Today I’m going to show you the best light for coyote hunting on the market today.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over 10 hunting lights alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted them by use. So whether you’re on a budget or looking for the most premium light, you’ll find it here.

Let’s get started!

The 4 Best Light for Coyote Hunting

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best coyote hunting lights:

1. Orion M30C: Best Coyote Hunting Light
2. Ulako Zoomable Green Light: Best for the Budget
3. Wicked Lights W403IC RED: Best Red Coyote Light
4. Predator Tactics Coyote Reaper: Best for Predator Hunting

1. Orion M30C: Best Coyote Hunting Light

The Orion M30C is one of the best lights for coyote hunting on the market today.

Orion is one brand that has never disappointed me, so I was very excited to try this light!

How did it measure up to their other products?

Let’s find out.

Build

The Orion M30C is available in either red or green light. It offers 100% pure light, with no filtering at all.

It’s constructed with aviation-grade aluminum and is scratch and impact-resistant. It’s very durable, waterproof, and heat/cold resistant.

The M30C is made with 3 Cree XP-E2 LED lights, with three different brightness levels including 700 lumens, 400 lumens, and 75 lumens.

This is the brightest hunting light I’ve ever used. I’ve had many good experiences using Orion’s hunting gear, and this light was no different. It’s bright, clear in any environment, and easily portable.

To set the brightness, you turn the bezel at the top of the light. It’s a bit awkward to reach up and turn at first, but it’s easy to get used to and remembers your last brightness setting, even after you turn it off and back on again.

If you purchase the whole light kit, it comes with an AC and car power adapter, two high-quality batteries, and all the mounting gear you could need.

The brightness level you use determines how long you can expect the battery to last. At 75 lumens (the lowest brightness setting), it’ll last 22 hours. At 400 lumens, expect 4.5 hours of use. And at the highest setting of 700 lumens, it’ll last 1.8 hours.

The batteries are rechargeable up to 500 times, and since it comes with a car charger, it’s easy to charge no matter where you are. Plus, you don’t have to worry about overcharging, because it’ll automatically stop once the battery is full.

Use

Orion claims you can see up to 377 yards with this light, but I’ve seen the reflection of eyes from 500+ yards away!

I’d say it takes until you’re around 200 yards away before you can get a good shot, which is still incredibly far.

Coyotes never notice this light. Even from 5 yards away, on the brightest setting, they don’t suspect a thing.

The M30C comes with a tactical mount and all the attachments you need to mount it on virtually any gun’s scope, rail, or barrel.

One of the only downsides of this light is that the beam is not adjustable. It’s not a huge problem, just something that takes a little getting used to.

On some guns, the head may be a bit too large for the barrel connection piece. Again, not a huge issue, it might just rub against the barrel.

Size

This light is relatively small and compact.

The head is 2.5” in diameter, and the tail is 1”. Overall, it’s 6” long.

It’s also pretty lightweight, weighing only 7.6 oz. This is ideal, as it won’t add a lot of weight to your gun.

Price

You can choose to purchase the entire kit, including two batteries; the chargers; and the mounts, or you can purchase just the light.

The kit is available for around $170, while the light itself goes for about $120. In my opinion, it’s worth the extra $50 for the whole kit!

This is a light that’s absolutely worth the money you’ll spend. It’s guaranteed to be one of the best varmint hunting lights you’ll ever use.

Is the Orion M30C Worth it?

If you’re a seasoned coyote hunter, you know that lights are an indispensable part of any hunting trip.

Like turkey hunters need turkey calls, coyote hunters need coyote lights.

Coyotes are nocturnal animals, so you need the right equipment to be able to see through the pitch-black of night.

If you’re a newbie coyote hunter looking for the perfect accessories, the Orion M30C is the best, brightest light I’ve ever owned. It makes coyote hunting completely effortless.

2. Ulako Zoomable Green Light: Best for the Budget

If you’re looking for an affordable hunting light, look no further than the Ulako Zoomable Green Light.

Every nighttime hunter needs a light, and green lights are great because you can see your game, but your game can’t see you.

Many top hunting lights retail for $100+, but the Ulako will run you less than $30!

Does the company sacrifice quality in their pursuit of an affordable green light?

Let’s find out.

Build

The Ulako Green Light is made with a convex lens, powered by an included rechargeable battery. In a pinch, it’ll also run on 3 AAA batteries.

It’s made of very durable aluminum alloy, and it’s both waterproof and shockproof. I’ve had mine for over a year, hunted in just about every environmental condition you can imagine (sometimes multiple times per week!), and never had a single issue with it.

The Ulako also features dual switches. The tactical on/off switch is located on the tail cap, and the toggle pressure, momentary on-switch is located near the pressure pad. The dual switches give the user versatility and offer easy operation.

Overall, it’s a very simple yet rugged green light. The bright green light gives you long-distance visibility without alerting game to your presence.

Use

Ulako claims this light can extend to a maximum distance of 300 meters. In my experience, this seems to be true. However, you get the best visibility up to about 150 meters.

It projects a crisp, bright, and steady beam at long and short distances. Visibility is great, even in fog and rain. You can easily get a clean shot at any nocturnal pests, big or small, and they won’t be spooked by the green light.

One great thing about this light is that the zoom is adjustable. With the zoom fully extended, you get a small, concentrated, square-shaped beam. When you slide the focus inward, it changes to a less concentrated, medium to large, round beam.

The zoom is smooth, precise, and easy to adjust.

The battery is specifically designed for high-powered hunting flashlights, and you can expect a run time of 4+ hours on a full charge. The charging indicator light changes from red to green once the battery is fully charged, so there’s no need to worry about over or undercharging.

The Ulako fits tubes sized 25-30mm and mounts/unmounts easily.

Size

At just 14.4 oz, this is a relatively lightweight light that’ll fit nicely on any gun without weighing it down.

It’s 5.3” long (6’3” when fully extended) and 1.4” wide.

Price

The entire Zoomable Green Light kit is available for just $25.95.

This kit includes the light, quick release mount, Picatinny mount, pressure switch, rechargeable battery, and charger.

The rechargeable battery is especially useful, especially if you regularly hunt at night. It’ll save you countless pennies on replacement battery after replacement battery.

You may be wary of this light because its price is almost too good to be true! However, you can be assured that Ulako provides great quality at an even better price.

Is the Ulako Zoomable Green Light Worth it?

The Ulako Zoomable Green Light is the best option for the money by far.

Ulako offers a very dependable light that lets you get the best shot in the worst conditions.

It’s great for newbie nighttime hunters, as it functions simply and is very easy to operate.

If you’re a hunter on a budget searching for predator hunting lights reviews online, you might be discouraged by the high price of a lot of the top options. However, this is a fantastic light that won’t break the bank.

I would recommend it to any nighttime hunter who needs a good, affordable green light.

3. Wicked Lights W403IC RED: Best Red Coyote Light

The Wicked Lights W403IC RED is one of the best red coyote hunting lights available.

