Considerations for pigeon loft design, types of pigeons, and reasons why keeping birds is beneficial when training a bird dog

Congratulations! You just brought home a new bird dog puppy and among the many preparations you made in anticipation of this new family member was building a pigeon loft, stocking it with birds, and training the birds to rehome to their loft. Wait, you didn’t get around to that yet and you are just now searching the internet for training pigeons? You’ve come to the right place: here is a crash course in pigeon-keeping. It’s not nearly as tough as you might think.

During your research into training a bird dog, you have undoubtedly heard this simple cliché ad nauseum, “It takes birds to make a bird dog.” Nothing could be more true. Ideally, we would all train on wild birds and our dogs would be perfect, but that isn’t the case for the vast majority of us. Thankfully we have pigeons-the most reliable training partner a dog owner could ask for-and with the help from a well-timed remote bird launcher, we can make our pigeons flush wild just like any late season ruffed grouse. If you keep homing pigeons, they become a renewable and recyclable training resource; you can even sell your extra young birds to recoup some of the initial start-up and feed expenses.

“Hold on,” I can hear you saying, “I just committed my life to keeping a crazy bird dog puppy, and now this guy wants me to become a pigeon farmer. Are you out of your mind?” Maybe, but hear me out.

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Reasons to keep pigeons for bird dog training

Many people feel that keeping a team of homing pigeons is a bit too much. They believe that the idea of getting their birds from poultry auctions, Craigslist, or trapping them is far less intimidating. All three are viable solutions to the problem of getting birds for training, but none of these solutions are on your terms. You are at the mercy of other people; poultry auctions are hit-or-miss when it comes to pigeon availability and another desperate bird dog owner may come along and outbid you. I was once that desperate bird dog owner who paid $25 for the only pigeon at the auction so that I wouldn’t go home empty-handed. Since the pigeon wasn’t homed to my loft, I watched my $25 “investment” fly off after a training session. Getting birds this way is not only unreliable, it can also be very expensive.

Catching feral birds is a nice D.I.Y. aspiration, but in reality, it is time consuming and perhaps a dangerous proposition if you choose to capture them by climbing ladders with a net in the dark. If you use traps, you will find yourself devoting a lot of time learning how to build traps and how to trap birds. You can burn a lot of time and gas checking your traps. I don’t have that kind of time to mess around and I would rather burn gasoline while traveling to my training destinations. You should also be wary of various bird diseases that can be transmitted to humans, as feral pigeons are little more than rats with wings and the areas they inhabit in barns and under bridges are beyond filthy from the droppings of generations of disease-ridden feral birds.

You can buy feral birds that someone else trapped, but then you get into the reliability factor. Your supplier could be out of birds when you need them, or perhaps they command top dollar in your area. Five dollars is the average per bird in my area, but I have seen them go for much, much more. Remember, too, that you aren’t reusing these birds again and again like you would with your own personal team of homing pigeons; you are literally throwing that $5+ bird away… and yet its diseases stay behind. You might consider building a holding cage to stock up on trapped birds and save them for your training sessions, but by then, my friend, you should definitely just build a loft and keep homers yourself.

What is a pigeon loft?

A pigeon loft is essentially a pigeon-friendly chicken coop. It is usually raised a few feet off the ground and offers shelter where the birds feel safe. Theoretically a loft could simply be built from a cardboard refrigerator box as long as it is weather- and predator-proofed. I’ve seen lofts in all shapes and sizes, from a five-gallon bucket mounted on the side of a garage housing a breeding pair of birds to an elaborate, multi-roomed mobile home converted into a pigeon racer’s dream breeding facility.

Pigeons aren’t hard to keep and they aren’t particular. But what if you don’t have a yard to keep your pigeon loft? Years ago I was an apartment dweller with a bird dog. I kept three homers in a rabbit cage on my balcony.

Get creative.

Over the years, I have made pigeon lofts out of greenhouses, modified shipping containers from moving companies, transformed old school bus stops from neighbors whose children have grown, and built one with scrap wood. A pigeon loft only needs a few things to make it a home for the birds. Pigeons will live in anything. The standardized loft design is mainly for your convenience in working with them.

Pigeon loft building considerations

Ventilation

The most important thing to keep the birds healthy is to achieve maximum ventilation with no draft. Pigeons create a lot of dander which is unhealthy for you and them. Poorly-ventilated lofts promote coccidiosis or pigeon lung disease, so there needs to be some air flow. However, the birds also need a way to get out of drafts which can kill them under the wrong circumstances. Some of the healthiest lofts I have ever seen are just three solid walls with the floor, roof, and one open face covered by hardware cloth. The birds had cubbies in which to shelter from any winds through the front of the building. A loft like this will also withstand some moderate overcrowding. Overcrowding happens. Maybe you are saving birds to sell to some chump who just got a bird dog puppy or maybe you are anticipating training with friends. The better the birds can breathe, the healthier they will be in crowded conditions.

Flooring

The floor must be dry. Whether you build a simple wire floor which allows droppings and spilled food to fall through or a wooden floor that you must scrape every day, it needs to be dry. Dirt floors work, but it is difficult to manage diseases when they come to visit your birds. My favorite floor is a raised plywood floor covered with firewood pellets. The absorbent nature of the firewood pellets keeps everything dry until I can get around to cleaning it.

Entrance and security

The birds need a way to get in and out. This is usually a pigeon-sized entrance with a landing board. It is essential that the opening is able to be securely closed so that the birds stay in and the predators stay out. Flapping pigeon wings are a dinner bell to avian predators and they will soon have your loft marked on their daily patrol.

You should also install a set of pigeon trap bobs over the entrance to allow the birds to enter but not leave. Pigeon trap bobs are readily available online in a variety of sizes. Once your birds have entered the loft through the bobs for the day, you will want a door you can close behind them to keep predators from entering or ambitious pigeons from exiting through the bobs.

Maintenance access

You must be able to access your birds for feeding, cleaning, and collection for training, etc. This is usually a standard door on the back or side of the loft but again, be creative with lifting hatches and sliding panels to save space and material!

Consider your strategy for preventing birds from escaping while you are netting some to take out for training. In a very large loft, perhaps the door can close behind you while you work in the loft. For smaller lofts, plan to be able to block the opening with your body while you are reaching in for access.

Perches and roosts

Pigeons need multiple perches. They will fight for their own territory within the loft, so it is important that each bird gets its own perch. This is the individually-claimed space that they are homing to when they fly great distances back to your loft.

A best practice is to build 1.5 perches per expected bird so that when temporary overcrowding inevitably occurs, the birds will each have their own spot to roost.

Food and water

Clean food and water are essential for healthy birds. A pigeon will perch on anything that it can perch on; when they perch, they poop. Buy pigeon-specific feeders and waterers which can readily be found online or build your own pigeon-proof system. This may take a few design iterations as their ability to poop in their own water will continually amaze you.

Pigeons need a special protein diet different from chickens, so specialized pigeon feed is a must for long-term health. Like most birds, pigeons need grit to aid in proper digestion.

Loft placement location

The loft should be placed away from other buildings and trees. An ideal loft location would be on a rooftop, making the loft itself the highest point around. Many birds are successfully kept on rooftops in cities. If there is something taller than the loft nearby, the birds will naturally want to perch on it instead of entering the loft. This puts your pigeons at risk of being picked off by predators. If it isn’t possible to place your loft away from buildings or trees don’t let that stop you, just be sure to never let the birds out on a full stomach or else returning home will be at the bottom of their priority list for the day.

The above considerations will get your loft started for relatively little time or financial investment. Once you’ve established a loft there are long-term bird-keeping nuances to learn, but that is for another article.

Read: Living with Pen-Raised Quail for Dog Training

Choosing pigeons for dog training

Not all pigeons are created equal and not all are suitable for dog training. You need homing or racing pigeons. These birds are athletes in their own right and have been selectively bred over hundreds of years for speed, endurance, and an incredibly strong desire to make it back to their home perch.

My pigeon mentor had one bird fly over 600 miles in a single day to win a race where it competed against thousands of other birds. Pigeon racing is a huge rabbit hole that I invite you to go down once you start keeping birds; it is a lot of fun with a rich tradition and history.

Because this homing instinct is so strong, avoid buying mature birds over four months old unless you are willing to have a breeding loft where you can keep these birds contained for the rest of their lives and only use their offspring to keep as training birds. It is possible, but time consuming, to “rehome” mature pigeons to your loft. Once the birds have had a few hatches of chicks, they have about a fifty/fifty chance at returning to your home loft if you let them out.

Where do you get racing pigeons? Find a local racing pigeon club; these are some of the friendliest and most helpful groups around and if you take an interest in their sport, they will open the door to a whole network of pigeon people in your area with birds and the right knowledge to help you keep them healthy. If there are no clubs within reasonable driving distance, then Craigslist, auctions, and feed stores are all good places to look for homing pigeon breeders.

