Ask any turkey hunter, whether he’s a novice or a seasoned veteran, what his meaning of the perfect spring gobbler hunt is, and nine times out of 10 his tainted version will paint a picture sort of like this….

“Well, year before last I had seen this big ol’ bird in the field bottom fuzzed up with a bunch of hens. I mean you could near about see him him any time you wanted to venture across that pine ridge to where you could see the whole field. I figured that he has to be roosting somewhere around the creek as it fed into the beaverpond.

“So one night I told my wife that I had a good mind to go see if I could kill that gobbler the next morning. I didn’t do a real good job of figuring what time it was going to get light enough to see cause I got to the top of that pine ridge and the sky hadn’t even begun to break yet. So I was sitting there catching my breath when, dad burn, if that bird didn’t gobble just down the hill at the end of the field.

“I eased down the hill toward him about 50 more yards and set up by a big ol’ rotten pine treetop that had fallen during a bad ice storm that winter. I mean that bird was gobblin’ up a storm by now. And it was just starting to get light. I hadn’t heard a hen yet, but I gave him something to gobble about when I hit that box call with three or four little yelps. I think he forgot to take a breath cause he gobbled twice in a row. Directly he flew down and landed about 30 yards from me and went into a full strut. When he lifted his head, I let him have it with both barrels.”

Sound familiar? You bet it does! Unfortunately, these textbook encounters seem to happen only to the friends of mine who take a lackadaisical attitude into the woods with them in the spring. All my buddies who really get after the longbeards and study turkey hunting as if it were a college algebra class usually recant their first dual of the day as only a very rewarding, learning experience where the only student was the hunter and the teacher happened to be a wily gobbler that left class early with a bunch of his girlfriends.

All of us turkey hunters have experienced the time when all of our heart and soul was involved in the hunt as we set up on a roosted bird at daylight, only to be totally discouraged in our calling and hunting abilities as Casanova merrily made his way through the forest with his harem, paying no attention to the deliberate approach, crafty setup and finely honed calling sequences. The rest of the morning just seemed to follow a time-tested ritual: a half-hearted march back toward the truck stopping only occasionally to vent our frustrations by making a weak stab at finding another turkey. “It’s getting too hot anyway, I think I’ll grab a biscuit and go fishing.”

It is at this very time of the day that the most successful turkey hunters, the ones that regularly fill their tags every year, have only begun to get excited about the day’s hunt.

Why? The more we learn about the behavior patterns of the wild turkey during the spring, through harvest data, radio telemetry studies of gobblers and just plain old hunting experience, the more we find that the absolute best time to kill a gobbler is between the hours of 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.

Let’s take a look at what goes on in the turkey woods during this time of day and what makes it so productive. I visited with some experienced Georgia turkey hunters who have become quite good at calling in longbeards on a regular basis.

Being in the woods a lot during the entire year is not a problem for Mike Hunt, of West Point. Mike is a timber cruiser for Jones Woodyard in LaGrange and is constantly on the go around a several-county area as he cruises, marks and bids on tracks of timber. “Big Mike” became well-known in central Georgia for his deer hunting and fishing abilities, but during the last five years, he has enjoyed his share of success chasing gobblers. What is Mike’s favorite time of day to kill a bird? Just ask him.

“I have had by far most of my luck during my lunch break. I am at an advantage over most folks because come lunchtime I am usually real close to a piece of property that I have permission to turkey hunt on. I have to be at the woodyard most mornings at 8 a.m., so my early morning hunting before work is very short. I don’t usually have a problem knowing where to go to hear a bird on the roost at daylight but almost always he has hens with him early on, especially during April. So what I like to do is set up on him as normal, and even if he doesn’t come my way, I’ll get a fix on which way he’s headed. If I am around that area two to five hours later, I’ll slip in quietly and hit him with some excited cutts from my box call.

Mike’s strategies have been formulated through a lot of trial and error, like giving up on a bird and not trying him until the following day. His new-found tactics for success are simple. Give the bird time to court his hens and eventually they’ll leave him for their nests. The lovesick tom is content a lot of times to strut in his home range waiting for the hens to return later in the day.

