Nightcrawlers are common earthworms that are found around the world. Rather than overspend for live nightcrawlers at a fishing supply store, you figured you’d try catching your own. Where can you find nightcrawlers to use as fishing bait?

To catch nightcrawlers, seek out a crop field or a garden with tilled soil. You can even check your own backyard. In daylight or nighttime, dig a few inches deep into the soil and it should be wriggling with live worms. That will especially be the case after it rains.

This guide to catching nightcrawlers will be chock full of information that any aspiring angler should keep handy. You’ll learn where to find nightcrawlers, how to get them out of the ground in large quantities, and how to keep them alive so you can use them as live bait later. Keep reading!

Finding Nightcrawlers – Where to Look

The Lumbricus terrestris or common earthworm-which is also known as the nightcrawler-may have originated in Western Europe, but today, the worms are anywhere and everywhere across the United States.

That’s why anglers find the prospect of catching their own nightcrawlers so appealing, as they don’t have to expend a lot of effort to track down the worms. Here are some places you can go nightcrawler hunting today.

Your Backyard

Why not start with the most convenient place you could possibly find nightcrawlers, right in your backyard?

Nightcrawlers live in loam soil, which contains 20 percent clay, 40 percent silt, and 40 percent sand. Most soil in the US is categorized as loam, but only you know what kind of soil you have around your property.

If your soil is drier and sandier than 40 percent, then you probably won’t be able to find worms in your yard. Also-although it goes without saying-if your home features asphalt or rocks rather than a dedicated yard, then you’ll also have to venture elsewhere for your nightcrawler hunting.

Just don’t start digging in your neighbor’s yard, as they’re not going to appreciate that!

Crop Fields

If you can’t find nightcrawlers right outback, you can always seek local crop fields. A crop field is a large agricultural area that usually features tilled soil.

Another feature of crop fields is dead debris such as old leaves that nightcrawlers can conveniently feast on from the safety of the tilled soil.

However, if you don’t know who the crop field landowner is, you won’t want to hunt for nightcrawlers. You could get in possible legal trouble for entering someone else’s property and technically defacing it. Ask for permission first or find yet another place to dig for nightcrawlers.

Gardens

Gardens are packed full of soil, and if that soil is loamy, then you already know nightcrawlers will be there.

As you work in your garden, you’ll want to dig strategically to avoid upsetting plants, flowers, and trees that are still growing. Try to replace the soil after making holes so your plants don’t tip over due to stability issues.

Parks

You can always find plenty of greenery at your local park. You know what we’re about to say, you can’t dig at a park without permission from the landowner or a parks and rec association at the very least.

That said, you can look under fallen trees or beneath rocks for nightcrawlers since you’re not damaging the soil. You don’t need permission for that.

Almost Anywhere After the Rain

If all the above methods sound like too much time and trouble, you don’t necessarily have to do any of it. You can always check the forecast for the next rainfall. Nightcrawlers come out in droves after the rain, especially if it rains during the evening.

You won’t have to look hard for them, as they’ll be nearly anywhere and everywhere. Check the sidewalks, the surface of the lawn or soil, and rocks and trees. You’ll see plenty of worms.

Fun fact: if you live in an area where rains are rarer, you can always trick the nightcrawlers into thinking it’s raining if you wait until dusk and water your lawn.

We recommend bringing some sawdust when you’re catching worms after the rain. The already-slippery insects will become even harder to grasp thanks to the moisture of the precipitation. Using sawdust gives you a better grip on the nightcrawlers.

Plus, the rumor is that that the worms don’t like the texture of the sawdust so they’re more eager to pop out of their holes.

How to Get Nightcrawlers Out of the Ground

Once you’ve seen at least one nightcrawler wriggling about, you can assume that more are in the area. Here are some of the avenues you can use to begin catching nightcrawlers by the dozen.

A Shovel and Bucket

The most old-fashioned method is using a gardening shovel and a bucket. The shovel is for digging into the loamy soil.

As we established earlier, you shouldn’t have to make inches-deep holes to find nightcrawlers.

By removing the top layer of the soil, you should see the worms wriggling. Pull them from the ground (more on this in a later section, so definitely check it out!) and then store them in a plastic bucket.

If you don’t have a bucket, then any similar container should work. The key is to choose a container with tall sides so the worms can’t easily crawl up and over. The container should also ideally have a carrying handle for easy transport.

In the bucket, add a bit of soil and worm food such as dead leaves. This will keep your nightcrawler alive until you get home.

Water

We already talked about this, but water is a very reliable way to get nightcrawlers to reveal themselves, especially if you’re struggling to find any worms.

Why do nightcrawlers like water so much? As worms, nightcrawlers usually stay under the soil where it’s dark and moist because there’s little risk of them drying out. They won’t poke their heads out in bright, sunny weather for that very reason.

When it rains, the worms can finally emerge from underneath the soil while staying nice and moist. The rain also accelerates a nightcrawler’s speed so it can cross greater distances.

As we mentioned earlier, watering your lawn at dusk means that by nightfall, the earthworms should be plentiful.

Worm Grunting

You can also try worm grunting, which is known as worm charming and worm fiddling. This activity is common among anglers who want to catch many nightcrawlers at once. It’s even a competitive activity!

First, you have to create vibrations in the soil. This will bring the worms nearer the surface. Then it’s a matter of catching the nightcrawlers.

Car Battery

If you don’t mind that your nightcrawlers are dead, then you can always electrocute them to the surface using a car battery.

This method is a little harsher than the ones we’ve discussed to this point, and if you do it, you should ensure that the landscape is clear of other living creatures (that you can perceive, anyway), especially those on or in the soil.

You’ll need jumper cables, metal rods, and your car battery. Please wear rubber-soled shoes to ensure your safety as you go about catching nightcrawlers like this.

Take two of the metal rods and insert them several feet into the ground, no deeper than three feet. Then attach your jumper cables to your car battery with the rubber grippers. Connect the other end of the jumper cable grippers to the affixed metal rods.

As electricity generates, the nightcrawlers will immediately spring to the surface to get away from the volts. You can catch them easily from there.

More Tips for Catching Nightcrawlers

Want even more tips to make you a nightcrawler-catching master? No problem! Here’s what we recommend.

Bring a Flashlight for Nighttime Catches

Nighttime is prime time for catching nightcrawlers. After all, these common earthworms are known as nightcrawlers for a reason. At night, when it’s usually cool, the worms will emerge to the surface of the soil. Nighttime is also a period when fewer predators abound.

You’ll need a flashlight to spot nightcrawlers on the ground. You can have a friend or partner carry the flashlight or you can bring it yourself. You can even use your smartphone flashlight, although not if you’re planning to hunt for a while. That’s a great way to drain your phone’s battery!

Headlamps Are Your Friend

Outside of flashlights, it’s a good idea to bring a headlamp as well. After all, once you find the nightcrawlers, how are you supposed to dig them up? You can’t hold the flashlight in one hand and dig with the other hand. It just doesn’t work.

Use Red Light

Nightcrawlers are adept at sensing the light. As soon as you shine a bright spotlight on a nightcrawler-such as from a flashlight or a smartphone-the worm will retreat underground.

To a nightcrawler, light = sunlight, and sunlight = danger, either from predators, drying out, or both.

Nightcrawlers are smart too, in that the one that senses the light isn’t the only worm to hide. Any other worms in the vicinity that might have been poking their heads up will also duck back down. You lose out on a lot of potential catches.

Using red light is the best way to mask the brightness of your light while still illuminating the yard. You can either buy a flashlight or headlamp with a red light or you can tape a piece of red cellophane over the light. You can even put cellophane on a smartphone flashlight.

Tread Lightly

Besides being able to sense light, nightcrawlers can detect vibrations caused by sound as well. If you usually have a heavy gait, it’s worth practicing quieter walking if you hope to be successful in your nightcrawler hunts.

