Jeremiah Wood, a biologist for the State of Maine, works through various aspects of fur trapping in this second part of his guest series. (Read part one, Five Reasons to Reconsider Trapping, here.)

For the uninitiated, trapping can seem disconcertingly complex. Trappers target a wide variety of fur-bearing animals all across the landscape, using very specialized tools and equipment on the trapline. Just look into the bed of a trapper’s pickup truck and try figuring out which item does what and where it’s used. The jumble of gear is enough to make your head spin. But once you figure it out, traps and their use are really not that complicated.

Traps can be broken down into three basic types: footholds, body-grips and hunting snares. Each is distinct from the others and has its own unique purpose on the trapline.

Foothold Traps

Foothold traps have been around almost since trapping began. Though some are complex, all footholds operate on a simple premise: the target animal steps on a pan in the trap’s center, tripping a trigger and causing spring-loaded jaws to close and grip the animal’s foot. Foothold traps are the most traditional, popular and effective trap used today. Every fur-bearing species can be caught with foothold traps and they come in a wide variety of styles, shapes and sizes.

The three main types of foothold traps are categorized by the springs that strengthen them. Long spring traps are the traditional footholds constructed with long, flat steel springs that power the jaws closed. Jump traps are powered by a single, short, flat steel spring situated underneath the jaws. Coil spring traps are a modern version of the jump trap, instead using coiled music wire springs to lift levers that power the jaws shut.

Foothold traps have a wide variety of applications on the trapline, from catching marten in the wilds of Arctic Alaska to beaver trapping in the swamps of Louisiana and most places in between. One significant benefit of foothold traps is that, when used properly, they allow for the unharmed release of any non-target animals. Foothold traps are the most common tool used to trap predators like foxes and coyotes, and are commonly used in wildlife management applications. In fact, footholds have been critical to the success of numerous furbearer studies and relocation efforts by state and federal wildlife biologists throughout the country.

Body-grip Traps

The body-grip trap, often referred to as the ‘Conibear,’ was revolutionized by trapper and inventor Frank Conibear in the 1950’s. It was offered as an alternative to the foothold trap in situations where a quick, humane kill of the captured animal was desired. The basic design of the trap includes two square jaws made of round steel in a box-shaped design, powered by one or two springs of the same material. When the springs are compressed, the jaws form an opening for an animal to enter, tripping a trigger in the opening when it travels through. The jaws then close shut, proving an almost instant kill.

Because of their lethal design body-grip traps aren’t useful in all situations, especially near civilization, where there’s potential to catch the neighbor’s dog or cat. They are most commonly used in water trapping, particularly for beaver, mink and muskrats, in wilderness trapping far from the beaten path and in other situations when precautions are taken to avoid non-targets. The body-grip trap was truly an innovation that filled a need in the trapping world and has greatly enhanced trappers’ ability to address animal welfare issues and capture some furbearers far more effectively.

Snares

While it appears the most simple, the snare may just be the most complex tool in the trapping industry. Type of cable and wire, diameter, orientation, breaking strength, lock types, stops, swivels, breakaways and a number of other components make snares incredibly customizable. If you know what you’re doing, you can create just the right snare for most any trapping situation.

Snares can also be fairly controversial, due to their past reputation for catching non-target animals. But advancements in snare technology have made much of that controversy a thing of the past, and many states are expanding snaring opportunities for trappers who know how to use them right. For instance, snares once would catch the occasional deer. Using a stop that limits loop size closure eliminates deer capture. When a large animal like a mountain lion or elk is captured, a breakaway allows them to power out of the snare, breaking it open and freeing them from capture.

Traditional snares used to kill some non-target animals. Using a relaxing lock instead of a kill-type lock allows a snare to hold an animal gently, effectively rendering the snare something we now call a “cable restraint.” In other situations where a quick kill is desired, springs and poles can be used to make that happen incredibly effectively. What was once a simple wire loop has now transformed into one of the most useful and adaptable tools at a trapper’s disposal.

Between footholds, body-grips and snares, a trapper’s arsenal can seem pretty complex—and perhaps it needs to be. Like everything else, trapping has changed with the times. Advances in technology have continued to make traps more efficient and effective, helping trappers continue to responsibly harvest wild fur. And if you’re looking to get into trapping, these advancements have made for a great set of tools to help start the journey.

Jeremiah is a biologist with the State of Maine and runs Trapping Today, a website dedicated to providing information and entertainment to the modern trapper. Find more from him at www.trappingtoday.com.

header image: Day Six Outdoors

Swans are often seen as symbols of grace and beauty, but can these beautiful birds kill you?

The short answer is no. But swan attacks could lead to accidental deaths. Although swans are not typically aggressive, they can and will attack humans if they feel threatened or if their nest or young are in danger.

In this post, we’ll explore the potential dangers of swans and what you can do to stay safe around these majestic creatures.

From their surprising strength to their territorial nature, we’ll take a closer look at the “dangerous beauty” of swans. So whether you’re a bird lover, a nature enthusiast, or just someone curious about these fascinating animals, read on to learn more about the potential dangers of swans and how to avoid them.

Are swans dangerous?

Swans belong to the Anatidae family which also includes geese and ducks.

Swans are known to be graceful and elegant birds, but they can also be territorial and protective of their nests. While they generally do not actively seek to attack people, they may become aggressive if they feel threatened or if their young are in danger.

The swan is a giant bird and if it perceives a person as a potential threat, it may charge or chase them and even use its wings and beak to defend itself.

It is important to remember that swans are wild animals and should be respected as such. These waterfowl should not be fed by hand or approached too closely, particularly during breeding season when they are more likely to be defensive. Keep a safe distance from their nests and cygnets.

