Other than shot placement, movement, and camo the only other thing that can ruin a good hunt is wind. Most big game animals have an amazing ability to smell and that can make getting close enough to them to take a shot very difficult. We thought we’d run through the scent control options that we carry here at Archery Country and how to use them so you have the best chance of going undetected while bowhunting.

Ozone Products

How does it work?

Ozone from an ozone generator can be an extremely effective tool to attack and reduce the viruses, bacteria, odors and other contaminants that build up.

Ozone molecules (O3) are inherently volatile and look for every opportunity to return to the natural state of oxygen (O2). When an OZ generator emits a powerful stream of ozone molecules into an environment they seek out and destroy odors, bacteria, viruses, mold, mildew, and more. Ozone is drawn to these odor compounds and micro-organisms and destroys them through the oxidation process (O3 loses one oxygen molecule and reverts back into O2).

After Ozone oxidizes, the odor compound that was once a nuisance is now broken apart – resulting in a clean and refreshed environment! The oxygen molecules can then be used over and over again in this cycle. This means no refillable cartridges, additional filters, or any other repeat-purchase accessories. Just turn on and refresh time and time again! ScentLok offers a great variety of ozone products for protection during your next hunt.

Our favorite ScentLok Ozone products:

These products are intended to be used prior to hunting.

ScentLok OZ 8K Ozone Rolling Bag & Radial IQ Combo

Storing your hunting clothing in an ozone storage container is a vital step for success in the field. Our products are constantly adsorbing odors and contaminants in the air that surrounds them. Keeping your gear in the OZ 8K Ozone Rolling Bag + Radial IQ Combo allows the new Radial IQ ozone generator to destroy lingering odors and keep them from contaminating your gear.

ScentLok OZ NFuse Ozone Sprayer

The OZ NFuse Ozone Sprayer transforms tap water into a powerful, effective and highly economical means of destroying odor-causing bacteria – deodorizing virtually any surface or area and reducing odor-causing bacteria by up to 99% in minutes!

ScentLok OZ Radial EZ

The OZ Radial EZ is ideal for your odor control needs, a perfect fit for camping, closets, medium-sized rooms, cabins, and more. This portable ozone generator was specifically designed to quietly seek out and destroy odors and bacteria in its path.

Odor Eliminating Enzyme Products

What are enzymes and how do they work?

Enzymes are active proteins found in all living matter, people, animals and plants. They are not living organisms themselves. The only things that are alive are the cells that create or produce the enzymes. Enzymes are crucial to basic life processes. If you could look into a cell, you would find a multitude of enzymes directing traffic or processes to keep that cell alive. Enzymes are nature’s way of processing, kick starting or breaking things down. Dead Down Wind offers several options for odor eliminating enzyme products.

Our favorite odor eliminating enzyme products:

These products are intended to be used before or right before hunting.

Dead Down Wind Laundry Bombs

Laundry Bombs are new easy-to-use, water soluble multi-chamber packs that consist of Dead Down Wind’s proven enzyme-based detergent, now with 50% more enzymes. Place a Dead Down Wind Laundry Bomb into the washing machine drum before adding hunting garments to remove stains, odors and even increase the longevity of your gear.

Dead Down Wind Dryer Sheets

Dead Down Wind’s Dryer Sheets deliver odor elimination coupled with anti-static performance – that’s why they are wet coming out of the package. If you are using a regular dry sheet, then it probably isn’t doing anything for odor elimination. DDW’s Dryer Sheets are the only biodegradable dryer sheet on the market.

Dead Down Wind Antiperspirant

The second phase to the complete scent prevention system is hygiene. This is a crucial step that allows you to stop odor right at the source. The Dead Down Wind™ Antiperspirant focuses on eliminating odor right at the source so you can stay field-ready when it matters most.

In The Field Products

These products are intended for wild game to smell so that their olfactory systems are manipulated. We offer two different kinds of products that do this.

Nose Jammer

Nose Jammer contains Vanillin and other natural aromatic compounds that have the ability to effectively jam an animal’s sense of smell. The compounds used in Nose Jammer are not alarming to game animals because they are found in lignin, a major support structure for all trees, grasses, and shrubs. The key is taking these prolific compounds game animals are conditioned to and delivering them at concentrated levels to overload the olfactory gland found in an animal’s nose.

Our favorite Nose Jammer Products:

Nose Jammer Gear-N-Rear Wipes

Nose Jammer Gear-N-Rear Wipes make cleaning up in the field easy. Our wipes are made with the same secret formula found in all Nose Jammer products. They are formulated to be used on your body as well as your hunting gear. Each package contains 20 – 7″ x 6″ wipes.

Nose Jammer Aerosol Field Spray

Nose Jammer creates a cloud around you which jams big game’s ability to detect and track human odor. Nose Jammer should be sprayed on clothes, boots, tree stands, blinds and brush. When the wind swirls, critters olfactory gets jammed and they stay unalarmed. Works on all critters with a nose!

Scent Thief

Scent Thief is a formula that relaxes the olfactory epithelium of animals and shuts down their ability to smell. The evaporation of Scent Thief into the air is how the formula enters the animals nose. We interviewed Russell Epperson, the inventor of Scent Thief of our podcast and he suggested applying it liberally throughout your hunt for the best results.

Our favorite Scent Thief Products:

Scent Thief Field Spray 24oz

Scent Thief’s revolutionary formula is the first and only hunting scent blocker product to completely eliminate an animal’s sense of threatening odors. Our patented No Smell Technologyrelaxes the olfactory epithelium, temporarily shutting down an animal’s sense of smell. When an animal gets Scent Thief Field Spray in their nose, they won’t be able to smell anything else. Guaranteed. The wind can now act in your favor. All natural, all organic ingredients are safe for skin, clothing and the environment.

Scent Thief Wafer

The Scent Thief Wafer is the next evolution in No Smell Technology™. Use the Wafer in the field by hanging it in a tree, up-wind of where your treestand is located. The wind will help carry the Wafer scent and create a “No Smell Area” around you. Use alongside the other hunting scent blocker products to eliminate an animals ability to smell you.

No matter which scent control options you choose, being prepared for a shift in wind while hunting is always a good idea. Shop all of our scent control products here.

Public land whitetail hunting is nothing new. However, in recent years, it has exploded in popularity. But why? There are a few major reasons, but there’s one big solution that is allowing hunters to be more nimble and get to where they need to be to take down deer on public dirt: hunting saddles.

Knock-on-door permission is difficult to obtain these days, and most blue-collar whitetail goers can’t afford a pricey lease. Also, many whitetail hunters are over the constant grooming of private land to create a whitetail haven. Food plots can work, but they also take a hell of a lot of work, time, and often money.

Plus, hunting public land is easier and better than ever before. As more whitetail hunters look to get in the field, state game and fish agencies have done an excellent job of creating more public access nationwide.

And some bowhunters want the added challenge of chasing big bucks on public dirt.

There are entire YouTube channels like The Hunting Public and outdoor television shows dedicated to public-land deer pursuits. In today’s whitetail world, it’s cooler to be a run-and-gun public-land warrior than it is to have hundreds of acres of private, manicured whitetail dirt.

Of course, public-land hunting ushers in a litany of challenges. One of those challenges is treestand hunting. Leaving a hang-on stand with climbing sticks in a tree overnight is illegal in many states. In other states, you can leave a stand-and-stick combo in a tree for a week, but not for a month.

And, of course, aluminum hang-on stands and sticks are a chore to tote around the woods, and for many public land whitetail hunters, especially those who find regular success wandering off the beaten path, weight and space in a backpack is an issue if they’re hauling a stand and their climbing gear.

Plus, since not everyone has things like ethics and scruples, there’s also no guarantee all the parts of your stand will still be there when you walk in pre-dawn to your public land spot.

RELATED – Tactical Flashlight: What to Look For Before You Drop the Cash

The Tree Saddle

Enter the tree saddle into the deer hunting gear arsenal.

A tree saddle is a significant win for those who prefer hunting North America’s favorite big-game animals from 20 feet up. Also called hunting saddles or treestand saddles, they are specialized equipment used by hunters to provide a secure and comfortable way to hunt from a tree without using a large metal platform.

A tree saddle consists of a harness-like system that goes around the waist. It typically includes a waist belt, leg loops, and adjustable straps. The harness distributes your weight evenly and provides stability while you’re standing in the tree.

A small platform is used for foot placement, but the harness system brings a new name to hang-and-hunt. A hunter hangs in the air, with their feet on the miniature platform. A rope from the waist belt will run to a line with a carabiner, which wraps around the entirety of the tree’s trunk.

A saddle is drastically lighter than any kind of climbing tree stand, and you can hunt with one from even the most gnarled and crooked trees in the woods. Plus, your mobility is greatly maximized once you’re in the tree.

How to Use a Tree Saddle

To use a tree saddle, select a suitable tree and attach the climbing system. Many saddle hunters use lightweight aluminum climbing sticks to help them get up the tree safely and quickly.

Once you reach the height you want, secure the saddle to the tree by wrapping a rope or webbing around the trunk and connecting it to the saddle. This creates a secure attachment point.

Next, you can sit or stand in the saddle, supported by the harness. The saddle design allows for flexibility and maneuverability, enabling you to shift positions or rotate around the tree trunk to get the best angle for a shot. Some tree saddles also have additional accessories, such as platforms or pouches for gear storage.

Tree saddles are popular among hunters who value mobility, versatility, and stealth. They offer a lightweight and portable alternative to traditional treestands that allows hunters to set up quickly in various locations and adapt to changing hunting conditions. Additionally, tree saddles provide a more intimate connection to the tree, enhancing the feeling of being one with your surroundings.

RELATED – Rifle Backpack Guide: Buy One That Doesn’t Suck

The Big Benefit

With a saddle, platform, and sticks, you can hop from tree to tree quickly and quietly to take advantage of right-now deer movement.

From the early season to the rut to the late season, you can quickly move around the woods to put yourself in the best position to take advantage of what’s putting a big buck where he wants to be: food, girls, and cover.

And hunters who border-hop and hunt whitetails on public ground in multiple states don’t need to have a pickup bed full of treestands and sticks if they switch to a saddle. A single platform, a set of climbing sticks, and a saddle is all you need.

The Best Hunting Saddles, Platforms, and Sticks

It’s hard to beat the Venatic Saddle from TrophyLine, a top-of-the-line saddle manufacturer. Weighing only 20 ounces without the bridge and 30 ounces with the bridge and carabiner, this ultralight saddle provides comfort, durability, and ease of use.

The fabric is ultralight ripstop nylon, and a rigid rubber MOLLE band runs the entire length of the saddle for adding pouches and accessories. The rubberized waistband boosts comfort and grip.

The straps have been cut in half to increase comfort but without sacrificing strength. I also love the durable Foldback Lineman Loops. The foldback design prevents snags on brush when hiking in.

Pair the Venatic with TrophyLine’s Onyx Platform and Double Step Mini Climbing Sticks. The Angled Perimeter of the Onyx means angles on each side of the platform, with built-in non-slip ridges for more secure foot placement, plus the single-cast post is a breeze to set.

