Folks often associate rain with ducks and great waterfowl hunting. Ducky weather, they’ll often say, sounding as trite as a Midwesterner complaining about the gosh-darn humidity during summer.

I’ve experienced some great days in the rain. I’ve also endured some awful rainy-day hunts. After a while, I began to realize that not all rainy, ducky days are the same. In fact, success in the rain often depends on many factors, including the ducks you’re hunting, the duration and intensity of the rain, and several other factors.

An old-timer told me years ago he’d hunt puddle ducks during a long, steady rain but would forget about divers during similar conditions. Generally, I think that’s good advice. Steady moderate to heavy rain seems to stifle diving duck movement more than puddler activity.

They key word, however, is steady. Puddlers and divers move like crazy immediately before and after periods of rain — even intense precipitation. I’ve seen seemingly dead lakes come alive with diver activity 10 minutes before thunderstorms or heavy downpours. Then, action wanes as the wet stuff arrives. Divers still move somewhat during the rain, of course, but the flight typically slows.

Puddlers, meanwhile, don’t seem to be quite as affected by steady rain. In fact, in some situations, such as field hunting, rain can increase your chances. During mild weather, ducks and geese often hit fields at first light, spend most of the day loafing on small waters and then feed again before going to roost. During a steady rain, they might spend all or most of the day in the field.

And consider this rarely mentioned tidbit: Some guides I know love hunting divers or puddlers during sunny days, when ducks can see decoys from long distances, but hate cloudy conditions unless it’s raining. Why? Rain, they say, obscures the vision of ducks so they can’t spot boats, hunters or other potential dangers. It’s an interesting theory.

Then you have those X-factors I mentioned. Wind tops the list, as a big breeze usually gets ducks moving during rainy or sunny days. Further, rain ahead of a major incoming cold front can trigger bird activity, as they sense the urge to feed or migrate, or fresh birds arrive with the new weather pattern.

If rain changes to snow, the debate ends: Get out there. Snow drives ducks crazy. Some of the greatest marsh, field and diver hunts I’ve experienced were associated with snowstorms — even prairie blizzards.

So, should you hunt in the rain? That’s really up to you. I always figure I’ll shoot more ducks during a steady rain than I would sitting at home. I don’t layout hunt during long, steady rains, because doing so is a form of torture similar to lying in a bathtub and turning on the shower — on its coldest setting. However, I’ll gladly brave intermittent showers or light, spitting rain.

My best advice is to watch the radar and get an idea of what the day holds. Then, weigh all the factors, and go with your best instinct. Do not hunt if thunderstorms are forecast. If it appears the rain will stop after a few hours, think about holding off and hunting later. If it looks like an all-day drencher, you’ll have to choose between getting wet or waiting for better days.

Really, with modern raingear, the only hassle associated with hunting in the rain is stripping and cleaning your gun afterward. Sure, that can be a pain. But it beats moping around while watching the weather forecast for the next day.

In order to ensure a clean and humane kill, it is important to target the deer’s brain or spine. A head shot will often fragment the skull and damage the brain, making it difficult to ensure a quick and painless death for the animal. Additionally, neck shots can sever the spinal cord and provide a quicker kill, but they are more challenging to execute in the field.

.50BMG Sucks Out Deer’s Eyes?

There are a few reasons why you can’t shoot a deer in the head. First, it’s illegal in most states to do so. Second, it’s not a very humane way to kill the animal. Third, it’s difficult to aim for such a small target. Fourth, if you miss, the deer will likely suffer and die a slow, painful death. Finally, even if you hit your target, the deer’s brain is protected by its skull, so there’s a good chance that the bullet won’t penetrate and kill the animal instantly.

Is It Illegal to Shoot a Deer in the Head

No, it is not illegal to shoot a deer in the head. In fact, many hunters prefer this method as it is considered a more humane way to kill the animal. When done correctly, the deer will die instantly and will not suffer any pain.

Where to Shoot a Deer in the Head With a 22

When it comes to taking down a deer with a .22, there are a few key things to keep in mind. First and foremost, you’ll want to make sure you’re aiming for the right spot – the head. A well-placed shot to the head will take down even the biggest buck quickly and humanely. Secondly, you’ll need to have a good understanding of how your particular gun shoots. This is especially important when hunting with a .22 since they can be notoriously finicky when it comes to accuracy. Make sure you’ve done your homework and know exactly where your bullet will hit at different ranges before heading out into the field. Finally, practice makes perfect! Spend some time at the range honing your skills so that come hunting season, you’re confident in your ability to take down game with one clean shot.

Can You Shoot a Deer Head-On With a Bow

If you’re a deer hunter, you’ve probably wondered if it’s possible to take down a deer with a head-on shot from your bow. The answer is yes, but it’s not easy. Here’s what you need to know about making a head-on shot on a deer with your bow. First of all, shooting a deer head-on is only possible if the deer is facing directly towards you and within range. If the deer is even slightly turned to the side, or too far away, you won’t be able to make the shot. So, when you see a deer standing head-on in your sights, make sure to take the shot quickly before it has a chance to move. Secondly, because of the way a deer’s skull is shaped, hitting it dead-on in the center of the forehead is actually quite difficult. The sweet spot for this type of shot is just below the center of the forehead, where the skull begins to slope down towards the nose. This area is called the “kill zone” and it’s about 3 inches wide on either side of center. So aim just below center when taking your head-on shot at a deer. Lastly, remember that head-on shots are risky because if you miss even slightly high or low, you could potentially wound the animal without killing it outright. So make sure you’re confident in your ability to make this type of shot before attempting it in real life – practice at the range first if needed. And always follow up after taking any kind of shots at game animals so that you can track them down and ensure they’re humanely killed if necessary.

Where to Shoot a Bedded Deer

When you take a deer with a bow, the animal will usually bed down within minutes after the shot. If you wait an hour or more, the deer will likely move off the bedding area. Therefore, it is important to know where to look for a bedded deer. Here are some tips:

1. Look for rubs on trees. These are made by bucks as they scrape their antlers against the bark of trees. The rubs will be most visible on small saplings and young trees. Rubs can also be found on larger trees, but they may be harder to see.

2. Look for tracks in soft soil or mud near water sources such as ponds or creeks. Deer will often bed down near these areas so they can stay hydrated.

3. Examine vegetation for signs of trampling or grazing. This is another indicator that deer have been in the area recently and may still be present. 4 . Use your binoculars to scan likely areas from a distance before moving in closer . This will help you avoid spooking any deer that may be present .

Can You Shoot a Deer in the Neck With a Gun

Did you know that you can shoot a deer in the neck with a gun? It’s true! This method of hunting is often used by experienced hunters who are looking for a clean kill. The reason why this method is so effective is because the neck is full of vital blood vessels and nerves, making it a very sensitive area. When done correctly, shooting a deer in the neck will cause it to instantly collapse and die. However, if you’re not careful, you could end up wounding the animal which would result in it running away and potentially dying later from its injuries. Here’s what you need to know about shooting a deer in the neck: The best place to aim for when shooting a deer in the neck is just behind the ear. This will ensure that your bullet hits all of the vital blood vessels and nerves. You’ll need to have a steady hand when taking your shot as even the slightest movement could result in you missing your target. Take your time and make sure you have a good grip on your firearm before pulling the trigger. If possible, use a rifle when attempting to shoot a deer in the neck. A shotgun can also be effective but it’s more difficult to get precision with this type of weapon. Deer are fast moving animals so you’ll need all the help you can get when taking your shot!

Why Should You Not Shoot Deer in the Head?

When it comes to hunting deer, many people think that the best way to take one down is by shooting it in the head. However, this is actually not the case. There are a few reasons why you should avoid shooting deer in the head, and we’ll go over them all below. 1. It’s Not a Clean Kill One of the main reasons why you shouldn’t shoot deer in the head is because it’s not a clean kill. Even if you have a perfect shot and hit the deer right between the eyes, there’s no guarantee that it will die instantly. In fact, many times they will just be wounded and end up suffering for an extended period of time before finally succumbing to their injuries. If you want to ensure a quick and painless death for your prey, it’s best to aim for the heart or lungs instead.

2. You Might Miss Your Target Entirely Another reason why shooting deer in the head isn’t ideal is because there’s a good chance you might miss your target entirely. The head is a small moving target, and even experienced hunters can have difficulty making such a shot when they’re under pressure. If you do happen to miss, there’s a possibility that you could seriously injure or even kill the animal without meaning to – something that any ethical hunter would want to avoid at all costs. 3. The Meat Might Be Ruined If you do manage to make a clean kill by shooting a deer in the head, there’s still one potential downside -the meat might be ruined. When an animal is shot in the brain, blood vessels can rupture and cause blood splatter throughout its body cavity which can contaminate meat (particularly around entry and exit wounds). This usually isn’t much of problem if you plan on properly cleaning and dressing your game afterwards – but it’s still something worth considering if you’re hoping to get some tasty venison steak out of your hunt!

Why Do You Shoot Deer in the Heart And Not the Head?

There are a few reasons for this:

1. The heart is a larger target than the head, making it easier to hit.

2. A shot to the heart will quickly kill the deer, whereas a shot to the head may only injure it. 3. It is difficult to aim accurately at a moving target’s head, but much easier to aim for its chest area.

Why Shouldn’t You Shoot a Deer in the Neck?

When it comes to hunting, there are a lot of different opinions on the best way to kill an animal. Some people believe that shooting a deer in the neck is the most humane way to go, while others believe that it is simply not effective. So, why shouldn’t you shoot a deer in the neck? There are a few reasons why this method of hunting is not ideal. First, when you shoot an animal in the neck, there is a chance that you will only wound it and not kill it outright. This can lead to a long, painful death for the animal which is something that any hunter wants to avoid. Second, even if you do manage to kill the deer with a neck shot, there is a good chance that you will ruin much of the meat. The bullet can damage the spine and cause spinal fluid or blood to leak into the meat, making it unsavory and unappetizing. Finally, shooting a deer in the neck simply isn’t as efficient as other methods. When done properly, a chest or headshot will instantly drop an animal and ensure that it does not suffer needlessly. For these reasons, it is generally advisable to avoid shooting deer in the neck and opt for another method instead.