Generally, it is best to observe these beautiful creatures from a safe distance and not interfere with their natural behavior. While attacks on humans are not common, it is always best to err on the side of caution and respect the animals’ space.

Why do swans attack people?

Swans are graceful, attractive creatures that grace lakes, ponds, and other bodies of water with their presence. Despite their delicate appearance, these birds can turn aggressive when threatened or disturbed.

Nesting swans attack humans for various reasons, including territorial defense and protection of their young.

Swans such as mute swans are territorial animals, fighting tooth and nail to protect their nesting sites from any perceived threat, especially during the nesting season. These threats include humans approaching the swan too closely, especially when it is nesting or guarding its young cygnets.

When a swan perceives a human threat, it may hiss, honk violently, and even charge to frighten the human away from the swan nest or swan territory. If a person does not move quickly enough or tries to touch the cygnets, the swan may bite them to protect its brood.

Mistaken identification can sometimes lead to aggression toward humans. Swans are fiercely protective of their species, and they may confuse another bird species for one of their own, leading to assaults on people if they go too close.

The same is true for anything resembling a predator, such as dogs and other land mammals, whose movements resemble those of a coyote or fox attempting to steal eggs or prey on young birds. In these circumstances, the swan responds instinctively in defense and will attack if it feels threatened or endangered by what it considers an intruder.

Swans can also become hostile due to humans feeding them too much food near their habitat. This practice promotes overpopulation and rivalry for resources among the birds, which leads to aggressive behavior toward humans who approach them, anticipating more food.

Overfeeding the birds causes them to exhibit more defensive behavior and greater territoriality to preserve viable food sources from other birds that may compete for nutrition.

It is noteworthy that most reports of swans hurting people occur when the birds where antagonized or provoked. Additionally, swan injuries aren’t often serious and most of the time it is the bird hitting the human’s leg or arm with its wing joint.

Interestingly, the bones in swan’s wings are thinner than human bones, therefore it is more possible for the swan to hurt itself than hurting the human if it decides to attack.

What are the signs that a swan is about to attack?

A swan will display a few common warning signs when it is about to attack. It’s important to be aware of these cues so that you can take steps to protect yourself and others from a potential attack.

The first sign of an impending swan attack is aggression. A swan may become aggressive if it feels threatened or like its territory is being invaded.

The swan might start hissing, honking, and flapping its wings while rushing toward the intruder. It may also lower its head and open its beak wide to appear larger and more intimidating when facing off with an intruder.

Other signs that a swan is preparing to attack include stalking behavior and loud vocalizations. If the bird begins following someone or something for an extended period, this could indicate that it wants the person or thing out of its territory.

The same goes for loud honking or hissing coming from the bird. These vocalizations are usually meant as warnings to escape the area immediately or face the consequences.

If the warning signs have been ignored or go unnoticed by those in the vicinity of a potentially hostile swan, it may resort to physical violence to eliminate the intruder.

The show of aggression can include biting with their long necks, stomping with their webbed feet, smashing into objects (like boats), and even flying directly at people’s heads as they attempt to scare them off.

It’s important to remember that while these behaviors are often associated with aggression, they can also indicate fear in some cases.

Swans may become scared if they feel trapped or threatened by humans who don’t understand their boundaries. This means that it’s important for anyone who encounters one of these animals in the wild to pay close attention and give them plenty of space before it turns into hostility. It is also important to not approach a swan especially if it has cygnets.

It is important for adults to teach small children not to pet swans and other waterfowl at the river or lake. While most attacks don’t often result in serious injuries, but they can might their arm broken by the animal.

What to do during a swan attack?

If a swan is attacking you, it is important to try and remain calm and still. Do not run or make sudden movements, as this can agitate the attacking swan further. Slowly back away, keeping your eyes on the swan and giving it space.

Try to put something between yourself and the mute swan, such as a tree or a trash can.

If the female or male swan continues to be aggressive, seek assistance from a park ranger or other authority figure.

Can swans break human bones?

Swans have been widely thought of as dangerous animals that can break human bones. While they’re capable of aggression and defending themselves, there are no known cases of swans using their power to break a human bone.

Swans are usually more interested in pecking for food than attacking humans. These birds can and will use their strength if threatened. However, they rarely need to go beyond threatening behavior to intimidate or protect themselves from danger.

Can a swan bite your fingers off?

No, swans such as black swans may be big birds but they can’t bite your fingers off. Even though their bite force isn’t as strong as other animals, the bite from their sharp beaks can be painful.

Did a swan attack result in human death?

It’s extremely rare for a swan attack to result in human death. However, in 2012, 37 year old Anthony Hensley from Illinois drowned while trying to get to shore after being attacked by a swan.

The number one question people ask us at outdoor shows and in the field is “how do you set up your decoys” or “why did you set your goose decoys up this way”. In fact I’d say it’s the number one reason people who book a guided goose or duck hunt with Maxxed Out Guides want to learn about while they’re in the field.

Unfortunately there isn’t one easy answer. Some hunters may say they set up there spread one particular way every time. You’ll hear hunters talk about and X, C, J spread which means their decoys are set to loosely resemble one of those letters. I strongly recommend not following that line of thinking. There are many times driving around that I’ll see decoy spreads that make a definitive, C, J or X in the field.

This causes two problems for you. First birds don’t naturally sit in fields in formations that resemble letters. Second birds see these unnatural looking spreads up and down the flyway. So not only are they unnatural geese get trained and accustomed to seeing them. This is typically not a combination for success.

However from my experience there is no one decoy spread that each and every day in the field. Some days you need more decoys. Some days you need fewer. There are days where your blinds will need to be at the front of your decoy spread and there are some days where they will need to be at the back.

There are many variables to this equation but the main variable, as it is with any hunt, is the weather. Birds simply look for different things in different weather conditions. The only thing that can tell you how to react to weather is experience and time in the field.