We’re not saying you have to tip-toe here, but you do want to be as light on your feet as possible. If you’re not, the worms will sense you before you ever get close and you won’t see any.

The only exception to this is when it’s raining. It could be that the worms sense the vibrations of the rain falling to such an extent that your footfalls don’t stand out among that sound, but worms don’t react to heavy footsteps as much in the rain.

Wear Light Shoes

Even if you’re stealthy like a ninja, it’s still not a bad idea to wear light shoes when you’re digging for nightcrawlers. Ditch the combat boots, Timberlands, and heavy shoes like them. Wear house slippers (that you don’t mind getting muddy) or shoes with very light soles.

Skip the flip-flops though, as the flopping sound is not going to help you catch nightcrawlers.

Know When and How to Grab

As we said we would, we want to discuss is how to pull nightcrawlers out of the ground. To do so, you’ll have to get good at distinguishing the worm’s head from its rear. The head is what usually emerges first from the soil, which is a helpful hint.

The center of a nightcrawler’s body features a series of rings that allow the worm to have traction in the dirt. Then the other side of the worm is its tail.

When you see the nightcrawler emerge from its hole, grasp your hand around it and begin to pull up horizontally. Vertical pulling could cause you to tear the worm, and then it won’t be very good as fishing bait.

The body will be in the soil at an angle, so pull the nightcrawler at whatever angle it’s situated itself.

Remember to take your time when pulling and don’t use excessive force. Otherwise, you’ll kill the nightcrawler!

How to Keep Nightcrawlers Alive to Use as Live Fishing Bait

We’re assuming that you’re interested in keeping your nightcrawlers alive so you can eventually use them as fishing bait, right? Here’s how it’s done.

Move Your Nightcrawlers to a New Container

The container that will be the nightcrawler’s more permanent home should be full of loamy soil as well as worm food.

Dead debris like vegetables and grass as well as old coffee grounds (that are still moist) are recommended. The coffee grounds are easily ingestible for worms, so don’t be surprised if this is what they start with!

Refrigerate the Worms

Yes, that’s right, we’re telling you to put the nightcrawlers in the refrigerator. We know this sounds weird, but it’s part of maintaining the worms’ optimal temperature, which is between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

Keep the Soil Moist

Time will cause the soil to dry out, so every couple of days, you might have to add more water. You should only spill in a few drops at a time.

Add More Food

The nightcrawlers will eventually eat everything you give them, even if that takes a bit. While you’re checking the soil moisture levels, consider adding more food like coffee grounds or old leaves as well.

However, if there’s still food in the container, don’t feed the nightcrawlers yet. You could accidentally feed them too much, and then they’ll die.

If you continue doing the above, you could keep your nightcrawlers alive for weeks. Plan that fishing trip soon!

Final Thoughts

Nightcrawlers are a species of common earthworm that are prevalent throughout the country. You need only look in your backyard for nightcrawlers, although they’re common in crop fields, parks, and gardens as well.

Rainfall remains your most natural way of bringing out the greatest number of nightcrawlers, but you could always shock them out of the ground using a car battery and some metal poles if you don’t mind that your worms are dead.

Now that you know how to find, catch, handle, and keep nightcrawlers, you should never have to shop for live worm bait again!

This year marks a major milestone here at Petersen’s BOWHUNTING — our 10th Anniversary Broadhead Test. Oh, what a journey it has been. When I consider the time (weeks) and energy it takes to do our annual broadhead test, it amazes me we ever made it to year two!

Back when we first began in 2013, we unknowingly set ourselves up for a testing marathon by tackling 25 broadheads — 13 fixed-blade models and 12 mechanicals — at once. None of our tests were proven, forcing to us to run back and forth to the hardware store for additional supplies as we adjusted on the fly. We were also forced to acquire additional test heads from the stock inventory at Lancaster Archery Supply, because we were running out as we forged ahead like madmen through an extended period of trial and error.

They say experience is a great teacher, and that’s certainly true in our case. I’m pleased to report we’ve become not just older but wiser over the past decade, alternating our annual test between fixed-blade heads and mechanicals to keep our workload manageable and give manufacturers additional time to release new models in each category.

But while we’ve changed some things and have continually refined our testing procedures, one big thing that has not changed — and never will — is our commitment to doing whatever it takes to make this the most consistent, credible and unbiased broadhead test available to bowhunters anywhere. The cornerstone of our testing is a desire to create a level playing field for all, and over the years we’ve eliminated some tests that did not meet this high standard and modified others to ensure they do.

Perhaps the biggest single testing improvement we’ve made over the years came in 2014, when we upgraded the shooting platform to our custom-built, one-of-a-kind X-Ring Machine that is far superior to any commercially available shooting machine. Weighing more than 200 pounds, the X-Ring Machine offers rock-solid stability along with micro-adjustable windage and elevation and a laser sighting system! Driven by a servo motor, the draw sled that pulls the bowstring back rides on linear slides and is controlled by draw-position sensors. The X-Ring Machine is also controlled via proprietary software that takes precise measurements during the draw cycle and automatically calculates data for things such as kinetic energy and dynamic efficiency. Another milestone that came in 2014 was the decision to outsource broadhead sharpness testing to CATRA (Cutlery & Allied Trades Research Association) in the United Kingdom. That’s right; we ship broadhead blades all the way across the Atlantic Ocean to give you the most accurate and reliable sharpness comparison available!

During our 10-year broadhead testing journey, we have been invited to use some great facilities near our Pennsylvania headquarters, including ranges at Black Eagle Bowmen, Lancaster Archery Supply, Weaver’s Archery and Drop Tine Archery. As for the testing itself, we’re pleased to report that more than 40 manufacturers have submitted broadheads for evaluation, not to mention additional manufacturers such as Mathews, PSE, Bowtech, Last Chance Archery and Rinehart Targets have donated bows, targets and other equipment to assist in our testing.

In summary, the past decade has allowed us to build a significant depth of experience and expertise in broadhead testing and demonstrated that we’ll go to great lengths to bring you only the most technically sound and relevant data possible — no bias and no BS! This year, we dive deep into 14 of the hottest fixed-blade broadhead options with tests that measure penetration, durability, blade sharpness, flight precision and more. It’s our hope that you enjoy reading the results as much as we enjoy bringing them to you.

Annihilator 100 XL

Annihilator is a relative newcomer to the archery world; however, they have turned plenty of heads and built a solid following in a short time. The nearly indestructible 100 XL is made from a single piece of 4140 alloy steel and hardened to Rockwell RC 52. Edges are beveled at 30 degrees to enhance edge retention and durability and are easily re-sharpened on a flat stone. The unique, scooped-out shape is without cutouts or vents and designed to quietly fly like a fieldpoint at long range and cause maximum damage through wound channels that won’t close up and induce pressure changes inside the animal’s body. The 100 XL has proven effective with all bow styles and a wide range of arrow/bolt speeds. Sporting a 1.0625-inch cutting diameter, these heads are made in the USA and guaranteed to weigh within ±.2-grain of one another.

• $62.99 per 3 | annihilatorbroadheads.com
• Top Test Finishes: 1st in Double Combo Penetration and Hemorrhage

Cobra Barbarian

Cobra jumps into the broadhead market with the Barbarian line that includes both fixed and mechanical heads. Cobra’s FXT (Fixed Crossbow Titanium) heads were originally intended exclusively for the crossbow market, but the company wanted compound users to have the opportunity to shoot them as well. So, Cobra came up with a two-collar system. The straight collars match up with bolt diameters, and the tapered collars are more in line with standard arrow diameters. Cobra’s solid, one-piece ferrule is made of titanium to take advantage of its high strength-to-weight ratio and overall durability. Blades are replaceable and made of 420 stainless steel that is .033-inch thick. The Barbarian’s cutting diameter is a generous 1.25 inches and its trocar tip is designed to take on the harshest of shots. Heads are spin-tested at the factory.

