Turkey hunting is one of the more challenging sports in the hunting world. Many states have a turkey harvest success rate generally in the 30% range. If only 30% of hunters are successful, many of them would take whatever advantage they could get. So the question follows, can you turkey hunt with a rifle? The answer can be complicated and is different for nearly every state. However, where it is legal, turkey hunting with a rifle can help you reach out and bag gobblers that are just a little too stubborn to come within shotgun or bow range. After all, if there was a possibility for you to use a better tool to harvest turkeys in your state and help you become a better and more successful hunter, wouldn’t you want to know about it?

So can you turkey hunt with a rifle? In short, probably not. Only 12 states allow the use of rifles (not including muzzle-loaders) in one way or another during turkey season. After some extensive research, I made atable of all 50 states that contains the answer to whether or not a particular state allows turkey hunting with a rifle and linked to the section of their DNR explaining their exact rules.

You can check the table here: Rifle Turkey Hunting With a Rifle Table

As I said before, one way or another it is possible to hunt turkey with a rifle in 12 states. I say this because out of those 12 states, none of them have the exact same rules. Some of them only allow rifles (or only air rifles) to be used during a specific season, out of a possible three seasons. So, if you do live in one of the states that will allow it, make sure you read the regulations and call your local Department of Natural Resources just to make sure.

Why You Would Want to Use a Rifle

If you have turkey hunted for a few years, you have surely been in a situation where a nice tom was just a dozen yards out of range and you had to let them pass. Turkeys seem to have a knack for escaping hunters and constantly give us trouble. If you could use a rifle, you could shoot turkeys at well over 100 yards if you wanted to. Which increases that 30% success rate significantly.

Now the next question is, is hunting turkeys with a rifle ethical or not? Personally, I feel like if a state votes to include small caliber rifles as a legal method of take, then they want more turkeys to be harvested. Giving hunters that option is ultimately going to help them harvest more turkeys, thus helping the state to keep wild turkey numbers under control. Plus, if harvesting other animals such as squirrle with a rifle is ethical, why would it not be the same for turkeys?.

What Types of Rifles Are Allowed

To continue about the argument of whether it is ethical to harvest a turkey with a rifle, obviously, you would not want to hunt turkey with a 50 BMG. Large calibers would be unethical and honestly would not leave much of the turkey left. There has to be a limit somewhere so that the turkey is still intact and edible.

This is why most of the states that do allow you to hunt turkey with a rifle, only allow small calibers such as a .22 long rifle, .22 magnum, or a .223 at the largest. Many of them only allow air rifles to be used and the largest caliber I saw listed for those was .30. It does not take a high caliber to put down a turkey if you have good shot placement.

With a rifle, you want to aim for the neck or the head. This can be a difficult shot at long ranges so it is also effective to shoot turkeys in the lungs/liver and the heart. Although headshots will make for the quickest kill.

What We Normally Use to Harvest Turkey

When we normally think about turkey hunting, or watch turkey hunting, they are hunted with a shotgun. Using a shotgun may sound like it would make it easier to turkey hunt. However, the challenge comes when you need to get a turkey within shotgun range. With a normal rifle, it is not too difficult to make a 100-yard shot, but with a shotgun, you are doing good if you make a 40-yard shot.

This is why it is important to use the correct choke on your shotgun. Chokes help you reach out and maximize your guns range and shape your pattern. It is also important for shotgun hunters to pattern their shotguns so they know what range they can effectively shoot at. These are steps that serious turkey hunters always do, but many amateurs simply ignore, leading to lower success rates.

Another way to harvest a turkey is by using a bow or crossbow. If using a shotgun was not difficult enough, bow hunting turkeys is the real challenge. Turkeys have incredible vision and they can pick up the slightest movement. So when you have to pull your bow back 20 yards in front of a turkey, it would be very difficult to remain unseen. Although it is difficult, it is not impossible and hunters do it every year. If you are looking for a true turkey hunting challenge, try harvesting one with a bow.

Lastly, many states allow you to hunt with muzzle-loaders. Some allow muzzle-loading rifles and most are muzzle-loading shotguns. So this just adds an extra challenge to the shotgun dynamic. You get one shot and a giant cloud of smoke.

Conclusion

So if you are in or are close to one of the 12 states that do allow you to hunt turkeys with a rifle, why not give it a try this season? If you have had trouble in the past getting turkeys in range, this is your ticket. Now if you see a turkey, most likely you can shoot it with a rifle. Although you will still have to locate turkeys and use your calling skills, which is also quite the challenge. Hopefully, you can take the information from this article and up your arsenal for this coming season and become a better hunter.

Thank you for reading my article about turkey hunting with a rifle. I hope you enjoyed it and learned something you didn’t already know. If you like my content, subscribe to my weekly update. If you have any other questions about turkey hunting with a rifle or just want to connect, feel free to email me at [email protected].

This article will go through the process, step-by-step, of how to flat tan a squirrel skin using the Advanced Tanning Solutions Tan-a-Fur Skin Kit. We are demonstrating on squirrels, but the process is similar for other fur skins.

The Tan-a-Fur Skin Kit includes everything you need to tan a life-size mountain lion, a medium bear, or several small animals. It’s a perfect kit for beginner or experienced home tanners and DIY taxidermists. You’ll get a professional-quality result with a simple, all-in-one experience.

The kit includes:

• Fleshing/Shaving Tool
• Degreaser
• Pickle Tan
• Fur Oil
• Softening Stone
• Silk Powder
• Dust Mask
• Non-Latex Disposable Gloves (2)

You will need table salt, bleach, baking soda, a plastic bucket, and hot water.

Before You Begin

The skinning process should already be done. We like to say, “treat it like you’re going to eat it.” Meaning, get your animal dressed, skinned, and on ice (both meat and hide/skin) as soon as possible after the animal is harvested. This will prevent bacteria from starting to grow which will cause hair slippage, specially with small game, like squirrels.

Step 1: Fleshing a Squirrel Skin

The following process is basically the same for any of your small critters with fur. Even though you’ve skinned your squirrel, there’s likely a little bit of membrane and flesh that remains attached to the skin. The first step is to remove as much of that as possible to achieve a soft and supple tan.

Since you’re making a flat skin, you won’t need to do any face turning. Face turning is the process of turning the face inside out to flesh that area. It also involves splitting the nose, ears, and lips and then turning the ears inside ou (for larger animals)t. This is done for taxidermy purposes if you were going to mount your tanned hide or fur skin.

