast target acquisition like you’d need at close quarters.

Then, at the higher magnifications, you get the full Advanced Combat Sighting System, which allows you to make precision shots out to 600 yards.

On top of that, it has 11 illumination settings and even has one that works perfectly in the brightest part of the day. All powered by one CR2032 battery that comes with the scope. And it comes with a spare!

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on the Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP is very forgiving.

It’s 3.2 inches – 3.3 inches, which means you really shouldn’t need to worry about the eye relief on this scope, especially if you’ve got a good cheek weld.

Also, this scope has a quick focus eyepiece, which helps you to get on target faster than ever.

Durability

Primary Arms is well known for its high quality products and the SLx8 1-8×24 FFP scope is no different.

It’s lightweight and compact, which makes it perfect for any setup.

Plus, it’s waterproof and fogproof, so it’ll function in any type of weather. And I can attest to this, as I’ve dropped mine in a puddle while out hunting. It came out working just the same as before.

It also comes backed with a lifetime warranty, so even if you had a problem, Primary Arms will help you get it sorted out.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage knobs are ¼ MOA click adjustments.

The turrets adjust easily with just a finger click and there’s both a tactile and audible, solid click for each adjustment.

They are also low profile, which is really nice. Plus, they come with turret caps.

What about zeroing?

It’s quick and easy. I had mine zeroed in 6-7 shots at 100 yards. So far, it’s been dead on accurate and after 500 rounds, it’s still held zero.

Parallax & Magnification

The Primary Arms SLx8 has a variable magnification of 1-8x.

This is the perfect range for close to mid-range distances. Basically, it works perfectly for close quarters combat, out to varmint hunting and big game hunting ranges.

1-8x is probably one of the most popular rifle scope magnification ranges because it pretty much gets you everything you could need. Unless you’re doing long range competitions or need to shoot past 600 yards, which is not as common.

As far as parallax, it’s fixed at 100 yards and I haven’t noticed any distortion.

Mounting & Rings

This scope doesn’t come with a mount, so you’ll need to purchase one separately, but considering the quality of this scope and the affordable price point, that’s to be expected.

I recommend the Primary Arms Basic AR-15 scope mount.

It works great and that’s what I use for my AR-15 mount.

Is the Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP worth it?

This scope is a great quality 1-8x scope at an affordable price compared to the competition.

You’ll get:

• Crystal clear glass
• Lightweight, compact
• Fully multi-coated lenses
• FFP ACSS® Raptor reticle
• Low profile, precise, capped turrets
• Short to mid-range precision accuracy

In short, you’ll get everything you could ask for out of a 1-8x rifle scope. Try the Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP scope. You’ll be happy you did.

5. Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32: Best for Hunting

The Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 is the best scope for hunting, hands down.

In fact,

This is the best Vortex glass I’ve owned yet, and its clarity alone has given me the opportunity for crazy shots while hunting.

Want to know more? Here’s how…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Vortex Razor HD has crystal clear glass.

It’s sharp and bright with edge to edge clarity with optically indexed lenses.

The lenses are fully multi-coated and the proprietary XR Plus Fully Multi-Coated anti-reflective coating makes sure that the scope doesn’t compromise your position.

The lenses have HD Elements like premium extra-low dispersion glass. This delivers the ultimate color and clarity for high-definition imaging in the field.

The glass actually comes from the same factory as Trijicon and the higher end Leupold scopes- same quality, with half the price tag.

It comes with a G4 BDC reticle which is super clean, highly versatile, and crisp. Your eye is drawn to the fine dot in the center, even in low light.

The G4 features five hash marks and a simple sight picture. It’s a viable option for all classes of rifles- muzzleloaders, varmint, standard, and even magnum calibers.

This reticle works well for me and I’ve come to prefer the clean field of view on the top half of the glass. It’s saved me critical seconds in the field.

The locking ocular focus ensures your reticle always stays sharp and crisp after you’ve adjusted it.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Vortex Razor HD has 3.8 inches of eye relief and a very forgiving eye box.

It’s a comfortable distance for nearly any application. But practicing good cheek weld is always a good idea.

Durability

I’ve yet to be disappointed with Vortex’s quality and this scope once again checks all of the durability boxes.

Overall, the Vortex Razor HD has a rugged construction that’s waterproof, shockproof, fogproof, and ready for whatever you throw at it.

Plus, the lifetime warranty is great for my peace of mind.