• $54.99 per 3 | cobraarchery.com
• Top Test Finish: 4th in Total Cutting Potential

Firenock Dagger

Firenock is known for engineering products and components that work well together. In fact, their Traumahawk broadhead was designed specifically to work with the company’s airfoil-based Aerovane; however, it required too much speed and power for some applications. Enter the Dagger, which has fewer use restrictions for a wider range of applications. This head is made from 420 stainless steel and uses compound single bevels providing rotation to, and through, the animal. The rotation inside the animal is advertised to cause cavitation resulting in faster death. Metal Injection Molding (MIM) during the manufacturing process makes the Dagger even more effective. The two-blade head has a 1.01-inch cutting diameter and a cut-on-contact design for maximum penetration.

• $69.95 per 3 | firenock.com
• Top Test Finish: 10th in Hemorrhage

G5 Striker X

G5 continues to bring top-notch heads to market with the new Striker X fixed-blade broadhead. The Striker X features four replaceable Lutz blades that have a reputation for being super sharp and a track record to back it up. The four blades, each measuring approximately 1 inch long, create a 1.25-inch cutting diameter. G5 broadheads are spin-tested at the factory and advertised to have improved flight characteristics versus the competition. The all-steel Striker X is also available in a crossbow model and comes in your choice of 100 or 125 grains. A BMP practice head and blade-replacement kits are also available.

• $46.95 per 3 | g5outdoors.com
• Top Test Finishes: 1st in Total Cutting Potential, 4th in Hemorrhage and 5th in Sharpness

Grim Reaper Micro Hades

Grim Reaper, known for creating devastating broadheads, designed the new, 3-blade Micro Hades to maintain excellent flight performance at any speed produced by today’s compounds and crossbows. The Pro Tip is hand sharpened and built to bust through bone. With its 100-percent stainless steel construction, the Micro Hades is made to withstand anything you can throw at it. The .035-inch thick, 440 stainless blades, which reach to a 1.0625-inch cutting diameter, are anchored to the ferrule with Grim Reaper’s four-point blade locking system. Made in Provo, Utah, the Micro Hades is all about inspiring confidence through durability, lethality and overall performance.

• $39.99 per 3 | grimreaperbroadheads.com
• Top Test Finishes: 2nd in Sharpness and 3rd in Double Combo Penetration

Innerloc American Eagle

Innerloc’s Patriot Package — including three American Eagle broadheads, six eagle-inspired, patriotic arrow wraps and a Deadly by Design Innerloc Country can cooler — was put together as a tribute to all American patriots. The American Eagle broadhead features a red, white and blue anodized aluminum ferrule that sports an eagle stamp at its base along with eagle-shaped blade cutouts. The 3-blade head weighs 100 grains and produces a 1-inch cutting diameter. Innerloc’s proven Center Locking System uses matching bevels on the ferrule and stud to create a self-aligning, clamping action for the .027-inch thick, L-shape blades with bases that match the inner-diameter of the ferrule. The company’s Endur-Edge is built through specialized manufacturing and tempering processes to create a durable edge that will hold its form and sharpness.

• $35.99 per 3 | innerloc.com
• Top Test Finishes: 3rd in Triple Combo Penetration and 4th in Sharpness

Muzzy Merc

Muzzy, one of the most trusted broadhead manufacturers, builds its new, 3-blade Merc with a one-piece, solid stainless steel ferrule to ensure toughness. The ferrule shape and venting, along with the Hybrid Cut-on-Contact Tip, promote quiet flight and increased penetration. The .030-inch thick blades transition smoothly into the correlating edges of the ferrule for a continuous cut from tip to the blades’ base. Blades are generously vented, have a 1.0625-inch cutting diameter and are locked in place by an aluminum blade-retention collar. Muzzy says the Merc’s unique geometry and venting deliver stable flight and extreme bloodletting.

• $44.95 per 3 | feradyne.com/muzzy-broadheads
• Top Test Finishes: 1st in Sharpness and 2nd in Triple Combo Penetration

NAP Endgame

NAP machines its 2-blade Endgame from a single piece of Grade 5 titanium to achieve precision while taking advantage of the material’s impressive strength-to-weight ratio, tensile strength, ruggedness and corrosion resistance. The oversized Bone Breaker Tip, machined directly into the titanium structure, is designed to cut on contact for greater penetration. An X-Lock blade-retention system secures the .031-inch, replaceable, stainless steel blades to the ferrule. Cutting diameter is 1.1875 inches. All heads are spin tested at the factory to ensure optimum performance, and a set of replacement blades and practice blades are included.

• $54.99 per 3 | newarchery.com
• Top Test Finish: 3rd in Hemorrhage, 4th in Double Combo Penetration and 5th in Triple Combo Penetration

QAD Exodus

QAD broadheads are unique in their design, as they employ Blade Over Shaft technology that anchors the blades to a very short ferrule while allowing the length of the blades to reach back over the shaft. The ferrule length and hardened stainless steel tip equal that of a fieldpoint, which reportedly improves flight characteristics and accuracy. This compactness also increases penetration and pass-throughs. The three, .040-inch thick stainless steel blades are set at a steep angle to reach a 1.25-inch cutting diameter in a short distance. Blades are replaceable; the head comes in 85, 100 and 125 grains in swept-back and full-blade models.

• $42.99 per 3 | qadinc.com
• Top Test Finish: 1st in Triple Combo Penetration, 2nd in Double Combo Penetration, 5th in Total Cutting Potential

Slick Trick SS3

Slick Trick’s new-for-2022 SS3 is a single-piece head machined from a solid block of 416 stainless steel and finished with a black-oxide coating. There are no blade vents or separate pieces — this is a solid unit from top to bottom, which is advertised to reduce flight noise, increase strength and maximize durability. The three, built-in blades produce a cutting diameter of 1.125 inches. A proven mix of overall geometry and weight distribution are said to create laser-like flight from any bow. Slick Trick designed the blades to stabilize the head quickly and leave a slug-like hole in whatever you put it through. The chisel tip is built to be aerodynamic and begin cutting on impact for increased penetration.

• $47.99 per 3 | slicktrickbroadheads.com
• Top Test Finish: 5th in Double Combo Penetration

Swhacker Levi Morgan #262

Known for its popular mechanical heads, Swhacker also has a substantial fixed-blade offering. Swhacker founder Rick Forrest teamed up with one of the planet’s best archers in multi-time world champion Levi Morgan to design the new #262 fixed-blade broadhead. The 3-blade, 100-grain head features a black-anodized, aircraft-grade aluminum ferrule and a hardened, high-carbon steel chisel tip that is advertised as cut-on-contact. Blades are made of stainless steel, have a .032-inch thickness and produce a 1.25-inch cutting diameter. The swept back, independent blades rotate when pulled back so they are not considered barbed.

• $54.95 per 3 | swhacker.com
• Top Test Finish: 3rd in Total Cutting Potential and 5th in Hemorrhage

SYKD Hunt Endurance

SYKD Hunt enters the fixed-blade broadhead arena with the 3-blade Endurance, featuring a 1-inch cutting diameter. SYKD says the optimized design allows the Endurance to be used with both compounds and crossbows. Blades are made of stainless steel, measure approximately .028-inch thick and are individually hand-sharpened. A front-end, blade-locking system is designed to secure the blades during flight and penetration. The aggressive chisel tip is built to bust through bone, causing maximum damage and increasing penetration.

• $32.99 per 3 | sykdhunt.com
• Top Test Finish: 6th in Triple Combo Penetration

Tooth of the Arrow S-Series XL

The 4-blade S-Series XL has a 1.1875-inch cutting diameter, and it’s machined from one piece of high-carbon steel, heat-treated for strength and durability.

