Every deer hunter loves a big 8-pointer!

For today’s #WhitetailWednesday, we decided to look at some of the biggest 8-point bucks ever taken.

It takes some impressive measurements for a buck to crack the 170-inch minimum to make it into the Boone and Crockett record book with only eight scorable points. In fact, it has happened less than 40 times in the club’s storied history. The whitetail bucks on this list are some of the biggest of the bunch.

The Mike Kemble Buck

Ohio hunter Mike Kemble took this magnificent buck back in 2011, and at the time, it was thought to possibly be a new world-record 8-point. The buck grossed an eye-popping 186 inches. For only eight scorable points, that’s an unbelievable number!

Unfortunately, after the mandatory 60-day drying period, the buck fell just short of the record. But this is still an incredible deer at 179 5/8 inches, and Mike is probably the envy of every hunter in his area.

The Vic Bulliner Buck

Michigan isn’t traditionally thought of as a big-buck state, but that’s where this former world-record came from in 2001. Vic Bulliner shot this monster during firearms season in Hillsdale County, which any southern Michigan hunter will tell you is a true big-buck factory. This buck remained a perfect 8-point for most of its life, as two sets of sheds were found from the same deer. One of those sets sported tines that were 13 inches long!

This is as close to perfection as a buck can get. The Bulliner buck grossed 184 1/8 and netted 180 3/8, sharing the world record for a short time with the Vernon Winter buck. Even more impressive than the huge main beams and towering tines, though, is this buck’s incredible mass.

Poached Minnesota Monster

This one is most unfortunate. This buck was sadly poached back in 2009 near Cannon Falls, Minnesota. Photos have spread far and wide across the internet in the years since. The unbelievable rack grossed 190 5/8 and netted 181.

It’s sad a deer hunter’s name isn’t attached to this buck. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources now has the antlers on permanent display at their headquarters in St. Paul. They also have four replicas on display in their “Wall of Shame” locations to show poaching doesn’t pay.

The Jason Sanders Buck

Technically, this old buck is a 9-point, but most people look past the 1-6/8-inch sticker on the buck’s right G2 and call this one for what it is, a world-class Illinois 8-pointer. In fact, it’s the current Boone and Crockett world record, grossing 192 3/8 and netting 184 7/8.

Numerous daytime trail camera photos of this buck teased Sanders before he finally caught up with the beast November 26, 2011. He took the buck down with a well-placed shot from an open-sighted Mossberg 500 shotgun at just 35 yards.

The Vernon Winter Buck

The interesting thing about this list is how many of these bucks have come in just the last 10 years or so. Big 8 pointers aren’t a new phenomenon. The Vernon Winter buck was shot in South Dakota back in 1965 and has been one of the largest 8-points in the books for decades ever since with a net score of 180 3/8.

There are very few details and even fewer photos of this buck, but its sweeping main beams and towering tines make it a buck anyone would be proud of.

We do have to wonder if perhaps this buck got less attention because it’s an 8-point. It also has us wondering how many other world-class bucks might be gathering dust in a garage or attic somewhere, unknown to the deer hunting world because it’s “just an 8-point.”

NEXT: LESS IS MORE: 10 AWESOME BUCKS WITH SIX POINTS OR FEWER

“Survival Bows And Who Should Consider Owning One” was the topic of my previous article and we talked about exactly what a survival bow was good for and where they excelled in the world of archery. We even mentioned that such bows may slowly start to be renamed the “compact modern longbow” and as such form a new segment of the archery market more widely accepted than a weapon thought to be useful purely as a survival tool.

Today however we deal with one of the most widely misconstrued perceptions of what makes a good survival bow. In order to do this we need to take a look at the industry benchmark for what is believed to be a good bow and that is of course no other than the compound bow.

We also need to look at a few other options to compare to and this is where more traditional bows such as the recurve bow, the longbow and the compact modern longbow come into play.

I have many a time come across forums filled with pages and pages of people discussing (and sometimes even arguing) about what the best bow for a survival or SHTF situation would be. There is a somewhat clear divide in opinion on what the answer to this question is and it generally comes from two very distinct camps of people.

The first camp is a camp of people who seem to be more open minded. People who like to question things and make their own opinions based on extensive research and personal experience, as well as the actual experience of others. They ask questions, debate with fair reasoning and seem to have experienced the use of many types of bows and equipment suited to the outdoors. They seem to be more experienced in the outdoors in general and have a wealth of knowledge of what it means to be an outdoorsman. It is this camp that seem to be more open minded toward considering a more traditional bow such as a recurve bow or compact modern longbow for a survival or SHTF situation.

The second camp of people seem to be more set in their thinking. They seem to be more biased in their approach to the debate and almost exclusively seem to have little real world outdoors experience other than their annual 200 yard walk to their tree-stand for the yearly whitetail hunt. Added to this they deem any bow other than a compound bow to be substandard, almost without exclusion and with further prodding it normally comes out that that is all they have ever shot.

It is no wonder that newcomers to the world of “survival archery” can be so confused when it comes to choosing a bow for a survival or SHTF situation and its time to put some thoughts on the table and take a look at the pros and cons of what makes a good survival bow and then discuss which type of bow may be better between a more traditional bow and a compound bow. For the purposes of this article we are going to look specifically at takedown bows (recurves, longbows and compact modern longbows) vs compound bows:

Let’s first take a look at what attributes make for an ideal survival bow. Survival bows need to be:

• Powerful enough to hunt game the size of deer and antelope.
• Accurate enough to take small game such as rabbit, squirrel and medium to large birds.
• Durable enough to last a lifetime
• Easy to maintain
• Easy to transport and free up your hands for other tasks or to carry other equipment such as rifles for self defense.
• Light enough to allow for carry of other necessary equipment
• Simple enough to require no or minimal tools
• Adaptable enough to allow for multiple users or unit members both left and right handed

Those who are trained and experienced in the outdoors in a wide variety of skillsets including survival, hunting, tactical, backpacking, etc will quickly appreciate ALL of the points above. You see a survival or SHTF situation would incorporate most if not all of these skillsets and not just a hunting skillset. That is why I am kicking off this “debate” with a list of “What would make for an ideal survival bow?”

Now let’s move on to compare takedown bows and compound bows against this list of points.

The Compound Bow definitely has plenty of power and is as accurate as bows come, but when it comes to durability one has to question them by considering the amount of moving parts involved as well as just how “fragile” these parts are when it comes to the bow taking knocks and bumps when spending extended time off the beaten path. Personally if I had to make it through a SHTF situation I would not feel terribly comfortable putting it through even the smallest amount of hardship I may encounter on my journey, especially if I wanted it to last a lifetime.