Using the fleshing tool that comes in the kit, gently scrape, peel, and pull away all the little bits of flesh and fat that remain on your skin. Fleshing always works best when you go with the grain of the hair, so start at the head and work your way to the tail. Feel free to also use your fingers to pull off loose pieces. Use the pointed edges of the fleshing tool to get into tighter areas, like the tail, especially for smaller rodents, like squirrels.

☞ This type of fleshing is called “table fleshing.” The rounded edge you see on the tool is for pipe fleshing. With pipe fleshing, you would lay your skin over a pipe, stretch it tightly, and then use that rounded edge to scrape the flesh. That type of fleshing isn’t necessary with squirrels, but you can use pipe fleshing for beavers, raccoons, possums, and other greasier, fleshier animals.

Removing the musk glands

Removing the musk glands

Most fur-bearers have little sacs, called musk glands near the tail. They are oily, greasy, and don’t tan well so they need to be removed. Simply pull them away using the edge of your fleshing tool as shown.

How do you know when your hide is clean?

You’ll know your hide is clean when you see a blue color on the skin. If you see the blueing, it means there’s no flesh there to scrape off. But dark areas and white areas are flesh and fat — those need to be removed.

Once you’ve removed all the flesh, the musk glands, and all the membrane from your hide and you’re happy with it, you’re ready to move on to the next step — salting.

Step 2: Salting a Squirrel Skin

The salting process removes all the fluids, oils, fat, and non-tannable proteins from your skin. It will dehydrate the skin and help to lock the fur in to prevent hair slippage — nobody wants a bald squirrel!

To salt the skin for a flat tan, flip the face open and add a generous amount of salt to this area then fold the lips in. Next, apply a heavy layer of fine table salt over the entire skin so you can work it into the edges. Make sure every bit of the flesh areas gets salted. If you’re worried about staining, use non-iodized salt.

Salting the tail

After you’ve salted the squirrel’s body and face, open the tail all the way down and apply salt to fill in the crease. Next, pinch the tail together, just to keep all the salt in the tail. After that, you’ll flip the tail so that it rests on top of the body. Finally, add additional salt to cover the tail, just to make sure the whole tail gets nice and dry.

Let your skins dry in salt overnight for about 12 hours. Larger fur skins need 24 hours to dry. The next day, shake off the excess salt and if the skin still feels damp, re-apply another layer of clean salt and let it sit again overnight.

When your skin is dry, you’re ready to move on to the next step, rehydrating your squirrel skin.

Step 3: Rehydrating a Squirrel Skin

Now that your squirrel is dry salted, it’s time to rehydrate it. You rehydrate your hide by putting it in a rehydration bath that consists of the following items PER gallon of hot water. Since the squirrels are small we mixed just 1 gallon of rehydration solution, but larger skins will require a bigger bath:

• ¾ cup of salt
• 1 teaspoon of Advanced Tanning Solutions Degreaser (in the Tan-a-Fur Kit)
• ½ teaspoon of bleach

Mix to dissolve the salt and let the bath cool to room temperature. Do NOT put skins in hot water as this will cause bacteria to grow resulting in hair slippage.

Shake off the loose, excess salt. Don’t grab any chunks of salt and pull them, you will risk pulling out fur with it. Instead, crush or pinch the salt, and it should fall off easily. This goes for the salt that’s packed into the tail and face area, too.

You’ll notice the hide is dry and stiff. Next, dunk your skin in the rehydrating bath, much like you were dunking a cookie in milk. When it starts to soften and bend, you can let your skin gently sink into the bath.

Soak your skin in the rehydration bath until it is soft and supple. You’ll notice some layering of color in the water as a result of the degreaser working as it pulls the dirt and blood out of the skin. The result will be a soft, fluffy fur rather than greasy fur.

After rehydrating

When the skins are relaxed, remove from the rehydration bath, give it a very gentle squeeze to remove excess liquid, and then hang it — fur side out — over a bucket to drip dry.

You can see the Degreaser working as it pulls the dirt and fluids out to the bottom of the rehydration bath.

In about 15 minutes, your squirrel skin will be ready for pickling. To continue, see the next guide in our series How to Tan a Squirrel Part 2: Pickling and Shaving.

You have a lot of options for catching a variety of different salmon, however, most it boils down to 3 things: bait fish, eggs and flies. Imitate these 3 things and you will catch fish.

Best Fishing Lures & Flies

Soft Baits

Curly tail grubs are great baits for salmon. The 4 to 5 inch grubs will work better than the smaller grubs, however, for some of the smaller salmon, don’t rule out a 2 to 3 inch grub. They are great for casting, jigging or slow trolling.

Jigging or drop shotting minnow baits aren’t a very popular way to fish for salmon, however, they can be effective. Some anglers will fish this way when they find a large school of salmon. Another way to fish with these baits is with a scrounger jighead. You can then cast them and wind them in with a steady retrieve or slow troll them.

Swimbaits can be very effective for salmon. You cast them or troll them. They probably work better trolled because you can cover more water, but don’t rule out these lures when salmon move into the shorelines and harbors to spawn in the fall.

Hard Baits

Crankbaits can be effective for salmon. Most anglers that fish crankbaits will troll with them. Whether you fish shallow, deep or in between, you have a lot of options. Some anglers report good success casting crankbaits when salmon move into the shallows during the spawn.

This is one of the most popular ways to troll for salmon, especially in the spring and early summer when salmon can be caught somewhat shallow.

Inline spinners are very popular for trout and they will work for salmon too. Most anglers won’t use spinners for salmon, however, when salmon move into the shallows to spawn, you can usually catch some fish with a spinner. On the Great Lakes, anglers fish the harbors and shorelines in the fall and do pretty well with these lures. Some anglers report success in some rivers too, however, flies and eggs tend to be much more productive in the rivers.

Spoons

Trolling spoons are the most popular types of spoons for salmon. Troll a variety of them at different depths and they will catch all types of salmon.

Casting spoons aren’t as popular as trolling spoons, but they are super effective when salmon are close enough to shore that you can cast for them. Some boaters also report good success casting spoons in the harbors in the Great Lakes. Every state doesn’t allow you to fish from your boat in the harbors, so check the regulations before using this technique.

Jigging spoons can be effective for salmon when you find a school of them in deeper water. Trolling tends to be more effective so most anglers never even try a jigging spoon. They can be effective though if you are in the right situation.

Flies

They say that when salmon enter the rivers to spawn that they do not eat, however, they must still be willing to hit a bait, otherwise, anglers would never catch them. You can use a variety of flies that you see trout anglers use, however, most anglers that fly fish for salmon will stick to the egg patterns and streamers. You can catch salmon with other flies, but the ones listed below tend to be the better patterns for targeting salmon.

