By Wade Bourne

For some waterfowlers, the words “public hunting area” conjure up images of crowded boat ramps, fierce competition for spots, and incessant calling. Others shrug off these annoyances and point to the bountiful waterfowl hunting opportunities available on national wildlife refuges, wildlife management areas, and other public lands. Both perceptions are correct to some extent.

Managed public lands typically attract plenty of ducks. They also draw large numbers of hunters. Here are seven surefire strategies to help you bag more birds on these come-one, come-all waterfowl hunting areas:

1. Locate the Best Spots

It’s a fact: certain spots are simply duck magnets. For a variety of reasons, some places on public hunting areas consistently attract more birds than others. Hunters who learn the best spots and gain access to them will experience more consistent shooting than those who don’t.

Here’s an example. Years ago my partners and I were hunting on a public wade-in area in west Tennessee. All waterfowlers were assigned to numbered sites on a first-come, first-served basis. Through experience, we learned about a secluded spot in the back of the area that was a veritable honey hole. It was just one of those places where mallards and other puddle ducks wanted to be.

Other hunters also knew this was a good spot, so we made it a point to be the first to get there whenever we hunted it. We would get up early enough to arrive at the blind an hour before legal shooting time, and wait in the dark. Hunters who showed up later had to go elsewhere. I don’t ever remember getting to this spot an hour early and finding someone else already there.

The takeaway: ferret out the good spots. Ask the area manager or a local conservation officer to point out the places that consistently draw more birds. Check harvest reports for blinds or specific units that have the best track record. Scout during nonhunting periods to learn where the ducks want to be.

Blinds on some public hunting areas are allocated ahead of time via drawings. Other blinds and sites are assigned on a daily basis. In either case, hunters who know the best spots can make informed selections when their turn to choose comes around. Learn where the best places are and go all out to claim them, and you’ll bag more ducks.

2. Hunt When Others Don’t

As a rule, the less pressure a public area receives the better the hunting will be. This is why hunting on weekdays is usually more productive than hunting on weekends, when more waterfowlers go afield. Other good times to hunt include holidays, opening days of hunting seasons for other game, and when extreme weather keeps many hunters indoors.

Here’s another scenario. If a popular local wildlife management area (WMA) is gunned heavily on weekends and rested on Monday and Tuesday, hunt it on Wednesday. Your chance for a good hunt should be higher on the first day the area reopens to hunting.

Certain times of day might also offer less competition and better hunting. Ducks often become programmed by hunting pressure. If pressure is heavy early but slackens as the morning wears on, the ducks might start feeding later in the day, when the disturbance from hunters is lower.

The point is, be alert for any opportunity to hunt on public areas when other hunters aren’t likely to show up. If you’re there when others aren’t, your odds of enjoying a good shoot will increase.

3. Hunt Where Others Can’t

He who works the hardest often fares the best. True of life in general, this old adage also applies to duck hunting. Here’s a shining example. Several years ago I wrote an article about two hunters from Little Rock, Arkansas, who frequented the state’s renowned Bayou Meto WMA. Bayou Meto’s flooded timber draws a lot of birds, but this area also has a reputation for drawing big crowds.

These two hunters made a habit of venturing into the most inaccessible reaches of Bayou Meto. They would motor as long as they had sufficient water to float their boat. Then they would climb out and start wading into thick, brushy woods through water that was only a few inches deep. This was where mallards liked to go to escape the hunting pressure in more popular-and more accessible-areas.

By working hard, these two hunters left the crowds behind and went where the ducks wanted to be. They outthought and outworked their competitors, and in doing so they consistently bagged limits of greenheads.

To increase your chances of success, hunt outside the box. Seek out and explore places that are hard to reach. Study maps and aerial photographs to find spots where ducks may go to escape hunting pressure. Learn to use a GPS-an invaluable tool for exploring backcountry. Consider hiking and wading in or using a Go-Devil boat and motor, a canoe, a kayak, or any other means of accessing new territory.

4. Hunt Multiple Areas

Don’t put all your eggs in one basket. Many states have multiple WMAs and refuges in close proximity to each other. As weather and habitat conditions change, waterfowl will move around from one place to another to take advantage of new opportunities to feed and rest. At times, ducks trade between these areas like Saturday-morning yard-sale shoppers. Hunters who keep up with the ducks’ movements and follow them can stay in the birds, while those who stick to one spot are likely to experience hit-or-miss shooting.

Several years ago, a friend and I towed a boat-blind rig to Kansas. We scouted several small public reservoirs and found few ducks, before finally hitting the jackpot. One lake was hosting several thousand mallards. These birds were flying out at dawn to feed in surrounding grainfields, then returning to the lake to rest in midmorning. My partner and I bagged easy limits of close-working greenheads from the same spot four days in a row. We did so because we were mobile. We kept moving and looking until we found the ducks.

Don’t be a homesteader. Instead, draw up an itinerary that includes several public hunting areas within a specified region, and keep moving and prospecting until you find ducks.

5. Stand Out in a Crowd

On public hunting areas, tactics that grab the attention of working ducks are often more effective in tolling birds than a more passive approach. Nowhere is this more evident than on Tennessee’s Reelfoot Lake. In a setting where blinds are close together and many hunters vie for the same ducks, professional guides often put out permanent spreads that sometimes number in the thousands of decoys. They also employ multiple wing-spinners and other motion decoys. And they are expert practitioners of Reelfoot’s legendary aggressive calling style-loud, continuous, and demanding. Sometimes several callers work together to capture and hold ducks’ attention as the birds circle and descend into shooting range.

This is not to imply that you have to put out as big a spread, add as much motion, or call as loud as a Reelfoot guide when you hunt on public land. Each situation is different. But you will gain an edge over the competition if you set out more decoys than the hunters around you, add some motion to your spread, and use insistent calling to attract the attention of passing ducks.

You can grab the attention of ducks in other ways as well. Make your decoys more noticeable by adding white to your spread in the form of pintail or spoonbill drakes. Or paint a few decoys flat black. These stark colors are more visible at long distances than drab-colored or faded decoys. Sometimes flagging draws long-range ducks as well as it does geese. Do whatever you have to do to get noticed, and you’ll have better odds of bringing birds into your decoys.

6. Hunt in Favorable Weather

Waterfowlers who time their hunts to coincide with favorable weather conditions can stack the odds in their favor. Frontal passages, heavy rain, snow, cold snaps, rapid thaws, fog, high winds, and other weather conditions can cause ducks and geese to move and be more eager to work to decoys and calls.

You should always keep an eye on the weather and plan to hunt when new birds are likely to arrive, or when “local” birds are more prone to move around. On classic waterfowling days, the migration is in full swing and new arrivals often work with reckless abandon. Exceptional gunning can also be had when a weather change causes ducks that are already in the area to become more active.

Here’s a good example. A friend of mine hunted on a WMA in Missouri a few years back. Nighttime temperatures froze the flooded cornfields where ducks had been feeding, but by midmorning the temperatures rose into the 40s and melted the ice. The ducks responded by feeding later in the morning. My friend observed this pattern and began hunting between 9 a.m. and 10 a.m. By then, other hunters were giving up and heading in, but my buddy was ready when the ducks showed up for brunch. He took a full limit of greenheads several days in a row.

Public waterfowling can go from slow to red hot when weather changes move the birds. Hunters who understand this and adapt accordingly can increase their chances for a banner shoot.

7. Remain Flexible

Finally, if the ducks aren’t coming your way, try something different. Change locations, calling styles, decoy strategies, and so on. Keep your options open, and remain adaptable and mobile.

When hunting public areas, it’s crucial to prepare for several options so you can quickly switch to a backup plan if you need to. If plan A isn’t working, go to plan B, and then to plan C.

When it comes to public waterfowl hunting, dealing with other duck hunters can be just as important as dealing with the ducks. The Golden Rule should always apply. If hunters would be considerate of each other and treat others the way they’d like to be treated, hunting on public areas would be a lot more enjoyable and productive for everybody. That’s a fact that’s as true as it is simple.

Continue Reading

Having survived prowling predators, the whitetail fawn now matures.

Spring gives way to warm days as the summer season nears. Pesky insects start to dominate the woodlots and open fields. For the young whitetails that survived the pursuit of predators, now their lives of growing into mature deer begin to unfold.

If the parenting female doesn’t reject her offspring, which is usually due to nutritional stress, a hormonal imbalance, inexperienced first-time mothers or disease, then the process of maternal guidance is under way.

The deer fawn, although it possesses certain inborn survival instincts, still takes its lead from its mother. Foremost are concealed bedding sites, which are pre-chosen by the mother. If these locales remain undisturbed, she will use them year after year — especially if she has raised young before.

These bedding sites are essential for the fawn to conserve energy and digest nutrients for growth. The fawn is growing rapidly by now, but it still spends the majority of time bedding.