The 17-inch Double Step sticks come in a four-pack, and, as the name suggests, they feature fixed double steps for increased comfort and safety, and the pivoting V-bracket on each stick means you can get a stick to fit any trunk.

RELATED – Vortex Razor HD 4000 GB: High-Tech, Tough, and Precise

The Phantom Starter Saddle Kit from Tethrd is a great piece of gear and a favorite among bowhunters. The kit comes with everything you need to get up a tree and get to hunting for just over $400.

The kit comes with the Phantom Saddle, a Lineman Belt, a tether, and an optional platform. With this kit, you’ll have everything you need to wander public and private tracts looking for that perfect 18-feet-up ambush point. Once you find it, this system will have you safely and comfortably up the tree in no time. The saddle fits waist sizes ranging from 28 to 40 inches.

It’s important to note that hunting laws and regulations vary by jurisdiction, so you must familiarize yourself with local regulations and obtain any required licenses or permits before engaging in hunting activities.

Additionally, any hunting equipment, including tree saddles, should always be used with proper safety precautions and after training to minimize the risk of accidents or injuries.

Final Thoughts

Killing a whitetail with any weapon is a difficult task. However, when a buck exposes his weakness, whether it be a late- or early-season food source or his need to chase girls, being able to be where he wants to be will stack the odds of success in your favor.

Few tools allow you to capitalize on deer movement quickly and quietly the way a lightweight, comfortable tree saddle can.

READ NEXT – Mess Kit History: Feeding Backcountry Adventures for Generations

By reader request, we’re putting two short-action gems up against one another, with a time-proven veteran with 70-plus years of hunting, military and target experience, and a relative newcomer that is quickly gaining favor in the hunting fields and target range. And despite the differences in bore diameter, many hunters are flocking to the smaller bullet diameter; the question is whether or not that change is warranted. Let’s compare the differences between Hornady’s 6.5 PRC and the classic .308 Winchester.

As the younger of the pair—having been released at the 2018 SHOT Show—the 6.5 PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge) is often referred to as the big brother of the 6.5 Creedmoor. Based on the .375 Ruger, shortened to fit in a short-action magazine, the 6.5 PRC is a rimless cartridge, using its 30-degree shoulder for excellent headspacing and chamber concentricity. The case features the .532-inch-diameter case head common to the Holland & Holland family of cartridges, and measures 2.030 inches in length, with a cartridge maximum length of 2.955 inches. This leaves ample room outside the case mouth for those bullets which possess the high Ballistic Coefficient values, and make the best choices for shooting in high winds or at long distances. Like the Creedmoor, the vast majority of projectiles will top out at somewhere between 140 and 147 grains, with few exceptions.

The 6.5 PRC does offer a respectable velocity advantage over the Creedmoor—about 250-260 fps, putting it on par with the 6.5 Weatherby RPM, and ahead of factory ammo for the 6.5-284 Norma. Though it is short and squat—and visually reminiscent of the Winchester Short Magnum cartridges—I’ve found the 6.5 PRC feeds very well in any rifle with a decently designed feed ramp. At 2960 fps with a 143-grain Hornady ELD-X, the 6.5 PRC will throw those bullets in a very similar manner to the .300 Winchester Magnum with a good 180-grain bullet; when zeroed at 200 yards, it’ll print 6.4 inches low at 300 yards, 18.2 inches low at 400 yards, and 36.2 inches low at 500 yards (where it still retains over 1,600 ft.-lbs. of energy). In the recoil department, the 6.5 PRC does have a higher recoil level than does the 6.5 Creedmoor, but I’ve found it to be completely manageable.

The .308 Winchester came to light in the sporting world before it got its marching orders in the U.S. Army, being released in 1952. It is the result of the 1940s effort to reduce the size and weight of the cartridge, in order to maximize the soldier’s potential. Starting with the .300 Savage cartridge, the end result was what the military designated the T-65. Sharing the same case head dimension as the .30-06 Springfield (derived from the Mauser cartridges), the .308 Winchester effectively reproduced the Springfield’s performance – at least from a military perspective. The sporting world would cock an eyebrow, however, and that debate between the .308 and .30-06 rages on 70 years later. Like its forefathers, the 308 Winchester is rimless, with a .473”-diameter case head, and a 20-degree shoulder for headspacing. The case length is 2.015 inches, with a cartridge overall length of 2.810 inches; the resultant cartridge is one of the first to earn the moniker of “inherently accurate.”

With the 1:12-inch twist rate of the early sporting rifles, the .308 Winchester was limited to 200-grain bullets, though many were eventually offered with the faster 1:10-inch twist. As bullet technology improved, the need for 220-grain round nose definitely faded, but the argument is still raised that the Springfield handles heavy bullets better than does the .308 Winchester. I personally feel that bullets weighing between 150 and 180 grains make the best choice for big-game hunting, as with modern designs they are rugged enough to reach the vitals on game as large as moose and elk, yet don’t take up that precious real estate in the case. Many hunters feel the 165-grain bullets are the optimum balance of bullet weight and velocity in the .308 Winchester, and there is merit to that theory. Traveling at 2700 fps, the trajectory of the .308 Winchester isn’t as flat as the .300 Magnums, nor even the 6.5 PRC, but still makes a good choice for an all-around hunting rifle. With a common softpoint bullet, and a 200-yard zero, the 308 will print 8½ inches low at 300 yards, 25 inches low at 400 yards and 50 inches low at 500 yards, retaining over 1,100 ft.-lbs. of energy at the latter distance. And while these numbers may seem anemic when compared to some of the modern cartridge designs, remember that the .308 Winchester was once the undisputed darling of the long-range target crowd.

Grab a box of premium 180-grain ammunition for the .308 Winchester and you’ve got moose and elk medicine, as well as making a great choice for black bear anywhere. If you like to use your big-game rifle for the occasional coyote, the 125-grain bullets can be very effective, if a bit rough on the pelts.

With all this is mind, which makes the better choice for the hunter? A couple of factors should help dictate your choice of purchase: first, the choice of species to be pursued, and second, the ranges at which you hunt and your style of hunting. With the flexibility of bullet weight that .30-caliber has to offer, the .308 Winchester is, was, and always shall be a very versatile cartridge. At the most common hunting ranges, its trajectory and energy levels don’t pose an issue, and I feel that for the larger species the .308 Winchester offers an obvious advantage over and of the 6.5mms. Should you want your hunting cartridge to pull double duty as a competition target cartridge, especially at long ranges, the 6.5 PRC is a fine choice. Many feel that the 140- to 147-grain bullets are plenty of bullet weight for bears, elk and moose, though the author feels that a larger bore diameter and additional bullet weight will be greatly appreciated for those species. As a deer/sheep/antelope cartridge, the 6.5 PRC is a wonderful choice, and it is in that species range where I feel the cartridge absolutely shines.

Factory ammunition for the .308 Winchester is wonderfully plentiful, with all major manufacturers offering good choices. The 6.5 PRC has assuredly caught on, with at least one load offered by Winchester, Browning, Federal, Nosler, Norma and Barnes, as well as the Hornady offerings. To pick one over the other, I’m going to fall back on my inherent desire for flexibility, and that means I’ll have to choose the .308 Winchester for the wider variety of bullet weight, even if I’m giving up the hunting performance outside of 500 yards. There is a reason that the .30-caliber cartridges remain such popular choices in the hunting arena, and while the 6.5mms are certainly impressive far downrange, the majority of hunting certainly occurs inside of 400 yards.

Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.

The American pump shotgun market is ruled by two guns, the Mossberg 500 and Remington 870.

These guns have been subject to at least as much debate as to the 9mm vs. 45 ACP or the Glock vs. 1911.

While they are very similar, they are also very different. Just saying Mossberg 500 or Remington 870 is a bit misleading. Both guns have dozens of variants.

These guns are not just a single line but a series of shotguns.

With Mossberg, we have the 500, the 535, the 590, the 590A1, the Shockwave, and so on.

With Remington, we have the Express, Wingmaster, Tactical, the TAC 14, the DM models, and more.

We are keeping this generalized to the specifics of these family of shotguns. When necessary I’ll mention exceptions within these families if rules are broken.

I want this to be a look at both the inside and outside of the guns and what’s important to shooters.

Both guns are similar, and they come in 12 gauge, 20 gauge, and 410. Both are pump-action shotguns, both are American made, and both can be used for home defense, hunting, and police and military use.

There are quite a few differences, though. That’s what we are going to explore today, the differences between these two guns.

The Controls

The most significant difference any shooter can easily pick up on is the difference between the safety locations on a Remington 870 and a Mossberg 500.

The Remington 870 uses a traditional push-button safety located on the trigger guard. Mossberg uses sliding safety located on the tang of the receiver.

The Remington 870’s safety is positioned behind the trigger and easy to reach.

It can be used with any stock system with ease. It is much more friendly with right-handers, but that being said, a left-handed friend of mine uses an 870 and destroys us at shooting clays.

The Mossberg 500 safety is completely ambidextrous but challenging to use on shotguns with pistol grips. This includes practical pistol grips that utilize stocks as well.

It takes a mighty reach upwards on Mossbergs with pistol grips

While the safeties are the easiest difference to spot, the other difference is the slide release. Both the Mossberg and Remington position the slide release on the left side of the trigger unit.

Remington places there forward of the trigger, and Mossberg positions theirs behind the trigger.

The Remington 870 suffers from the fact that you have to break your firing grip to reach forward and release the slide. The Mossberg 500 series can be activated without breaking the firing grip.

The Difference in Actions

One difference you can’t see, but you can feel is each gun’s actions. Both use twin steel action bars for increased durability.

You notice how handy those twin action bars are when you handle something like an old 1897 and feel how fragile a single action bar is.

The Remington 870 uses a robust, one-piece design that combines the action bars and pump. The Mossberg 500 series uses two pinned action bars that are anchored to a separate slide assembly.

The end result is the Mossberg pumps tend to feel sloppy, and they move around quite a bit. You can feel the slop in your hands as you pump the weapon.

The Remington 870 tends to be tighter and smoother. It gives an overall higher quality experience. If you want to tune a gun up, get a Remington, and you’ll be shocked at how smooth a competent smith can get a Remy action.

The 500 series does make it easier to replace and repair the action. Should a bar get bent, it’s easy to unpin the bar and remove and replace it. If a Remington 870 bar gets bent, it can be challenging to pull out the entire system and replace it.

Material Differences

One of the most significant differences you can’t see is what material makes up your shotgun’s receiver.

Don’t feel bad.

Most people can’t look at a metal and tell you what it is.

This material difference is one of the biggest differences you’ll likely never notice.

The Remington 870s use good ole ‘fashion American steel. Well, I don’t know if it’s American, but it is steel. This gives the 870s a more substantial receiver overall.

The Mossberg 500 series uses aluminum receivers. While steel is stronger, there is likely never going to be a time you can break a Mossberg 500’s aluminum receiver. While the difference exists between the materials, there is no practical advantage to using steel over aluminum.

AR-15s are made from aluminum, and we trust it’ll work.