First, it’s fully waterproof. The O-ring seals make sure it stays that way by preventing moisture, dust, and debris from penetrating the optic.

The single-piece tube ensures its waterproofness while also enhancing your base optics.

The scope’s Argon gas purged body means that the scope is fog-free over a wide range of temperatures or fluctuations. You’ll have a clear shot whether that’s in the snow, sun, or rain.

The one-piece tube construction is also better at keeping out moisture, keeping your scope fog proof for the rest of its life. Plus, with less moving parts, it’s more durable for heavy recoils.

Scopes have to endure a lot in the field. The Vortex Razor HD is prepared to take a beating thanks to the ArmorTek coating, hard anodized finish, and aircraft-grade aluminum construction.

At only 13.4 oz, this optic is incredibly light and built for speed. I hate lugging around heavy optics every day during a hunting trip.

The smaller scope size (only 11 inches long) also means you can run a lighter rifle with a lower profile- music to the backcountry hunter’s ears.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are almost perfect.

Their large diameter makes the adjustments easy to read, accurate, and faster.

Plus they’re capped turrets which is a must for me. This gives them external protection that’s especially helpful when making long stalks in open country.

But they’re mushy.

The adjustments knobs feel soft and don’t have a strong click to them.

Despite the mushy feeling, they do track properly. This is the only con I’ve found with the scope so far.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification ranges from 1.5x to 8x.

This is a broad and versatile range that’s ideal for hunting.

It might not deliver extreme long distances, but it’s optimized for close- and mid-range shooting with the capacity to 600 yards on a centerfire.

Plus, on a technical note, the zoom lens mechanism glides smoothly and cleanly through all magnification ranges due to the internal precision-glide erector system.

The parallax setting is fixed to 100 yards and has worked well for me so far.

Mounting & Rings

With the compact size, this optic fits best on a short action rifle. I recommend the Vortex Optics Pro Series Riflescope Rings in the 1-inch size.

Plus, those specific rings will work with a Ruger Scout as the ocular bell clears the scout Picatinny mount by a few thousandths of an inch without removing the scout mount.

The tube is too short to mount on a long action rifle using a standard mount, but it could work if you were to install a rail or cantilever mounts.

In the box, you get a 3-inch sunshade as well which has come in handy out in the field.

Is the Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 worth it?

The Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 is an incredible optic that packs premium durability and crystal clear glass into a lightweight, compact package.

It’s a great addition for sub-600 yard rifle hunters and shooters looking for a lightweight, optically superior, riflescope.

Here’s why it works:

• G4 BDC (MOA) reticle
• Large Diameter Turrets
• Vortex lifetime warranty
• XR™ Plus Fully Multi-Coated
• HD (High Density) extra-low dispersion glass

In short, this scope will give you the added accuracy you need at a reasonable price for your next hunting trip.

If you’re looking to dramatically improve your shooting accuracy, the Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 will get you the results.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best 1-8x scopeguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which rifle scope will you pick for your 1-8x?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

One of the most often-asked questions in bow hunting is what peep sight size should I be using?

Sorry to disappoint, there isn’t a black and white answer that would instantly custom match you with the right peep size for your setup. There are more than a couple factors that you need to consider before you get all gung-ho on going with the smallest or largest size you can find.

Like everything to do with bows, there’s quite a bit that goes into answering this question since it has a lot to do with your setup, hunting style, and vision.

We’ll talk you through the ins and outs of big and small peep sight sizes. By the end, you may be closer to determining what size will do you right in the field whether you’re sticking it out during the day, you’re out at first and last light, in the stand, or long-range hunting.

Peep Sights VS No Peep Sights

You know this has to be addressed. For the many peep users out there, there are just as many that go without. But, what exactly is a peep sight? It’s a string attachment that ensures line of sight alignment between your eye using the peep, sight housing, and the target.

Peep Sight Pros & Cons

Pros:

• Encourages consistent form/anchor point
• Enhance sight picture focus
• Can improve aim and accuracy
• Easy to use
• Inexpensive
• Available in various sizes

Cons:

• Can only use one eye
• Darkens sight picture
• Can twist out of place when string becomes worn

Of course, going peepless also has its own set of benefits. It forces you to become intimately familiar with consistent anchor points so you have the same form when shooting as when you sighted in your bow. You’ll also have instant low light visibility improvement, faster target acquisition time, and obviously you won’t have to deal with any peep sight alignment issues.