Focus your pigeon search on one-month-old pigeons called “squeakers” (they are called this because they squeak instead of grunt or coo like older birds). Squeakers are visually identifiable by yellow strands of fuzz poking through their feathers and pink flesh around their beak. The fuzz goes away quickly and the flesh around the beak (called a wattle) will turn white as they mature. Generally, birds under three or four months of age will readily rehome to a new loft within a few weeks of being locked down. The lockdown helps the birds familiarize themselves with the loft surroundings.

Spring and summer are usually the best time to find squeakers as pigeon fanciers and racers will often have a surplus of birds. Locating squeakers during the winter and fall is a daunting task because the birds are usually separated at this time or not breeding.

Note: I do not recommend trying to rehome feral pigeons. As I mentioned above, there is limited chance that the bird will “rehome” after hatching babies, but the possibility of disease infecting the loft isn’t worth the risk.

A word on fancy and show pigeons: these birds are bred for their looks and not their flying abilities. I would avoid them at all costs. Even if you are just planning on shooting them, they will often only flutter a few yards away, allowing the dog an opportunity to catch them. I have even seen them land on the dog handler’s head before. It is best to stick with homing or racing birds, which are always strong flyers.

How many birds should I keep for training?

If you are training one dog, three to five pairs of homing pigeons will be more than adequate. This allows a buffer in case a bird is lost to a hawk or to disease. When the training season is over, you can add nest boxes to the loft and raise a new generation of training birds.

The number of birds you keep is highly dependent on the size of your loft. Many people suggest two to three cubic feet per bird. This is not an exact science, but I feel it is a good rule of thumb if you have adequate ventilation and an appropriate number of perches. Overcrowding leads to stress and stress leads to disease that can wipe out an entire flock. It’s always safest to go with fewer birds until you know what you are doing.

So there you have it: the basics to get your foot in the door and wrap your mind around keeping pigeons. It isn’t hard and once you have a team of birds trained (which I will get into in a later post) you can pay yourself $5 every time you release one to fly home. There is definitely a lot more to keeping a healthy team of training homers, but just getting a loft together is the hardest part. If you have been with me this far, you have found it really isn’t that hard at all.

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PCP air rifles are becoming more and more popular, as they provide a lot of power in a lightweight package. But which is the lightest PCP air rifle on the market? Keep reading to learn more!

The AEA Element is a lightweight, portable PCP air rifle that can be easily carried in any backpack or toolbox. Made almost completely from carbon fiber and sporting features like an ergonomic folding stock – it’s both lightweight (2.8 pounds without the scope) yet still durable enough for all sorts of outdoor adventures.

Features:

• CALIBER: .22 – .25
• Weight: 2.8 LBS
• Barrel Length: 16 Inches
• Overall Length: 35 Inches
• Integral Shroud
• Cocking System: Side Bolt Lever
• Magazine Capacity: .22 Cal (10 shots) – .25 Cal (8 shots)
• Air Filling Pressure: 3600 PSI
• Air Tube Capacity: 180 CC
• Muzzle Velocity: .22 Cal (1000 FPS ,14.3 GR) – .25 Cal (850 FPS, 24 GR)
• Muzzle Energy .22 Cal 35 ft/lbs. (45 Joules) – .25 Cal 40 ft/lbs. (55 Joules)
• Optics: Picatinny Rail Scope Mount

(For more on the best PCP air rifle on the market, see this post)

When I hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2019, I wanted a sun shirt for the heat. I’d heard bamboo has a lot of the same properties as wool but doesn’t get as hot. Wool was my go-to choice for long-distance adventures for its anti-stink and warm-when-wet insulating properties, but I wanted something cooler. So I got to researching.

I typed “bamboo sun hoodie” into Google and ended up on Free Fly Apparel’s website. I had never heard of this fishing brand, and they definitely were not marketing to hikers. The anglers all over the site looked cool in more ways than one, but were they secretly overheating under that full-coverage hood?

I decided to give this unknown-to-me brand a shot. I bought the Bamboo Lightweight Hoodie, put it on, and started my PCT thru-hike. And after 2 months of wearing this shirt in conditions ranging from 100 degrees under the blazing desert sun to late-season snowstorms, I was sold. The lightweight sun hoodie had become my favorite trail top. Right up until I lost it.

In short: The Bamboo Lightweight Hoodie from Free Fly Apparel is a must-have for hot summertime pursuits in the sun. Like wool, it doesn’t stink as polyester shirts do, but it keeps you cooler than wool. Plus, it’s buttery-soft, so you’ll be happy to wear it for days on end. Nothing I’ve found hits the sweet spot between comfort and durability like this shirt.

Free Fly Bamboo Lightweight Hoodie: Review

Unfortunately, after weeks of endless rain and snow, I picked up a thin polyester shirt in hopes of staying drier. That was a mistake. The sun came out one glorious afternoon, and I changed into that new dry shirt.

That ill-fated afternoon, I forgot my Free Fly Hoodie on the side of a mountain along the PCT. I suspect if I hadn’t lost the shirt, it would’ve lasted the entire 2,650-mile thru-hike.

I recently got another Free Fly Bamboo Lightweight Hoodie. Between that first hoodie and now, 4 years later, I’ve abused the crap out of countless other sun shirts. I should’ve bought a replacement Bamboo Lightweight Hoodie much sooner.

One Shirt Every Day, for 2 Months

I legitimately wore this sun hoodie every day for 2 months. I washed it occasionally, about once a week, but only when I could conveniently access laundry. Really, I never felt like this hoodie needed to be washed, unlike most polyester shirts I’ve worn since (or my socks, which were always the reason for doing laundry).

Much like wool, bamboo has natural antibacterial properties. If the smell is any indicator, this fabric doesn’t seem to let microorganisms proliferate. Thanks to an antimicrobial agent called “bamboo kun,” bacteria have a hard time sticking to bamboo fabric. I didn’t perform any scientific testing on the freshness of this shirt. But, I definitely monitored whether or not it smelled bad — and it didn’t.

You may have been able to find me in a laundromat somewhere in California, wearing only raingear, sniffing the armpits as I loaded the Bamboo Lightweight Hoodie into a washing machine.

Bamboo Fabric: Cooler Than Wool and Fresher Than Polyester

This sun hoodie’s fabric is the reason I could wear it every day for so long. It’s made of a knit material that’s 70% viscose from bamboo and 30% polyester. The bamboo makes this material incredibly soft and keeps you cool while staying fresh longer.

This shirt kept me the coolest in hot, sunny conditions of any hooded sun shirt I’ve worn. An ultrathin polyester shirt also does a pretty good job of protecting from the sun without building up heat, but I find bamboo does a better job.

Beyond its temperature-regulating properties, this fabric is just plain comfortable. It feels downright luxurious, nothing like the slippery feeling of synthetic fabrics. This fabric is buttery soft, and quite a joy to put on every day (or never take off).

Sun Protection on Par With the Best

Every shirt that claims to be a sun hoodie must protect you from the sun, but the Free Fly Bamboo Hoodie does this better than most. It has an awesome hood that overlaps under your chin to cover your entire neck. This hood fits so well that I use it to keep my hat from blowing off my head in windy conditions.

I hiked tons of long, hot stretches of the PCT with the hood pulled over my head and hands covered up to my fingers (yes, it has thumbholes). Even with temperatures in the triple digits, I never felt like I needed to roll up my sleeves or take off the hood to cool off. And when I did roll up the sleeves and remove the hood, I didn’t feel any cooler. This fabric breathes that well.

Trail-Tested Durability

After 2 months of wearing it daily, the Bamboo Lightweight Hoodie showed no signs of wear. I’d rely on this as my only shirt for months, without hesitation. (And I did.)

Polyester is definitely the most durable material for a sun shirt. It’s more abrasion-resistant and doesn’t degrade in the sun like natural fibers. However, I’ve never been able to wear a polyester shirt for months at a time because it gets that old polyester smell, and the stink doesn’t even go away when you wash it.

I’ve also beaten the crap out of wool sun shirts in the past, and they all developed holes on the shoulders and back after about 2 months of wearing them with a pack. I expect this would happen eventually with bamboo as well, but in my experience, it doesn’t seem to happen as fast as with wool.

Free Fly Bamboo Lightweight Hoodie: Final Thoughts

Bamboo fabric isn’t a panacea. It’s definitely cooler than wool and less stinky than polyester. It also dries faster than cotton, and still insulates when wet, unlike cotton.

But, bamboo fabric doesn’t seem to keep you as warm when wet as wool does. If I expect to be hiking in cold rain, sleet, or snow, I’m still going to reach for a wool hoodie. But for hot and exposed under the blazing sun, it’s hard to beat bamboo.

And 4 years after buying my first Bamboo Lightweight Hoodie from Free Fly Apparel, they’re still the best game in town for bamboo. This time, I’m not going to take it off.

Waterfowl hunting is tough on gear! The conditions for an amazing day at the marsh, on the lake, in flooded timber, or on the river are the same conditions that will put your gear to the test. Cold fronts, snow cover, and winter storms drive the waterfowl migration south and you can bet you don’t want to miss those new birds arriving to your honey hole. Hunters spend countless hours sorting through decoys, blinds, waders, and calls getting ready for the hunt, but don’t forget to pay special attention to the gun you are taking into the field, and how you expect it to perform. Specifically, make sure you are using the right choke for your waterfowl hunts this season.

