There are not many cartridges that can literally take down every big game animal in North America. The .338 Lapua Magnum is one of those rare rounds. While it was originally designed for military snipers and law enforcement, dedicated hunters have proven the .338 Lapua’s effectiveness on everything from whitetails and mule deer up to elk and even the large, lumbering bison. It’s all thanks to the nearly 4,000 pounds of energy delivered by 250-grain and larger bullets. As a long range hunting tool, it’s nearly unmated in terms of trajectory. It’s quite capable of extremely flat shooting at distances of 200 to 400 yards, allowing hunters to bag animals that previously would have walked away unharmed. Hearing all that, you might be surprised to hear the .338 Lapua has mostly a niche following these days. There are some very good reasons for that which we’ll dive more into later. The .338 Lapua may not be the round for everyone. But for many people it’s going to hit that perfect sweet spot. The right combination of speed, power, and long-distance ability that quite frankly leaves a lot of other hunting rifle cartridges in the dust in terms of performance. However, if you’re looking for a hard-hitting cartridge that can quite literally do it all in terms of big game here in North America, keep reading to learn more about this fascinating round.

.338 Lapua The Round

When compared to many other popular hunting rounds on the market today, the .338 Lapua is still something of a baby, as it was only developed in 1989. It does use a rather old cartridge, the .416 Rigby, as a parent case. The Lapua was born out of sniper rifle research in the early 1980s by companies like Research Armament Industries. Long story short, development started when the .416 Rigby was necked down for an 8.6mm (0.338-inch) bullet. Shortly after that, Finnish ammo manufacturer Lapua teamed up with SAKO and British gunmaker Accuracy International to perfect what we know today as the .338 Lapua Magnum. Most notably, Lapua greatly increased the case strength to handle the enormous pressure inside. The first Lapua rounds were designed with bullets that were full metal jacket. This was originally designed for military sniper rifles, after all.

Today, ammo options are still somewhat limited, especially for hunters. However, the ballistics speak for themselves. Hornady manufactures a factory round in their ELD-X Precision Hunter line that has a 2,800-fps muzzle velocity. That’s with a 270-grain bullet! It’s pumping out about 4,699-foot pounds of muzzle energy. Hornady says this round has zero drop at 200 yards from a 24-inch test barrel. At that distance, it’s still doing 2,562-fps and can deliver 3,935-foot pounds of energy. Hornady also offers a 285-grain bullet for competition in their Match Grade line which is doing 2,745-fps at the muzzle and is dishing out about 4,768-foot pounds of energy.

Lapua makes several types of factory ammo today with similar ballistics. The 231-grain Naturalis is a good example of a quality hunting round. Lapua says it has zero drop at 100 yards and is travelling about 3,018-fps at the muzzle and is hitting with about 4,681-foot pounds of energy. We could go on and on, but it should be obvious now that this round has some serious speed and stopping power for hunting.

Disadvantages of the .338 Lapua Magnum

If this is your first time reading about the .338 Lapua, you are probably thinking there’s got to be a catch with this round, and you’d be right. There are several. For one, there’s tremendous recoil, as you might expect when using such large casings and bullets. Because of the power and recoil, many firearms manufacturers need to make the guns heavier to compensate. If you’re looking for a precision rifle package, you can expect it to weigh anywhere from 11 to 12 pounds. That’s fine for long range shooting at the range, but almost unusable in the field for hunting. You will find a few die-hards who will tote guns like that into the deer woods, but personally, I’d never try it. Manufacturers have managed to do some amazing things with the designs of .338 Lapua rifles in recent years, but you’re going to be hard pressed to find one under eight pounds.

The second drawback is the cost, both for the rifles themselves and the ammunition. If you’re looking for something under $1,000, the .338 Lapua may not be for you. The lower end rifles seem to start around the $1,200 range and they only go up in price from there. Some higher end .338s sell for $5,000 or more.

And then there’s the factory ammo. That Hornady Match Grade we mentioned earlier? We found it online going for about $120 a box, or nearly $6 a round. Even Federal Premium’s American Eagle line of jacketed soft points goes for nearly $70 for a box of only twenty rounds. If you’re not into handloading when you start shooting .338 Lapua, odds are you’ll get into it quickly, if only to keep from burning a hole through your wallet.

There are other disadvantages, such as a lack of ranges reaching out to 1,000 yards and more, which is what this rifle likes, but most people get more hung up on the rifle and ammo costs. We cannot blame them. It’s one of the main reasons the .338 Lapua remains something of a niche. If you haven’t been scared away yet, let’s look at some of the hunting rifle options on the market today in this awesome round.

Savage Arms 110 Long Range Hunter

If you are planning on seriously going into the backcountry of North America hunting with the .338, the 110 is a great gun to consider. At 8.8 pounds, Savage Arms has done an excellent job of cutting the weight down to where it’s manageable for hiking up and down hills and mountains in pursuit of game. It probably still won’t be comfortable, but the trade-off is that you’ll be able to reach out further than other hunters. It has a 26-inch carbon steel barrel with a 1:9 twist rate and a muzzle brake to help tame the recoil a bit. This rifle also does ergonomics well due to the signature Savage AccuFit system to adjust things like length of pull and comb height. These small creature comforts go a long way towards comfort on a rifle that has a 49.5-inch overall length. This centerfire bolt action can usually be found for about $1,300 new from most major retailers.

Christensen Arms Traverse

High end rifle manufacturer Christensen Arms has been doing some exciting things, specifically trying to build better stocks for bolt action rifles in recent years. As a result, they’ve really reduced the weight factor on this selection. The Traverse may be the lightest .338 Lapua on the market at 7.7 pounds. Much of that is thanks to the carbon fiber Monte Carlo stock. We like this one for anyone planning a remote hunt 10 to 20 miles from the nearest road where you need firepower without being weighed down too much. It’s also well suited for the elements thanks to a 27-inch, 416R stainless steel barrel wrapped in Aerograde carbon fiber. It also features a removable muzzle brake to help with the recoil. Another thing we like about the Traverse is that M16-style extractor with a slightly larger ejection port. It helps this rifle cycle smoother than some of the other offerings on the market. It’s not cheap; you’re looking at about $2,500 for a Traverse, but you can head into the field confident you’ve got one of the best long range rifles out there right now.

Weatherby Mark V Accumark

For the hunter looking for a .338 Lapua Magnum rifle that’s as accurate as it is functional in the field, it’s hard to go wrong with a Weatherby Mark V. They gave this rifle a 28-inch barrel with a 1:9.3 rate of twist. They also fluted the barrel, which helps cut the weight of this rifle down to 8.3 pounds. The barrel, receiver, bolt, knob, and safety have also been given a black Cerakote finish. That’s going to make it perfect for the rain and snow common at high altitudes. We like this one for anyone seeking accuracy for two reasons. One, Weatherby rifles guarantee a sub-MOA group at 100 yards using factory ammo. And two, it’s got an extremely short 54-degree bolt throw that makes for a faster and cleaner follow-up shot when inches count. Not that you’re likely to need another shot with a round like this, but it’s a little extra peace of mind when pursuing more dangerous game animals. It can be found for about $1,800 from most major retailers.

Christensen Arms Mesa Long Range

If you are fine with a little extra weight, the Mesa is a great option for a slightly lower $1,600 price tag than the Traverse we mentioned earlier. We like this one for anyone hunting more flat lands where you’re going to have more chances at distances out to 400 yards or more. The barrel length of the Mesa is 27 inches and you’re looking at a 1:9.3 rate of twist. This free-floating barrel should handle the rain and snow well because it’s made from 416R stainless steel. The muzzle is also threaded, and it comes standard with a muzzle brake. Christensen Arms backs this rifle with a sub-MOA accuracy guarantee, too. The stock has spacers to adjust both the length of pull and the comb, so there’s some nice customizing of the ergonomics. This rifle comes in at 10 pounds. That’s heavy, but not to the point where it’s completely unwieldy in the field. But, you’ll still want to eat your Wheaties in the morning before hiking any mountains with it.

Savage Arms 110 Precision

We know precision rifles are not often used for hunting, but this is one where you can make it work. We’d recommend it more for long distance hunting from an elevated position than an intense spot and stalk through the brush and up the hills. The 11-pound weight is just light enough to make it doable if you’re determined enough. Savage fluted the barrel of the 110 Precision and skeletonized as much of the stock as possible to make this one of the lighter .338 Lapua Mag precision rifles on the market. This rifle has a 24-inch carbon steel barrel with a 1:9.3 rate of twist and is threaded with a BA muzzle brake installed to help with the recoil. Another reason we like this one is simply because they include their crisp and adjustable AccuTrigger system that allows each shooter to adjust between a 1.5 and 4-pound trigger pull based on his or her preferences. At $1,500, it’s also rather affordable for a precision rifle.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and Instagram For original videos, check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

READ MORE: 338 WINCHESTER MAGNUM: THE POWERFUL BIG GAME ROUND AND 5 RIFLES CHAMBERED FOR IT

By Adam Parr

For the past few years, I’ve struggled to find elk antlers in the mountains of Colorado and quickly became frustrated with the lack of my success. One consistency I’ve come to realize over the past two seasons is that elk shed hunting is simply a different ball game. Comparatively to both whitetails and mule deer, elk antlers always seemed to elude me while deer antlers were relatively easy to find.

The entire purpose of my blog is to document my findings as I embrace a new lifestyle in a much more extreme terrain and environment. With that being said, I believe any midwestern whitetail hunter can have success in their first season shed hunting for mule deer because a lot of the same principles apply. Mule deer are found at lower elevations during the winter months, making them easier to pattern and are easily accessible. They seem to hold more of a consistent pattern for longer periods of time, while an elk herd has a much larger range and can be found in a completely different area from one day to the next.

Below are a few tips to help shorten your elk shed hunting learning curve and to get you on the fast track to finding brown gold!

Get Higher

No, I’m not making a 420 reference here; I’m talking elevation. As a general rule of thumb, the majority of mature bulls are going to be found at higher elevations than the smaller bulls and cows. Although mule deer and elk wintering areas will have some cross-over, most of the lower elevation elk sign will be cows and young bulls.

In areas of extreme snowfall and harsh winter conditions, even the herd bulls will get pushed down to lower elevations out of necessity to survive. The key thing to remember is that elk typically shed their antlers much later in the Spring than deer, so it is important to pay attention to snow accumulation. This past Winter, snowfall was heavy in December, January, and February but March and April were mild with very little accumulation. A mild Spring caused the elk to move back up to higher areas of the mountains during the time that the majority of shedding occurs.

Locate Secluded Basins

The key word here is seclusion. Bigger bulls and elk in general, prefer seclusion and will not tolerate human interaction, which is why you also find them at higher elevations. A great way to locate these areas is through the use of Google Earth, which shows the terrain features from a birds-eye view before ever stepping foot on the ground. Looking at maps prior to entering an area lets you visualize the terrain without wasting time and energy scouring areas that are unproductive.

Mule deer and cow elk will be found closer to roads and human traffic, but don’t be fooled by these visuals. Bull elk are seeking solidarity out of eyesight over the next mountain top.

Go Where The Grass Is

Much like livestock and cattle, elk require an average of 20 pounds of grass and browse vegetation to sustain themselves through a harsh Winter so it’s imperative to locate food. These large grassy meadows, which are predominately found on South facing slopes can be easily identified, once again from Google Earth. By keeping this information in mind, it will help you locate potential feeding areas that elk will utilize on a regular basis.

No matter how good a secluded basin looks at a high elevation, if it doesn’t have a plentiful amount of food, the elk will be nowhere in sight. This seems like common sense to many people but this is something I struggled with early on and I wasted a lot of hours searching areas that did not hold bulls or any elk, for that matter.

The Trifecta

If you want to start having serious success with elk sheds, locate the ultimate elk wintering area; A secluded basin, with an abundance of food at high-elevation. Once you find an area like this, the probability of it being a great spot year after year will be high. For some added advice, be sure to check out this quick video from Mark Kayser, Tips For Finding Elk Shed Antlers.

It is also important to be in very good physical shape if you want to attempt getting into secluded areas of elk country. The terrain is tough, the air is thin and the distance is far, but If you are willing to put in the work, shed antler success will follow.

For additional shed hunting tips and helpful information, be sure to check out 4 New School Tips For The Beginner Colorado Shed Hunter. Happy shed hunting!

People have used canine hunting companions since the first wolf nervously took a slice of meat from an ancient human hand. Deer hunting with dogs is a natural extension of that aboriginal relationship.

Still, modern hunters have mixed feelings about the practice. Some are ardent supporters of the method. Others consider it unfair and outdated. Let’s take a look at the history of deer hunting with dogs and why hunters are often so divided on the issue today.

A Rich Hunting History

Ancient cave paintings show images of dogs and humans hunting together, and when European settlers reached North America in the early 17th century, they brought their hunting dogs with them. Historians believe the first pack of hunting dogs in the American colonies was owned and hunted by Robert Brooke of Maryland as early as 1650.

In Europe, hunting was a pursuit exclusive to the wealthy ruling class. However, once colonists crossed the pond, hunting became a common man’s pastime that was essential for putting food on the family dinner table.

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How Hunting Deer With Dogs Works

Although a solo hunter can tramp through the woods with a dog and shoot whitetails on the jump, most dog hunting (a term that doesn’t at all infer shooting dogs, but rather refers to the practice of using hounds to jump and chase whitetail deer) happens in groups.

A group of hunters (or “standers”) surrounds a piece of property before the dog handlers (usually called “dog drivers”) release hounds onto the parcel. The drivers and their dogs work toward the standers until they either jump a deer or pick up a fresh scent.

A good jump dog will squall when he’s on a track, and the rest of the pack will chime in like a chorus. There are few things more adrenaline-thumping than the braying of hot hounds echoing through thick woods, especially when that sound is hastily heading your way.

Experience usually influences the exact positions of the standers. Many hunt clubs use the same blocks of land, sometimes for generations, for so long that hunters know the deer’s preferred escape routes. Those spots will be either numbered or named, and hunters draw for a stand or grab them on a first-come-first-serve basis to cut off the deer as they try to evade the dogs.

RELATED – A Big Buck Expert on Deer Hunting in the Rain

Is It Fair Chase or Not?

One reason hunting deer with dogs is so controversial is because some think the practice unfairly swings the odds in the hunters’ favor.

It’s true to an extent. Dogs will flush deer off their noonday beds and bust them out of swampland so thick that most humans wouldn’t dare venture into it, even with snake boots and brush chaps. When deer turn nocturnal in the late season, dogs often provide hunters the only chance of glimpsing big bucks bent on tucking in until nightfall.

