I live in southeastern Pennsylvania, where open space and farmlands vanish at an alarming rate as properties are sold off for housing developments and commercial real estate projects. As a result, I need more than my 10 fingers to count the number of hunting properties I’ve lost access to over the years as the region’s population has grown.

To combat this, 12 years ago, my wife Allison and I purchased a house with a few acres of woods adjacent to it. One of the reasons for the 8-acre parcel was for privacy; the other was so I’d always have a few acres to bowhunt (She does love me!).

The challenge with hunting this property is that it’s bordered by a road on one side and usually an open field on the other. Hence, it took me a few years of hunting, running trail cameras, keeping a diary and doing plenty of scouting to determine when the best days of the year were to kill a deer on the property. In the end, I found the most concentrated buck activity on my land usually took place the days of Nov. 4-6, and my stand needed to be a ground blind set up in the lower corner of the property next to my woodlot — but not in it — for the best chance at success. While the end of October and first two weeks of November, in theory, should offer great deer hunting, the reality of my situation is that those three days typically provide the best chance for taking a buck.

Last fall, on a warm November day when the temperature climbed past 70, an 8-pointer made the fatal mistake of passing by me and my blind just after 9 a.m. The date was Saturday, Nov. 5, right in line with the three-day window noted above, just like clockwork.

The lesson here is that while any day is a good day to be out bowhunting, there are absolutely some time frames that are better than others, depending on when and where you hunt. For many bowhunters, it can be the days heading into the peak of the rut, while for others it may be the first few days of the season when deer are still unpressured. Others still can often pattern a given buck in late season, ambushing the animal on its way to a preferred feeding area.

No matter your personal hunting situation, one thing is for certain — the vast majority of hunters have a limited number of days they can take off to go afield. So, in an effort to help you plan for the upcoming season, we’re once again making our predictions for “can’t-miss” days to be in the woods this year.

We began our research by combing through the DataSport Fish & Game Forecaster, the book and app that predict wildlife movement for every hour of the year. The forecast is based on a complex computer algorithm that compiles data such as sunrise/sunset times, moon phases, the moon’s position relative to the Earth and more, while also factoring in other research and historical data. The end result is a comprehensive calendar of daily charts that suggest the best times for fish and wildlife activity every day of the year.

After reviewing the 2024 DataSport Forecaster, we asked our resident whitetail-hunting experts — Christian Berg, Clint Casper, Eddie Claypool and Bill Winke — to dive into the data while also incorporating their personal bowhunting experiences from over the years. In the end, we narrowed down our selections to the six days we feel you absolutely must be in the blind or stand this season. Here are our picks, along with some tips to help you maximize success during every part of the season.

Early Season — Sunday, September 3

If you live or travel to a state where deer season opens early, you know how good the hunting can be, at least on evening sits as deer move to feed. Plus, early September offers the opportunity to take a buck in velvet, although more and more deer are shedding theirs with each passing day.

If you don’t mind hunting in warm weather, this time of the year can be the perfect time to tag a buck you’ve been eying on the trail cameras in recent weeks, especially if he’s a frequent visitor to the food plot, woodlot or farm field you watch over. The DataSport Forecaster suggests there may be decent wildlife movement periods the first few days of the month, but our pick is Sept. 3 due to a strong peak coinciding with the evening sit.

Bill: The bucks will start to shed their velvet and break up their bachelor groups and disperse into their fall ranges right about this time, making it a little bit unpredictable. But you can still fall back on summer patterns and hope they hold up for a few more days. Hunt the spots where your visual and trail-cam sightings have told you the bucks are feeding in the evenings. Forget morning hunting at this time. If it is really dry, waterholes are a great bet.

Christian: As someone who has often traveled to hunt the early season in states with Sept. 1 openers, I can’t honestly tell you it is the most exciting kind of deer hunting. After all, most early-season bowhunts are “afternoon only,” because deer feed all night in ag fields, and it is virtually impossible to approach these areas before dawn without spooking animals…That said, the rewards of early-season hunting can be substantial in the form of big, velvet-covered antlers, and some of the biggest bucks nationwide are taken in early September each year. Pre-hunt scouting, both via trail cameras and glassing, is critical here, as bucks will still be on a summer feeding pattern and can be expected to at least semi-reliably appear in roughly the same places at roughly the same time each day. However, this pattern won’t last long, so it’s critical that you, or your outfitter, have all the ducks in a row and strike while the window of opportunity remains open.

On Sept. 3, the forecast shows peak afternoon deer activity coinciding closer to sunset than it does earlier in the week. Of course, if you’re on a weeklong, early-season hunt, chances are you’ll be out each evening. Just don’t get discouraged if the first day or two is slow, as the evening action is likely to pick up as the week goes on.

Pre-Rut — Friday, October 27

For many hunters, deer season doesn’t begin in earnest until around the 24th or 25th of October. As the daylight periods grow shorter and the rut approaches, it usually means more deer will be on the move. Get a cold front passing through and you can really see an increase in whitetail activity!

With the moonrise only about a half-hour from sunset, and good wildlife movement predicted for both morning and afternoon, Oct. 27 is our pick for this month. That said, the DataSport Forecaster predicts solid movement peaks every day Oct. 26-29, so any of these days should be good options. Watch the weather closely and be prepared to sneak out if the temperatures drop sharply.

Eddie: This time can’t be beat for killing a “local” mature buck, as they will not have begun traveling great distances from their core areas as of yet. Mature bucks will be engaged in huntable daytime movement now, patrolling nearby does, a few of which will have come into estrus in the previous week or so. Sneak into a travel corridor between thick cover and a doe feeding area, and be on full alert the first and last half-hour of daylight.

Clint: This time frame is statistically one of my absolute FAVORITES of the year, and for good reason. During this time, bucks are ramping up their daylight activity as the rut draws closer and closer. With the full moon present, expect increased buck activity in and around doe bedding and feeding areas as bucks are searching for that first hot doe. Good transitional zones from bed to feed, feeding areas and doe bedding areas will be great spots to home in on for the next few days. Rubs and scrapes will now be popping up everywhere. Be mobile and hunt the hottest sign available until you bounce into that buck of your dreams.

Peak Rut — Tuesday, Nov. 7 & Sunday, Nov. 12

Survey 100 hunters in the Northeast, Midwest and Mid-Atlantic Regions, and it’s a safe bet that more than 90 percent of them would say the first week of November is the best week to be in the whitetail woods all year long. Well, this year the DataSport Forecaster is predicting only average daytime wildlife movement during that week. However, we all know deer don’t pay attention to prognostications, and local conditions on the ground will have much more of an influence on what whitetails will be doing and when.

For 2024, we’re actually picking two “must-hunt” days. One is Nov. 7 since it falls within the traditional whitetail chasing phase that gets bowhunters so pumped up. Wildlife activity is predicted to be at its daylight peak between 9 and 9:30 a.m., making it a great day to stay in the stand all morning.

The other day is Nov. 12. Although many bucks may be locked in tight cover on hot does my mid-month, hit it right and you can have a spectacular morning or afternoon sit. During these first two weeks of the month, it’s also a good idea to plan for all-day-sits — unless the weather is atypically warm — because you never know when a big buck might finish with the doe he is with, or even cruise in from a neighboring area.

Bill: Nov. 7 has long been my favorite single day of the season because so many really good bucks are shot on — or very close to — this date. Funnels are always a good bet at this time. The bucks are actively looking for does early in the rut, so focus on hunting the downwind fringe of doe bedding areas in the mornings and close to places where does feed in the evenings. As the rut wears on, does will stop coming out in the open to feed, but for now you should still find them, and the bucks looking for them, near food in the evenings. This is the time to hunt all day.

