.22LR is not only great for plinking, but a great introductory round for new shooters.

I originally bought the Walther P22 to teach my wife to shoot, and after thousands of rounds, and plenty of new shooters…I can say that it is a near perfect training pistol.

It has tons of features found on more expensive guns and with relatively affordable .22LR ammo, the P22 can be a no-brainer buy. Read on to see if it fits your purpose!

Features and Specs

Key Specs

• Caliber: .22LR
• Capacity: 10+1 rounds
• Barrel Length: 3.42 in
• Overal Length: 6.3 in
• Width: 1.1 in
• Height: 4.5 in
• Weight: 17 oz
• Frame: Polymer
• Grips: Textured polymer

Key Features

• Interchangeable backstraps
• Windage adjustable rear sight
• Captured recoil spring
• Double action/single action trigger
• Threaded barrel
• Ambidextrous mag release and slide safety
• Has 2, 10 round mags
• Safety: manual external, fire pin block, mag disconnect
• MSRP: $339

More information can be found at Walther.

Pros & Cons

+Great training tool for higher caliber pistols+Can be easily threaded for a suppressor+Super light recoil+Comfortable grips+Ambidextrous controls

-Cheap feeling sights-Gets dirty easily but that’s .22LR

Background

The Walther P22 was one of the original semi-auto .22LR handguns and has been satisfying shooters since 2002.

The latest generation is now called the P22 Q and comes in a bunch of colors and variants.

We love how there’s now threaded versions and also versions that come with a laser.

Fit & Feel

The P22 is a solid handgun that has the fit, finish, and features of a much more expensive gun. A lighter polymer frame is the perfect match for the softer shooting .22LR caliber.

Barrel

Like most .22LR caliber handguns, the P22 has a fixed barrel design so takedown is a bit different than most full-sized guns, but the additional steps are straight forward.

A nice feature of this barrel nut is that an adapter is all that’s required to convert your barrel to a threaded barrel version if you live in a state that allows silencers.

Even though it is fixed barrel, cleaning the barrel is easy as it removes quickly with the supplied wrench, or if you choose, you can simply clean it while it remains attached to the frame.

Need some inspiration for a .22LR can? Check out our Best Rimfire Suppressors article.

Slide and Frame

While this is a budget-priced gun, it does come with some features not normally found on lower priced guns.

A serrated slide for better grip makes the slide more easier to work, even with sweaty or wet hands. Even the hammer has serrations for added grip!

A loaded chamber window isn’t what most would consider critical, but it is a nice feature that doesn’t get in the way and gives you a simple way of seeing what condition your firearm is in.

Under the slide, you’ll find an accessory rail to mount lasers and lights on making for some nice options.

The magazine release and safety levers are ambidextrous but the slide stop is still built for right-handed shooters.

I’m also not a huge fan of the safety lever on the actual slide, but it is engineered well, and easily accessed by my thumb without having to change my grip.

It also has a very positive feel so you know when you’ve placed the P22 in fire or safe mode.

Grip

Make no mistake about it, this gun is small, and therefore, the grip is also thin and small.

Finger grooves line the grip which is a nice texture; not too rough on contact but provides good grip.

Out of the box comes an additional back-strap to better fit larger/smaller hands.

Most of the time, a very thin profile gun means an uncomfortable grip, but there are two things working in the P22’s favor…

First, the P22 comes with ergonomic panels, and second, .22LR is a such a low recoil round that the thinner grip doesn’t create the hand fatigue a larger caliber might.

I find the grip is similar to the HK grip on the P30 or VP9 and it is straight up comfy. For my medium sized hands, I love how snug the gun feels.

What’s even better is that my wife, who has small hands, loves the feel of the grip and overall gun.

Trigger

The action is a DA/SA with a manual safety. You have the mechanical safety on the slide, but the P22 also includes a magazine disconnect safety which prevents the trigger from being pulled unless there is a magazine in the gun.

Newer P22s also have a safety de-cocking feature that allows you to safely drop the hammer using the manual safety.

The DA/SA action is predictable but some may find the 11lb DA pull undesirable, but most of the time you are shooting it in the light 4lb SA stage.

Sights

For me, the only thing that feels “cheap” on the gun is the fact that it comes with what dot polymer sights. While this is good enough for range use, they are no one’s favorite sighting system.

How Does It SHoot?

I have never had an issue shooting different ammo types in the P22, but I have seen that a lot of P22 users claim that their handgun is picky on ammo.

Most agree that higher powered rounds don’t have issues.

Federal ammo is the ammo I consistently run through my 22lr guns and I have always had great success.

Yes, there have been some rounds that stove-pipe or FTE, but I think that is to be expected in any 22lr gun.

I feed by P22 a steady diet of 36 grain Federal, 40 grain Federal Target, and 40 grain CCI.

Sub-sonic ammo will definitely be unpredictable as it the right might not have enough power to cycle the slide.

Keeping the gun clean is definitely important in keeping jams to a minimum. I try to clean my P22 frequently, especially the feed ramp and slide rails.

The P22 magazines are metal but pretty thin. Don’t expect these to stand up to too much abuse – thankfully, extra mags won’t break the bank.

Accuracy

My view of .22LR ammo changed after I took my first Appleseed rifle marksmanship clinic. While this doesn’t have anything to do with the P22, it does have everything to do with the round it shoots.

I showed up to the Appleseed clinic with my stock Ruger 10/22 (with a trigger upgrade) and bulk Federal ball ammo (not match, not high velocity). 1” Targets were set back 25 yards and was told to put 5 rounds inside the target with iron sights.

After balking and then realizing they were serious, I definitely cried some internal tears. But by the end of the clinic, not only was I able to do this (shooting prone), but I left with complete confidence in the accuracy of the .22LR round.

With the P22, it is accurate enough to make shooting enjoyable. We are not taking it to target competitions, but making my steel silhouettes ring is easy and a ton of fun.

I would estimate it at 2MOA if you’re doing your thing.

My wife, who doesn’t shoot nearly as much as I do, is able to comfortably put shots on target. This is due to several factors, which include grip comfort, the light weight of the gun, and the lack of recoil and sound.

Recoil

Anyone who has shot .22LR knows that the recoil is minimum.

Even in higher velocity rounds, it is still extremely manageable, making follow-up shots easy and accurate, especially since subsequent shots are single action with the lighter trigger pull.

What Sets It Apart?

For a while the P22 was the go-to semi-auto .22LR pistol out there. Now you have some competition with the Glock 44, Taurus TX-22, and the Sig Sauer P322.

Though the TX-22 and Sig Sauer hold more rounds, the P22 can still hold its own based on ergonomics and reliability.

Takedown for cleaning, since you’ll be doing a lot of it, is easy with this tutorial:

By The Numbers

Ergonomics 4/5

The P22 is extremely comfortable, offering some customization of the rear grip panel. With a thin gun width, it is very comfortable to hold with both hands. All of the functions of the handgun (safety, magazine release, slide stop, trigger) are easy to manipulate and many are ambi.

Accuracy 4/5

For having a fun day at the range, it does it perfectly. There is a target barrel that can be purchased which is a longer 5” barrel, but the shorter 3.42” barrel is plenty accurate for plinking.

Reliability 4/5

.22LR handguns get dirty, and it is true that these P22s need to be kept clean (like any other .22LR handgun). If you allow it to get dirty, you may begin to experience issues. I am notorious for not cleaning my guns often and I do notice it with my P22, mostly because of how dirty .22LR ammo is.

Looks 5/5

For a .22LR, I think the P22 looks the best. Besides the fact that it is a small gun, it looks impressive. You can get the P22 in a variety of colors/configurations.

I love the military color scheme on my P22! The serrations on the slide with the Walther marking looks sharp with the grip stippling an attractive functional and beautiful addition as well.

Upgrades: 4/5

There isn’t a huge selection of upgrade parts but there is a decent amount, most of them made or sold by most retailers. Having an accessory rail means that you can fit lights and lasers (or knives) on the end of the handgun

Price/Value 5/5

The price is hard to beat! A fraction the cost of larger caliber handguns, the P22 is affordable, allowing you to invest your money into ammo and accessories. For the features it has, I believe it to be one of the best values on the market.

Overall 4/5

I love the P22! There is something special about this lightweight, feature-packed gun. My friends love to shoot it and many have made their own P22 purchase after shooting mine.

It is so much fun to shoot and is great to teach friends how to shoot. Walther hit a home run with this gun and jammed something amazing into a perfect little pistol.

Upgrades

You’ve got a rail up front so you can always add a light…our favorite go-to is the TLR-1 HL series.

And like we mentioned above…if you want to suppress the P22 all you need is an adapter kit.

And you can always do with extra mags with all the lead you’ll be slinging downrange.

Verdict

This Walther P22 is just plain fun. How else can you send thousands of rounds down range without worrying about ammo cost?