By its mother’s vocal commands and through scent-bonding, the fawn learns where these sites are within days after birth. Bedding locales, through the mother’s lead, are reinforced. The fawn can also go to bed on its own or by her cue as it matures. Besides nutrition, this aspect of the fawn’s development is crucial as to whether the infant survives and properly matures.

The mother also guides the newborn to specific feeding areas, and of course, the fawn quickly learns where the nutrients are. Besides periodically nursing from its mother, the deer fawn within just a few weeks after birth is able to forage on its own. Yet it’s still dependent on the protein content of its mother’s milk.

Deer researchers have determined that the nourishing milk of whitetails is high not only in protein but fat and vitamins as well. It also possesses colostrum, which is basically an antibiotic to resist disease.

These bedding sites and feeding locales are continually imprinted through the mother’s scent and visual guidance. Along with its inborn instincts for survival, the newborn learns to adapt and survive.

At times, the fawn is highly frisky — darting to and fro from its mother and other deer. Here, the young deer sharpens its skill to evade predators. Also, playful behavior is associated with the social order of deer as well. These behaviors and responses from the herd can determine the fawn’s status within the herd even at a young age. However, this socialization is usually more intense with female fawns than young bucks, which will eventually disperse on their own.

If nutrition and fertility are on course, females can easily give birth to twin fawns. The two youngsters are usually close together, and tend to watch out for one another. Overall, if the doe isn’t a first-time mother, her offspring from previous years will also put their eyes and ears to work — staying keen to predators. Although there are exceptions, this is typically the trend once the fawns are mature enough and accepted into the fold of older deer.

Although a button buck usually stays with its mother during its first year, there are rare situations when the young male unites with a bachelor group of bucks. Otherwise, the button buck stays with the female clan — eventually going out on its own the following year. Also, button bucks can be forced away temporarily by both dominant males and breeding females when procreation calls during the rutting season.

Gradually, the parenting female begins to shun the buck fawn — sometimes kicking and swatting at it when it attempts to nurse. She may even actually kick and charge the young male. Although the infant may stay within her range through the winter, she usually doesn’t show it any maternal attention by then.

A normal buck fawn can be rejected by its mother, yet it can also be naturally inclined to disperse on its own as well. The instinct to procreate drives it to seek out mates. In time, he leaves the doe herd on his own — even if the mother doesn’t drive him off.

Whether the button buck is on its own or within the close-knit clan of its mother and her offspring, it can easily be mistaken for a female deer — especially if antlerless harvest is on the agenda. Here, proper identification of a young male deer is crucial when certain laws are implemented for taking whitetails or if one is practicing QDM. Although it’s currently legal to take a young button buck without a polished antler above the hairline, most hunters want to pass on young males — giving them the opportunity to grow and mature. Simply, button bucks are considered to be an antlerless harvest. However, always check the current regulations to be sure the law hasn’t changed.

A button buck usually stands out from females. Of course, by the end of the summer, most female and male deer fawns have lost their spots. Body formations are a way to distinguish male from female. Young male deer have shorter necks and are somewhat squared in comparison to long-necked does. Usually the female is longer than the button buck. He also tends to wander from the females from time to time, and forages on his own.

Basically the fastest way to determine a button buck is to look for small growth on its forehead where the pedicels are located between its ears. Usually by the fall, some button bucks actually have small, undeveloped antlers protruding up, but are covered by hair. Depending on nutrition and genetics, some button bucks may even sprout a small set of spikes, but this is extremely rare.

The following year is when antler growth becomes more noticeable as the button buck grows and matures into a 1½-year-old antlered deer.

Female fawns usually stay with the doe clan for a couple of years or until they become first-time mothers.

For whitetails to reach maturity and maintain procreation, nutrition and the quality thereof is extremely important. That’s next month’s topic.

These bright fungi are rather unusual looking, and if you’re trying them for the first time, you may be a little skeptical about their edibility.

But they’re extremely popular with foragers, very versatile in the kitchen and many people consider them the best mushroom to substitute for chicken.

So, if you’re looking for a healthy vegetarian alternative to chicken and live in an area where they thrive, these may be the perfect mushrooms for you.

Read on to learn more about chicken of the woods mushrooms, including where they grow, how to correctly identify them, what they taste like and how to harvest, store, clean and cook them.

What Are Chicken of The Woods Mushrooms?

Chicken of the woods mushrooms are striking, brightly-colored edible mushrooms that grow on old, dying or dead trees.

They’re the fruiting bodies of polypore, bracket fungi and appear in large tiered clusters of bright yellow to orange mushrooms with fan-shaped caps.

They’re occasionally parasitic on elderly trees where they cause brown rot, but usually saprotrophic, feeding on dead and decaying hardwood trees.

There are several species of chicken of the woods mushrooms that vary slightly in color and taste. Three of the most common are Laetiporus sulphureus, Laetiporus cincinnatus and Laetiporus gilbertsonii.

All three produce delicious edible mushrooms that look similar but grow on different trees.

Like other mushrooms, chicken of the woods has several names, including sulfur shelf or chicken mushrooms, sulfur shelf fungus or chicken fungus.

Can You Eat Chicken of the Woods Mushroom?

Yes, you can eat chicken of the woods, and it gets its name from the fact that its dense fibrous flesh has a texture very similar to cooked chicken.

Where Does Chicken of the Woods Grow?

Chicken of the woods grow in deciduous woodlands, and you’ll find them in a range of woodland habitats, including the edges of natural forests and urban parks and gardens.

They’re widespread in the United Kingdom, North America, and Europe and are most often found growing on trunks or stumps of deciduous hardwood trees like oaks, maples and beeches.

But you’ll sometimes find them growing on willow, wild cherry, sweet chestnut, eucalyptus and yew.

Laetiporus sulphureus and Laetiporus cincinnatus enjoy oak and beech trees, while Laetiporus gilbertsonii is usually found on oak or eucalyptus trees.

Some mycologists advise against harvesting chicken of the woods mushrooms that grow on yew trees as they could absorb the toxic alkaloids found in the yew tree. But others report having eaten these mushrooms without incident.

Is Chicken of the Woods Hard to Find?

Chicken of the woods are not hard to find, but although they’re brightly colored, easy to identify and relatively common, it’s not always as easy to find them at the right stage for eating, and you have to know where to look.

They grow best on dead and dying oak trees and enjoy humid, low-lying locations and cool temperatures. But can be unpredictable and will fruit throughout the year when conditions are favorable.

Usually, the best time to find them is fall, but foragers report coming across them anywhere from late spring through to fall, especially after heavy rains.

You’ll often find chicken of the woods growing on the same tree or log year after year until the fungus has fully decomposed the wood.

So once you have found a flush of chicken of the woods mushrooms, you can return to the same spot the following year when conditions are right and will hopefully discover more.

Where to Buy Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

If the thought of finding and identifying chicken of the woods mushrooms in the wild is intimidating, don’t worry.

Chicken of the woods mushrooms are sought after, and in many places, you’ll find fresh chicken of the woods at local farmer’s markets or specialty food stores.

Some CSA projects also offer foraged or homegrown mushrooms as part of their weekly food parcel and may include chicken of the woods.

How to Identify Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

Chicken of the woods are very striking and have few look-alikes making them an ideal species for beginner mushroom foragers.

They grow in overlapping layers, resemble small wavy shelves and vary in appearance from smooth to finely wrinkled.

Their broad fan-shaped caps can get very big and range from 2 to 12 inches (5 to 30 cm) across, with a velvet or suede-like feel when young that becomes leathery as they mature.

Chicken of the woods are polypores, meaning they do not have gills. Instead, the underside of their caps have lots of tiny tubes that look like pores, and these produce their spores.

Chicken of the woods mushrooms don’t have stems, the brackets emerge directly from the tree, but they sometimes have short pseudo or “false stems” that are actually part of the cap.

Their color varies from species to species, and as they mature, their bright colors fade and change, becoming tan or light brown.

The upper surface of Laetiporus sulphureus, often called the sulfur shelf mushroom, is orange-red to orange-yellow, usually with bright yellow wavy edges. The underside is bright sulfurous yellow with tiny pores.

Laetiporus cincinnatus, also known as the white-pored chicken of the woods, has a pale pinkish to peachy colored upper surface, and the underside is white with tiny pores.

The upper surface of Laetiporus gilbertsonii is pale pinkish orange or orangish-yellow, and the pore surface varies from lemon-yellow to pale lemon-yellow.

Chicken of the Woods vs. Hen of the Woods

Chicken of the woods and Hen of the woods are very different mushrooms. And although they’re not look-alikes, their similar names often cause confusion.

Hen of the woods or maitake is a delicious edible polypore mushroom that grows in clusters at the base of hardwood trees. And like some chicken of the woods prefers oaks.

But this is where the similarity ends.

Hen of the woods mushrooms have flattened brown caps with white edges and get their name from the fact that the dense cluster of mushrooms resembles the ruffled feathers of a sitting hen.

