I started using jigs for trout here in eastern Washington a few years ago.

First as a novel alternative to heavily pressured trout, then as I discovered their versatility and raw effectiveness, they became my out-of-the-truck first shot go-to for all trout species.

In all the lakes I happen to be at the time, large or small, from April to November, jigs catch trout of all sizes as well, or dare I say better than most techniques. Best of all, it gets the attention of larger fish with regularity. So it made perfect sense to me to bring my plethora of jigs with me on a spring trip to western Montana last April.

Turns out, jigs work well over there in all types of water, not just lakes, but rivers as well. And no one, I mean no one is using these things in Big Sky rivers.

Recently transplanted 35 year ex-Forks steelhead guide JD Love and I were floating a few rivers near his new home in western Montana last early spring, and once again in mid-October. The rivers we targeted are no secret; they are some of the more famous trout streams on the planet.

The Jefferson below the mouth of the Big Hole; the big Missouri below the confluence of the Jefferson, Madison and Gallatin; the Madison just above the entrance of Ennis Lake. Even smaller streams like the Beaverhead and Ruby, which we fished from shore, all just a short hike from the parking spot provided excellent jig fishing.

All feature a thousand wild trout per mile (or more) and all are more than famous for brown trout measured in pounds.

Let’s not forget the world record brown trout was caught on a twitched jig.

Our last day of the season was spent floating the Jefferson from Twin Bridges to Silver Star access. It was Wild Kingdom that day; we saw a few moose (a little too close), a billion deer, partying packs of skunks and too many migratory waterfowl.

The jig of trout choice that day (water had 4 feet of visibility) was either a yellow or white ¼-ounce head with a #1 Gamakatsu jig hook; brown/light green hackle collar and 5” fire tiger rabbit strip tail. Lots of contrast, bright colors to show well in the deeper slots and faster water.

We hooked around 40 trout, mostly browns but a few rainbows that would have passes for small summer steelhead back home, including one about 7 pounds that fought like a Dean River steelhead. Most of the browns (and rainbows) in all the rivers we fished were 16 to 24 inches, biggest perhaps 5 pounds. All struck the jigs with a ravenous rip-down.

My “new thang” is large brown trout.

You know we river rats love a new challenge; mine somehow morphed to finding large, wary fish-eating trout on light gear. And since we really don’t have that many brown trout fisheries around my house in eastern Washington, some travel is necessary. Just so happens I now have a great friend who lives a 9-iron shot (and guided there for years in the 70s) from the best brown trout rivers on North America.

Montana trout fishers, fly tossers in particular, have a jones for large brown trout.

Sure, they take big dries and nymphs as well as any trout, but the real kings of the riffles want a steak, not a peanut. As you will find out from the many articles and just conversations with trout fishers, the largest browns will chase and strike something that is almost 1/3 the length of their body.

That is why when you see a guide boat float by bets are there are at least two fly rods on board rigged with 4- to 6-inch gaudy, articulated streamer flies for targeting the rulers of the river.

Big wily browns seem to strike brightly colored jigs a bit more than natural-toned.

Trout seem to strike out of curiosity at these big jigs. This may be why a bright attractor pattern is more effective than a natural one. The trick to getting the largest ones is not so much “matching the hatch,” but showing them a possible large meal when they want it. If a 10 pounder just ate a 12-inch whitefish, he is not eating (striking) again until hungry.

Timing is everything, and covering as much water as possible in a day gives you the best odds of finding one that just strapped on the feed bag.

Gear anglers also know this, as you will see them tossing spinners, some spoons but primarily jointed similar-sized Rapalas to stir up the carnivorous larger browns, and even rainbows. But no jig tossers in any of the rivers. You may think, the natural progression from a large streamer would be a jig tied similar. Nope.

After speaking with several long time guides, plus dialing up the ol’ Internet looking for information, remarkable as it may seem there is just nothing on the subject. If those anglers are out there, there are either very few or they are well hidden and secretive.

Plenty of info on jig twitching in general in lakes or fishing tiny jigs in rivers…tossing big rabbit jigs for trophy browns in rivers, zilch. I really could not believe it, but a light bulb, flickering and fizzling as it was, lit up.

Knowing this, I returned home to the fly vise and did some modifications on the standard-issue trout jig. My working-class jigs are primarily 1/8 to ¼ ounce with hackle body/marabou tails, the whole jig approximately 3 to almost 4 inches. These are marvelous attractors for cutthroat, rainbow, and brook trout; hundreds of great trout have gripped these for me the last 5 years.

Taking a leaf from the streamer fisher’s bible, I made something that mimics the big streamers so popular in Montana and other rivers that feature outsized browns. Except the jig, having a concentrated weight on its head, sinks faster than any sink tip and can be presented where and when a fly, no matter how it is weighted, cannot. Enter the rabbit strip jig.

As we all know, nothing in the water is as life-like as rabbit. Marabou is close, and it is a fine addition (collars, etc.) to a rabbit strip. Jig twitching is all about the world of swimming prey. Big brown trout are meat-eaters; they can ingest (and will attack) something that is 1/3 the size of their bodies.

Whether that prey is small fish, like trout or sculpins, darting crayfish, big leeches or even snakes, they all swim erratically. That is why an undulating, wiggling “breathing” rabbit strip jig pretty much is unbeatable if you want a gimme shot at Ike.

Let’s look at rods, reels, lines for jigging in rivers for large trout, then a bit on techniques for fishing big bunny jigs in rivers.

The Gear

Short, fast action ultra-light rods are key when casting/presenting jigs. My choice is a GLoomis ultra-light spin rod. It loads fast with 1/8- to ¼-ounce jigs, casts and sets hooks with deceptive power. I’ve landed trout to 12 pounds on it and never felt under gunned. Put a Shimano Stradic on it, fill it with 10 pound (fishes heavier) yellow V2 Slick Power Pro, and place a 7-foot top shot of 12-pound high-quality fluorocarbon with a uni knot.

Line shyness is rarely a factor, do yourself a favor and “beef up” that top shot, nothing less than 10-pound test. The super line does not stretch; its 6-pound test mono diameter is perfect for longer casts, spool capacity, amazing feel, and hook sets that mono can’t touch. This outfit or one similar is ideal for tossing/twitching jigs either in a river or in lakes.

I try to keep three rods in the raft/drift boat rigged with jigs of slightly different color schemes, for example, one with white head with brown/green hackle body/fire tiger bunny strip tail; yellow head/dark red hackle body/fire tiger bunny tail and black head/brown hackle body/olive black stripe bunny tail. I’m not a fan of using any type of flash in my jig patterns but if you want, go for it. What isn’t tried won’t work.

The Technique

For smaller rivers, requiring shorter casts and/or shallower holding areas in larger rivers, a 1/8-ounce jig head is all you need.

For example, in the shallow/riffly Madison a 1/8-ounce head got down immediately in the mostly shallow riffly runs, while a ¼-ounce was necessary in the bigger Jefferson and Madison when longer casts and deeper spots are the norm. Read your water, adjust accordingly.

Now you are on one of those famous rivers.

Where do I look for trout? First, unplug your steelheading brain and leave it in the truck. Those gorgeous, long sweeping gravel bars, transitioning from shallow slow flows out to deeper, faster water… forget it. Nobody home.

Only whitefish, sculpin and small juveniles will be there in the “steelhead” transition water. This drove me batcrap nuts looking at all those juicy runs that hold no fish.

These trout live right next to cut banks, near woody debris and slack water side channels (like coho salmon love). If there is no other deepwater escape (like the primarily riffle configured Madison) then look for structure of any type.

If I had to pick one type of water to concentrate on, it would be cut banks.

That is where the insects and small creatures fall off the grasses into the water, plus the best cover. When targeting cut banks, try to position yourself as close to the bank as you can without spooking fish. Casting upstream parallel to the bank allows the jig to stay in the “loaded” water longer. Rather than casting toward the bank and retrieving the jig away, it stays in the strike zone for far more of the presentation.

Before making a cast or beginning a presentation, keep this in the front of the brain at all times: All injured, disoriented creatures move downstream at some pace because they cannot fight the current, or escaping from a predator is far more likely to be successful going swiftly with the current than attempting to go against. Cast upstream from your position whenever possible; this allows the jig to sink unimpeded by current, allowing it to drop into target water as swift as possible.

Your jig should land as close as possible to cut banks, submerged/partially submerged trees, boulders, and edges of back water. Large trout, any trout, will be tight up against this structure/drop off. Work it back, at or slightly slower than current speed back to your position, much like a spinner for summer steelhead. Don’t be too fast to begin your presentation, as this causes the jig to leave the “sweet spot” quickly.

Allow it to drop as close as possible to the bottom as well.

The best part about casting jigs is there is virtually no water that cannot be fished.

Skinny slack edges, plunge pools, long riffles, you name it, the jig works there. Do try to keep the jig near the bottom but try to avoid rapid banging, as all this does is kill the action, chips off all your head paint, and greatly increases the chance for snagging up and losing your jig.

The classic “twitch/drop/twitch/drop/reel” will get bit, but try not to be too robotic or lazy. A short, swift movement of the rod tip will be all you need to impart plenty of action to the jig. Long, up-sweeping motions rarely work. Try to shake up the rhythm of your retrieve, because nothing injured swims in rhythm. They can go side to side, wiggle rapidly, dart several feet, or a few inches. So, there is not one tried and true method of “twitching” for big river trout. There are not two, or five either.

