Sometimes (though not on Maximus) there’s a third set of batteries for high power items such as a bow-thruster or electric windlass.

Wet lead acid

Batteries that have liquid electrolyte sloshing around in them are sometimes referred to as ‘wet’, ‘flooded’ or ‘wet lead acid’ batteries.

To start the engine, boats have a starting or ‘cranking’ battery, like those used in cars, which delivers very high loads for a few seconds.

Only a small portion of the battery’s capacity is used and this is restored by the alternator once the engine is running.

For powering everything else (i.e. chartplotter, lights, fridge, etc.) boats use a domestic, or ‘house’ deep-cycle (or deep-discharge/traction) battery bank which draws a much smaller amount of power over a longer period of time.

It’s important that wet lead acid batteries are stored in a ventilated area. A disadvantage is that they can ‘gas off’ (release hydrogen) if faulty, overcharged or getting old.

Pros: cheap, readily available, lots of choice, starter batteries can be bought in automotive stores. Cons: heavy, can leak, need regular charging, useless once flat, can gas off.

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Wet lead acid – dual/leisure battery

An ‘in-between’ option is the ‘dual’ or leisure battery. A compromise between starting and deep-cycle batteries, these are popular on boats that carry only a single battery, or prefer to have the same type of battery for simpler charging.

Maximus had a leisure battery for starting the engine (an 85Ah Green Power) and a 100Ah deep-cycle Lifeline Battery for powering the rest of electrical equipment.

Both were flat after being left on board for two years and so could not be revived.

Pros: cheap, readily available, lots of choice, dual-purpose starter and domestic. Cons: heavy, can leak, need regular charging, useless once run flat, can gas off.

Sealed lead acid batteries (gel & AGM)

Nobody wants battery acid leaking into the bilge, but there’s a price to pay if you want more durable batteries.

Sealed lead acid batteries are sometimes referred to as VRLA (valve regulated lead acid) and there are two main types – absorbed glass mat (AGM), where the battery plates are protected by fine-stranded glass mats – and gel, where the liquid electrolyte has been converted into a gel.

AGM batteries can be used for both starter and house applications whereas gel batteries are better suited for house applications only.

Both types can withstand many more charge/discharge cycles than conventional deep-discharge batteries – for example, a 7-10 year lifespan rather than a 4-5.

Pros: leak-proof, longer lifespan than wet lead acid, AGM can be dual-purpose starter and domestic. Cons: twice the price of wet lead acid, up to 25% heavier, need regular charging, useless once flat.

Lead carbon batteries

Lead carbon batteries are not widely known. Our electrician had never fitted them, and indeed I hadn’t considered these until I spoke to Victron Energy.

However, they are highly regarded by PBO contributor Paul Sumpner, who fitted Leoch lead carbon batteries to his electric-propulsion narrowboat Old Nick.

Paul worked out his requirements, which were a regular DoD of 50%, year-round usage, a minimum of 48V, 600Ah, zero maintenance, a life cycle of 3,000+ discharges, non-vertical mounting and to be able to survive a regular partial state of discharge. Plus, they couldn’t “completely blow the budget”.

“It became clear that only lead carbon or lithium batteries would be suitable,” he said, and later confirmed he couldn’t be happier with the equipment he chose.

Lead carbon batteries are an advanced type of VRLA battery, which has a positive plate (anode) of lead, but a negative (cathode) plate made of carbon composite.

According to Victron, the advantages are less sulfation, and a lower charge voltage, meaning higher efficiency and less corrosion of the positive plate. Overall, the result should be an improved cycle life.

Pros: leak proof, longer life, less sulfation. Cons: more expensive, can’t be used for starter motor, larger and heavier than AGM or lead acid.

Lithium batteries

Lithium-ion is a broad chemistry of batteries, the most common being LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate). They can withstand four or five times the number of cycles compared to most deep-cycle lead acid batteries (4,000+), can go down to a much lower state of charge, and can keep a reasonable level of charge for up to 12 months.

While lead acid batteries, in practice, only allow 30% of rated capacity, the best lithium batteries can be discharged to 70-80% of the rated capacity.

So really, a 100Ah lithium battery is the equivalent to having a 200Ah lead acid battery, only it will usually charge much quicker, is half the weight and a lot smaller.

A word of warning, though. Although lithium batteries can accept fluctuating voltage (13.6V-14.6V) like lead acid batteries, they should not be directly charged from an alternator because voltage spikes could damage them. A dedicated charger and battery management system is a necessity.

Pros: long-lasting, can use 80% of capacity, easier to manage, small, lightweight. Cons: expensive (up to 4 x cost of wet lead acid), boat adaptations required.

Next steps

Having had a brief look at batteries, I called marine surveyor Ben Sutcliffe-Davies. I wondered if there was any possibility of reviving flat batteries.

“I’ll be honest with you, start with new batteries,” he said. “You’re relying on this battery to start the boat. Yes it might pick up, but I guarantee it’ll be like a dying swan when you need it.”

For domestic systems, Ben likes Numax batteries, which he says a lot of the industry use. For the cranker, he said, any automotive battery would do.

“I went down to my local tyre and exhaust place, and just got four heavy-duty deep cycle leisure batteries and one tidy cranker for the engine,” he told me.

Thanks to our Project Boat Supporters

Dell Quay Marine, Osculati, Raymarine, Shakespeare Marine, TruDesign, Screwfix, Coleman Marine Insurance, MDL Marinas, Premier Marinas, seajet, Marine & Industrial, Clean to Gleam, Dometic, West System, Farécla, Navigators Marine, Lewmar, RYA, Aqua Marine, Ecobat, Victron Energy, Scanstrut, T Sails and XP Rigging.

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Want to buy the Best Thermal Scope for your rifle? We have you covered with a comprehensive, constantly updating list of quality Thermal Scopes on the market.

We have all price ranges on our list, so you can be sure to find something in your price range and feature set.

What is thermal imaging?

Thermal imaging is a type of optical technology that measures the amount of heat radiation given off by living objects.

It works by capturing the infrared light that is emitted from the heat of a target, and this is then converted into an electrical signal that creates an image of the target on a display.

Thermal imaging scopes are useful in any kind of lighting condition and can be used during the day and at night, even in total darkness.

They do not require external light sources, are unaffected by glare, and can be used to see through dust, smoke, and fog.

However, they are pretty expensive and may require additional training to interpret the images correctly.

Best Thermal Scopes for 2024

ATN ThOR 4

The ATN ThOR 4 thermal scope is an excellent option for those looking for a reliable thermal scope in 2024.

This thermal scope is packed with features that make it an ideal choice for both hunting and tactical operations.

The 4th generation dual core thermal sensor provides ultra-sensitive detection and better contrasts.

The scope also has recoil-activated video, a one-shot zero, and ultra-low power consumption.

The ATN ThOR 4 features a built-in laser range finder, dual-stream video, and a new ultra-sensitive next-generation thermal sensor which lets you view and record at never before seen high resolution.

ThOR 4 series of thermal scope features a suite of applications like a built-in ballistics calculator, and it features recoil-resistant components and an expandable MicroSD slot that lets you record up to 256 gigabytes of photos and video on your device.

All these features make the ATN ThOR 4 an excellent choice for 2024.

Sig Sauer Echo 3

The Sig Sauer Echo 3 thermal scope is an excellent choice for anyone looking for an affordable, yet high-quality thermal scope.

The Echo 3 offers a wide variety of features that make it a great choice for an all-purpose thermal scope in 2024.

One of the Echo 3’s best features is its reasonable price tag. With two variants available, one with 1-6x magnification and one with 2-12x magnification, it is possible to acquire an excellent thermal scope without breaking the bank.

With 8 color palettes and 6 brightness settings, users are able to adjust the image to fit their needs.

The Sig Sauer Echo 3 also provides excellent battery life and a motion-controlled battery monitoring system, called MOTAC.

This system helps conserve battery life and helps ensure that the optic will power back on when needed.

The Echo 3 utilizes two CR123 batteries that last for up to 6 hours.

Finally, the main eye-catching feature of the Echo 3 is its large open screen. This feature allows users to keep their situational awareness high and makes the optic easier to use on the fly.

These features make the Echo 3 the best overall thermal scope for 2024.

Burris Thermal Riflescope

The Burris BTS 50 Thermal Riflescope is an excellent choice for thermal rifle scopes in 2021.

