The terms “buckshot” and “birdshot” are often used a lot when discussing the different types of shotgun ammo. Many new shooters are confused about the difference between them, and that’s OK because we were all a little confused the first time we stepped up to the ammo counter.

In this article, we will explain the differences between birdshot vs buckshot so that you know exactly which shotgun loads to get for your shooting needs.

The Difference Between Buckshot and Birdshot Explained

The difference between birdshot and buckshot is the size of projectiles (shot/pellets) loaded into the shotgun shell and their penetration ability. Buckshot shells have larger pellets in lower numbers while birdshot shells have smaller pellets in much higher quantities. Buckshot loads have high penetration while birdshot typically has lower penetration ability.

Understanding Birdshot

Of these two shotgun shells, birdshot is the smaller of the two. Birdshot loads fire smaller pellets, but this allows ammo manufacturers to jam a lot more of them into the shell. When you pull the trigger on your Remington 870 or any other shotgun, the shot from the shell leaves the barrel and begins to separate and move outward from each other.

As its name implies, birdshot is primarily designed for hunting birds like quail, grouse, pheasant, duck, goose, and even turkey. However, birdshot is capable of small game hunting and is quite capable against rabbits, squirrels, and even snakes.

Although primarily developed for bird and small game hunting, birdshot is also used for shotgun shooting competitions such as skeet, trap, and sporting clays.

As small game animals and birds like quail and pheasants do not require a lot of stopping power to fell, birdshot loads are designed to give the hunter the highest probability of a successful harvest. This is why smaller pellets are used, as they create a wider pattern, and increase the chance of a successful hit.

Pellet shot size works on an inverse scale, just like shotgun gauge, meaning that the larger the shot number, the smaller the pellet size. For example, #5 shot is larger than #8 shot. The most common birdshot sizes you’ll see at the ammo counter are 7, 7 ½, 8, and 9 which can be used for bird hunting and sporting clays.

Although some birdshot loads can carry well over 500 pellets, these lightweight projectiles don’t carry a lot of kinetic energy. Although perfect for felling birds or bursting clay pigeons, they are less effective on large game or in self-defense.

For that you’ll need something with a bit more oomph behind it…like buckshot.

Understanding Buckshot

Buckshot, like its name suggests, was designed for hunting medium to larger game. As a “buck” is a term for a male deer, buckshot was primarily designed for whitetail hunting.

Buckshot fires larger pellets but fewer of them. Furthermore, they are often loaded with more powder than birdshot, giving them higher recoil but increased penetration and range. Just like birdshot, when you pull the trigger on that Winchester SXP 12-gauge shotgun, the pellets exit the barrel and begin to separate. However, unlike birdshot, buckshot typically has a tighter pattern as you want all that stopping power put into a smaller area to harvest big game.

Just like with birdshot, buckshot gauge is measured in reverse. This means that No. 4 Buck will be smaller than No. 1 Buck.

The most common buckshot load is 00 Buck. Pronounced “double-aught buck”, 2.75” shotgun shells carry around 8 pellets while 3” magnum shells can hold around 12 pellets. 00 Buck pellets measure 0.33” in diameter, almost the same size as a 9mm Luger handgun bullet.

Buckshot is typically not used on birds or small game due to the amount of kinetic energy it carries. Using buckshot on a bird is considered, by many, unethical and typically renders the majority of the meat inedible.

Although buckshot might not be the best choice for bird hunting, it’s widespread use by law enforcement has led many homeowners rely on a home defense shotgun loaded with 00 buckshot shells for protection.

Pattern/Spread

The way a shotgun shell disperses its shot on a target is referred to as its pattern or spread. The type of pattern a shell has is typically tailored to its intended purpose.

However, there are other factors that will affect pattern as well. Certain shotgun barrels are designed to constrict near the muzzle, thereby tightening the pattern of the shot as it exits the barrel. This is known as a choke.

Some shotgun barrels have the ability to have chokes screwed into them from the muzzle while others have a choke integral to the barrel itself. It is not advisable to fire shotgun slugs from a barrel with a choke.

However, when it comes to buckshot vs birdshot, buckshot will generally have a tighter pattern while birdshot will have a wider pattern.

This trend directly reflects what each shotgun shell is designed to do.

As birdshot is meant to be fired a fast-moving targets like pheasants or clay pigeons, shooters want a wider spread of shot to increase their chances of a hit. On the other hand, buckshot loads are designed to deliver all its power into a smaller, more localized area to ethically harvest larger game or for self-defense.

Effective Range

Shotguns are typically considered close range firearms, and neither buckshot nor birdshot is intended for long range shooting.

As spheres are not very aerodynamic, buckshot and birdshot will quickly lose velocity and kinetic energy as they exit the barrel and begin to spread. Birdshot is especially susceptible to this, as the small pellets don’t have much kinetic energy to begin with and are more affected by air resistance than heavier buckshot loads. However, as buckshot is heavier, it will be affected more severely by gravitational forces.

Effective range is highly dependent upon the pattern a shotgun load has in your firearm. Although there are some brands of shotgun shells specifically designed for longer range shooting, the general effective range for both buckshot and birdshot is around 40 yards.

Stopping Power/Penetration

A 12-gauge shotgun is highly regarded by military, law enforcement, and civilian shooters for being an incredibly powerful firearm for close range defensive situations or hunting.

Although buckshot and birdshot both generally have the same effective range, buckshot will have deeper penetration as it is firing a larger shot size with heavier pellets.

As the amount of kinetic energy needed to effectively harvest a bird is considerably less than what is needed for deer or home defense, birdshot is generally loaded lighter. On the other hand, buckshot is loaded hotter as it requires more penetration and kinetic energy to take down a deer or a bad guy.

Without question, buckshot will have deeper penetration and stopping power in most situations.

Price/Availability

Birdshot is more often less expensive than buckshot.

Shotgun ammunition is very affordable to the point that only extremely high-volume competitive shooters even consider reloading shotgun hulls.

For 12 gauge shells, target loads suitable for sporting clays or small game hunting, like Winchester Super Target, can be had for around $0.60/round. While a 00 Buck defense rounds, like Hornady Critical Defense, will generally cost upwards of $1/round or more.

The difference in price is often attributed to the difference in materials cost between the two types of shotgun ammo. Buckshot pellets are typically made from solid lead, while birdshot is typically made from a steel-core with only a coating of lead. Furthermore, buckshot is loaded with more powder and requires high-brass shotgun hulls to accommodate the higher pressure the shell creates. On the other hand, birdshot uses low-brass shotgun shells as less powder is needed to achieve the desired muzzle velocities for the smaller shot size.

Hunting

The best shotgun ammo for hunting primarily depends on what game animals a hunter plans on harvesting.

Birdshot is the ideal choice for upland game, quail, pheasant, ducks, geese, and turkey, while buckshot is better for hogs, coyotes, and deer or other larger game animals.

The simple truth is that buckshot is not needed for small game animals, as these thin-skinned critters don’t require a lot of kinetic energy to humanely harvest. Furthermore, birdshot increases the probability of a clean kill as it fires considerably more pellets in a wider pattern than buckshot.

On the flip side, birdshot is not powerful enough to harvest large game animals and lacks the penetration needed to reach the vital organs. The wide pattern of birdshot means that large game hit with it will likely only be wounded and endure inhumane suffering. This is where buckshot is the better option, as its deeper penetration and tighter pattern have the power needed to humanely harvest large game.

Make sure to follow all of your local laws regarding hunting deer with buckshot, as some states and territories prohibit their use and only allow the use of shotgun slugs for deer.

Home Defense

The 12-gauge shotgun is highly respected as an incredibly effective home defense tool. Many homeowners rely on the stopping power that 12 gauge shells offer, however there is quite the debate raging over the effectiveness of birdshot for home defense.

The major point of contention centers around over-penetration. As buckshot is more powerful, there is the potential that a round could pass through drywall and injure one of your family members. There is some merit to this point, as birdshot loses a lot of its kinetic energy at range, it is less likely to punch through drywall. However, do not fool yourself into thinking that drywall is impenetrable to birdshot, as a close range shot will punch through sheet rock with little issue.

It is this author’s opinion that a homeowner should NOT use birdshot for home defense, and instead use buckshot for its overwhelming stopping power.

When in a home defense situation, a responsible citizen should bring enough power to bear to stop a bad guy in a single shot. The truth is, unless you are at close range (around 10 feet or less), birdshot lacks the penetration needed for self-defense.

To illustrate this one need only recall a hunting accident in 2006 when then Vice President Dick Cheney accidentally shot Texas attorney Harry Whittington in the neck and chest with birdshot. Whittington’s injuries were non-fatal and he made a full recovery. However, this would have been a different story had Cheney been using buckshot.

Buckshot provides the penetration needed to stop a threat quickly, which is the goal of any home defense situation. Although there is the potential for over-penetration when using buckshot, the advantages buckshot provides far outweigh this. Following the cardinal rules of gun safety and knowing what lies behind your target is the key to protecting you and your family members in any home defense scenario.

Many shotgun ammo manufacturers like Remington, Hornady, and Winchester currently offer buckshot defense loads specifically tailored for home defense. These loads maximize the penetration capability of buckshot while minimizing the potential for over-penetration making them ideal for protecting your loved ones from harm.

Conclusion: Birdshot vs Buckshot

Buckshot and birdshot are two different types of shotgun ammo that have drastically different intended uses.

Birdshot fires a lot of smaller projectiles in a wide pattern that is ideal for hunting upland game, waterfowl, and for use in sporting clays competitions. Capable of firing hundreds of small pellets at a time, birdshot gives shooters a higher probability of scoring a hit on their target but lacks the penetration needed for self-defense.

Buckshot fires larger pellets in smaller quantities and tighter patterns to maximize penetration and stopping power. It is ideal for hunting medium to large game as well as for protecting the lives of yourself and your family members in a home defense situation. Although more powerful, buckshot does have the potential to over-penetrate, so care needs to be exercised when firing buckshot loads in self-defense.

Selecting the best shotgun ammo for you depends primarily on your needs as a shooter, just make sure that you get all of your shotgun ammo here at Ammo.com and be ready for any situation!

If you’re hanging a deer in warm weather, you’ll want to do it as soon as possible. The ideal temperature for hanging a deer is between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature is any warmer than that, you risk the meat spoiling. The length of time you’ll need to hang the deer will depend on how warm it is. You’ll generally want to hang the deer for at least 24 hours, but in very warm weather, you may need to hang it for 48 hours or more.

If you’re processing your deer in warm weather, you’ll need extra care to prevent the meat from spoiling. Here are some guidelines for how long to hang your deer in warm weather:

If the temperature is above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, you should only hang the deer for one to two days. You can hang the deer for three to four days if the temperature is between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

And if the temperature is below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, you can hang the deer for up to seven days. Remember, it’s always better to err on the side of caution when hanging your deer. If you’re not sure how long to hang it, it’s better to hang it for a shorter period of time rather than risk the meat spoiling.