Ease of maintenance is also a big issue when it comes to a SHTF scenario. One usually requires special tools and jigs to restring and maintain a bow and you certainly won’t be able to carry those around with you. Sure you may have these at home, but if you had to move you would have a problem.

Ease of transport is another big disadvantage to compound bows. Unless you are strapping them to your backpack (which increases the risk of damaging them) you will either need to leave it at a basecamp or carry it in your hand and that not only reduces the tasks you can accomplish and where you can travel, but it will certainly become a nuisance at some stage. Imagine trying to move through thick underbrush or climb up banks or swim across a river. Certainly not ticking the box of easy to transport.

From a tools perspective you will be fine so long as you don’t need to change or maintain anything, but scene as this is a bow that is needed to last a lifetime, you will at some stage need those tools and as mentioned above you will at some stage have issues.

And finally, the last point of allowing for multiple users. A compound bow is great in that it allows for various poundages to be dialled in on the same bow. Which is great right? The drawback is that it allows for either a left or a right handed archer, not both and therefore cannot be used in an ambidextrous way. Luckily most archers are right handed so this point is less important than others above.

The Takedown Bow segment has three main categories in the form of the takedown recurve, the takedown longbow and the compact modern longbow such as the SAS Tactical Survival Bow and the SAS Recon Folding Survival Bow (soon to launch at the writing of this article) from Survival Archery Systems.

Each of these 3 types of takedown bows has its own unique attributes which we shall summarize briefly against each of the points on our list.

Bow power is something that is misunderstood when it comes to actual takedown ability. Native North Americans were harvesting bison, elk, moose and deer with bows in the 30#-40# range and it all comes down to arrow placement and blood-loss. If you hit your quarry with any bow 45# and up in the vitals it is pretty much game over. There is enough penetration power to cause enough blood-loss that the quarry will go down. What is important thereafter is your ability to track the quarry after having given it enough time to bleed-out. So takedown bows are a good choice for a survival or SHTF situation for sure.

The accuracy of takedown bows whilst not as good as that of a compound, is generally good enough for small game if you have put in the practice. Don’t think you can just stuff a takedown bow in your bag, whip it out and shoot a squirrel at 30 yards when you get hungry; you will learn a hard lesson. Takedown bows, unless fitted with a well sighted sighting system take practice to learn to shoot with an instinctive style. Other than that they are accurate enough to do the job and thus tick the box.

Durability of takedown bows with respect to real world abuse is orders better than that of a compound bow as you typically only have 3 major parts securely bolted together. The riser and two limbs. Wooden limbs and wooden risers typical of many takedown recurves and longbows are not as durable as composite limbs such as those used on compact modern longbows such as the SAS Survival Bow range, so choose carefully. Composite materials are not only stronger than wood, but can weather out the elements such as rain, sunshine, heat and cold and generally last much, much longer. Wooden products require much care whilst composite materials can take substantially more abuse.

Aluminum is also a great riser material as it has very stable mechanical properties that engineers can use to accurately develop bows to ensure they are working well below material fatigue limits, thereby ensuring your bow will last a lifetime. This is important to remember; if a manufacturer does not claim to have designed a bow using engineering principles then beware, because it normally means designs are more based on touchy-feely shape decisions rather than on structural integrity through material selection and detailed analysis.

Ease of maintenance is up next and again, takedown bows require very little maintenance and just a tool or two at most. Wood certainly requires maintenance to keep it in good condition, but composite limbs and aluminum risers require little to no maintenance at all. You also don’t need special tools for compact modern longbows such as the SAS bows, but for recurves and longbows you will generally need a stringer and an allen key or two.

When it comes to multiple users takedown bows generally cannot account for different poundage needs from users. You are pretty much stuck with one poundage unless you are carrying spare limbs around with you. Recurves and longbows with cutouts restrict left and right hand usage with the same bow, but compact modern longbows with non-cutout shapes such as that on SAS Survival Bows allow for both left and right hand usage by simply swapping the bow between hands.

Lastly, let’s talk about transport ability and weight. This is where the big gamechanger comes in when it comes to choosing a bow for survival. Takedown bows are all comparatively light enough for easy transport when you have other gear you need to ruck around. From a packability point of view they are even better, because they can fit into large backpacks which not only helps protect them, but get them out of your hand. Compact modern longbows are the most compact of the lot and can even fit into one-day packs if they are shorter than the magic number of 21″.

Straight limb bows such as longbows and compact modern longbows pack down much better than recurve bows do and take up much less space. Recurve and longbow limbs are usually quite a bit longer than compact modern longbow limbs so are only compatible with very large backpacks, but all takedown bows are much more suited than a compound bow to a SHTF scenario.

This is super, super important to understand when making a decision on buying a bow for survival. Skilled and experienced outdoorsmen with all the skills we spoke about earlier will tell you that having a bow that can easily fit in a backpack is pretty much the crux of your decision. Why, you ask? Well its like what my dad used to tell me when I was a kid trying to do stuff in the workshop and I had a whole bunch of tools I was trying to use, “Put that down and use both hands boy.” He was right and it comes down to freeing your hands up. It makes almost everything you do so much easier.

Like carrying a rifle if you are in a tactical survival situation for instance. Or how about dragging your bike rack deer back to camp? Climbing, swimming, hand-to-hand combat, running with a pack; the list goes on.

Having the ability to get your bow out the way is in my opinion THE most important attribute of a bow for survival and this is exactly why Survival Archery Systems developed its patented SAS Tactical and Recon Folding Survival Bows. They not only pack down very, very compact, but they are the only bow on the market that has a solution for the transport and protection of your takedown arrows. Our customer’s feedback speaks for itself and the number of repeat sales purchased for friends and family seals our opinion on why we believe that the SAS Survival Bows should be your bow of choice if you are looking for a compact, silent bow for survival that will not only last a lifetime but will do the job you need it to do, each and every time.

Well I hope that helps you in your decision in which bow to choose.

To get more info and get yourself one of the very popular SAS Survival Bows for your bugout or survival bag click this link now – https://www.survivalarcherysystems.com/products/survival_bow.

If you’re looking for a comprehensive guide to Georgia hog hunting, you’ve come to the right place! In this article, I break down when and where you can hunt feral hogs in Georgia, what licenses you need, what weapons are legal, and which wildlife management areas (WMAs) offer you the best chance of putting fresh pork in the freezer.

The first thing you need to know about Georgia hog hunting is that the season dates and regulations are much different on public lands than they are on private. So much so, that for each section of this article, I break down the information separately. If you still have questions after reading the article, feel free to drop them in the comments section and I’ll do my best to answer them.