Different speed of retrieve, all through the water column. Try a drift, casting upstream from your position. Pretend its 1985; you have a chunk of pencil lead on and a Corky. Keep the jig just above the bottom, “glide” it along at current speed and impart zero action. Something different is often what works. Regardless of the type of presentation, try to keep a slight bow in the line, never slack but never taught, as if you were spoon fishing. This allows more imparted action to the jig. Also, try and move the rod tip a foot or so rapidly side-to-side when retrieving; it will add a zigzag motion to the jig.

And here’s something I learned after missing too many really large Montana browns- do not give up on a presentation until the jig is ready to be lifted out for the next cast.

I’ve had great fish swirl at the jig just before lifting it out for the next cast. Before you pull the lure out of the water, let it hang and wiggle a bit a few feet off the rod tip. Surprise! That is when you will be glad for at least 12-pound test shock tippet off that braid.

The biggest rainbow I’ve ever caught in Montana was seven pounds, it gripped the jig inches under the water immediately before I was about to re-cast. I peed a little.

When you find yourself in western Montana- and I hope you do- if you just want to catch a lot of trout with the chance for a larger one, toss 1/6th oz. silver bladed/yellow bodied Rooster Tails or smaller, natural-toned jigs. Or indicator fish with a fly rod with weighted nymphs if you really want some numbers.

Casting/retrieving an F-9 rainbow trout pattern Rapala will also get big fish eating browns, but they are not as versatile in ability to hit virtually any type of water like a jig. But remember- big fish, big lure.

And how did we do, last spring and fall twitching large rabbit/marabou jigs for aggressive, carnivorous browns? Well first, check out the pictures smattered around this article and just know there were plenty of players in all the places we fished.

There are so many more rivers, even many other stretches of the same ones we fished that crowding I promise will never be an issue. Even if there are some folks floating in front of you, know that none of them will be twitching big rabbit jigs. They will be nymphing with an indicator or stripping large flies on fly rods.

The novel alternative will always be in your favor. It’s so fun in fact I’m going back to western Montana in 2020 not once but half a dozen times…with 100 newly tied rabbit jigs.

My ten-pound brown is waiting….

– written by Bill Herzog

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Deer – also known as venison – liver may not be a staple in your kitchen. We’ll make sure you are prepared whenever you decide to cook up a delicious deer liver pate.

This article will cover how to tell if deer liver is bad and other common questions surrounding its storage.

Signs That Deer Liver Is Bad

Brown Color

If the deer liver has changed from brown to red, then it has gone bad.

Liver should be a rich, deep red. The liver will also contract a metal-like shine when it starts to deteriorate. Although, this can be hard to notice as the liver is already a little shiny. It is best to look out for dramatic color changes.

As a general rule any form of discoloration is a sign the liver has spoiled. The liver will need to be immediately disposed of.

Sour Smell

Deer liver will start to smell when it begins to expire or deteriorate. It is common for the liver to contract a pungent, sour smell when it has gone bad.

A fresh deer liver has a non-distinct, semi sweet smell. Any smell that is different from this is a sign the liver can no longer be eaten.

Slimy Texture

The texture of deer liver begins to change when it has gone bad. A thick slime can appear on the liver when it has gone bad or has started to deteriorate.

This occurs because the liver is breaking down. If this happens, it is likely that it has been too long since the deer was killed and the liver is losing freshness. Alternatively, the liver may have been exposed to the elements, in particular, heat.

Do not consume the deer liver if you notice any of these signs.

What Do White Spots on Deer Liver Mean

White spots on deer liver are a symptom of liver fluke or tularemia. Liver fluke is a name for the parasites that infest the liver. Liver fluke can happen to both animals (like deer) and humans.

Tularemia is an infectious disease that attacks the internal organs of animals. Tularemia also presents as white spots in a deer’s liver.

It’s really important to inspect the deer liver for white spots before you consume it. White spots mean that the liver is not safe for human consumption.

If you do eat liver that has been infected with liver fluke or tularemia you may become unwell. Cooking can kill bacteria, however, it is better to be safe than sorry.

What Happens if You Eat Bad Deer Liver

Eating spoiled meat can make you very unwell. It contains pathogenic bacteria which are the cause of food poisoning and other food related illnesses. Bad deer liver should be immediately disposed of.

It’s good to note that a lot of problems derive from the freshness of the meat. To protect the liver (and yourself) make sure you refrigerate as soon as you have purchased or killed the meat.

Similarly, throw away any liver that has sat around for too long (regardless of whether it is in the fridge, freezer, or on the counter).

Can You Eat Deer Liver Raw

Technically you can eat deer liver raw. Although, medical practitioners do advise against it. This is because deer liver contains pathogenic bacteria like hepatitis e, salmonella, and campylobacter, which can make you very unwell.

It is best practice to thoroughly cook deer liver before you eat it. Cooking will immediately kill any bacteria in the liver.

Raw liver has an overpowering metallic taste to it due to myoglobin from the deer. You’re not missing out on much, it’s not even that nice to eat raw!

How to Clean Deer Liver

Before cooking, freezing, or refrigeration, you will need to clean the deer liver. Deer liver is a notoriously dirty cut of meat. It has a lot of blood, slime, and other moisture attached to it.

The more excess you can remove from the liver, the better it will taste. Follow these steps for a thorough clean;

1. Slice the deer liver into bite sized chunks.
2. Remove any grisly bits attached to the liver.
3. Dissolve two tablespoons of salt in a bowl of water.
4. Place the liver chunks into the water.
5. Place the bowl of water with liver in the fridge.
6. Leave to soak for a couple of hours.
7. Pat dry with paper towels.
8. The liver is now ready to be cooked

How Long Does Deer Liver Last?

On the Counter

Deer liver (both raw and cooked) can be left on the countertop for up to two hours. Raw, exposed meat can easily spoil at room temperature. Do not eat or cook deer liver that has been left on the counter for longer than 2 hours.

In the Fridge

Raw deer liver should only be kept in the fridge for 1-2 days. You can keep cooked deer liver in the fridge for 3-4 days (this also applies to pate). Offal goes off far more quickly than other cuts of meat.

In the Freezer

Deer liver (both raw and cooked) can be frozen for up to 3 months. After 3 months, the liver can deteriorate from freezer burn or it will start to lose its freshness.

Is It Okay to Freeze Deer Liver?

Yes, deer liver can be frozen. Here’s how we like to freeze our deer liver;

1. Drain excess liquid and blood from the liver before you freeze it.
2. Portion and divide your liver into meal sized portions. You don’t want to necessarily thaw the liver at a later date.
3. Wrap your liver in clingfilm and place it into airtight bags. A vacuum sealer is the best option, however, this is not always feasible. At the very least make sure you double wrap the liver. This helps the meat stay as fresh as possible, for as long as possible.
4. Label your liver with the date you placed it in the freezer and the date it should be used. A good rule of thumb is a 3 month expiry.

How to Store Deer Liver

Deer liver can be stored in its original package or an airtight container.

When you first purchase the liver it will come in plastic packaging. It is secure, safe, and convenient to keep the liver in this packaging.

Alternatively, you can remove the original plastic package and store the deer liver in your own airtight container. Find a container that has enough room and a locked lid.

You can also store the liver in a ziplock plastic bag. Both are great options if you want to marinate the liver before cooking.

It is best to place the liver in the fridge immediately after you purchase it. Leaving liver on the counter, while temporarily fine, can encourage product spoilage.

It is better to throw it straight in the fridge to ensure it stays fresh. You should only leave the liver on the counter if you are going to cook it straight away.

Remember, meat should be stored in a refrigerator at a temperature of 10°C. Bacteria can start to grow at temperatures under 10°C. Find the coldest part of your fridge and store the liver close by. If you need to keep the liver past its use by date then the freezer is your best bet.

Health Benefits of Deer Liver

Deer liver is rich in nutrients. It is filled with B12, vitamin A, riboflavin, and copper.

Liver is also high in protein, and low in fat. Deer liver can help you achieve a balanced, filling, and nutrient dense diet.

You should make sure that you get your deer liver from a responsible source.

The liver is a filtering organ which means that some nasty bacteria can sneak onto your plate if you’re not careful!

To Sum Up

Deer liver requires a bit of extra preparation and care than average meat. You should not eat deer liver if you notice any discolouration, slimy textures, sour smells, or white spots. If you see or smell any of these symptoms you should immediately dispose of the liver.

Deer liver can be stored in an airtight container or a ziplock bag. You can store liver on the countertop for up to 2 hours or it can be stored in the fridge for 1-2 days. Alternatively, you can freeze the liver for up to 3 months if you don’t want to cook it straight away.

Building a DIY deer stand is an excellent way for avid hunters to enhance their hunting experience. Learn how to build homemade deer stands with these 25 free DIY deer blind plans to build a safe and comfortable hunting spot easily. These free deer blind plans designed for everyone, from beginners to seasoned builders.

These DIY deer blind plans include step-by-step instructions, detailed guidelines, and PDF downloads, making the process as easy as possible. Incorporate homemade deer stands into your next hunting adventure or nature observation to improve your experience.