Its durable design and one-button control make it one of the most user-friendly thermal scopes available on the market.

With a 3.3-13.2 magnification range, a 400×300 pixel thermal sensor resolution, and a 50 Hz refresh rate, the Burris Thermal Riflescope offers a clear sight picture for hunting a variety of animals.

Its Hot Track feature allows the device to quickly and easily recognize the hottest object in the reticle’s zone and stick with it as it moves around.

The Burris Thermal Riflescope is also lightweight and compact, and its mounting system makes it easy to attach to a Picatinny rail.

Burris Thermal Riflescope comes with a 3-year warranty.

This makes it a great option for those who want an affordable and reliable thermal scope for their nighttime shooting setup.

Pulsar Thermion 2 Pro

The Pulsar Thermion 2 Pro is a powerful thermal imaging riflescope that offers a sleek design and a built-in laser rangefinder.

Featuring a 640×480 microbolometer resolution and an AMOLED display with 1024×768 resolution, this scope can detect heat signatures up to 2,000 yards away.

It includes a powerful laser rangefinder with a range of up to 875 yards, Wi-Fi connectivity to upload data to the Stream Vision 2 App, 10 reticle shapes in 9 color modes, Picture-in-Picture mode, and 5 unique shooting profiles.

It also boasts 10 hours of battery life, IPX7 waterproof rating, and can withstand calibers from 12 gauge, 9.3×64, and .375 H&H.

This scope is ideal for hunters who need precision and accuracy in any weather condition.

AGM Rattler TC19

The AGM Rattler TC19 is a great thermal scope for 2024 due to its affordability, impressive detection range, and versatility.

At under $1000, it’s a great value compared to its competitors, with a useful detection range of up to 650 yards.

It also features a FLIR Tau 2 sensor with 384×288 resolution, which allows for very crisp and detailed thermal imaging even at long distances.

The scope can also be used as a riflescope or a handheld monocular, with a digital zoom of up to 8x magnification.

It has the added benefit of being able to be connected to an external 5V battery pack via USB, increasing the usable battery life.

All of this makes the AGM Rattler TC19 a capable and affordable thermal scope for 2024.

Steiner NightHunter S35

The Steiner NightHunter S35 is an ideal thermal scope thanks to its unbeatable combination of features, performance, and price.

It has a high-resolution sensor of 640 x 480, a fast refresh rate of 12 micron/50 Hz, digital zoom of 2x and 8x, a long battery life of 4.5+ hours, and a lightweight 2.25-pound design.

It also offers durable aluminum housing and both first- and second-plane reticles, allowing the user to accurately and precisely identify targets in the dark.

Its price of under $5000 makes it an affordable option for those who need a reliable thermal scope.

With its reliable performance, high-quality components, and reasonable price, the Steiner NightHunter S35 is the perfect thermal.

ATN THOR LTV

The ATN ThOR LTV is a thermal rifle scope that has been gaining popularity in the shooting community because of its great price point.

This scope provides users with a 1280x720p HD display with Black-hot and White-hot modes, a one-shot zero feature for easy adjustments in the field, and 10+ hours of continuous battery power.

It is constructed with a hardened aluminum alloy and has a weather-resistant IP rating, making it prepared to face any adverse weather conditions.

It features the acclaimed 68 MOA circle dot reticle, which is known to offer the most intuitive ranging capabilities available.

With its excellent features and affordable price, the ATN ThOR LTV is perfect for both experienced and novice hunters and shooters alike.

It is a great product that combines both quality and affordability, making it a popular choice for anyone looking for a thermal rifle scope.

Fusion Thermal Avenger 40

Fusion Thermal Avenger 40 is a thermal scope that was designed around the Keep it Simple stupid menu system that Fusion Thermal is known for.

The Avenger 40 features a three-button control system as well as an alloy housing. The 40mm Ultra HD objective lens provides a great sight picture. The sensor is a 384×288 12-Micron thermal sensor and provides a top-notch thermal image.

A quality QD tactical scope mount is included and this optic is backed by a five-year transferable warranty.

What are the benefits of using a thermal scope?

Improved Target Acquisition and Acquisition

Using a thermal scope can drastically improve target acquisition and range.

Thermal scopes help with three things: detection, recognition, and identification.

Thermal imaging requires no light to function, which provides a distinct advantage in dense vegetation, under cloud cover, and during moonless nights.

Thermal scopes can detect targets up to 2,000 yards away, recognize the difference between a hog and a calf or spot a weapon up to 500 yards away, and identify a person or animal up to 200 yards away.

Furthermore, thermal scopes have customizable reticles and color schemes, as well as a one-shot-zero feature and can save profiles for multiple weapons or ammunition.

All of these features help to improve target acquisition and range.

See in Low Light Conditions

Thermal scopes help see in low light conditions by detecting heat emitted by a target and displaying it as a visible image.

This allows people to observe their target clearly, even in complete darkness or foggy weather.

Thermal scopes are also especially useful for hunting because they are not affected by camouflage or other obstructions, and can detect a target’s heat signature at farther distances than night vision scopes.

They can be used during the day or night, while night vision scopes are not designed to be used in daylight.

Detect and Track Moving Targets Easily

Thermal scopes offer a significant advantage in detecting and tracking moving targets.

The key benefit of a thermal scope is its ability to detect heat emitted by an object, which is why they are able to pick up and track moving targets better than other types of scopes.

This means that a thermal scope can be used to detect and track animals, people, vehicles, and other moving objects even in conditions where other scopes might struggle, such as cloudy days, in the brush, and at night.

Thermal scopes come with a wide range of features and capabilities, such as adjustable refresh rates, custom reticles and color palettes, and one-shot-zero capability, all of which support enhanced target acquisition and tracking.

Enhanced Accuracy and Reduced Guesswork

When shooting, accuracy and reducing guesswork are paramount.

A thermal scope can provide just that, as it provides a clearer image of the target and allows for easier ranging.

Thermal scopes are typically equipped with a built-in rangefinder, so you won’t need to switch back and forth between a separate device, like a rangefinder or rangefinding binoculars.

Some of the higher-end devices on the market have the ability to geotag your shot, recording the elevation, location, and speed when it was taken.

Thermal scopes often come with a 4-line crosshair reticle which allows for an easier adjustment for range to target, as opposed to a single-dot reticle which is better suited for short-range accuracy.

The thermal resolution on these scopes is also higher, providing a much clearer image of the target.

On top of this, the scopes are durable and lightweight, making them easy and comfortable to use, and they often have multiple zero settings, allowing you to save various zero settings to change your rifle’s zero with the press of a button.

These scopes can record your best shots and even share them with your friends. All of these features contribute to making the thermal scope a great choice for accurate, ethical shooting.

Ability to View Through Foliage and Other Objects

Thermal scopes provide a distinct advantage for viewing through foliage and other objects because they detect heat rather than relying on light like a night vision scope does.

The thermal scope can detect heat in heavily wooded areas that help animals or people stand out among the vegetation.

It does not need any additional light sources and can be used during the day or night, whereas daylight can potentially damage a night vision scope.

Thermal scopes have a much higher contrast between the target and the rest of the picture, making it easier to see, while night vision does not.

Thermal scopes can cut through camouflage or dense fog, while targets standing still are harder to recognize with traditional scopes.

Increased Safety Due to Target Detection

The use of a thermal scope significantly increases safety by providing the shooter with the ability to detect targets, even in the dark.

Thermal scopes aLLOW the shooter to identify potential threats in low light or no light conditions.

This allows the shooter to make an informed decision before taking any action, reducing the potential for friendly fire or collateral damage.

A wide field of view and long detection range of some thermals scopes allow for greater situational awareness, enabling the shooter to anticipate threats before they become imminent dangers.

Reduced Fatigue for the Eyes

Using a thermal scope reduces fatigue for the eyes by providing a super clear sight picture with a good refresh rate, a compact design, an adjustable refresh rate, and an awesome resolution.

The efficient size and weight of the thermal scope also enable users to enjoy longer use without the burden of carrying a heavy device.

Moreover, the optics of the thermal scope provide up to 6X or 12X magnification with resolutions of up to 640×512, allowing users to have an enhanced visual experience while reducing eye strain.

What to consider when choosing a thermal scope?

Here are a few good ideas to keep in mind while you’re shopping for a thermal scope.

