Duck hunting dogs, also called gun or bird dogs, are truly set apart from other dogs. Bred and raised specifically for duck hunting, these dogs have different personalities from other dogs-and fittingly, they should have different names from other dogs!

But the tricky question is: what should you name your duck hunting dog? In this article, we’ll break down 100 of the best dog hunting dog names for your hunting companion.

Check out these other articles: 10 Hunting Dogs That Don’t Shed and Strong Female Dog Names.

Boy Duck Hunting Dog Names

Whether you’re looking for pointer, golden retriever, or black lab duck hunting dog names, there are many available options for male duck hunting dogs. This list reflects the variety of names for boy duck hunting dogs, from the fierce to the friendly.

1. Ace – First on our list of duck dog names, this is a great name for a dog who seems adept at just about everything.
2. Captain – For a natural-born leader.
3. Trooper – For a dog who can weather any storm.
4. Dodger – Great for a dextrous and agile dog.
5. Hunter – An on-the-nose name for an excellent duck dog.
6. Killer – For a dog that seems extra eager about duck hunting.
7. Trapper – For a clever and witty hunting dog.
8. General – For an older dog who can lead a pack.
9. Commander – For a dog with a naturally commanding presence.
10. Marshall – Great when a dog exudes power and authority.
11. Leader – Ideal if your dog is ready to take the helm on a hunting trip.
12. Stalwart – For a dog that’s loyal to you to the end.
13. Speed – One of many cool duck hunting dog names for agile dogs.
14. Bourbon – Great if your favorite thing after a hunt is to kick back with your dog and a drink.
15. Bud – For a true friend-or a dog who likes to drink Bud Light.
16. Charger – For a dog who’s maybe a little more enthusiastic than intelligent.
17. Coffee – A great name for a dog who’ll be with you at the crack of dawn.
18. Bull – One of many great duck dog names for labs.
19. Scout – For a hunting dog with stamina and agility.
20. Sport – For a young, enthusiastic dog.
21. Rogue – Best suited to a dog that follows its own rules.
22. Ranger – Ideal for a dog that seems completely at home in the wilderness.
23. Glory – If you think your dog is poised for success, this name could be a good luck charm.
24. Bolt – For a dog that can speed off and bring back a duck in no time.
25. Fighter – For a dog with spunk.

Girl Duck Hunting Dog Names

There’s an equally rich cache of cute hunting dog names for female duck hunting dogs.

1. Dancer – Ideal for a graceful and agile dog.
2. Fidelity – For a dog who will always stay by your side.
3. Loyalty – Another name for a duck dog that is your ultimate partner.
4. Faith – A name for a duck hunting dog that you can trust.
5. Freedom – A dog that seems to belong in the wild deserves this name.
6. Mistress – For a dog with an air of authority.
7. Lady – For a dog that seems like she could be a royal.
8. Huntress – For a dog that is perfectly suited to her job.
9. Amazon – For a dog that’s commanding, authoritative, and a master hunter.
10. Grace – For a dog that is poised and in control.
11. Rose – A great name for a dog that’s beautiful as well as deadly.
12. Liberty – A patriotic name for a hunting dog.
13. Luster – For a dog with a shimmering coat.
14. Vixen – For a dog well-suited to the wild.
15. Willow – A name for a dog as sturdy as a tree.
16. Goldenrod – For a dog whose fur is light and shiny.
17. Hope – When all else seems lost, this dog will come through for you.
18. Rebel – For a dog who you can’t get under control.
19. Witch – For a dog who’s rambunctious-for ducks and you!
20. Enchantress – For the dog who always attracts everyone’s attention.
21. Bard – For a dog that’s extra vocal.
22. Tulip – Great for a younger, more delicate hunting dog.
23. Angel – For a dog that’s always on the ball-or an ironic name for a perpetual troublemaker.
24. Kestrel – For a dog that’s a natural-born hunter.
25. Glamor – A great name for a pooch with pride.

Hunting Dog Names Based on Nature

Do you want to give your duck hunting dog a name that draws on the rich symbolism of the natural world while still evoking their hunting vocation? Check out this list.

1. Thunder – To reflect a booming presence.
2. Lightning – If they can run this way and that in a flash.
3. Peak – For a dog that’s the pinnacle of hunting.
4. Cloud – For a light-colored or mysterious dog.
5. River – If your dog moves fluidly like running water.
6. Sunburst – For a bombastic and excitable dog.
7. Bear – For a big, furry dog.
8. Wolf – To remind you of their wild heritage.
9. Birch – To reflect the stalwart integrity of the tree.
10. Acorn – For a smaller dog you’re nourishing since birth.
11. Basil – For a dog with a little spice.
12. Tiger – A feline name that connotes wildness and ferocity.
13. Falcon – Great for a fast, graceful dog.
14. Thistle – Beautiful, but dangerous.
15. Shark – For a dog that’s out for blood-duck blood.
16. Hammerhead – For a dog that loves to hunt but maybe isn’t the smartest.
17. Sawgrass – If you’re hunting in Florida, this botanical name is perfect.
18. Oak – For a dog that’s big, dark, and sturdy.
19. Rainbow – For a dog that seems to lighten up the place wherever they go.
20. Typhoon – For a dog that’s an unstoppable force of nature.
21. Bramblepelt – Good name for a dog that’s not afraid to get down and dirty.
22. Briar – For a dog ready to dive into the depths to get its quarry.
23. Snow – Great for a pale, mysterious hunter.
24. Midnight – Ideal for a dog that moves in silence.
25. Storm – The opposite: for a dog that loves to make noise.

Names for Hunting Dogs Based on History and Culture

One of the best ways to decide on a dog name is to draw from hunters (or the hunted) in history and culture). Check out some of these:

1. Nimrod – Despite the connotation of stupidity, this is actually the name of a famed biblical hunter.
2. Elmer – After dopey-but-eager hunter Elmer Fudd.
3. Orion – After the constellation and the Greek mythological hunter on which it’s based.
4. Rexxar – Perfect for fans of the Warcraft franchise.
5. Daffy – An ironic name based on the Looney Tunes duck.
6. Herne – A ghost hunter from English folklore.
7. Geralt – The legendary monster hunter from the Witcher books, video games, and TV series.
8. Artemis – After the Greek goddess of the hunt, who notably turned the hunter Actaeon into a stag and had her dogs hunt him.
9. Diana – Named after the Roman counterpart to Artemis.
10. Robin – After the bird and folkloric bowman Robin Hood, or the DC Comics superhero Robin.
11. Pan – After the Greek god of wilderness and hunters.
12. Hubertus – After the patron saint of hunters.
13. Thor – After the superhero and Norse mythological powerhouse.
14. Bloodsport – The gun-toting hero of The Suicide Squad.
15. Daisy – Another ironic name: Daisy Duck.
16. Donald – Based on Disney’s Donald Duck. Especially great if you aren’t a particular fan of Disney or have a sense of humor.
17. Scrooge – Based on the character from Disney comics and DuckTales.
18. Huey – The first of three brothers in DuckTales.
19. Dewey – The blue-hat-wearing brother in DuckTales.
20. Louie – The DuckTales brother who rocks a green outfit.
21. Davy – Based on the folk hero and real-life man Davy Crocket.
22. Teddy – Based on American president and naturalist Theodore Roosevelt.
23. Mighty – After the film The Mighty Ducks and the corresponding hockey team.
24. Wolverine – After Marvel Comics’ famous wildman superhero.
25. Lon – Named after Lon Chaney, star of The Wolfman.

Conclusion for Duck Hunting Dog Names

If your dog is going to be a duck hunter, you’ll want to give them an appropriate name. Remember to keep their name short, easy to pronounce, and not similar to any of your family. We hope you enjoyed our list of the best duck hunting dog names and found something for your puppy!

Other articles you would like:

• Are Goldendoodles Good Hunting Dogs?
• Best Hypoallergenic Hunting Dogs
• Best Shock Collar for Hunting Dogs

When we tested the Mantis Blackbeard Trigger Reset System, it was a high-performing item for anyone looking to get more rifle practice without spending a ton of money. A system that replaces the bolt carrier group and magazine of most AR-15 rifles, the Blackbeard allows the user to not alter the trigger pull of their weapon, and have visual feedback of where the “round” goes. The system consists of the bolt carrier replacement, which can house an adjustable laser and which also contains a motor that resets your trigger, as well as a battery pack that fits into the magazine well of the rifle like a normal magazine. To complement this, the Blackbeard can be used with the Mantis Laser Academy app, which allows for virtual target scoring for drills and games. Overall, for rifle training, it’s hard to outdo the Mantis Blackbeard, especially for indoor close-quarter training situations.