The best part is not having to compromise comfort or features for that cheap and fun range experience.

I can say from experience that the P22 is pure gold with plenty of features, accuracy, and comfort!

How do you like your P22? Got another go-to 22LR plinker pistol that you love? Let us know in the comments! If you’re ready for a rifle to go with your pistol, take a look at the Best .22LR Pistols!

It’s a fact, 8 wt fly rods get overlooked. Too often we read articles or get into conversations at the fly shop about different fly rod weights and which situations each is best suited for, and the 8wt never seems to match up with angler’s idea of the ideal weight for specific species. It always tends to be one size too large or one size too small. Because of this, we wanted to take a look at 8 Weight Fly Rods Uses.

It’s a shame because this size of fly rod is incredibly versatile but often underutilized. It’s never in the Goldilocks zone, but we would rather have a rod that can cover a lot of different applications, especially if we don’t have the resources to splurge on five different rods.

We explain below some of the uses and situations when these fly rods can be beneficial, and we’ve listed out a couple of our favorite 8 weight fly rods that are on the market.

8 Weight Fly Rod Uses

Uses and Benefits of an 8 weight fly rod

Below is a quick list of some popular game fish that you can easily chase after and land with an 8 weight fly rod:

• Bass
• Carp
• Large Trout (Or average trout using big streamers)
• Pike
• Salmon
• Steelhead
• Bonefish
• Snook
• Redfish

And again, you might find some people that prefer a rod a step up or down in weight, but the point is that an 8wt gives you a versatile rod that can work a lot of different fish, and the truth is there are a lot of different .

With 8wt line, you can work with the heavier flies, often weighted, that get down in the water column quickly such as buggers and Clousers. These rods have the power and stiffness to turn over heavier sinking line but still sensitive enough for more delicate presentation with lighter flies if that is what’s needed.

Some models will be better suited for heavy casting versus light presentation, but 8wt rods are not so far up or down in weight that one or the other is not achievable.

You might also notice several saltwater species in the list above. Fishing for saltwater game is often synonymous with windy conditions. While it may differ from one model to the next, most 8wt rods are often moderate-fast to very-fast action which allows them to load fast and cut through the wind. That said, if you’re chucking heavy flies, especially in wind, wear sunglasses for eye protection!

The main point, and what we want to get across, is that an 8wt rod might not fit every application perfectly, but they’re versatile enough to cover a lot of different fishing scenarios and deserve a spot in your outfit. The crew here at FlyRods.com each have an 8 wt in our quiver, and we always enjoy using them. The seasoned large game angler will tell you, there are a ton of 8 weight fly rod uses!

Key components of a quality 8wt fly rod

Number of pieces

For a long time, it was thought that the more pieces a fly rod had, the less efficient the rod was regarding action and power throughout the rod.

The leaps in fly rod manufacturing and materials have allowed better tapering and ferrule design on the pieces which helps it retain the correct action and power throughout the length of the rod.

Someone really in tune with fly rods is going to be able to tell the difference between the same model in a two piece versus a four piece, but for most people, the difference between the two won’t be noticeable.

The main advantage of more pieces as compared to less is better portability.

Rod materials

Modern rods are almost always carbon fiber graphite or fiberglass. Both can catch fish. Fiberglass is often more in the slow to moderate action while graphite is usually in the fast action range. Action discussed more below.

You will also see a lot of nano-resin materials now being used in conjunction with graphite which increases the strength of the rod without adding a lot of weight.

Handle and grip

Cork is going to be the go-to material when it comes to fly rods. Cork is often given a specific grade ranging from A to AAA with the latter being the highest grade. Some synthetic grips are appearing on the market, but their popularity has not quite taken off.

Most 8wt rods are still only going to have single handgrip though there are 8wt Spey style grips, which we’ll save for another article.

You will also find some rods of this weight with fighting butts. These butts are great if you’re planning on getting into some bigger fish and allow you to take a lot of the pressure off your wrist when trying to get leverage.

Action

A fly rod’s action refers to where the rod bends when pressure is applied. The three main specifications for action are slow (bend more in the bottom third of the rod), moderate (bend in the middle to top half of the rod), and fast (bend in the top third of the rod).

Like any of these components, there is no right or wrong decision when it comes to a fly rod. Slow, mid, or fast action rods can all catch fish. Orvis has a helpful article on it.

There are several ways you can go with action for 8wt rods. Fast action rods are generally stiffer and let you load up quicker and get more line speed, distance, and the ability to cut through the wind.

The downside is that you get less accuracy at short ranges and there is less protection for light tippet, meaning if you hook a big fish you might snap it off.

With a moderate action rod, you get a slower load which can make wider loops trying to lob out heavy flies easier and make casting a bit more manageable for those still working on their technique.

They also are more manageable at short ranges you might run into while bass fishing around structures. You also get a little bit more finesse in your presentations.

Power

The power of a rod refers to how much pressure it takes to make the rod bend. For decent 8wt rods, the power ratings are going to fall anywhere from medium to heavy power.

While it depends on the fish, you are going to want the rod to have some resistance to get leverage on larger fish. A moderate-heavy to heavy power rating is our recommendation. See this guide on rod power by TFO.

Power, action, and stiffness don’t have a clear definition or standard across all of the different manufacturers. In the video below, you can get a better visualization of what these different terms mean.

Our top 8 weight fly rods

Fenwick HMG

Fenwick, in general, is an anomaly when it comes to quality rods at retail store prices. Most fly rods you pick up in this price range are similar to wet noodles when casting but the Fenwick brand surprised us with their rod quality, and the graphite HMG remains true to this trend.

While the HMG won’t fish like the high-end rods itis incredibly affordable, and its performance on the water is not going to dissuade beginners or frustrate more experienced anglers.

The Fenwick HMG 8wt has a single model option with a length of 9 feet and a weight of 4.2oz and four piece setup. We also like the dot alignment system on the ferrules that helps you align all of the guides and keep your casting at its optimum.

Handling

The HMG doesn’t use the highest quality cork, but that’s one part of the rod design that helps drop the price down. The handle is a kind of hybrid Full Wells design, but the rod handles easily in your hands.

The double up-locking reel seat is easy to turn and get a nice tight lock on your reel. There is also a small cork fighting butt on this rod

Casting and Wrangling

The Fenwick HMG feels pretty good casting. You’re going to be able to cast it proficiently on the water and are going to be able to catch fish. It’s a moderate fast action taper which makes it a little more user-friendly to beginners, but it might not give the performance someone out on the flats dealing with wind might want.

With its action, tip performance, and large stripping guides this rod shoots line well and is pretty decent at roll casting. Unlike the other 8wt fly rods, this rod does a lot better at short range than it does at 80+feet. It’s a great rod for fishing lake banks for bass.

Fenwick Eagle

This graphite rod from Fenwick is another excellent 8 weight option for those who want a rod that is going to perform well on the water, including casting and handling fish, without having the steep price tag.

The Eagle uses a four section blank so it’s also a great rod to bring on trips with you where there might be an opportunity to work some water.

This rod features two stripping guides along with the remaining snake guides. All eleven guides are chrome and do well at reducing friction of line leaving the rod and distributing pressure along the rod’s length. The guides, along with the light olive finish on the blanks and cork handles give it a pleasant look.

We like the reel seat on the Eagle as well. It uses a carbon spacer and a two aluminum up locking mechanism that keeps your reel locked and secure.

Handling and Wrangling

The Eagle uses pretty good quality cork for its hand grip, and it has an excellent reel seat. The handle also has a fairly large cork fighting butt for an 8 weight fly rod. The fighting butt along with the full wells cork handle gives you a comfortable setup to work large bass.

It’s a pretty stiff tip, and with its action, you can get quick hook sets, but it’s enough to snap light tippet. That comes with just about any fly rod and not a knock on the Eagle. We just wanted to mention it. This rod is great at picking up subtle takes and is pretty sensitive overall.

The power of this rod is categorized as Fly by the manufacturer. This is usually in the medium to sometimes medium heavy range. That’s more than enough for any bass you might be chasing. That power rating with the handle and fighting butt make this a great big bass rod or streamer rod for large browns. This rod utilizes IM-8 reinforced graphite, so it’s got some durability.

Casting

This is a medium fast action rod, but we think the tip is a little stiff and feels more like a fast action rod when casting. It’s not really a concern, and it is subtle. If you bought the rod wanting that action, you probably wouldn’t even notice. The Eagle picks up line well off of the water and loads quickly to get those large flies back into the strike zone.

This stiffness of the tip helps this rod load line pretty well, and you can get a couple dozen feet of line loaded with a lighter fly tied on. Medium range casts between 30 and 45 feet are where this rod really shines in line management and accuracy. You can get more distance if you’re not throwing a huge weighted fly, but anything past 50’ get’s tough to manage.