Purpose and use

A thermal scope is an optical device that uses digital sensors and computer processors to measure and display the differences in heat radiation as various colors and contrast.

It is used as a target spotting scope, allowing the user to pick out targets by their heat signature in dark conditions and through weather conditions such as rain, fog, and snow.

Thermal scopes are also known as Forward-Looking Infrared (FLIR) scopes and can be handheld or mounted to a firearm.

They can also be used to record photos and videos, making them a valuable training tool in a tactical setting, or be used to record your hunt.

Price

Thermal scope price ranges are quite wide: you can find some units under the $1,000 mark, but these are rare to find.

Most thermal scopes on the market will cost at least $1,000, and some will exceed $5,000 and even reach up to $10,000.

If you’re looking for the best bang for your buck, you’ll likely be shopping in the $1,200-$2,500 range, but if you have the budget for it, then you could even look at some of the higher end models.

It’s important to keep in mind that these are not night-vision units, which can cost only a few hundred dollars since thermal scopes depend on a rare-earth element called germanium, which supplies temperature-sensitive glass for them.

Features

When choosing a thermal scope, it is important to consider several key features.

These include lens size, zoom, refresh rate, battery life, Wi-Fi capability, additional features such as Bluetooth technology, streaming, laser rangefinders, GPS, compasses, and ballistic calculators, and video recording capabilities.

Lens size will depend on the range you need to shoot at, while zoom will determine how close you can get to the target.

Refresh rate is important in order to get a clear picture, and battery life will determine how long you can use the scope without interruption.

Wi-Fi capability will allow you to stream video and connect to other devices, while additional features like Bluetooth, laser rangefinders, GPS, and compasses can add convenience.

Finally, video recording capabilities will allow you to capture and replay images. It is important to consider all of these features in order to choose the best thermal scope for your needs.

Quality and Reliability

Image quality is perhaps the most important, as this will determine how clear and accurate the sight picture is.

You should also look at the range of the scope, and make sure it can detect heat signatures out to the distances you need.

Pay attention to the materials used in the scope’s construction, as they should be extremely high-quality, as well as the pixel pitch and thermal resolution.

In addition to these qualities, reliability is also an important factor to consider. Look for a scope with a generous warranty length and positive customer support reviews.

Certain thermal scopes can come with bonus features such as Bluetooth technology, Wi-Fi streaming, and video recording capabilities.

While these features can be helpful, they are not necessary for good operation.

Ultimately, it is important to choose a thermal scope that provides the features you need at a reasonable price.

Optical Quality

Optical quality is of paramount importance when choosing a thermal scope. Good optics will ensure that you get a clear, high-quality image with minimal distortion.

The lens should be made of specialized germanium crystals, which absorb less light from the infrared spectrum.

This will allow you to capture more detail at higher magnifications. A larger objective lens, usually in the 50-60mm range, will also provide more signal and allow for better resolution.

It’s also important to consider the refresh rate of the thermal scope. A higher refresh rate means you will be able to detect movement more easily and accurately.

All of these features are essential for getting the most out of your thermal scope and ensuring you have the best possible experience.

Reticle and Zeroing

When choosing a thermal scope, there are a few important considerations that come into play. The reticle is one of the most important features to consider.

Reticle options vary from model to model and usually have different colors and styles that can also be selected to match your environment and target type.

Some reticles even feature a bullet-drop compensator, which can be a great aid to long-distance shooting.

Zeroing your thermal scope is also much easier than zeroing a traditional optic. Many thermal scopes offer a one-shot-zero feature, allowing you to set an accurate zero with a single shot.

Some models even allow you to save multiple presets, so you can have precise zeroes for different loads of ammunition on hand.

Overall, reticles and zeroing are two of the most important considerations when choosing a thermal scope.

Different reticle options and colors can help you better identify your target, and the one-shot-zero feature makes it easy to set accurate zeroes for multiple loads of ammo.

Field of View

The field of view of a thermal scope is the area the scope will allow you to see.

It is measured in degrees and typically ranges from 4 to 14 degrees, depending on the scope’s magnification.

Generally, the higher the magnification, the narrower the field of view. The field of view is important since it helps you recognize your target from farther away.

With a wider field of view, you can see more of the area around you, making it easier to spot targets.

The refresh rate of the scope also affects how quickly you can recognize targets and movements. Higher refresh rates allow you to see changes to the scene faster.

Weight and size

Weight and size are important considerations. With any optic weight can add unneeded stress to the shooter and weigh down your gun while trying to aim.

Making accurate shots is much easier with a lighter firearm and won’t fatigue the shooter.

Sensitivity and Amplification

Sensitivity is a key characteristic of thermal scopes that determines how well the scope can detect heat signatures of objects at a certain distance.

The higher the sensitivity, the further away the thermal scope can detect heat. Amplification is another key factor in determining the range and performance of thermal scopes.

Amplification increases the brightness of the image, allowing for better detection of heat signatures in low-light conditions.

It also helps to magnify the image and make it easier to identify objects at a distance.

Batteries

When choosing a thermal scope, it is important to consider the battery life, charging time, and replacement battery costs.

Thermal scopes typically operate on lithium-ion batteries that are easy to replace and charge and the battery life for most quality thermal scopes is about 8 hours, which is normally sufficient for a single hunting trip.

However, if a person is going on a longer trip, a spare battery will be necessary.

Some thermals can use external battery sources, which can mix disposable and external battery sources.

When comparing thermal scopes, it is important to take into account battery life as it can make a huge difference in the field.

Thermal scopes have become more efficient, but battery life generally ranges from three hours to twenty-four hours.

Some thermals come with spare batteries while others are rechargeable.

It is important to read up on the scope before purchase to make sure the battery life will last as long as needed, also consider the cost of replacement batteries.

Mounting options

Mounting options for thermal scopes vary depending on the specific scope.

Thermal scopes can either be designed to be mounted directly onto a rifle’s Picatinny rail or require special gear, such as a mounting base with rail segmentation and scope rings with the correct mounting height.

Clip-on thermal devices can also be used to mount a thermal scope onto a rifle that only has dovetails.

Monoculars, on the other hand, are handheld or mounted on helmets and are used purely for observation.

They cannot be zeroed and do not feature reticles, unlike traditional thermal scopes.

Some examples of thermal scopes include the Burris Thermal Riflescope, SIG Echo3, Trijicon REAP-IR, Thermion XP50, ATN Thor 4 384, AGM Python TS50-640, and Steiner Close Quarter’s Thermal Sight.

Each of these scopes has its own mounting considerations, so it is important to do research on the specific scope before making a purchase.

FAQ

As a busy archery instructor with dozens of students, I’m always on the lookout for the best crossbow targets.

Over the years, I’ve bought dozens of targets and seen exactly how they perform on the range and in the field.

After testing everything from cheap targets that get chewed up after a few hundred bolts to premium targets that can withstand thousands of impacts, I know which targets are worth the money and which are best avoided.

To share everything I’ve learned, I decided to put together this list of what I think are the five best crossbow targets you can buy right now:

1. Morrell Double Duty 450 FPS Target – Best overall ($83.99)
2. Rinehart 18-1 Broadhead Target – Best for broadheads ($171.85)
3. Morrell Yellow Jacket Field Point Target – Best portable ($71.99)
4. Delta McKenzie Speedbag 20” Target – Best value ($44.97)
5. GlenDel Buck 3D Archery Target – Best 3D target for hunters. ($175.99)

Curious about why I rate these targets so highly?

Keep reading to the end to find out!

1: Morrell Double Duty 450 FPS Target (Best Overall)

In first place is the Morrell Double Duty 450 FPS Target.

The Double Duty is my go-to target whenever I’m coaching students or practicing my hunting skills and, in my opinion, is the overall best crossbow target on the market today.

Here’s a quick look at some of the key features that make the Double Duty my No 1 pick.

Extreme durability

According to Morrell, the Double Duty’s ‘floating center’, which is filled with burlap and stuffing, can withstand bolts traveling at up to 450 fps (feet per second) and is durable enough to withstand thousands of bolts.

For peace of mind, the Double Duty comes with a replacement cover, increasing its lifespan even longer.

Two-finger bolt removal

Morrell is famous for claiming that bolts shot into its targets can be removed with just two fingers. Even though the Double Duty is rated for the fastest bolts, it is claimed to offer the same two-finger bolt removal as other Morrell targets.