Our collection of DIY deer blind plans features a wide range of styles and designs, such as elevated hunting blinds, mobile deer blinds, homemade tree stand blinds, and box blinds. These plans cater to various preferences and uses, such as bow hunting, rifle shooting, or wildlife photography. Choose between using scrap wood, pallets, or new materials to make the perfect deer blind, depending on your budget and preferences.

So, gather your tools and materials, and embark on your DIY deer blind project today! With our 25 free DIY deer blind plans, you’ll have plenty of options to choose from and make a custom and practical hunting blind that will enhance your outdoor experiences. Don’t wait any longer – start building your very own DIY deer blind today!

1. DIY Elevated Deer Hunting Blind Under $500

Revamp your hunting experience with a custom-built, elevated DIY deer blind designed for optimal visibility and protection against weather elements. This innovative project requires basic tools and materials, easily sourced from any home improvement store. Remarkably budget-friendly, you can erect this stand on a weekend with a spending limit of approximately $500.

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2. How to Make Deer Blind From Pallets

Transform your hunting experiences with a budget-friendly DIY box blind! Rising prices of building materials don’t need to hinder your plans. This practical guide demonstrates how simple materials like pallets, 4x4s or 2x4s, exterior grade screws, and a tarp can be repurposed into a sturdy, modular hunting blind.

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From gathering materials to setting up the structure, this guide provides a step-by-step process, ensuring that anyone with some initiative can set up their box blind. It’s a rewarding project that enhances your hunting experience and brings family bonding time. Get started today and make lasting memories with your loved ones. themeateater

3. How to Build a Mobile Deer Blind

Unleash your inner craftsman with a DIY mobile deer blind on a running gear project! This intriguing endeavor starts with affordable farm running gear and involves the construction of a 4×4 frame, 2×6 floor, and 3/4″ plywood floor. It offers a blend of green-treated and standard materials, with unique features like angled corner walls, bow windows, and sliding horizontal windows for an optimal viewing experience.

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The result? A functional, transportable deer blind offering an exceptional view from inside, further enhanced with magnetic window screens and a blackout curtain. Get ready to build this fantastic piece, engaging adults and kids in a fun-filled, hands-on activity. Perfect for all DIY enthusiasts out there! bowhunting

4. Homemade Tree Stand Blind

If you love hunting, you’ll love these DIY deer blind plans that will help you build your own deer blind that is comfortable and effective. Envelop yourself in nature with this comprehensive guide to constructing a DIY deer stand blind. Made to provide an elevated and sheltered view for deer watching, this 6′ x 6′ structure is an immersive outdoor project that ensures a cost-effective and rewarding experience. Materials include treated timber, decking boards, plywood panels, corrugated red asphalt roof panels, metal brackets, PVC pipes, and assorted hardware.

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Enjoy the tranquility of nature in your deer stand blind, a unique and purposeful addition to your outdoor space. So go ahead, gather your tools, and embark on this nature-oriented project to witness the harmony and allure of the wild from the comfort of your deer stand blind. instructables

5. Building Your Own Platform Deer Stand

Enjoy the captivating view of your rural surroundings with your DIY deer stand, built to withstand the elements and provide a unique vantage point for observing wildlife. With the help of a cordless hammer drill and impact driver combo kit, this project uses sturdy dimensional lumber to construct a safe and secure platform. Explore your property’s wildlife, from colorful birds to majestic deer, all from your homemade perch.

Building a deer stand starts with a solid foundation of 2×6 pressure-treated lumber, precisely structured for balance and strength. The framework is further fortified with Timberlake screws, made effortless by the robust tools from the Milwaukee M18 FUEL line.

The project proves to be an exciting endeavor, not just as a means of observing wildlife but also as a functional structure for seasonal hunting. Before embarking on this project, comply with local zoning laws and building codes for safety. So gear up, engage with the outdoors, and make an enduring symbol of your love for nature with your deer stand. homefixated

6. Inexpensive DIY Hunting Blind

Learn the art of building effective DIY hunting blinds. These blinds hide hunters from their prey, allowing for a more successful hunting season. This project covers three unique designs – the box stand, the hay bale blind, and the natural blind. With each design explained in detail, you’ll understand the cost, materials required, and step-by-step instructions for construction.

The box stand is an elaborate structure that can comfortably accommodate two people. It requires treated lumber, plywood, and corrugated tin sheets for a $100-$300 budget. The hay bale blind is simpler, leveraging existing hay bales in a field to camouflage the hunter, requiring a minimal budget of about $100.

Lastly, the natural blind is a cost-free structure built using surrounding vegetation. Building hunting blinds brings utility and helps make a stronger bond with nature. This cost-effective guide helps you maintain the age-old hunting tradition while ensuring safety and comfort. whitetailproperties

7. Making Your Own 5×5 Deer Blind

Breathe new life into your hunting experience with a DIY 5×5 deer blind project. This unique project utilizes sturdy 2x4s for framing and painted OSB for walls, topped with lightweight steel roofing, making a durable yet affordable deer blind. Its total construction cost rings up at just around $300. This project is easy in difficulty level, inviting everyone to try. The result? A durable, functional, and cost-efficient deer blind that’s perfect for your next hunting adventure. Embark on this project and showcase your skills while benefiting from the functionality of a custom-made deer blind. howtospecialist

8. How to Make a Deer Stand at Home

Prepare for deer season with this comprehensive guide to building your elevated DIY deer stand! This hands-on project provides an exceptional view 17 feet up and includes optional elements for comfort and concealment, such as a blind and roof.

You’ll work with common materials like 16-footer 2x4s and a nail gun to assemble the ladder and frame, ensuring your stand is secure and practical. With careful measurements, cutting, and assembly, you’ll attach the ladder to the frame, strengthen the structure, and add the roof and side panels.

Additionally, the stand offers two design options: a simpler single deer stand or a slightly more complex double deer stand, catering to your specific hunting needs. Harness your craftsmanship to make this innovative deer stand and elevate your hunting experience! diytyler

9. Free Wooden Deer Stand Plan

A deer blind is a must-have for any hunter. Learn how to make your own with these DIY deer blind plans that are easy and inexpensive. Immerse yourself in the thrill of the hunt with the ultimate homemade box deer hunting stand! Expertly built with an emphasis on stability, portability, and affordability, this DIY hunting stand offers optimal concealment and protection from the elements as you pursue your game. Constructed primarily from 2×4 pieces, this stand includes a 4’x4′ platform approximately 6 feet off the ground, complete with a roof for added shelter.

Customize your stand with as many shooting windows as required at your preferred height. The beauty of this project is its transportability – the components fit snugly into the back of a pickup truck, enabling fast assembly on-site with just a single ratchet wrench.

If you’ve multiple hunting locations on your property, this cost-effective solution, estimated at around $150, offers the ideal alternative to expensive commercial options. Now it’s time to gather your tools, source your materials, and build your perfect hunting vantage point! freedeerstandplans

10. How to Make a Deer Stand

Transform your hunting experience with this practical and moveable DIY deer stand. This detailed guide will lead you through making a sturdy, weather-resistant deer stand using basic materials such as cedar, pine, or redwood lumber and plywood. The design includes a floor, sides, a front face, a back face, and a roof, ensuring a comfortable and secure perch for your hunting expeditions.

Follow the step-by-step instructions to accurately measure, cut, and assemble each component. Remember the importance of drilling pilot holes for a tighter lock and right-angled corners for a professional result.

The structure can be easily disassembled and relocated according to your hunting needs. The highlight of this deer stand is its portability, enabling you to adjust to changing wildlife patterns. Enhance your outdoor experience with our free deer stand plans today. myoutdoorplans

11. 8 X 8 Hexagonal Bow Deer Blind Building Plans

Make a spacious hunting hideaway with this simple DIY blind construction guide! The aim is to make a blind that comfortably fits a family and can be assembled in a garage and transported for assembly. You’ll need 2x4s, 4x4s, 1/2″ plywood, gate hinges, blind windows, paint, and blind platform brackets.

Begin by assembling an 8’x8′ base using the platform brackets. Build individual panels for the front and sides, attach them to the platform, and secure them to each other. Build an “L” shaped frame for the rear wall and ceiling joists. Cut out the door, attach the roof, add shingles, and paint. This versatile blind will add a practical and enjoyable feature to hunting trips. reckonill

12. How to Make Your Own 4×6 Elevated Deer Blind

Revamp your outdoor experience with a DIY 4×6 elevated deer blind! This fun family project is practical and rewarding, perfect for enthusiastic nature lovers. Using common tools, such as a hammer, saw, and drill, you’ll work together to construct a sturdy structure elevated for an optimized view.

The process incorporates materials like Plexiglass for windows, enhancing visibility while maintaining the shelter. This unique design also features window dividers on each 6′ side, catering to your personalized viewing needs.

Building this deer blind offers a fun, engaging activity that brings families closer while honing woodworking skills. Plus, the end product provides an ideal spot for wildlife observation, capturing those elusive deer moments like never before. So, get your tools ready and embrace the adventure of building today! myoutdoorplans

13. Build a Ladder Stand for Deer Hunting

Delve into the craft of building a DIY ladder stand for deer hunting. Constructing your own provides cost savings, customization, and a unique perspective for a successful hunt. This guide takes you through six key steps, from choosing the perfect tree to testing the final setup. Materials needed include 2×4 inch treated lumber or cedar beams, plywood for the seat, and an array of tools.