The egg sucking leech is a very unique fly that works very well for salmon. Anglers fish these at the beginning of the spawning runs all the way to the end and they tend to catch fish consistently through the entire run.

Egg flies work great, especially once the salmon start laying their eggs during the spawning runs.

There may not be a better way to target salmon once the salmon start laying their eggs during the spawning runs in the rivers. Tie on a single egg and drift it slowly downstream.

Streamers are popular flies for salmon. Fish a variety of streamers in the rivers when the salmon are running and you should catch some fish.

Humans are curious being, often intrigued to know about obscure things, including food that doesn’t fall under the conventional realm.

In this case, slugs may not be mainly known as a kitchen delicacy but have stirred interest among a specific section of the people.

However, is this shell-less mollusk edible or safe to eat? Unless you’re into unconventional foods, these questions are probably in your mind.

In this post, we’ll reveal what slugs taste like. Not only that, we’ll answer crucial aspects related to it.

Let’s get into it without further ado.

What are Slugs?

The term ‘slug’ refers to all forms of gastropod mollusks without a shell.

It’s also commonly known as a land slug.

Various kinds of this species are found across the globe, varying in shapes and sizes, but the external anatomy remains the same.

Like snails, it has tentacles on its head, giving sensory and optical senses.

Instead of a shell, it has a mantle covering the top of the head.

Although these species are categorized under the same class-Gastropoda, significant differences start from behavior to anatomy.

Water comprises half of the slugs’ bodies. These mollusks are found primarily on moist ground after heavy rain.

You’ll find them in the damp area under rocks, tree bark, and fallen logs during the dry season.

They have soft tissues which make them highly prone to desiccation due to the absence of an outer shell.

Hence, mucus generation is vital for this mollusk in order to survive.

What Do Slugs Taste Like?

Most people might be familiar with snails as part of kitchen delicacy compared to this shell-less mollusk.

However, some people consume slugs.

It may not be the aesthetically pleasing creature, and to have it may not be everyone’s cup of tea.

That said, unconventional food like this tends to have divided opinions.

Some people like it, while others may not. It also mainly depends on how you prepare it.

The texture is rubbery, and its outer body is quite slimy.

The taste of a slug would be best described as mild, closely similar to snails.

It also largely depends on the ingredients and the preparation process involved.

Because of the presence of mucus, it has a hint of bitterness.

In this case, proper cleaning is required before you proceed with the cooking.

Not many are enthusiastic about eating slugs, which is understandable.

However, some people relish this mollusk. Regardless, it has high nutritional value.

It’s a good source of protein and minerals and also has a high caloric value.

Cleaning these critters is crucial if you plan to have them.

Since they’re scavengers, they may carry parasites that might cause a potential health risk.

Once cleaned, you may prepare it any way you want, from stir-frying to backwoods boil.

We suggest using richly-flavored ingredients since it has a mild taste.

Want to know how to prepare these critters? Keep reading below.

How to Prepare and Eat Slugs?

Since slugs are scavengers, thorough cleaning is to prevent potentially life-threatening diseases.

They’re considered safe but come with a caveat.

If you plan on having these critters, putting them in a container filled with damp cornmeal for a day or two is highly advisable.

Or, put it in wet lettuce, and let them purge.

Once done with toxic cleansing elements, proceed with your culinary adventure.

Some of the ways to have these shell-less mollusks are as follows:

• Stir-fry slug.

Stir-frying these critters is one of the best ways to relish their taste.

First, you need to blanch slugs in boiling water and then slice them.

Take a wok or skillet to stir-fry along with vegetables.

Add soy sauce to enhance the taste further.

• Slug pasta.

Give your pasta a new taste by adding these critters.

Stir-fry them in butter first, and then add the pasta sauce.

Let it cook under low-medium heat for ten minutes.

Fold cooked pasta in the mix and then serve it.

• Deep-fried slugs.

Another great way to enjoy these mollusks is by deep-frying them.

Preparing this way will be an excellent introduction to slugs if it’s your first time.

First, you need to boil them in hot water for two minutes.

After this, immerse them in egg and then rub them in bread crumbs.

Deep fry them like how you do with fried chicken. Fry until it’s golden brown.

Conclusion

Slugs may not be the most pleasant-looking creature, but they are essential to our ecosystem.

Consumption of these critters is a personal choice but comes with a caveat.

Although it’s considered safe to eat, it’s prone to carry parasites that may pose a potential health risk.

If you plan to have it, ensure it’s adequately cleaned and thoroughly cooked.

Avoid raw slugs since they’re scavengers and are likely to have toxic elements.

About The Author

Final Verdict

If you’re looking for a tote-everywhere flask, Stanley’s Classic Flask can’t be beaten, hitting the perfect sweet spot of affordable, thoughtfully constructed, and durable. If you’re working with a larger budget, Snow Peak’s Titanium Curve Flask has built up a loyal fan base for a reason.

What to Look For in a Flask

Use

The most important question to consider is how will you use it? Is this going to be slipped into a bag, purse, or pocket for sipping on the sly? Will you take it with you for walking and adventuring in the outdoors? Your intended use is a strong determining factor for what type of flask to purchase.

Material

Similar to use, the material is important. You might prefer something lightweight; typically, stainless steel isn’t a very heavy material for flasks, and it’s easy to clean. Maybe you need a material that’s more durable or that’s got some reinforcements around the edges with silicone. Perhaps you’re looking to gift a flask and like the looks of those wrapped in leather or other materials. Some flasks will benefit from polishing, too, to keep them shiny; that’s another consideration. How much do you want to have to fuss with your flask?

Capacity

Flasks can vary quite a bit in their capacity for liquid. Many hover around 6 ounces, but others can hold up to 8, 10, or even 11 ounces. Some are oversized and designed that way (such as those that can hold up an entire bottle of wine), which makes them great for taking on the go and sharing with others.

FAQs

What should a flask be made from?

Most flasks (although not all) are made from high-grade stainless steel that resists rusting and can be cleaned easily. The exterior can be polished but doesn’t scratch easily, and stainless steel doesn’t typically impart any taste to whatever contents you put in the flask.

How do you clean a flask?

The easy answer is soap and water. But if your flask has started to take on a smell, a bottle brush will help get into the corners for a deeper clean. Boiling water will help break down lingering scents, or if you’re looking for something more heavy-duty, add white vinegar or lemon juice and water to the flask, close it up, and give it a good shake. Rinse several times in hot water to remove that acidic smell.

How many ounces/liquid does a flask hold?

Flasks are available in a range of sizes, though the standard flask holds 8 ounces. Larger flasks are available if you’re carrying drinks for two.

What alcohol is best for a flask?