RELATED: Guide to Georgia’s 2022-2024 Hunting Seasons

License Requirements

Despite their nuisance status, Georgia hog hunters are still required to purchase a hunting license. That’s going to set you back $15 if you’re a resident or $100 if you’re a nonresident. If you’re a nonresident but only plan on hunting for a short period of time, you can purchase a one-day hunting license for $20 and add additional days for $6 each.

The good news is a hunting license is all you need to hunt hogs in Georgia, regardless of whether you’re hunting public or private land. There is no separate permit required for hunting on WMAs or national forests.

To get your Georgia hunting license, head over to the Georgia DNR’s website.

Georgia Feral Hog Season Dates

Private Land

On private land, there is no closed season on hogs. You can hunt them year-round.

Public Land

Georgia public land hog hunting is much more restrictive. Aside from a short hog/coyote season on many WMAs that runs May 16-31, hogs can only be hunted on public land when something else is in season. And you can only use weapons legal for whatever is in season at that time. For example, if squirrel season is open on a WMA, you can hunt hogs on that WMA using small game legal weapons. If archery deer season is open on a WMA, then you can hog hunt on that WMA using archery equipment. The same holds true on Georgia’s national forests as well.

It’s also worth noting that no night hunting or baiting is allowed on WMAs or national forests. Electronic calls may be used. Hunter orange is required when hog hunting during firearms and primitive weapons deer and bear hunts.

Ossabaw Island WMA offers two unique quota hog hunts on one of Georgia’s beautiful barrier islands. This is a great opportunity with high odds of killing several feral hogs in a really cool island setting. Each hunt is limited to 100 hunters, and it currently takes around 6 preference points to draw the January hunt and at least 4 preference points to draw the February hunt. Drawn hunters must provide their own boat transportation to and from the island. There is no public ferry.

Legal Hog Hunting Hours

Private Land

On private land, hogs can be hunted any time, 24 hours a day. Hunting at night with night vision optics is very popular on private land, especially in South Georgia where the terrain is flat, and the hogs often congregate in agricultural fields to feed.

Public Land

On Georgia’s public lands, hog hunting can only be done during daylight hours from one half-hour before sunrise until one half-hour after sunset.

How to Hunt Wild Hogs

Private Land

On private lands, most hog hunting is done with the aid of bait. Corn piles or feeders are put out with stands placed in close proximity. A trail camera on the bait will give you excellent intel about if and when the hogs are using it. Once the hogs are feeding on a regular pattern, it’s time to get in there and shoot some.

Another popular method of hunting hogs on private land is with the use of night vision equipment. This can be done over bait as described above, or on some of the large agricultural fields of South Georgia.

Public Land

Hunting over bait or night hunting are not options for Georgia public land hog hunters. On public land, most hog hunters simply get out in areas where hogs are likely to be — along waterways and in thick cutovers — and simply ease their way through the area looking for fresh sign along the way. You’ll often hear hogs well before you see them, so staying alert and keeping a constant lookout for fresh sign and movement is key.

Another option on public land is to hunt them like deer. That means scouting for the freshest sign and, once you find it, hanging a stand or setting up on the ground and waiting for the hogs to come to you.

Obviously the spot and stalk or set up over fresh sign methods will work on private lands to, but most hog hunters forgo that for the ease of using bait.

Best Places to Hunt Hogs in Georgia

According to the USDA, feral hogs exist in all but a few counties in Georgia. It’s no surprise that those counties make up the metro Atlanta area. What that means is there are hog hunting opportunities across the entire state. However, that doesn’t mean that every county is overrun with feral hogs.

Feral hogs are often pretty spotty across the landscape, with an affinity for traveling major waterways, like the Chattahoochee, Oconee, Flint and Ocmulgee rivers. Keep in mind that while one landowner may not have a hog on his property, another one two miles down the road may be covered up with them. And the guy that’s covered up with them today may not have any a few weeks from now. Feral hogs cover a lot of ground and respond quickly to hunting pressure.

If you’re planning on hunting private land, the best thing to do is scout for recent sign – rooting in particular – and hang trail cameras when you find it. If there are hogs in the area, then you can put out a corn pile or a feeder to see if you can get them coming in regularly.

Best Public Lands for Hog Hunting

If you’re looking to hunt hogs on public land in Georgia, then you have plenty of options. There are probably more WMAs that have hogs than those that don’t. But there are certainly WMAs that will provide you with a much higher chance of hog hunting success than others. Here are a few of the better known WMAs for finding hogs:

• Cohutta WMA (northwest)
• Pine Log WMA (northwest)
• Swallow Creek WMA (northeast)
• Tuckahoe WMA (east-central)
• Di-Lane WMA (east-central)
• Oaky Woods WMA (central)
• Ocmulgee WMA (central)
• Chickasawhatchee WMA (southwest)
• Flint River WMA (southwest)
• Beaverdam WMA (south-central)
• Big Hammock WMA (south-central)
• Altamaha WMA (southeast)
• Townsend WMA (southeast)

Summary

Georgia hog hunting can be challenging, but very fun and rewarding as well. It’s a great way to spend time during the off-season, as well as a great way to sharpen your spot-and-stalk skills.

With a little research and scouting, you should be able to locate some areas that hold feral hogs that will provide you excellent odds of success.

Picture yourself getting the jump on a big prairie dog town. You crest a hill, lay your trusty .22 across a fencepost, and peer through your scope. It’s pretty far. You might need to aim a little bit high. If only you paid more attention to the MOA vs MRAD debate.

Experience might tell you that your bullet hits a certain distance low at 150 yards and a little more at 200 yards, but “a little low” doesn’t give you much to work with, especially when you don’t even know the distance to your target. Even if you knew exactly how many inches low it was at the distance you’re trying to shoot, could you really picture that in your scope with any degree of accuracy?

What you need is a way to make precise, calculated adjustments to compensate for proven ballistic performance. That’s where minutes of angle (MOA) and milliradian (MRAD) come in. These concepts are absolutely essential to shooting well — even if all you’re doing is zeroing your pistol’s red dot — and figuring them out might be easier than you think.

What are MOA and MRAD?

Both MOA (minutes of angle) and MRAD (milliradian) are methods of measuring angular units. Bullets aren’t laser beams, so we all understand that we have to aim high to engage targets that are far away from us. Rather than calculating bullet drop to inches, creating a mental estimation of what that looks like, and aiming at a point in space above our desired point of impact, we use these angular units to get on target.

Both methods are more than capable of facilitating precision shooting. They’re not interchangeable, though, so your rifle scope, reticle spotting scope, ballistic tables, and any software you use will need to be on the same page. Eventually, you’ll learn to think in MOA or MRAD and be able to make better adjustments on the fly.