Ask a Deer Processor: How long should you hang your deer?

How long can a deer hang in 60-degree weather

Assuming you are referring to the temperature of the air and not the ground, deer can hang in 60-degree weather for an indefinite amount of time.

The reason being, is that as long as the internal organs remain cool, the deer will not begin to rot. The rigor mortis, in which the muscles stiffen after death, will also be delayed in cooler temperatures. So, if you are hoping to age your deer meat, 60 degrees is the ideal temperature.

Can you let a deer hang in warm weather?

It’s not recommended to let a deer hang in warm weather. The warmer the temperature, the quicker the deer will spoil. If temperatures are above freezing, the deer should be refrigerated or frozen as soon as possible. If it’s not possible to do either of those things, then you can let the deer hang for a day or two, but any longer than that is not recommended.

How long will a deer last in 50 degree weather?

If you’re asking how long a deer will survive in 50 degree weather, the answer is that it depends on the deer. In general, deer can withstand temperatures as low as -20 degrees Fahrenheit, but they will start to feel uncomfortable when the temperature goes above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If the weather is particularly hot or humid, the deer will start to suffer from heat stress, which can lead to death.

How long can you let a deer hang?

When it comes to deer, there are a few different schools of thought on how long is too long to let a deer hang. Some people believe that as long as the deer is properly taken care of, there is no set time limit. Others believe that waiting too long to process a deer can result in the meat becoming tough and unpalatable. So, how long can you let a deer hang? Ideally, deer should be processed as soon as possible after being harvested. This means that the deer should be gutted, skinned, and deboned as soon as possible after being killed. If you are unable to process the deer right away, it is important to take steps to ensure that the meat stays cool and does not spoil. If you are unable to process the deer immediately, it is best to hang the deer in a cool, shaded area. The temperature should be below 40 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent the growth of bacteria. If the temperature is above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, the deer should be processed as soon as possible. It is also important to keep the deer away from predators, insects, and other animals. If the deer is hanging in an area where there are other animals present, it is important to check on the deer regularly to make sure that the meat has not been contaminated. In general, it is best to process a deer within 24 hours of harvesting it.

Is it OK to hang a deer in 60 degree weather?

The quick answer is yes, it is perfectly fine to hang a deer in 60 degree weather. In fact, this is actually an ideal temperature for hanging and aging venison. If the temperature is too cold, the meat can freeze and if it is too warm, the meat can start to spoil. When hanging a deer, the animal should be gutted as soon as possible after being killed. The intestines can release bacteria into the meat which can cause it to spoil. The deer should then be hung by the hind legs from a beam or other sturdy structure. If the temperature is too cold, the meat can freeze and if it is too warm, the meat can start to spoil. The ideal temperature for hanging and aging venison is between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. However, 60 degrees is still within the acceptable range. If the temperature is consistently above 60 degrees, you may want to consider placing the deer in a cooler or refrigerator to prevent the meat from spoiling.

Conclusion

If you’re planning on hanging a deer in warm weather, you’ll want to take some extra precautions to make sure that the meat doesn’t spoil. First, you’ll want to choose a cool, shady spot to hang the deer. If possible, hang the deer in a breezy spot so that the air can circulate around the meat and help keep it cool. Secondly, you’ll want to make sure that the deer is completely gutted before you hang it. If the intestines are left in, they can quickly start to rot and contaminate the meat. Finally, you’ll want to check the temperature of the meat regularly. If it starts to get too warm, you can either move the deer to a cooler spot or take it down and refrigerate it.

It’s exciting to buy your very first air rifle. However, once you go out there and start hitting targets that are further away from where you are, you’d realize that it’s not enough – you need to get the best air rifle scope!

Unfortunately, choosing the best one isn’t easy. With so many options, you can easily feel overwhelmed and confused. In the end, you may even pick the wrong scope and that’s just a waste of money.

To help make the process easier, here are seven things to look for when choosing a rifle scope:

1. The Right Type of Scope

For you to find the perfect air scope rifle, you need to focus on picking the right one not just for your gun but for your needs too. In general, there are two main types you can choose from: variable and fix.

A fixed air rifle scope is set to just one magnification. Because of that, you can’t make any adjustments.

Most scopes under this type have low magnification. Usually, they’re at 4×32.

Although fixed air rifle scopes don’t have great magnification levels, they have a large field of view. This makes them highly recommended for close-range shooting.

A variable air rifle scope, on the other hand, lets you adjust the magnification range. This allows you to get a larger field of view when you’re target shooting and zoom far enough to hit targets in the distance. 

2. Magnification

When you’re considering magnification, you have to understand how much your target can be magnified when you compare it with how it looks without your scope. 

Consider this:

If your scope has 3x magnification, it means that it’ll let you see targets as though they are four times closer.

If you are using your rifle to hunt a target that’s about 100 yards away from you, the scope can make it appear as if it’s only 25 yards away.

3. Reticle

This feature allows you to aim at your targets with your scope. It’s also a big help when it comes to estimating the wind.

Some scopes have the standard crosshair which offers one of the best accuracies. They are highly recommended for target shooters. Other scopes have the mil-dot which is good if you’re hunting in dark environments.

4. Lenses

When it comes to picking lenses, there are two things you need to think about. 

• The diameter of the objective lens affects the amount of light that’s allowed in.
• The bigger the lens in diameter, the heavier the overall weight of the scope gets.

Another thing you have to consider when picking scopes is the coating of the lens. Since glass has this ability to reflect light, you’d want coated lenses.

Also, make sure that it’s a high-quality coating so you can enjoy less glare and better light transmission.

5. Construction

Obviously, when looking for the best air rifle scope, you’d want something that can keep up with you.

Scopes vary in the diameter of their main tubes. You can get one from 25mm to 34 mm, depending on the brand you’re considering.

When you buy a scope with a bigger tube, you’ll have more space for its interior compartments. And because of that, you’ll get a better adjustment range as well. This is a big factor you need to consider when you’re doing long-distance targeting.

6. Eye-relief

The last thing you want to happen is to get yourself injured while firing your gun. While hunting and target shooting are exciting activities, getting a bruised eye isn’t.

To avoid that, consider investing in an air scope with higher-eye relief. The standard is around four inches while scopes of lesser quality can give you around 3 to 3.5 inches.

7. Turrets and Adjustments

When you’re hunting, you want everything to be all set. The last thing you’d want is to have turrets that fail halfway through your activity.

Turrets’ primary function is adjusting windage and elevation. The first one refers to the horizontal adjustment while the latter refers to the vertical adjustment of your scope.

Usually, these knobs are located on the right and top parts of your scope. You’ll find non-tactical models advertising turrets at 1/4” or 1/8”.

In Conclusion

The factors mentioned above can help make the process of picking the best air rifle scope easier and less stressful for you. However, ultimately, the best one will still depend on what you are planning on using your scope for.

If you’re shooting just within 100 yards, you can go with a scope with a magnification of 1x to 4x. If you’re aiming for something at more than 200 yards, it’s a good idea to go for a scope with 9x magnification.

For the other factors, consider picking based on what you need and what fits your air rifle. 

What Is A Shotgun Choke?

A choke is simply a tapered constriction of the gun barrel’s bore at the muzzle end. The exit end of the choke is smaller by some dimension than the actual bore of the barrel. This difference is the amount of constriction. For example if the bore of the barrel is .730 and the exit dia of the choke is .710 you have a constriction of .020. The amount of constriction for a given degree of choke will also vary between manufacturers. As a general rule for standard chokes the total range will be between .000 and .045 thousandths of an inch under bore diameter. In the case of special purpose turkey chokes it can be as much as .100 or 1/10th of an inch. The length of the choke can vary as well. Most, but not all chokes will have an overall length of between 1.5 and 4 inches. Note that many fixed choke barrels marked skeet will actually be .000 or cylinder.

They can be grouped in 3 general types:

1- Fixed chokes- They are made as an integral part of the barrel and cannot be readily changed except by a gunsmith and any alteration is considered permanent.

2- Interchangeable chokes- These can be of the “screw on” style which is externally attached or the “screw in” which is recessed into the barrel. To change the degree of constriction you simply remove and replace with a choke of a different diameter.

3- Adjustable chokes- This style of choke is adjustable throughout the entire range by turning a sleeve, which collapses or allows a collet to expand thus changing the exit diameter. A popular choke of this type is the Polychoke.

The internal design of chokes can also be broken down into three main groups:

1- Conical Parallel- This style has a cone that blends into a parallel section which helps to stabilize the shot charge as it leaves the choke.

2- Straight Conical- This has a cone only. Where the cone stops is the point where the shot exits the choke.

3- Wad Retarding-They do not have the constriction in the same manner as either of the above designs but instead use bumps or projections to alter the shot pattern.

The most common design in use is the conical parallel. All Trulock Chokes are of this design.

Shotgun Bore Diameter and Pattern Performance

I am often asked the above question by people who are interested in purchasing a new shotgun. They reason that if a specific bore size inherently gives better, that is more even patterns, then it makes sense to purchase a shotgun with that bore diameter.

Shotguns that were made in the U.S.A. were for many years, all of the same nominal bore diameter (.730 plus or minus the tolerance of the individual manufacturer) as the U.S. standard for 12 ga was .7299. With the rise in popularity of foreign shotguns such as Beretta we were introduced to smaller bores running in the nominal .721/.725 diameter. Stan Baker to the best of my knowledge was the first to do extensive experiments with backbored barrels (the process of enlarging an existing bore diameter) taking the 12 ga bore up to a nominal 10 ga diameter of .775. Some time back Browning added a new choke design to their line which they named Invector Plus to differentiate it from their original design called Invector. The new chokes and the barrels were based on a nominal .740 bore diameter. I believe that Browning was the first company to offer a factory barrel with a bore diameter that was significantly larger than standard. Currently most of the major shotgun manufacturers offer at least some models with bores larger than their “standard” bores. Some have gone totally to a new larger bore. The results of this are that today’s shooter has a very wide range of bore diameters to choose from.

Pulling from my memory I can recall the following nominal 12 ga. bore sizes. These may not be exact numbers as each manufacturer has plus and minus tolerances. Some of the below numbers have been rounded when converting from metric measurements and some for my convenience.

.725

.730

.733

.735

.740

.745

.774

Now that you have all of the background information, you can get my answer.

I have always been able to obtain the pattern that I was looking for within reason (no 100% patterns at 80 yards) with all of the above bores by patterning with different chokes and or shells. I have had shotguns on occasion that took quite a bit of work to obtain the pattern I wanted but this has never been limited to a certain bore size as they were always a random mix.