Are there days that a ‘letter shaped” spread will kill geese? Absolutely! However what you typically find on those types of days is most any style spread will kill birds.

So while there isn’t one “go to” spread there are a few things that can help you as you learn how to set your decoys.

First is the kill hole. You always want to try and manipulate the birds to attempt land or finish where you want them. Usually the kill hole is a spot in front of everyone that will create safe shooting lanes and opportunity for everyone to shoot. Typically we like to set up with the wind at our backs so the birds are finishing straight at us. However things like where the roost is in relation to the field, sun, wind and avaialble cover to hide your layout blinds doesn’t always make that possible. Hunting a strong cross wind is one of the more challenging scenarios you’ll run into when establishing the kill hole and is something that comes with experience. Either way though we typically like to give the birds lot of space so they have plenty of area to finish as they come into the spread. Sometimes you have to adjust things as the birds are finishing differently than you anticipated they would.

The second is never have your hide (where you put your layouts) dictated by your decoys. Your decoys should always be dictated by your hide. It does not matter how many decoys you have or realistic they are, if birds see your hide as they approach you are in for a long day in the field, because remember, these birds did not wake up this morning and head out to feed with the intention of giving you a good hunt. They want to live and if they see things out of the ordinary…they’re gone! So once you find your field and see what type of wind and sun your going to be dealing with the next day, your first priority should be to determine where the best place for your hide is, based on the information you have.

Once you have an idea of where your hide is, then you can start to strategize on how to set our decoys and where to position the kill hole.

Lastly, while I can’t give one shape that always works, look at your decoys when you’ve set them all. Remember these are wild animals your hunting. Does your spread look natural? Does it have a definitive edge (it shouldn’t)? Don’t be afraid to put smaller groups just outside of the main mass of decoys. You’ll frequently see a main mass of birds in a field and then smaller groups sprinkled around it. Create some randomness to your spread and don’t be afraid to try something new.

Happy Hunting!

Graham Greseth

Maxxed Out Guides Owner

www.GeeseFearUs.com

Reading Time: 6 minutes

Did you ever wonder what the biggest fish ever caught looked like? With all due respect to your imagination, we wouldn’t blame you for underestimating how impressive these beasts really were. Today, we’re looking at the 17 biggest fish ever caught.

For this list, we’ve only included fish that were officially approved as IGFA All-Tackle World Records. Over the years, there have been cases of people catching even bigger fish. These, however, were either caught by more than one person, or failed to meet other IGFA World Record requirements.

As you’d expect, most of these giants are from the Billfish and Shark families, but there are a few surprise entries, too.

You’ll notice that a lot of these records date back at least a few decades. Back in the day, catch and release was a rare sight, and fishing regulations weren’t nearly as strict. Still, each of the catches you’re about to see required incredible amounts of skill and dedication to pull off. They officially are the biggest fishing feats in history.

Without further ado, the 17 biggest fish ever caught are:

17. Goliath Grouper – 680 lb

Location: Fernandina Beach, FL

Date: May 20, 1961

Back in the day, Fernandina Beach was famous for its Goliath Grouper fishery. Up until 1990, anglers could harvest these critters, but with their population dwindling, regulators decided to ban their harvest. All in all, this record isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. Angler Lynn Joyner caught this 680 lb Goliath using a Spanish Mackerel.

16. Bull Shark – 697 lb 12 oz

Location: Malindi, Kenya

Date: March 24, 2001

Angler Ronald de Jager successfully caught this record-breaking Bull Shark by trolling a live Yellowfin Tuna. The catch broke the previous 1994 record by 12 ounces.

15. Dusky Shark – 764 lb

Location: Longboat Key, FL

Date: May 28, 1982

In 1982, Warren Girle pulled in this world record on a Bonito off Longboat Key, Florida.

14. Thresher Shark – 767 lb

Location: Bay of Islands, New Zealand

Date: February 26, 1983

David Hannah caught this Thresher using Kahawai Salmon. Catching a Thresher of any size requires a great deal of skill, because these monsters are known for bashing the hook and bait with their tail before moving in for the kill. This is why Hannah’s record is even more impressive.

13. Bigeye Thresher Shark – 802 lb

Location: Tutukaka, New Zealand

Date: February 8, 1981

A couple of years before David Hannah, Dianne North reeled in an even bigger Thresher. She trolled a Kahawai to hook the fish and then fought the beast for three hours and 45 minutes. What’s interesting is that the two catches occurred just over 30 miles away from each other.

12. Pacific Bluefin Tuna – 907 lb 6 oz

Location: Three Kings Islands, New Zealand

Date: February 19, 2014

Angler Donna Pascoe battled this Bluefin for over four hours, and in some very tough weather conditions. For her impressive catch, Ms. Pascoe received the IGFA Best World Record award for 2014.

11. Swordfish – 1,182 lb

Location: Iquique, Chile

Date: May 7, 1953

After more than 60 years, Lou Marron’s historic record still stands. It’s a testament to how people once used nothing but angling to catch the ocean’s most fearsome creatures. Lou caught the 14′ Swordfish by trolling a live Bonito.

10. Shortfin Mako Shark – 1,221 lb

Location: Chatham, Massachusetts

Date: July 21, 2001

Luke Sweeney caught this fearsome Mako during the Oak Bluffs Monster Shark Tournament in 2001. Luke was actually aboard the smallest boat in the tournament, a 24′ World Cat, when he broke the record. The fight lasted three hours, but ultimately, the Mako made it to the scales for weigh-ins.