Christian: When it comes to specific days to target during the rut, many hunters adopt a “set it and forget it” mindset and simply put in for vacation in the Nov. 5-7 time frame year after year. While there’s no doubt these are great days to be in the woods, a closer look at the forecast for this fall indicates the end of that week — specifically the Nov. 10-12 period — may in fact end up yielding this year’s hottest rut action.

Nov. 12, specifically, looks to be the best day of the week, with very good action predicted both morning and midday. Similar conditions are forecast for the 10th and 11th as well, which should be no surprise considering the approaching New Moon on Nov. 13 and moonrise and moonset times during this period that roughly coincide with peak morning and evening hunting hours. Add it all together with the whitetail’s normal November agenda and you have the perfect recipe for all-day sits.

Secondary Rut — Wednesday, December 13

By now, peak rut has come and gone — and firearms season may have too, depending on where you live — so bowhunting at this time of year can be tough. However, in some areas a number of unbred does and even early-born fawns may come into estrus, attracting the interest of at least a few bucks.

The trick at this time of the year is to hunt areas where deer feel safe and have access to good, preferably nearby, food sources. The DataSport Forecaster is predicting good afternoon movement Dec. 13, with favorable moonrise and moonset times that day. Factor in the New Moon the day before and everything sets up for what may be a great evening on stand.

Eddie: Find the primary food source for the majority of the local does (and) pick multiple spots that will situate you downwind of said food source, where thicker cover transitions into more open cover that is leading to and from the food source. There can be intense flurries of rut activity during this time, so don’t leave your grunt tube or rattling horns at home.

Clint: With the primary rut in our rearview mirror, we must now switch gears and start thinking about the second wave of rutting activity and food! Body weight has been cut down dramatically, so bucks will not only be seeking out the second wave of breeding action but also the hottest food sources available.

The does will now lead the show, and your scouting efforts should consist of locating good food sources that are attracting lots of does, and the bucks will follow. With a New Moon present, I’d primarily focus on evening hunts during this time frame, as the action should be great with bucks heading to check food sources for does and a good meal for themselves.

Late Season — Saturday, January 13

Most hunters have long since put away their bows by the time the New Year comes in, but dedicated archery enthusiasts willing to brave the elements in January know they can still capitalize on big bucks, which have shifted their focus to surviving the winter. Unless you have a honey hole with tons of deer and no pressure, it’s best to concentrate efforts on evening hunts as deer move from bedding to feeding areas. Of course, this also allows you to avoid the bone- chilling cold that accompanies early-morning sits at this time of the year.

The DataSport Forecaster predicts wildlife activity should be very good to excellent on the afternoons of Jan. 12-14, so any or all of these days could be worth a trip to the stand, especially if weather conditions are in your favor. That said, we’re going with the 13th since there’s a strong afternoon peak that coincides perfectly with prime hunting time.

Clint: Late is great! With most hunters tagged out, or having hung the bow up for the year, the woods now belong to those who still want to grind it out. With cold and snow in the forecasts often, a smart bowhunter will be searching for south-facing slopes and available food sources. Due to the rigors of the rut, bucks have lost a ton of weight, so food is now king. Scout on foot and use cameras to your advantage to locate a good feed source and then set your trap. Inside field edges, corners and good transition zones from south-facing slopes, which get the most sunlight, to a good food source will be the hot ticket!

DataSport Fish & Game Forecaster

Now in its 50th year, the DataSport Fish & Game Forecaster has been used by countless sportsmen over the decades to help decide when the best times may be to head out to the woods or water. The original fish and wildlife movement predictor, the Forecaster is developed based on two main guiding principles:

• By studying and documenting past wildlife patterns and statistics, you can identify trends that are likely to repeat themselves.
• There are many predictable factors (sunrise, sunset, lunar forces, etc.) that dictate these patterns of activity.

According to DataSport President John Lehman, a number of people actually contact him each year before the Forecaster is even published to ask for the best week to hunt the next fall so they can plan their hunting trips.

“Generally speaking, I feel that some hunters don’t ‘believe’ (in the forecast) at all, while others are completely sold,” Lehman said. “I try to get the non-believers to go out and just observe wildlife, whether they’re scouting or actually hunting, and come back to see if the time they’ve seen most activity mirrors the prediction. So many times it is extremely close and, if it isn’t, there’s usually a weather-related factor (involved).”

In making its daily predictions, the Forecaster looks at a variety of short- and long-range factors such as the amount of daylight, moon phases, moon positioning and more that can influence game movement. And whether you are a sceptic or devotee of the forecast, one thing is for certain — it’s an inexpensive tool that may help, and certainly won’t hinder, your preparation and planning for the season.

Get the Forecaster: $14.95 for book; $4.99 app (for iPhone/iPad/iTouch only) datasportinc.com; 404-252-5544

As a kid, I often wore two or three pairs of cotton socks topped with a super thick wool sock. It was a very inefficient system and did more harm than good. After many years, miles, and cold sits, I learned just how important good hunting socks are.

Hunting socks may not be a glamorous gear item, but they sure as heck deserve your attention. Between comfort, moisture mitigation, and keeping you warm/cool, socks are key ingredients to happy feet in the woods.

A flimsy and oft-neglected piece of fabric, good socks go unnoticed and are sometimes taken for granted. Bad socks, however, can ruin an outing with bunching, constant slipping, or — worse yet — hunt-ending blisters.

With all of that said, there are a ton of hunting sock options floating around out there. To help sort them all out we at GearJunkie decided to pull our top picks for 2024 together. With any luck, this list will help ease your search and put smiles on your feet come hunting season. Swing down to our Comparison Chart to learn more about picking the right hunting sock, and be sure to check out ourBuyer’s Guide.

The Best Hunting Socks of 2024

• Best Overall Hunting Sock: The Darn Tough Midweight Hunting Sock
• Best Budget Hunting Sock: Cabela’s Instinct 2.0 Wool Crew
• Best Hunting Sock for Women: The Darn Tough Boot Midweight Hunting Sock
• Best Late-Season Hunting Sock: First Lite Zero Cold Weather OTC
• Beast Early-Season Hunting Sock: Farm to Feet Ely
• Most Versatile Hunting Sock: Vortex Game Trail Tick Repellent Hunt Sock
• Most Technical Hunting Sock: KUIU Ultra Merino Over the Calf Sock

Best of the Rest

Hunting Socks Comparison Chart

Why You Should Trust Us

Hunting is one of my ultimate passions and I’ve been backpack hunting with a smile on my face for the past 10 years. And the health of my feet is a massive part of that. Trust is a must with socks for me.

Whether I’m making a long double-digit hike into a backcountry camp, or I’m hauling out a mind-bendingly heavy load, my feet are the gateway to the finish line. In other words, I have absolutely zero tolerance for incapable socks.

When testing out a pair of hunting socks, there are a few things on my radar. Fit, comfort, insulation, and breathability. I’m also just paying attention to how my feet feel overall while hiking, whether hot spots are present or if my feet sweating. Success in these areas is critical for pursuing my passions, as a bad pair of socks can cause a bad day in the field.

Of course, with my own experiences, I also took into account the experiences of trusted hunters around me. It provides a different perspective and gets me out of my own head for a bit. And the top-selling hunting socks on the market were also noted at a variety of price points.

All of our feet may be a little bit different, but the hunting socks listed above will cater to a wide range of hunters — whether they’re sitting in a treestand, or packing miles into the backcountry.

How to Choose a Hunting Sock

Up above we’ve laid out quite a few options for hunting socks. And aside from our top picks, there are a ton of options out there for you to choose from. So, how do you go about choosing the right hunting sock for you? We’ve got you covered. Once you’ve dialed in your sock game, consider taking a look at our guide to the top hunting boots.

Time of Year

The first thing that needs to be established is what time of year you’re planning on hunting the most. Choose a sock that fits the demands of most of your hunts. Obviously, the early season is going to be warmer than the late season. Don’t be the guy hunting with a late-season sock when it’s 80 degrees out. That’s a recipe for a bad time.