Shotgun Patterns

Patterns are normally expressed as a percentage such as 50%, 60%, 70% ect. This is the commonly accepted method comparing pattern density. In a 50% pattern ½ of all the pellets contained in the shell will strike inside of a circle of 30 inches in diameter. To find the percentage of any given load divide the number of hits inside the circle by the total number of pellets contained in the shell. You can obtain the approximate number of pellets any given load will have from a shotgun shell reloading book or you can open a couple of shells and actually count the pellets. Normally all pattern testing is done at a distance of 40 yards with the exception of cylinder and skeet 1 chokes in all gauges and all chokes for the .410 bore which are normally measured at 25 yards. Industry pattern percentages for chokes were developed using the preceding distances. If you want to compare any given choke to the industry figures you should do your pattern testing at the same distance.

The purpose for this is to allow you to select a choke that will throw a pattern that is as large as possible without having the pellets so far apart that the target can move through the shot string without receiving multiple hits. For shooting both game and clay targets you want a pattern that is perfectly even in pellet distribution over the 30-inch circle. Having said that, and after looking at thousands of patterns over a span of 25 years I could count on my fingers the number that I would call “even” and if these were measured close enough they would not have qualified. In this instance “very close” is excellent. Two exceptions to the preceding would be buckshot and turkey patterns. With both of these you are looking for a tight center cluster of pellets.

One thing to remember –The only thing that is consistent about shotguns is that very few things are consistent. Identical guns with the same degree of choke and using the same shell may not pattern the same. The same load between various brands of shells can pattern differently. Patterns will change when changing from hard to soft shot. Patterns can change when anything in the shell changes such as different wads, powders or primers. What I am trying to get across is that when you change anything such as brands, shot size, or components you will need to check the pattern as it could have changed, sometimes by an extreme amount.

Once you find a choke/shell combination that gives you the pattern you want it should remain reasonably consistent as long as nothing is changed. I am satisfied as long as the percentage stays within a 5% plus or minus deviation.

The below chart shows the relationship between the degree of choke, the percentage and constriction based on lead shot. Keep in mind that the percentages are a guide only. What you actually want is a pattern that is dense enough to insure multiple hits on your target at the distance you normally shoot.

Lead Shot Choke Chart

Constriction Percent Cylinder .000 40 at 40 yds- 70 at 25 yds Skeet 1 .005 45 at 40 yds- 75 at 25 yds Imp Cyl .010 50 at 40 yds Skeet 2 (lite mod) .015 55 at 40 yds Modified .020 60 at 40 yds Imp Mod .025 65 at 40 yds Full .030 70 at 40 yds Extra Full .040 73 at 40 yds Turkey .045 Plus 75 PLUS at 40 yds

Keep in mind that this chart should be used as a starting point only. Select the choke and pattern it. Change chokes or loads as needed to get the pattern you want. If you do not pattern your gun please feel free to accept this chart as being infallible.

What Choke Should I Use

The most frequently asked question we get is “What choke do you suggest”?

Use a choke that will give you 70 or so percent patterns at the distance you plan to shoot.

If you look back at the “lead shot choke chart” it is obvious that open chokes at long distances will have a much more open pattern than tighter chokes. I will not argue the point that you can certainly break/kill targets at 40 yards with a skeet choke but the odds are certainly not in your favor. Try your best to estimate the distance that you would normally encounter for a specific shooting condition and select a choke that gives you an evenly spaced 70% pattern with your choice of shell. Rarely, will your estimate be “on the money” so test pattern this combination at distances both closer and farther from your established base line. If the shooting distances change then change your choke to match them.

When I first started dove shooting many years ago, I noticed there were always one or two men at every shoot that almost never missed a bird. After long observation I realized that the one thing that each had in common was that they picked their shots instead of blasting at every bird in the field. They were simply shooting those birds that were within range of whatever gun/choke/shell combination they were using. In my opinion shooting range equals 70% pattern density.

While there are other variables, for all practical purposes chokes will have the biggest effect on pattern density. I look at density from two different ways. The first is the pattern percentage. This is simply a figure telling you how many pellets out of the total number of pellets that were fired at the target hit inside a thirty-inch circle. Example: 250 pellets were in the shell and 200 landed inside the circle. Divide 200 by 250 = 80%. Percentage is percentage and it does not matter what size of shot is used.

The second way is pellet spacing. Common sense tells us that a 1-¼ oz. load of #8 shot will have many more pellets than a 1-¼ oz. load of #4 shot. If both loads pattern at 70% you will have more # 8 shot in the target than you would have with 4’s. The pellets must be close enough that the target cannot slip through. While I generally think that the 70% rule is sufficient, some of the larger pellets may not give enough density. Pattern and make sure.

How To Pattern

I like to use paper that measures 4 feet square. Paper this size may be hard to find locally. If it is not available try taping several sheets of butcher paper or newsprint together. Bruce Buck the “technoid” of “Shotgun Report” suggested using red resin flooring paper. This is available at any home supply store and shows the pellet holes perfectly when viewed from the back. He noted it is available only in 36-inch wide rolls but it cuts and tapes easily. If you use small paper and your gun does not shoot to the point of aim, part of your pattern could be off of the target. You would probably confuse this with a bad pattern. Mark the target center for use as an aiming point. I strongly suggest that you use a padded shooting bench when patterning. At this point you are not checking the gun for fit and a bench rest helps to remove some of the variables. Note that if your head/eye is not located in the same place on the stock between bench rest and offhand shooting your point of impact will be different. From the correct distance, shoot at the center of the target. I would do this a minimum of 5 times on different targets with each shell or choke that is being tested. You will need to draw a 30-inch circle around the most dense portion of the pattern on each target. If you intend to do much of this get a 30-inch diameter piece of thin Lexan [Plexiglas]. You can easily move this around on the paper to find where to draw the circle. Count the pellets inside of the circle. Divide this number by the total number of shot contained in the shell and you will have your percentage. Take the percentage from each target, add them and divide by the total number of shots fired for each shell or choke. This will give you the overall average for that test. Sounds like a royal pain doesn’t it? It is, but there are no short cuts if you really want to know what your shotgun is doing.

After you have finished look carefully at each pattern for holes that are big enough to let your intended target slip through. You want a dense enough pattern to ensure multiple hits.

Point of Impact

We are asked on occasion about chokes that do not center the pattern exactly on the aiming point. Most shooters want a shotgun that centers the pattern exactly with the point of aim. Most shotguns are manufactured in theory to do this. The problem arises between theory and fact. It is not unusual to find shotguns that shoot high or low and to the right or left or a combination of these. Shotguns that pattern ½ above and ½ below the point of aim have what is commonly known as a 50/50 pattern. One that shoots ¾ of the pattern over and ¼ under the point of aim has a 75/25 pattern and so on. Certain guns are designed to give patterns other than 50/50. WE WILL ASSUME that you know if your gun was designed to give a pattern other than 50/50.

Some of the common reasons for off center patterns are listed below.

1-Defective choke tube

2-Bent barrel

3-Choke/barrel alignment

4-Loose barrel

5-Poor gun fit

6-FLINCH

This could also result from a combination of any of the above.

To check your gun for point of aim we suggest the following

1- Shoot from a padded rest.

2- Make sure to get perfect bead alignment if your gun has a center bead, if it doesn’t get the rib perfectly flat, with the bead visible.

3- Use the same load as you will use in the field or on the range.

4- Squeeze the trigger. This is easier said than done as most shotgun trigger assemblies give anything but a good pull.

5- Use targets with a center aiming point.

Shoot several targets, change chokes and repeat.

I would suggest you do this with several different chokes. If you are using aftermarket chokes also test some of the factory tubes that came with the gun.

1- If all of the chokes shoot to the same spot or at least very close to the same, your problem is not with the chokes.

2- If your point of impact changes with each choke you test your problem is not the chokes.

3- If one choke shoots to a different point of aim and the others do not. I would say that choke is defective and a call to the manufacturer would be in order.

One other thing you should be aware of is the “point of convergence” [POC]. This problem will be found only on side-by-side or over/under shotguns. Both barrels should shoot to the same spot. Again what works in theory seldom works in practice. Generally with O/Us the top barrel will shoot high. When testing for proper POC you will find it somewhat easier if you use tight chokes. If the POC is close, be happy, many are not. If you cannot live with the error I suggest you talk to the manufacturer.

Steel Shot/Waterfowl Chokes

Much has changed over the years with steel loadings. The quality and consistency of the shells has been greatly improved. However, the fact that steel shot exerts much more stress on choke tubes has not changed. The problem is that steel shot is much harder than lead. It will transmit much more energy to the choke when it strikes the conical portion and if the tube is not of sufficient strength it will cause it to deform. This is known as “choke creep”

Over a period of time choke creep can lock a choke in the barrel so that it is next to impossible to remove. Most Trulock Chokes are rated for use with steel shot from cylinder bore through improved modified with the exception of the Tru-Choke S.D. which are not recommended for any shot other than lead. In addition our Super Waterfowl Choke was designed especially for steel and all other environmentally friendly shot.

It is strongly suggested that you use our Extended Precision Hunter style choke for steel shot as they normally give a superior pattern over the flush style chokes.

Close Range -approximately out to 30 yards – Skt 1= pattern percentage of about 55% Medium range- approximately out to 35 yards-Skt 2 [light mod] =pattern percentage of 65%

Medium range- approximately out to 35 yards-Skt 2 [light mod] =pattern percentage of 65%

Long Range-35yards and further- Improved Modified =pattern percentage of 75%

Extreme Range= Super Waterfowl series=pattern percentage of 80% plus

The above suggestions normally work well with number (4, 3, 2 ect.) size steel shot. If you are using letter size (BB, BBB ect.) steel you may find your best results using cylinder (close range) improved cylinder (mid range) and modified for long range.

If you are switching from standard velocity steel to fast steel and you notice a decrease in pattern performance try backing off of choke constriction by .005 from whatever size you presently use.

These suggestions should be used as a starting point and should not be taken as a substitute for patterning your shotgun.

The recommendations below are for Trulock Chokes only.

Tungsten Iron- Use the same choke constrictions as you would for steel shot.

Tungsten Shot such as Hevi-Shot, Hevi 13, Winchester Extended Range and Federal Heavyweight.

For waterfowl and upland bird hunting we suggest you use two sizes smaller shot than you would with steel. We find that these alloys can be used in chokes with much more constriction than you can use with steel shot and they retain velocity much better. This, in my opinion makes them the ultimate choice for long range shooting. For normal patterns using # 6 thru # 2 size shot we like a skt 1 for close range, a skt 2 (light mod) for mid range and improved modified for long range. For shots on the long side of 40 yds try the extra full constriction or one of our Super Waterfowl chokes.

This type of shot can be used in our turkey chokes and normally deliver excellent patterns.

Bismuth – Use the same chokes you would use with lead shot.

All current production Trulock Chokes are marked on the body if rated for steel or tungsten or both.

Turkey Chokes

We make a wide assortment of chokes that fall under this heading. No one choke works well in all guns with all loads but one thing has to be consistent, the shot shell. You will have to shoot premium factory loads or assemble your hand loads with the best components available in order to get good dense patterns at long range. While this basically holds true for all shotgunning it is especially so when hunting turkeys. You have a very small kill zone even when the bird is at close range and it is imperative that you know exactly what your shotgun and shell is capable of doing. In testing different shells we have found several that work very well.