MOA: What You Need To Know

The majority of all sighting systems (scopes, red dots, holographic sights, and iron sights) sold in the U.S. use MOA because this unit works well with imperial units — specifically inches and yards.

What is MOA?

There are 360 degrees in a circle and 60 minutes in a degree. One minute (MOA) equals 1/21,600 of a circle.

At 100 yards, one MOA equals 1.047 inches. Since it’s angular, the same one-MOA angle expands to 2.094 inches at 200 yards, 3.141 inches at 300 yards, and so on. Moving your point of aim one MOA shifts your point of impact 1.047 inches at 100 yards.

That’s not very precise, so most optics use quarter-MOA adjustments. If your scope turret is labeled “one click = 1/4 MOA,” you’ll be able to refine your point of impact in 0.26-inch increments at 100 yards.

By using 1/4-MOA adjustments, we divide a circle into 86,400 slices, and each click of your turret moves your point of aim 0.004 degrees.

What About “Shooter’s MOA?”

Many people use what’s called “Shooter’s MOA,” which rounds MOA to the nearest quarter-inch. That’s why you’ll hear people say that one MOA equals one inch at 100 yards. They’ll equate one click of a 1/4-MOA turret to 0.25 inches at 100 yards rather than 0.26 inches at 100 yards.

It’s not exactly correct, but it’s close enough in some cases. At longer distances, this shortcut will catch up with you.

At 1,000 yards, .308 Win might drop 393 inches. Using MOA, your come-up in that situation (393 inches / 10.47 inches per MOA at that range) would be 37.5 MOA, and your point of aim would be 393 inches above your point of impact, matching bullet drop exactly.

If you were using Shooter’s MOA, your come-up would be 39.3 MOA (393 inches / 10 inches per shooter’s MOA at that range). Because scope turrets use actual MOA rather than Shooter’s MOA, your input of 39.25 MOA (the closest setting to 39.3) would result in a point of aim 411 inches above the center of your target and cause your bullet to impact 18.5 inches high. Unless you have a massive target, that’s a miss.

MRAD: What You Need To Know

Outside of the U.S., shooters generally prefer to use MRAD over MOA. Interestingly enough, American military snipers also use the metric-based MRAD system; most precision shooters do, too.

What is MRAD?

Instead of using degrees, we can divide a circle into 6.283 radians. Inside each radian are 1,000 milliradians (mils, for short) for a total of 6,283 mils in a circle. Random, right? Damn Europeans.

There’s a method to this madness because one mil equates to 10 centimeters at 100 meters.

In the same way that we don’t make adjustments in whole MOA, we don’t make them in whole mils, either. Scopes turn in 1/10-mil increments, so one click on your turret translates to one centimeter at 100 meters.

A scope’s 1/10-mil adjustments divide a circle into 62,832 pieces, and each click moves your point of aim to 0.006 degrees.

When you range targets in yards, using MRAD can feel clumsy.

But when you range targets in meters, using the 1/10 MRAD adjustments on your scope turrets is straightforward.

MRAD vs MOA: Which Should You Use?

Knowing that both systems are effective doesn’t make your scope-purchasing decision any easier. There has to be a reason some shooters prefer one over the other.

Why You Should Use MRAD

Using the 100-yard example, a typical MOA scope will let you make adjustments in finer increments. Remember that, at 100 yards, 1/4 MOA equals 0.26 inches while 110 mil equals 0.36 inches. But if MOA is more precise, why do snipers and competitive shooters almost universally prefer MRAD?

In the real world, there is a practical limit to the degree of precision we’re capable of extracting from a shooting system (our rifle, scope, and ammunition).

“On the milliradian optic, I’m doing 1/10 of a mil click in whatever direction, that’s going to equal roughly 2.5 inches at 700 yards,” Eliasson said in the Vortex Edge podcast. “If I do that same click on a 1/4-minute adjustment minute of angle optic that’s about two inches — a little under, I think it is. So it’s like two, 2.5 at 700; can you shoot that good?”

Both MOA and MRAD deliver the precision you need, and MRAD scopes can save time by making adjustments in slightly larger leaps, as Eliasson discovered during his time as a Marine Corps scout sniper.

“We got the 1/4-minute adjustment optic on our gun, and I felt like I was just adjusting for days,” he said. “It was just click, click, click, click, click, click to get where I needed to go. I thought that was kind of hindering us to a degree.”

The base-10 nature of MRAD can also make life simpler when you’re shooting under pressure.

“If somebody says, ‘Come up 0.7’ that’s seven clicks,” James Hamilton, host of the Vortex Edge podcast, said. “And if they’re like, ‘1.7’ that’s 17 clicks. But if somebody says, ‘Come up 2-3/4 MOA’ I’m like, ‘Okay one click is 1/4 MOA, so that’s four clicks per one MOA, so that means four times two is eight, plus 3/4 is three, eight plus three is — you know?”

Simply put, MRAD scopes get us inside the margin of human error with less time spent converting quarters to clicks, counting tiny hash marks, and fiddling around with our scope turrets. Since most competitive shooters use MRAD, that route will also make it easier to learn from others if you have ambitions of getting started in long range shooting.

Why You Should Use MOA

Most shooters who prefer MOA optics probably appreciate the unit’s relative correlation to inches and yards rather than adapting to the metric system.

“As Americans, if you were born and raised here, we tend to think in inches, and it’s really hard to associate what 10 centimeters looks like,” Eliasson said. “Our brain kind of wants to think about it in 10 inches, not 10 centimeters.”

The combined market for MOA hunting scopes and low-power variable optics with a BDC (a bullet drop compensator reticle like the one in the Trijicon ACOG) is probably larger than it is for MRAD scopes. Red dot optics and holographic sights almost universally use MOA. That alone might be enough to sway you, especially if you don’t need a fancy mil-dot reticle.

“Some of our optics that I’m thinking of are very, very well-suited for hunting and they’re just not even available in MRAD,” Hamilton said. “In my head, I’m thinking getting the right optic is more important than getting some super-duper special unit of measurement.”

The reality is that the advantages of MRAD scopes don’t matter at the distances most people shoot. Plenty of hunters and recreational shooters do just fine by zeroing at 50 yards, having a usable point of aim out to about 200 yards, and falling back on Shooter’s MOA in a pinch.

Use Your MOA Or MRAD Reticle to Estimate Range

You can use both MOA and MRAD to perform useful calculations in the field if you have a technical reticle. Knowing how to use these formulas will help you get the most out of your scope.

Make the resulting adjustments by dialing your turrets or using a holdover based on the subtensions in your reticle.