So, why not just use a midweight sock for everything to hit all of the marks? You can absolutely do that, just know that it’s a give and take. You’ll give up warmth in the late season or you’ll give up breathability in the early season. Of course, there are tricks to get by like airing your feet out often when it’s hot or starting a fire to warm the toes when it’s cold.

Style of Hunting

Another factor in choosing the right hunting sock for you is your style of hunting. Some hunters are more active and they prefer to stay mobile. And when you’re more mobile, you’re naturally going to sweat more. At the same time, the more methodical hunter that plays the waiting game more often than not has different needs. They aren’t going to sweat as much and will require more insulation depending on the time of year.

For the active hunter a lightweight hunting sock is going to be best. This is going to not only wick moisture away, but because it’s thinner it will be more breathable and dry faster. Even when it’s cold out, if I’m moving on a regular basis, I don’t need a super thick sock to stay warm. In fact, having too thick of a sock could cause more harm than good because you’ll sweat more. Wet equals cold. You want to keep your feet dry and warm.

For more stationary hunters, sock choice is going to be temperature dependant. In the early season, a lightweight sock will be just fine. However, when it gets cold, this is where the gap increases between the active and stationary hunters. In these cases, lean on the mid-heavyweight side. When you’re not moving as much, you’ll require more insulation simply due to the fact that you’re radiating less heat.

Test Before Your Hunt

This is not a cookie-cutter process. The hunting sock that your buddy loves might not do right by you. I’ve had that happen in the past. Maybe you just don’t like where a certain seam or reinforcement zone is on a sock, thus decreasing the comfort level.

With that said, test your socks before heading out on a hunting trip — even if that’s just wearing them around the house for a day. You won’t know if they’re going to work unless you try. And you don’t want to find out they don’t while out on a hunt.

They say that ducks are the “new chickens” – backyard farmers all over the country are beginning to enjoy the pleasure of keeping ducks. Our ducks are all different breeds because I enjoy variety and I like being able to tell them apart….and because there are so many great breeds I couldn’t choose just one!

Before I kept ducks, like most people, when I pictured a duck the first thing that came to my mind was a large white duck with an orange bill – like the one that tries to sell me insurance in case I get hurt. The next duck I thought of was the classic green-headed Mallard that graces nearly every pond in the Northern Hemisphere.

That was pretty much the extent of my duck breed knowledge. The large, white Pekin duck is the most popular domestic duck breed around. The Mallard is thought to be the breed that nearly every domestic breed of duck is derived from so you will recognize their traits in many domestic breeds. While Pekins and Mallards are awesome, there are tons of other amazing duck breeds available, many of whom are on the endangered list, and would love to find a home in your yard.

If you are thinking about adding some ducks to your life, check out some of these popular duck breeds!

Let’s start at the beginning….

Mallard

Native to most countries in the Northern Hemisphere, Mallards are thought to be the “father” of all domesticated ducks except for Muscovy. Mallards are small, making them capable of flight. They don’t tolerate confinement very well, so if you keep Mallards you risk them flying away and not returning unless you can provide a nice, large, covered enclosure. Mallards lay a beautiful greenish egg, and are highly energetic and talkative. They have one of the lowest egg-laying rates of the domesticated breeds, laying just a couple of eggs per week.

Wild Mallards are widely hunted and removing birds from the wild to raise in captivity is a big no-no with US Fish & Wildlife. Raising wild ducks is actually illegal in many states. When keeping Mallards, you need to mark them to show you have not “duck-napped” them. Metzer Farm, one of the biggest duck breeders in the country, removes the back toe as soon as they hatch to permanently mark that duck as domestically bred.

Male ducks have a glossy green head with a white ring around their neck and grey on their wings and belly, while the females are mainly brown-speckled with a blue band on their wing called speculum feathers. Most people that keep Mallards do so for purely decorative reasons, or for training hunting dogs.

Pekin

Beautiful all white feathers on a heavy, large size bird. Pekins are popular because they are dual purpose. Hens lay a large number of white eggs so they are great to keep as layers. Their fast growth rate & light-colored skin also make them excellent to raise as meat birds. Around 90% of the duck meat produced in America comes from Pekins. Pekins are a heavy-weight bird with a calm, friendly, curious disposition, lots of eggs and meat if you want it – Pekins are a great all-around choice.

Muscovy

A really interesting bird native to the southern hemisphere. Commonly referred to as a duck, Muscovies in fact are a different species than the Mallard duck relatives. Their meat is leaner than duck meat with a plump breast like a turkey. They nest like ducks do, but also like to roost at night like chickens. Muscovies are shaped like a duck and are able to mate with a duck, but the offspring will be sterile and are referred to as mule ducks. They do not quack; the male has a low breathy call, and the hen a quiet coo which makes them perfect for backyard farmers with close neighbors. The male has large red fleshy growths around his eyes called caruncles, the females also have caruncles but to a lesser extent. Most domesticated Muscovys are dark brown or black & white.

Cayuga

The only duck breed developed in the United States, Cayugas originated near Cayuga Lake in New York. They are a medium-heavy breed that is slow growing. Cayugas have gorgeous black iridescent feathers that can look green when light shines on them, black bills and black feet (laying females and older birds sometimes have a bit of orange in their feet). They are usually raised for exhibition or eggs and their calm disposition makes them a great choice for backyard flocks. Hens generally lay 3-4 eggs per week and have a charcoal or black-colored shell early in the laying season. Mid to late season eggs & eggs from older birds are usually very light gray. Cayugas are listed as threatened status by the Livestock Conservatory.

Buff Orpington

Buffs originated in the Orpington area of Kent, England in the early 1900s (by William Cook, the same man that gave us the popular Buff Orpington chicken). A medium size duck, originally bred as an egg laying breed, you can expect an average of 3-5 white to light brown eggs per week. They have lovely fawn buff feathers with a brownish orange bill and a sweet personality. Buff Orpingtons are listed as threatened.

Rouen

A wonderful multi-purpose duck. A large bird that will lay 3-5 bluish tinted eggs per week. Rouens are a popular alternative to Mallards because they are nearly identical, but much larger so are too heavy to fly away. The males have a glossy green head with a white neck ring and a grey body. The females are brown laced with blue speculum feathers. Their calm disposition also makes them wonderful pets or additions to your backyard farm.

Crested

Usually raised for exhibition purposes or as pets, crested ducks are large white ducks with a ball of feathers, or crest, on their heads. They are slow growing so they are not a popular meat choice, but do lay fairly well (2-4 eggs per week). Bantam crested ducks & crested ducks in colors other than white have also been gaining popularity in recent years. The crest is actually a genetic mutation causing a deformity of the skull, so breeding them sometimes causes some controversy among animal rights groups. Breeding can be tricky – breeding a crested duck with another crested duck can be fatal for the offspring. To breed them you need to breed a crested to a non-crested duck, 1/4 of fertile eggs will never hatch, 1/4 will be crest-less, and only half of the ducklings will develop a crest.

Saxony

A great dual purpose breed, the Saxony is a heavy, fast growing duck that also lays a large amount of white or light blue eggs. Originally bred in the 1930s in Germany, nearly all the breeding stock was lost in World War II. Saxony are listed as critically endangered by the Livestock Conservancy. Males display the typical Mallard pattern, but their colors are unique from any other breed. The male’s head & wing markings are blue-gray, with a chestnut breast and cream belly. The females are a golden buff with cream/white facial stripes, neck ring & belly. They are calm, curious & excellent natural foragers.