1- Hevi Shot

2- Federal Premium Mag Shok Heavyweight

3- Winchester Supreme Elite Xtended Range Hi-Density- No longer loaded but some existing stock may be on dealer’s shelves.

4-Winchester Long Beard™ XR™ Scroll down for more information

As a rule we found that the shells with “heavier than lead” pellets shot tighter patterns than those using lead but this may not be the case with your gun.

To get a dense pattern with a tight center you will need the Precision Hunter style choke. Our three most popular chokes have exit diameters of .670, .665 and .660. Although some shotguns like a .680 generally one of the above ends up working better. We also make a.650 and .640 but these are better suited to card shooting and not live bird hunting as they like smaller # 8 shot better. The smallest exit diameter does not always give the tightest pattern. We find that the smaller the exit diameter the more erratic the patterns. Normally one particular load will pattern considerably better than the rest. Let me repeat that you will be wasting your time to shoot a cheaply made or promotional type shell. We have patterned the above listed shells with our chokes and make the following suggestions.

Suggested turkey chokes and shot size

.690 first choice for .774 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.670 first choice for .740 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.665 first choice for .730 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.660 first choice for .725 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

We have NOT had a chance to test Remington’s replacement for Hevi Shot but will do so and post the results.

Please note that a choke of a given exit diameter is usually going to give a different pattern when used in guns of different bore diameters.

Take a Beretta at .723 a Remington at .727 a Browning I.P. at .740 and using a .660 in all three guns normally gives three different patterns. Just because a .660 worked very well in your Remington does assume it will work great in your Browning.

Special Turkey Chokes for Specific Shells

Trulock Fed # 7 turkey chokes

After testing the Federal Heavyweight turkey # 7 we were so impressed we designed a series of turkey chokes especially for this shell. It gave very good results as per the below pattern. The folks at federal tell me that the # 7 tungsten pellet has the same killing power at 40 yards as a # 5 lead pellet.

Federal #7 turkey load fired through Trulock Fed #7 choke at 40 yards.

Winchester Long Beard™ XR™ turkey chokes

These shells use lead shot that are encased in a special solid buffer that fractures upon firing. I don’t have a clue what the buffer is but I can tell you that patterns fired using this type of shell are amazing.

We developed a line of turkey chokes for this shell that is shot size specific. We make chokes specific to the #4, #5 and #6 shot sizes.

Combine the Longbeard XR™ turkey load with Trulock’s new LongBeard XR choke tubes to maximize the shell’s performance. With this remarkable combo, you can expect 10% greater penetration over standard lead loads beyond 50 yards and twice the number of pellets in a 10″ circle out to 60 yds.

#5 Shot #6 Shot

Chokes for Buckshot

As with Turkey chokes you will be trying to get a very dense, tight pattern but since you have such a small number of pellets you cannot afford to have as many fliers. However, the rule about using premium shells does not change. Hard, plated pellets with a buffer will normally shoot tighter patterns with fewer fliers than those loads made with soft lead and no buffer. I would suggest the Precision Hunter style choke [extended] with a constriction of .030. This would be our full choke. Some gun/load combinations will work better with a constriction of .040 (extra full). One of these two constrictions will normally give you a very dense pattern.

The only sure way to know for sure which choke your gun likes the best is to test pattern and see.

Do not use turkey chokes for “00” buckshot. They have too much constriction and will decrease not increase the density of the pattern.

The constrictions suggested were based on the use of 00 size pellets.

We have patterned Hevi Shot’s 9-pellet buckshot load.

We consistently got 6 of the 9 pellets in a 10-inch diameter circle at 40 yards using an extended full and ex full choke.

00 and 000 Buckshot Choke Tubes For Big Game

Deerstroyer™ Choke Tubes

At the 2015 SHOT Show we introduced our Deerstroyer™ style of choke tubes especially for 00 and 000 buckshot sizes. All of these are made in a 4 inch overall length. For 2016 we have redesigned this choke internally for improved pattern performance. All of the Deerstroyer™ chokes have a nominal .030 constriction based on average bore size for each specific model.

Boar Blaster™ Choke Tubes

The Boar Blaster™ style of choke has a totally new internal design consisting of 5 steps with 6 parallel sections. This design has been tested with numerous loads of 9 and 15 pellet 00 and various 000 shells and has shown an increase in pattern density over conventional conical parallel choke designs with every load we have tested. Made from high strength stainless steel with a black oxide finish and knurled head.

Predator/Varmint Chokes

Our suggestions on chokes are as follows.

Mossberg 835’s and similar .774 bore shotguns .710 exit diameter

Browning Invector Plus and similar .740 bore shotguns .680 exit diameter

Remington and similar .730 bore shotguns .670 exit diameter

Beretta Optima Plus and similar.733 bore shotguns .683 exit diameter

Benelli Crio Plus, Mobil style and similar .725 bore shotguns .665 exit diameter

We suggest the below loads

Hevi-Shot Dead Coyote (T Pellets)

Win Xtended Range HD Coyote (B Pellets)

Number 4 buckshot

In any given shotgun you may find one load patterns tighter than another. You will have to pattern your gun to find the best load.

Predator™ Choke Tubes

At the 2015 SHOT Show we introduced our Predator™ style of choke tubes especially for # 4 buckshot and the large pellet predator tungsten loads. All of these are made in a 4 inch overall length with a longer (3 inch) than normal conical section for less pellet deformation. All of these chokes have a nominal .050 to .060 constriction based on average bore size for each specific model.

Choke Cleaning

Ideally chokes should be cleaned each time the gun is used. Plastic fouling and powder residue will build up in screw in chokes much faster than in fixed choke guns. Powder fouling will also work between the choke and the choke counter bore in the barrel. Remove the choke and clean with a toothbrush using some sort of solvent. We use and suggest Choke Shine as a cleaner. Simply, drop the choke into the solution for a short time and it will come out with the fouling dissolved. Clean the inside of the barrel with a cleaner/lubricant such as Clenzoil making sure the threads do not have any residue, lightly wipe the choke with oil and reassemble.

Remember that rust can occur in the barrel and freeze a choke in place even if the choke is made from stainless steel. Waterfowl hunters should pay particular attention to keeping the choke and barrel clean.

Choke Tightness

Although this seems like a no brainer we believe that there is a proper way to install a choke tube. When changing a choke in the field or at the range, wipe the choke with a clean rag to keep any abrasive from being ground into the threaded area of the choke/barrel. Finger tighten and then use a wrench that properly fits the tube to finish tightening using a moderate amount of pressure. This will help keep the choke from loosening up when in use. When a choke is not properly seated the possibility of the shot charge striking the edge of the choke greatly increases. If this happens a bulged barrel and a ruined choke are almost guaranteed. Most chokes will loosen and back out to some degree if they are left finger tight. A perfectly clean, dry choke installed in a clean, dry barrel and moderately tightened with a wrench should not work loose. Having said that, most shooters are better off to make sure that there is a light coating of oil on the choke before installing as this will help prevent rust in the barrel. All chokes should be checked on a regular basis for tightness.

Prior to doing anything with a choke, be sure the gun is unloaded and the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.

Frozen Chokes

We have pulled frozen chokes in our shop of almost every brand. Normally by the time we get the barrel one or more people have attempted to remove the choke. Did you ever wonder where the saying “Fixed Guns Repaired” came from? This is a problem that can be prevented 99% of the time by simply cleaning the choke/barrel on a regular basis. The number one problem is RUST in the threaded area of the choke/barrel. If you keep this from forming, you generally will not experience any problems. The second problem is choke creep [expansion]. This fortunately is much less of a problem than rust. This is caused normally by using large steel shot in tight chokes [full or tighter]. Follow the manufacturer’s suggestions when using steel shot and the odds are very much in your favor that you will have no problems. If choke creep happens you will notice the choke becoming harder to remove and install and if you continue shooting it will eventually lock itself in the barrel.

If you find yourself with a frozen choke my first suggestion is to take it to a competent gunsmith. Make sure the smith has some experience in this line of work.

The information below is not intended to be all inclusive instructions. If you are not responsible for your own actions do not attempt to use any of the suggestions.

Unload the gun, remove the barrel from the action and soak the muzzle in a can of penetrating oil for several days. Make sure the container has a sufficient amount of oil to completely cover the barrel as deep as the choke is recessed. Use a proper fitting choke wrench and try to work the choke back and forth in small increments. If this does not work try letting it soak several more days. Heat applied to the choke area can be of help. Never get the barrel so hot that you cannot touch it with your hand for several seconds. Do not use a hammer of any kind to try and “tap” it. Soaking and low heat will get most frozen chokes out. Take your time, we have seen a number of barrels ruined because of impatience.

Choke Storage

We suggest that you keep your chokes in a padded case especially designed for them. There are a number of quality cases on the market for under $10.99. The purpose is to keep them from hitting each other or any hard object that could cause burrs or deformation. Chokes are particularly susceptible to denting in the skirt area. We have seen this occur on numerous occasions when chokes stored in plain boxes were dropped. We also urge you to clean all of the chokes that have used when you clean your gun. Alloy steel chokes need a light coat of oil prior to storage and stainless steel keeps its rust resistant properties best when it is free from all contamination.

British Shotgun Choke Tube Constrictions

Choke constrictions in Britain are normally marked using a different method that what we are accustomed to seeing here in the United States. In some cases the same name is used in both countries with an entirely different meaning as to the amount of constriction in the choke.

The below chart gives a comparison between the choke name and the amount of constriction.

Constriction Constriction British US Trulock MM Inches Marking Marking Marking .00 .000 Cylinder Cylinder Cylinder .13 .005 Imp Cyl Skeet Skeet 1 .25 .010 1/4 Imp Cyl Imp Cyl .50 .020 1/2 Modified Modified .75 .030 3/4 Lite Full Full 1.00 .035 Full Full

We have tried to give you a very basic course on chokes and their use. If we can be of any service to you please call us. We will be glad to help with any questions or problems you may have. This will be a constantly evolving paper. If you would like to see any subject discussed concerning chokes or related please let us know.

Learn how to find and identify the best wood for Bow Drill to start a fire using a Bow Drill Kit. The top trees and plants in North America for bow drill friction fire kits.

Choosing the best wood for your Bow Drill Kit is critical to success. Even if everything else is PERFECT, choosing the wrong wood will likely result in failure. This article will highlight the best trees and woody stalked plants in North America to use for carving your Bow Drill Kit. Before we get into the specific species, let first discuss some basic wood properties.

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Best Wood for Bow Drill: Wood Properties & Selection

Dry

If the wood you choose is not bone dry then you will not succeed in making fire with your bow drill kit. An ember can only be born in the near absence of moisture. For this reason, live green wood should never be used for the spindle or the hearth board. (Live green wood is actually preferred for the bearing block, which we will discuss later.)