It emphasizes that a ladder stand is not just an impressive feat but a vital tool for hunting, offering a bird’s eye view of the area and excellent camouflage. But remember, safety is paramount; always use a safety harness and routinely inspect your tree for stability. This guide gets you closer to a fulfilling hunting experience. deerproject

14. Small Deer Stand Design

Make your hunting experience even more memorable with the perfect DIY small deer stand design! This woodworking task can be completed in three days at approximately $250. All the necessary supplies can easily be procured, marking it an easy-level task.

The resulting deer stand is an impressive testament to your craftsmanship, showcasing your skills to the world. Not only does it offer a practical application for nature enthusiasts, but it also provides a satisfying creative outlet.

The project plan, available on the provided link, makes the process manageable and enjoyable. Build your deer stand today and immerse in the thrill of DIY woodworking! howtospecialist

15. Build Your Own Deer Stand

A deer blind can improve your hunting experience and success. Find out how to make your own with these DIY deer blind plans that are detailed and practical. Embark on a self-sustainable journey with a DIY elevated deer stand that will bring a fun and practical addition to your homesteading adventure. This tutorial demonstrates how to build a 4×8 elevated deer stand or hunting blind, proving functional and engaging. Anyone can enhance their woodland spaces with minimal equipment and a do-it-yourself spirit.

As they utilize their 18-acre land, they inspire others to embrace simple and sustainable lifestyles, turning dreams into reality. Every step in their process, from suburban life to rural homesteading, brims with useful insights and wholesome experiences.

This tutorial doesn’t just guide you in making a deer stand; it fosters a deeper connection with nature and stirs the innate human desire for simplicity and sustainability. Build your deer stand today and start your adventure!

16. DIY Gaint Deer Hunting Blind With Scrap Wood

Venture into the world of DIY wildlife ventures with a comprehensive guide on building a deer hunting blind using scrap wood. This project is an ideal opportunity for outdoors enthusiasts, promoting resourcefulness, creativity, and eco-friendly practices.

You’ll require basic tools and equipment, such as a hammer, saw, screws, and scrap wood. Preparation involves sourcing your materials and selecting an optimal location for your hunting blind. Following step-by-step instructions, you’ll build a sturdy and practical hunting blind, enhancing your hunting experience.

This innovative project utilizes waste materials and fosters a deeper connection with nature. The scrap wood serves as the main ingredient in this exciting project. Relevant to those interested in hunting, DIY projects, and sustainable practices, this giant homemade deer hunting blind promises an engaging, informative, and rewarding experience.

17. Homemade 7×7 Deer Stand

Gear up for a hands-on experience with this detailed guide on crafting your 7×7 deer stand! This unique project adds to your hunting skills and provides a practical and comfortable shooting box blind designed for effective deer hunting.

With this DIY guide, you’ll gain insights into building a sturdy 7×7 blind on top of a deer stand platform, all accomplished within an impressive 3-day timeline.

Learn how to enhance your outdoor adventures and foster your passion for hunting through this well-explained DIY deer stand walkthrough. It’s time to boost your hunting efficiency and enjoy an elevated perspective of your hunting terrain!

18. DIY 2×4 Deer Stand With Box Blind

Building your own deer blind can be a rewarding and fun project. Follow these DIY deer blind plans that will guide you step by step. Craft your hunting hideout with this DIY 2×4 deer stand and box blind – the perfect way to get close to wildlife! Perched 17′ high, this DIY stand offers a wide viewpoint and conceals you comfortably as you wait for whitetails.

Its construction materials include Ondura Premium Panels, which provide added concealment, with various tools like Counter Sink Bit, Better Vue Screen, and Kreg Forman, to mention a few.

The process is straightforward, and the end product serves the purpose effectively. Furthermore, the stand incorporates an optional blind and roof to enhance your hunting experience. Build your deer stand now and get ready for a productive deer season.

19. Cheap DIY Deer Stand in 10 Easy Steps

Boost your hunting experience with an economical yet effective DIY deer stand built by your hands! Understand the essence of constructing a sturdy, scent-free deer stand through a simple and concise 10-step process. The guide is designed to be customizable, fitting your precise requirements without the need to overspend on brands.

You can craft your hunting tower by incorporating resources like durable wood, common tools, and insightful tips. Appreciate the thrill of deer hunting from a vantage point crafted by you, adding an extra layer of satisfaction to your outdoor adventures.

The process will save you money and arm you with a skill useful for many hunting seasons. Build your affordable deer stand today and experience hunting like never before!

20. Simple DIY Deer Blind on a Budget

The perfect solution for the outdoorsman on a budget, build your DIY deer blind and get ready to make memories! With careful planning and a budget of around $500, you can build a robust 6×6 blind with a 7′ roof, elevated 6 feet off the ground, boasting a unique trap door entry.

It’s the perfect solution for those facing high wood costs but wanting to experience the benefits of a quality deer blind. This project results in a sturdy structure that fits the financial plan and meets the creator’s vision and satisfaction.

Look forward to detailed plans, available for free download soon that will guide you through the build process, offering clear instructions for an even more optimized design in the coming season. Make sure to follow the progress and start preparing for your own elevated box blind project.

21. DIY Custom Deer Blind

Take your hunting experience to another level with an insane custom DIY deer blind build, complete with a 32″ TV and 10,000 BTU Heater! This unique project brings comfort and convenience to your hunting activities, providing you with the ultimate hunting hub in the wilderness.

The materials needed include a ProCom MG10TBF 10,000 BTU Heater, a 32″ TV, an assortment of screws, an air fan, a flush mount, and more. With the right preparation, you’ll build a deer blind that provides an optimal vantage point and keeps you comfortable during long waits.

This project blends the thrill of hunting with the luxuries of home, making it a unique approach to outdoor pursuits. The step-by-step guide to building this great deer blind is straightforward and rewarding, giving you an elevated hunting experience. Transform your hunting activities today with this ultimate project!

22. Build Your Own Shooting House

Unleash your creativity in building a low-cost box blind for deer hunting with an insightful DIY guide that provides an efficient solution in preparing for the hunting season. This simple yet highly effective structure is built from readily available materials, making it a budget-friendly option.

The build requires a few tools and a dash of handiwork but promises excellent results in the form of a sturdy, practical shooting house.

Despite its uncomplicated design, it offers comfort and convenience for hunting enthusiasts, underlining its effectiveness as a significant asset for a successful deer season. Make the most of your hunting experience by building this user-friendly, cost-effective box blind today.

23. Building a 6×8 Octagonal Elevated Box Deer Blind

Gear up to take your hunting game to a new level with a 6×8 octagonal elevated DIY box blind. Designed to accommodate two adults, this spacious blind offers strategic visibility and comfort. With sheet goods optimization in mind, its dimensions have been tweaked to 5’10” x 7’10”, facilitating material utilization and cost-effectiveness.

It uniquely features a trap door entry for a discreet approach. Though you might not see significant savings from this optimization in a single build, multiple constructions will benefit. Embrace the thrill of the hunt in this well-designed and crafted blind. Start building today to enhance your outdoor adventures!

24. Portable DIY Hunting Blind

Explore the intriguing process of constructing a portable deer blind on a truck bed trailer, as depicted in a comprehensive DIY tutorial. This simple yet effective blind design aims to exchange ideas, spark creativity, and generate discussions among individuals eager to build their mobile blinds.

The guide also outlines potential custom additions, such as camouflage mesh curtains, gun racks, heater mounts, shelves, and hooks, that can be integrated into the design to enhance its functionality.

This cost-effective project offers an exciting DIY challenge and a practical application for outdoor enthusiasts. Embrace the joy of building your portable deer blind and make your hunting experiences more convenient and enjoyable.

25. Easy DIY Deer Blind Under $500

Intensify your hunting adventures with a functional DIY deer blind built for under $500! This shooting house is both cost-efficient and easy to construct, raising the bar of your hunting experience. With accessible supplies such as lumber, screws, and roofing materials, you’ll build a sturdy, reliable structure.

Preparations are simple: measure, cut, and organize your materials beforehand. You’ll follow a systematic construction guide that ensures your deer blind stands strong and true. Imagine peering out from your elevated perch, blending seamlessly into the environment, waiting for the perfect shot.

This deer blind is remarkable for its practicality, enhancing your hunting skills while providing a comfortable shelter. Build your deer blind today and elevate your hunting game to unseen heights. It’s informative, helpful, and engaging – a worthwhile project!

Conclusion:

In conclusion, these 25 free DIY deer blind plans offer various options for constructing deer blinds and stands to suit various preferences and budgets. Ranging from pallet-based designs to elevated options and even mobile blinds, these DIY deer blind plans cater to hunters at different skill levels. Utilizing homemade DIY deer stand plans coupled with creativity and resourcefulness, anyone can build a cost-effective and functional deer blind. So, gear up, pick a plan, and start making your very own customized deer hunting experience.

Need landscaping idea for your duck pen? These sturdy and non-toxic perennials for duck runs are great ones for adding shade, beauty, and even food to your ducks’ environment!