However, both the Boone and Crockett and Pope and Young record books, which have detailed rules of fair chase, recognize bucks taken in front of dogs in states where the practice is not prohibited.

Anyone who thinks deer hunting with dogs is “cheating” seriously underestimates whitetail deer’s intelligence and wily survival instincts. Every hunter with deer dog experience has a story of a whitetail that “gave the dogs the slip.”

Deer in areas with active hunting clubs and trained dogs seem to pick up “dog smarts” early on. Whitetails chased by piles of canines learn how to trick the hounds as a matter of survival. They probably picked up the skills from Mom.

I once watched a big mammy doe and her button-head fawn hoodwink some hounds during the Virginia bucks-only season. I saw them trot across a dirt road well ahead of a braying tussle of dogs. A full minute later, both deer sailed back across the path straight in the direction of the approaching pack. Not so much as a whiff of a hoof touching the lane. Not 30 seconds later, the dogs came through hot, wailing and yapping their way across the path in the same spot the two deer had initially crossed. Unlike the deer that had circled back, the dogs kept going. Eventually, their yowls grew slower, less sure, and spaced apart. They’d lost both deer.

It’s what Terry Jones calls “the old double-back trick.” Jones was a dog driver for decades before he was elected huntmaster for Bacon’s Castle Hunt Club, one of the oldest clubs in Virginia that encourages deer hunting with dogs.

“I’ve seen that one more times than I can count,” Jones told Free Range American. “It’s harder than anybody thinks it is to kill a deer in front of a dog. The deer learn the tricks because if they don’t learn, they don’t make it to the next hunting season.”

Successfully shooting a deer running for his life is no easy feat. Shot opportunities in front of dogs rarely last more than seconds and almost always involve a fast-moving target. Wounded deer are an unfortunate part of the process.

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The Southern Tradition of Deer Hunting With Dogs

While deer hunting with dogs was once a fairly common practice across the U.S., the practice is dwindling. Most states have laws that either severely restrict or outright ban the use of dogs to hunt deer.

The Deep South, known for holding tight to tradition, is the last haven for dog hunters. Florida, Mississippi, Louisiana, Alabama, Arkansas, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia are the only states where hunters can use dogs during deer hunting season.

Whether you agree or disagree with the use of deer dogs largely depends on where you call home.

Dog hunting in the South intertwines with southern identity, woven into the fabric of Southern culture, and a porch-sitting deerhound is as much a Southern icon as tobacco fields and southern drawls. For many Southerners, asking them to give up their deer dogs is like asking them to quit grits cold turkey. It just ain’t happening.

Some folks consider hunting whitetails over bait unethical. However, there are plenty of areas where the practice is perfectly legal, and a good number of deer hunters fill their tags over a pile of corn without feeling an ounce of guilt.

Hunting with dogs is the same way.

Hunting culture is an awful lot like culture in general — the practices we grew up with are generally considered acceptable. I was raised in the South, which explains my affinity for sweet tea, my overuse of the words “y’all” and “yonder,” and why I have no beef with dog hunters.

RELATED – How To Make the Most of a 2-Day North Dakota Deer Hunting Trip

Drawing the Line

Deer seldom pay attention to property lines, and neither do dogs. While responsible hunters will respect them, dogs don’t understand arbitrary boundaries and will blow right past a posted sign when they’re hot on a trail.

According to the Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries, hound hunts for deer historically took place on “farms with contiguous areas in excess of 20,000 acres.” Modern hunt clubs in the Old Dominion typically have access to smaller fragmented parcels.

As large swaths of rural farmland are carved into smaller plots, managing and containing a group of scent-drunk hounds inside invisible borders is practically impossible.

Most modern hunters keep track of their deer dogs with pricey GPS collars. However, many property owners frown upon crossing onto private property to retrieve their hounds.

“Today, dog hunting is so high-tech. With tracking collars and GPS, every dog driver is watching his dogs go through the woods on a screen on his dashboard,” Jones said. “We used to lose dogs or spend days looking for them, but with the new technology, the guys can see the dogs heading towards the roads or pieces of private property and then cut them off before they get there.”

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What Breeds Are Used to Hunt Deer

You’re most likely to find hound breeds with hot noses and a strong prey drive, thrumming with electric anticipation in a truckbed dog box on any given weekend of whitetail deer season in the South. Most are treeing walkers, foxhounds, blueticks, beagles, or some mongrelized combination of all four.

Hunting with dogs is an intimate affair, and dog drivers sometimes understand their hounds better than their wives. A good handler can pick out each individual voice in a bawl-and-chop chorus, and he can tell by the pitch and rhythm of the song whether that dog is running hot or following a cold trail.

A good number of hunters bond with their hounds like they bond with their hunting buddies, building relationships in the field that can’t be duplicated anywhere else.

Old-timers tell tales of their best-running hounds long after those companions lie cold in a grave, the dogs who “could run a two-day trail” or “would run a deer three counties over without falling off.” They tell the stories with affection and a sense of deep respect that borders on awe.

Those relationships, with both the hounds and the hunters, are why seasoned sportsmen like Jones stick with dog hunting.

“I stay at Bacon’s Castle for one reason: dog hunting,” Jones said. “Because I love it; I love hearing the dogs run, and I love the camaraderie, plain and simple.”

RELATED – Whitetail Institute: The Staying Power of the Food Plot King

Young Hunters

I used my daddy’s Remington Wingmaster to shoot my first deer in front of two loudmouthed Virginia beagles named Herman and Big Girl. I was 12 and wiggly, with an attention span that would make a goldfish seem focused in comparison. Both of my sons also shot their first deer in front of dogs.

Young hunters often have a hard time sitting still and quiet long enough to see the game, but dog hunting can be an exciting introduction to the sport.

The fast pace of the hunt and the dogs’ excitement work well for the short attention spans of some young hunters. And hooking youngsters on the sport is crucial as deer populations rise and hunter numbers decline.

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Deer Dogs Under Attack

Although hunting deer with dogs is a long-standing tradition, it certainly doesn’t appeal to everyone, which is apparent in the historic chipping away of the practice spanning almost 300 years.

The Virginia House of Burgesses passed the first deer dog restrictions in 1738, requiring owners to confine their canines except when hunting deer.

In 1876, Wisconsin was the first state to ban deer hunting with dogs completely. By 1920, every state not below the Mason-Dixon line had outlawed deer hunting with dogs.

As dog hunting makes its last stand in the Deep South, not all Southerners are keen on the practice. A 2015 survey of North Carolina hunters indicated that 46% of more than 5,000 deer hunters questioned believed dog hunting should be illegal.

Interestingly, most hunters opposed to the practice had never hunted with dogs.

Perhaps because once you’ve heard a choir of deer dogs singing their way up a river bottom, you’ll be hooked for life.

READ NEXT – Learn About the Gestation Period for Whitetail Deer To Kill Bucks

Below we review the best spotting scopes for birding and wildlife viewing for 2024 by price range:

• Super-Budget (Under $200)
• Budget (Under $500)
• Semi-Budget ($500-$1,000)
• Mid-Priced ($1,000-$2,000)
• Best of the Best (over $2,000)

Don’t Get a Spotting Spotting Scope for Less Than $100!

Just one thing before we proceed…

I plead with you not to buy a spotting scope for birding/wildlife viewing that is priced less than $100.

They will cause you eye strain and even worse, severe frustration.

Cheap scopes may be good for looking at an elephant 100 yards away or to see your 22 cal bullet holes in your paper target at the range, but they are not made for bird watching.

You’re better off just looking through your binoculars than using such a scope.

One exception would be for someone who just wants to look at backyard birds from their deck and/or take photos of them and doesn’t want to hold binoculars.

Good. Now that I got that off my chest, we can proceed.

Straight or Angled?

Most of the scopes listed below come in both angled and straight models.

Its up to you and the kind of viewing you mostly do.

Click here for reviewing the pros and cons of Angled or Straight bird watching spotting scopes.

Also, most scope models are available in several different objective lens sizes. It all depends on your personal needs.

Click here to review objective lens sizes for bird watching spotting scopes.

Best Super-Budget Spotting Scope (Under $200)

Celestron 80mm Ultima Zoom Spotting Scope

The Celestron Ultima Zoom Spotting Scope is an refractor-style scope with an 80mm objective lens with built-in zoom from 20x-60x.

It comes in both straight and angled designs (see all listings below).

If you want an entry-level scope, this is a very good choice.

The only drawback is that the scope does not have the more expensive ED glass which helps prevent blue fringing at the higher magnification.

• Multi-coated optics
• Waterproof
• Eyecup can be removed to attach a camera on standard T-Thread
• 45 degree angled eyepiece supports shorter tripod if needed
• Lightweight at 3.6 pounds
• Comes with padded carrying case that has access zippers on both ends of scope so you can use the scope without removing the case

The Celestron Ultima also has other options available such as a 65mm (cheaper) and 100mm (more expensive) objective lens and also comes in both angled and straight models for each of the sizes.

Objective Lens Size

The bigger the objective lens, the greater the light-gathering capacity of the scope, but it also increases the weight.

If you do a lot of low-light birding (i.e., at dawn and dusk, in cloudy locations, etc.) then you may want to get the 100mm size.

But for most conditions, the 80mm will be plenty. We wouldn’t recommend getting the 65mm in this scope since this is a lower-end scope without premium optics.

Also, Celestron states “The Ultima 80 mm offers a step up in aperture from the 65 mm, offering 50% brighter images.” 50% is quite significant and I think worth the extra cost.

You can review more about objective lens sizes here.

And again, if you’re not sure if you want a straight or angled scope, read our quick tips here about choosing scope body design.

-> View the Celestron Ultima Spotting Scope

Here are all the Celestron Ultima model choices in angled and straight bodies with either the 80mm or 100mm objective lens.

Best Budget Spotting Scope (Under $500)

Vortex Diamondback 20-60×80 Spotting Scope

The Diamondback is an exceptional scope at this price point. It is Vortex’s lowest-price model compared to the Viper HD and Razor HD spotting scopes.

The Vortex Diamondback line comes in both straight and angled models in both 60 mm and 80 mm objective lens sizes.

It is a full-sized scope in a compact design, weighing less than most spotting scopes in this size at only 33.8 oz and 47.1 oz for the 60 mm and 80 mm lenses, respectively.

We recommend the 80mm lens which will always give you that added brightness edge, especially valued in low-light conditions.

And not for nothing, we really love the view-through case that actually is easy to use and view-through because of its generous-fitting design.

• Full XR multicoated optics
• Dielectric prism coatings for improved brightness
• ArmorTek scratch-resistant coating
• O-ring sealed and nitrogen-purged – waterproof and fogproof

We also love Vortex’s Warranty:

~Vortex VIP Warranty~

Lifetime. Unlimited. Unconditional.

Vortex will repair or replace the product in the event it becomes damaged or defective.

Absolutely free—no matter the cause!

-> View Vortex Diamondback HD Spotting Scope

Vanguard Endeavor HD 20-60x65mm Spotting Scope

The Vanguard Endeavor HD Spotting Scope is an amazing bird watching scope for its size and price in the under $500 price range.

Birders have been impressed with this one and love that it’s light and compact for on-the-go birding adventures.

Features include:

• ED Extra-Low dispersion glass virtually eliminates color fringing
• Fully multi-coated optical system with improved coatings gives high light transmission rate
• Rubber armored magnesium housing for lightweight and durability
• Retractable sunshade with peep sight
• Eyepiece and deluxe scope coat included
• Fully waterproof (submersible) and fog proof – nitrogen filled body & eyepiece
• Phase coated Bak4 prisms for high resolution
• Detachable eyepiece with 20-60x zoom with retractable eyecup and up to 20mm of eye relief
• Available digiscoping adapter allows use of the scope as a super telephoto lens

65mm or 82mm Objective Lens?

The Vanguard Endeavor comes in both 65mm and 82mm sizes.

Unless you plan to do a lot of digiscoping or will often be in low-light conditions, we think the 65mm objective lens is suitable for most birding situations, especially with the ED and multi-coated glass.

This smaller lens and resulting lighter weight will also be appreciated by those who plan to carry it a lot.

-> View the Vanguard Endeavor HD Scope

Best Semi-Budget Spotting Scope ($500-$1,000)

Celestron Regal M2 20-60x80ED Spotting Scope

If you can afford a $500+ scope, the Celestron Regal M2 80ED Spotting Scope is well worth the investment with ED glass, XLT multi-coated optics, and a magnesium alloy lightweight, yet very durable body.

• Extra-Low Dispersion (ED) glass minimizes chromatic aberration, increases resolution and contrast, and provides color fidelity
• Proprietary XLT (Fully Mulit-Coated) lens coatings maximize light transmission for bright, sharp images
• Magnesium allow body – lightweight yet strong – decreases overall weight by 14% compared to previous model
• Fully waterproof and nitrogen purged to prevent fogging
• Upgraded dual focus mechanism – can focus on objects 2x faster
• T-Ring and T-Adapter for attaching your camera for digiscoping

Celestron Regal M2 80ED Spotting Scope Overview

-> View the Celestron Regal MD 80ED Spotting Scope

Best Mid-Priced Spotting Scope ($1,000-$2,000)

Vortex 20-60×85 Razor HD Spotting Scope

The Vortex 20-60×85 Razor HD Angled Spotting Scope is a high-quality bird watching spotting scope and an excellent value at that in this price range.

• Premium Extra-Low Dispersion (ED) glass for exceptional viewing in low light conditions.
• Ultra-hard coated Armor Tek protects exterior lenses from scratches, oil and dirt
• Dielectric prism coatings provide the clearest, brightest, most color-accurate images
• Proprietary XR anti-reflective coatings increase light transmissions for maximum brightness
• Triplet apochromatic lens reduces chromatic aberration.
• Porro prism offers maximum image quality and performance
• Waterproof O-ring sealed optics keeps out dust and debris
• Fogproof – argon gas purged

-> View the Vortex Razor HD Scope

Best of the Best Spotting Scope (over $2,000)

Kowa TSN-800 Series Prominar Pure Fluorite Spotting Scope

The Kowa TSN-800 Series is one of the best bird watching spotting scopes money can buy.

The TSN-883 is the angled body model, TSN-884 is the straight body model.

Crystal clear clarity from Kowa’s unique Prominar pure fluorite crystal lenses is just the beginning.

