Know your limits and what species you are shooting!

Make sure you know how many and of what species you can legally harvest. It’s tempting to just blast away at first light at the first bird you see but take the time to harvest the right birds, it’s the law, too. There are plenty of identification guides online like this one from Ducks Unlimited.

Also, learn what the ducks sound like as a secondary identification source. It can get wild and crazy when a lot are flying so taking the time to learn can save a lot of heartache.

Brrrrrr, layer up!

Its gets cold, so layer up! You can always shed clothing if needed. It’s a fact…it’s colder by the water and that wind stings a bit more with every guest. Layering up will make sure you are plenty warm. Most importantly, cover your head as you lose most of your heat through your head.

Don’t let ‘em see you

Camo is a must! Moreover, if you have a new outer layer (jacket, bibs, etc) rub it around in some dirt to remove the new sheen. Make sure you attempt to match your camo to your hunting grounds as best as possible. Them ducks see real well, so a camo that doesn’t blend is almost as bad as not wearing camo at all.

Don’t Look Up!

Ducks can see incredibly well. Looking up at circling ducks is like shining a spotlight at them! Its sounds funny but go outside and practice looking up with your eyes and not your head. Also, wearing a facemask will help if you have to look up!

Quack, quack calling

Learn how to call but don’t overdo it. The less the better, normally. Don’t try to master every duck noise at once…ease into it. The basic mallard quack, feeding call, hale call and a basic whistle to mimic a teal drake will help them get in range.

Late Season Birds are Spooky

Cut down on your decoys and calling the later in the season. Birds tend to get smarter the more they are shot at. How would you feel if at every restaurant and hotel you stopped at on a thousand mile trip you were shot at? Yeah, you’d be a bit edgy and beyond careful. I typically will only use 2-4 decoys late in the season and no motion type decoys. They seem to avoid those late in the year.

Movement in the Decoys

Ducks don’t normally just sit there. So if you don’t have any wind to move them around purchase a jerk string to add some movement. The spinning wing decoys work well early in the season too but don’t over do it! Sometimes too much movement is a unrealistic.

Match your shot size to your target

No point in firing #2 steel shot at teal ducks. You’ll blow them to pieces. With bigger ducks such as mallards and gadwalls #2 is suitable. There are many guides online that offer recommendations for matching the bird shot size to your prey such as this one from Outdoor Life.

Early Teal Season

There is nothing better than coming back from the morning hunt with a stringer full of teal! Teal are the first birds down in September in Texas where I hunt! Early season teal sometimes act as though they left their brains up north, so take advantage!

They are very fast flyers and are suckers for decoys. No reason to get a teal motion duck decoy. We throw a MOJO dove decoy into our mix and it works great! They are mighty tasty so try eating them Texas style! Cut a slit between the meat and the breastbone on either side and placing a slice of a Texas 1015 onion on one side of the dove breast and a jalapeno on the other side.

SEAWORMS

There are two species of seaworms that are popular among striper fishermen, the bloodworm and the sandworm. Both are dug from mud tidal flats in Maine, but they can be found throughout the Northeast.

The worms are similar in their appearance and effectiveness, yet there is a strong regional preference for bloodworms in southern New Jersey, while fishermen to the north prefer sandworms. Bloodworms hold the hook a bit better than sandworms, but both are relatively fragile.

In southern New Jersey, fishermen use them in rivers and back bays for spring stripers. In northern New Jersey and throughout New York, shore fishermen use sandworms in the surf and in the bays, while boat fishermen use them to sweeten trolling rigs.

For fishing these baits from shore, fishermen have the most luck using a two-hook rig like the Pompano Rig. Tied with short leaders and small baitholder or circle hooks, this rig is best fished on back-bay mud flats or sand beaches.

Years ago, slow-trolling sandworms on a worm harness from a small boat was the preferred tactic for catching early-season stripers in Long Island Sound. Though this technique has fallen out of favor with modern anglers, it’s no less effective today, and will account for big numbers of spring stripers.

The bizarre-looking tube-and-worm rig is a proven tactic for big stripers throughout the season. Tipping the tube with a piece of sandworm is the secret to the rig’s success as the scent of the worm seals the deal for stripers following the rig.

Keep Them Fresh

If you have leftover seaworms, place them on a bed of damp seaweed and put them in your refrigerator. They should keep for a week or so.

CLAMS

Though stripers can’t crack the shell of a full-size surf clam, when a storm does the cracking for them, they don’t hesitate to slurp down the gooey entrails. Clams are a very popular bait in New Jersey and on Long Island.

Clams are best used when fresh, bought in the shell at your local tackle shop. In the absence of fresh, salted clams are the next best, with frozen being a last resort.

Surf fishermen use clams along sandy beaches and inside mudbottom bays, especially early and late in the season. Boat fishermen anchor around back-bay structure and ladle out clam bellies to start a chum slick and bring the stripers right to the boat.

Bathe Them in Brine

At the end of your trip, if you won’t be getting out again soon, you can save your clam baits for a future outing by adding them to a kosher salt brine and placing them in the freezer. Be careful not to oversalt the clams or they will become rock-hard and useless as striper bait.

BUNKER

Live or cut into chunks, bunker share the title of the best big-bass bait with eels.

Since dead bunker are easy to procure from bait shops, chunking is the most popular method for using this bait. Surf fishermen usually switch over from clams to bunker late in the springtime when larger stripers move in from southern waters. Boat fishermen chunk bunker throughout the season, anchoring up and doling out small pieces of baitfish while sending back a larger chunk or the head on a hook.

Live bunker are usually fished weightless with a large hook worked through the nose. In deeper waters, or areas with current, fishermen will rig the bunker on a three-way rig with a sinker to help it drop into the strike zone. Surf fishermen can use live bunker by employing a technique known as the “snag and drop,” whereby they cast a weighted treble hook into a school of bunker, snag a bait with long sweeps of the rod, and allow the bait to swim.

The weighted treble, and mortal wound, causes the struggling bunker to sink below the school where opportunistic stripers make a quick meal of it. Some fishermen frown upon this technique as it can lead to stripers being deep-hooked with a treble hook, but if fishermen set the hook at the first strike, the chances of a gut-hooked fish will be reduced dramatically.

Catch Your Own

Bunker are easily caught since they give their presence away by flipping on the surface. Boat fishermen can quickly acquire a day’s worth of bait by tossing a large, heavily weighted cast net over a school of bunker inside a bay or harbor. On the ocean, both shore and boat fishermen use weighted treble hooks cast into the school and snag the large baitfish.

Cutting a Bunker for Chunking

Head A fine piece of bait when looking to weed out skates, dogfish, bluefish and smaller stripers in favor of large fish. Large stripers are accustomed to cleaning up the bunker heads left behind by marauding bluefish schools, and will rarely pass up this bait. Hook the head through the meat on the bunker’s “shoulder,” not through the nose or lips as you would with a live bunker. This allows the hook to tear through the softer flesh when you set the hook, allowing for a better set.

Prime Ribs The next two cuts of bunker include the ribcage and viscera, and leave a potent scent trail the water. These are the best part of the bunker to use as bait when schoolies, skates and dogfish aren’t a nuisance.

Round The last chunk of bunker is all meat. Some fishermen will use it as bait, especially for blues and smaller bass, but many prefer to cut this section into smaller pieces to toss over the side as chum.