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Landscaping a duck pen is tricky. Just like with chickens, a fenced-in grassy area is soon reduced to bare dirt, once you add ducks!

But it’s completely possible to add wonderful foliage to your duck run – it just has to be sturdy enough to withstand quite a lot of nibbling, dibbling, and trampling. These non-toxic perennials are some of my favorites, and they hold up very well to lots of attention from our ducks.

Whenever you transplant something new into your duck pen, I highly recommend placing some sizeable rocks around the base, so that the roots can’t be unearthed. You’ll eventually be able to remove the rocks, once the plant’s roots take hold, and the earth settles and firms up. Ducks do love to dibble in soft, newly-turned dirt, and mine think that any kind of gardening is group play time!

My favorite perennials for landscaping duck runs

Grapes

Grapes might seem an odd choice, since ducks will clearly eat any grapes within reach, and it might feel like a waste of a good grape harvest. If you grow plenty of grapes for your family in areas the ducks can’t reach, though, it will give you nothing but joy to watch the ducks enjoying their own harvest in the fall.

Grapevines are sturdy, and if you train them on a trellis above the run, they can also be a wonderful source of shade!

Mulberries

Mulberries are a bit notorious for being messy – but in a duck pen, there’s nothing wrong with that! Mulberries are safe for ducks, and your feathered pets will adore gobbling them up as they fall.

Mint

Mint is so incredibly sturdy, and spreads readily. I actually hadn’t intentionally planted it in the duck yard, but it spread there from the other side of the fence and continues to thrive. The ducks enjoy nibbling at it, and it’s a very healthful herb for them. Thankfully, it’s so robust that they never decimate it.

Blackberries & Raspberries

Bramble berries are another wonderful source of food for ducks, and they’re not easily damaged. My ducks seem especially drawn to hanging out among the canes, and watching them stretch to reach the berries once they ripen is just adorably comical!

Comfrey

Comfrey is one of those plants that’s SO sturdy, it can be invasive. Sometimes it seems that the more it’s disturbed, the more it explodes with renewed vigorous growth. These are all wonderful qualities in a duck run! The comfrey in the photo above is small and just begin to grow for the season, but by mid-summer its leaves are so large it can actually serve as a source of shade for the ducks.

Blueberry bushes

Blueberry bushes can be a good addition to a duck run, once they get established. They’re much more delicate starting out, than blackberries, raspberries, or mulberries, so you’ll want to put a protective cage around them to keep them from being decimated before they really take hold. Once they’re sizeable, they can hold their own quite well.

Daylilies

It’s very important to note that there’s a big difference between daylilies and true lilies. Daylilies are edible for humans and ducks. Lilies are toxic. (This post has photos of both and will help you tell the difference. )

I’ve had daylilies in our duck run since we first built it, and they’ve not only survived, but spread. You can see that the plant above has been trampled and nibbled – but it’s doing just fine. Daylilies also provide a wonderful splash of color in the summer when they bloom, which is a joy!

Hostas

Hostas are safe to eat for both humans and ducks, and in my experience, they’re sturdy enough to hold up to the attentions of a flock of ducks. I’ve heard of other duck-keepers, however, that have had their hostas completely wiped out by their ducks.

I think it’s worth giving them a try, knowing that even if they do get eaten, they’re not toxic. That said – you won’t want to plant your only piece of great-grandma’s special hosta in your duck pen, just in case!

Rugosa roses

While any variety of roses are safe for ducks, I really recommend rugosas as being particularly hardy and standing up especially well to heavy duck traffic. While ducks will gobble down any blossom petals within reach, rugosa roses generally grow tall enough that many blossoms with thrive out of reach. Another benefit of roses is that rose hips are edible, and ducks really enjoy them!

This is the list I always send people, when they ask what I recommend for sturdy perennials for duck runs. How about you? What do you have planted in your duck run that works well? I’d love to hear, and hope you’ll let us know in the comments below!

If you liked this post, you may enjoy:✦ How long do ducklings take to hatch?✦ How many drakes can I have in my flock?✦ Hatching duck eggs with high hatch rates✦ How to raise friendly ducks✦ 11 types of poultry for homesteads and farms

Odocoileus virginianus

Maine is near the northern extent of the white-tailed deer range, and they live in many habitats here, from deep woods to farmland to suburban backyards.

Habitat

Major habitats that provide food and cover for white-tailed deer in Maine are forest lands, wetlands, reverting farmlands, and active farmlands. Forest stands containing little or no canopy closure, wetlands, and reverting and active farmland yield the largest and best forage within reach of deer. However, stands made up of mature conifers with tree height greater than 30 feet, crown closure of greater than 60%, and interspersed or adjacent hardwoods for browsing provide critical winter habitat for deer. Ideal deer wintering habitat is connected by other usable habitat to aid deer in moving between them. Currently, 94% of Maine is considered deer habitat; this excludes developed parts of the state. In practice, even a portion of Maine’s developed land is currently occupied by deer. Wintering habitat is more limited in availability, comprising only 2 to 25% of the land base in various parts of the state.

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Diet

Deer are highly selective herbivores, concentrating on whatever plants or plant parts are currently most nutritious. Finicky eaters, deer opt for variety over quantity, when feeding along in the woods and fields. Deer consume grasses, sedges, ferns, lichens, mushrooms, weeds, aquatics, leaves (green and fallen), fruits, hard mast (acorns, beech nuts, etc.), grains, and twigs and buds of woody plants. Contrary to popular belief, deer consume twigs and buds of dormant trees and shrubs only when more nutritious foods are unavailable. When restricted to woody browse, deer inevitably lose weight. During the course of the year, deer may browse several hundred species of plants. A few are highly preferred; many others are consumed only when the best forages have been depleted. Overabundant deer populations can reduce the abundance of preferred forages, while causing less-desirable plants to become more common. Extremely abundant deer can literally eat themselves out of house and home. At these times, hungry deer are underweight, prone to starvation and disease, produce fewer fawns, grow smaller antlers, and create increased conflicts with homeowners, gardeners, farmers, forest landowners, and motorists.

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Distinctive Characteristics

Maine is home to one of the largest of the 30 recognized subspecies of white-tailed deer. After attaining maturity at age five, our bucks can reach record live weights of nearly 400 lbs. Most adult bucks, however will range from 200 to 300 pounds live weight and will stand 36 to 40″ at the shoulder. Does are considerably smaller; they normally weigh 120 to 175 pounds live weight. Newborn fawns begin life at 4 to 10 pounds but grow to approximately 85 pounds live weight in their first six months of life.

Whitetails have reddish brown fur in the summer switching to a grayish brown in winter. Their trademark white tail, when erected, flashes a danger signal to other deer in the vicinity. Whitetails have keen hearing, made possible by large ears that can rotate toward suspicious sounds. They have wide-set eyes, enabling them to focus on subtle movements while maintaining an excellent sense of depth perception. Whitetails have a very keen sense of smell enabling them to sense danger, even when visibility is poor. They have long graceful legs, enabling them to cover ground quickly by leaping, bounding, turning and outright running at speeds up to 40 miles per hour.

White-tailed deer communicate using a variety of sounds, ranging from explosive “whooshes” when startled, to the barely audible mews and grunts a doe uses to tend to her fawns. Deer are very expressive; they employ a large repertoire of signals using facial expressions and body language. These postures help to maintain the dominance hierarchy within all deer groups. Deer also communicate using odors, which emanate from a number of scent glands.

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Nocturnal/Diurnal

White-tailed deer are crepuscular animals, meaning they are typically most active around dawn and dusk. This does not mean that deer are not at all active during the day. Deer activity may also be influenced by weather, seasonality, and human activity. During hot summer days, for example, deer are less active during the daytime and more active at night when it’s cooler. Conversely, deer may be more active than usual during cooler weather. Deer activity may increase throughout the day during the breeding season while bucks are actively searching for does that are receptive to breeding. Areas with a lot of daytime human activity – which may include in the woods during the hunting season if hunter densities are high- may see little daytime deer activity and increased nocturnality of resident deer.

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Seasonal Changes

Summer home ranges (area that an animal lives within) for deer in Maine are generally 500-600 acres but can vary from 150 to more than 2,000 acres. Movement by deer from summer to winter range can vary from less than a mile to more than 25 miles depending on availability and suitability of the winter range. Deer are not generally territorial (defend their home range against intrusion of other deer). However, pregnant does will defend a small birthing area (less than 20 acres) against intrusion by all other deer, for about a month.

Bucks annually produce antlers, which are made of bone. Triggered by day length and maintained by hormone production, antlers begin growing in April, and are nurtured by a velvety outer network of skin tissue and blood vessels. Velvet is shed when growth is complete in late August and September. The hardened, polished antlers remain until they are shed in late December to early March. In whitetails, antlers allow bucks to advertise and demonstrate their dominance; hence they play a role in reproduction. A buck’s first true set of antlers normally is grown by age one. Buck fawns, however, begin growing the antler base at one month of age. This base develops into two or three-inch velvet-covered “nubbins” by early winter. White-tailed does sometimes produce antlers, but this is rare. Does that do sprout antlers typically are older (5 to 15 years old); their antlers are usually velvet-covered spikes. Most antlered does remain fertile.