• The combination of the ultra-low dispersion pure fluorite crystal paired with a concave lens provides stunningly bright razor sharp images, minimizing chromatic aberrations (color fringing), image fuzziness and extended twilight and low light performance
• Dual Focus: Quick & Fine focusing. Quick will focus from infinity to five meters in 2 revolutions. Fine is smooth with pinpoint accuracy for high magnification adjustments and for digiscoping
• Lightweight, compact design – the highly achromatized objective lens makes the scope as compact a 60mm scope without sacrificing performance
• Waterproof to JIS 7 protection class 7 (protects against effects of temporary immersion in water – aka, “Oops!” protection) and nitrogen purged to prevent fogging
• 3 eyepieces available: TE-11WZ (25-60x, wide zoom), TE-17W (30x, wide) TE-20H (25x, LER – long eye relief). There is an eyepiece locking mechanism to prevent accidental release. Note that the TE-11WZ has replaced the older TE-10Z (20-60x, zoom) model.

Kowa TSN-883 (Angled) and TSN-884 (Straight) Spotting Scopes Overview

Kowa TE-11WZ (25-60x, wide zoom) Eyepiece (Replaced TE-10Z)

Digiscoping with the Kowa TSN-883 Spotting Scope and TE-11WZ 25-60x Wide Angle Eyepiece

The stills and video below were shot using a Panasonic GH4 Micro Four Thirds 4K Camera.

The Kowa TSN-DA10 Micro Four Thirds Digiscoping System

The Kowa TSN-DA10 digiscoping adapter is made for Micro Four Thirds camera system bodies and Micro Four Third compact lenses up to 25mm focal length (full size) (50mm MFT equivalent) and can be combined with the Kowa TE-11WZ eyepiece.

• Set-up is simple (takes less than a minute) and you can easily switch between landscape and portrait positioning as well as quickly slide the adapter off for normal observation.
• The DA10 fits lenses with a 43mm filter thread. If your lens has a different size filter – simply add one of our adapter rings – AR28/30/30.5/37/43/46/52/55/58/62/72mm between your lens and the DA10.
• All camera functions remain including camera lens auto-focus and focus peaking.

Digiscoping with the Kowa TSN-883 Spotting Scope and iPhone 6S 4K Video

Even an iPhone delivers stunning footage and photographs through the Kowa-TSN 883.

Kowa TSN-800 Series Cost: $$$….

Seeing your life-bird as a crystal-clear, razor-sharp image, even in low light… Priceless!

-> View the Kowa-TSN 883/884 Prominar Spotting Scope

Recap

Below in the product widget are all of the best spotting scopes for birding (as well as for other outdoor wildlife viewing) in the 5 price ranges: Super-Budget, Budget, Semi-Budget, Mid-Priced and Best of the Best.

We also listed the Nikon Prostaff 5 Proscope 20-60×82 in the Semi-Budget range as a good second choice in that category. We have found that Amazon typically has the best prices, including shipping which is usually free.

Our overall advice: Buy the best spotting scope you can afford.

***NOTE: The Alpen Scopes are no longer available due to the company going out of business.***

→Our new pick in this price range is the Vortex Diamondback 20-60×80 Spotting Scope as noted above.

Or jump to the Semi-Budget Spotting Scope category.

Bird Watching Spotting Scopes FAQs

Is an Angled or Straight Spotting Scope Better?

It depends how you will primarily be using your spotting scope.

If you will be using your scope to spot things above the horizon, then looking into an angled cope will be more accomodating.

It’s also easier for groups of people of varying heights to use an angled scope.

However, a straight spotting scope can be easier to spot and follow moving objects and to use from an elevated position or when mounted on a car window. Angled vs straight spotting scopes.

What do Spotting Scope Numbers Mean?

A 20-60×80 spotting scope has a magnification range between 20-60 with a 80mm objective lens.

Larger spotting scope objective lenses provide more light, but will be heavier and more expensive.

In the next section below, we discuss these features in detail.

How Do I Choose a Spotting Scope?

In deciding how to choose a spotting scope, you should consider magnification, objective lens and exit pupil size, eyepieces, FOV, optical and body design, eye relief, focus mechanism, close focus distance, glass/prism quality, and weatherproofness.

Are Spotting Scopes Better than Binoculars?

No, they serve different functions.

Simply, if you want to see details on birds or other wildlife or any types of objects from a long distance, especially in low-light conditions, a spotting scope will give you an advantage over binoculars, unless you use high-powered binoculars that are either image-stabilized or with a tripod to help provide a steady image.

How do I choose a spotting scope for birding and other wildlife viewing?

Get a bird watching spotting scope that has at least an objective lens size of 60mm which will allow enough light to enter the scope, especially during low-light conditions.

If you want to take photos through your scope (Digiscoping), you may want a bigger ojective lense (85mm and up).

Most birders like a variable zoom lens (i.e., 20-60) vs a fixed magnification.

Best travel scope for birding?

If you are looking to get a more compact spotting scope for birding while traveling, the Celestron Hummingbird 9-27x56mm ED Micro Spotting Scope is a good choice weighing only 1.43 pounds and small enough to be carried in a coat pocket.

How to Choose a Spotting Scope

What are the best spotting scopes for birding and wildlife viewing?

Scopes can range in price from $200 to $2,000. So what’s the difference between a cheap scope and an expensive one?

Let’s start with the basics and then define and compare the different features of spotting scopes to help you decide on a purchase.

To help you with your purchase, we will discuss the following spotting scope features:

• Magnification
• Objective lens size
• Exit pupil size
• Eyepieces
• Field of view
• Optical design
• Body design
• Eye relief
• Focus mechanism
• Close focus
• Weatherproofness and
• Glass/prism quality

What is a spotting scope?

A spotting scope is a terrestrial telescope, compact and portable, designed for observing objects on or near the earth (as opposed to astronomy viewing).

Spotting scopes are essentially telescopes designed for birding or other nature observation.

How is a spotting scope different than an astronomy telescope?

A spotting scope typically has lower magnification, a wider field of view, is easily portable, field-durable and its prism provides a correctly oriented image.

Often, astronomy telescope images are upside down and reversed (mirror-image). No problem with stars, bad with birds.

It’s hard enough to ID right-side up birds. And a mirror image will just mess with your mind.

Try following a bird that looks like its moving right, when in reality it’s moving left.

Astronomy telescopes are typically designed with a longer focal length for higher magnifications, but smaller fields of view.

In birding, we don’t need astronomy-level magnification (100x+).

We like to see the details on the bird, but don’t need to see every hamuli of a feather.

And the wider field of view on spotting scopes is definitely an advantage for “spotting” the bird in the first place.

Conclusions:A good astronomy telescope won’t be good for bird watching and a birding scope won’t be good for astronomy.

You can certainly use your spotting scope to look at the night sky (good for Moon and stars), but if you really want to see spectacular details, then get an astronomy telescope. If you’re getting a telescope primarily for birding, get a spotting scope.

Why get a spotting scope? What are the advantages over binoculars?

Spotting scopes are for long-distance bird watching. They provide the magnification necessary to see distant birds and to admire details at closer ranges. They provide the means to identify birds beyond the reach of your binoculars.

Under low light conditions, scopes will give you a brighter, clearer image and the magnification needed to see more details.

All birding scopes will have a mounting plate to attach a tripod for stabilization at these higher magnifications.

There are times when your 7x-10x binoculars cannot get you close enough to see what you want.

It may be because you simply can’t get close enough with your binoculars such as viewing waterfowl in a lake, shorebirds in the mudflats, or cliff-nesting birds. Or perhaps you want a closer look, but don’t want to disturb the bird, especially sensitive species, say on a nest.

Or in open spaces, when trying to get close enough with binoculars will scare them away. With a spotting scope, you can admire birds from a distance.

Personally, we use spotting scopes often during the field season to make observations of nesting Golden Eagles and Prairie Falcons.

Many times we don’t even get out of the vehicle, but rather use a window mount to observe. We simply would not be able to observe certain adult and chick behaviors without a scope.

It’s also nice to have a spotting scope when birding in groups so that everyone can get a closer look. It’s a great way to share bird watching with beginners, especially young birders.

You can also record images and video with a spotting scope with either a regular telephoto 35mm camera, digital camera and/or video camera (see digiscoping).

Spotting Scope Features to Consider Before Purchasing

Magnification

In general, a good magnification range for your bird watching spotting scope is between 15-60x.

Below 15x, you might as well use your binoculars.

Above 60x, the field of view becomes too narrow and image brightness begins to dim, especially a problem in low light conditions.

Most often, 20-40x gives both the best field of view and image brightness for bird watching.

A point to remember: The higher the magnification, the larger the objective lens is needed to maintain image quality.

Additionally, any distortions (heat waves) or scope movement (tripod tremors) will be intensified at higher magnifications.

If you do want more magnification, remember that the quality of the lenses and prisms (which affects transmittance) become increasingly important.

Low quality lenses and prisms will produce low quality images, especially above 45x.

The highest useful magnification of your scope depends on the quality of the lenses and prisms, the objective lens size (discussed below), and outside conditions (low or bright light, haze, heat waves, etc.)

Objective Lens (Aperture)

The size of the objective lens determines the light-gathering capacity of a spotting scope.

More light = more clarity and detail which = a brighter, clearer image.

Aperture is defined as the diameter of the objective lens, usually measured in millimeters.

Bird watching objective lenses normally range between 50-80mm.

In general, a larger objective lens equals more weight and more $$.

When deciding on the objective size for your scope, get the largest objective you’re willing to pay for, but also willing to carry.

If you’re willing to carry a little extra weight, an 80mm objective lens will give you good images in nearly all light conditions, especially at higher magnifications. This is up to you.

Think about where and when you will be doing most of your birding.

If you live in Seattle (many cloudy days), go for the bigger objective lens.

If you live in a dry, sunny location, i.e. Arizona desert, and do most of your birding during the day (not dusk or dawn) and you want to carry something lighter, perhaps you could consider going a little smaller.

Exit Pupil

Along with objective lens size, the exit pupil is the best measure of image brightness.

The exit pupil is the diameter of light in millimeters visible through the eyepiece.

To calculate the exit pupil divide the objective lens size by magnification.

So the higher the magnification, the larger the objective lens needed to maintain image brightness.

As a general rule of thumb, try to get a scope where the exit pupil is 1.33mm or more.

Because in conditions besides optimal (bright, calm), an exit pupil below this will be insufficient, especially at higher magnifications.

So if you had a scope with a 20-60x zoom eyepiece, an 80mm objective lens would be suitable for all magnification ranges.

80mm (obj. lens size)/60 (highest magnification)= 1.33mm (exit pupil size).

However, a 50mm objective lens at 60x would give you an exit pupil of .83 mm (50/60=.83). Not as good, especially in lower light conditions.

Eyepieces

The eyepiece is what determines the magnification of your scope. It is also is a factor in determining field of view, exit pupil size, and eye relief.

Eyepieces sometimes are included with you scope but more often are sold separately.

Most scopes have interchangeable eyepieces, specific to manufacturer and line, allowing you to choose one or more that fits your preferences.

You can get either interchangeable fixed or single zoom (variable) eyepieces for your scope.

There are some spotting scopes, usually zooms or waterproof scopes, which have eyepieces that are non-interchangeable.

Zoom eyepieces have a range of magnification levels from low to high, usually 15-45x or 20-60x.

Birders find these very useful because they can scan at the lower magnification (wider field of view) to find the bird, then use the higher magnification to see details.

If most of your birding is done in wide open spaces, i.e. ocean seabird watching, hawk mountain ridges, then you may want to get a fixed wide-angle eyepiece which provides a wider field of view.

Or one with long eye relief (usually 25 or 27x) for those who wear eyeglasses. Or an eyepiece just for digiscoping.

Just remember to get a scope with an objective lens size that will be able to provide you with good images at all magnification ranges (review objective lens size and exit pupil size).

The quality of the eyepiece glass and design affects image quality as well. So selecting an eyepiece is just as important as selecting the scope body.

Note that manufacturers may have eyepieces that can only be used on one design line while other may be used on multiple lines.

You may want to consider this and see what eyepieces can be used on your scope if you plan on getting more than one.

Field of View

The linear field of view (FOV) is measured as the width of area visible at 1,000 yards (or meters) from the observer.

It can also be expressed in degrees as the angular field of view. Normally as magnification increases, field of view decreases.

In general, a wide field of view is better for following fast-moving objects or for scanning and finding birds in the scope.

As discussed earlier in the eyepieces section, if most of your birding is done in wide open spaces, i.e. ocean seabird watching, hawk mountain ridges, then you may want to get a fixed wide-angle eyepiece that will provide you with a wider FOV.

You will notice that when comparing a 20x fixed eyepiece with a 20-60x eyepiece that the fixed 20x will have a wider field of view than the zoom at 20x. Just a matter of design.

Optical Design

The 2 basic optical designs of scopes are refractive and catadioptric.

Nearly all birding spotting scopes are refractive.

The reason being that even though catadioptric scopes provide clearer images at higher magnification (of same weight of refractor), they cost significantly more than refractive scopes and are not as strong and durable for field use as refractive scopes.

If you want that extra bit of edge for better images, have the cash, and think your scope won’t get bumped around too much, then go for the catadioptric.

Otherwise, a refractive scope is what you want.

But remember, catadioptric scopes may have images that are vertically correct, but reverse the image left and right.

REFRACTOR CATADIOPTRIC Uses optical glass to bend light Primarily uses mirrors to reflect light Image is correct (right-side up and right to left) Image vertically correct, but reversed right to left Focal length shorter (wider field of view Focal length longer (narrower field of view More durable and field-reliable, low maintenance More fragile, but rubber armor coating can help with protection from elements Simpler design, Less expensive 3-5x more expensive than refractors Heavier Provides greater magnification than refractors of the same weight Best for for terrestrial, nature viewing, birding, hunting, outdoor viewing Best for long distance above-horizon terrestrial applications, telephotography and astronomical observing. Can use fixed or zoom eyepieces Designed to primarily use fixed eyepieces. Performance above 60x diminishes Can provide useful magnifications up to 200x

How To Choose A Spotting Scope for Birding

Here is our continuing discussion of bird watching spotting scope features and how to choose a scope.

Spotting Scopes Part I above discusses magnification, objective lens, exit pupil, eyepieces, field of view and optical design.

In Spotting Scopes Part II we will discusses body design, eye relief, focus mechanism, close focus, weather proofing, and glass composition to help you choose a spotting scope.

Spotting Scope Body Design: Straight or Angled?

There are two basic body designs of refractor spotting scopes: straight and angled.

Straight scopes have the barrel and eyepiece aligned with each other, angled scopes have the eyepiece offset 45 or 90 degrees from the barrel.

There are pros and cons for both.

Personally, we like the straight design.

It’s easier to follow birds that are moving and because we often use our spotting scope from inside the car with a window mount, a straight scope is not a problem.

Many people fine the straight line of sight is easier for accurate aiming.

A straight design is also easier to use from an elevated position.

For example, viewing your backyard birds from a second-story deck.