The best thing to sip from a flask is hard liquor, be it scotch, rum, bourbon, brandy, or gin. Anything below 40% ABV—that means beer, wine, and cocktails—will not keep well in a flask.

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Kate Dingwall is an experienced spirits writer and glassware collector. She has been writing about the bar and spirits world for five years, from the best glassware to the most spirited tomes.

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For a long time, bowfin have been held in low opinion in the public eye in terms of being an eating fish. With that said, you might be wondering if you should kill bowfin like you might kill carp and eat them for food. Some people will tell you that you can, but is that advice misguided? Can you eat bowfin fish?

You can eat bowfin fish without it being dangerous, but most people don’t like the flavor because they don’t prepare it right. Incorrectly prepared, it has a soft, mushy texture. If you had to think about the flavor, most compare it to catfish with a meatier flavor.

Experience of Eating Bowfin

While bowfin will thrash and squirm after you have put them at the end of your line and they put up a spirited fight, most people don’t think you should eat bowfin—they’re wrong. They don’t taste as good as walleye, northern pike or sunfish, but you can prepare them so that they will taste better.

The flesh of bowfin is soft and jellylike when incorrectly prepared, and while it might be edible, most people wouldn’t consider it worth eating. When prepared wrong, they’d be right.

Also worth noting, they call the bowfin the mudfish for a reason. It has a strong flavor of mud, which is why many bowfishermen won’t eat them. As one bowfisherman reports, “They’re edible, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to eat it.”

The other thing worth noting is that bowfin accumulate mercury in their body, and the older the bowfin, the more mercury it will have. In particular, pregnant women must be careful because of how mercury can harm an unborn child. It can harm parts of the child’s body like the lungs, kidneys and nervous system. In addition, it could harm a young child’s nervous system as well. That said, the mercury issue is true of any predatory fish. You can learn more about mercury issues with fish here.

If you did decide to eat bowfin, you should cook it right away to keep the meat from turning mushy. Don’t worry, we’ll show you how to properly prepare it soon so that it tastes good.

What Does Bowfin Taste Like?

How they taste depends on your cooking method. In Louisiana, they have come to be known as cotton fish, which describes the texture of it unless you cook it right. You can combat the texture of bowfin by cutting it like chicken fingers, and that’s the method that I would recommend. You might compare the taste to alligator gar in some ways or catfish as we said above when done right.

You would definitely call bowfin an acquired taste. A lot of people won’t like it, but some people do call it good eating. That said, most people don’t. I’ve had it to where it did taste good, however. Bowfin have small bones that you have to be careful of. As you chop the fillets, direct your efforts away from the stomach region. That is where the bowfin caught its nickname, the mudfish because it tastes like mud.

Bowfin Preparation—9 Tips for Eating It

How you prepare the bowfin will have an impact on the flavor. The preparation stages to create a good flavor are crucial but tricky. You can go wrong in several ways. First, you can’t put water on this fish without impacting the flavor. Avoid it at all costs. If you put water on it and don’t burn it as a result, it will negatively impact the flavor. Second, you can’t put this fish in the fridge and cook it tomorrow morning because the water will impact the meat and make it mushy and difficult to eat.

When you prepare bowfin right, it will have a meatier texture than other fish. As soon as you catch a bowfin, you take it home and start frying it up. Waiting will make it taste bad, which is why many fishermen have had a bad experience with eating bowfin. If you don’t have the time to cook it right away, put it back in the water and let it go. It’s not worth it, otherwise. This isn’t an invasive fish species like the snakehead.

Let’s take the example of someone who tries to put it in the fridge for tomorrow. In one case, the individual had the bowfin meat turn entirely to mush and run through his fingers when he went to cook it. He couldn’t even attempt cooking it. That flavor would’ve been downright scary. We’ll show you how to make it taste right, and you can decide for yourself if you want to try it.

Tip #1 Fillet It While Alive: You want to fillet this fish while alive because it will let the blood run out of it. The blood is responsible for the muddy taste of the fish. Unlike other fish, bowfin can store oxygen in their blood. For those who have a light stomach, this may be too gruesome, but the average fisherman who eats fish and fillets them won’t have a problem.

Tip #2 Don’t Put Water On It: We already talked about not putting water on it, but we can’t emphasize that enough. If you don’t put water on it at all, it will hold its shape without becoming mushy. As soon as you put water on it, however, it turns to mush, making it inedible. Don’t put water of any kind on it. It’s better to avoid it altogether for the best results when cooking.

Tip #3 Take Paper Towels to Pat the Meat: You take a roll of paper towels to pat down the meat and eliminate the blood to get rid of the muddy flavor. Again, we can’t use water on the meat because it will badly impact the texture to the point that you will struggle to eat it. While you can’t clean it with water, you still want it clean. Otherwise, it would be like eating bloody meat. Be sure to clean the scales off the meat as well. The scales on the bowfin are solid, and he has some tough scales. You may want to use an electric fillet knife to clean it in the initial stages.

The Bubba 110V Electric Fillet Knife is a great knife to clean it with because it can get past the scales. It also has a slip-free handle making it ideal for fish, which can be slippery.

Tip #4 Cut It in Half and Make Nuggets: Next, you will cut the two separate bowfin fillets in half to make it into four separate pieces. You don’t need to hit it exactly at the middle part, but you want it close for the portion sizes. Next, you will cut it crossways against the grain like you were cutting fish sticks out of it.

Tip #5 Grilling vs Frying: You can grill bowfin, and it will taste incredible if prepared right. Most people choose to fry it, but you can cook it on the grill as well, and it will taste equally as good. You can also cook it on the Blackstone. With whatever cooking method that you choose, the preparation steps will all carry the same steps.

Tip #6 Use Tinfoil for Grilling: With grilling the fish, we would recommend that you use tinfoil before cutting it up into fish sticks. You will put lemon pepper, Tony’s Original Creole Seasoning and lemon juice (optional). We would only recommend the last one if you like lemon on your fish.

Tip #7 Don’t Let the Bowfin Die: If you let the bowfin die before you can cook it, he won’t taste good because you need to let the blood run out of the fish while he’s alive. You must fillet it while alive for the best flavor. This fish is extremely finicky with how you prepare it, which explains why many people don’t like bowfin. They try it one time, if at all, have a bad experience and never try it again because they don’t know how to prepare it.

I was that guy, and I very hesitantly tried it a second time when a buddy showed me.

Tip #8 Good Fish to Learn How to Fillet: The bowfin offers you an awesome chance to learn how to fillet if new to filleting fish because of how it has a thick meat, and you won’t cut through it easily. In comparison to learning on a catfish, the bowfin is much easier to learn filleting on.