Each year, deer produce two coats of hair, each adapted to seasonal climate. In late spring, deer grow a coat of fine, short reddish hair. This pelage allows ample air circulation and helps the deer to stay cool in summer’s heat. During September, deer molt to a highly insulative coat which consists of a dense layer of fine woolly hair under a layer of long hollow brown, gray, and white guard hairs. The guard hairs can be erected to form a very thick insulative coat, which protects against the cold winds of winter. Fawns are born with a reddish-brown coat dappled with white spots. This affords excellent camouflage against detection by predators in the summer. By early autumn, fawns grow the typical winter coat.

Another adaptation for survival is the deer’s habit of storing fat for the winter. In autumn, deer accumulate fat under the skin, in the viscera, between the muscles, and in the hollow bones of the legs. This fat layer can comprise 10 to 25% of a deer’s body weight by late fall. In winter, fat is reabsorbed to provide much-needed energy to supplement inadequate diets of woody browse.

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Reproduction & Family Structure

The peak breeding season for deer in Maine occurs during mid-November, although some breeding may occur in October and as late as January. The onset of the rut in bucks and estrus in does is controlled primarily by decreasing day length. Does in estrus are receptive to breeding for roughly 24 hours, and if not successfully bred, they will come into heat every 28 days, until early winter. Bucks establish and maintain a dominance hierarchy; typically the majority of does in an area are bred by the most dominant bucks. Gestation period for deer is roughly 200 days, after which well-nourished adult does give birth to twins, triplets, and rarely, quadruplets. Fawn and yearling does typically produce one fawn, if they conceive at all. The peak fawning season in Maine is mid-June. In a typical year, each 100 Maine does will give birth to about 130 fawns. However, early fawn losses tend to be high; only 60 to 80 of these young deer typically survive their first five months of life.

What to do if you find a deer fawn all alone

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Survival & Threats

White-tailed deer can live to 18 years, but few deer in the wild live that long. Does typically live longer than bucks presumably because rutting behavior predisposes bucks to higher losses due to hunting, motor vehicle collisions, physical injuries, and depletion of fat reserves going into the winter. Deer populations subjected to high hunting mortality are comprised of predominantly young deer. Conversely, a greater proportion of deer annually survives to older age classes within lightly hunted herds.

Causes of mortality of while tailed deer vary throughout the state. In more developed areas, deer are commonly struck by vehicles, harvested by hunters, and killed by predators. In less developed areas, human-related deaths are relatively few, and adult deer are more commonly taken by predators, particularly coyotes, lynx, and bobcats. Young fawns may also be preyed upon by black bear, fisher, and fox. Deer of any age may succumb to malnourishment of other natural causes, particularly at the end of harsh winters and in the following spring. Presently, Maine’s deer are relatively disease-free, and there are no diseases with significant negative impacts on our deer populations at this time.

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Management & Conservation

Population and Distribution Trends

Maine’s white-tailed deer population has experienced periods of boom and bust, and circumstantial information suggests that the state’s deer population likely did not exist in high abundance prior to the arrival of European colonists in the early 1600’s. With a combination of harsh winters, a higher predator population, and perhaps a lack of young vegetative growth for forage, white tailed deer may have been restricted to the southern coast until the European colonization. With colonization, settlers began clearing the landscape through small-scale logging operations, triggering an increase in the growth of undergrowth, providing white tailed deer with an optimum mix of forage and cover. From then, deer expanded their range and became more common in central and northern Maine. After the extirpation of cougars and wolves from Maine, deer were able to farther expand and increase in numbers with virtually no predation. Still, deer numbers continued to fluctuate with winter severity and large-scale events that caused significant habitat changes such as fires or spruce bud worm outbreaks.

Historical Management

MDIFW began estimating deer populations in the mid-1950’s, enabling the state to better understand the status of the populations and create a more informed management decision process. Between the mid-1950’s and early 1960’s, MDIFW estimated Maine’s deer population at 250,000. Eventually, habitat changes, severe winters, coyote colonization, and increased hunting pressure led to declining deer populations, and Maine’s deer population reached an estimated 141,000 deer in the 1960’s. Following this time and continuing through the late-1980’s, Maine’s deer population expressed slow growth, eventually causing a series of new management strategies and laws that attempted to expedite the growth of Maine’s deer population. Finally, Maine’s deer population grew prolifically through the 1990’s as a result of the regulatory system that limited doe harvest, plus a series of mild winters. During this time, Maine’s deer population grew to an estimated all time high of 331,000, however, much of the growth occurred within the southern tier of the state. Generally speaking, the Department has been successful in achieving deer population objectives in central and southern Maine, where wintering habitat and other factors were more favorable. Achieving meaningful herd increases has been less successful in eastern and northern Maine. Today, deer abundance ranges from one to five deer per square mile in the north, to 15 to 35 deer per square mile in central and southern areas. Some locations, in which access to recreational deer hunters has been limited or denied entirely, support higher deer populations that are above socially acceptable levels. These latter areas are above desired population levels, and they are the focus of most deer/people conflicts in Maine today.

Current Management

Prior to 1975, MDIFW did not set specific goals or quantified objectives for the deer population, harvest, or hunter success rates. Most regulatory actions were made by the Legislature and they were reactions to severe winters, or perceived regional declines in deer abundance. Between 1975 and 1985, MDIFW initiated strategic planning for deer, part of which involved setting publicly-supported goals and objectives. In some areas, this meant attempting to manage deer populations to specific deer densities.

With the more recent implementation of a new Big Game Management Plan, the Department no longer attempts to manage deer to specific deer densities. That approach did not adequately account for many other important aspects of deer population management such as maintaining animal health and social acceptance of deer levels and limiting negative impacts of overabundant deer. Deer management in Maine currently strives to maintain deer levels that are socially acceptable and in balance with available habitat. In areas where deer numbers are not socially acceptable or where deer are causing significant damage to habitat, the Department employs a variety of small-scale management options to try and alleviate the problems.

Each year, MDIFW staff and contractors examine roughly 6,000-8,000 hunter-killed white-tailed deer to collect data on population sex ratios, age structure, estimated mortality and recruitment rates, and body and antler size to provide a clearer picture of the size and health of both the population and habitat. From these examined deer, we also collect samples from roughly 500 deer annually to test for Chronic Wasting Disease, one of the greatest threats facing deer in this country. For more information on data collected in support of Maine deer management, please visit our Research & Management Report (PDF).

Improving deer populations in Maine’s northern and eastern forestlands depends on protecting and increasing amounts of deer wintering habitat. Protection of deer wintering habitat has historically been dependent on landowner cooperation and has not always been possible. Beginning in 2021, MDIFW gained access to funding allowing for the purchase and management of deer wintering habitat, and efforts are underway to identify candidate parcels with willing sellers.

Many Mainers in areas of low deer density have begun artificially feeding whitetails, especially in the winter, which adds an important and relatively new dynamic to the deer wintering landscape in Maine. In Maine’s heavily developed southern and coastal regions, MDIFW staff will continue to develop innovative approaches to safely manage deer harvests in order to maintain deer populations at levels that provide hunting and viewing opportunity while alleviating negative impacts from deer. In all of Maine, we will need to improve access to huntable land through proactive landowner relations programs in order to keep deer populations at tolerable levels.

Current Research in Maine

Maine Deer Winter Mortality Study

Since the early 1970’s, Maine has used a metric called the winter severity index (WSI) to describe how Maine winters impact winter mortality rates (WMR) in deer. WSI is one of the cornerstones of deer management in Maine and impacts the number of antlerless deer permits allocated for hunters each year. Because ecological relationships change over time, this metric needs to be periodically re-evaluated.

For that reason, in 2015, the Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife (MDIFW) began a study to reassess the relationship between WSI and WMR. Doing so requires data on winter temperatures and snow conditions, which are used to determine WSI, and data on the survival rates of deer in the winter. Temperature data are provided by temperature loggers placed at 26 WSI monitoring stations throughout the state. Snow condition data are also recorded by biologists and volunteers at these monitoring stations. At the end of winter, in early April, data from temperature loggers and snow measurements are used to calculate a WSI value, which will inform permit allocations for the upcoming deer season.

From 2015 to 2021, MDIFW captured white-tailed deer and fixed GPS collars to them to monitor their movements and survival rates. D eer were captured in wildlife management districts (WMDs) 1, 5, 6, and 17.

The fates of these deer in conjunction with data on the severity of the winters they encounter will help to re-evaluate the relationship between WSI and WMR and help shape deer management in Maine in the future.

The major goals of this study are to:

1. Reevaluate the correlation between WSI and WMR for white-tailed deer
2. Assess seasonal survival rates for the adult deer population
3. Assess cause-specific mortality of our adult deer population
4. Reassess the current winter severity index and try to identify a new and more simplistic metric

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Living with Wildlife

How to Prevent or Resolve Conflicts with Deer

White-tailed deer are one of the most recognized mammals in Maine, with frequent sightings throughout the state. However, deer are known for entering and consuming vegetation around the home or in gardens. Learn more about how to prevent and resolve conflicts with deer

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You’ve heard great things about the range, accuracy, and knockdown power of 6.5 Grendel rounds out of an AR-15, and now you want to try it. We completely understand. Fortunately, modifying your AR-15 to load and fire 6.5 Grendel rounds is easy – all you have to do is replace the barrel, bolt, and magazine with 6.5 Grendel compatible ones.