Range Estimation

Yards to target = (size of target in inches x 95.5) / size of target in MOA

Yards to target = (size of target in inches x 27.77) / size of target in mils

To use these formulas, you’ll need to know the size of your target in inches. Between that known size, the size of the target in MOA or MRAD as measured with your reticle, and the appropriate constant (95.5 for MOA or 27.77 for MRAD), you can determine the distance to your target in yards.

Size Estimation

Size of target in inches = (yards to target x size of target in MOA) / 95.5

Size of target in inches = (yards to target x size of target in MRAD) / 27.77

The size estimation formula is based on the range estimation formula; it just solves for a different variable. This is particularly useful for hunters who want to gauge a game animal’s size from a distance.

Wind Estimation with an MOA Reticle

MOA adjustment = [wind speed x (range / 100)] / constant

Constants vary by cartridge. For .308 Win, use a constant of 12. For 6.5 Creedmoor, use a constant of 17.

MOA adjustment = (range / 100) -1

The above formula is for a full-value 10 mph wind. Changes based on a wind direction are made after calculating your hold in MOA.

Wind Estimation with an MRAD Reticle

The above pattern is fairly universal, but you may need to tweak an adjustment here or there. Your specific rifle and ammunition will have a certain wind speed at which you can use this formula.

If you shoot a “6 mph gun” in a full-value 6 mph right-to-left wind, you would hold 0.5 mils right at 500 yards. If the same wind were a half value, your hold would be 0.25 mils. If the wind were full value but 3 mph, your hold would be 0.25 mils.

READ NEXT – Precision Rifle Series Shooting: 6 Keys for Beginner Success

I’m sitting in the low water of the Rondout Creek next to my house, with the water flowing past slowly. The sun glints off the water and dances in the most complex and beautiful way. Trees are swaying and cedar waxwings are darting in the blue sky above. In my hands and all around me, floating in the slow moving water are lengths of basswood fiber. Fiber from the bark of a tree I had carefully chosen earlier in the season from the adjacent bank to harvest and process into fiber to be used in making baskets. In this moment I feel completely serene and smile, letting the beauty of this perfect summer day fill me.

This memory of being in the river and rinsing basswood inner bark fiber represents why I do what I do in the deepest way. It was a glimpse of what it feels like to really be a human being on this earth; working with the plants and being in touch with the landscape. The entire process of working with basswood, from choosing a tree to using the fiber in baskets is very dear to me and I want to share that experience with you in this post. As you read below please remember that the plants are our greatest teachers. Just when I think I know something about basswood I get shown a new way by the plant itself! I encourage you to try the process yourself and build your own personal knowledge of working with this wonderful tree. At my 2017 Wild Basketry program I loved seeing participants getting to know the tree throughout the entire season from harvest to completing twined bags at the end of the 8 months we spent together.

Basswood, American Linden, Tilia Americana,

Basswood is the common name of one of our most beautiful native trees in North America, specifically in the region of central New York state where I live. Tilia Americana is the common name, but it is also often called by the name Linden. Besides being a wonderful shade tree the leaves are incredibly rich nutrients and serve to nourish the forest floor each year. And of course its name hints at one of its most valuable purposes: basswood = bast = fiber. The inner bark of the wonderful tree can be removed from the trunk, retted, and made into fiber for a variety of projects. It was valued by many native peoples from the east coast to the Great Lakes region. I wonder… did someone sit in the very river I harvest my basswood from and do the same process three hundred years ago? Tilia as a genus was not only important to North America. A quick glance at wikipedia tells us that there are around 30 species of Tilia throughout the northern hemisphere. In Europe it is commonly known as Linden, or Lime tree. Traditionally it was used to make cordage and other fiber products all across its range. What a truly wonderful tree.

What is Basswood Used For?

Basswood fiber makes for excellent cordage. The long lengths you can obtain are its main advantage. It may not be as strong as dogbane or as soft as milkweed, but I love the color it’s flexibility. It also takes dye really well.

It is also great for using in twined projects, using as a sewing strand, wrapping, and basically any thing else you can dream of! Recently I’ve also been using the inner bark before it is retted as long flexible stakes for weaving pack baskets. I hope that in a year I can update this post with even more used for this great material! If you are fortunate enough to be surrounded by basswood tree you are indeed lucky and blessed.

How to Harvest and Process Basswood

When to Harvest

I have found that the best season for me to harvest and peel the bark from basswood in my part of the world, which is the Hudson Valley, in New York State, is in June. I have peeled logs as early as May and as late as October and it still works, but is more difficult to separate the inner bark from the wood log.

How to Choose a Tree

The perfect tree is the one that says yes when you ask if it is open to becoming something new. There are many ways to ask a tree if it is ready, but I’ll share my process. First I close my eyes, touch the tree and just ask, either out loud or in thought. Then I step back and really look at the tree and it’s surroundings. Is it part of a cluster of many trees where removing it won’t damage the ecosystem or is it the only basswood in the forest? Is it easy to get to or far out of reach? Will cutting it down damage other trees? Is the tree healthy or struggling to survive? Is there a bird’s nest and its branches? Does it just feel right or wrong? Does it for fulfill the general requirements for a good basket tree listed below? Pay attention to the signs and trust your instincts. Don’t be afraid to hear no and continue looking.

The Specifics of Good Basket Tree

Besides the tree’s readiness to be cut down, you are also looking for physical characteristics which make a tree better for getting long, straight, easy to use fiber. A long, straight trunk with very few branches is ideal. I usually harvest trees between 5 and 10 inches in diameter which are growing tightly in clusters with more basswoods. This being said you can also remove the bark from fallen branches, crooked trees, and other less ideal trees. I recently removed the bark from a large 16″ diameter tree. It was backbreaking work, but so far the bark seems like it’ll be great. Some I used as thicker stakes and some I put in a bin to ret.

Removing the Outer Bark

After you have safely cut down the tree, you can remove any unnecessary branches and either prepare to remove the bark in the field, or move the trunk to your working area. If I have a very long trunk I’ll usually cut it into sections about 10 feet long to carry out. In my process I use a draw knife to first remove the rough great outer bark from the log. You want to get all the scaly gray bark off without cutting too deeply into be inner bark. It’s a fine line and only practice will help you get over the learning curve of this process.

Peeling the Inner Bark Off the Log

Once the log is completely smooth I will cut lines about 4 inches apart down the entire log through the inner bark layer all the way into the wood. Then peel each section up from the log. This is the material that will become cordage after it is retted. The wood you are left with is excellent for carving; soft and easy to work with. Save it or give it to a friend who will make good use of it.