Call Ducks

Their petite size, calm temperament & playful attitude make Call ducks very popular as pets or for exhibition. Adorably small; full-grown adults tip the scale at under 1.5 pounds. Call ducks were originally bred by duck hunters. The Call duck’s quack attracts wild ducks to the hunting area. For hunting, Call ducks have been nearly entirely replaced by artificial duck calls & decoys, so now these ducks are mainly raised as pets. As expected, they have a very loud call and are very talkative so they might not be the best choice if you have close neighbors. In recent years, multiple colors of Call ducks are becoming available. The two most popular are white (an all white duck) and grey (looks like a mini Mallard)

Swedish

A medium to large size dual purpose bird, they are slow growing and excellent natural foragers. You can expect 3-4 eggs per week with varying shades of white, blue and green. They have calm temperaments and will make a great addition to your backyard farm! Black Swedish are mostly black with a white patch on their neck & chest. Blue Swedish are a slate blueish gray with a white patch on their neck & chest. The color blue will not breed true however. If you breed a blue male to a blue female, half will be true Blue Swedish, a quarter will be Black Swedish and the other quarter will be Splash or Silver (either speckled white & grey or a silvery gray)

Runner

These ducks do not have the typical “duck” body shape – they are lightweight and stand upright like penguins, they always remind me of bowling pins! Their upright stance allows them to run fast rather than slowly waddle like other domesticated ducks. They were originally bred in China to help rice farmers control insects in the rice paddies. They are excellent egg layers & natural foragers, laying 4-5 eggs per week that usually have a blueish tint to them. Runner ducks tend to be nervous and can stampede when startled.

Khaki Campbell

Campbells are usually raised for their superior egg production, they can lay 5-6 cream colored eggs per week! Their excellent egg laying abilities make Campbells one of the most popular choices for backyard keepers. They are a medium weight bird, their smaller size means that some birds are able to fly for limited distances. Developed in the late 1800s by Adele Campbell, she crossed a Runner with a Rouen to create a duck that would lay well like a Runner but will be bigger to use as a meat bird. Campbells are a warm khaki color with the drakes having a darker bronze colored tail and dark head.

Magpie

A lightweight bird, they are excellent egg layers – laying 4-5 colorful eggs per week. Magpie’s eggs can vary from white, cream, blue, and green. Their feathers are usually black & white, but also can be found in blue & white with an orange bill. Generally a quiet & calm breed, they make excellent additions to suburban farms.

Silver Appleyard

This is a BIG duck! In coloring, they are similar to Mallards with the male featuring a green head, brown mottled chest with some feather lacing, and cream colored underbody. The females have a silver/white underbelly with brown lacing and iridescent speculum wing feathers. Silver Appleyards are calm & friendly and very reliable egg layers.

Welsh Harlequin

A colorful all purpose duck, they are raised for exhibition, eggs & meat. Welsh Harlequins are a medium weight duck and are also prolific layers, laying 4-6 eggs per week that vary in color from white to light blue tint. They are calm and great natural foragers. The females have a black bill with white & brown feathers and a blue speculum feather ban. The males have an orange bill and closely resemble a male Mallard with a green head, white neck ring and brown body. Welsh Harlequins are one of the few duck breed that have a natural sex-linked characteristic. At just a few days old, 90% of them can be sexed by bill color. Welsh Harlequins are listed as critically endangered.

Do you want to be a better defensive shooter?

Of course, you do! So…can you attend a defensive firearms course across the country…basically once a month?

If you can, great! But if you can’t…welcome to the club.

So what do you do in between classes? Drills!

Defensive firearm drills are a great way to work on new skills and keep the ones you have sharp.

We’ve put together a few defensive firearms drills to keep your skills sharp & build a solid base in defensive firearms use, all from the comfort of your local range.

Why These Drills?

There are lots of great drills out there to improve your shooting ability. The ones I’ve chosen here were done for a purpose.

First, they are great drills to master.

Second, they can be done with minimal supplies.

Third, they can most likely be done or modified to be done in accordance with your range’s rules.

1. Malfunction Clearing

This drill is all about learning to get your gun back into the fight when it goes down with a malfunction. This specific drill is designed to teach shooters how to defeat a malfunction.

All standard PPE is required.

Start the drill in the ready position, as if you had just fired and are going to fire again.

If you are using a timer, wait for it to sound off. When it sounds, the drill begins.

If you aren’t using a timer for this drill, just start when ready.

Pistol

Use an empty brass case or a Snap Cap to simulate a complication.

With a pistol, remove the magazine — retain it or drop it (if you’re carrying a spare mag).

Pull the action to the rear several times as you tilt the weapon ejection port down. Once the malfunction is cleared, reload the weapon and fire.

Firing a shot on target completes the drill.

Want to see it in action? Check out the Brownells’ Daily Defense video below.

Rifle

Each rifle functions slightly differently, but this drill assumes you are using a modern rifle. If not, adapt the drill the best you can.

Starting in the firing position, drop the magazine with the firing hand as the nonfiring hand locks the bolt to the rear.

With the bolt to the rear, the jam should clear; if it does not, clear the brass with your hand.

Reinsert the magazine and fire a single shot, and the drill is over.

Shotgun

This drill is for shotguns with tubular magazines — revert to the rifle drill for box mags.

With a pump shotgun pull the pump fully to the rear. If necessary, reach in and remove the malfunction.

With an automatic, lock the bolt back to the rear and clear the malfunction with your hands.

Put another round in the chamber and fire a round.

Make It Harder — Randomly load an empty case into the magazine and let the malfunction surprise you.

2. Failure to Stop a.k.a Mozambique

This drill involves two shots to the chest and one to the head, and it’s the same drill as any weapon platform.

The Failure to Stop Drill, or Mozambique, is mostly useful with a rifle or pistol.

A failure to stop drill with a shotgun tends to be unnecessary, but can be done.

Using a silhouette target with distinguished chest and head areas, set your target up anywhere from 7 to 10 yards with a handgun and 15 to 25 yards with a rifle or shotgun.

If range rules allow, start with the handgun holstered or long gun at the low ready.

On the go signal, fire two rounds into the chest of the target and one round to the head.

Then keep the weapon aimed at the target to ensure it’s down.

This drill stresses shot placement into critical areas of an opponent and also teaches shot transition drills on the same target.

Shot placement is the most critical factor in ending a defensive encounter, more so than any kind of supposed knockdown power.

Make it Harder – Place a 3×5 index card on the chest of the target and a playing card on the head of the target. Shots will only count if they hit the index or playing card. This challenges the shooter’s shot placement skills even more.

Read more about the Mozambique and its origins in our article here!

3. Box Drill

The Box Drill is almost identical to the FSD drill; however, it’s shot on two targets.

Like the FSD, you can use any weapon’s platform to complete this drill…as long as it can hold six rounds.

I place the targets about a yard apart because it’s faster to engage with your dominant hand.

Engage the first target with two to the chest, transition to the second target, and fire two to the chest.

On the second target, take your headshot, then transition and finish the drill with a final headshot on the first target.

This drill stresses shot placement and multiple target engagement.

It forces you to think under stress and focus on kicking ass in a proactive way.

Make it Harder – You can make it a little harder by placing the targets further apart if possible. If not, mix in a reload in between shots. Make it interesting by loading three rounds per magazine and reloading right in the middle of the drill.

4. El Presidente

The El Presidente was designed by the King of Combat handgun shooting, Jeff Cooper. This drill challenges a pistol shooter’s ability to draw, engage, transition targets, reload, and then re-engage multiple targets again.

The drill should be completed in 10 seconds — five if you’re an advanced shooter.

You’ll need three man-sized targets set 1 meter apart, with the targets staged 10 meters from you.

Start with a holstered handgun and a spare mag carried as you please — six rounds in each mag.

You’ll need a timer to really gauge your ability, but if running it just for fun, don’t worry about it.

Begin with your back to the targets, and hands in the air, in the false surrender position.

On the go signal, turn, draw and shoot each target twice. Then reload, and shoot each target two more times.