TFO BVK

We don’t live under a rock, and we realize that not everyone who wants to purchase a new fly rod has a spare 800 dollars lying around to throw towards a new rod. We like the BVK from Temple Fork Outfitters because it is high quality and provides a performance more akin to the high dollar fly rods without the price.

Handling

These rods feature a full wells grip design and a short fighting butt. The cork is decent quality, it’s not the top of the line stuff, but it’s not going to degrade after a few trips either.

The rod uses an anodized aluminum reel seat with a double uplocking mechanism that is the only issue with the rod. I have used this rod on a lot of smallmouth bass, and there have been several times I have had to pull out the pliers to loosen them as they tend to slip the threading. It doesn’t really affect fishing, but it can be the breaking point when the fishing hasn’t turned out as you hoped.

Casting and Wrangling

These are moderately fast action rods and pretty heavy in the power department even though they are relatively lightweight for an 8wt rod. They are not the most accurate rods at short range, but they can turn over a lot of line quickly and accurately.

G Loomis NRX

G Loomis is easily one of the top manufacturers of high-quality fly rods. They are usually the end goal for most fly anglers when it comes to lifetime fly rods. They carry a steep price tag, but the quality of these rods are second to none in most experts opinions.

Handling

The NRX Saltwater 8wt model is a 4-piece blank that has incredible strength but is only available in a 9’ rod length. These are graphite rods but utilize the nano-resin technology making them light and strong.

The rod uses a full wells cork grip, though the front end of the grip is a bit wider than the back end with the intention of giving you better control on long casts. The up-locking rings on the reel seat are easy to use and give a stable and secure lock on your reel.

Casting and Wrangling

These rods have a very fast taper which is the same as fast action, but they do not have stiff rod tips. This gives the NRX pretty great casting under 40 feet which is usually the weak point for 8wt rods. As far as casting out to 75 and even 100 feet, the NRX can give you tight loops, high line speeds, and accuracy with heavier lures. We also like how well this rod shoots line.

Orvis Recon

The recon has several 8wt models available with different lengths. 7’11”, 9’, and 10’ lengths and those options are a big plus in our eyes because it allows you to match the rod with your main casting style.

Handling

The reel seat uses a double up-locking mechanism to secure the reel, but it runs into the same problems as the TFO BVK rod. But hey, when that is the biggest concern on a fly rod, it’s a pretty dang good rod.

It has an excellent full wells cork grip and also a short fighting butt with a rubber stopper. With its handle and heavy power rating, the recon can provide a lot of leverage on larger fish.

Casting and Wrangling

This is a mid-priced rod, and we only bring that up because its performance is much closer to that of the high-end rods. Like most 8wt rods, the Recon has a fast action taper. This rod has plenty of power, but the stiffness of the rod in hurts the accuracy slightly at ranges within 35 feet. And that is relative to the perfect fly rod.

Compared to a lot of rods out there, it’s a stretch for us to complain about accuracy. You’re not going to have an issue getting heavy buggers or zonkers out past 60 feet. As the length of the rod increases, the power and accuracy you get at longer ranges increases, but the performance up close declines slightly.

Conclusion

An 8 weight fly rod is a versatile tool that can be utilized in multiple fishing applications, and there are a TON of 8 weight fly rod uses. Perhaps more so than any other weight of fly rod. There are a lot of excellent options out there for 8wt fly rods with almost every major fly rod manufacturer presenting several models. We recommend checking out the TFO BVK, which is a good mix of price vs performance.

We hope this short article explained some 8 weight fly rod uses, some key attributes of quality 8wt rods, and has given you some rod options to consider before your next trip to the water.

Have a favorite 8 weight fly rod? Have a good or bad experience with any of the rods we covered? Let us know below in the comments. Like, share, and comment below!

Gun ownership and control in the U.S. has long been a contentious topic, highlighting an intricate balance between constitutional rights and public safety. At its center lies student rights as they intersect with legal restrictions on firearm possession; this article investigates this multifaceted issue by exploring its complexities, legal landscape, and role of activism in shaping its narrative. As students’ voices continue to play a crucial role in the ongoing dialogue, understanding the nuances of this debate becomes essential for finding common ground and forging equitable solutions. This article sheds light on the intricate dynamics surrounding student rights and the complexities of gun ownership in the United States.

Perspectives of the Second Amendment in the U.S. Constitution

Since 1791, when it was ratified into law, the Second Amendment of the U.S. Constitution has caused much legal and political debate over its meaning and application. Some maintain it protects unrestricted firearm ownership for individuals, while others argue its primary goal is maintaining state militias.

The Second Amendment has been interpreted differently by various Supreme Court decisions over time, as seen by landmark cases such as District of Columbia v. Heller (2008), wherein the court upheld an individual’s right to possess firearms for self-defense within their home – although these rights may be subject to regulation and limitation by certain states and governments.

Student Rights within Educational Institutions

Student gun rights can be complex. While students have Second Amendment rights like any citizen, these may be restricted by educational institutions that impose policies and regulations concerning firearms on campus in order to ensure safety for students, faculty, staff, and all others enrolled there.

Policies designed to combat gun-related incidents often include restrictions on carrying concealed weapons on campus and dormitories or bans on open carry altogether. While such regulations aim to minimize risks within educational environments, they can sometimes create tensions between students wishing to exercise their Second Amendment rights and institutions attempting to ensure a safe atmosphere.

Legal Restrictions on Student Gun Ownership

Institutional policies and federal and state laws both limit student gun ownership. For instance, the Gun-Free School Zones Act of 1990 restricts who may possess firearms on school property knowingly; this restriction covers areas surrounding elementary and secondary schools as well as restricts where students can carry firearms legally.

State laws regarding firearm possession and carrying on and off college campuses vary considerably, ranging from permitting concealed carry permits to bring guns onto campus grounds to no-carry policies on educational premises; all this can lead to considerable confusion for students navigating their rights and legal implications.

Students and Student Activism – Its Function and Implications

Debates over student rights and gun ownership have inspired widespread activism among young people. Following tragic incidents involving gun violence at educational institutions like Parkland in 2018, student-led movements advocating for tighter gun control measures gained national traction, underscoring their importance when balanced with student safety considerations.

Young people’s activism has played a critical role in shaping public opinion and legislative actions, underscoring their importance as voices for discussing gun ownership and control.

How to Navigate a Complex Landscape

Students looking to exercise their Second Amendment rights within legal restrictions and institutional policies must become familiar with their state and educational institution’s regulations regarding gun possession. This may involve researching state gun laws, applying for concealed carry permits where available, and adhering to campus firearm policies.

Students should engage in open and respectful dialogue regarding this issue with peers, educators, and policymakers to address concerns and gain an in-depth knowledge of student rights and gun ownership issues.

As students grapple with the complexities of student rights and legal restrictions on gun ownership, they also often struggle with academic responsibilities. If your schedule is tight or you need extra help with coursework, a great option for meeting academic obligations while engaging in gun control discussions is to buy a philosophy paper on speedypaper.com, a reputable academic writing service. Such an approach allows students to participate in these crucial discussions while fulfilling academic responsibilities.

Conclusion 

At its core, student rights and legal restrictions on gun ownership is an intricate issue that often causes tensions to escalate into a contentious debate. While the Second Amendment upholds an individual’s right to bear arms, educational institutions and various levels of government often impose restrictions to enhance public safety. Navigating this complex landscape successfully requires having an in-depth knowledge of relevant laws and policies as well as engaging in constructive dialogue to bridge divides about gun control and ownership.

Establishing an equitable balance between protecting students’ constitutional rights and maintaining safety in educational environments remains a formidable task. Doing so requires continuing discussions, legal tweaks, and commitments from all parties involved – students, educators, parents, and the broader community alike. With our nation grappling with this issue, it cannot be overemphasized how essential open dialogue, informed decision-making, and proactive measures against gun incidents are. Only through collective effort can equitable solutions that simultaneously protect both individual rights and public safety within institutions.

The first shot I ever took of APEX TSS Turkey hunting ammunition put 297 pellets into a 10″ at 40 yards. Before the morning was through, I found a choke tube that would give me 378 pellets in that same circle at the same range. To put that into perspective, that is a dinner plate with almost 400 holes in it, we are talking about devastating effectiveness. Most lead turkey loads do not even have that many pellets in the shell!

The APEX TSS Turkey loads have demonstrated the best pattern efficiency of any turkey load I have ever shot as of this writing. The patterns are amazing. And as I understand it, others have gotten even tighter patterns with tighter chokes. Now there does come a point where the pattern can be too tight but more on that later.

The bottom line is this ammo is impressively effective and I could not rate it any more highly. But there is more to it than that. If you are considering this ammo or any TSS turkey shells, this review will provide you with insights and data from my firsthand first tests.