Why Don T Hunters Shoot the Head?

When it comes to hunting, there are a number of different strategies that can be employed in order to increase the chances of success. One such strategy is to target the head of the animal, as this is generally considered to be the most vulnerable area. However, there are a number of reasons why hunters may not choose to take this approach. One reason is that aiming for the head can be more difficult than aiming for the body. This is because the head is a smaller target, and also because it can move more quickly than the rest of the animal. As such, hitting the head can be more challenging than hitting other parts of the body. Another reason why hunters may not target the head is that doing so can result in a quick kill, but it can also lead to wounding or even killing the animal without actually causing it any significant harm. This is because if a bullet or arrow strikes an animal in the head, but does not penetrate its skull, then it will likely only cause superficial damage. In contrast, if these same projectiles strike an animal in another part of its body, they are more likely to cause serious injury or even death. As such, targeting the head can sometimes lead to unnecessary suffering on behalf of the animal.

Conclusion

In “Why Can’t You Shoot a Deer in the Head,” blogger Tom Nissley explains why shooting a deer in the head is not always the best option. Though it may seem like the most humane way to kill the animal, it can actually lead to a more painful death. The brain is protected by bones and sinews, making it difficult to destroy with a single shot. Even if the bullet does manage to penetrate the skull, it often ricochets around inside, causing immense suffering. For these reasons, Nissley recommends that hunters avoid shooting deer in the head whenever possible.

Do you want to get the keyboard warriors in a frenzy? Start talking about your favourite ice-fishing line. You’ll be summarily drawn and quartered by the internet police. Like most things in fishing, though, there is no right or wrong answer to the question of which ice line is best. Rather, it boils down to a careful trade-off of considerations. That’s why I have either florescent neon fire-coloured Sufix Performance Ice Fuse or bright yellow HV Maxima monofilament spooled on almost every one of the 58 ice rods I have ready to use at a moment’s notice.

Now, as soon as some folks see that I mentioned a super-line, they’ll wince and tell you that it ices up more than mono or fluorocarbon. Guess what? It does. But I ice fish for the better part of five months—from mid-November until mid-April—in temperatures that often dip down so low that it doesn’t matter if you’re talking Celsius or Fahrenheit. And stripping a small glaze of ice off my gel-spun every few minutes is a small price to pay for the benefits of no-stretch line and instant hookset sensitivity. I especially like that four-pound-test Performance Ice Fuse is the same diameter as the silk a spider spits out to build its web, so I can dance my light perch, crappie and ciscoe jigs effortlessly. And the stuff has zero memory, so coiled line is never an issue. I’m more than willing to get all of those benefits if the only price I have to pay is rubbing my hand up the line every few minutes to remove a bit of ice.

On the other hand, I like the stretch that monofilament gives me when I’m jigging for big walleye on Lake Winnipeg, for example, and lake trout around home. Hefty lake trout, in particular, like to go berserk, and rocket up when you set the hook, so monofilament doesn’t recover as quickly as super-line and you can often control the fish better.

I was talking about this a while back with buddy Donovan Pearase, who runs Blackwater Cats on Lake Winnipeg, and I found his thoughts to be enlightening. “A couple of my guides don’t mind maintaining their braided lines all day long, and stripping the ice off every five minutes,” he said. “But I can’t stand doing that. We’re fishing outside a lot, so I personally use eight-pound mono and a 17-pound test leader that’s as long as the thickness of the ice. That way, when you get a big walleye close to the hole, you will see the swivel, and take your time to get its head up.

“If I am fishing inside a shack, however, I’ll definitely use 15- or 20-pound braid. One of my guides swears by 10-pound braid, because he feels it gives him better jigging and snapping action with a spoon. We’re catching big fish—walleyes up to 15 pounds—so I like a thicker braid tied to a swivel, and then a 17-pound mono or fluoro leader.”

It is interesting, too, that not that long ago we did everything possible to hide our line from the fish, but these days bright red and yellow lines are the go-to for many ice anglers. Just the other day, for example, I had a great time landing 29 black crappies, 11 jumbo perch and two bonus northern pike. And, truth be told, I didn’t feel half a dozen of those fish when they hit. Instead, I kept my Helix 7 sonar unit in front of me, so that my rod tip was lined up like a gun sight, pointing straight at it, and then I simply gazed up and down, alternating between the screen and the spot where my yellow or red line entered the water. As soon as I saw it twitch and ever so subtly straighten out, I set the hook and iced another fish.

Some things in life are so obvious they get overlooked for a long time. That’s the case—no pun intended—with the 7.62×40 WT cartridge, a .223 Rem. case necked up to .308 Win. Original work on this cartridge was done by Kurt Buchert, who called it the 7.62×40 USA. With Buchert’s blessing, Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat took the concept and made it a functional reality.

Why? We’ll get to that. Folks have been trying to put bigger bullets and more power into an AR-15 for a long time for both military and sporting purposes. Examples include the 6.5 Grendel, the 6.8 Rem. SPC and the big, shoulder-smacking .450 Bushmaster. None have seen big-time success, but all have cult-like followings among users who believe they’re the answer to all things ballistic. Admittedly, I dote over the .30 Rem. AR, which I find to be the most powerful and ballistically balanced cartridge you can fire from an AR-platform rifle.

One problem is all these cartridges require not just a new barrel, but also a new bolt, possibly a new buffer and buffer spring, a new magazine and in some cases, even a new upper receiver. This makes conversions more costly and less appealing. With the 7.62×40 WT, all you need is a new barrel and a Wilson Combat-modified Lancer L5 AWM 5.56 magazine (though some unmodified AR-15 magazines will work). Ballistically, it converts your AR-15 into a flatter-shooting .30-30 Win., which sort of answers the “why” question.

Wilson began developing the 7.62×40 WT after studying the ballistics offered by the .300 AAC Blackout. He wanted a cartridge that would give optimum supersonic performance with lighter .30-caliber bullets, instead of the 220-grain projectiles for which the .300 AAC Blackout was designed.

“After experimenting with the .300 Blackout, I concluded the cartridge case really needed to be 39 to 40 mm long to work properly with common 110- to 125-grain, .30-caliber bullets,” said Wilson. (The .300 AAC Blackout case is about 35 mm long.) “Don’t take me wrong, I’m not anti-.300 Blackout. I just firmly believe it’s a subsonic-only cartridge.”

Wilson established his reputation by building superb custom 1911 pistols, but Wilson Combat also makes wonderful ARs. He is not just a competitive shooter with a tactical mindset; he is also an avid hunter. At present, Wilson may be doing more to help solve the feral hog problem in Texas using an AR-15 than anyone.

He discovered 125-grain Sierra Pro-Hunter and 125-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets actually performed more like controlled-expansion bullets at 7.62×40 WT impact velocities. After guiding hunters to more than 60 hog kills, Wilson believes, “With the same shot placement, the 7.62×40 WT works about like a 6.8 SPC and runs cleaner than it or the .30 Rem. AR when suppressed.”

Based on 7.62×40 WT testing I conducted using Wilson Combat ammunition, 125-grain bullets leave a 16-inch barrel at around 2,400 fps and a 20-inch barrel at 2,500 fps. This equates to velocities high enough to generate bullet expansion at 250 yards. If zeroed 1.5 inches high at 100 yards, drop at 250 yards is less than 10 inches. These are great short-range ballistics—perfect for hunting or a utility/survival rifle. With the wide variety of available .30-caliber bullet options, moderate-range tactical applications are virtually endless.

Granted, the ballistics are similar to the Soviet 7.62×39 mm cartridge used in AK-platform rifles. However, converting an AR to the Russian cartridge requires a new barrel, bolt and magazine. What’s more, that particular cartridge has a dismal history of poor reliability in AR-platform rifles. Additionally, since factory 7.62×39 mm ammunition is loaded with bullets having diameters between 0.308 inch and the original spec of 0.311 inch, accuracy can be less than inspiring.

Wilson Combat offers complete rifles, upper receivers, barrels and five different factory loads for the 7.62×40 WT, but it’s unclear whether others will follow suit. Given the usefulness of this cartridge, it wouldn’t surprise me if more AR manufacturers got on board, and Wilson expects no royalties to follow his lead.

Ammunition availability is the risk with any new cartridge—demand drives the train. The good news is, unlike some other new cartridges, 7.62×40 WT brass is easily made from .223 Rem. cases.

The 7.62×40 WT has become Wilson’s go-to cartridge at the ranch, but of course some folks will never get the concept. Despite what one unenthusiastic blogger has said about the round, an AR chambered for the 7.62×40 WT is lighter, more powerful, flatter shooting, harder hitting and infinitely more versatile than a .30-30 Win. lever action, whether you are hunting or fighting. It’s also a great youth deer rifle or police patrol rifle.

There’s no doubt the AR is America’s favorite rifle. Wilson Combat just made it more useful and, dare I say, better.

Choosing the best fixed blade broadhead for traditional archery can be challenging considering the sheer number of options available these days. You want one that is razor-sharp, tunes well with your arrow of choice, and holds up to the demands of practice sessions and hunting situations.

To save you a lot of time and stress, we did the research for you. We scoured the internet, got personal recommendations from various hunting Facebook groups, and tested some ourselves to bring you what we feel are the 10 best broadheads for traditional archery on the market today.

Which of these will work best for you depends on numerous factors, and what you prefer in a broadhead. Of course, cost almost always impacts the decision-making process, so we were sure to touch on that aspect as well.

Overall Best Broadhead

Zwickey Delta Broadhead

When I polled other bowhunters in one of my traditional archery Facebook groups, one brand that kept popping up was Zwickey. Zwickey has been producing quality fixed blade broadheads for traditional archery since 1938!