On the other hand, if you are tall or do a lot of birding with groups, or most of your viewing is above the horizon (looking at cliffs, viewing soaring raptors, birds on tree-tops) than perhaps an angled design would be a better choice.

It all depends how you want to use your spotting scope.

An angled scope can be shared easier than a straight scope because more people of different heights can comfortable look into the scope without adjusting the height.

Think about how you will most often be using your spotting scope. This will help you decide which design best suits your needs.

Part I Spotting Scopes 101 Part II Spotting Scopes 102 Magnification Body Design Objective Lens Eye Relief Exit Pupil Focus Mechanism Eyepieces Close Focus Field of View Weather Proofing Optical Design Glass Composition

Spotting Scope Focus Mechanism

There are 3 basic focusing mechanism designs: single knob, double knob, and helical.

If you can, try different mechanisms and see which one works best for you.

If you can’t, then choose a knob focuser which is generally preferred for bird watching and nature viewing.

Single Double Knob Helical Most common, slow but precise, not as accurate with fine focus 2 drive knobs. One knob gives fast coarse focus, other knob gives precision fine focus Slower on coarse focus, better fine focus control, works well for observing objects that are quickly changing distances, near to far Used by: Bushnell, Kowa, Pentax, Bausch & Lomb, Swift and Zeiss Used by: Leica Used by: Swarovski and Nikon

There are also rack & pinion designs which are commonly found on astronomical telescopes and usually offer fairly fast, smooth focusing, but most components are external and subject to potential deterioration from dust and moisture over time.

Spotting Scope Glass Composition/Coatings

Color aberration is sometimes noticeable with refractor scopes.

Also light transmission can be increased by reducing reflections.

This can be mostly eliminated with the right kind of glass and coatings.

Look for scopes with ED (extra-low dispersion) FL (Fluorite) HD (High Density) and/or APO (apochromatic) glass.

These elements will provide you with an image of higher clarity, detail, and sharpness which in turn will reduce eyestrain.

Of coarse scopes with these extras add extra cost.

Another factor to weigh, but you’ll be paying the cost in frustration when you can’t see those details on that special bird on an overcast (low-light) day.

Spend the extra money on your spotting scope, save by making coffee at home, renting movies, skip the fast-food, make your own x-mas or birthday presents.

Not eating french-fries for a month may buy you the feathered look of a lifetime!

Weather Proofing/Protection

Unless your scope is going to reside inside your home, weather proofing is not an option.

You never know when that rain cloud will just pop-up out of nowhere.

Look for scopes with waterproof and fogproof (nitrogen/dry gas filled) designations.

Rubber armoring is also a nice addition.

It provides protection against abrasive materials, corrosion and helps cushion the scope against unexpected impacts (oops!).

It also makes it more easier and comfortable to handle in cold, wet weather.

Spotting Scope Eye Relief

Eye relief is an important feature on for eyeglass wearers.

It is the distance in millimeters between the eyepiece of the spotting scope and your eye that still allows you to see a complete field of view image in focus.

As an eyeglass wearer your eye is further away from the spotting scope eyepiece, which means a longer eye relief is needed in order to see the entire field of view.

For most eyeglass wearers, an eye relief between 12-15mm will be adequate.

Without adequate eye relief, you won’t get a complete field of view and find you’ll need to remove your glasses in order to see the image properly.

So long eye relief promises full field viewing with eyeglasses.

As mentioned previously in the eyepiece section, there are eyepieces specifically made with long eye relief.

You may also want to select eyepieces that have folding or rollback eyecups so you can get your eyes closer.

Spotting Scope Close Focus

Close or near focus is the distance between the scope and the nearest object you can focus on, while maintaining a good image and sharp focus.

In general, as magnification increases, the minimum close focal distance also increases. So scopes will typically have longer close focus ranges than binoculars.

For bird watching, a short close focus is beneficial for seeing details of a bird that has landed up-close to your scope.

It is also better for taking photographs (see digiscoping). So if this is important to you, selecting a scope with a close distance of 15ft or less would be optimal.

Summary:Get a lightweight, strong & sturdy scope.

If it’s not lightweight, it will be uncomfortable to carry around.

And if it’s not well built with strong housing, the first time it gets bumped when you’re frantically grabbing it from your back seat to see that lifetime peep (a.k.a sandpiper), you may be very disappointed when the focus doesn’t focus.

You get what you pay for – so don’t go cheap. Cheeps are for the birds.

So as with anything else, weigh the cost against the benefits, and get the best spotting cope you can afford.

If you can’t afford a Swarovski, Leica or Zeiss (top-end, most expensive manufacturers) then look at others such as Kowa, Nikon or Pentax which can have just as good designs, but be significantly lower priced.

And don’t forget to leave money in your budget for a sturdy tripod to support your scope, otherwise it’s like putting a Mercedes on golf cart tires.

Spotting Scope Basics

Hope you’ve enjoyed this review of spotting scope basics and we wish you the best in finding that perfect scope.

Digiscoping – Photography with spotting scopes

How to Choose Bird Watching Binoculars

Bird Watching Binoculars 101

Best Binoculars for Bird Watching

Types of Binoculars

High Power Binoculars – sometimes can be used as an alternative to spotting scopes if used with a tripod or monopod.

Jason Binoculars – Auto Focusing Binoculars

Best Zoom Binoculars

Best Mini Binoculars

Infrared Binoculars

Best Marine Binoculars

Cornell’s Review of Birding Spotting Scopes

Nightcrawlers are common earthworms that are found around the world. Rather than overspend for live nightcrawlers at a fishing supply store, you figured you’d try catching your own. Where can you find nightcrawlers to use as fishing bait?

To catch nightcrawlers, seek out a crop field or a garden with tilled soil. You can even check your own backyard. In daylight or nighttime, dig a few inches deep into the soil and it should be wriggling with live worms. That will especially be the case after it rains.

This guide to catching nightcrawlers will be chock full of information that any aspiring angler should keep handy. You’ll learn where to find nightcrawlers, how to get them out of the ground in large quantities, and how to keep them alive so you can use them as live bait later. Keep reading!

Finding Nightcrawlers – Where to Look

The Lumbricus terrestris or common earthworm-which is also known as the nightcrawler-may have originated in Western Europe, but today, the worms are anywhere and everywhere across the United States.

That’s why anglers find the prospect of catching their own nightcrawlers so appealing, as they don’t have to expend a lot of effort to track down the worms. Here are some places you can go nightcrawler hunting today.

Your Backyard

Why not start with the most convenient place you could possibly find nightcrawlers, right in your backyard?

Nightcrawlers live in loam soil, which contains 20 percent clay, 40 percent silt, and 40 percent sand. Most soil in the US is categorized as loam, but only you know what kind of soil you have around your property.

If your soil is drier and sandier than 40 percent, then you probably won’t be able to find worms in your yard. Also-although it goes without saying-if your home features asphalt or rocks rather than a dedicated yard, then you’ll also have to venture elsewhere for your nightcrawler hunting.

Just don’t start digging in your neighbor’s yard, as they’re not going to appreciate that!

Crop Fields

If you can’t find nightcrawlers right outback, you can always seek local crop fields. A crop field is a large agricultural area that usually features tilled soil.

Another feature of crop fields is dead debris such as old leaves that nightcrawlers can conveniently feast on from the safety of the tilled soil.

However, if you don’t know who the crop field landowner is, you won’t want to hunt for nightcrawlers. You could get in possible legal trouble for entering someone else’s property and technically defacing it. Ask for permission first or find yet another place to dig for nightcrawlers.

Gardens

Gardens are packed full of soil, and if that soil is loamy, then you already know nightcrawlers will be there.

As you work in your garden, you’ll want to dig strategically to avoid upsetting plants, flowers, and trees that are still growing. Try to replace the soil after making holes so your plants don’t tip over due to stability issues.

Parks

You can always find plenty of greenery at your local park. You know what we’re about to say, you can’t dig at a park without permission from the landowner or a parks and rec association at the very least.

That said, you can look under fallen trees or beneath rocks for nightcrawlers since you’re not damaging the soil. You don’t need permission for that.

Almost Anywhere After the Rain

If all the above methods sound like too much time and trouble, you don’t necessarily have to do any of it. You can always check the forecast for the next rainfall. Nightcrawlers come out in droves after the rain, especially if it rains during the evening.

You won’t have to look hard for them, as they’ll be nearly anywhere and everywhere. Check the sidewalks, the surface of the lawn or soil, and rocks and trees. You’ll see plenty of worms.

Fun fact: if you live in an area where rains are rarer, you can always trick the nightcrawlers into thinking it’s raining if you wait until dusk and water your lawn.

We recommend bringing some sawdust when you’re catching worms after the rain. The already-slippery insects will become even harder to grasp thanks to the moisture of the precipitation. Using sawdust gives you a better grip on the nightcrawlers.

Plus, the rumor is that that the worms don’t like the texture of the sawdust so they’re more eager to pop out of their holes.

How to Get Nightcrawlers Out of the Ground

Once you’ve seen at least one nightcrawler wriggling about, you can assume that more are in the area. Here are some of the avenues you can use to begin catching nightcrawlers by the dozen.

A Shovel and Bucket

The most old-fashioned method is using a gardening shovel and a bucket. The shovel is for digging into the loamy soil.

As we established earlier, you shouldn’t have to make inches-deep holes to find nightcrawlers.

By removing the top layer of the soil, you should see the worms wriggling. Pull them from the ground (more on this in a later section, so definitely check it out!) and then store them in a plastic bucket.

If you don’t have a bucket, then any similar container should work. The key is to choose a container with tall sides so the worms can’t easily crawl up and over. The container should also ideally have a carrying handle for easy transport.

In the bucket, add a bit of soil and worm food such as dead leaves. This will keep your nightcrawler alive until you get home.

Water

We already talked about this, but water is a very reliable way to get nightcrawlers to reveal themselves, especially if you’re struggling to find any worms.

Why do nightcrawlers like water so much? As worms, nightcrawlers usually stay under the soil where it’s dark and moist because there’s little risk of them drying out. They won’t poke their heads out in bright, sunny weather for that very reason.

When it rains, the worms can finally emerge from underneath the soil while staying nice and moist. The rain also accelerates a nightcrawler’s speed so it can cross greater distances.

As we mentioned earlier, watering your lawn at dusk means that by nightfall, the earthworms should be plentiful.

Worm Grunting

You can also try worm grunting, which is known as worm charming and worm fiddling. This activity is common among anglers who want to catch many nightcrawlers at once. It’s even a competitive activity!

First, you have to create vibrations in the soil. This will bring the worms nearer the surface. Then it’s a matter of catching the nightcrawlers.

Car Battery

If you don’t mind that your nightcrawlers are dead, then you can always electrocute them to the surface using a car battery.

This method is a little harsher than the ones we’ve discussed to this point, and if you do it, you should ensure that the landscape is clear of other living creatures (that you can perceive, anyway), especially those on or in the soil.

You’ll need jumper cables, metal rods, and your car battery. Please wear rubber-soled shoes to ensure your safety as you go about catching nightcrawlers like this.

Take two of the metal rods and insert them several feet into the ground, no deeper than three feet. Then attach your jumper cables to your car battery with the rubber grippers. Connect the other end of the jumper cable grippers to the affixed metal rods.

As electricity generates, the nightcrawlers will immediately spring to the surface to get away from the volts. You can catch them easily from there.

More Tips for Catching Nightcrawlers

Want even more tips to make you a nightcrawler-catching master? No problem! Here’s what we recommend.

Bring a Flashlight for Nighttime Catches

Nighttime is prime time for catching nightcrawlers. After all, these common earthworms are known as nightcrawlers for a reason. At night, when it’s usually cool, the worms will emerge to the surface of the soil. Nighttime is also a period when fewer predators abound.

You’ll need a flashlight to spot nightcrawlers on the ground. You can have a friend or partner carry the flashlight or you can bring it yourself. You can even use your smartphone flashlight, although not if you’re planning to hunt for a while. That’s a great way to drain your phone’s battery!

Headlamps Are Your Friend

Outside of flashlights, it’s a good idea to bring a headlamp as well. After all, once you find the nightcrawlers, how are you supposed to dig them up? You can’t hold the flashlight in one hand and dig with the other hand. It just doesn’t work.

Use Red Light

Nightcrawlers are adept at sensing the light. As soon as you shine a bright spotlight on a nightcrawler-such as from a flashlight or a smartphone-the worm will retreat underground.

To a nightcrawler, light = sunlight, and sunlight = danger, either from predators, drying out, or both.

Nightcrawlers are smart too, in that the one that senses the light isn’t the only worm to hide. Any other worms in the vicinity that might have been poking their heads up will also duck back down. You lose out on a lot of potential catches.

Using red light is the best way to mask the brightness of your light while still illuminating the yard. You can either buy a flashlight or headlamp with a red light or you can tape a piece of red cellophane over the light. You can even put cellophane on a smartphone flashlight.

Tread Lightly

Besides being able to sense light, nightcrawlers can detect vibrations caused by sound as well. If you usually have a heavy gait, it’s worth practicing quieter walking if you hope to be successful in your nightcrawler hunts.

We’re not saying you have to tip-toe here, but you do want to be as light on your feet as possible. If you’re not, the worms will sense you before you ever get close and you won’t see any.

The only exception to this is when it’s raining. It could be that the worms sense the vibrations of the rain falling to such an extent that your footfalls don’t stand out among that sound, but worms don’t react to heavy footsteps as much in the rain.

Wear Light Shoes

Even if you’re stealthy like a ninja, it’s still not a bad idea to wear light shoes when you’re digging for nightcrawlers. Ditch the combat boots, Timberlands, and heavy shoes like them. Wear house slippers (that you don’t mind getting muddy) or shoes with very light soles.

Skip the flip-flops though, as the flopping sound is not going to help you catch nightcrawlers.

Know When and How to Grab

As we said we would, we want to discuss is how to pull nightcrawlers out of the ground. To do so, you’ll have to get good at distinguishing the worm’s head from its rear. The head is what usually emerges first from the soil, which is a helpful hint.

The center of a nightcrawler’s body features a series of rings that allow the worm to have traction in the dirt. Then the other side of the worm is its tail.

When you see the nightcrawler emerge from its hole, grasp your hand around it and begin to pull up horizontally. Vertical pulling could cause you to tear the worm, and then it won’t be very good as fishing bait.

The body will be in the soil at an angle, so pull the nightcrawler at whatever angle it’s situated itself.

Remember to take your time when pulling and don’t use excessive force. Otherwise, you’ll kill the nightcrawler!

How to Keep Nightcrawlers Alive to Use as Live Fishing Bait

We’re assuming that you’re interested in keeping your nightcrawlers alive so you can eventually use them as fishing bait, right? Here’s how it’s done.