If you are looking for more info on turkey hunting shotguns, ammo, and chokes, check out these podcast episodes I have done on the subject:

1. Turkey Hunting Guns and Ammo For Beginners
2. Turkey Hunting Shotguns | Is Bigger Better?
3. Turkey Hunting Shells, Shot, & Chokes
4. Should You Hunt Turkeys With Tungsten Shot?

The Big TSS Questions.

The two most asked questions regarding turkey hunting ammo of this caliber are:

1. Is that level of performance really necessary?
2. Is this TSS Ammo worth the price?

After having done some tests with the APEX and hunting with TSS in general, those are easy questions to answer. For the first question, yes, this kind of performance is absolutely necessary IF you plan to hunt beyond 40 yards. Is it worth the price? Yes, IF you plant to hunt beyond 40 yards.

Tungsten Super Shot gives you increased range and lethality at range. That is its greatest strength. If you plan to hunt at 25-35 yards, it just is not needed. You can use much cheaper lead shot, like Winchester Long Beard XR to easily and efficiently take birds at close to mid-range. TSS shot gives you the ability to punch out further, to hunt at truly extended ranges. And if you want that flexibility, there is no substitute for the power and patterns that APEX brings to the hunt.

How Many Pellets Do You Need?

My rule of thumb that I use for all turkey hunting ammo of all sizes and densities is 100 pellets in a 10″ circle at the range you plan to shoot. At close range, almost anything will work for turkey hunting, lead target loads, steel, bismuth, anything. When you get to the 40 yard line however, your choices are very few if you want to get 100 pellets in a 10″ circle. There are a handful of lead loads that are up to the task, like the Winchester Long Beard.

If you want to hunt beyond 40 yards, lead quickly drops below the pattern density threshold. Even though the marketing sometimes quotes things like “Putting twice the pellets in a 10″ circle than comparable turkey loads out to 60 yards” you need to ask what are they really claiming? They are saying their lead turkey ammo is twice as good as others, but none of them live up to the standard of 100 pellets in a 10″ circle at 60 yards. But APEX TSS Turkey does.

Pattern & Ballistics Gel Test Results

I put APEX to the test at 40 yards and at 60 yards with the same Carlson’s 0.670 turkey choke and here is what I saw: 378 pellets of #9 shot at 40 yards with 170 pellets at 60 yards. This means that at 60 yards, the APEX is more effective than almost every lead load on the market is at 40 yards. These shells easily give you the ability to punch out to 70 yards, perhaps more if you have a tighter patterning choke than I did.

You might wonder if these tiny #9 TSS pellets still pack enough punch to get the job done. Well from my field testing, the #9 TSS has about 32% more power at 40 yards than lead #6, which gives it almost as much ballistics gel penetration as lead #4. And at 50 yards, the APEX TSS still had 3.26″ of gel penetration. Which is mind blowing. That is a lot of numbers, but what it means is that at range the TSS #9 packs similar power to the largest lead shot that is legal to use in my state.

I tested the APEX TSS Turkey in 3″ shells with 2.25 oz of #9 tungsten shot going at 1150 FPS using a Mossberg 940 Pro Turkey shotgun with a 24″ barrel topped with a Holosun 507k red dot. For even more, check out my video where I pattern tested multiple chokes with the APEX TSS Turkey ammo:



Can A Pattern Be Too Tight?

It can be easy to get the impression that a tighter pattern is always better, and with TSS you can actually get to the point where a pattern can be too tight. Of course, pattern density is relative to range, so if you go far enough even the tightest pattern becomes perfect. But at close range, a pattern can be so tight that you are able to miss a turkey.

If your pattern is softball sized at 20 yards so you can have a tight pattern at 60 yards, then it can be like trying to hunt turkeys with a slug gun or a rifle when you are only aiming for head shots.

I personally still want to have some margin of error at 20 and 30 yards so I can take birds that come in that close. So for me, the patterns I got with the Carlsons .670 turkey choke were ideal. Some people aim for even tighter patterns to be able to shoot even further, and that is cool, but I cannot see myself needing to shoot past 70 yards where I hunt. For my hunting area, a good realistic long-range shot is about 50-55 yards. I cannot see much further than that.

Here are some additional videos I’ve done on turkey hunting ammo to help you take things to the next level.

• The 4 Types Of Turkey Hunting Ammo
• 8 Turkey Hunting Ammos Put To the Test
• The Truth & Lies About Tungsten Shot
• How Much Difference Do Turkey Chokes Make

Cons & Concerns

So, it is not all rainbows and sunshine with these loads, there are a couple of cons. First, the recoil is major. For one or two shots under the adrenaline of hunting conditions, its ok. But for pattern testing at the range, the kick is brutal. I would recommend sizing down from the 2.25 oz to the 2.0 oz 12-gauge version to trim off some recoil energy.

Just shedding that 0.25 oz of shot cuts recoil from about 66 foot-pounds of recoil energy to 54 foot-pounds. That is a major help to the shoulder. A semi-auto shotgun can also help, check out this article I did on the subject: Do Semi-Auto Shotguns Have Less Recoil REALLY? All TSS that is hotly loaded will have the same concerns, thankfully APEX has enough load options that you can pick how much shot and recoil you want.

Second, the cost is high on TSS shells, coming in at nearly $13 per shell. You can save some if you step down to 2.0 oz version as well. They are about the same price as other TSS loads on the market, if not a little less expensive. They compare well, but TSS turkey ammo in general is expensive.

As I said early on, it is worth it if you are going to use it to its full potential. Most hunters shoot one or two shells a year in the field so a box of 5 shells may last you 3 years or more once you are sighted in, that is not a bad investment for the best turkey ammo on the market. But if you are going to hunt at short range with it, save the money and buy lead.

Conclusion & Recommendation

The APEX TSS Turkey loads are just devastatingly effective. So much so that a 20 gauge is probably more than enough for most hunting scenarios. There is really no need for the more heavily loaded 3.5″ 12-gauge shells either. In fact, this ammo really does make a 28-gauge shotgun viable for turkey hunting, those shells still have 477 pellets of #9 TSS in them.

In conclusion, I also really like APEX as a company. It is a veteran owned American company with a great story and high quality. These TSS turkey shells demonstrate outstanding performance at a good market price, and they are viable on their own merits. Being able to support a great company is just another big benefit in my book.

Be sure to listen to The New Hunters Guide Podcast and check us out on YouTube.

Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!

George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.

The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.

This is true even with Lew’s superior spinning rods and reels and Strike King’s premium Tour Grade fishing lines.

String the reel wrong and you’ll be plagued with line twist, short casts and poor sensitivity. Do it right and you’ll get the superior performance you expect from every Lew’s reel.

SHOP FISHING LINE

Fluorocarbon and Monofilament Lines

Spinning reels perform at their best with fluorocarbon and monofilament lines no heavier than 8-pound test. A heavier line doesn’t flow through the guides as smoothly, which reduces casting distance and efficiency.

First run the fishing line from its spool through the first guide above the reel. Then open the reel’s bail and tie the line to its spool with an Arbor knot. After tying the knot, close the bail and you are set to begin winding.

The Flat Spool Method

Lay the line’s spool on whichever side allows the line to come off of it counterclockwise. If the line comes off clockwise it will twist. As you wind the reel, run the line through your fingers below the guide and apply firm pressure.

Stop after 15 cranks or so and release the line in your fingers. If the line is limp and without twist, continue winding. If the line twists around itself, the wrong side of the spool is facing up. Flip the spool over and resume cranking. Double check the line for twist after another 15 cranks.

The Upright Spool Method

Another option is to set the line spool in some type of holder so that it sits upright on edge, or use the Strike King Sidewinder tool that comes in every package of Tour Grade Line. The line should come off the top of the spool and straight through the guide. Here again, apply finger pressure to the line as you wind.

When to Stop Winding

The reel is full when the line comes to within about 1/8-inch of the spool’s outer edge. Stopping short of this will reduce casting distance and the reel’s speed. If you fill the reel to the very edge of the spool, bird’s nests are inevitable.

Spooling Braided Line

Because braided line has no memory, it will not twist if you lay the spool flat on either side or use the upright spool method. However, braided line is so slick that it will slip on the reel’s spool regardless of the knot you use. You must first attach a length of monofilament or fluorocarbon to the reel’s spool and knot it to the braid.

Braid is so much thinner at the same diameter than monofilament or fluorocarbon that it takes up less room on the spool. Consider backing the spool with a less expensive monofilament so you don’t use more braid than you need.

The advantages of braided line are so numerous that top pros, including Oklahoma’s Andrew Upshaw, use it almost exclusively.

“Since braided line doesn’t stretch, it is super sensitive and delivers much better hook sets,” Upshaw said. “I love Strike King’s Tour Grade yellow braid because I can see it so well.”