Tail Cut the tail off and toss it over. It has little value as bait or chum, and left on, will cause the final cut of bunker to spin while on the hook.

MACKEREL

Mackerel are one of the most popular live baits for striped bass north of Cape Cod. Fished weightless on a live-lining rig or under a float, fishermen use mackerel around rocky structure and shorelines. Slow-trolling with live mackerel is another popular technique for tempting large stripers. Dead mackerel are a great bait when chunked and fished on the bottom. Many bait and tackle shops will have frozen mackerel on hand throughout the season, making it a great backup bait when fresh pogies aren’t available.

Catch Your Own

If you want live macks, it’s on you to catch them. North of Cape Cod, mackerel can be found in large schools over inshore structure and in deep areas with some current. To catch them, drop a mackerel tree or Sabiki rig with a small diamond jig as the weight. You can draw them in and keep them around your boat by using chum.

PORGY

The porgy is a favorite bait for fishermen seeking trophy stripers off eastern Long Island and in Long Island Sound. Summer stripers will hunt schools of porgies around reefs and other bottom structure, making them an effective bait to match the hatch.

Catch Your Own

Since no bait and tackle shops sell live porgies, you’ll have to catch them on your own before your trip. Usually, catching porgies with pieces of clam or squid is no problem; however, finding a perfect baitsize porgy that meets the minimum size limit (9 inches NJ; 10 inches NY), but is no more than 12 or so inches long can be difficult. Fortunately, the payoff when you find them is quick.

Porgies congregate over shallow structure such as a mussel bed or reef. Anchor over this structure and send out a chum pot filled with frozen clam chum. Lower a clam-baited high-low rig to the bottom, and the action should be immediate. Toss the bait-size porgy in the livewell, and when you have enough, head for the striper grounds.

Since fishermen target structure while fishing with scup, a three-way rig or fishfinder rig with enough weight to get the bait to the bottom is best. Once the rig hits bottom, take a few cranks of the reel handle so the live scup drifts past the structure just a few feet above it.

EELS

From the Cape May Rips to Montauk, eels are the go-to live bait for stripers because they are readily available at most tackle shops, are easy to keep alive, and big stripers can’t help but attack them.

Surfcasters fish eels without weight, casting and retrieving them slowly, almost like a living lure. In shallow waters, boat fishermen employ this same technique, casting the eels toward shoreline structure and retrieving them back to the boat. In deeper waters, boaters fish the eels on threeway rigs, lowering the eel to the bottom as they drift over structure.

No Tank, No Problem!

Three Bucket Eel System With a few tools from the garage and three 5-gallon buckets picked up at your local hardware store, you can easily build one of these systems that will keep your eels alive and fresh for days. Drill holes into the bottoms of the top two buckets and leave the bottom one as-is. Then, as the diagram on the right shows, ice in the top, and eels in the middle. The melting ice will drip onto the eels, keeping them wet and cool, but the drain holes in the eel bucket prevent them from sitting in the ice water and suffocating.

Bullwinkle Disease in Deer

The term “Bullwinkle disease” sounds more like a joke about someone than an actual ailment. As it turns out, Bullwinkle disease in deer is a thing. It’s a true-to-life disease that can impact deer. Although quite rare, it seems white-tailed deer can get an infection that causes their muzzle to swell. In turn, their face looks more like the cartoon moose Bullwinkle than that of a normal, healthy whitetail.

Wildlife vets know that the head swelling is caused by a long-term bacterial infection in soft tissues of the afflicted deer’s face. However, the most fascinating part of Bullwinkle disease is that no one knows how deer get it. Or even where the bacteria comes from.

Bullwinkle Deer

Source: “The Southeastern Cooperative Wildlife Disease Study (SCWDS) has been studying the parasites and diseases of white-tailed deer for more than 56 years. With so much time and effort invested in this area, one would think that few surprises would be left, but that doesn’t ever seem to be the case. Since 2005, we have received samples from ten deer with oddly deformed muzzles, as well as reports of several other affected deer. The swollen muzzles give them a strange appearance and prompted someone to call them “Bullwinkle deer,” based on their resemblance to the 1960’s cartoon character.

Although the cases reported to us are uncommon, they occur over a wide geographic area. In fact, affected white-tailed deer have been submitted to SCWDS from as far north as Michigan and as far south as Alabama. Furthermore, the condition also has been confirmed in a mule deer buck in Idaho.

Bullwinkle Disease in Deer & Head Swelling

The swollen faces are the result of chronic inflammation in the soft tissues of the muzzle. Deer with lumpy jaw can also have swollen jaws, but not to the same extent. The inflammation also is seen in connective tissues in the oral cavity, but it is much more severe on the nose and upper lip. All of the deer examined have had similar colonies of bacteria within the inflammatory infiltrates. Attempts to culture the bacteria have been frustrating. This is possibly due to chronicity of lesions, freezing and storage of samples prior to submission. Alternatively, it may be due to excessive growth of secondary bacterial contaminants.

Staining characteristics and DNA sequencing of the bacterial colonies observed suggest they differ from other organisms known to cause problems in deer. Investigations continue into the bacteria’s potential role in the development of this condition.

So far, all of the reported cases have been in hunter-killed deer or deer observed in the wild. Some deer have been thin, but there have been no reports of mortality directly attributed to this disease. One landowner reported having seen the same affected deer at a backyard feeder for nearly two years. Many of the deer observed or killed have been known to visit feed sites. However, the association with feeding is anecdotal. At this time, we do not know the factors that may predispose a deer to develop this unusual condition.

The lesions are certainly dramatic, but this disease does not appear to have any negative consequences for deer populations. Cases are relatively infrequent and are not clustered. It is possible that this problem has always occurred in deer, but at a very low prevalence. However, it has become very easy for photographs to be widely circulated among hunters and biologists in a very short period of time. We can attribute that to hunters, trail cameras and the internet.

This rapid sharing of information may have increased the detection and submission of rare and unusual cases, such as the Bullwinkle disease in deer we see here. Prepared by Kevin Keel, University of California-Davis”

Even if you are just beginning to learn how to butcher a deer, the easy tips in this quick start guide will have you grinding venison like a professional!

Many hunters throw away a lot of money paying someone else to butcher their deer when they could easily do it themselves. I don’t think it is because people don’t want to process it themselves, they just don’t know how. And frankly, there aren’t a lot of good resources online showing you how to do it right.

So with that in mind, I wrote up this very thorough quick start guide. Whether you have been grinding venison for years or looking to do it for the first time, this guide will give you professional results every single time.

Is deer processing equipment expensive?

You can buy a respectable meat grinder for less money than it costs to process one deer, which is all you really need to get started. Tip: When first starting out, each time you harvest a deer use the money saved from not paying a processor to buy another piece of processing equipment (grinder, vacuum sealer, sausage stuffer, smoker, etc…). In no time you will have an enviable setup.

What Grinder Do I Need to Grind Venison?

Any size grinder can do the job, but a larger one will make your life easier. I find the LEM Big Bite #8 .35 HP grinder (affiliate link) to be perfect for processing one deer. You won’t regret getting as large of a grinder as you can reasonably afford, particularly if you are butching multiple deer at once. If you can’t afford a big grinder don’t fret, I also spent years using small el-cheapo models and they did the job too. Heck, our grandparents used hand-crank grinders (affiliate link) and survived just fine!