Shotgun choke selection is a key decision on any waterfowl hunt. Knowing how your shotgun will perform at various ranges with a selected choke is paramount to successfully bagging more birds. Screw in chokes give hunters the flexibility and confidence to adjust to the hunting situation by having multiple choke choices available. By catering your shotgun choke tube to the hunting situation at hand, you can put more pellets on target when those ducks and geese come cruising in. One key component when it comes to selecting the right choke for the hunt is knowing how your shotgun will perform with each choke tube and shotshell in your bag at various ranges.

Choke tube patterning is an important step to quickly discern how your gun will perform with various shotgun choke tubes at varying distances. A little trigger time at the range will provide incredibly valuable information when it comes time to hunt. Different hunting styles and situations call for changing up your choke tube to be most effective. By patterning your shotgun with choke tubes designed for close, medium, and long ranges, with the ammunition you plan to hunt with, you will have the confidence to get on target. Waterfowl hunting requires non-toxic shot, and many hunters choose steel shot. As a general rule, you should move up one choke size from lead to steel when selecting a choke for your waterfowl hunts. If you would use a full choke with lead shot, move to a modified when shooting steel; from modified with lead to improved with steel, etc. Many manufacturers offer a three pack choke tube package, putting together the appropriate chokes for close range, medium range, and long range situations in one convenient pack; making it easy to use the right tool for the job. Having a three pack variety of choke tubes in your blind bag is one fantastic way to ensure you are ready for whatever the hunting situation calls for.

Close Range Choke Tube

Close Range Hunts

Hunting waterfowl in at close range can produce heart pounding action that is tough to beat. Mallards cupped up and dropping into a small riffle on a frozen river, Canadian geese cruising in fully committed, and ducks dropping into flooded timber are all exhilarating hunts at close range. Targets on close range hunts are generally presented 30 yards and closer, sometimes much closer. It’s critical to select a close range choke for these in your face hunts to be most effective.

Patterning Close Range

To learn how your shotgun patterns a choke and load, take a shot at a paper target with a 15” circular bullseye on a 30” piece of cardboard or paper stock. From a steady rest with a close range, or cylinder (.000 constriction) choke in the shotgun, count the hits on target to determine the effectiveness of the choke tube and shotshell combo. Tweaking variables like shot size and shotshell brand can have an affect on the results. Now that you know what to expect when you’re on target at close range with the appropriate choke, it’s time to try mid range.

Mid Range Choke Tube

Mid Range Hunts

For most of waterfowl hunting, targets are engaged at mid range. Mallards trying to land just outside the decoys, a group of geese making several low passes, or teal fanning up 35 yards from the blind are all real hunting scenarios. Making the most of your shotgun pattern at mid range is critical to the hunt and your success. By taking the time to pattern your shotgun with the ammo you plan to hunt with paired with a mid range choke tube, you will know exactly how your shotgun will perform on target.

Patterning Mid Range

For waterfowl hunters, an improved cylinder (.010) is ideal for mid range targets.

Patterning an improved cylinder choke is the same process as patterning a close range choke tube, but with a new choke. Position a clean target at 35 yards to simulate hunting at mid range and take a shot from a steady rest. Count the number of pellets on target to determine the choke and load effectiveness. It will be easy to see the pattern has tightened up from the shotgun in the improved cylinder tube, this tightening puts more pellets on target at a longer range.

Long Range Choke Tube

Long Range Hunts

Some days the birds just won’t work like you want them to. The fact is, hunting waterfowl can be tough, and you have to take the shots that are available. Whether you find yourself having to take passing shots at birds coming off a lake, or the birds just won’t commit to your decoys; sometimes you have to take those longer shots. Having the right choke in your shotgun for those long shot hunts is more critical than ever, and patterning your shotgun to understand your effective range will give you the confidence to call the shot.

Long Range Patterning

A long range choke constricts the shot pattern to an even higher degree than close or mid range chokes. Modified (.020) chokes work well for long range shots at waterfowl. The process for patterning a long range choke is the same as a close or mid range choke, but at a further distance. Practice shooting your desired hunting load at 40 yards and beyond to see how your pattern holds together, and to realize your effective range.

Duck and goose hunting is a ton of fun, and a fantastic way to enjoy the late season outdoors. Waterfowling offers amazing opportunities for fellowship with friends, and is an ideal way to introduce young people to the outdoors and the hunting way of life. When you head out to the duck blind, goose pit, or marsh this season; make sure all your gear is in order, and that you’ve got the right choke for the job screwed into your shotgun. Selecting the right choke tube will help you put more shots on target, and bring home more limits.

We reviewed and tested over 25 compasses and found that the Sunnto MC-2 is the best survival compass.

A compass needs to do a lot more than just point North to be considered a good compass for survival. With so many options out there called “survival compasses”, it is hard to know what to choose.

Our buying guide explains what to look for in a survival compass and how the Sunnto MC-2 is the perfect choice – not only as the best survival compass but also the best for any other outdoor activity when getting lost is a possibility.

I have over 40 years of experience using compasses and purchased my first Silva baseplate compass when I was 10 years old in Boy Scouts. My family has a combined 40 years of military experience using compasses, with one of them being a navigator. My grandfather was a pipeline surveyor, and I have his 1940s model compass.

So, we have used a few compasses over the years.

I based this review on our experience and also the experience of other experts that teach wilderness navigation classes. Our goal is to present the best survival compass available that can help you get to safety (or away from harm) in an emergency.

If you need a compass to get from A to B while hiking, bushcraft camping, or just in case you face a survival situation, keep reading.

Quick Comparison of our Favorite Survival Compasses

Best Survival Compass

Suunto MC-2 – The Best Survival Compass

• Type: Orienteering Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 2.5” x 4” x .7”
• Weight: 2.6 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent Marks

The Suunto MC-2 Compass is our top pick for the best compass for survival.

This compass has all of the features I need to navigate a survival situation. It is a sighting compass that I have used to keep me traveling in a straight line over long distances. I can simply sight an object in the distance at the correct bearing and hike to that object. After reaching that object, repeat the process.

The mirror is great to have in case I need to signal for help or for personal first aid.

I like the fact that this compass is also a baseplate compass for use with topographical maps. I have the USGS version of this compass, and my maps are USGS scale maps. This allows me to measure distances easily on a map without having to do any math. Even if you don’t have USGS maps, the inch ruler is universal for other maps.

The built-in declination adjustment is excellent as well. I can simply read the adjustment on the map and then turn the adjustment screw on the back of the compass. I like that a small adjustment tool is included and attached to the lanyard, so I never have to look for a screwdriver.

The baseplate also has a magnifying lens, which I have used to see small details on my maps and to start fires.

A clinometer and a slope ruler are also built into this compass. While I personally don’t usually need these features, I have them.

I also like that the bezel has all 8 directions printed on it (N, NE, E, SE, S, SW, W, NW), as well as degrees. This makes it easy to use since you don’t have to remember the bearing for E or W in a stressful situation.

When ordering one, there may be some confusion about which configuration to get. I personally recommend the Northern Hemisphere version with USGS UTM scales (which is linked above.)

This compass has everything that I need in a compass. Many other survivalists and outdoorsmen also agree. It is affordable, so there is no reason not to recommend it.

Recommended for:

The Sunnto MC-2 Compass is the best compass for any outdoor activity. It is especially suited as the best compass for survival situations. If you only plan to buy one compass, get this one.

Suunto MCB Mini Compass – Best Backup Survival Compass

• Type: Mini Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 2.2” x 2.68” x 0.7”
• Weight: 1.27 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: No
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: No

The Suunto MCB Mini Compass is a compact mirror sighting compass that is a great backup compass to keep in your pack, vehicle, or boat. Sunnto calls it their “Safety Compass”, so it was designed to be a backup to your primary compass.

This compass is similar to what I call an orienteering compass, except it does not have a clear baseplate.

It does not have declination adjustment or a magnification lens either, so mapping capabilities with this compass are somewhat limited.

It has a straight edge on the sides with mm and 1/20 scales, so you can use it with a map if necessary.

The lanyard has a built-in whistle, which, combined with the mirror that can be used for signaling, makes this a great multiuse survival tool.

The Lid folds down to make an excellent compact package that will fit almost anywhere. While not the best primary compass, it does make a great backup. If you ever find yourself in a situation where you may not believe your primary compass, a backup will help you verify your doubts. Peace of mind is cheap.

Recommended for:

The Suunto MCB Mini Compass is for someone looking for a backup survival compass for their pack, vehicle, or boat. If you do not venture out very far, it makes a good backup for a GPS unit as well.

Cammenga US Military Compass – Most Durable Survival Compass

• Type: Lensatic Compass
• Size: 2.25″ x 3″ x 1.1″ (closed)
• Weight: 16 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: No
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Tritium

The Cammenga US Military Compass is the same as the government issue M-1950 compass for the military.

The biggest benefit of this compass is it is very durable and battle-tested. If you are concerned about damaging your compass, this is the most durable compass available.