The most significant practical difference is the weight of the guns. Remingtons, on average, tend to be heavier guns by anywhere from a pound to half a pound when like vs. like is compared.

More weight isn’t exactly a good or bad thing, it’s just different. Stalking deer? Lightweight is nicer. Skeet shooting? Heavier makes for a smoother swing.

Magazine Tubes

Another somewhat hidden, but often desirable feature for shotguns is extending the magazine capacity. Shotguns are typically restricted to a relatively low ammunition capacity. The ability to add a few extra shots can be highly desirable.

With the Mossberg 500, it’s complicated. Adding more capacity is difficult because of the magazine and barrel design. To do so, you need a new barrel and matching tube to do so.

You can’t just screw on an extension and go for it. The barrel attaches directly to the magazine tube and not around it. The Mossberg 590 series corrects this and allows you to connect a magazine extension directly to the tube.

The Remington 870 is traditionally a simpler weapon to utilize when it comes to adding an extension. Remove the magazine cap and then screw on the extension.

Well, that was the old days. Now on a lot of models, they are dimpling the magazine tube.

This makes it impossible for the spring and for rounds to travel into an extension. It’s likely the tactical models don’t have this dimpled magazine tube, but a lot of the non-tactical models will.

The only solution is too remove the dimples yourself via power tools or pay a gunsmith to do it.

You can’t swap the magazine tube for another without a dimple because Remington solders the magazine tubes in place.

These soldered tubes can be a major hassle if you damage the tube and need to replace it.

With Mossberg designs, you simply have to heat up the Loctite and unscrew the magazine tube.

Extractors / Ejector

Improper extraction and ejection are likely the most common cause of firearm’s malfunction outside of ammo related issues. Needless to say, it’s an important function. Shotguns deal with an odd round when you think about it.

It’s a bulky hybrid of plastic and brass that’s often cumbersome, comes in various lengths, and can be all sorts of different weight and projectile types. Being able to extract and eject any and all shells are essential.

Remington uses a single extractor that grips the rim of the shells and rips them outwards.

Mossberg uses two extractors to help guarantee reliability. The dual extractors are great because if one breaks, the other will still work, and you can run the gun until you can repair it.

I’ve fired a lot of rounds from shotguns, especially 870s and 500s, and I’ve never had a single extractor break, but redundancy is often an effective safety measure.

The good news is both can be replaced at home with both guns.

Each gun’s ejector is a different story. Mossberg continues its tradition of being user accessible with an ejector that screws in. Remington continues to be the iPhone of shotguns with a riveted ejector making it challenging to replace.

I stripped a Mossberg 590 receiver for a friend, and it took a little heat gun action and a flat head screwdriver to remove the ejector. I wouldn’t know where to start with an 870.

The Shell Lifters

The shell lifters aren’t exactly something you think about when you first handle a shotgun.

Once you start loading and shooting a lot, and primarily when you shoot Mossberg 500s and 870s a lot, you notice that the Mossberg is more comfortable to load.

The Mossberg uses a patented shell lifter that is both skeletonized and in the always up position.

The Remington uses a standard shell lifter that stays down and acts as a gate to the gun. It’s a solid slab of metal that sits below the bolt and action. To load a shell, you press the shell lifter up and slide it into the tube.

The shell lifter can slow you down, and when you are going fast, it likes to pinch you.

The Mossberg skeletonized and always up shell lifter is out of the way, and you can smoothly load one or two shells with little effort.

The skeletonized lifter also allows you to fix malfunctions easier. You can reach through the bottom of the gun, and this can help you free a stuck shell.

The Small Things

Here are a few small things you may want to consider when purchasing either gun. These didn’t fit into any other category and are not significant enough to warrant their own category. So let’s not forget about the small things.

Adding an Optic

The Mossberg 500 series are all tapped and ready to add a scope rail and an optic. The Remington 870 is not universally tapped, which means a trip to the gun smith, or a Burris Speedbead system needs to be installed.

Check out more in our Best Shotgun Sights article.

Mini Shells

Mini shells are tons of fun! They are low recoil, easy to shoot, and decently affordable.

Both guns can fire them, but the Mossberg 500 series can be fitted with an adapter from Opsol.

This mini clip allows the mini shells to feed 100% of the time. The 870 cannot be fitted with this adapter.

Barrel Thickness

The Remington 870 has a thicker barrel than a standard 500. It’s equivalent to a Mossberg 590. You can buy the upgraded Mossberg to get the thicker, stronger barrel.

Price

The Mossberg 500 tends to be cheaper, but the Remington 870 is only a hair more expensive. It’s also fitted with a steel receiver and a thicker barrel. The 590 series are more expensive than the 870 Express models, as well.

A US Army Testing Procedure

The US Army has a testing procedure called the MIL-SPEC 3443 test, which is a brutal 3K round test that pushes shotguns to the edge.

The Mossberg series has been the only shotgun to pass this rigorous test.

Here’s us with our 590A1 and some Winchester 00 buckshot…

The requirement calls for a metal trigger group, so only the 590A1 and 500 MILS qualify to fit the criteria.

Customizability

If you want to customize your gun, you can go with either model and be quite successful with that goal. There are crazy amounts of parts out there for both weapons.

You can do almost anything.

You can swap stocks, pumps, add sights, side saddles, and more to each gun. You can do a ton with either, and it’s hard to say which is better overall.

Both guns are straightforward to customize, and you have plenty of options to do so.

Of course, we have articles to help you with both!

• Best Remington 870 Upgrades
• Best Mossberg 500 & 590 Upgrades

Which One is For You?

That’s a good question.

My chosen home defense shotgun is the Mossberg 590, but my favorite shotgun ever is my antique Ohio National Guard Remington 870.

Both guns have their favorites, and I will say Remington guns have been rough since 2007.

Once Freedom Group took over, quality went downhill noticeably.

However, they seem to have turned that around!

A lot of their new guns are looking, feeling, and shooting much better these days.

If you are having trouble deciding, let’s examine a few considerations.

• If you want a gun, you can service and fix yourself, choose the Mossberg 500 series.

• If you want a gun that uses a pistol grip with stock, then choose the Remington 870.

• If you want a gun that you can abuse and not spend a ton of money on buy a basic Mossberg 500.
• If you want a gun, you can beat up and likely pass on down to your kids, buy an OLDER Remington 870.
• If you’re left-handed, go with a Mossberg.
• If you want a gun that’s tight, smooth, and feels ultra-lux, go with the Remington 870 Wingmaster.

• If you want what the military uses, go with the Mossberg 590A1.

And if you want even more options, we also have a video on the Best Pump Action Shotguns for Beginners.

Conclusion

Both the Remington & Mossberg are super popular and reliable pump action shotguns. Mossberg has the ambidextrous safety, double-extractor, nicer shell lifter, tons of upgrades, and is used by the military. While Remington has the smoother action, steel receiver, and better pistol grip setup.

The right one for you is a personal choice, but now you have the tools to make that choice.

My big question to you is, which one is for you, and why? Let us know in the comments! Don’t forget to get some feed for your new shotty, take a look at The Best Shotgun Ammo: Home Defense & Target Shooting! Or if you want to upgrade it…Best Home Defense Shotgun Upgrades.

Breaking News Bucks

Records in the whitetail world are not easy to topple. Each year there are a few contenders, but for one reason or another they commonly fall short. A broken tine, mass that tapers off or mismatched sides have all dashed some hunters’ hopes over the years. Such is the trophy hunting game. Truthfully, while many of us yearn to take the biggest of the big, it is not easy.

There are few true giants to begin with, and whitetails reaching that status rarely walk out and surrender! You might hunt your whole life and never get an opportunity to take one. But we can dream, right? A million to one is still a chance!

So, what is the probability that two Alabama hunters would set new state records in the same season using primitive weapons? Maybe the answer lies in knowing how they did it.

Michael Perry’s Non-Typical

Let’s start with Michael Perry’s story. Michael hunts public land almost exclusively. He knows a lot about Black Warrior WMA because he’s hunted there for years and walks miles into the 90,000 acres seeking good deer. That extra effort pays off.

In 2019, he spotted signs of a good buck using an area with a heavy thicket near a creek. It was far enough off the road that he figured other hunters wouldn’t find it, so he hung a camera and moved on.

There is the first clue: Get far away from the pressure.

Hunting other areas kept Michael busy that season, and he never got back to check that camera. When he checked the camera the following spring, there was a good buck in there; and one daylight picture from the previous November. Again he left the camera, and in 2020 there were more pictures.

The deer was now a solid 160- class buck, and Michael set out to get him. He hunted the area a few times without success before leaving for greener pastures. The next time he checked the camera, he realized that he had missed seeing the deer by one day.

Clue two: Timing is everything.

When 2021 rolled around, Michael had a new plan. He bought a crossbow intending to hunt the buck as much as possible. But his busy schedule always seemed to get in the way, and the early archery season passed without an opportunity to hunt.

His wife, Kathy, had given him a muzzleloader the previous Christmas. Michael had already taken bucks worthy of the Alabama State Records program with rifle and bow, so he decided that he would use the new gun to try for the big deer. There was a five-day muzzleloader season in the first week of November, but work got in the way again, and he missed the first four days. With only one day left to hunt, it was then or never.

Another clue: Hunt whenever you can make the time.

That morning Michael dropped Kathy off in a good area, then he walked in for another hour. The weather was crisp from a light frost, and there was a steady breeze. He hung his stand off to the side of a trail and waited.

The action was slow until 9:30 a.m., when a familiar 3 1/2-year-old buck came by at 20 yards. He was close, but the buck didn’t have a very nice rack. Michael had seen him in trail camera pictures, and usually the bigger buck was right there with him. He let the younger buck pass.

Clue four: Let younger bucks walk.

A few minutes later, the non-typical appeared about 40 yards further out. He was much larger than the year before, and there would be no passing this one.

Michael picked up the muzzleloader and made the historic shot. The buck lurched forward, ran a few yards, and it was over. The new state-record non-typical muzzleloader buck was down!

The 6 1/2-year-old deer has a huge, dark rack with heavy beams, split points, stickers and beading that extends from the bases up onto the brow tines. It scores 196 3/8 inches, besting the previous record holder by more than six inches.

Shane Bailey’s Typical

A self-described turkey hunter who also hunts deer, Shane took the Alabama muzzleloader state-record typical in December of 2021. Shane cut his teeth in Bankhead National Forest, chasing the big birds as a teenager. Deer numbers were low back then, but that time in the woods taught him skills he uses to this day. And he learned a lot about whitetail behavior along the way. He also likes the challenge of hunting with a muzzleloader. Shane has taken many good bucks since those early days, including a 150-class deer in 2019 on Black Warrior WMA. He first encountered that one during the special muzzleloader season and missed it. A week later, he was back for a rifle hunt, killing it in the same area.

Clue five: When you find one, stay after him.

Around that same time, he and his friend, Jay Hardin, began getting pictures of another good deer on a very small tract of private land (only 15 acres). That deer was not living on the property, but his frequent passes through gained their attention. Trail cameras were providing great intel, pinpointing where he traveled and when he was there. But most of the pictures were taken at night. Then just as quickly as he had shown up, the buck was gone.

