People have used canine hunting companions since the first wolf nervously took a slice of meat from an ancient human hand. Deer hunting with dogs is a natural extension of that aboriginal relationship.

Still, modern hunters have mixed feelings about the practice. Some are ardent supporters of the method. Others consider it unfair and outdated. Let’s take a look at the history of deer hunting with dogs and why hunters are often so divided on the issue today.

A Rich Hunting History

Ancient cave paintings show images of dogs and humans hunting together, and when European settlers reached North America in the early 17th century, they brought their hunting dogs with them. Historians believe the first pack of hunting dogs in the American colonies was owned and hunted by Robert Brooke of Maryland as early as 1650.

In Europe, hunting was a pursuit exclusive to the wealthy ruling class. However, once colonists crossed the pond, hunting became a common man’s pastime that was essential for putting food on the family dinner table.

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How Hunting Deer With Dogs Works

Although a solo hunter can tramp through the woods with a dog and shoot whitetails on the jump, most dog hunting (a term that doesn’t at all infer shooting dogs, but rather refers to the practice of using hounds to jump and chase whitetail deer) happens in groups.

A group of hunters (or “standers”) surrounds a piece of property before the dog handlers (usually called “dog drivers”) release hounds onto the parcel. The drivers and their dogs work toward the standers until they either jump a deer or pick up a fresh scent.

A good jump dog will squall when he’s on a track, and the rest of the pack will chime in like a chorus. There are few things more adrenaline-thumping than the braying of hot hounds echoing through thick woods, especially when that sound is hastily heading your way.

Experience usually influences the exact positions of the standers. Many hunt clubs use the same blocks of land, sometimes for generations, for so long that hunters know the deer’s preferred escape routes. Those spots will be either numbered or named, and hunters draw for a stand or grab them on a first-come-first-serve basis to cut off the deer as they try to evade the dogs.

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Is It Fair Chase or Not?

One reason hunting deer with dogs is so controversial is because some think the practice unfairly swings the odds in the hunters’ favor.

It’s true to an extent. Dogs will flush deer off their noonday beds and bust them out of swampland so thick that most humans wouldn’t dare venture into it, even with snake boots and brush chaps. When deer turn nocturnal in the late season, dogs often provide hunters the only chance of glimpsing big bucks bent on tucking in until nightfall.

However, both the Boone and Crockett and Pope and Young record books, which have detailed rules of fair chase, recognize bucks taken in front of dogs in states where the practice is not prohibited.

Anyone who thinks deer hunting with dogs is “cheating” seriously underestimates whitetail deer’s intelligence and wily survival instincts. Every hunter with deer dog experience has a story of a whitetail that “gave the dogs the slip.”

Deer in areas with active hunting clubs and trained dogs seem to pick up “dog smarts” early on. Whitetails chased by piles of canines learn how to trick the hounds as a matter of survival. They probably picked up the skills from Mom.

I once watched a big mammy doe and her button-head fawn hoodwink some hounds during the Virginia bucks-only season. I saw them trot across a dirt road well ahead of a braying tussle of dogs. A full minute later, both deer sailed back across the path straight in the direction of the approaching pack. Not so much as a whiff of a hoof touching the lane. Not 30 seconds later, the dogs came through hot, wailing and yapping their way across the path in the same spot the two deer had initially crossed. Unlike the deer that had circled back, the dogs kept going. Eventually, their yowls grew slower, less sure, and spaced apart. They’d lost both deer.

It’s what Terry Jones calls “the old double-back trick.” Jones was a dog driver for decades before he was elected huntmaster for Bacon’s Castle Hunt Club, one of the oldest clubs in Virginia that encourages deer hunting with dogs.

“I’ve seen that one more times than I can count,” Jones told Free Range American. “It’s harder than anybody thinks it is to kill a deer in front of a dog. The deer learn the tricks because if they don’t learn, they don’t make it to the next hunting season.”

Successfully shooting a deer running for his life is no easy feat. Shot opportunities in front of dogs rarely last more than seconds and almost always involve a fast-moving target. Wounded deer are an unfortunate part of the process.

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The Southern Tradition of Deer Hunting With Dogs

While deer hunting with dogs was once a fairly common practice across the U.S., the practice is dwindling. Most states have laws that either severely restrict or outright ban the use of dogs to hunt deer.

The Deep South, known for holding tight to tradition, is the last haven for dog hunters. Florida, Mississippi, Louisiana, Alabama, Arkansas, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia are the only states where hunters can use dogs during deer hunting season.

Whether you agree or disagree with the use of deer dogs largely depends on where you call home.

Dog hunting in the South intertwines with southern identity, woven into the fabric of Southern culture, and a porch-sitting deerhound is as much a Southern icon as tobacco fields and southern drawls. For many Southerners, asking them to give up their deer dogs is like asking them to quit grits cold turkey. It just ain’t happening.

Some folks consider hunting whitetails over bait unethical. However, there are plenty of areas where the practice is perfectly legal, and a good number of deer hunters fill their tags over a pile of corn without feeling an ounce of guilt.

Hunting with dogs is the same way.

Hunting culture is an awful lot like culture in general — the practices we grew up with are generally considered acceptable. I was raised in the South, which explains my affinity for sweet tea, my overuse of the words “y’all” and “yonder,” and why I have no beef with dog hunters.

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Drawing the Line

Deer seldom pay attention to property lines, and neither do dogs. While responsible hunters will respect them, dogs don’t understand arbitrary boundaries and will blow right past a posted sign when they’re hot on a trail.

According to the Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries, hound hunts for deer historically took place on “farms with contiguous areas in excess of 20,000 acres.” Modern hunt clubs in the Old Dominion typically have access to smaller fragmented parcels.

As large swaths of rural farmland are carved into smaller plots, managing and containing a group of scent-drunk hounds inside invisible borders is practically impossible.

Most modern hunters keep track of their deer dogs with pricey GPS collars. However, many property owners frown upon crossing onto private property to retrieve their hounds.

“Today, dog hunting is so high-tech. With tracking collars and GPS, every dog driver is watching his dogs go through the woods on a screen on his dashboard,” Jones said. “We used to lose dogs or spend days looking for them, but with the new technology, the guys can see the dogs heading towards the roads or pieces of private property and then cut them off before they get there.”

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What Breeds Are Used to Hunt Deer

You’re most likely to find hound breeds with hot noses and a strong prey drive, thrumming with electric anticipation in a truckbed dog box on any given weekend of whitetail deer season in the South. Most are treeing walkers, foxhounds, blueticks, beagles, or some mongrelized combination of all four.

Hunting with dogs is an intimate affair, and dog drivers sometimes understand their hounds better than their wives. A good handler can pick out each individual voice in a bawl-and-chop chorus, and he can tell by the pitch and rhythm of the song whether that dog is running hot or following a cold trail.

A good number of hunters bond with their hounds like they bond with their hunting buddies, building relationships in the field that can’t be duplicated anywhere else.

Old-timers tell tales of their best-running hounds long after those companions lie cold in a grave, the dogs who “could run a two-day trail” or “would run a deer three counties over without falling off.” They tell the stories with affection and a sense of deep respect that borders on awe.