Chicken of the woods is brightly colored, looks nothing like a hen and gets its name because, when cooked, its taste and texture are similar to chicken meat.

Hen of the woods mushrooms taste nothing like chicken and have a rich earthy aroma and taste and unique texture.

How to Harvest Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

It’s easiest to harvest chicken of the woods with a sharp knife, but some foragers pull the entire cluster off the tree.

Pulling often results in more wood particles and dirt that you’ll have to clean off the mushrooms later. It also damages the decomposing wood, which may result in fewer mushrooms the following year.

With a sharp knife you can harvest the entire cluster by cutting it off at the base or trim tender bits off the edges of mature caps.

Harvesting chicken of the woods mushrooms at the right stage is important if you want to eat them fresh.

When is the Best Time to Harvest Chicken of the Woods?

The best time to harvest chicken of the woods mushrooms is when they are still young, with vibrant colors and a firm, slightly spongy texture.

They grow fast and can get past their prime in as little as 2 to 3 days, so if you find young chicken of the woods, it’s best to harvest them the same day or come back the following day.

Immature chicken of the woods mushrooms appear from dead trees as bumpy cyst-like knobs and a few days later start forming brackets.

They’re most tender before the brackets form. If you find them at this stage, it’s the perfect time to harvest them.

Prime edible chicken of the woods usually have brackets less than 8 inches (20cm) across with moist flesh, bright colors and a pleasant mushroomy smell. When crushed, they exude a watery, yellowish liquid.

As they mature and their brackets expand, the center part becomes tougher, but the outer edges remain tender. They also often become hosts to bugs and worms that enjoy their flesh.

At this stage, some foragers feel it’s best to cut off any soft sections on the edges and leave the rest for the bugs. But others harvest the entire cluster and use any tough sections to make a deciduous, savory chicken of the woods mushroom powder.

When a chicken of the woods reaches full maturity, the entire mushroom becomes tough and woody, and the colors fade.

At this stage it’s way past its prime and probably best left in the woods, although some people still use mature chicken of the woods for mushroom powder.

Chicken of the Woods Mushroom Look-Alikes

Chicken of the woods is one of the easiest mushroom species to identify, and there are no false chicken of the woods mushrooms.

Although some bright mushrooms may look similar from a distance, it’s easy to tell them apart when you get closer.

Bright yellow to orange mushrooms that grow in similar conditions are delicious edible chanterelles, parasitic honey mushrooms and toxic jack-o-lanterns.

But none of these mushrooms are bracket fungi, and they all have gills, so a quick look at the underside of their caps will quickly remove any confusion.

There is one polypore fungus, Phaeolus schweinitzii, that people sometimes confuse with chicken of the woods. It’s called the velvet-top fungus or dyer’s polypore.

It grows in similar conditions to chicken of the woods and, when young, is often bright yellow or orange, but the upper surface of the fan-shaped cap is velvety brown in the center.

The velvet-top fungus is not poisonous. But it’s also not edible as it has a very tough texture. People use these mushrooms to make natural green, yellow, gold, or brown fabric dyes, hence their second name.

Can You Grow Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms at Home?

You can grow chicken of the woods mushrooms at home, both indoors on sawdust blocks and outdoors on logs.

They’re one of the more challenging species to grow indoors, as colonization takes a very long time.

Because of this, indoor cultivation is usually only recommended for experienced growers who’ll enjoy the challenge.

But, if you have a shady spot in your garden, it’s easy to grow them outdoors on large-diameter logs and stumps. They prefer oak but will grow on most hardwood logs.

To inoculate the logs or stumps, you’ll need to drill holes in them, insert plug spawn or sawdust spawn and seal the holes with wax.

It takes six months to a year from when you inoculate your logs for the first flush of mushrooms. But then you should get mushrooms from your logs for another 3 to 5 years.

Our ultimate guide to growing mushrooms on logs takes you through this process step-by-step.

What Does Chicken of the Woods Mushroom Taste Like?

Chicken of the woods mushrooms have a mild flavor with lemony undertones that people describe as similar to chicken, lobster or crab.

But it’s their sinewy texture, so similar to succulent cooked chicken meat, that gives them their name and makes them a great meat replacement in vegetarian and vegan dishes.

Like other mushrooms, chicken of the woods absorbs liquids well and will take on the flavors of other ingredients in dishes.

Can You Eat Chicken of the Woods Mushroom Raw?

You should not eat raw chicken of the woods mushrooms as they may cause stomach problems.

In fact, chefs advise cooking them thoroughly and, if necessary, boiling them before sauteing them to ensure they’re cooked through.

Some people are allergic to chicken of the woods mushrooms even when well cooked.

As with any mushroom you’re eating for the first time, it’s best to try a small portion first to see if you have any allergic reactions.

How to Clean Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

If you’ve harvested an entire cluster of chicken of the woods, the first step is to separate the brackets and trim off any woody bits, bruises and insect damage.

Chicken of the woods growing at the base of tree trunks can sometimes get extremely dirty. Foragers recommend brushing them gently with a soft-bristle brush or wiping them with a damp cloth to remove any loose dust and debris.

You can also rinse them under cold running water to remove stubborn dirt. Then pat them dry with a clean paper or kitchen towel. Avoid soaking chicken of the woods as they’ll absorb a lot of water and become soggy.

Our article, “How to Clean Mushrooms: A Step-by-Step Guide,” has more information on the best ways to clean mushrooms.

How to Store Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

Here are three of the easiest ways to store your chicken of the woods mushrooms:

1. In the Refrigerator

You can store fresh chicken of the woods for 7 to 10 days in the refrigerator in a paper bag or breathable fabric bag, but there are a few things to remember to help them last longer:

• Store them on a shelf in your fridge, not in the crisper drawer.
• Take care not to place them next to strong-smelling foods.
• Avoid putting anything on top of them, as young mushrooms bruise easily.

Also, do not wash your chicken of the woods until just before you plan on using them.

2. In the Freezer

Because chicken of the woods often grows in large groups of several clusters, you’ll often end up with more than you can fit in your fridge or eat in a week.

In cases like this, you need long-term storage solutions, and freezing and drying are the best options for chicken of the woods.

Unlike most other mushrooms that need cooking before freezing, raw chicken of the woods freezes well and retains its meaty texture when defrosted.

To store chicken of the woods in the freezer, first trim and clean them and pat them dry or place them on a kitchen towel to dry.

Ensure they’re dry before freezing them because if you freeze them wet, they won’t retain their texture, and you’ll end up with soft mushy mushrooms.

Place the clean, dry chicken of the woods into ziplock bags or vacuum pack them and then freeze them. They’ll last for up to a year in the freezer.

3. Drying

If you plan on using your chicken of the woods in soups and stews, then drying them is also an excellent way to preserve them long term.

Trim, wash and dry your mushrooms, then slice them into half-inch (1.3 cm) pieces and dry them in a food dehydrator. Once dry, you can store them in an airtight jar or ziplock bag. They’ll last a year or more when kept in a cool and dry location.

You can also blend or grind your dried mushrooms to make chicken of the woods mushrooms powder for seasoning dishes. This is the best way to use older mushrooms that are too tough to eat but still have lots of flavor.

How to Cook Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

Like other mushrooms, chicken of the woods is very versatile with many culinary applications.

You can fry, saute, blanch, roast or bake chicken of the woods and use them as you would other mushrooms or as a substitute for chicken or tofu in recipes.

What is Chicken of the Woods Mushroom Good For?

One of the easiest ways to enjoy the flavor and texture of these mushrooms is to sauté them in olive oil with garlic, shallots, white wine and fresh herbs.

But they also work well in pasta dishes, curries, casseroles, risottos and egg-based dishes like quiches, omelets and frittatas.

Below is a chicken of the woods mushroom recipe that really makes the most of their similarity to chicken meat.

And to provide more inspiration, we have put together 30 of our favorite mushroom recipes as well as 25 delicious vegan mushroom recipes.

Crispy Fried Chicken of the Woods Recipe

This recipe, adapted from the Forager Chef, uses the traditional chicken fried steak recipe to create tender, juicy mushroom steaks with a crispy outer coating.

You can serve these delicious steaks with any sauce and your choice of vegetables, creating endless possibilities.

Ingredients

• 4 pieces of young chicken of the woods, around 2 oz (57 grams) or the size of a smallish fist
• 1 cup all-purpose flour or as needed for breading.
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 pinch of sweet paprika
• 1 small pinch of cayenne pepper
• 3 eggs beaten
• 4 tablespoons of cooking oil
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• A few sprigs of fresh thyme (optional)
• 1 small clove of garlic, crushed (optional)
• Lemon wedges for serving

Instructions

1. Trim off the tough parts of your chicken of the woods mushrooms, rinse and dry them well, as this helps the seasonings adhere.
2. In a bowl, combine the flour with salt, pepper, paprika and cayenne to taste, and place the beaten eggs in another bowl.
3. Toss the mushrooms first in flour, then in egg, then in flour again.
4. Heat a pan and add the cooking oil and butter. When the butter has melted, add your breaded chicken of the woods, the crushed clove of garlic, and the thyme.
5. Sauté the chicken of the woods until they are golden brown on each side, about 4-5 minutes, adding extra oil or butter if the pan gets dry.
6. When ready, remove the mushrooms from the pan, quickly blot them on a paper towel to remove excess oil, sprinkle with salt and serve immediately.