The Delta is a big, two-blade, cut-on-contact model constructed of high-carbon steel. The broadhead is 2 9/16 inches long with a 1 3/8-inch cutting diameter and weighs in at 170 grains. While Zwickey offers a glue-on model (featured below), this particular broadhead includes an adapter that allows it to screw into a standard arrow insert.

To prove its toughness, Zwickey claims a Montana hunter took eight bears with the same Delta 2 broadhead.

Best Single Bevel Broadhead

Iron Will Single Bevel SB-150

Iron Will broadheads are known for their high quality and strength which comes at a premium cost. These are the most expensive broadheads on our list, and one of only two single bevel broadheads that made the cut (pun intended) as well.

The single bevel broadhead is designed to maintain the arrow’s rotational spin through impact, resulting in a bone splitting effect and more tissue damage throughout the animal.

Iron Will broadheads feature super beefy .062-inch thick A2 tool-steel blades that are cryogenically treated and triple tempered to 60 HRC hardness. That will allow the Iron Will’s blades to withstand the demands of big game hunting for years, and allow frequent resharpening as needed to maintain a razor-sharp edge.

Best Heavy Broadhead

Steel Force Traditional Series Single Bevel Broadhead

This is the second of two single-bevel broadheads on our list. The long, lean design of the Steel Force provides maximum penetration and superb flight. Of course the single-bevel design will provide maximum damage and break bone if necessary.

The Steel Force is built like a tank out of 0.08-inch thick, knife-grade stainless steel. The broadhead is three inches long and one inch wide with an 11/32-inch ferrule, and is available in right or left bevel in 225 or 300 grains.

Best Glue-On Broadhead for Traditional Archery

Zwickey Eskimo Glue-On Broadhead

This is our second set of Zwickey broadheads on the list, but instead of being a screw-in model for a traditional insert, the Eskimo is made to glue onto a wood arrow or special insert. As we mentioned earlier, Zwickey has been making quality broadheads for decades and is a favorite among traditional bowhunters, and the Eskimo is probably the most popular broadhead they manufacture.

The Eskimo is a two-blade option with a 1 1/8-inch cutting diameter, and a weight of 125 grains. It feature an 11/32-inch taper hole. The cut-on-contact broadhead is made from special high-carbon steel so you can get the edges hair-shaving sharp. The triple-thick tip with special heat-treating resists curling and blows through bone for maximum damage. If you need a glue-on broadhead, you can’t go wrong with the Zwickey Eskimo!

Best 3 Blade Broadhead for Traditional Archery

EBBQ Woodsman Glue-On Broadhead

If you’re looking for a great three-blade option in a glue-on broadhead, then the EBBQ Woodsman may be the perfect option. The Woodsman is machined from a solid piece of tool-grade steel and features a pyramid tip for increased strength.

The broadhead has a one-inch cutting diameter and is coated in advanced pure Teflon for maximum durability. The Woodsman is made in the USA and backed by a lifetime guarantee. Unlike the other options listed here, EBBQ offers the Woodsman in a six pack.

Four Other Great Options

Simmons Land Shark

Another name that kept popping up among diehard traditional bowhunters was Simmons broadheads. The Montana-based company offers a variety of broadheads for traditional archery ranging in weight from 100 to 225 grains to cover every bowhunting scenario from whitetails to cape buffalo.

You won’t go wrong with any of Simmons’ numerous broadhead options, but for this article, we went with the 160-grain Land Shark. The Land Shark features tough .050-inch thick high-carbon steel blades with a respectable 1 5/8-inch cutting diameter. The concave blade design gives them unsurpassed penetration on both big and small game.

Every Simmons broadhead is made by hand here in the U.S. and inspected for perfect alignment before they leave the factory.

Magnus Stinger 4 Blade Arrow Broadhead

My broadhead of choice for my compound and recurve bows over the last two deer seasons has been the 150-grain Magnus Stinger 4-blade head. Like most of the broadheads on our list, the Stinger is a large, cut-on-contact broadhead that can be purchased with or without small bleeder blades.

Made from knife-grade stainless steel, the Stinger is razor-sharp right out of the package. The patented diamond tip provides bone-splitting performance on the largest of game animals, and the aircraft aluminum ferrule is spin tested to within .002 of an inch, providing perfect flight right out of the package.

One of my favorite aspects about Magnus broadheads is their lifetime replacement guarantee. If at any time you break, bend or have any concern with a Magnus broadhead, they will replace it.

Wasp Archery SharpShooter Broadhead

Wasp was one of the first companies to come out with replaceable blade broadheads, and they’ve been providing great broadheads ever since. They’ve recently started offering a traditional broadhead, the SharpShooter, that looks similar in design to the Magnus Stinger.

The 100% steel, cut-on-contact SharpShooter broadhead weighs in at 150 grains and features a razor-sharp .040-inch thick main blade with a 1-inch cutting diameter, and .027-inch thick bleeder blades.

While I love my Magnus Stingers, the Wasp SharpShooters are cheaper and seem to be more readily available through Amazon. At the time I’m writing these, they also feature a 4.6 out of 5 rating on Amazon with over 170 reviews. That’s really good for a broadhead.

Dead Ringer The Butcher Broadhead

Dead Ringer The Butcher broadheads also have a very similar look to the Magnus Stinger with a large main cut-on-contact head and smaller bleeder blades. The Dead Ringer heads feature a 0.925-inch cutting diameter and is only offered in 100-grain weight.

One thing that stands out to me on The Butcher broadhead is its long, tapered tip (as opposed to Magnus’s diamond tip). That lower blade angle makes The Butcher a great choice for anyone shooting a lower-poundage setup to help provide maximum penetration. On the flip side, the long, tapered tip will likely bend if it comes in contact with any hard bone, rocks or trees.

Dead Ringer’s website is lacking in information, so I can’t report on what the broadheads are made from or the thickness of the blades. I will mention that Dead Ringer’s reviews on Amazon are pretty favorable with a 4.4 out of 5 rating at the time I write this with over 220 reviews.

SIK F4 Fixed-Blade Broadhead

You probably haven’t heard of SIK broadheads. I hadn’t before I started researching for this article, but these appear to be great broadheads for traditional archery. These 100-grain, cut-on-contact, fixed-blade broadheads feature four blades for creating a maximum wound channel.

The laser-welded stainless steel broadhead features a .04-inch cut-on-contact main blade with .03-inch bleeder blades to deliver a 1.35″ cutting diameter. The 27° razor-honed edge angle on the full blade enables the F4 to cut forward or backward. All this wrapped into a compact design with field-point accuracy.

Summary

Choosing the best broadhead for traditional archery can be a pain, but you can’t go wrong with any of the ten broadheads featured in this article. Take into consideration what arrows you’ll be using, the overall weight you’re targeting with your arrow setup, and whether you’ll need a screw-in or glue-on broadhead. From there, you can try a few of the options listed here to help you find the perfect broadhead for your longbow or recurve bow this season.

If you have a favorite broadhead for your traditional archery setup not covered here, we’d love to hear about it! Feel free to drop us a note in the comments section below letting us know what you shoot.

Robert A. Pierce IIFisheries and Wildlife State SpecialistSchool of Natural Resources

Emily FlinnResource ScientistMissouri Department of Conservation

White-tailed deer are susceptible to a variety of diseases, parasites and injuries. Although these conditions do not account for a large percentage of annual statewide deer mortality (typically less than 5 percent), in some situations disease or parasite outbreaks can impact a deer herd locally or regionally.

Infectious diseases of deer can be caused by pathogens that include some viruses, bacteria, parasites and abnormal proteins known as prions. In rare instances, these pathogens are the cause of disease epidemics that result in significant mortality in a local population. These outbreaks are most common in herds with high deer density, which can increase the spread of the disease.

Fortunately, disease and parasite outbreaks seldom impact the quality of venison or make it unsuitable for consumption.

This guide provides an overview of the diseases, parasites and injuries that can affect free-ranging white-tailed deer in Missouri.

Diseases

Viral diseases

Hemorrhagic diseaseHemorrhagic disease is an infectious disease of white-tailed deer, with outbreaks occurring sporadically in Missouri. Hemorrhagic disease (HD) includes both epizootic hemorrhagic disease (EHD) and bluetongue (BTV) viruses. These diseases are very closely related and produce similar symptoms in deer.

Several species within the deer family are susceptible to the HD viruses, including white-tailed, mule and black-tailed deer. Domestic ruminants such as cattle and goats show no signs of illness or only mild signs when infected. In contrast, domestic sheep may develop severe illness when infected with the bluetongue virus.

HD is transmitted by biting midges of the genus Culicoides, thus disease outbreaks tend to occur from August to October, when midges are most abundant. The disease may go unnoticed in the wild because deer carcasses quickly decompose and are consumed by scavengers. Some infected deer may not show obvious symptoms; others may die in one to three days. Typical symptoms include fever; excessive salivation; swollen neck, tongue or eyelids; sloughed or interrupted growth of hooves; reduced activity; and emaciation (significant weight loss). Because sick deer are feverish, they are often found near water (Figure 1). However, in Missouri most deer that contract HD die quickly because they don’t have antibodies to fight the disease like deer in the southeast United States.

In Missouri, the severity and distribution of HD is highly variable. High-density deer herds may exhibit higher mortality rates due to increased contact between individuals, which allows infected midges to transfer from one deer to another. Incidence of the disease has ranged from a few scattered mild cases to dramatic outbreaks. Mortality rates during these outbreaks are usually below 20 percent; however, losses of up to 50 percent have been documented.

Not all infected deer will die from HD. The most common evidence that deer have survived the disease is from the sloughing, or cast and regrowth of hooves. These deer generally remain in good condition, and the hoof sloughing is simply a residual effect of the disease. In some cases, deer develop sores on their tongues, dental pads or insides of their cheeks. Their overall heath and condition will vary from excellent to poor depending on the severity of the secondary infection.