Those relationships, with both the hounds and the hunters, are why seasoned sportsmen like Jones stick with dog hunting.

“I stay at Bacon’s Castle for one reason: dog hunting,” Jones said. “Because I love it; I love hearing the dogs run, and I love the camaraderie, plain and simple.”

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Young Hunters

I used my daddy’s Remington Wingmaster to shoot my first deer in front of two loudmouthed Virginia beagles named Herman and Big Girl. I was 12 and wiggly, with an attention span that would make a goldfish seem focused in comparison. Both of my sons also shot their first deer in front of dogs.

Young hunters often have a hard time sitting still and quiet long enough to see the game, but dog hunting can be an exciting introduction to the sport.

The fast pace of the hunt and the dogs’ excitement work well for the short attention spans of some young hunters. And hooking youngsters on the sport is crucial as deer populations rise and hunter numbers decline.

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Deer Dogs Under Attack

Although hunting deer with dogs is a long-standing tradition, it certainly doesn’t appeal to everyone, which is apparent in the historic chipping away of the practice spanning almost 300 years.

The Virginia House of Burgesses passed the first deer dog restrictions in 1738, requiring owners to confine their canines except when hunting deer.

In 1876, Wisconsin was the first state to ban deer hunting with dogs completely. By 1920, every state not below the Mason-Dixon line had outlawed deer hunting with dogs.

As dog hunting makes its last stand in the Deep South, not all Southerners are keen on the practice. A 2015 survey of North Carolina hunters indicated that 46% of more than 5,000 deer hunters questioned believed dog hunting should be illegal.

Interestingly, most hunters opposed to the practice had never hunted with dogs.

Perhaps because once you’ve heard a choir of deer dogs singing their way up a river bottom, you’ll be hooked for life.

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Know your limits and what species you are shooting!

Make sure you know how many and of what species you can legally harvest. It’s tempting to just blast away at first light at the first bird you see but take the time to harvest the right birds, it’s the law, too. There are plenty of identification guides online like this one from Ducks Unlimited.

Also, learn what the ducks sound like as a secondary identification source. It can get wild and crazy when a lot are flying so taking the time to learn can save a lot of heartache.

Brrrrrr, layer up!

Its gets cold, so layer up! You can always shed clothing if needed. It’s a fact…it’s colder by the water and that wind stings a bit more with every guest. Layering up will make sure you are plenty warm. Most importantly, cover your head as you lose most of your heat through your head.

Don’t let ‘em see you

Camo is a must! Moreover, if you have a new outer layer (jacket, bibs, etc) rub it around in some dirt to remove the new sheen. Make sure you attempt to match your camo to your hunting grounds as best as possible. Them ducks see real well, so a camo that doesn’t blend is almost as bad as not wearing camo at all.

Don’t Look Up!

Ducks can see incredibly well. Looking up at circling ducks is like shining a spotlight at them! Its sounds funny but go outside and practice looking up with your eyes and not your head. Also, wearing a facemask will help if you have to look up!

Quack, quack calling

Learn how to call but don’t overdo it. The less the better, normally. Don’t try to master every duck noise at once…ease into it. The basic mallard quack, feeding call, hale call and a basic whistle to mimic a teal drake will help them get in range.

Late Season Birds are Spooky

Cut down on your decoys and calling the later in the season. Birds tend to get smarter the more they are shot at. How would you feel if at every restaurant and hotel you stopped at on a thousand mile trip you were shot at? Yeah, you’d be a bit edgy and beyond careful. I typically will only use 2-4 decoys late in the season and no motion type decoys. They seem to avoid those late in the year.

Movement in the Decoys

Ducks don’t normally just sit there. So if you don’t have any wind to move them around purchase a jerk string to add some movement. The spinning wing decoys work well early in the season too but don’t over do it! Sometimes too much movement is a unrealistic.

Match your shot size to your target

No point in firing #2 steel shot at teal ducks. You’ll blow them to pieces. With bigger ducks such as mallards and gadwalls #2 is suitable. There are many guides online that offer recommendations for matching the bird shot size to your prey such as this one from Outdoor Life.

Early Teal Season

There is nothing better than coming back from the morning hunt with a stringer full of teal! Teal are the first birds down in September in Texas where I hunt! Early season teal sometimes act as though they left their brains up north, so take advantage!

They are very fast flyers and are suckers for decoys. No reason to get a teal motion duck decoy. We throw a MOJO dove decoy into our mix and it works great! They are mighty tasty so try eating them Texas style! Cut a slit between the meat and the breastbone on either side and placing a slice of a Texas 1015 onion on one side of the dove breast and a jalapeno on the other side.

Learn the basics of consistently finding and catching perch an exciting opportunity for angling on lake Erie.

I think it’s fair to say that perch often get a bad rap. For a fish that is often plentiful in numbers, relatively easy to catch and amazing table fair, it is an unwarranted depiction to those in the know. You don’t need to be a decorated angler to have success when perch fishing and they are much less fussy than their cousin, the walleye.

While they can be found in decent numbers in a number of Ohio inland waterways, Lake Erie is still the king of perch waters. Here are few things to consider next time you desire some angling fun or just some amazing eating fish fillets.

Where to Find Perch on Lake Erie

One of the best things about perch season is it tends to startup in the early summer when the walleye bite begins to slow, lasting well into the fall. From year to year the larger schools can seem to vary from the Western Basin all the way east to the Ohio boarder. Local bait shops that sell minnows are your best option to get you in the ballpark with which areas have been fishing well closest to you.

Perch are very similar to many species on large bodies of water, they tend to move as their food does and water conditions change. Using 2D sonar and even more modern down imaging sonar is an efficient way to stay on these moving pods of fish. Look for a lot of clutter generally from the bottom and up to four feet off of it. Empty screen means a tough day so spend some time driving around to locate these pods on your sonar before fishing.

Positioning Your Boat for Perch Fishing

Once you locate a school of perch far and away the best method is to hold directly over them vertically. On larger boats this means using a good ole fashion anchor. Smaller trailer boats that are able to be outfitted with a bow mount trolling motor have a big advantage however for their ability to “digitally anchor”. Modern day trolling motors offer an option called “spot lock” which basically allows you to hover in place without doing any more than touching a button. This hands-free option keeps you from having to hoist a heavy anchor up and down. If we are honest, it keeps us from getting lazy and encourages moving to new spots as well.

Choosing Lure for Perch Fishing on Lake Erie

When fishing for many species such as bass the lure options and what anglers carry can be extremely diverse, but that really isn’t the case with perch. Instead, several different variations of a minnow harness are used to fish on bottom with two to three single hooks. Years ago, a traditional spreader wire with two short snelled hook leaders were the overwhelming favorite, but in recent years other rigs that more resemble a crappie rig have dramatically increased in popularity. A crappie or drop shot style rig allows anglers to fish several hooks at different depths above the bottom to cover the water column more easily. Truth is both styles have there day and as compact and inexpensive as they are it is worth having both on hand.