EXPERT FIELD TIP

It can sometimes be difficult to determine by touch if a piece of wood is dry. I’ve found that the lips, cheeks and chin are more reliable than my fingertips in determining if a piece of wood contains moisture.

If at all possible, wood for the spindle should not be gathered from the ground. With few environmental exceptions (such as extremely arid locales) wood found on the ground will be less desirable because it will have absorbed moisture. Dead standing wood and low-hanging branches are almost always drier because they are exposed to sun and wind.

Wood Types

Although I have successfully used many different types of wood for spindles, certain varieties work best. While I want you to be familiar with specific trees and plants that make excellent spindles, it’s important that you first understand their key properties.

Soft and lightweight woods are preferred over hard and dense varieties. A popular rule of thumb [LM1] is that you should be able to use your fingernail to make an indentation in the wood with little effort. While soft is preferred, the wood should not be ”punky” or rotted. It should be firm.

EXPERT FIELD TIP

I prefer to use the same exact type of wood for both the spindle and the hearth board. I’ve had the most success with this arrangement. Exceptions can be made, of course, but I prefer to cut both components from not only the same type of wood but the same piece of wood as well.

I also like to use tree branches and suckers (these are saplings growing from the base of larger trees) as opposed to the main trunks. This faster-growth wood has a more porous texture than the dense, main trunk and creates a faster ember with less effort. Along that same line, I’ve found that the faster the tree grows, the better it is for bow drill spindles. Single-season growth is always an excellent choice. It just so happens that the tree varieties that work best for bow drills also grow extremely fast.

Finally, any wood you choose should be as straight as possible and free of knots or cracks.

Drying a Green Kit

You may not find dead, standing wood of the variety you need, but you can cut live green wood and let it dry. For one kit, I typically cut a branch or sucker (preferred) about the diameter of my wrist and at least one foot long. I then split this piece in half and let it dry on a south-facing window sill for at least a week. Splitting the branch allows for a faster drying time.

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Best Wood for Bow Drill: Specific Tree Species

As mentioned earlier, soft woods make ideal bow drill kits. Below is a list of trees in order of my preference for both the spindle and hearth board. Where applicable I also list other noteworthy facts about these incredible survival resources.

Best Bow Drill Wood: Basswood (American Linden) (Tilia Americana)

Besides balsa, I know of no softer wood than basswood. Also known as the American Linden, basswood is a favorite of wood carvers and one of the best woods for bow drill. My friends from Britain refer to this tree as Lime. Except for areas of extreme climates, basswood can be found in most of the northern hemisphere. It is a water lover and will almost always be found growing around water.

Basswood leaves are somewhat heart shaped and almost always asymmetrical. They have a small, pea-shaped fruit that dangles from a tongue-shaped bract. Young, tender basswood leaves are among my favorite wild edible greens. I make basswood salads several times a week in early spring.

The ”bass” in basswood comes from the word ”bast,” which means fiber. The inner-bark fibers of the basswood tree make incredible natural cordage. Instant basswood bark cordage can easily be obtained in spring and summer months by peeling the bark from younger suckers or saplings. You will find this cordage to be flexible and strong. I have made many a bow drill string using basswood cordage. The bark from slightly older basswood trees (3 – 5 inches in diameter) can be pounded and peeled from the trunk during the same time of year when the sap is flowing heavy. After soaking in water for 3 – 4 weeks (called “retting”) the inner bark fibers will easily peel away from the rough exterior bark in long, ribbon-like sheets.

I recall one summer when lightning struck a large basswood tree at the edge of the pond near my training facility. This powerful strike caused the bark of that large tree to be blown from the trunk in several massive sheets, around 2 feet wide and 20 feet long. After soaking them in the pond I was able to gather several wheelbarrows of basswood cordage, which I used in training for many years after.

While I’ve used basswood of every age and type for bow drill kits, my favorite is that which is sourced from sucker trees that are 2 – 4 inches in diameter. The consistency of fast-growing sucker wood is unlike wood cut from the main tree. However, green sucker wood will require drying time. If you find a standing sucker tree that’s already dead, count yourself lucky. If suckers are not available, low-hanging branches are a good second choice.

Best Bow Drill Wood: Eastern Cottonwood (Populus deltoides)

Cottonwoods were a favorite among Native Americans across North America, as the trees were used to make dugout canoes. (Often, these were coal burned.) Cottonwood trees have a triangular-shaped leaf with toothed edges. The bark is deeply fissured. Like basswoods, cottonwoods grow primarily around water. I’ve seen massive cottonwoods along streams from Arizona to Virginia. When it comes down to it, some would argue that cottonwood is the best wood for bow drill.

Cottonwoods grow very fast—almost too fast for their own good. The combination of this fast growth and their soft wood makes for very weak branches, which is a good thing when searching for stock to make your spindle and hearth board. Dead, broken branches can almost always be found littering the base of large cottonwoods and hung up in smaller trees or underbrush nearby.

During the spring, when the cottonwood bears the source of its name, one can gather not only wood for the spindle and hearth boards, but tinder bundles as well. Cottonwoods produce seeds that are covered in cotton-like down. When gathered together, these downy clusters make a very flammable tinder bundle.

Best Bow Drill Wood: Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana)

The eastern red cedar grows primarily in the northern woods of the United States and into Canada, but I’ve had success with many different cedar varieties including western red cedar from the Pacific Northwest. Cedars are coniferous evergreens and are easily identified by their flat, fan-like branches with scaly leaves.

The dead lower branches (also known as “squaw wood”) often make excellent spindle and hearth board choices. Shredded cedar bark makes one of the most effective tinder bundles. It can easily be processed by scraping a knife at a 90-degree angle against the tree. The bark will shred off in fibrous masses that can be further processed by rubbing the shredded bark between the palms of your hands until they reach a hair-like consistency.

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Best Bow Drill Wood: Willow (Salix spp.)

There are hundreds of species of willow throughout the world, and for many, it is the best wood for bow drill. They belong to the genus Salix, and are simply called that in many areas. They love water and grow in nearly all temperate regions of the world where water is available. I’ve seen them along the banks of arroyos in the Sonoran Desert and in the marshy swamps of Maine. They grow in nearly every roadside ditch, along rivers, and at the edges of ponds. If you cut a live willow twig (called a cutting) off the tree and shove it in the ground, it will likely root and grow into a tree of its own. I’ve planted hundreds of willow trees on my own property using this method.

Willow leaves are typically long and narrow. They are widest in the middle and taper to a point on both ends. The leaf margins are finely toothed. The upper-side of the leaf is bright green, and the underside is often pale green, which gives many willows (such as the white willow, Salix alba) a silvery appearance from a distance. The bark of young trees and branches is very smooth and becomes darker and furrowed with age. Many varieties of willow, especially those related to Salix alba have brightly colored bark in early spring that can range from yellow to red.

Best Bow Drill Wood: Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)

The sycamore tree, another water lover, is nearly impossible to misidentify and is a good wood for bow drill. Its very unique bark has a winter camouflage effect: mottled with whites, tans, creams and grays. As the tree grows, the exterior bark peels off to the ground in thin, brown curls, leaving a pure white base layer exposed. No other tree in the forest has bark that looks like or behaves like the sycamore’s. When layered into a large cigar-style roll, a thick tube of sycamore bark also makes for an excellent fire carry. It will smolder a red hot ember, which can be used to blow a tinder bundle into flame when desired.

The sycamore tree also produces small balls of clustered seeds in the fall, which can be broken apart and incorporated into a tinder bundle. The seed clusters alone don’t make an ideal tinder bundle, but they are great filler when mixed with dried grasses, pine needles or bark fibers.

Like the cottonwood, the base of all sycamores will be littered with dead and broken branches all year round. These branches make very serviceable spindles and hearth boards. Sycamores also grow suckers at the base, which can be used.

Other noteworthy bow drill trees are:

• Red Alder
• Staghorn Sumac
• Aspen
• Tulip Poplar

Best Wood for Bow Drill: Woody Stalked Plants

My first successful bow drill kit wasn’t made from a tree at all, but from a woody, stalked plant – the yucca. In fact, there are several noteworthy plants with woody stalks that make fantastic bow drill spindles and hearth boards. Some of the fastest embers I’ve seen generated with a bow drill were from those carved from woody, stalked plants. Let’s discuss a few of the most popular of these.

Yucca (Yucca spp.)

I list yucca first because it has a special place in my heart since it was the first material I learned to use in my bow drill kit. It makes an excellent choice for first-time drillers. Yucca is a plant native to America’s Southwest, not to be confused with yuca, also known as manioc or cassava, which has an edible root. Yucca is a popular ornamental plant and can now be found all over the United States and throughout the world. It grows in arid deserts as well as the four-season eastern woodlands. Even the harshest of winters will not kill it. I’ve often found it growing in old cemeteries, where it no doubt was planted as an ornamental.

The leaves of the yucca are green and sword-like. Beware of the very sharp points on the tips. They grow from a central rosette and remain green year-round. There are many different species of yucca (some even growing into large yucca trees). While not edible, the yucca root is loaded with saponins and can be crushed and used as soap for washing.

Yucca’s claim to fame is its fibrous leaves, which are filled with long, strong fibers that can be woven into durable survival cordage. (This process is covered in great detail in my Pocket Field Guide entitled NATURTAL CORDAGE.) Immediate cordage can be sourced from the green leaves, but I prefer to use the dead leaves that typically can be found around the base of the plant. It is very easy to slough off the brown, flakey exterior and extract the fibers from the already-dead, dried leaves. I have successfully used yucca leaf cordage combined with a yucca stalk spindle and hearth board for many bow drill kits. Yucca is nearly a one-stop shop when it comes to gathering bow drill kit components.

The stalk of the yucca grows from the center of the plant starting in early spring. The height and diameter it reaches depends upon the species and age of the plant. Beautiful white flowers (which are actually edible) bloom all around the stalk, creating a very impressive display in spring and summer. Soon after full bloom, the yucca stalk begins to die, dry, and harden. By late fall and all through the winter it’s ready to be cut off at the base and used for a bow drill spindle and hearth board. The lightweight, porous consistency of this dead, dry, woody stalk makes for one of the best bow drill spindles available on earth. The trick can sometimes be finding a stalk that is thick enough AND straight enough to be used as a drill and hearth.

Sotol (Dasylirion spp.)

Sotol, also known as desert spoon, is similar in appearance to yucca. It, too, is an evergreen and produces long, thin, sword-shaped leaves in a circular pattern around the base. Unlike yucca, sotol cannot handle prolonged cold and therefore grows exclusively in the warm, arid environments of America’s Southwest, including the Sonoran Desert of Arizona.

Like the yucca, sotol produces a central flower stalk that is adorned with a bristle-like plume of tiny white flowers. This stalk can grow as tall as 20 feet, and I’ve seen them as large as 2 – 3 inches in diameter. The leaf edges are lined with sharp, barbed thorns, so use caution when cutting the stalk from the base.