“When I first started turkey hunting and knew very little about turkeys and their habits, especially gobblers, I only hunted at daybreak. Eventually I killed a few birds but most mornings I just couldn’t compete with all the hens. Now, I would say that if I had to choose one particular time of day that I was allowed to go into the woods after a longbeard, there’s no doubt it would be during the middle of the day.”

Laughing, Mike added, “I’m not a world-championship caller by any means, but I’ll tell you, a lonely gobbler can make a good caller out of me.”

Mike has also seen the sport of turkey hunting grow at a very fast pace. Naturally, he sees the disadvantage of having to compete with other hunters now more than ever for a good turkey, but with his midday tactics, Mike has found a way to take advantage of the early morning pressure.

“I honestly feel that with your turkey populations getting hunted harder and harder every year, and the vast majority of the hunting pressure taking place during the first three hours of daylight, their instincts are beginning to tell them that responding to the call of a hen first thing in the morning can be risky business. But on the flip side, some aggressive calling on up in the day when most hunters have gone home can bring in a gobbler when nothing else will. The biggest turkey I have ever called in for someone was for a fellow from Florida. I had fooled with this particular bird for a few days early in the morning, then I took this gentleman one day and he killed him at about 11:15 a.m. The old gobbler came strutting in very cautiously. His spur lengths were 1 1/2 inches and 1 3/8 inches.

Don Jones, of Marietta, spends most of his time in the turkey woods in McDuffie, Hancock, Taliaferro and Wilkes counties. These areas of the state have long been known to provide many hunters a rush on any given spring morning, but they also get plenty of hunting pressure, especially the past couple of seasons. Don, like Mike, knows the rewards of waiting out a gobbler until the middle of the day.

Being an excellent bowhunter with a Pope & Young deer to his credit, Don is an avid outdoorsman who just enjoys being in the woods. Staying in the woods from daylight until well into the afternoon is not uncommon for Don during the turkey season, and consequently, much of his success comes during what he calls his “flash hunts.”

“A flash hunt is when I’m calling aggressively one moment and the next moment I’ve got a gobbler on the ground,” said Don.

He describes his midday tactic as “prospecting.” Unlike a lot of experienced turkey hunters who rely on several different types of calls during a day’s hunt, Don travels very lightly in anticipation of covering a lot of ground on a routine hunt, and he depends almost exclusively on mouth diaphragms.

“Like any other turkey hunter, I’m waiting for the redbirds to wake up while waiting for that first gobble. If I’m not able to set up on a gobbling turkey early on, I start covering as much ground as possible. I stay mainly on top of the ridge and call down into the bottoms with a lot of excited cutting calls. I won’t usually get real serious about locating a receptive tom until after the sun has had a chance to get on up in the sky,” said Don.

“The reason I don’t call real heavy early on is I feel the chances of calling a longbeard away from his harem of hens is small, and I feel like I’m just educating the birds to my style of calling.”

This point is to be taken seriously. Since turkeys are birds with very strong social ties, meaning they don’t like to hang out alone except when hens nest, it is not a gobbler’s first choice to leave the company of other turkeys early in the morning.

The established dominance order a group of gobblers plays a key role in why midday hunting can be very successful. With turkeys roosting every night in groups, whether they’re large or small groups, there is a series of events that usually take place just after daybreak during the breeding season. They turkeys fly down and the dominant toms commence to strutting and courting the hens. During this time, the subordinate gobblers (usually 2-year-old birds) will hang around the action just to watch what is going on. Sometimes they can even get away with strutting, as long as it is outside the comfort zone of the boss tom. Any effort to get too close to the hens is met with some resistance. This continues for the first hour or two after fly-down time. Eventually, these subordinate, or satellite, gobblers will have worked themselves up in a frenzy and stray off looking for some action. It is these birds that can provide, in Don’s words, a flash hunt. Also, after a little longer length of time, the dominant gobbler is given the cold-shoulder treatment by his hens as they leave him to go to their nests, making him just vulnerable enough on up in the middle of the day to come in to some excited cutting calls of a hen.

Don ends up with this piece of advice, “I try to cover as much ground as possible, cutting loudly and often to get a response. The instant that I feel like the gobbler has begun to make his way toward my calling, I will cut back considerably on the volume and frequency of my calling. This is also a good time to begin scratching in the leaves to sound like a hen is feeding. I have killed some birds by only scratching after he answered my call and was headed my way.”

