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Where to Find Big Bass

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Tom Redington travels the United States from the borders of Canada to Mexico fishing for largemouth, smallmouth and spotted bass in everything from shallow muddy rivers to crystal-clear reservoirs hundreds of feet deep.

Whether he’s running 70 mph downstream in his 21-foot Ranger boat or walking the shoreline with his 8-year-old Cub Scout son, he’s found there are key areas where bass can be located quickly.

Here are some of the top areas to search. Not all will have active fish all the time. Try a variety of these places, and you’ll hook up sooner and more consistently than by just randomly wandering about.

CURRENT BREAKS

Bass lurk around objects that block the water current. When prey struggles past while fighting the flow, bass dart out to grab an easy meal. Fallen trees, big rocks, bridge pilings, weed clumps, even garbage like an old chair — if it blocks current, bass dwell around it.

LAYDOWNS

As waves wash away the shore over the years, trees topple into lakes and rivers. Bass typically prefer horizonal cover, especially with overhead protection, and laydowns offer both. Best of all, they are easy to find and you can fish them from a boat or the shore. A small tree might hold a fish or two, while a 60-foot oak can extend out with limbs in every direction holding a whole school of fish.

RIPRAP

On lakes and rivers with soft bottoms like sand, silt or clay, crushed rock is often spread along shorelines to prevent bank erosion. This crushed rock is called “riprap,” and you commonly find it along roads and bridges that cross the water, plus around dams, marinas and homes. All the cracks and gaps in the rocks make ideal hiding and feeding places for crawdads and smaller fish — what bass call an “all-you-can-eat buffet.”

DOCKS

Again, bass love horizontal shelters that provide overhead protection. Sounds like a boat dock! Just look over the side of most any dock and you’ll see little fish swimming all around it. Hungry bass are stalking just out of sight in the shadows below.

AQUATIC VEGETATION

Lily pads, bulrushes, canes, hydrilla, weeds, grass, milfoil, cabbage … some grow up out of the water, some types grow on the surface and others stay underwater. Regardless, if it’s green and in the water, about every link the food chain will be around it. Find grass and you’ll find bass.

POINTS

A point is simply a place along the shoreline where the bank sticks out into the lake. There are two main lake points at the entrance of any creek or cove, and these are great places to try year-round. Especially in the spring and fall, shallower points along the shoreline or at the mouth of small bays or pockets can be dynamite. Some points drop very quickly into deep water, so the bass will be close to shore. Other points have a slower taper and can run hundreds of feet into the lake. Generally, bass will be shallower on points in the spring and fall, or early and late in the day. During summer and winter, especially in the middle of the day, bass hold on the deeper sections of points, anywhere from 10 to 30 feet deep (the clearer the water, the deeper the fish).

7 Deadly Techniques to Catch Chinook Salmon in Rivers

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Chinook Salmon are the king of our rivers. They are the largest salmon we catch on the Pacific Coast. And once they travel out of the ocean feeding grounds back to the river to spawn, can offer one of the most exciting fishing experiences in the Pacific Northwest. Whether you have a boat or want to fish for these giants from the river bank, I have a few winning techniques to share with you!

How to Catch Chinook Salmon in Rivers

Fishing for Chinook Salmon in rivers from the remote reaches of Alaska southbound down the Pacific Coast gives us plenty to get excited for. The northern reaches of their range brings great fishing as early as June. And as we move south towards my neck of the woods in Washington, September to November is the peak time for river fishing. Each region hosts its own favored techniques. But I can say that Oregon Chinook aren’t that much different from British Columbia Chinook. And you can’t go wrong with any of these fishing techniques throughout their entire Pacific Coast range.

Backtrolling Plugs for Chinook Salmon

Of all the boat fishing tactics, fishing with plugs is one of the most popular. A plug like a Kwikfish, Flatfish or Maglip really draws the eye of a Chinook. They wiggle and dive in the river current. Most of the time, the best fishermen will take bait wrapping thread and tie on a sliver of sardine fillet to the underside. This slows down the action of the lure and releases a heavenly scent for Chinook.

Wrapping Plugs

Chinook really get to biting when there is the perfect match of lure attraction and smell. Throughout most of their range, the wrapped bait of choice is sardine. But many of the best river Chinook fishermen will also use herring, anchovy, albacore tuna belly or sand shrimp wraps. I usually don’t deviate from sardines, but it’s worth following the local trend. Wherever you may be back trolling plugs for Chinook.

How to Fish Plugs for Chinook Salmon

Every river section can host travelling Chinook, holding Chinook or both. You can either anchor your boat in a run or hole, or slowly back troll down the stretch. You will need to judge the situation and determine what is best. If they are travelling, you can anchor with confidence and wait for them to come to you. In other situations, maneuvering your drift boat, raft or jet sled slowly down with the currents can put the plugs directly in front of Chinook and force them to either back down river or strike. Back trolling requires steady boat control, as you don’t want your plugs swinging from side to side. You want a straight track line down the current seam.

Your guys just let the wrapped Kwikfish out 40′. Why 40′? Because that’s what you decided, and of course you are the captain so they better damned well do as you say! You slowly back down the current through the run. The right rod closest to the steep bank starts pulling hard from a Chinook! Your buddy Darryl is patient and waits (what seems an eternity but in reality is only 5 seconds). The rod is doubled over and once the Chinook has turned downriver to race back to the safety of the ocean, pulling line out of the reel, Darryl grabs the rod and the battle is on! Well done Darryl! Many a weaker man would fold under pressure and yank on the fish before it is hooked properly.

Backbouncing for Chinook Salmon

You have just found a spot that looks like Chinook mecca. You anchor your boat ahead of where you think Chinook will be stacking up. Or set your guys up and slowly back down current into the zone.

The anglers have a juicy cluster of eggs, with a sliding dropper to a sinker. If the lead is too heavy it won’t back down into the zone. If it’s too light the bait won’t be in the Chinook zone along the river bottom for very long. This technique is all about the slow play. You need your bait to slowly back down right in front of the fish and give them plenty of time to see, smell and munch. You drop it down, lift the rod slightly to allow the sinker to back down another foot. Hold, lift, back down, and repeat until you are past the holding zone or get bit. The bight can feel subtle.

If the process seems painstakingly slow, you are doing it right. You let them munch. Let them eat. Then once you know they are committed, you hammer back and give the biggest hook set of your life! It’s a really fun technique and one of my favorites.

  • 2/0 to 5/0 Gamakatsu Octopus Hooks
  • 20 to 40 Pound Fluorocarbon Leader
  • Swivels and a dropper with a 1 to 6 ounce cannonball sinker, depending on current and depth
  • Salmon eggs put up with a good Egg Cure

Float Fishing for Chinook Salmon

Bobber fishing with cured salmon eggs is one of the best Chinook Salmon fishing techniques in the river’s deepest and slowest pools. Chinook will often hold in those deep spots. Most of the time, you want to have your bait as close to the river bottom as possible. Some of my favorite Chinook holes are as deep as 20′ and I want my cured eggs dredging the bottom where they are holding. A floating braided mainline is key, and you will be mending it and give control as so it doesn’t pull or push the natural drift of your float and bait. As soon as the float pulls under, I reel as fast as I can to catch up to it. I’ll follow up with a hefty hook set once the rod is bent and loaded over on a Chinook.