Move Your Nightcrawlers to a New Container

The container that will be the nightcrawler’s more permanent home should be full of loamy soil as well as worm food.

Dead debris like vegetables and grass as well as old coffee grounds (that are still moist) are recommended. The coffee grounds are easily ingestible for worms, so don’t be surprised if this is what they start with!

Refrigerate the Worms

Yes, that’s right, we’re telling you to put the nightcrawlers in the refrigerator. We know this sounds weird, but it’s part of maintaining the worms’ optimal temperature, which is between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

Keep the Soil Moist

Time will cause the soil to dry out, so every couple of days, you might have to add more water. You should only spill in a few drops at a time.

Add More Food

The nightcrawlers will eventually eat everything you give them, even if that takes a bit. While you’re checking the soil moisture levels, consider adding more food like coffee grounds or old leaves as well.

However, if there’s still food in the container, don’t feed the nightcrawlers yet. You could accidentally feed them too much, and then they’ll die.

If you continue doing the above, you could keep your nightcrawlers alive for weeks. Plan that fishing trip soon!

Final Thoughts

Nightcrawlers are a species of common earthworm that are prevalent throughout the country. You need only look in your backyard for nightcrawlers, although they’re common in crop fields, parks, and gardens as well.

Rainfall remains your most natural way of bringing out the greatest number of nightcrawlers, but you could always shock them out of the ground using a car battery and some metal poles if you don’t mind that your worms are dead.

Now that you know how to find, catch, handle, and keep nightcrawlers, you should never have to shop for live worm bait again!

These 12 gauge turkey loads will help you drop a gobbler this year.

The trusty 12 gauge has long been the favored turkey hunting shotgun of choice by hunters. In most cases, it offers the best combination of stopping power and long range to reach out and drop those large Toms where they stand. The technology behind both the guns themselves, specialized turkey choke tubes, and turkey ammunition only seems to get better every year.

In truth, our hunting gear today is capable of things our forefathers could only have dreamed about. Today we’re focusing exclusively on turkey loads for 12 gauges. We’ll talk about choosing a shot size to bring down that gobbler and the different benefits between the types of shot.

More importantly, we’ll quickly run down some of the top turkey hunting options as far as ammunition goes for 12 gauges these days. Let’s get ready to bring home that turkey dinner!

What size shot is best for a turkey load?

Most hunters go with either No. 4, 5, or 6 shot sizes for turkey ammo. Perhaps more important than the shot size is the type. Lead shot has always been the traditional favorite for speed and knockdown power purposes. However, in recent years, tungsten has really taken off as a premium magnum turkey ammo. Some hunters have taken advantage of the fact that tungsten is heavier than lead to use shot weights of No. 7 or even No. 8, or 9 shot on turkey. Tungsten is popular for public lands since it’s usually considered non-toxic and can be used in places with lead bans. The downside is that it’s usually very expensive.

Perhaps the best thing to keep in mind is that larger, heavier shot is usually going to be best at longer ranges. However, when you start looking at larger shot, you’re also looking at lower pellet counts. That usually means a tight pattern and less room for error if your shot is a bit off. At the end of the day, there is no right answer to this question. It’s the responsibility of the hunter to do a little experimenting to find out what shot, and load size is going to pattern best in his or her firearm.

This may also require some adjustments between chokes. What works great with a full choke may not function as well with a modified one and vice versa. The good news is, once you figure out what your gun likes, you can usually return to that load season after season with little worry.

Of course, you can also compromise and try to get all the benefits in one shotgun shell. One trend in recent years has been for ammunition manufacturers to make turkey shotshells offering “multi-stage payloads” with differing sizes of shot. The idea there being that one shell can easily cover close, medium, and long distance ranges. Think of it as like a Swiss Army knife but in shotshell form. The downside to these rounds is they may not pattern well in every gun. They can also be surprisingly expensive.

Hevi-Shot Magnum Blend

This offering from Hevi-Shot is one of those loads with mixed lead shot sizes we mentioned earlier. They offer three and 3 ½-inch shotshells with loads between 1 ½ ounces and 2 ¼ ounces. You’re looking at 1,150 to 1,200 fps speeds with these shells, which use shot sizes 4, 5, and 7 for almost all the offerings. Although they also make a 2-ounce load with shot sizes 5, 6, and 7. Magnum Blend is expensive, but many turkey hunters have reported harvests out to 40 and 50 yards using these shotshells.

Winchester Long Beard XR

The Winchesters are a great, mid-priced option for hunters looking for a solid, high velocity lead option. The company offers these shotshells in both three and 3 ½-inch shells with load sizes 1 ¾, 1 7/8, and two ounces. Shot sizes are four and five and you can expect a muzzle velocity of around 1,080 to 1,200 fps. We’ve heard from hunters online saying they’ve patterned these loads out to 50 and 60 yards easily, giving you chances at Toms that normally seem to strut just out of range.

Federal Premium Heavyweight TSS

A tungsten shot option from Federal Premium. These loads have become extremely popular in turkey hunting circles for their long range capabilities. That’s partially thanks to the FLITECONTROL Flex wad, which helps produce nice tight patterns. Shot sizes 7, 7 and 9, and 9 are available in 1 ¾, 1 ½, 2, 2 ½, and 2 ¼ shot charge sizes. The only thing we don’t like is the price which like everything else has gone up recently. We recently priced them on sites like Sportsman’s Warehouse at $59.99 to $85.99 for a box of five.

Remington Nitro Turkey

We don’t want to stuff this list just with expensive turkey loads. Because not everyone can or wants to drop major dollars just to bring home a turkey dinner. Remington advertises a muzzle velocity between 1,200 and 1,300 fps for these shells. They offer these in shot sizes 4, 5, and 6. Short charges include 1 ¼, 1 ¾, 1 7/8, 1 ½, and 2. You’re going to want to keep your shots closer with these. Most users report the pattern loses effectiveness beyond 35 yards. However, for hunters on a budget, Remington Nitro Turkey is a solid option as it comes in around $10 to $12 a box depending on the shot size and load. Remington recently stepped up manufacturing again, so these shells are becoming a little easier to find on store shelves.

Hevi-Metal Turkey

This is a solid option for public land hunters. These shells are loaded with a mixture of No. 4 steel and No. 5 bismuth shot in 3 and 3 ½-inch magnum shells. Load sizes are 1 ½ and 1 ¼. The most pleasant surprise about these rounds are the speeds you can expect. Hevi-Shot says to expect about 1,450 fps from both variations. At around $16 a box, they’re also highly affordable for the public land hunter trying to get things done without breaking the bank.

Winchester Super X Turkey

Another solid budget option. We like the Winchesters slightly more than the Remington Nitro Turkey. Like the Remington, it’s not a long range round. We’d stick within 40 yards using these. However, for copper-plated shot, it’s hard to beat $10 to $12 a box. Winchester offers 4, 5, and 6 shot sizes and 1 7/8, 1 ½-ounce loads. Expect around 1,260 fps with the Super X. For a bargain ammo, this one is hard to beat.

Kent Ultimate Turkey Diamond Shot

Affordable and variety. That’s what Kent offers with their Ultimate Turkey Diamond Shot. For 12 gauges, Kent manufactures shell lengths between 2 ¾ and 3 ½ inches. Load sizes include 1 5/8, 1 ¾, 2, and 2 ¼ ounces. Shot sizes include four and five. Diamond refers to the hardness of the shot. These are some lethal-hitting rounds for an excellent price. We’ve even seen them for sale for under $10 recently. Expect about 1,200 fps muzzle velocities out of these loads.

Winchester Double X

Another solid mid-priced option from Winchester. These magnum turkey loads are available in 4, 5, and 6 shot sizes with load sizes including 1 ¾, 2, and even 2 ¼ ounce sizes. Expect between 1,150 and 1,300 fps speeds from this copper-plated lead shot. Expect to pay around $20 to $25 a box, placing these loads squarely in the middle of the pack as far as price point goes.

READ MORE: 20 GAUGE TURKEY LOADS: 8 OF THE BEST OPTIONS ON THE MARKET TODAY

You’ll find our in-depth look at 8.6 Blackout ballistics from manufacturers who load 8.6 Blackout ammo.

Click on the links below to skip to your preferred ammo company and find the data you need for your favorite factory load.

8.6 Blackout Ballistics Charts

Jump to an ammo company: Callaway | Dirty Bird | Fort Scott | Gorilla

Callaway Ammunition Ballistics – 8.6 Blackout

Callaway Ballistics 8.6 Blackout 285 grain ELD-M Ballistics Chart

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Dirty Bird Industries Ammunition Ballistics – 8.6 Blackout

Dirty Bird 8.6 Blackout 300 grain SMK Ballistics Chart

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Fort Scott Munitions Ballistics – 8.6 Blackout

Fort Scott Munitions 8.6 Blackout 285 grain TUI Ballistics Chart

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Gorilla Ammunition Ballistics – 8.6 Blackout

Jump to a ballistics chart: Gorilla 8.6 Blackout 210 grain TSX | Gorilla 8.6 Blackout 300 grain SMK | Gorilla Silverback 8.6 Blackout 285 grain Fracturing | Gorilla Subsonic Hunting 8.6 Blackout 342 grain Pork Shredder CHP

Gorilla 8.6 Blackout 210 grain TSX Ballistics Chart

Gorilla 8.6 Blackout 300 grain SMK Ballistics Chart

Gorilla Silverback 8.6 Blackout 285 grain Fracturing Ballistics Chart

Gorilla Subsonic Hunting 8.6 Blackout 342 grain Pork Shredder CHP Ballistics Chart

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Administrative Note: The information above comes from the manufacturer and is only informational. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load. When manufacturer ballistic data was unavailable, ballistics were calculated using a ballistics calculator.

8.6 Blackout Ballistics Trajectory Chart

The trajectory measures a bullet’s flight to its target based on bullet drop (in inches). Below, you’ll find an 8.6 Blackout bullet drop chart that gives you a general idea of the 8.6 Blackout trajectory.

Note: The chart above is an example of one 8.6 Blackout load, and actual ballistic performance may vary depending on bullet weight, lot, barrel length, and environmental conditions while shooting.

The 8.6 Blackout is not what we shooters consider a long-range round. As you can see, it quickly drops off after 100 yards, which is abysmal compared to a round like the 6.5 PRC or even the 300 BLK.

8.6 Blackout Muzzle Velocity (FPS)

Muzzle velocity is the bullet’s speed when it leaves the firearm barrel. It’s measured in feet per second (fps). Generally, a longer barrel length allows for more powder to burn, generating a higher muzzle velocity. Bullet design and weight will also affect muzzle velocity.

You should expect a muzzle velocity of around 1,000 fps for most 8.6 Blackout ammo, including the Gorilla Subsonic Hunting 8.6 Blackout 342-grain Pork Shredder CHP. However, the Gorilla 8.6 Blackout 210gr TSX has a much higher-than-usual muzzle velocity of 1,970 fps. This is partly due to the lighter bullet, which takes more powder to propel heavier bullets faster.

8.6 Blackout Muzzle Energy

Muzzle energy is how much force a bullet delivers to its target at a given range, measured in foot-pounds of energy (ft-lbs). The terminal performance of a round will depend on whether it’s a supersonic load or subsonic load, bullet weight, bullet design, barrel length, and several other factors.

The muzzle energy of the 8.6 Blackout is nothing to gasp at, generally hitting 623 ft-lbs to 729 ft-lbs of energy. However, the Gorilla Ammunition with a 210gr Barnes TSX has a much higher muzzle energy of 1,810 ft-lbs of energy.

How Do 8.6 Blackout Ballistics Compare to Other Rifle Cartridges?

Ballistic performance depends on an incredibly high amount of factors from the gun, whether it’s a bolt action rifle or a semi-auto rifle like the AR-10 platform, and barrel length; a short barrel will cause the bullet to react differently than a long barrel, plus all the environmental factors and the ammo.

This is why results vary considerably even amongst the same caliber bullets, making comparing different calibers much more difficult.

However, we’ve compared a couple of common rifle calibers to the 8.6 Blackout just to give you an idea of its performance capabilities.

8.6 Blackout vs. 223 Rem

First things first: When comparing these two calibers, we must be fully aware of the bullets’ size differences. The heaviest 223 Remington bullet is 77 gr, while the 8.6 BLK is loaded with bullets as heavy as 342 gr. So, with this in mind, the ballistics will be drastically different.

The muzzle velocity of a 77gr 223 Rem bullet is 2,750 fps, and one of the fastest 8.6 Blackout bullets is a 185 gr bullet with a muzzle velocity of 2,200 fps. But when we step up to the heaviest bullet for the 8.6 Blackout (342 grains), the velocity is more than cut in half to 1,000 fps.

The 8.6 Blackout also has a low muzzle velocity compared to the 223 Remington. The same 77 gr 223 Rem bullet has a muzzle velocity of 1,293 ft-lbs, double most 8.6 Blackout rounds. However, the 210 gr TSX 8.6 BLK bullet has a higher muzzle energy of 1,810 ft-lbs; the 223 Rem cannot produce this much muzzle energy.

Because the 8.6 Blackout was designed to be shot through a carbine with a suppressor, the trajectory is pretty embarrassing, to say the least.

The 210 grain TSX 8.6 BLK bullet is the flattest shooting 8.6 Blackout round, and when zeroed in at 100 yards, it has 9.4 inches of drop at 200 yards and 129.9 inches of drop at 500 yards. When zeroed in at 200 yards, yes, the 223 Remington shoots flat enough to zero in at 200 yards; the bullet drops 54.73 inches at 500 yards and passes over 600 yards before it drops more than 130 inches.

The differing intended purposes can account for the drastic differences. The 8.6 Blackout is an excellent close-quarters self-defense and a close-range big game hunting rifle. Meanwhile, the 223 Rem is fun to take varmint hunting and plink with at the range.

8.6 Blackout vs 6.5 Creedmoor

The 8.6 Blackout and 6.5 Creedmoor are the closest you can get to having an even comparison regarding the 8.6 BLK. This is because the 6.5 Creedmoor case is the parent case of the 8.6 Blackout.

Some shooters claim the 8.6 Blackout is the big brother to the 6.5 Creedmoor and 300 Blackout; this is primarily due to the size of the bullet each caliber shoots and not based on the ballistics.

The 6.5 Creedmoor Hornady ELD-Match 120 gr bullet has a muzzle velocity of 2,910 fps, and the closest the 8.6 Blackout comes to that is 1,970 fps with a 210 gr Barnes TSX bullet.