Multi-use cube design

The Double Duty is a free-standing cube that can be flipped onto different sides depending on whether you want to practice shooting traditional bullseyes, a dartboard, the billiards game nine-ball, or even deer vitals to brush up on your hunting skills.

Based on what I’ve read online, crossbow enthusiasts seem to absolutely love the Double Duty.

It is currently rated 4.7 out of 5 stars on Amazon based on 2,687 global ratings.

Take Choche, for instance, who says the Double Duty offers easy bolt removal and can withstand thousands of bolt impacts without any issues.

My Experience With The Double Duty

I’ve owned a Double Duty for a couple of years now, and it’s by far my favorite crossbow target and is a great addition to any of the crossbows on this list of the best crossbows.

• The Double Duty is incredibly tough and would definitely be my top recommendation for anyone with a super fast crossbow. One of my buddies shot my Double Duty with his TenPoint Nitro 505 Xero Crossbow, and it had no problem stopping the 505 fps bolt before the vanes.
• True to Morrell’s claims, you really can remove bolts from the Double Duty with just two fingers. In fact, this target has the easiest bolt removal of any crossbow target I’ve ever tested or owned.
• Having multiple sides to shoot at is a real plus, as I can go from shooting at traditional bullseyes to shooting at deer vitals simply by flipping the target. While shooting at the deer vitals side isn’t as immersive as shooting at a real 3D archery target, the Double Duty is far more durable and much better value.
• My only complaint is that while the exterior is waterproof, the sun can fade the material, so it can’t really be left outside all the time. Luckily it has sturdy carrying handles and stowing it away isn’t too much of a hassle.

Priced at just $84.99 on Amazon, the Double Duty is my pick for the best overall crossbow target and is a must-have if you plan on shooting high-speed crossbows.

Click here to read more about the Morrell Double Duty 450 FPS Target and get the best price on Amazon.

2: Rinehart 18-1 Broadhead Target (Best For Broadheads)

In second place on my list of the best crossbow targets is the Rinehart 18-1 Broadhead Target.

The 18-1 is an extremely tough and durable target designed to withstand broadheads. With a 12-month warranty, it’s my pick for the best crossbow target for broadheads.

Key features

• Extreme durability: According to Rinehart, the 18-1 is made from self-healing foam that can handle bolts traveling at more than 500 fps.
• Lightweight and portable: With an easy-carry handle, the Rinehart is designed with portability in mind and can easily be transported between the club, the woods, or even your backyard.
• High visibility: The 18-1’s target zones are highly visible, making shot identification very easy, even in low-light conditions.

There aren’t many broadhead-compatible crossbow targets to choose from, and the 18-1 seems extremely popular with customers.

Currently rated 4.6 out of 5 stars on Amazon based on 645 reviews, 80% of customers who purchased the 18-1 have rated it 5 stars.

Take Ben W, for instance, who claims to have shot over 3,000 bolts into his 18-1, making it the longest-lasting target he’s ever owned.

After putting in a warranty claim, he was really impressed that Rinehart sent him a replacement target.

My Experience With The 18-1

As an avid hunter, the 18-1 is my favorite target for testing new broadheads and getting my crossbow zeroed in before heading into the woods.

Here’s my honest review of how my 18-1 has performed:

• The 18-1 is extremely durable and has excellent self-healing, especially with mechanical broadheads. Twin-blade mechanicals cause the least damage, while fixed broadheads can tear the target up more.
• The target markings are highly visible at all times of the day. This makes it far quicker and easier to zero a crossbow, which comes in handy whenever I’m testing new broadheads.
• Although the 18-1 has a high price tag, Rinehart does honor the 12-month warranty and will send a replacement if the target lasts less than a year.

Priced at $129.99 on Amazon, the Rinehart is my pick for the best crossbow target for broadheads.

Click here to read more about the Rinehart 18-1 Broadhead Target and get the best price on Amazon.

3: Morrell Yellow Jacket Field Point Target (Best Portable)

In third place on my list of the best crossbow targets is the Morrell Yellow Jacket Field Point Target.

Yellow Jacket targets are almost as tough and durable as my first place pick, the Double Duty, but they are much more portable.

Here are some of the features that make these crossbow-approved bag targets some of the best crossbow targets you can buy right now.

• Long lifecycle: According to Morrell, the double-sided Yellow Jacket targets are highly weather resistant and stand up well to the elements. The material inside doesn’t degrade, and the targets are claimed to have a very long lifecycle. They also come with a replacement cover to extend the lifespan of the target when the original cover becomes too damaged.
• High durability: Capable of stopping bolts traveling at up to 425 fps, the Yellow Jacket is ideal for all but the most powerful crossbows and is extremely tough. Morrell claims that the Yellow Jacket can withstand thousands of bolt impacts without tearing up.
• Ease of use: Weighing just 32 pounds, the Yellow Jacket is highly portable and has grommets so it can be hung from target stands or trees. Morrell says that bolts can be removed with just two fingers, giving it great ease of use.

I’ve been happily using Yellow Jacket crossbow targets for years, but I wanted to see what others were saying about them online.

With a current rating of 4.7 out of 5 stars on Amazon, it’s safe to say that most customers seem to love Yellow Jacket targets.

Take Joshua, for example, who says his Yellow Jacket stops 125 gr. field points dead in its tracks and is extremely happy with its performance.

My Experience With The Yellow Jacket

I’ve purchased six Yellow Jackets over the years, and here are my thoughts:

• Yellow Jackets are one of the most weather-resistant target bags I’ve ever bought. My oldest target is more than five years old and still going strong. The replacement cover really helps get years of extra life from these targets.
• One of the best things about Yellow Jackets is how portable they are. You can hang them up, stand them against a tree, or position them at just about any angle. If I’m coaching a student at their home, I’ll throw a couple of Yellow Jackets in my truck’s bed, and off I go.
• The only downside about Yellow Jacket targets is that pulling bolts out can be a little tougher than other targets like the Double Duty.

Priced at just $78.75, Yellow Jacket field point targets are my top pick for the most portable crossbow targets. They are durable, easy to use, and give years of reliable use.

Click here to read more about the Morrell Yellow Jacket Field Point Target and get the best price on Amazon.

4: Delta McKenzie Speedbag 20” Target (Best Value)

In fourth place on my list of the best crossbow targets is the Delta McKenzie Speedbag 20” Target.

While I’m a huge fan of Morrell’s products, I realize that not everyone wants to spend $80 on a crossbow target. That’s why the Speedbag 20 is my fourth-place pick.

In my opinion, the Speedbag 20 is a great budget-priced crossbow target that holds up well to thousands of bolt impacts.

Here are a few of its features that make it my No 4 pick for the best crossbow target.

Key features

• Max FPS rated: Delta McKenzie says the Speedbag 20 is rated to handle the fastest-shooting crossbows.
• Multiple targets: The dual-sided Speedbag 20 has multiple aiming points, making it suitable for novice and experienced shooters alike.
• Weather resistant: The Speedbag 20 is highly weather resistant and offers great outdoor durability.

I own a couple of Speedbag 20s and know firsthand how great they are. From what I’ve read online, customers seem to love them too.

Currently rated 4.5 out of 5 stars on Amazon based on 34 global ratings, the Speedbag 20 seems to be extremely popular with other crossbow owners.

Bretty says the Speedbag 20 is a solid crossbow target that has stopped every bolt he’s tried. He recommends the target for anyone looking for a budget-friendly target with great stopping power.

My Experience with the Speedbag 20

After shooting thousands of bolts at my Speedbag 20s over the years, here’s my honest assessment of how they perform:

• Delta McKenzie’s claim about the Speedbag 20s being ‘Max FPS’ rated is definitely justified. It has absolutely no trouble stopping 400+ fps bolts from any crossbow and comfortably stops 450 fps bolts from my Ravin R29X Predator.
• I love how portable the Speedbag 20s are and often use them when I’m coaching a client at their home.
• My only complaint about the Speedbags is they aren’t as weather resistant as the Yellow Jackets, so I don’t recommend leaving them outside.

Overall, the Speedbag 20 is an excellent budget-priced crossbow target that holds up well and should provide years of happy use.

Click here to learn more about the Delta McKenzie Speedbag 20” Target and get the best price on Amazon.

5: GlenDel Buck 3D Archery Target (Best 3D Target For Hunters)

In fifth place on my list of the best crossbow targets is the GlenDel Buck 3D Archery Target with Replaceable Insert Core.