Other Equipment Needed to Butcher Deer

In a perfect world, you would own a sausage stuffer and a vacuum sealer (affiliate links). The sausage stuffer is great not only for making venison sausage but also for stuffing ground venison into freezer bags. However, if you can’t afford these right away, don’t worry, they are not required.

Adding Fat to Venison

Grinding beef or pork fat with your venison adds flavor, acts as a binder, and most importantly adds moisture to your meat. The amount of fat needed varies depending on what you plan to cook.

How much fat do I need?

• 0-10% Fat – Use for heavily seasoned, loose meat meals such as venison chili, sloppy joes, and tacos.
• 20% Fat – Best for juicy venison burgers, venison meatloaf, and venison meatballs.
• 30% Fat – Ideal for making summer sausage and snack sticks.

Best Fat for Grinding with Venison

Beef fat adds a noticeable ‘beefy’ flavor to your venison. Pork fat has a more neutral flavor but goes rancid quicker in the freezer. I typically use beef fat in my normal grind to get a longer freezer life, but I use pork fat when making venison sausages because the neutral flavor allows the sausage seasonings to shine through better. Honorable mention: Bacon fat – great flavor but pricey.

Where to buy fat

Your local butcher shop (not grocery store) will have beef or pork trim you can purchase for cheap. It is best to call in advance. Every butcher I have spoken to has also been happy to share thoughts, tips, and best practices for grinding meat and sausage making.

Do I have to grind venison with fat?

There are a lot of people who prefer to grind venison without any fat added, for both the cleaner venison flavor and fewer calories. Just don’t invite me over for burgers.

How to Grind Venison

Your grinder has multiple grinding plates that are ideal for different uses.

• All-purpose grind: If you are going to grind all of your meat one way, use this grind. Run meat and fat through the medium grinding plate, alternating between meat and fat for even distribution. Then grind everything through a second time. This grind mimics the texture of store-bought hamburger.
• Chili grind: The all-purpose grind is commonly used for chili, but if you want to grind meat specifically for a great chili, grind the venison once through the coarse grinding plate. No need to add fat. The coarser grind will stand up to a long simmer without getting mushy or falling apart.
• Sausage grind: Grind meat and fat through a medium grinding plate, then run a second time through using a fine grinding plate. Alternatively, using the all-purpose grind method works as well if you prefer a coarser grind to your sausages. A good sausage recipe should specify the best grind for that sausage as well.

Tip: Your meat and fat grinds most easily when semi-frozen. Warm fat smears easily and can get stuck on the grinding plate/blade. Briefly sticking your grinding attachments in the freezer prior to use, also helps keep the meat and fat cold.

How to store venison

Vacuum sealing protects well against freezer burn and extends the freezer life of your meat. However, inexpensive wild game freezer bags (affiliate link) work well too.

Bob Humphrey

Lines on a Map

Ask most any experienced turkey hunter and they can quickly rattle off the names of the four subspecies or races of wild turkey recognized by The National Wild Turkey Federation for purposes of their Grand Slam. A fair number could probably add a fifth for the North American Slam and a sixth for the World Slam. For those not already familiar with them, they are as follows:

Eastern – The Eastern is the largest and most wide-spread race, occurring in every state east of the Mississippi River and along the length of the river’s western side, as well as eastern portions of several plains states and Texas. They are the largest (heaviest) race, sport the longest beards and are best distinguished by chestnut brown tips of their tail feathers and tail coverts. They’re strong, deep-throated gobbles are symbolic of the wild turkey.

Osceola – The Osceola (or Florida) turkey has the narrowest range, occurring only in central and south Florida. They closely resemble Easterns except they tend to be leaner with longer legs, and their primary wing feathers have heavy black barring, as opposed to Eastern where the black-white barring is more even. Their gobble is essentially indistinguishable from an Eastern.

Rio Grande – The Rio Grande’s range spans roughly from Kansas, south through Texas and into Northeastern Mexico, with transplanted populations in California and Oregon (and Hawaii). They are best distinguished by the tan tips of their tail feathers and tail coverts. Their gobble is noticeably different from that of Eastern and Osceola, being more high-pitched and warbly.

Merriam’s – The Merriam’s is scattered across parts of Arizona, New Mexico, up through the mountain states into Nebraska, the Dakotas, and along the Washington, Oregon and Idaho borders. It is best distinguished by the light buff to white tail band and coverts, and showing more white than dark banding in the primaries. While similar to the Rio, its gobble is even higher pitched and softer.

Those are the general guidelines, but for every rule there are exceptions. A century ago, much of what is now their current range was unoccupied by wild turkeys. Thanks to the efforts of state wildlife agencies and NWTF volunteers, turkeys have been restored to most of their historical range through trap and transfer programs. But the folks conducting those efforts weren’t too particular about where their birds came from, as long as they were wild birds. As a result, current subspecies distribution is not nearly as distinct as it once was. In general, the variance is local or regional. For example, Massachusetts’ turkeys came from New York, and Maine’s came from Vermont and Connecticut, but variability is all over the map.

Alabama provides an interesting example. In areas that were repopulated with transplants, the turkeys resemble those in neighboring states. But in areas where the native stock was never extirpated, turkeys look more like Osceola turkeys, with slim bodies and long legs. Some think these birds and Osceolas are representative of a true southeastern strain. Then there are more glaring exceptions. The most extreme is probably Washington, where you can find Eastern, Rio Grande and Merriam’s.

While man played the predominant hand, some of the racial integration was and still is done by the birds themselves, mostly where the geographical range of subspecies overlap. There, you’ll find a lot of hybridization. In east-central Kansas, for example, you may find birds that gobble like Easterns but look more like Rios, and vice versa. And they tend to be among the largest. Nebraska and South Dakota have hybridization of Eastern and Merriam’s. Occasionally there’s just no explanation for what you observe. I hunted a ranch south of San Antonio where we shot birds that had that silly little girl, laughing gobble of a Rio Grande, but looked like Easterns, with brown tail bands and coverts. And on a single hunt in western Nebraska I killed three birds, one resembling an Eastern, one a Rio and the third looked pure Merriam’s. Because translocation and hybridization have led to so much diverse integration, taxonomists tend to ignore subspecies or races and simply lump them all under one species. The lines on a map distinguishing subspecies range are largely just that, lines on a map. However, they do serve as geographic boundaries for purposes of recording your Grand Slam. To my knowledge, Texas is the only state has separate regulations for different subspecies (but I could be wrong about that.)

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Management

Back when I was a budding wildlife student, my professors would tell us that much of wildlife management is people management, and that’s especially true when it comes to wild turkeys. For the most part, the birds do quite well if left to fend for themselves. At the state level, most management programs simply involve regulating hunter harvest to ensure the resource remains healthy and renewable. However, there’s a lot that can be done at the local level to produce and maintain healthier populations.

When it comes to turkey habitat, the good news is, most of what you do to manage or improve the deer habitat on your ground also benefits turkeys. Both are considered edge species, preferring the ecotone, or interface between habitat types – so, in general, the more edge and diversity, the better the habitat. Beyond that, there are some more specific steps you can take.

However, it’s difficult to get too specific with turkey habitat management recommendations because conditions vary so much across the species’ range, and because they’re such an adaptable species. In general, you want to maximize the general habitat variables: food, cover, water and space. Then look for the lowest hole in the bucket – which element is in least abundance – and patch it. And as with deer, you want to make sure your habitat meets the turkey’s changing needs throughout all four seasons.