Regarding muzzle energy, the 6.5 Creedmoor sits around 2,400 ft-lbs whether you’re shooting the 120 grain or 140 grain bullet. However, the 8.6 Blackout hovers around 700 ft-lbs of energy and tops out at 1,810 ft-lbs with a 210 gr bullet.

I’m sure you know what’s coming concerning the trajectory. To be fair, the 6.5 Creedmoor was designed for long-distance shooting, whereas the 8.6 Blackout was not.

When zeroed in at 100 yards, the 210 grain 8.6 BLK bullet drops over 9 inches by the 200-yard mark and basically 130 inches by the 500-yard mark. In contrast, the 6.5 Creedmoor can be zeroed in at 200 yards and only drops 46 inches by 500 yards.

Frequently Asked Questions

The team at Ammo.com has gathered and answered some of the most commonly asked questions we receive regarding 8.6 Blackout ballistics.

What is the effective range of the 8.6 Blackout?

The effective range of the 8.6 Blackout is 1,000 yards with supersonic rounds, but 300 yards tends to be the max for most shooters as the trajectory is terrible.

What is the supersonic velocity of an 8.6 Blackout?

The supersonic velocity of an 8.6 Blackout round is 2,400 fps, according to Faxon Firearms.

Is 8.6 Blackout the same as 8.6 Creedmoor?

Yes, the 8.6 Blackout is the same as the 8.6 Creedmoor.

What barrel length is recommended for optimal performance with the 8.6 Blackout cartridge?

A 12” barrel is the recommended barrel length for optimal performance with the 8.6 Blackout cartridge. However, to shoot further distances, stepping up to a 16-inch barrel is not a bad idea.

What barrel twist rate is recommended for the 8.6 Blackout?

A 1:3 in or 1:4 in barrel twist rate is recommended for the 8.6 Blackout.

After months of filming wildlife, it’s time to see just what your trail camera captured. Here’s how to view trail camera photos on your computer. The methods vary from simple to fastest. Some methods are automated and require monthly data plans.

There are 4 ways to view your trail camera photos on a computer. They include using a USB cable, using an SD card reader, connecting via WiFi, or syncing photos with a cellular trail camera. Each method will connect your camera and upload your footage to a computer.

How to View Trail Camera Footage on a Computer

Here’s how to view and upload your photos and videos to your computer.

They are listed in order of easiest to more complex. It’s worth noting that the easiest method isn’t the fastest.

1. Connect With Supplied USB Cable (Easiest)

This is an easy method because most trail cameras ship with a USB cable.

This cable is for viewing your photos on a computer. It isn’t for charging, because trail cameras recommend against using rechargeable batteries.

Once connected, your trail camera should automatically display in File Explorer. Your trail camera will display “Mass Storage” or an equivalent term.

Most trail cameras will automatically turn on when connected via USB, regardless of the position of their power button. If it doesn’t power on, turn the power switch on.

1. Connect your USB cable to your trail camera.
2. And insert the other end into your computer. If the camera isn’t recognized automatically, press Window Key + E. This will open File Explorer.
3. Navigate to “This PC”, in the left sidebar. Your trail cam should be visible under this header. It will likely show as “USB Drive”. One folder should be visible: DCIM
4. Open the DCIM folder. You’ll likely see two folders: Movie and Photo. The number of folders may vary, depending on the manufacturer of your trail camera.
5. From here, just drag and drop the files to your computer.

Two Requirements: This method requires that your trail camera have a battery charge. And that you know where your USB cable is.

These are two reasons I prefer the next method. It cuts the camera right out of the equation. This means that battery levels don’t matter. And I don’t have to worry about locating that random cable.

Plus, the next method is faster too.

2. SD Card Reader (Fastest)

This is also a pretty simple way to view your trail camera footage. And if your computer has an SD card reader you won’t need any additional gear.

If you swap out SD cards, your camera can continue to film with its new card, while you’re uploading footage from the old one.

Just pop out your SD card and drop it in the SD card reader. If your computer doesn’t have one built-in, you’ll need to pick one up.

I’ve been using this one by Anker for a few years and I love it. It is USB 3.0 for fast connection and it has slots for standard SD and Micro SD cards.

Here are the steps to view and upload your trail camera footage:

1. Remove the SD card from your trail camera. Make sure that the camera is powered off.
2. Insert the card into either a USB card reader or SD card adapter.
3. Now insert this into your computer. If the card isn’t recognized automatically, press Window Key + E. This will open File Explorer.
4. Navigate to “This PC”, in the left sidebar. Your trail cam should be visible under this header. It will likely show as “USB Drive”. One folder should be visible: DCIM
5. Open the DCIM folder. You’ll likely see two folders: Movie and Photo. The number of folders may vary, depending on the manufacturer of your trail camera.
6. From here, just drag and drop the files to your computer.

This is my favorite method. I have an SD card reader on my desk. And it’s also how I connect my other cameras (GoPro, Canon, Sony, and Olympus) to my computer.

If you don’t love waiting for file transfer, you should consider using an SD card reader. This method is faster than using a USB cable. This is because transfer rates are faster with the USB 3.0 reader than with the supplied cable.

How much faster is a SD card reader? In my test, the USB cable method averaged around 9 MB/s. And the SD card reader transferred the same set of photos and videos (14.1 GB) at a speed of 88 MB/s. That’s almost 10X faster.

• Via USB Cable: 26 minutes
• Via SD Card Reader: Under 3 minutes

Variables: I used the same USB hub and the same SD card (rated for 80 MB/s.

Once you have your SD card connected to your computer, it’s a good idea to format it. Make sure you do this AFTER you upload your footage!

Here’s more about how to properly format your SD card for a trail camera.

3. Connect via WiFi

If you have a WiFi module on your trail camera, you can try to connect this to your home network, and to your phone, via the manufacturer’s app.

A few notes about viewing via WiFi. Your camera will need to be close to your connection. This feature is not made for long-range transmission. Or to deal with physical barriers, like a few trees.

The WiFi module in the camera is underpowered because the batteries are small and power is reserved for filming, not transmitting.

4. Sync Footage From Cellular Trail Camera

If you’re using a cellular-connected trail camera, the images are automatically uploaded to cloud-based storage, where you can access them from your phone or computer.

This is a pretty great option if you have the budget for the purchase of the cellular trail camera and the monthly fee for the data plan. Here’s an explanation of this by Moultrie.

The Final Result

Follow these simple steps and you’ll have your footage and photos uploaded and ready to view.

Here are some clips that I uploaded this morning from some birds this past winter.

Keep reading: Here’s how to troubleshoot a trail camera that won’t turn on.

Your Turn

How do you view trail camera photos on your computer? Have a tip to share? Let me know below!

What should you choose for hunting, the .270 or the .308 cartridge? Some within the hunting community say you can make a decision with a coin toss. Both are outstanding and have have stood the test of time for decades.

Having said that, the .270 and .308 have their differences, and a good hunter should know them. Our goal is to set out what these differences are and why you may choose one over the other when hunting.

I’ll begin with the main points before diving into our cartridge comparison below for the ballistics aficionados among us.

.270 vs .308: Which for Hunting?

We spent a lot of time comparing and measuring the performance of these two cartridges against each other. Overall, there is not a huge amount of difference between them – they both have similar recoil and are supersonic all the way to 500 yards. Competent shooters have had a great deal of success using either to dispatch a variety of medium and large game across the world.

Having said that, there are some advantages to choosing one over the other, depending on the scenario in which you’re hunting.

Hunting in Thick Brush?

As the .308 is a heavier cartridge with a larger diameter, it requires a long action rifle. This can add a couple extra inches to your barrel. The downside of this is that if you’re navigating thick brush or holed up in a deer hunting tree stand, you can find yourself more restricted when zeroing in quickly and quietly for your kill shot. In this case, a shorter, lightweight rifle chambered for the .270 is a much more effective hunting companion. Plus, a .270 (particularly at the lower grain end) has less recoil.

Require a Longer Shot?

As I said, both the .270 and .308 remain supersonic at 500 yards. However, the .308 has a higher average bullet drop than the .270 even at short ranges (-14.5 inches vs -11.91 inches at 300 yards – see our data below). At 500 yards the difference is a full 10 inches. This may sound insignificant, but this can be the difference between success and failure, particularly at greater distances.

The flatter trajectory and greater resistance to wind drift makes the .270 the better choice. Of course, an advanced hunter may not consider this a huge challenge but as a rule, we recommend the .270.

Shooting Large Game?

At 100-200 yards both the .270 and .308 have the stopping power to dispatch an elk, brown bear or moose. However, as the .308 has a larger diameter and is sold at higher grain levels, it will outperform the .270 particularly with thick-skinned or larger, tougher animals. Having said that, you must ensure you purchase a quality cartridge that leverages controlled expansion to ensure an effective and ethical kill.

We also saw in our comparison that the .308 consistently outperformed the .270 on average for bullet momentum (up to 500 yards) which is a good indicator for improved penetration, despite the .270 having a higher average sectional diversity.

Shooting Medium Game (whitetail deer, feral hogs, etc) within 100-200 yards?

Both the .308 and the .270 can be used at this range. However, we’d argue that the .270 is preferable particularly for lighter-skinned game, such as whitetail deer. Dispatching medium game using a .308 can be overkill, particularly if you’re a meat hunter – you’ll find the .308 can cause significant damage. Certainly, at this range you want to ensure you’re on the lower end of the grain spectrum for the .308 to counter this. The .270 will be perfectly efficient for you.

Affordable Hunting

Both the .308 and .270 are popular and readily available at all ammo stores online and offline. Additionally, they are both less prone to the panic buying you experience with other rounds. However, when it comes to affordability, it is worth mentioning that the .308 tends to be on the cheaper side. If cost is an important factor, you may want to investigate the 6.5 Creedmoor as another alternative.

.270 vs .308 Cartridge Comparison

Category.270.308 Bullet weights (gr)120-160125-70 Average Muzzle Velocity (ft/s)2963.32733 Average Recoil (ft.lb)19.5622.15 Average Supersonic limit (Yards)1101.251023.70 Average Ballistic Coefficient0.4380.434 Average Sectional Density0.2690.248

Both are fantastic cartridges that have been tried and tested in the field for decades. We will take a look at the history and specifications of these cartridges as well as look in detail at the ballistic categories. We will also take a look at other categories such as recoil, accuracy, and availability of the ammunition.

Our objective is not to name one cartridge as being better than the other. By looking at this information, we hope to better tease apart which cartridge is better suited for specific hunting situations. If you know the hunting you want to take part in, this article will make your decision easier.

Specs 270 vs 308

.308 Winchester.270 Winchester Parent Casing0.3.30-03 Bullet Diameter0.308”0.277” Neck Diameter0.3433”0.308” Case Length2.015”2.540” Overall Length2.8”3.340” Case Capacity56gr67gr Max Pressure (SAAMI)62,000psi65,000psi

Just from looking at the casing and overall cartridge specs we can begin to garner some information about the .270 vs .308. The first difference that we see between these two cartridges are the bullet diameters. The .308, as the name implies, has a 30 cal bullet with a .308″ diameter bullet. The .270 is fitted with a .277″ diameter bullet. These diameters play a role in the weight of the bullets that are used by the two cartridges and in other performance specs that we will look at later in the article.

You can see that the .270 is a much longer and skinnier cartridge than the .308. And even though the .270 is skinnier, its .5 inch increase in the casing length allows it to hold more powder and can withstand 3,000 more units of pressure than the .308. Obviously, just from this little bit of information, we can already guess that the two cartridges are going to show some differences in their ballistics and other We will see how these specifications influence the ballistic and other properties of the cartridges shortly.

To compare, we have selected five rounds of each cartridge that are popular for hunting and general shooting in the US. The list below shows these rounds. And though we think that we have a good selection of rounds with different grain weight bullets and performance specs, we are aware that it is still a relatively small sample size with the number of options that are available. Unfortunately, we are limited in our available space and decided to cut the samples off at ten. We know there are other great rounds that are available and some of these might be rounds you have been using for years. Their omission here does not reflect our attitude towards those rounds.

AmmunitionPrice (20 Rounds) 270 Hornady SST Superperformance 130gr$41.99 270 Federal Vital-Shok Nosler Partition 150gr$57.99 270 Remington Core-Lokt PSP 115gr$26.99 270 Winchester Ballistic Silvertip 130gr$41.99 270 Federal Sierra GameKing BTSP 150gr$33.99 308 Hornady BTHP Match 168gr$37.99 308 Winchester Super-X 180gr$27.99 308 Nosler Ballistic Tip 165gr$43.99 308 Federal Vital-Shok Ballistic Tip 150gr$39.99 308 Federal Gold Medal Sierra Matchking 175gr$36.99

To compare these ten rounds, we have gathered data from the manufacturer as well as generated a good deal from trusted ballistic calculators. Where ballistic calculators are used we kept as many variables the same between rounds of the same cartridge. Where calculations are made, we will be sure to make clear our variables. When we come to these situations we will make clear what is going on and the variables that we used.

And again, we realize the possible errors and the biases that come with using a small sample size. To combat that and provide a little more confidence to the numbers, we have compiled a much larger data set. All of these rounds can be found at the end of the article. With the larger data set of factory loads for each of these cartridges, we can be more confident that the conclusions drawn represent the full set of round options for each cartridge. It will also give us some more piece of mind when we do look at the trends found in the graphs. And if we do find some discrepancies, it will give us some more interesting talking points.

There is something to be said about computer-generated data when it comes to comparing two cartridges. The first is that these numbers are not set in stone. If you fired these rounds from your platform, you would more than likely you’re going to see numbers that vary from what you will find here. Each gun has its own unique qualities that are going to influence the numbers. Regardless, from a comparison perspective, computer-generated data is perfect for looking objectively at two cartridges and it removes environmental influences.

Recoil

The recoil of a cartridge is going to be important to a lot of shooters, especially those with not a lot of shooting experience. For more experienced hunters, most hunting cartridges, including the .270 and .308, the recoil is going to be manageable. It is important to note that what we are comparing here is straight recoil energy. The “felt recoil” involves a lot more factors than just the type of cartridge used. Still, looking at the actual energy still gives you a lot of valuable information and it loosely correlated to felt recoil.

If we simply look at the average recoil energy generated by these two cartridges and given by the ballistic calculator software, we see that the .270 and .308 are very similar (Graph 1).

While the .308 produces slightly more recoil energy (21.7ft.lb compared to 19.6ft.lb), it probably isn’t anything significant, especially to more experienced shooters.

Of course, with different types of rounds for these two cartridges, there will be certain rounds that might be more significantly different. Let’s take a look at the ten rounds we have selected for this article and see if the trend continues (Graph 2).