A gossamer braid never becomes springy, so it allows for longer casts, especially with light finesse lures. You can also use a stronger line if you wish. Many pros opt for 15-pound braid.

Once you’ve got your spinning reel spooled up and have taken it fishing a few times, make sure you know how to clean and maintain it!

SHOP SPINNING REELS

Watch How Mark Zona Does It

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Vortex has a reputation of producing high-quality rifle scopes in a budget range that every buyer can afford. The best thing is, you don’t have to pay extra to get their VIP warranty, and you don’t have to wonder if you’re getting the best price.

Vortex scopes consistently hold their value as they’ve proven to be rugged, reliable, and accurate machines – as you will see in our Vortex optics reviews.

Whether it’s entry-level quality, a premium, HD scope, or something in between, you can expect you’re getting the absolute best in your price range.

Vortex – they’re doing their job: providing you with quality options. It’s time you do yours – make sure you buy a scope that is as ready as you are for every situation you’re brave enough to face, be it in the field, hunt, or at the range.

Best Vortex Scopes

Vortex Rifle Scope Reviews

1. Crossfire II 3-9X40 Review

The 3-9×40 specs never fail when you plan on using the same scope for a range of shooting applications. It’s also the easy pick in a lineup of similarly priced scopes because it’s made with high-performance quality iconic to the Crossfire II series.

Pros:

• Price
• BDC reticle
• FMC optics
• Capped/resettable turrets
• Fog/waterproof

Cons:

• Canted reticles

Take this thing out to the range or the field since you can holdover out to 500 yards with hashmarks for winddrift too. It’s easy to do with 60 MOA in travel adjustment, 1/4 MOA clicks, and the dead-hold BDC reticle. Once you’re sighted-in to your 100-yard zero, reset your turrets to “0” without any tools required.

With FMC (fully multi-coated) optics, a fast-focus eyepiece, and 3.8″ of eye relief, you’re all set to get Vortex image quality.

Unfortunately, canted reticles either happen at the range or out of the box – clearly a defect that Vortex’s VIP warranty can take care of. Good thing, it’s not the trend.

This isn’t a cheap scope like every other one in the market with a similar price tag. It’s a high-performing one with unmatched warranty coverage for range, tactical, and hunting use. For as popular as it is, it’s a good bet you know someone with this very scope on their rig – that’s why you’re here!

2. Strike Eagle 1-6X24 Review

Sporting an AR-15? For close to mid-range hunting, patrol, or law enforcement applications, the Strike Eagle 1-6x scope was made for it. With low variable power, an AR-BDC 5.56 reticle, and some high-end features to brag about, this scope is bound to please.

Pros:

• Price
• Glass-etched reticle
• Illuminated reticle
• AR-BDC reticle
• 30 mm tube

Cons:

• Restricting eyebox

There’s some anecdotal evidence that the Strike Eagle (SE) has an unforgiving eyebox. If you plan on shooting in 3-gun comps with the SE, you mightn’t appreciate the tight parameters to achieve the right eye-to-image alignment.

Fortunately, most buyers don’t experience any optical issues, and the glass-etched, illuminated, AR-BDC reticle makes for effective shooting in the hunt, on patrol, or for home defense. The AR reticle is designed for the popular 5.56 mm cartridge, and the illuminated segmented circle makes for rapid target acquisition.

With 1/2 MOA adjustments, a wide and robust 30 mm tube body, and low, capped profile turrets, it’s really not a wonder why it’s an extremely popular AR scope for the price. The SE is set and ready to take a beating and bring down targets both near and far.

3. Viper HST 4-16×44 Review

The HST series of scopes is the perfect combination of the Viper PST and HS lines. Favorite features are meticulously paired together with a tactical approach, and what you end up with is the long-ranging Viper HST 4-16×44.

Pros:

• Side focus
• 30 mm tube
• 4″ long eye relief
• XD glass
• Zero Stop

Cons:

• Windage turret issues

It seems a rare occurrence of various windage turret issues plague the buyer. Anything from backwards spinning adjustments to loose turret attachments is the cause of frustration – nothing the VIP warranty can’t handle.

This is a tactical scope all the way. It has tall, exposed turrets that definitely demands attention, a robust 30 mm tube that provides 75 MOA in adjustments, and a fiber optic radius and Mag-View bar.

The VMR-1 MOA reticle has hashmarks for long-ranging shots with holdover points for wind correction. The reticle is in the SFP (second focal plane), so crosshairs will stay thin and won’t obscure your target for tight groupings at extended ranges.

With Extra-low dispersion (XD) glass elements, you’ll have minimal, if any at all, chromatic aberration and the best clarity a side focus and XR glass coatings can achieve. The CRS Zero Stop is always a much-appreciated feature.

If you’re after a feature-packed scope, the HST has a long list of them.

4. Viper PST Gen II 5-25X50 Review

Precision. Accuracy. Long-range. If there’s a scope worth pulling the trigger on, it’s with a PST Gen II scope. High magnification, FFP reticle, and optimum clarity – nothing is beyond your reach.

Pros:

• XD glass
• Glass-etched reticle
• Illuminated/FFP reticle
• RZR Zero Stop
• 30 mm tube

Cons:

• Heavy
• Stiff magnification ring

It goes without saying that this scope is heavy at 31.2 oz. It’s the trade-off for all the features and build quality in this precision rifle scope. The magnification ring has said to be stiff, and there’s some demand from buyers that a throw lever be included as an accessory which would be convenient for the wide 5-25x power range, but it’s a separate buy if you want it.

The glass-etched EBR-2C reticle is in the FFP (First Focal Plane) so you can reliably use the illuminated holdover points at any point in the magnification range. With 10 illumination intensity settings and “off” positions in between on the side focus knob, you can shoot accurately at any time of day. The RZR Zero Stop feature allows you to sight-in, set your zero, and return to it with ease whenever you dial out.

With a 30 mm tube, you have 70 available MOA elevation and 35 MOA windage adjustments. XD (Extra-low dispersion) glass elements and XR FMC Coatings work together with the large 50 mm aperture to bring the brightest and clearest image quality you can expect from Vortex.

This is a lot to have in a scope, but when you demand precision, you must demand the absolute best.

5. Razor HD Gen III 1-10×24 FFP Review

Vortex has released the Gen III Razor HD and the 1-10x is more comparable in configuration to the Razor HD Gen II-E than the Razor HD Gen II. For those who understand how FFP reticles and focusing works on an LPVO, the Razor HD Gen III 1-10x will meet and exceed your expectations.

Pros:

• LPVO
• APO/ED optics
• FFP glass-etched reticle
• Friction Reduction System
• Low capped turrets

Cons:

• Eyebox at max. mag.

The Gen III LPVO has excellent eye relief of 3.6”, however the eyebox from 8-10x (max power) has said to be unforgiving, enough so to form complaints. As expected, max magnification is better suited to those who have the time to align themselves perfectly with it.

At 1x power, the FFP reticle does get small and there is some mention of fisheye effect. The ocular focus allows for crisp reticle focus on high-powered scopes, but on an LPVO it serves to focus the image. At 1x, it’s important to use the eyepiece ring to acquire a flat image at 1x if you experience distortion. Serving as the only focusing mechanism, it has been factory-set for parallax at 150 yards.

The optics are made with an APO system, ED glass, Optically Indexed Lenses, and XR FMC coatings. It has the works to provide edge-to-edge sharpness and color-true resolution.

The reticle is glass-etched, located in the FFP, and features the EBR-9 reticle in either MOA or MRAD with drop and windage compensation. The 1 MOA dot and segmented circle are illuminated with 11 intensity levels. The third turret illumination is complete with intermittent off positions and a locking mechanism.

Turrets are capped, low profile, and have ¼ MOA adjustments. The 34mm aluminum tube houses a premium brass alloy erector tube system with a chromium vanadium spring. It supports a steel-on-steel Friction Reduction System for tactile, accurate, long-lasting turret integrity.

It has optical, mechanical, and performance quality that will serve competitors, law enforcement, and target shooters well.