Year-Round

Let’s start with their year-round needs, and at the top of the list is “roost trees.” Turkeys need a place to sleep at night. In my part of the world, it’s usually a big white pine. If the birds can find one, they’ll shun all other suitable trees. Height provides protection from terrestrial predators, and thick evergreen branches offer protection from owls and the elements. In the south it might be a giant oak or other hardwood, which are usually in good supply in bottom lands and stream protection zones. Out west, it’s likely to be a cottonwood, which you’ll also find near stream bottoms and shelter belts. But as mentioned, turkeys make do with what they have, and I’ve seen birds in Texas roost on power poles, shooting houses and 10 foot tall mesquite bushes. Bottom line – try to keep sufficient roost trees on the property, the more and the bigger, the better, at least when it comes to turkeys.

Spring

Spring means green-up, an increasing abundance of herbaceous greens. The birds can usually find enough to eat on their own, but give them more in the form of food plots and they’ll be better off for it, now and later on. Again, your deer plots will do just fine, but if you want to plant specifically for turkeys it’s hard to beat clover and chufa. The former you can plant almost anywhere while the latter requires loose, sandy soils. Gobblers need strutting areas. A tom will strut most anywhere when he’s in the mood but he’d much rather be in the open, where the ladies can see him, and he can see predators. That could be food plots, or just logging roads and two-tracks, all things in fairly good supply on most managed properties.

More important is spring nesting cover. Somewhat like a strutting tom, a hen will nest where she has to, but she’d much prefer some dense cover. That might be as complex as those same hinge-cuts you made for deer bedding areas, or as simple as a slash pile left over from your winter firewood cut. They will also nest in CRP areas and densely vegetated fields, so adjust your mowing schedule accordingly.

Far more important for productivity and poult recruitment is predator control, and you don’t need me to tell you how to do that. First, I’m no expert. Second, it would take another entire article, and then some. If you know what you’re doing, do it. If not, consider hiring a professional who does. Chances are it will also help with your fawn production, especially if you have coyotes.

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Summer

At the risk of sounding like a tourism brochure, summer is the time of plenty, when nature abounds with life. Absent of some environmental catastrophe, there’s plenty of food. But the easier it is for turkeys to find the right food, the better. Right now, rapidly growing poults need protein, in the form of insects and invertebrates. They’ll find some in the forest but an open field or food plot full of hoppers and crickets is like an “all you can eat salad bar” for them. Even the skid roads and two tracks the toms used for strut zones will have more insects for their growing offspring. Summer can also be the driest period. For the most part, turkeys will get the moisture they need from their food, as evidenced by their abundance in even the most arid regions. Add water, where it’s scarce, and it only makes finding food easier. And the turkeys will come simply to drink – that’s why lying in ambush near a tank is a popular tactic in Texas.

Fall

The key for fall is food, and we’ll lump late summer in here as well. As summer draws to a close, herbaceous plants are maturing. It can be somewhat stressful for deer as the greenery begins losing its nutritional value, but it’s a boom for birds because maturing forbs and grasses produce seeds. Meanwhile, vines and shrubs are also producing a smorgasbord of soft mast like grapes and berries. Many species grow wild, particularly in disturbed areas like cut-overs, and along those well exposed habitat edges mentioned above. But mast production and availability from wild plants can be variable and unreliable. If you’ll pardon the pun, you can hedge your habitat bets by planting groves or patches of soft mast producing shrubs and trees.

Speaking of trees, many of the same species you plant in your mast orchards for deer will also benefit turkeys, particularly after the soft mast crop passes. As that group of plants dies or goes dormant, the turkeys now turn their attention to what’s left: nuts and that remains the case through winter, when food and cover are most scarce, and when turkeys can sometimes make themselves quite unwelcome. In the west, they may tear into hay bales meant for livestock. In the northeast they’ll do the same to the plastic sheeting covering silage piles. The birds will make the most of whatever they have and somehow they find a way to withstand winter. They’ll scratch away the frozen leaves to find acorns overlooked or possibly even stowed away by small mammals. They’ll plow and paw through deep powder to eat frozen clover. If the snow freezes to a crust they’ll walk on top and feed on the windblown catkins and seeds of birch and ash.

If you provide enough food on your ground, you stand a better chance of keeping the turkeys home and healthy, and keeping your neighbors happy. It’s always preferable to provide natural food but if you’re going to provide supplemental feed this is the time to do it. Just be conscientious and careful how you go about it because like deer, turkeys can quickly become dependent on you for survival when fed supplementally.

Summary

All things considered, turkeys are much easier to manage than deer. Make sure they have a sufficient amount of the proper habitat variables, which is typically the case on most managed and many unmanaged properties. Keep the predators down, time your mowing and burning to avoid nesting periods and manage your harvest rates to avoid over-exploitation. The turkeys will take care of the rest themselves. They even do a pretty good job of limiting harvest by outwitting us more often than not.

Bob Humphrey is a wildlife biologist who participated in the first modern turkey hunt in Massachusetts in 1980. Later he assisted with turkey translocation efforts in Maine and in 2006 became the first per-son to officially record a wild turkey Grand Slam with a crossbow.

The animal world can seem a little cruel and difficult to understand at times, particularly when it comes to how different species will treat their young. You might have wondered, do birds kill their own babies?

Some birds will kill off their offspring if there are not enough food resources to go around, or if they are likely to cause harm to the rest of the brood. Baby birds can also die from neglect or abandonment, though this is rarely just because they have been touched by a human.

Read ahead in this article to find out why some birds might kill their babies, and whether humans might inadvertently make this happen by interfering with a nest.

Why Would a Mother Bird Kill Her Babies?

It is not a myth that some mother birds will kill their babies, but it is not a very common phenomenon. Birds spend a lot of time and energy caring for their young and are often among the most devoted mothers in the animal kingdom.

Almost all species are instinctively driven to survive and reproduce, so why might a mother bird choose to cause the death of her offspring? There are three main reasons why birds have been recorded as actively killing their babies.

• Brood reduction: Mother birds will sometimes kill their babies because they do not have the food resources or nest conditions needed to keep their entire brood alive. Some birds may reduce their brood size so that the limited food or space they have can be given to the healthiest of their offspring, or even be kept for themselves!
• Preventing the spread of infection: If a baby bird is sick with an infection that may spread to the other nestlings or the adult birds, a mother may kill the infected baby or discard them.
• Reducing the breeding success of competing birds: As with many other species, birds have been known to kill the offspring of other parents that they are competing with so that their own babies are more likely to survive.
• To gain attention from dominant males: A rare phenomenon in birds, but the house sparrow females are notorious for killing off other females’ offspring – partly to establish dominance!They do this especially when they replace previous mates of attractive male sparrows with large territories. Partly because they do not want to spend the energy raising other females’ nestlings, but also to demonstrate some kind of dominance over other female competitors!

It is actually more common for baby birds to die from neglect or abandonment than it is for them to be killed directly by their mother. These are often accidental deaths, though, as most bird species are very caring and attentive parents.

Which Bird Species Are Known to Kill Their Babies?

Infanticide is a rare occurrence in birds, but some bird species do seem to be a little less caring than others. So, who are some of the main culprits?

Eclectus Parrots

These parrots are known to kill their young if their nests are not able to support the entire brood.