Humans are not at risk by handling or eating venison from an infected deer. Eating the meat of deer that have recovered from the disease poses no health hazard. However, deer may have developed secondary bacterial infections due to HD and thus, may not be suitable for consumption. If you find a dead deer and the cause of death is not apparent, report it to your local conservation agent (http://mdc.mo.gov/contact-us).

Figure 1In Missouri, deer infected with hemorrhagic disease often die quickly and are found near water.

Cutaneous fibromasCutaneous fibromas are wart-like growths caused by a virus that often infects deer through an open wound or insect bite. These growths can cover large portions of the body, but they are usually small, occur in single or multiple growths and range from a fraction of an inch to several inches in diameter. Fibromas are a more common occurrence in bucks because they are more likely to incur wounds while fighting and when rubbing antlers.

Although sometimes grotesque in appearance, fibromas generally do no harm to deer, unless they interfere with a deer’s sight or capability to eat. The virus does not infect other wild or domestic animals, or humans. Fibromas are confined to the skin and, therefore, are removed when the deer is processed for consumption. Thus, they do not affect or impact the quality of the venison.

Although sometimes grotesque in appearance, fibromas generally do no harm to deer, unless they interfere with a deer’s sight or capability to eat. The virus does not infect other wild or domestic animals, or humans. Fibromas are confined to the skin and, therefore, are removed when the deer is processed for consumption. Thus, they do not affect or impact the quality of the venison.

Bacterial diseases

Brain abscessesBrain abscesses are bacterial infections in the skull and brain. In white-tailed deer, brain abscesses most often occur in bucks (90 percent of cases) and are often seasonal, primarily due to the stages of antler development and fighting. During antler drop (casting) or severe fighting with other bucks, infections can develop on the skull near the pedicle, resulting in a brain abscess (Figure 2).

In the southeastern United States, brain abscesses are estimated to account for about 10 percent of natural mortality of mature bucks. Infection symptoms may include poor coordination, circling movements, blindness, lethargy (significant lack of energy) and emaciation.

The meat of a deer with a brain abscess is not suitable for human consumption.

Figure 2Brain abscesses are more commonly found in mature bucks due to intense fighting. In this photo, green pus indicates the infected area of the brain.

Lyme disease Lyme disease is caused by a bacterium (Borrelia burgdorferi) that is spread by certain tick species. The blacklegged tick (deer tick) is the primary species that transmits Lyme disease. Although deer and other wildlife can serve as a host for this tick species, they do not transmit the disease.

The life cycle of infection and the process of disease transmission begins during the spring, when tick eggs hatch into the larvae stage. During the summer, the larvae feed on several host species, including mice, squirrels, raccoons, rabbits and white-tailed deer. In the fall, the larvae mature into the nymph stage. The nymphs hibernate over winter. During the spring and summer, the nymphs are active and prefer to feed on mice, which serve as the reservoir (an immune host) for the disease.

No cases of humans contracting Lyme disease through the handling or consumption of venison have even been documented. Refer to the Ticks section below for precautions to take to minimize your exposure to ticks when handling deer.

Chronic wasting diseaseChronic wasting disease (CWD) belongs to a separate group of diseases known as transmissible spongiform encephalopathies (TSEs). TSEs cause brain degeneration in deer, elk and moose. The disease was first detected in a captive mule deer facility in Colorado in 1967 and since has been documented in free-ranging and captive white-tailed deer, elk and moose in several states.

The first deer that tested positive for CWD were found a few miles from a CWD-positive captive-hunting preserve in north-central Missouri in 2012. Since that year, CWD has been slowly spreading to other locations in Missouri and the number of deer testing positive have increased. Each year, the Missouri Department of Conservation tests a sample of the state’s deer population from hunter harvested deer for the disease. CWD testing has two main goals: detect the disease as early as possible in new locations and monitor changes in disease occurrence over time. Focusing testing on adult males increases the likelihood of finding CWD in new areas. Within CWD Management Zone counties (counties within 10-miles of CWD detections), a greater number of samples are collected, due mostly to “mandatory sampling” on opening weekend of fall firearms season. More detailed information on CWD surveillance and locations in the state that require mandatory sampling can be found on the Missouri Department of Conservation website.

The symptoms of CWD-infected deer include a change in the animal’s natural behavior, emaciation, excessive salivation, lethargy, stumbling and tremors. The disease is always fatal to the infected animal, but symptoms can take months or years to appear. Diagnosis can only be confirmed by laboratory examination of brain or lymph node tissue of an animal (Figure 3).

The movement and transportation of captive live animals, hunter-harvested deer or carcasses are the greatest risk factors for the spread of CWD into new areas. Natural movements of free-ranging deer can also contribute to the spread of the disease.

Once the disease is established, CWD spreads through animal-to-animal or soil-to-animal contact. Unfortunately, CWD can persist in the environment for a long time. Activities intended to concentrate deer to a location, such as feeding and placement of minerals or salt, are discouraged because direct and indirect contact at these locations can promote the transmission of the disease.

CWD tends to exhibit a clumped distribution on the landscape centered on the point of introduction. The targeted culling of deer near CWD-positive locations is one management strategy that may help limit the increase of CWD prevalence within a population. Additionally, minimizing the unnatural concentration of deer at feeding and mineral sites can reduce the risk of spreading CWD.

Chronic wasting disease is not seen as a human-health issue. The Missouri Department of Health and Senior Services and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) have determined there is no evidence CWD can infect people. According to the Missouri Department of Agriculture, there is no evidence that CWD can spread from an infected animal to domestic livestock, such as sheep or cattle. The Missouri Department of Conservation continues to sample deer for CWD. If you observe or harvest a sickly deer, please contact the Missouri Department of Conservation. You can learn more about CWD at http://mdc.mo.gov/CWD.

Figure 3To test for CWD, the retropharyngeal lymph nodes, the obex of the brain or both are collected and sent for testing.

Parasites

Nematodes

Arterial wormsArterial worms live in the arteries of white-tailed deer. Deer contract arterial worms when bitten by infected horseflies. Infections can result in food being impacted under the tongue causing facial swelling, with occasional tooth loss and jawbone degeneration (Figure 4). However, deer infected with a small number of worms will not exhibit symptoms. Arterial worms pose no threat to humans, and the venison of infected deer is safe for consumption.

Figure 4This area on the deer jawbone appears to be infected by an arterial worm.

LungwormsAs their name implies, lungworms infect the lungs. Only deer with severe lungworm infections exhibit symptoms, which include emaciation, respiratory distress (trouble breathing) and lethargy. Lungworm infections commonly occur in fawns in high deer density areas. The presence of this parasite provides additional motivation for maintaining deer population densities below an area’s biological carrying capacity. Lungworms pose no health threat to humans, and the venison of infected deer is safe for consumption.

Arthropods

TicksAbout 18 tick species have been reported to infect white-tailed deer. The three species most commonly found on deer in Missouri are the lone star, blacklegged (deer tick) and American dog ticks (Figure 5).

In most cases, deer infected with ticks do not show any symptoms, and tick infections rarely lead to death. However, deer with severe tick infections may experience irritated skin around the tick site, weight loss and secondary infections. Severe tick infections can also lead to poor body condition.

Ticks can also affect many other wildlife species, domestic livestock and humans. Humans are susceptible to several tickborne diseases, including Lyme disease and ehrlichiosis. When handling and processing infected deer, take these precautions to minimize your exposure to ticks:

• Hang the deer carcass for a day or two to allow the ticks to drop off.
• Wear latex gloves.
• Treat clothing with a tick repellent to decrease your exposure.
• Take a shower and check your body for ticks after being outdoors.

Figure 5The three ticks most commonly found on deer in Missouri are the American dog, blacklegged and lone star ticks.

Mange (Demodectic)Demodectic mange of white-tailed deer is caused by the mange mite. Although most deer will not show symptoms of mange, those that do will exhibit hair loss and skin thickening with small pus-filled lesions. Mange is primarily spread through contact with an infected deer or its environment. However, mange does not cause a herd health issue and is not a concern for humans. Mange infections are limited to the skin, therefore the meat of an infected deer is safe for human consumption.

Nasal botsNasal bot flies (Cephenemyia spp.) are common parasites that infect the nasal passages of deer. They also infect squirrels and rabbits. These parasites are most often found by taxidermists while preparing heads for mounting, although hunters occasionally notice them.

Adult female flies deposit small larvae in the nostrils of deer. The larvae enter the nasal passages and pass through several stages of development and growth. They are liberated from the nostril when the deer sneezes. They then form a pupa and emerge as an adult fly.

Although quite large (up to 11/2 inches long) and unpleasant looking in the final stages of development, nasal bots cause little harm to deer and do not infect humans. They also do not affect the quality of venison.

Injuries

Deer that have suffered injuries are occasionally harvested by hunters. Injuries may result from hunter-inflicted wounds, deer-vehicle accidents or incidents with fences or farm equipment. Many of these injuries heal without complication, but occasionally they cause infections that cause dead tissue and pus in and around the wound. Although localized infections or abscesses caused by an injury do not pose a problem to overall deer health, they can pose a local meat-safety problem. If an abscess is discovered, it must be trimmed out. If it has been accidentally cut or removed and has leaked matter onto the surrounding tissue and meat, that meat is considered contaminated and must trimmed out as well.

Conclusion

Infections resulting from diseases and parasites typically result in only a small percentage of annual deer mortality. However, hunters and landowners should be familiar with the possible symptoms, and hunters that eat venison should be able to identify disease symptoms when field-dressing and processing deer. Contact the Missouri Department of Conservation if you see a deer with an apparent disease or that looks unhealthy.

Additional references

• Campbell, T. A., and K. C. VerCauteren. 2011. “Diseases and parasites” in Biology and management of white-tailed deer, ed. D.G. Hewitt, 219-249. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.
• Davidson, W. R., ed. 2006. Field manual of wildlife diseases in the southeastern United States, 3rd ed. Athens, GA: University of Georgia.
• Southeastern Cooperative Wildlife Disease Study. The University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine. https://vet.uga.edu/scwds

Photo creditsEmily Flinn, Missouri Department of Conservation and Jason Sumners.