9. Great Hammerhead Shark – 1,280 lb

Location: Boca Grande

Date: May 23, 2006

Charter captain Bucky Dennis usually fishes for Snook and Tarpon. However, according to him, when Tarpon come to Boca Grande, so do the Hammerheads. Bucky caught this 14.5′ Shark using a stingray for bait. The Hammerhead hauled his 23′ boat almost 12 miles out into the Gulf.

8. Sixgill Shark – 1,298 lb

Location: Ascension Island, British Overseas Territories

Date: November 21, 2002

Although you can find them worldwide, Sixgilled Sharks just aren’t fish you see everyday. Angler Clemens Rump caught this shark off the remote Ascension Island, in the middle of the Atlantic.

7. Pacific Blue Marlin – 1,376 lb

Location: Kaaiwi Point, Kona, Hawaii

Date: May 31, 1982

Trolling a kita lute, angler Jay de Beaubien managed to catch this Pacific Blue Marlin in under an hour! Jay’s record nearly fell in 2015, when an angler caught a 1,376 lb Blue Marlin off the very same Hawaiian coast.

6. Atlantic Blue Marlin – 1,402 lb 2 oz

Location: Vitoria, Brazil

Date: February 29, 1992

Fishing off Vitoria, Brazil angler Paulo Amorim caught this grander trolling a Molecraft lure.

5. Atlantic Bluefin Tuna – 1,496 lb

Location: Aulds Cove, Nova Scotia, Canada

Date: October 26, 1979

Nova Scotia is famous for its Bluefin Tuna fishery. Bluefins are much more strictly regulated these days, but regardless, Ken Fraser’s 1979 record still seems almost unbeatable.

4. Black Marlin – 1,560 lb

Location: Cabo Blanco, Peru

Date: August 4, 1953

Angling legend Alfred C. Glassell Jr. caught this enormous Black Marlin way back in 1953, making it one of the longest-standing IGFA World Records to date. This Marlin, along with a number of other fish Glassell caught, comprise a permanent exhibit in the Houston Museum of Natural Science.

3. Greenland Shark – 1,708 lb 9 oz

Location: Trondheimsfjord, Norway.

Date: October 17, 1987

Using a herring as bait, Norwegian angler Terje Nordvedt caught one of the biggest Sharks ever. This was one of the rare times people could see the longest living vertebrae on dry land. These sharks often live longer than 400 years!

2. Tiger Shark -1,785 lb 11 oz

Location: Ulladulla, Australia

Date: March 28, 2004

This record is a little controversial. When Kevin J. Clapson weighed his enormous Tiger shark in 2004, he thought he broke a 40-year-old record. However, since his catch was only 11 ounces heavier than Walter Maxwell’s catch from 1964, the ruling was that the record was tied.

1. White Shark – 2,664 lb

Location: Ceduna, Australia

Date: April 21, 1959

Alfred Dean’s 1959 record is by far the biggest fish ever caught and approved by the IGFA. Great White Sharks are a protected species almost everywhere these days, so it seems that Dean’s record is here to stay.

All of the catches on this list represent incredible feats by some of the best anglers on earth. With today’s conservation-oriented regulations, most of these won’t be broken any time soon. But that’s a not a bad thing – we’ll have more of these incredible creatures roaming the oceans for years to come. Besides, we’ll always have lists like this one to remind us of how impressive these beasts really are.

Your turn. Which of the catches on our list is the most impressive in your mind? Which of these records do you think anglers will break first? Let us know in the comments below.

If you know anything about yellow perch fishing, you probably know that they aren’t exactly “trophy fish”. They’re small, unassuming little fish, but they’re some of the most popular gamefish in North America for good reason.

Yellow perch are found across the northern United States, fight hard for their size, and will bite just about anything. That, combined with the fact that they school up by the hundreds, means that catching a cooler full of them isn’t out of reach. They’re a great fish for beginners or seasoned anglers, and you can catch them with minimal gear and tackle.

And you should try, because they’re arguably the best freshwater fish for the dinner table. They have a mild, almost sweet flavor, and a firm, flaky texture. They’re great for grilling and frying alike, and next time you go out on a food-fish mission, yellow perch should be at the top of the list.

In this article, I’ll go over the basics of how to catch these tasty fish. I’ll include things like required gear, the best baits and lures, and tips and tactics for filling the cooler.

Yellow perch (species name Perca flavescens) are a common carnivorous freshwater fish. They inhabit lakes, streams, and ponds, and live on a fairly varied diet. This can include zooplankton, insects, crayfish, and even freshwater mussels.

These days, yellow perch are very widespread. In most of the places they can be found, however, they’ve been introduced; their native range only includes the midwest and the northeastern United States. They’ve been so successful because they can tolerate a huge variety of water conditions and are prolific spawners.

Perch fall into the “panfish” category; basically, just fish that are just small enough to fit in a frying pan. Along with other panfish such as crappie and bluegill, perch make amazing table fare and are some of the most common fish for fish frys.

There are many panfish species, but perch are very easy to identify. This is mostly because there’s almost nothing else that looks like them in the lakes where they live.

As is always the case when fishing, it’s important to know your target.

Yellow perch are yellowish-gold in color with six to nine dark vertical bars on their body (earning them the nickname “striped perch,” though that name also refers to a saltwater species). They also have two dorsal fins, and their foremost dorsal fin has very tall spines relative to its body.

Perch are small fish (6-12 inches long) and weigh less than a pound. In most states, the record catch is between 2 and 3 pounds, so they do get bigger, but not by much.

The only fish that perch look similar to are walleye and sauger (which are in the same family), but walleye and sauger are generally much longer and have a more mottled color pattern compared to the yellow perch’s distinctive black bars.

Perch are great beginner fish because you don’t need much to catch them. That said, here’s the basic tackle you’ll need to get going.