The sudden disappearance was attributed to a large influx of wild hogs. It got so bad that Jay was shooting them in his yard, and that disturbance probably made the big deer avoid the area. So, back to square one. In all of 2020, the buck was a ghost.

Clue six: It takes time for a plan to come together.

During the summer of 2021, the buck showed up again. He put on a lot more antler, but like most older deer he was mainly nocturnal. There was only one daylight picture of him. That would likely change during the rut, so Shane and Jay started planning for later in the year.

He was moving through very thick cover, but he moved in the same general area every time. This meant dialing in tight because it was hard to see very far. It also required a careful approach to avoid spooking the deer again. They decided to set up on each end of the travel corridor in hopes that one of them would get a shot.

[Shane in crocs with deer –

Clue seven: Plan meticulously and use caution.

On Dec. 23, Shane was at his tree stand an hour before daylight. It was a cool 22 degrees, with a light northeast wind, exactly the conditions he needed. He poured a whole bottle of Tinks 69 scent out just below his stand and headed up the tree.

Clue eight: Go big!

Just after 7:00 a.m. Shane rattled a long sequence, mimicking an all-out battle between two mature bucks. He wanted the big buck to hear it if he was anywhere in the area. That sequence went on and on until his arms hurt. Then, he waited.

Hint nine: No pain, no gain.

After another 45 minutes passed, he rattled again. Since the action had been slow, he began texting Jay. In the middle of a text, he caught a glimpse of a buck running off, followed by a loud snort wheeze close by. Worried he had blown his chance, Shane grabbed his call and answered with a snort wheeze. Then he grunted twice.

Within a few seconds, there was more movement behind him: It was his target buck closing in cautiously! The giant buck stopped behind some pines, then stepped forward enough for Shane to take the shot. Smoke obscured Shane’s view, but after the slow start his hunt was over very quickly. The buck only went a few yards and expired.

Final clue: Be ready for anything!

The buck was big enough to topple the muzzleloader state record set just a year earlier by a slim margin, scoring 170 1/8 gross. The 6×6 rack has great mass and a 19-inch spread. The buck is estimated to be over 6 years old.

In Conclusion

Both hunters beat long odds, taking magnificent mature bucks. Some might say they were lucky, but they also have plenty of other big deer on their walls at home: the rewards for plenty of hard work and a large investment of time.

How long will the new records stand? I guess we will have to wait to see. Last season sure produced more than a few giant whitetails. Maybe another one is out there waiting for you in 2022!

I love hunting with and shooting muzzleloaders. There is virtue to be found in the slower pace, the process of load development, and the added skills required to place a bullet on target. But I, along with most muzzleloader fans, HATE cleaning them. This is especially true of old-school percussion cap and flintlock models. That is not to imply that modern in-lines are fun and enjoyable to clean. Both platforms demand their own considerations when it comes to muzzleloader maintenance.

In this article, we want to shine the light on what it takes to deep-clean both in-line and closed-breech muzzleloaders.

We’ll begin with contemporary muzzleloaders because they are the easiest to clean and to maintain. Nearly all incorporate a removeable breech plug that simply screws into the back of the barrel. The Traditions NitroFire we’re using here does not have a breech plug due to its use of the Federal Premium FireStick technology, but the cleaning process is like that of standard in-line muzzleloaders.

The thing to keep in mind regarding in-line muzzleloaders is that nearly all are used with copper-jacketed bullets and plastic sabots. This is a big difference compared to traditional muzzleloaders that propel lead balls or slugs, because you’re not so much dealing with lead and powder fouling in the bore, but copper and plastic. Both materials cling to rifling and any surface imperfections along the barrel’s lands and grooves. This means that your average muzzleloader bore solvent and cotton patches are not going to do a great job of eliminating this fouling.

In-Line Muzzleloader Cleaning

Proper barrel cleaning of centerfire rifles and handguns demands a quality solvent and liberal application of a bore brush to remove built-up fouling that can be detrimental to barrel life and accuracy. It is no different with muzzleloaders that shoot copper-clad sabot bullets. In the minds of many shooters who may come from a traditional muzzleloader background, the idea of cleaning a barrel with a bore lubricant and a patch still lingers. Just because the in-line is a “muzzleloader” does not mean it holds to the same cleaning processes as closed-breech sidelock or flintlock muzzleloaders.

Treat your in-line muzzleloader as you would any conventional firearm. After removing the breech plug, run a patch saturated with a good solvent, such as Hoppe’s #9, down the bore to remove the gross fouling. Next, saturate a caliber-specific bore brush with the solvent and make around 10 passes back and forth in the barrel. Allow the solvent to do its work for 10-15 minutes.

Sidelock Muzzleloader Cleaning — the Deep Dive

If I were to venture a guess, I’d reckon that relatively few commercially manufactured sidelock muzzleloaders owned by the occasional muzzleloader shooter or hunter ever receive a thorough cleaning. For many, the sidelock rifle is unfamiliar and uncomfortable territory. Most only receive the cursory cleaning by running a bore lubricant down the barrel a few times before calling it “done.” Fewer still, ever attempt to remove the sidelock to lubricate the mechanism and remove built-up fouling and debris.

Well, the good news is that deep cleaning a sidelock muzzleloader is a simple task. It’s not fun and it is messy, but it is not difficult.

We’re going to show you how to disassemble a sidelock for cleaning. This is a Kentucky-style rifle made from a Traditions DIY kit six or seven years ago and it has never been taken apart since it was built. High time it was, and since most percussion cap and flintlock muzzleloaders are similarly built, it is a good representation of what you’ll find in most sidelock rifles.

Everyone seems to have their own preference when it comes to cleaning a closed-breech rifle barrel. Some feel a cotton patch and bore lubricant is sufficient (it’s not). Others favor solvent and a nylon brush followed by a patch and bore lube. [NOTE: Never use a copper brush in a closed-breech muzzleloader barrel because it will get STUCK!]

My preferred method is the one used by experienced blackpowder shooters — hot, soapy water. After removing the gross fouling with a couple patches and lube, followed by a patch or two saturated with solvent, my barrel gets a bath. Near-boiling water is funneled into the barrel and allowed to drain into a bucket. The breech end of the barrel is then placed in a bucket with hot, soapy water (dish liquid works well). There needs to be enough water to cover the bolster. Next, I screw a mop onto the end of the ramrod and go to town. Raising the wet mop up and down will hydraulically lift the water up the bore. I will scrub up and down like this for several minutes, change the dirty soapy water with fresh, and repeat until the water is clear.

We mentioned earlier that it’s best not to remove the barrel from rifles that use small tenon pins. We only did this here to show you how it is done. Normally, you would keep the barrel on the rifle assembly when cleaning long rifles, such as the Kentucky- or Pennsylvania-style muzzleloaders. You can still use the hot water method, but instead of removing and placing the end of the barrel in hot water, a tube is secured over a special O-ring nipple and the opposite end placed in hot, soapy water. The tube allows the water to be sucked up into the barrel by the mop to effectively clean the barrel without having to remove it from the stock.

If you’re looking to master the art of cutting a tomahawk steak, you’ve come to the right place. With its impressive bone-in presentation and succulent marbling, the tomahawk steak is a true showstopper on any grill or plate.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the step-by-step process of properly cutting a tomahawk steak, ensuring that you achieve perfect slices that do justice to this flavorful cut of beef.

First, make sure you have a sharp knife that can easily glide through the meat. Begin by identifying the bone that extends from the center of the steak’s thickness, resembling a tomahawk axe handle.

This bone adds flavor and moisture to the meat during the cooking process, making it essential for the overall taste.

Next, position the tomahawk steak on a cutting board with the bone facing upwards. Start by slicing horizontally through the outer fat, creating a clean incision that exposes the meat underneath. Use gentle, controlled motions to avoid cutting into the bone.

Once you’ve created this initial incision, it’s time to reveal the beautifully cooked meat. Hold the bone firmly and carefully make vertical cuts, perpendicular to the bone, to create individual slices of your desired thickness. Take your time and adjust the pressure as needed to ensure clean cuts and presentable portions.

Remember, presentation is key when serving a tomahawk steak. Arrange the sliced portions

Choosing the Perfect Tomahawk Steak

When it comes to indulging in a delicious and mouthwatering steak, the tomahawk steak is hard to beat. This impressive cut of beef is known for its large size, frenched bone, and exceptional marbling, making it a show-stopping centerpiece for any special occasion or backyard barbecue.

However, with so many options available, choosing the perfect tomahawk steak can be a daunting task. In this section, we will guide you through the factors to consider to ensure that you select the best tomahawk steak for an unforgettable dining experience.

1. Quality and Grade

The first and most important factor to consider when choosing a tomahawk steak is its quality and grade. The quality of the steak is determined by the amount and distribution of marbling throughout the meat.

Marbling refers to the white streaks of fat that are dispersed within the muscle, enhancing the tenderness, juiciness, and flavor of the steak.

When it comes to grades, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) assigns three main categories: Select, Choice, and Prime. Select is the lowest grade, with minimal marbling, while Choice has a moderate amount of marbling, and Prime is the highest grade, with abundant marbling.

For a truly exceptional tomahawk steak, opt for Prime grade if available. However, Choice grade can also provide a delicious and flavorful steak.

2. Size and Thickness

Another crucial factor to consider when choosing a tomahawk steak is its size and thickness. The tomahawk steak is renowned for its impressive size, often weighing around 2 to 3 pounds. However, you can also find smaller tomahawk steaks that are perfect for individual servings.

The thickness of the steak is equally important, as it affects the cooking time and doneness.

A thicker tomahawk steak will take longer to cook and may result in a more medium-rare or medium doneness, while a thinner steak will cook faster and may lean towards a medium or medium-well doneness. Choose the size and thickness that best suits your preferences and cooking method.

3. Source and Origin

Knowing the source and origin of your tomahawk steak is essential for several reasons. Firstly, it ensures that you are purchasing a steak from a reputable and trusted supplier.

Secondly, it allows you to support local farmers and businesses. Finally, it provides insight into the rearing and feeding practices of the cattle, which can impact the flavor and quality of the meat.

Look for tomahawk steaks that are sourced from sustainable and ethical farms, known for their commitment to animal welfare and environmentally friendly practices.

Additionally, consider opting for locally sourced tomahawk steaks to support your local community and reduce the carbon footprint associated with long-distance transportation.

4. Price and Budget

While tomahawk steaks are undoubtedly a luxurious and decadent choice, they can also come with a hefty price tag. Consider your budget and the occasion when choosing a tomahawk steak.

If you’re looking to impress guests or celebrate a special occasion, investing in a high-quality tomahawk steak may be worth it. However, if you’re on a tighter budget or planning a more casual gathering, there are still delicious options available at a more affordable price point.

Remember that the price of the tomahawk steak will vary depending on factors such as the quality, grade, size, and source. Take these into account when selecting a steak that aligns with your budget.