Health and Nutritional Benefits of Chicken of the Woods

Like many other mushrooms, chicken of the woods is high in protein and digestive fiber and low in fat, making it a healthy meat replacement.

It’s also a good source of potassium, vitamin C and vitamin A.

The nutritional value of chicken of the woods varies depending on the environment and growing conditions.

But studies on the nutritional value and chemical composition of chicken of the woods show that, on average, a 100g serving contains:

• 6 g of dietary fiber
• 21g of Protein
• 2g of fat
• 150mg of potassium

Chicken of the woods also contains numerous bioactive compounds with antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-tumor properties.

Final Thoughts

Chicken of the woods are delicious, edible mushrooms that are more often foraged than cultivated.

If you’re fortunate enough to live somewhere they grow, you could find fresh chicken of the woods in the wild, at your local farmers market or even grow them outdoors on logs.

Because they often grow in large clumps, you’ll have enough mushrooms to last a while and can store them in the freezer for a year-round supply of tender, meaty mushroom steaks.

To learn more about mushrooms and how they grow, visit our Mushroom Education Hub.

And if you’re hoping to grow mushrooms at home, our Mushroom Growing Hub has loads of valuable resources to help you get started.

Ever wondered how big is a moose compared to a human? Adult Moose usually measure up to 9 feet (2.8 meters) in terms of body length. Compared to a human, the average moose has a much bigger body overall, while also having a total body mass that is in the range of ten times that of a person at the same height.

A common sight in the colder regions of North America, moose are generally friendly creatures that pose little of a threat when approached. They’re known for their distinctive calls, deer-like antlers, and their bulbous noses that make them easy to tell apart from deer or elk.

But how big can a moose get, compared to a human?

Moose are the biggest representatives of the deer family, and a single look at one will tell you why. Larger than any horse, deer, or other hoofed animals, the moose towers above most mammals including us humans. If you want to know more fascinating facts about moose and their impressive bodies, feel free to take a look at our quick fact sheet below!

Related Reading: Do Moose Come Out in the Rain?

How Tall is a Moose?

While it is easy to see that moose are incredibly massive animals, and their bodies can easily dwarf those of us human beings, there is the question of how tall moose really are, not just how big overall. Being four-hoofed animals that never walk upright, the total body dimensions of a moose are a bit misleading when it comes to visualizing just how large a moose looks when put next to a human.

Adult moose measure about 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.2 meters) in height when measured at the shoulder. However, when the head and antlers are taken into account and the moose stands tall, this figure can eclipse 10 feet (3 meters).

As you can tell, the measurement of a moose’s height paints a different picture than the sole body length numbers alone – however, it should still be quite clear to see that moose are gigantic animals, and even smaller specimens will have us, humans, walking in their shadows due to their sheer mass and size.

How Big Can a Moose Get?

Over the course of a moose’s life cycle, their bodies change and develop quite radically, just like ours. Therefore, how big a moose can get depends on a few factors.We’ve laid everything out in the quick overview below. It should give you everything you need to know about the dimensions of a moose.

• First note that moose exhibit sexual dimorphism, i.e. females are of different size and appearance than males. A female moose will not grow antlers, and is on average about 60-70% the body mass of a comparable male
• There are a few recognized subspecies of moose, the largest of which is the Alaskan moose. The so-called Taiga moose, which is common across Central Europe, Russia, and parts of Kazakhstan, is noticeably smaller
• As moose age, their bodies grow larger and stronger. Male moose start growing antlers after about a year of age, and they renew them after every mating season. At their peak, the antlers alone can be over 6 feet (1.8 meters) long, somewhat shorter in the case of Eurasian moose
• Moose calves are about the same size as horse calves, but they grow very quickly and reach adult size after a year
• The biggest moose ever confirmed was a male Alaskan moose shot in 1897 – it measured 7.6 feet (230 centimeters) tall at the shoulders and weighed 1,800 pounds (816 kilograms)

Why Are Moose So Big?

While it is obvious that moose are some of the largest herbivores found in North America and Eurasia, the less obvious fact is the answer to the question of why their bodies are as massive as they are.

The truth is that moose need to be so large in order to properly survive in their natural habitat. The cold temperatures and harsh seasons that moose often experience in Alaska and Siberia have effected great evolutionary pressure on these animals – and it shows.

Moose have many tricks up their sleeves in order to cope with their home climate. For example, their many hairs are hollow on the inside, which helps them insulate for added warmth.

The incredible weight that moose pack on is also no coincidence – large volumes of fat storage provides another way to weather the freezing temperatures outside, so moose like to keep themselves well-fed.

And in turn, this excessive body weight needs to be supported by strong limbs and muscles – which is why the body of a moose needs to reach its uniquely humongous dimensions in order for these animals to thrive.

In fact, when moose are introduced to warmer climates (as is unfortunately the case more and more often these days as areas historically populated by moose undergo climate change), their bodies suffer greatly. They lose weight, experience chronic stress, and female moose will also develop fertility issues.

All in all, the short answer for why moose are so big is that they have evolved more so than almost any other four-hoofed herbivore to survive exceptionally well in the cold.

No wonder, then, that there is only one animal that shares the moose’s habitat and can rival it in size – the bison, another mammal whose gigantic body is mostly the result of evolutionary pressures intended to make it easier to survive freezing winters.

Related Reading: Can You Ride a Moose? Has It Ever Been Done?

How Big Are Moose Antlers?

The antlers are easily the most recognizable aspect of the moose’s appearance. However, just like deer, moose “renew” their antlers every season, and with each passing year the antlers grow longer, taller, and more intricate. It should also be noted that female moose (cows) never grow antlers.

The antlers of an adult male moose are typically up to 6 feet (1.8 meters) long end-to-end. The moose with the longest antlers are by far the Alaskan variety, while Eurasian moose tend to display slightly shorter specimens.

The antlers of a moose can add significantly to the animal’s overall size, though most formal measurements of moose are based on the height measured at the shoulders.

Why Are Moose Antlers So Big?

Though they add a lot of distinctiveness to the visual appearance of a moose, it is a question worth asking why moose grow their antlers to such an impressive size to begin with.

The antlers of the moose are used for display purposes, indicating a male’s sexual prowess and overall health and strength. If multiple males compete over a single female, they will actually use their antlers to fight. The victor is then generally taken to have the stronger antlers, and by extension the stronger, healthier body with the superior genes. Therefore, natural selection has led to most moose growing impressively large, intricately-shaped antlers.

The moose’s antlers might not be as significant to the animal’s daily lifestyle as most other parts of their bodies – however, when mating season strikes, their antlers are their number one tool of choice in order to attract the perfect mate. And in cases of rivalry between male moose, they can serve as potent weapons and displays of strength!

Are Moose Dangerous?

Now that you know all the basic facts about the size of the average moose you might encounter in the wild, you might be a bit worried that these large animals with their weapon-like antlers could pose a threat to your or your loved ones. But is it true that moose are dangerous animals?

While moose are certainly massive and strong enough to cause serious damage to people and their property, they are not very aggressive animals. Generally speaking, it is hard to provoke them, and incidents where moose attack humans have been incredibly rare throughout history.

The moose is not an animal that will charge or attack a random bystander for no good reason. As long as you keep your distance and do not make any moves that could be considered threatening, you should be perfectly safe.

If a moose does charge you, it is also a good idea to flee and not try to do anything to calm it or go any closer – moose can run at 35 mph (56 kph), and they generally only let go once they realize that their aggressor has given up.

Continue Reading: How Long Is Moose Meat Good in the Freezer? [ANSWERED]

The best bass poppers make a lot of noise on the water, and that is what makes them so effective. They’re one of the oldest lures, but over time, testing has lended them quite a nice hand. Now we have poppers of all different shapes and sizes that work better than ever before.

Through my personal experience and other anglers’ knowledge and expertise, I’ve put together this list of the best poppers for bass fishing. These topwater lures will help you clean house on any freshwater pond or lake, so keep reading.

Our Picks For The Best Bass Poppers

Rebel Lures Pop-R Topwater Popper

BEST BASS POPPER OVERALL

• Type: Teeny Popper
• Size: ⅛ ounce
• Color: Ol’ Bass

FEATURED SPECS

• Design of the mouth spits water which creates a loud noise and vibration to attract ornery bass

EXTRA FEATURES

• Comes with two treble hooks and a feather-like tail which improves the action and natural appearance

BUYING ADVICE

• You can use both a straight retrieval or erratic jerking to imitate an injured baitfish

Pros

• Strong company reputation
• Great topwater action
• Versatility

Cons

• Many anglers recommend swapping the hooks

It’s a no-brainer that the Rebel Pop-R is the best topwater popper for bass fishing. If you’ve ever watched a bass fishing tournament or attended one, I can guarantee you’ve seen this lure used many times. It’s won hundreds of thousands of dollars in tournament money for many professional anglers.