Choosing Live Bait for Perch Fishing

Rather you prefer a spreader or a crappie style rig chances are you are going to bait it with a shiner. Small sized emerald shiners are the most desired bait, but they can be tough to come by at times and difficult to keep alive. Bait shops are often out of emerald shiners and it forces anglers to use the more readily available golden shiners. While not as preferred, they will catch perch but due to their larger size it is often wise to cut them in two, using either the head or tail section on a hook. Pay attention to if the head or tail sections get more bites and make adjustments from day to day and seemingly from hour to hour at times. Another good trick is to salt and freeze leftover shiners for future trips. It’s a good way to make sure you aren’t without bait and can save you some money in the process.

Proper Rod and Reel Setup for Perch Fishing Lake Erie

I think it fair to say you don’t need a high dollar setup for perch fishing, but you do need just the right action. Perch are magicians at striping your hook and you need a rod that has enough power to get them up off the bottom and work a weight heavy enough to keep you down on the bottom. The trick being it needs to also be light enough to feel the slightest tick. For most this means looking at a light power fast action spinning rod spooled with braided line in the 6’ to 7’ range. Braided line has low stretch and makes feeling the slightest tap much easier. A high visibility braided line is also preferred so you can see where your line is and the instant it touches bottom or moves to the side from a lite bite.

Fishing Techniques for Catching Perch on Lake Erie

Perch attitude can go from biting at will to not being able to do anything right at the flip of a switch. Switch weights as conditions change and only use a weight heavy enough to constantly maintain bottom contact and stay vertical. Some days you need to keep the rig right on the bottom, while others you need to keep it off and often just start slowly lifting it to get bites. Some days it needs to be almost motionless and others they seem to want it jigged or moved a little bit. Reality is there is no technique that always works so keep an open mind and pay attention to whatever the person is doing that is getting the most bites in your boat.

The more you perch fish the more nuances you will discover, but you can make it as simple or as complicated as you want. While we can argue that walleye is better than perch or which type of rig to use, we can’t argue that perch are simple, inexpensive to fish for and make amazing table fair. I think this is enough to warrant giving perch a shot this fishing season.

There are a million different ways to catch trout. Bobbers and bait, spinners, crankbaits, and flies are all effective. But if I had to pick one way to fish for trout forever, it would be with spoons.

That’s because not only are spoons incredibly versatile, but they’re also one of the most fun and active ways to fish. You can troll them deep for lake trout, cast and retrieve them in lakes or big rivers, or flutter them through small streams. Spoon fishing can feel like an art, but it’s much more beginner-friendly than fly fishing.

There are about as many different spoons as there are anglers, but the best of the best spoons have stood the test of time. In this article, I’m going to go over the only 7 spoons you’ll ever need to catch trout. They each have their own subtly different advantages, and if you carry a few of them with you then you’ll always have a trout-slaying lure in your tackle box.

When it comes to trout fishing, simple is usually best, and spoons are about as simple as they come. Essentially, a spoon is just a single piece of oblong-shaped shiny metal with a concave surface (hence the name “spoon”). Actions vary, but they’re generally designed to wobble and flutter around when they’re retrieved, reflecting light at all angles as they go.

Their wobbling and flashy action is supposed to imitate small baitfish that aggressive, adult trout feed on. But even trout that feed primarily on insects will hit spoons, too, because that irresistible wobble triggers their instinct to strike.

This article is about spoons, so of course, I’m sticking to spoons. But if you want the lowdown on the best trout lures (including spinners, jigs, and crankbaits), check out my article on it.

And if you’re totally new to trout fishing and want a rundown on how to do it, check out my post on trout fishing 101.

You can skip this section if you’d like, but I want to give some background before I get into my rankings. The genius of a trout spoon is that it can be fished in more ways than you can count, and each spoon has advantages that work better for different situations.

Trout spoons are great for their versatility. You can crank them in, slow retrieve for a heavy wobble effect, or jig and drop to let them flutter on the fall. But you need to know what to try and when, so here are some basic rules.

Best Line For Spoon Fishing Trout

Spoons are for aggressive trout, so you don’t have to worry as much about using light line. Still, I like to use 4-6 pound test monofilament line for easier casting. If I know the water has potential for lunker brown trout or 20-inch rainbows, I’ll size that line up to 8 or even 10-pound test. When I fish for steelhead, I’ll use anywhere from 12-20 pound test line (usually depending on water clarity).

I also like to use fluorocarbon leaders (when I can afford it; check out my post on the best fluorocarbon line for any budget). Fluorocarbon sinks, helping spoons get down quicker in fast water. Fluorocarbon is best paired with 10-pound test braid, which is very thin and cuts through current easier than mono.

I wrote an entire post on the best fishing line for trout, broken down by species and situation, so check that out if you need more detailed info.

How To Retrieve Spoons

Every spoon lends itself to different kinds of retrieves, which I get into in my rankings below. But a typical spoon retrieve is steady, and just a little slower than you would need to fish an average spinner.

Certain spoons, like the Kastmaster, also work really well when retrieved erratically. Spoons like these have a lot of action when falling through the water column, so letting them stop and drop every now and then can be the key to getting strikes.

Then there are what I like to call “flutter spoons” like the Little Cleo. These spoons work great when cast upstream and reeled very slowly through a run or tailout. The current will do most of the work, and they’ll flutter and roll as they move downstream. Reel in just fast enough to keep them off the bottom, and let them swing across the current when they get downstream of you.

Finally there are spoons that work great for trolling, like the Krocodile. These can be cast and retrieved, too, but they’re also great for trolling deep for lake trout or big lakes rainbow trout.

Overall, the best way to retrieve a spoon is the way that’s working that day. Being adaptable is key. Mix up slow, fast, and jigging retrieves until you figure out what’s working.

Honestly, ranking trout spoons is hard. There are standouts, and every spoon on this list has stood the test of time. But the reality is that any of them might be best for any given river, day, or trout species. They’re all proven to catch trout and they all deserve a place in your tackle box.

With that said, here are the best trout spoons, ranked by popularity, reliability, and of course, my own personal opinion.

As many trout anglers will tell you, if you only buy one spoon, make it a Kastmaster.

That’s because of all the spoons on the market, the Kastmaster is the most versatile. Its unique flat shape allows it to be fished in any way imaginable. You can troll at high speeds without sacrificing action, you can cast it a country mile, and you can even jig it vertically for incredible results. It’s so versatile that I even wrote a whole post about it, so check that out for more details (LINK).

Kastmaster comes in a ridiculous amount of colors, but like any good trout spoon, the best colors are gold and silver. Anywhere from 1/12 oz to 1/4 oz work great for trout fishing, but 1/8 oz seems to be the sweet spot for rivers and lakes, and I like 1/12 oz in shallow creeks.

#2. Acme Little Cleo

Being from the northwest, I really wanted to make the Acme Little Cleo lure my number one. It’s a steelhead killer (steelhead are just ocean-going rainbow trout), and the coastal guides and locals swear by it. The Kastmaster is a tiny bit more versatile, but if you were only going to buy two spoons, the Little Cleo and the Kastmaster complement each other perfectly.

While the Kastmaster has a quick, aggressive action that triggers a quick bite, the Little Cleo is a bit more on the finesse side. Letting river current do most of the work is key, and the way that current deflects off of a slowly sinking Cleo can be absolute magic.