Blade edges are sharpened at 45-degree angles and designed to create large entry and exit wounds. The compact ferrule puts 70 percent of the head’s weight in line with the arrow shaft and, when coupled with the low-profile design, enhances aerodynamics and optimizes flight characteristics. A chisel point offers maximum impact on bone, and black-oxide plating protects the head, which comes in 100, 125 and 175 grains.

• $49.99 per 3 | toothofthearrowbroadheads.com
• Top Test Finish: 2nd in Total Cutting Potential and Hemorrhage

Wasp Mortem

Wasp demonstrates its dedication to producing some of the most durable heads available by outfitting the new Mortem with a one-piece, stainless steel ferrule. Sitting atop the ferrule is a solid, one-piece stainless steel trocar tip that is hardened for strength and durability, precision-machined and perfectly aligned with the blades to increase penetration from any shot angle. Three stainless steel blades, sharpened to a surgical edge, reach out to produce a 1.125-inch cutting diameter. Blades are easily replaced.

• $33.99 per 3 | wasparchery.com
• Top Test Finish: 3rd in Sharpness and 4th in Triple Combo Penetration

Test Philosophy

Our goal is to objectively test a series of characteristics critical to the successful completion of a broadhead’s mission — killing game quickly. Tests are conducted with materials and processes that result in accurate, unbiased results. Since conducting our first broadhead test in 2013, we have built on our experiences year after year and continuously made enhancements and modifications where they will benefit the test and, in turn, the reader. We use technology such as the Petersen’s BOWHUNTING X-Ring Machine that is advanced far beyond any commercially available shooting machine and an IDT Motion Xtra N4 high-speed video camera. Where we do not have the resources to conduct our own testing, we source it from outside. For example, we ship broadhead blades all the way across the Atlantic to have sharpness measured by the Cutlery & Allied Trades Research Association in Sheffield, England.

Test Setup

A Mathews V3X was set up with a 29-inch draw length and 65-pound draw weight. It was equipped with a NAP QuikTune 3000 arrow rest and D-loop. Three dozen factory fletched Easton FMJ 340 arrows were cut to 29.375 inches long and weighed at 376 grains (not including point weight). Completed arrows weighed 476 grains (with 100-grain broadhead or fieldpoint) and flew at 272 fps as measured by our chronograph. The Mathews V3X bow was mounted to the X-Ring Machine and tuned with the Easton arrows to achieve a perfect bullet hole at various distances. This setup was used for all test shots except the Hemorrhage Test, which was conducted as noted below.

Physical Dimensions: A Mitutoyo 8-inch dial caliper was used to determine the size of each broadhead’s cutting diameter, blade length, blade thickness and the length of the head beyond the end of the arrow. Cutting diameter on 3-blade heads was calculated by laying two of the blade tips along one jaw of the caliper and the third on the opposite jaw. That number was divided by 1.5 and then multiplied by 2. Example: Greatest distance is .75/1.5 = .5 x 2 = 1-inch cutting diameter.

An Easton Digital Grain Scale, calibrated according to manufacturer instructions, was used to determine the mass weight of each individual broadhead. Three separate heads were measured and averaged for a final result.

Total Cutting Potential: The ability of a head to cut, and the amount of cutting that takes place, is a factor of sharpness, cutting diameter and the number of blades. With this in mind, we calculate the Total Cutting Potential (TCP) of a head by multiplying the radius by the number of blades. We consider it “potential,” because a lost blade in bone or otherwise means you have that much less to do the cutting once the head breaks through into the body cavity. Blade angle is not considered in determining TCP, since angle does not change the amount of flesh that is cut as long as penetration is equal.

Here are two examples of TCP calculations: A 2-blade, 2-inch cutting diameter head has a radius of 1 inch. To get the TCP, you multiply the radius by the number of blades, which gives you a TCP of 2 inches. Now, consider a 3-blade head with a cutting diameter of 1.375 inches. The radius is .6875-inch, so you would multiply .6875 by the number of blades, 3. Your TCP would be 2.0625 inches, which means you will cut slightly more than the 2-blade head with a 2-inch cutting diameter.

Hemorrhage Test: Behind the scenes, this is known as the “blood bag” test! It was designed to take a relative measure of how much bleeding each broadhead will cause. For each head, a thick plastic bag containing exactly two gallons of red (for effect) colored water was sealed, suspended from a fixture and marked with a reference line. Using a Wicked Ridge Raider 400 crossbow, each head was fired low through the bag. We used frame-by-frame time stamps from a Nikon D5600 camera to measure elapsed time from impact until the water level matched the reference line.

Sharpness: Three blades (one blade from three different heads) from each broadhead model were sent to CATRA in the United Kingdom to measure blade sharpness with the association’s Razor Edge Sharpness Test (REST) machine. The machine measures the force required, in Newtons, to cut through a rubber test medium. The less force required to cut the rubber, the sharper the blade. As a reference point, a shaving razor blade will typically result in a reading near .3 Newtons. Additional information about the REST machine can be found online at catra.org.

Hard-Impact Test: The hard-impact test is designed to simulate the performance of a head after it encounters and passes through a hard material such as bone. We all want to know our broadhead will still do its job and keep cutting even after hitting a rib or shoulder. This test was performed at 20 yards, using .03-inch thick sheet metal as the impact material. General results can be found in the accompanying chart, with high-speed video footage on our YouTube channel showing each head’s performance in great detail.

Penetration Tests: This year, we eliminated one of the penetration tests we’ve been doing for years and replaced it with a new test we started last year. The pure foam test was scrapped, as it did not correlate to any situation one would encounter in the field; we hunt animals with a hide or other tough outer layer, such as thick feathers on a turkey. So, as we started last year, we added rubber-backed carpet on the outside of the foam. This “Double Combo” penetration test is designed to simulate a hide/body hit during which no bone is encountered. Our second penetration test, or “Triple Combo” test, consisted of rubber-backed carpet, .03-inch thick sheet metal and foam, to simulate a hide/body hit during which bone is encountered. Targets for our penetration tests are made by stacking the carpet, metal and foam plates and wrapping them with stretch-wrap film.

Over the years, many people have asked why we don’t use actual animal carcasses, or even a side of beef, to conduct our penetration tests. Our answer is simply that using such methods would not provide consistent, repeatable results from shot to shot. Instead, we use manmade materials to simulate basic properties (soft, hard, firm) while maintaining the consistency required for valid test results.

To conduct our penetration tests, three brand new heads from each broadhead model were fired into both types of block. The section of arrow protruding from the target was then measured for each shot, with a final average being calculated. That number was then reconciled with the arrow length for each test broadhead (different models have different overall lengths) to determine the actual depth of penetration.

Crash Test: The Crash Test is a violent test of a broadhead’s overall integrity. It was conducted by shooting each model into a fieldstone at 20 yards and evaluating the overall condition of the head after impact. Not surprisingly, most heads in the test sustained considerable damage as a result of impact. General results can be seen in the accompanying chart, with high-speed video footage on our YouTube channel showing each head’s performance in great detail.

Fieldpoint Comparison Test: A fieldpoint was shot from the X-Ring Machine at 25 yards to give us a reference point for measuring the broadhead impact locations on the target. We performed the test and found our groups relative to the fieldpoint were not in line with previous years. So, we tweaked the arrow rest and assured all test arrows were straight, properly aligned and spun true on a Last Chance Archery Revolution Arrow Tuner (engineered by Travis “T-Bone” Turner). We then repeated the test with much better results!

Three shots were fired with each test model, and the impact points were averaged to plot the data in the accompanying chart. As has been common in recent years, all the test heads flew well, with none varying more .7-inch in windage or elevation from the fieldpoint, and we had to enlarge the scale of the results chart just so you can identify each head’s point of impact. This is a testament to how much broadhead manufacturing has improved over the past 20 years and offers proof that — with a properly tuned bow and arrows — you can get your hunting broadheads to fly quite similarly to your practice points.