We took some liberties in making this graph. We used a common grain powder load for each cartridge type that we determined from Nosler load data as well as assumed that the cartridge was being fired from a 7lb weapon. So, these numbers could fluctuate a little based on changing those variables, and we do not have the powder charge that is used by the manufacture of the round. Even with these various variables, we have kept everything as constant as possible, and the trends that we see should hold up. For the muzzle velocity, we used the data provided by the manufacturer so take that with a grain of salt as well.

Just from looking at these ten different rounds, it’s pretty obvious that there is not a whole lot of difference between the two different cartridges. We see a significant drop in recoil with the lower grain bullets than the heavier bullets which is expected, for both cartridge types. If we look at the heavier grains for each, we still see that the recoil energy is pretty similar. All of the .308 rounds do show a slight increase in recoil energy than the .270 rounds, but again, we don’t think these differences are enough to choose one cartridge over the other based on recoil. Though the differences are slight overall, we can pick out certain rounds where there is a 4 or 5ft.lb increase in recoil energy from a .270 to .308 round.

Let’s take a look at the recoil numbers with more rounds added to the group and see if the same results present themselves.

Average Recoil (ft.lb)

.308 Winchester.270 Winchester 22.1519.56

We see that the averages of the two cartridges is still pretty close with less than 3ft.lb of force difference between the two. If you look at the individual rounds (not shown) you would see a lot of overlap between these cartridges around the 20ft.lb area. There are definitely more .308 Win rounds above that mark and there are definitely more .270 Win rounds below that mark, as the averages imply. With so much overlap, we don’t think there is any significant difference between these two cartridges when it comes to recoil. If you’re dead set on choosing a cartridge or specific round to get a little recoil as possible, there are more options for lighter rounds with the .270 Win but the majority of the factory loads for both cartridges are in the 20ft.lb plus or minus 2 range.

Ballistics

In this section, we will look at several ballistic properties of these two cartridges. What we will see is that there are quite a few similarities between these two cartridges as well as some small but significant differences. This information will allow us to begin teasing apart which situations will be better suited for a particular cartridge.

We will take compare the velocity, ballistic coefficients, and the short and long-range trajectories of the two cartridges. Though we will look at each of these categories separately from the other, in reality, all of them influence and play off of one another. That not only pertains to the ballistic categories but other performance categories as well. So while this method for comparing the .270 vs .308 is cleaner, all of these different aspects should be taken together to give you an idea of which cartridge is going to be better suited for specific applications. We hope to bring all this together more clearly in the application discussion later in the article.

For now, let’s jump into these ballistic categories.

Velocity

The velocity of the bullet is going to play a major role in the trajectory, which in turn, is going to determine the number of adjustments needed to make when taking shots at extended ranges. Velocity is also important to hunters because it also influences terminal ballistics and how well the bullet will expand and transfer kinetic energy to the target.

If we look at our comparison of the ten different rounds we have used we can see some general trends (Graph 3).

For the most part, the .270 rounds have a higher average muzzle velocity than the .308 rounds with close to 330ft.s more than the .308 rounds. Several of the .270 rounds have quite a bit higher velocity, especially the 130gr rounds, and that makes sense given the casing capacity. With similar powder loads and lighter bullets, you would expect higher velocities. While there are some rounds from each cartridge that are pretty similar in velocity, the trend of the .270 rounds having an average of 200-300ft.sec more velocity than the .308 rounds extends out to the 500-yard mark.

Another important concept to take away from this graph is that all of these rounds remain supersonic all the way out to 500 yards. Furthermore, if we were to extend this range we would see this trend continue for several hundred more yards. This tells us that these rounds are going to have enough velocity for efficient terminal ballistic characteristics.

While we might give the edge to some of the .270 rounds for velocity, especially muzzle velocity, we will see that this similarity doesn’t always translate to other ballistic characteristics and we will look at those stats and discuss the reasoning in the next several sections.

Let’s see if the higher muzzle velocities of the .270 Win rounds holds up when we add more rounds to the group.

Average Velocity (ft/s)

Yards.308 Win.270 Win Muzzle27332963.3 1002521.52731.45 20023202517.8 30021822309.85 4001946.52114.6 50017751930

With the larger data set, we still see the same trend of the .270 Win rounds bringing higher velocities than the .308 Win rounds. While the difference between the averages is not as great, we are still seeing close to 200fps or a little less than that from the muzzle out to the 500-yard mark. The rate at which both cartridges bleed velocity doesn’t seem to be significant.

While we are discussing velocity, we also want to take a look at how long the bullets of these cartridges can remain in supersonic flight. Both of these cartridges have been used for long-range shooting scenarios though they might not be the most popular rounds in today’s competitions. And from a hunting perspective, we have already seen that both remain supersonic through the distances that are applicable to hunting shots.

Still, for the sake of being thorough, we wanted to see how the two compare in this category. A lot of marksmen want to know this metric because when a bullet falls below supersonic speeds, their flight becomes more unstable, and the difficulty of being accurate increases substantially.

Average Supersonic Limit (Yards)

.308 Winchester.270 Win 1023.71101.25

From the averages above, we see that the .270 Win rounds stay at supersonic speeds for about 80 yards further than the .308 Win rounds. We’re not sure if this is a big enough difference for you to start leaning one way or the other. We do know that there is a lot of variance between the individual rounds, but the top-performing rounds in this category are .270 Win factory loads. There are several .308 Win rounds that break the 1000 yard mark, but much less often when compared to the .270 Win.

Ballistic Coefficient (BC)

The ballistic coefficient (BC) is a term that elicits a lot of attention from hunters and marksmen, or it’s a term that they don’t know a whole lot about. The theories and physics behind the ballistic coefficient can get a little out there, so we are going to simplify it in this article.

The BC is simply a rating that is derived from an equation that uses multiple cartridge/bullet variables. What this number tells you is how well the bullet resists wind drag and wind drift throughout its flight path and gives you an idea of how well a bullet will be able to cut through air and wind resistance. The higher the ballistic coefficient, the less drag, and influence this resistance will have on the traveling bullet. For shots taken at extended ranges, a higher BC often means fewer adjustments will have to be made to get the bullet on target. The ballistic coefficient is not everything when it comes to having a true flying bullet. While we think it has a large role in making difficult shots easier, don’t make the error of thinking that if a bullet has a high BC, that it is going to do all the work for you or replace experience and skill.

So, let’s take a look at the ballistic coefficients of the ten rounds we are comparing (Graph 4).

Again, there can be a lot of variance on the BC from one round to the next of the same cartridge depending on bullet design. Both of these cartridges have rounds that exhibit BCs around the .5 range and also low BCs in the .3 range. It’s a good example of how bullet design is the driving factor in this category. There are some trends between cartridge types though. The .270 is a more aerodynamic round but the .308 rounds a slightly heavier which helps them resist drag and crosswinds.

If we take the average of the given rounds, we see that the .270 has a slight advantage with only a hundredth of a difference. We also have selected some pretty high-performing .308 rounds. This is also an example of how bringing in more rounds might give us a clearer picture. From our research, the general trend of .270 rounds having higher ballistic coefficients on average holds up.

What you should take away from this section is what the BC means, as stripped-down as we made it, and the understanding that between these two cartridges, the BC can vary pretty wildly with high and low-performing rounds for each.

To be more confident that this trend is the norm, let’s take a look at the average BC for these two cartridges with larger sample groups.

Average Ballistic Coefficient

.308 Winchester.270 Winchester 0.4340.438

These two numbers are pretty dang similar. With only four thousandths of a difference between the two averages, it doesn’t make much sense to make a choice between these two cartridges based solely on the ballistic coefficient. We will say that if you look at each individual round for each cartridge, you’re going to find quite a range in the BCs for both. There are high and low BC rounds for both the .308 Win and the .270 Win. If you’re planning on shooting either of these at more extreme ranges, you will need to take into account other performance factors other than the BC alone.

Trajectory

For hunters and competition shooters alike, the trajectory of a round is characteristic that garners a lot of attention and scrutiny. As most of you know, the laws of physics work on a flying bullet and rather than fly in a perfectly straight line, the flight path takes on a parabola shape. As the bullet moves downrange, it loses altitude. The more pronounced this bullet drop, the more difficult it is to make adjustments to shot placement.

For any round of any cartridge type, you want to see a flat trajectory with minimal bullet drop. Before we look at the short and long-range trajectories of these two cartridges, we wanted to take a broad outlook at the trajectory of only two rounds. We selected a round from each cartridge that are from the same manufacturer, have the same bullet design, are of similar bullet weights, and have similar ballistic coefficients (Graph 5).

We can see in this graph that there is no noticeable difference between the two rounds to the 200-yard mark. From the 200 to 400-yard mark we see the .270 round show a flatter trajectory though even here, there are only 5 inches of difference at its greatest margin.

Moving on to to the 500-yard mark, the difference increases with the .270 round showing 10 inches less bullet drop than the .308 round. Let’s expand upon this and see if we continue to see this trend when we examine more rounds with various bullet weights, designs, and BCs.

Short Range Trajectory 270 vs 308

The short-range trajectory is always important to look at. Especially when it is coming from a hunting perspective where a lot of shots are taken at 300 yards or less.

We have gathered the bullet drop data from the various manufacturers where the zero variable was set at 100 yards. Measurements were taken out to the 300-yard mark (Graph 6).

At the 200-yard mark, we do see the rounds from each cartridge begin to group with the .270 rounds showing a slightly flatter trajectory than the .308 rounds. There is a little overlap between the two cartridges here, and the averages of both show a difference of one inch. Even if we look at the two rounds with the largest difference in bullet drop between the .270 and .308, that difference is only 2.7 inches.

This difference in trajectory widens slightly as the bullets move out to the 300-yard mark. At this distance, the average drop of the .270 rounds is 11.6 inches while the average drop of the .308 rounds is 14.68 inches. And while there are still some rounds for both cartridges that hang around the middle of the pack, the difference in trajectory between individual rounds expands quite a bit from the 300-yard mark.

From this graph, it does seem that the .270 rounds show a flatter trajectory at short range than the .308. The extent of this difference may or may not be enough for you to decide one way or the other. In our eyes, both of these cartridges would be more than effective at 300 yards.

Average Bullet Drop (Inches) at Short Range

Yards.308 Win.270 Win 50-0.125-0.175 10000 200-4-3.14 300-14.5-11.91 400-32.8-27.38

While the differences are not too dramatic between these two cartridges, we still see the trend of the .270 Win having a flatter trajectory than the .308 Win. While less than an inch difference at 200 yards, nearly four inches at 300 yards, and a little more than five inches at 400 yards, might not seem like much, it can easily be the difference between success and failure. Of course, these are just averages and there are definitely .308 rounds that perform above the average. These numbers do corroborate the trends we saw in our graph.

Long Range Trajectory

When looking at the .270 vs .308, we have to examine the long-range trajectory of these cartridges. Both of these have a history in long-range performance in an assortment of applications. Like the short-range trajectory, this data originates from the manufacturer where the zero setting was set at 200 yards and the measurements taken out to 500 yards (Graph 7).

The general trend of the long-range data between these two cartridges is very similar to what we saw with the short-range trajectory. At the 300 yard mark, the difference between the average bullet drop of these two cartridges is nearly identical. If we look at individual rounds, there are several .270 rounds that show two to three inches less bullet drop than some of the .308 rounds.

At 400 yards, the margin widens with a four-inch difference in bullet drop between the .270 and .308 rounds. It is more clear at this range where the rounds for each cartridge begin to group. You can see that the flattest shooting rounds belong to the .270 while the rounds showing the steepest drop are .308 cartridges. There is some middle ground where the .270 and .308 have rounds that behave very similarly.

At the 500 yard mark, we see the same pattern but it is much more distinct. At this point the difference between the two cartridges is right at 10 inches. If you begin picking out individual rounds, you can find some huge differences between .270 and .308 rounds where the .308 round shows between fifteen and twenty more inches of bullet drop

While it appears that the .270 has rounds with a distinct advantage in long-range trajectory, there are .308 rounds that are more than capable of being used at these ranges. And if you have hunting in mind, the trajectory doesn’t mean much if the bullet can’t bring down the game quickly which leads us to our next section.

Average Bullet Drop (Inches) at Long Range

Yards.308 Win.270 Win 10021.6 20000 300-8.5-7.21 400-24.7-21.4 500-50.3-42.7 700-137.6-111.3 1000-401.6-347

When we look at the numbers for our larger data set, we see the same trends as previously. The .270 Win, on average, has less bullet drop than the .308 Win. In this table, we have actually extended the range out to a 700 and 1,000-yard marker. At these ranges, the difference between these two cartridges really becomes apparent. With 26 inches of difference at the 700-yard mark and 54 inches of difference at 1,000 yards, the .270 has the advantage in trajectory. And as we state in just about every category, this doesn’t mean there are not .308 factory loads out there that will perform above the average, but it might be hard to find a factory load that can match the average of the .270 at 500+ yards.

Stopping Power

For hunting cartridges, the stopping power is one of the more important performance characteristics. You don’t want to spend the night tracking through the woods after an injured animal because the bullet didn’t have enough power to drop it cleanly. For those who are more interested in long-range shooting, this section might not carry the weight the ballistics section has. Regardless, there is no harm in knowing as much about your cartridge of choice as possible.

There are several components to stopping power of a particular cartridge. Two of these components that we will look at are the kinetic energy that is associated with the bullet as it travels downrange and the how well the bullet penetrates the target.

Energy

The energy or force (ft.lb) that is associated with a bullet on its flight path is transferred to the target on impact and can cause a tremendous amount of damage to surrounding tissue and organs which makes this component of stopping power important to examine. You will often see the loose guidelines for how much energy is needed to harvest specific animals. For most medium-size game, 1,000ft.lbs of energy is the recommended amount, and this increases the larger the animal gets. While we agree that energy is important, we also think shot placement is as important if not more. It’s also important to remember that expansion of the bullet is also important is this allows the maximum amount of energy to transfer to the target.

Let’s examine the stopping power of our ten rounds and see if we can spot any major talking points (Graph 8).

Both cartridges have a tremendous amount of energy at shorter distances, over 2,500ft.lb average muzzle energy for both. They also tend to bleed energy at the same rate as they move downrange as the differences between the averages remain within 50ft.lbs of energy throughout the 500 yards. Both cartridges and their five rounds have over 1,000ft.lbs of energy out at the 500-yard mark, and we also see that there is not really any patterns when it comes to each cartridge grouping together. There is a lot of overlap between the two cartridges with both of them having rounds that carry a significantly more amount of energy while others fall behind.

This is one of the main reasons when looking at the .270 vs .308, why the .270 is favored for hunting large game where shots are taken at increased distance. With the flatter trajectory and stopping power that is nearly identical to the larger .308 bullets at long range, a lot of people feel more confident in taking shots at game at a distance with the .270 over the .308.