However, it takes practice and effort to get used to going peepless and making it an effective move on your part. Heavy emphasis on form can’t be overstated. Like many things to do with bows and shooting, you either like it or you don’t.

A vast majority of bow shooters still use peep sights, and they’re often pre-installed when you purchase your bow. With that in mind, here’s some peep sight sizes that could do it right for your type of hunting style.

Small Peep Sights for Hunting

Peeps with small diameter sizes are known to improve accuracy. Target and competition shooters may sport small peep sights because they offer a narrow aiming window.

During normal lighting conditions that are expected with daylight hunting, a small peep can actually offer better sight picture clarity since the aperture allows for enhanced focus on the target downrange.

However, if lighting conditions were to change such as going from open areas to thick timber with heavy shading or when it’s low light, your sight picture will become dark. Those with vision problems may not benefit from using a small peep right off the bat.

So, it goes without saying that a small peep would be suitable for hunters who require extreme accuracy, say for game with small kill zones. It would only be appropriate for daylight hunting when there’s as much light as possible, and only those with average to excellent eyesight could take advantage of a small peep.

Small peep sight sizes can include 1/32″, 3/64″, 1/16″, 3/32″, and 1/8″ being the largest of this lot.

It’s worth mentioning that long axle to axle bows would pair well with small peeps since the string comes closer to the eye.

Large Peep Sights for Hunting

Peeps with larger diameter sizes may not be as accurate-driven as small peep sights. They’re geared towards allowing more light in for a brighter sight picture in low light conditions or in heavily shaded areas. They’d also be appropriate for close range hunting to take advantage of the full field of view to appropriately aim your pin on the target.

Those with problematic eyesight and vision problems would be better suited with a large peep sight for hunting. Sacrificing the accuracy expected of a small peep size within forgivable boundaries in hunting is acceptable because of the large kill zones on animals such as deer and elk.

However, even if you prefer the larger peep size, you’ll still need it to properly fit your sight picture. If you have too much floating space around the sight housing ring while looking through the peep, you will run into accuracy and form issues.

If you’re a hunter that takes advantage of first and last legal light, may have aging eyes, and may be shooting from a stand and taking close range shots, then you might want to consider a bigger peep size.

Short axle to axle bows also pair well with large peeps since they have sharp string angles that forces the peep further away from the eye.

Large peep sizes can include 3/16″, 7/32″, 1/4″, and 5/16″.

How to Use a Peep Sight

Knowing how to use a peep sight might help you to determine what the best peep sight size will be for your setup. The most popular sizing method is to opt for the peep that fits the sight housing ring. What do we mean by this? There are two different ways to use a peep sight.

Method 1:

At full draw, you center the pin you need to aim with within the middle of the peep sight. Depending on what pin you use, you may or may not see part of the top or bottom of the sight housing within the peep sight view.

Method 2:

The entire sight housing ring must match the peep sight ring. You have an unobstructed view of all pins, full field of view, and the sight housing ring matches perfectly with the peep sight.

Method 2 is the recommended way to use a peep sight since it encourages you to choose the most appropriate peep size for your setup. It also ensures your anchor point remains the same regardless of what pin you need to aim with. Slightly move at the waist to get the right pin on your target’s kill zone.

Method 1 is still used by some, however, it can cause a drop in your anchor point to get your bottom pins centered. Moving your anchor point means inconsistent form, reduced accuracy, and can be a complete miss.

Trying out a few different sizes while at a dealer will also help to narrow down what size works best for your setup. If you plan on using the same bow for multiple activities no matter the time of day or lighting conditions, you can save time finding the right peep sight size and opt for a specialty peep sight.

Specialty Archery Peep Sights

These types of sights may be adjustable in diameter, easily interchangeable to be transferred from bow to bow, and are completely compatible to be used with different bow sights. They are typically more expensive than your average one-size peep, but the cost may be worth it if your needs require the specialty features.

You might also be interested in what peep accessories such as a clarifier and verifier can do for your sight picture.

Only You Know the Answer

Outfitting the perfect peep to match your setup is a personal touch. Your vision is needed to confirm whether a certain peep will work for you.

Although trying out different peeps might be tedious, it’ll be worth it in the end. Taking the time to properly prep your gear for the hunt will improve your odds for success. At the very least, you won’t be one of them who loses the shot for whatever reason because you have the wrong size peep!