Drift Fishing for Chinook Salmon

I love and hate drift fishing for Chinook. I love when I find a deep and gentle run that allows me to bounce bottom with a cluster of cured salmon eggs and get bit by a Chinook. However, I hate seeing people drift fishing with beads or yarn for Chinook, where they know as well as I do that they are essentially snagging them. Drift fish with something they are going to bite! Use just enough lead to occasionally tap bottom. Knowing that your presentation is near the river bottom, in the zone. If you are trying to drag a hook into a Chinook without having them bite… Shame! Much shame! And may a curse be placed on your fishing career!

Plunking for Chinook Salmon

Plunking for Chinook is a little bit of a dying art, but in certain areas can be very effective. You find a lower river spot where you know they will be pushing up with the next high tide. You rig a juicy bait presentation. Maybe top it off with a little added float and attraction such as a Spin N Glo. The pyramid sinker is rigged off a sliding dropper. Just enough weight to anchor it in the current. The rod gets placed in a riverside rod holder. Then you sit back, sip the coffee, and wait for a grab. Best done with friends for some chit chat and jovial conversation.

Twitching Jigs for Chinook Salmon

Twitching marabou jigs used to be a very hush-hush proposition for Coho Salmon. Then the word got out. Now it’s rare to float down a river in the fall and not see everyone twitching for salmon. Chinook Salmon can be coaxed to bite if the jig is right.

Once you pitch in that jig, let it fall and then pop it up with a lift of the rod tip. Lift and fall, lift and fall. That is the name of the game. Purples and pinks tend to be the winning choice. Black and chartreuse are also a crowd favorite.

Rolling Spinners in the River for Chinook Salmon

Washington’s rivers are prime areas to roll large spinners for Coho. Chinook often times surprise us by biting them as well. Alaska anglers use spinners as a mainstay for Chinook Salmon river fishing. Down in the lower 48, a size 4 or 5 spinner is the ticket. Up North, feel free to pitch a size 5 or 6 spinner for the big boys. Cast that spinner into a slow pool or run, let it sink, and retrieve it back as slow as you possibly can. Just fast enough to get that spinner blade to spin, but no faster! Blue Fox Vibrax and Steelhead Slammer Spinners are great options!

When to Plant Buckwheat? – Buckwheat Planting Time

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when to plant buckwheat

Buckwheat can make the soil easier to till. Moreover, it can produce flour for making pancakes, and if you’re gluten-free, growing this cover crop is undoubtedly a nice thing to consider.

So when to plant buckwheat? The ideal growing season for this plant is spring, though summer and early fall are also possible. Read on for more details.

Best Time to Plant Buckwheat

1. In spring, summer, and fall

sowing-buckwheat

In fact, many people grow buckwheat during the hot months to suppress garden weeds. If you plan to do the same, make sure to irrigate the plant frequently to safeguard it against high heat.

For example, Columbia in PA has the last frost on May 5 and the first frost on October 5. As a result, the planting dates in this region are May 19 until October 4.

2. When the soil is warm, neutral or acidic, and well-drained

in-spring

In terms of temperature, the soil should be 70℉ or warmer for ideal germination. If you can’t meet this exact requirement, a range of 45 to 105℉ is acceptable.

At the same time, the garden bed should have a pH of 4 to 6 and be neither too wet nor too dry to nourish buckwheat. And because we’re talking about dampness, one factor that influences it is the soil’s drainage.

To test how quickly your garden bed releases moisture, dig a trench with a depth and width of 12 inches and pour water into it.

If the hole you dug doesn’t lose an inch of water an hour, add three to four inches of compost to the ground.

Hardiness Zones for Buckwheat Growing

buckwheat-seeds-for-planting

Buckwheat best grows in hardiness zone 3 to 7. To determine which zone you’re living in, go to planthardiness.ars.usda.gov and look up the map for your state.

For example, if you live in Greensboro in NC, your residence would fall under zone 7. On the other hand, Hancock in Iowa would be in zone 5.

Both of these areas can support buckwheat.

How to Plant Buckwheat?

buckwheat-growing

That said, it’s possible to select buckwheat seeds for planting according to your region.

As an example, the Manisoba cultivar is very popular in the Northeast of the US.

Also, note that a distribution of 55 pounds of seeds per acre will bring excellent results, whether you’re growing buckwheat as a cover crop or as produce.

Harvesting Buckwheat

growing-season

Buckwheat is ready for harvest when ¾ of the seeds are brown and ripe. To make sure this is the case, check the seeds carefully and ensure they’re not empty hulls. Otherwise, you may think you’ve reached the ¾ criterion when you haven’t.

Then, follow the steps below to harvest buckwheat:

Conclusion

When to plant buckwheat? The answer should become apparent as long as you know the frost dates where you live.

In addition, it’s essential to give your plant the right soil temperature, pH, and care. This includes adjusting the ground’s acidity and watering it when necessary, for instance.

With these tips in mind, you should be able to grow buckwheat in your garden without trouble.

Besides, you also can refer more to other topics about the best time to plant other flowers such as azaleas, allium bulbs, roses and etc.

Tested: AccuBow Training Device for 3D Archers and Bowhunters

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The muscles we use to draw a bow are used few other times in life. This product excels at working those, ultimately building them up so you can either increase draw weight or pull your current poundage with more ease. (Josh Honeycutt photo)

Being a good archer is all about consistent form, which requires muscle memory. And to build muscle memory, you need repetition through practice. Trouble is, it’s not always convenient to set up a target and shoot arrows.

Enter AccuBow, the first augmented reality archery training device, no arrows required. I tested it, and here is the lowdown.

Product Specs

Bow junkies love specs, so here’s what you need to know about the AccuBow:

  • Bow weight: 4.2 pounds
  • Draw length: 21-34 inches
  • Draw weight: 10-70 pounds (with 6.5 rotation dial revolutions)
  • Axle-to-axle length: 32.25 inches
  • MSRP: $169.99 (AccuBow only) / $224 (phone mount and warranty included)

Personally, I like that this bow feels real. At a little over 4 pounds and 32 inches axle to axle, it’s the same size as a modern hunting bow, with a pragmatic shape and style. It isn’t going to feel like your new Mathews Vertix, but it’s designed to be as realistic as possible, which makes practicing with it more effective.

Gear Included

  • The main unit
  • D-loop attachment for your release aid
  • Dry-fire dampening rod
  • Hand grip (like most modern, ergonomic grips)
  • Laser sight (not legal for real bowhunting, mind you)
  • Level bubble
  • Resistance band (bow string)
  • Resistance dial (bow cam)
  • Stabilizer port (accepts real stabilizers)
  • Phone mount accessory (fits most smart phones)
  • AccuBow app (digital download)

There are other (non-AccuBow) apps that seem to be the right one in the App Store and Google Play, but are actually wrong. The correct one is shown above. (AccuBow photo)The available phone mount accessory is for virtual archery practice. It’s easy to install. The bracket rests at a 45-degree angle, meaning the phone will be horizontal during use. You may have to remove some phones — such as the iPhone plus models — from the case for them to fit. But in most cases, that OtterBox case in Realtree EDGE will look pretty as you shoot digital bucks, buffs and bushytails.

Key Features

Augmented reality is a key feature of the AccuBow, and it adds a little spice to the practice regimen. I really enjoyed it. It allows you to practice virtual bowhunting, target archery and more with an incorporated scoring system so you can compete with yourself, and track your performance over time. I think this is a key feature that’s especially important for youth and new bowhunters.