I love 3D archery and have tested a number of 3D targets over the years. In my opinion, GlenDel makes the best one, and it’s my top pick for the best 3D archery target for crossbow hunters.

Here’s why I rate the GlenDel so highly.

Key Features

• Realistic hunting practice:GlenDel’s 3D deer target is approximately the same size as a 200lb buck, making it extremely realistic for target practice. Standing 34” at shoulder height, it’s great for honing your skills as you prepare to drop a monster buck.
• Long target life: Made in the U.S.A. using PolyFusion Technology, GlenDel claims that its target can withstand thousands of bolt impacts. The replaceable four-sided insert core can easily be replaced when they reach the end of its lifespan.
• High maneuverability: The head and antlers are fully removable, making the target much easier to transport and position in the field.

I’ve had a GlenDel 3D deer target as part of my range for more than two years and am extremely happy. Looking online, it seems most other owners are similarly impressed.

The target is rated 4.4 out of 5 on Amazon based on 1,609 global ratings, and 71% of reviewers gave it the top score.

Marcus says his 3D target is impressively sturdy and has held up well after 100 arrows. He says the arrows are easy to pull out and recommends this target to anyone looking for a realistic hunting target.

Our world’s oceans contain some of the craziest things. Scientists are still discovering new fish TODAY and if that doesn’t tell you about the content of the sea, then I don’t know what does. A lot of it is terrifying and most people wouldn’t be caught dead trying to fight anything that’s been evolving for like, a trillion years. These creatures probably know more about the creation of the earth than we do. While a ton of the ocean’s animals are scary, they can also be super tasty. As much as you may like Salmon and Tuna, there’s plenty of fish in the sea. And most of it is delicious when seared in your kitchen, regardless of how crazy-looking it may be. We’ve compiled a list of some of the most exotic fish that you can actually put in your mouth and eat (and really really love).

The Lionfish is a tropical fish and it is an established invasive species on the East Coast of the U.S. and in the Caribbean. It is fast-growing, an insatiable eater, reproduces year round, and has no known predators in the areas to which it has been introduced, so it is quickly becoming a threat to local ecosystems, especially along the central and south Atlantic coasts. One way to help save the environment: eat more Lionfish! In areas where it is native, such as the Red Sea in Greece and many islands in the Pacific, the Lionfish is regularly consumed. These slow-pokes are typically caught with spears or hand-held nets, a catch method that results in little bycatch or damage to the habitat. The fins of the Lionfish are venomous, but are easily removed after being caught and the poison is neutralized by heat, as through cooking. The Lionfish has a white flesh and is said to taste similar to certain Snappers and Groupers.

Spiny Lobsters basically eat anything you put in front of them, but they’re mostly known for consuming small Snails and Crabs, decaying organic matter, and some plants. Incredibly hungry crustaceans, they have exoskeletons that do not expand and they must shed often in order to grow bigger. Before molting, a Spiny Lobster begins building a new, bigger skeleton inside the existing one. As it gets too big to be contained, it splits open the outer shell and the new exoskeleton hardens. Spiny Lobsters are more active at night and that’s when they go out to forage for food. These babies are super sweet; way sweeter than the Maine Lobster but you’re not likely to find it on your American plate any time soon. About 90% of the live Spiney Lobster market gets sold to China due to their insanely high demand and the percentage gets higher every year, while American consumers aren’t willing to pay the price for this unique looking Lobster. If you happen to find a Spiny Lobster on your menu down the line, be sure to give it a try (you might not see it again) – it’s chewy, nutty, and again, very sweet!

If you’re a big fan of sushi, you’ve probably already heard of Uni, the Japanese word for Sea Urchin. The gonads of the Sea Urchin is a delicacy in Japan, and often it can retail for as high as $360 per kilogram. It is served raw as sashimi or in sushi, with soy sauce and wasabi and it is imported in large quantities to Japan, mostly from America and South Korea. California Uni is abundant and especially delicious and most of it is exported to the Japanese market but it is enjoyed in the United States as well with many consumers loving the unique texture and the flavor is a surprising mix of sweetness and ocean brine. Don’t be scared to try new things! Uni is becoming more and more popular every day, so if you see it on the menu during your next visit to the sushi bar, give it a shot!

The Nordic Wolffish is a pretty scary looking thing but it’s perfect for frying or grilling! It kind of looks like an eel with a really big head. Wolffish has delicious, firm flesh similar to Monkfish (another ugly looking fish). Because they live on shellfish, the meat can also have a flavor reminiscent of Shrimp. This fish holds up really well in a fish stew, and it’s especially great when fried as cutlets. Most Wolffish are caught off the shores of Iceland near the Arctic Circle. This fish is super unique: they’re known by the natural antifreeze they produce to keep their blood moving fluidly in their very cold habitat and the large size of their eggs. The Icelandic Wolffish population success is also an important factor in the health of other bottom-dweller populations, such as Atlantic Cod. Important to the ocean environment, versatile in the kitchen, and super delicious? What a combo!

A marine crustacean named for its resemblance to the praying mantis, Mantis Shrimp are typically found as a sushi topping, are boiled whole, and eaten out of the shell. They appear in various Mediterranean cuisines (in Italy, they are Canocchie) and there are over 450 different species of Mantis Shrimp. The meat is intensely sweet, like Lobster, only even more tender than the most tender of tiny Lobsters. It is, by far, the most delicious of the squirmy crustaceans you’ll encounter at the local fish market. If you can get your hands on some Mantis Shrimp, prepare them as you would Prawns, Shrimp, and Langostinos: in pasta, linguine, paella, risotto, and anything else your heart desires. Or, just boil and get to grubbing.

Ever have a buttermilk fried Pufferfish with tartar sauce? We have, and let us tell you: it has to be tasted to be believed. Essentially, it’s the Kentucky fried fish you need in your life. Fry these guys up whole and you have yourself a party. The Pufferfish makes a lot of appearances in cartoons and sunny seaside town decals at seafood restaurants and beyond, but most people don’t know that you can actually eat them. The Pufferfish’s ability to “blow up” and appear larger is its way of communicating to predators, “Hey, I’m bigger than you! Don’t mess with me!” But make no mistake, they’re all talk and no action. The Northern Pufferfish inhabits bays, estuaries and protected coastal waters at depths of 10-183 m along the Atlantic seaboard and this particular species is non-toxic, in contrast to many other kinds of blowfish. The firm, tender, white meat along its stiff backbone tastes so much like chicken that you just need to give it a try and see for yourself that the Northern Pufferfish is the REAL chicken of the sea.

Most of us omnivores eschew turkey tendons, the elastic strands that get in the way of a forkful of pure dark- or light-meat delight. For a team of Brown University researchers, however, these dinner discards are providing some new insights into how our bodies move and protect important muscle fibers.

High-impact activities, such as hiking down a mountain, can be hard on our muscles, as the hard shock of landings damages fibers (fascicles) during descent.

Muscles, however, are not acting alone, it turns out. “We used to think that all of the motion of the body could be explained from the action of our muscle motors,” Thomas Roberts, an associate professor of biology at Brown and co-author of the study, said in a prepared statement. “It is becoming increasingly apparent that springy tendons are a big part of what makes us go.” And what help us stop, according to the new turkey research, published online Tuesday in Proceedings of the Royal Society B.

Turkeys happen to have a similar muscle and tendon structure in their legs as humans do, even though their knees bend the opposite way. So the researchers dropped half a dozen wild turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo) and used high-speed sensors and cameras to observe their landings. How do you drop a 9.5-pound turkey, scientifically? The birds were placed in harnesses, lifted 1.5 meters into the air and then released (a height from which, the researchers noted, “the animals were able to land safely, repeatedly in a controlled fashion”). Foil strain gauges glued to turkey’s tendons were used to measure changes in muscle fibers 1,000 times a second via sonomicrometry.

The turkey landing data suggested that tendons can protect surrounding muscle fibers by taking in a good portion of the initial energy from a hard landing—then releasing it back to surrounding muscles more slowly.

“Something has to take up the slack, and it falls to the tendon,” Nicolai Konow, a postdoctoral research in ecology and evolutionary biology at Brown, and paper co-author, said in a prepared statement.