Further Reading

• How to Measure Scope Ring Height (With Pics & Calculations)
• How to Adjust a Rifle Scope: 6 Scope Adjustments Explained!
• How to Level a Scope on a Rifle [Step-by-Step With Pics]
• What is a Rifle Scope Ruler (Mildot Master) & How to Use It?
• What is a Prism Scope? Prism VS Reflex VS LPVO!

Joe Rogan has a lot of friends. But some of his best friends are people who he met through hunting. There is a certain bond that happens when you go out into the wild, track an animal down, and then share the meat over a fire for dinner.

Since he picked up hunting in 2012, Rogan has been hunting with a lot of different people including, hunting experts Steven Rinella, Doug Duren, Cameron Hanes, John Dudley, Ben O’Brien, Mike Hawkridge, and Ryan Callaghan, and friends Bryan Callen, Jocko Willink, and Andy Stumpf.

Also see: 7 Reasons Why Elk is Joe Rogan’s Favorite Meat

Steven Rinella & Ryan Callaghan

For Joe Rogan’s first hunt, he couldn’t have picked a better, more skillful hunting guide than Steven Rinella.

Rinella is one of the best hunters in the world and the host of MeatEater, a show about hunting and eating wild game. He also authored several books, including the popular The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game.

Ryan Callaghan is a guide who also accompanied Joe Rogan and Bryan Callen on their first hunt. He serves the role of MeatEater‘s Director of Conservation.

Check out this incredible video of Steven Rinella and Ryan Callaghan getting charged by a female grizzle bear and her cubs.

Cameron Hanes

A frequent JRE podcast guest, Hanes is an extremely skilled bow hunter and a really good friend of Rogan. He is a former Under Armour sponsored athlete, now sponsored by Origin, and a complete beast in long distance running.

Hanes helped mentor Rogan’s bowhunting skills and shooting technique. On one particular hunt, Cameron helped Joe hunt a huge mule deer with a rifle when it got out of bow range. They’ve also been elk hunting in Utah together.

He has authored a few books, including Backcountry Bowhunting and Bowhunting Trophy Blacktail and has been on the JRE podcast over 10 times.

Also see: Who Is Cameron Hanes? A Look at His Amazing Life

John Dudley

John Dudley is a professional archery athlete and a world renowned archery coach. He won the International Bowhunting Organization (IBO) National Championship for archery.

Dudley’s brand, Nock On Archery, is complete with a podcast, apparel store, archery instruction, and bowhunting gear.

Dudley and Rogan like to go elk hunting together and then grill out with the guys. He has been on the JRE podcast 5 times.

Also see: The Amazing Life of John Dudley: Nock On Archery & Hunting

Ben O’Brien

O’Brien is the Director of Hunting for MeatEater and the host of The Hunting Collective podcast. He’s been on the JRE podcast twice so far in episodes #987 and #1215.

Petersen’s Hunting magazine featured a fantastic article written by O’Brien called Eat What You Kill: How Joe Rogan is Celebrating the Wild Meat Movement, which is definitely worth checking out.

Mike Hawkridge

Hawkridge, owner of AlphaDog Outdoors, is a lifelong hunter and skilled outdoorsman. He serves as a hunting guide that is available for hire, located in British Colombia, Canada.

Joe Rogan and Ben O’Brien hired Hawkridge for a late season bull moose hunt. The hunt was successful and they tagged a big one.

Here’s what Joe Rogan had to say about Mike Hawkridge:

When you meet him, get a good look at him and take it all in, because in this ever feminized world we’re living in, real men like him are the last of a dying breed.

-Joe Rogan on Mike Hawkridge

Bryan Callen

Rogan and Callen are both stand-up comedians and have known each other for over 20 years.

When Rogan decided to go hunting, Callen was the guy he wanted to go with him. According to Callen, Rogan called him up and pitched him an idea, saying “We’re going hunting man and I need you there.” Callen replied, “Count me in!”

Here is what Joe has said about Bryan:

“Bryan is one of my best friends if not my best friend. We’ve essentially been best friends since the day we met. He’s one of the funniest human beings I’ve ever met in my life.

He’s not a whiner, not a complainer, he’s not a guy that’s not going to be able to deal with the cold. He’s not going to fall apart or freak out. He’s a man. He can do anything, he’s just that dude.”

-Joe Rogan on Bryan Callen being his choice

Bryan explained that his conception of hunters before he went hunting was stereotypical:

“You get a bunch of guys with beer guts in camouflage and they go out and blast whatever they see.