The practice modes include:

  • Bowhunting
  • Bowfishing
  • Bow sight customization
  • Olympic target shooting
  • Moving target

The hunting modes have a variety of real-life challenges that include elements like wind direction, wind speed, big deer and more. They make the practice realistic, and even introduce a touch of adrenaline. If you choose to use your phone and phone mount, download the AccuBow app, available on the iPhone App Store and Google Play for Android phones. It’s user-friendly.

Special Considerations/Takeaways

Keep the following in mind if you decide to purchase an AccuBow:

  1. Laser activation: Unscrew the laser assembly from the AccuBow. Remove its battery cover, and then pull the battery isolator tab. Replace the cover and reinstall to activate the laser.
  2. Phone mount: In some cases, this is sold separately. Check to see if the phone mount is included before purchasing. This phone mount expands to secure most iPhone and Android models.
  3. Adjustments, maintenance and repair: Be very careful anytime you’re working with the inner components. Handle the resistance dial with care.

The AccuBow is decidedly appropriate for those who suffer from target panic. It improves your focus and form and reduces the anticipation that comes with firing arrows. (Josh Honeycutt photo)

Test Conclusion: AccuBow Solves Problems

Everyone has different improvement goals. While this product is more limited in teaching proper draw form, grip and stance (without third-party instruction), it shines at teaching and reinforcing other valuable archery skills including focus, holding form, stamina, stability and strength. The laser pointer training technique helps you to see whether or not you’re aiming properly. It is a great tool for shooters with target panic, as it improves your focus and form, but reduces the anticipation that comes from firing arrows.

Repetition is the key to archery practice, and the AccuBow works indoors or outdoors, day or night. I tested it inside and it worked just fine. I didn’t even annoy my wife during the process. In fact, she tried it out for herself and put her own stamp of approval on it.

This product impressed me most in the strength-building department, though. The muscles we use to draw a bow are specialized, and the AccuBow excels at working those, ultimately building them up so you can either increase draw weight or pull your current poundage with more ease. I noticed a small strength increase during the short test period.

Adjustability makes the AccuBow versatile and great for most age groups. Go to AccuBow.com for more information. Click here for tutorials and instructional videos.

Don’t Miss: Tested: Midway USA Stealth Clothing Line

Check out more stories, videos and educational how-to’s on bowhunting.

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Do BSA Still Make Air Rifles?

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Yes, BSA still make air rifles in Birmingham, in their original factory.

BSA air rifles are a superior choice for your shooting arsenal. These highly respected and tradition-rich weapons were created in Britain, where they have been manufactured locally since 1861 by the Birmingham Small Arms Company LTD – or simply “B Sag” as it is known to its fans!

The company’s trademarked logo shows three crossed guns which signify exceptional performance at only one glance; something no other brand can match because of their premium reputation among shooters all over the world who want nothing but excellence from what they use for shooting.

BSA official website:

https://bsaguns.co.uk/

do-bsa-still-make-air-rifles

BSA Brand History Highlights:

  • BSA, or Birmingham Small Arms, is a gun company formed in 1861.
  • The company won its first government contract in 1864 and has been a pillar of the gun industry ever since.
  • Its operations were critical to the WW1 and WW2 war efforts, making 1.25 million Lee Enfield .303 rifles, over half a million .303 Browning machine guns, and 60,000 7.92mm BESA machine guns.
  • Since 1985 it has been owned by Spanish company Gamo which sensibly elected to keep the BSA brand which today encompasses some of the best spring, gas ram, and pre-charged pneumatic air rifles available.

WHICH BSA AIR RIFLE IS FOR ME?

BSA’s range is one of the widest on the market covering PCP, spring, and gas-powered models to suit just about budget and shooting discipline from target shooting and hunting to back garden plinking. Its PCP range includes both buddy bottle and air cylinder rifles, single-shot and multi-shot options, and traditional rifle and bullpup designs with plenty of stock options on all models.

BEST BSA AIR RIFLE ALTERNATIVES

When it comes to PCPs, BSA’s main competition comes from other established brands like Air Arms, Brocock, Daystate, Benjamin, Gamo, Air Venturi, FX, and Weihrauch.

(For more on the best PCP air rifle on the market, see this post)

Types Of Fishing Swivels (And How To Choose The Right One)

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When you’re fishing, you need to use the right equipment to make sure you have the best chance of catching a fish. One important piece of equipment is the swivel. Swivels allow your line to spin freely, which helps reduce tangles and keeps your bait from getting twisted up. In this article, we will discuss the different types of fishing swivels and how to choose the right one for your needs!

What Is A Fishing Swivel?

A fishing swivel is a small metal device consisting of a pivoting joint in the middle, and two metal rings attached at the ends. The metal rings are connected to the joint with an anchor inserting into the joint, which allows them to rotate freely in any direction.

The main advantage of fishing swivels is that they prevent line twist when you’re fishing with a lure or a rig that tends to rotate in the water. The most common examples of this would be inline spinners and metal spoons, which rapidly rotate during retrieval, and thus quickly end up twisting your fishing line if you use them without a swivel.

A second advantage provided by fishing swivels is that they often come with a snap attached to one end, which makes it very convenient to switch out your lure or leader line quickly while fishing.

Because of these key advantages, fishing swivels are present in most fishing rigs used by anglers. Now let’s take a closer look at the different types of fishing swivels, and how to choose the right one.

What Are The Main Types Of Fishing Swivels?

The 5 main types of fishing swivels are:

  • Barrel swivels
  • Ball-bearing swivels
  • Snap swivels
  • Three-way swivels
  • Finesse swivels

Together, these 5 swivel types cover more than 90% of all fishing applications where fishing swivels are used, and so are plenty to get you started. Let’s take a closer look at each of them below.

Barrel Swivel

Barrel SwivelThe barrel swivel is the original fishing swivel, and simply consists of a pivoting joint with two rings attached to either end. The joint in the middle is usually round, or sometimes a small barrel.

While barrel swivels are very cheap and easy to use, they don’t prevent line twist very effectively, since their rings don’t rotate as efficiently as those of a ball-bearing swivel.

See Barrel Swivels On Amazon | See On Walmart

Ball-bearing Swivel

Ball Bearing SwivelA ball-bearing swivel is an improved version of the barrel swivel, and comes with a ball bearing inside the pivoting joint. Due to this ball bearing, the rings of the swivel rotate much more freely than those of a standard barrel swivel, and thus prevent line twist more effectively.

The main downside of ball-bearing swivels is that they are considerably more expensive than barrel swivels. Because of this, one option is to use them only when you’re fishing with a lure type that generates a lot of line twist.

See Ball-bearing swivels On Amazon | See On Walmart

Snap Swivel

Snap SwivelA snap swivel is an improved version of the barrel swivel that comes with a snap attached to one end, instead of the regular ring. The most common way to use a snap swivel is to tie your main fishing line to the ring of the swivel, and then use the snap to attach to the ring of a lure.

The great thing about using a snap swivel is that you can easily exchange the lure for another one at any time, which is much faster and easier than retying the line every time you want to change your lure.

See Snap Swivels On Amazon | See On Walmart

Three-way Swivel

As its name suggests, a three-way swivel consists of a pivoting joint that has three rings attached to it instead of two. The advantage of this setup is that you can add a separate leader line to one of the rings with a weight attached to the end of it.

The leader line used to attach the weight is usually weaker than the main line, which means that if the weight gets snagged on the bottom, it’s fairly easy to break it off without losing the rest of your tackle.