The Mantis Blackbeard excels in close-quarters rifle training, operating as a simple drop-in kit to give you realistic trigger reset. The biggest advantage to this is that it’s totally safe, due to making your rifle completely inoperable when properly installed, which means that you can theoretically use this for force-on-force or live hostage rescue. It’s also totally platform agnostic as long as you use an AR platform rifle, meaning you can use it with a Smith & Wesson M&P 15 or a military issue M4 with no extra steps. The biggest advantage, however, is that it lets you keep your trigger pull, meaning that if you’re like my friend, you can drop this into your super-expensive Radian Model 1 or LMT MARS (he has both) and appreciate the improved trigger pull that both bring with dry fire and with live fire. In my own testing, the Blackbeard greatly assisted with trigger control training, getting into a good rhythm of pressing and releasing the trigger, preventing short stroking.

The Blackbeard has no recoil or force feedback, and basically just functions as a trigger reset device and laser projector. This isn’t like the CoolFire on our list that actually provides force feedback, or the SIRT pistol, so you won’t get that simulated recoil impulse. Another thing is that even if you do use the app, it doesn’t track things like weapon or trigger control, so you won’t get the same input that you get with the Mantis X on this list. Finally, the app that you need to get training metrics from, Mantis Laser Academy, is extremely temperamental. It costs a fair chunk of money, doesn’t work in daylight, requires a tripod to use, and needs extensive setup to work properly, making this a decidedly indoor dry fire training system.

The Mantis Blackbeard is a laser trainer and trigger reset system that converts any rifle into a training rifle, and for those purposes, it’s nearly perfect. Allowing shooters to conduct dry fire training with their actual trigger pull, and without requiring them to manually reset the hammer, is extremely helpful, and the issues with not tracking motion and trigger control can be solved by adding a Mantis X device to the rifle to work in conjunction, although that lowers the value proposition significantly.

So you are in the market for a red dot? Well, it’s not as simple as telling you which is the best red dot sight to buy, or you wouldn’t be on the hunt!

There are many red dots available and while we won’t be able to give you a simple: buy this sight for your gun.

We will provide you with unbiased feedback on as many red dot sights as we can get out hands-on. This post will be forever updated and changed as optics are introduced and/or discontinued.

We want to keep you up to date on red dots because we LOVE red dots.

Best Budget Red Dot Sights

The internet is full of financial shamers. What does that mean? Post your budget AR build in an AR-15 Facebook group, and you’ll immediately be called poor.

That’s stupid.

Lynx Defense is a premium gear manufacturer and what some would call expensive.

But we will never insult someone for buying what they can afford. We hope it’s our products, but we want people to love firearms and gear as much as we do at the end of the day.

People have families, and money doesn’t grow on trees, so obviously, you want to get the most bang for your buck out of whatever you buy, including your gun’s red dot sight.

Let me be clear there is a difference in quality budget red dots and cheap red dots. We will not be including any cheap red dot sights because they are not quality optics.

So let’s dive in. These will not be in order, so read through each one and determine what’s best for you.

Sig Romeo5

The Sig Romeo 5 red dot sight is one of the most popular red dot sights of 2022. The reason for that is actually pretty obvious when you take a deep look into the Sig Romeo5. We even conducted a full Sig Romeo 5 review.

First and foremost, the price point is fantastic.

Currently, the Sig Romeo 5 is $114.99 on Amazon.

With that price comes a quality red dot for the price—the Romero5 features over 40,000 hours of battery life on the medium setting.

The MOTAC feature is great to save battery life, and the fact it is IPX-7 waterproof rated makes this a top-notch red dot sight for the price.

This red dot pairs great with any length AR-15 or pistol-caliber carbine. I ran my Sig Romeo5 on my Sig Sauer Copperhead. It now lives on my EPC-9 carbine.

Sig Sauer MSR and Juliet 3 Micro Magnifier

Next up is also a Sig Sauer product but with a little flair.

The Sig Sauer MSR by itself is a decent optic but with the extremely reasonable price of the MSR and Juliet 3 Micro Magnifier, you get a fantastic package for a great price.

The magnifier Romeo-MSR combo adds the ability to get extra distance out of your red dot sight and makes it an extremely attractive option.

Bushnell TRS-25

The Bushnell TRS-25 is probably the least expensive red dot sight on the market. It’s the cheapest red dot sight I’d be comfortable recommending to people.

Many people are drawn to the Bushnell TRS-25 because it’s an extremely affordable red dot sight.

Amazon regularly has these for around $50-$70 and actually has a pretty decent set of features.

The TRS-25 comes with a 1913 rise block included, which really makes this a bang for your buck.

If your funds are tight and you need a decent optic for the least amount of money possible, grab the TRS-25.

This is an optic you can buy and not feel bad about buying a new optic later and not waste a ton of money.

Don’t go any cheaper than this optic. This is the bottom of the acceptable optic list.

Holosun HS-403B

If you are looking for a decent middle-of-the-road optic, look no further than the Holosun HS-403B a feature-packed sub $200 red dot sight.

This might be the best red for sight for your AR-15! But, let us take a look at why it may be the best optic for you.

The Holosun HS403B is a compact optic with an included riser mount. The only catch is if you don’t like the height of the mount you are stuck with it unless you purchase another mount.

If you are looking for a red dot sight that’s ready to go this is definitely a good option for you.

There are other Holosun optics that I like a little better due to their similar price and increased feature set.

Primary Arms SLx MD-25 Gen 2

The Primary Arms SLx MD-25 is a 2MOA dot that is near perfect for almost any rifle.

The ACSS Reticle in the SLx MD-25 has to be one of my favorite reticles. It incorporates the chevron and the horseshoe design to top off the near-perfect combo.

If you are on the hunt for a feature-rich optic that comes with an included mount that packs some quality don’t skip on the PA SLx MD-25.

The battery life for this optic is exceptional and the included riser is near perfect. You can read our Primary Arms SLx MD-25 review in our review section.

Primary Arms SLx 1X MicroPrism

One of the best optics going into the New Year is the PA SLx 1x Micro Prism sight. This thing is small, hence “micro” prism, but it packs a punch!

I absolutely love mine and have run it on a number of guns. I even did a full review of the 1 x Micro Prism.

The best part of the PA SLX 1x Micro Prism is the price and feature set. The fact it has 45,000 hours of battery life and comes in under $300 is incredible.

The overall build quality of the optic is fantastic and if you want something that will make your good look fantastic, this will definitely do that.

If you want the best AR-15 red dot sight grab the SLx with the Cyclops reticle!

Best Overall Budget Red Dot Sight

I’m not in the business of telling people what will work best for them. This country is all about individuals determining what’s best for them.

I’m just trying to provide you with my feedback and help you come to a decision.

So here’s a hypothetical list of things to consider when deciding what budget red dot sight to buy.

• Size
• Weight
• Field of View
• Battery Life
• Reticle
• Features (Shake Awake, included mount, etc.)

So, while it would be nice just to paste a picture of the best overall budget red dot sight, it’s hard to say. Personally, I think the best overall budget red dot sight available right now is the Sig Romeo 5.

An up and company called AT3 also has a decent budget red dot sight called the AT3 RD-50 Pro.

Best High-End Red Dot Sights

High-end red dot sights are all the rage on the Gram! After all, who doesn’t love rocking the best?

I know I do, and I’ve had my fair share of top-tier red dot sights. I really stick to three of my favorites.

Here are the top high-end red dot sights

EOTech HWS XPS2

The EOTech HWS is one of the most popular high-end red dot sight.

But it’s slightly more than just your average red dot. More than average, why you ask?

It’s holographic!

But what does holographic mean? Well, I’m glad you asked.

Basically, without getting all scientific, a holographic weapon sight keeps the reticle positioned in an exact area of the glass. So if you move the weapon left or right, the reticle will stay on target.

This allows for accurate shooting even while moving or if something is blocking your optics viewports, such as snow or dirt.

The EOTech HWS XPS2 is my go-to red dot sight if money is not an issue.

I like how the EOTech looks on my guns, and the function and ease of use are top-tier.

Trijicon MRO

The Trijicon MRO came onto the scene in 2015 and has been making the climb to the top ever since.

Trijicon is already a well-known sight and optic manufacturer. I personally run their night sights on my Glock 19.

While most people will know the name because of the Trijicon ACOG optic.

MRO stands for Miniature Rifle Optic, and while it’s not the smallest on the block, it’s still smaller than some of its other counterparts, like the EOTech series.