Other Vortex Scope Reviews:

• Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8×24 FFP Review (Range Tested)
• Vortex Razor HD LHT 3-15×42 Riflescope Review
• Vortex Viper HS 2.5-10×44 Riflescope Review (BDC Reticle)
• Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8×24 Riflescope Review (AR-BDC3 MOA Reticle)
• Vortex Crossfire II 3-12x56mm AO Hog Hunter Rifle Scope (with V-Brite Reticle)
• Vortex Optics Diamondback 4-12×40 Second Focal Plane Rifle Scope – Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (MOA)
• Vortex Crossfire II Review – 4-12×44 Rifle Scope with Dead-Hold BDC MOA (CF2-31015)
• Vortex Optics Diamondback HP 4-16X42 Rifle Scope w/ Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (DBK-10019)
• Vortex Viper HS 4-16×50 Long Range Rifle Scope Review (VHS-4307)
• Vortex Optics Viper PST 6-24x50mm FFP Scope w/ EBR-1 MOA Reticle (PST-624F1-A)

More Vortex Optics Reviews:

• Vortex Optics Reviews: Rangefinders & Monoculars
• Vortex Binoculars Review: Our Top 5 Picks of Their Best Binoculars
• Vortex Red Dot Review: Our Pick of Their 5 Best Sights
• Vortex Spotting Scope Review: Our Pick of Their 5 Best Spotters

Source of Images: VortexOptics.com

The beaver is an abundant furbearer throughout most of North America, and trapping is an enjoyable and rewarding activity that can produce high quality fur pelts for mittens or hats, and meat that makes excellent table fare. Beavers are quite easy to locate, and easy to trap once you get them figured out. A wide variety of traps are used to catch beaver. The best beaver trap probably depends on your individual situation. Let’s take a look at the options.

330 Conibear / Bodygrip Trap

The 330 is the most common trap used to catch beaver. It is a large bodygripping trap (also often referred to as a ‘Conibear’) typically measuring 10″x10″. The 330 is usually placed in blind sets along a beaver’s natural travelway. As the beaver moves along a trail or run in the water or at the water’s edge, it travels through the trap opening, trips the trigger and is caught. The 330 is designed to be a quick kill trap, which is very humane and effective. Being such a big and powerful trap, it can be very dangerous if not handled or used properly. Be sure to take precautions, use safety devices where appropriate, and never set these traps in a location where they could catch a domestic animal. Most states require these traps be set in water to avoid catching nontarget animals.

330 traps are made by a variety of manufacturers, including Duke, Bridger, Victor (the owner of the name ‘Conibear’), Belisle, and RBG. The Duke 330’s are the cheapest and provide the best bang for your buck. They are actually a bit smaller than most 330’s, measuring 10″x9″ instead of 10″x10″. Bridger and Duke both make a magnum version of this trap (Bridger’s is 10″x10″, Duke’s is 10″x9″), which closes completely without any gaps, and often results in extra catches by holding beavers that are only caught by the tail, foot or other body part that would allow them to pull out of most other traps. The only thing I don’t like about the magnum style is that I find some of them very difficult to set, particularly the Bridgers. Some adjustment can help with this. The Belisle 330’s are also a magnum type trap but with a different jaw style. They are made of top quality construction, have superior safety catches and triggers, and are the top of the line trap with a correspondingly high price tag. RBG bodygrip traps are unique in that the jaws are shaped in a circle rather than a square, appealing to an animal’s natural tendency to enter round openings.

330’s can catch otter as well, especially if the trigger is configured to cover a large percentage of the jaw opening. They also catch the occasional muskrat that trips the trigger in just the right location while swimming at the right speed.

Although the 330 is by far the most common beaver trap, other sizes can be used to take beavers as well. The 280 bodygrip trap has an opening of 8″x8″. It can catch beavers in the right situation, particularly in areas with very small runs and trails. Smaller beaver are more likely to be caught in 280’s, but I have caught larger beavers in these traps occasionally as well. With the smaller trap it can be a challenge to get the beaver to swim through the opening. Sometimes they’ll swim around the trap instead. Some trappers have good success using 280’s when they are baited as opposed to using them in blind sets. Although beavers can be caught in 220 bodygrip traps, with 7″x7″ jaw spreads, it’s not as common and I wouldn’t recommend it. On the other end of the spectrum, Minnesota Brand makes a huge bodygrip trap, the MB 1216, which measures 12″x16″ and is designed to cover large, wide runs. This can also be a very effective trap, but misses are possible as well, because a beaver can often swim through the large opening without setting the trigger off at all, or setting it off too late to be effectively caught. RBG makes a Big Bear, a 10″x22″ opening trap, that works on the same principal.

TS-85

The TS-85 has been gaining in popularity among beaver trappers for years. This coil spring foothold trap has a massive 8.5 inch jaw spread, which allows for a large target area for the beaver to put its foot and get caught. Foothold traps for beaver are most commonly set as drowning sets in the water near shore. They are designed to catch a beaver as it approaches the shore or enters the water from land. Proper depth and guide sticks, as well as lure and bait placement all play a part in a trapper’s success using footholds for beaver. The TS-85 was designed by professional trapper Tim Sawatzky and has a lot of experience behind it. The trap is easy to set and has several features, including a dogless design with easily adjustable pan tension and high lever lockup on the jaws. It’s a nice trap for the money and my favorite beaver foothold trap.

MB-750

The MB-750 is a beast of a trap. Designed and built by Minnesota Trapline Products, the trap is super strong and sports a 7+ inch jaw spread, smaller than the TS-85 but still pretty large. One unique feature of the trap is that it has a locking mechanism that holds both jaws down, eliminating the loose jaw. Some trapper have issues with the loose jaw being flipped up by a beaver while moving through the set area, causing the trap to fail to connect. The fact that this trap has no loose jaw, however, means that it’s a bit dangerous to set for the inexperienced – your fingers are right in the danger zone when making any adjustments to the pan!

Related: MB-750 Beaver/Otter Trap Review

WCS Pro 7.5

The WCS Pro 7.5 is basically a reboot of the extremely popular CDR trap. The CDR was a 7.5 inch jaw spread beaver trap a simple, effective design. The WCS Pro 7.5 features a solid chain and swivel system, wire levers which make it fast underwater, and the Paws-I-Trip pan system, a very popular feature that I’m a big fan of.

Bridger #5

The Bridger #5 is a work horse of a beaver trap with a simple design and a very reasonable price tag. Minnesota Trapline Products has made some recent improvements to the trap design and construction. It’s a good contender in the beaver foothold trapping game.

No-BS Beaver Extreme

Kendall Obermeir has made some noise in the trapping industry with a new line of No-BS traps that are super impressive. Their ruggedness of design, top quality products and workmanship and unique new features make these traps unique and worth checking out. The Beaver Extreme trap features heat treated steel, a lower pan, dogless design, and the traps are pre-coated from the factory.

Duke 850-FJ

The Duke 850 is the newest beaver trap on the market. The 850-FJ is the closed jaw model, designed for beaver (the offset jaw trap of the same name is designed for wolf and mountain lion). This trap is essentially a larger beefed up version of the Duke 550 or 650 traps, which were almost a carbon copy of the MB-550 coyote trap. The trap features heavy cast steel jaws, heavy duty chain and swivels, four coiled, and the Paws-I-Trip pan system. It’s a nice looking trap, but hasn’t been on the market long enough for me to really get a feel of how it works for different trappers.

So, What’s the Best Beaver Trap?

There are plenty of great options for beaver trappers these days, which makes it tough to determine the best trap. The 330 is the best type of bodygrip/conibear trap for beaver trapping without question, and if I had to choose a ‘best’ brand of 330 I’d go with Belisle. That said, all of them work and catch beavers effectively.

When it comes to foothold traps for beaver, it’s tough to say. The different models vary quite a lot. I prefer the TS-85, but there are advantages and disadvantages of each model, and I haven’t used them all extensively. Regardless of what you choose, if you pick from the list above you’ll have yourself an excellent beaver trap that will effectively catch beavers year after year.

Today the pump shotgun is a pretty utilitarian tool. Most have next to no frills; any accessorizing is usually limited to lights, lasers, magazine extensions or loading ports. There’s nothing wrong with this. One does not need or even want figured wood with hand-cut checkering for defending one’s home, breaching a door or bringing down a duck in a marsh. But a century ago elegance was as much a part of gun design as practicality.

Pump- or slide-action long guns have been around for a long time. Alexander Bain of Britain received the first patent for a pump action in 1854. During the latter part of the 19th century Winchester, which was the recognized leader in lever-action repeating rifles, tasked John Browning with providing the company with its first repeating shotgun, and because Winchester was all about lever actions it wanted its repeater to be a lever-gun as well. Browning responded with what would be known as the Model 1887 shotgun. The Model 1887 enjoyed some success, but it did have some handling and reliability issues.

Winchester eventually ceded to Browning the notion that a pump-action shotgun would be a better, more reliable repeater. In 1893 the company introduced a slide-action shotgun designed by Browning. There were immediate issues with the Model 1893, one of which was the 1893 was designed for black powder shells. Ammo companies were rapidly changing to smokeless powder in their shotshells, and Winchester’s brass were terrified that they would be vulnerable to lawsuits from people injured from shooting smokeless loads in the black-powder Model ’93. Within four years Winchester redesigned the Model ’93 into the Model 1897, replete with a solid-top receiver and 2 3/4″ chambers. Another safety feature was incorporated so that the fore-end had to be pushed forward slightly to unlock the bolt before the action could be operated. It may have been the first instance of a product recall in America; Winchester offered to buy back or exchange a Model ’97 for a Model ’93. The Model ’97 was a solid shotgun with more than a million copies made during its 60-year production run.