The process of landing turns out to be similar to what we already know about how the tendons and muscles work together to take off for a jump. When a person—or domestic fowl—jumps up, the power initially generated by the muscle is, in part, stored by the tendon, which provides the quick-release burst of energy. Just the opposite happens upon landing to dissipate the energy, the new findings suggest: “Power attenuation is similar to the familiar mechanisms of power amplification,” the research team wrote in their study. “In both cases, the tendon allows a separation in time of the muscular event and the movement event.” On the turkeys’ landings, the muscle fibers stiffened against the impact, sending energy to the tendon, which then released it some 2.4 times more slowly back to the muscle fibers.

The findings could have an impact, so to speak, on reconstructive tendon surgery as well as sports training, where the results might come as somewhat of a shock. After all, tendons are often thought of as the vulnerable links, owing in part to the major problems they can cause if they snap (think of poor Achilles). But perhaps we can think of the tendons as protectors, too. “We can say that in real ways, the muscle has a safety net with the tendon there protecting it,” Konow said.

Most hunters know how to remove choice cuts like the backstraps and tenderloins from deer. Fewer are as familiar with the legs, particularly the hindquarters.

This is a shame, as the rear legs offer fantastic cuts fit for various cooking styles. They’re also not as difficult to break down as many perceive.

First, if possible, hang the deer at least a day or two in cool temperatures to allow rigor mortis to subside. Also consider dry-aging before butchering. Done correctly in safe temperatures (33 to 40 degrees), it yields more tender and flavorful meat.

When it’s time to start cutting, use an area that provides ample space for the hindquarter and your tools. Consider a curved, semi-stiff boning knife and a straight, more flexible fillet knife for separating connective tissue and trimming. You also want a large cutting board, gloves, paper towels, a meat-storage container and plastic sheeting to cover the work surface and make cleanup easier.

There are two main ways to butcher a hindquarter: by removing the leg bone before separating the cuts or by taking individual cuts directly off the bone. Both are correct and often involve simply separating muscles along natural seams of connective tissue. I do better when removing the bone first, so I’ll focus on that method.

THE PROCESS

Step 1

Remove any hair, dirt, blood-shot and excess fat on the skinned hindquarter. All can contaminate meat and negatively affect flavor. Removing fat also helps reveal lines of connective tissue you’ll use to separate muscle groups.

Step 2

Remove the shank by slicing along the sinew lines between it and the round. Do this on both sides of the hindquarter with the tip of a boning knife. Cut the ligament opposite the shank. Then work the knife tip gently around the joint at the knee (not sawing at the bone) while using your offhand to move and apply pressure to the joint. Slowly, you’ll separate the shank from the round without needing a saw. If intended for grinding or stews, remove the shank meat from the bone.

Step 3

Set the round down with the inside facing up. The femur’s ball should be visible. Starting here, make a straight, shallow cut along the nearby seam down to the kneecap. You should feel the femur running beneath the tip of your knife.

Step 4

Cut on both sides of the kneecap and pull the meat back with your free hand. Continue cutting to expose the length of the femur. Work the blade tight around the bone’s contours, alternating cuts along both sides. Keep the blade flat against the curve of the bone, and don’t cut into the meat below. While holding the kneecap up with your offhand, cut below it and along the femur toward the ball until the entire bone is clear and comes free.

• READ MORE: 4 Steps to Field-Dress a Deer

Step 5

Pull the round apart with your hands. The still-connected individual cuts should lay flat on the cutting board in front of you. You’ll see a mass of connective tissue with a particularly thick concentration near the center of the round. Inside is a gland, which you should carefully remove by trimming the surrounding connective tissue. Left in place, it can taint the meat.

Step 6

Separate the cuts along connective tissue lines with your hands and knife tip. Seams are evident, so let nature be your guide. You should never have to cut into muscle. Trim excess fat and sinew, but leave the silverskin that surrounds muscles to protect meat during freezing. Leave cuts large to avoid exposing more meat to air.

THE CUTS

Larger cuts include the top and bottom rounds, eye of round and sirloin tip. You also have the sirloin butt (rump), tri-tip and shank. All are great in their own ways.

Top and Bottom Rounds

Pulled from the deer’s hamstring area, these cuts are quite versatile. They’re tender enough for cutting into steaks and hardy enough for making roasts or enduring low-and-slow cooking methods, like smoking or braising. Cube them into kabobs or slice thin for jerky or stir-fry. Or butterfly and pound them out for chicken-fried steak or jagerschnitzel.

• LEARN MORE: 15 of the Best Venison Sausage Recipes

Eye of Round

Called the hidden tenderloin because of its appearance, many cook them similarly. Pan-sear or grill whole, or as medallions. It’s also good as jerky or fajita meat, or it can be cured.

Sirloin Tip

Also called the sirloin, football or knuckle, the sirloin tip is tougher than the rounds but still makes great steaks, especially on young or aged deer. It’s perfect for a roast. Or it can be smoked, braised, ground up or turned into jerky.

Tri-Tip

A well-known beef cut, the tri-tip is mostly overlooked on venison hindquarters because of its small size and how it blends in with the sirloin tip. It’s great for flash-searing. Like tenderloins, lean toward rare and medium rare.

Sirloin Butt (Rump)

This cut’s size depends on how well you removed the hindquarter. It’s often small and used for pot roast, stew or grinding meat.

• MORE RECIPES: 10 Most Popular Venison Dishes

Shanks

Shanks get a bad rap. They’re tough, sinewy muscles that deer use often. Cooked improperly, they’re almost inedible. Cooked right—low and slow in liquid—they’re delicious. Shanks are perfect for osso bucco, braising on the bone or simmering in a broth to produce succulent stew meat.

SEAL THE DEAL

Should you use an external or a chamber vacuum sealer for meat storage?

The most common vacuum-sealing device is the external vacuum sealer. Place the open end of a sealer bag into a tray, clamp the lid down and suck air out of the bag. The other option is a chamber vacuum sealer. The entire bag goes inside the machine, and the sealer removes all air within the chamber—inside and outside the bag.

External vacuum sealers are inexpensive, and their design permits sealing larger cuts of meats. Chamber vacs excel at sealing liquids and other moist items. They’re great for marinating meats or for sous vide applications. They require more money upfront and are less portable.

With adjustable seal time and vacuum settings, and an integrated bag roll holder and cutter, the MEAT! Pro External Vacuum Sealer ($179.99; meatyourmaker.com) ups any hunter’s meat-preservation game. It’s also equipped with a removable drip tray for easy cleanup. For the hunter who freezes lots of meat or seals liquids often, there’s the MEAT! Chamber Vacuum Sealer ($799.99). This one also has adjustable seal time and vacuum settings, as well as a manual seal time mode. If you want professional-quality sealing, this is the ticket.

by Travis Sorokie and Brett McComas

Live-bait rigging with giant creek chubs and redtails is one of the best ways to snag a trophy fall walleye. When I say giant, I mean dragging around minnows up to 10” long, but most commonly in the 4-6” range. The bite’s just heating up now and should be phenomenal for a few more weeks.

You can catch fish all year doing this, but I really get excited for the big-minnow bite once the water has cooled down to 62 degrees…ideally 58-60. It stays good until temps hit 45 or so…after that the fish have already fed heavy for a couple of weeks and are now transitioning to winter patterns. You can still catch ‘em, just not nearly as many.

This time of year I hit the water as soon as I can be out there — especially in clear-water lakes. You’ll have your best shot at sticking a big fish during the typical low-light periods. Later in the fall you can sleep in [or get yard work done in the morning lol]. The bite will pick up later in the day after the water has a chance to warm up, and they’ll continue to bite all day.

Many weeds start to die off when the water temps drop below 68 degrees. That’s why you’ll notice piles of weeds floating around out there. A lot of the baitfish have pulled out of those dying weeds and are now schooled up in open water. The wind positions the baitfish on structure and the fish follow.

Pay attention to which direction the wind has been blowing from in the days leading up to your trip. Even fishing in deep water such as 35-50’ the fish will still typically be stacked on the windblown sides of underwater points, bars and breaks.

My rigging set-ups are 7’ medium-power rods with Pflueger reels. I’ll spool them with #6 smoke FireLine for my main line and tie on a 36-42” mono leader. The shorter leader allows the minnows to swim freely, while still keeping them in the strike zone.

Lighter leaders will absolutely get you more bites in clear water. Would say 6-lb test is probably the best all-around size, but you’d be surprised how many times I’ll drop down to a 4-lb leader [!] when fishing big, pressured fish that have seen it all.