Three-way swivels are most commonly used for trolling rigs, since they allow you to troll a heavy weight close to the bottom without worrying too much about getting snagged.

Finesse Swivel

Finesse SwivelThe finesse swivel is a relatively new swivel type that’s used for fishing with a drop shot rig. It consists of a hook that is directly attached to the swivel, and can rotate around the axis of the swivel.

While one end of the finesse swivel looks like a regular swivel ring (which is where you attach your main line), the other end looks like the clip-on ring of a drop shot weight.

The great thing about the finesse swivel is that you can use it to attach a drop shot weight via a leader line that is not directly tied to the swivel, but is instead clipped into it.

In case your weight gets snagged on the bottom, this design allows you to pull the line attached to the weight off the swivel, so you’ll only lose the weight, but not the rest of your rigging.

Swivel Sizes

Fishing swivel sizes are classified with an aught scale similar to fishing hooks, with the smallest size starting at 12, and gradually increasing as the numbers go down to size 1. After reaching size 1, swivel sizes switch to 1/0, and go up to size 12/0, which is the largest swivel size.

In general, it’s best to choose the smallest swivel size that you can get away with, since that won’t spook fish as much as an oversized swivel. For example, when fishing for trout, a size 12 swivel is most often the best choice.

However, when fishing for bigger fish with heavy lines, it’s necessary to increase the size of your swivel, since that also increases the amount of weight that the swivel can bear without breaking.

Snap Swivel Size Chart

Barrel Swivel Size Chart

What Is The Difference Between A Barrel Swivel And A Crane Swivel?

A crane swivel is an intermediate form between a barrel swivel and a ball-bearing swivel. It comes with highly polished metal parts that enable its rings to rotate better than those of a barrel swivel, but not as well as those of a ball-bearing swivel.

When in doubt, it’s usually best to opt for a ball-bearing swivel, since that guarantees the best performance. This is especially important when fishing with rotating lures, such as inline spinners and spoons.

How Do You Choose A Swivel For Fishing?

Choosing the right swivel depends on what fishing technique and what fishing lure you want to use. If you’re fishing with lures that have a heavy rotating action, it’s essential to use the best swivel you can find, which would be a ball-bearing swivel.

On the other hand, if you’re fishing with lures that don’t rotate, or with fishing rigs that don’t don’t twist up the line, you can opt for a simple barrel swivel. Also, if you want to have the flexibility of changing up your lure or presentation at any time, it makes sense to use a snap swivel, which you can use to attach a different lure or leader line very quickly.

Do Swivels Spook Fish?

In most cases, fishing swivels don’t spook fish, and you can attach them directly to your lure without any problems.

However, if you’re dealing with finicky fish, a swivel may spook them. This is most often the case when fishing in heavily pressured fisheries, where the fish have learned to avoid anything that comes with a fishing line and/or terminal tackle attached to it.

Another scenario where swivels may spook fish is when fishing in crystal clear waters, such as trout streams. And obviously the most challenging situation is when dealing with pressured fish in very clear waters.

If you find yourself in any of the situations above, you can still use a swivel, but shouldn’t attach it directly to your lure. Instead, tie a 2 to 3 foot fluorocarbon or monofilament leader between the swivel and the lure. That way, you still get the benefit of the swivel, but without spooking the fish.

When To Use a Snap Without a Swivel

Instead of using a snap swivel you can opt to use a snap without a swivel attached to it. This is a good option if your lure or rig doesn’t really generate line twist, and if you’re dealing with heavily pressure fish that spook easily (especially when fishing in very clear water).

Are Backyard Rabbits Safe To Eat

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From destroying your lawn with brown urine spots to gnawing your plants down to the root, rabbits can be too big a burden to behold. Perhaps you think the best recourse for you would be to eat them. But the big question remains, are backyard rabbits safe to eat?

Backyard rabbits are edible and safe to eat, whether they are tamed or found wandering in your yard. As long as the rabbit meat is cooked thoroughly to 160-degree Fahrenheit internal temperature to remove any toxins, they are safe to eat.

The best rabbits for meat are Silver Fox, French Angora, and American Chinchilla.

Undoubtedly, your backyard rabbit’s main concern would be to eat without getting noticed or eaten. However, that does not mean that it is not safe for you, and neither should it mean you are free to dive in. Here are a few things you will have to keep in mind about eating backyard rabbits.

Eating Backyard Rabbits

If you were to imagine the sumptuous, fine eating of this cottontail, you might not want to resist.

First, rabbit meat is edible, whether your bunny is from the wild or tamed. But before you do that, it will be best to inspect whether the bunny is healthy or not.

One of the biggest concerns is the contraction of a disease called Tularemia, which can be passed to you upon touching the affected tissue or blood. Once you see any signs of this condition, avoid the rabbit. This condition is relatively predominant during cold seasons.

Usually, it would help if you wore latex gloves while gutting the rabbit. This move ensures that you do not expose yourself to any affected tissue or blood. Further, pay attention to the liver. If there are any white lesions on it, do not proceed to eat the rabbit.

Notably, there are times that you might misread the signs. In this case, ensure that you only eat rabbit meat that has been thoroughly cooked. The internal cooking temperature should be at least 160 degrees Fahrenheit. At this temperature, your rabbit meat is safe.

Which Backyard Rabbits Are Safe

There is no denying that sometimes you will want to raise backyard rabbits for meat. If this is the case for you, ensure that you go for the best breeds.

Usually, the best rabbits for meat would be Silver Fox, French Angora, and American Chinchilla. Besides, if you were to consider eating rabbit meat, these options should top your priorities.

  • Silver Fox: Whether you want to meat, fur, or pets, this breed will be the ultimate choice for you to raise. That they have large litters is no secret. Besides being beautiful, these rabbits assure you of not only safe but also tender meat. As long as they are healthy, there will be no reason for you to worry.
  • American Chinchilla: This breed has become relatively prevalent among people who do not put attention to the fur produced. Usually, they assure you of more than enough meat, thanks to their incredibly muscular bodies. Their sweet meat will, undoubtedly, get you smitten.
  • French Angora: While this breed is specifically for meat, its rabbits hardly come with enough meat. As if that is not enough, their fur is vulnerable to matting. That means you will need to keep brushing it from time to time. You will also need to be on the lookout for chances of getting attacked by the rabbit fever.

Here are the two incredible options from the wild.

  • Cottontail Rabbits (both mountain and desert): While they come with a relatively small stature, these rabbits have proven to be excellent delicacies. Their tasty and high-quality meat will readily get you smitten. In most cases, you can hunt them from the late evening into the night, thanks to their nocturnal nature.
  • Eastern Cottontail Rabbit: There is no denying that this is the most hunted rabbit in the US, thanks to the delicacy it provides. The cotton ball tail and the reddish-brown coat are some of the features that make this beauty distinctive. Usually, it would be best for you to hunt them at night, as they are nocturnal.

If the rabbits come into your yard during a time that you aren’t home or aren’t able to catch them, check out this cheap, effective, spring loaded trap on Amazon to setup in your backyard to easily catch and prevent them from running away.

Last update on 2024-11-16 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

How To Tell If A Rabbit Is Safe To Eat

In most cases, wild rabbits come with warbles and parasites. While warbles might not pose any risk to human beings, pests and parasites could be a significant problem in the long run. For this reason, you need to be wary of rabbits that have fleas and ticks.