The drill is quite challenging and does have a lot of moving parts. As such, finding a range that will accommodate it might be tough.

We offer an in-depth dive into El Presidente here.

5. 1 to 5 Drill

Designed by Kyle Lamb, the 1 to 5 Drill is perfect for any modern defensive rifle.

Kyle Lamb was a Sergeant Major in the U.S. Army, a Delta Force Operator, and participated in numerous deployments, including the Black Hawk Down incident. He’s the lead instructor at Viking Tactics and the subject of a serious man-crush on my part.

Lamb designed the drill to stress shooting until the target is down. Instead of focusing on the double-tap and transition, you’ll place a multitude of rounds on multiple targets.

You’ll need three man-size silhouettes set about a yard apart. The targets are only 5 yards from you.

Load one magazine with 15 rounds, insert it and make ready with your rifle.

Start in the low-ready position with your rifle. On the signal, put one shot on the left-most target, two shots into the center target, and three shots into the rightmost target.

Next, you shoot four shots on the center target and finish with five shots on the left target.

You should be able to do this in about five seconds. Anything less means you are doing pretty dang good.

6. Shotgun Casino Drill

I love my shotguns, and there is a drought of shotgun-specific drills.

However, I did see John at Active Self Protection post something called the Shotgun Casino Drill, which is new to me.

Shotguns are low-capacity weapons that require you to learn to reload to run one properly. This drill stresses speed combined with reloads and makes the shooter think.

You’ll need four targets, a pump or semi-auto shotgun, ten rounds of ammo, and a means to carry spare ammo on the gun or body. I prefer side saddles, but it’s up to you.

A shot timer is also required, with the par time set to 30 seconds. All four targets should be set up in a row, placed five yards from the shooter. Load the gun with four rounds.

Your goal is to fire one round into target one, two rounds into target two, three rounds into target three, and four rounds into target four. That’s ten rounds, but you start with only four in the gun.

How you achieve the goal and the method by which you reload is up to you. You can start loading extra rounds as soon as the timer goes off if you choose, reload as needed, or run port reloads after the first four.

It doesn’t matter as long as you get the appropriate amount of rounds into the appropriate targets within 30 seconds.

This drill stresses your recoil mitigation, target transitions, reloading skills, and ability to think under pressure. It’s a fair bit of fun, and you’ll likely have no problems passing.

If you’re faster than the clock, you can always adjust the par time as necessary to make you move faster.

7. Shooting and Moving Multidirection Live Fire Drill

Mike Seeklander is the real deal. He’s a pro shooter, Marine, and an all-around awesome guy.

He teaches classes, has written numerous books, and has contributed to the firearms world in a very positive way. One of his creations is the Shooting and Moving Multidirection Live Fire Drill.

This rifle drill incorporates movement in nearly every possible direction and stresses shooting on the move and proper footwork.

The drill requires a rifle, at least ten rounds, and two obstacles.

Obstacles can be poles, barrels, or anything else suitable. They should be in line with each other and spaced about five feet apart. The target should be set fifteen yards down range.

Start by standing in between the two barrels and then begin walking in a figure 8 around the two obstacles. While walking, have your rifle at the ready and engage the target as you move around the barrels.

This forces you to focus on proper footwork, movement, and accuracy. Use a relatively small target to demand excellent accuracy. Using an IPSC target and focusing only on the A-Zone is a great option.

Make sure you are using a fighter’s style of movement. Avoid crossing your ankles, and move one leg at a time without dragging your feet.

There is not necessarily a par time for this drill; the focus is on moving and shooting.

Due to the movement required, it is wise to practice without live ammo a few times. I run this drill with my Mantis Blackbeard system fairly frequently and get a lot of practice even without live ammo.

8. Sage Dynamics Eleanor

Aaron Cowan at Sage Dynamics was a driving force in the widespread acceptance of optics on duty and defensive handguns.

He’s a soldier and law enforcement officer that now spends his time educating the masses on firearms.

Today we are talking about a drill he devised specifically for handguns and rifles with red dots, although it’s also applied to rifles.

The drill is called the Eleanor and requires you to be both fast and accurate at very close range. It requires a specific target, which is free to print from the Sage Dynamics website.

The idea behind the drill is to practice rapid close-range shooting with excellent accuracy while also being aware of the height over bore issues with a red dot. Depending on your platform, the drill may change slightly.

With a rifle, you fire at five yards from the low ready. With a handgun, you fire from three yards from a holster. For both styles, you’ll need a magazine loaded with four rounds, a shot timer, and the Eleanor target.

At the beep, you’ll shoot the dot in the top of the target with a single round, then transition to the reduced size A zone (aka the square) and fire three rounds into it. Par time is 2.5 seconds to land those four shots.

This drill can be quite a challenge. I’m not ashamed to say I failed it several times and only barely passed when I eliminated concealment as part of the drill.

It’s fast and requires you to remember that height over bore issue and land those shots with a good degree of accuracy.

9. Shoot Two – Load Two

Even in the most kitted-up combat shotguns, you are likely only getting nine rounds or less. So, it’s essential for any shotgunner to know how to reload their weapon.

The S&L drill helps shooters master how to load a shotgun in the middle of using it.

A shotgun’s tubular magazine is an advantage since you can constantly load the gun as you shoot. Being a speedy reloader is the key to mastery.

Place any target downrange, and start 10 yards from it. I prefer to use clay pigeons set on the berm for shotgun training. Shotguns rip targets apart, so paper targets are kind of not needed. Clay pigeons explode and are fun to shoot.

You’ll need at least five shotgun rounds — Three in the tube and two secured outside of the shotgun to load the gun.

Shoot two rounds, reload two shells.

You want to reload with your non-dominant hand and keep the shotgun pointed at the targets.

The key to this drill is repetition. The faster you get, the better.

A way to measure your progress is by keeping time. Shoot two, reload two and observe your time.

Accessories to Maximize Training

I’ve mentioned a few accessories above, and I want to go ahead and double down on just how handy they are.

These tools will make it a lot easier to train and ensure you get the most out of your training.

Shot Timer

A shot timer is an invaluable tool for tracking your skills and ability to shoot.

Sure, a target makes it possible to see how accurate you are, but a shot timer shows how fast you are. You can record the data and track your progress.

A shot timer also adds stress to your shooting, making you work to overcome that stress.

If you can’t afford a shot timer, there are several apps that function decent enough. They aren’t perfect, but they’re better than nothing.

See our round-up of the Best Shot Timers!

Good Targets

While just about any target can work, I prefer targets that resemble an actual opponent. This makes it easy to determine how I’d deal with a real defensive situation.

For a round-up of our faves, see the Best Targets & Stands.

Snap Caps

Snap Caps are invaluable training aids in general — be it dry fire, basic firearm safety, or inducing malfunctions. These rounds are quite distinct from actual rounds but are built perfectly to the spec of a real cartridge. Snap Caps are cheap, easy to find, and are made for nearly any caliber imaginable.

Our faves are below:

• A-Zoom 12 Gauge Snap Caps
• 9mm Luger Snap Caps
• .223 Remington Snap Caps

But we also have an entire article dedicated to the Best Snap Caps for you to look at.

Final Thoughts

When it comes to training, remember that success is not measured overnight. You tend to get better in increments. Be patient and keep training.

For more on basic drills to do at the range, check out the Brownells’ Daily Defense videos below.

Or, for some basic rifle mounting exercises, check out this other video from Brownells.

Or check out the TC Drill below.

Got drills of your own…or any of your favorites we’ve missed? Let us know in the comments below. And if you’re looking to save some money on ammo, check out the Best Low-Round Count Drills and our guide on Dryfire Training.