I like the MRO. It’s purpose-built and rugged.

The Trijicon MRO isn’t trying to be something it’s not.

It’s a small package with a wide field of view. The battery life is an impressive 5 years on the medium setting.

The MRO has been put through several torture tests and came through with flying colors.

The mounting options are endless, and from the factory, it comes with several options: no mount, 1/3 co-witness, and full co-witness.

Aimpoint Micro T-2

The Aimpoint Micro H-1 and I go way back. I feel like I’ve got to say this. The H-1 is like your high school prom date. All pretty, dressed up, ready to go out and possibly make some mistakes and get lucky, who knows.

The Aimpoint Micro T-2 is the new hotness so buy it if you’re looking for an Aimpoint Micro. I run my Micro H-1 on the Battle Arms Development rifle pictured below.

Anyway. I purchased the Aimpoint Micro H-1 after owning the EOTech 512 for some time. If you know anything about the EOTech 512, it’s bulky.

So getting the H-1 really changed things up a bit. It was a slim, compact red dot sight that I loved right off the bat.

What’s the best red dot sight?

Picking the best optic for you is essential. It’s hard to choose because there are so many options, but first and foremost, you want to narrow down your price range.

Once you do that, you can start to narrow in on what optics are in that price range that will work for you.

Then, you can look at things like reticles and features such as shake awake, weight, and battery life.

Once you have your price range, you can break down and analyze what red dot sight is going to work for you.

Ultimately, the most important thing is choosing what’s best for you, not what some biased reviewer will recommend.

At Lynx Defense, we try to give unbiased reviews, but of course, we can only really comment on the red dot sights that we’ve used. The ones included in this article are the ones that we’ve got our hands on so far.

Now, of course, we’re in an endless battle to try to get more, how we can bring them to you, and try to review them.

How to pick the best red dot for you?

Picking the best red dot for you is probably one of the hardest questions you’ll ask yourself during your search for a sight.

The fact of the matter is that you’ve probably already decided to get a red dot sight.

There are so many options that you could get an LVPO, a red dot, a holographic weapon sight, or just run iron sights.

It really comes down to what will work best for you and your specific use case or mission.

I think it’s imperative to look at all of your options.

Again, as I’ve stated, it’s important to look at your price range, start from there, and narrow down your options.

After you have a price range, it’s pretty easy to find the high end of your price range, the mid-tier, and then the low end. But to figure out what’s truly just marketing nonsense and what’s a fact, you really want to go to somebody you can trust.

The internet is full of reviews. However, you never know who you can trust or who’s just trying to make a dollar. So a full disclaimer, Lynx Defense has obviously created links throughout this entire post. This entire post has pictures, optics, and links to all the different places across the web you can buy them. Most of those links are affiliate links. We make a small commission based on what you buy if you use our link to get there. Now, basically, what that entails is if we provided you with helpful information, it’s just a reward for us but doesn’t cost you a dime more.

We review all of our optics fairly and give them a fair shake. We are not beholding to any company for any reason under any circumstance. That’s why you’ll see we’ll link to Amazon, to Primary Arms, to EOTech. It doesn’t matter to us. We will link to them if it’s relevant.

We don’t care if you buy using our links or not. So, keep in mind when you’re looking at reviews, and you constantly see the same site or person push the same company over and over again, they could be getting paid for those reviews.

We hear all the time, “I bought this because X, Y, Z influencer said, this was the optic to buy.” When in reality, it didn’t fit their needs at all.

Then they ended up being unhappy with their purchase. That’s not at all what we aim to do here at Lynx Defense. We educate, and then you make the decision based on your needs.

This is why we’re so committed to this particular article and keeping it up to date year after year, month after month, as new optics become available and as we were able to get our hands on new optics.

Obviously, we don’t get a chance to test every single model of every single configuration of every optic ever made.

That would be awesome.

But unfortunately, we don’t have the time or the financial resources to really make that happen.

I really don’t know anybody who does.

So, of course, this post will be somewhat biased in that these are the ones we’ve got our hands on thus far.

These are what we recommend. We’re also going to tell you, that we don’t recommend going below a certain point.

For example, the Bushnell TRS-25 is pretty much the bottom. We don’t recommend going anything below that.

No optic that’s just total plastic, without any metal, it’s out the door.

Anything below the $50, $60, or $70 price point of the Bushnell TRS-25 is a no-go for us.

So keep in mind we’re not going to recommend low quality at all. No matter how cheap it is.

We’re not trying to make a buck. We’re trying to educate.

If we can get rewarded for the time we have invested for this by using the affiliate, awesome, but all we really want is for you to learn something from our work.

Red Dot Sight Reticle Options

Red dot sights have many different reticles, and most of the time, the one that is “best” boils down to your personal preference.

There are different schools of thought that some are better than others for target acquisition, but I won’t go down that road.

Single Red Dot

The single dot reticle is just that, a single dot. That dot can range in MOA and crispness.

Low-end optics could see a lot of distortion around the dot, whereas high-quality optics should have a crisp and clean dot.

The dot can range anywhere from 1-6 MOA.

Circle Red Dot

Circle dots reticles have a circle around the center dot.

These have much faster target acquisitions since you can place your target in the circle for faster but less precise hits.

Personally, this is one of my favorite reticles.

Ranging

Ranging reticles don’t have a standard look. They can vary in shape and size, and function. But the purpose of them remains the same, and they help you adjust your optic for shooting longer or shorter range.

You don’t see this reticle often in AR-15 red dot sights.

Multi Red Dot

Multi-dot reticles are pretty much what they sound like, multiple dots. Typically, multiple dot reticles are used for ranging.

The top dot could be sighted in for 50 or 100 yards, and then you would be able to determine what your bottom dot would be at 150 – 200 yards.

These reticles are popular in EoTech HWS (holographic weapon sights).

Horseshoe/Dot

The horseshoe dot reticle is similar to the circle dot reticle. The minor difference of the circle is open at the bottom creates a horseshoe instead of a complete circle.

Like the ACSS-CQB reticle from the Primary Arms MD-25 above, the center dot is a chevron and not a plain dot. The horseshoe/dot reticles can interchange the center dot and over have ranging dots below the larger center dot.

Crosshair

The crosshair reticle is also not a common red dot reticle. These are typically found in magnification scopes. Some lower-end optics, like NcStar, feature these types of reticles.

Chevron

Chevron reticles look like an up arrow without the tail. This is a reticle popularized by the Trijicon ACOG optic.

What is an MOA Dot?

You often see MOA, which means “minutes of angle,” all over red dot optics product pages.

MOA is a unit of measurement of a circle and is used to determine the size of the dot and how much it will cover your sight picture at a specific distance.

MOA dots usually are between 2 – 6 MOA, and the smaller the number, the less the dot will cover your target.

Other Optic Options

If you are set on a red dot sight the above options are probably the best. But are you interested in other optics?

Low Power Variable Optic (LVPO)

If you are looking for something more than a red dot you might want to get a Low Power Variable Optic (LVPO) like the Vortex Strike Eagle.

Best Red Dot Sight for Astigmatism

Red dot sights can be hell for someone with astigmatism. The dot won’t be crisp and you’ll have difficulty acquiring targets and having a positive shooting experience.

I’ve found that prism optics are probably your best bet when it comes to astigmatism.

My current favorite Prism optic is the Primary Arms SLx 1x Micro Prism.

Iron Sights

If you want to have a more manual optic you can get backup flip-up sights in case your battery dies or the optic fails.

If you want to accessorize your new AR-15 further, read our best AR-15 Flashlight, AR-15 Drum Magazine Guide, and the Best Tactical Flashlight.

This year, we decided to breed our sow, Boo, with Duroc genetics. Boo is a mixture of Tamworth and Berkshire genes, which in the past has led to piglets that are fast-growing, vigorous, and, I might add, quite cute to look at!

We wanted to give a new breed of pigs a try this year, however. We decided to go with Durocs. Durocs have a reputation for being some of the hardiest and quickest-growing pigs around.

Here’s what you need to know about the Duroc pig breed. That way, you can decide whether it’s right for you and your farm.

About Duroc Pigs

A red pig with drooping ears, the Duroc is a wonderful breed to consider if you are interested in raising market pigs.

It is the second most common breed of pig in the US.

Most Durocs will be a deep mahogany color, as ours were, but you might also find some that are a pale yellow or gold color.

History of the Duroc Pig Breed

They were first bred in the early 1800s in New Jersey and New York. The original parents of the Duroc were red pigs from either state.