Our team has seen this compass dropped over a cliff and ran over during military operations. Afterward, it still functioned fine. Simply put, we have seen it survive tough times.

I feel that using this compass is not as straightforward as a mirror compass. However, using this compass is second nature if you are military-trained.

It does not have a mirror, so this is a disadvantage from a survival perspective. While it does have a magnifying lens for sighting, it is not strong enough to start a fire.

The tritium inserts are great and will stay illuminated for years. This makes this compass the best on our list for navigating at night.

This compass can be used with maps. However, using it is a little different from traditional baseplate map compasses. Again, anyone that is military-trained will not have an issue. It does not have a declination adjustment, so you will have to consider it in your bearing calculations.

Recommended for:

The Cammenga US Military Compass is for anyone who has had military training and is comfortable using this compass. It is also very durable, so if you are hard on your equipment, this is one to consider. For people that are not military trained or understand compasses very well, this is not the best choice for a survival compass.

Silva Ranger 2.0 Compass

• Type: Orienteering Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: Approx 4” x 2.5” x 1”
• Weight: 4.8 Ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent Marks

The Silva Ranger 2.0 Compass is a mirror-sighting compass with all the features I look for.

It has a sighting mirror to sight objects in the distance for traveling in a straight line. It has a clear baseplate for use with maps and a magnifying lens to start fires if needed.

I like the fact that it has multiple map scales printed on it. In my experience, you come across different maps with various scales, so a compass with multiple scales is great.

The lanyard also has map scales marked on it. Since the lanyard is flexible, you can lay it on a map and bend it around curves for more accurate distance measurement. This is great if you want to know the distance you will travel on a curvy hiking trail.

There are a few things that I do not like about this compass. The bezel only has degrees and no directions like the Suunto MC-2. During a stressful situation, it could be hard to remember the bearing for East, for example.

I also don’t care for the shape of the baseplate. It is curved on the ends and not straight, which makes it more challenging to line up on a map.

The lid of this compass seems just too large to me. It is noticeably larger than the Suunto. Also, the compass does not have a tool for adjusting the declination.

I have owned Silva compasses for over 40 years, so I am a fan. Unfortunately, they moved manufacturing to China in 2005, which is another negative for me.

Recommended for:

The Silva Ranger 2.0 Compass is for anyone looking for a survival compass, and our top pick is unavailable. If you are an avid hiker, the lanyard is convenient when mapping out a hike.

Brunton TruArc 15 Compass

• Type: Orienteering Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 4” x 2.5” x 0.6”
• Weight: 3.2 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: No

The Brunton TruArc 15 Compass is made in the USA and checks all of our boxes in what is needed in a compass for survival.

It has a sighting mirror, magnifying lens, and a baseplate with USGS scales. I like the three scales on the baseplate. It has a 1:24,000 scale for miles, meters, and feet. This makes it easy to measure any distance you want on a map. The only downside is you must have a USGS map to use it without doing any math.

This compass has a global needle as a standard. This makes it nice if you want to travel near the equator or to the southern hemisphere with this compass. It also has a built-in clinometer and toolless declinometer adjustment. While the toolless design sounds good, many people have issues adjusting it.

There are a few negatives with this compass. The bezel is set up in reverse from most other compasses and has a magnifying window over the bearing markings. If you practice and exclusively use this compass, it may not be a problem. But, with most other compasses being the opposite, it is very confusing to learn from someone with a different compass.

Sighting with the compass is also not intuitive. It is easier to see the bearing marks at the top of the bezel through the mirror. When you read the bearing this way, it is 180 degrees off and does not align with the “shed” markings on the baseplate. This just makes it confusing to me.

Recommended for:

The Brunton TruArc 15 Compass is for someone looking for a made-in-the-USA compass. It fits all of our criteria for a survival compass but is not as easy to use as others.

Sunnto MB-6 Compass

• Type: Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 2.6” x 1.85” x 0.9”
• Weight: 1.94 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent marks

The Sunnto MB-6 Compass is a unique compass that folds into a metal matchbox-style box. This makes it very durable and compact.

This compass has a mirror that folds down underneath it when you open it. It has gun sight-type sights on the top that you can use to sight targets in the distance. It is a little different than most mirror compasses but works similarly.

The main advantage of this compass is how compact it is. If folds up into a nice box that will fit into your pocket.

The main disadvantage is this compass is it can’t be used with maps. You will need a separate baseplate compass if you need to do any map work. However, it does have declination adjustment, so this will help when translating bearings from your mapping compass.

While I can’t consider this compass the best for most people, it should be considered for someone who doesn’t like the standard orienteering compass and doesn’t plan to use maps.

Recommended for:

The Sunnto MB-6 Compass is for someone who wants a rugged, compact, and durable survival compass and does not plan to use a map. This is a great backup compass for a hiker or a boater.

Silva Mini Compass

• Type: Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 1.6” x 1.86” x 0.8”
• Weight: 1.6 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: No
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent marks

The Silva Mini Compass is a small mirror sighting compass that is very compact. It is the smallest compass on our list. It is also the cheapest.

This compass should only be considered a backup compass. It is compact and lightweight, so it is a great choice for a backpacker or hiker when weight is a concern.

It does have a mirror, which is unusual for such a small compass. It is also affordable, so keeping a backup won’t blow your budget.

It is made from thinner plastic, so it is not the most durable compass.

You could use this compass with a map if you had to, but since it is so small it is not easy. It does have an inch scale on one side.

This compass made it to my list because it has a mirror and is very small. You can stick this in a small survival kit; it will be good enough to help you travel in a straight line when you have no other option.

Recommended for:

The Silva Mini Compass is for someone looking for a small, compact mirror compass for their survival kit. This should not be considered your main compass for survival situations but rather an emergency backup.

Best Compass for Survival – Buying Guide

To select the best survival compass, it is essential to understand a few basics about compasses. Don’t just buy any cheap compass advertised for “survival.”

There are a few different types of compasses. Some are good in a survival situation, and some are not. Below we will discuss the differences, and then we will put it all together so you can decide which is the best for you.

Price

While, usually, you can find an excellent lower-priced option for most survival gear, this is not the case for a compass. As they say, “You get what you pay for.”

Stay away from anything that is under $25. These are cheap inferior copies. Most cheap compasses are inaccurate and are more difficult to use.

If you just want something to play with, cheap is fine, but a survival compass should not be something you just play with. Since your life depends on it, it needs to work correctly.

Brand

A reputable company should make your survival compass. I found many cheap knockoffs with strange brand names that are made in China. While they look like the more expensive compasses, they are different.

Cheap compasses are made from inferior materials that are simply not reliable. The needles can be inconsistent between readings, causing you to travel in the wrong direction. While a small error is negligible, it really adds up over a long distance.

Stay with these reputable brands:

• Suunto has been making compasses in Finland for over 80 years. Their specialty is compasses, and they are continually updating their processes to make their products more accurate and durable. They include a lifetime warranty and make some of the best compasses available.
• Cammenga is a US-based company that has been making the military’s standard issue M-1950 lensatic compass since 1992. They must meet all the military standards in their processes so their products are top-notch.
• Silva began in Sweden and made their first compass in 1928. They made compasses in Sweden until 2005, when they moved production to China. Since then, they have been bought and sold a few times. Since 2018 they have re-established themselves as a Swedish company. However, their manufacturing facilities are still in China. Their quality has improved in the past few years.
• Brunton is a US-based company that was founded in 1895. They began by making a pocket transit that was used by surveyors that included a compass and clinometer. It was often just called a “Brunton.” In 1996, they were acquired by Silva but were sold in 2006 and again in 2009 to another Swedish company. Manufacturing is still done today at its Riverton, Wyoming facility.

Different Types of Compasses

There are a few different types of compasses, each with a specific purpose. This is where it gets confusing when buying a compass.

First, we will review each type of compass.

Button

A button compass is what the name suggests. It is a small compass, not much bigger than a button. They are usually around 1” in diameter and are circular with no other baseplate or cover.

A button compass gives you an overall direction with no absolute accuracy. If you want to move North, it will give you a general Northerly direction.

These compasses cannot be used with a map, and they cannot be used to sight a bearing accurately.

While one of these is better than nothing, there are ways to determine the overall direction of the environment. The location of the sun, the moon, and moss on trees and rocks can tell you which way North is more reliably than a cheap button compass. Don’t waste your money.

Baseplate

A baseplate compass is a circular compass mounted to a thin rectangular base plate. The baseplate is usually a clear plastic.

Baseplate compasses are designed to be used with maps to determine bearings and distances. They will have a ruler or scale printed on the side to measure distance on a map. They will also have a rotating bezel that is used to measure a heading between points on a map.

While these compasses will show you a bearing, they do not have any type of sighting mechanism. These can be used to navigate somewhat when there are prominent landmarks to follow. However, if there are no prominent landmarks or you do not know where you are, they will not be accurate enough to travel in a straight line.

Lensatic

A Lensatic compass is a circular compass inside a case with a lid and a sighting device. An excellent example of a Lensatic compass is the standard military M-1950 compass.

These are used to sight objects or landmarks in the distance so that an accurate bearing can be determined or followed. These compasses are the best for traveling in a specific direction and allow you to move in a straight line.