Besides that, you will have to check whether the rabbit has Tularemia, also known as rabbit fever. This condition could be fatal to both human beings and pets, and immediate medical attention will always suffice.

You can only check if the rabbit has this condition when eviscerating it. During this time, you will have to confirm whether there are any pin-sized lesions on the liver. The presence of these lesions shows that the rabbit is not healthy for you.

Dangers Of Eating Rabbit Meat

From how delicious rabbit meat tends to be, to how available they are, you will hardly want to resist eating them. However, there will always be a few dangers for you to keep in mind.

Unless you pay attention to these issues, you could end up unhealthy in the long run. Here are the two main dangers of eating this meat.

  • Tularemia: You can hardly ignore the impact that this condition could have on your health. In most cases, you will contract this illness when skinning the rabbit, as it is passed upon contact with affected tissues and blood. This condition will expose you to fever, chills, and body aches. Fortunately, antibiotics will be enough to treat this condition altogether.
  • De-Populating Wild Rabbits: While the rabbit population is relatively high, too much hunting could result in some species’ decline. For this reason, it would be best for you to be cautious about when and how to hunt. Perhaps, paying attention to the state regulations on hunting rabbits could be helpful in the long run.
  • Stomach Upsets: This issue will only arise if you do not cook your meat thoroughly. Experts suggest that you cook the meat to at least 160 degrees Fahrenheit. This way, the meat will be not only tender but also free from various pathogens.

Why Can’t You Eat A Rabbit In The Summer

Typically, you will be free to eat rabbit meat at any time. However, the restrictions during summer are thanks to the ease of spreading worms. Most rabbits will spread worms and parasites to other bunnies during summer, unlike when there is a drop in temperature.

However, all you need to do is to take all the necessary precautions mentioned above. It will be much easier for you to identify the presence of worms when you do so. If you do, it would be best not to eat that meat.

Is It Safe To Eat Jackrabbits

Did you know that jackrabbits are relatively akin to cottontails? While this is so, jackrabbits are typically hares.

That means that they will hardly be safe for you to eat, particularly when not cooked thoroughly. If you were to cook it accordingly, you would have no reason to worry about anything.

With their stringy meat, ensure that you take as much time as you can when cooking it. You will also need to aim at an internal temperature of over 160-degree Fahrenheit.

This way, you will be sure of eliminating all the toxins, worms, among other pathogens, that could be on the jackrabbit.

Helpful Tips To Know If Backyard Rabbits Are Safe To Eat

One of the biggest concerns one could have is understanding when rabbits are safe for you to eat.

One of the most prominent variables to consider would be the presence of lesions on the liver. There could also be a ton of worms under their skin.

Here are a few other tale-tell signs that your rabbit is sick:

  • Be wary of sudden stasis instances, which involves digestion problems, gas, cramping, and tooth issues.
  • Check whether the rabbit’s foot is raw or inflamed. If it is, it is a sign of sore hocks. Its meat could be dangerous.
  • The presence of deerflies and ticks on the coat of your rabbit could be a bad sign. Usually, these parasites could compromise your health in the long run too.

Final Thoughts

The safety of your rabbit delicacy is all dependent on how you prepare it. From using latex gloves when handling the meat to cooking it thoroughly, every precaution will suffice.

Whether your backyard rabbit is tamed or wild, the procedure remains the same. Are you still asking, are backyard rabbits safe to eat?

Well, it is time to get yourself this delicacy, with the only catch being to observe every precaution.

100 Phenomenal Hunting Captions for Instagram (With Puns!)

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If you’re an avid hunter, capturing intense moments and sharing them on Instagram is a point of pride. That’s why we’ve made a comprehensive list of 100 hunting captions for Instagram.

Whether you enjoy the thrill of the hunt or the peacefulness of being in nature, these hunting quotes for Instagram will perfectly capture your experiences. For those who love to sprinkle a dash of humor in their posts, don’t miss our compilation of hunting puns for Instagram at the end of the list.

So gear up and prepare to give your posts that extra edge!

Hunting Captions for Instagram

  • Hunting is the real adventure sport.
  • Buck wild!
  • Embracing the wild, one hunt at a time.
  • This is the dawn of the deer. Let the chase begin.
  • This deer stand is my quiet place.
  • Does this camo make my hunting look good?
  • Hunting isn’t a hobby. It’s a way of life.
  • Hunt with pride, conserve with love.
  • Aim for success in every shot.
  • A hunter’s heart knows no bounds.

You Might Also Like: Nature Captions for Instagram

  • I’d rather be hunting.
  • Catch me living my best life in the wild.
  • Silent in pursuit, loud in victory.
  • There’s a part of the hunted in every hunter.
  • Deer season is here, and I’m fawning over it.
  • Embracing the wild silence.
  • A moment of patience can result in a great trophy.
  • The joy of hunting is in the chase, not the kill.
  • Do I love hunting? You bet your buck!
  • The hunt is a true test of patience.

Next: Beautiful Scenery Captions for Instagram

  • Born to hunt, forced to work.
  • The thrill of the chase, the victory of the capture. That’s hunting.
  • The beauty of nature, the excitement of the hunt.
  • Silent woods, loud heartbeat – it’s hunting season.
  • Hearing the call of the wild.
  • Nature’s finest moments are found in the hunt.
  • Live wild, hunt free.
  • The trophy pride is the result of patience and precision.
  • The legacy continues, one hunt at a time.
  • I love the camaraderie in the wild.

You Might Also Like: Travel Captions for Instagram

  • I find peace in the wilderness.
  • Hunting buddies for life!
  • In the quiet whispers of nature, we hunt.
  • Animal tracks lead to life’s greatest adventures.
  • Conservation, not destruction. That’s ethical hunting.
  • Staying where the Wi-Fi is weak but the hunt is strong.
  • Hunting tales told by campfires and starlight.
  • The call of the wild is impossible to resist.
  • Proudly carrying on the hunting legacy.
  • Nature’s secrets, a hunter’s gain.

Next: Dirt Bike Captions for Instagram

  • Rifles, racks, and deer tracks.
  • Embarking on a journey into the heart of nature is what makes hunting a thrilling experience.
  • Hunting is a passion that never fades.
  • We hunt responsibly and honor the land.
  • Hunting is a love story between a man and the wild.
  • Feel the thrill and embrace the chill, time to hunt.
  • Hunting is the pursuit of life, not the pursuit of death.
  • Moms make every shot.
  • Never underestimate a hunter’s determination.
  • Today’s office is the hunting blind.

You Might Also Like: ATV Riding Captions for Instagram

  • As the sun rises, so does the hunter.
  • A successful hunting trip is measured by the memories made, not the trophies taken.
  • True hunters are not defined by their kills but by their respect for nature.
  • The wilderness is my happy place, and hunting is my therapy.
  • Every hunting trip is an opportunity to learn something new.
  • Hunting is in my blood.
  • Hunting connects us to the land and the animals.
  • Life is a hunting ground, and I’m the hunter.
  • I came, I saw, I conquered the hunt.
  • Nature doesn’t discriminate, and neither do I.
  • Nature’s mysteries unfold with every hunt.
  • A bad day in the woods beats a good day anywhere else.
  • Bringing home the (deer) bacon, one hunt at a time.
  • Chasing adventure in the great outdoors.
  • True hunters never quit.
  • The great outdoors, where the only limit is my own ambition.
  • Hunting is my therapy, and nature is my refuge.
  • Stealth, strategy, and success: the hunter’s trinity.
  • The pursuit of greatness begins in the wilderness.
  • In the heart of the wilderness, hunters find solace.