Today I’m going to show you the best scope for hog hunting.

In fact:

I’ve hand- tested over 10 scopes alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best AR-15 hog hunting scope, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

The 4 Best Scope For Hog Hunting

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best hog hunting scopes:

1. Leupold FX-II Ultralight 2.5×20: Best Hog Hunting Scope
2. Trijicon ACOG 3.5×35: Best Scope for Fast Target Acquisition
3. ATN X-Sight 4K Pro 5-20x: Best Night Vision Scope for Hog Hunting
4. Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 Thermal Riflescope: Best Thermal Scope for Hog Hunting

1. Leupold FX-II Ultralight 2.5×20: Best Hog Hunting Scope

The Leupold FX-II Ultralight is a fantastic fixed-magnification scope in a lightweight, low profile package.

In fact, I think it’s the best scope for hog hunting.

Want to know why? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass on the FX-II is very clear.

Leupold used their Index Matched Lens System to fully multicoat the scope which results in a very clear image. This is great for hogs on the move.

Also, the light transmission in this scope is very good. In fact, it’s so good that I can get an extra 20 minutes of shooting time out of this scope versus trying to shoot with my naked eye.

This is because of Leupold’s Twilight Management System.

Now, on to the reticle.

This scope uses a simple Wide Duplex reticle. The wide posts are great for rapidly drawing my eye in to center, and the fine crosshairs are precise enough for target plinking at 150-200 yards.

The reticle is etched into the glass and shows up really well in low-light conditions. This pairs really nicely with that great light transmission I mentioned earlier and makes for easy, clear sighting on those late-night hog hunts.

There aren’t any holdover lines, but with a fixed 2.5x magnification, you don’t really need them. This reticle excels in fast target acquisition at close to mid range.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

Here’s one of my favorite things about the FX-II:

The eye relief is a whopping 4.9 inches!

At this distance, you can even set your scope up “scout style,” where you mount the scope in front of the receiver of your rifle. This setup is a literal must-have for bolt-action guns and Garands.

Combined with the low-fixed magnification, this setup allows me to use the scope while still keeping both my eyes open. Speaking of magnification…

Magnification & Parallax

This scope provides a fixed 2.5x zoom.

I find that this amount of magnification is perfect for hog hunting since I’m usually within about 100 yards to my target.

This level of magnification is also great for rimfire plinking and varmint hunting. I’ve had a blast running the FX-II on my Ruger 10-22.

I’ve had no issues at all with parallax on this scope. That’s because Leupold has factory set the parallax adjustment to 150 yards.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

This scope uses ¼ MOA click turrets.

I like the solid “click” that I get when making adjustments, and the low-profile turrets help give the scope a sleek look.

Zeroing was quick and easy. I was zeroed in within about 5 shots and after dozens of hunts, the zero has held true.

Durability & Weight

I’ve come to expect durability from Leupold scopes, and the FX-II doesn’t disappoint.

The scope is waterproof to a depth of 33 feet, fogproof, scratchproof, and shock resistant. If that’s not enough, Leupold also tested the scope at temperatures from -40 to 160 degrees.

All these features mean that you can take this scope into any conditions without worrying about damaging it.

Here’s my favorite thing about this scope: It only weighs 6.5 ounces.

This low weight is not only great for my comfort as a shooter, but it makes the scope more recoil resistant, too. The heavier the scope, the more it wants to stay in place when you fire. A lighter scope travels with the rifle with less resistance.

Basically, this means that the lighter the scope, the more it’s able to take recoils without taking any internal damage or messing with your zero.

Plus, when you’re out hunting, you’d want a lightweight optic. Remember, every ounce counts 🙂

Mounting & Rings

The FX-II doesn’t ship with any mounts or rings.

So I’d recommend Low Leupold Rifleman Scope Rings to mount this scope to your rifle of choice.

The scope does include some slip on lens covers. But honestly, they felt cheap. So I went with Leupold Ultralight Flip Back Lens Covers (Eye piece: size 59060, Objective: 20mm).

These will keep your glass protected while still maintaining that nice, low weight.

Is the Leupold FX-II Ultralight 2.5×20 worth it?

The Leupold FX-II is a great riflescope that proves that great things can come in small packages.

It’s got:

• 2.5x zoom
• Clear glass
• Solid “click” turrets
• Extremely lightweight
• High eye relief for scout setup
• Wide duplex reticle for fast target acquisition

Plus, the whole thing is backed by Leupold’s Gold Ring Lifetime Warranty.

So if you’re looking for a durable, lightweight, affordable riflescope for close-mid range hog hunting and target shooting, the FX-II Ultralight is for you.

Still not sure what you’re looking for in a scope? Check out this Essential Guide to Choosing a Rifle Scope.

2. Trijicon ACOG 3.5×35: Best Scope for Fast Target Acquisition

For fast target acquisition, Trijicon’s ACOG 3.5×35 more than achieves expectations.

In fact, the “Advanced Combat Optical Gunsight” has been used for medium distance engagements by Marines and Special Forces since the early 90’s.

I figured if it works for them then it’ll work for me. I wasn’t wrong.

Read on to learn more…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Crystal clear glass.

That’s what I noticed when I first looked through the Trijicon ACOG. To be honest, I’m still a little amazed by how clear it actually looks. The image detail is awesome.

To top it off, I didn’t notice any fogging in the lens during those early morning hunts. Turns out, this optic is nitrogen purged.

When choosing my ACOG, I was a little overwhelmed by the different reticle choices Trijicon offers. With some research, I decided that the green BDC chevron was the best fit for me because it’s standard for military M4s.

After a few hog hunts, I absolutely loved this reticle. Here’s why:

First, it uses a simple-to-understand Bullet Drop Compensating (BDC) feature that automatically estimates windage, holdover and distance for you. Once you sight in at let’s say 100 yards, the hash marks below the reticle are great at picking off shots out to 800 meters.

And second, the illuminated reticle doesn’t need batteries to operate. During the day, a fiber optic light gathering strand directs light to the reticle. And at night, tritium illuminates the reticle.

However, I noticed that on REALLY bright days, the reticle can become too bright. This can make shooting distant targets inside a dim lit area somewhat challenging because the glow from the reticle is a little overwhelming.

I found that putting some tape on the fiber optic strand helps with reducing the illumination intensity. Simple fix in my opinion.

Speaking of fixing, the ACOG comes with a lense pen, which I use for maintenance. Keep in mind you’re not going to want to use any solvents on this (as with any high-end optic) or you’ll probably ruin the lense coating.

I haven’t done it myself but I have watched some guys hose mud off their ACOGs. Seems to work and their glass still looks great afterward!

Eye Relief & Eye Box

2.4 inches of eye relief is what you get.

Doesn’t seem like a lot, which is what I initially thought when I read the manual, but after actually using it on my rifle I’ve had no problems.

Keep in mind, troops use this ACOG on belt-fed machine guns without getting “eye punched” so you’ll be fine.

I had to remove my rear iron sight to get the proper eye relief but I don’t miss it. I even toyed with the idea of mounting iron sights offset at 45 degrees but simply decided I don’t need them with this ACOG.

The field of view when looking through the ACOG is more than generous for my needs. It also allows me to keep both eyes open, which greatly improves situation awareness.

Instead of squinting through a scope, I’m now able to more easily scan the surroundings during hog hunts and better prepare for my next target in competitive shooting.

In essence, the AGOC has noticeably improved my reaction time.

Not bad for only 2.4 inches of eye relief.

Durability

So far, the ACOG is the most dependable optic I own.

The moment I held it, I knew right off the bat this thing is built tough. And it’s true: The ACOG is forged from 7075-T6 aircraft grade aluminum alloy.

It’ll work if I do drop it.

And I have dropped it on a few occasions.

I have a SCAR 17, which is notorious for trashing out cheap optics, and the ACOG works flawlessly when paired with it.

No busted lenses or broken seals so far, even after dropping it from a tree stand onto roots. I’ve also dropped it on gravel and concrete. It still worked like a champ.

It’s also waterproof. The most water I’ve had on mine was from rain, but the specs say it can be submerged up to 100 meters.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

I’ve dropped my ACOG hard enough to dent one of the turret caps and it still maintains zero. Turrets still work great and feel durable.

Easy to zero but slightly different than other scopes. Adjustment increments are ½ inch per (audible) click at 100 yards. 2 clicks move the bullet 1 inch on the target.

The adjustment cap lanyard saved me from rummaging through tall grass to find butterfingered caps on more than one occasion.

Keep in mind…

As with any optic, don’t force the turrets beyond their adjustment limits — damaging the prism assembly is possible.

Even Superman has a weakness.

Parallax & Magnification

This ACOG has a fixed 3.5x magnification. Awesome for fast target acquisition.

No fumbling with various magnifications.

Plus, with 3.5x, longer shots using the BDC reticle are fun.

3.5x has less parallax than the 4x version. Up and down movement has no parallax that I can tell. There’s some parallax with side to side movement but nothing concerning.

Mounting & Rings

This optic comes with the thumbscrew mount for “flattop” MIL-STD-1913 rails or the carry handle screw and washer set (for ARs with fixed carry handles).

Can only find the carry handle mount option? Buy the MIL-STD adapter.

Adapters are also available for weaver rails and H&K firearms.

I use my ACOG on different firearms and prefer the throw lever mount for easy removal/attachment. There’s also a quick release option

Can’t seem to get the proper eye relief for your comfort? Try the extended eye relief adapter.

Concerned about lense reflections? Grab an anti-reflection device.

The ACOG comes with a Scopecoat but you may prefer a flip cover (like myself). Only available for the objective lens and it doesn’t work with the anti-reflection device.

Is the Trijicon ACOG 3.5×35 worth it?

If you’re out hog hunting and need the best scope for fast target acquisition, then get the Trijicon ACOG 3.5×35.