Cleo’s excel when swinging through tailouts and slower water. Their perfect flutter as the current slows down is a trout magnet, perfectly imitating a wounded baitfish that got swept through the faster current above. The best way to fish them is to cast slightly upstream and keep the line tight, reeling very slowly to keep them moving downstream and fluttering the whole way through.

When it comes to Little Cleos, blue and silver in 1/6oz or 1/4oz is my go-to color. But solid silver, solid gold, and silver and red have all been solid trout catchers for me and the folks I fish with.

#3. Luhr Jensen Krocodile

The Luhr Jensen Krocidile comes in at number three because it’s one of the best trout lures for trolling. Its elongated design and spin create a more aggressive flash than most other spoons, and it’s killer when the trout are super aggressive. At 2 1/4 inches for the smallest option, it’s the longest lure on this list.

It might not be the best trout spoon for finicky fish, but when the bite is hot, the Krocodile can bring in more fish from longer distances. It’s a great option for speedy trolling in lakes, too, because their weight and elongated body keep them deeper down in the strike zone. I also like it for bank casting during the fall when big trout start to feed more aggressively.

I like these lures in silver and gold, but with the hammered finish. I think the dimples provide even more flash than the smooth versions, and that’s exactly what I use them for. Size totally depends on what I’m fishing for. When trolling for big lake rainbows I’ll use the 3 1/4 inch, 1 oz size, but I’ll size down when casting from the bank for smaller trout.

#4. Thomas Buoyant

The Thomas Bouyant comes in at #4 on my list because it does something that few spoons do: it works exceptionally well at slow speeds. That’s why it’s one of my go-to’s for high mountain streams or shallow creeks. It can be fished effectively at slower speeds than any other spoon on this list, but it still provides a ton of flash and wobble.

With the Buoyant, don’t even tie it on if you want to crank it in. It spins more than it wobbles, and it’ll quickly twist your line up if you’re not careful. Just flutter it and retrieve it slowly, which is great for inducing a strike from wary lurkers.

Copper is my go-to color, but the Rasta-esque “firetiger” can sometimes be the ticket to catching finicky biters. Since it’s a great small stream lure for me, I usually stick to the 1/6 oz option.

#5. Acme Phoebe

When I was first given a few Acme Phoebes, my first impression was “gimmicky”. The fact that it’s cut out into the shape of an actual baitfish seemed weird, given that spoons are really just for flash. But after fishing with them, I realized that something about those offset fin cuts gives the Acme Phoebe a unique action. Make no mistake: the Phoebe catches trout with the best of them.

Like the Thomas Buoyant spoon, it spins rather than wobbles, and it doesn’t sink as fast as most spoons. It works really well for fishing at slow speeds, which makes it a great option for small streams and shallow creeks. Silver and gold in 1/12 oz or 1/8 oz are standbys, but the rainbow trout color has also been great for me.

#6. Eppinger Dardevle

Though there are spoons that I like a little better these days, the Dardevle is still the classic of classics. It was originally released in 1918, and has probably caught more trout in its history than any other trout lure. When my grandpa gave me his old fishing tackle it was chock full of Dardevles, and he swore that those were his go-to trout catchers.

The classic Dardevle spoon color is red and white stripes. Probably because of nostalgia more than anything, that color is what I usually fish with. But trout love silver and gold, too, and there are plenty of color variations to try out. I like this heavy spoon best with a fast retrieve, which is killer for everything from lake trout to big river rainbows to northern pike.

Because it works best on big, aggressive fish, I usually fish for trout with Dardevle’s in the 1/4-1/2 oz size.

#7. Blue Fox Pixee

As a Northwest native, I have to give the Pixee a place on this list. My dad grew up fishing with them for king salmon in Alaska, and they have a special place in every salmon angler’s heart. But trout and salmon are in the same family, and Pixee’s catch tons of trout, too.

Pixees are big and heavy (the smallest option is 1/4oz), so they work best for long casts in deep water. Because I mostly fish smaller creeks, I don’t use them that often. But when the water is fast and deep, there are few better spoons than a Pixee.

My favorite colors are silver with fluorescent red or orange. They make a variety, so any classic trout color should work well.

#8. Everything Else

Spoons are pretty simple, so in all honesty, even Wal-Mart brand spoons will catch trout. But the lures on this list have earned their spots. They’ve been proven fish-catchers for decades, they last forever, and they’re made with quality hooks and materials. They also do something a little different than the rest, and most off-brand spoons are designed to imitate one of these classic 7.

If you do want to try out some cheaper brands, definitely go for it. But check out the hooks for sharpness, try to avoid painted ones (cheap paint is a common way to cut corners), and if it looks like one of the lures on this list, that’s probably a good sign.

FAQ

Spoons are trout fishing at its finest. They have survival kit-level reliability, are easy to use, and have enough versatility to fish any water you can find. If you keep a few of these spoons in your tackle box, you’ll never be without a secret weapon for catching trout.

By Dr. David Wartinbee, for the Redoubt Reporter

At this time of the year in Alaska, a drive of more than a couple hundred miles will involve some time during darkness. While heading north to visit friends during the holidays, I spotted a small, bright spot in the roadway ahead.

As my lights got closer, a huge, brown ungulate appeared surrounding that tiny light spot. I slowed appropriately. A few miles farther down the road, a pair of bright spots appeared on one side of the road. A second later I was able to see the faintly lit image of a lynx crossing the road. I had first seen both of these animals because of their tapetum lucidum reflecting my headlight illumination.

While many are familiar with the phrase, “A deer-in-the-headlights look,” not as many may realize there is an interesting anatomical basis for this situation. Most nocturnal animals, like dogs, cats, deer, etc., will demonstrate “eye shine” when a bright light is shown on them at night. What happens is the light entering the animal’s eyeball is being reflected right back at us as if there were a mirror in there. The mirror analogy is actually pretty close to what is happening.

In order to understand how the tapetum lucidum works, we have to know a little about the layers inside the eyeball itself. First, the retina is the thin, innermost layer of the eye and it contains the light-sensitive cells called rods and cones, and lots of blood vessels. In very close proximity to the rods and cones is a black layer called the choroid.

The important choroid layer absorbs light that has just passed by the light-sensitive

rods and cones. In humans that do not have a heavily pigmented choroids, like albinos, to absorb the passing rays, light gets reflected and scattered inside the eyeball. These individuals suffer with visual difficulties and even small amounts of light are blindingly bright.

In nocturnal animals with a tapetum lucidum, the choroid, or a special portion of the retina, will act as a slight reflector. The actual tapetum lucidum can vary in its composition depending on the specific animal. Since there are so many different animals that exhibit “eye shine,” it is easy to understand that there are many different kinds of reflective layers.

In some, it is composed of a special layer of iridescent crystals like guanine, or in others it might be a layer of cells with reflective fibers.

No matter how the reflection by the tapetum is accomplished, the incoming light is reflected right back past the very rods and cones that it originally passed. This essentially gives the rods and cones a second chance to detect the same light rays. That simple reflection greatly enhances night vision.

Also, by reflecting the light exactly back from where it came, the animal is able to create a crisp visual image rather than getting a blurry image that would occur if the light scattered randomly within the eyeball. It is believed that cats can see about nine times better at night than we can, since they have a tapetum and we do not.