It’s purpose-built, durably engineered, and incredibly bright.

How does the W403IC measure up to competitors?

Let’s find out!

Build

The W403IC is precision-made with T6 aircraft-grade aluminum, with type III hard anodization. The entire assembly is produced by a certified LED manufacturer, ensuring consistent color and quality.

It comes with the Intensity Control Rheostat tail cap, which doubles as a push on/off switch. This allows you to set the light intensity level before you even turn the light on, and gives you infinite control of the brightness in order to spook fewer animals.

The zoom focus uses Wicked Lights’ Scan & Kill technology. While many other lights have a series of grooves, forcing the user to turn the knob numerous times to change the focus from flood to zoom, the W403IC has a single, deep groove for quick adjustments.

It features a built-in halo shield, eliminating any possibility of light spills, and has a taller lens than other similar lights for greater magnification.

The fully adjustable mounting hardware and Picatinny scope mount fits 1” and 30mm tubes. The light is o-ring sealed for water resistance, and it’s operable in temperatures ranging from -30 – 120 degrees Fahrenheit.

Use

Wicked Lights claims you can get 400 yards of visibility with this light. From what I’ve seen, this seems to be accurate! I’ve even seen eyes reflecting from 500+ yards away. You can expect to get a good shot from about 300 yards.

This light is very bright, durable, and operates as advertised. My battery lasts an average of 2.5 hours on a full charge, but this depends on the level of intensity you choose to use.

The Intensity Control tail cap is one of the best features of this light. You can set it low at first, then gradually brighten it as you need. This helps condition the animal to the light, as they won’t notice a low light that gradually gets brighter as much as a sudden bright light!

You adjust the zoom focus with a bezel, which allows you to easily and quickly switch from spot to flood with one simple twist.

Another great feature is the two-piece, adjustable mount design. You can quickly attach the light to your gun and zero in on your target.

Size

At the scope mount, the body diameter is 1”. Overall, the light is 7.28” long when not extended, and 7.72” when fully extended.

With the battery installed, it’s a relatively lightweight 15.6 oz.

Price

The entire W403IC kit MSRPs for $189.95.

This includes the light, 2-position battery charger with AC/DC adapters, 2 Lithium-ion batteries, the adjustable windage and elevation mount kit, and a plastic case.

For added peace of mind, this price includes a three-year limited warranty on the light itself and a one-year limited warranty on the accessories.

Is the Wicked Lights W403IC Worth it?

The Wicked Lights W403IC RED light is one of the brightest, best hunting lights on the market. It’s a must-have for anyone who regularly goes hunting at night.

Specifically designed to target coyotes; hogs; foxes; and even smaller game, including raccoons, this light will not let you down.

4. Predator Tactics Coyote Reaper: Best for Predator Hunting

The Predator Tactics Coyote Reaper XXL is the best predator hunting light of its kind.

The beam throw is unmatched and the adjustable focus gives you a clear picture, no matter how zoomed in you are!

How does it compare to similar lights?

Let’s find out!

Build

The Coyote Reaper is made with aluminum alloy and comes in a sleek, matte black finish. It’s waterproof and functional in temperatures down to -20 degrees Fahrenheit, so you can use it in a variety of environmental conditions.

It runs on a single rechargeable battery, but Predator Tactics also sells a battery extension tube that holds two batteries for a longer runtime. The battery extension tube does add a little weight, so keep that in mind if you’re considering adding one.

For added concealment, the Coyote Reaper includes a rubber halo shield.

One downside of this light is that the included universal mount is a bit difficult to adjust. I’d recommend considering a Predator Tactics windage elevation adjustable rail mount, which is easy to install and lets you aim much more easily.

Overall, the Coyote Reaper is a solid choice. Predator Tactics designs and manufactures high-quality hunting gear, and this light is no exception.

Use

Predator Tactics claims that the Coyote Reaper gives up to 700 yards of beam throw. Speaking from personal experience, this light seems to work precisely as advertised.

I haven’t tried using it from exactly 700 yards yet, but from 500+ yards, you can easily see and identify different animals in pitch-black conditions. The picture is very clear, regardless of the zoom settings.

The Coyote Reaper comes with an adjustable focus, good for varying range. The light quality is great, and it’s bright enough to zoom in without any pixelation or graininess.

Controlling the focus is a bit difficult to understand at first, so it’s best to become familiar with the controls before using it for any serious hunting.

The intensity control dial on the tail cap doubles as a remote on/off switch and can be easily and silently controlled without ever moving your hands from a shooting position.

However, it’s also easy to bump the switch and turn the light on accidentally – and you won’t notice, since it’s in IR, until you go to turn it on and see you have a dead battery!

To prevent this, I always make sure to just loosen the tail cap one extra turn.

The average battery runtime can vary greatly based on the brightness you use. In fact, I’ve hunted two nights in a row on one battery charge before!

Overall, I’d say the average total runtime is around 4 hours.

Size

The Coyote Reaper is 8.5” long.

It’s relatively lightweight, weighing around 17 oz, so you don’t have to worry about it weighing you down while you’re running through the woods!

Price

The entire XXL Rifle kit sells for $189.95. It includes green and red LED lights, a universal scope mount to attach it to a rifle scope or Picatinny rail, a rechargeable Lithium-ion battery, a charger, and a plastic carry case.

It’s not a cheap light, but it’s a pretty great value for one of the best predator hunting lights.

Even better, this price includes a lifetime light shell warranty; two-year LED bulb module and tail cap circuitry warranty; one-year remote switch, mount, and charger warranty; and a 30-day battery warranty!

Is the Coyote Reaper Worth it?

The Predator Tactics Coyote Reaper XXL is one of the best performing lights of its kind.

It’s ideal for nighttime predator, hog, and coyote hunting, helping you see better for more positive target acquisition.

I would 100% recommend this light to any nighttime hunter.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best light for coyote hunting guide.

So as a recap:

If you’re looking for the best coyote hunting light, get the Orion M30C.

If you’re on a budget, I’d recommend getting the Ulako Zoomable Green Light. It’s affordable and dependable.

The Wicked Lights W403IC RED is the best red coyote light. It is durable and incredibly bright.

Lastly, if you’re looking for the best for predator hunting, then the Predator Tactics Coyote Reaper is what you are looking for.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which hunting light will you pick?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment

Take a look at selecting shot size and choke size for bobwhite quail hunting

Nowadays, I use a 20-gauge, over-under Beretta 686 Silver Pigeon choked in skeet and modified, respectively. When I walk out into the uplands with a 30-inch barrel, I have a bad habit of slinging my gun over my shoulder a little too confidently. Why? Because the gun is a nice piece and I can trust that my No. 6 shot Kent Cartridge loads will consistently drop the explosive, bobwhite quail.

And, if you really want to be picky about it, I prefer to shoot my game birds with steel shot. I personally just don’t want lead in my meat, but that part is up to you.