Hunting Quotes for Instagram

  • “If we act like prey, they’ll act like predators” – Alyxandra Harvey
  • Problem-solving is hunting. It is a savage pleasure and we are born to it.- Thomas Harris
  • You know, if you need 100 rounds to kill a deer, maybe hunting isn’t your sport.- Elayne Boosler
  • I’m an outdoors girl – I like to go fishing, riding four-wheelers, and hunting.- Miranda Lambert
  • You must not only aim right but draw the bow with all your might.” – Henry David Thoreau
  • “A hunt based only on trophies taken falls far short of what the ultimate goal should be.” – Fred Bear
  • “If you are not working to protect hunting, then you are working to destroy it.” – Fred Bear
  • “You can see the true heart of a man when you’re out in the woods with a weapon.” – Jase Robertson
  • “Don’t get much better than fall. Bring on the camo, ammo, ducks, and bucks.” – Earl Dibbles, Jr.
  • “Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.” – Albert Einstein
  • “To track prey, you must first know it as you would a brother.” – Michelle Paver
  • “A duck call in the hands of the unskilled is one of conservation’s greatest assets.” – Nash Buckingham
  • “The No. 1 rule of duck hunting is to go where the ducks are.” – Jose Robertson
  • “Wildlife and its habitat cannot speak, so we must and we will.” – Theodore Roosevelt
  • I have always tempered my killing with respect for the game pursued. I see the animal not only as a target, but as a living creature with more freedom than I will ever have. – Fred Bear
  • Hunting is the perfect blend of adrenaline and tranquility.
  • Hunting season: a time to reconnect with nature.
  • Nature comes alive through the lens of a hunter.
  • Hunting: where you hide yourself to find yourself.
  • In the pursuit of the wild, we find ourselves.

Hunting Puns for Instagram

  • Time to hunt. No ‘bucking’ around.
  • The silent steps of a hunter reveal the true heartbeat of the wilderness.
  • There’s a primal joy in tracking the elusive and conquering the untamed.
  • In the woods, time slows down, and the hunter becomes attuned to the rhythms of nature.
  • In the wild, I feel alive, connected, and truly free.
  • The thrill of the chase is only rivaled by the beauty of the wild.
  • Into the wild, we go.
  • Hunting: a primal instinct unleashed.
  • Tree stand naps are the best part of hunting.
  • Some girls play house, but real girls go hunting.

Potential Diseases and Parasites of White-tailed Deer in Missouri

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Robert A. Pierce IIFisheries and Wildlife State SpecialistSchool of Natural Resources

Emily FlinnResource ScientistMissouri Department of Conservation

White-tailed deer are susceptible to a variety of diseases, parasites and injuries. Although these conditions do not account for a large percentage of annual statewide deer mortality (typically less than 5 percent), in some situations disease or parasite outbreaks can impact a deer herd locally or regionally.

Infectious diseases of deer can be caused by pathogens that include some viruses, bacteria, parasites and abnormal proteins known as prions. In rare instances, these pathogens are the cause of disease epidemics that result in significant mortality in a local population. These outbreaks are most common in herds with high deer density, which can increase the spread of the disease.

Fortunately, disease and parasite outbreaks seldom impact the quality of venison or make it unsuitable for consumption.

This guide provides an overview of the diseases, parasites and injuries that can affect free-ranging white-tailed deer in Missouri.

Diseases

Viral diseases

Hemorrhagic diseaseHemorrhagic disease is an infectious disease of white-tailed deer, with outbreaks occurring sporadically in Missouri. Hemorrhagic disease (HD) includes both epizootic hemorrhagic disease (EHD) and bluetongue (BTV) viruses. These diseases are very closely related and produce similar symptoms in deer.

Several species within the deer family are susceptible to the HD viruses, including white-tailed, mule and black-tailed deer. Domestic ruminants such as cattle and goats show no signs of illness or only mild signs when infected. In contrast, domestic sheep may develop severe illness when infected with the bluetongue virus.

HD is transmitted by biting midges of the genus Culicoides, thus disease outbreaks tend to occur from August to October, when midges are most abundant. The disease may go unnoticed in the wild because deer carcasses quickly decompose and are consumed by scavengers. Some infected deer may not show obvious symptoms; others may die in one to three days. Typical symptoms include fever; excessive salivation; swollen neck, tongue or eyelids; sloughed or interrupted growth of hooves; reduced activity; and emaciation (significant weight loss). Because sick deer are feverish, they are often found near water (Figure 1). However, in Missouri most deer that contract HD die quickly because they don’t have antibodies to fight the disease like deer in the southeast United States.

In Missouri, the severity and distribution of HD is highly variable. High-density deer herds may exhibit higher mortality rates due to increased contact between individuals, which allows infected midges to transfer from one deer to another. Incidence of the disease has ranged from a few scattered mild cases to dramatic outbreaks. Mortality rates during these outbreaks are usually below 20 percent; however, losses of up to 50 percent have been documented.

Not all infected deer will die from HD. The most common evidence that deer have survived the disease is from the sloughing, or cast and regrowth of hooves. These deer generally remain in good condition, and the hoof sloughing is simply a residual effect of the disease. In some cases, deer develop sores on their tongues, dental pads or insides of their cheeks. Their overall heath and condition will vary from excellent to poor depending on the severity of the secondary infection.

Humans are not at risk by handling or eating venison from an infected deer. Eating the meat of deer that have recovered from the disease poses no health hazard. However, deer may have developed secondary bacterial infections due to HD and thus, may not be suitable for consumption. If you find a dead deer and the cause of death is not apparent, report it to your local conservation agent (http://mdc.mo.gov/contact-us).

In Missouri, deer infected with hemorrhagic disease often die quickly and are found near waterFigure 1In Missouri, deer infected with hemorrhagic disease often die quickly and are found near water.

Cutaneous fibromasCutaneous fibromas are wart-like growths caused by a virus that often infects deer through an open wound or insect bite. These growths can cover large portions of the body, but they are usually small, occur in single or multiple growths and range from a fraction of an inch to several inches in diameter. Fibromas are a more common occurrence in bucks because they are more likely to incur wounds while fighting and when rubbing antlers.

Although sometimes grotesque in appearance, fibromas generally do no harm to deer, unless they interfere with a deer’s sight or capability to eat. The virus does not infect other wild or domestic animals, or humans. Fibromas are confined to the skin and, therefore, are removed when the deer is processed for consumption. Thus, they do not affect or impact the quality of the venison.

Although sometimes grotesque in appearance, fibromas generally do no harm to deer, unless they interfere with a deer’s sight or capability to eat. The virus does not infect other wild or domestic animals, or humans. Fibromas are confined to the skin and, therefore, are removed when the deer is processed for consumption. Thus, they do not affect or impact the quality of the venison.

Bacterial diseases

Brain abscessesBrain abscesses are bacterial infections in the skull and brain. In white-tailed deer, brain abscesses most often occur in bucks (90 percent of cases) and are often seasonal, primarily due to the stages of antler development and fighting. During antler drop (casting) or severe fighting with other bucks, infections can develop on the skull near the pedicle, resulting in a brain abscess (Figure 2).

In the southeastern United States, brain abscesses are estimated to account for about 10 percent of natural mortality of mature bucks. Infection symptoms may include poor coordination, circling movements, blindness, lethargy (significant lack of energy) and emaciation.