5. Personal Preferences

Ultimately, your personal preferences should play a significant role in choosing the perfect tomahawk steak. Consider how you like your steak cooked, whether you prefer a leaner or well-marbled cut, and any specific dietary restrictions or preferences.

If you enjoy a tender and melt-in-your-mouth steak, opt for a tomahawk steak with ample marbling. On the other hand, if you prefer a leaner cut with a bolder beef flavor, consider choosing a tomahawk steak with less marbling.

Additionally, take into account any special dietary requirements, such as grass-fed or organic options. Many suppliers offer a variety of tomahawk steaks to cater to different preferences and dietary needs.

Preparing the Tomahawk Steak for Cutting

Once you have obtained a high-quality Tomahawk steak, it is important to prepare it properly before cutting into it. This will ensure that you maximize the flavor and tenderness of the meat. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Remove the steak from the refrigerator: Take the Tomahawk steak out of the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature. This will help the meat cook more evenly.
2. Season the steak: Generously season the steak with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper on all sides. You can also add any additional spices or herbs of your choice to enhance the flavor.
3. Let it rest: After seasoning, let the steak rest for about 30 minutes. This allows the seasonings to penetrate the meat and enhances the overall flavor.
4. Preheat the grill: While the steak is resting, preheat your grill to high heat. Tomahawk steaks are best cooked over direct heat.
5. Oil the grates: To prevent the steak from sticking to the grill, lightly oil the grates. Use tongs and a folded paper towel dipped in oil to rub the grates.
6. Sear the steak: Place the seasoned Tomahawk steak directly on the hot grill grates. Sear it for about 2-3 minutes per side to create a flavorful crust.
7. Move to indirect heat: Once the steak is seared, move it to a cooler part of the grill or reduce the heat to medium. This will allow the steak to cook more gently and evenly.
8. Use a meat thermometer: To ensure that your Tomahawk steak is cooked to your desired level of doneness, use a meat thermometer. The internal temperature should reach 130°F (medium-rare), 140°F (medium), or 150°F (medium-well).
9. Rest the steak: Once the steak reaches the desired temperature, remove it from the grill and let it rest for at least 10 minutes. This allows the juices to redistribute and ensures a more tender and flavorful steak.

By following these steps, you will be able to prepare your Tomahawk steak for cutting and enjoy a delicious and perfectly cooked piece of meat.

Remember, cooking times may vary depending on the thickness of the steak and the heat of your grill, so it’s important to use a meat thermometer for accurate results. Enjoy your meal!

Essential Tools for Cutting a Tomahawk Steak

When it comes to cutting a tomahawk steak, having the right tools can make all the difference. This thick, bone-in ribeye steak requires some specialized equipment to ensure that you can slice through it effortlessly and present a perfectly cooked piece of meat. Here are the essential tools you’ll need:

1. Tomahawk Steak

Before you even think about cutting a tomahawk steak, you’ll need to have one on hand. This beautifully marbled, bone-in ribeye is known for its unique Frenched bone that resembles a tomahawk axe handle, hence its name.

Make sure you source a high-quality tomahawk steak from a trusted butcher or specialty meat shop.

2. Cutting Board

A sturdy and spacious cutting board is a must-have for cutting a tomahawk steak. Look for a board that is large enough to accommodate the size of your steak and has enough space for you to maneuver your knife comfortably.

A cutting board made of wood or plastic is recommended to prevent bacterial contamination and ensure easy cleanup.

3. Boning Knife

A boning knife is an essential tool for cutting a tomahawk steak, especially when it comes to removing the meat from the bone. Look for a sharp, narrow-bladed boning knife that allows for precise and controlled cuts.

The flexibility of the blade will help you navigate around the bone and separate the meat easily.

4. Carving Knife

Once you have separated the meat from the bone, a carving knife will come in handy for slicing the tomahawk steak into individual portions. A long, thin-bladed carving knife with a sharp edge will ensure clean cuts and help you achieve the desired thickness for each slice.

5. Meat Thermometer

When cooking a tomahawk steak, it’s crucial to monitor the internal temperature to achieve the desired level of doneness. A reliable meat thermometer will help you determine when the steak is cooked to perfection.

Insert the thermometer into the thickest part of the meat, away from the bone, and refer to a temperature guide for your preferred level of doneness.

6. Tongs

Tongs are essential for handling the tomahawk steak while it’s on the grill or in the oven. Opt for long, sturdy tongs that provide a good grip and allow you to flip the steak with ease. Avoid using a fork, as it can pierce the meat and cause the juices to escape, resulting in a drier steak.

7. Grill or Oven

Depending on your preference, you can cook a tomahawk steak on a grill or in the oven. A grill will give you those beautiful grill marks and a smoky flavor, while the oven will provide more controlled heat. Whichever method you choose, make sure it is properly preheated to the recommended temperature.

8. Resting Rack

After you have cooked the tomahawk steak, it’s crucial to let it rest for a few minutes before slicing. A resting rack allows the juices to redistribute within the meat, resulting in a more flavorful and tender steak. Place the steak on the rack and cover it loosely with foil to retain heat.

With these essential tools at your disposal, you’ll be well-equipped to tackle the task of cutting a tomahawk steak. Remember to handle the steak with care and always prioritize safety when using sharp knives. Enjoy the process and savor the delicious results!

Step-by-Step Guide to Cutting a Tomahawk Steak

Are you a steak lover looking to impress your guests with a perfectly cooked and beautifully presented tomahawk steak? Look no further! In this step-by-step guide, we will walk you through the process of cutting a tomahawk steak from a prime rib roast.

With a few simple techniques and the right tools, you’ll be able to create a restaurant-worthy tomahawk steak in the comfort of your own kitchen.

Step 1: Choose the Right Cut

The first step in cutting a tomahawk steak is selecting the right cut of meat. Look for a well-marbled prime rib roast that has been dry-aged for at least 21 days. Dry-aged beef develops a more concentrated and intense flavor, making it ideal for a tomahawk steak.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools

Before you begin the cutting process, make sure you have the necessary tools on hand. You will need a sharp boning knife, a sturdy cutting board, and a pair of kitchen shears. It’s important to have sharp tools to ensure clean and precise cuts.

Step 3: Locate the Bone

Place the prime rib roast on your cutting board with the bones facing upwards. Locate the bone that runs along the edge of the roast. This bone will serve as the handle of your tomahawk steak, giving it its distinctive appearance.

Step 4: Remove the Rib Cap

Using your boning knife, carefully separate the rib cap from the meat. The rib cap is a layer of fat and connective tissue that sits on top of the meat.

Start at one end of the roast and slowly work your way along the bone, gently separating the rib cap from the meat. Set the rib cap aside for later use, as it can be cooked separately for additional flavor.

Step 5: French the Bone

Next, you’ll want to “French” the bone to enhance the presentation of your tomahawk steak. Using your kitchen shears, remove the excess meat and fat from the bone, exposing it for a clean and elegant look. This process will give your tomahawk steak that iconic “handle” appearance.

Step 6: Trim the Meat

After removing the rib cap and Frenching the bone, it’s time to trim any excess fat or connective tissue from the meat. This will help ensure even cooking and a more tender steak. Use your boning knife to carefully trim away any unwanted parts, leaving behind a well-marbled piece of meat.

Step 7: Cut Individual Steaks

Finally, it’s time to cut individual tomahawk steaks from the prime rib roast. Start by cutting perpendicular to the bone, creating thick, bone-in steaks.

Aim for a steak thickness of around 2 inches for that perfect balance of tenderness and juiciness. Once you have cut the steaks, you can season them with your favorite spices and herbs before cooking.

Step 8: Cook and Serve

Now that you have successfully cut your tomahawk steaks, it’s time to cook them to perfection. Whether you prefer grilling, pan-searing, or using a sous vide method, make sure to cook the steaks to your desired level of doneness.

Let the steaks rest for a few minutes before serving to allow the juices to redistribute. Serve your tomahawk steaks with a side of roasted vegetables or a loaded baked potato for a complete and satisfying meal.

5. Tips and Tricks for a Perfectly Cut Tomahawk Steak

If you’re a meat lover, then you’ve probably heard of the mighty Tomahawk steak. Known for its impressive presentation and succulent flavor, this cut of meat is a true showstopper.

However, cooking and cutting a Tomahawk steak can be a bit intimidating if you’re not familiar with the process. Fear not, as we’ve compiled some useful tips and tricks to help you master the art of preparing a perfectly cut Tomahawk steak.

1. Choosing the Right Tomahawk Steak

The first step to achieving a fantastic Tomahawk steak is choosing the right cut of meat. Look for a steak with a thick bone and well-marbled meat.

The bone not only adds an impressive visual appeal but also helps in maintaining the steak’s tenderness and juiciness. Additionally, the marbling is crucial for flavor and ensures the steak remains moist and flavorful during cooking.

2. Preparing the Steak

Before you start cooking your Tomahawk steak, it’s essential to let it come to room temperature. Allowing the steak to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes helps ensure even cooking throughout the meat. Season the steak generously with salt and pepper, or your favorite steak seasoning, for a burst of flavor.

3. Cooking Techniques

There are several cooking techniques you can use to cook the perfect Tomahawk steak. Here are a couple of popular options:

1. Reverse Sear: This method involves slow cooking the steak at a low temperature before searing it on high heat to achieve a beautifully charred exterior. Start by placing the steak in a preheated oven at around 275°F (135°C) until it reaches your desired internal temperature. Finish by searing the steak on a hot grill or cast-iron skillet for a few minutes on each side.
2. Grilling: Grilling a Tomahawk steak is a classic and straightforward method. Preheat your grill to high heat and place the steak over direct heat. Sear for a few minutes on each side to achieve the desired doneness. For added flavor, you can also use wood chips or chunks to create a smoky aroma.

4. Resting and Carving

Once your Tomahawk steak is cooked to perfection, it’s crucial to let it rest before slicing. Resting allows the juices to redistribute throughout the meat, resulting in a juicier and more tender steak. Wrap the steak loosely in aluminum foil and let it rest for about 10 minutes.

When it comes to carving a Tomahawk steak, you’ll want to make thick, impressive slices. Start by removing the bone, which can be easily done by cutting along the bone and using a gentle sawing motion.

Once the bone is removed, slice the steak against the grain into thick pieces, around 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Serve the slices on a platter and enjoy!

5. Serving Suggestions

A perfectly cut Tomahawk steak deserves the perfect accompaniments. Here are a few serving suggestions to elevate your dining experience:

• Classic sides: Pair your steak with classic sides like mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables, or a fresh green salad.
• Sauces: Consider serving the steak with flavorful sauces such as peppercorn sauce, chimichurri, or a rich mushroom sauce.
• Wine pairing: Enhance the flavors of your Tomahawk steak with a bold red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Malbec.

Now that you’re armed with these tips and tricks, you’re ready to tackle a perfectly cut Tomahawk steak.

Whether you’re grilling for a special occasion or simply indulging in a delicious meal, mastering the art of preparing this impressive cut of meat will surely impress your guests or satisfy your own meat cravings. Enjoy!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. How to cut a tomahawk steak?