The color of the reflective “eye shine” will vary according to the animal. Many reptiles

show bright red eye shine, while mammals vary from yellow, white, blue and green. There are variations even within the same species and there are lots of examples of one eye reflecting back one color while the other eye reflects back a different color. Along with birds, some fish, like walleye, have a tapetum.

Most primates — like humans — pigs, kangaroos and other day-active animals do not have a tapetum lucidum. Accordingly, our night vision is mediocre compared to those animals that are active at night.

Humans can produce a confusing situation known in the photography arena as “red eye.” This occurs when a flash of light illuminates the blood vessel-rich retina in the back of the eye and the eyes appear to be red. There is no tapetum involved here, just illumination of blood vessels. If the source of the flash were somewhere other than on the camera, there would be no “red eye.”

Imagine how our flash pictures might look if we had chartreuse-colored blood?

Another unusual situation in humans and some animals is the white glow that can appear in the eyes. This “eye glow” occurs when there are cataracts. The glow is caused by illumination of the crystals embedded within the lens of the eye and, again, is not caused by a tapetum.

Moose certainly have a tapetum lucidum, but I have wondered why we don’t often see the same bright headlight reflection from moose eyes that can be seen from smaller animals like dogs or cats. The answer probably comes from several different reasons.

First, moose are large animals and their eyes are often held above the level where our headlights are aimed. Because a moose’s eyes are on extreme sides of its head, it is difficult to see both of their eyes at the same time. So we most commonly get a reflection from only one eye at a time.

I have not been able to find much documentation on the size of a moose tapetum compared with other animals. However, after shining a bright flashlight beam at a moose from various angles, I have discovered that the tapetum in a moose’s eye is mostly in the very back of the eyeball.

When the moose is at right angles to you, your lights are not striking the tapetum, and you only get a slight “red-eye” reflection.

Only when the moose is looking directly at you, and they don’t do this all that often, will you see the bright, two-eyed reflection.

So, as a moose crosses the road, you and I get a single, slight reddish glow from an eye that is not reflecting back much light from our headlights. No wonder we don’t easily see that moose crossing up ahead.

The next time your lights fall on an animal and you see the distinctive “deer-in-the-headlights” reflection, you will know that particular animal is normally active at night. You’ll also know they have a microscopically thin tapetum lucidum in the back of their eyeball that aids in their night vision.

David Wartinbee, Ph.D, J.D., is a biology professor at Kenai Peninsula College’s Kenai River Campus. He is writing a series of columns on the ecology of the Cook Inlet watershed.

Themed parties are a great way to bring friends and family together for an unforgettable experience. If you’re looking for some unique ideas that will make your next themed adult party stand out, we’ve got you covered! We’ve gathered 6 unconventional themes perfect for getting everyone in attendance excited about the upcoming festivities. Whether you want something more subtle or outrageous and over-the-top, one of these six ideas is sure to be just what you need!

Mystery Dinner

Step back in time to the roaring 1920s where dinner parties were the events of the year. But this isn’t just any ordinary dinner, it’s a mystery dinner. As you indulge in a delectable three-course meal, you’ll work alongside your fellow guests to solve one of the most intriguing mysteries of the year. Who committed the heinous crime? Was it the sly butler? Or perhaps the sultry singer? With clues hidden throughout the room and red herrings designed to throw you off course, it’s up to you to put your detective skills to the test. So don your finest flapper dresses and fedoras, and join in on the thrilling fun of the mystery dinner.

Movie Night

Are you a die-hard fan of movie characters like Harry Potter, Luke Skywalker, or even the Joker? Well, get ready to bring those characters to life! It’s time for a movie night that’s unlike any other. You won’t just be watching your favorite films, you’ll be able to dress up as your favorite characters and even recreate some of the most memorable movie scenes of all time. This is your chance to unleash your inner actor and show off your creative side. So grab your popcorn, get your outfit ready, and get ready for an unforgettable movie night that will transport you into the magical world of the big screen.

Game Night

Looking for a fun and social activity to enjoy with your friends? Consider hosting a game night! Whether you prefer classic board games or challenging card games like poker, there’s sure to be something for everyone. You could even mix it up with a gel ball gun game for a futuristic twist! With snacks, drinks, and a little friendly competition, game night is the perfect opportunity to unwind and spend quality time with your friends. So clear your schedule, set up a game table, and let the fun begin!

Sing-Along Party

Get ready to belt out your favorite tunes with a sing-along party! All you need are some karaoke versions of your go-to songs and a group of enthusiastic friends. With each person taking turns to showcase their singing skills, it’s sure to be a night of non-stop laughter and fun. Whether you’re hitting those high notes or singing along to the classics, a sing-along party is the perfect way to spend an evening. So dust off your vocal cords and get ready to sing your heart out!

Old-Fashioned Tea Party

Step back in time with an old-fashioned tea party, where you can indulge yourself in an elegant and refined atmosphere. Bring out your fanciest tea set and set the table with elegant linens to create a vintage vibe that will transport you to a bygone era. Add a touch of sophistication with a selection of scrumptious scones, perfect for savoring with a generous dollop of clotted cream and jam. Sip on a cup of your favorite brew, and enjoy a delightful afternoon in the company of loved ones. Celebrate tradition and the finer things in life with an old-fashioned tea party that will captivate your guests and leaves them feeling thoroughly spoiled.

Art Show

There’s nothing quite like appreciating the creativity and talent of your friends. Hosting an art show is the perfect excuse to invite your creative pals over and showcase their latest masterpieces. From stunning paintings to intricate sketches, the possibilities are endless. And what better way to add some competitive flair than by offering a prize for the best artwork? It’s not just about winning though, it’s about sharing the joy of art and creating an environment where everyone feels inspired and supported. So why not gather your friends, break out the easels, and let the art judging begin?

No matter what type of themed adult party you’re looking to host, there are plenty of unconventional ideas that will make your event a hit. From movie nights and mystery dinners to art shows and old-fashioned tea parties, these six unique themes offer something for everyone. Not only will they create an unforgettable experience for the guests, but they’ll also give them an opportunity to show off their creative sides in a fun and supportive environment. So don’t be afraid to think outside the box when it comes time to plan your next themed adult party! With any one of these six ideas, you can rest assured that your gathering will be talked about long after it’s over.

Hunting season can mean a generous amount of deer meat to process and enjoy. But if you are like me, you set out a pack of venison to cook, and then life gets in the way…

Can you refreeze that venison after it’s thawed out?

The Deer hunting community seems to have this rumor floating around…” you cant refreeze deer meat!”

But that’s just not true…

You can refreeze thawed venison without safety concerns, provided you make sure it has been kept cool and dry, such as in the refrigerator. After that, the only real issue with re-freezing is that you may notice a distinct drop in taste and tenderness from moisture loss.

If you are looking into making the most out of your venison, keep on reading.

In the rest of this article, I’ll get into the details of how protein-rich and flavorful venison meat is processed and stored and how refreezing them could impact quality.