What I came away with was a notion of profound respect for what it takes to be a good hunter and the understanding of the animal you are hunting, it’s behavior and the environment in which you’re in.”

-Bryan Callen

Also see: How Does Joe Rogan Cook Elk Steak: A Mouth-Watering Recipe!

Jocko Willink

Willink, a former Navy Seal and JRE podcast guest, went on a bow hunt in Northern Utah with Joe Rogan, Cameron Hanes, and Andy Stumpf. Jocko said, “You couldn’t really ask for a better crew of people.”

“There is something very primal about going hunting. It’s kind of like jiu-jitsu.”

“You are out, you’re stalking, sneaking around. It has a lot of correlations to my old job (navy seal). You’re trying to be quiet, setting up tactics, trying to maneuver on the enemy, on these animals.”

-Jocko Willink

Andy Stumpf

A formal Navy Seal officer, Stumpf went on the above mentioned hunt with Joe Rogan, Jocko Willink and Cameron Hanes in northern Utah.

In 2015, Stumpf set a world record by skydiving from 36,500 feet in an effort to raise money for the Navy Seal Foundation. He’s also been on the JRE Podcast multiple times.

Also see: 8 Navy SEALS That Have Been on Joe Rogan’s Podcast

Doug Duren

A farmer and conservationist, Duren hosted Joe Rogan, Bryan Callen, and Steven Rinella on his farm to hunt.

In 2014 Duren said, “A year ago I would have been completely against having two comedians come here (his farm) to hunt.”

Doug warmed up to the idea after hearing Rogan and Callen on the JRE podcast, realizing that they were two smart, funny as hell guys, who also respectful of hunting and wildlife.

Joe told Doug after the hunt, “ Thanks for being a great host. Thanks for being a great guy and providing us with an opportunity to have an incredible experience. You can’t have a better time, you can have a different time, but you can’t have a better time.”

*****

Thanks for reading!

Maybe you know this, but –

Rem Oil’s been getting a bad rep lately.

More specifically, some people are complaining about:

• The oil being too thin
• Evaporating easily
• Not lubing properly
• Etc.

So, I decided to take a closer look.

• What is is that people are complaining about?
• And is Rem Oil really as bad as people say?

Ready? Let’s jump right in…

What is Rem Oil?

Rem Oil is a superior lubricant for firearms. You use it to lubricate your guns, as well as to protect them from corrosion.

I underlined the word lubricant because people keep comparing Rem Oil to different products:

• Hoppe’s #9 (a solvent)
• Ballistol (a CLP)
• Froglube (lubricant)
• Rmcoil (lubricant)

Rem oil is not a solvent. Rem Oil is not a CLP.

It’s a lubricant – and it works differently from CLP’s and solvents.

But most importantly…

Rem Oil Gets The Job Done

Here’s a fact:

Most gun oils work fine if you use them according to instructions. Including Rem Oil.

Every top brand will be 99% good enough for your needs. Unless you are a competition shooter, or you have unusual weather conditions.

And while Rem Oil may not be the best gun oil on the market…

It gets the job done.

Now you’re probably wondering:

If Rem Oil’s so good then why does it have such a bad reputation?

Look.

I’m certain that the people complaining about Rem Oil are simply using it wrong. There’s no other explanation.

How To Use Rem Oil

Here’s how you use Rem Oil properly:

1. Apply the oil
2. Let it sit for a bit
3. Wipe the oil off completely (Don’t leave a single drop hanging there)

You need to wipe everything off because Rem Oil is a surface treatment.

What this means, is that the only useful part of the oil is the one that sticks to the surface of your gun. Any Rem Oil NOT stuck to the surface is useless.

After proper application, the surface should appear dry. It shouldn’t have a “wax coating”. This may seem unnatural, but that’s the proper way to use this product. You’re basically seasoning the surface as you would do on an iron skillet.

By now you can probably guess that –

The problem that most people have with Rem Oil is that they put TOO MUCH OIL on their gun.

The oil that doesn’t soak in runs off the gun. That’s where the bad rep comes from – that Rem Oil is “runny”.

Rem Oil needs to soak because of how it’s made.

What’s Rem Oil Made Of: The Ingredients

Rem Oil has a mineral oil base. Same as most other gun oils.

What makes it different from some is the added Teflon. Teflon transforms into a super-thin film on your gun’s surfaces. The thin film decreases friction and acts as a barrier against corrosion.

The Teflon membrane sticks to the gun and can’t be wiped away.