Tip #9 Beware of Making the Meat Cuts Too Thick: You don’t want the meat cuts too thick because of how it won’t cook as well. Make sure that the meat cuts don’t have as much thickness for the best results.

Bowfin Recipe

To begin cooking, we will assume that you have taken the proper steps to prepare it. Remember—good preparation will give you the best flavor in the meat. You want to prepare so that the following steps will make it taste good.

1. Take yellow corn meal and put it in a bowl.
2. Grab a handful of Tony’s Original Creole Seasoning and throw it in the bowl.
3. Add about the same amount of salt.
4. Mix the bowl up well to give it the best seasoning. You want an even mixing throughout the bowl.
5. Don’t wash anything with the fish. Remember, water will hurt the flavor. Take the fillets and put them directly into the bowl for seasoning.
6. Once you have the fillets in the bowl, you wil cover the bowl and start shaking it to put the mixture over the fish fillets.
7. After you have shaken it up, the mixture should take to the meat.
8. Fire up the fryer or the grill and add the fillets into the oil once it becomes hot. You want it at about 275 degrees Fahrenheit.
9. You will cook the meat for 12 minutes, give or take. You will know they’re done when golden brown.

Once you have done that, give the meat a try and see if you like it. Provided you prepared it properly, you may find that you like it. This isn’t the fish for everyone, but some people may say it in a new light.

The biggest problem with bowfin is that many people don’t know how to prepare it, and this meat is very finicky. If not prepared in the way outlined, it won’t taste good.

Try It for Yourself

The only way to learn if bowfin is edible is by trying it for yourself. When I first had bowfin, I didn’t like the flavor because I didn’t prepare it right. A buddy of mine showed me how to prepare it, and it tasted much better after that. Everyone will be different, and if you have the opportunity to try it, I would recommend it. You can’t be harmed by trying it one time.

With that said, the average person who doesn’t prepare it correctly may want to just throw it away or let the fish go back into the water before that point.

Bowfin Caviar: What Does It Taste Like?

While eating bowfin has never been popular, one thing that has picked up in popularity has been to eat bowfin eggs. Bowfin caviar has a jet black color, and they are firm. The taste is mildly tangy and earthy. In particular, bowfin caviar has picked up in popularity in the southern United States like Louisiana where it has the name Cajun Caviar. In South America, they call it Chourpique.

If you’d like to know what bowfin caviar tastes like, you can buy some American bowfin black caviar here. We would call it a less expensive version of sturgeon caviar. Many people have even liked it. They taste small, crunchy, mild and not overly salty. Bowfin black caviar offers you a great introduction to caviar if you never had it before.

For anyone wondering if it is Kosher, they don’t consider this Kosher in the Orthodox Union. Most caviar isn’t Kosher and when you find a Kosher, it is rare.

Bowfin caviar versus sturgeon caviar costs less. However, it doesn’t have the same stellar reputation as sturgeon caviar. In comparison to sturgeon caviar, sturgeon will taste much like the sea, but neither sturgeon nor bowfin caviar should have an overly fishy flavor.

Bowfin and Prevailing Negative Beliefs

You might be wondering to yourself, “Is bowfin dogfish?” Yes, bowfin is the same as dogfish, and if you know anything about dogfish, it has received an unjustified reputation. This native fish has existed in North America for thousands of years. You can learn more about this fascinating living fossil here.

Usually, when you catch a bowfin, you will hear the conversation go something along these lines, “You caught a dogfish? You didn’t put it back, did you? Dogfish kill other fish for fun!”

In truth, bowfin do not kill other fish for fun. They act as scavengers, and they eat some of the other fish that people love, but because they’re a native fish species, they should be left alone. Most likely, bowfin receive a bad reputation because they taste bad when prepared wrong, and they look like the invasive snakehead species. The snakehead brings diseases to native fish populations that can kill them off.

You can tell bowfin apart from snakeheads because snakeheads have one big long and continuous anal fin, while the bowfin’s anal fin is more like a regular fin. Bowfin don’t overpopulate, and they don’t cause any harm to other fish. Not only that, but they’re a native fish species: all the more reason to leave them alone.

Don’t Kill Bowfin if You Don’t Eat Them

People who say to kill bowfin speak from ignorance, rather than truth. Bowfin is like the snakehead in that it has a set of lungs, which allows it to survive on land for an amount of time. In fact, one recorded case of it surviving had the bowfin alive for up to 21 days in a dried up pond. Compare that to a northern pike, they can only live five minutes out of water.

That said, in some states like Indiana, they require you to kill snakeheads if you catch them, but these aren’t considered good eating anyhow. You should check your local laws to ensure that it is legal if you practice catch and release of a snakehead. With bowfishing, that never becomes a problem, however, because of how shooting a fish with a bow will kill the fish.

The problem is that a lot of people don’t know how to distinguish snakeheads from bowfin, and as a result, they kill them both. Bowfin do not have a continuous backfin while a snakehead does. When handling the bowfin, be careful because they have been known to bite without warning. This fish has fearsome teeth like a mouth full of canines, and they have been known to bite through fishing line.

You should only kill a bowfin if you intend to eat it.

Great Fighting Fish

If you have ever had a dogfish thrashing at the end of your line, you know what a fight these fish can put up. In fact, bowfin are one of the few species that do the deathroll like gators. They put up a furious fight. Many anglers even respect the bowfin because of its fighting capabilities. It puts up one of the hardest fights out of all the freshwater fish species. They fight harder than bass.

Check out this short video to see how a bowfin fights:

Conclusion

Provided you have prepared the bowfin correctly before you go to cook it, it will taste fine. In fact, I have known people who call it one of the best-tasting fish species around. That said, you have to prepare it right. In particular, people in the South like Mississippi seem to have the best understanding of how to cook it. If you don’t plan to eat it, you may want to release them back into the water. Some fishermen even believe that bowfin are beneficial to the local waters and the surrounding fish.

Not to mention, they never take over the waters like what carp do. In addition, they’re native, and that especially is why you shouldn’t kill them unless you plan to eat them.

Footwear

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our boots are the most important pieces of equipment you will bring. You can borrow a gun, jacket or pack, but rarely will you be able to borrow boots. The most important aspects are fit and comfort, followed by durability. If you have foot problems or you just want your feet to feel good, I’d recommend visiting a foot specialist and getting a set of custom orthotics made.

You should at least get an after-market insole/foot bed like Super Feet. Different boots fit different feet types. If the boot does not feel good, don’t buy it for its looks. Concerning boots, I prefer all leather for most mountain hunting situations. The Kenetrek Mountain Extreme 400 is the best I have used in any situation PERIOD!