300 Blackout Ammo has a lot going for it, right up to the point at which you try to take advantage of its subsonic prowess for tasks other than punching paper. Common subsonic loads, even if tipped with a fragile match bullet such as the ubiquitous 220-grain Sierra Matchking, plow 0.30-inch diameter holes straight through fleshy targets and keep on truckin’ right into the next inconveniently located piece of real estate.

We’ve tried bullets that in other applications are positively explosive. Hornady’s 208-grain A-Max, for example, fragments violently when shoved out the muzzle at even .308 Win velocities, but from a Blackout you might as well be using a DeWalt. Getting a .30-cal to expand reliably at around 1,000 feet per second requires a specialized projectile, and they’re not exactly inexpensive.

Being cheap bastards, in times past we experimented by cutting back the jacket tip on an SMK and then boring out the meplat, thinking that this would be enough to induce expansion. Great theory, sucks in practice. Gel testing confirmed that it performs no better than an unaltered bullet, so why waste the effort? Cutting to the chase, we rounded up a small selection of expanding subs.

Note there are a few more companies who offer bullets for you to roll your own (Cutting Edge, for example), but as work has displaced gentle-paced pursuits like reloading, we’d often rather pay in money than time.

If you decide that a subsonic 300 Blackout Ammo fills your requirements for a stealthy hog slayer, or you’ve settled on that caliber for home defense duties, then you might want to avail yourself of our buyer’s guide below.

300 Blackout Ammo Testing Protocol

All loads were tested for velocity using both 16- and 9-inch barreled weapons. A Remington 700, equipped with a Nightforce ATACR 4-16×42 and SilencerCo Omega was employed as our longer rifle, and it was this combo that we also used for accuracy and gel testing. Five-shot groups were shot at 50, rather than 100, yards as we felt this was a realistic distance for subsonic use. The shorty gun was our budget hog hammer — a franken AR built on a Gibbz side charging upper and equipped with a Maxim Defense PDW pistol brace. Note that all loads except the Fort Scott and Gorilla offerings were supersonic from the 16-inch barrel.

Velocity readings were taken using a Caldwell G2 chronograph, which has the useful ability to store data on your phone via Bluetooth. Chrono was set up 10 feet from the muzzle, ambient temp was 69 degrees at 2,100 feet elevation, and gel testing was performed using two, 16-inch Clear Ballistics gel blocks, placed end to end.

Fort Scott 190-grain SCS Brush Hog

Ever heard of these guys? Neither had we, until we walked into a gun store near San Antonio, Texas, where the counter jockeys assured us they were well regarded by local hog hunters. Intrigued, we bought a couple of boxes for testing. Unlike the rest of the projectiles in this test, these are non-expanding, relying for their wounding abilities on becoming unstable in media more dense than air. Gasp! The fabled M16 tumbling bullet!

Despite a healthy dose of skepticism, they turned in a decent performance, coming to rest after 180 degrees of flippage and 15.5 inches of penetration in bare gel, with the bullet’s base just barely under the back end of the block. Fort Scott seems to be using a set of dies that diverges from industry norms, which resulted in a misfire rate of around 50 percent in our bolt gun — the only sample to do so. On examining the case shoulder (which, in 300 Blackout, is even less significant than Chuck Schumer’s dick) it would appear that it’s both steeper and shorter than competitive brands, allowing the case just enough room to shift forward under firing pin impact. It ran fine in our AR, though.

Gorilla Ammo 205-Grain Silverback

Gorilla’s monolithic projectile features a gaping hollow point, which initiates pretty healthy expansion after about 3 inches of penetration in gel. One of the two loads achieving subsonic velocities from our 16-inch bolt gun, it’s mouse-fart quiet even in longer barrels. Not only did it retain all its weight after impact, but petals on the copper bullet remained sharp enough to nick careless fingers when pulling it from the gel block. Accuracy was plenty good for dispatching critters at subsonic ranges.

Hornady 190-grain Sub-X

Announced in December 2017 and released for sale three months later, Hornady added an expanding subsonic bullet to its existing five 300 Blackout ammo offerings. Built to their usual standards, the bullet features a red polymer tip to initiate expansion, a detail no doubt familiar to users of their Critical Duty line of pistol ammo. In our test rifle, it proved to be an accurate and consistent performer, and if a lone flyer were discounted, would’ve turned in a 0.36-inch group. Of the conventional jacket-and-core projectiles in this test, it was the only one not to separate. Note, however, that some polymer mags may have problems in presenting the blunt tip high enough to make it up the feed ramp in your favorite semi auto. Either use regular old GI versions or Magpul’s 300 BLK-specific offering.

hornady.com

Lehigh Defense 194-Grain Maximum Expansion

Lehigh’s wicked-looking solid copper bullets turned in an admirable performance, expanding as advertised and growing sharp, symmetrical talons when shot into gel. When dug out, they showed evidence that the fast twist barrels of our test guns would’ve caused additional tissue damage, as they screwed their way through the medium — in this case making three complete revolutions before coming to rest after shedding a petal. Those wanting additional penetration should consider Lehigh’s loading; it exceeds the FBI protocol, but if you encounter bigger hogs it affords a margin of safety on quartering shots.

Noveske / Nosler 220-Grain Ballistic Tip

Averaging 20-fps faster than the otherwise similar SSA load, this collaboration between two of Oregon’s most respected gun companies is unmistakable with its ominously dark finish. Accuracy was good enough for the task at hand, and the bullet core achieved 17 inches of penetration, after parting company with the remaining jacket around the 15-inch mark. About 30-grains worth of ballistic payload was shed in total, leaving a smoky-looking trail through our gel block as it threw off particles of lead and copper.

SSA 220-grain Ballistic Tip

Silver State Ammo was acquired by Nosler in 2013, and we suspect that both this load and the Noveske/Nosler above use the same bullet, with a different polymer tip and coating. Group size was almost identical to the Nosler load, and both bullets separated from their remaining jackets after 12 to 14 inches of penetration in bare gel. As this meets the FBI requirements, we don’t see this as a negative for defensive use, because both resulting fragments penetrate sufficiently to reach vital organs.

Photos by Kenda Lenseigne

More on 300 Blackout

• The Curious Origin Story of 300 Blackout
• New in 2021: Magpul’s 300 Blackout 20-round PMags.
• Radical Firearms Integrally Suppressed 300 Blackout SBR at SOFIC.
• 300 Blackout Buyer’s Guide.
• 300 Blackout vs 556: More than a Matter of Distance.

Let’s all agree from the start, boilies are the ultimate carp bait. Fished correctly nothing catches more carp around the UK and Europe than boilies and related hook baits.

But with so many available how can you know which are the best boilies on the market?

Here’s my guide to my bait and how to best fish it, it’s broken down as follows (Scroll through to what you are looking for)

Guides

• Best small boilies (12mm and under)
• Mid to large size (14mm+)
• Best freezer boilies
• Best popups
• Best wafters
• FAQs

Best boilie guide

Small boilies

As a day session angler, I’m really keen on smaller boilies and have used loads of different ones. Smaller boilies are a killer bait for winter carping. I always carry some 12mm boilies and hook baits on day sessions – they can be good for getting a bite if it’s a quiet day. My choice for the best small boilies is – Nash – Scopex Squid. These are awesome smelling bait that and the 12mms are nice and soft. They come with a full range of matching liquids and hook baits too.

A bag will last me a few sessions in winter and I generally fish them in a solid bag or small bed of broken boilies. When fishing the bottom baits I’ll occasionally use them in a method or pellet feeder as a hook bait (See my guide to the best feeder pellets here). I always get great results at the lakes I fish with these boilies and they are my go-to small bait. You can mix it up and fish a 12mm snowman which can give you an edge on some waters.

Best full-size boilies

I’m saying full size for anything 14mm+ as I class anything under that as a small boilie. This section is basically what I think is the absolute ultimate must buy boilie.