Table of Contents

• Can You Refreeze Defrosted Venison?
  • What Is Venison?
• What Happens When You Refreeze Defrosted Venison?
• How To Transport and Process Freshly Hunted Venison
• How Do You Store Venison?
• Do You Need To Freeze Venison?
• How Should You Thaw Venison?

Can You Refreeze Defrosted Venison?

According to the US Department of Agriculture, you can still refreeze thawed meat, although you must handle it correctly before being refrozen. This includes keeping venison thawed in the refrigerator for a maximum of four days or at room temperature for no more than two hours.

Thawed meat also cannot be left out of the fridge at a temperature above 90 °F (32.22 °C) for more than an hour.

Be mindful, however, that these standards are the essential elements of safely storing and preparing meat products for future consumption. Safety, though, does not necessarily guarantee quality.

Unfortunately, the taste and quality of venison can deteriorate when refrozen, so this is something you will also have to consider.

It’s also important to fully understand the meat you’re working with, as it has slightly different properties to beef and pork.

What Is Venison?

Venison is any portion of deer meat that is edible. Generally, venison includes all the deer’s internal organs, such as the heart, kidneys, liver, intestines, and of course the main cuts of red meat. It takes its name from the Latin word venatus, which literally means “to hunt.”

Composition-wise, it resembles that of beef and can also be prepared into similar cut-types such as chops, cutlets, tenderloins, and ribs.

In the United States, Canada, and other countries like Australia, deer hunting is extremely popular. Hunters help regulate populations, and in turn, provide funding through license sales that help fund conservation efforts.

Whitetail deer is the most popular big game mammal in the United States, and millions of ethical hunters harvest and process their own venison for the dinner table.

Me included!

What Happens When You Refreeze Defrosted Venison?

We’ve already established that refreezing defrosted venison a second time is generally safe, given that you observe certain safety caveats.

Many are curious, though, about the specific trade-offs when you refreeze venison and why it is usually discouraged.

While refreezing venison is safe, it can come with quality tradeoffs. In a mini-experiment, tasters compared two types of cooked venison meats, with the first thawed once and the second twice. They found the twice-frozen venison meat either less tender or less flavorful.

Still, it depends on the overall food preparation and handling, as one of the tasters reported that they did not notice any difference between the two types of meat’s overall flavor.

How To Transport and Process Freshly Hunted Venison

Freshly hunted venison needs to be processed correctly to avoid contamination and possible poisoning. Licensed venison processors adhere to safety standards to produce safe, retail-quality deer meat.

Upon transporting deer carcasses from hunting to initial processing, handlers must ensure that environmental elements or fecal matter do not contaminate the raw meat.

During transport, pack ice cubes into the deer’s cavity to keep its insides cold. Ice must be contained in a sealed pouch as once it melts, excess water inside the cavity may lead to spoilage. Carcasses must also be processed immediately and placed away from sunlight to maintain their freshness.

Especially when the ambient air is above 40 °F (4.44°C), hunters must refrigerate venison as soon as possible, ideally within three to four hours.

If you bring your venison carcass to a meat processor, they could refuse to handle it if they find apparent signs of meat mishandling. The measure is necessary to keep you and the rest of your family safe by consuming only fresh venison, so it is best not to argue with them.

How Do You Store Venison?

You should store venison below 4 °F (-15.56°C). Raw, uncooked venison also cannot stay in the refrigerator for more than four days. However, if you plan to cook it after a more extended period, there is always the freezing option.

Just make sure to portion your venison into meal-sized cuts to prevent you from thawing excessive amounts when you decide to cook it.

Also, ensure that the packaging you’re using to store your venison in before freezing is not permeable to the air.

Freezer burns often occur when meats are frozen in the presence of oxygen, resulting in the deterioration of meat quality, color, and taste.

To prevent freezer burns, wrap your raw venison portions in butcher paper. I recommend using Reynolds Freezer Paper Plastic from Amazon.com. This packaging has a wax-lining on the side the meat touches preventing oxygen from penetrating the meat during storage.

You can also invest in a vacuum sealer like the FoodSaver FM2100-000 Vacuum Sealer Machine System and buy rolls of vacuum-sealer bags like the Vacuum Sealer Bags Heavy Duty.

All you have to do is put your raw venison portions into the bags and let your vacuum sealer do the work. The sealer sucks the air out of the bag, ensuring that your venison is in an oxygen-free environment for the entire freezing time.

See Also: Can You Eat Venison Rare?

Do You Need To Freeze Venison?

You do need to freeze venison if you don’t plan on eating it right away to prevent bacteria and parasites from ruining it. At low enough temperatures, the activity of these organisms can completely halt due to the slow movement of molecules inside the meat.

The US Food Safety and Inspection Service recommend freezing all kinds of meats, including venison, to 0 °F (-18 °C) to keep them safe for consumption indefinitely.

However, prolonged freezing time may affect the quality of meat. Fortunately, the quality of frozen raw venison will remain more or less the same for 8 to 12 months as long as it is prepared and packed correctly.

How Should You Thaw Venison?

To thaw venison, you can either let it thaw in the fridge, immerse the whole package in cold water, put it in a microwave, or skip the separate thawing part and cook it immediately. The most important thing to note is that It is not safe to thaw venison at room temperature.

It will likely take one to two days to thaw venison in a fridge, and if you store them in large chunks, each pound of venison could take an additional five hours of thawing time.

If you need the thawed venison a little faster, you can opt for the cold water thawing. Place the venison in a leak-free container, usually a plastic pouch, and completely immerse in cold water.

While the last step can be much faster, you will also have to be physically present to change the cold water once every half an hour and check for possible water leakage into the meat as this could lead to spoilage.

See Also: Why Does Eating Venison Give Me Gas?

• How to Clean a Deer Skull Found in the Woods (EASY STEPS)
• 3 Easy Ways to Whiten Deer Antlers (Skulls)
• How to Preserve a Coyote Tail (Easy Method)
• How Dangerous is Public Land Hunting?
• How Much Do Coyote Pelts Sell For?
• Are Creeks Considered Public Land? Well…It Depends.
• Are State Forests Public Land?
• Can You Use Climbing Spikes on Public Land?
• Is it Legal to Pick Flowers on Public Land?

Vibrant blooms that will be smothered in butterflies and hummingbirds! You’ll be amazed by these extremely fragrant and ornamental vines! The sturdy twining vine Goldflame Honeysuckle (Lonicera x heckrotti ‘Goldflame’) is an incredibly hardy, native Honeysuckle Vine!

This vine has the scent of succulent sweetness as it drifts through the air from the long tubular blooms. Your Honeysuckle will easily grow to full length each year and start blooming in spring, lasting all summer long.

With no worry about invasiveness like other native species, Goldflame will fit perfectly into any garden design and size. The long tubular blooms are dark-pink and yellow and hang in bold clusters that absolutely smother this plant!

These 2-inch blooms appear in the hundreds and you will be amazed by these exotic flowers! They are a favorite among pollinators, butterflies and hummingbirds that will not be able to resist!

This is a vital source of nectar for all your beneficial insects and birds! With a longer bloom time than other Honeysuckle, you’ll have these visitors for weeks!

This vigorous vine can also be trained into a shrub or left to trail along the ground. It’s so adaptable to many conditions and very easy to manage.