Here’s why:

• Built strong
• No batteries
• Generous FOV
• Easy to understand BDC

I’ll have to admit:

The ACOG comes at a considerable price for a fixed magnification. But if you’re looking for fast target acquisition AND Special Forces approval, then this is it.

(Need something cheaper? Check out my review on the Aimpoint Pro vs. T1).

If you’re settled on buying this, be warned: Watch out for knockoffs. This video will help you determine what’s legit:

3. ATN X-Sight 4K Pro 5-20x: Best Night Vision Scope for Hog Hunting

The ATN X-Sight Pro is a high-tech night vision scope with a ton of advanced features.

In fact, it’s the best night vision scope available for hog hunting.

This scope packs in the kind of advanced features that you only get from a digital scope, but it looks and feels like a traditional riflescope.

How have they done this? Read on to find out.

Image Quality & Reticle

The image quality when looking through this scope is fantastic.

In the daylight, I can see every detail, and the color fidelity is incredible. This is all thanks to the 4k Ultra HD sensor that makes up the backbone of this scope.

And at night, I can clearly see my targets even in total blackness, thanks to the included infrared illuminator. This is important when hogs decide to charge in the night!

One of my favorite things about this scope is the reticle.

The X-Sight uses a digital Smart Mil Dot reticle.

You can customize the variance between the mil dots using the smartphone app so that your reticle is custom tailored to your caliber and load. Plus, the reticle automatically adjusts as you increase zoom.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

Unlike many digital scopes, the X-Sight has a much more traditional eye relief.

I set mine right at 3.5 inches.

Now, here’s one of my issues with this scope:

The eye box is pretty unforgiving. There is a lot of extra information displayed in the scope image, and I find that if I don’t keep my cheek weld solid, I can’t really see any of it.

That said, it’s still a lot more comfortable to use than my other digital scopes.

Special Features

ATN has put a lot of cool features into this scope.

One of the most advanced things this scope has is the Smart Rangefinder.

The scope will take two measurements from the reticle and calculate the distance to target. Then the range is displayed right there on screen. No more guesses.

The X-Sight also has a built-in Ballistic Calculator. Program in your weapon profile and environment data like wind and humidity using the smartphone app, and then the scope will adjust your point of impact accordingly.

Also, the X-Sight has full HD video streaming capabilities, and automatically records video when you start shooting. This is great for tracking a running target after you take your shot.

Basically, this scope does all the work for you!

Durability and Battery

This scope is pretty durable, as far as digital scopes go.

It’s water resistant, weather resistant, and tested to operate at temperatures from -40 to 130 degrees.

The tube is made from high-grade aluminum, and it’s fogproof and shockproof too.

The battery life on this scope is great. You can run the scope for 18 hours without having to recharge it. This is perfect for long hunts, or trips where you don’t have access to a charger between hunts.

Zeroing

Zeroing was incredibly quick.

This scope has a One Shot Zero system. All I had to do was take a shot, adjust my point of impact, and I was good to go.

I’ve put hundreds of rounds through my Mini-14 with this scope mounted, and have had no problems with the zero straying.

Magnification

The X-Sight gives you 5-20x variable magnification.

I’ve noticed that the image tends to pixelate a little bit at the higher magnifications, but not enough to obscure my target. I can easily shoot targets up to 800 yards out using this scope.

Also, this scope uses a smooth zoom wheel rather than buttons. I prefer the way this feels versus my other digital scopes. It acts like a traditional glass scope, which is more what I’m used to.

Mounting & Accessories

The ATN X-Sight includes a picatinny rail with standard rings, plus one L-shaped ring to use with accessories. It also includes an infrared illuminator and a sun shade, so right out of the box, it’s ready for both night and day shooting.

I highly recommend getting the ABL Laser Rangefinder from ATN.

It attaches right onto the side of the scope, and automatically communicates with the scope via Bluetooth. The built-in Smart Rangefinder is nice, but for hogs, you’ll want to be able to instantly get a range on your target.

The X-Sight also ships with a nice neoprene scope cover, but it doesn’t include any lens caps. I recommend Butler Creek Flip Caps (Objective Size 48, Eyepiece Size 02.)

Is the ATN X-Sight Pro 5-20x worth it?

Overall, the X-Sight Pro packs advanced digital features into a streamlined scope that resembles more traditional glass scopes.

It’s got:

• 4k Ultra HD image
• Comfortable eye relief
• Customizable digital mil dot reticle
• Automatic video recording and streaming
• Built in Smart Rangefinder and Ballistic Calculator
• Night Vision Mode with included infrared illuminator

Plus, the scope is covered by ATN’s 2 Year Warranty.

So if you want the best night vision scope for hog hunting at night that’s easy and comfortable to use, look no further than the X-Sight Pro. Those hogs will never see you coming!

Need a good scope for your .22-250? Check out our top picks.

4. Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 Thermal Riflescope: Best Thermal Scope for Hog Hunting

The Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 is a fantastic thermal riflescope.

In fact, it’s the best thermal scope you can buy for hog hunting.

(If you’re unsure if you need a thermal or NV scope, read this article.)

Pulsar crammed a ton of hi-tech features into this scope, and managed to keep the price much lower than their competitors, too.

Want to know if the Trail 2 LRF is for you? Read on to find out.

Image Clarity & Reticle

The Trail 2 LRF produces one of the clearest digital images I’ve ever seen in a scope.

Usually, when I use a thermal scope, I can tell when I’m aiming at heat, but I can’t tell what that heat is coming from. Most thermal scopes just produce a blob of white.

But the Trail 2 LRF shows every detail. I can clearly see and identify what I’m aiming at, whether it be a hog or a coyote. This is because of the advanced thermal sensor in the scope, which can detect heat up to 2000 yards away.

In fact, this scope has such a clear image, I can use it in full daylight with no problems at all.

Speaking of range, the Trail 2 LRF has a built-in laser rangefinder that displays the range to target right there in the display. No more guessing the distance to the hog — just raise your rifle, aim and shoot.

This scope also lets you swap between white-hot and black-hot modes. Between that and the 13 different reticles, I was able to find the perfect settings for every shooting scenario.

Recording and Streaming

The Trail 2 is so advanced that it connects wirelessly to your smartphone or tablet for easy recording and streaming of your hunts.

If you want to show off your hunts on YouTube or Twitch, this is definitely the scope for you!

I personally like the recording feature because I’m not the best shot in the world, and sometimes my target will try and run before falling. The recording makes it really easy to spot the location and see which direction the hog started running in.

This makes it easier and quicker to find your game after the kill.

And you don’t have to remember to press the “Record” button. The Trail 2 detects when you fire a shot and automatically records from there, so you never have to worry about missing the action.

Recorded footage is stored in the scope and can be easily downloaded to your smart device or computer once you get back home. Reliving a great hunt has never been easier!

Eye Relief

The eye relief is right under 2 inches.

This took me a little getting used to, but once I got a feel for the extended eyepiece, I had no issues at all maintaining eye box.

2 inches is a little closer than I would normally mount a scope, but you need a close relief with thermal scopes. I’ve never had any issues with scope bite and I’ve used this scope on multiple calibers of rifles.

Durability

With the Pulsar Trail 2 having so much tech, I thought this thing would be fragile.

But was I wrong.

The Trail 2 LRF was recoil tested by Pulsar for up to 12 gauge/.357 H&H. I can confirm that first hand.

Plus, the scope can be submerged in up to three feet of water and still be completely fine.

The scope is fogproof, dustproof, and frost resistant as well. So you can take this scope into any field conditions and not have to worry about breaking it.

Zeroing

Zeroing was insanely easy.

The Trail 2 uses the Pulsar “One Shot Zero” function to ensure quick and easy zeroing right out of the box.

And I’ve taken mine on dozens of hunts and had no issues with the scope straying from zero at all.

Plus, this scope allows you to save up to three different profiles, and each of these profiles has up to five range settings that you can save.

This means that you can set this scope up for 3 different rifles and swap it out between them without having to do any major settings changes.

I love this feature because it means I can zero my Trail 2 on my three favorite rifles (ex: go from my AR to my M1A) and pick which one I want to use on the night of the hunt.

Magnification

You get 1.6-12.8x magnification from this scope.

I’ve noticed no image quality issues at all even when I zoom in to max.

Also, you can either use 2x steps or zoom smoothly. The 2x steps are nice and quick for when you need to zoom in on your target fast, and the smooth zoom is nice for when I have time to be more precise.

This is great for hog hunting, when your targets could come out of the treeline at almost any range without warning.

My favorite feature on the Trail 2 though is the Picture in Picture Zoom. Picture in Picture mode puts the zoomed in image in the top portion of the display while still showing the whole zoomed out image behind it.

The Picture in Picture mode makes it really easy to zoom in on your target for a good shot while still being able to keep an eye on your background. You don’t want to miss your hog and hit some cattle because you couldn’t see it grazing just behind your target!

Accessories

The Trail 2 LRF comes with some great accessories out of the box.

It’s got a carrying case, USB cord, cleaning cloth, and a battery charger. (Also, even though it comes with its own charger, I’ve found that any micro-USB charger will work!)

The scope also comes with a weaver rail and hex wrench for mounting to your rifle of choice.

And no need for flip caps — the Trail 2 already has one built-in on the objective lens.

Is the Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 Thermal Riflescope worth it?

All in all, the Pulsar Trail 2 is an incredible thermal riflescope at about half the price of the competition.

It’s got:

• 1.6-12.8x magnification
• Picture in Picture mode
• Built-in laser rangefinder
• Detailed, clear thermal image
• 13 different digital reticles to choose from
• Easy automatic recording and streaming to your smart device

And if all that wasn’t enough, the Trail 2 LRF comes with Pulsar’s 3 Year Warranty.

If you want to feel like the Predator on your next hunt and need the best thermal scope for hog hunting, then the Pulsar Trail 2 is for you.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best scope for hog hunting guide.

So as a recap:

If you’re looking for the best hog hunting scope, get the Leupold FX-II Ultralight 2.5×20.