While they are not specifically made to use with maps, some have a flat base that can be used with a map when opened.

Transit Compass

While not as popular today with GPS and modern electronics, a transit compass is used by surveyors and map makers. These compasses are usually 3 inches or so in diameter, have a metal case and lid, and are very accurate and expensive.

While you can’t find many of these sold new today, they are often sold as antiques. I have one from the 1930s that was my grandfather’s. He used it to survey while installing pipelines.

Orienteering or Mirror Sighting Compass

The term orienteering compass is often used a lot for baseplate compasses. This is likely a marketing tactic since it sounds “cooler.”

An orienteering compass or mirror sighting compass looks similar to a baseplate compass. However, it has a top-hinged cover that has a mirror. It also has a gun sight-type feature that allows you to sight objects in the distance.

An orienteering compass can be used the same as a baseplate compass for determining direction and distance on a map. It can also be used like a Lensatic compass to sight objects in the distance accurately.

This type of compass is usually the best overall since it combines the baseplate and Lensatic compass.

Parts of a Compass

Understanding the parts of a compass is critical before purchasing one. Below, we will step through each feature while referencing this diagram.

Needles

The needle is the heart of the compass. Compass needles will have two sides, one painted red or another color and the other painted black. The painted side of the needle points to “magnetic North.”

Some compasses have two types of needles available. The most common in the US is called ” Northern Hemisphere” or just “NH.” The other type is “Global.” If there is no indication, they are usually NH needles.

Since the Earth is curved, the magnetic field is different depending on where you are on the planet. If you are in the northern hemisphere, a compass needle is attracted to the poles at a different angle than in the southern hemisphere.

Since the needle floats around its center inside a capsule on the compass, you have to hold the compass level so it is free to rotate.

So, a compass with a needle tuned for the Northern Hemisphere will need to be held at an angle to rotate in the Southern Hemisphere freely. This makes it challenging to use on a flat surface.

In the US, both NH needles and Global needles will work. Global needles have more room for the needle to tilt inside the compass.

While some say that Global needles are better since you can walk and still use the compass, I am not sure who is trying to hike in the woods without watching where they go. This is the same as texting and driving. You cannot accurately use a compass, not trip over your feet, and track landmarks simultaneously.

Global needle compasses are more expensive than NH compasses, so again, this is just a marketing ploy to get you to spend more money on something you don’t need.

Unless you plan to travel to the Southern Hemisphere (that’s a long hike), an NH compass will work fine for you.

Rotating Bezel

A rotating bezel is needed to measure and follow bearings. Make sure your compass bezel has markings in degrees from 0 to 360. Some military compasses are marked in Mils, which is not helpful unless you were trained in the military.

Also, make sure your compass bezel is at least marked with “N” to indicate North. While North is basically 0 degrees, having this on the bezel is better so you don’t get confused in a stressful situation. The best compasses have N, S, E, and W marked for clarity.

Declination Adjustment

Declination is a complicated subject that could be its own article.

There are basically three directions for North depending on your reference point. There is true North, magnetic North, and grid North. Maps are a flat representation of a curved surface.

The declination adjustment is printed on the map to make up for the differences between the North direction on a map and the magnetic North that your compass reads. This adjustment will be different depending on where you are on the earth.

A compass with declination adjustment makes it easy to adjust for this difference and measure bearings accurately on the map. If your compass does not have a declination adjustment, you can still use it, but you must add or subtract the declination from every measurement you take.

Having built-in declination adjustment on your compass is the best and makes calculating bearings easier.

Orienting Lines

The best baseplate and orienteering compasses will have orienting lines printed on the baseplate so you can line them up accurately on the map. Aligning the grid lines on a map is an essential first step to measuring bearings.

They will also have what is often called a “shed” or “doghouse” printed behind the needle. This area visually indicates where the compass arrow should be when you are taking or measuring a bearing.

It is often said to “put red in the shed” or “put the dog in the doghouse” as a way to remember how to align the compass needle.

Needle Chamber

Most newer compasses (except the Military compasses) have a liquid-filled needle chamber. The liquid in the chamber helps to dampen the amount of movement the needle makes. It makes it smoother and quicker to get an accurate reading.

Cheaper compasses will not have a liquid-filled chamber, and the needle will constantly move around as you hold it. This makes it hard to get an accurate bearing since the needle constantly moves.

Over time, bubbles can form in the chamber (like in my 40-year-old Silva). This does not affect the compass’s accuracy but makes it harder to use since you must wait for the needle to stabilize. If the bubble is over 25% of the chamber, it is time to get a new compass. My Silva has been officially retired.

Clinometer

Some compasses will have a built-in Clinometer. This is used to measure the slopes of hills. Surveyors and map makers used this tool to do their work historically. Today with modern GPS devices, they are no longer used much.

There is no need for a Clinometer on your survival compass, either.

Scales

The scale printed on your baseplate or orienteering compass can be confusing. This is used for measuring the distance on a map.

Most compasses come with at least inches or centimeters printed on the baseplate. At a minimum, this, along with the scale printed on the map, can always be used to measure distance on a map. You could use a piece of string if you had to.

Most topographical maps today come with a standard scale. USGS maps are always 1:24,000 scale. Some compasses, like our top pick, come with a variety of scale options available.

If you know the type of map you have, try to match your compass with your map. For example, if you have a USGS map, get a USGS compass. This will just make it easier to take distance measurements. Otherwise, just use the typical inch or centimeter ruler that comes on all baseplate compasses.

Glow in the Dark Marks

A compass with luminescent or Tritium markings glows in the dark, making using your compass at night much easier. Tritium is the best and will usually last for at least ten years. Luminescent paint has to be “charged” by sunlight or a flashlight and will glow for a few hours afterward. Some glow better than others.

Either way, some glow-in-the-dark markings are nice but not essential.

Sighting Lens or Mirror

A Lensatic compass will have a sighting lens, while an Orienteering compass will have a mirror.

When using a Lensatic compass, you hold it close to your face. As you focus on an object in the distance through the sighting window, you can look down without moving and see the needle and the markings on the bezel through the lens. Since everyone’s eyesight is different, the position of the lens may have to be adjusted. You may also need to remove your glasses depending on your eyesight.

When using an orienteering compass, you hold it extended away from your face, much like a handgun. As you focus on a distant object through the sighting window, you can adjust the mirror to see the needle and bezel.

Essentially, the mirror and lens are accomplishing the same thing in different ways. In my experience, the mirror works best and is easier to use.

What makes a good Compass for Survival?

To find the best compass for survival, you must first determine what the compass will be used for.

The main items to focus on are:

• Assist with traveling in a straight line over a long distance.
• Be able to find a position and navigate with a map.
• Have multiple other uses like signaling and fire starting.

Lateral Drift

First and foremost, a survival compass must assist you with traveling in a straight line for a long distance. Everyone experiences what is called “lateral drift” while they are walking without a clear target in the distance.

When you are in the woods, and all the trees look the same, you tend to walk toward your dominant side without realizing it. This is why you hear of lost people walking in one big circle.

To walk in a straight line, we need a compass that allows us to sight targets in the distance to walk towards. This can only be accomplished with a Lensatic or orienteering compass.

Map Navigation

A survival compass should be able to be used with a map. Finding your way to safety or around hazardous locations is one of the main objectives in a survival situation.

Even while bushcraft camping, navigation is an essential bushcraft skill that could be used to find a body of water to fish or a location to hunt. It would then help you find your way back to camp.

To navigate with a map, a baseplate or orienteering compass is needed. Some Lensatic compasses can also be used with a map.

Multi-Use

For any piece of survival gear, it should have multiple uses to be considered. We are limited in how much gear we can carry in a survival kit, bug-out bag, or get-home bag, so each item must be valuable.

An Orienteering compass has a mirror. Mirrors can be a signaling device to others in the air or on the ground. They can also be used for hygiene or to see areas on your body that you can’t usually see for first aid.

A baseplate compass and an orienteering compass also have a magnifying lens. A magnifying lens can be used to start a fire with the sun. This massive advantage over the other compasses should not be ignored. It is very easy to practice starting a fire with a magnifying lens before you need it. While you should have a fire starting kit, this is a resource that never runs out except on a cloudy day.

Best Survival Compass

Considering these factors, the best compass for survival is an orienteering compass like our top pick, the Suunto MC2. It has all the criteria needed in a survival compass.

Most people that are using a compass are doing it because they are traveling in a remote area. An argument could be made that all compasses are survival compasses. Before buying a cheap compass to take hiking or camping, this should be considered. If you get lost, was saving a few dollars worth it?

A good survival compass is essential for any survival kit or as a backup to a GPS unit or survival watch. Learning how to use a compass to navigate is similarly just as important. There are many books, classes, and courses available on navigation. I recommend purchasing a map and practicing with your compass before venturing out on a long hike.

The best way to avoid a survival situation is to never get in one to start with.

Video Guide to the Best Survival Compass

Dave Canterbury discusses the best compass for bushcraft and survival.

What is the Best Compass for You?