The afternoon sun was settling westward behind a bank of disconsolate grey clouds, as I worked my way across a huge flat-topped mesa just north of Texas’s famous Big Bend country. A huge javelina boar showed briefly through the short-brush. Readying my handmade Osage self bow and stone-pointed arrow, I moved to intercept him. The hunting gods must have been pleased, for the big boar continued his swaggering path directly toward me. My bow was raised, my fingers tight on the string as he crossed behind some brush. Seven short yards were all that separated us when he emerged, broadside, beady-eye gleaming and razor-sharp cutters lifting his lip in a perpetual good-natured snarl. I dropped the string and watched my stone point bury behind his shoulder. It was the second-largest archery-killed Javelina in Texas that year.

Life and Times of JavelinaJavelina (pronounced Hav-uh-leen-uh), or Collared Peccary, reside stateside only in Texas, southern New Mexico and Arizona. Hunting opportunities vary from state to state. Arizona offers the best access to good public-land hunting, but javelina numbers are not terribly high, and in many areas, tags must be applied for and drawn lottery style. Texas is in many ways the reverse—in certain areas of Texas, javelina numbers are super high, and it’s possible to see half a dozen troops in a winter morning’s hunt, with 30 to 40 javelina per band. Most of Texas is private land, however, so you’ll need permission from the owner to hunt just about anywhere, and good properties may require an access fee. Licenses are easy to obtain though, and every hunter is allowed two javies each year with the purchase of a regular Texas hunting license. I’m not familiar with hunting javelina in New Mexico, so I am not in a position to offer an opinion on hunting quality and opportunity there.

Stink Pigs—so called because of the strong musk emitted by a scent gland located atop their hindquarters—are really fun to hunt, especially with a bow. Their sense of smell is superb but their eyesight is pretty bad, so as long as you keep the wind in your face it’s relatively easy to close within 10 or 15 yards of a band of pigs. Their hearing is pretty good, too, but most of the time they make so much noise shuffling about, grubbing for food, smacking their lips and quarreling with each other they rarely hear you. Only pay real attention to being quiet if you’re stalking a lone pig or a herd bedded down for a siesta. If the herd is quiet, you’d better be, too.

Peccary TeethPeccary possess long cutters (or teeth) that protrude fang-like from both top and bottom jaws. These continuously rub against each other, creating razor-sharp edges. Javelinas are tough, courageous critters, very dangerous to dogs and even humans at times, due to their tendency to attack anything that bothers one of their own. When following a wounded javie be careful, and approach any shadowed thicket with caution. If your pig is still alive, you’ll likely hear it popping its teeth at you—a loud, rather intimidating sound—before you see it. Best to put another round (or arrow) into the pig at your first opportunity in this scenario.

Dogs can experience especial problems in confrontations of the javelina variety. A big courageous dog will likely be killed, because he’ll put up a fight and be cut to pieces by the herd. A little dog with more bluster than bite can get its owner in real trouble by picking a fight with a pig, then running to hide behind his owner’s legs when the pig’s buddies all show up with blood in their eyes.

In Texas, Javelinas are scored exactly like a bear or lion, by measuring the length and width of the cleaned skull, then adding the two measurements together for a final score. The biggest, oldest boars usually have worn or broken their cutters down short, so often the best skull mounts come from middle-aged boars that still possess long, impressive fangs. Live weight usually ranges from 35 to 55 pounds. The two biggest Texas boars I’ve weighed pushed the scales to 65 pounds. Females are usually more petite than boars, but still sport long cutters and make admirable shoulder, full-body or skull mounts. Indeed, unless you’re very experienced, it can be quite hard to tell male and female apart while hunting.

Hunting JavelinasFinding javelinas is sometimes the toughest element to hunting them. If you’re new to an area, I suggest spending a day scouting for sign left by the little pigs before getting serious about hunting them. Look in dry washes and arroyos for little blunt tracks—somewhat reminiscent of deer tracks, just much shorter. Keep an eye out for chewed-up prickly pear cactus; javelina love to eat the pads, leaving bite-shaped chunks missing. The bite edges will be ragged and stringy, since stink pigs don’t have cleanly meshing front teeth. Look for water sources with sign around them, for though javelina don’t need to drink much when feeding on prickly pear, they prefer to stay hydrated, and will frequent seeps, water troughs and such. In hot or buggy weather you might find evidence of wallowing activity in muddy areas. Also, if there are corn feeders around (as are common in Texas), keep an eye on them. Stink pigs love corn, and will drive deer away and take possession of the area around a feeder.

Once you’ve located an area with plentiful Javelina sign, ready your bow or shoulder your rifle. It’s not super important to be hunting at the crack of dawn; javelinas are not very early risers, and are more likely to be moving once sunshine warms the area a little. Hunt your area from downwind so the pigs don’t scent you, and keep your own sniffer busy—many times I’ve smelled a herd of stink pigs before I’ve seen them. Keep your ears open, too; occasionally javelinas bark or huff at each other, the sound giving you another way to locate them.

If there is a mesa, ridge, point or other vantage overlooking the area where you found javie sign, it’s a good tactic to sit atop the point and let your binocular do the walking. Be patient and spend plenty of time glassing; an entire herd of javelinas can be hidden in a tiny draw for a couple hours, and you’ll think there’s not a pig for miles. Then suddenly, they stroll out into the sunshine and it seems as though there are pigs everywhere. While sitting and glassing, you can listen, too—you might locate javelina by their sounds.

Once you’ve located a sounder of peccary, it’s time to make your move. Make sure you keep the wind in your favor and approach cautiously, but not too cautiously. Javies stay on the move most of the time, and if you take too long, they may have vacated the area before you arrive. Once you’re within 40 yards, you can slow down and stalk with care. If a pig spots you, just freeze and wait till it relaxes. Then resume your stalk.

Bullets and Broadheads for PeccaryYour regular deer-hunting rifle or handgun will work fine on javelina, just make sure you use a tough bullet. Stink pigs are dense and hard-boned, as you’ll see from the story below.

I almost simply wrote the same advice regarding archery gear—that the same gear you use on deer will work on pigs—but in good conscience, I can’t. From personal experience guiding peccary hunters in Texas, I believe they are tougher to kill than deer. In my opinion you need a really tough, cut-on-contact, one piece broadhead like a Woodsman, Montec G5 or similar. Here’s a true story to illustrate my point:

A friend who guided for me had never killed a peccary before, so we went out one evening to try to get him a pig. He was carrying an archery setup with which he had recently killed a huge bull elk, shooting expandable points. I told my buddy I had previously seen expandable heads fail on javelina, and suggested he use something else, but he was confident in his setup so we went hunting. His bow pulled 70 pounds of draw weight at 28 inches.

We soon located a troop of stink pigs, with one big boar sniffing around the females. The boar crossed in front of us, stopping broadside at 32 yards. My friend is a crack shot, but javies are pretty small and his arrow impacted about an inch and a half forward of the crease, with a sound like a baseball bat hitting a light pole. We tracked the boar over 450 yards up the side of a mesa before leaving him to live another day. The arrow had penetrated only an inch and a half beyond the broadhead ferrule, stopped cold by the peccaries scapula. It is my belief that a solid, cut-on-contact broadhead would have penetrated that scapula and double-lunged the pig. The moral of the story, of course, is that javelinas are small and very tough. Choose your gear and shots accordingly.