The dead, dry, and woody stalk is used extensively for the fire plow method of friction fire-starting and is large enough to make many bow drill kits. This stalk works incredibly well for bow drill and is highly recommended if you reside in an area where the sotol plant is native.

Elderberry (Sambucus spp.)

Elderberry is a deciduous shrub found throughout the Northern Hemisphere, except in areas with extreme climates. A year-round identifying feature of the elderberry it its bark. The exterior of the bark is covered with evenly spaced little raised ”bark warts.” This is a very unique feature of the elderberry.

In spring, the elderberry bush produces flat, dinner-plate-sized flowers, which are actually made up of many small white flowers. These flowers can be battered and fried (elderberry fritters), but they are traditionally used to make elderberry syrup after being steeped in sugar water. If left to their own devices, the flowers will ultimately transform into clusters of berries colored from purple to black. These are used to make jellies, jams, wines, and all sorts of other delicious treats. All other parts of elderberry are poisonous.

The elderberry branch is unique in that it has a very large pith with a Styrofoam consistency. It’s one of the very few bushes/trees/woody, stalked plants that can be hollowed out. It’s the soft wood of the elderberry combined with its pithy center that makes it a wonderful bow drill spindle candidate. An elderberry spindle is better paired with a hearth board made from a different type of wood. It’s challenging to create a proper hearth from an elderberry stalk because of its central pith.

*Special Note: Because of the pithy center, it can be difficult to carve the top of the spindle to a point. Consequently, it is better left rounded.

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Mullein (Verbascum thapsus)

The dead, dry stalk of the mullein plant in fall and winter makes a very suitable bow drill spindle. Much like elderberry, it is better paired with a hearth board made from a different wood because a suitable hearth board is difficult to split out from a pithy-centered mullein stalk.

Mullein, also known as lamb’s ear, has large, pale-green, fuzz-covered leaves in spring and summer. The plant has a two-year life cycle. The first year it grows a low rosette of large fuzzy leaves that are nature’s perfect toilet paper and padded inserts for shoes. During its second year it shoots up a tall, straight, and woody stalk topped with masses of beautiful little yellow flowers. This stalk is almost always perfectly straight and I’ve started many a bow drill fire with a mullein spindle.

The woody stalk is firm, yet soft, and the center is filled with a dense pith. One fall I built an entire bow drill kit (excluding the bow string) from one giant mullein. I used the root for the bearing block; the stalk for the spindle, hearth and bow; and the leaves and seed head for the tinder bundle.

*Special Note: Because of the pithy center, it can be difficult to carve the top of the spindle to a point. Consequently, it is better left rounded.

Best Wood for Bow Drill: Carving Your First Kit

Material selection is only one component that you have to get right when starting a friction fire using the Bow Drill. You must also carve the kit correctly. To help make sure you carve the kit correctly, I’d like to give you my BOW DRILL CARVING TEMPLATES to use as your guide. They are FREE for you to use – all you have to do is enter your email below so that I know where to send them!

Download my FREE Bow Drill Carving Template by entering your email below!

Thanks for checking out my article about how to choose the best Bow Drill Wood – I hope you’ve found it helpful!

CR///EK

By Paul Carlson

I’m probably not telling you anything that you don’t already know, but shooting handguns is fun. Do you want to take that fun to the next level? Then shooting them with slide-mounted red dot optics is the answer, and the reason is simple — it’s easier to get hits.

Today, I’m reviewing the new HEX Dragonfly optic that can make shooting easier than using traditional “notch and post” sighting systems. Regardless of your stance on the red dot vs. iron sights argument, we know that getting hits is the key to really enjoying a shooting session.

The popularity of slide-mounted red dots isn’t just some random phenomenon. Instead, it has been based on a consistent improvement in technology and innovation over the years, as well as an understanding of the shooting issues people may face. As a result, it seems that dots are everywhere these days, and there are some very good reasons why. In this article, we are going to be looking at the Dragonfly. But first, let’s consider why you might need a red dot optic.

The Why

Regardless of the sight radius of your gun, using a red dot on your pistol can help you shoot with more precision and accuracy, especially at distance. A moderately sized dot, say around 3.5 MOA, allows you to refine your aiming point and repeatedly put rounds on a small area of the target. At the same time, you are provided with feedback on the movement of your gun by the dot on the optic’s window before you even press the trigger. That feedback generates a faster learning curve when it comes to getting hits at distance.

And when it comes to getting hits, being able to use a refined aiming point is always an advantage. But, depending on lighting conditions, sometimes it can be hard to pick up your iron sights. That’s not the case with an electronic red dot optic. Red dots, especially either with manual brightness settings for fine-tuning or auto-adjusting ones that react to ambient light on their own, make it easier to aim regardless of the lighting conditions.

Another major advantage of a red dot is the ability to “target focus,” which allows you to focus on your target rather than your sights. The principle is simple enough. The sight’s emitter projects a dot onto a glass lens that’s right on top of your handgun slide. Despite the fact that the projected dot is just a couple of feet away from your eyes, your brain imagines that the dot is at the same distance as your target.

With a red dot, you never have to shift your focus from the sight to the target, or conversely from the target to the sight. Just look at your target, and the dot will be superimposed right where you need it. This applies to the red dot both on a pistol as noted, or also on a long gun.

All the Buzz?

So, let’s get back to that HEX optic I mentioned. The red dot is the HEX Dragonfly, and it’s a standard-sized red dot electronic optic designed with full-sized handguns as well as long guns in mind. Featuring the “Springfield Standard” footprint shared with the Vortex Venom and Burris FastFire, the Dragonfly is designed with durability and ease of use in mind.

Frankly, when I think of what’s important for an optic, reliability is at the top of the list. Life and death situations require solutions that are dependable, and the Dragonfly is designed with dependability in mind. The Dragonfly features a beefy housing that is machined from 6061 T6 aluminum, and it is thick. Topped off with Hardcoat anodizing, this optic is built to withstand the abuse of recoil and a whole host of hardships. And within this rugged housing is a scratch-resistant, anti-glare-coated glass lens for the 3.5 MOA red dot. Springfield’s choice of durable materials and coatings set the stage for the duty-ready nature of the Dragonfly.

Simple Choices

When it comes to ease of use, the Dragonfly has everything you need. The red dot ships with a Picatinny mount for attaching the optic to a long gun, and as mentioned uses the Springfield Standard footprint for mounting to handgun slides. To mount onto a pistol like the XD-M Elite, you simply mount a Springfield #1 plate to the pistol along with the included sealing plate and then mount the optic. Easy. Oh, and matching up with the optic’s durability is an IPX7 waterproof rating, meaning the optic can be submerged in water up to one meter for 30 minutes.

When it comes to using up the Dragonfly, it’s an easy process as well. The Dragonfly depends on a single button to control the emitter. One press turns the dot on to the lowest brightness setting. Each push cycles the dot’s brightness up through the eight different settings, and one more push turns the optic off.

All the functions are on a single button. It doesn’t get any easier than that.

The Dragonfly runs off of a single, bottom-loading CR2032 button battery that is included with the red dot. It’s a common cell, easy to find at your local store, and it lasts. The single battery will run for more than 100,000 hours (or three years according to the HEX website). To improve power consumption, the optic cycles off after 16 hours. When you turn your optic on, you select the brightness level. The Dragonfly remains at the brightness you chose until you change it or the optic turns off.

The Dragonfly’s housing features a hood that extends out in front of the glass lens. This serves as a shield to protect the glass from impacts and adds further protection for the lens if the optic’s face were to come into contact with anything. Finally, the rear of the housing is serrated to help reduce the glare, which helps the shooter focus on the dot.

Clearly, the HEX Dragonfly has an impressive feature set, especially when you consider that its MSRP is just $249.

HEX Dragonfly Specifications

Range Time

I had a chance to get some range time with the Dragonfly mounted on top of a Springfield Armory XD-M Elite Tactical OSP 4.5” 9mm as well as an XD-M Elite 3.8” Compact OSP 9mm, and it shot great on both. The Dragonfly was easy to track. On presentation, all it took was some intentional pressure from my pinkies, and the dot dropped into the window right where I wanted it. With each trigger press, the 3.5 MOA dot would lift and then drop right back to the point of aim.

Regarding adjustments, that single button is really the way to go when it comes to setting the brightness. No complicated button press combinations to remember to lock the brightness in. Simply set it and forget it.

Also, the Dragonfly has plenty of adjustments when it comes to windage and elevation. The sight features 160 MOA windage and elevation adjustments. I especially like that the clicks are audible and tactile, and they can be easily made with a 9mm case. I had the Dragonfly zeroed in no time, and it has remained zeroed since. Check out Gunspot’s article on how to sight in a red dot for a quick way to sight in your optic.

Conclusion

While there are plenty of red dot sights out there from which to choose, Springfield Armory’s HEX stands out. The Dragonfly is a very reasonably priced optic, but with premium build quality and features. I have no doubt that the Dragonfly will serve you well, whether you are mounting it on a handgun or a long gun. It can handle all the hard knocks you can throw at it on the range, at the match or in the field. If you have been wondering if a red dot belongs on your gun, the HEX Dragonfly certainly deserves a look.

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Featured in this video

Hunting is an exciting sport that some people enjoy doing. It’s a sport that gives you an adrenaline rush.

Night hunting can be even more exciting because of the activity levels of animals. You are more likely to be successful when hunting at night.

However, night hunting can also be challenging. You need to hunt in poor visibility conditions that could make it hard to detect animals and identify their whereabouts.

Here is a simple guide if you are wondering how to be a better night hunter.

How To Be A Better Night Hunter – Simple Guide To Follow

Follow this guide to ensure that you become a successful night hunter. Night hunting indeed comes with many challenges. However, when done correctly, night hunting can be a rewarding experience.

Remember to follow the below tips to ensure you get the best night hunting experience.

Speak With Other Experienced Hunters

Experience can always help you see things from a different angle. It’s the same with hunting. Those with a lot of experience in night hunting will be able to give you an insight into this whole subject.

Experienced hunters will also have unique stories of their hunting trips in the past. Their encounters will teach you a few lessons on hunting successfully at night.

They will give you tips and advice which you will not be able to learn otherwise. You can join them on their hunting adventures and learn the techniques and a few tricks they use to become successful.

Equip Yourself With The Right Gear

Night hunting is ideal for stalking your prey in the dark and getting close enough for a clean shot. However, none of this is possible if you don’t have the right hunting gear.

Here are some of the essential hunting gear that you should have.

The right ammunition

As much as you need a good air rifle for hunting, you must also use the correct ammunition. For instance, you might need to use a heavy bullet that will penetrate through the animal’s hide, especially when hunting deer.

On the other hand, a lighter bullet will be sufficient if you’re hunting animals like rabbits and squirrels.

A good light source

Will help you see the path ahead. However, it could also alert the prey of your presence.

Therefore, you need to use a light source suitable for night hunting. Examples are red-dot sight or night vision sights – more on this later. These lights give you good vision at night without giving away your position.

Other hunting gear

Here is a list of hunting equipment you should carry at night.