On the business end of things you’ll want either a #1 or #2 Daiichi red hook (depending on minnow size). The red hook is a confidence thing for me…feel it gets me more bites. Pierce the minnow through its upper lip and it’ll stay alive for hours — or until the fish get to it.

One small key to my set-up is adding a red bead between my sinker and swivel. It adds a tiny bit of color and gives off a rattling sound when the bead and sinker hit. It also helps to protect your knot so you won’t need to retie as often.

Walleye prefer a larger minnow in the fall when the water temps are on the drop. It’s the 4-7″ redtails and creek chubs that seem to work best most days, but sometimes even bigger.

Why creek chubs and redtails? Because they’re hardy minnows that will often swim right along with the boat. There’s times you’ll actually feel them ‘getting excited’ down there the moment before a walleye smacks them.

You can catch the occasional fish on a sucker minnow, but they’re usually too lethargic for this technique and will end up being drug behind the boat [versus lively darting from side to side.]

I run a 1/2- to 1-oz egg sinker depending on minnow size, wind and depth. The 3/4-oz seems to be good all around, but I bump up to a 1-oz anytime I’m fishing 30’ or deeper. The bigger sinker also helps to anchor that minnow and keep it in the strike zone.

Egg sinkers because they’re super dense for their size and work perfect for this application. I’m not dragging them on bottom, I’m trying to fish the sinker like a jig — keeping it 6-18” off bottom and as vertical as possible. Occasionally drop it down to tap bottom and raise it back up.

Trolling between 0.3-0.8 mph covers most scenarios for pulling big minnows in the fall. When it’s calmer I’ll start off on the slow end of that to stay right over the tops of fish. If the wind is blowing there will be a current that seems to get everything moving down there [on the bottom] — that’s when I’ll pick up the speed.

When I’m pulling big 5-7” minnows I’ll drop the line as soon as I feel a hit and point the rod tip straight back — that way the fish feels as little resistance as possible [when pulling line out].

I start out giving them a 25-30 second count before I set the hook. It will seem like forever before you get used to it. I’ll even wait 35-40 seconds on days that they’re sluggish. That gives them more time to turn that minnow around in their mouth after they t-bone it.

A lot of guys do a low sweeping hookset, but I pick up the slack and set the hook straight up vertically. It helps to drive the hook right into the roof of its mouth. I feel it gives me a better hook-up percentage and lose less fish that I do have on.

I like tail-hooking chubs with a longer 5-7’ leader when the fish are a little more aggressive and feeding. The minnows struggle so much more when you tail hook ‘em — can actually feel that redtail get nervous and try to get away when a fish is near.

That’s when I’ll sometimes open my bail up and let the minnow go for 10 seconds…stop the line with my finger to feel if a walleye picked it up…lot of times they’ll chase the minnow down and smoke it.

Also find I have a better hook-up ratio when tail-hooking big minnows. Fish are gonna hit the chubs head first…so that hook is already in a good position to hook the fish in the top of the mouth…don’t need to let them take it as long when setting the hook.

Tends to work best when sitting right on top of fish or barely crawling along…otherwise the chubs will die more quickly from being pulled backwards.

Lot of folks hopped on the braided-line bandwagon and never left…BUT there’s times when mono can out-produce, out-catch and out-kick braid’s butt (lol).

Here’s tourney-nut Jake Caughey talkin’ why he runs mono when soaking big redtails and creek chubs for fall walleyes:

Here’s a video breakdown of my complete chubbin’ program (locations, gear, tweaks, etc) and some specifics to the tail-hooking trick that have saved my last couple of trips from picky biters. 👊 Hope you dig it!

Want to see more stuff like this? Sign up for the FREE Target Walleye emails — packed full of fishy goodness and sent straight to your inbox twice a week:

Crabbing is a great way to spend time on the water, and trot-lining is a very effective and fairly easy way to fill the bushel basket. Crabbing in my family started when I was very young, when I would go out with my dad and have a fun morning—and then an even better afternoon as we got to feast on the succulent crustaceans. Then I started my own business crabbing commercially for the past two summers. Here are 10 things I learned while trot-lining on the bay.

1. Don’t be afraid to pick up and move your line. Crabs are very depth- and bottom-oriented. If you’re not in the right area, you simply won’t catch crabs. Although moving the line may seem like a waste of time when you’re out on the water, if you’re only catching a crab or two that are keepers every run, it’s worth it to try a different depth. The type of bottom you’re over also plays a big role. If you notice that your trot line is flinging mud off your baits and you’re not catching crabs, go try a spot where you know there’s a shell bottom.

2. Use a heavy enough anchor. I highly recommend using mushroom anchors. Mushrooms are very easy to handle, can be dragged if necessary, and work on all bottoms. When buying your mushroom anchor, it’s crucial to choose an anchor heavy enough to stick on the bottom when you pick up the line to start running it. If your anchor is too light, you’ll drag it as the boat moves forward. This process will create lots of slack in your line, and will ruin that run—while also creating a problem (all that slack) that you need to fix. An anchor anywhere from seven to 10 pounds should do the trick. Although heavier anchors are harder to move around the boat, it is more important that you can run your trotline effectively.

3. Tighten or tie baits as tightly as possible to your line and snoods. Crabs are very tricky carnivorous devils. Whatever bait you are using, you should tie or tighten your snood as tightly as possible. On a good day of crabbing, especially if you are using chicken necks, after a couple of hours your baits will start to go missing. If you don’t tighten down the baits to your line to the full potential, even more will be missing. Crabs are able to dislodge baits from the line and they will scuttle away with it whenever possible, freeloaders taking that bait you paid for and painstakingly put on the line.

4. Use clips or carabineers at the ends of your main line. It’s great to use metal clips or carabineers for attachment points. They allow you to connect your anchor and float lines to your main line in a timely fashion. This will make setting out your line much easier, because all you must do is put a loop (at the end of your main line) in the clip and then you can keep feeding your line overboard. Also, this allows for easy storage of your anchors and floats because when pulling in the line you can simply unclip it and leave the rest of the rig on the boat until next time. When using a 1200 foot line it can be advantageous to have clips in the middle of your line, too. If you’re uncertain where crabs are going to be, you can split your trot line into two half-lines and lay them in different areas, to test where the crabs are.

5. At each end of mainline, use a short length of galvanized chain. This will ensure that the line is resting on the bottom, so crabs are able to locate the baits and hang on until the scooper is ready to attack. When using a long trot line, some people like to add another short length of chain in the middle.

6. Keep enough slack in the line. Although too much slack can ruin your run and impede on the operations, it’s crucial to make sure that your line is not too tight, either. In most cases it’s obvious when your line is too tight; it will be stretched out so you see baits a mile away, and in turn, you will watch as crabs drop the baits because they see what’s headed for them. If this is happening to you, it’s actually very easy to fix. Go to the end and grab the anchor line, pull it until you feel the anchor lift off the bottom, and then simply drop it back down. This will add a bit of slack into your line and after you run it a few times, the line should level out and run more effectively.

7. Work with the tide and wind, not against it. When it is a bit choppy or windy it can be very hard to crab. Try your best to set the line in a calmer area that’s sheltered from the wind. If you know where the crabs are but your spot is troubled by wind, it is crucial that you run your line with the wind at your back. By doing this you will avoid many troubles; going too slow while the wind pushes against your bow, not being able to control where your boat is going, and your bow crashing against the waves and scaring off crabs. Don’t worry too much about how this affects your speed, because as long as you remain at idle it’s rare to go fast enough to cause crabs to drop off, even with a strong wind at your back.

8. Judge soak-time by trot line length. How long you wait before you begin scooping crabs again, after finishing a run, depends on how long your line is. When using a 600 foot trot line, it’s important to let your baits sit for 10 minutes (give or take) before running it again. This is because with a shorter line you will run it faster, and there will be less time for the baits to rest on the bottom. If you’re using a 1200 foot trotline, however, by the time you finish your run the first baits you scooped on have already been resting on the bottom for a while so you can go back to the start and run it right away. If crabbing is really hot, even with a shorter line you should start a new run quickly—in some cases the crabs will just eat off your baits, if you give them any extra time.