With turkey season nearly two weeks old, there is a good chance that gobblers in your neck of the woods have heard their share of calling early in the morning. By giving midday hunting a try, you can increase your odds by calling to birds when they don’t normally hear a lot of excited hen talk, catching a tom whose harem of hens has given him the slip, or maybe coaxing a satellite gobbler to within gun range.

Whether you’re an experienced shooter seeking to unlock your AR-15’s full potential or a novice just looking to upgrade their firearm, customizing your AR-15 can be exciting and rewarding. With the right tools, guidance, and knowledge, there is no limit to what kind of unique modifications you can make that will transform your rifle into one that is truly yours. This blog post will discuss what you need to know about customizing your AR-15 so that you can create a weapon explicitly tailored for use in any situation.

Choose the right accessories

As any gun enthusiast will tell you, an AR-15 is a customizable firearm. There are many ways to tweak, tune, and fine-tune this modern classic to suit your tastes, when it comes to achieving that perfect, personalized look, it’s all about the accessories. Whether you want to add a sleek, low-profile carrying handle to your rifle or beef up your grip with a rugged, ergonomic forend, the right accessories can take your AR-15 to the next level. In terms of the former, choosing between detachable carry handles or fixed ones means weighing the pros and cons of each – while detachable handles offer more flexibility, they can also add extra weight to your rifle. Fixed carry handles are often considered the superior choice for a slim-line look. Choose the right one, and you’ve got comfort and style covered while keeping your firearm secure when you’re moving.

Upgrade the trigger

As the popularity of AR-15s continues to grow, more and more gun enthusiasts are looking for ways to customize their rifles. An easy and effective upgrade you can make is to the trigger. A better trigger can significantly improve the accuracy and ergonomics of your AR-15. You can shoot more accurately and consistently by replacing the factory trigger with a lighter pull weight and a crisper break. Whether you’re a competitive shooter or just looking to improve your hunting game, upgrading your AR-15’s trigger is a simple and cost-effective way to get the most out of your rifle.

Upgrade the charging handle too

One upgrade to consider is the charging handle. Not only does this part give your rifle a distinct look, but it also has a practical purpose. Upgrading the charging handle can result in a smoother action when chambering rounds, saving you valuable time and effort. With a range of options available, from larger handles for easier grip to ambidextrous models for left-handed shooters, finding the perfect fit for your needs is easy. 

Add an extended magazine release for easier reloading

Whether you have experience in shooting or just starting, changing your firearm can make it feel like it was tailor-made just for you. One easy and affordable customization option is to add an extended magazine release. This simple addition can make reloading your AR-15 a breeze, allowing you to quickly and easily swap out magazines in the heat of the moment. The extended release also offers a more comfortable grip, reducing the strain on your fingers and making it easier to operate your firearm in high-pressure situations. So if you’re looking for a simple way to customize your AR-15, consider adding an extended magazine release – it may just make all the difference when it counts.

Add a muzzle brake as well

Adding a muzzle brake or flash suppressor helps reduce recoil, making it easier to stay on target and minimizing the visual disruption caused by muzzle flash. Some muzzle devices also provide the added benefit of redirecting gasses to reduce felt recoil even more. With so many options on the market, it’s worth considering adding one of these attachments to your AR-15 to enhance your shooting experience.

Change out the handguard for improved grip and customization options

The AR-15 is a versatile firearm that can be customized in numerous ways to fit the needs and preferences of its owner. One popular way to customize this rifle is by changing out the handguard. This component provides improved grip and comfort and opens up a world of customization options. Different materials, colors, and textures can be chosen to create a unique look for the firearm. Additionally, handguards can come in various lengths, allowing accessories such as bipods, lights, and lasers to be added. With so many options available, changing out the handguard is a great way to tailor an AR-15 to fit both form and function.

Customizing an AR-15 can be enjoyable to make the firearm fit the shooter’s desired needs and preferences. It is a fun and rewarding experience, so explore your options to create your own tailored rifle. You may even discover some new accessories or upgrades along the way. And in the end, you’ll be left with a custom AR-15 that looks and functions exactly how you want it to.

Camping is a relatively safe experience. I have been a camper for most of my life and have never had an issue where I felt that a deadly weapon was necessary. However, that doesn’t mean that it will always be that way. Having some way to protect yourself when things go wrong is just good common sense.