Just about any rod can be used for perch fishing. But you’ll have better luck if you choose one with these qualities:

• 6 foot to 7 1/2 foot spinning rod (longer is better for longer casts, but not necessary)
• Light-Ultralight action (2-8 pound rating)
• Graphite composition (not necessary, but graphite is much more sensitive than fiberglass)

There are tons of great rods that fall into this category. If you’re looking at getting a new one, you can’t go wrong with the Ugly Stik GX2 (buy on Amazon here). It’s a tough rod with plenty of sensitivity at a great price.

Any 1000 series or 2000 series spinning reel will work well for perch. You’ll be using very light line, so going much larger than a 2000 series can impede casting ability. If you plan on deep jigging (like over 100 feet deep), then a 3000 series reel would be a safer bet for more line capacity.

For a quality spinning reel at a great price, it’s hard to beat the Okuma Ceymar or Pfleuger President. Both are around 50 bucks on Amazon, and they’re super smooth and durable for the price.

4-6 pound test monofilament line is all you need for perch. They aren’t particularly line-shy, though, so if you happen to have heavier line already spooled up it should work just fine.

Perch can be caught with a variety of different rigs, so you don’t need everything at one time. That said, it is nice to have a variety of options on hand to switch up your presentation if the fish aren’t biting.

For hooks, a size 4-8 baitholder hook works well. Perch have big mouths for their size, and larger hooks are generally less likely to be swallowed, so I lean on the larger side.

Perch fishing with jigs can also be very productive. 1/32 oz, 1/16 oz, and 1/8 oz round jigheads can all work, but I usually use 1/16 oz. As for colors, perch aren’t picky. I regularly use pink or chartreuse, but unpainted jigheads often work just as well. It’s not a bad idea to have a few color options so you can change up for water conditions.

If using sinkers (such as with a bobber), split-shot is all you need. Just use a large enough weight to keep your bait down and you’ll be good to go. A good variety pack will have a few different sizes so you can adjust as necessary.

Getting a perch to bite is pretty easy. But the key to catching perch is finding them; if you aren’t right where the fish are, you aren’t going to catch any.

Perch can live in a huge variety of water conditions and inhabit lakes, ponds, and streams. That said, they are most commonly found in large, relatively clear lakes with sandy or gravel bottoms. They prefer cool water, too, with 60-70 degree summer temperatures being ideal.

Yellow perch are a schooling species, and usually school up with fish of similar size. When you find a school, the bite will often be red-hot. They can be caught year-round, but where you’ll find perch depends on the time of year, so it’s important to understand their seasonal behavior.

Because of their schooling behavior and relatively easy bite, perch are hugely popular among ice anglers. During the winter, they can be just about anywhere, but large fish and large schools of perch usually prefer deeper water.

Concentrate on areas with any kind of structure. That could be downed trees, rip-rap rocky bottoms, or even just a drop-off where water depth changes quickly (like at my best local spot). Perch feed just off the bottom, so that’s where your bait or lure should be as well. If you have ice electronics, that’s great; if not, keep moving until you find them (a powered gas or electric auger helps a lot here).

Springtime is spawning time for perch. Starting when the water hits about 45 degrees, they’ll move out of their deep wintertime haunts into shallow water. They love shallow marshes, sloughs, and bays, so if you have these in your area, try them first. If not, fish the shallowest areas you can find; perch regularly spawn in 3-5 feet of water.

When fishing the shallows, concentrate on structure. This can be downed trees, docks, or even rocky outcrops, but the best spring perch habitat is weed beds. Fish the top of short grass or the edges of taller weeds like bulrushes and cattails, and you’ll probably find perch.

Throughout spring and into summer, perch move into deeper water as the water temperature increases. You’ll continue to find them in fairly shallow water (5-10 feet deep) up until the water hits about 70 degrees, but beyond that, they can be anywhere.

Perch fishing in the summer is therefore much easier if you have a fish finder. You should be able to locate schools, and once you do it’s a matter of getting your bait in front of them. Keep your boat directly above the school (using a drift sock or anchor as necessary), and drop down to their depth and jig vertically.

Schools are constantly on the move, so any deeper part of the lake can hold fish on a given day. When it comes to perch, keep moving until you find them, then stay on them from there.

Perch fishing is great because you can often use whatever rig is the most fun for you. You can catch them on a huge variety of lures, including crankbaits (like Rapala’s), spinners and spoons, and jigheads with soft plastic lures. They’re all very simple to rig; just tie on whatever lure or bait you’re using and you’re good to go.

All that said, the most reliable way to catch perch is with live bait.

Perch will eat just about anything, but some of the best baits for perch include:

• worms/nightcrawlers
• maggots (for ice fishing especially)
• Perch eyeballs

You can also use artificial baits, like:

• Berkley Honeyworms
• Berkley Gulp Minnows

Any of these will work as perch bait. In areas where allowed (check your local fishing regulations first), many anglers swear by perch eyeballs. Once you start catching them, you should have an abundant supply, so it’s worth trying out to see if it works for you.

When fishing the tops of weed beds, a simple bobber rig works best. Tie a #4 baitholder hook and suspend below a bobber so your bait is just above the weed line. Use a split shot 6-12 inches from the hook, and use just enough weight to keep your bait down, because the more action the bait has in the water, the better. Then rig the hook with a worm or your preferred bait, and cast out so your bait is above the weeds. Try different spots and leader lengths as necessary.

You can also fish weed beds very effectively with a drop shot rig (more on that rig here). It’ll keep your lure just above the top of the weed beds, but you can give it as much jigging action as you want to.

If you’re fishing deep water, use jigheads to get to the bottom. Use whatever size jighead is necessary to ensure your rig stays directly below you, and tip it with a worm or other bait. Then slowly jig vertically until you catch fish.