• Weapon – Rifle or crossbow with ammunition or arrows
• Quiver
• Knife
• Rangefinder
• Flashlights or night vision lights
• Food and water
• First aid kit
• Night vision binoculars
• Camera

Find A Suitable Location And Have Patience

At night, it’s difficult to see your prey. Therefore, you need to find a suitable location with a good view of the open terrain. A clear and broad view will be advantageous in your search for prey.

Even after finding a good spot, getting your first prey could take a long time. That is why hunters need to have patience.

Another critical fact to note is to know when to go hunting. There are times when large numbers of animals roam around, while at other times, there are fewer. So, it’s vital to plan your hunting trip at a time when there are a lot of animals out there.

Use The Correct Lighting

Lighting plays a vital role in night hunting. You can’t use just about any light source available. For best results, you need to use the correct lighting, apt for night hunting. Animals are very swift runners; you can easily miss the game due to insufficient lighting. 

Many hunters make the mistake of using white light due to its sharpness. However, white light is inappropriate for hunting as it scares away the game, including foxes, bobcats, and coyotes. Therefore, these animals won’t come close enough for you to get a good shot.

The recommendation is to use red light, which softens the bright light and reflects a soft glow that illuminates the animal’s eyes. Target the light a little above the animal’s head so it won’t run away.

Use Night Vision

There are several night vision scopes in the market if you can afford them for your hunting trip. These include night vision scopes, riflescopes, or thermal imaging devices.

 These are devices that are specifically designed for night hunting. These devices make things clear and bright in low-light conditions.

However, these devices are costly, so many hunters avoid buying them. However, if you are a frequent night-hunter, you should consider investing in these devices.

The thermal scope is ideal to use if you are chasing the game. The thermal heat mapping in these devices increases your visibility.

The rifle scope is perfect when the hunter and prey are both static. It needs only a tiny amount of light to increase the visibility of the game.

The night vision scope gives you a large field of view and is tough to withstand heavy recoil. 

Hunting Call

Hunting calls are an excellent way to attract prey. It is a method that has been in use for thousands of years. In hunting calls, hunters mimic the sound of other animals to call the game.

It is an excellent technique for hunting at night due to limited visibility and concealed prey. Traditional methods use mouth calls that professionals used at the time.

However, now you also get digital call devices that are useful in this regard too. 

The right call will bring the game closer. So, as soon as it is in sight, all you need to do is to aim and shoot.

Dress Appropriately

Dressing appropriately is crucial for successful night hunting. You need to wear dark clothing that will blend with your surroundings.

You could also wear camouflage face paint to conceal your identity even more. It will keep you from being noticed by animals, thereby not signaling your presence.

Ensure you wear comfortable clothes and shoes, so you don’t make a noise while stalking prey.

Use Scent-Free Products

Animals are extremely sensitive to smells, more so than humans. It is their way of detecting predators. Therefore, you must ensure not to hide your position while hunting at night.

You can use scent-free soap to remove all traces of human scent in your body. You can also use scent-free detergent to reduce odor when washing your clothes.

Another product is a scent-free deodorant that you can apply to your underarms to reduce your scent further.

Final Thoughts

Hunting at night is an excellent way to catch prey, as it is when you’re most likely to see them. Becoming a better hunter at night is not challenging if you follow this simple guide.

Make sure you are well-equipped with gear specifically meant for use when hunting at night. Using the correct equipment with the right tactics will help you be successful in your night-hunting trips.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is It Better To Hunt At Night?

It’s better to hunt at night as it is when you’re most likely to see animals and get most of your kills. Many hunters recommend nighttime as the best time to hunt specific prey, including deer.

Why Do Hunters Use Red Lights At Night?

Red lights are suitable for hunting at night as they provide better eyeshine, which helps locate animals better than other colors.

Read deer hunting articles each fall, and you’ll see a lot of stories, a lot of photographs, and a lot of chest-thumping about the month of November. Outdoor writers are notorious for their November deer hunting praise and I’m as guilty as the rest of them.

In short, it’s the Whitetail Chamber of Commerce’s best advertising material, the month when the woods are alive with colorful leaves falling to the ground on a freshening north wind and deer-hunting prospects are at their very best.

That’s because November is when estrous does are plentiful. Mr. Big and his antlered buddies are throwing caution to the wind, and every deer trail has the potential of a whitetail love triangle straight out of the latest Yellowstone episode.

But then there’s the month of December, a time when the deer woods are suddenly as barren as Ebenezer Scrooge’s bankrupt soul, a collection of weeks as dead as the proverbial door nail pulled straight from the opening lines of Charles Dicken’s “A Christmas Carol.”

If you find yourself hunting in December with an empty buck tag in your back pocket, well, good luck. Because you’re going to need it, right?

Not necessarily. Play your cards right in the season’s 11th hour—and follow these five buzzer-beating tips—and you just might end the season smiling as big as the redeemed soul of old Ebenezer when he hears Tiny Tim cry out “God bless us everyone!”

Curious as to what you can do to tag a late-season buzzer-beater buck? Follow these five cardinal rules for late-season success.

1. Hunt the Fronts

The first rule is to hunt the passage of strong cold fronts. Especially on the day or two leading up to the frontal passage as the barometer is falling, clouds are gathering, and wildlife are noticing that a storm is brewing.

Like humans do with their pre-winter storm milk and bread run rituals that wipe out the shelves at the local grocery store, wildlife do something similar as they get up, feed heavily and pile on the calories to prepare for the coming blast of Old Man Winter.

• Read more: Tag a Whitetail When It’s Hot, Cold, Wet or Windy

That’s what a bowhunting friend of mine named Tarif Alkhatib did a few years ago when he arrowed a gnarly horned, multi-tined non-typical buck in North Texas as the first Arctic blast of the season moved in.

Bundled up in his Under Armour hunting gear as the front barreled through and dropped temps into the lower 30s with light freezing precipitation, Alkhatib downed the buck as it moved quickly by his stand.

One good shot from his Mathews bow and the dedicated archer was soon on the ground shaking from both excitement and the cold as he tagged one of several wall-hangers that he’s knocked down in recent seasons.

Keep in mind that the same principle applies to a day or two after a storm, as deer get back on their feet and come out to feed and move around when the sun starts shining, the precipitation ends, and temperatures start to slowly moderate.

2. Hunt the Food

The idea noted above leads to the second rule of late-season success — hunt near high-calorie food sources. In the Midwest, that might be a cut corn field or a snow-covered soybean field. In the Deep South, it could be a green food plot or an oak tree with a few acorns still laying around. And in Texas, where I live, it could be a corn feeder shelling out golden nuggets twice a day.

Hunting late-season food is exactly what Robert Taylor did at the end of the 2012 season when he arrowed a huge North Texas non-typical whitetail that was chronicled in the pages of North American Whitetail.

The key to Taylor’s hunt — which came on the evening of Dec. 29 as cold weather and the remains of the region’s 2012 White Christmas dotted the landscape — was food.

• Read More: Field of Dreams Offer Food for Whitetails, Success for Hunters

That food was the combination of a feeder spitting corn out and a food plot that promised local deer high-caloric intake during the cold snap. That was enough to lure in several does, a good 10-point buck, and the huge bruiser that Taylor ended up shooting. All on a five-acre plot of land, no less.

Unfortunately, the Taylor buck rode a bit of a scoring roller coaster – it received a green score of 249 2/8 inches, then a 60-day entry score of 254 4/8 inches, and finally a revised Pope and Young Club panel score of 219 1/8 inches. While the middle number would have made it a Texas bow buck record, 219 and change is nothing to sneeze at and proof positive that even the buck of a lifetime can come calling if the weather is cold and there’s adequate whitetail food around.

3. Hunt Thick and Nasty Cover

On an outdoor writer’s deer hunt last December in Oklahoma with Kevin Reese and the Sight Mark optics crew, I pushed my hunting luck to the very end. But hunting a box-blind stand in a Sooner State pecan bottom during the final hour of the final day of my hunt at Dakota Stower’s most excellent North Texas Outfitters operation, I was rewarded for nothing more than sheer persistence. And sitting in a post-rut deer stand situated next to some of the area’s thickest and gnarliest cover.

As high cirrus clouds streamed in and muted the last hour’s shooting light that was filtering into the pecan bottom, a good 8-point buck stepped out of the creek bottom’s nasty vegetation where he had holed up and bedded down the entire day. But as he trotted through a brief window of a last-hour shooting opportunity before ducking back into the thick cover, one shot from my rifle put down the only deer I would tag in all of 2019.

A short while later, I was discarding the recipe for “tag soup” I had carried in my back pocket last fall, not to mention looking through my phone contact list for the number of a favored taxidermy shop, all thanks to my own buzzer-beater buck.

4. Hunt the Secondary Rut

A fourth rule in tagging a December bruiser is to remember that November doesn’t always have the market cornered on rutting activity.

That’s because of the secondary rut which occurs when does that weren’t bred in last month’s breeding frenzy actually cycle into estrous again approximately 28 days later.

While some hunters debate the strength of secondary rutting activity and its effects on big buck hunting potential, you won’t find Dallas hunter Sherman Wyman arguing about it. That’s because Wyman capitalized on the secondary rut on Dec. 24, 2005 when he shot a B&C non-typical buck netting 226 4/8 inches on his low-fence ranch near Wichita Falls in the state’s Red River country.

• Read more: Second Rut, Last Chance

“I’ve shot a lot of big deer around Christmas time,” said Wyman. “(In North Texas), everyone thinks once Thanksgiving or the first of December has come and gone, you’re done.”

Obviously not.

In Wyman’s mind, the keys to hunting the secondary rut successfully are to find scrapes that have been reopened, to identify and hunt preferred natural food sources that mature bucks tend to key on, and to be in the woods when late-born fawns come into their first estrous cycle in December.

5. Punch the Clock

A final rule to notching a tag on a December buzzer-beater buck is to employ the deer-hunting version of the photographer’s old “F8 and be there” rule.

For photographers of old-school training, that rule means to put your digital camera on manual, set the f-stop to F8 and be there for the shot.

That idea rings true for late season deer hunters too.

A deer hunting physician I once knew practiced this rule near my North Texas home many years ago just before Christmas when he carved time out of his busy holiday and professional schedule, braved some intense cold weather, and got to the nearest deer stand as the season was winding down.

Deer season, as well as the holiday season, that is.

• Read more: How to Rally for a Late-Innings Whitetail

Dr. Wade was rewarded for his consistent punching of the clock that December when he arrowed a beautiful 163 5/8 inch net typical, a wide and beautiful racked buck that adorned the good doctor’s Christmas cards that year.

My good friend Dale Moses, a passionate bowhunter and retired Texas Game Warden, has taken numerous big deer over the years with his Mathews bow, a few of those wall-hangers getting tagged in the season’s final days. That includes a late-season buzzer-beater back in 2013, one that he dubbed “Captain Hook.”