When you cast it out, and it hits the water, you’ll hear the pop. Then, as you’re retrieving it, the lure spits water out using the concave mouth, which creates a lot of disturbance to attract the bass.

Arbogast Hula Popper

RUNNER-UP BASS POPPER

Specs

• Type: Hula Popper
• Size: 1 ¼ – 2 ¼
• Color: Yellow Belly

FEATURED SPECS

• Features an extra-strong and sharp treble hook to make it easier to set the hook

EXTRA FEATURES

• The hula popper creates a loud popping sound when it hits the water, and it bubbles as you retrieve

BUYING ADVICE

• Locate some grass beds and cast this right in there because it’s meant to imitate a jumping frog

Pros

• Great loud presentation
• Large lure catches big bass
• Works well at night too

Cons

• The lure is a bit large for some

Here we have another legendary lure with a long-standing history of creating successful anglers out of newbies. The skirt on this one pulsates, so it creates a clicking noise as you retrieve it. You can pair that with the concave mouth that creates a bubble trail.

Arbogast Jitterbug

BEST JITTERBBUG

Specs

• Type: Jitterbug
• Size: 2 ½ inches and ⅜ ounce
• Color: 16 color variations

FEATURED SPECS

• The double cupped lip creates an extremely loud presentation when it hits the water

EXTRA FEATURES

• This lure is small, so it’s great for casting large distances

BUYING ADVICE

• Make sure to choose your color to mimic your surroundings. They offer a wide assortment of colors.

Pros

• Loud presentation
• Great casting distance
• Exceptional night time lure

Cons

• Too many buying options

It’s not often that I would say having too many lure options is a bad thing, but it is when they’re confusing. I find this lure to have too many size variations where some are jointed, and some aren’t, it makes it confusing.

If I were you, I’d go with a non-jointed small lure option and purchase a couple of them in different colors, so you have one for each situation. I highly recommend getting a black one because this lure creates such a loud presentation; you don’t need the bass to see it for night fishing.

Heddon Chug’N Spook Popper

BEST SPOOK

Specs

• Type: Popping Spook
• Size: ½ ounce
• Color: Black Shiner

FEATURED SPECS

• Thin profile allows this lure to move through the water quickly while chugging and spitting

EXTRA FEATURES

• Also comes with a loud rattle inside to add to the already loud presentation

BUYING ADVICE

• These come in both fresh and saltwater options. That makes this one of the best poppers for striped bass as well.

Pros

• Simple and effective
• Comes with a wide range of colors and sizes
• Torpedo movement through the water

Cons

• Made in China

Don’t get confused by this lure. We’re not talking about the standard Heddon spook here; the company also makes a popper with a similar design. The only difference between this and the original spook is the concave mouth.

While it does a great job of creating noise from its mouth, the ticker on this lure is the internal rattle paired with the mouth.

Rapala X-Rap Pop 07

BEST SPITTER

Specs

• Type: Spitter
• Size: 2 ¾ inches
• Color: Silver/Red

FEATURED SPECS

• Incredibly lifelike appearance meant to mimic an injured shad or minnow

EXTRA FEATURES

• Deep cupped mouth with extended top lip spits water as you retrieve it

BUYING ADVICE

• These work great near docks or low hanging trees because they have a long casting system that provides pinpoint accuracy on your cast.

Pros

• Rapala reputation is always good
• Tail-down design improves the presentation
• Great spitting action
• Lifelike appearance

Cons

• Fragile hooks

If you’ve read any of my other reviews, you know I like to stick with a great company. Rapala bass lures are some of the best on the market, and the design of this one really proves that to us.

Whether you’re looking at the arched back to create a better presentation or the precisely cupped mouth which spits water and makes noise, this lure is designed perfectly for its intended purpose.

What Are Poppers?

Poppers are a topwater lure that make a loud popping and spitting sound when they hit the water and retreat. They come in a few different designs and styles, but the selling point is the design and shape of their mouth.

These are not weedless lures because they often come with two treble hooks. You’ll want to fish these near the weeds, but not necessarily in them. Having a bit of clear water allows the design to work it’s magic.

The topwater nature of these make them a great lure for smallmouth bass but certain options like the spook also dive a little so they work well for largemouth bass too.

Types of Bass Poppers

You’ve got a large assortment of bass fishing lures that claim to be poppers, but overall, we’re sticking to two main types. You have chuggers and spitters. They’re both very similar, but the presentation they create in the water is what makes them a little different.

Chuggers

The chugger is a lot like the Arbogast Hula Popper we reviewed above. These create a loud pop sound when they hit the water, and then they bubble when you retrieve them. As you pull them in, they almost shroud themselves in bubbles, and when they pop, that’s when you get the loud noise you’re looking for.

Spitters

The main difference between these two is in the shape of their mouth. When you look at a spitter closely, you’ll notice that the top lip of the concave mouth sticks out a little further than the bottom lip. As a result, these lures don’t create that bubble shroud and trail; instead, they spit the water back out somewhat like a water wheel.

It makes a softer sound, but I’ve found that the noise is more consistent, which is what drives bass crazy. Our top pick above is a perfect example of a high-quality spitter.

Features to Look For in the Best Poppers

Popper bass fishing is pretty basic, and most of the lures operate in the same fashion. When you’re shopping around, make sure to look for the following features to determine you have the right lure in your hand.

Concave Mouth – The main feature that makes this lure tick is the design of its mouth. The mouth either spits or chugs, and both of these create a loud noise when they hit the water and when you retrieve them. One sure-fire way of knowing you have a popper is by looking at the design of the mouth.

Treble Hooks – Topwater poppers for bass fishing always come with at least one treble hook. This is because you need to be able to set the hook when a bass comes at you from a variety of different directions. Many of the stock hooks that come with lures are low-quality, so be sure to pay attention to that.

Color Variations – Color is an important buying factor because it will impact your success. I always suggest mimicking the color of your lure to match the surroundings where you’re fishing. Most popular companies like Rapala or Rebel offer an assortment of colors, so you don’t have to worry about that.

How to Fish Poppers for Bass

Interestingly enough, there aren’t too many bass fishing tips I can give you on fishing poppers. They’re one of the simplest lures to fish, which makes them great for beginner bass fishing. You have two options for retrieving.

You can play it safe and follow a steady retrieval. You’ll do this by casting out and retrieving by cranking the reel at a normal pace. The popper will spit and chug as you do this at a natural pace.

If you’re looking to make things a little more interesting, you can cast out, leave the rod tip down and use the tip to jerk the lure in an erratic motion. For this, I suggest getting a lure with a little red on it. Some of the options recommended above have red bellies.

For this, to work best, you’ll keep the line tight, lift the rod tip up quickly, reel in the slack, and repeat this process. The bass will think your lure is injured, and they’ll be more likely to strike it.

Best Time to Use Poppers for Bass

While there isn’t a “wrong” time to fish poppers, any self-respecting bass angler would tell you that night time, overcast, or dusk is the best time to use these. When it’s dark, bass can’t see the lure as well, so they rely on what they hear.

For this situation, having a loud lure that draws a lot of attention is the key to success. Again, be sure to keep everything else in mind as well. Choose a color that relates to the time of day. If it’s pitch black out with very little moonlight, go with a completely black lure.

If you’ve got some moonlight, choose something that might reflect some of that light. Go with a silver shad color or something like that.

Also, keep in mind how your presentation needs to change based on the time of day and year. When it’s a cooler, overcast day – you need to slow it down. When it’s hot, and the sun is still beaming down at 9 pm, you can afford to pick up the pace a little.

Final Thoughts

The best bass poppers aren’t hard to find because so many of the most popular lure brands make a ton of them. I suggest sticking with the Pop-R, Heddon, and Rapala when it comes to these. Even if you have to pay an extra buck or two, you know you’re getting the highest quality lures.

The best thing about poppers is that they’re easy to fish. If you have a kid or a friend who is looking to get into fishing, get them hooked by rigging a topwater popper and showing them how easy it is to catch bass with the right lure and the proper strategy.

We love talking to our community here at Anglers.com, so be sure to drop us a comment with your favorite popper story and tell us more about how you like to fish these lures.

Good luck out there!

Phillip Gentry

How to Hunt Alligators

Chances are pretty good that if you’re interested in hunting alligators on a recreational basis, you’ve already applied for one or more of the state alligator hunting lottery drawings available in every coastal state from North Carolina to Texas (plus Arkansas). Recreational alligator seasons are available in all of these states and season dates typically fall between August and October, depending on which state you’re hunting in. Lottery drawings take place during the summer to allot a limited number of harvest tags to a large number of interested hunters and most alligator states have made their selections and notified their lucky hunters by the end of July.