I see many recommending cheap baseplate compasses as the best compass for survival. After understanding the criteria above, would you consider one? It is not practical to try and constantly watch a compass while walking through the woods, trying to get to safety. This will only get you more lost or, even worse, injured.

The best compass for survival is the Sunnto MC2, without question. Its features, quality, and ease of use are ahead of competitors. In my experience, it is also the best compass for hiking, bushcraft, camping, hunting, and any other outdoor activity. There is no reason to own a different compass.

Now that you have the best compass, look at our other survival guides and gear reviews. As you build out your survival kit, we have you covered no matter the outdoor activity.

The link between where you are likely to find a buck’s shed antlers and where you are likely to shoot that buck in the fall is way overrated.

In winter when a buck’s antlers are dropping, his life revolves around finding the best quality food to replenish his body after the peak rut period. Bucks will be worn down from fighting, chasing and breeding does, and the weather. Bucks also will seek the best cover for security and protection. These are the keys to finding where he spends his time.

If you are going to find a buck’s shed antlers, these two main areas are where you should concentrate your efforts.

High-Carb Foods

Winter is a rough time for whitetail bucks. They are run down from the rigors of the rut and they need energy to fight off the cold. Foods high in carbohydrates provide quick energy and can easily be stored as fat. The buck’s stomach tells him what he needs to eat and he seeks it out. Corn and soybeans are buck magnets in the winter for this very reason. Find the right foods and you’ll find where the deer are concentrated.

Windblown Hilltops

When the snow gets deep, food can be hard to find, but the tops of hills provide areas where the snow is blown off and the food is easier to access. This is where the deer will feed. My first set of matching Boone & Crockett sheds were found 200 yards apart; one on top of a windblown hill in soybean stubble and the other in thick cover at the edge of the field.

Related: When do deer shed their antlers?

Thermal Bedding Cover

I divide the bedding areas into two categories, the first is thermal cover and it’s usually the snarliest, nasty thicket within a quarter mile of the food source. This is where the deer bed when the weather is windy, the snow is blowing or it’s overcast. Thermal bedding cover is often in creek bottoms where the deer can get out of the elements.

Solar Bedding Cover

Solar cover is the type of bedding area the deer will use on sunny days. The southern slopes of hills with open canopy of trees provide them with a place they can see in front of them and smell what’s behind them. They will lie in the openings where the sun’s warming rays can hit them.

As the sun moves across the sky they will get up and move out of the shade. The more they move, the more they are likely to drop an antler. South slopes experience earlier snowmelt, allowing the shed hunter a chance to go picking when snow is still covering other areas.

Trail Troubles

The fifth spot seems obvious at first; the deer bed and the deer feed, so look to the trails where these areas connect. But there are high-percentage spots even on the trails. Some of my most consistent shed producers are where the deer leap over a ditch, and where they jump the fences surrounding crop fields. This can be just what it takes to jar a loose antler completely off. Areas with heavy overhanging cover can be hotspots for bone collecting too.

Pay attention to where the deer are spending most of their time in the winter, and spend your time looking in these places. You’ll find more antlers per mile by doing so.

Related: Find the shed antlers, find the deer

Related: Train your dog to find shed antlers

Bob Humphrey

Varying your calling through the season could earn you a successful date with a big gobbler this spring.

Turkey behavior, including how they call and how they respond to calls has a certain chronology to it. While there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to turkeys, there are some generalities that seem to hold true more often than not.

How to Call to Early-Season Turkeys

The earliest hunting seasons begin sometime between when winter flocks break-up and toms start gathering their harems. It’s a confusing time for turkeys and turkey hunters, but one thing that usually holds true is the birds are very vocal; and you should be too. One good tactic, which may come in handy later as well, is to aggravate the boss hen. If you get her mouthing off, it will fire up all the males within hearing, especially those naive two-year-olds that can be downright suicidal. Match her note for note, especially if you notice her call getting louder and more aggressive. And enjoy this while it lasts because once the toms have a hen or two in their hand, they’ll quickly lose interest in the other birds in the bush. Fighting purrs work well at this, too, as there’s still a lot of jousting for dominance.

How to Call to Mid-Season Turkeys

Unless they travel, most folks don’t get to enjoy the very early season because most turkey hunting seasons begin after most of the hens have bred. By then, toms have become accustomed to hens coming to them rather than the other way around. Dominant birds at least have what they want and can be tougher to call. Still, some subtler calling will sometimes work, especially on subordinate or satellite toms.

But again, be subtle. Those sub-dominant toms are interested in hens but also wary of getting their butts kicked by a more dominant bird. Another generality that will get stronger as the season progresses is that your calling may be more effective later in the morning and later in the day. Early morning is a hustle and bustle of harems, but as the hens gradually peel off to breed, lonely longbeards become more vulnerable. Birds venture farther from the roost and so should you. Troll along, calling loudly every so often until you get a response. Then park your carcass and tone down your calling, leaving longer periods between calling bouts to build the suspense.

How to Call to Late-Season Turkeys

As hunting and breeding seasons wind down hunters have to literally step up their game. You may have to walk for miles trying to locate a late season gobbler. Once you do, it’s time to go “old school” with your calling. The old adage that says, “yelp three times on a box call, then wait an hour,” is not too far off, though I prefer a slate, and can only wait about 20-30 minutes before calling or moving again. Some old males have all but lost interest in hens and about the only way to trick them is to lie in ambush around feeding areas or trying a little guy talk in the form of deep, raspy gobbler yelps.

Any Time

Regardless of what stage of the season you’re in, it’s still crucial to “taking a turkey’s temperature before serenading your quarry.” Give a few calls and see how a gobbler reacts. If he booms back and cuts you off you can really pour it on; be aggressive. If he responds but seems tentative, play it cool and aloof. And if he packs up and moves away you should do so as well. go find another turkey to hunt and leave the uncooperative one for a later hour or another day. Always remember, be patient when hunting turkeys.

Some years back, I was invited to hunt rabbits with a group of dedicated houndsmen who loved to run (and shoot) rabbits with their beagles. The day had been a relative success with our group scoring on about 18 rabbits for the day. For my personal efforts, I had managed to pull the trigger on a small number of the critters, missing a couple and accounting for a few in the final bag. The hunt had reminded me how enjoyable a small-game hunt can be—no stressed strategizing to score on the biggest racked trophy around or overly tactical effort like calling a longbeard to the gun—just trying to nab game as it appeared for the sake of shooting and adding to the bag limit. The whole experience left me wanting more.

The problem was, I didn’t have a pack of beagles. But I knew some places where I had frequently seen rabbits, both on my farm and my brother’s, so I decided to set off for some brush with a shotgun stoked with No. 6s draped across the crook of my arm. The results were surprising. While I didn’t bag as many rabbits on that first solo effort due to some tricky shooting, I scared up a lot more than I had expected. The effort opened up a new world of hunting to me. With rabbit season where I live running well into February, long after most other seasons have closed, it’s a great opportunity to grab another day or two of time outdoors and, with a little effort, enjoy a bit of exercise that typically results in more meat for stews or to accompany a side dish of risotto.

Whether you’re hunting solo or with a buddy or two, hunting rabbits without hounds is a relatively simple affair with good odds for success. Rabbits are abundant anywhere wild cover is available, meaning you are almost certain to find game. Here’s how to score on your own rabbit adventures.

Find ‘Em FirstRabbits don’t travel far between cover and food so one of the best places to find them is in thick, brushy areas right next to where they like to eat—open grassy areas with clovers and broadleaf weeds, or crop fields that have been planted in soybeans, peanuts, wheat, alfalfa and the like. Brushy patches of blackberries, honeysuckle, blueberry and other viney, tangled brush provide great cover for animals where they can feed without fear of being nabbed by avian predators. Brushy ditches and fencerows through fields, as well as brush piles and windrows, also provide excellent havens.

In the deep winter chill, brushy areas on south-facing slopes (or in flat-land the side of cover facing the sun) can be more productive, as rabbits will slip to the edge of their hideout and sun themselves for warmth.

In many areas where deer hunters have worked to establish lush, green plots to attract whitetails, you’ll find the overgrown edges bordering these deer magnets will also harbor a nice population of bunnies. The brushier the borders around these open areas, the better. Rabbits will also grow thick in overgrown clearcuts that have repopulated with small saplings that provide abundant twigs and bark for rabbits to chew on.

Gearing UpIt doesn’t take much to pull off a rabbit hunt, but a few key items will certainly make it more successful and comfortable for you. Some guys are content to sit at field edges at dawn or dusk, looking to snipe a few targets as they appear to feed, and for that, a precision-scoped .22 is ideal. This is a fine way to hunt them that will definitely produce, but after a season of sitting in a stand for whitetails, I personally don’t want to sit and wait for rabbits. I want to go after them and kick them up, which means using the scattergun. A 12-gauge remains the most versatile game gun for any sportsman, and without a doubt, serves the rabbit hunter ably, but I prefer a lighter, more compact 20-gauge for tromping brush and swinging in cover. The smaller, well-pointed charge, loaded with No. 6 shot is more than ample for rabbits.