The pig is believed to get its red color from the Berkshire pig. The Berkshire is a breed that is now black but was once a rust color, similar to the modern Duroc. Some people also believe that the Duroc contains genetics that can be traced to the Guinea coast of Africa.

A very large pig, the Red Hog quickly rose to popularity for its massive size and its ability to produce large litters of piglets that grew exceptionally fast.

These Red Hogs were eventually bred into the Duroc-Jersey and what is today known as the Duroc. However, the breed wasn’t renamed until 1823.

In 1823, a man named Isaac Frink of Milton, NY raised a red boar of this lineage. It was prized for its carcass quality, growth rate, quiet disposition, and broad shoulder and ham areas.

Though smaller than many of the earlier pigs in this line that came out of New Jersey, it ultimately had a much better carcass quality. He named the breed the Duroc in honor of his famous Thoroughbred stallion, Duroc.

Eventually, the original Jersey line and this new Saratoga-based line were crossed to create a hog that was well-suited for the vast majority of farmers.

It was formally recognized in the creation of the American Duroc-Jersey Association in 1883 (renamed the United Duroc Swine Registry) in 1934.

The breed of choice for a large percentage of American farmers, the Duroc is also a good choice for the modern homestead.

Characteristics of Duroc Pigs

Although the Duroc is not the largest breed of pig you will find to raise on your farm, it is still nothing short of impressive. The average weight of a fully mature boar is close to 900 pounds, while a sow will be around 800 pounds.

With drooping ears, it’s easy to pick this pig out of a line-up of other pigs, most of which have erect ears instead.

As I mentioned earlier, most Duroc pigs will be a deep red in color. However, some are much lighter or even golden or orange in their appearance. Durocs are usually medium-length and have a slight dish of the face. They have large snouts and short, curly tails.

Benefits of Raising Duroc Pigs

1. Great for Outdoor Raising

Raising pigs outdoors, whether on pasture or in a woodland setting, is a great idea for so many reasons. This can really cut down on the amount of barn cleaning that you need to do. It also helps when it comes to improving the health of your animals.

Durocs are perfect for an outdoor environment because they are covered in dense, coarse hair that they shed come summertime. They also have tough, hard skin.

These pigs can tolerate both cold and warm weather with ease.

You don’t have to worry about them becoming sunburned, something that is all too common with other kinds of pigs. The Duroc can, in fact, tolerate most weather conditions without a problem.

As long as you have a muddy area for them to cool off, some rich pastures, and plenty of food and water, your Durocs will have everything they need.

2. Tender, High-Quality Meat

If you ever take a glance at a Duroc pig, your first thought will probably be, “blocky!” The Duroc has a stocky build with plenty of meat in the ham and shoulder area.

We found that the meat ended up being a bit more of a dark red in color, too. This was a testament to their diet as well as the fat distribution and leanness of the meat.

3. Fast Growth Rate

Durocs grow quite quickly, especially when compared to other breeds of pigs. In fact, we conducted a bit of a pseudo-experiment this year. In so doing, we raised both Yorkshire and Duroc piglets for the market.

The results impressed us.

The Yorkshires were slightly older than the Durocs – yet the Durocs reached market weight nearly a month sooner. Anecdotal, but something I saw echoed in many other farmers’ reviews of what it’s like to raise Durocs.

4. Large Litters

Duroc sows are great mothers. They can take care of their young with very few problems.

This is great news considering that the litters can be extremely large. Some say that Durocs can give birth to litters of nearly 2 dozen pigs. This is exceedingly rare, but litters can easily contain around 10-15 piglets if you’re lucky.

Not only that, but Durocs have a long life expectancy – up to 20 years when cared for properly. If you are raising breeding animals, that’s an important factor.

5. Minimal Aggression

Although some people find the Duroc breed to be somewhat aggressive, this isn’t usually the case. There will always be some variation in a breed.

Mostly, though, Durocs raised with other pigs and used to socializing will be quite mild-mannered.

6. Good for Breeding

Because of the reasons listed above, Duroc pigs are some of the best when you are trying to breed certain features into a new line of pigs. In fact, they are often crossed with Tamworths, Yorkshires, and other breeds to create superior pork.

Challenges of Duroc Pigs

1. Extremely Curious and Mischievous

One of the major benefits of raising Durocs is that they are extremely intelligent. In fact, Durocs are so smart that many people wonder whether they can be raised as pets. In short – I don’t recommend it.

Because they are so smart, they are also extremely curious – and extremely mischievous, too. They learn quickly. While they can be trained to be obedient over time, in most cases, if you’re raising market hogs, this isn’t something you’ll have the time to do.

Durocs can be challenging to raise if you don’t have the time or money to invest in some serious infrastructure. By that, I mean these pigs need fences – not just any old fence, but a good fence.

When raising other breeds of pigs, like Tamworths and Yorkshires, we didn’t have to worry about them getting out very often.

A 3-strand electric fence was satisfactory in keeping them contained, even on the occasions when the electricity would be knocked out (they still didn’t test the fence).

Our Durocs, however, seemed to escape regularly. They learned how to lift a gate off its hinges and did this repeatedly. That was along with pushing dirt up and around the electric fence and page wire fence so they could wander wherever they felt obliged to do so.

Duroc pigs are not animals that are well-suited to confinement. Even if your barn is lock-tight, raising these pigs in a sequestered environment is not a good idea. They will not be allowed to root and explore as they please if you do.

2. Skittish Personality

Durocs are known for being extremely independent. Even when raised with other pigs, these smart little buggers aren’t terribly fond of human interaction. They will bolt away at the first touch.

This isn’t necessarily a bad thing when you’re raising pigs for meat. However, keep in mind that it might make them more challenging to handle.

My husband and I have always joked that you can’t force a pig to do something it doesn’t want to. Pigs aren’t like other livestock, such as sheep. These aren’t species that can more or less be manipulated or coerced into doing what you need them to do.

That’s doubly true for Duroc pigs!

However, I have also read that this breed is often used for the show ring. I think that, with a bit of training, you could easily have a Duroc that is friendly and docile enough to be handled. It’s all in how much time you want to commit to it.

3. Must be Raised in a Social Environment

Pigs like to be around other pigs – and that’s true for Durocs. Duroc pigs enjoy other pigs and will get lonely if left to their own devices.

Not only that, but they’ll also get curious! That translates to more pigs trying to escape – not good news for you or your fences.

Therefore, do whatever you can to keep your Duroc pigs entertained with the company of other pigs. Yes, even if they’re pigs of another breed.

How to Raise Duroc Pigs

Duroc pigs should be raised just like any other breed of market pig. Although they can handle most weather conditions, provide them with appropriate shelter like a 3-sided barn. This will help them get out of driving wind and heavy precipitation, along with the burning sun.

A pig will eat an average of 6-8 pounds of feed per day, though this of course varies depending on what you are feeding and what age of pig you are raising.

The average pig will eat up to 900 pounds of food. That is after being weaned from its mother until it is ready for slaughter.

Many farmers use a mixture of corn and soybeans to feed their Durocs. You can also feed any kind of fruit and vegetable, scrap, dairy products, etc.

Don’t forget water as well.

Pigs need a minimum of a gallon of water per day per pig, but potentially more if it’s a larger pig or the weather is warm.

They also need a muddy spot in which to wallow. Be sure to provide this for your pigs when the weather is hot. When it’s cool, a bit of straw bedding will suffice.

Durocs are known for being exceptionally clean animals. They will usually only do “their business” in one corner of the barn, sleeping in the other.

Therefore, the amount of straw you will need is minimal. They have no unique health needs that you would not encounter in other pig breeds, either.

Are Duroc Pigs Right For You?

There are plenty of pig breeds out there for you to choose from, including Yorkshire, Tamworth, Berkshire, Gloucestershire, and more. Why should you choose the Duroc, with all these other options to choose from?

To be fair, the Duroc might not be the perfect breed for everyone.

Take the time to read the information above and to make sure that this is the ideal pig for your small farm or homestead – and if you’re looking for a good meat producer that is smart and stocky, look no further than the Duroc.

To see the Benelli M4 in action, check out the video above. For more gun content, make sure to subscribe to Pew Pew Tactical on YouTube.

Tactical shotguns are favorites among the home-defense crowd, known for their reliable performance and ability to adapt to close quarters environments.

And the Benelli M4 is no exception. This Italian 12-gauge has a reputation for being a solid autoloading shotgun with style, unlike most others.

But what makes this shotgun so good?

Well, we’re going to find out today as we explore the legendary M4. Spoiler alert: it’s a beast.

I’m going to run you through the specs and features; then, we’ll take it to the range here in my home state of Tennessee and at Thunder Ranch in Oregon.