When many people think of carrying a weapon for protection, a gun may be the first thing that comes to mind. While this is certainly an option if it’s legal and you obey the laws, there are many other options that are less deadly but extremely effective.

Different rules apply depending on where you are on whether or not you can carry a gun. I choose not to go this route but I do have a keen sense of my surroundings and am generally prepared for bad things that might happen.

If you camp regularly and are looking to beef up your defenses, there are some common items that will work very well as weapons. Many of these are already at your disposal and you will simply need to be more aware of them.

When considering a weapon, you need to first establish what you are trying to protect yourself from. It could be wild animals or it could be the most dangerous of all; other humans with bad intentions. It’s good to be prepared for both in case something goes down that threatens your well-being.

If you are going to use a weapon, it should be a last line of defense. Some weapons could get you hurt if you don’t know what you are doing. For example, someone with a greater skill set could take a knife away from you and use it against you instead. Only consider a weapon as a last resort when your back is against the wall and you have to protect yourself from serious harm.

Let’s look at some great weapons to have on hand while camping that can help ensure your safety. These are in no particular order EXCEPT the first one.

NOTE: if you choose to carry any type of weapon when camping, make sure it is legal to do so and you understand any consequences involved in using it.

1. Your Brain / Awareness

The number one way to stay safe while camping is with the weapon you have right between your ears; your brain! Being aware of a situation and using your brain to direct your actions is the first step in ensuring your safety.

Our intuition can help us avoid something that might cause us harm. The trick is to listen to that intuition and avoid getting caught in dangerous situations. Not only that, but it also takes awareness to understand how and where to park your RV or pitch your tent.

Avoiding bad areas or other places where you just don’t feel comfortable will go a long way in protecting you.

Being aware of your surroundings and prepared in the best way that you can should be the first action. Only then does it make sense to even discuss weapons.

2. Pepper Spray / Bear Spray

Pepper spray is a great way to protect yourself against other humans who are up to no good. It’s an easy weapon to carry with you and can easily be kept in your pocket at all times or in a location in your RV that’s easy to get to. With numerous varieties on the market, it’s easy to find an effective pepper spray that will protect you from intruders and other sketchy people that come around.

Pepper spray is designed to incapacitate an attacker long enough so that you can get away. Don’t expect it to take someone down for good.

Bear spray is great to have on hand as well if you camp in areas where bears and other wild animals could cause Harm. While bear spray isn’t designed for protecting yourself against humans, it can be highly effective in the event of a bear attack. It’s good to have both of these on hand on a camping trip and use them accordingly.

With both of these, it’s a good idea to understand how to use them and what the spray bottles are capable of. You don’t want to get caught in a situation where you need to use one and be fiddling around with the spray nozzle. Even worse, spraying towards yourself rather than the intended target.

3. Knife / Axe

Every camper should have a knife on hand. Not only for protection but for the practicality of having one. There are so many things you need a knife for while living off the land. A folding knife can easily be carried in your pocket at all times and it’s great to have on hand for those times when you just need a knife. You may need to open a package, cut a cord, slice up some food, or even protect yourself.

A sturdy pocket knife can be a great way to arm yourself and provide you with a weapon if you ever encounter a situation where when is needed. In an RV, you may have a plethora of knives sitting around for cooking and other needs. These may also be used if someone breaks into your RV or someone is up to no good and you need to ward them off.

Similar to a knife, an axe is also effective as a potential weapon. Axes are sometimes needed on a camping trip in order to cut firewood or chop something down. While you hope to never use such a thing, it’s an option that can do a lot of damage and protect you from unwanted visitors if needed.

4. Fire Extinguisher

If you are an RVer, you likely have a fire extinguisher handy in your RV. While a fire extinguisher is meant to put out fires, it may also serve another purpose if your back is against the wall and you need a weapon to ward off an intruder. If you can locate your fire extinguisher in a timely manner and be able to spray it in the vicinity of the person or other being in question, it can potentially save your life.

The CO2 that is emitted from a fire extinguisher can serve to temporarily incapacitate a person and make it easier for you to get away. Not only that but a fire extinguisher could serve as something that can be used to hit someone over the head.