Alternatively (if you don’t have a fish finder), you can cast your jigheads as far as you can and then slowly bounce them along the bottom back towards you. Doing this in a circle around the boat can help you find the fish faster.

When it comes perch fishing with lures, you can use just about anything. But what you choose does depend on where you’re fishing. Some of my favorite perch lures are:

• Rapala Shad Rap Crankbait
• Rooster Tail Spinner
• Miniature Spoons
• Rapala Jigging Rap
• Eagle Claw Marabou Jig

When fishing the shallows, small crankbaits or spinners work well. Cast and retrieve these over the tops of weed beds or along weed lines for the best fishing. You can also cast near docks or other large structure, but be careful not to get too close and snag up.

It’s important to note that perch are considered poor swimmers and accelerate very slowly compared to other fish. When retrieving your lures, keep this in mind and stick to slower speeds for the best results.

When fishing deep water, vertically jigging small soft plastics on jigheads, jigging spoons, or other jigging lures is the way to go. One lure loved by perch anglers is the Rapala Jigging Rap, which looks like a fish and moves erratically as it rises or falls. You pretty much can’t go wrong with this lure as long as you jig it vertically, but any jigging spoon or small soft plastic can work just as well.

All of the above will help you catch more perch, but keep these tips in mind for greater success and a freezer full of fish.

Perch will take anything, but using live bait always increases your chances of success. Even if you’re fishing a lure, tipping it with a maggot or a piece of worm helps immensely. That little bit of scent will make your whole presentation that much more enticing, and the perch won’t be able to resist it.

When jigging vertically, your goal is to be in the “perch zone”. The members of a school don’t all swim at exactly the same depth, though, so adding two or even three hooks further up your line means you’ll be in front of more fish at any given time.

Always make sure using multiple hooks is allowed in your area, but where allowed this tactic can be killer, and even result in catching two or more fish on a single drop.

Perch are notorious bait thieves. They don’t usually take and swallow like bass or trout; often they just nibble at the very tip. This leads to stolen baits, and a hook without bait just doesn’t catch fish.

Checking your baits often (and only using enough bait to cover the hook) ensures that you’re actively fishing as much as possible.

You can catch perch all day, but like many fish, they’re most active at dawn and dusk. Make sure that you’re on the water at these times for the hottest fishing and the best chance of success.

Overall, yellow perch are a fun and easy fish to catch. They’re great for kids because they fight hard for their size, and they’re amazing fried up for the dinner table. You just need to know where they like to be, put some bait in front of them, and you’re good to go. By using the tips in this article you should be well on your way to catching a mess of them, and hopefully having some fish tacos for dinner!

In the world of air gun shooting, there is much debate surrounding the best way to hold a springer. Many shooters will tell you that there is only one way to do it, but the truth is that there are many different ways to hold a springer that can lead to successful shooting. One method that has been gaining popularity in recent years is the artillery hold. So, what is an artillery hold? Let’s take a closer look.

History of Artillery Hold

The term “artillery hold” was first coined by American airgun writer Tom Gaylord. Gaylord observed that many artillery pieces remain accurate even after recoil, and he began to experiment with different grip techniques to see if he could replicate this success with a Beeman C1 air rifle. After some trial and error, Gaylord found that loosening his grip on the rifle resulted in tighter groups. He dubbed this technique the “artillery hold” and it has since been adopted by many shooters looking for an edge on the competition.

Basically, the artillery hold is just a loose hold. Instead of gripping the forestock, simply lay it in your open palm at the point where the rifle is balanced. Grip the buttstock as lightly as possible and lay your thumb along the top of the stock instead of around it. The buttstock should rest against your cheek and shoulder as gently as possible.

Benefits of Artillery Hold

So, what are the benefits of using an artillery hold? First and foremost, it helps to reduce muzzle rise after each shot. This allows for faster target acquisition and increased accuracy, as you are not having to fight the natural tendency of the rifle to want to move up after each shot. Additionally, an artillery hold can help to keep your shots consistent, as any variability in grip will be negated by the fact that your hand is not tightly gripping the stock.

If you are looking to improve your shooting skills, then we highly recommend giving the artillery hold a try. It may take some practice to get used to, but you’ll be impressed with the results.

(For more on the best break barrel air rifle that hits like a champ, see this post)

Camping is a relatively safe experience. I have been a camper for most of my life and have never had an issue where I felt that a deadly weapon was necessary. However, that doesn’t mean that it will always be that way. Having some way to protect yourself when things go wrong is just good common sense.

When many people think of carrying a weapon for protection, a gun may be the first thing that comes to mind. While this is certainly an option if it’s legal and you obey the laws, there are many other options that are less deadly but extremely effective.

Different rules apply depending on where you are on whether or not you can carry a gun. I choose not to go this route but I do have a keen sense of my surroundings and am generally prepared for bad things that might happen.

If you camp regularly and are looking to beef up your defenses, there are some common items that will work very well as weapons. Many of these are already at your disposal and you will simply need to be more aware of them.

When considering a weapon, you need to first establish what you are trying to protect yourself from. It could be wild animals or it could be the most dangerous of all; other humans with bad intentions. It’s good to be prepared for both in case something goes down that threatens your well-being.

If you are going to use a weapon, it should be a last line of defense. Some weapons could get you hurt if you don’t know what you are doing. For example, someone with a greater skill set could take a knife away from you and use it against you instead. Only consider a weapon as a last resort when your back is against the wall and you have to protect yourself from serious harm.

Let’s look at some great weapons to have on hand while camping that can help ensure your safety. These are in no particular order EXCEPT the first one.

NOTE: if you choose to carry any type of weapon when camping, make sure it is legal to do so and you understand any consequences involved in using it.