Just after Christmas that year, in a frigid stretch of weather that was gripping the North Texas woods Moses had hunted all season, his cat-and-mouse game with this big non-typical finally ended. The whopper non-typical buck placed well in the Texas Big Game Awards Program that year, scoring 184 0/8-inches.

Want to do something similar as the 2020 deer season winds down? Then get out of that easy chair, leave the warmth of the fireplace behind, and get into your deer stand, even if it’s the season’s final hours.

Because when it comes to tagging a buzzer-beater buck, you just never know, right?

“How many guys do you know that were out on a (North Texas) deer stand on Christmas Eve?” asked Sherman Wyman.

The truth is, not very many.

Only the ones whose inner hunting flame still burns hot enough to drive them out the warm comfort of home and into the chill of the late-season whitetail woods.

Which is exactly where they hope to be to beat back Jack Frost’s wintertime chill while tagging a buzzer beater buck just in time for Christmas delivery.

Print Recipe

There’s more to venison than just backstrap, tenderloin and hamburger. Venison is versatile, but it would be a mistake to expect the same results from every part of a deer. Each cut is special in its own right. The cooking suggestions below will help you get the most out of your deer.

Venison Neck

Venison neck is laced with silver skin and oftentimes fat. It’s one of my favorite cuts for slow cooking. All that collagen breaks down with slow, low heat, and takes on an amazing texture that rivals that of pork shoulder.

However, because of its odd shape, I like to use the neck for dishes that call for shredded meat, dishes such as tamales, tacos, burritos, enchiladas, stew, soup and sandwiches. Or try the pulled meat on top of pizza, in pasta sauces or in hand pies. You can also cut off the entire neck, bone-in, and braise it to make pot roast over mashed potatoes.

The most ideal cut of meat for slow cooking requires connective tissue – venison neck provides that.

Recipes for Venison Neck:

• Cajun Smoked Venison Neck
• Japanese-Style Venison and Pork Belly

Venison Ribs

Depending on the size of the deer, you may not get more than a few scraps of meat here. We cut off strips between the rib bones and save it for grinding or filler meat for stew and chili.

If you shoot a larger deer, the ribs could be worth sawing off and braising. Do not cook venison ribs like you would pork or beef ribs; they will dry out quickly. Slow cook the ribs first until tender – covered and fully submerged in liquid – and then finish on the smoker or grill for color and flavor.

During the winter, our Nebraska deer can get quite fat. This fat may or may not taste good, and will determine whether you choose to keep the rib meat. If it tastes okay, a little fat is fine, but when there’s a lot of it, keep in mind that deer fat can have a waxy texture that is not so pleasant on the tongue.

Recipes for Venison Ribs:

• Amazing Venison Ribs
• Wild Game Stock (or Broth)

Venison Shoulder/Chuck

The shoulder is full of great meat for stew, soup, braising and grinding for burgers, chili and sausage. Aside from the “mock” tenders, most of the muscles on this part of a typical white-tailed deer are too small for decent steaks.

Leave the silver skin on for slow cooking – it will turn into gelatin and provide a juicy texture to the meat. If grinding, try to remove as much silver skin as possible. Too much silver skin in a grind will prevent proper binding in your burgers.

Larger muscles can also be shaved thinly for stir fry, fajitas and cheesesteak sandwiches. Also, you can slice the meat thinly to make jerky. Remember to remove as much silver skin as possible for these treatments.

Recipes for Venison Shoulder/Chuck:

• Venison Stew
• Venison Pot Pie
• Ultimate Square Venison Burger

Venison Loin/Backstrap

The coveted venison backstrap needs no introduction. The only rule for this cut is to not overcook it. Medium-rare is best: between 130- and 135-degrees Fahrenheit.

To cook the loin for stunning medallions, remove as much silver skin as possible. Tuck in the tapered ends – if any – and tie the entire piece with kitchen twine, which helps the loin cook evenly and keep its round shape. Allow the meat to rest before slicing to allow the juices to redistribute.

For a more impressive presentation, keep the meat attached to the ribs and saw off for racks of venison chops. For a simpler preparation, butterflied steaks are my go-to. The backstrap can also be sliced, seasoned and marinated to make the most tender kebabs on the grill.

I also enjoy making venison steak tartare with the loin, which is a raw dish.

Recipes for Venison Loin/Backstrap:

• Roasted Venison Loin with Scotch Whisky Sauce
• Bourbon BBQ Venison Backstrap
• Venison Steak Diane

Venison Tenderloin

The tenderloin is the first cut that is usually taken off a deer. This cut is so tender that it should be treated simply – salt and pepper is all it needs, with a quick hot sear with butter on the grill or in a pan.

Do not keep the tenderloins on the deer while hanging and aging. They will dry out quickly.

Recipes for Venison Tenderloin:

• Smoked Venison Tenderloin
• Venison Tenderloin Oscar
• Venison Tenderloin Mini Wellingtons

Venison Rump

The rump offers a small piece of muscle, best for pot roast and stew meat. It can also be ground for burger, chili and sausage. The size and quality of the cut will also depend on how careful you were when cutting the hindquarters from the deer.

Recipes for Venison Rump:

• Venison Fennelise Italian Sausage
• Easy Venison Taco Dip
• Grilled Venison Quesadilla Burger with Guacamole

Venison Hindquarter/Round

The hindquarter is my favorite part of the deer. It’s large and variable, with cuts that are suitable for steak, jerky, braising, stew, kebabs and grinding. The major muscles in the hindquarter are the top round, bottom round, eye of round and sirloin.

The top and bottom rounds are large pieces of whole muscle, great for steaks in young deer or aged deer. The bottom round is usually more tender, especially in the tri-tip area toward the bottom of the muscle. If you find these cuts a bit tough, marinate them first. The rounds also make delicious kebabs and stir fry when sliced thinly. When I’m out of loin, I use the rounds to make steak tartare.

The eye of round looks a lot like a piece of tenderloin. On young deer, this can be a very tender cut. For older deer, marinate it or use it for jerky or for stir fry and fajitas.

The sirloin is a large knuckle of muscles, with a little bit of silver skin throughout. On young deer or aged deer, the sirloin may be sliced for steaks – eat around the silver skin. For not-so-tender deer, this cut is suitable for braising whole, making jerky, as stew meat or ground meat.

Recipes for Venison Hindquarter/Round:

• Southern-Style Honey Barbecue Venison Jerky
• Pineapple and Jalapeño Venison Jerky
• Venison Kabobs
• Grilled Korean Bulgogi Venison Kebabs

Shanks

These long bones look like clubs of meat and are full of silver skin and ligaments near the joints. They’re a massive pain to debone and clean – the muscles are tiny, cradled by an extensive network of connective tissue.

While shanks are not suitable in some treatments, they are absolutely amazing in the slow cooker. Remember the collagen discussed in the neck section? The shanks have even more of it, and when braised, they turn into gelatin, making it the most unctuous cut of meat that exists on a deer. This is where venison osso buco comes from. Savor all four of them.

Recipes for Venison Shanks:

• Venison Osso Buco
• Braised Venison Shanks

Flank

The flanks are thin pieces of meat that stretch between the ribs and hindquarters on both sides of a deer. You can add them to the grind pile or slice for jerky.

Recipes for Venison Flank:

• Venison Carne Asada Marinade
• Homemade Ground Venison Jerky

Click here for more venison recipes

A look at some of the best offerings to tempt a trout this month and beyond.

Regardless of whether there is a closed season with opening day festivities or year-round angling in your home waters, April fishing is synonymous with trout. Even many hardcore saltwater anglers find themselves walking down a trout stream at one point or another in the 4th month. And while the trout purists are a group all unto themselves, for most of us trout fishing is a simple leisurely activity that provides a way to bridge the gap from winter shack-nasties to spring success. Nonetheless, certain baits have their time and place on both native trout and fresh stockies alike. For the purposes of today’s column, I will skip fly fishing as it simply isn’t my area of expertise—perhaps I’ll visit it next spring.

Spoons

Whether cast, jigged or trolled, spoons such as the Kastmaster, Thomas Buoyant, Little Cleo, Tom’s Taz Lure and others are great options for actively-feeding fish. When the appropriate size lure is chosen, you can just as easily fish them in a deep-woods stream as an expansive lake. When a standard cast-and-retrieve isn’t working, or when hunting fish in deep water, a count-down method can be used. Cast the spoon out and let it sink for a pre-determined amount of time before beginning the retrieve. Make note of the sink time when you begin catching as more fish will often be found there. In deep lakes, don’t be afraid to bounce the spoon off the bottom—you might just end up catching the biggest fish of the day!

Inline Spinnerbaits

Much like the spoon, an inline spinner has long been a hot trout lure. Whether you throw a Mepp’s, Rooster Tail, Blue Fox, Panther Martin or local favorite, this is a great searching lure when fish have spread out from where they were stocked. I like to set one line out with bait of some sort and then prospect the nearby waters with a spinner on a second rod. They are available in a wide range of sizes, and as a bonus there probably isn’t a fish in your lake or stream that won’t strike a spinner so your odds of simply catching are greatly improved.

Jigs

Probably not the first thing thought of by the average trout fisherman, jigs are a deadly option nonetheless. Soft plastics such as Trout Magnets, Gulp or even an old-school curly-tail grub can be mounted on a jig head and cast to schooling fish. Small hair jigs can be extremely effective on heavily-pressured fish as well as holdovers that have become more accustomed to feeding on naturally-occurring baits as opposed to hatchery pellets. One trick for using a jig of any sort in a stream is to swing it below a float and let it ride down current on an open bail.

Hard Baits

While hard baits such as the Yo-Zuri Pins Minnow have been popular with trouters for many years, other options including the Yo-Zuri crystal minnow, Rebel minnow and the Rapala minnow should not be overlooked! Many a big brown trout has fallen for a large hard bait swum in the shallows around dusk, and they also produce in fast-moving streams where they can be held in the current or swung into a seam or deep pool.

Soft Baits

The word “PowerBait” is almost synonymous these days with trout fishing. Whether you use dough, nuggets, worms or eggs, this stuff is like crack to a trout. I’ve had days where I almost didn’t have time to set a second rod at a stocked pond as trout after trout slammed a hook tipped with PowerBait. It’s easy to use, always at the ready and lasts a long time on the hook.

The Real Deal

From egg sacks to garden worms to grass shrimp (where legal) to minnows, it is tough to beat the appeal of a live bait for trout. They can be fished on the bottom, free-floated in a stream or hung below a bobber. I fish some tidal streams that dump into the salt and have the occasional sea-run trout that noses up above the salt line. I fish with grass shrimp that I trap in the days leading up to a trip, and I can even start a bit of a feeding frenzy with a regular handful or two of shrimp tossed out into the current.

So with states across the Northeast stocking hundreds of thousands of fresh brown, brook, rainbow, tiger and even golden trout over the past few weeks, now is the time to dig out that freshwater rod, grab a few lures or baits and head to your local trout stream to dust the winter cobwebs off your casting arm!