It’s the protection factor of Rem Oil. You won’t see it, but it’s there after treatment.

Rem Oil Performance

The real question is:

Is Rem Oil worth the money when compared to other gun oils?

Well, let’s start with the good.

Rust Protection

One thing that Rem’s good for is Rust Protection. There was a comparison I read a few years ago.

Rem Oil received superior ratings for rust inhibition in comparison to Hoppes’s and Breakfree CLP.

Extreme Temperatures

The same test also ranked Rem Oil as #1 gun oil for extreme cold.

I’m talking about minus 20-30 degrees kind of cold. All other oils would gum up and slow the action down.

You’ll probably never shoot your gun under those conditions, but it’s still good to know.

Rem Oil Alternatives

Crosman RMCoil vs Rem Oil

From the specs alone, these two should be equally good.

Both are lubricants, and both are quite thin and runny. Rmcoil doesn’t have Teflon in its formula, so I would pick Rem Oil over it.

Couldn’t find any proper comparison video, so let me know in the comments if you have anything.

Rem Oil vs. Hoppe’s #9

You can see that Hoppe’s No. 9 performs significantly better than Rem Oil when it comes to solvent capability.

Click the play button and see the comparison for yourself.

Side note: I’ve always liked the precision tip bottle of Hoppe’s 9. It makes the oil easy to use. You don’t get that with REM oil.

Rem Oil vs. Froglube

According to the video below, Rem Oil and Froglube perform about the same.

Get whichever is cheapest.

Rem Oil vs. Ballistol

Ballistol is generally regarded as better than Rem Oil.

They’re both mineral oils. But the difference is that:

• Rem Oil doesn’t emulsify in water. It acts like a normal oil – you put it in the water and sticks to the surface.
• Ballistol emulsifies in water. It will spread out in the water, and won’t rise back out on the surface. It becomes a part of the water.

So, Ballistol has an advantage.

It remains on your gun after you clean out the water. Protecting your barrel from corrosion.

Bottom Line: Performance

Rem Oil performs best you use it to wipe down the outside surface of the gun. Even though there are better all-rounder gun oils out there, Rem Oil is one of the best for rust protection.

It’s not that good for lubing the moving parts inside the gun that get heated. For the insides of your gun, you’re better off sticking with a proper CLP (such as Ballistol) or solvent (Hoppe’s #9).

Now, the next bit might be just me, but…

As I’ve mentioned above, it’s normal for Rem Oil to ‘dry’ inside your gun.

I don’t know about you but… I want to know that there is a layer of something inside my gun when I’m shooting.

And that’s just not the case with Rem Oil.

Sorry, Rem.

In a nutshell, here’s what you’re getting with Rem Oil:

• Great friction coefficient score
• Dries on the surface (less dirt and debris on your gun)
• Corrosion protection – passes salt spray test according to Govt. requirements
• Helps remove powder carbon and fouling
• Low viscosity – soaks into small areas and metal pores
• Cheap
• Long-lasting

Frequently Asked Questions

Rem Oil On Wood

Can you use Rem Oil on wood?

No, you can’t use Rem Oil on wood. Be careful around the stock of your gun. What happens is that the oil will soak in and ruin the wood where it meets metal.

Gun oil will ruin the wood. Not at once. But over the years it will soak in and make the wood soft and punky.

It usually happens where the stock meets the receiver. First, the wood gets a dark stain, and then it starts getting soft.

You have to be really careful to keep gun oil off your stock. It’s a common recommendation to store your firearm muzzle-down for that exact reason.

It keeps the gun oil from running into the stock.

Side note: Storing your firearms muzzle-down is a precaution. If your gun oil runs at all, then you’re using too much of it.

Rem Oil Aerosol vs. Wipes vs. Liquid

You can buy Rem Oil in the form of:

• • Rem Oil Aerosol spray
  • Liquid
  • Wipes

All 3 contain the same Teflon formula. The only difference is the form.

Rem Oil Spray

Aerosol spray is the most common.

It’s also the one that I used to spray the outside of my gun.

In my opinion, the spray is the easiest to use.

Rem Oil Liquid

The liquid is the cheapest of the three. Straightforward to use – just put some drops on your gun and you’re set.

Be careful not to put too much.

Rem Oil Wipes

Rem Oil Pop Up Wipes are more convenient for field use. If you’re out hunting and need something to clean your firearms, these are great to keep in your shooting bag.

They’re easy to use – just wipe down your firearm with it. Down the barrel or on the surface – wherever it’s needed.