They usually choose to kill the youngest male sibling first so that older female nestlings will develop more quickly. They do this as they know (by instinct!) that females take less work and food to raise!

Black Eagles

Although black eagle mothers are not necessarily killers themselves, they often let their offspring kill each other without interfering.

When baby black eagles fight, they can sometimes fight to the death, and the mothers will rarely intervene. This allows the strongest of their young to survive.

Cuckoos

You’ve probably heard of the strange way that some cuckoos “care” for their young. They can lay their eggs in the nests of other birds, turning their own babies into “brood parasites”.

Baby cuckoos will often kill off the offspring of the host bird so that they can be raised without competition.

House Sparrows

The males of this widespread bird species are actually known to go out of their way to hunt down and kill the babies of competing males so that their young are more likely to survive. But females will actually do the same, which is unusual for birds!

In fact, more than 10% of new house sparrow nestlings are brought up in a nest where the male (or much rarer, the female) has first killed off the offspring of the previous partner to one of the parents!

Although this behavior is almost always carried out by males in other bird species, house sparrow females are notorious for killing the nestlings of competing females!

They seemingly do this to get more attention from polygamous males and to advance in the social hierarchy.

Do storks kill their babies?

Yes! White Storks have been known to kill their babies and a 3-year-long study found that 9 out of 63 nests experienced infanticide. This means that it only happens in 14% of the nesting couples, but less often if conditions are optimal and perhaps more often if food is scarce.

Why do storks kill their babies?

Storks will kill their babies if they lay too many eggs and therefore have to care for more than they can carry. In other bird species, the nestlings would outcompete each other “naturally” and the parents would not need to intervene, but not in storks.

Therefore, the stork parents will often intervene themselves to put an end to the smallest chick’s misery before it starves to death.

Will Birds Also Eat Their Own Babies?

As a biologist with a keen interest in avian behavior, I can provide insight into the intriguing topic of cannibalism in birds. While it may be unsettling to imagine, yes, there are instances where certain bird species engage in cannibalistic behaviors, including consuming their own offspring.

Although this behavior is relatively rare among birds, it has been observed in various contexts and can serve different purposes depending on the species and circumstances involved.

One important point to emphasize is that the vast majority of bird species do not exhibit cannibalistic tendencies towards their young. Parental care and nurturing instincts are deeply ingrained in most avian species, as they invest significant time and energy in rearing their offspring.

The act of killing and consuming their own young goes against the typical parental behavior observed in birds, which is geared towards ensuring the survival and well-being of their progeny.

Nevertheless, there are several factors that can contribute to instances of cannibalism in birds. These factors include food scarcity, competition for resources, stress, environmental conditions, and even genetic predispositions.

In certain cases, a parent bird may perceive their own offspring as a potential source of nutrition, especially when food availability is limited or unpredictable. By consuming their young, the parent bird gains sustenance to survive during challenging times.

In addition to nutritional benefits, cannibalism in birds can also serve other purposes. One such purpose is related to maintaining the overall fitness of the parent bird. By eliminating weaker or sickly offspring through cannibalism, the parent bird can allocate its limited resources towards raising the healthier offspring, thus increasing the chances of their survival and overall reproductive success.

This behavior, known as “culling,” ensures that the limited resources are allocated to the strongest individuals who have a higher likelihood of passing on their genes to the next generation.

It is important to note that cannibalism in birds is not limited to parents consuming their own young. In some cases, unrelated adult birds may prey upon the young of other individuals within their own species.

This type of cannibalism can occur as a result of territorial disputes, dominance hierarchies, or simply as a opportunistic feeding behavior.

Certain species of birds, such as gulls and raptors, have been observed engaging in this behavior, particularly when food resources are scarce or when defending their nesting territories.

It is crucial to understand that cannibalism in birds is not the norm, but rather an exception to the typical parental care exhibited by avian species. The majority of bird parents invest significant effort in protecting, feeding, and nurturing their young, ensuring their survival and eventual independence. Cannibalism, when it does occur, is generally a result of exceptional circumstances and environmental pressures.

In conclusion, while it may be unsettling to contemplate, cannibalism in birds, including the act of consuming their own offspring, has been observed in certain species. This behavior can be driven by factors such as food scarcity and the need to prioritize the survival of the fittest offspring.

However, it is important to remember that such behaviors are not representative of the broader avian population. Most birds exhibit remarkable parental care and strive to ensure the well-being and success of their young.

Do Birds Kill Their Babies If You Touch Them?

You’ve probably been told to leave a baby bird alone if you spot one out in the wild because its mother will kill it if it has a human smell, but is this true?

Actually, this idea is a myth, although the advice that it has produced is actually pretty sensible.

Birds will not kill their babies just because they have been touched by humans, and a human smell is not going to cause a baby to be abandoned.

The problem with touching a baby bird is that your presence is likely to scare off the parents, and the adult birds may find it difficult to locate them again.

It’s best to leave a baby bird where you find it because you want its parents to come back, and they are more likely to do so if you’re not around.

If the birds are older at the fledgling state, the bird might not belong in the nest anymore and will take care of by the parents. In if that is the case, you should not move it or try to rescue it!

What Do Birds Do When Their Babies Die?

When baby birds do die, it can seem very sad to us, but do the adult birds become upset? What do they do when this happens? Well, it’s hard to determine exactly how much emotion birds have.

There is no scientific proof that birds will mourn or grieve, but some of their behavior does suggest a level of sadness.

For example, penguins are known to hold onto their young for a long time even after they have died, crows have been observed gathering around their dead, and magpies will sometimes place objects over the bodies of deceased birds.

As for what actually happens when a baby bird dies, things are a little more practical. Dead bodies breed bacteria and attract predators, so they need to be removed from the nest.

The larger the baby is, the further they will be taken away. Many predatory and scavenger birds, like vultures and hawks, will even eat their young, though this does not seem to be done out of maliciousness, but simply because it is expedient.

In the end, though we may never know for sure what goes on in a bird’s mind when its young die, we can see that they do take some actions that could be interpreted as signs of sadness.

What can you do to prevent birds from killing their own babies?

You always have to be careful when trying to help birds as the reason for their behaviour can vary and you might make it worse!

Some possible reasons for bird infanticide include if the bird is sick, stressed or hungy, if the bird feels threatened, if the baby is not healthy, or if the mother bird is simply inexperienced.

If you are concerned about birds killing their own babies, you can try to provide nesting materials and a safe environment for them to nest in.

You can also try putting out extra food for them in your yard. I have already written extensively about how to feed backyard birds in each state of the US here on the site – so just go and find the bird in question and read all about what to feed it in my posts on backyards birds!

I will put some links at the end of this post as well!

Conclusion

As much as we might not understand it, killing babies is a natural occurrence in the animal world. For birds, it usually happens when the mother bird is trying to protect her (future) offspring or ensure their success.

While it’s a myth that human touch will cause a mother bird to kill her baby, it’s best to leave them alone so as not to scare off the parents. And if a baby bird does die, the adult birds usually handle it by removing the body from the nest without measurable remorse.

FAQs

Do blue jays kill their babies?

There are many factors that can affect the behavior of blue jays. Some reports suggest that blue jays may kill their babies if they perceive a threat to their safety, while other reports indicate that blue jays are generally gentle and nurturing parents. Ultimately, it is important to remember that every animal is unique and therefore reactions to different situations will vary.

Do mourning doves kill their babies?