If you think about the flight and escape habits of quail in their natural habitat, often they will sit tight in cover and hold for a pointing dog—assuming you have a pointing breed. Outside of that, if you’re anything like me, you’ve got a flushing retriever and you keep your actions closed and barrels loaded. There’s no time for tea, but I digress. Quail will flush fairly close and will often provide a reasonable shot if you take a little time to breathe before the shot.

What shot size is best for bobwhite quail?

If Prince Bob gives the pup a half-a-time-a-day, you should have within a 20 to 40 yard shot on a flushing bird. If you want more options, you’ve got the choice of No. 8 as well. I often skip over No. 7 1/2 simply because every time I shoot them birds never seem to fall dead on. My dog tends to do a little more work with the No. 7 1/2 shot as birds—yes, little 6-ounce bobwhites—seem to run off.

I think there may be some kind of jinx with me and No. 7 1/2, but, regardless, I do not recommend them for quail. Blame it on my Southern superstition if it pleases you, but regardless, you won’t catch me shooting them anymore.

What gauge is best for bobwhite quail?

It is my thought that if you’re reading this you have some kind of appreciation for the finer things in life. Why? Because you are chasing Mr. Bob. You’ve got some kind of fine shooting dog who’s working the heavy cover, thorns, and thickets that house and host our quarry. In addition to that pretty dog, you also likely have a nice-looking over-under Beretta like mine or your Grandaddy’s Winchester Model 12 pump gun.

At a time, Grandaddy was a quail specialist and now you’re in his footsteps. Either way, bobwhite quail hunting requires a bit of class and nostalgia, so shoot a gun that means something to you. The bird demands that much respect; the dog demands that much respect. Further, the habitat and landscape demand that footsteps be left by dog and man, birds are successfully retrieved in full, and memories are made along the way.

Wild Game Recipes: Spicy Brandy Cranberry Glazed Quail

I’ve shot quail with 12- through 28-gauge shotguns and even attempted with a 98-year-old .410. That didn’t last long due to more wasted gun power than shot birds. My choice gauges for wild bobwhite quail are primarily 20-gauges and secondarily, the classic 16-gauge side-by-side. Ammunition for 20-gauge shotguns is typically more readily available, especially in a pinch, though I would highly recommend soft-shooting 16-gauge RST shells if you prefer to run that gauge. For an older shotgun especially, the RST shells are a much lighter shooting load than most others and will put a little less wear and tear on Grandaddy’s old gun.

Concluding thoughts about hunting bobwhite quail

For sake of length, I will conclude because I’ve got a knack for talking shotguns to great length.

Obviously, if you have not noticed, I am a bit biased towards No. 6 loads because they are a size that’s been proven time and again. In the world of consumerism, many manufacturers are constantly producing loads for one reason or another. To this day I still do not understand the need for 3 1/2-inch loads and one definitely does not need them for a 6-ounce bird—2 3/4 inch shells will suffice. Further, quail are fairly fragile birds, so shooting No. 6 or No. 8 shot has been proven effective.

Much of a man’s quail shooting ineptitude comes not from selecting the wrong shot size, but from the hunter’s irreverence to the ethics of hunting. Ethical hunting is inclusive of finding and retrieving downed game, with or without a dog.

For many like myself, hunting with a dog is essential for not just the experience of following a dog through the woods, but also to increase my chances of finding downed game. Shooting No. 6 for me has additionally made retrieving shot birds significantly easier as seldom do I find crippled birds or runners.

Configuring your shot size, pattern, choke and barrel length as well as studying the habits of the birds themselves all come together to make a complete and successful hunting experience. Hunting ethically is understanding all aspects of your shotgun including the best shot size and gauge, and with respect to Bob, I would rather chase game birds in a dignified and ethical manner. That means shooting No. 6 shot (preferably steel) through any gauge, .410 through 12, choosing a skeet and/or modified choke configuration, as well as bringing along an enthusiastic pup that will find and retrieve your game.

How Public Land Bobwhite Quail Shift Patterns

Understanding Bobwhite Quail Behavior

Plantation Quail – A Southern Bobwhite Film

How Native Prairies Can Help Save Bobwhite Quail

There are so many reasons to want to add ducks to your homestead – ease of care, eggs, meat, insect control, and entertainment, to name a few.

For me, though, one of the most incredible things about raising ducks is how much they poop. Yes – I know, this isn’t something most people talk about (at least not in public). But, if you are a homesteader and growing your food, finding good sources of fertilizer for your garden and edible landscapes is a top priority.

So, I say yahoo for duck poo! And here’s why:

1. Quantity: You get about 0.065 pounds of poop per day, per pound of laying chicken. But you get 0.11 pounds of poop per pound of duck per day. Although it may not sound like a big difference, if you have ten ducks that are 6 pounds each, that means 6.6 pounds of manure per day on average. The same 60 pounds worth of laying hens gets you 3.9 pounds of poop per day. In a year, using ducks as a source of fertilizer, you get almost 1000 pounds more duck poop from a similarly sized flock.
2. Nutrient Content: Almost all livestock manure is awesome for your garden (so long as the animals were raised well), but duck poop is the bomb! Duck poop is basically like a 2.8:2.3:1.7 NPK fertilizer. According to the same source, no other livestock manure has NPK ratio this high. The closest one is turkey with 2.8/2.4/1.2 but with less poop per pound per day. This means with duck you get the most poop per day and you need the least poop to get the same level of fertilizer.
3. Dispersal: Duck poop is more liquid than other forms of manure which mean between regular rain and ducks plodding over it, duck manure disperses very quickly into the soil.

Now that you know why duck poop is such a powerful source of fertilizer on the homestead let’s talk about a few ways to use it.

Ways to Use Duck Poop to Fertilize Your Garden

Method 1: Edible Access

Letting your ducks wander directly through your edible landscapes is an excellent way to spread the ‘goodness’ with minimal work on your part. But there are a few things you need to know though.

Ducks need direction. They are creatures of habit, and if you just let them have total access to your landscape at all times, they will forage a bit. Then they’ll spend the rest of their day lounging out in their favorite places. If they are allowed to lounge too long in any one area, they overload areas with poop and stifle plant growth.

If you want to move ducks around your landscape, get them in the habit of following you to a new area every few days using a feed bucket. Fill kiddie pools with water and set them in that location to encourage ducks to stick around. Make sure there are shaded areas and sunny spots so ducks can be comfortable.

Sometimes just moving their food and water sources to new areas, full of fresh weeds and bugs, will be enough to direct their droppings. However, if you happen to have a large pond or more alluring spaces that might tempt ducks away from their work, then you will have to use temporary fencing to keep ducks where you want them.

When using ducks in undeveloped areas with no shade, you can create temporary shelters using straw bales, stakes, and tarps.

Electric poultry netting works well so long as you have an excellent charger. Ducks are heavily feathered and tend to be more resistant to shock discouragement than other kinds of livestock.