But, before we take that to the bank, let’s see if those trends hold up when we take a look at a larger sample of rounds for these cartridges.

Average Bullet Kinetic Energy (ft.lbs)

Yards.308 Win.270 Win 027232676.4 1002319.92276.6 2001966.51932.65 3001657.91623.88 4001389.71372.45 5001109.51117.6

For the most part, we see a lot of the same results with the larger data set. The .308 Win has anywhere between 30 to 50 more ft.lbs of energy from the muzzle out to 300 yards. What is a little different now that we have more rounds is that the rate at which the .308 Win rounds bleed KE is a little steeper than the .270 Win rounds. We see this the most at the 400 and 500 yard marker where the .308 Win only has about 17 more ft.lbs of KE and then less KE than the .270 Win rounds at the 500 yard mark.

Penetration (Sectional Density)

Testing rounds on ballistic gels are one method of testing the penetration between two cartridges though how well a gel simulates a bull elk is up for debate. How we will compare the penetration of these two rounds is to look at the sectional densities (SD) of the bullets as it allows us to look at the two cartridges rather than the differences between bullet styles. These numbers are not going to tell you how deep a bullet will penetrate. It is going to give us an idea of the potential of each round had has for penetration.

The sectional density of a bullet is derived from the bullet’s weight and diameter and correlates to its penetration. The higher the SD of a bullet, the deeper penetration it will show. Other factors such as velocity and bullet design also play a role in penetration, but we will mostly keep the conversation on sectional density.

So, let’s take a look at the sectional densities of the ten rounds we have been using for comparison and see if any trends emerge (Graph 9).

Before we discuss any differences and trends that we see between the .270 vs .308 in sectional density we want to take a look at two rounds of the different cartridges that share the same bullet weight to show how sectional density can differ based on the variables that go into calculating the sectional density.

The 150gr .270 round shows a higher sectional density and depending on the bullet type, better penetration than the 150gr .308 rounds. The reason for this is the smaller diameter of the .270 allows more force to be localized to a smaller area and helps push the bullet deeper.

If we step back and look at the two cartridges, we see some pretty interesting results. The first is how varied the sectional densities of the .270 rounds appear. If you notice, the two rounds with SDs of .279 are the heavier 150gr bullets. Overall, the heavier bullet weights of the .308 rounds are what give the .308 cartridge a slightly higher average when it comes to the sectional density. Though the .308 on average has a higher SD here, there are .270 rounds, as we have highlighted, that have similar or better SD numbers.

Let’s take a look at the average SDs for our larger data set.

Average Sectional Density

.308 Winchester.270 Winchester 0.2480.269

Interestingly, when looking at more rounds, we see that the .270 Win takes a pretty big leap over the .308 Win. We already know that the .270 Win rounds have a smaller diameter than the .30 cal cartridge and when we added in more rounds, they contained quite a few heavier rounds that bumped up the average. What should be taken away here is that both of these cartridges have rounds that are going to range in sectional density. And there is a reason that sectional density is not used as the sole metric to determine potential penetration. Let’s move on and look at a second metric for this category,

Penetration (Momentum)

Bullet momentum is another factor that goes into stopping power and is always involved in the arguments for the best indicator for stopping power. When we look at these numbers, we are addressing how well a bullet is able to stay in motion when faced with resistance. Whether that is an obstacle in the flight path or the hide and bone of a game animal, momentum gives you an idea of how well the bullet can overcome these obstacles.

From a hunting perspective, momentum is a good indicator for potential penetration, like sectional density, and really goes hand in hand with it. Bullets with the same momentum and same mass but different sectional densities will have different penetration results. Smaller diameter bullet is going to penetrate deeper because less resistance is encountered. This scenario is also omitting bullet design, which in real-world scenarios, is just as important as any of the data we are looking at.

Momentum is a function of the bullet’s mass and its velocity and since we have looked at both, you should already have an idea of how these two cartridges will look in comparison to each other.

We have calculated the bullet momentum for our ten selected rounds and graphed them below from the muzzle out to 500 yards (Graph 10).

There is quite a lot to talk about after looking at the graph. The first is that the .308 Win rounds, at least the majority of them, leave the muzzle with a around an average of 6lb/ft.s more momentum than the .270 Win rounds. As the rounds move downrange, we do see the .308 Win rounds start to lose momentum at a faster rate than the .270 Win rounds.

By the time the rounds reach the 300-yard mark, there is only 4lb/ft.s of momentum difference between the rounds of the different cartridges. By the 500 yard marker, there is right at 3.5lb/ft.s difference in momentum between the two cartridges.

The rounds of each cartridge do group together pretty tightly until they get out to the 500-yard marker. But even before then, we do see some rounds that deviate a little from the rest of the rounds of their respective cartridge.

Let’s take a look at the averages of our larger sample size and see if the same trend persists.

Average Bullet Momentum (lb/ft.s)

Yards.308 Win.270 Win Muzzle64.158 10059.153.3 20054.449 30049.945.5 40045.741.5 50041.738.6

The data that we have from the large sample is almost exactly the same as the averages from the smaller sample size. We see the .308 Win rounds carrying on average more momentum than the .270 but as they move downrange, we see the .270 Win rounds gaining ground. More like the .308 Win rounds are losing ground.

Accuracy

Accuracy has more to do with the quality of the firearm and the user more so than the cartridge. And while we don’t think ballistics can rectify user error, we do think that certain ballistic characteristics can help you be more accurate on a consistent basis.

We have seen the flatter trajectory of the .270 versus the .308, and that may play a role in it being more accurate, especially at ranges over 300 yards. Within that range, there will be little if any difference in the accuracy of the two based on bullet drop from the .270 v. .308. And if you go back and look at the differences in bullet drop at long ranges you will see that there are .308 rounds that are more than capable of 400 and 500-yard shots.

We have also examined the ballistic coefficients of the two cartridges. From looking at that information, we saw that while the .270 had a slightly higher average BC than the .308, the .308 had rounds with similar and even higher BCs than the .270. In this case, it seemed that the BC relied more on the individual round than a difference between cartridges.

Regarding recoil, we have seen that both cartridges generate a similar amount of energy, so we don’t think that distinguishes either of the two cartridges regarding accuracy.

Price and Availability

Both of these cartridges are pretty popular in the United States. You might have a little better selection of .270 rounds when searching around a retail store than the .308, but generally, you are not going to have an issue finding these rounds and finding various types of ammunition for each.

As for price, it can vary pretty wildly depending on the make of the ammunition. Just take a look at the ten rounds that we have looked at in this article. You can find a case of .308 for twenty bucks and a box down the aisle might be forty dollars. The same can go for the .270. Based on their hunting use, we don’t see any real difference in price between the two. Not enough for you to choose one over the other anyway.

AmmunitionPrice (20 Rounds) 270 Hornady SST Superperformance 130gr$41.99 270 Federal Vital-Shok Nosler Partition 150gr$57.99 270 Remington Core-Lokt PSP 115gr$26.99 270 Winchester Ballistic Silvertip 130gr$41.99 270 Federal Sierra GameKing BTSP 150gr$33.99 308 Hornady BTHP Match 168gr$37.99 308 Winchester Super-X 180gr$27.99 308 Nosler Ballistic Tip 165gr$43.99 308 Federal Vital-Shok Ballistic Tip 150gr$39.99 308 Federal Gold Medal Sierra Matchking 175gr$36.99

Applications

As we come to a close with this comparison, we want to bring all the information we have examined and use it to start trying to figure out if there are scenarios where one cartridge might be better suited than the other, or maybe applications where you can’t really go wrong with either of them. For convenience, we have also included the average tables for the various performance categories below.

We think that both of these cartridges make excellent hunting options though there are hunting situations where one might be better suited than the other. So, in regards to the .270 vs .308 debate, let’s look at some of these applications.

For recoil, it’s a wash between these two cartridges. Both have a bit of a kick, but for hunters and marksman with a little experience it’s nothing you haven’t felt before, and it shouldn’t impact your shot in the field. Besides, with that adrenaline pumping, you’re not going to feel it anyway.

For small game hunting, the .270 is a much better option. This is just due to the availability of lighter grain bullets. Hitting small game with a heavy grain .308 is not going to leave anything behind and is just overkill and a waste of money.

For large game, both cartridges have the stopping power to take large game at under 300 yards and even further when in the right hands. They can both take medium-sized game at 500 yards without an issue in regards to energy. As for the penetration potential of these cartridges, the .270 Win rounds had slightly better SDs than the .308 Win rounds but the .308 Win rounds brought a little more momentum, especially at the more common hunting ranges out to 400 yards. With both cartridges excelling slightly at different categories, we don’t think there is really much of a difference in how well the two will penetrate from the standpoint of these numbers. You will definitely need to take it round by round regardless of the cartridge and pay a lot of attention to how the bullet is going to react on impact.

For larger game such as deer and elk, both cartridges have enough stopping power at short range to drop animals cleanly. The .270 might be a better option when dealing with shots that are over 400 yards. There are some .308 rounds out there that perform well at these distances as well, but generally, the .270 would be the better choice. And this has nothing to do with energy or penetration, but rather the ballistics.

The big reason why the .308 is not favored in long-range shooting is the heaviness of the bullets and the trajectory. For large game at increased distances, the .308 is just harder to put on target in the kill zone. If you can, it will drop game, but for all but the best marksman, you are more than likely only going to wound the animal and never find it. And when we are talking about extended ranges we mean 400+ yards. And as we have stated several at several points, it’s not that we are saying it is impossible, we are just saying that the ballistics lean towards the .270 in this situation.

For general long-range shooting, a lot of the above discussion is pertinent here as well. The .270, on average, has higher velocities than the .308 which a lot of long-range shooters will be key on. Like all the other categories there are some .308 rounds that are similar, but there are several .270 rounds that outperform all of the .308 rounds we have looked at. The same goes for the BCs of these rounds. While the .270 rounds might have a slightly higher BC on average than the .308, it seems to depend on the individual round. Both have rounds with high enough BCs for some long-range action.

Best Rounds

Before we wrap up this article, we want to re-examine the ten rounds we have been comparing and pick a round from each cartridge that we think will excel in certain situations. This is just our opinion, and it doesn’t mean that we think our picks are the only option out there to take care of your business.

Top Hunting Round

The Federal Vital-Shok Nosler Partition 150gr is one of our favorite hunting rounds for the .270 cartridge. This round has nearly 2,000ft.s velocity at 500 yards which is more than enough to get the correct terminal ballistics. That paired with bullet energy greater than 1,500ft.lbs at 400 yards give this round excellent stopping power. We also like the heavier grain bullet that can get penetration on larger game. The long-range trajectory for this round is not as flat as other .270 rounds but it is still manageable at 400 yards and to be honest, any range after that we are not concerned with when it comes to hunting.

For the .308 Win, we like the Nosler Ballistic Tip 165gr. This is another excellent option for medium to larger game. The bullet energy is the highest of the selected .308 rounds with 1,300ft.lbs of energy at the 500-yard mark which is enough for even larger game at that range. With proper shot placement, this round still has the energy and the velocity to make a clean kill. Anything within that yard mark is no issue. For the .308 rounds, it has one of the best long-range trajectories where a 300-yard shot is no problem in the right hands, and 400 yards is even manageable.

Top Range Round

Our tope range round for the .270 is the 130gr Winchester SST Superperformance. This round excels in the velocity category with over 2,200ft.sec at 500 yards and will remain supersonic for several hundred yards beyond that mark. The BC of this round might not be as high as long-range shooters would like to see, but the flat trajectory might compensate for this with a bullet drop of only 33 inches at 500 yards. That’s pretty impressive for a factory load. This round is a bit more expensive compared to the other .270 factory loads that we have looked at, but it gives you the best long-range performance.

For our top .308 Win range round we like the 168gr Hornady BTHP Match. This round is affordable which is an important consideration when you plan burning through quite a few out on the range. This round has a great BC for .308 rounds (.45), and when paired with the velocity and long-range trajectory, you have an excellent round for precision shooting. The bullet drop is more pronounced than the small weight .270 rounds, but when compared to other .308 rounds, you can easily handle the 80 and 120-inch drop at the 600 and 700-yard mark.

Conclusion

When looking at the .270 vs .308, it’s difficult to draw a firm conclusion on which is the better cartridge. While they have some similar characteristics, there are differences that make them better in certain situations.

It’s a new world out there. You don’t have to be relegated to only one cartridge and feel it deserves all of your loyalty. To be a great hunter, you might need to turn to more than one cartridge on your adventures.

We hope that this article has given a clearer understanding of the two cartridges and also made clear that both are tremendous hunting cartridges that are readily available. When used in the right scenario, both the .270 and .308 are effective cartridges for bringing home game or smoking the competition on the range.

Ammunition List

A Brief History

.308 Winchester

The .308 Winchester/.308 Win/.308 was introduced in 1952 in the United States. From this cartridge, the 7.62×51 NATO round was also designed and saw brief use in the US military in Vietnam with the M14 Garand. Though its military career was short-lived, the .308 has become an extremely popular round in civilian use from its conception to modern day. And that is not to say that it cannot still be found in military or police force circles today, it certainly is, but not as ubiquitous as it once was.

The .308 shows certain performance capabilities, which we will get into in this article, that has given it a place in many sharpshooting capacities, including use with the police and some military forces. Where this cartridge has gained a strong following though is in the hunting world. This is a larger bullet with excellent range and stopping power. It’s a great medium to large game rifle and can be used for just about any large game animal in the world, barring a few.

There are a plethora of options when it comes to the .308. Cartridge and bullet design give it a lot of versatility, and it is also readily available. You will find the bullet weights of .308 cartridges to fall between 125 and 170 grain with a few outliers in both directions.

.270 Winchester

The .270 Winchester/.270 Win/.270 made its appearance in the hunting world in 1925 where it would stay in relative obscurity for a time. For several years, the .270 did not have a significant following of users. Jack O’Connor, a famous writer of firearms and hunting, really pushed this cartridge and its abilities in the field and brought it to the forefront of hunting cartridges, where it remains to this day.

The .270 has gained a huge following in the world of hunting from small varmints and predators to large American game such as sheep and deer. With a leap in bullet technology, the .270 is much better suited for taking larger game such as elk.

The .270 came from the .30-03 which saw very brief use in the United States in the early 1900’s. Another cartridge that comes from this parent case is the .30-06 which are very similar to the .270. The .270 can be thought of as a necked down version of the .30-06.

As far as bullet weights go with the .270, most ammunition is going to fall between 120-160. There are smaller weights that are available for small game. Like the .308, there is a lot of options regarding bullet weight and design, and they are readily available and affordable.