No, mourning doves are not known to kill their babies.

Do quails kill their babies?

There is no definitive answer to this question as different quail species exhibit different behaviors. But some species might do so.

Why do quails kill their babies?

Some quail birds will kill their own babies if they perceive them to be a threat, while others will not. It is speculated that quails may kill their babies if they are sick or deformed in some way, in order to prevent the spread of disease.

Do budgies kill their babies?

Some budgies may kill their babies if they feel threatened or if they are not getting enough food, while others may not kill their babies under any circumstances.

Do geese kill their babies?

No, geese do not kill their babies. They are herbivores and would not normally be aggressive against their young.

Do crows kill their babies?

Crows will gladly eat other bird’s eggs and babies but do rarely eat their own offspring. Some crows may kill their babies if they perceive them to be a threat to their survival during food shortage.

Do Canadian geese kill their babies?

No, geese do not kill their babies. They are herbivores and would not normally be aggressive against their young.

Do swans kill their babies?

Swans, like geese, are herbivorous birds that do not normally have a taste for meat. They have very few babies so they will not let them go to waste. And whereas they will never kill their own babies, they will sometimes kill the nestlings of competing swan couples!

Do parakeets kill their babies?

No, parakeets do not kill their babies. Parakeets are small, gentle birds that typically make great parents.

Do finches kill their babies?

No, finches do not kill their babies. They are small, seed-eating birds that typically have large clutches of eggs (6-8). The female will incubate the eggs and both parents will feed the chicks once they hatch.

They may sometimes peck them by accident and kill them unintentionally. They will then throw them out of the nest where they will day from the fall if not completely dead already.

Do zebra finches kill their babies?

Zebra finches are very similar to regular finches and do not kill their babies on purpose.

Why would zebra finches kill their babies?

Zebra finches would only kill their babies by accident and never intend to do so on purpose. Especially when held in captivity where food is usually plentiful. They may sometimes peck them on accident as they are not the most intelligent birds around!

Do chickens kill their babies?

Chickens only kill their babies if they are hurt or injured. Sometimes they will eat their own eggs if they are free-range. However, they would only do this if they could not lay another egg that day and needed to conserve their energy.Chickens are omnivorous birds, but they mostly eat plants. They will only eat meat if it is available, but they do not hunt for it.

Do cardinals kill their babies?

As cardinals have very strong family bonds, it is unlikely they would kill their babies but it is possible. Cardinals will only kill their babies if they are severely disturbed or stressed.

Do robins kill their babies?

I have never heard any reports of robins killing their babies. So at least, they are not well known to do so.

Do hawks kill their babies?

Hawks are predators and will kill baby animals for food, including other birds, but they rarely kill their own babies as they do not have large broods.

Do sparrows kill their babies?

Yes! As mentioned earlier in this post, house sparrows kill almost ten percent of their total offspring if we count across and between couples!

Do mother ducks kill their babies?

No, ducks do not kill their babies.

And let’s end this post on a happy note: In fact, duck mothers are very nurturing and will often incubate other duck’s eggs and raise their chicks if given the chance!

More About Backyard birds in North America

Are you interested in how the backyard birds in your state compare to other states?

Then check out my other blog posts below:

• Backyard birds of Alabama
• Backyard birds of Colorado
• Backyard birds of Delaware
• Backyard birds of Georgia
• Backyard birds of Hawaii
• Backyard birds of Illinois
• Backyard birds of Iowa
• Backyard birds of Kentucky
• Backyard birds of Louisiana
• Backyard birds of Maryland
• Backyard birds of Massachusetts
• Backyard birds of Missouri
• Backyard birds of Nebraska
• Backyard birds of New York
• Backyard birds of North Carolina
• Backyard birds of Oklahoma
• Backyard birds of Rhode Island
• Backyard birds of South Carolina
• Backyard birds of Tennessee
• Backyard birds of Texas
• Backyard birds of Virginia
• Backyard birds of West Virginia
• Backyard birds of Wisconsin
• Backyard birds of Wyoming

And in Canada:

• Backyard birds of Ontario
• Backyard birds of Prince Edward Island
• Backyard birds of Saskatchewan
• Backyard birds of Quebec

Not on the list? Check out the rest of my posts on backyard birds here!

Maybe you would like to know if the Blue Jay or Cardinal dominates in the bird feeder hierarchy or how birds such as seagulls sleep at night? Or why mourning doves poop so much.

My Favorite Backyard Birding Gear:

If you are interested in posters and other wall arts etc. with drawings of all the backyard birds you have just read about, check out my portfolio over at Redbubble:

https://feederwatch.org/

American Museum of Natural History Birds of North America. DK; Revised edition (September 6, 2016). ISBN: 978-1465443991

National Geographic Backyard Guide to the Birds of North America, 2nd Edition. National Geographic; 2nd edition (October 15, 2019)

Birds of North America. National Audubon Society. (Knopf April 6, 2021). ISBN: 978-0525655671

https://celebrateurbanbirds.org/

https://www.birds.cornell.edu/

Gamo is a Spanish company that has been manufacturing air rifles since 1961. The company is best known for its high-powered, high-velocity rifles. In recent years, Gamo has been advertising the Magnum as being the fastest pellet gun on the market. So, is it?

Gamo Magnum FPS

The Gamo Magnum boasts an impressive FPS of 1,650 in .177 caliber and 1,300 in .22 caliber. To put that into perspective, most pellet guns have an FPS of around 700-900. So, there’s no doubt that the Gamo Magnum is a powerful air rifle. But is it the fastest?
The Gamo Magnum is capable of reaching speeds up to 1650 fps and 1300 fps with PBA Platinum ammo, making it ideal for taking down rabbits, squirrels, raccoons, and crows. The fixed fiber optic front sight and fully adjustable fiber optic rear sight help you keep your target in sight, while the 11mm scope rail with scope stop provides a stable platform for mounting your favorite optics. The rifled steel barrel and SWA (Shock Wave Absorber) recoil pad work together to deliver precise shots with reduced felt recoil, while the all-weather ambidextrous thumbhole stock ensures a comfortable grip in any conditions

Other features of Gamo Magnum

In addition to its high velocity, the Gamo Magnum also features a precision rifled barrel, fiber optic sights, and a shockwave absorber recoil pad. These features make the Gamo Magnum a great choice for both beginners and experienced shooters alike.

Other Product features:

• 11mm scope rail with scope stop
• Rifled steel barrel
• SWA (Shock Wave Absorber) recoil pad reduces felt recoil by up to 74%
• All-weather ambidextrous thumbhole stock with black rubber inserts on grip, forearm and cheekpiece
• Custom Action Trigger (CAT) independently adjustable 1st and 2nd stage, allows you to tailor you trigger
• Automatic cocking safety system
• Manual safety
• Recoil Reducing Rail maximizes scope lifespan with 99.9% recoil compensation
• Includes 3-9×40 adjustable objective scope and mount

Optics Features

• 3-9x magnification
• 40mm adjustable objective lens
• 1″ tube
• 30/30 reticle with fine crosshairs, perfect for target acquisition
• 40 ft to 12 ft field of view
• 3.5″ eye relief
• 21.6 oz
• 13.5″ long
• Fogproof
• Shockproof
• Wateproof
• Includes lens caps

Conclusion

So, is the Gamo Magnum the fastest air rifle on the market? Based on its advertised FPS, it certainly appears to be. However, there are other factors to consider when choosing an air rifle, such as power, accuracy, and user-friendliness. If you’re in the market for a new air rifle, be sure to do your research and choose the one that’s right for you.