For birds that don’t fly well, just putting up inexpensive plastic netting (e.g. the 100-foot rolls you can get for deer protection) around garden stakes can also work well to keep most of your ducks contained. Since ducks tend to stick together, as long as most of them stay in the designated areas, even escape artist ducks will linger close to the confinement area.

This method works best in established edible landscapes with mature plants, for example under fruit trees. It also works well to develop new areas that have not yet been planted. Avoid letting ducks wander among newly planted areas as disturbed soil encourages them to dig for insects with their beaks. Ducks also tend to trample tender plants.

Method 2: Water Your Growing Areas with Pond Water

If you have a permanent pond that ducks swim and poop in, you can usually directly water your garden and edible landscape areas with your pond water. You can simply dip a bucket and dump it where you need it. Or you can get a bit more sophisticated and use gravity or pumps to do the work for you.

If you are just getting started and can choose where to site your duck pond, aim high. If your pond is higher than the rest of your landscape, you can use gravity to do the work of moving duck water for you.

One of our ponds sits uphill from our garden. We have a flock of ducks that live on and around that pond during the growing season. All we have to do to move water from the pond to our garden, is put one end of a hose in our pond, create a suction to draw out the water, and then let it run downhill to our garden.

We’re super low-tech around here. So we connected our pond hose to our house hose bib. We turned on the water from our house and let it run until it was pouring out at the pond. Then we turned off the water at the house which then began to draw back the water from the pond. We quickly connected our hose to a float valve. The float valve keeps that suction we created on all the time.

We put the float valve on a 55-gallon drum, so we always have a ready supply of water in the garden. We can also just take off the float valve and directly water our garden using the hose any time we want. Then we can reconnect the float valve to stop the flow and keep the suction going.

If you don’t have a high pond, then you’ll have to look into pumps. Electric, gas, and even human-powered pumps can all work. You just have to do some research to make sure you get the right pump to move water over both the distance and elevation change to your edible landscape locations.

Kiddie ponds can be emptied daily directly under fruit trees and other established plants.

Method 3: Compost your Duck Litter

I confine my ducks at dusk until about 9:00 am to collect their eggs and keep them safe from predators. It also makes it easier for me to collect their overnight manure.

As we mentioned earlier, duck poop is a bit runny. So, you can’t just scrape and sweep it up like you can with chickens. Given the quantity produced, you’re going to need a lot of litter to keep your ducks from dancing in doo each night. But that’s OK because:

Litter + Poop = Compost

Since hay grows well in my area, is super cheap, and is almost always minimally sprayed, I use hay as duck litter. It takes about one square bale of hay each week for 20 ducks.

Each morning when I let the ducks out, I dump their water around their duck house to more evenly disperse their manure. I layer on about an inch of fresh hay. Straw, wood shavings, and sawdust will also work.

At night, I fill their water and food bowls and close the ducks in at night. The next day I dump the water and apply hay. I do this for about two weeks. Then I use a pitchfork and move all that manured hay into a compost pile. I usually just build the pile to about 4 feet high by 4 feet wide and let it sit there for six months until it is mostly black and crumbly.

Method 4: Don’t Want to Build a Pile? Go Mobile!

If pitchforking poop is not your thing, then think about a mobile duck coop. Ducks don’t like to climb ramps and roost high as chickens do. So consider using a movable chain link cube with wheels and a tarp top as a duck house alternative.

You can just let ducks have the floor overnight. Add in a couple of movable nest boxes (or not since ducks don’t necessarily use them anyway), and you’re set!

Put your coop in place. Use the same procedure detailed above for a fixed coop. Then after two weeks move your coop. Leave all that good stuff in place, and come back and plant in it a month later.

If you have a lot of predator pressure, consider an electric fence to protect your ducks at night better.

Method 5: Duck and Cover (Crops)

If your land is light on organic matter, consider using ducks to help you with your cover cropping. After using either the Go Mobile or the Edible Access method, plant your cover crops.

When you would normally bring in the mower to chop and drop all those cover crops, instead bring back the ducks. The ducks will eat your cover crops, apply more poop, and smother whatever they don’t eat. Then you can move the ducks off, plant your next round cover crop and repeat. If you do this several times, you’ll build soil mass in a hurry and help cut your duck feed costs as well.

Make sure you plant things that are edible for your ducks. Most cover crops are, but do a little research just to be sure. Buckwheat, hard winter wheat, tillage radishes, mustard, rye, Austrian peas, and clovers all work well.

I don’t know about you, but I think all these great ways to use duck poop around the homestead are worth crowing about! So, say it with me…

DUCK-ER-DOO-DLE-DOO!!

The whip-hand dominance of the .223 Rem. has littered the boneyard with nearly all other 22-cal. center-fire cartridges; however, the .221 Rem. Fireball remains just outside that acre’s gate because informed handloaders look at it from a different perspective than those who see it as merely a short .223. Besides, you have to like a cartridge with a cool-sounding name such as “Fireball.”

The .221 case is a close copy of the .223. Both cases have the same head diameter, shoulder angle, neck length and maximum average pressure (MAP) of 55,000 p.s.i. The only difference is that the .221 is shortened 0.3674 inches in the body. That reduces its propellant capacity to 60 percent of the .223s. But loaded with the proper propellants, the .221 produces about 90 percent of the .223’s velocity with bullets weighing up to 55 grains.

Beginnings

This short cartridge was initially chambered in Remington’s XP-100 bolt-action single-shot handgun in 1963. From the XP-100’s original 10.75-inch barrel, the .221 fired 50-grain bullets at about 2600 f.p.s. The XP-100’s barrel was eventually lengthened to 14.5 inches and chambered in other .22-cal. cartridges such as the .223 Rem. and .22-250 Rem. The .221 chambering lasted until 1985. For a while Thompson/Center chambered the cartridge in its Contender single-shot handgun. The .221 languished in neglect until 2002 when Remington gave it a face-lift as a rifle cartridge in its Model 700 Classic rifle. The last year Remington chambered the cartridge was in 2007 in the Model 700 Light Varmint Stainless Fluted rifle.

The CZ 527 American and the Model 21 from Cooper Firearms of Montana are the only rifles currently chambered in .221 by major manufacturers. The Cooper folks say the .221 is nowhere near as popular as the .204 Ruger or .223 Rem. But the cartridge has a following, and they sell about as many rifles chambered in the Fireball as they do rifles in .22 Hornet.

A Cooper Model 21 Montana Varminter was used to shoot the loads for this article. The Varminter is intended for shooting from a rest, with style. The oil finish highlights the running grain of its AA+ claro walnut stock with a beavertail fore-end. The Model 21 is a single-shot. Pushing forward the three-lug bolt picks up a cartridge from the loading pan, feeding it into the chamber. The sample rifle’s trigger has a perfect 2-pound pull.