Because you will likely be traipsing through thick, briar-laced cover to kick these creatures into the open, your legs will take some abuse. For this, a good pair of vinyl-faced brush pants or heavy chaps are a must, along with light, but durable boots with leather or Cordura uppers for walking. I like an old-style canvas upland game jacket too, with a lined nylon game pouch built into the rear for toting a brace as you collect the small treasures. A small backpack can also do the trick for keeping your hands free for more shooting.

When hunting with others, safety orange vests and/or hats are a really good idea, too, since hunters are generally obscured by the thick cover in which rabbits are found, yet are in close proximity to each other while hunting them.

Walk ‘Em UpMy favorite and most productive hunts are in spots where the brush is no more than waist-high and surrounded by relatively open ground that a bolting rabbit has to cross for an exposed shot. With your shotgun at the ready, simply plunge in and slowly walk a zigzag pattern—keeping your eyes alert for flashes of brown—and listen for scurrying ahead of you. Pause frequently, creating an almost herky-jerky approach that will leave rabbits guessing which way you are about to go and making them nervous. A nervous rabbit is one ready to move. I like to walk slowly for about 10 to 15 paces and then pause 20 to 30 seconds before moving on. This seems to work well. When working overgrown cutovers, look for areas that are no more than two to three years old. More than that, and they will be so grown up that while they’ll harbor plenty of rabbits, seeing and shooting them may be next to impossible.

A hunter can walk plenty of rabbit-rich brush, but if it is so thick he can’t see more than a few feet in front of him, then it will be a lot of wasted effort. Like the smaller patches of brush and tangles of honeysuckle and briars I prefer to hit, other good spots that offer the perfect blend between hideout and visibility include fencerows and ditches in fields as well as brush piles pushed up at the edge of open woods. Whether hunting rabbits or other species, I try to note these high-production spots throughout the season and return to them time and again when hunting for rabbits.

If hunting with partners, take turns with one guy working brush in this manner, while the others post slightly ahead, repositioning quietly and frequently as you progress. When hunting in pairs, hunters can also flank each other, standing 15 to 20 yards apart depending on the amount of brush they’re working, and alternate walking ahead of each other and pausing.

Hunting rabbits is really no more difficult than that—its simplicity in approach and execution, a big part of what makes it so much fun.

The most iconic image of America’s nineteenth-century westward expansion is that of the cowboy. Hardworking, tougher than nails, and full of grit, cowboys worked as ranch hands for large cattle and sheep ranches in the out stretching American west. Besides taking care of the everyday keep of the ranch, cowboys were also hired to herd the wealthy rancher’s livestock long distances and at times through wild and dangerous country to the city markets to be sold.

Because of the rough lifestyle and often harsh conditions they lived in, cowboys had to depend on certain tools and equipment to not only get their work done, but in many instances, to survive. Some of these tools have become a part of the cowboy’s iconic image. A good horse and a comfortable saddle; an accurate and trusty rifle or hand gun—and for a few, both; a sharp and well-built knife, good boots, and his bedroll.

The cowboy bedroll was, although simplistic, a significant item in western culture. A cowboy’s bedroll served multiple purposes: such as a trunk to store his personal items, a safe box, a seat while eating, and of course a bed.

The cowboy bedroll was very portable, and extremely practical for the lifestyle cowboys lived, it was also one of the very few comforts a cowboy had, especially while out on the trail. While traveling it could easily be slung over the shoulder if walking or strapped to the back his saddle if solo. While on a drive, it would be thrown into the back of the bed wagon where it could easily be retrieved at the end of the day. While at ranch headquarters it could be unrolled on the floor or a bunk in the bunk house.

What is a Cowboy Bedroll?

The make-up and design of the classic cowboy bedroll was simple; wool blankets or bedding wrapped in a canvas tarp that usually had buckles or ties that would connect the two canvas flaps together. The bedroll could then be rolled up and strapped tight with a rope or leather strap or belt.

The cowboy bedroll was in many ways a precursor for the modern day sleeping bag. Some versions had a strap to allowed it to be carried over the shoulder. The canvas tarp was meant to provide protection from bad weather. If it rained, the canvas added a layer of protection, attempting to kept them dry and warm. This is only true, however, if the canvas was waterproofed with a combination of beeswax and linseed oil. If it wasn’t, your protection against wet weather was limited.

It is true that traditional canvas will swell and hold out water, but once it is touched from the inside it will begin to wick moister through to the inside, thus defeating the purpose for a canvas covering.

In snowy weather, the canvas would allow the cowboy to stay dry and warm, and at the same time the accumulated snow would provide an insulated layer. If the weather was warm and nice the canvas tarp could be flapped open, allowing him to enjoy the cool night are while at the same time providing a ground cloth.

Improving on the Timeless Cowboy Bedroll

It is unclear when and where the bedroll concept was first conceived. One thing is for sure, however, bedrolls have been around for a very long time, and have been used in a large variety of places and circumstances. Forty-niners used them throughout the gold rush. Soldiers used them during the American Civil War.

They have been popular in Australia for many years and come in many shapes and sizes. In Australia they are called a swag, or a swag bag. In many ways the Australian swag bag has lost the simplicity and convenience of the traditional cowboy bedroll and have at this point morphed into what most people would view as a one-man tent. Although the swag is smaller than most tents, it acts as one since you don’t keep your gear in it roll it up. This for most people destroys the point. One could argue that you might as well use a tent.

You may be wondering how Canvas Cutter has improved upon the functionality, protective qualities and durability of the traditional cowboy bedroll without destroying the simplistic nature and its convenient features.

We at Canvas Cutter follow the KIS rule or “Keep It Simple”. The design and function of the traditional cowboy bedroll is already good, which is why it has been around for almost two centuries. We knew the shape of the traditional cowboy bedroll worked, its functionality was good, the protection it could provide from the elements was fare, but often left one wanting, and the canvas traditionally used was quite durable. These things didn’t need to necessarily be changed, but rather improved and where possible simplified.Often when a company tries to improve on timeless product or idea, the improvements made decreases the products simplicity, which regularly changes the very features that made it great in the first place. So, we asked: “how can we take an already simple concept and simplify it even more while at the same time improve and modernize all its features?”

We started by analyzing what the weaknesses of the traditional cowboy bedroll were, which would allow us to identify what we needed to improve. Once we knew what we needed to improve upon, then we could focus on simplifying those improvements.

Improvement #1: Traditional Canvas to Sunforger Marine Canvas

Canvas was a great fabric choice to use for the cowboy bedroll. It is a strong fabric that can handle the abuse of life in the outdoors. Although the cotton threads woven together would swell when wet making the weave extremely tight and difficult for water to get through, unless the canvas was treated it would not hold water out for long.

In fact, even if traditional canvas is treated – often called “Duck” or “Army Duck” canvas once treated – it will still absorb water when touched from the dry inside of the canvas. This is obviously going to be a problem when one is laying inside the canvas bedroll, and constantly rubbing up against it. The water you are supposed to be protected from will slowing start making its way to the inside, leaving you to wake up cold and wet. This obviously destroys one of the main purposes for using the bedroll.

At Canvas Cutter, we knew traditional canvas does not and would not be suitable for our premier canvas bedroll. To eliminate the afore-mentioned problem one would face with the traditional cowboy bedroll, we chose to use Sunforger Marine canvas.

Sunforger canvas is made from multi-thread spun-yarn, that is woven in a crisscross and diagonal line weave, making the weave significantly tighter than traditional canvas, and increasing the canvas’s strength dramatically at the same time. Marine treated means the canvas has been double treated – making it completely waterproof. The treatment also makes the canvas extremely mildew resistant.

Because of the treatment and tighter weave, the Sunforger canvas will not wick. This means it can rain all night and all day and you will remain warm, dry, and comfortable.

Improvement #2: The Flap System to Zipper

Although the traditional cowboy bedroll did provide some protection against the wind and bad weather, that protection was limited. When the weather was windy and rainy the struggle was oh-so-real.

The canvas tarp was used to create the bedroll cover by overlapping to canvas flaps which were often tied or buckled closed. The cowboy bedroll was open ended at the head, allowing the weather and cold air to come in. Sometimes there was a flap that could be pulled over the head protecting it from rain, but not the wind and cold or any puddled water on the ground around you.

Also, it would take time and patience to flip the canvas flaps over your bedding and tie or buckle them closed while getting wet and cold in the process.

At Canvas Cutter, we used the same simple rectangular shape of the traditional cowboy bedroll, but we got rid of the canvas flaps, ties, and buckles. We simplified the design by installing one zipper.

The heavy-duty YKK zipper (which meets military grade standards), runs from the foot of the bedroll up around the head and back down to the bottom of the bedroll, allowing you to quickly and completely close the inside of the bedroll off to the wind, rain, snow, dust, bugs or rodents that might want to find their way inside.

Whether you left the bedroll back at camp or you’re laying comfortably inside it, you and your gear are protected. Canvas Cutter bedrolls have four zipper pulls and short, weather flaps on each side. These pulls and flaps allow you to unzip the bedroll several inches on each side during bad weather conditions, increasing airflow and reducing the possibility of condensation build up inside the bedroll. Two overlapping seams cover the entire zipper and add additional protection against the weather.