To cut a tomahawk steak, start by placing the steak with the bone-side down on a cutting board. Use a sharp knife to make a horizontal cut along the bone, separating the meat from the bone. Then, make vertical cuts to portion the steak into individual servings. Serve and enjoy!

2. How long should I cook a tomahawk steak?

The cooking time for a tomahawk steak will vary depending on the thickness of the steak and the desired level of doneness.

As a general guide, grill the steak for 4-5 minutes per side for medium-rare, or adjust the cooking time according to personal preference. Use a meat thermometer to ensure the steak reaches the desired internal temperature.

3. How should I season a tomahawk steak?

For a delicious tomahawk steak, season it generously with salt and pepper on all sides. You can also add additional spices or a dry rub for extra flavor. Allow the seasoning to penetrate the steak by letting it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes before cooking. This will enhance the taste and tenderness of the steak.

Conclusion

In conclusion, learning how to cut a tomahawk steak is a valuable skill for any home cook or aspiring chef. By following the proper technique, you can ensure beautiful, evenly cooked steaks that are sure to impress your guests. Remember to start with a high-quality tomahawk steak and use a sharp knife to create clean cuts.

Take your time and follow the bone’s natural curve to achieve those iconic long, exposed bones. Whether you’re grilling, broiling, or pan-searing, the tomahawk steak is guaranteed to provide a flavorful and visually stunning dining experience.

Cutting a tomahawk steak is not only about technique but also about appreciating the art of cooking. The bone-in presentation adds elegance to the dish, making it a standout choice for special occasions or celebrations.

From its marbling to its tenderness, the tomahawk steak is a prime cut that commands attention. With practice and patience, you can master the art of cutting and enjoy this indulgent and satisfying piece of meat.

Learning how to skin a raccoon is not a difficult task.

With a few simple tools and a little patience anyone can learn how to skin, flesh, stretch and dry a raccoon pelt.

One of the biggest mistakes made during the fur harvesting process occurs during the skinning or fleshing of the furbearer.

Why is this stage so important?

Improperly skinning the animal can decrease its value or even worse, make it worth nothing at all.

Proper fur handling is an important step that everyone should understand.

Not only will you feel a sense of pride or satisfaction from a job well done, you’ll also get a better price from the fur buyer for all your hard work.

There are two basic ways to skin a furbearer……open and cased.

“Open” describes a method used to skin beaver or badger where a cut is made down the belly and the pelt is tacked out flat.

“Cased” is the most common method of skinning a furbearer.

Muskrats, mink, coyotes, fox, raccoons and many other animals are skinned this way.

Cased furs are processed by cutting a slit in the animals hide from one hind foot pad to the other.

A small slit is made in the tail and the tailbone is removed leaving the tail fur attached to the pelt.

Then, the pelt is removed from the animal in a process that’s similar to taking off your shirt or socks.

Once the hide is removed it’s then fleshed, stretched and allowed to dry.

How To Skin A Raccoon

Although it’s pretty easy to remove the skin from a raccoon, they contain a lot of fat which sometimes makes the fleshing process a little time consuming and messy.

Before you begin, I recommend wearing a pair of latex surgical gloves during the entire process.

The rubber or latex gloves not only keep your hands clean, but they also protect you from various diseases that raccoons have been known to carry.

I’ve also found using a thin bladed skinning knife or pocket knife, like a Buck or Old Timer knife, with a sharp blade works the best.

How To Skin A Raccoon Step-By-Step Process

To begin cut around the front and rear ankles where the fur meets the top of the foot.

Next, starting at the hind foot pad, on the inside of the foot just above the heal, cut straight across the body just above the vent or anus.

Cut all the way across in a straight line to the opposite foot pad.

In a “V” shape cut around the vent on both sides and then cut about a 3-4 inch slit along the underside of the tail.

Using your knife and hand pressure, remove the skin from around the legs far enough so you can attach a skinning gambrel or other similar device around its rear legs so the raccoon can be hung upside down.

Using your knife to remove any connective tissue, work the hide off the legs, around the cuts near the vent and around the cut on the tailbone.

Expose a couple inches of the tailbone and remove the tailbone using a tail stripper.

For best results use a push/pull motion with your hands and the tail stripper.

At this point you can pretty much grab the hide and pull it down like a sock, using your knife to cut away any connective tissue that gets in the way.

When you reach the front arms, work the hide around the elbow and stick your fingers between elbow/armpit area until you can pull the hide down off the front wrists.

Do this on both front legs.

While pulling down on the fur, remove the fur from around the head until you reach the ears.

Cut off the ears leaving them attached to your “cased” skin.

Using the ear holes for leverage, continue to pull the pelt down and cut around the eyes, lips and finally cut the pelt off at the nose.

That’s it!

The skinning process is now done and you’re ready to flesh.

How To Skin A Raccoon – Flesh Removal

Place the cased raccoon skin over your fleshing beam, flesh side out.

Using a small clamp to clamp the nose area will keep the pelt from slipping over the end of the fleshing beam.

Position the pelt evenly on the beam and begin to slowly remove the flesh and fat with the sharp part of your fleshing knife.

Start at the base of the ears and slowly work your way down the pelt using a slight slicing motion with your knife.

Necker Fleshing Knife

Once the fat starts coming off you can turn your knife over to the dull edge and push away from your body, removing the fat from the hide.

Flesh about half way down the pelt and then rotate the pelt on the fleshing beam.

Continue fleshing the pelt until all flesh and muscle has been removed.

Once the hide has been fleshed the final step is to stretch and dry the fur over either a board or wire stretcher.

Overall – How To Skin A Raccoon

Learning how to skin a raccoon the proper way will ensure the you get the maximum amount of money when you take your furs to a buyer.

Take your time, do a good clean job, and your hard work will be rewarded.

When it comes to hunting big game, it’s hard to ignore the 270 Winchester and 30-06 Springfield. Both cartridges see extensive use during rifle hunting season and are the bane of North American whitetail, mule deer, feral hogs, antelope, and elk.

There’s no denying that the 270 Win and the 30-06 are great cartridges that offer a wide range of bullet weights, allowing shooters to tailor their hunting rifle to take on varmints up to black bears.

And although each cartridge has its own merits, hunting forums across the Internet are ablaze with heated debate over which one is the best choice for their next bolt-action rifle.

First Shots: 270 Win vs 30-06 Springfield

Which is going to work better for You? Do you need the knockdown power of heavier bullets fired from the 30-06? Or does a flatter shooting 270 Win fit your hunting cartridge needs?

In this article, we will objectively compare the 270 Win and the 30-06 Springfield to give you all the data you’ll need to make the best choice on your next bolt action hunting rifle.

Cartridge Specs

When you begin comparing two cartridges, it is good practice to start by examining the case itself.

Looking at the 270 Win vs 30-06 cases, we notice that both cartridges descended from the .30-03 rifle round, which we will learn about later in the history sections below. This means that both hunting cartridges will be very similar.

There are only three major differences between the .270 Win and the 30-06, the bullet diameter each cartridge fires, their neck diameter, and the SAMMI max pressure rating.

The 270 Winchester fires a .277” diameter bullet while its larger brother fires a .308” diameter bullet. Simply put, the 270 Winchester is a necked-down version of the .30-03.

As the case capacity between the two is virtually identical, it makes sense that the 270 Win would have a higher maximum pressure as we are shooting smaller projectiles with the same powder charge. This will naturally lead to higher pressures.

Recoil

Recoil impulse is always something to consider when selecting which caliber you want for your new hunting rifle.

As the case capacity for both the 270 Win and the 30-06 is nearly identical, felt recoil energy is going to be dependent on two factors: rifle weight and bullet weight.

A heavier rifle will typically impart less recoil onto your shoulder, the same can be said for lighter-weight bullets.

Internet forums will often state that recoil is not a huge consideration for big game hunting as the shooter will typically only fire one shot. Generally, I’d agree. However, there is the occasion where a follow-up shot is needed. In that case, I’d want a cartridge with less recoil to help me get back on target quicker.

When it comes to 30-06 and 270 Winchester, the 30-06 is going to have higher recoil. How much you ask? The difference is not as great as you would think.

On average, the 30-06 will generate 25 ft-lbs of recoil energy while the 270 Winchester will slap your shoulder with 20 ft-lbs force. Although the 270 Win does have less recoil, it’s nothing like a 223 Rem!

Shooters will often report that the recoil impulse is different between the two cartridges. Hunters will often describe the 270 as having a sharper more defined recoil and the 30-06 having a rolling recoil impulse throughout the firing process.

Although this is not exactly quantifiable, it is a trend you will discover if you like reading shooting forums or talking about rifle cartridges around the fire at deer camp.

Regardless, the 270 Winchester has less recoil energy and will be a better choice for an inexperienced shooter or one with a smaller frame.

Trajectory

Trajectory is how we quantify a bullet’s flight path to its target measured in inches of bullet drop. As a bullet travels downrange, it is constantly being pulled back towards the earth due to gravity. And in terms of long-range shooting, a flatter trajectory is preferred.

Lighter-weight bullets traveling at higher velocity (FPS) will be affected by gravity less as they will reach the target faster than heavier bullets traveling slower.

Therefore, the extremely popular 130 grain bullet offerings for 270 Winchester, like the Hornady 30-06 Ammo SST Superformance or Nosler AccuBond, offer exceptional bullet drop values well past 500 yards. On average, a 130 grain bullet fired from a 270 Win will have dropped about -38” at 500 yards, which is better than the 6.5 Creedmoor and on par with the 300 Win Mag at that distance.

Although the 30-06 fires a heavier bullet, its trajectory numbers are still very reasonable for the power that it brings to the field. Take for example your typical 150 grain Nosler Partition having a bullet drop of -42” at 500 yards, that’s still very respectable.

The simple truth is that the trajectories of both hunting cartridges are extremely similar. However, the 270 Winchester will be slightly better as it generally fires lighter bullets at a higher FPS.

Accuracy

Accuracy is an extremely difficult metric to quantify as it is primarily dependent on the rifle used and the ability of the shooter.

There’s no denying that some handloads will be more accurate than others, however, accuracy is most often a measure of a shooter’s skill as opposed to the cartridge itself. Both the 270 Win and 30-06 are capable of sub-MOA groups with proper handloads or match-grade factory loads.

Some shooters will report having better accuracy with a 270 Win, most likely due to less felt recoil energy and favorable trajectory.

However, with all things being equal, there should be no difference in accuracy between these two cartridges.

To learn more, check out our recommendations for the best 30-06 ammo for accuracy.

Ballistic Coefficient

Ballistic Coefficient (BC) is a numerical representation of how well a bullet resists wind and air resistance. It’s a measure of how aerodynamic a bullet is, a high BC is preferred and means the bullet will buck the wind easier.

The way a BC is calculated is rather complicated and irrelevant for this article, however, heavier bullets will typically have a higher ballistic coefficient.

Overall, both the 270 Win and 30-06 have high BC’s and resist wind drift extremely well. Both cartridges have long, slender bullets which help cut down on wind drag.