Handloading

The Fireball case is only a smidgen larger than the Hornet case. The 3 to 8 grains of additional propellant the .221 holds, though, result in a gain of 600 f.p.s. over the Hornet with bullets of the same weight. Care should be taken when developing loads for a cartridge as small as the .221 because a big increase in velocity and pressure results from a small increase in propellant. From the Cooper Model 21’s 24-inch barrel, Nosler 35-grain Ballistic Tip Lead Free bullets had an average velocity of 2752 f.p.s. powered by 17.0 grains of H4198. Stepping up the propellant to 17.5 grains increased velocity to 2949 f.p.s. An additional 0.5 grain jumped speed to 3034 f.p.s, and 18.5 grains upped the velocity to 3,296 f.p.s.

Relatively fast-burning propellants such as Hodgdon’s H4198, Lil’Gun and Accurate 1680 are a key to loading the .221. Lil’Gun is a great propellant for the Fireball shooting lightweight bullets. From two other .221 rifles, Lil’Gun fired Berger 30-grain Varmint bullets at nearly 3900 f.p.s. and Nosler 35-grain Ballistic Tip Lead-Free bullets at 3700 f.p.s. From the Cooper Varminter, Hornady 40-grain V-MAX bullets reached 3270 f.p.s. with 15.0 grains of the propellant and 3460 f.p.s. with 15.5 grains.

Relatively slow-burning propellants provide a more sustained push to 50-grain and heavier bullets. Lil’Gun and A1680 are still good choices as well as H335, H4198, N130 and Reloder 7.

Heavier bullets also provide more uniform velocities. The 30- and 35-grain bullets had extreme spreads of velocity of up to 200 f.p.s with several different propellants. But spreads shrank to less than 50 f.p.s. with 40-grain bullets and down to 10 f.p.s. with 50 and 55-grain bullets.

How close to seat bullets to rifling lands for the best accuracy is a matter of hundredths of an inch. Bullets close to, or even in contact with, the rifling are thought to function with improved accuracy because they make less of an unsupported “jump” before engaging it. That minimizes the chance of bullets entering the rifling at an angle and flying into left field. Just as important, though, bullets seated straight with the centerline of case necks align with the chamber throat to ensure they enter the rifling straight, even if they have to move a ways to engage it.

The .221’s maximum cartridge length is 1.830″. However, Nosler 55-grain Ballistic Tips just touch the rifling lands of the Cooper .221 with a cartridge length of 1.873 inches. The Cooper rifle has no magazine, so that long cartridge length fits fine. A smidgen shorter cartridge length, though, ensures easy extraction of an unfired cartridge from the chamber. Also, pressures tend to be greater when bullets do not have a bit of a running start before contacting rifling.

To determine if accuracy was better with bullets seated just short of the rifling compared to seated back a ways, I loaded 10 cartridges each with the Ballistic Tips seated with an overall length of 1.850 inches and 1.830 inches. Before shooting I ran the cartridges through a Hornady Lock-N-Load Concentricity Tool. The majority of the bullets were absolutely true with the case necks but a few varied up to 0.002 inches. The longer cartridges averaged 0.96 inches for two, five-shot groups. The shorter cartridges averaged 0.95 inches.

Shooting

After firing 20 shots at a fast pace, the Cooper’s barrel was lukewarm and the front third remained cold. Even though the temperature was in the 20s, heat rising from the barrel created barely any mirage through the Leupold 14X riflescope. Recoil was so mild that the crosshairs scarcely jumped off target, and often I saw bullet holes appear instantly. The Cooper Varminter shot well. It probably would have shot even tighter groups, but there was the shiver factor to consider from the cold temperatures. It helped, though, thinking about warm spring days ahead and green fields of ground squirrels and prairie dogs.

SOMEWHERE there may be wise, funny, charitable iguanas, and some of you may keep them as pets. But squinting up into a mangrove tree in southern Puerto Rico, trying to resolve a red-eyed, hissing wild iguana in the confusion of slender green leaves, it’s hard to imagine these lizards as anything but back-alley larcenists. Lunch-money bullies. Grifters.

Maybe it’s the air rifle in my hand that places me in such stark opposition to these iguanas, but I admit it: It’s deeply satisfying to shoot these invasive opportunists that are quickly taking over the island. There is also a sensory reward. Thwap spits the gun. Thwunk announces the meeting of hol­lowpoint pellet and leather. If it’s a good shot, the sound of a 10-pound lizard free-falling through the limbs and smacking on the ground. Crash! Thud!

I’m here, not far inland from the port city of Ponce, to help reduce the infestation of non-native iguanas that are causing many millions of dollars in damage to fruit orchards, crop fields, and even highways and other infrastructure. Because Puerto Rican firearms laws are either restrictive (minority opinion) or confusing (majority opinion), my group has opted to hunt the reptiles with air rifles—new .35-caliber Carnivores from the Turkish company Hatsan. For the first day, we do pretty well. Between five shooters, we drop maybe 40 iguanas from the treetops.

The Romans are part of a loose confederation of Puerto Rican damage-control volunteers who get invitations from large landowners to kill as many iguanas as they can. Some of these reptile-ridders are self-styled rogues who call themselves “Los Iguaneros” and have made desperado-themed videos that you can see on YouTube. The Romans are a little more restrained with their self-promotion. But they are deadeye killers, all the same. In my first day hunting with the family, we dispatch nearly 100 lizards.

An Island-Wide Pest

Puerto Rico’s iguana problem started, in all likelihood, with a few pets released into the wild. Those outcasts met and bred, and soon their progeny, feral and ravenous, started moving around the island, following the coastline at first, but about 10 years ago, they started moving inland. Initially, iguanas were considered a novelty. But in just a few years, populations went from scattered to dense, and from nuisance to environmental catastrophe. There is no part of the island where you won’t find the invaders gauchly lounging in trees, but they are particularly troublesome in the countryside, where they eat or damage as much as a quarter of the crops. And in a United States territory that’s teetering on the brink of economic collapse, any reduction of its export business is taken seriously. The favorite foods of iguanas are banana, papaya, and melon.

Because of their habit of burrowing deep underground to make nests—each female lays around 70 eggs twice a year—iguanas have also been blamed for highway collapses and sidewalks that crack and slump. Even the main international airport in San Juan has been affected by the lizards. Iguanas love to bask on hot surfaces, and it’s not uncommon for the airport’s runways to close on summer afternoons so they can be cleared of lizards, which can flatten tires and even be sucked into the turbines of jet engines.

Experts estimate Puerto Rico’s iguana population to be between 10 million and 14 million, but because the reptiles have no natural predators here and because of all the food they can find and eat, the population is expected to double every year or two. And that’s where the Romans come in.

Air Strikes

Alex Echevarria Roman is 23 years old and formally polite. But he has eyes like a falcon and has probably collected more pounds of wild meat with an air rifle than anyone I’ll ever know. For the last 10 years, he has roamed Puerto Rico with his family, trying to kill every iguana they see. As we talked, we walked through a stand of trees on the edge of a large mango plantation, and every few minutes, Roman would stop, point up, direct my aim (“Shoot for the spot just behind the eye”), and wait for me to drop an iguana before continuing.