One pack comes with a dozen wipes or so. One wipe can clean more than one firearm. A common trick is to cut them in half to save money.

Note that the wipes are more expensive than the liquid and the spray.

Which ones should you get? It’s really a matter of preference. If you ask me, I’d say that the spray is the most versatile of the three. Can’t go wrong with the spray.

The Final Word

Rem Oil is alright. It’s not too bad, not too good either.

It gets the job done, but it’s too thin for:

• Any serious firing (say AR-15)
• Performance in hotter temperatures

Most importantly –

Rem Oil is inferior to other gun oils on the market.

So why settle for less?

I’ve used Hoppe’s #9 for years. It’s tried and proven for gun cleaning, removing powder and small amounts of copper residue.

I prefer to use Break-Free CLP for gun cleaning. It’s cheap and a large can will last you a long time.

For heavy-duty stuff, Hoppe’s #9 has never failed me.

Now…

And only after the treatment, that’s when I wipe everything down with Rem Oil.

Let me know in the comments if I missed anything, or if anything needs to be added to the article.

Sincerely Yours, Bud

Chuck Norris doesn’t sleep. He waits. But for the regular Joe, being awakened from a deep sleep by a bump in the night can be a brown-pants-inducing experience. At least if you’re in your home, you’re familiar with your surroundings and should be able to navigate through it in complete darkness. You know the floor plan. You know all the avenues of approach. And, with a little prior planning and practice, you have an advantageous position where you can defend yourself and your loved ones from any attempted assault.

It’s one thing to be safe and secure in our homes. It’s quite another to maintain that same level of protection when we’re sleeping under the stars, far from civilization. Whether we’re enjoying all that Mother Nature has to offer on a relaxing camping trip or searching for sanctuary in the midst of a crisis evacuation, dusk brings on a whole new set of challenges when there are no walls and roof around you. How do we guard against those ominous sounds of creatures roaming the wilderness, looking for easy prey? How can we know the difference between man and animal?

Several factors should be considered when selecting an appropriate location to set up an overnight campsite, but that’s the topic for another article. For our purposes, we will assume we’ve selected a good location to make camp and have now progressed to the point of trying to establish some level of security.

One of the most challenging aspects of setting up perimeter defenses is restricting access to your base camp. The feeling of freedom and open air that campers love also works against us when it comes to protecting our campsite from unwanted wanderers or outright intruders. While selecting a good location for the campsite is a critical first step, it’s only one step in the larger defense-in-depth strategy.

The next step is to create an early warning system for when someone or something approaches our location. For those who don’t have a lot of wilderness time under their belt, you’ll be shocked to find how noisy it is at night, as all manner of creatures venture out under the cover of darkness for their evening meal. Depending on the location and time of year, the noise can really be quite loud. Anything moving around at night can potentially have plenty of background noise to mask its movement. Additionally, if one is bedded down in a wooded area, one will notice that noise tends to ricochet off the trees, making it difficult to localize and pinpoint the source. Do not fall into the false mindset that any intruder wandering into the campsite will make enough noise to wake you and give you time to determine their intentions. Creating an early warning system will ensure you have some measure of advanced notice to an intruder, be they two- or four-legged.

Early warning systems can be quite simple or very complex, but since most outdoorsmen take a minimalistic approach to travelling in nature, a simple security solution seems the best choice. Let’s look at three simple options for securing your campsite location.

The Old Tin-Can Trick

If you’re a fan of AMC’s The Walking Dead TV show, then you’ve seen this zombie security system quite often. It doesn’t get any simpler than a length of string, a few empty soup cans, and some small rocks.

Cut an entrance and an exit hole in the can just small enough to lace through the string. Partially cut the lid just wide enough to add a few rocks inside the can, then press the lid shut. Lace the string through several cans, leaving enough string on either end to tie off the ends to make a string barrier. Make the barrier long enough to cover the width of the access path you want to secure. Tie off the ends of the barrier with enough tension to pull the system relatively tight and level across the ground.

A height of two to three feet off the ground is a good all-around height to protect against moderately sized animals and low enough that under the cover of darkness a person wandering around may not notice the alarm and set it off.

Tip: If this type of setup appeals to you, consider getting a bag of marbles to use in the cans. They roll around much easier and seem to make a more audible alarm when banging around inside the cans. Additionally, a good length of strong fishing line will work better as a string than 550 paracord, and it weighs next to nothing.