Furthermore, the added weight from 180 grain bullets available in 30-06 makes it more difficult for the wind to force the bullet off target.

There is not an appreciable difference in BC between these two cartridges. On average, the 30-06 will have slightly higher BCs than the 270 Win, but we are really splitting hairs in this instance.

It’s unlikely most shooters will be able to ascertain the difference in ballistic coefficient between 30-06 and 270 Win, therefore we are going to call this one a tie.

Sectional Density

Sectional Density (SD) is the measure of how well a bullet penetrates a target. This is extremely important when hunting big game, as you need a bullet that can punch through thick hide, bone, and sinew.

Sectional density is calculated by comparing the bullet weight and the bullet diameter, the higher the number the more effective it will be at penetrating a target. The higher the SD the deeper the bullet will penetrate the target.

Just like for ballistic coefficient, there is not much difference between the 30-06 and the 270 Win.

The reason for this is the difference in bullet design and velocity between the two. Although the 270 Win is firing a smaller bullet, the bullet’s energy is localized into a smaller area increasing penetration. In contrast, the heavier 30-06 uses brute force to penetrate deep into the target.

In the end, you’ll get similar penetration for both the 270 Win and the 30-06, to the point that I doubt any hunter will be able to tell the difference between the two.

Hunting

Now we come to the crux of the debate, determining which cartridge is the better option for hunting.

The simple answer is: It depends.

The consensus across North American and European hunters is that the 270 Winchester is better suited for varmint hunting and medium-sized game while the 30-06 is preferred for medium to larger game.

There is some truth to this belief.

The more common and lighter 120 and 130 grain weigh bullets offered for the 270 Win makes it ideal for taking care of smaller critters that terrorize your property like groundhogs, prairie dogs, or coyotes. These bullets offer a flatter trajectory and hit hard, making short work of any varmint in your sights.

The heavier bullet weights for .270 also do extremely well against whitetail, mule deer, antelope, and feral hogs. A 150 grain Nosler Partition or Barnes TSX will have no issue putting meat in your freezer this hunting season.

But what about larger game that is running around North America, is the 270 Win suited for this role as well?

There is a long-held belief that the 270 is insufficient for elk, perpetuated by tale tales around the campfire or armchair hunting forum gurus who spend more time typing than they do in the woods.

The simple truth is that with proper shot placement and bullet selection, a 270 Win is more than enough to take down an elk. However, I would suggest that this is the upper limit for the 270 Winchester, as when we get into even larger game like black bear, caribou, and moose, you’re going to need something with a bit more power.

Enter the 30-06 Springfield.

Though the 270 is a very versatile cartridge, when you need to take down the largest North American game the 30-06 is hard to beat.

With its heavy-hitting 220 grain factory loads like Hornady InterLock or the Barnes Vor-TX Long Range will make short work of caribou and black bears as they hit hard with excellent penetration and expansion.

It’s well established that the 30-06 is the better choice for large game, but does this mean it can’t play in the varmint arena as well? Decidedly not.

Although not as popular, you can find 30-06 loads for 125 grain weight bullets that would have zero issues taking care of varmints on your property.

The well-known Field and Stream columnist, Jack O’Connor, who was perhaps the biggest proponent of the 270 Winchester, openly admitted that the 30-06 Springfield is the more versatile cartridge.

And for good reason! With its wider range of bullet weights to choose from, the 30-06 offers shooters the versatility to take down varmints and bears alike.

The 30-06 can also be utilized on an African safari as well. Though I’d not recommend it, the 30-06 has been used to take down an elephant, however, a 375 Weatherby Magnum might be a better choice for the largest of African game.

Although many hunters might argue that the flatter shooting 270 Winchester is better suited for varmints, there’s no reason that a 30-06 can’t be used for the same purpose.

To summarize, if your hunting aspirations end at hunting North American elk, then there’s no reason to shy away from a 270 Winchester as it can achieve everything you desire with less felt recoil and a flatter trajectory.

However, if you believe there is the possibility that you’ll go on safari one day to the African plains or you’ve always wanted to go to Alaska to take down a caribou, then the 30-06 Springfield is clearly the better choice as it offers you the versatility you need to take down a wide variety of larger game at long range.

Ammo and Rifle Availability

There is no shortage of ammo options or bolt action rifles when it comes to 270 Win and 30-06.

All the major firearm manufacturers like Remington, Winchester, Savage, Ruger, and Weatherby make rifles chambered in both calibers.

However, as the 30-06 has been around longer and it was also a military cartridge, you will find more rifle options available for 30-06 with some semi-auto options also.

As far as price is concerned, factory new rifles will be equal in price regardless of caliber for most manufacturers. However, as the 30-06 was a military cartridge, there are many surplus rifle options on the secondary market if you don’t want to get the newest, tricked-out long-range hunting rifle and prefer the more classic look.

The same situation is true for ammo. There are simply more factory loads for 30-06 than 270 Winchester as the 30-06 has been around longer as was heavily utilized by the US military in the early part of the 20th Century.

You won’t lack options if you opt for a 270 Winchester, but the 30-06 just offers more as it has been optimized and improved upon more.

The price between these two cartridges is about equal. For the cheaper practice ammo, you should expect to pay around $1.50/round while the premium hunting ammo will go for about $3/round at the time of writing.

Reloading

If you love reloading as I do, then you’re going to have a wonderful time crafting your perfect long-range handloads for both the 270 Winchester and 30-06 Springfield.

There is a wide range of bullets available for both that you can choose from to work up your perfect hunting or long-range target rounds.

However, as the .277” bullet diameter is not commonly used in other cartridges, the 30-06 will offer you more cross-compatibility in terms of components.

For example, if you reload for 30-06 then you can easily reload for 308 Winchester and 300 Win Mag as they fire the same .308” bullet diameter.

Reloading for either of these great cartridges should be a joy as you’ll have plenty of component choices for both, the 30-06 just offers more compatibility with other 30 caliber cartridges.

.270 vs .30-06 Ballistics

The ballistics tables below offer you the opportunity to check out some of your favorite factory loads for both calibers and determine which will be the most effective for your intended use.

Our team here at Ammo.com has done an excellent job compiling manufacture’s data to give you a wide range of bullet weights to choose from.

.270 Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

.30-06 Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

.270 Win History: Winchester’s All-Star Hunting Cartridge

As with many cartridges in the 20th Century, the 270 Winchester got its roots from the 30-06 Springfield.

After the Spanish-American War, the United States Military began the process of creating a new cartridge after seeing the deadly efficiency of the 7x57mm Mauser round in the hands of Spanish troops.

The round that was eventually selected is the lauded 30-06 Springfield which also came with the Army’s new bolt action rifle, the 1903 Springfield. The 30-06 Springfield was designed to fire 150gr bullets at 2,700 fps (feet per second).

The 30-06 was wildly successful and led to wildcatters using the 30-06 as a parent case to make new cartridges. A wildcatter is someone who makes their own custom cartridges that are not commercially available to achieve a specific purpose.

Many wildcatters live true to my personal motto, “Go big or stay home”, and necked up the 30-06 to accept a larger caliber bullet. Two wildcat cartridges that eventually became commercially available were the .35 Whelen and the .400 Whelen.

Winchester decided to take a page out of the Mauser Playbook and necked down the cartridge to accept a smaller diameter bullet that would be fired at a faster muzzle velocity.

The .270 Win was introduced in 1925 and is a necked-down version of the 30-03, the progenitor of the 30-06, to accept a 0.277” diameter bullet.

The original offering of the 270 Winchester came in their Winchester Model 54 bolt action rifle and was designed to fire 130 grain bullets at a muzzle velocity of 3,140 fps.

The decision to use a 0.277” diameter bullet was a somewhat perplexing decision by Winchester as 270 was a much more obscure caliber at the time. By comparison, the much more popular 0.284” diameter bullet was used in the 7x57mm Mauser, 280 Remington, 7mm Remington Magnum, and 7mm-08.

This decision by Winchester meant that the 270 Win was not an immediate commercial powerhouse like the 30-06 and lived in relative obscurity for many years.

Even today there are only a few cartridges that utilize the 0.277” in diameter bullet, the most popular being the 270 Winchester Short Magnum (270 WSM), the 270 Weatherby Magnum, and the 6.8 Remington SPC.

It’s been theorized that Winchester wanted to stay away from popular European bullet designs like the 6.5mm Swiss (and more recently the 6.5 Creedmoor) and 7mm Mauser to make a cartridge that was truly American and wouldn’t be viewed as fashion-drafting off of other gunsmiths’ work.

Regardless of their reasoning, it wasn’t until after WWII that Jack O’Connor began to expound upon his unabashed love affair with the 270 Winchester in Outdoor Life magazine that the cartridge really started to see its popularity grow.

O’Connor had been using the 270 Win in many of his big game hunts and this is what is primarily credited with the rise in popularity of the cartridge.

Since then, the 270 Win has been steadily growing more and more in popularity due to its flatter trajectory, long-range shooting capability, and versatility as a hunting round being able to ethically harvest game animals from groundhogs to elk.

With the ability to shoot lighter bullets from 120gr for small game up to a heavier bullet at 160gr for large game, the 270 Winchester allows you to have ammo versatility that other cartridges only dream about.

30-06 Springfield History: America’s Beloved 30-Caliber Rifle Cartridge

America’s love affair with 30 caliber rifle rounds began back in the Wild West with the introduction of the 30-30 Winchester. Later, the U.S. Army developed the 30-40 Krag to be its smokeless powder replacement for the .45-70 Government.

Around 1901, the U.S. Military started developing a new cartridge to replace the 30-40 Krag. The American Expeditionary Forces were very familiar with the effectiveness of the 7mm Mauser cartridge, suffering staggering losses at the hands of the 1893 Mauser at the Battle of Santiago during the Spanish-American War in Cuba.

It was clear that the 30-40 Krag was an inferior design compared to the Spanish Mausers and the military did not want to fall behind with advancements in bolt action rifle and cartridge technology.

At the time, heavier bullet weights were thought to be the superior ballistic choice. Therefore, the initial design submitted in 1903 used the same 220-grain round-nose bullets fired by the 30-40 Krag.

The 30-03 Springfield was patterned after the famous 7x57mm Mauser cartridge, sharing identical case head dimensions.

However, it didn’t take long for the American generals to take note that multiple European nations were favoring higher velocity, Spitzer (pointed) projectiles in their new bolt action rifles.

Not wanting to get left behind, the U.S. Military was quick to adopt a similar design. In 1906, the new cartridge that fired a Spitzer flat-based 150 grain bullet was submitted and accepted. The original design for 30-06 Springfield achieved a muzzle velocity of 2,700 fps, packed 2,429 ft lbs of muzzle energy, and a maximum pressure of 60,200 psi (SAAMI specs).

And thus the 30-06 Springfield was born. The “30” designates the bullet caliber and the “06” (pronounced: aught six) designates the year of its adoption. The 30-06 Springfield can also be referred to as the 3006 Springfield or just simply as 30-06.