Getting the right 6.5 Grendel barrel is especially important because it will determine the handling and accuracy of your gun. Keep reading to discover the best barrel length for 6.5 Grendel.

The Best 6.5 Grendel Barrel Length Depends on Your Needs

Understanding your shooting needs is the first step toward picking the best 6.5 Grendel barrel length. For instance, if you plan to hunt, you will need a long barrel that delivers enough velocity and stopping power to take down your preferred prey.

Long-range shooters also need a long barrel that delivers enough velocity to hit far-away targets. However, your barrel can’t be overly long. A too-long barrel will make your gun bulky and clumsy, leading to trouble wielding and aiming your gun.

What about home protection, self-defense, or combat training? For such scenarios, you don’t need a barrel that delivers maximum range. Instead, go for a gun you can easily and quickly pull, aim, and shoot. Short barrels are best for this because you can easily move the gun within the closed spaces of your home or during close to mid-range combat.

What Are the Most Popular Lengths for 6.5 Grendel Barrels?

What counts as a long or short barrel will depend on your ammo type. For instance, unlike 9mm barrels that can be as short as 4.5 inches, the shortest 6.5 Grendel barrel you can get is 12 inches. Why? Since 6.5 Grendel is a mid to long-range ammo, it requires a barrel that can support that range.

Below are the most popular 6.5 Grendel barrel lengths:

• 12.5 inches: A 12.5-inch 6.5 Grendel barrel is ideal if you want to keep your gun as compact and light as possible for easy wielding.
• 16 inches: A 16-inch 6.5 Grendel barrel is a mid-length barrel that offers better muzzle velocity than 12 inches without overly compromising maneuverability.
• 18 inches: The 18-inch 6.5 Grendel barrel is popular among shooters who want to hit far-off targets.
• 20 inches: If you want maximum velocity and range, a 20-inch Grendel barrel is the way to go.

6.5 Grendel Barrels for Long Range Shooting

You can hit targets up to 800 yards away with 6.5 Grendel ammo, but only if you have the right barrel length. A 20-inch barrel is long enough for complete gunpowder burning to generate maximum bullet velocity. The velocity generated by the long barrel will help your long-range precision shooting by making a round fly further on a flat trajectory before gravity pulls it off course.

While longer barrels are available, tests show that the velocity generated by a 22-inch barrel is close to that of a 20-inch barrel. Since the velocity gains from going 22 inches or higher are negligible, you are better off sticking with a 20-inch barrel. Also, getting a 22-inch barrel or higher may make your gun uncomfortably heavy and long.

Optimal Barrel Lengths for 6.5 Grendel Hunting Rifles

Among many hunters, 18 inches is considered the best barrel length for 6.5 Grendel. Since the barrel isn’t overly long, you don’t have to worry about your gun getting caught in bushes while hunting for prey. Also, the barrel’s length will not get in the way of pulling and shouldering your gun to take aim or make follow-up shots quickly.

Even better, an 18-inch barrel combined with a 6.5 Grendel round can generate enough power to take down most deer-sized targets at 500 yards. Also, an 18-inch 6.5 Grendel barrel offers enough stability and velocity to help rounds maintain course and remain accurate, increasing your chances of hitting prey in a kill zone.

The Most Versatile Barrel Lengths for Multipurpose 6.5 Grendel Rifles

Do you want an AR-15 that can multitask? If so, fit it with a 12.5 or 16-inch 6.5 Grendel barrel. These mid-length barrels offer the best of both worlds, keeping your gun easy to wield and offering impressive velocity and accuracy.

Barrel Length FAQs

Here are answers to common questions about the best barrel length for 6.5 Grendel:

How far can you accurately shoot a 6.5 Grendel?

The distance you can accurately shoot 6.5 Grendel rounds will depend on various factors, such as wind, barrel length, skill level, and bullet weight. In standard conditions, a 6.5 Grendel round can travel 200 yards without experiencing a drop. That means you get the most accuracy at 200 yards. However, a skilled shooter can compensate for drop and accurately hit targets at 800 yards.

What does a 6.5 Grendel compare to?

The ammo most similar to the 6.5 Grendel is the .308 Winchester. They are both long-range rounds, but the .308 Winchester has a slightly larger diameter. The bigger size of the .308 gives it a bit more knockdown power than the 6.5 Grendel. However, the 6.5 Grendel takes the prize for accuracy because of its lower recoil and superior wind resistance.

Is it better to have a longer or shorter barrel for 6.5 Grendel?

Whether you should get a longer or shorter barrel for 6.5 Grendel will depend on your shooting plans. Go for a longer barrel if you want maximum accuracy and bullet velocity. However, if you want a gun that stays easy to carry and wield, you are better off with a shorter barrel. While a shorter 6.5 Grendel barrel has less range and power, it’s more than enough to take down targets at 200 yards.

How much does a 6.5 Grendel drop at 500 yards?

The drop of a 6.5 Grendel round at 500 yards will depend on your barrel and bullet weight. According to data from AmmunitionToGo.com, 6.5 Grendel ammo fired from a 24-inch barrel will drop 50 to 60 inches at 500 yards, depending on the specific 6.5 Grendel ammo you use. Hornady Match 123 Gr. ELD drops 51.3 inches at 500 yards, while Federal Gold Medal 130 Gr. OTM drops 59.48 inches.

Need a 6.5 Grendel Barrel?

Now that you have the scoop on the best barrel length for 6.5 Grendel, which one do you plan on getting? Don’t forget that the right barrel length for your AR-15 is one that fits how you intend to use your gun. Visit the Ballistics Advantage store today to browse and order your preferred 6.5 Grendel barrel and the other components you need to upgrade your AR-15 to take 6.5 Grendel rounds.

Many people love meat because it’s a good source of protein. Do you need ideas on the tastiest meat dish for your lunch or special event? You’ll never go wrong with well-cooked deer brisket, as it has a spicy flavor when you serve it hot.

The brisket on a deer lies at the bottom of a deer’s chest, in front of the ribcage. Removing a deer’s brisket involves removing the shoulders, backstrap, and tenderloins and cutting through the cartilage.

The rest of this article will:

• Delve deeper to explain where to find deer brisket.
• Discuss whether you must sear a deer’s brisket.
• How to remove brisket off a deer.
• Where to find the best meat on a deer.
• You’ll also learn the differences between venison backstrap and the tenderloin and what part of a deer is best for steaks.

Can You Get Brisket off a Deer?

Though tough, brisket is one of the most delicious meats in mammals, including deer. While butchering a deer to get the brisket may seem like a painstaking process, it’s achievable with the right tools and skills.

You can get brisket off a deer even though it’s smaller and leaner than a cow’s brisket. Using a sharp knife, you should remove it by cutting off the meat between the forelimbs on the deer’s chest through the cartilage. Also, cut out all fat up to the backbone.

Since a deer’s brisket is smaller than other big animals, removing it is a challenge to most people. However, when you follow the right butchering procedure, you can get the brisket off the carcass.

You can make the best fajitas, burgers, or sausages with this piece of meat or trim and grill it under higher heat.

Related Best Knife for Processing Deer | Hint: You Need Two.

Should Brisket Be Seared?

Brisket should be seared because it is essential to build up the meat’s flavor. However, you need to prepare it adequately before searing it and let it slow-cook in the oven or pan. Slow cooking makes the meat tender and easier for you to slice it afterward.

Searing venison brisket is a common preparation method in most traditional dishes as it adds flavor to the meat. Searing involves cooking the meat’s surface under high temperatures until it caramelizes, otherwise known as forming a brown crust.

Adding some oil creates contact between the brisket and the cooking surface.

• Before you sear the brisket, trim away the fat pad on the brisket’s outer surface. A large sharp knife will come in handy during this preparation step.
• Then, marinate it using salt, pepper, or other spices a day before you cook it.

Moreover, it’s important to remember that deer meat is generally tough, and storing it for a couple of days enables the aging process, which will make the meat tender, including the brisket. Do this before starting your cooking process, and you’ll have tender briskets.

After aging, trimming off fat, and marinating the deer’s brisket, you can now sear it.

If you notice that there are still some grey spots on the meat after searing, it means one side of the brisket didn’t cook well. To avoid these spots, you should ensure that you flip both sides to burn evenly.

How To Remove Deer Brisket

You might be thinking about getting a professional butcher to remove the brisket from your deer, right? However, there’s an easier way to do this in the comfort of your home.

Removing a deer’s brisket is one of the final meat-cutting steps of butchering.

After you’re through with the major butchering procedure, you can remove the brisket in a slab using the flat of your knife. Cut the meat carefully against the lower-chest region, trimming off the cod fat and tallow.

To get to the deer’s brisket, you have to butcher cut major parts. Here are the steps:

1. Cut and pull the shoulders from the torso of the deer to expose the cut zone which your knife will pass through.
2. Pull the front leg away from the torso, and with your knife’s blade parallel to the ribcage, cut the hinge area.
3. Remove the backstraps and the tenderloin, but trim away the excess fat layer first. To do this, find the hip bone and cut under this bone to the backbone on both sides. Loosen and get the meat off by ensuring that your knife is close to the bone.
4. Cut through the ribs down to the backbone. You’ll find the brisket on the outer surface of the ribs. Cut it off while your knife’s blade is against the lower-front chest region and remove any cod fat.