Retting Basswood Fiber

As soon as you have peeled the sections of basswood inner bark from the trunk it is time to put them through a process called retting. Retting sounds alot like ‘rotting’ and in a way that is what is happening. In water retting you submerge the lengths of basswood inner bark in water for a period of 6-8 weeks. During this time microorganisms in the water rot away the cellular tissue and pectins leaving only the long gorgeous strands of bast fiber. It’s a stinky, fun process that is a good way to scare your neighbors away as buckets of rotting bark sit out all summer next to your house! It may end up taking longer than 8 weeks. Just test it and put it back if it’s not done. Sometimes I’ll even peel half of the layers off and then put it back to get the rest of it retted enough to use.

It is best in my opinion to ret your basswood fibers in water that is full of life. River or pond water is great, but if you must use water from the hose the process will still work, but it seems to take longer. I usually take a large tote bin down to the river. First I put the basswood lengths in the tote using the space in the most economical way, by putting coils inside coils until the whole bin is full.

Be gentle when coiling your basswood. If you bend it too sharply it will crack and those cracks will come back to haunt you later when you find your fibers are broken into two foot sections along the length of your beautiful 8 foot piece of bark. Learn from my mistakes and be patient and gentle! Then I use a bucket to fill the bin to the top, making sure it is far enough from the bank that rising water won’t wash it away.

Make sure every single inch is completely submerged with a couple inches of water on top. Do not skimp on this! Even a tiny piece exposed can be a real pain later. Don’t be lazy, and take your time weighing down the pieces with rocks. I was wisely told once that impatience is wanting something for nothing. If it doesn’t all fit then get another bin or bucket. Again I have taken shortcuts and ended up with dry spots in the middle of otherwise perfectly good lengths.

Let the bin of basswood fiber sit for 6-8 weeks, or longer. Check on it to make sure water levels are good. Sometimes if the water gets too nasty I’ll pour it out and refill it. I’m not sure if leaving the same nasty water or changing it periodically is better for the basswood.

When is it ready? You can tell it’s ready when the bark is very flexible when you squeeze it. Give it a test once in awhile and usually after 6-8 weeks it is ready. You can always take one piece out and try rinsing it and if it doesn’t come apart then put it back in for longer.

Rinsing the Basswood Fiber

My favorite way of rinsing basswood fiber is to take the lengths of bark into the river itself. There, rub the bark and bend it and if it is ready soon you will see layers of the bark start to separate. Continue to work it, peeling and rubbing and squeezing it until beautiful, translucent layers of fiber separate along the whole length of the bark. They may feel slimy. Just continue to rinse them until they feel clean and then take each piece or group of pieces and let them dry in the sun. Either before or after they dry I like to bundle each group of pieces neatly so they don’t get tangled in storage. Make sure they are completely dry before storing them. You put so much work into processing and harvesting, not to mention all the work the tree did growing. Don’t let it go to waste and be grateful for every inch of beautiful fiber that you iwll soon be making into beautiful products.

Making bags, cordage, and more

There are two potential reasons why you may be hunting public land deer this season. First, you may find public land deer hunting challenging and enjoy the freedom the big woods offer. More likely, however, the real reason you are hunting on public land is you have no other choice such as a private lease or your own land to hunt. Hunting deer on public land is the great equalizer. Each hunter has to search for a place to hunt, develop a sound strategy and compete with other hunters all seeking a whitetail buck.

The one advantage hunters have in Pennsylvania when looking for the best public land hunting is that there is plenty of it. Public lands open to hunting can be found in almost every county of the state accounting for more than 4 million acres. All that land, however, comes with a lot of competition and challenges when it comes to deer hunting season.

Finding Public Land Deer Hunting Opportunities in Pennsylvania

The best public land deer hunting opportunities are not as hard to come by as many think. The key is to put the time in and focus on quality areas with minimal pressure and good habitat. Finding these suitable areas is not difficult with the amount of area open to the public.

One place to start your search is with the Pennsylvania Game Commission (PGC) Deer Hunter Focus Areas. This site provides information and an interactive map of recent and current habitat management projects on State Game Lands across the state. These projects are known to attract deer and typically have hunter access areas associated with them. Although these Deer Hunter Focus Areas are a great place to start, remember a lot of other hunters will also be hunting these areas. Ideally, you want to use these locations as a starting point and expand to adjacent areas to hunt whitetails where hunting pressure will be less.

Another starting point for finding public land deer hunting opportunities is the PGC State Game Lands website. This website provides information about the 1.5 million acres of public lands opening for hunting. Here, again, you can use an interactive map to search for areas to scout and download individual maps to take with you on the ground. Both are helpful when planning your public land hunting strategy.

Finally, Pennsylvania State Forests and the Allegheny National Forest also both have vast amounts of land open to public hunting. How to find a good hunting spot on public land starts with doing your research and exploring these opportunities well before deer season starts.

Best Game Lands to Hunt in Southeastern Pennsylvania

State Game Land 145 sits off of State Route 117 in southern Lebanon County. It is approximately 2,800 acres of mixed hardwoods forest. This SGL has many one- and two-acre food plots established to supplement native forage. Hunt thick bedding areas near these food plots to ambush a buck coming or going to feed.

SGL 145 – Lebanon County

Nearby, SGL 156 has over 4,500 acres open to hunting in Lebanon and Lancaster counties. Both mixed hardwood and mixed oak forests exist in SGL 156. Timber management is very active across this area and provides plenty of quality browse and cover for whitetails to enjoy. Hunting public land deer here can be tough as it tends to get pressured, especially during firearms season. Hunt more remote areas and stay away from main trails if possible to increase your chances.

SGL 156 – Lebanon/Lancaster Counties

Another prime public land hunting location in Lebanon and Lancaster counties is SGL 46. Accessible from State Route 897, SGL 46 covers approximately 6,000 acres surrounding the Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area. Focus your public land hunting strategy on hardwood ridges and adjacent to agricultural fields on this public tract.

SGL 46 – Lebanon/Lancaster Counties

Overlooked Public Land Hunting Places

Among all the public land open to hunting across the Commonwealth, hunters frequently overlook state parks as a place to hunt. There is usually a state park within a 20- to 30-minute drive of almost every resident in the state and many have public land deer hunting opportunities.

Two particular state parks in southern Pennsylvania where public land monster bucks roam are Gifford Pinchot State Park and Caledonia State Park. Both of these parks allowing deer hunting, but they have special regulations hunters need to comply with. Gifford Pinchot is located in northern York County just outside of Harrisburg. The hunting grounds surround the lake and are in turn surrounded by a mix of residential and agricultural lands. No centerfire rifles can be used for hunting in the park but you can use bows, shotguns, and muzzleloaders. Caledonia State Park has a smaller amount of huntable land but it is surrounded by the 85,000 acre Michaux State Forest, which offers its own public hunting opportunities. Similarly, this park has special hunting regulations so be sure to check them out before planning to hunt in either of these state parks.