For more on the best air rifles on the market, see this post

Hornady’s new 7mm PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge) is probably the best long-range 7mm cartridge ever introduced. As with all rifle cartridges, handloading tuned ammo for it helps achieve the best it has to offer. The 7mm PRC’s DNA is 100 percent long range. As such, loading highly aerodynamic bullets is recommended. The cartridge doesn’t offer any advantage with light 7mm bullets.

As spec’d by SAAMI, the 7mm PRC has a rifling twist rate of 1:8. This enables it to effectively stabilize the long-bodied, streamlined projectiles. Lead-core bullets of 168 grains ranging up to 195 grains and monometal bullets of 160 grains up to 168 grains provide optimal performance in the 7mm PRC. Examples are Barnes 168-grain LRX bullet; Berger 168-grain VLD Hunting, 180-grain VLD Hunting, and 195-grain Extreme Outer Limits Elite Hunter; and Hornady 160-grain CX, 175-grain ELD-X, 180-grain ELD Match and 190-grain A-Tip.

The 7mm PRC has a cartridge case design characteristic that affects handloading technique, particularly projectile seating. Like its 6.5 PRC and .300 PRC siblings, the 7mm PRC is engineered with a lot of head height. This allows long bullets with stretched-out, fine-entry noses to be seated well out of the case, so the bases don’t intrude into the powder reservoir. This is important, as you’ll see in a moment.

The parent case is the .375 Ruger, which is a non-belted case with quite parallel sides and relatively steep 30-degree shoulder angle. It’s actually a quarter-inch shorter than the classic 7mm Rem. Mag. and has less capacity when filled to the case mouth. The 7mm PRC case contains 82 grains of water; the 7mm Rem. Mag. contains 85 grains of water.

However, since you don’t have to seat long, heavy-for-caliber bullets deeply into the powder reservoir, loaded 7mm PRC cartridges actually have greater internal capacity than 7mm Rem. Mag. cartridges.

Overall 7mm PRC case length is 2.280 inches. Trim-to length is 2.260 inches. Overall maximum loaded cartridge length is 3.340 inches. This puts the 7mm PRC into the “standard .30-06” cartridge length category. As with every cartridge, if desired, handloaders may load to longer max length if their rifle’s magazines will allow it. SAAMI pressure limit is 65,000 psi.

Currently, cartridge cases are available only from Hornady. That’s not a problem, because the Hornady cases I’ve used in my testing and handloading and hunting with the 7mm PRC have been stellar.

If you want to milk every ounce of potential out of the 7mm PRC and your Hornady cases, trim them all to equal length, then weight-sort and neck turn them. You’ll end up with top-notch cases equal to any task.

My reloading dies are standard Hornady versions, and they’ve served very well. Presumably, other manufacturers such as RCBS and Redding will soon get on board, and we may see match-grade dies as well.

As nearly all propellant charges will be well north of the 60-grain threshhold compatibility with Large Rifle primers, it’s best to use Large Rifle Magnum primers. I’ve been using Federal 215 Gold Medal Match primers, and they’ve provided splendid consistency.

Data for the 7mm PRC are currently available on the Hornady reloading app. I developed the loads in the accompanying chart from early recommendations by Hornady technicians based on their lab work. They suggested Reloder 26 and H1000, with RL-26 being particularly magic.

However, at first I didn’t have any RL-26 on hand, so I started with H1000. To my delight, every load averaged less than three-quarters of an inch at 100 yards. Even with the relatively short 20-inch barrel on the Gunwerks Nexus test rifle, velocity was rather good.

Accuracy with Hornady’s 180-grain ELD Match bullets was eyebrow-raising, averaging 0.42 inch over a series of three-shot groups. This bullet has an incredibly good ballistic G1 coefficient of .796, and Hornady’s factory ammo is spec’d to generate about 2,950 fps in 26-inch barrels. That makes it one of the most capable extreme-range cartridges on the market.

Thanks to the 7mm PRC’s head height, handloaders will find it easy to finesse seating depth for best accuracy. Load thin-jacketed cup-and-core bullets to kiss the rifling. Load thick-jacketed bonded-core and monometal bullets 0.050 inch off the rifling leade so as to avoid pressure spikes, and tune from there. Generally, best results with such will be found between 0.020 and 0.100 inch off the leade.

As with all bottlenecked, centerfire cartridges fed from box magazines, there’s no need to crimp seated bullets. Just allow the neck tension to hold them in place.

For Idaho’s 2022 spring bear season, I loaded up a batch of 7mm PRC ammo using 150-grain Hornady CX bullets. My wife and two daughters proceeded to clobber three black bears with the 7mm PRC.

A few months later, the 160-grain CX was launched. My first try at working up a handload resulted in a load under half m.o.a., courtesy of RL-26. Clearly, the 7mm PRC is a well-behaved, inherently accurate cartridge that’s easy to handload for splendid results.

I haven’t yet experimented with a broad variety of projectiles by manufacturers other than Hornady. However, I’m looking forward to doing so.

Candidly, before learning the details of the 7mm PRC, I was a deep skeptic. I didn’t believe we had any use for another 7mm Magnum. After handloading and shooting and hunting with it, I’m a convert.

I experienced a powerful testimony of the cartridge’s right to exist at the SAAM shooting facility in Texas. Using a Remington 700 chambered in 7mm PRC, I shot steel targets all the way out to a mile. Then I put five consecutive 180-grain ELD Match bullets onto a 24×48-inch steel plate at 1,800 yards. I became a believer.

I now consider it the best 7mm magnum ever designed, and tuned handloads take it from splendid to spectacular.

WARNING: The loads shown here are safe only in the guns for which they were developed. Neither the author nor Outdoor Sportsman Group assumes any liability for accidents or injury resulting from the use or misuse of this data. Shooting reloads may void any warranty on your firearm.

We caught up with Jay Scott of Colburn and Scott Outfitters and learned about his well-earned success on the trickiest turkeys out there. He’s the host of the Jay Scott Outdoors Western Hunting & Fishing Podcast, but he is also a passionate hunter, angler, and big game guide.

Read on to learn about his relentless turkey hunting process and what it takes to get birds on the ground with his top spring turkey hunting tips and tricks.

Table of Contents:

Introduction 1. Better to Be Early Than Late 2. Carry More Calls Than You Need 3. Locator Calls Don’t Have to Be Perfect 4. Don’t Blow a Coyote Howler at Roosted Birds 5. Pinpoint Where They Roost 6. Tactics Once They’re on the Ground 7. Play Hard to Get! 8. Be Patient 9. Go for Round Two 10. Use the Roads to Your Advantage 11. Get As Close As You Can 12. Calling Cadence Outweighs Tone and Sound 13. Decoy Positioning SHOP THE FULL GEAR LIST

SPRING TURKEY HUNTING IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE SEASONS OF THE YEAR.

For many years as a beginner turkey hunter, I really struggled with calling birds into archery or shotgun range. I’ve been schooled by so many birds that it would seem silly for me to even write an article on bowhunting or shotgun hunting turkeys.

But like lots of other things in life, it seems that persistence usually pays off. I’ve been taught many things by veteran turkey hunters whom I have constantly bombarded with questions on the “Do’s and Don’ts” and “Tips & Tricks” of turkey hunting.