Looking for the best scope for fast target acquisition? Choose Trijicon ACOG 3.5×35.

How about the best night vision scope for hog hunting? Then opt-in for ATN X-Sight 4K Pro 5-20x.

Lastly, if you are looking for the best thermal scope for hog hunting, I’d recommend Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 Thermal Riflescope.

That said, you can’t go wrong with any of these options. After all, I have hand and torture tested all the above scopes, and proved to be reliable.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which rifle scope will you pick for your hog hunting?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

The Chrysler/Dodge/Ram 5.7L and 6.4L HEMI engines power similar cars and trucks. This makes the comparison common as many wonder which engine is the best fit. Ultimately, 6.4 and 5.7 HEMI engines likely both have plenty to offer for most owners. With two great engine options it can be hard to pull the trigger but worry not. In this guide, we compare 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI engine specs, reliability, performance, price, and more.

*5.7L and 6.4L HEMI engines are also known as the 345 HEMI and 392 HEMI, respectively. These numbers represent the engines displacement in cubic inches. We may refer to the engines by these names in this article.

Dodge HEMI Engine Specs

Below is a chart showing specs for the 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI V8 engines:

Specs for the 5.7 and 6.4 HEMI engine are pretty straight-forward. They share many things in common especially when looking at similar year engines. Anyway, both share their V8 HEMI pushrod design with 2 valves per cylinder. 345 HEMI and 392 HEMI engines also both use cast iron blocks with aluminum heads.

We’ll avoid spoiling all of the details regarding horsepower and torque for now. Of course, the 6.4 HEMI is the more capable engine. Its larger displacement and output give it the edge. There is more to look at regarding 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI power and torque curves. This topic will come up in a few sections when we discuss performance.

*2009+ 5.7 HEMI engines went through a fairly big update. MDS and variable valve timing were two of the major updates. 6.4 HEMI engines use this technology, too. Point is – the older 345 HEMI’s are a bit different since they lack this tech.

What Cars Use These Engines?

6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI engines are in the following years and models:

As shown above – the 5.7 HEMI is an engine option in a few models that do not offer the 6.4L engine. It’s also the older engine dating back to 2003 while the 6.4 HEMI didn’t come out until 2011. However, Chrysler did offer the 6.4L since 2007 as a crate engine with the name 392 HEMI.

Anyway, the common them is that the 5.7 is a base engine in many models with the R/T badge. On the other hand, 6.4 HEMI engines often receive the SRT8, SRT, and 392 Scat Pack designations.

5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI V8 Performance

Writing engine comparison guides can be challenging. Most engines are found in various models and years – as with these two HEMI engines. The following theme will apply to much of this article: it’s tough to get specific on a model and year basis. As such, we won’t be diving into 0-60, 1/4 mile times, or other specific performance factors.

There is still plenty to talk about when it comes to 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI performance, though. The 6.4 HEMI generally offers an extra 75-100 horsepower over the 5.7 engine. Thanks to larger displacement the 392 is also good for an extra 60-80 lb-ft. Low-end torque is also about 70 lb-ft more than the 5.7 further widening the gap between the two. However, power and torque are a smaller difference on Ram trucks as the 392 truck version is tuned for better economy and towing.

There’s no replacement for displacement. Clearly, this saying holds true in the 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI comparison. These engines share similar design and tech, and the larger displacement HEMI simply has the edge. That’s not to say the 5.7L V8 is a slouch by any means. Rather, if you’re looking for all-out performance or towing then the 6.4 HEMI is the clear pick.

Winner: 6.4L HEMI

Aftermarket Potential

Bear with a few duplicate comments here as it’s the same concept as above. Larger displacement takes the win when it comes to tuning, modding, and aftermarket performance potential. If power and performance are the end goal the Dodge 6.4L V8 is our pick.

We looked at similar mileage 2016 Dodge R/T Challengers with the 5.7 HEMI vs the 6.4 HEMI R/T Scat Pack. The difference in price ranges from about $5,000 to $10,000 with the 392 HEMI the more expensive option (as you likely guessed).

Buy a 345 HEMI, use the left over money on upgrades, and you can certainly end up with the more powerful engine. Now, it’s fair to point out some of the many counter arguments here. Add the same mods to a 6.4L V8 and it will be more powerful. Also, no matter how many upgrades you add to the 5.7 HEMI it will never be the 6.4L.

Aside from all of that – both of these engines have plenty of aftermarket support. It’s not hard to find what you’re looking for whether you choose the 345 or 392 engine. Don’t miss out on our best 5.7 HEMI upgrades and 6.4 HEMI upgrade guides if you’re looking for more info.

Winner: 6.4 HEMI

Dodge 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI Reliability

Reliability is an easy subject for me to discuss. I wrote in-depth articles about reliability and common engine problems for each engine; the links are just below in the next section for those wanting to learn more. In this article we’ll just scrape the surface and discuss some of the basics.

The 6.4 and 5.7 HEMI both offer good reliability overall. As with any engine, they’re prone to their share of problems and failures. We think both engines deserve average to above average remarks for reliability. Don’t expect Honda or Toyota-like maintenance and repairs, though.

Keep in mind we’re talking about performance engines. Repairs tend to be a bit more expensive when problems do occur. Basic maintenance items can also be pricier.

Which one is better, though? It’s impossible to say for sure. It’s likely the 6.4 HEMI vs 5.7 HEMI will offer similar reliability. Most of it simply comes down to maintenance and luck of the draw. Some 6.4L engines hold up beyond 300,000 miles while others die much sooner. The same can be said for the Dodge 345 too.

Winner: Tie

Engine Problems

Issues between the two engines are pretty similar. Keep in mind – problems may appear worse or more common on the 5.7L V8. It’s the older and more popular engine on the road. As such, there’s more info out there for the 5.7 HEMI which can make problems seem more widespread. On the contrary, there are more high mileage 345’s out there.

Ultimately, both engines share many of the same common problems – such as the HEMI Multi-Displacement System (MDS). As stated previously, these engines offer similar reliability and which one is better often comes down to maintenance and some luck of the draw. Anyway, check out the below articles for more information on some common engine problems:

345 HEMI Engine Problems

392 HEMI Engine Problems

5.7 vs 6.4 Hemi Price

In the section about aftermarket performance we touched on 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI price briefly. The price difference when looking at similar model, trim, age, mileage, etc remains around the $5,000 to $10,000 mark. It doesn’t always hold true since there can be other factors that affect price. Regardless, the 5.7 HEMI is generally the cheaper option.

Additionally, 5.7 HEMI engines have been around since 2003. There isn’t a way to make a fair comparison with the 6.4L V8 in this case. It just means the 5.7 is the budget friendly option even if it means buying an older car. The age and higher production also do the 345 HEMI favors when it comes to parts, replacement engines, so on.

Winner: 5.7 HEMI

345 vs 392 HEMI Fuel Economy/MPG

This is a pretty quick topic since it’s impossible to get extremely specific. 5.7 vs 6.4 HEMI fuel economy depends on many individual factors. Year, model, drivetrain, conditions, driving habit, etc all play major roles. That said, the 5.7 HEMI engine will deliver better fuel economy if all else is equal.

There are situations where the 6.4 HEMI actually provides better MPG than the 5.7L engine, though. Does the Dodge car or truck have MDS technology? Some Dodge 5.7 HEMI engines have this tech while others do not. A 392 equipped with MDS vs a 345 without MDS is a different story.

Nonetheless, we could go on all day debating which engine in which configuration provides better fuel economy. However, the point remains. The smaller 345 cubic inch engine should deliver better MPG – all else equal.

Winner: 5.7 HEMI

Towing Capacity

Vague concepts continue when it comes to 6.4 vs 5.7 HEMI towing capacity. There are too many configurations that affect towing as much or more than the specific engine. Anyway, you guessed it. Dodge 6.4 HEMI’s are the better option when it comes to towing.

Not only does it offer more power and torque, but it’s also better tuned for towing. Low-end torque is a big improvement on the 392 cubic inch engine. It’s generally going to offer the most towing capacity and pull similar weights with more ease. Although, the 5.7 V8 isn’t a slouch and may be more than enough for many.

Winner: 6.4 HEMI

Dodge 345 vs 392 HEMI Summary

Chrysler, Dodge, and Ram offer the 6.4L and 5.7L HEMI engines in many similar models. The engines also share similar design and technology. It makes for a common discussion and comparison between the two. Picking the right engine for you can also be complicated since both engines have plenty to offer.

The saying, “there’s no replacement for displacement” holds true here. Dodge 6.4 V8 HEMI engines simply offer more performance and towing vs the 5.7 HEMI. The 5.7 HEMI takes the win for price, parts availability, and fuel economy. They’re both pretty reliable engines, so that’s a wash.

In summary, if all-out performance or towing capacity is your goal then the 6.4 HEMI is likely the best choice. Those who want a great overall balance of performance, MPG, towing, and price will find joy in the 5.7L V8. Either way, we believe it’s hard to go wrong with the 345 or 392 HEMI engines.

What’s your experience with these engines? Are you considering one?

Leave a comment and let us know!

How To Certify a State Record Freshwater Fish

1. The angler must have a valid Florida freshwater fishing license or be exempt pursuant to s. 379.353, F.S.
2. The fish must be caught legally using an active hook-and-line method (bush hooks, snatch hooks, set lines, trotlines, etc. are excluded) in fresh waters of Florida.
3. If possible, keep the fish alive. If it is not possible to keep the fish alive, place it in ice water. Avoid freezing the fish because it will dehydrate causing it to lose weight. More information on how to handle and care for fish can be found at: https://www.trophycatchflorida.com/trophycare.aspx
4. Before contacting the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC), weigh the fish to determine if a possible state record exists and if possible, take a photograph of the fish on a scale with the weight clearly visible.
5. Make arrangements with the FWC to have the fish species certified by an FWC fisheries biologist, and to have an FWC employee witness the official weighing, on a certified scale and take measurements. When certifying the fish species as a largemouth bass, an FWC fisheries biologist does not have to be physically present, and the species can be certified by photograph or video, so long as an FWC employee witnesses official weighing and documentation.