5 Public Land Hunting Tips for Deer Season

Hunting big bucks on public land does not come easy. Make sure these five public land hunting tips are part of your deer season strategy.

1. Scout All Year Long – You have to put in the time on public lands. This means not only hunting but also scouting. Scouting with trail cameras preseason but also scouting throughout the year to find new spots and plan tree stand set ups is a must. The more time you spend scouting the more likely you will beat out all the other unprepared hunters for that buck spot.
2. Get a GPS and Learn to Use It – Having a GPS unit is critical to public land deer hunting. It allows you to store hunting spots as waypoints and tracks as trails to your tree stands. Without one, it makes it hard to explore new hunting areas and keep your existing spots as secret as possible.
3. Use Hunting Pressure to Your Advantage – Almost everywhere in Pennsylvania on public land, there will be hunting pressure. One tip is to use that to your advantage. Position tree stands around highly pressured areas and hunt the pressured deer. This works well in gun season when a high percentage of hunters are in the woods for the first time walking around and spooking up bucks.
4. Don’t Hunt History – Hunters on public land often hunt the same areas year after year. These places are either familiar or they have had recent past deer hunting success here. With public land, however, things change constantly. Either habitat is changing from management activities or consistent pressure from recreation change deer patterns. Assume nothing each year and instead scout each year to determine if other areas are a better choice to hunt.
5. Be Able to Adapt Mid-Season – Along with not hunting history, you also need to be able to adapt during the season. Public means anyone can hunt right next to you. You have to have secondary options and be able to adapt your public land hunting strategy on a daily basis based on changing deer patterns or unexpected hunting pressure.

Must-Have Deer Hunting Gear for Public Land

Arguably the two most important pieces of deer hunting gear for public land hunting are a lightweight tree stand and a quality hunting pack. The theme of these two pieces of gear is mobility and being able to adapt.

• Lightweight Tree Stand Setup – Hanging a tree stand on public land has to not damage the tree. This means you have to either choose a lightweight climbing tree stand like the Summit Open Shot Climber or go with a hang on stand and use lightweight climbing sticks.

• Quality Hunting Pack – You will need a hunting pack for public land deer hunting that holds plenty of gear. Large main pockets, accessory pockets, and a comfortable fit as the Badlands Dash Backpack which is ideal for any day hunting public land during firearms season.

Given the ever-increasing proximity of neighbors due to suburban sprawl and the boost in sales of .22 caliber sound suppressors for range and field use, it’s little wonder why subsonic .22 Long Rifle (LR) loads have grown by leaps and bounds in recent years. In fact, MidwayUSA currently lists more subsonic .22 LR options than supersonic on its website. There are several reasons for this shift: Beyond maintaining positive relationships with nearby residents, subsonic .22 LR loads also don’t frighten livestock or game, and their use helps preserve one’s hearing—especially when coupled with a quality suppressor, and they’re often more accurate than their supersonic brethren, too.

To qualify as “subsonic,” the projectile mustn’t break the speed of sound, and that rate varies greatly. Depending on the temperature, humidity, air pressure and elevation, it’s reported to range between 1087 fps and 1129 fps. For extra “cushion,” I opt for loads with velocities at (or less than) 1050 fps. At such speeds, the ammunition doesn’t produce the associated “crack” of supersonic ammo across a host of climates and locations.

Within the realm of subsonic .22 LR ammunition, there exists a multitude of configurations, and not all are well-suited for hunting small game. Outside of a restrained marksman who can consistently make head shots on squirrel-size game, lead, round-nose subsonic loads should be relegated to range work. Even lethal hits will often result in a lost animal. This is particularly true of squirrels, which will quickly scurry into a nest or hole in a tree.

To counteract the loss of energy and terminal performance due to lower velocities, you need a bullet that maximizes the wound channel(s). The most lethal bullet designs for use at subsonic velocities will be a traditional hollow-point or specialized, segmenting hollow-point. I’ve experienced good results with both designs.

Beyond terminal performance, the loads must function flawlessly in the rifle, too. Due to their low velocities—and, at times, low bullet weights—cycling can be particularly problematic for semi-automatic rifles. Such is not the case with bolt-, pump- and lever-action rifles.

For this article, I selected six current, subsonic .22 LR loads suitable for small-game hunting and subjected them to a barrage of tests to evaluate relative sound, accuracy (five-consecutive, five-shot groups at 50 yards), functioning, velocity and terminal performance (in modeling clay at 25 yards). The rifle employed was a Ruger 10/22 fitted with a 16 ½-inch Tactical Solutions barrel with a YHM Mite suppressor, topped with a Weaver Grand Slam 4-16x44mm riflescope. In addition to the particulars of each load and the test results, I also identified the advantages and drawbacks, if any. Please keep in mind that these results are from a single rifle, and each rifle has different preferences. Nevertheless, hopefully this will ease your decision-making process.

1. Winchester Subsonic 42 Max• Particulars: Manufactured in Australia, Winchester’s Subsonic 42 Max features—unsurprisingly—a cavernous, truncated-nose, hollow-point, 42-grain lead bullet propelled to 1065 fps. That equates to 106 ft.-lbs. of energy. MSRP: $5.39 per 50-rnd box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: Across a Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph at five feet, Subsonic 42 Max loads averaged 1001 fps, and were fairly loud. I ranked them as the third loudest. Concerning accuracy, the Aussie loading was disappointing; for five consecutive, five-shot groups at 50 yards, the average was 1.63 inches—the largest of the batch. That being said, functioning in the semi-automatic test rifle was flawless, and the bullets delivered devastating terminal ballistics in the clay. Beyond a large cavity, the bullet traversed the full length of the clay block.

• Advantages: Noteworthy terminal ballistics, flawless cycling, reasonable price

• Drawbacks: Disappointing accuracy, fairly loud

2. Winchester Super-X 22 Long Rifle Subsonic

• Particulars: Available on a somewhat inconsistent basis, Winchester‘s Super-X 22 Long Rifle Subsonic load features a 40-grain lead, truncated-cone, hollow-point bullet propelled to 1065 fps. Also manufactured in Australia, the bullet has five less ft.-lbs. of energy than the abovementioned load. MSRP: $4.99 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: Posting an average velocity of 1042 fps, Winchester’s Super-X 22 Long Rifle Subsonic load was the fastest of the bunch, and it was the loudest, too. Moreover, it produced the second largest groups; for 25 shots, the mean was an unremarkable 1.53 inches. There was one failure to eject. As for terminal performance, the 40-grain bullet created a massive wound channel and traveled nearly the length of the block of clay.