Recreational alligator hunts are a relatively new concept in most of these states, with the exception of Florida, Texas, and Louisiana, the states with the larger alligator populations, which have historically relied more on commercial harvest to control gator numbers.

The American alligator, once hunted nearly to extinction, has now recovered to the point that regulated recreational harvest of the animals is now allowed in Southeastern coastal states.

Lottery hunt selections are typically for a certain segment or zone of each state in an attempt to spread the harvest and hunting pressure evenly. Baiting for alligators is illegal in recreational hunting except in Florida, Texas, and Louisiana where it is restricted to mostly private lands.

American alligators are riverine in nature, mostly preferring fresh water but will venture into brackish and salt waters at times. Accordingly, alligators can be found in rivers, swamps, sloughs, lakes and ponds. Adult alligators are opportunistic feeders. Food sources include birds, fish, and mammals, as well as other reptiles and amphibians, either dead or alive.

Selected hunters typically spend a few days, or nights where allowed, afield in their allotted hunt area trying to pattern alligator traffic before the season opens. From telemetry studies, most alligators maintain a home range that varies between 1 and 13 square miles. These same studies also document strong fidelity to their individual territories. Alligators mate during the months of May and June, during which time both male and female gators may travel outside their ranges, but later in the year, during alligator hunting seasons, remain within their home ranges.

All alligator hunting states require the animal be tagged immediately after harvest.

Finding and Patterning Alligators

While a host of environmental factors such as food, water levels and water quality may dictate how far and wide an alligator may travel across it’s territory, seeing an alligator in a particular area is the most utilized patterning practice in preparation of hunting. Larger and older specimens are solitary creatures and prefer to be far removed from human activity and will reside in remote, hard-to-reach locations. While American alligators are not entirely nocturnal, these animals are definitely more active after dark.

Like many predatory species, alligators are vocal creatures. Both male and female gators have a range of vocalizations. Some hunters swear by an ability to call gators into an area, or at least make them show themselves, by making a low-pitched kissing sound produced by mouth with their lips sucked in. Another auditory method is to imitate prey by making splashing sounds that mimic a small mammal in distress.

Try This Recipe: Nashville Hot Alligator

In states that allow night hunting, many hunters rely on chance encounters with gators by shining search lights on the water. An alligator’s eyes will shine bright red when light is reflected off of them. The hunter then attempts to ease in close enough to attach a line to the animal before it submerges.

Because alligators spend the majority of the time under water than above it, the best way to estimate the size of one is judging the distance between its nostrils and it’s eyes, which is all the animal typically shows above water when cruising or hunting. Scientific studies support a scale of 1 inch distance between eyes and nostrils to 1 foot of overall body length.

Alligator Hunting Gear and Training

The methods for attachment of a line, which vary by state, include hand-held snatch hooks Thrown by hand or cast with rod and reel), harpoons, snares, or bowfishing archery tackle. In the majority of states that allow recreational alligator hunting, it is illegal to shoot an alligator with a firearm until the animal is brought under control with a rope firmly attached.

Realizing the complexities of alligator hunting and the relative newness of the sport, most alligator states offer either online training, in-person seminars, or both to educate hunters on what equipment is legal in that state and how to best use the equipment to harvest an alligator.

Legal hunting methods vary by state. Most states do not allow the shooting of an alligator until it is roped under control.

Because wrestling a large alligator boatside is usually more work than one person can handle, most states allow “assistant” hunters to participate in the hunt. These individuals do not have to be drawn or randomly selected, but must accompany an alligator tag bearer and may have separate license requirements in order to participate in the hunt.

A Nod to Conservation

American alligators were on the brink of extinction as recent as the early 1970’s, mostly due to unregulated hunting. Since that time, gators in the southern coastal states have rebounded in number to the point that limited harvest is allowed. This harvest is highly monitored with the issuance of tags to only a few selected hunters and requirements that all animals be tagged immediately upon harvest as well as the labelling of alligator parts once processing has taken place. Harvest reports are also required and each state compiles hunter success, participation and animal length and weight calculations in order to properly monitor harvest.

Alligator hunting seasons are in themselves a success story in animal conservation. By allowing limited harvest of these magnificent animals, hunters can help reduce the amount of unintended alligator/human interactions, which often leads to the destruction of the offending alligator, and provide recreational opportunities, population control, and make full use of the animal.

MORE ON ALLIGATOR HUNTING: Listen to Gamekeeper Podcast’s ALLIGATOR SEASON WITH RICKY FLYNT

Bushcraft skills are often thought of as survival skills. While they are certainly useful in a survival situation, they are most helpful in taking our time in the woods beyond survival and making it comfortable.

These abilities are often referred to as pioneer skills, as they were necessary for survival before the advent of electricity, gasoline engines, and indoor plumbing.

Due to modern conveniences, many people do not build a fire or boil drinking water daily as our ancestors did in the 19th century. Learning these skills is important not only for recreation but also for emergency preparedness and self-sustainability.

These bushcraft skills can be practiced in your backyard or at a simple campsite. As I mentioned in What is Bushcraft, most bushcrafters I know are outdoorsmen that just like to be outside and make things with their hands.

Keep reading to find out the bushcraft skills that are most important both for survival and making your time in the woods comfortable. I also have a tip on the best place to read more about these skills.

Keep an eye out for my link to a free first-aid training course and easy camp meals!

Bushcraft Camping Skills – Campsite Selection

While it’s not really an exciting skill to practice, selecting the wrong place to camp can make all of the other skills ineffective. Or it can make your situation even worse.

When choosing a place to camp, there are a few factors to keep in mind. Although it may seem overwhelming at first, with time, selecting a bushcraft campsite will become second nature.

• Length of Stay: How long do you plan to camp here? Shorter stays will require less resources than longer ones.
• Firewood: If you plan to have a fire, ensure it is legal. Can you cut down trees? Is there enough deadfall around camp to use instead?
• Weather: Which way does the wind usually blow? Ideally, the wind should be parallel to your shelter and fire so smoke doesn’t blow into your shelter.
• Elevation: Warm air rises, so low valleys tend to get cold. Ridgetops tend to be windy. The ideal location is halfway up a hill between a ridge and a valley, if possible.
• Water: Do you have a water source nearby? Are you close to a water source that could flood? Don’t forget that floods start upstream. Just because it is not raining where you are doesn’t mean the river or stream can’t flood from rain miles away.
• Overhead Hazards: Make sure for safety that there are no dead trees or branches overhead that could fall with the wind. Cliff sides or overhangs where rocks could fall into your campsite are also dangerous.
• Make sure you are allowed to camp in the area you have selected. Get permission from the landowner if it is private land, or make sure you don’t need a permit if you are on public land. Also, find out if you can have a fire, cut trees, hunt, fish, etc.

Bushcraft Knife Skills – Knifecraft

Using a bushcraft belt knife is one of the most important bushcraft skills to master. Without anything else, you have a chance to survive in the wilderness if you have a good belt knife.

Just like any other cutting tool, knowing how to use one safely is what you should focus on. Avoid the “triangle of death,” the area around your upper legs and groin where your femoral arteries are.

This is just as important with a smaller knife as you would find on a multitool or a Swiss Army knife. Keep the blade and direction of the cut away from the triangle.

Here are some bushcraft knife skills to focus on:

• Safe grips such as the knee lever and chest lever grip for carving
• Batoning wood to make kindling
• Cutting notches like a V notch, stake notch, bail notch, and cabin notch
• Shear cuts for making feather sticks or cutting small saplings.
• Shaving bark for fire tinder
• Cutting holes in sticks to craft items
• Cutting fine splits and end nocks
• Sharpening a knife – both field touchup and restoring a damaged edge

Always ensure you have a proper sheath for your belt knife, and keep it in the sheath when you are not using it.

Bushcraft Axe Skills – Axecraft

Axecraft is a bushcraft skill focused on effectively and safely using a bushcraft axe or hatchet. Besides the knife, the axe is an important tool for the bushcraft camper. Much of what we use at camp involves processing wood, and the axe can make quick work of a tree or log.

Some bushcraft axe skills are:

• Cutting down trees (felling) for firewood or shelter materials
• Limbing a tree
• Splitting wood for fuel
• Carving large pieces of wood to make tools
• Notching or bucking logs for shelter or other structures
• Using an axe as a hammer for tent stakes or spikes
• Using an axe with a baton to make shingles or planks
• Sharpening an axe
• Replacing an axe Handle

When working with an axe in the woods, safety is crucial. Felling a large tree with an axe is an extremely hazardous activity, as both the swinging axe and the falling tree pose a risk of injury. It’s important to understand the proper techniques for using an axe to minimize these risks.