Plastic boots are okay in cold weather and rough terrain, but are not real comfortable to walk in over flat ground. In general, boots with less side stitching are good. Gore-Tex boots work well, but I also recommend getting a pair of 13” tall, non-insulated Gore-Tex socks from Cabela’s or another laminated sock brand called Seal Skins, in the event you step in water or your feet get wet from sweat. This is cheap insurance for dry feet. Air bob type soles work well in mud and soft terrain, provide good traction, but are not very durable in rock.

Most leather boots that you see advertised for hunting are insufficient and fall apart quickly. The following are some recommendations: Kenetrek Mountain Extreme 400 are our #1 choice boot as all our guides now use them in all situations. They are very durable extremely comfortable and have almost no break in time. (Contact -Jim Winjum’s web site via our Links page). The Canada Hunter 200 or 800, Alaskan Hunter, Teton Hiker and the Denali’s. Outdoor Essentials (owned by Seighard Weitzel), sells the top of the line Meindl boots (Loggers). They have good rubber and very little side stitching and hold up well in the rocks. Danner boots work, but are not the best in steep terrain or rocks.

Other excellent boots to consider are made by Kayland, Technica, Asolo, Garmot, One Sport, Vasque, Merrell, La Sportiva, Salomon and Lowa Sheep Hunters are all good. Try to get leather boots that will handle abrasive from rocks and brush and do not break down when wet.

Your boots will last much longer if you take care of them. Wear your boots around a while before you “grease” them. I clean any oil or dirt off exposed side stitching with rubbing alcohol or acetone, then coat the stitching with Seam Grip or Freesole to prevent it from getting cut on rocks and brush. Several light coats work well. For waterproofing boots, Nikwax paste works well. Meindl makes a good Wax also. Use Montana Pitch Blend on Schnee’s boots. An old toothbrush works well for applying Nikwax. I generally heat MT Pitch Blend in a Microwave or pot of hot water and apply it with a paintbrush. Use your fingers to rub the stuff into the leather grain. Snoseal and Mink oil are not as good as those mentioned .

A trick for comfortable feet, especially on a backpack trip, where you will be unable to pack another set of boots, is to bring along another set of insoles that fit your feet slightly differently than your others. It may help prevent hot spots from forming.

A Leki or Black Diamond (“Black Diamond Carbon whippet” is my go to) telescopic hiking pole is highly recommended for most people and mandatory for people with bad knees and/or poor balance. I personally will not hike with a pack without a walking stick. One other trick for people with weak or sensitive knees is to wear a set of lightweight kneepads when hunting in rocky terrain or for stalking sheep and goats in the sharp rocks. The Sitka Timberline pants have these built in or Arcteryx also sells a very good, more durable strap-on set.

After you’ve spent all that money and time finding the right set of boots, don’t cut corners on cheap socks. Bridgedale and Lorpen makes the very best. Smart wool, Wigwam & Thorlo are excellent too. There are other brands of decent socks, but these are great. If you have high volume feet, one sock may work. Some wear a liner under a heavy sock or will wear two medium thick socks together. Experiment to find out what is best for you. Of all the clothes you wear, socks are the most important to keep clean and fresh. It is a good idea to have enough for a change every 2-3 days. Athlete’s foot and blisters are not fun. Take care of your feet.

Clothing / Outerwear:

For sheep hunts I recommend Sitka in the Optifade pattern. We all use it and it works very well in the terrain we hunt. Contact David Brinker at Sitka Gear, [email protected]. He will hook you up with the right setup for any situation. I only use clothing made by Sitka. Below there is alss some options that may work for you as well.

In general, stick with synthetics (Fleece, Schoeller, Saddlecloth, nylon/poly blends etc.) or wool. For backpacking, synthetics tend to be lighter and quicker to dry. Smart Wool is hard to beat. Wool is more odor & wind resistant than fleece, unless you use Wind stopper fleece like Beyond Fleece or Mountain Hardware. A jacket or parka with a hood is a good idea.

Make sure you have a belt or suspenders for your pants Collared shirts or Zipped pullovers work the best. A vest makes a great layering tool. Some people like them and some don’t. Down vests are very warm and work well late in the fall. A fleece or wool vest will work most of the season. A lightweight jacket made with synthetic fill (Kelvin Jacket (Sitka) or Brooks Range Jacket – Barney’s Sports) is a good idea if you get cold easily. A good hat and gloves are vital to staying comfortable.

A brimmed hat works well for warmer weather, rain and for people who don’t like hoods. They can get in the way on a backpack hunt. Later in the year, a hat with earflaps will keep your neck and ears warm. Wind block fleece gloves with a shell is a good all weather combination. For cold weather, a pair of waterfowl type, Gortex gloves (Cabela’s MT050) works well as does a mountaineering type glove made by Patagonia, Mountain Hardware or Black Diamond or Outdoor Research “OR”. I always pack an extra set of “Stormfront” gloves with me as the temperature can change at anytime. If you get cold hands easily, bring a pair of mittens also.

In warmer weather, their Microtex (Burr Barrier) and lightweight fleece is great. LL Bean makes a nice set of Worsterlon clothes and wind bloc fleece. Day One Camouflage makes some of the nicest camo fleece, especially for bow hunters. They have a huge selection of patterns to choose from. Barney’s Sport Chalet sells some excellent Wind block Fleece and lightweight backpacking clothing (The Black, 3SP Sport hill Mountain Pants are great – maybe the best all around backpacking pant made for the money).

Mountain Hardware (Wind block) and Arcteryx (Gamma MX) make excellent Wind block pants and jackets. Mountain Hardware and Arcteyrx (Gamma LT) also make excellent early season backpacking/mountain/rock pants made from a Schoeller Fabric that breathe well and are very tough.

Another great line of wind block items if made by Beyond Fleece. They can custom make any size, color, feature you want. Regarding wool, King of the Mountain is the best all around for cold weather.

Another company that makes excellent technical wool clothing is IbexWear, Filson, Sleeping Indian Designs, Pendleton & Woolrich also make nice wool clothing. If you will be backpacking, the clothing should be light, quick drying and layering is a key.

Quiet clothing is important for bow hunting. For the mountain/backpack type hunts, noise and camouflage are not as important as warmth, weight, durability, comfort, fit and layering.

Regarding Camouflage, it is not necessary, but it will help you blend into the environment. If you want Camo, Sitka is by far the best Clothing for backpacking. The pattern you choose is not critical. If you are doing a mountain hunt, choose a color that is open and blends with rocks and ledges. Sitka, Kuiu, Kryptek, Mossy Oak, Advantage, ASAT, Predator & Real tree will all work.

You are not required by law to wear hunter orange.