“We distribute our phone numbers around the countryside and tell people, mostly big-scale farmers, to call us when iguanas get out of control,” he tells me as I settle my crosshairs on an avocado-green 5-footer. “At first, we’d get a few calls a month, but now, we can’t keep up. We come to a farm like this one [outside Ponce], but it’s not possible to control them. We can kill 100 iguanas in a spot, and return a day or two later and kill 100 more.”

I hit the lizard a little too far back. This is a bad thing, because unless you hit a cold-blooded iguana just behind the eye, it won’t die instantly. Instead, it may scurry around the trunk and out of sight, or it may hang up in a crotch. Or, like this one, it may drop out of the tree, ready to fight. To see a wounded iguana on the ground is to see a Japanese Godzilla flick come to life. The lizards hiss, they flare their frills, and they often charge their persecutors, trying to whip them with their saw-sharp tail. They remind me of the sneaky, venomous dilophosauridae from Jurassic Park, and I don’t mind telling you they freak me out a little bit.

“We mainly use air rifles,” Roman continues after I dispatch the wounded lizard and regain my composure. “Partially because they’re much cheaper to shoot [than firearms], but also because in Puerto Rico you can only use firearms during fall hunting season for pigeon. But it’s legal year-round to hunt iguanas with air rifles. My favorite time is February, during the breeding season. Then, the machos can get very aggressive.”

Roman prefers .22-caliber air rifles for their flat trajectory and accuracy. I’m shooting a hard-hitting .35-caliber pellet out of my Hatsan PCP (pre-charged pneumatic), and after about 20 shots, I have to swap out air reservoirs that we filled earlier in the day from a big scuba tank in the back of Alex’s pickup. The Hatsan shoots 82-grain pellets that look almost exactly like bullets from a .380 semi-auto. Even imperfect shots hit so hard they generally knock the lizard out of the trees. Thwap. Thwunk. Crash. Thud.

After a couple of hours of Roman’s guidance, I get pretty good at seeing and hitting the cryptically colored iguanas. I feel as though we’re hunting unwholesome squirrels as we move quietly through the trees, like we’re hunting unwholesome squirrels. And just like with squirrels, the shots get harder as we go. These reptiles are keenly aware that humans mean danger. Once we kill a few, the rest either climb high into the foliage or morph into the bark—like the chameleons they are related to, they can change colors to match their surroundings, so often the only way to spot one is to spy their long striped tails—or they drop out of the trees into a shallow creek and swim away. The biggest iguana I kill is nearly 6 feet long and about 10 pounds; the average measures 4 feet from scaly nose to whippy tail.

The largest iguana Alex has killed was a female that weighed 18 pounds and stretched over 7 feet.

Chicken of the Trees

By the end of the day, we have collected dozens of iguanas, and have tried to keep them out of the searing Puerto Rican heat until we can clean them. They will be tonight’s dinner. Their scaly thighs elicit competing responses. These are repulsive reptiles that sometimes carry salmonella. But you work up an appetite gunning dinosaurs all day.

So we clean a few dozen of the meatiest specimens and take them back to the farmhouse that we use as a gathering place. There’s an outdoor grill with red-hot coals. While someone prepares arroz con gandules (rice with peas), the iguana tails and thighs sizzle and pop.

The taste is, predictably, like chicken. But even more accurately, it’s like a tough, dry scallop. The texture lends itself to being slow-cooked in a sauce, like a cacciatore. Between mouthfuls, I ask my hosts if iguana is commonly eaten here. When they laugh uncomfortably, Alex explains that while iguana is considered a delicacy in other parts of Latin America, where the reptiles are indigenous, Puerto Ricans never acquired a taste for them. Like me, they tend to be repulsed by the lizards.

That’s part of the problem with controlling iguana numbers here. There’s no market for their meat, and so little incentive to hunt them.

It occurs to me that as much as I want to vilify the iguanas, they are doing what every other organism does—they’re making a living however they can. And it’s a good living, with nothing to stop their steady expansion except the physical limitations of the island. And a few thousand more airgun-equipped hunters.

As we leave the farm, I see the only naturally killed iguana of my week on Puerto Rico. Its decomposing body is stuck in a hurricane fence around a demolition site, too fat to fit through the links.

Read more OL+ stories. This feature originally ran in the May 2016 issue of Outdoor Life.

17 WSM: Is the Rimfire Speed King Worth It?

Designed and produced in 2002, the 17 Hornady Magnum Rimfire is pretty new in terms of cartridges, but there is an even newer kid on the block. The 17 Winchester Super Mag (WSM), has been in production since 2013 and is attempting to cut out a piece of the marketplace for a faster 17, and since the cases are made from nail blanks, they’re pretty inexpensive (very similar in cost to 17 HMR.) But is it fast enough?

Price update Sept 2022: 17 HMR is going for about $25 per box of 50 while 17 WSM is pretty close at about $30 per box.

Performance Comparison: Trajectory and Drift

The 17 WSM sends a 20 grain bullet out at 3000 fps, whereas the HMR is sending a 17 grain bullet at 2550 fps. That makes for some difference in the field, with the HMR granting an MPBR of 165 yards, whereas the WSM can do it with 205 yards (I’m running calculations for gopher-sized targets). That’s an extra 40 yards of non-adjusted range. More impressive is the wind drift difference. With a 10 mph crosswind, at 100 yards the WSM will drift 1.6 inches vs the HMR at 3.1 inches over. That could be the difference between a hit and a miss.

Quick numbers: (MPBR is for gophers: vertical target size of 3″)

• 17 WSM 20 grain: 3000 FPS: .185BC: MPBR: 205 yards Energy: 400 ft-lbs
• 17 WSM 25 grain: 2600 FPS: .23BC: MPBR: 186 yards Energy: 375 ft-lbs
• 17 HMR 17 grain: 2550 FPS: .128BC: MPBR: 165 yards Energy: 245 ft-lbs

Performance Comparison: Energy

This is the big difference here. The 17 WSM makes for a decent coyote gun, carrying more energy much further, and the 25 grain bullet gives an option for more weight/penetration of larger varmints. I think the 204 Ruger and 223 Rem are better pure coyote rounds, but the 17 WSM offers a very inexpensive option for coyote control.