9. Use a wire-mesh net. Using a nylon or cotton mesh net is a very common mistake for beginner crabbers. Making an investment into a nice wire-mesh net is very important and will lead to a lot less frustration down the road. When using a nylon or cotton net, the crabs will get stuck in the mesh much easier or the mesh will tangle in the line. You have a lot less control with the mesh, and in turn will miss more crabs.

10. Try your best not to cast a shadow over your trot line. When running the line on a bright day, it’s important that you run the trot line in a direction so that your shadow doesn’t cast over top your line. If the sun is to your back and a shadow appears over your line, the crabs will see it and let go of the baits before you have time to scoop them. It may mean changing the direction you run the line in or even how you have your trot line laid out, but either way, eliminating that shadow will mean catching more crabs.

The more you go and do it, the more crabs you will catch. Every boat and every trot line is a little bit different, and it may take a season or two to get the trot-lining process down with confidence. But scooping crabs as you watch the sunrise is very relaxing—and eating crabs as you watch the sunset may even be better.

– by Max Rudow

Want to learn how to go trot lining from a kayak? Check out this video:

If your doggo loves to swim, a dog ramp is a must accessory for your boat! Be it taking your dogs out for a good time, a swim, or hunting, you’d definitely want to make their experience as comfortable and safe for them, wouldn’t you?

As much as you love your pet, it will definitely hurt your pocket to spend money on commercial dog ramps. The good news is that you can DIY your dog a functional boat ramp using affordable supplies all by yourself. And, the love and care you put into the DIY process is an added bonus!

Okay, so where do you start? You start by selecting a trustworthy tutorial for you to replicate. Here are 15 brilliant DIY dog ramps for boat ideas for you to choose from!

1. DIY Floating Boat Ramp Pool Ramp or Dock Ramp for Dogs

In this Youtube tutorial, Jennifer Turner elaborates to you on how she DIYed a floating boat ramp for her doggo for under $100. The supplies this DIY requires are two anti-fatigue mats, jumbo noodles, zip ties, and a nylon rope.

For those interested, this is the first part of the tutorial, and in this second part, she shares heartwarming footage of her dog getting used to its new homemade dog ramp.

2. Dog boat ladder instructions.

Cocozoo has shared a fantastic idea of building a dog ladder for a boat. He used 1.5’’ ABS pipe and a pine board for the purpose of this DIY. He further mentions that you can use a 1’’ pipe if your doggo weighs relatively lighter.

You might have plenty of queries regarding this project, don’t you? To your rescue, the user has even shared a plan along with his build experience. All your queries will most likely be answered there!

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3. DIY Dog Ramp

Internet is truly a fantastic place! Here’s another forum on DUCKhunting Chat where the user named Honkin shares his dog ramp build details with the rest of the users.

He used a 1’’X6’’ aluminum tubing with 12 inches inside diameter for the frame and a 12’’X12’’ interlocking sport court for the decking.

The reviews on this thread are rave. If you follow this idea, please let us know in the comments how did it work out for you.

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4. How to build a DIY Pet Ramp Start to Finish – Includes complete Drawings and Instructions!

Follow this DIY tutorial by James Mark Konstruction to build a dog ramp that helps your dog to climb up and down not only a boat but any other raised surfaces such as a car, couch, or bed.

Luckily, this tutorial features all the drawings, plans, and step-by-step instructions for this DIY project. Also, if you’d like to read a written instruction, the Youtuber has shared the drive link in the comment section. Hope it helps!

5. DIY DOCK & BOAT RAMP FOR DOGS

5 pool noodles, 2 anti-fatigue floor mats, 42 plastic zip ties, 2 big carabiners, and 6 feet rope – these are the supplies you need to build a brilliant DIY dock and boat ramp for dogs.

If you have all these supplies gathered, read this written tutorial by HALIFAX DOGVENTURES to construct the ramp.

All the steps are briefly described using documented images for your ease. This DIY looks incredible! Everyone in the comment section seems to be quite impressed by this idea.

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6. Dog Ramp for a Dock or Pool

Save hundreds of dollars on a dock or a pool dog ramp by following this easy tutorial by Eric Hurst. The Youtuber explains every step of this DIY project in detail.

He has further cleared his viewer’s confusion in the comment section and has shared more advice regarding the topic. Make sure you check them out! You might find your queries answered there.

Also, there’s a suggestion in the comment pointing out how the use of PVC instead of wood would result in a better product. What do you think of that?

7. HOW TO BUILD A DOG WATER RAMP FOR A BOAT

Are you a beginner at building a dog boat ramp? If yes, this post by Marine Waterline is perfect for you! From choosing the right material to budgeting to the description of each step in detail, you’ll find all the information you need in this blog.

Marine Waterline further has a range of amazing blogs and DIYs on boating, fishing, kayaking, and a variety of water sports. Do check them out if you’re into such stuff!

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8. Hobie Tandem Island DIY Dog Ramp by Rockin Robin Sails

Rubber mats, PVC, and life jackets – if you have these supplies handy with you, here’s the perfect tutorial for you! This dog ramp is two-layered, where the bottom level stays below the water surface, making it easy for your doggo to climb.

Especially if you own a Hobie Tandem Island, you need not make any changes to this DIY. Everyone in the comment section is applauding this video. Make sure you give it a watch!

9. Pool and Boat Dog Ramp Questions and Answers

If this is your first time planning to DIY a dog boat ramp, this question and answer post by Make And Build Dog Stuff will help you immensely. From DIY ideas and plans to clear some common doubts regarding the DIY, this post is a must-read for those aiming to build a boat or dock ramp for their dogs.

What’s more, this site features plenty of other useful DIY projects for proud dog parents. We guarantee it will be of great help to you!

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10. How to Make a Dog Ramp for a Pontoon Boat: 7 Ladder Ideas

This post by PONTOONopedia consists of not one but 7 brilliant DIY dog ramps for a pontoon boat idea.

From a sleek aluminum and stainless-steel metal ladder that requires professional metalworking skills to a simple DIY utilizing a rubber drainage mat and a few bungee cords, this post has covered it all!

However, remember that this is not a step-by-step DIY tutorial and, therefore, is only appropriate for those who are seeking ideas that they can bring into action.

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11. Homemade boat ladder for you and your dog (small boat)

This ingenious DIY boat ladder idea will leave you speechless! All you need is a used two-step stool, 2 hooks and 2 sets of stainless screw, nut, a few tools, and 30 minutes of work time to complete this DIY.

The hook on top of the ladder perfectly clicks with the boat hull, eliminating any need to permanently attach the ladder or a ramp to the boat, making it perfectly portable.

What’s more, this DIY is not only applicable for your dog but equally great for you when the situation demands it!

12. The Joy of Dog Boat Ramps

By now, if you’ve realized that DIYing a dog ramp is not for you and you’d rather choose to go with a commercial option, this post by Crownline is a must-read!

It features details including specifications and cost for Paws Aboard and Skamper-Ramp. Analyze the pros and cons and figure out the best dog ramp for your animal friend. We hope this blog helps!

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13. How A Duck Dog Should Ride In a Boat

While this is not a dog ramp for boat tutorial, this video by Bodie Drake surely is a must-watch for those who are always accompanied by their dog friends during their boating journey, especially if it’s a duck dog.

Watch this video to educate yourself on how you should train your duck dog to ride the boat such that they can transform into fantastic hunters. The Youtuber shares pretty solid tips and tricks in this video. Do check it out!

14. Boat Projects: Ramps For Dogs

This blog by LakeExpo not only features some of the best commercially available dog ramps but also has information on how you can DIY a dog ramp at the end of the blog.

For instance, you can use an aluminum extension ladder as a framework for the purpose. Not sure how exactly to repurpose an aluminum extension ladder into a dog ramp? Read the blog to find out!

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15. The 5 Best Dog Ramps and Ladders for Boats

While dog ramp DIYs are affordable and many of them don’t even require you to have expert handyman skills, let’s admit, some of us are definitely having conflicting thoughts on whether to DIY a dog ramp or to avoid all the efforts by simply buying a commercially available one.

Well, if you’re having second thoughts, here’s the latest list of best dog ramps and ladders available on the market.

Summary

From the idea that uses an old unused ladder to ones that use cost-effective supplies, we’ve got all types of dog ramps tutorials listed for you in this post.

We’ve further listed a few commercial dog ramps reviews for those having second thoughts. Now, the choice is yours! And in case you DIY a dog ramp, we’d definitely love to know your experience.