Rain gear is likely the most debated subject in the clothing department. If you want rain gear that is maintenance free, affordable, relatively light weight, durable and fairly quiet, consider a set of Helly Hansen Impertech in Olive Green.

REMEMBER IF YOUR HIKING IN RUBBER RAIN GEAR YOU WILL SWEAT A LOT.

Sitka Gear is what we recommend – Stormfront. You can purchase it from Cabela’s or Barney’s Sport Chalet.

Good quality, 3-ply Gore-Tex (XCR is best) shells to consider include: Patagonia, Mountain Hardware, Taiga Works, Arcteryx and the North Face, these are not camo or quiet, but can work well for mountain type backpack hunts, especially in September and later. When a Gore-Tex jacket becomes dirty and looses its DWR coating, the water will not bead up on the surface, causing it to work poorly. Gore makes a product called Revivex that works on most outerwear.

For Backpack hunting (later season sheep), I recommend this group of 3-ply Gore-Tex rain gear as it does not absorb water and is easier to dry in the wind, without a fire or stove.

To keep your pants from giving you saggy crotch syndrome, make sure they come with a set of suspenders or use a bib instead.

When you combine a waterproof layer and a quiet outer material in one package, you get a quieter product, but it also becomes heavy and more difficult to dry when saturated. If anyone can help solve this dilemma, they will be able to retire and hunt forever. This is not so much an issue on horseback or cabin/wall tent type hunts, but is very important on extended backpack style hunts. If you are comfortable hunting naked, then you will not have to worry about this dilemma.

Underwear

Layering with multiple items is better than wearing just one or two heavy layers. Synthetics are the way to go for comfort, moisture wicking and warmth. In August, bring lighter weight material; in mid-September and later, you should bring heavier weight underwear.

Try products made with Thermax, MTP, Thermastat, Capalene, Polarmax and Micro Fleece. Polypropylene is not as good as it holds odor and should not be dried in a dryer. Merino Wool underwear can work well; Smart wool, Ibex Wear, Arcteryx RHO wool and Ice Breakers are great, especially in late September and October.

I prefer neutral colors: gray, brown, green or black as they can be worn by themselves. If you have long legs, get tall bottoms or you will experience high-water syndrome. Tops with a zip-top and longer neck are warmer and more comfortable when wearing binos. Arcteryx, Cabela’s & Patagonia made great synthetic products.

Regarding underwear, briefs or boxer briefs will work. I like boxer briefs when worn alone with just pants or regular briefs when wearing long underwear bottoms. Make sure that whatever you wear does not chafe your privates (some guides call this “Baboon Butt”) as you will be walking bow-legged and your smile will fade away (this is why I recommend a tube of Tinactin in your daypack). Some people don’t wear underwear underneath long underwear bottoms. Cabela’s MTP, Apalene, Polarmax and Sporthill make great synthetics. Ibex Wear also makes a set of Wool,no-itch briefs worth trying.

Here’s our review of the Ravin R10 crossbow. Ravin presents rifle-like crossbows that are significantly smaller and narrower than crossbows of other brands. The R10 is the successor of the R9 Predator. We also reviewed the Ravin R20 and the R26.

We were very excited to put the Ravin R10 to the test and can already tell you that we had a lot of fun with the crossbow for this review and we will have a lot of fun with the crossbow in the coming years because the R10 is built to last.

In the package we found the Ravin R10 crossbow with Predator Dusk Camo, a 100 yard illuminated long-range scope, three Ravin arrows(300 grain) with nocks and 100 grain practice points, a detachable cocking handle, mounting bracket, and a Ravin user manual.

The crossbow comes in the exclusive to Ravin crossbows, Predator Dusk Camo, and is also available in Gunmetal grey camo.

Ravin R10 Crossbow Specs

Design and Construction

The Ravin R10 is significantly more compact compared to its predecessor, the R9 Predator. The R10 measures a total length of 33 inches, an axle to axle width of 10.5 inches uncocked, and only 6 inches when cocked. The Ravin R10 tips our scales at 6.8 pounds.

The Ravin R10 is a lightweight crossbow that is highly maneuverable, the crossbow is suited for run and gun situations and easy to handle in tight spaces such as hunting blinds,

Ravin is of course famous for its patented Helicoil technology. Crossbows with Helicoil have a number of design advantages, and it allows the Frictionless Flight system to work.

The R10 features Helicoil technology and the Frictionless Flight System. Helicoil allows the cams to rotate 340-degrees, generating higher speeds with better accuracy. With a traditional crossbow, the entire arrow rests on the rail.

The Helicoil system allows an arrow to float freely, eliminating energy loss due to friction. The Helicoil cams ensure that the cable barely touches the rails and there is no downward pressure on the cable. As a result, the cable is not slowed down and barely wears.

Scope

The Ravin scope is a high-end 100 yard crossbow scope that is made of high-quality materials. The scope features fully coated lenses with red and green illuminated reticles. The scope is crystal clear to look through and performs well. The Ravin scope is fog-free and waterproof and contains shock and kickback resistant technology.

Cocking mechanism

The R10 is equipped with a built-in crank cocking mechanism, the so-called Versa-Draw cocking system. This cocking mechanism reduces the crossbow’s draw weight to a mere 12 pounds of force. The cocking handle is of course detachable.

The Versa-Draw cocking mechanism also ensures that the crossbow is cocked 100 percent evenly for an extra clean shot. Cocking by hand is not possible, because of this you are not able to release half-cocked.

Trigger

The Ravin R10 comes with Ravin’s Tac Trigger Fire System. It is a crisp 4 pound trigger that gives you control over the shot. Shooting with the Tac trigger system is not noiseless but very quiet and with little vibration. The trigger system contains anti-dry fire technology to prevent the crossbow from dry firing.

Range Test

The Ravin R10 is a fast and powerful crossbow that shoots arrows with speeds up to 400 feet per second and is capable of delivering 142 KE knockdown power.

We used the Ravin arrows(300 grain) to speed test the Ravin R10. On our chronograph, we measured speeds in the range of 360-380 feet per second.

The R10 is an extremely accurate crossbow. The superb stability of the crossbow combined with Helicoil technology and the excellent 100-yard scope make the R10 one of the most accurate crossbows available on the market today.

WARNING: DO NOT USE NON-RAVIN ARROWS OR NOCKS WITH YOUR RAVIN CROSSBOW.

Assembly

The Ravin R10 comes fully assembled and with a Ravin crossbow manual. You only have to mount the scope, attach the side mount quiver, and accessory bracket. It takes a couple of shots to finetune the scope.