And the winner is…

CC Moore Live system

It’s fair to say CC Moores Live System boilies are my favourite boilie and these have accounted for some big carp around the world. They are a unique bait with an incredible smell and excellent consistency.

These are part of an incredible range of baits from CC Moore in this flavour with the stick mix being one of my favourite products to use. Here’s the full range –

1. Shelf life boilies in various sizes (15mm – 18mm – 24mm)
2. Matching Popups
3. Balanced wafters
4. Bag mix
5. Base mix for rolling your own
6. Freezer bait paste
7. Hardened hook baits
8. Airball popups
9. Pellets
10. Pre glugged hook baits
11. Dumbell boilies

The bag mix is fantastic for your PVA bags and it creates a good area of attraction around your bait to create a cloud of attraction. There are not many others on the market that combine these flavours and the difference gives you a good edge on harder waters rather than fishing the same baits everyone else is using.

If you want the best bait to catch more carp then I’d say you cannot go wrong with these – in summer, winter, autumn or spring!

Best popups

I could have done a whole separate page on pop-ups with the amount of weird and wonderful baits there is on the market. I’ve tried fishing with the odd fluro mixed colour ones but just find they don’t work, well they didn’t for me anyway. Ones like this are not making the list!

I’m sure someone out there loves these baits but it’s not me.

My favourite pop-ups are – CC Moore diary supreme pop-ups, washed-out pink colour. What I love about these are the colour and strength. The elite range can stay in the water for up to 24 hours and work really well with the matching glug. The 12mm is a great bait for the cooler months and is my preferred hook bait all winter. I’ll then switch to the larger sizes in the summer months.

These can be fished effectively on their own or over a bed of bait and work best with an added glug or bait spray booster. The 12mm version make great baits for a snowman rigs over a size 18mm/ 20mm boilie. These are excellent as a hook bait in a solid bag. As soon as you open a pot of these you’ll see why I rate them so highly. They are good sweet-smelling bait that is visually attractive.

Best Cheap boilies

Important – when I say cheap I mean ways to find good value quality boilies, I do not mean the £3 a kilo crap off eBay!

1 – Starmer baits – Starmer baits have a good range of quality boilies but with a bit of searching you can find 5KG bags of their offcuts and overruns at a great price – Check for stock here. With offcuts, you’ll never really know what you’re getting until they arrive and from experience, you’ll get some odd shapes and the occasional sausage in there. These are great boilies for feeding and mixing up how you fish. I’ve had some decent sessions on these.

2 – Premier baits – Randoms – Premier baits are one of my favourite frozen boilies manufacturers and for the best value freezer boilies you will not beat these at £17.50 per 5KG* (*Price correct at time of writing this blog, shipping is extra). These are again overruns from their mainline and are excellent boilies. Find them here.

Again you don’t know what you’re fishing with and will have a mix of boilies on the lake bed but at this price for the quality, you cannot go wrong. If available you’ll find them in the left-hand menu of the premier baits website.

Best freezer boilies

For big carp fishing and long sessions you simply cannot beat freezer baits. The quality of the baits are instantly noticeable and with a little prep and an air-dry bag (I use this one) then you’ll soon see the benefit of these baits.

1 – Premier Baits – Matrix Plus

What a bait the matrix is, I’ve caught loads of fish using these baits and were allowed I’ve some mates who take them to France every time they go. The Matrix plus is an advanced version of the original Matrix which is even more potent and took 2 years of testing before launch to make sure it was perfect.

The smallest amount you can buy is 5kg which comes in at a very reasonable £40 (Correct at time of writing and subject to change). Sizes go from 14mm up to 24mm and if you order 20kg or more then you’ll be able to split sizes. At a maximum, you can order 50KG for £290 which works out at just £5.80 a kilo – which is a great value.

FAQs

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Most modern bows have a complex method to adjust the draw length, and most require a bow press.

However, Bear compound bows are generally very easy to adjust and do not require the use of a bow press.

For this reason, Bear compound bows are one of the best bows for beginners.

Bear Adjustment System

Bear bows are one of the most beginner-friendly compound bows on the market.

This is because Bear archery made their bows completely adjustable for the draw weight and even the draw length.

There are some variations between the models, but the concept is generally the same.

Adjusting the Draw Length

Adjusting the draw length on your Bear compound bow is quite simple and can be done in less than ten minutes.

There are two steps to adjusting the draw length of a compound bow. First, we will adjust the module; this will set the draw length to your desired length.

Second, we must set the stop; this will ensure that the cams stop turning when you drawback.

Tools Needed

Adjusting a Bear compound bow is so easy that there are no tools needed other than the right size Allen keys.

This varies from model to model, so I like to have an Allen key set.

Fitting the small screws can also be a bit tricky, so I like to put my bow in a bow vice when adjusting it; however, this isn’t necessary.

Adjusting the Module

A compound bow module determines the draw length of a compound bow.

Many modules have only a limited range, allowing the bow to be adjusted in only small increments or in some cases, not at all.

However, the modules found on a Bear compound bow have a wide range of adjustments and, in most cases, do not need to be swapped for any size draw length.

To adjust the draw length on the bear compound bow module:

1. Find your draw length number. Once you know your draw length, you can find it’s corresponding number on the bear compound bow cam. For example: on a Bear Wild compound bow a 28 inch draw is number 4 on the module.
2. Secure the bow in a position that is comfortable to work on.
3. Locate the module. This is usually located on the cam on a single cam bow. On a dual cam bow the module is typically located on the tom cam.
4. Unscrew the two screws on the back of the module. Be careful not to lose the screws as the module will fall once the two screws are undone.
5. Slide the module to the number that corresponds with your draw length.
6. Locate the two holes that perfectly align between the module and the bow and redo the screws. Hand tighten the screws and be careful not to overtighten.

Adjusting the Stopper

Now that the draw length is set, we have to set the stopper to align with the draw length.

1. Locate the stopper. Typically on a single cam bow, the stopper is located on on the outside of the cam.
2. On a dual cam bow, there are two stoppers, and it is important that both are set equally to ensure your bow is firing evenly.
3. Undo the stopper and set it to the same number as what you set the module to.
4. Drawback your bow to check your draw length.

Important Things to Remember

Ensure that you are using the proper tools. Some bow manufacturers use metric measurements, and others use imperial. Find the one that fits your bow perfectly to prevent damaging the screws.

Double-check that you are undoing the proper screws. There are a lot of screws around the cams of a bow, so it’s important to double and triple-check that you have the correct screw.

Undoing the wrong screw could cause damage to the bow and injury to you.

Final Thoughts

Adjusting the draw length on a Bear compound bow is straightforward.

Once you find your corresponding number on the module to match your draw length, it’s only a matter of moving the module and the stopper to that number.

The whole process takes less than ten minutes, and you’re back up shooting again.

It’s easy to mistake the screws, so double-check that you have the right screw before undoing it to prevent damage and possible injury.

One of the greatest ways whitetails communicate with each other is through the scent they leave behind. Throughout the year bucks are constantly marking their territory with scent, and scraping behavior is one of the chief ways they do it. Though bucks will work a scrape’s overhanging licking branch throughout the year their most aggressive scraping is done from October to December, when testosterone levels are highest.

Bucks will work prime licking branches 365 days a year with 80% of scraping behavior in the North occurring from mid-October to mid-November.

When a whitetail buck makes a scrape he does so where there is an attractive branch hanging along a roadway, at the edge of a field, on a well-worn trail, or in a random area he’s walking through.

In most cases a buck begins the scraping process by rubbing his forehead, preorbital, and nasal glands on the branch and in some cases will actually lick and chew on the overhanging branch. Once done, most bucks will paw the leaves and other debris from the ground under the branch, then urinate into the pawed out earth. The process usually takes less than two minutes, but during this time a buck will leave liberal amounts of scent behind. Scraping, like rubbing, allows a buck to make his presence known by dispensing scent throughout his area.