Downsides of 17 WSM

I’m going to bullet these out (ha!):

• Availability. It doesn’t have mass support, and you won’t find boxes of it at your local hardware store. In fact, depending where you live, you might not be able to find any at all.
• Ammo selection: Only Winchester makes the ammo so far. If your rifle doesn’t like either the 20 or 25 grain Winchester rounds, tough luck. Accuracy gremlins may be tied to the quality of ammo as well. “Accuracy at 100 yards with the 25-grain bullets was a bit over an inch; the results of the groups with the 20-grain load were too awful to print in a family magazine.” – John B. Snow article on the Winchester 1885 in Outdoor life. ***Oct 21, 2014 edit: Hornady has announced they are coming out with a 20 grain V-Max load for the 17 WSM.***
• The ammo boxes are big and bulky compared with 17 HMR boxes.
• Very few rifles are available in 17 WSM.
  • The Savage B.Mag
  • Volquartsen has a semi-auto 17 WSM
  • Franklin Armoury’s semi-auto F17-L
  • Winchester 1885 Low Wall Hunter
• Slightly louder
• May die out as soon as other rimfire ammo becomes readily available again. 17 WSM has yet to be firmly established and if none of the other ammo manufacturers end up making it, you might end up with a rifle or ammo that is discontinued or only supported by Winchester.

So, is 17 WSM Worth it?

At this point, 17 WSM is where a lot of new rounds and rifles find themselves: encountering teething problems and in that “will it become a thing or not” area. If you love staying at the leading edge of technology, this is it but be prepared to pay for being at the bleeding edge. Just because your new rifle and cartridge is better on paper than your buddy’s, doesn’t mean that you’ll outperform them in the field and you might end up dealing with growing pains.

Still not sure about these magnum rimfire rounds? Check out my article on the 17HMR vs 22LR.

Want to do your own MPBR calculations? Check out this calculator.

Did you know that bears have some of the strongest bites in the animal kingdom? While they don’t exactly rank at the top in terms of overall strength, their jaws can pack a serious punch.

So, which subspecies top the bear bite force scale? Who’s managed to sink their teeth into the title of the most powerful jaw? Let’s take a closer look at the six main contenders to find out.

Strongest Bear Bite Force

Before we get into details, you need to understand the basic measurement used to determine an animal’s bite force. It’s usually expressed in PSI, or pounds per square inch. This refers to the amount of pressure that the animal can exert with their teeth.

To give you some perspective, the human jaw can generate about 200 PSI of pressure. But when it comes to bears, the numbers are a whole lot more impressive.

Next, we’ll list six subspecies with a strongest bite force.

Polar Bear Bite Force

The polar bear’s claim to fame is its massive size. And when you’re that big, it’s no surprise that you’ve got an equally a powerful bite. These apex predators can weigh up to 1600 pounds and measure over ten feet in length—perfectly matching a bite force of 1200 PSI.

They store fat in their bodies to help them withstand the cold weather and survive for extended periods without food. And this extra weight gives them added strength, allowing them to take down prey that is much larger than they are. When they’re not chomping down on seal meat, polar bears also enjoy munching on berries, roots, and seaweed.

Despite their imposing strength, polar bears are actually quite gentle creatures. They’re known to playfully wrestle with each other and even interact with humans on occasion. But don’t be fooled by their friendly demeanor—if you get on their bad side, they won’t hesitate to show you just how dominant they really are.

Grizzly Bear Bite Force

The grizzly bear is the next contender on the list. These massive animals are found across North America and can weigh up to 1500 pounds. And while they’re not quite as large as polar bears, they more than make up for it with their ferocious appetite. The bite force of a grizzly bear rounds out to 1160 PSI, making it one of the strongest in the animal kingdom.

These bears have a diet that consists mostly of meat, but they’re also known to eat nuts and roots. Their jaw is designed for crushing bones and flesh, which comes in handy when they’re taking down their prey. And while they might look slow and sluggish, they can actually run at the speed of up to 35 miles per hour—making them one of the fastest land animals on the continent.

Unlike polar bears, grizzlies are not known for their friendly demeanor. In fact, they’re one of the most feared animals in North America. And with good reason—when they’re angry or provoked, they can be absolutely ferocious and take no prisoners. In fact, they’re the most aggressive bear species out there and they’re responsible for the majority of bear-related human fatalities.

Brown Bear Bite Force

This is the type of bear you’re probably most familiar with—they’re often featured in children’s stories and movies. But while they might look cute and cuddly, brown bears are actually quite dangerous. They weigh between 600 and 1500 pounds and have a bite force of 975 PSI.

Brown bears are found throughout North America, Europe, and Asia. Their widespread habitat is due to their ability to adapt to a variety of climates and ecosystems. Their fur helps keep them warm in cold weather and their long claws are perfect for digging up food. Their diet mainly consists of vegetation, but they will also eat fish, small mammals, and carrion.

While brown bears are typically introverted and elusive creatures, they are fiercely protective of their cubs. If they feel like their young are in danger, they will attack—even if that means taking on a human. After all, a mother’s love knows no bounds. And that’s something we can all admire, even if we don’t want to get too close to these giant animals.

American Black Bear Bite Force

The American black bear is the smallest of the three main types of bears found in North America. But don’t let their size fool you—they can still pack a powerful bite. These bears typically weigh between 250 and 600 pounds and have a bite force of 970 PSI.

While they’re not quite as large as grizzlies or polar bears, they more than make up for it with their agility. They can climb trees, swim swiftly, and run up to 30 miles per hour. They’re mostly herbivores, but they will also eat meat on occasion. And their diet consists of a variety of items, including fruits, nuts, roots, and insects.

American black bears are generally shy and timid creatures, which means they rarely interact with humans. But if they’re startled or feel threatened, they can be aggressive and even dangerous. Unless you’re a trained professional, it’s best to stay away from these bears and admire them from a distance.

Asiatic Black Bear Bite Force

The Asiatic black bear is found throughout Asia and is the smallest of the three main types of bears. Their bodies are smaller and more compact than their American and grizzly cousins, with slightly longer claws. And while they might be small, they still have a powerful bite—their jaws boast a force of 650 PSI.

For the most part, Asiatic black bears are herbivores. They’ll munch on fruits, nuts, and leaves, with their sturdy jaws crushing through even the toughest of vegetation. They will also eat meat if they’re starving, but it’s not their preferred food. These bears are also excellent swimmers and climbers, which helps them escape predators and find food in hard-to-reach places.

In general, Asiatic black bears withdraw from human contact and avoid confrontation. Interactions with other animals are also rare, as these bears tend to be solitary creatures. They are, however, close to their own families—mothers will stay with their cubs for up to three years to ensure they’re safe and well-fed.

Giant Panda Bite Force

Next up is the bite force of a bear that’s more likely to make you smile than scream—the giant panda. These adorable creatures are found in the mountains of central China, in mostly forested and bamboo-covered terrain. And while their diet consists mainly of bamboo, they’re still capable of delivering a powerful bite. Their jaws boast a force of 212 PSI.

Their fur is thick and woolly, which helps protect them from the cold. Their bodies are stout and compact, with short legs that make them look quite clumsy. But don’t let their appearance fool you—giant pandas are excellent climbers and can even swim fairly well.

These bears are generally gentle giants. They don’t feel the need to be aggressive and are content to live a peaceful life in the bamboo forests of China. However, they are still wild animals and should be treated with caution. After all, a giant panda’s bite may not be as strong as some of the other bears on this list, but it’s still powerful enough to cause some serious damage.