Thomas Crossley (TC) Johnson came to work at Winchester as a 23-year-old engineer in 1885. Johnson would eventually be responsible for no less than eight of Winchester’s most iconic firearms. Soon after the turn of the 20th century Johnson began to work on a more modern design than that of the Model ’97. Competition for marketplace share was intense between gunmakers, and all of them invested heavily into keeping themselves ahead of the technological and design curve. The most objectionable feature of the Model ’97 was that damnable exposed hammer. It just seemed offensible to the sensibilities of a refined shooter. The fix that Johnson came up with was to simply hide the hammer inside an enclosed and streamlined receiver.

Johnson also redesigned the internals. Whereas the Model ’97 used a carrier or shell lifter that does double duty to lock the bolt, the Model 1912 locks the bolt directly into the receiver and has a separate bolt release activated by pulling the trigger or pushing a button at the rear of the trigger guard. The carrier is hinged at its rear and under spring tension so that when the bolt is in battery it is more or less flush with the bottom of the receiver. This arrangement is stronger than that of the 1897, though the older shotgun has never been criticized for a lack of strength. Like the Model ’97, the Model 1912 was not originally produced with a disconnector, meaning that a shooter can hold the trigger down and fire the gun by simply operating the slide. This feature seems to mostly impress people who know little about guns or how to use them, as well as the movie going public.

The Model 12—as it became known after 1919—was made from the finest steel alloys of the time. Parts were forged and required extensive, and often complicated, machining to produce them. Winchester’s marketing guys immediately christened it the “Perfect Repeater,” and like a lot of those old Winchester nicknames, it struck a chord with the shooting public and became common in usage. All of this came at a price, of course. The Model 12 was about 40 percent more expensive than the ’97, yet it consistently outsold its older brother during the 45-year-span they shared in the Winchester catalog.

When it was introduced, the Model 12 was only available in 20 gauge, 12- and 16-gauge Model 12s became available in late 1913. A 28-gauge Model 12 was brought out in 1934. Sadly, this is the rarest of Model 12s, probably as a result of The Depression and the fact that the 28 gauge—as wonderful as it is—was the prerogative of those with a fair amount of discretionary cash, something sorely lacking during The Depression and World War II. In 1933 a completely scaled down version of the Model 12—the Model 42—came out in .410 bore.

Like most of the great Winchesters, the Model 12 had its ups and downs. During its heyday it was made in Field, Skeet, Trap, Tournament and Super Pigeon grades, the differences primarily being in grades of walnut and engraving. The Heavy Duck Gun was never marked as such. Rather, it was roll marked with “Super Speed and Super X.” These guns were chambered for 3″ magnum shells and debuted in 1935. Some were made with a solid rib; others had a vent rib, but most were plain barreled. A Featherweight model came out in 1961. Beginning in 1928 some Model 12s came from the factory with a Cutts Compensator, this feature was discontinued in 1954. Some were also equipped with the competing Polychoke.

While the majority of Model 12s were field guns, quite a few saw service in the military and law enforcement. Model 12 Trench Guns were produced on special order to the military in 1919. Riot gun versions—again on special order—came about in 1918 and were produced for the subsequent 45 years. All of these marshal shotguns were available in 12 gauge only.

For much of its production run the Model 12 was the repeating shotgun that all others were judged by. Its smooth operation and reliability remains legendary among knowledgeable shotgunners. The fact that it was more expensive than its competitors meant virtually nothing, but eventually it became the shotgun’s undoing. When Remington brought out its Model 870 in 1950, the Model 12 would start feeling its age. The Remington looked almost as good as the Model 12—aficionados can tell them apart in their sleep—and the upstart was as reliable and fast handling as the older Model 12. Post-war production costs were headed into the stratosphere. The increasing costs combined with market share loss put the Model 12 on the chopping block during the infamous 1964 reorganization of the Winchester product line. Customers and gun writers screamed like a calf being branded, but as a stock broker friend of mine once said, “Never underestimate the power of money.” The Model 12 as a production gun was finished.

A few Model 12s leaked out of the Custom Shop until 1980. Another limited run—more like a trickle—was done from 1993 until 2006 by Miroku for USRAC. But the notion that function is everything and form must conform to function, aesthetics be dammed has shoved aside the notion of elegance being a critical part of a sporting tool. Too, it has become more widely accepted that tools are consumable, and replacement is simply a part of doing business.

More than 2 million Model 12s were made, and that legend of smooth operation and durability has fueled some collector interest. Model 12s can be abused, left out in the elements, dropped, kicked or worse and still keep shooting. Given even minimal care, however, a Model 12 will outlast virtually any other pump-gun. If you can find one, a Model 12 is well worth the investment. I inherited mine from an old family friend who went to his reward about 25 years ago. With it I have shot some geese on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, the Mecca of waterfowling. I may not be doing as much waterfowling as I once did, but I can’t imagine being without a Model 12.

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Varmint hunting is more than just an adrenaline-pumping sport, hobby, and means to earn a living.

It’s a way to manage pest populations from getting out of hand, reduce predacity on your livestock, and prevent the risks associated with disease transmission. Sounds a little more serious now, right?

So, what’s the best scope to mount on your scout, AR, or .22 rifle when you want to make an example of the jack rabbits plaguing your garden or the coyotes stalking your chickens?

Every stalker’s hunting conditions are different, so you’ll have to answer that question for yourself. But, we’ll give you a hand in which direction to aim when you’re ready to scope-up and eliminate your prey!

Top Varmint & Coyote Scopes

It would be ideal if those pesky pests prowled your property in broad daylight and slept at night like human beings do. Unfortunately, that’s hardly ever the case. Predators like hogs, coyotes, and wolves will require some stealth and the right equipment come dusk. Rodents like squirrels and prairie dogs make for a fun take-down during the day, and you may even have to be several hundred yards away to get that shot.

Because hunting conditions are going to vary widely, you best know what rifle you want to mount your varmint scope to and consider the range of your actual hunting grounds. This means that there’s not going to be the “one” scope that will get the job done, they’re all going to be different. The scope you will need will depend on what, where, and when you’re hunting.

• Are you wild boar hunting at night? Playing whack-a-mole with groundhogs? Out-foxing the kitten-snatching fox?
• Are you in the open plains of Wyoming or are sub-100 yard shots the average distance out where you live?
• Will you be better off with a night vision rifle scope for nighttime hunting?
• Is your rifle a quiet .22 LR for near-shots, or is it a .223 Remington or .220 Swift for long-distance prowess?

If you’re looking for the one-size-fits-all suggestion here, you’re going to be terribly disappointed. But, if you need an idea on what scopes could fit the bill because you already know the essential tidbits of your hunt and prey, you’re in the right place!

We’ll dish up some of the most well-known and approved varmint scopes that should give you a head start in the buying hunt.

Our Picks for the Best Rifle Scope for Varmint Hunting

1. NightForce NXS 5.5-22X56

Yeah, we went all out with this one. The NXS is good for everything, and it looks like a bad-ass that will get the job done – because it can! It has the best of everything you’d need to take down prairie dogs at 1000 yards and beyond. Crank up your power and expect to see image quality stay true.

The SFP, glass-etched, illuminated reticle with 2 MOA tall and 2 MOA wide crosshairs means extreme precision on small targets for those really long distances. The 30mm tube, Hi-Speed Turret System, and 1250G-resistance all speaks to its expertise in the field.

If there’s a scope you want on your varmint rifle or really any rifle you’re serious about hunting with, it’s going to be this NightForce. With the NXS on your side, vermin won’t stand a chance!

2. Vortex Crossfire II 3-12X56 AO Hog Hunter

If you’re in the South, you might already own one of these bad boys, and you can probably attest that it’s true to its name. The Crossfire II is an ideal scope for the avid hog hunter. When nighttime looms without the right gear and equipment, feral hog hunting shouldn’t be attempted. Instead, head out with the right stuff to be better prepared for success. What’s the right stuff? We’re glad you asked.

It would look like an illuminated center-dot reticle with V-Brite, robust and durable 30mm tube, and provisions for image focus and parallax correction – the AO. The right stuff should also include a weight that can handle heavy recoil for some serious loads barreling out towards the pig.

A lot of the right stuff sounds just like a great Vortex scope. Ha! Whaddaya know? The Vortex has it all.

3. Burris Fullfield II 4.5-14×42

Entry-level price point, mid-range performance, and high-end customer satisfaction. The Fullfield II is the right kind of mid-range scope to take deer, elk, and of course, varmints. Whether it’s squirrels, coyotes, rabbits, or foxes, this Burris scope is a hunter’s scope.