Typical scraping behavior involves leaving scent from a buck’s nasal, preorbital and forehead glands. When done working the branch bucks will paw the ground and urinate into the ground.

Hunters debate whether scraping is primarily a “buck thing” or if it’s done to attract does. During my years of photographing and hunting whitetails throughout North America, I’ve seen many does work a scrape’s licking branch. Only twice have I actually seen a doe paw the ground below the licking branch after scenting the licking branch. However, I’ve killed several does in archery season that were working a scrape’s licking branch when I released the arrow. On the other hand I’ve seen and photographed hundreds of bucks making scrapes during my career. So, based on this, it’s my view that scraping is primarily a buck behavior, a behavior they use to dispense scent and show dominance.

Though they seldom paw the ground does will actively work a scrape’s overhanging licking branch.

I believe scraping is also a satisfying, conditioned response for bucks. When working an overhanging licking branch, a buck is greatly satisfied by the branch massaging his forehead, preorbital and nasal glands. I don’t believe a buck consciously knows he is spreading his scent to other deer.

Judging from the hundreds of photos I’ve taken of scraping bucks, it appears the satisfying and stimulating aspects of scraping might explain why a buck performs scraping behavior so frequently. I’m not saying scent-depositing isn’t a big part of scraping, because it is. But I’m convinced the dynamics of scraping are incredibly complex and serve several functions, probably more than we’ll ever realize.

The age structure of a buck population heavily influences the amount of scraping that will take place. If yearling bucks dominate an area, scraping behavior will not be great. However, if there are an abundant number of 2+ year old bucks in the population, scraping sign will be very evident.

In 1990 I was a part of a scrape research project conducted on the Avery Estate in New York State where deer could be closely monitored in a natural setting. We discovered that during the two weeks leading up to peak breeding mature bucks made 6 to 12 scrapes every hour they were on their feet.

During the two weeks leading up to peak breeding mature bucks can be expected to make between 6 and 12 scrapes every hour they are on their feet.

Classifying Scrapes

The way I classify the scrapes I find has evolved over the years. When hunters began to understand the whitetail’s scraping process in the early 1970s scrapes were commonly described as “boundary, secondary and primary.” Though I’ve used these terms, I learned along the way that there was a clearer way of defining what I was finding and photographing. In order to make the scraping process easier to understand I’ve settled on referring to the scrapes I find as boundary, random and primary.

Boundary scrapes: Boundary scrapes are made as bucks travel through their territory. These scrapes often show up along the edge of fields, fence rows and old roadways. Those made along field edges are nearly always made at night. Because of this I pay little attention to these scrapes except for checking the track size. If the track is more than 2 ¼ inches wide (with no more than a ¼ inch split in the toes) the buck is probably over 2 ½ years old and nearing maturity. Such bucks will also tip the scales at over 175 pounds (live weight) in the North.

Random scrapes: Random scrapes are just that—scrapes that are made spontaneously as a buck cruises his territory. A buck will often make a random scrape whenever he comes upon an attractive licking branch and is “moved” to work the site. Seldom will they be reused and in most cases are not serious candidates for a hunting set up.

Primary scrapes: Primary scrapes are the ones hunters need to pay attention to. In many ways they are the “mother lode” of whitetail scrapes, with some having the potential of becoming very attractive to whitetail bucks. They are most often found in strategic locations—inside corners, ridge lines, and especially along well-worn trails between bedding and feeding areas during the rut.

In many instances bucks will make a line of scrapes (20 to 50 yards apart) along such trails. Because many primary scrapes are found along well-worn trails, more than one buck (and does) will work and rework them during the seeking, chasing and breeding phases of the rut. I’ve probably killed more bucks over primary scrapes along well-used runways than any other place.

Hunting scrapes in prime travel corridors can be a very successful strategy in the days leading up to peak breeding, when bucks are on the move.

Timing

Though bucks work licking branches 365 days to leave their scent, prime scraping behavior occurs in the 30 day window leading up to peak breeding, especially during the last 10 days. Once breeding kicks in scraping behavior drops off drastically. During the post-rut scraping still occurs, but it is only a fraction of what it was before the rut.

March 18, 2015

Kari:

Finer salt works best. Alum (aluminium sulfate) is a pickling compound that can be found in bulk at feed stores. I like it for bunnies because other methods of tanning such thin hides have resulted in a lot of work for semi-softened product. I recommend trying various methods to see which you like best!

1. Mix 1 cup salt + 1 cup alum + 2 gallons of H2O

Use 5-10 bunny hides, case skinned, fur side in and no de-membrane necessary. Case skinned means you pull off the skin like a sock. The membrane is the layer that holds the skin to flesh. The middle, the layer we want to work with, is an epidermis layer. The part that holds the fur to the skin is called the grain.

Soak hides for 2 days, stirring twice a day to make sure all folds get equal access to solution.

2. After 2 days, take out bunnies and squeeze solution from them back in to bucket- save solution! Peel off membrane (non-fur side). It is easiest to start at the bottom near the rump. Peel off all that you can- the hard work will pay off, the easiest time to peel this stuff off is now. Peel until pure white under-layer is exposed. A rule of thumb is peel until there is nothing left that can peel. The neck is usually the thickest and hardest to work.

Feed membrane to pigs!

3. After adding another 1 cup salt + 1 cup alum to the previously used solution, put bunnies back in solution. The bunnies need more of these compounds because they’ve probably already soaked up most of what you had put in the previous solution. So stir, and add bunnies back in.

4. I’ve found it best to let bunnies soak (stirring twice a day) for 5-6 days. I’ve been using frozen bunny hides mainly, so maybe that makes a difference, but I have found that hair tends to shed around 7+ days. The book says 7 days, so use your own judgement. Take out bunnies, toss solution, rinse, soap, and repeat the washing process again. Hides should be fur side out at this point. I think most soaps are good, I’ve used pine tar and dish soap before, and both seemed to work fine. Get all solution and soap out by the time you are done.

5. At this point you have some options. You can string the bunnies, hair side in, and let them dry and wait for a convenient time to work them. Or, keep them moist for a few days while you work them in batches. I recommend working 2-3 at a time, maybe more if you get a system down.

If you decide to work on a few now, then part hair down the middle of the belly and cut to make one flat hide. I part the hair to reduce the trimming of long hairs along the edge. Cutting along the belly is a good and common rule, but if you have a hole in the hide you might choose to cut a line including the hole to reduce holes in the main body of your hide.

6. I have found it useful to drip dry bunnies overnight and allow them to become a bit tacky before stretching. Stretching really wet hides doesn’t do much good and creates opportunity for ripping.

If you want to sew up any holes, do it before the stretching process with a tiny needle and trimming the corners of the hole to create an even surface when the hide is flat. Any thread should do, stronger the better probably.

7. So now is the fun part! You can stretch the hide all kinds of ways- between your hands, using your knees, over the back of a chair or on a corner. Get the middle and the edges, keeping a close eye on what seems to be drying and work it to keep it supple. If some part (usually an edge) is hard or yellow, give it a firm but gentle pull to release it into opening up. It will turn soft and pure white. I like to work the middle on the chair or a corner, as well as giving sharp pulls with my hands. Careful! Bunnies do rip. And it will happen. So test your boundaries and learn at what stage is best for what kind of stretching.

8. You will find out just how much time is needed in babysitting your hides. They don’t need to be stretched every minute, just keep an eye on them. When they are fully dry, give them a good shake and roughing up. It will help loosen things a bit. While drying keep at a cool or neutral temperature. Don’t heat or put by fire! They get crunchy! Sometimes it takes me 2 days to let a hide dry. Just let it take its time, it’s worth it!

I wrote a little ditty on harvest day of these rabbits. Warning: graphic content.