By the end of this article, I might just have you convinced why I think the M4 is one of the best combat shotguns on the market.

So, if you’ve ever caught yourself gazing at the M4 and wondering, “what if,” keep reading…

Let’s get the boring stuff out of the way first.

The M4 is a 12-gauge automatic shotgun with a barrel that sits at 18.5-inches. It eats 2 3/4 or 3-inch shells and comes in a few different models.

Mine happens to be the anodized black version.

It weighs in at a hefty 7.8-pounds with an overall length of 40-inches.

Controls sit where you expect, with the cross-bolt safety located where you need it.

Some say the bolt release is a little small, but I think it’s okay.

The ergonomics are fantastic on this shotgun. That over-molded pistol grip feels big and solid — perfect for handling heavier loads.

(By the way, I think for a combat shotgun, you need to go with a pistol grip.)

On the front, the M4 shipped with a plastic front grip.

It was okay, but I opted for an aftermarket M-LOK handguard so I could add a flashlight down the road.

As far as aesthetics, the M4 looks great.

The Benelli branding is minimal and super clean – though I have no idea why an Italian gun has an American flag on it. Regardless, I like it.

It didn’t come with much, just a box and the gun itself. So, I added one of our own Pew Pew Tactical Flatline rifle straps and a red dot.

ARGO

As I mentioned, this gun is a beast. It runs and runs well, but what makes it all work?

At the heart of the M4 rests the Auto-Regulating Gas-Operated system.

The ARGO system offers a short-stroke, dual-piston design. It was originally created and approved for use by the U.S. Marines in 1998.

And this bad boy thrives on heavier loads. Not to mention, the pistons are self-cleaning.

But if you do need to clean it, it all field strips super easy with no tools. It’s a ridiculously simple design.

Personally, I love that it is self-cleaning, not because I’m afraid to clean a gun. But because it runs clean.

The M4 will run forever in the field, and you won’t have to worry about reliability.

Why So Expensive?

Get the aloe, y’all…this is going to burn.

Depending on the setup, MSRP on the Benelli M4 comes in between $2,000 and $2,300.

Street price is $1,800 to $1,900 unless you want the collapsible stock…which is unobtanium.

And if you do find one, expect to double the price of the gun.

Full disclosure, I paid full pandemic price for mine – buy once, cry like six times.

Why is this gun so darn expensive?

Blame it on the Italians, man. Italian shotguns have long held the reputation for being premium builds with top-of-the-line pricing.

While $2,300 seems steep, compared to other Italian guns (like Beretta’s DT11 topping out at $20,000…no typo there), it’s kind of a steal at $2K.

But really, with the M4, you pay for the reliability.

This shotgun will literally go through the apocalypse with you. You can’t stop it.

And that tends to be well worth the price, especially if you consider it for defensive purposes.

With all that said and done, let’s talk about how it did at the range…

How Does the M4 Shoot?

I took the M4 to Thunder Ranch for a private shotgun class with Clint Smith.

TV Guide version: it feels like a precision machine – smooth and easy.

Back home in Tennessee, I used Kent number 7 alongside some higher brass turkey loads, which I think are Winchester.

One of the things I like about this gun is the trigger. It’s short, light, and crisp. No complaints here.

Combat loading on the M4 feels super clean. You just drop in a shell, hit that release, and you’re ready to rock and roll.

The rubber on the stock and the overall weight eat a lot of the recoil, meaning you can run this all day without needing to see your chiropractor.

Accuracy-wise…it gets the job done. I mean, the Marines use it for a reason. I brought out a bag of Granny Smith apples for my testing because blowing stuff up with shotguns is a good time.

I also used rifled slugs to touch out to 100-yards.

How’d she do? Just fine. Again, smooth is the word of the day, and that’s how she ran.

Even with the stock iron sights, the M4 just works. I eventually added a Sig Sauer Romeo 5 to mine, and that ups the ante.

(If you need some optics suggestions, check out our guide to the Best Red Dots for Shotguns.)

Downsides to the M4

Now, everything has a downside. There’s no such thing as perfect, and the M4 has a flaw – the capacity.

Because of our wonderful government and 922R nonsense, all M4s come as a 5+1. That’s kind of lame.

Also, you may hear guys on the internet say the M4 doesn’t do so well with light loads. In my experience, it eats light loads just as well as it eats the big stuff.

Again, it’s durable and built like a tank, but it’s heavy. Fully loaded, it sits at over 10-pounds, so eat your Wheaties.

Also, once more, there’s the price. This gun ain’t cheap.

And the aftermarket goodies are high too. The entire M4 market is a little out of control. Blame John Wick. And the Italians. And the Marines.

But speaking of the aftermarket…

Benelli M4 Upgrades

One of my favorite things about the Benelli M4 is the upgrades…there’s a lot! From foregrips to magazine tubes to optics and lights, you can customize what you want.

Need some help getting started?

Off the bat, swap out the standard sights for some Meprolight Night Sights.

Then throw on a red dot. I used the Sig Sauer Romeo 5, but the Trijicon RMR works too.

While we’re talking optics if you want to mount the optic low enough to co-witness with irons, grab a Scalarworks Mount.

Remember how I said it has a low capacity? You can work around that with a Mesa Tactical Sureshell Carrier.

Also, grab an M-LOK handguard to throw on some accessories. One of our other writers, Travis, prefers the Strike Industries Hayl Rail.

In fact, Travis has a whole article dedicated to his favorite Benelli M4 upgrades.

By the Numbers

Reliability: 5/5

Some guys on the interweb have complained about trouble with birdshot. For me and multiple thousands of rounds of birdshot, the M4 is perhaps the most reliable gun I’ve ever run.

Ergonomics: 4/5

The big grip is fantastic, and the controls are solid. The foregrip it comes with is so-so but is an easy replacement for something bigger.

Accuracy: 5/5

Rifled slugs at 100-yards? Fuggedaboutit.

Customization: 5/5

The aftermarket for the M4 is robust, albeit overpriced — lots of options for magazine tubs, night sites, rails, handguards, and more. OK, maybe not as many options as we’re used to in the AR world…but for a shotgun, the Benelli is the top of the heap for dialing in your gun.

Value: 4/5

You get a LOT for the price. But boy, that price…

Overall: 4.5/5

This is a little odd because I call the M4 the best combat shotgun on planet Earth…so shouldn’t it be a 5/5? Well, that price is painful, and it’s heavy. And I think most folks will want to swap out a couple of things on their stock Benelli. So yeah, it’s a crazy solid gun…but still sitting at a 4.5.

Conclusion

Benelli’s M4 stands as a shining example of what a good Italian auto shotgun can do.

Far and away, it’s the best combat shotgun on the market. This autoloader looks great, runs smooth, offers up a certain cool factor, and you can trust your life to it.

It earns two huge thumbs up for me. Without hesitation, I recommend you run out and buy an M4.

PPT Writer, Travis Pike, contributed to this review.

Again, to see the Benelli M4 in action, check out the video below.

What do you think of the Benelli M4? Let us know in the comments below. For more combat-style shotguns, make sure to peep our list of the Best Home Defense Tactical Shotguns.

Topo maps have a variety of applications, but when talked about in the hunting community it’s generally related to scouting where folks are using them to identify key terrain features. Whether you’re a new hunter or you have a few seasons under your belt, topo maps can seem a bit more intimidating than satellite imagery. However, if you want to hunt whitetail deer in hill country being able to read topo maps is a necessity. Once the very basics are understood it actually becomes quite easy to pick apart key topo features and really get solid visuals of what the real-life ground actually looks like. Once you can visualize, your digital scouting efforts will become much more cohesive with time spent burning boot leather.

Map basics

One of the very basics to reading any map is orientation. This topic is fairly controversial amongst my peer group and has caused more than it fair share of needless miles. Personally, I like to keep my North orientation on all maps facing up. It’s just the way I was taught as a kid, what I’ve seen most often throughout my career in construction, surveying, and has just been the norm throughout my circle of influence. This “North” orientation concept comes from the invention of the compass and understanding of magnetic north from early Europeans. Keeping a North orientation is probably most common but truth be told, there’s really no wrong or right. Whatever orientation used just needs to be consistent amongst communication.

So what is a topo map? A topographic map or sometimes referred to as an elevation map is simply a detailed two-dimensional representation of the Earth’s surface shown as a series of contour lines with each line having a different elevation. The association of elevation with the contour lines allows the reader to interpret the three-dimensional lay and vertical scale of the land.