Shot PlacementWith a firearm and a tough bullet, you can down a peccary from any angle, but with archery gear the ideal shot angle is broadside, or slightly quartering away. The vitals are small, so take your time and make a careful shot. One helpful tip to remember is that javelinas can’t flex their neck very far to the side, so anytime they hear or see anything they must turn toward the source to investigate. This usually leaves you with a quartered-to angle. That’s fine with a firearm, but don’t risk it with a bow; wait for a better opportunity. Due to the same characteristic, it’s not helpful to make a sound to try to stop a moving pig for a shot—the animal will invariably stop quartered-on.

Following UpWell-hit javies usually (though not always) tip over quickly. The same rules you’d use when hunting deer apply to any blood trail, except for one: if you believe that the pig is wounded and potentially alive, consider him dangerous. Exercise caution, and if possible, carry a hard-hitting firearm to use if he comes at you. A mad peccary is not likely to kill you, but he sure might leave some cool scars on your legs. Just be careful.

Processing MeatThere are two very important elements to keeping peccary meat tasty: keep it clean and cool it quick. When you approach your first stink pig, you’ll wonder how anyone could possibly eat something that smells like that. Get the skin off and away, exercising real care to keep the scent gland with its oily musk off the meat, and the carcass will look and smell fresh and tasty. Get the meat on ice in a cooler and you’re all set. Grind into breakfast sausage or chorizo, or slow-cook for a pulled-pork barbeque. Bon Appétit!

Venison brisket can be one of the toughest cuts on the deer. Learn how to prepare it so that it comes out tender and juicy every time!

Smoking, like many other cooking technique, gets a bad rap. It is really a very forgiving way to cook. People tend to overcomplicate the process though. Keep reading and we’ll simplify it a bit.

You will just need some planning ahead of time to make sure it comes out perfect.

What is brisket?

The brisket of the deer is found on the chest (breast), above the front legs. It is a thinner cut of meat and has more connective tissue due to the fact that this muscle works harder than other muscles in the animal.

Most of the time it ends up in the grind pile for a lot of people. We have been saving them for years. When they are slow cooked. They are absolutely delicious. Tender and very flavorful.

Smoking low and slow is a perfect way to tenderize this meat. There is very little hands on time because the smoker does all of the work. The only thing you have to possess is patience. Don’t try to rush the process.

Beef or pork have fatty briskets and are a lot larger, so they take eons to smoke. Deer briskets will smoke in a fraction of that time. Because the deer is so lean, it doesn’t require the Texas crutch that beef requires, so it’s much easier.

Trimming the venison brisket

The first key step is to trim the brisket of all silver skin and any large pockets of fat that you can see.

Season the brisket

Next make a delicious rub so that the brisket will take on a great flavor and texture. Make sure you cover it with enough rub.

Ingredients you need

• brown sugar – dark brown or light brown sugar will both work
• granulated garlic – you can substitute garlic powder but granulated has a better flavor.
• onion powder –
• cumin
• coriander
• cayenne pepper – or chili powder, chipotle powder is good too.
• Dutch cocoa powder – optional but this adds a fun mole negro type flavor.Pin
• venison brisket

How to make it

In a small bowl, mix ingredients for the rub. Generously season roast with kosher salt or sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper. Then season it generously with the rub.

If the rub doesn’t seem to be sticking well, drizzle a bit of olive oil on top and then rub it into the meat with your hands.

Cut a large piece of plastic wrap and tightly wrap roast. Place it on a rimmed baking sheet and put it in the refrigerator for 8-24 hours to marinate.

The next day, remove it from the fridge and allow it to come to room temperature. Set up and start your smoker heating to 225°F. Don’t go over this or it will cook too quickly. You could go down to 200°F but realize that it will take a bit longer.

Place the piece of meat on a rack in your smoker. spritz with a mixture of 1 part apple cider vinegar and 2 parts of olive oil or the oil of your choice in a clean, food safe spritzer. Close the lid or door and leave it but be careful tending the heat so it doesn’t get too hot.

Pro tip: We often cook a beef brisket at the same time. If you do this, place the venison under the beef so that the fat from the beef drips on it.

Spray the meat a couple times with the vinegar and oil mixture. If your smoker is equipped with temperature probe, insert it into the thickest part of the meat.

Smoke the brisket for 2-4 hours, depending on the size. This brisket was 2¼ pounds and took about 3 hours. The time will vary according to several factors. How many times you open the door and lose heat, how accurate the thermometer is, how much the meat weighs and the particular cut you use.

Check the internal temperature with an instant read thermometer. Stick a fork into the meat. Turn it a bit. The meat should be fork tender.

Different deer populations taste and cook differently, depending on diet, predators, and terrain. See our ultimate guide to cooking deer for more information.

What type of smoker to use

You can use a wood pellet grill or smoker, an electric smoker or a charcoal smoker to make this deer brisket.

How to warm leftovers

If frozen, thaw in the refrigerator.

• Place slices or a whole chunk in a deep baking pan. Pour venison broth or chicken stock (beef is too overpowering for the mild venison flavor) in the bottom of the pan.
• Cover tightly with aluminum foil.
• Bake at 325°F about 20 minutes for slices. About 40 hour for larger chunks.

You can also warm it in the slow cooker on low for a couple of hours with some stock, BBQ sauce or other liquid.

What to serve with deer brisket

• mashed potatoes
• French fries
• coleslaw
• cornbread
• fresh veggies, like corn on the cob
• BBQ sauce

What to do with leftovers

Leftovers will last for about 4 days refrigerated. For longer storage, vacuum pack and store in freezer for about 6 months.

Venison brisket makes some great dishes with the leftovers.

• Great tacos, quesadillas and the best fajitas
• Great appetizers. Try a toasted crostini topped with cheddar cheese, brisket and grilled onions, like the ones we did in the photo below.
• Make classic mac & cheese with brisket.
• Warm some sliced brisket and make sandwiches or subs with cheese, grilled onions and BBQ sauce.
• Frittatas

More smoking recipes

• Smoked Beef Brisket
• Chipotle Peppers
• Smoked Spare Ribs
• Steelhead Trout
• Smoked Pulled Pork – Finish with Slow Cooker

Tools to use

• smoker
• meat thermometer
• chef’s knife

This venison brisket is a delicious addition to your venison recipe book. Next year don’t grind it. You’ll be happy you didn’t!

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If you have any questions or comments, please ask in the comment section below. We’d love to hear from you!

I hope you enjoyed the recipe today!

Enjoy. And have fun cooking!

Kent County Man Convicted of Poaching 17-Point Buck

Sentenced Under Maryland’s New Anti-Poaching Law

A Kent County man convicted Tuesday of illegally killing a potential state record white-tailed deer was ordered to pay a fine, make restitution to the state and perform community service.

Ronald Wayne Roe, 28, of Worton, was found guilty on all counts of trespassing and poaching stemming from the shooting of a 17-point buck September on private property.

District Judge John Nunn III sentenced Roe to pay $5,000 in restitution and perform 80 hours of community service, as mandated by the state’s anti-poaching law. Roe also received a $500 fine – $250 suspended – and three years of unsupervised probation. His hunting privileges were suspended for two years. The trial lasted two days over the course of two months.

Joseph Bogdan, the landowner who had targeted the massive buck for several years only to have Roe shoot it, told Judge Nunn it was “the kind of deer that makes a good neighbor a bad neighbor.” At first, he said, he congratulated Roe but as the facts came out “it went sour after that. The deer was baited, killed and gutted on my property.”

A scorer for the Boone and Crockett Club, which measures deer antlers for possible records, said the rack was 212 7/8 total inches. That would have secured the club’s top spot for Maryland crossbow hunters and a top 10 overall state ranking.

The case began on Sept. 12, when officers received a call from a Kent County resident about a suspected case of illegal hunting involving a large buck. An officer located two piles of bait on Bogdan’s property adjacent to land owned by Roe and where he had placed a tree stand. The officer also found a blood trail leading from the bait to the spot where a buck had been field dressed.