While it is not practical to get into all the ways to safely use an axe here, always keep a sheath on your axe head when it is not in use. Mors Kochanski’s book Bushcraft is one of the best I have seen on how to use an axe. See our Best Bushcraft Books review for details on this book.

Bushcraft Saw Skills – Sawcraft

Knowing how to use a bushcraft folding saw, and a bow or buck saw is a bushcraft skill at the top of my list. While safer than an axe, attention to safety is still required.

I have seen most injuries occur from people trying to use a saw that is too large for the task. While big saws seem generally better, they may not be for you.

Here is some bushcraft saw skills to master:

• Felling trees – This is safer than using an axe, but you still have the falling tree to worry about.
• Limbing a tree
• Splitting wood – Yes, you read that right, see our best bushcraft saw article for a video
• Notching logs or sticks for structures or for crafting other utility items
• Processing deadfall for firewood
• Sharpening a saw blade
• Selecting the correct saw blade for the job

While a saw is much easier to use than an axe, there are still nuances that must be learned. For example, some saws are designed to cut in only one direction. If you don’t recognize this in your technique as you are cutting, it can lead to frustration and possibly a broken blade or injury.

Bushcraft Fire Starting Skills – Firecraft

Starting and maintaining a fire is essential for maintaining body heat in cold weather, purifying water, and signaling for help. Without it, your time in the woods will be short and uncomfortable.

While starting a fire may seem simple, there is a ton to learn.

Here are some bushcraft skills for starting a fire to focus on before you head into the woods. These skills will also help you better understand what tools you need. Look at our bushcraft fire starting kit review and guide to help you as you are starting out.

• Finding and identifying natural dry fire tinder
• Constructing a “birds nest” and twig bundle
• Using a Ferro rod
• Using flint and steel (or a hard rock and your bushcraft knife or saw)
• Building and using a bow drill
• Gathering and cutting kindling
• Making a feather stick
• Making char cloth
• Starting a fire with a magnifying lens
• Building a fire lay
• Choosing a safe fire site
• Maintaining a fire
• Properly extinguishing a fire

While this is not an extensive list, it is the basics that you should focus on. Start with how to gather and use tinder and kindling and light it with a trusty Bic lighter.

Starting a fire with a bow drill should be the last thing you do after you have mastered starting and maintaining a fire with the other methods.

I’ve found that many people face difficulties when it comes to choosing the right type of fuel to use for their fire. They may use sticks that are too large or lack enough dry material to sustain the fire, regardless of how they initially ignite it.

Keep local regulations in mind when starting a fire. Make sure there are no fire bans, and fires are allowed in your area. Starting a fire in a no-burn zone is a serious offense.

Bushcraft Shelter Building Skills – Sheltercraft

Building a bushcraft shelter in the woods is a huge topic (which is why we have a 4000-word article called “Bushcraft and Survival Shelters”).

There are many variables at play here. How long do you plan to camp? Is cutting trees or building a shelter even allowed where you are? How much time do you really want to spend building a shelter?

If you own the land, you can take your time and build a long-term bushcraft shelter. For me, this is a lot of fun for the family.

If you are camping where building your own shelter is not allowed, you can use a bushcraft tent or just a bushcraft tarp for a shelter.

Lay flat hammocks are also great, especially where it is hard to find flat ground. See my full Haven Tent Hammock Review to find out if a hammock is right for you and save 10% off with our discount code!

In a survival situation, a lightweight tarp, a survival blanket like the Arcturus heavy duty survival blanket, and a bivy bag are great to keep in your kit and can be deployed in minutes.

Simply put, you need something to sleep on, in, and under.

Here are some bushcraft shelter skills to focus on.

• Make your own oil-cloth for a canvas tent
• Pitching a tarp in various configurations for shelter
• Make and tie a ridgeline for a tarp shelter
• Make your own tent stakes
• Make your own ground pad or mattress for sleeping
• Build a lean-to shelter
• Build a debris hut shelter
• Build an A-Frame shelter
• Build a raised bed inside your shelter
• Construct a safe heat source inside your shelter
• Identify natural material for coverage and insulation
• Build a wall to reflect heat from a fire toward the shelter

You can study and practice building shelters for years. At the end of the day, the second priority of survival is maintaining your core body temperature. Even if you plan to build your own shelter, have a backup plan and basic items in your kit to get you out of the weather.

Water Sourcing and Purification Skills

Clean drinking water is essential for humans. While the survival rule of 3 gives a general guideline that we can only survive for 3 days without water, this could vary depending on the person and environment.

Water is needed not only for drinking but for cooking, cleaning, and personal hygiene during a long-term stay in the woods.

No matter if you are just planning a day hike or a weeklong bushcraft trip, you absolutely must have a plan to obtain clean drinking water.

Remember that most natural water is contaminated with bacteria or parasites that can make you sick. Even if you find a clear mountain stream, it is likely naturally contaminated and unsafe to drink.

Here are some skills to focus on to ensure water does not become an issue.

• Finding a water source in the woods
• Judging the safety of standing vs moving water
• Selecting the proper water container
• Selecting the proper bushcraft pot
• Building a pot hanger
• Prefiltering with a coarse filter to remove turbidity
• Boiling water to purify it
• Using a water filter (proper use and cleaning)
• Identifying water indicator trees from a distance
• Extracting water from birch trees
• Building a multilevel tripod water filter from natural materials

It is important to remember that you always need a metal container to purify water. It is ideal to have two: one to gather and purify water and the second to store clean drinking water. This also prevents cross-contamination.

The best method I have found is the combination of a Grayl Geopress water filter and the pathfinder nesting cup. With this setup, I can quickly purify water, and I have a second container for food that doesn’t take up any additional space.

Bushcraft Cordage Skills – Bindcraft

Bindcraft is an all-encompassing bushcraft skill that includes making cordage from natural materials, using manmade cordage like paracord, and tying knots.

Cordage can be used in nearly all of the skills we are discussing. From building a shelter to first aid, being able to tie and use the correct knots makes life much easier in the woods.

Here are some bushcraft skills to practice with cordage.

• Selecting the proper paracord and bank line
• Identifying natural materials to use for cordage
• Weaving and braiding natural cordage
• Tying basic knots (see below)
• Tying lashings (Cross, Shear, Square, Diagonal, Tripod, Round)
• Making bindings (for tying arrowheads, for example)
• Making fish nets
• Making cordage from rawhide
• How to make and use toggles

Here are some basic knots to learn and practice that are useful around camp.

• Lark’s Head
• Stop knot
• Marline Spike Hitch
• Prusik knot
• Jam knot
• Half Hitch
• Fisherman’s knot
• Reef Knot
• Bowline
• Trucker’s hitch
• Clove hitch
• Timber hitch
• Slip knot

Knots are fascinating to me. You would think that a knot is a knot, but things like a prusik knot are just amazing. Simply taking two pieces of cord and using it for pitching a tarp or climbing without untying it is so simple yet so useful.

I keep a piece of paracord and bank line beside my chair to practice tying knots. If I don’t practice, I find that I forget.

Bushcraft Forestry Skills

When you are in the woods, trees are one of the most abundant natural resources. Identifying each species and its uses will make your time in the woods much more comfortable.

I will admit being able to identify trees is one of my weaknesses. It mostly requires memorization, and comparing pictures in books to what exists in nature is not straightforward.

Learning the leaves is the easiest way to identify most trees. It just takes time and repetition to learn the trees in your area.

Here are some forestry bushcraft skills to focus on in the woods.

• Identifying trees based on their leaves and bark
• Which wood is the best for firewood
• Which wood is the best for building material
• Which trees have nutritional or medicinal uses
• How to identify “Fatwood”
• How to use pine sap as an adhesive
• Making containers from wood bark

Trees are a resource that we can use all year long. Bushcraft is essentially “living with nature.” Ultimately, we all look at trees a little differently if we understand just how important they are.

Bushcraft Foraging Skills

The wilderness is literally full of plants that have benefited humans for thousands of years.

But, with modern conveniences, we have forgotten so much. Being able to walk through the woods and understand what you can and can’t eat, what makes a good seasoning, and what can make your headache go away are all very rewarding bushcraft skills.

Here are some foraging bushcraft skills to learn:

• Identifying plants (learn the harmful ones first)
• Understanding which plants have poisonous lookalikes
• Harvesting wild edibles in your area
• Which plants have medicinal properties
• Identifying edible nuts
• Identifying edible fruits
• Where the most beneficial plants usually grow

Food usually isn’t an issue in a short-term survival situation. But, it is hard to live with just foraging for an extended period. This skill is one of the hardest and could be dangerous if you consume a poisonous plant.

I think of foraging as a supplement to the overall outdoor experience and a way to understand nature better.

Start with some wild onions or garlic as a seasoning. Or, just pick some blackberries. I have an area on my property full of them, and we enjoy them every summer.