Contour lines show elevation change and are used to measure the steepness/grade of terrain. Contour lines also signify key terrain features which will always be represented in a consistent manner. Understanding some steadfast rules of contour lines can help you become very efficient at digital scouting topo maps and provide insightful knowledge on how an animal may traverse the topography.

10 Rules of Contour Lines

• Every specific point on a contour line has the same EXACT elevation.
• Contour lines separate downhill from uphill.
• Contour lines do not touch EXCEPT at a vertical edge or cliff. Because each line carries a different elevation it is impossible to have two lines at one elevation.
• Every 5th line is darker in color and/or thicker. This is known as an INDEX line. Also, INDEX lines will usually carry an elevation number.
• Contour lines get closer together in steep terrain and farther apart on flat terrain. This is specifically important when looking for bench-type features in the hill country.
• Contour lines that close or form circles represent a hilltop or a depression.
• Closed depressions with no outlet have HACHURE marks on the downhill sides of the contour lines.
• Contour lines will make a V shape when crossing a valley or drainage. The V will always point uphill.
• Contour lines will make a V or U shape when coming off a ridge top. The V or U will always point downhill. Often times creating a what people refer to as a point and/or spur.
• Contour lines on the opposite sides of a ridge or valley occur in pairs.

Key Topo Features

You’ll find that the contour line rules above are related to some type of key terrain feature or features. To take those rules a step further lets put some correlation and context around whitetail hunting and show some visuals examples.

Ridge Tops

Tops are fairly easy to identify by either referencing index lines, closed circle, and/or parallel contour lines. Ridge tops are exactly what you’d think….the very top of a ridge. While ridge tops might not offer the most favorable hunting locations, there will typically be a sign there. From my experience, most of that is laid down during night time hours which shifts this feature into a scouting location for both boots on the ground and trail camera sets.

Ridge tops become extremely useful for access routes to and from stand locations. While understanding the big picture of the area (bedding structure, feeding locations, predominant wind directions, travel routes, etc) tops allow you clean access by keeping your scent cone blowing in nondeer areas.

Bottoms

Bottoms or valleys can be identified in the same way ridge tops are but with one addition, traditionally bottoms will have some type of water feature. Bottoms are a great place to look for a sign but again generally speaking most of it will be laid down during night hours. We generally look at these areas for general trail camera locations for the sole purpose of gathering an inventory of the local deer.

Bottoms can be extremely difficult to hunt due to swirling winds and thermal pools however it’s not entirely impossible. Given a zero wind day with high or rising barometric pressure they can be hunted with caution. Bottoms can also offer great access routes because you are able to visually and audibly keep yourself hidden.

Drainages

Drainages are exactly what they sound like….a drainage ditch coming off the hillside and are found in a variety of depths, steepness, and width. Drainages can be spotted on the topo as bends in the majority of the contour lines on the hill said. As the stated rule says above, this will create a V or U shape with the point leading uphill. Wider drainages will look more like a U and narrower drainages will look more like a V. Often times folks may refer to larger drainages as “draws”.

Drainages are one of my favorite features to mark on my map and then go scout. They can provide excellent hunting opportunities pending the sign is there. They not only create a barrier for animals to navigate but double as a pinch point as often you’ll find animals hug the very top of the drainage. They also offer great potential access to stand locations and thermal advantages for evening hunts.

The image above shows 3 different drainages obviously labeled as A,B, and C; each of which have distinct characteristics and advantages. Drainage A is your typical larger drainage that some might refer to as a draw. This might be an area to scout for the potential nighttime sign. Drainage B is smaller in relative profile yet much shorter/steeper than drainage A. This may bode well for access pending there is a sign there to hunt. Drainage C is actually several drainages in close proximity that creates a “bowl” in the hillside. This type of feature is important as the actual drainages and ridgetop reduces potential areas of animal travel creating several pinch points to scout.

Saddles

To whitetail hunters, a saddle is simply a low spot on a ridge top. Generally, it can be identified when contour lines are making a V or U shape off a ridge top that is pointing towards one another from two separate directions. This feature is important because it often provides the path of least resistance for animals to travel and creates a valuable pinch point.

In my opinion, nearly all saddles are at least worth taking a look at. What I’ve found over the last 5 years of hunting public land is that most majorly defined saddles like shown in the photo below will draw human attention, so don’t be afraid to look at saddles that are less subtle.

Points and Spurs

While the verbiage may differ from hunter to hunter, the importance of points/spurs remain the same. Points/Spurs are secondary ridges, usually short in relative length, that stem from the main ridge and are identified by a V or U shape pointing downhill.

For Whitetail hunters points/spurs are key features for a multitude of reasons. The first is that they often provide bedding opportunity for whitetails. These are also great areas to scout for deer trails and rub lines as whitetails will often travel vertical pending the steepness of the point. One advantage to hunting points or spurs is that the wind will generally be consistent once you understand the wind/air currents in the area.

Benches

If you’re unfamiliar with this term, a bench is just a relatively flat spot on a hillside. Benches are the hardest of these key features to identify consistently. The more easily seen benches are really just shown by contour lines spread out further in a specific area or elevations compared to the other contour lines of the hillside. With 20′ contour lines a bench can be less than 20′ wide without varying the distance between lines. These subtle benches can often be dynamite spots as they are typically overlooked but the downside is you will likely have to spend some time walking some of these prospected areas.

Benches allow deer to easily navigate hillsides without having to sidehill and also give whitetails a flat area to scrape on. Both great reasons to scout and run trail cameras on benches.

While this article should provide a plethora of knowledge and insight for folks of every map reading ability, don’t feel intimidated if some of this sounds foreign. Everyone has to have a starting point, but hopefully having resources like this and tools like OnX Hunt moves you along that learning curve a tad bit faster. For more helpful content on trail cameras, and hunting strategies be sure to check out the Exodus YouTube Channel and The Exodus Podcast.

Author: Chad Sylvester, Exodus Outdoor Gear Co-Founder/Owner

If you’re seeking information on top-performing handguns, you’ve come to the right location. The renowned Austrian gun manufacturer, Glock, has achieved record sales for three consecutive years. It is predicted that their revenue will surpass one billion euros soon. Here is a list of the 10 best-selling pistols in the USA for 2022.

1. Glock 43X

The Glock 43X is lightweight, weighing just 650 grams when fully loaded. It is known for its low trigger force of 2.5 kg, making it easy to use. The G43X is part of Glock’s Slimline series, which offers the same level of dependability and performance as traditional Glock models, but with a more streamlined stock and grip for enhanced maneuverability.

The advantages of the Glock 43X include its compact size, ease of use, and exceptional trigger compared to other Glock models. Additionally, it was one of the best-selling handguns in 2021 and 2022. One potential disadvantage of the Glock 43X is that it is not designed to attach optics.

2. Taurus G3C

The Taurus G3C is a new model set to replace the well-liked G2C. If you’re searching for an introductory gun or a modern 9mm handgun with dependable accuracy and ample capacity, the G3C is a noteworthy option.

Benefits of the Taurus G3C include its three safety mechanisms: a loaded barrel indicator, locking firing pin, and trigger safety. Additionally, it has an affordable price point of around 250 Euros, making it great for every day and concealed carry. It also boasts a large capacity for a compact pistol and a light trigger pull of only 600 grams. Some potential drawbacks of the Taurus G3C include its longer trigger distance and less sleek design compared to other handguns on the market.

3. Glock 19 Gen 5

The Glock 19 Gen 5 is optimal for gun enthusiasts who find the Glock 17 too large but do not desire the smaller Glock 43X or Glock 26 (Baby Glock). Some benefits of the Glock 19 Gen 5 include its ample frame capacity, light trigger pull, and ideal sight length for targets up to 50 meters. It is also perfect for concealed carry, with a weight comparable to that of compact Glocks. One potential disadvantage of the Glock 19 Gen 5 is that it is unsuitable for optics attachment.

4. Taurus G2C

Taurus G2C, a mainstay in the top 10 list, is widely popular due to its cost-effectiveness. A brand new Taurus G2C in 9mm caliber can be acquired for around 230 euros. Benefits of the Taurus G2C include its affordability as the most budget-friendly gun on the list, the compact size that makes it suitable for versatile use, ease of use, its ergonomic handle with thumb and palm rests that enable comfortable grip and control, a light trigger pull, and 12+1 rounds, which is ample for its size. A potential drawback of the Taurus G2C is its incredibly long trigger travel.

5. Glock 44

The Glock 44 is an excellent option for those who appreciate the Glock 19 and are searching for a .22 LR pistol. It offers a comfortable and familiar feel similar to the Glock 19 but with reduced recoil. Some benefits of the Glock 44 include its affordability and handling experience that closely mimics the Glock 19. One potential downside of the Glock 44 is that the barrel does not have a thread.