Improvement #3: A Piece of Rope VS 3 Quick-release Buckles

The traditional cowboy bedroll was often kept rolled up by a rope or a leather strap. These got the job done, but the idea could definitely be improved upon.

The rope or leather strap were not connected to the bedroll itself, which meant you had to keep track of it. If it got lost, your ability to keep your bed rolled up and the convenience of carrying it was lost.

To make the roll-up/unroll process, as well as the carrying of the bedroll more simple, quick, and easy, we sewed three one-inch polyester webbing straps with quick release buckles to the bottom of the bedroll and included an easy to carry handle to the bottom of the bedroll.

The quick release buckles allow you to unroll your bedroll in seconds, without the hassle of dealing with knots or keeping track of a rope or strap.

When rolling the bedroll up, the quick release bucks and straps allow you to synch the bedroll as tight as you would like. The straps can also be loosened easily while buckled.

Pioneering Bedroll Convenience

The cowboy bedroll has been an iconic piece of outdoor gear in the west for centuries because it makes life in the rugged outdoors a little easier and more comfortable. It allows you to have a mobile camp, that can be set up or taken down quickly and conveniently.

The soul who conceived the simple idea was a genius, and Canvas Cutter has taken this idea and improved it a thousand times over, hoping this better way of sleeping in the outdoors sticks around for centuries to come.

If you are looking for a light-weight and durable canvas bedroll, pick up the newest addition to our canvas bedroll line up – The SUMMIT.

If you’ve been hunting for some time, chances are, you’re familiar with buck fever. Or that you know of another hunter who has experienced buck fever.

It’s what causes you to miss a giant deer from close range, even though you can regularly hit the bullseye during target practice. It’s also the reason why you feel your heart rate go up, and your hands to start trembling when you’re out there, and you catch sight of that deer, or any other animal that you’re hunting.

But what is buck fever, and why do so many hunters experience it? And are there ways that you can overcome the jittery feeling when it’s time to take the shot?

Here, we’ll learn more about buck fever, it’s symptoms, and what causes it. We’ll also cover some remedies to help you stay calm and focused during your next hunt.

What is buck fever?

Buck fever is a term that describes the nervousness that many hunters experience when they see a deer, and it’s time to take the shot.

According to a 2016 article published by Texas A&M University, buck fever is real, and it can even cause some experienced hunters to miss the broadside of a deer from close range [1].

The article also goes on to say that there is no real cure for buck fever. Fortunately, however, there are ways to keep buck fever under control, as we will discuss below.

But first, let’s take a look at some of the symptoms and explain why it happens.

What are the symptoms of buck fever?

Here are some of the potential symptoms of buck fever.

• Rapid heart rate
• Excessive sweating
• Trembling hands
• Narrow vision
• A perception that time is speeding up/slowing down

These physical symptoms, and in some severe cases, symptoms like nausea or loss of hearing, can present a real challenge for you as a hunter when it comes to taking an accurate shot on the animal.

Why do I experience buck fever?

When you’ve been out there, patiently waiting for hours, and you finally catch the sight of a buck, it is a thrilling moment. But it can also put a lot of pressure on you.

You might think of it as a rare moment for you to capitalize on the opportunity and deliver the kill shot, so you can provide nutritious food for your family. And as an ethical hunter, you also want to get it right the first time. You want the shot to be effective and lethal to minimize the animal’s suffering.

The added pressure of accuracy within a very small window of time can cause a spike in adrenaline hormone.

Adrenaline and buck fever

The elevated adrenaline is not necessarily a bad thing. Many hunters feel more alert and a greater sense of awareness because of the adrenaline spike, and they use it to their advantage to shoot more accurately.

But if adrenaline kicks into too much of an overdrive when you catch sight of that big-racked buck, it can exert too much on your cardiovascular system. It can cause your heart to pump blood with too much force, which is why you may feel like you’re losing control over your motor skills, and experience various symptoms of buck fever [2].

As we mentioned before, there isn’t really a “cure” for buck fever. And in a way, that’s a good thing, because you may not want it to go away completely.

Many hunters thrive on the adrenaline rush as it elevates intensity, and they cherish the increased awareness of the various emotions.

But if you feel like buck fever gets in your way of taking the best shot, whether it’s at the shooting range, or during an actual hunt, then you will benefit from learning how to control your emotions and calm your nerves.

5 tips to suppress buck fever and remain calm while hunting

Let’s examine five tips to help you remain calm and focused during your next hunting trip.

1. Are beta-blockers really effective against buck fever?

You might have tried beta-blockers in the past, or heard of another hunter who has used them to stave off the jitters.

Beta-blockers are a type of pharmaceutical drug that works by blocking the effects of adrenaline. They are typically prescribed by doctors in the form of Metoprolol & Propranolol in order to treat conditions like hypertension and irregular heartbeats.

Since adrenaline spikes are one of the primary factors behind buck fever, beta-blockers can be effective in preventing the physical symptoms.

But beta-blockers will always be a temporary solution. They do nothing as far as training you to become more resilient against buck fever. Additionally, they can have harmful side effects, and you can become dependent on them if you use them frequently [3]. And in the United States, you will need a prescription.

2. “Tactical breathing” to deactivate fight-or-flight mode

When you’re under intense pressure or stress, your body often switches to what is called the fight-or-flight, or survival mode. The survival mode prepares you to deal with any potential danger by increasing your alertness and awareness, and it is associated with the spike in adrenaline [2].

One of the most simple, yet effective, tools you have at your disposal to deactivate the fight or flight mode is “tactical breathing,” a trick used by Navy Seals to perform better under pressure [4].

Done right, “tactical breathing” can switch your nervous system back to a relaxed mode, and essentially act as a natural beta-blocker. You will feel your heart rate slow down back to normal, and the jitteriness disappear.

You can try it during your target practice, as well as when you’re getting ready to shoot during an actual hunt.

• Step 1: Take a deep breath into your stomach to a count of four.
• Step 2: Hold your breath and count to four.
• Step 3: Exhale slowly to a count of four.
• Step 4: Repeat the process till you feel calmer and in control.

3. Visualize the perfect shot (yes, it really works)

Imagining and practicing the perfect shot in your mind can help you remain calm and improve your performance under pressure.

If that sounds a bit too new-age-y, you should know that elite Olympians like Michael Phelps and Lindsay Vonn have used visualization techniques to improve their athletic performance when it mattered most [5][6].

Think of visualization as mental preparation for your next hunting trip. Take a few minutes each day to sit quietly, put yourself in a relaxed state through the breathing exercises mentioned earlier, and then imagine yourself taking the perfect shot at the deer.

Try to make it as vivid as possible. Involve all the senses. Imagine what it smells like, your hand on the trigger or the bow and arrow, the deer emerging, and anything else that you would experience in the real-life situation. You could even imagine yourself beginning to experience buck fever, and then overcoming it.

A visualization practice, along with all the regular preparations, will leave you better mentally prepared and more confident during your next hunt. It will make taking the shot less stressful and may diminish buck fever symptoms.

4. Mimic “real” hunting scenarios to gain confidence

When you practice, if you can mimic a real hunting scenario, it will prepare you better for the real deal.

Maybe you can practice with a 3-D deer and a treestand in the woods near where you live. Try to practice shooting from all kinds of distances that you might have to potentially shoot from when you’re hunting for a deer.

Although it will never be able to fully recreate the real situation, practicing enough in a mimicked environment can make you more familiar, and it might help you build greater confidence in your ability to shoot.

If you’re more confident about your shooting, then you’ll feel less stressed, and your buck fever won’t be as severe.

5. Try PerformZen to remain calm and collected under pressure

Along with breathing exercises, PerformZen can provide an extra boost in calmness and cognitive function.

PerformZen is a natural supplement designed to help performers remain calm under pressure. It is used by public speakers, actors during an audition, musicians who perform for live audiences, students preparing for important tests, professional athletes, and many others.

It can also help hunters suppress buck fever and remain calm when they have to take the perfect shot under extreme pressure.

PerformZen works by boosting GABA in your brain, a neurotransmitter associated with greater calmness [7]. It also contains L-theanine, an amino acid also proven to promote relaxation and calmness [8].

Not only will PerformZen help you remain calm under pressure, but it will also improve your mental focus. It contains magnesium and vitamin B6, the combination of which has been shown by research to improve cognitive function [9].

PerformZen also contains Theacrine and Ginkgo Biloba, both of which will further assist you with shaking off the jitters and in providing you with a clean boost of energy.

Unlike beta-blockers, a natural supplement like PerformZen works by supplying your brain with beneficial nutrients so that it can better handle stressful situations.

So is it possible to overcome buck fever?

Buck fever is a real phenomenon that is quite common among hunters, even experienced ones.

While you want your adrenaline levels to rise so you can elevate your intensity and awareness when taking the shot, you want to make sure that it doesn’t kick into overdrive and make you jittery.

Try some of the tips mentioned in this article, like “tactical breathing”, visualization, and real-life practice scenarios. And if you’re looking for an extra boost in calmness and mental focus, be sure to give PerformZen a try.