Pros:

• Price
• Adjustable objective
• Ballistic Plex reticle
• Made in Philippines
• Lifetime warranty

Cons:

• No other reticle available

The Fullfield II 4.5-14×42 is only available with the Ballistic Plex reticle. If you don’t like it, you may want to choose a different scope. However, it’s simple, uncluttered, and can be matched with any caliber. The Burris Ballistics Reticle Analysis Tool is an excellent calculator that will provide you with the distances for each holdover.

Being in the second focal plane, crosshairs might be a little thick for hitting squirrels at 800 yards, but it will definitely put you in range if you’re looking at bigger prey like foxes and coyotes. As additional info, it’s wire and non-illuminated.

Instead of a side focus, the Burris scope has an adjustable objective (AO) for focusing at various distances. Turrets are capped and offer up ¼ MOA adjustments with a total of 40 MOA in elevation and windage travel. According to buyers, it tracks excellently and remains accurate out to 700-800 yards. It can handle big-boy kick too beyond 50BMG.

Given its low price point, the Burris Fullfield II is a popular, quality riflescope. Since Burris backs it with their Forever Warranty, it makes the deal even sweeter. Even small things like losing the caps have been quickly replaced by the manufacturer. What you’ll need to get on your own are lens caps. It’s not such a big deal when you can grab the scope for less than $200.

4. ATN X-Sight LTV 3-9x

There are hunters that need night vision for their nighttime varmint and coyote hunts. This is where the ATN X-sight is a welcome scope to this lineup. Affordable, accurate, and simple. ATN nails it with the new design.

Pros:

• Price
• Digital NV
• Ultra-lightweight
• One Shot Zero
• Long battery life

Cons:

• Not smart

The LTV series of X-Sight scopes is a simplified and scaled-down version of the older X-Sight II line. Even though it’s done away with all the extra bells and whistles of digital NV, many love the bold move to make this happen.

This results in a scope that is affordable, incredibly lightweight at 1.6 lbs, and it’s a whole lot slimmer than the night vision scopes of yesterday.

It features ATN’s One Shot Zero that allows you get on point with no wasted ammo. They also kept the HD video recording feature that you can upload online to share your hog hunting success on social media.

Like many old scopes that would only last for a few hours on one battery charge, the LTV scope one-ups them all with a long-lasting battery life of 10 hours. That’s plenty of time to make one heck of a night for hogs or coyotes.

With night vision on your scope, you can take your varmint hunting skills beyond your own honey holes. Take on contracts for local ranchers and teach the kids how to rid the farm of rats. Night vision scopes could improve your varmint hunting efforts.

5. Burris Scout 2-7X32

If you haven’t heard of the Scout, shame on you! You need to get moving more as scout rifles are made to see action, and you won’t get any action if you’re not on the prowl. The Burris scope is incredibly lightweight which is perfect for lighter rifles like an AR as it won’t weigh it down or seem top-heavy.

It’s designed to sit forward on your rifle, so you have all that generous eye relief, the ability to keep two eyes open for increased situational awareness, and full clearance for mounting in front of the ejection port.

It might be a little scope, but in no way is it little in performance and quality. Index-matched, Hi-Lume coatings, one-piece tube, double internal spring-tension system, and full weatherproof-ability makes this Burris optic a winner in the field. Since it’s designed to be extremely compatible with scout setups, no vermin will escape your sights. We almost feel sorry for the little guys – not!

6. Maven CRS.1 3-12×40

To hunt in lowlight or to pick out tan varmints against tan terrains calls for the clearest and sharpest of glass. Maven answers that call with the CRS.1 3-12×40 hunting riflescope.

Pros:

• C-series glass
• CSHR reticle
• Lightweight
• Lifetime warranty
• Made in Japan

Cons:

• No FFP model

The CRS series of riflescopes from Maven are designed for the hunter with SFP reticles, mid-range magnification, and are completely fogproof and watertight. While FFP is becoming more popular in the hunt, SFP is still a practical focal plane for many hunting conditions and average distances, and the CRS series cater to that.

Based off the C-series of Maven’s binoculars, the CRS.1 has exceptionally clear, high contrast, sharp glass, as confirmed by my field test. Having been sourced and made in Japan, it speaks to both the optical and build quality of the scope. With superb resolution for picking out details in low light and noticeable edge-to-edge clarity, this is mid-range quality at an entry-level price point.

The CSHR reticle is wire, in the second focal plane, and based off the RS.1 SHR reticle. As such, it remains the same size from low 3x to high 12 power, and I found it to be highly visible in both lowlight and daylight bright conditions.

Very simple yet effective, the reticle has BDC holdovers along the elevation crosshair. Turrets are low-profile and capped. Adjustments are made in ¼ MOA clicks and the 1” tube offers up a total of 50 MOA travel. These are audible and I was also able to feel the adjustments with gloves on.

From the reticle type to the magnification range, the CRS.1 scope offers the varmint hunter extreme close-range work to long-range potential. That reticle has thin center crosshairs to put it on the coyote or prairie dog even at great distances.

Backed by a lifetime unconditional warranty, Maven presents an uncomplicated rifle scope for the straightforward pest hunter.

7. Barska 4-16X50 AO Varmint

The Barska 4-16X50 AO Varmint rifle scope has earned a mention. For a scope under $100, it’s a great buy to get a taste of what high power, illuminated reticles, and parallax correction features can do for your varmint hunting.

It’s in in no way fair to compare this scope to other brands and quality that we’ve mentioned in our lineup. But, if you’re on an extremely tight budget, and you want to plink off some pests around the farm and property line, the Barska rifle scope might just make you proud!

What to Look For in a Varmint Rifle Scope

The oft repeated features are going to be reiterated over and over again whenever we recommend a rifle scope for any purpose. Buying the best of what you can afford will never get old here. Buying the best glass you can afford plus some is a mantra we live by.

To help clarify what your needs could be, let’s start with magnification. Go higher for long ranging distances, and stay with low power scopes for close-mid ranges. The higher the power, expect to spend more for ultimate clarity.

Illuminated reticles are essential to varmint hunting since critters come out of the woodworks when the sun calls it a day. Variable reticle brightness may also make all the difference when it can potentially wash out your target and sight picture.

BDC reticles are nice to have and can be vital for extreme long-range shots. However, a complicated reticle at night can easily complicate things. Know your gun and your what your rounds will do at given distances, and then a simple duplex reticle should be all you need.

Lastly, your rifle matters a lot. High-velocity and flat shooting caliber guns get it done! But, whether you’re a .22-250 or .223 loyalist, we’re not going to join in on the age-long debate right here.

• Quality glass – The best glass is always the best buy. You’ll see a lot more and a lot further versus trumped-up scopes with poor glass.
• Quality coatings – Same rules apply when shopping for quality glass. The coatings should match the quality glass and cost of the scope.
• Magnification – 1-9x is plenty enough power for close-mid range shots. Higher power scopes are for long shots – you won’t need it in the woods, but you will need it for wide, open plains over several hundred yards.
• Repeatability – Scope has to hold zero. Check on track record or be brand-specific.
• Reticles – Opt for an extremely accurate BDC reticle for extreme long-range shooting. Basic crosshairs should get the job done for most hunting if you intimately know your rifle and loads.
• Illuminated reticles – Enables fast target acquisition and better low-light potential.
• Low light quality – Varmint hunting at night can’t be done if you have a low-grade scope. For nocturnal creatures or varmints that are most active at night, a night vision rifle scope or high-quality low-light scope will go miles in how long you can stay out.
• Cost – Hunting closer to dusk? Spend more. Daylight hunting rodents sub-400 yards? You can compromise on price if budget limits you. Otherwise, spending more money on a quality scope will never be a regretful purchase.
• Warranty – Optics will fail at some point in time. Whether it fails after a few hundred rounds or after decades of service is what matters. Invest in your scope, and ensure you buy from a company that can offer a warranty that matches the quality of the scope. Warranty not good enough? Be brand-specific.

“Last Call”

Deer and elk hunters get to mount their trophy racks to their walls. Do varmint hunters feel swindled out of their physical show of success? Not at all! While a feathered mess of a crow might not be wall-worthy, a handsome pelt makes for a conversation starter, gift, or a comfy pair of slippers.

Vermin can spread disease, cause harm to livestock, and devastate crops. The potential dangers are enough of a reason to assuage the threat – a call which many hunters are more than willing to answer. We wish you happy hunting after you’ve checked in with local, state, and federal regulations. Good luck!

Further Reading

• How to Measure Scope Ring Height (With Pics & Calculations)
• How to Adjust a Rifle Scope: 6 Scope Adjustments Explained!
• How to Level a Scope on a Rifle [Step-by-Step With Pics]
• What is a Rifle Scope Ruler (Mildot Master) & How to Use It?
• How to Lap Scope Rings (& Is Lapping Really Necessary?)