The meat of a deer with a brain abscess is not suitable for human consumption.

Brain abscesses are more commonly found in mature bucks due to intense fightingFigure 2Brain abscesses are more commonly found in mature bucks due to intense fighting. In this photo, green pus indicates the infected area of the brain.

Lyme disease Lyme disease is caused by a bacterium (Borrelia burgdorferi) that is spread by certain tick species. The blacklegged tick (deer tick) is the primary species that transmits Lyme disease. Although deer and other wildlife can serve as a host for this tick species, they do not transmit the disease.

The life cycle of infection and the process of disease transmission begins during the spring, when tick eggs hatch into the larvae stage. During the summer, the larvae feed on several host species, including mice, squirrels, raccoons, rabbits and white-tailed deer. In the fall, the larvae mature into the nymph stage. The nymphs hibernate over winter. During the spring and summer, the nymphs are active and prefer to feed on mice, which serve as the reservoir (an immune host) for the disease.

No cases of humans contracting Lyme disease through the handling or consumption of venison have even been documented. Refer to the Ticks section below for precautions to take to minimize your exposure to ticks when handling deer.

Chronic wasting diseaseChronic wasting disease (CWD) belongs to a separate group of diseases known as transmissible spongiform encephalopathies (TSEs). TSEs cause brain degeneration in deer, elk and moose. The disease was first detected in a captive mule deer facility in Colorado in 1967 and since has been documented in free-ranging and captive white-tailed deer, elk and moose in several states.

The first deer that tested positive for CWD were found a few miles from a CWD-positive captive-hunting preserve in north-central Missouri in 2012. Since that year, CWD has been slowly spreading to other locations in Missouri and the number of deer testing positive have increased. Each year, the Missouri Department of Conservation tests a sample of the state’s deer population from hunter harvested deer for the disease. CWD testing has two main goals: detect the disease as early as possible in new locations and monitor changes in disease occurrence over time. Focusing testing on adult males increases the likelihood of finding CWD in new areas. Within CWD Management Zone counties (counties within 10-miles of CWD detections), a greater number of samples are collected, due mostly to “mandatory sampling” on opening weekend of fall firearms season. More detailed information on CWD surveillance and locations in the state that require mandatory sampling can be found on the Missouri Department of Conservation website.

The symptoms of CWD-infected deer include a change in the animal’s natural behavior, emaciation, excessive salivation, lethargy, stumbling and tremors. The disease is always fatal to the infected animal, but symptoms can take months or years to appear. Diagnosis can only be confirmed by laboratory examination of brain or lymph node tissue of an animal (Figure 3).

The movement and transportation of captive live animals, hunter-harvested deer or carcasses are the greatest risk factors for the spread of CWD into new areas. Natural movements of free-ranging deer can also contribute to the spread of the disease.

Once the disease is established, CWD spreads through animal-to-animal or soil-to-animal contact. Unfortunately, CWD can persist in the environment for a long time. Activities intended to concentrate deer to a location, such as feeding and placement of minerals or salt, are discouraged because direct and indirect contact at these locations can promote the transmission of the disease.

CWD tends to exhibit a clumped distribution on the landscape centered on the point of introduction. The targeted culling of deer near CWD-positive locations is one management strategy that may help limit the increase of CWD prevalence within a population. Additionally, minimizing the unnatural concentration of deer at feeding and mineral sites can reduce the risk of spreading CWD.

Chronic wasting disease is not seen as a human-health issue. The Missouri Department of Health and Senior Services and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) have determined there is no evidence CWD can infect people. According to the Missouri Department of Agriculture, there is no evidence that CWD can spread from an infected animal to domestic livestock, such as sheep or cattle. The Missouri Department of Conservation continues to sample deer for CWD. If you observe or harvest a sickly deer, please contact the Missouri Department of Conservation. You can learn more about CWD at http://mdc.mo.gov/CWD.

To test for CWD, the retropharyngeal lymph nodes, the obex of the brain or both are collected and sent for testingFigure 3To test for CWD, the retropharyngeal lymph nodes, the obex of the brain or both are collected and sent for testing.

Parasites

Nematodes

Arterial wormsArterial worms live in the arteries of white-tailed deer. Deer contract arterial worms when bitten by infected horseflies. Infections can result in food being impacted under the tongue causing facial swelling, with occasional tooth loss and jawbone degeneration (Figure 4). However, deer infected with a small number of worms will not exhibit symptoms. Arterial worms pose no threat to humans, and the venison of infected deer is safe for consumption.

Figure 4This area on the deer jawbone appears to be infected by an arterial worm.

LungwormsAs their name implies, lungworms infect the lungs. Only deer with severe lungworm infections exhibit symptoms, which include emaciation, respiratory distress (trouble breathing) and lethargy. Lungworm infections commonly occur in fawns in high deer density areas. The presence of this parasite provides additional motivation for maintaining deer population densities below an area’s biological carrying capacity. Lungworms pose no health threat to humans, and the venison of infected deer is safe for consumption.

Arthropods

TicksAbout 18 tick species have been reported to infect white-tailed deer. The three species most commonly found on deer in Missouri are the lone star, blacklegged (deer tick) and American dog ticks (Figure 5).

In most cases, deer infected with ticks do not show any symptoms, and tick infections rarely lead to death. However, deer with severe tick infections may experience irritated skin around the tick site, weight loss and secondary infections. Severe tick infections can also lead to poor body condition.

Ticks can also affect many other wildlife species, domestic livestock and humans. Humans are susceptible to several tickborne diseases, including Lyme disease and ehrlichiosis. When handling and processing infected deer, take these precautions to minimize your exposure to ticks:

  • Hang the deer carcass for a day or two to allow the ticks to drop off.
  • Wear latex gloves.
  • Treat clothing with a tick repellent to decrease your exposure.
  • Take a shower and check your body for ticks after being outdoors.

The three ticks most commonly found on deer in Missouri are the American dog, blacklegged and lone star ticksFigure 5The three ticks most commonly found on deer in Missouri are the American dog, blacklegged and lone star ticks.

Mange (Demodectic)Demodectic mange of white-tailed deer is caused by the mange mite. Although most deer will not show symptoms of mange, those that do will exhibit hair loss and skin thickening with small pus-filled lesions. Mange is primarily spread through contact with an infected deer or its environment. However, mange does not cause a herd health issue and is not a concern for humans. Mange infections are limited to the skin, therefore the meat of an infected deer is safe for human consumption.

Nasal botsNasal bot flies (Cephenemyia spp.) are common parasites that infect the nasal passages of deer. They also infect squirrels and rabbits. These parasites are most often found by taxidermists while preparing heads for mounting, although hunters occasionally notice them.

Adult female flies deposit small larvae in the nostrils of deer. The larvae enter the nasal passages and pass through several stages of development and growth. They are liberated from the nostril when the deer sneezes. They then form a pupa and emerge as an adult fly.

Although quite large (up to 11/2 inches long) and unpleasant looking in the final stages of development, nasal bots cause little harm to deer and do not infect humans. They also do not affect the quality of venison.

Injuries

Deer that have suffered injuries are occasionally harvested by hunters. Injuries may result from hunter-inflicted wounds, deer-vehicle accidents or incidents with fences or farm equipment. Many of these injuries heal without complication, but occasionally they cause infections that cause dead tissue and pus in and around the wound. Although localized infections or abscesses caused by an injury do not pose a problem to overall deer health, they can pose a local meat-safety problem. If an abscess is discovered, it must be trimmed out. If it has been accidentally cut or removed and has leaked matter onto the surrounding tissue and meat, that meat is considered contaminated and must trimmed out as well.