These tropical flowers cling to a vigorously growing vine with reddish stems, and are absolutely vibrant as it twists and turns around your garden trellis and arbors.

Goldflame is a rugged semi-evergreen climber that’s virtually indestructible, even with haphazard pruning. Resistant to powdery mildew, Goldflame even tolerates some drought.

Each year, from June to September, you can look forward to lightly fragrant masses of deep pink and yellow, tubular flowers that give way to small inedible red berries in the fall which the songbirds just love.

How to Use Goldflame Honeysuckle In The Landscape

Despite being a fast-growing climbing vine, it won’t get into trouble in the landscape, Goldflame will ramble up trellis, fences and any place you encourage it to do so.

The Goldflame Honeysuckle is most often grown as a trailing vine with incredible flowers. It would create a dramatic effect climbing a trellis or your front porch rail.

Reaching near full height in a single growing season, this type of Honeysuckle is an amazing grower! Filling an area with deep blue-green foliage and bright blooms, these even work amazingly well in containers and act as both the upright thriller or a flowing spiller.

Lovely climbing over fences and hiding unsightly views while enhancing your own! These act as semi-evergreen in warmer growing zones and provide lush backdrop plants among your beds and borders. Beautifully spilling over retaining walls and rambling over hardscapes as an informal groundcover.

A delicious blend of hot pink and golden, exotic flowers smother this vigorous vine of vibrant blue-green as it twists and turns around your garden supports. Adapting to any style garden, these tame natives fill your landscape with color quickly! The long-lasting blooms are even suitable for indoor floral arrangements, filling your bouquets with sweet-smelling blooms.

Incorporate into your garden beds and borders on a trellis or an obelisk among your other planted flowers and perennials to add height, color, fragrance and drama throughout your landscape!

Looking fantastic growing up the columns of your pergolas and gazebos. No pollinator garden should be without something to attract butterflies and other visitors!

#ProPlantTips For Care

Deer resistant and extremely hardy, Goldflame Honeysuckle thrives in a wide range of USDA 4 through 9 hardiness zones. Just provide good air circulation and water to keep these bi-color pink flowers going strong all summer!

Loving the full sun, these are also tolerant of partial sun, especially when planted in hotter climates; appreciating the relief from the summer sun.

Goldflame is highly disease resistant and adaptable. Not particular about soil type, Honeysuckle Vines loves any well-drained soil that ranges from acidic to alkaline.

Take care when applying lawn fertilizers near flowering shrubs. These high nitrogen formulas are designed to produce foliage, but will not support flower development. Instead, apply an all-purpose fertilizer for blooming plants in early spring. Reapply in mid-summer, following label directions for application rates.

Flowering best in average moisture, Goldflame is very drought tolerant once established. Extremely easy care and low maintenance, these won’t need pruning but are highly conducive to pruning if needed.

Sometimes a plant performs just a bit too well in certain areas. Rest assured, Nature Hills uses Plant Sentry™ to track all federal, state and local regulations on invasive materials. We will always protect you and your community.

We’re happy to offer this selection for sale into areas where it will work beautifully without any concern. To check your availability, simply type in your Zip Code to Find Your Growing Zone in the section above the Plant Highlights.

You won’t go wrong by adding height, drama, color, and fragrance with these exotic blooms for your landscape! Goldflame Honeysuckle Vine is just the bold addition your garden beds have been craving! Order yours today from Nature Hills Nursery!

Causes of Bow Arm Shoulder Pain

Shoulder pain is almost inevitable for archers and bowhunters due to the repetitive motion of shooting a bow. This motion puts significant stress on the shoulder joint. According to a research study by van Doorn et al, shoulder pain is the third most common musculoskeletal complaint treated in physical therapy. From my experience as a physical therapist, I have found that shoulder pain is often caused by repetitive activities.

Common shoulder issues among archers and bowhunters include shoulder instability, scapular dyskinesis, rotator cuff disorders, biceps tendinopathy, bursitis, and shoulder impingement.

Shoulder instability

Occurs when the shoulder joint (glenohumeral joint) is unable to maintain its proper position due to excessive movement in the ligaments, joint capsule, or from insufficient dynamic stability of the rotator cuff musculature. This instability can result in frequent dislocations, subluxations, or allow excessive movement of the shoulder which causes undue stress and eventual pain, swelling, weakness, or limited range of motion.

Scapular dyskinesis

Refers to abnormal movement or positioning of the shoulder blades (scapula) during shoulder movements and limits the efficiency of the complex shoulder joint.

Rotator cuff disorders

Refers to a group of conditions that affect the muscles and tendons that attach the shoulder blade to the upper arm bone. The rotator cuff muscles include: supraspinatus, infraspinatus, teres minor, and subscapularis. These four muscles work to stabilize the shoulder joint and keep the ball and socket joint centered in optimal position. Rotator cuff disorders can include inflammation, tears, or degeneration resulting in pain and weakness.

Biceps tendinopathy

Refers to pain and inflammation of the biceps tendon, which attaches the biceps muscle to the shoulder and elbow. This pain is usually located on the front of the shoulder and can cause a popping sensation in the shoulder. Biceps tendinopathy can be caused by overuse, degeneration, postural abnormalities, or poor shooting form and technique, and can result in pain, weakness, and limited mobility.

Bursitis

Refers to inflammation of the small fluid-filled sacs that provide cushion between the tendons and bony structures. Bursitis can be caused by overuse or injury, and can result in pain and limited range of motion.

Shoulder Impingement

Occurs when the tendons or bursa in the shoulder become compressed or pinched during shoulder movements, resulting in pain and limited mobility. It can be caused by a variety of factors, including overuse, poor posture, or structural abnormalities in the shoulder joint.

It’s important to understand that the shoulder is a complex joint that involves many muscles, tendons, ligaments, and bones. If the riser and cam, or scapula and humerus, are not in the optimal position, then this may lead to bow failure or shoulder dysfunctions and pain. The aforementioned shoulder dysfunctions can occur separately, but oftentimes, they are interrelated and occur at the same time.

For example, shoulder instability can lead to scapular dyskinesis because the shoulder blade has to compensate for the unstable joint. Scapular dyskinesis can then cause rotator cuff disorders because it changes the mechanics of how the rotator cuff muscles work. Rotator cuff disorders can also lead to biceps tendinopathy because the biceps tendon works closely with the rotator cuff muscles and, in my opinion, should be considered part of the rotator cuff for all practical purposes. Bursitis can develop as a result of any of these conditions because any abnormal movement or positioning of the shoulder can compress or pinch the tendons or bursae in the shoulder joint.

This is a brief explanation of how complex the shoulder joint is and highlights the importance of addressing any shoulder pain as early as possible to prevent further dysfunction and pain while shooting a bow and arrow.

By addressing the underlying dysfunction, archers and bowhunters can prevent the development or progression of other shoulder dysfunctions and minimize the risk of further damage or injury.

Prevention and Management of Bow Arm Shoulder Pain

Archers and bowhunters can prevent and treat bow arm shoulder pain with archery-specific exercises. Archery-specific exercises should include both compound and accessory exercises that target the rotator cuff, scapula, and arm musculature to help stabilize the shoulder and meet the demands of shooting a bow.