Key Takeaways

All in all, the specifics regarding the bear bite force depend on the type of bear in question. One thing is for sure though—you definitely wouldn’t want to get on the wrong side of any of these animals, whether they’re the cuddly giant panda or the dangerous grizzly bear.

Walleye fishing is a popular and enjoyable activity for anglers across the world. One of the most effective techniques for catching walleye is using jigs.

Walleye jigs are specially designed lures that mimic the natural movements of prey fish, which walleye typically feed on. They are available in various shapes, sizes, and colors, and each has its unique features that make it effective in certain fishing conditions.

Whether you are a seasoned angler or a beginner, understanding the different types of jigs, how to choose the right one, and how to use them can significantly increase your chances of a successful catch.

In this article, we will cover everything you need to know about walleye jigs, including the different types, factors to consider when choosing them, tips for using them, and the best ones to use in different water conditions.

Types of Walleye Jigs

Walleye jigs come in various shapes, sizes, and styles, and each has its unique characteristics that make it effective in certain fishing conditions. Here are some of the most popular types of walleye jigs:

Roundhead Walleye Jigs

Roundhead jigs are the most common type of walleye jig. They have a round head and a single hook and are available in various sizes and weights. They are versatile and can be used in a wide range of fishing conditions.

Standup Walleye Jigs

Standup jigs have a flat-bottomed head and a vertical line tie that causes them to stand upright on the bottom. They are effective in rocky areas and can also be used in weeds.

Weedless Walleye Jigs

Weedless jigs are designed to be fished in weedy areas without getting caught up in the vegetation. They have a hook that is recessed in the jig’s body, making it difficult for weeds to snag it.

Swimbait Walleye Jigs

Swimbait jigs are similar to roundhead jigs but have a longer shank and a wider gap hook. They are used with soft plastic swimbaits and are effective when fishing in deeper water.

Bucktail Walleye Jigs

Bucktail jigs are made with a hair or feather skirt and are effective in clear water. They mimic the movements of baitfish and are best used with a slow retrieve.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Walleye Jig

Choosing the right walleye jig is essential for a successful fishing trip. Here are some factors to consider when selecting a walleye jig:

1. Water Depth The depth of the water you’re fishing in is an important consideration when choosing a jig. Roundhead jigs are effective in shallow water, while standup jigs work best in deeper water. Swimbait jigs and blade baits are ideal for fishing in depths of 20 feet or more.
2. Water Clarity The clarity of the water also plays a crucial role in jig selection. In clear water, use jigs with natural colors and avoid using ones with bright colors that might spook the fish. In murky water, use jigs with bright colors that stand out and attract the fish.
3. Time of Day and Season The time of day and season can also affect the effectiveness of the jig. During early mornings and late afternoons, use jigs with brighter colors to increase visibility. In the winter, when the water is colder, use smaller jigs with slower retrieves.
4. Structure of the Lake The structure of the lake, such as rocks, weeds, and drop-offs, can influence jig selection. Use weedless jigs when fishing in weedy areas to avoid getting snagged, and use standup jigs when fishing in rocky areas to prevent snagging.

Consider these factors when selecting a walleye jig, and you’ll be well on your way to hooking into some big ones.

Tips for Using Walleye Jigs

Using walleye jigs can be a highly effective way to catch fish, but it’s important to use them correctly. Here are some tips for using walleye jigs:

1. Cast and Retrieve Technique One of the most common ways to use a jig is with the cast and retrieve technique. Cast the jig out and let it sink to the bottom, then retrieve it with short, quick jerks to make the jig bounce off the bottom. Vary the speed and depth of your retrieve until you find what works best.
2. Jigging Technique Jigging is a popular technique for catching walleye with jigs. Let the jig sink to the bottom and then use a sharp upward motion of the rod tip to lift the jig off the bottom, then let it sink back down. Repeat this motion, varying the speed and intensity of the jigging until you get a bite.
3. Drift Technique Drifting is an excellent technique for covering a large area of water quickly. Simply drift with the wind or current, casting the jig out periodically and allowing it to sink to the bottom.
4. Vertical Jigging Technique Vertical jigging is an effective technique for fishing in deep water. Position your boat over the desired spot and drop the jig straight down, letting it fall to the bottom. Then, use an upward motion of the rod tip to lift the jig off the bottom and repeat the motion until you get a bite.

By using these techniques, you’ll be able to catch walleye with jigs more effectively. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different techniques until you find what works best for you.

Best Walleye Jigs to Use

Selecting the right jig can make all the difference in your walleye fishing success. Here are some recommendations for the best walleye jigs to use:

1. Northland Fishing Tackle Fire-Ball Jig: The Fire-Ball Jig is a versatile and effective jig that is designed to imitate the movements of baitfish. It has a short-shank hook that allows you to thread on a live minnow or soft plastic bait. It’s available in various colors and sizes and is ideal for fishing in shallow to mid-depth water.
2. Rapala Jigging Rap: The Jigging Rap is a popular jigging lure that features a balanced design and a center treble hook. It mimics the movement of a dying baitfish and is effective in both shallow and deep water. It’s available in various sizes and colors.
3. VMC Neon Moon Eye Jig: The Neon Moon Eye Jig is a versatile jig that features a unique 3D holographic eye and a super sharp hook. It’s available in various sizes and colors and is ideal for fishing in clear water.
4. B-Fish-N Tackle H2O Precision Jigs: The H2O Precision Jig is a high-quality jig that features a custom-designed head and a super sharp hook. It’s ideal for fishing in weeds and can be used with live bait or soft plastics. It’s available in various sizes and colors.
5. Keitech Tungsten Super Round Jig Head: The Super Round Jig Head is a weedless jig that features a tungsten head and a screw-lock bait keeper. It’s available in various sizes and is ideal for fishing in weedy areas.

These are just a few of the best walleye jigs to use. When selecting a jig, consider the water conditions and factors outlined in section III, and choose a jig that best fits your needs. Remember to experiment with different jigs and techniques until you find what works best for you.

Conclusion

Fishing for walleye with jigs can be a thriling and rewarding experience, but it takes knowledge and skill to be successful. By understanding the different types of walleye jigs, the factors to consider when choosing them, and the tips for using them effectively, you’ll significantly increase your chances of catching more fish.

Remember to select a jig that best fits your needs based on the water conditions and factors outlined in this article. Finally, don’t be afraid to experiment with different jigs and techniques until you find what works best for you. With the right knowledge, skills, and equipment, you’ll be well on your way to reeling in the big ones and enjoying epic fishing adventures.

For 25 years Green Bay Trophy Fishing has guided and provided helpful information to anglers in and around Door County. We are some of the most experienced fishing guides in Green Bay and pride ourselves on being experts on everything related to fishing in the area.

If you are interested in booking a walleye fishing charter, you can view our rates or contact us here.