Conclusion

Infections resulting from diseases and parasites typically result in only a small percentage of annual deer mortality. However, hunters and landowners should be familiar with the possible symptoms, and hunters that eat venison should be able to identify disease symptoms when field-dressing and processing deer. Contact the Missouri Department of Conservation if you see a deer with an apparent disease or that looks unhealthy.

Additional references

  • Campbell, T. A., and K. C. VerCauteren. 2011. “Diseases and parasites” in Biology and management of white-tailed deer, ed. D.G. Hewitt, 219-249. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.
  • Davidson, W. R., ed. 2006. Field manual of wildlife diseases in the southeastern United States, 3rd ed. Athens, GA: University of Georgia.
  • Southeastern Cooperative Wildlife Disease Study. The University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine. https://vet.uga.edu/scwds
Photo creditsEmily Flinn, Missouri Department of Conservation and Jason Sumners.

Public Land Deer Hunting Strategy for Pennsylvania

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There are two potential reasons why you may be hunting public land deer this season. First, you may find public land deer hunting challenging and enjoy the freedom the big woods offer. More likely, however, the real reason you are hunting on public land is you have no other choice such as a private lease or your own land to hunt. Hunting deer on public land is the great equalizer. Each hunter has to search for a place to hunt, develop a sound strategy and compete with other hunters all seeking a whitetail buck.

The one advantage hunters have in Pennsylvania when looking for the best public land hunting is that there is plenty of it. Public lands open to hunting can be found in almost every county of the state accounting for more than 4 million acres. All that land, however, comes with a lot of competition and challenges when it comes to deer hunting season.

Finding Public Land Deer Hunting Opportunities in Pennsylvania

The best public land deer hunting opportunities are not as hard to come by as many think. The key is to put the time in and focus on quality areas with minimal pressure and good habitat. Finding these suitable areas is not difficult with the amount of area open to the public.

One place to start your search is with the Pennsylvania Game Commission (PGC) Deer Hunter Focus Areas. This site provides information and an interactive map of recent and current habitat management projects on State Game Lands across the state. These projects are known to attract deer and typically have hunter access areas associated with them. Although these Deer Hunter Focus Areas are a great place to start, remember a lot of other hunters will also be hunting these areas. Ideally, you want to use these locations as a starting point and expand to adjacent areas to hunt whitetails where hunting pressure will be less.

Another starting point for finding public land deer hunting opportunities is the PGC State Game Lands website. This website provides information about the 1.5 million acres of public lands opening for hunting. Here, again, you can use an interactive map to search for areas to scout and download individual maps to take with you on the ground. Both are helpful when planning your public land hunting strategy.

Finally, Pennsylvania State Forests and the Allegheny National Forest also both have vast amounts of land open to public hunting. How to find a good hunting spot on public land starts with doing your research and exploring these opportunities well before deer season starts.

Best Game Lands to Hunt in Southeastern Pennsylvania

State Game Land 145 sits off of State Route 117 in southern Lebanon County. It is approximately 2,800 acres of mixed hardwoods forest. This SGL has many one- and two-acre food plots established to supplement native forage. Hunt thick bedding areas near these food plots to ambush a buck coming or going to feed.

SGL 145 – Lebanon County

Nearby, SGL 156 has over 4,500 acres open to hunting in Lebanon and Lancaster counties. Both mixed hardwood and mixed oak forests exist in SGL 156. Timber management is very active across this area and provides plenty of quality browse and cover for whitetails to enjoy. Hunting public land deer here can be tough as it tends to get pressured, especially during firearms season. Hunt more remote areas and stay away from main trails if possible to increase your chances.

SGL 156 – Lebanon/Lancaster Counties

Another prime public land hunting location in Lebanon and Lancaster counties is SGL 46. Accessible from State Route 897, SGL 46 covers approximately 6,000 acres surrounding the Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area. Focus your public land hunting strategy on hardwood ridges and adjacent to agricultural fields on this public tract.

SGL 46 – Lebanon/Lancaster Counties

Overlooked Public Land Hunting Places

Among all the public land open to hunting across the Commonwealth, hunters frequently overlook state parks as a place to hunt. There is usually a state park within a 20- to 30-minute drive of almost every resident in the state and many have public land deer hunting opportunities.

Two particular state parks in southern Pennsylvania where public land monster bucks roam are Gifford Pinchot State Park and Caledonia State Park. Both of these parks allowing deer hunting, but they have special regulations hunters need to comply with. Gifford Pinchot is located in northern York County just outside of Harrisburg. The hunting grounds surround the lake and are in turn surrounded by a mix of residential and agricultural lands. No centerfire rifles can be used for hunting in the park but you can use bows, shotguns, and muzzleloaders. Caledonia State Park has a smaller amount of huntable land but it is surrounded by the 85,000 acre Michaux State Forest, which offers its own public hunting opportunities. Similarly, this park has special hunting regulations so be sure to check them out before planning to hunt in either of these state parks.

5 Public Land Hunting Tips for Deer Season

Hunting big bucks on public land does not come easy. Make sure these five public land hunting tips are part of your deer season strategy.

  1. Scout All Year Long – You have to put in the time on public lands. This means not only hunting but also scouting. Scouting with trail cameras preseason but also scouting throughout the year to find new spots and plan tree stand set ups is a must. The more time you spend scouting the more likely you will beat out all the other unprepared hunters for that buck spot.
  2. Get a GPS and Learn to Use It – Having a GPS unit is critical to public land deer hunting. It allows you to store hunting spots as waypoints and tracks as trails to your tree stands. Without one, it makes it hard to explore new hunting areas and keep your existing spots as secret as possible.
  3. Use Hunting Pressure to Your Advantage – Almost everywhere in Pennsylvania on public land, there will be hunting pressure. One tip is to use that to your advantage. Position tree stands around highly pressured areas and hunt the pressured deer. This works well in gun season when a high percentage of hunters are in the woods for the first time walking around and spooking up bucks.
  4. Don’t Hunt History – Hunters on public land often hunt the same areas year after year. These places are either familiar or they have had recent past deer hunting success here. With public land, however, things change constantly. Either habitat is changing from management activities or consistent pressure from recreation change deer patterns. Assume nothing each year and instead scout each year to determine if other areas are a better choice to hunt.
  5. Be Able to Adapt Mid-Season – Along with not hunting history, you also need to be able to adapt during the season. Public means anyone can hunt right next to you. You have to have secondary options and be able to adapt your public land hunting strategy on a daily basis based on changing deer patterns or unexpected hunting pressure.

Must-Have Deer Hunting Gear for Public Land

Arguably the two most important pieces of deer hunting gear for public land hunting are a lightweight tree stand and a quality hunting pack. The theme of these two pieces of gear is mobility and being able to adapt.

  • Lightweight Tree Stand Setup – Hanging a tree stand on public land has to not damage the tree. This means you have to either choose a lightweight climbing tree stand like the Summit Open Shot Climber or go with a hang on stand and use lightweight climbing sticks.
  • Quality Hunting Pack – You will need a hunting pack for public land deer hunting that holds plenty of gear. Large main pockets, accessory pockets, and a comfortable fit as the Badlands Dash Backpack which is ideal for any day hunting public land during firearms season.
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