Roe told police that he shot the deer with a crossbow on his property but that it died on his neighbor’s property. However, friends called by Roe after he killed the deer contradicted that account, testifying they helped drag the carcass to his property and then to his vehicle. Bogdan’s property was posted with “No Trespassing” signs in numerous locations.

The anti-poaching law took effect June. It requires judges to order restitution and community service in cases of deer poaching. The monetary penalty is based on the measurement of the antlers scored on the Boone and Crockett Club system. A buck with antlers scoring 150 or fewer points requires restitution of $2,000 to $5,000 and 80 hours of community service. A buck with antlers scoring more than 150 points requires restitution of $5,000 to $10,000 and 80 hours of community service. A deer without antlers requires restitution of $300 to $500 and 40 hours of community service.

Roe is the third man sentenced under the law.

Officers on patrol last weekend in the Woodbrook Cooperative Wildlife Management Area charged five Carroll County residents in connection with illegal off-road riding.

On Saturday, Galen Robert Monti Jr., 23, of Westminster, was arrested and charged with driving on a suspended license, displaying the license plate issued to another vehicle, operating an unregistered motor vehicle and operating a vehicle on state land without a permit.

A passenger, Tyler Alexander, 21, of Westminster, was taken into custody for being a fugitive from justice in Pennsylvania and was held pending extradition.

A dirt bike operator, Carl Young, 58, of New Windsor, was issued a citation for driving on state property without a permit.

On Sunday, officers arrested two all-terrain vehicle riders for illegal riding and attempting to flee after being ordered to stop.

Amber Nicole Blizzard, 18, and Michael Gary Walker, 19, both of Mount Airy, were charged with attempting to elude police, operating an off-road vehicle on public property without permission and operating a vehicle on state land without a permit. Walker also was charged with failing to obey a police officer.

Woodbrook is a 522-acre tract owned by Carroll County and managed by the department. No motorized vehicles are allowed.

Trial dates are pending for all five people.

Tips on social media led officers to charge an Allegany County man Friday with turkey and deer poaching.

James Corey Buckley, 43, of Little Orleans, received citations for hunting turkey in a closed season, failing to report the turkey kill, exceeding the antlered deer bag limit during bow season and failing to report a deer kill. He also was issued seven written warnings for hunting-related violations.

Buckley posted a photo on Facebook of a turkey he killed, which was shared with officers. They could not find a corresponding state harvest record.

Buckley volunteered that he killed the turkey in November and then realized the season was closed. While interviewing Buckley, officers noticed two antlered deer heads in his garage. Checking state records, they found that he killed a 6-point buck with a bow Nov. 11 in Frederick County. Buckley told officers he killed the 5-point buck with a bow in Allegany County in December but did not check it in.

Buckley is scheduled to appear in Allegany County District Court April 11.

While the notion of hunting may be traditionally a more masculine activity, this list of girl names that mean hunter underscore the fact females can be successful at hunting endeavors as well. From Winda to Zarola to Cyrene and beyond, each name is unique and beautiful. Take a look!

RELATED: More Baby Names That Mean Hunter

• Kacela- name meaning “African hunter,” Kacela is an optional version of the name Kayla. It’s a beautiful, sweet, yet strong name for a girl.
• Aala- “she who protects and hunts,” the name Aala signals power for your little girl.
• Brenda- Scandinavian and English, Brenda means “blade of the sword.” She, who is named Brenda, is fierce, dominant, and ready for the hunt.
• Fianna – Fianna means “Warrior huntress” in Irish dialect.
• Zarola- Arabic/Muslim heritage, the name Zarola means hunter. It rolls easily off the tongue and works as a modern girl name.
• AlessiaThis name is of Italian origin and means “hunter or defender.”
• Nujalik “Goddess of hunting,” the name Nujalik has a Chinese origin based on the “God on land.”
• Kainda “Hunter’s Daughter, this name is often given to African girls born to powerful, influential fathers.
• Dali- beautiful goddess from the mythology of the Georgian people, Dali serves as an amazing hunter name for a hunting goddess for baby girls. Dali serves as the patron of hoofed wild mountain animals.
• Pakhet A goddess of war and hunt, she often is portrayed as a feline-headed woman who has sharp claws she uses to kill snakes.
• Artemis- Goddess of wind, animals, and hunting, Artemis was a crucial figure in Greek mythology. The regal name is unusual though powerful.
• Winda- Swahili name meaning hunter, Winda sounds as cool to say as it is to write on paper.
• Brielle- French origin, Brielle is a girl’s name meaning “hunting grounds.” The name is sweet and kinds as well as having a relation to hunting.
• Mielikki- God of forest and hunt, Mielikki is a skilled healer with a talent for healing animal paws. She is dainty and charming.
• Rachel- demon hunter, Rachel wants to destroy all demons in her way. The name is feminine yet fierce.
• Cyrene A cute, yet furious name for a girl, Cyrene is the name of Hypeseus’s daughter. She was a fierce huntress. Your little girl will grow up brave when she has this name.
• Pinga- Intuit goddess of medicine, hunt, and fertility. She is strong, physically and mentally.
• Sally “A short trip for pleasure,” Sally works well as a girl’s name if you’re looking for a name that means hunter. Hunters enjoy their trips to wooded areas to hunt down their prey.
• Zarola- name said to mean hunter, Zarola was common for girls names at one time but is nearly unheard of these days. Zarola offers a unique name for your beautiful girl.
• Neith- short, easy name that means hunter is Neith. It’s a charming name and that of the Egyptian goddess of the hunt. The name also means “Divine Mother.”
• Flidais- of the Tuatha De Danann, she is the goddess of hunting and the woodlands or the goddess of all beasts.
• Devana A stylish name for hunter girls, Devana is a Slavic goddess of the hunt. She is equal to the Roman goddess Diana.
• Atalanta- Greek mythology, Atlanta was the daughter of Mainlo and Schoenus. She was left on the mountainside by her father because he wanted a son instead of a daughter.
• Arnakuagsak- goddess who was in charge of making sure hunters had enough food, Arnakuagsak may take time to learn to pronounce properly, but certainly holds rank as a most unusual name.
• Gwyn- Mythical figure known as the fair folk, he led wild hunts among his people. This name works well as a girl name in popular usage.

Peruse thousands of baby names on MomsWhoThink.com! And follow us on Pinterest for more parenting inspiration!

The image featured at the top of this post is ©ANNA GRANT/Shutterstock.com.

Now that whitetail season is over, a lot of hunters will be heading out to chase coyotes so they can pass time until spring. Just like with deer hunting, there will be some guys who get really hardcore, but the majority of the folks in the field will be your average Joe schmo. There is nothing wrong with that, but it does mean your success will depend on how you hunt.

Covering lots of ground this time of year will be your best strategy in the woods.

Often times you will see an electronic call on top of a pickup with guys standing around the truck. While this may sometimes work for them, a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while, and if your goals are higher than a couple chances every year, you will need to put some miles on the boots. My favorite setups are crick/river bottoms. Coyotes love traversing across frozen bodies of water as they can see distances and travel is relatively easy.

In this setup, we are blowing our call across the open water and anticipating a coyote to circle in between us and the water’s edge.

When you first set up, try doing some sort of a lip squeak or mouse squeak. If you’re walking quietly, you could surprise yourself on how close you can set up. If nothing comes in, use a variation of a coyote locator howl, and then transition to a prey distress call. Probably the most common distress call is a cottontail in distress. This call can be a great sequence to pull in curious song dogs, but it may also not work on some high-pressure areas. My favorite distress call to use is a woodpecker in distress. You can learn how to do this call on a softer open reed with a little practice, and it is also found on most electronic calls.

At this point, if you haven’t enticed anything in, switch it up and go with a fox or raccoon fight followed by a coyote distress call (usually some sort of pup distress). The goal here is to paint the picture that a young coyote came in to the dinner bell, and now is getting his butt kicked by an angry fox or raccoon.