6. Glock 43X MOS

The Glock 43X MOS is similar to the Glock 43X, with the added feature of the Modular Optic System (MOS), which allows for the replacement of the factory sights with aftermarket RDS or tritium night sights.

7. Glock 19X

The Glock 19X is an excellent pistol for those with larger hands and who desire the full-size grip of the Glock 17 but with the thinner and shorter frame of the Glock 19 for concealed carry. Benefits of the Glock 19X include its suitability for shooters with larger hands, its a thinner casing that makes it ideal for law enforcement, its high capacity, ease of use, and smooth trigger pull. One potential downside of the Glock 19X is that it may experience issues with ammunition from certain manufacturers and a collection of debris.

8. Smith and Wesson M&P 45 2.0

The Smith and Wesson M&P45 2.0 is a .45 caliber pistol with an altered grip angle of 18 degrees to bridge the gap between this model and the Glock.

Some advantages of the Smith and Wesson M&P45 2.0 include its tactile and audible trigger reset, very light trigger pull, especially for a .45 ACP weapon, the optimum angle of the handle for a comfortable and natural shooting position, 4 included grip inserts for adaptability to any hand size, aggressive grip for full control during shooting, 380mm groove pitch which is ideal for a .45 ACP barrel, affordability, sleek design, suitable for open carry, and equipped with adjusted optics.

Potential disadvantages of the Smith and Wesson M&P45 2.0 include its limited capacity of 10 rounds, its length of 200mm, which makes it less suitable for concealed carry, its long trigger stroke, standard white dot sights that may be inadequate for a gun in this price range, and the similar price; you may be able to purchase a Glock 19 or Glock 43X.

9. Glock 20

The Glock 20 is an excellent hunting companion due to its ample (15+1) capacity and 10mm caliber, which ensures adequate stopping power, even during an encounter with a bear. Some benefits of the Glock 20 include its large frame capacity, extended line of the 17 cm sight that allows for faster and easier targeting, superior stopping power, comfortable width of 3.4 cm, and ability to handle recoil better than any other 10mm pistol. Some potential drawbacks of the Glock 20 include its inability to be carried concealed, the tendency to collect debris, and the highest trigger pull weight of any Glock.

10. Glock 26 Gen 5 (Baby Glock)

The Glock 26 Gen 5, also known as the “Baby Glock,” is the second most popular subcompact pistol after the Glock 43X. Some advantages of the Glock 26 Gen 5 include its suitability for concealed carry, its impressive frame capacity within its class, its lightweight of 730 grams when loaded, affordability, and the inclusion of the Glock Marksman Barrel, which uses a barrel rifling technique based on polygonal grooves for improved accuracy. One potential downside of the Glock 26 Gen 5 is that it is not equipped for optics attachment and may be too small for individuals with larger hands.

If you ask the average American rifle shooter if the world needs another hot new hunting cartridge, it’d be tough to find many to agree right off the bat. But if you laid these specs in front of that same average shooter, they might change their tune: a long, heavy-for-the-caliber bullet with a high ballistic coefficient that produces less felt recoil than a 7mm Rem Mag that can be run in a light, short-action rifle action. Yeah, that’s definitely attractive — and that’s the new 6.8 Western cartridge.

It was engineered as a collaboration between Browning and Winchester, and released to the public in 2021 with hunters as the target demographic.

“The 6.8 Western is the cartridge we turn to for accuracy testing,” said Browning’s director of marketing and communications, Rafe Nielsen, on the Backcountry Hunting Podcast.

Many shooters may ask why two powerhouse companies would introduce a new cartridge in an already saturated market. Do the engineers at Winchester and Browning know something we don’t?

GOOD GEAR – Survive the Day With BRCC’s Endurance Roast

Going From Good to Great

The cartridge’s designers lowered the shoulder of the .270 WSM, removing roughly 10% of the case’s powder capacity. Lowering the shoulder allowed long, higher ballistic coefficient bullets to seat in the case without encroaching into the powder space.

Fast-twist barrels of 1:7.5” and 1:8” help stabilize the long, heavy .277-caliber projectiles weighing from 162 to 175 grains.

The heaviest bullet you can expect to find in a .270 WSM is 150 grains. With heavier bullets and a higher BC, the 6.8 Western can simply reach out farther with greater accuracy.

READ NEXT – 338 Norma Magnum: Cheat Code for Snipers and Machine Guns

6.8 Western vs. 7mm Rem Mag

According to the BH Podcast, the 6.8 Western, for the most part, nips on the heels of the 7mm Remington Magnum in several categories — again, with a lighter kick.

When both cartridges shoot the same 165-grain bullet weights, the velocity for the 6.8 Western is roughly 2,900 fps, and the 7mm Rem Mag moves at about 3,000 fps. The BC of those bullets is more than 0.600 on the G1 scale, which translates into a projectile that can buck the wind and retain energy at long ranges.

However, the 6.8 Western produces about 15% less felt recoil than a 7mm Remington Magnum. It offers a cartridge capable of taking all of North America’s big-game species — minus the really big bears — in a short-action platform with manageable recoil.

With those features, the 6.8 Western is predictably an excellent deer hunting cartridge that’s capable of making long shots across bean fields on whitetails or steep canyon shots on mountain muleys. It’s especially well-suited for hunting the Great Plains, where shots are routinely at around the 400-yard mark.

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6.8 Western vs. .270 Winchester

The 6.8 Western and a .270 Winchester fire the same-diameter bullet, but their parent cases differ quite a bit. The .270 Winchester was born from necking down the .30-06 Springfield case to hold a .277-inch projectile.

The 6.8 Western was created from the .270 Winchester Short Magnum case by lowering the shoulder and reducing the case’s powder capacity, which allows a longer, heavier, high BC bullet more room to fit into the case.

A 140-grain bullet fired from a .270 produces 1,401 foot pounds of energy at 500 yards, while the 6.8 Western’s 170-grain bullet hits with 1,736 foot pounds The cartridges also have almost identical trajectories, but the 6.8 lands with a larger wallop.

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How It Stacks Up Against the 6.5 PRC

Should you get a 6.8 Western if you have a 6.5 PRC? That largely depends on whether you are a target shooter or a big-game hunter.

The 6.5 PRC allows shooters to hit vital-size targets on large bovines out to 800 yards. However, the 6.5 PRC’s 140- to 153-grain bullets do not carry the same downrange penetration capabilities and energy transfer as the heavy-for-caliber 163-, 165-, 170-, or 175-grain projectiles from the 6.8 Western.

If hitting steel at extended distances or shooting whitetails and pronghorn in open country is what you are asking the 6.5 PRC to do, then sticking with that cartridge is fine. However, if you’re after larger game, like elk, large black bears, or moose, the 6.8 Western will drive heavier bullets at difficult angles deep into the vitals.

Those heavier bullets will retain more energy at longer ranges. Pair that extra power with the larger frontal diameter of the 6.8 PRC, and the cartridge delivers far more thump on target.

Both cartridges also have the charge sitting close to the primer, which allows for efficient ignition within the case, consistent pressures within the chamber, and velocities that stay the same from shot to shot.

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6.8 Western Rifles

There are currently 23 rifle offerings from Winchester chambered for the 6.8 Western. Nine are in the “rifleman’s rifle,” the controlled-feed Model 70. There are also 14 options in Winchester’s budget-friendly XPR line.

Browning’s 6.8 Western lineup includes 18 X-Bolt rifles, including the Western Hunter LR. There are 13 X-Bolt models in 6.8 featuring Browning’s own Hawg Muzzle Brake, advertised to reduce felt recoil by up to 76%, depending on caliber. Not only is this easier on your shoulder, but it also reduces muzzle rise, so a shooter can easily spot hits or get back on target for follow-up shots on game.

For models that don’t wear a brake, recoil sits between the levels of a .270 Winchester and a 7mm Remington Magnum. It is pretty comparable to a .30-06 firing a 180-grain bullet, which comes out to about 20 foot pounds of felt energy in an 8-pound rifle.

Some smaller gun shops, such as the Texas company Hill Country Rifl, have decided not to build guns for the new caliber because some ammunition doesn’t seem to shoot well out of their rifles.

“The Browning ammunition made our accuracy standards of a three-shot half-inch group at 100 yards,” Matt Bettersworth of Hill Country Rifles told Free Range American, “but the Winchester ammunition did not meet our standards. And this was from the same gun.”