Bushcraft Trapping Skills

Trapping is an ancient skill that is very rewarding when you need food in a survival situation. Since it is passive, it should be your primary method of harvesting food from nature. You can just set traps and check them a couple times of a day while completing other tasks.

For a typical bushcraft trip in the US, trapping is somewhat problematic to practice since there are wildlife seasons and regulations for trapping. Most states have specific trapping seasons, limit the animals you can trap, and limit what type of traps you can use.

Most of us interested in bushcraft have watched and studied the 10 items the contestants on Alone selected. Many chose snare lines, but many did not use them for snares. A few winners made it because they had an effective trap line set up with their snares.

Here are some trapping bushcraft skills to review:

• Locating and identifying game animals
• Identifying game trails
• Recognizing animal behavior
• Identifying game animal tracks and sign
• Understanding what game animals eat
• Identifying and harvesting the correct bait
• How to make and set a snare
• How to make and set a deadfall trap
• How to make and set a cage-type trap

While trapping can be difficult considering state regulations, it is worth trying if you have an area available. Keep your initial expectations low, and be patient. It is a primitive skill that takes time to master and could be very useful when you need it.

Bushcraft Hunting Skills

While trapping is a passive way to harvest game animals, hunting is an active way. While you can hunt any game animal, it has more benefits for the time you spend if you hunt big game animals.

Similar to trapping, rules, and regulations are depending on the state for when, where, and what type of weapon you can use.

Going on a hunting trip in a remote area where you can camp at night is an amazing experience. For many, hunting is the primary reason for the trip, and bushcraft takes a back seat.

Regardless, in a survival situation, having hunting experience is a huge advantage. I recommend that everyone at least try hunting just to have a connection with nature and a better understanding of what is involved.

Here are some bushcraft hunting skills to explore:

• Take a hunter education course
• Understand how firearms work
• Learn the different types of hunting firearms
• Learn the different types of hunting ammunition
• Learn how to shoot a rifle and a shotgun
• Understand the different types of bows
• Learn how to shoot a bow and arrow
• Reload a spent shotgun shell in the woods
• Learn how to scout for big game in your area
• Understand the behavior patterns of game animals
• Learn the different ways to hunt (still or stalk)
• Understand the effects that weather has on game animals

Over 25 Million people hunt in the US every year. It is one of the world’s oldest primitive activities that is still done today. Having the experience is certainly valuable when you really need it.

Bushcraft Fishing Skills

Fishing is interesting since there are so many ways to do it. I think that it can be one of the most exciting and one of the most frustrating ways to get food.

There are both active and passive ways to fish. All of them have their challenges. In some ways, active fishing is harder than hunting because you not only have to find fish, but you have to convince them to take your bait.

However, like hunting and trapping, there are rules and regulations that you must follow. Be sure to review them before trying any of these methods.

Some bushcraft fishing skills that you can learn are:

• Fishing with a standard rod and reel
• Fishing with a handline
• Setting a trot line
• Natural and Artificial bait selection
• Where fish tend to be at certain times of day/year
• How to make and use a dip net
• How to make and use a gill net
• How to make and use a Seine net
• How to make a fish trap (funnel and tube style)

Almost twice as many people fish than hunt in the US every year. Since fishing is a year around sport in most areas, it is much easier to practice modern and primitive methods.

Bushcraft Cooking Skills

Cooking at camp is essential for purifying water and cooking food. In many cases, depending on where and when you are camping, you may be unable to trap, hunt, fish, or even forage for food. In these cases, you will have to pack in your own food.

Due to the weight and no refrigeration, this can become a challenge as well.

Not only is cooking at camp an essential bushcraft skill, but preserving food is also. If you harvest a big game animal, what do you do with all the meat?

Here are some bushcraft cooking skills to think about and focus on:

• Understand foods that can be packed that have high nutritional value and do not need refrigeration
• Research pre-packaged camp food or dehydrated meals
• Understand simple camp foods that do not spoil quickly
• Review substitutes for common ingredients that can be packed
• Selecting the proper tools for cooking at camp
• Preserving foraged food and game
• Cleaning and butchering game animals
• Cleaning and cooking fish
• How to bake with a Dutch oven on a campfire
• Crafting utensils from wood
• Building a pot crane, tripod, and rotisserie over a fire
• How to dry and smoke meat
• Building a rocket stove
• Building a can stove

There are many survival recipes online for both bringing stable food with you and for cooking once you are at camp. Trail mixes and prepackaged foods are the easiest and what I normally use.

For a very easy option, Nutrient Survival has freeze-dried meals that only require hot water to be added. Their Grab and Go packs include a full day of meals and even include my morning coffee and some snacks and dessert. They are a great way to “smooth it.”

I enjoy cooking and experimenting with different ingredients. Beef jerky, seasoned rice, and a drizzle of olive oil make for a simple yet tasty addition to any camping meal.

Bushcraft First Aid Skills

Inevitably an injury will happen to you or someone you are with. When you are out in the woods, it is important not to panic and know how to react since you are likely hours from help.

The most common injury in the wilderness that you will see are breaks, strains, and sprains. While these usually are not life-threatening, they cause mobility issues which make the other bushcraft skills harder to do.

Another common occurrence in the winter is falling into cold water. If you have your bases covered with shelter and fire, as we discussed above, you should have the resources with you to make a quick shelter and get a fire going in a few minutes.

If this seems crazy, put some gear together and start practicing. Once someone’s body temperature starts dropping, you don’t have long to recover.

In the summer, heat stroke from excessive exertion is also common. Knowing how to identify and rectify it is just as important as treating hypothermia. While being cold is obvious, heat stroke can sneak up on you.

Here are some bushcraft first-aid skills to study:

• Build/purchase an IFAK and know how to use each item
• Learn CPR
• Mobilizing a limb with tree limbs and cordage
• Understand how to Stop bleeding
• How to use a tourniquet
• How to apply bandages and dressings
• How to treat gunshot wounds, knife wounds, and axe wounds
• How to treat foot rot/trench foot
• How to treat burns
• Identify and treat shock
• Learn the Heimlich maneuver, both on someone else and yourself
• Identifying stroke and heart attacks
• How to treat digestion issues
• How to treat insect or animal bites
• Learn medicinal plants in your area
• How to make a decoction and a salve from plants

First aid skills are great to learn not only for bushcraft but for emergency preparedness in general. Before you focus on any other skills, focus on this one.

Mountain man medical has great purpose built med kits and a video training course that is free.

My Medic also has some great first aid kits specialized for different situations. I like to keep the Sidekick Pro kit attached to my pack when I am out in the woods.

For more details on the kits that MyMedic offers, see our Full MyMedic Review guide. You can also save 15% by using code “SURVIVALSTOIC15” at checkout!

Bushcraft Navigation Skills

Navigating your way through the wilderness is a basic bushcraft skill that you should practice before heading deep into a remote area.

The first rule to always follow before heading out is to let someone know where you are going and when you will be back. If they don’t hear from you when you are supposed to return, they should call for help.

People naturally walk in big circles when they do not have a bearing to focus on (called lateral drift). This is why you always hear people say if you are lost, stay where you are.

It is common when hunting in a remote area to travel a few miles from camp. It is easy to get disoriented at different times of the day.

With basic navigation skills, you won’t have to wait until someone finds you.

Some wilderness navigation skills to learn are:

• How to use a compass
• How to use a topographical map
• How to keep a pace count
• How to use the terrain to navigate
• How to identify north from the vegetation
• Finding your location on a map
• How to navigate around an obstacle
• How to mark a trail
• Using the sun to navigate
• Using the moon to navigate
• Using a stick and a star to navigate at night

Using a compass and map requires practice. It is not something you can just read about and pick up. Take a look at our full guide on the best survival compass. Get a good topo map of your area and start small. If you spend a lot of time outdoors, this one skill could save your life.

How to Learn More about Bushcraft Skills

To learn more about all of these bushcraft skills, review our guide of the best bushcraft books. Buy a few of them, study, and focus on one skill and practice it.

Make sure you follow a logical progression. For example, it makes no sense to start a fire with a bow drill if you can’t keep one going.

Go on a camping trip first at a regular campground and just practice cooking, for example. Try out your water filter from water at the lake on a fishing trip. Take one step at a time and be patient. Before long, most of these bushcraft skills will be second nature.

Final Bushcraft Skills Thoughts

The main reason people bushcraft is because they like to be outside. In a survival situation when you don’t have modern conveniences, knowing these skills and tools and having the correct bushcraft gear are life savers.

With some experience, you can thrive living outdoors like our ancestors did. Just think of all the pioneers that headed out west in the 1800s. They all had to survive in the wilderness with just what they had. While it may seem crazy today, humans have survived for thousands of years.

Like “Nessmuk” said in his classic Woodcraft book, “We do not go to the green woods and crystal waters to rough it, we go to smooth it. We get it rough enough at home.”

This article sums up the bushcraft guides and gear reviews that we have created. Take a look at our emergency preparedness and self defense sections as well!