I’ve also learned a lot from trial and error with the turkeys themselves. I’m constantly learning something new about spring turkey hunting every day that I pursue them. One thing I’ve learned is that no two wild turkeys act the same but there are some turkey hunting tactics that can be repeated which will increase your odds of harvesting this magnificent animal.

I’ve attempted to outline some things to remember when chasing these weary longbeards. I hope that one of these turkey tactics will be something you can latch on to and incorporate into your turkey hunting routine.

1. BETTER TO BE EARLY THAN LATE

I always try to set my alarm 30 minutes earlier than my calculated time to get to the roost tree. Usually my alarm goes off around 3:00 AM during turkey season.

I like to be sitting in the dark waiting for the grey in the eastern sky and set up in my position at least 30 minutes before the first call of the hens or first gobble. It gives the woods some time to settle down after I just walked into the roosting area.

It also gives you time to go to plan B if something goes wrong prior to your setup. Another advantage to being early is usually that puts me ahead of other hunters. Being early will never work against you.

2. CARRY MORE CALLS THAN YOU NEED

It is good to have several diaphragms, slates, and box calls. Sometimes the birds will especially like one call or another. The worst feeling in the world is not having the right call.

Don’t be afraid to take a gobble call either (be very careful using the gobbler call on public land).

3. LOCATOR CALLS DON’T HAVE TO BE PERFECT

Locator calls such as coyote howler, owl hooter or peacock don’t have to sound exactly like the natural thing to be effective in getting birds to gobble in the roost.

Quite the contrary, I’ve found that my external reed coyote howler by Primos which does not sound near as natural or authentic as my diaphragm coyote yelp, seems to get more of a response by roosted gobblers.

Remember, you are looking for a shocking response so sometimes the worst shrieking noise you can make will be the best for getting a gobbler to answer.

4. DON’T BLOW A COYOTE HOWLER AT ROOSTED BIRDS

In the morning when you’re too close, the roosted male turkey might answer but they will be very leery to come into your hen yelps because they think a coyote is close and they don’t want to get eaten.

An owl hooter is a much better choice when you are close to the roosted bird. When I say close, I mean within 200 yards of a rooster gobbler.

5. PINPOINT WHERE THEY ROOST

When roosting a gobbler in the evening, make sure you try to pinpoint the exact tree that the gobbler is roosted in. Often, I will get them to shock gobble and then I will sneak in as close as possible.

I then plan my setup for the morning. Things to be looking for while pinpointing the exact tree are:

• easiest way into the setup since it will be pitch dark.• exactly which tree you want to be leaning against and set up under.• which way the bird will fly down.• which way the bird won’t go, etc.

I like to mark the spot where I will setup on my GPS and allow the breadcrumb feature to bring me right into the setup spot the following morning. Be careful not to let the roosted gobbler see your light on the GPS.

6. TACTICS ONCE THEY’RE ON THE GROUND

In the morning or afternoon, when the birds are already on the ground, and you are just prospecting for gobblers by walking ridges, if you get a gobbler to respond move as close to his position without being detected as you can.

Once in close to the gobbler (within 100 yards) set up and try to call again. This works way better than calling from the original position. Now, if you are moving towards his direction and he gobbles loudly and in your direction like he is coming immediately get setup.

7. PLAY HARD TO GET!

Make the gobbler want to come to you. If you get a bird gobbling sometimes just shutting up is the deadliest tactic. I like to fire them up and then shut up.

I usually let them gobble twice before I call again. Usually, they will come hard if you use this tactic. You may risk a bird walking off because you shut up but if they are halfway interested, they will be headed your way. This may be the single best bit of information I have learned over the years.

8. BE PATIENT

In the evenings be in the roost area and be patient. I like to get in areas that I know birds like to roost. I sit and call about every fifteen minutes. The last 30 minutes before fly-up is primetime. Let’s say it is 30 minutes before fly-up and you make a series of yelps and a gobbler answers off in the distance.

I might hit him right back with a series of excited cuts and then just shut up. More than likely he will come to inspect. If they come in but not in shooting range just sit still and watch they fly up into their roost trees. Then you can attack in the morning.

One thing to keep in mind while hunting Merriam’s turkeys is that they typically like to roost on a ridgeline or at least where there is a contour break. The birds like to walk uphill from their roost tree and then coast horizontally into the branch.

This tactic helps them conserve energy by less flying. Sometimes you can roost turkeys without hearing them gobble by just listening for the ruckus of their wings flapping when they fly up.

9. GO FOR ROUND TWO

When the evening hunt does not produce a roosted gobbler for the next morning. There are several options for the following early morning hunt.

Go into an area where you have heard gobblers before and sit tight. Listen at prime time for gobblers in the area. If you can move while it is still dark, then pursue them. If not, wait until they hit the ground and sneak in close to them.

10. USE THE ROADS TO YOUR ADVANTAGE

Another option is to cover as much country as possible in hopes of hearing a roosted bird. This can be done either on foot or in a vehicle.

Wake up extra early and drive to an area where you have seen or heard turkeys. Stop every half a mile and blow your peacock or coyote howler.

11. GET AS CLOSE AS YOU CAN

Always try and get as close to a gobbler before calling to him. If you spot a gobbler with your binoculars try and move in very close to him without being detected.

I will try to get within at least 100 yards or closer if the terrain and vegetation will allow prior to making my first call. Your success goes up tenfold if you practice this method.

12. CALLING CADENCE OUTWEIGHS TONE AND SOUND

The cadence of your calling is more important than the tone and sound of your call. This opinion is debatable but I noticed a big difference in my success when a friend of mine showed me the correct cadence to my hen yelps.

He told me I sounded decent, but my rhythm was off. As soon as I changed my rhythm and cadence it was like a light switched on and the gobblers became way more consistently responsive to my calling. The key is to listen to the hens and focus on the cadence or timing/rhythm of their call.

13. DECOY POSITIONING

Position your turkey decoys at a 45-degree angle from the hunter on the opposite side of where you think the gobbler will come in from. Decoys can be a huge asset if you use them correctly.

On the flip side, they can hurt you if they are positioned on the wrong side of where you want the birds to end up. An example of the correct way to set them up would be: If the gobbler answers your calls to your left it would be best to set the decoys out to your right about 25 yards.

In this case, the bird will come to your call but when he gets close, he will see the decoys and walk right by you (or the hunter) on the way to the decoys to your right.

Remember when the gobbler gets close to remain silent and very still because he will be really looking for the turkey he heard. He should then spot the decoys. You will then be able to have a clear shot as they focus on the decoys.

WRITTEN BY JAY SCOTT

• Host of Jay Scott Outdoors Hunting and Fishing Podcast with over 34.5 million downloads.
• Professional hunting guide for 24 years in Arizona and Old Mexico.
• Has harvested many trophies around the west, which include several animals that make the Pope and Young and Boone and Crockett record books.
• Learn more about what KUIU gear Jay Scott thinks is best for hunting turkeys in his turkey gear list.
• Visit Jay Scott’s Youtube to see him in action.
• Read more about the Gould’s Turkey, the least known subspecies of wild turkey.
• Shop KUIU’s top turkey hunting gear list for the spring and fall turkey seasons.
• Learn about turkey hunting camo and gear with more top turkey hunting picks for the active turkey hunter.