1. Your Brain / Awareness

The number one way to stay safe while camping is with the weapon you have right between your ears; your brain! Being aware of a situation and using your brain to direct your actions is the first step in ensuring your safety.

Our intuition can help us avoid something that might cause us harm. The trick is to listen to that intuition and avoid getting caught in dangerous situations. Not only that, but it also takes awareness to understand how and where to park your RV or pitch your tent.

Avoiding bad areas or other places where you just don’t feel comfortable will go a long way in protecting you.

Being aware of your surroundings and prepared in the best way that you can should be the first action. Only then does it make sense to even discuss weapons.

2. Pepper Spray / Bear Spray

Pepper spray is a great way to protect yourself against other humans who are up to no good. It’s an easy weapon to carry with you and can easily be kept in your pocket at all times or in a location in your RV that’s easy to get to. With numerous varieties on the market, it’s easy to find an effective pepper spray that will protect you from intruders and other sketchy people that come around.

Pepper spray is designed to incapacitate an attacker long enough so that you can get away. Don’t expect it to take someone down for good.

Bear spray is great to have on hand as well if you camp in areas where bears and other wild animals could cause Harm. While bear spray isn’t designed for protecting yourself against humans, it can be highly effective in the event of a bear attack. It’s good to have both of these on hand on a camping trip and use them accordingly.

With both of these, it’s a good idea to understand how to use them and what the spray bottles are capable of. You don’t want to get caught in a situation where you need to use one and be fiddling around with the spray nozzle. Even worse, spraying towards yourself rather than the intended target.

3. Knife / Axe

Every camper should have a knife on hand. Not only for protection but for the practicality of having one. There are so many things you need a knife for while living off the land. A folding knife can easily be carried in your pocket at all times and it’s great to have on hand for those times when you just need a knife. You may need to open a package, cut a cord, slice up some food, or even protect yourself.

A sturdy pocket knife can be a great way to arm yourself and provide you with a weapon if you ever encounter a situation where when is needed. In an RV, you may have a plethora of knives sitting around for cooking and other needs. These may also be used if someone breaks into your RV or someone is up to no good and you need to ward them off.

Similar to a knife, an axe is also effective as a potential weapon. Axes are sometimes needed on a camping trip in order to cut firewood or chop something down. While you hope to never use such a thing, it’s an option that can do a lot of damage and protect you from unwanted visitors if needed.

4. Fire Extinguisher

If you are an RVer, you likely have a fire extinguisher handy in your RV. While a fire extinguisher is meant to put out fires, it may also serve another purpose if your back is against the wall and you need a weapon to ward off an intruder. If you can locate your fire extinguisher in a timely manner and be able to spray it in the vicinity of the person or other being in question, it can potentially save your life.

The CO2 that is emitted from a fire extinguisher can serve to temporarily incapacitate a person and make it easier for you to get away. Not only that but a fire extinguisher could serve as something that can be used to hit someone over the head.

This would be a last resort measure but since most RVs are, or should be, equipped with a fire extinguisher, it is something to consider as a possible life-saving weapon.

Even tent campers should have a fire extinguisher on hand in case a fire starts burning out of control. Keep it close by and easy to grab and use whether it’s to put out a fire or to run someone away from your campground.

5. Trekking Poles / Walking Stick

Campers are often hikers and hikers often carry trekking poles or some type of walking stick. If you don’t, it’s a good idea to start! A walking stick or trekking poles can serve multiple purposes. The most obvious is giving you a stabilized place to hold onto as you walk across areas that could be potentially slippery or dangerous. A trekking pole gives you a place to hold onto as it firmly pushes into the ground while you hold tightly to it as if it’s a handrail.

A stick like this can also be used in the event of an emergency or if someone is trying to harm you. Not only a person but it can also ward off wild animals that have wandered upon you as you can use it as a weapon to poke, prod, or swing in order to hit the assailant. Having trekking poles like this provides a great additional barrier of protection that can be of help during an encounter with a crazed individual.

Besides being handy for keeping you stable as you are hiking, these trekking poles can become your best friends in times of danger.

6. Rocks

You’ll find plenty of rocks out in nature while you’re camping. After your campsite has been set up, a few select rocks from around the area can be positioned inside your tent, RV, or sleeping area. These rocks may come in handy if you were to hear rustling weeds or a person drawing near that shouldn’t be there.

Having a selection of rocks nearby gives you some weapons to throw or hit onto something. This can provide you with some additional protection and could buy you time so that you can acquire another weapon, run away, or call for help.

Rocks can be thrown, as long as you have a good aim, and will likely make a wild animal run away or stop a human intruder in his or her tracks.

7. Dog

We campers love our dogs and besides being a best friend, a dog can be a great security system! Depending on the dog you have, you may have a partner that can fully protect you or you may have a partner who will only alert you of danger. Either way, having a best friend on hand that has some sharp canines and an instinct to protect, will go a long way in providing you with a weapon that intruders would not want to tangle with.

Even if your dog is not a powerful breed that can take down a large person, he or she will likely still be a fighter that will stand up for you and protect you in times of need. Not only this but a dog can help to draw attention with its barking and possibly alert others who may be around in the campground or nearby.

8. Stun Gun / Taser

A stun gun or taser might be a weapon that you haven’t considered before but can be highly effective if something tries to harm you. If a person comes into your campground causing a ruckus or breaks into your RV and puts your life in danger, a stun gun or taser can be used to stop them in their tracks. The high voltage of these devices is designed to shock and temporarily disable a person as it gives you time to get away or figure out your next move.

A taser is great for taking someone down from a distance, typically 15 to 25 feet away. However, a stun gun can be highly effective if an intruder is upon you and you are fighting for your life. A stun gun temporarily can disable a person if activated while making contact with their body.

The video below shows what happens when a stun gun is used.