• Advantages: Impressive terminal ballistics, fast, relatively inexpensive

• Drawbacks: Unsatisfactory accuracy, loud

3. ELEY Subsonic Hollow

• Particulars: A true premium-grade .22 LR load, Subsonic Hollow is manufactured by ELEY in England and features a 38-grain lead, hollow-point bullet propelled to 1040 fps. Energy is 96 ft.-lbs. MSRP: $9.29 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: With a mean velocity of 993 fps, ELEY’s Subsonic Hollow was third fastest, but second loudest. In addition to delivering flawless functioning, the load also proved to be the most accurate; in fact, five, five-shot groups averaged 0.89-inch. In a match-grade rifle, it’d be scary accurate. Despite a great showing in the accuracy department, its terminal performance was somewhat lacking. Although ample to deliver a quick, fatal blow to small varmints and game, larger species might travel a bit further before succumbing.

• Advantages: clean, accurate

• Drawbacks: expensive, smallish wound channel, somewhat loud

4. CCI Quiet-22 Segmented HP

• Particulars: Propelled to a modest 710 fps, what the CCI Quiet-22 copper-plated 40-grain segmented hollow-point bullet lacks in energy—45 ft.-lbs.—it makes up for in terminal performance. During penetration, the projectile breaks into three pieces to increase damage to vital organs and structures. MSRP: $5.93 per 50 rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: From the 16 ½-inch barrel of the 10/22, Quiet-22 Subsonic HP ammunition averaged a modest 664 fps—little wonder why it didn’t cycle in the semi-automatic rifle. Nonetheless, it was incredibly quiet—the least report of any tested—and acceptably accurate. For 25 shots, it had a mean of 1.30 inches. Concerning terminal performance, the Segmented HP created a large initial cavity before splitting into three pieces, each of which penetrated deeply. It’s a devastating design, and the sound it produces when striking is equally eye opening.

• Advantages: Remarkable terminal performance, reduced risk of ricochet and over penetration, copper-plated, good accuracy

• Drawbacks: Won’t cycle most semi-automatic actions

5. CCI Suppressor 22 LR

• Particulars: Designed for flawless functioning in semi-automatic rifles, CCI’s Suppressor 22 LR propels a non-plated, 45-grain lead hollow-point bullet to 970 fps. Energy is 94 ft.-lbs. MSRP: $5.12 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: Despite propelling the heaviest bullet in the test, CCI’s Suppressor 22 LR load still averaged 931 fps, and its perceived report was the second quietest. As for accuracy, it was the only real competitor for the ELEY Hollow load; its mean was a respectable 1.17 inches. The 10/22 cycled without issue when loaded with Suppressor 22 LR. Moreover, the heavy bullet created a sizable cavity in the clay before exiting. This load has a lot going for it.

• Advantages: Excellent terminal performance, modest cost, quiet, reliable cycling, good accuracy

• Drawbacks: None

6. RWS Subsonic HP

• Particulars: Manufactured in Germany, RWS’ Subsonic HP load has a traditional-style 40-grain lead hollow-point bullet travelling 1033 fps, for 95 ft.-lbs. of energy. MSRP: $6.99 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: With an average velocity of 977 fps, RWS Subsonic HP was middle-ground, and so too was its report. Accuracy wise, the round had a mean of 1.25 inches—not too bad. Cycling, however, was unreliable. While lacking in functioning, it was extraordinary with regards to terminal performance; in fact, this round produced the largest wound channel of all tested. Quarry won’t travel far (if not stopped outright).

• Advantages: Impressive terminal performance (largest cavity), mild report

• Drawbacks: costly, wax coating easily gets on hands, unreliable functioning in semi-automatic rifles

If you’re not using subsonic loads, you’re really missing out. Go ahead and give some of these loads a try when hunting small game, and if you’re like me, you’re likely to stick with them.

About Frogs

Bullfrogs and green frogs look similar but are easy to tell apart from other frogs in Missouri, due to their relatively large size at maturity. They prefer aquatic edge habitats that offer still, shallow water with aquatic and/or terrestrial vegetation. This provides both cover and food, such as insects and nearly any other small animal that will fit in their mouths. Ponds, lakes and river banks, wetlands, and other vegetated waterways are all great places to find frogs.

Frog Hunting

Methods

Frogs can be hunted in Missouri using many different methods.

With a fishing permit, frogs may be taken by gig, trotline, throw line, limb line, bank line, jug line, snagging, snaring, grabbing, or pole and line.

With a hunting permit, frogs may be taken by crossbow, pellet gun, or .22 or smaller caliber rim-fire rifle or pistol.

With either permit frogs may be taken by hand, hand net, bow, or atlatl.

When to Hunt Frogs

• Frogs may be pursued during the day or at night with an artificial light.
• During a full moon frogs are typically more skittish because they feel more exposed, and are thus more difficult to approach.
• During a new moon it is usually easier to get closer to them.

Because frogs are amphibious and must keep their skin moist, they spend more time in the water and weeds during the day and are generally less visible around the banks than at night. Whether they’re hiding or not, their location is often given away by their assertive croaks.

Getting Started

Frog-Hunting Gear

• Rubber knee boots or hip waders
• Flashlight
• Gig or net
• Something to keep your harvested frogs in

Choosing a Location

Public and private landowners typically do not manage for frogs. Instead, frog populations are often the result of management for another species such as waterfowl or fish. Frogs are also common in aquatic edge habitats not subject to management or maintenance of any kind.

Waters with few to no predators will yield the best frog populations, which is why newer ponds or very old ponds are generally plentiful with frogs. Bullfrogs and green frogs can be found along nearly all waterways on MDC conservation areas but especially on wetland areas and along rivers and lakes.

Bullfrogs are ambush-style predators that will eat any live prey they can fit in their mouths, including insects, fish, mice, birds, and snakes! Focus on shallow water areas and mud flats along the margins of ponds, lakes and wetlands where cattails, willows, grasses, and other aquatic vegetation is present.

Tips and Tricks

• If you are hunting with a partner, have them blind the frog using a light so that you can stalk the frog from behind. Frogs can feel the vibrations of you approaching on foot, sometimes causing them to flee before you locate them.
• Consider using a canoe to stealthily locate and get close enough to grab, net, or gig.

Try Hunting During the Day

Most frogs are caught with the use of a gig or by bare hands at night. For a little different experience, try fishing during the day. Simply use a long fishing pole, like a cane poll or crappie rod, with a short piece of fishing line and a small treble hook tied to the end. Attach a small piece of red cloth to the hook and dangle in front of the frog. Often temptation will get the best of the frog and it will strike at the cloth. The only thing left to do is set the hook.