Core strengthening, balance training, and mobility exercises are also vital in maximizing success and reducing risk of injury.

Self-filming while shooting a bow and arrow will help identify shooting flaws and provide feedback on what may be contributing to your bow arm shoulder pain.

Shooting a bow and arrow with poor archery form can compound shoulder problems and increase the risk of injury.

To manage existing bow arm shoulder pain, modify shooting frequency, reduce draw weight, ice, modify shooting form and technique, or take a 1-2 week break from shooting.

Step-by-Step Return to Shooting After a Shoulder Injury

1. Start with shorter distances: It’s important to start at a shorter distance, such as 10 yards, and gradually work your way up to longer distances. This will help you ease back into shooting and prevent re-injury.

2. Decrease the draw weight: Using a lighter draw weight can help reduce the strain on your shoulder as you work your way back up to shooting your normal draw weight. Increase the draw weight by no more than 5-10% in one week.

3. Focus on form: When returning to shooting, it’s important to focus on your form and technique. This can help you prevent future injuries and improve your accuracy. I am a strong believer in self-filming to identify poor shooting form.

4. Incorporate stretching and warm-up exercises: Incorporating stretching and warm-up exercises into your routine can help improve your flexibility and reduce the risk of injury.

5. Perform supplemental exercises: Progressive archery-specific exercises targeting the rotator cuff, scapula, and core musculature will help restore and build the strength necessary for performing archery and bowhunting at a high level.

6. Listen to your body: It’s important to listen to your body and take breaks as needed. If you experience pain or discomfort when shooting, it may be a sign that you need to take a break or reduce the volume of your shooting.

7. Seek professional guidance: If you’re unsure about how to safely return to shooting after a shoulder injury, it’s always a good idea to seek guidance from a healthcare professional or qualified archery coach. They can help you develop a safe and effective plan for returning to shooting.

Return to Archery Guide

Use this table as a guide to your recovery and return to shooting a bow and arrow. It’s important to note that these guidelines are just a starting point and may need to be adjusted based on individual recovery, physical ability, and experience with archery. Additionally, it’s important to always listen to your body and adjust accordingly. It may be a good idea to discuss your return to shooting with a healthcare professional.

What To Look For When Choosing A Crossbow Under $500

You might think that when looking for a budget crossbow under $500 that you have to sacrifice certain features or preferences. That isn’t the case, though. You can still be picky. Here are some specific things to look at.

Brand Name

RELATED: Best Crossbow

It’s not always necessary to get a brand name, but in the case of crossbows, certain brands do give you the confidence that they’ll be well crafted. When looking for a budget crossbow, specifically, several name brands help assure you that the low price doesn’t necessarily mean lower quality. These include:

• Barnett
• PSE Archery
• TenPoint (who also make Wicked Ridge models)
• Bowtech/Excalibur
• Bear Archery
• Centerpoint
• Killer Instinct

RELATED: Best Hunting Gear

Compound, Recurve or Reverse Draw

Among the three main types of crossbows, compound models are by far the most common. They provide power and speed without being too bulky. Plus, they minimize draw weight without sacrificing power.

As opposed to compound crossbows, recurve models are much simpler. As a result, they rarely break down, require minimal maintenance and are easier to use. This makes them good for beginners. Their main downside is size, specifically ATA width. They also usually have a bit less power, but this can also be good for beginners.

Reverse-draw crossbows are a newer type of crossbow with a more innovative design that involves, well, drawing the crossbow the opposite way. The advantage is that you get a longer power stroke, which means the bowstring accelerates the bolt for more time, giving you more speed and power with a narrower ATA. They also tend to shoot more quietly.

Unfortunately, reverse-draw models are a bit more complicated to use and are usually more expensive. They’re a better choice for experienced archers looking for something new.

Speed

Crossbow bolt speed, measured in feet per second, or FPS, usually ranges between 300 and 500 FPS and is one of the most important features to look at. While just about any crossbow is fast enough to hunt medium-sized game like deer, you may want a more powerful model for big game like elk, moose or bear.

RELATED: Best Place To Shoot A Deer With A Crossbow

Additionally, while faster bolt speeds give you more range and improve accuracy, they can be hard to handle for beginners, and the effective range of the crossbow does not really change that much. We usually recommend you stay under 400 FPS for your first crossbow, but over 400 is fine if you have some experience.

Draw Weight

Draw weight is less of an issue for crossbows compared to vertical bows because pretty much any crossbow is going to be impossible for someone to cock without some kind of device. However, a lower draw weight may be easier to cock just using a foot stirrup rather than a cocking rope or crank. This is important for archers who don’t have a lot of upper body strength.

Cocking Method

Unless you’re a record-holding powerlifter, you’ll almost certainly need some kind of cocking device to cock your crossbow. The simplest way is with a foot stirrup. By putting your foot through the stirrup, you get leverage that allows you to pull up the bowstring.

However, other methods can make things a lot easier. For example, a cocking rope better distributes the draw weight so it takes less effort to pull up the bowstring.

The easiest way, though, is with a crank. By rotating the crank, you slowly draw back the bowstring with little effort at all. Some crossbow models come with a crank that’s integrated into the frame, a great feature to look for.

A crank also works to decock a crossbow, which makes them that much more valuable.

Safety

Crossbows are dangerous weapons, so safety should always be a priority, doubly so if you’re shopping for a youth or beginner crossbow shooter. Standard safety features include trigger safeties and anti-dry-fire mechanisms that keep the crossbow from releasing the bowstring if there isn’t a bolt loaded. Dry firing can damage a crossbow and even cause it to splinter and injure the shooter.

More advanced safety features include finger wings, trigger guards and even rail sensors. These do their best to prevent your fingers from crossing the plane of the crossbow bowstring which moves so fast that it could potentially cut off your finger.

Accessories

It’s always nice when a crossbow comes with accessories so you don’t have to buy them separately. Essential accessories you should look for so you can start hunting right off the bat include:

• Crossbow bolts
• Scope
• Some kind of cocking method (stirrup, cocking rope or crank)

Of course, some crossbows also come with other accessories that can increase your chances of hunting success. These add a lot of value to the package and include:

• Quiver
• Carrying case
• Sling
• Limb dampeners
• String silencers
• Rail lube

We also want to mention crossbow broadheads. You need hunting broadheads to go hunting, but these are rarely included in hunting packages, even if they come with bolts. If the package does, that’s a great feature.

Warranty

With proper maintenance and care, your crossbow should last for years, but it’s always worth checking the warranty a given crossbow comes with. For one thing, a long warranty lets you buy with the reassurance that you can return or repair it if there is some kind of defect. More importantly, long warranties signal that the manufacturer is confident in their product and has crafted it with care.

Final Thoughts

Even if you’re on a budget, you can still get a crossbow with the features and accessories you need. Our best overall crossbow under $500 is the Wicked Ridge Rampage 360, but the staff here at DeerHuntingGuide.net really love the PSE Archery Fang HD as well.

Make sure you’ve considered all the reviews and how each crossbow might fit your personal hunting needs and situation.

Now it’s time to go buy your favorite crossbow on the list, take it out in your yard and get it sighted in, just in time for the hunting season!