There are laws regarding these depending on the locality that you are camping in but in general, are legal to use in most US states and can provide some additional protection when you need it most. Learn more about stun gun laws.

9. Personal Alarm

A personal alarm is something that is more of a deterrent than a weapon. While there won’t be much you can do as far as injuring someone, a loud piercing alarm that you can push when in danger will alert others in the area and potentially cause the intruder to disappear.

Animals may not like the sound either and can be startled enough to run away when the alarm is sounding. These types of personal alarms can be carried in your pocket, on your keychain, in a purse, or backpack. It’s best to have them in a place that is easy to get to without much difficulty.

Having an alarm like this hanging from your backpack strap as you are hiking for example gives you a way to instantly press it in a time of danger. The WETEN Personal Alarm Keychain (affiliate link) is a great option that is easy to use and can be carried on your keychain.

Bottom Line

Overall, camping is a safe experience and there may be no need to worry about carrying a weapon. However, it’s good to know that there are some objects easily accessible that can be highly effective. When your back is against the wall and you are fighting for your life, these items may come in handy as long as you plan in advance.

As the saying goes, expect the best but prepare for the worst. This is just good common sense! It’s better to think about these things now and be prepared when you need them rather than not knowing what to do when the time does come.

CZ has hit the big time in the IPSC Production and Production Optics divisions: the Shadow 2/Shadow 2 OR models clearly dominate these two divisions of dynamic pistol shooting. This is not surprising, since successful ergonomics and high reliability coupled with an unbeatable price-performance ratio are compelling arguments.

In addition, there are the countless successes that have been achieved with the Czech all-steel pistol in recent years. The Czech manufacturer has long been committed to the dynamic IPSC discipline, as Tactical Sports has been part of the product range since 1996. So it looks as if CZ is once again on the attack with the brand-new single-action all-steel TS 2 pistol that should stand up for itself against the 2011 models that have dominated the standard class to date.

Czech triumvirate: CZ Tactical Sports 2 in three versions

Three different models were presented for the future at the online press conference, which also featured CZ team shooter and multiple world champion Eric Grauffel. In addition to the entry-level model for €1750, which was introduced and tested here for the first time, there will also be the TS 2 Racing Green for €2049, which is better equipped in detail, and the top model TS 2 Deep Bronze for €2649 (see also our original news article).Whether the new TS 2 models, like the Shadow 2, will be available in the young CZ online configurator, so that they can be customized according to individual wishes, is unfortunately not exactly known at the moment. The trio is of course not only available in 9mm Luger, but also in the “IPSC Major Power Factor” .40 S&W caliber.

You can discover the CZ configurator here.Time will tell if the previous flagship in the form of the TS Orange will continue to be available for around 2400 euros. At the very least, the first generation Shadow will continue to be in the lineup.

Features of the CZ Tactical Sports 2 pistol in detail

A typical feature is the muzzle-length dust cover, which is now angular in profile compared to its TS predecessor. The undercut at the transition area between the front strap and the trigger guard, as well as under the beavertail, are now a bit more pronounced to allow the gun to sink even deeper into the hand for maximum control when firing.Also new are the recesses on both sides above the trigger, which give the elongated trigger finger better access to the trigger blade. Unfortunately, the trigger blade is made of cheap and elastic plastic, which also applies to the magazine floors. Trigger pull is a low 730 grams with minimal creep before break, but this should go unnoticed, especially in dynamic disciplines. Of course, the trigger is equipped with an adjustable trigger stop. The reset travel of around 1.7 millimeters is short and easily manageable.

As with the Shadow 2, the slide contour of the CZ TS 2 tapers upward, which incidentally means 14 grams less mass to move when firing. The total weight is 48.67 oz/1380 grams, a good 1.05 oz/30 grams more than the TS Orange. The moving mass has thus been further reduced, but the overall weight has increased somewhat, which again contributes to a better shooting feel.To change the point of impact laterally, the rear sight can only be drifted and then fixed with two Torx screws. A point of impact shift in elevation can only be achieved by replacing the fiber optic front sight. In our opinion, this is a bit of a shame, as the less expensive Shadow 2 at least has a height-adjustable rear sight. However, the “Racing Green” and “Deep Bronze” models seem to have a height-adjustable version. Likewise, a left hand thumb rest will be available here, with which many a shooter will achieve greater gun control.

The safety on the entry-level model has a large thumb lever on the left side only. However, an enlarged safety lever for the right side is also available in the CZ accessories store. In our experience, however, this is not absolutely necessary, since the CZ Tactical Sports 2 can be operated perfectly well even in the standard configuration.

The magazine button sticks out far, so that it already pressed a bit into the author’s support hand. Nevertheless, at no time was the magazine accidentally released, although the release resistance was not very high. However, this is also very dependent on the shooter’s grip technique and hand size, so other shooters will not even notice this possible, marginal ergonomics problem.

Even if some aesthetes and material lovers may turn up their noses at the rational production of the frame and slide by means of investment casting, it must be acknowledged without envy that CZ seems to have this process perfectly under control. For one looks in vain for obvious blowholes or exposed seams. The frame/slide tolerances were quite tight.

The 5.25″/131 mm long barrel is formed by rational swaging – better known as hammering – and has the typical European twist of 1-10″/1-250 mm. The barrel is guided at the front by a pressed-in bushing. Under the barrel sits the one-piece spring guide rod with plastic buffer. A 13-lb spring has also been fitted here, which represents a good compromise in terms of reliability and good shooting behavior.If you want, you can also get springs with a lower power in the aftermarket, which promise an even more pleasant shooting behavior. However, based on practical experience, Eric Grauffel recommends not going below 10 lb, otherwise the gun could be too heavily stressed. At least two spare magazines can be found in the hard case.