Winchester Model 70 Extreme HunterPrice: $1,869.99

Often dubbed “The Rifleman’s Rifle,” Winchester’s Model 70 bolt-action is incredibly accurate for a factory-fresh rifle. This version is built for dead-on accuracy in the roughest hunting environments on Earth.

It features a tough Bell and Carlson synthetic stock that resists moisture like there’s no tomorrow and a free-floating sporter-weight barrel with a tungsten Cerakote finish.

Winchester XPRPrice: $609.99

The Winchester XPR is proof that you don’t have to dump a wad of cash to get a great rifle chambered in 6.8 Western. The company took the proven concepts of the Model 70 and combined them with super-efficient manufacturing processes to come up with a reliable and affordable option for the everyday hunter.

Featuring an advanced polymer stock with a matte black finish, a nickel teflon-coated bolt body, and a rugged Perma-Cote finish on the barrel and receiver, this rifle is made to stand up to harsh conditions and rough environments.

The Future of the 6.8 Western

Predicting the fate of a cartridge is hard. Like the .30-06 Springfield, some survive because of the confidence of troops carrying them in battle and later into the deer woods. Sometimes the cartridge is paired with a rifle platform that flat-out works, such as the 7mm Rem Mag and the Remington Model 700. Some cartridges never make it far beyond the basements they were born in.

If hunters and shooters take notice of the 6.8 Western’s ability to shoot high BC bullets capable of ringing long-range steel or taking game up to the size of a moose, then it should stick around. An inherently accurate cartridge that recoils less than a 7mm Remington Magnum chambered in compact, lightweight, proven rifle platforms should find a place in any rifleman’s arsenal.

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If you’re an avid trout fisherman, you’ve probably wondered if you can eat trout raw. Saltwater fishermen talk all the time about catching Spanish mackerel or tuna and eating right on the boat. But saltwater fish and freshwater fish live in very different environments. So can you eat trout raw?

The quick answer is that yes, you can eat trout raw if you’re desperate – but otherwise, you should not. It’s not recommended and could be bad for your health. Freshwater fish (including trout) have a higher chance of carrying parasites that could harm you.

On the other hand, saltwater fish are less likely to have harmful parasites in them – and are safer to eat raw. But even then you can still get very ill from eating any type of raw fish.

But what are your other options then? What are the best ways to prepare trout if you’re camping and if you do have to eat trout raw (like if you’re trying to survive without a fire), how would you go about doing it as safely possible?

We’ll answer all these questions and more in this article. Let’s get to it!

Why Can’t You Eat Trout Raw?

Before we get into what you should do if you absolutely have to eat trout raw as well as ways to prepare trout you’ve just caught, let’s go into a bit more detail as to why you cannot eat trout raw.

Author Note: With any raw fish, you run the risk of picking up any parasites that might be living in its meat. These parasites could be tapeworms, lung fluke, or other digestive bugs that will cause you serious harm if transferred to your digestive system.

As we mentioned earlier, saltwater fish don’t have nearly as many parasites that survive in human bodies and are there for less risky to ingest raw. That being said, health experts recommend you freeze all raw fish (saltwater included) at -4 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 7 days to kill any parasites that might be living in them.

This is the standard that sushi restaurants live by and applies to all raw fish.

Can Trout Be Eaten as Sashimi?

Sashimi is small pieces of raw fish – so aligning with our previous answer, you should not eat trout as sashimi. It’s still raw and can harm you for all the same reasons you shouldn’t eat trout raw.

Just because it has a fancy name does not make it any different from eating plain raw trout!

What to Do If You Have to Eat Trout Raw

Now that you know you should not be eating trout raw unless you need to to survive, let’s go over the things you try and do before eating it. It’s worth noting that we are NOT medical experts so if you do take our advice we are not liable for your health.

The first thing you should do is make absolutely sure you have no way to start a fire to cook the trout. Can you use friction to start a fire with two sticks?

Do you have a lighter somewhere on you or someone in your party that you may have forgotten about? Be absolutely sure you can not start a fire before proceeding.

After you’ve checked that, you should focus on cleaning the fish properly and quickly. You’ll want to eat the trout as quickly as possible after you catch it to ensure it doesn’t go bad.

The longer you wait after it is dead the more time bacteria have to grow on it and cause you harm.

How to Clean a Trout

Once you’ve caught a trout (maybe with a bobber setup or using a stick to spearfish) that you want to eat, you should immediately cut its gills to let it bleed out.

This will preserve the flavor of the meat and remove some of the stronger flavors in the blood.

Author Note: After cutting the gills you should clean it as soon as possible. Here’s how to clean a trout. The process is similar for all species of trout, whether it’s a rainbow trout, cutthroat trout, or lake trout.

Instructions

1. The first step in cleaning the trout is to make sure you have a sharp knife. Considering you’re in survival mode, even a pocket knife will work fine. If you don’t have a knife. We recommend finding a sharp rock and trying to follow these steps.
2. Begin by cutting down the trout’s belly starting from the anal fins up to the pelvic fins and the beginning of the collar. We like resting the fish on a big rock to get leverage.
3. Next, reach up inside the trout and pull out the innards. You may need to use both hands to pull them loose if they are stuck to the rib cage.
4. Wash away the blood and extra gut from your rock then cut through the collar and remove the head.
5. Next, it’s time to cut out your fillets. Make a cut across the end of the tail on both sides. Then connect the cut your already made on the belly to the end of the tail.
6. Make a cut from the top of the backbone starting at the collar and going all the way down to the tail. Move your blade all the way down the spine while cutting through the skeletal bones.
7. You can then use your knife to cut away the fillet from the collar of the trout.
8. The last step is to remove as many of the pin bones as you can with your fingernails. This step can be time-consuming but will give you bone-free fish.
9. The last step is to inspect the meat for any visible parasites or worms. They should be relatively obvious. If you see something weird, don’t eat that part of the fish or try and catch another one.

How to Cook Trout Properly

Luckily you will find yourself in this situation instead of the above. You’ve caught a trout while camping and you are ready to prepare it over a fire! This is a much safer option than eating trout raw. Let’s go over how to cook trout properly while camping.

Instructions

1. First, you should follow the above steps we laid out for cleaning the trout properly. This will ensure you avoid eating bones (which can be dangerous) and will make the trout taste better. Bleed the fish first then remove the guts. If you brought any seasoning with you (salt, pepper, etc.) this is when you should add it.
2. After cleaning the raw trout, find a long thin stick with a tip you can sharpen with your knife. This is going to be the skewer that you will use to hold the trout fillets over your campfire.
3. Slide each filet onto the stick. If you don’t have enough room on your stick, you should find another stick and sharpen it so you have two skewers. Make sure the skewer holds the filet flat and maximizes its surface area. This will help the fish cook quickly and evenly.
4. Once you build your fire, wait until the big flames have died down. This is the most common mistake when cooking trout while camping – you don’t want to cook it over open flames! You can, but it will impart a bad tasting charcoal flavor from the smoke.
5. Once the big flames have died out, push the logs apart so the coals are exposed. This is where you are going to cook your trout.
6. Hold the trout filets over the coals to cook them. You should start smelling cooked fish. Pay attention to the surface of the meat as well – you don’t want it turning black or burning.
7. The best way to tell if the trout is done is to feel it. If it is firm like the muscle of your thumb and index finger, it’s done.

What Kind of Trout Tastes Best?

Author Note: We also get this question all the time, and the answer is that it depends on your personal preference! Smaller species of trout like rainbow trout and brook trout tend to have firmer meat – like bass or pike. They also tend to taste like perch or other small predatory fish.

Larger species like lake trout tend to be softer and oilier. This is because they don’t have to work as hard to find food and have a higher fat percentage in their meat. If it was up to us, we would eat rainbow trout and steelhead the most.

We think they have the best texter and a mild flavor that tastes great with very little seasoning. Steelhead are a unique type of trout in that they can be caught year-round – even in the winter.

But if you’re in survival mode and purely eating the trout because you need sustenance, you probably won’t care what kind it is or what it tastes like. Hopefully, you don’t find yourself in that situation!

Parting Thoughts

We’ve been camping many times, and inevitably someone asks can you eat trout raw? It might be tempting at first – how much more fresh could the fish get? But as you now know eating trout raw can be dangerous to your health and should be avoided at all costs.

If you do have to eat trout raw, you should make sure to clean it properly first. Hopefully, you’ll have the resources to start a fire and avoid eating it raw.

We hope you found this article useful and informative. If you have additional comments or thoughts about eating trout raw, feel free to shoot us a note in the comments below.

Happy Hunting!