Although the 30-06 initially gained popularity with the Army’s new bolt action rifle, the 1903 Springfield (which looked surprisingly like a Mauser…coincidence I’m sure), it truly became World Famous with the introduction of the semi-auto M1 Garand during World War II.

The 30-06 Springfield was the ammo carried by our soldiers who fought in the trenches on the Western Front in World War I, stormed the beaches of Normandy in WWII, assaulted the 38th Parallel in Korea, and saw limited use in the jungles of Vietnam.

Not only has the 30-06 seen massive success on the battlefield, but it has seen immense commercial success in the civilian market as well. Big game hunters loved the amazing terminal ballistics and long-range that the 30-06 offered while having a recoil impulse that is not punishing to the shoulder.

Since its introduction to the civilian market, the 30-06 has been the de facto hunting cartridge that all other hunting caliber cartridges are measured against. The most popular loadings for 30-06 range between 150 and 180 gr bullet weights with the 180 grain bullet being the most popular with big game hunters. However, specialty ammo can go as low as 110-grain bullets and as high as 220 grain projectiles.

The 30-06 Springfield is incredibly versatile, allowing hunters to customize their loads depending on the game animals they are stalking. Lighter bullet weights like the 150 and 165 gr Nosler Partition or Accubond can be utilized for whitetail or mule deer, while you should have good luck with the 200 gr Barnes TSX when you have a perfect broadside shot lined up on that trophy elk in your crosshairs.

The 30-06 is truly a rifle cartridge of American legend and has survived the test of time, as it is still one of the most popular hunting rounds in the world over 100 years later.

Final Shots: 270 vs 30-06

When it comes to big game hunting, it’s hard to beat these two great cartridges. The 270 Winchester offers a flatter trajectory like the 300 Win Mag as well as the power and penetration necessary to take down whitetail, antelope, and elk all with less recoil.

The 30-06 Springfield is a tried-and-true long-range hunting round that has tackled all different varieties of larger game across North American and the African savannah. Black bears and elk stand no chance against the hard-hitting 30-caliber warhorse and many shooters prefer the heavier bullets the 30-06 can handle.

Which caliber is right for you depends on what you plan to hunt.

If you have zero aspirations of taking on black bears or moose, then the 270 Winchester is the better option as it is an extremely capable long-range cartridge that is flatter shooting and has less recoil but does not sacrifice on terminal ballistics.

If you plan to go hunting in Alaska or Africa in the future, the 30-06 Springfield will ensure these large game animals end up in your freezer or wall and not lost in the bush.

Regardless of which caliber you choose, the most important aspect of big game hunting is shot placement to make sure that the animal does not unnecessarily suffer.

Make sure you stock up on ammo here at Ammo.com as hunting season is quickly approaching and it’s high time you dusted off your rifle and got to the range for some practice!

I will teach you how to legally and safely refill 1 lb propane bottles for the best savings available. If you don’t already know: Coleman 1 lb propane bottles are extremely expensive (Later I will explain why it is dangerous and illegal to refill disposable propane cylinders with a refill kit). You will end up paying around $13.99 for a 4-pack at a big box store or up to $6.99 for a single 1lb cylinder at a convenience store.

Costs of Refilling Your Propane

Compare that to refilling a 5-gallon cylinder. You can get propane by the gallon (not by the pound) for $2.59-$3.50. You get about 8.35 pounds PER gallon. Let’s assume you purchased the Coleman 4-pack which comes to a price of $15.00 after tax (7.25% in CA) and is, therefore, $3.75 per pound. If you get your fuel from a filling station, you only pay $0.332 per pound. You can already see the savings without doing the math.

You will need a refillable 20 lb tank propane tank and the Flame King refill kit $45-$50, which you can find online at FlameKing.com or Sportsmans Warehouse. The kit comes complete with a stand, adapter and a 1lb tank. You can purchase more tanks for about $15.00 each.

Have your own way to mount your tank? You can purchase the adapter here for about $23.00. If you don’t already own a 20 lb tank, you can find one at your local hardware store. I purchased mine at Tractor Supply for about $35.00 (yes, these are some upfront costs, but look at the long-term savings). You can check 20lb tank prices online here. I recommend getting a digital scale for precise measurements but this is optional. I use an AWS digital scale which I purchased on Amazon for around $12.

Once you have all of your equipment, you’re ready to start filling!

How To Refill a 1lb Propane Tank

Place your 20 lb tank upside down on the stand, hook up the adapter and attach your refillable 1 lb propane canister. Use the provided hex key wrench to open the bleed valve on the 1lb tank. Press the valve lever on the adapter and let the process begin. You will start to hear liquid propane enter into the cylinder. The large tank needs to be upside down because you want the liquid propane to fill the small cylinder, not propane in its gaseous state. Otherwise, you’ll only get a fraction of the fuel!

The stand allows you to hold your 20lb tank upside down and hook up the 1lb tank below it without touching the ground. The filling process is pressure equalization in both tanks. Once you see the propane gas start shooting out of the bleeder hole, you know you’re done. This took me a better part of 1 minute to fill.

If you purchased the optional digital scale then you can make precise measurements.

I start by weighing the empty cylinder (make sure your weight setting is in the “oz” mode), press the ‘tear’ button and this will zero the measurement. Then fill the cylinder, place it on the scale, and repeat the process until you reach 16oz (1 pound). You can also weigh the cylinder without tearing the empty weight, write down the weight and add 16oz to the total weight. Once it’s full, you can write down the weight on the cylinder for future use.

That’s it! You’re done and ready to enjoy the savings by never having to purchase another disposable propane tank again! Additionally, you can take a little pride that you’re not dumping precious resources into landfills.

Here is a detailed version of how I did it and the equipment I used.

The stand is designed to support the 20-pound bottle but not to leave it on the stand if you’re not using it. There is no support feature from accidentally knocking the bottle off the stand. It is easy to assemble with a pad, 2 U-shaped support bars, wing nuts, screws, and washers. You don’t need any equipment except your hands to assemble.

The attached propane refill tap station ready-to-use.

The refillable 1 lb tanks each come with a hex key as well as a plastic tank valve cap. I purchased 3 additional one-pound tanks and each came with a hex key.

The propane cylinder cap is threaded and has four rings to easily carry with your fingers or for whatever you wish to use them for. My only complaint is that I was it was a little more sturdy, but they’re a lot better than the disposable caps.

The relief valve is shown just above the main valve.

Pictured is the propane bottle and refill adapter together. You will notice there is a U-shaped protrusion that will fit into the tank valve. This is to prevent the filling of propane cylinders not approved by Flame King (or the Department of Transportation).

The complete set-up with both propane bottles is ready to go. I like how the 1 lb propane tank sits off the ground for easy attachment. The relief valve is easy to access should your propane refill begin to overflow.

Here is where the hex key attaches to the relief valve. Flame King suggests opening the relief valve slightly to allow liquid propane to occupy the space inside the 1 lb propane cylinder.

Once you have everything securely attached, you are ready to operate your refill station. Begin by opening the main valve on your 20 lb propane tank.

Press and hold down on the lever to begin the propane refill process. I personally like how you can start and stop the process by just letting go. As you press down, you will hear the liquid propane start to flow into the smaller propane tank. While you’re filling the propane tank, open the relief valve just a hair. You will hear and smell escaping gas.

This is ok because it’s just the oxygen and gas coming out. The liquid propane is filling from the bottom up and pushing out the oxygen. Once you begin to see a white mist of propane, close the valve on your 1 lb propane cylinder and depress the valve on the propane refill adapter.

That is it! According to Flame King, you have filled the tank to approximately 80% (around 1 lb of fuel).

Once you are finished, it is now time to detach your 1 pound propane cylinder from the tap. This is where gloves will come in handy. First, close the main valve to your 20 lb cylinder.

When removing the 1 lb content from the propane refill station, there is a high chance propane will vent out from the tap. This is extremely cold and could cause a burn to some degree (no pun intended). There is also residual in the tap system and that can spray out cold fuel.

I found that as long as the main valve is closed, you can press the fill lever and release the pressure from the tap. Remove the refill kit from the 20 lb tank and finally take the main propane tank off and flip right side up. Store all your propane tanks in a well-ventilated area. Do not store where any escaping fumes could be collected next to an ignition source (water heater, gas dryer, etc).

As an added measure of safety, I spray soapy water on the end of the 1lb propane tank. If you see small bubbles forming, then you have a leak. Try depressing the main valve and let it snap shut. This usually does the trick. If nothing, then wipe off and you’re ready to store or use. Cheers!

Dangers of Refilling Disposable Propane Cylinders

Now I explain why it is dangerous and illegal to refill those disposable cylinders. Disposable 1 lb propane tanks are convenient for their intended applications and looks like an easy job. Unfortunately, they are not supposed to be refilled and according to federal law, it is illegal to transport refilled disposable cylinders. Getting caught and having it proven that you refilled the tanks seems very unlikely, but it’s still not worth the risk.

Technically, you can refill them so long as you do not transport them and keep them on-site. The valve design has an overflow safety feature that is supposed to release propane if the pressure is too great. I have refilled several containers with a standard refill adapter (which some believe is a great accessory to their camping gear) with no issue and many other people have done this too.

Chances of a critical failure may be low, but I ask you this question: How much is your life, your loved one’s life, or your body worth to you? Is it worth the risk to save a few dollars to refill disposable tanks? I’m one to spend a few extra dollars for better quality material and peace of mind.

Weight Difference Between Propane Tanks

The disposable Coleman DOT 39 propane tanks are much lighter than the Flame King tanks. The disposable tanks have an empty weight of 13.37oz while Flame King is 22.46 oz. A difference of 9.09 oz or over a half pound! That is more metal on the cylinder. Simply holding both empty tanks in hand, you can easily feel the difference in weight.

By comparing both cylinders, one can see the difference in the welding between the 1lb propane tanks. The flame king simply looks more durable while the disposable Coleman propane cylinder is seam welded.

The reason is metal fatigue (learn more about metal fatigue here). Every time you deplete the propane out of the Coleman bottle, the pressure naturally decreases. Refilling the tank quickly introduces pressure back into it. Even with the pressure relief valve, repeating this process a lot of times begins to wear on the structural integrity of the cylinder and it can increase the likelihood of a catastrophic failure. This is especially true around the seam weld.

If you reload ammunition, you know that you can only reload the brass x-amount of times before you have to retire it. Refillable tanks are DESIGNED to be depleted and refilled over many uses, and they’re DOT approved for transport.

If you are dead set on refilling disposable 1 lb propane tanks, customers can purchase a refill kit on Amazon for a price of around $6. Those things are a pretty cheap accessory to your camping gear. I found a high-quality brass adapter at Harbor Freight for $20.00.

Even with that, you need to find a way to support the 20lb tank upside down. Then, you will need to repeat the process of attaching the 1lb propane tank to the adapter, open the valve, fill until you hear the propane stop, bleed the Schrader valve (which reportedly tends to leak after repeated bleeding) or unscrew it, re-attach and repeat until it is full. With the

Flame King, you get the stand, fill valve adapter, and a hex key which allows you to fill a tank in about 1 minute. If you value your time, this is another way to save money.