Install the scope

Tho install the scope first attach the bottom rings on the rail. Lay the scope into the bottom rings. Place the top rings on the bottom rings so the scope is surrounded. Lighty snug up the screws on the top rings so you can still freely move the scope in the rings. Adjust the scope until you find the furthest point forward to ensure maximum eye relief (at least 2 inches from your eye) that allows you to see a full field of view.

Remove the elevation turret cap and place a level on the elevation turret. Rotate the scope in the rings until it is level with your the crossbow limbs. Tighten the upper rings, alternating between front and back screws, while still keeping an eye on your scope levels. Keep slightly tightening and alternating from front to back until secure. Rotate the FPS selection dial to match the manufacturer’s advertised speed.

Attach the quiver

Attach the mounting bracket to the bottom of the Ravin R10. Screw the mounting bracket into the hole on the bottom of the Picatinny rail with the sloped surfaces on the mounting bracket pointing forward.

To attach the Quiver to the mounting bracket, press and hold the thumb release on the mounting bracket. Position the posts of the quiver in the holes on the mounting bracket with the hood facing forward. Release the thumb release to lock the Quiver in place.

Reverse the process to remove the quiver from your crossbow. The quiver can be mounted on either side of the mounting bracket. Most right-handed shooters prefer to locate the quiver on the right side.

Attaching and removing the cocking handle

To attach the Cocking Handle to the mounting bracket, press and hold the thumb release on the mounting bracket. Position the posts of the Handle in the holes on the mounting bracket with the Cocking Handle head facing forward. Release the thumb release to lock the Cocking Handle in place. Reverse the process to remove the Cocking Handle.

Recommended Accessories

Arrows & Broadheads

We recommend using 400 grain Ravin Arrows. These arrows are made from 100 percent pure carbon and offer quiet, hard-hitting performance. They feature brass inserts and aluminum nock bushings.

Combine the arrows with Ravin’s mechanical broadheads. These broadheads are optimised for crossbows with velocities of up to 450 feet per second.

Storage and Transportation

We recommend a Ravin R182 Hard-Shell crossbow case to properly store and carry the Ravin R10.

We recommend Ravin’s R260 padded crossbow shoulder sling. It is an adjustable 2 1/2-inch wide padded non-slip sling with a neoprene design.

You can keep arrowheads you find on private land

Although different places have different laws, anything you find on public land (national parks, for example) is off-limits. What you find on private land that you have permission to look for arrowheads on is legal. Different laws apply in different places, but that is the general rule.

If arrowheads are on the surface, can you pick them up on public land?

No. Even if you don’t dig for the arrowheads, picking up arrowheads on public land is not allowed. There is always a fine per artifact if you collect arrowheads on public land.

It is not usually a felony to take arrowheads illegally, but you should look for arrowheads respectfully and legally. Look for arrowheads on private land with the owner’s permission.

A large majority of the land in Texas and elsewhere is privately owned, and a large majority of arrowheads can be found on this land. You aren’t missing out on anything special if you don’t look for arrowheads on public land.

In most states, you can’t dig up an archeological site even on private land that you have permission to use. There are laws against digging up archeological sites.

However, it can be legal to dig for artifacts in Texas because of property rights. The property owner gets to decide what happens to an archeological site on their land.

Any of the following are public land:

• National parks
• National forests
• Bureau of land management land
• National monuments

There are privately owned lakes that the public is allowed to use, where you may find arrowheads. It is usually legal to find arrowheads at these locations.

Are public waterways off-limits?

It depends on what state you are in. For example, it is legal in Missouri but illegal in Florida. Riverbeds are a good place to find arrowheads, but make sure it is legal.

Often, anything you find in a river is the property of the state, so it may be illegal to take anything you find. It can be illegal to dive for arrowheads without a permit.

Trespassing laws usually do not cover rivers. If the river is big enough to take a canoe down easily, it is usually legal to use the river. Check the laws in your state.

Is it legal to dig for arrowheads?

It is not legal to dig up archeological sites. Digging for artifacts on Federal land or Indian reservations is illegal under the Archaeological Resources Protection Act of 1979.

The act is there to protect sites valuable to archeologists from being dug up by amateurs who will not learn valuable archeological information. The laws also protect native cultural heritage sites. It is considered looting to dig up a burial mound.

Oddly, the laws do not apply to natural artifacts, such as dinosaur fossils. You can dig for fossils on public land. Fossils are considered paleontological rather than archeological, so the act does not apply.

Digging up burial mounds is disrespectful and illegal. You cannot dig up an area where you find human remains or assume you are likely to find them even on your own property.

It is not necessary to illegally dig up burial sites to find good arrowheads. One of the best places to find arrowheads is near rivers, where it is usually legal to look for arrowheads.

You can also find arrowheads after a flood, even a small flood that does not damage any property. When a river floods, it disturbs the ground and can uncover artifacts.

The 1979 act does not apply to private land, so it is legal to dig for arrowheads. The owner of the property must be willing to let you dig, or else you could be charged with damaging their property. You cannot dig up human burial sites even on private property.

How do the laws in Texas compare to laws in other states?

In Texas, property owners decide what happens to artifacts on their land. This reinforces the legality of digging up sites without having an archeological permit.

If you find artifacts on someone else’s property and you have permission from the owner to keep what you find, you can take and sell the arrowheads. Texas property rights mean that the owner can decide to do what they want with archeological sites on their property.

Do a lot of people look for artifacts illegally?

Yes, some antique dealers illegally dig up sites on private property to find artifacts to sell. Some even hire people to dig up sites at night. This is illegal and unethical for many reasons, including because it damages the owner’s property.

Artifacts found by archeologists are taken out of the ground carefully while collecting as much information as possible. They take detailed notes and photograph everything as it is removed from the ground.

If someone digs up a burial mound without notes and photographs, it stops being possible to learn as much about the site as archeologists could have.

Campsites are not quite the same as burial mounds. It may be more ethical or legal to dig up campsites. The best place to find arrowheads is on or near the surface.

How old are the oldest arrowheads in Texas?

Projectile points as much as 16000 years old have been found in Texas. These spear or dart points are some of the oldest tools ever found in the Americas.

This surprised the discoverers, who did not expect to find anything that old in Texas. The points are more than 2000 years older than anything previously found in the area.

How long ago people came to the Americas is not known for sure. A conservative estimate is still only about 16000 years, roughly as old as the recent finds in Texas. Most archeologists believe 20,000 years is the best estimate.

However, evidence is building up in favor of much earlier dates. There may have been people in the Americas for about twice that long.

Even how people reached the Americas is disputed. Arguably, some people reached South America from Australia and Melanesia at a very early date. Many people came from Siberia to Alaska, but other people may have reached the Americans in other ways.