Learning to call with an open reed will give you more variation and life-like calling sequences.

After your last call, wait for 10-15 minutes and keep your eyes peeled. Just like turkeys, some coyotes will come screaming in to the call, and some will sneak in without a noise. Those aggressive screamers would have likely already come in, but the ones who are going to tip toe in will pop up now. If you’re not on your toes, these wary responders may bust you quickly, or get too close for you to move before you have a chance to get your weapon on them.

Now, there’s a couple of very important things to keep in mind before you start your vehicle and grab your gun.

1. Wind is everything. Coyotes will almost ALWAYS circle downwind of where they hear the calling from. You can use that to your advantage and setup where you can predict them to circle. Fence lines, drop-offs, water dams, frozen bodies of water, etc, are all good travel routes, and you can also use factors like open bodies of water to pinch down the distance a coyote can circle away from you. The goal here is to get coyotes to circle as close as possible to you, and then take your shot before they get down wind.
2. Blend in. Coyotes can see very well. If there’s snow on the ground, you will stick out like a sore thumb in an open area with regular camo on. Snow camo bibs and a coat are a good idea, but if you’re on a budget, a couple of white bedsheets can definitely do the trick with some redneck ingenuity.
3. Stay mobile. Try to stay around the half hour mark with each setup. Wait a few minutes between each different call in your setup, and make sure you give coyotes enough time to come in, but don’t make the mistake of staying in one spot too long. Covering a lot of ground will be the most crucial factor to your success.
4. HAVE FUN. It will be cold and windy, and you will probably be walking a lot, but we are supposed to have fun and enjoy being outdoors. Hunting shouldn’t be a grind. If it gets to that point, you will burn out quickly, and your success will plummet.

Can’t get enough coyote hunting content? Checkout our podcast Calling all Coyotes. Looking for some tips on improving your rifle accuracy? Checkout our blog series on Why You Missed that Deer.

Photos by Ted Zangerle

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This article is based on a Japanese article and has been machine translated.

Sea bass fishing is fishing for sea bass (Japanese sea bass) using a variety of lures.

The most basic of these lures are called minnows, which resemble small fish.

Since minnows are the most basic lure, there are so many types that it is difficult to choose the right one.

In this article, we’ll take a closer look at minnows and introduce six recommended products!

If you’re not sure which minnow to choose, please try one of these.

Introduction to the characteristics and usage of minnows

First, let’s take a look at the characteristics of minnows and how to use them.

Before choosing a minnow, it is a good idea to first learn more about minnows.

A minnow is a lure that resembles a small fish.

Minnows are one of the many types of lures, and their main characteristic is that they resemble small fish.

Not only does it look like a real fish, but it also swims just like a real fish.

Therefore, it has the ability to catch sea bass in areas where there are many small fish that serve as bait for sea bass, as well as in areas where there are not so many.

It is also easy to use, and the basic operation is just to reel it in.

Sometimes you need to give it a little action, but basically just reeling it in is enough to catch fish, so it is easy to use even for beginners.

As you can see, the minnow is one of the most basic of lures, yet easy to handle, and is quite suitable for beginners.

Minnows are great for any situation.

I mentioned above that minnows work well both in areas with and without small fish as bait.

In fact, minnows have the power to catch sea bass anytime and anywhere, regardless of where, when or when they are used.

Therefore, it is best to use it for the first cast at the point where you are going for the first time or when you are not sure if you can catch fish.

You can also determine whether to use more intense or natural lures based on the reaction of the sea bass to the minnow.

In other words, minnows are the standard for all lures and are essential for sea bass fishing.

This is the first lure you should buy if you are a beginner in sea bass fishing.

Keep a few different types of minnows on hand.

And there are three types of minnows: the floating type that floats when stopped, the sinking type that sinks, and the suspending type that stops on the spot.

Each of these three types of minnows has its own strengths in certain situations and times of the year, and it is recommended to have more than one type available if possible.

However, if you can only afford one of them, we recommend the floating type.

The floating type is a type of minnow that dives deep when reeling in and rises to the surface when stopped.

The floating type is the easiest type to catch for beginners because the action of stopping and floating often attracts sea bass.

For this reason, we have picked up recommended minnows, focusing on the floating type.

Choose one of these minnows and you’re good to go! 6 Recommended Minnows

Here are six types of minnows for seabass fishing that we actually recommend.

Recommendation 1: Shimano Exsence Silent Assassin 140F AR-C

The X-Sense Silent Assassin 140FAR-C is a minnow from the sea bass fishing lure series sold by Shimano.

The action and size of the lure are easy to handle, making it suitable for beginners who are new to lures.

It features Shimano’s original center of gravity shifting system called AR-C, which gives it more flying distance than other minnows of the same size.

It will definitely be very useful when sea bass are bouncing in the distance.

The color lineup includes models that glow like actual fish scales.

Recommendation 2: Daiwa Seabass Hunter Z

The Seabass Hunter Z is a great minnow for those who are just starting out in fishing and have never handled a lure before.

The lineup includes two of the most frequently used and easy to handle sizes, 9cm and 12cm.

Its swimming action is that of an orthodox minnow, so just reeling it in is enough to appeal to sea bass.

Another major attraction of this minnow is its price, which is less than 1000 yen.

Most other minnows cost around 1500 yen, so this price is quite reasonable.

You may want to buy more than one of several colors.

Recommendation 3: Daiwa Shoreline Shiner Z Set Upper 125S-DR

The Shoreline Shiner Z Set Upper is one of the most popular minnows among the many sea bass fishing minnows.

Of course, they are popular because they can be fished, and even beginners can significantly improve their chances of catching fish.

And these minnows sink slowly when stopped, a type called slow sinking.

It is recommended to use it when you cannot catch fish easily with floating type minnows or when you are targeting deep water.

It can be used in quite a wide range of situations because it can also provide enough distance.

Be sure to purchase these along with the floating minnows.

Recommendation 4: Megabass ONETEN Jr.

SW is a lure that was originally popular as a minnow for bass fishing, but was developed for the salt lure game.

It has enough flying distance as a lure for sea bass fishing, so it can be used to attack a wide range of distant points.

It is a minnow that is good at exploring efficiently when you don’t know the conditions of the day at the fishing spot.

It is also attractive because it has a quick darting action when the rod is lightly agitated.

The darting action stimulates the predatory instinct of sea bass lured by the natural action.

Recommendation 5: Megabass X-80SW

The X-80SW is a recommended lure for those who are looking for a minnow with power that moves greatly and appeals to a wide range of people.

The body is larger than the minnows we have introduced so far, allowing it to fly a considerable distance.

When you just reel it in, it swims in a big left-right motion called wobbling.

There are very few minnows that can make this wobbling motion as large as this minnow, so it will be able to make sea bass that do not respond to other minnows respond.

And the type is slow sinking, which enables you to keep attacking the same depth steadily.

Recommendation 6: Jackall Big Backer Gulf Minnow

The Big Bucker Gulf Minnow is a minnow from the Big Bucker salt game lure series sold by Jackal.

This product was originally developed to target bluefish such as yellowtails, but it is also very useful when targeting sea bass.

It has a solid weight of 27g, so it can be used for long-distance casting in large rivers and offshore embankments.

Of course, when you are targeting sea bass, you may also catch bluefish such as yellowtails, and the durability of the lure is such that it can handle such situations without problems.

If you want to fish for sea bass and other big fish that can be caught in the ocean, please consider purchasing this product.

If you want to go sea bass fishing, buy a minnow first!

Minnows are an essential lure for sea bass fishing and should be the first lure you purchase if you are a beginner.

Since these lures can actually catch sea bass, many types are sold by various manufacturers.

Among them, the six minnows introduced here are easy to handle and are recommended for beginners, so please refer to them.