Check out this YouTube video that shows the process of removing a brisket:

Where Is the Best Meat on a Deer?

After butchering a deer, you’ll want to get the most out of the process. Many people go for the bigger and popular venison chunks. But where’s the best meat on a deer?

The backstraps and tenderloins are the best meat cuts of a deer. These parts are tender and will give you a succulent and delicious meal. Other preferred parts include the hindquarters, rump, and chucks.

Backstraps and tenderloins are a favorite to most venison lovers as they are tender and easy to cook. The hindquarters have a variety of uses, as you can use them as steak, in stews, kebabs, or jerky.

There are many other recipes for preparing this dish that you can try out on your own.

Is Venison Backstrap the Same As Tenderloin?

Differentiating between the venison backstrap and tenderloin can be a bit confusing.

A backstrap isn’t the same as a tenderloin. The venison backstrap is the meat along a deer’s spine on the outer part of the backbone. However, tenderloin sits beneath the spine, inside the abdominal cavity along the backbone.

Tenderloin is about 10” to 12” (25.4 to 30.48 cm) smaller than the backstrap but very delicious.

What Part of a Deer Is Best for Steaks?

Are you a steak lover? Well, you can make the best steaks from some parts of venison.

The hindquarters of the deer is best for steaks. The top and bottom rounds have extensive muscles but also have tender sections. They produce the best steaks and cuts for other dishes. Venison hindquarters are large, with cuts for various uses.

You can get the best steak from these parts in young or older deer. However, the bottom rounds are more tender than the top ones.

Final Words

You can get brisket off a deer by following the correct butchering process all by yourself. It may not be a very easy cut to make, but it’s doable. Once you have the brisket, you can leave it for a few days to age and then prepare it for cooking by marinating first.

Searing the brisket is also a great idea as it helps to lock in the flavors.

For more, check out The 5 Best Ways to Preserve Meat in the Wild.

DON’T MISS Episode 34 – 2022 Giant Gear Issue Series – Decoys with MOJO and Big Al’s

Big Al’s Decoys – Ken White Super Speck Pack Silos

Big Al’s Silhouette Decoys has teamed up with former World Speck Calling Champion Ken White to develop the Super Speck pack. Ken has spent decades hunting specks on his home turf in California, learning decoying tactics that pull specks in close to the guns. These highly portable and lightweight decoys feature photo-print realism, tough fluted plastic bodies, ultra-flat low shine finish and the choice of basic or spring steel stakes. Packed in dozens with 4 searcher, 4 feeder and 4 alert body postures included.

$66 per 12 | bigalsdecoys.com

Dive Bomb Industries – V2 Snow Goose Silhouettes

The winner, winner chicken dinner of silhouette decoys, Dive Bomb Industries’ V2 Snows, are painted with pure black and white colors that boost realism. Each decoy is crafted from a 4mm thick corrugated material that is durable and rigid. The images are printed using non-glare ink additives, and DPI (dots per inch) printing means each side of the decoy features the same quality look, and the one-piece powder-coated spring steel stake resists rust and ensures rapid setup and take-down. You can haul these decoys anywhere.

$70/dozen | divebombindustries.com

Dakota Decoys – X-Treme Sleeper Shells

Great for those cold, snowy day sets when honkers hit the field and go into nap mode, Dakota’s X-Treme Sleeper Shells are single-piece sleepers, which means no heads to hassle with. They are constructed of polyethylene to guarantee seasons of use, and there is no seam line for cold-weather outings to crack. The decoys come in packs of 12 and are available in a painted version with flocked heads and tails and a full-body flock.

$250-$310 | dakotadecoy.com

SX Decoys – Lesser Combo Canada Goose Flocked

From the minds at SX comes the fully-flocked Lesser Canada. Not only are these Canada imposters flocked, but they are built using Flocked Bird Vision color correction and Bird Vision UV flocking to ensure maximum realism. Available in packs of 6, 12, and 24, these fakes come with SX’s patent-pending motion system and loop kits installed.

$195-$770 | sxdecoys.com

Dave Smith Decoys – Snow Goose Juvie Combo

Fooling a flock of snows is getting harder and harder, but when you add a few of these 10-packs to your spread, wings will cup, and body counts will go up. The realistic fold-away legs make storage easy, and the newly designed motion cone gives these juvies just-right movement. Feather matched and showcasing a two-tone paint scheme, these ultra-realistic decoys are built tough and will provide you with years of use.

$390/10-pack | davesmithdecoys.com

GHG – XD Series Full-Body Honkers Active 4-Pack

GHG’s XD Mallards are well established in waterfowl lore, and this savvy decoy maker has taken the best characteristics of this mallard series and poured them into the XD Series Full-Body Honkers. A new RealMotion System married with FlexLock Technology perfectly combines realistic movement with an integrated locking system that secures the motion bases and decoys together. This means a one-piece decoy that is a breeze to set and pick up. The detail is elaborate, and flocked heads add extra realism.

$160/4-pack | banded.com

Real-Geese – Xclipse Shadow Series

An affordable, custom silhouette, Real-Geese’s latest addition to its impressive decoy line — the Xclipse Shadow Series — is winning waterfowling hearts. These two-sided silhouettes showcase a non-reflective, textured surface, and the lightweight plastic boosts durability while keeping weight down. Use these dekes as stand-alone-style or sprinkle them in with shells and full-body imposters. The Xclipse comes with 20-inch powder-coated stakes that drive into any ground, and these goose-dupers are available in one and three dozen packs.

$85-$255 | webfootdecoys.com

Higdon Outdoors – Clone Snow Goose

We love stacking up snows, but doing it regularly is getting more difficult. Many waterfowl biologists’ credit this to the lack of juvenile birds, which is a result of poor hatches. Fooling snows that have survived many migrations is complex, and Higdon’s Clone Snow Goose Decoy is what the Goose Doctor ordered to pull the dupe on flocks of mature snows. This fake mimics live birds’ realistic wing beat and accurate body posture. Plus, it’s bomb-proof and performs brilliantly no matter the conditions. This motorized snow goose imposter comes with a remote, stand, power cord, storage case, and requires a 12V battery—not included.

$300 | higdonoutdoors.com

Whitetail deer hunting is one of the most popular forms of hunting in North America. These majestic creatures can be found throughout the United States and Canada, and their impressive antlers make them a popular target for hunters. But have you ever wondered what the biggest whitetail deer ever killed was? In this article, we’ll take a look at the record books and explore some of the biggest whitetail deer ever taken down by hunters.

The Boone and Crockett Club

The Boone and Crockett Club is a non-profit organization dedicated to the conservation and management of wildlife and their habitats. Founded in 1887 by Theodore Roosevelt and George Bird Grinnell, the club is best known for its record-keeping system for big game animals. The Boone and Crockett Club’s scoring system is based on the size of the animal’s antlers, and it is the standard by which all other record-keeping organizations measure big game animals.

The Top 5 Biggest Whitetail Deer Ever Killed

According to the Boone and Crockett Club’s records, the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed are as follows:

1. The Jordan Buck – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Al Jordan in 1914 in Danbury, Wisconsin. The Jordan Buck’s antlers scored an impressive 206 1/8 inches.

2. The Hole-In-The-Horn Buck – This famous whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Larry Gibson in 1940 in Peoria County, Illinois. The Hole-In-The-Horn Buck’s antlers scored 205 0/8 inches.

3. The Missouri Monarch – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Jim Jordan in 1981 in St. Louis County, Missouri. The Missouri Monarch’s antlers scored 198 2/8 inches.

4. The Beatty Buck – This impressive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter James Beatty in 2000 in Greene County, Ohio. The Beatty Buck’s antlers scored 294 0/8 inches.

5. The Hanson Buck – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Milo Hanson in 1993 in Saskatchewan, Canada. The Hanson Buck’s antlers scored an impressive 213 5/8 inches.

While these are the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed according to the Boone and Crockett Club’s records, there are many other impressive whitetail deer out there. In fact, there are over 7,000 whitetail deer in the Boone and Crockett Club’s record book, each with their own unique story.

Factors that Affect Antler Size

While genetics play a large role in determining the size of a whitetail deer’s antlers, there are other factors that can affect antler size as well. These include:

1. Age – As a whitetail deer gets older, its antlers will typically grow larger.

2. Nutrition – A whitetail deer that has access to high-quality food sources will typically have larger antlers than a deer that is struggling to find food.

3. Habitat – Whitetail deer that live in areas with ideal habitat conditions (such as good cover and access to water) will typically have larger antlers than deer that live in less ideal conditions.

4. Hunting Pressure – Whitetail deer that live in areas with high hunting pressure may have smaller antlers due to the fact that hunters are selectively targeting larger deer.

Conclusion

While the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed are certainly impressive, it’s important to remember that hunting is about more than just taking down the biggest animal. It’s about being a responsible and ethical hunter, respecting the animals and their habitats, and enjoying the outdoors. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or just starting out, always remember to hunt safely and responsibly, and to respect the animals and the land.