FWC Regional Offices:

Northwest Region (850) 265-3676Northeast Region (352) 732-1225North Central Region (386) 758-0525Southwest Region (863) 648-3200South Region (561) 625-5122

1. Fill out a Freshwater State Record Fish application and have the application signed by an FWC fisheries biologist. Applications can be obtained from local FWC offices or on the internet at www.MyFWC.com/fishing.
2. Mail the completed application to: Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, Record Fish Program, 620 South Meridian Street, Tallahassee, FL 32399-1600.

Measurement Standards

1. Measure the fish’s total length and girth to the nearest one-quarter inch. Total length is measured with the mouth closed and tail fin pinched together. Girth is the measurement around the widest part of the fish (see illustration).
2. Weight shall be determined on a scale certified by the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services. A certified scale must meet the requirements of the National Institute of Standards and Technology and is approved by the National Type Evaluation Program. Weighing shall be done by an FWC employee and recorded to two decimal places.
3. To replace an existing record, versus tying one, the weight difference must EXCEED the following: (i) nearest one-quarter ounce (0.02 pounds) for fish up to five pounds, (ii) to the nearest one-half ounce (0.03 pounds) for fish more than five pounds and up to 10 pounds, and (iii) to the nearest one ounce (0.06 pounds) for fish more than 10 pounds.

If your fish does not qualify as a state record, the Big Catch Angler Recognition Program rewards anglers who catch a memorable-sized fish. Qualifying anglers receive a colorful citation showing the type of fish caught and a window sticker to proudly display their prowess. To qualify, the fish must be legally caught and exceed the specified minimum length or weight. The catch must be witnessed, and a Big Catch form completed. Details can be found on applications available at many tackle stores, FWC offices, in the Freshwater Regulations Summary, or on the internet at http://bigcatchflorida.com.

More information is provided about the various species on our Freshwater Fishes of Florida pages.

* Uncertified record. Strong evidence exists, but not all the reporting requirements were met.** Following genetic and other analyses, it is now believed that redeye bass do not exist in Florida. This record was certified prior to those studies being conducted.

If you learned to fish as a child, your earliest memories, much like ours, were watching a bobber with great anticipation waiting for it to abruptly disappear under the slick calm waters on an early morning fishing trip with a loved one. I’m 51 years old now, and watching a fishing bobber go under still gives me a childlike thrill. Nostalgia not withstanding, a fishing float is a great way to present not only live baits but also small artificials to fish in a natural way.

Fly anglers use small floats and indicators to let them know when a trout has sucked in a nymph in current runs that you won’t see or feel. Crappie anglers will slip float a jig in timber to catch fish that are reluctant to move much. Whatever your preferred method of fishing, knowing the best fishing bobbers and where to use each one will help you present your baits better and catch more fish.

OUR LIST OF BEST FISHING BOBBERS

• Best Weighted Spring Bobber: Thill Premium Weighted Float
• Best Slip Floats: Thill Pro Series Slip Float
• Best Rattling Float: Bett’s Mr. Crappie Rattlin Pear
• Best Weighted Clip Bobber: Bett’s Mr. Crappie Weighted Bobber
• Best Crappie Bobber: Thill Crappie Cork
• Best Catfish Float: CJ’s Catfish Float
• Best Panfish Quick Floats: Leland’s Lures Trout Magnet E-Z Floats

Best Weighted Spring Bobber: Thill Premium Weighted Float

The Thill name and premium fishing floats are synonymous. Regardless of the species you chase, you’ve likely found yourself looking at one of the many versions of Thill floats to float your offering. Arguably their most popular model because it’s simple, effective and well designed, the Thill Premium Weighted Float features the spring or slip versions but we think the spring bobber is the best no-nonsense float for a variety of species of fish.

Pull the spring down, run the line into the notch and let the spring loose and you’re good to go. We often use this bobber in the spring when casting to crappie in shallow water with jigs we want to work ultra slow around shallow cover that might be spooky (like when they are moving up to spawn). These high quality bobbers come 2 to a pack for $3.99.

Buy at Amazon

Buy at Bass Pro

Best Rattling Float: Bett’s Mr. Crappie Rattlin Pear

We got into using a rattling bobber with tungsten bluegill bugs this spring to chase some of our personal best bluegills and shellcrackers. The Mr. Crappie Rattlin Pear is a small bobber that attaches quickly to help make casting very light jigs a little easier and letting you slow down your retrieve and add pauses you can’t do otherwise.

I took some of my biggest bluegills and panfish on this bobber this year because I felt the rattle called fish in that were curious and then they found the bug. This was especially productive for me in laydown trees in the spring and early summer.

The Rattlin Pear comes in a three sizes from 7/8 inch to 1 1/4 inch for bluegills and crappie alike and would probably work for trout and wallyes as well.

Buy at Bass Pro

Buy at Amazon

Best Slip Floats: Thill Pro Series Slip Float

Another staple in the slip float arena, the Thill Pro Series Slip Float comes in many different sizes and diameters as well as weighted and unweighted. These floats work really well when you want to cast to fish that are in deeper water and you need the rig to be compact on the cast but then sink down to the fish and sit in one place over deeper water. From 1/2 inch diameter up to 1 inch in diameter. These floats work for a ton of species and applications where you want to float fish a little deeper. They are made of premium balsa to ensure a long last bobber that always floats well and is easily pulled under by the right size prey.

Buy at FishUSA

Buy at Amazon

Buy at Tackle Warehouse

Buy at Bass Pro

Best Weighted Clip Bobber: Bett’s Mr. Crappie Snappers Float

There is something to be said for having a bobber that works quick and easy when you suddenly need to change your presentation or need to improve your casting distance because of the wind without having to upsize your lure and speed up your retrieves. A clip on bobber is very handy to have. I keep several in my travel bags and boat because I’ve had lots of times panfishing where I wished I could add a float to a jig to slow my presentation, get a little more distance or make a bait present more naturally in current and wind.

The Bett’s Mr. Crappie Weighted Bobber casts like a rock, attaches quickly and easily and won’t crack or fill up with water. It’s a foam style bobber that comes in a few different sizes for bluegill and crappies alike. I’ve even used the larger ones on other species like catfish. They come two to a pack for $2.29.

Buy at Bass Pro

Buy at Amazon

Best Crappie Bobber: Thill Crappie Cork

The Thill Crappie Cork is the do-it-all bobber for crappie fishermen. It’s made to be the only float you need for crappie. It comes in multiple sizes, offers both spring clip and slip cork design with a bobber stop already built into the stem. It’s the ultimate float for versatility and convenience for serious anglers. Always good to have a couple in your bag. Weight is printed on the float for convenience. These floats start at $2.49.

Buy at FishUSA

Buy at Bass Pro

Buy at Amazon

Best Catfish Float: CJ’s Catfish Float

We’ve talked about these floats before in our Kayak Catfishing feature as these are a dynamite way to present bait to channel catfish and blue catfish alike. Check out our feature to see how these are employed. But these unique floats feature a long 14-inch stem and a rigging mechanism that makes them a slip float but your line runs on the outside. This float is designed to let you know a cat is biting without them feeling any resistance so you have the drop on them everytime. These floats excel for drift fishing and that’s why they have become the staple among serious catfishermen. They come 2 to a pack for $8.99.

Buy at BassPro

Best Quick Float Indicators: Leland’s Lures Trout Magnet E-Z Floats

Sometimes you just want to throw quick small float on an ultralight setup to float your jig or slow your presentation and without having to completely rerig, it’s nice when you can use something like the Trout Magnet E-Z Floats, that use a slit style bobber with a peg to pinch your line in place on the bobber. You can add them quickly to your ultralight offerings to keep your bait up and out of cover and off the bottom as you fish through shallow areas with tiny lures. They are made of a high-float foam, come 4 to a pack in high viz colors for $1.87.

Buy at FishUSA

Buy at Amazon

Buy at BassPro.com

TYPES OF FISHING BOBBERS AND FLOATS

Fishing bobbers and floats vary in size, materials and how you connect them to your line. There are basically three ways to connect a bobber to your line that include the following:

• Clip on
• Pinch/peg
• Slip on with a stopper

As you’ve seen going through this list, bobbers can ether be clipped on with spring loaded clips or external springs or rubber sleeves. Floats can also be pinched on with a peg where you either run the line through the bobber or put it through a slit in the side of the bobber and then use a peg to pinch the bobber onto your line. Or you can use a slip style bobber where your line runs through the bobber after your slide or tie a bobber stop onto your line above it. Each of the three ways to connect have a time and place and often convenience and depth are the determining factors.

BEST BOBBER BRANDS

With bobbers, you can get by with a cheaper bobber in a pinch but their are a few brands that are the best at making specific application floats. Brands like Thill, Betts and Eagle Claw have some of the widest selections of bobbers to fit all types of fish and fishing applications. There are a lot of other good brands that don’t have as diverse a selection but also offer great bobbers like Rod-N-Bob, Raven, Sheffield, Northland, and Lunkerhunt. You can find a very good selection of floats at FishUSA.com

BOBBER FISHING SETUPS

When fishing with bobbers, anglers often like to use lighter lines and either spinning or spin casting setups. I spent a lot of time fishing small bobbers on tungsten jigs for panfish this year on spinning rod and reels with 4-pound line as well as BFS baitcasting gear with the same light lines like 4-pound mono and 8-pound braid. With the bigger bobbers you can go up in size and weighted bobbers also allow you to use larger line sizes without sacrificing castability.

BEST BOBBER AND FLOAT MATERIALS

Balsa and foam are probably the two most common types of fishing bobbers along with plastic. The first two will hold up a lot better than the latter. Plastic tends to eventually crack or wear out and let water in which makes it stop floating. Balsa will still float if it breaks, splinters or loses pieces.