The Modified Window/Door Alarm

While the marble-in-a-can method might work for you minimalists, the MacGyver fans are going to want something a little more “techie” for their campsite. Fortunately, your favorite local hardware store or online shop should have just the thing: small window/door security alarms. Modifying their use for campsite security is only limited by your imagination.

One simple option is to purchase a doorstop alarm. These alarms function by placing them directly behind a door. They are shaped similar to a doorstop with a ramped area that allows the door to slide over the ramp, effectively pressing the ramp down into the unit. When the ramp is depressed enough, a loud audible alarm is triggered.

A simple method for employing their use is to create a tripwire across an access path. Tie off one end of the fishing line to a tree or other secure object. String the wire across the path and tie the other end of the string off to a short length of stick. Find any object with some mass such as a small log or rock. Prop the object up with the stick, ensuring the line is taut across the path. Place the doorstop alarm under the object positioned in such a way that when the trip line is pulled, the stick is pulled out from under the object, allowing the object to fall on the doorstop, setting off the audible alarm.

Tip: Having four or five units in your pack gives you another simple but effective way to secure multiple access paths to your campsite. Piercing alarms going off simultaneously will be loud enough to scare away all but the most determined predators.

The CAPSS3 Option

For those who take their campsite security a little more seriously, look no further than Brite-Strike Technologies, which offers a host of handheld and weapon-mounted lights for combative applications. Brite-Strike has also introduced several products for the perimeter alarm market.

The All Purpose Adhesive Light Strips (APALS) are basically solar-powered light sticks that provide about 40 lumens of green or red light for more than 12 hours on a single charge. Smaller than your standard smartphone, these units are lightweight alternatives to chemical light sticks and last twice as long. To provide the same amount of illumination as the APALS for one year, a user would need to purchase 730 chem light sticks at an average cost of $1,200. One APALS retails for about $20. This is quite a no-brainer for those looking for some late-night campsite illumination options that don’t include packing around 15 or 20 chem lights or battery-powered lanterns.

Another innovative Brite-Strike product is the Camp Alert Perimeter Security System and Survival Signaling System (CAPSS3). The CAPSS3 is a lightweight and compact multifunction unit that offers both security and signaling capabilities for the outdoor enthusiast. The CAPSS3 unit comprises of a 135-decibel audible alarm unit that is triggered by a built-in metallic trip rod. Pulling the rod out of the recess in the unit triggers the alarm.

A small LED red dot is built into the side of the unit that acts as both a visual alarm and provides enough red light at night to read maps or other documents. A larger blue LED light is built into the unit along the length of the CAPSS3. It has the dual function of acting as a visual alarm and offering enough blue light to signal rescuers or to help mark one’s location for airborne search-and-rescue operations. A slide button is located on the face of the unit to allow the lights to be used for reading or signaling. Plus there’s a strobe function that can go off in conjunction with the audible alarm.

A small key ring is attached to the triggering rod to provide several tripwire attachment options, and each CAPSS3 unit includes two 10-meter-long clear monofilament lines for use as a nearly invisible tripwire. Additionally, the unit comes with a small section of heavy-duty 3M double-sided adhesive tape for attaching the CAPSS3 unit to any surface, such as a tree or a rock. A few small nylon zip ties can also be used to stick the unit onto odd-shaped surfaces. The CAPSS3 survival signaling system has an MSRP of $40 — but wait, there’s more! Each CAPSS3 system also includes two blue APALS at no extra cost.

Tip: The unit is slightly smaller than a deck of cards and weighs only a few ounces, so pack several units in your day pack or bug-out bag. They certainly won’t hurt your back after a long day of hiking yet provide multiple points of security.

Layered Defense

As you can see, each type of early warning system has pros and cons, but there are certainly more benefits than negatives. Plus, they’re all relatively affordable and easy to set up. If you’re a minimalistic prepper who needs to stay light and mobile, picking any one of these options can give you peace of mind if you’re forced away from your neighborhood and into unknown territory. For those who like to spend a lot of time with Mother Nature but take their personal security seriously (or perhaps their zombie defenses a little too seriously), you can always opt to layer your defenses by using a combination of these systems.

Because not all of us have Chuck Norris-like instincts, having some sort of reliable perimeter security system is the secret to getting a good night’s rest when sleeping under the stars. With the knowledge that you’ll be alerted if a predator — man or beast — enters your campsite, you’ll be ready for anything that goes bump in the night.