This would be a last resort measure but since most RVs are, or should be, equipped with a fire extinguisher, it is something to consider as a possible life-saving weapon.

Even tent campers should have a fire extinguisher on hand in case a fire starts burning out of control. Keep it close by and easy to grab and use whether it’s to put out a fire or to run someone away from your campground.

5. Trekking Poles / Walking Stick

Campers are often hikers and hikers often carry trekking poles or some type of walking stick. If you don’t, it’s a good idea to start! A walking stick or trekking poles can serve multiple purposes. The most obvious is giving you a stabilized place to hold onto as you walk across areas that could be potentially slippery or dangerous. A trekking pole gives you a place to hold onto as it firmly pushes into the ground while you hold tightly to it as if it’s a handrail.

A stick like this can also be used in the event of an emergency or if someone is trying to harm you. Not only a person but it can also ward off wild animals that have wandered upon you as you can use it as a weapon to poke, prod, or swing in order to hit the assailant. Having trekking poles like this provides a great additional barrier of protection that can be of help during an encounter with a crazed individual.

Besides being handy for keeping you stable as you are hiking, these trekking poles can become your best friends in times of danger.

6. Rocks

You’ll find plenty of rocks out in nature while you’re camping. After your campsite has been set up, a few select rocks from around the area can be positioned inside your tent, RV, or sleeping area. These rocks may come in handy if you were to hear rustling weeds or a person drawing near that shouldn’t be there.

Having a selection of rocks nearby gives you some weapons to throw or hit onto something. This can provide you with some additional protection and could buy you time so that you can acquire another weapon, run away, or call for help.

Rocks can be thrown, as long as you have a good aim, and will likely make a wild animal run away or stop a human intruder in his or her tracks.

7. Dog

We campers love our dogs and besides being a best friend, a dog can be a great security system! Depending on the dog you have, you may have a partner that can fully protect you or you may have a partner who will only alert you of danger. Either way, having a best friend on hand that has some sharp canines and an instinct to protect, will go a long way in providing you with a weapon that intruders would not want to tangle with.

Even if your dog is not a powerful breed that can take down a large person, he or she will likely still be a fighter that will stand up for you and protect you in times of need. Not only this but a dog can help to draw attention with its barking and possibly alert others who may be around in the campground or nearby.

8. Stun Gun / Taser

A stun gun or taser might be a weapon that you haven’t considered before but can be highly effective if something tries to harm you. If a person comes into your campground causing a ruckus or breaks into your RV and puts your life in danger, a stun gun or taser can be used to stop them in their tracks. The high voltage of these devices is designed to shock and temporarily disable a person as it gives you time to get away or figure out your next move.

A taser is great for taking someone down from a distance, typically 15 to 25 feet away. However, a stun gun can be highly effective if an intruder is upon you and you are fighting for your life. A stun gun temporarily can disable a person if activated while making contact with their body.

The video below shows what happens when a stun gun is used.

There are laws regarding these depending on the locality that you are camping in but in general, are legal to use in most US states and can provide some additional protection when you need it most. Learn more about stun gun laws.

9. Personal Alarm

A personal alarm is something that is more of a deterrent than a weapon. While there won’t be much you can do as far as injuring someone, a loud piercing alarm that you can push when in danger will alert others in the area and potentially cause the intruder to disappear.

Animals may not like the sound either and can be startled enough to run away when the alarm is sounding. These types of personal alarms can be carried in your pocket, on your keychain, in a purse, or backpack. It’s best to have them in a place that is easy to get to without much difficulty.

Having an alarm like this hanging from your backpack strap as you are hiking for example gives you a way to instantly press it in a time of danger. The WETEN Personal Alarm Keychain (affiliate link) is a great option that is easy to use and can be carried on your keychain.

Bottom Line

Overall, camping is a safe experience and there may be no need to worry about carrying a weapon. However, it’s good to know that there are some objects easily accessible that can be highly effective. When your back is against the wall and you are fighting for your life, these items may come in handy as long as you plan in advance.

As the saying goes, expect the best but prepare for the worst. This is just good common sense! It’s better to think about these things now and be prepared when you need them rather than not knowing what to do when the time does come.

If you’re unsure of the difference between First and Second Focal Plane optics, checkout this podcast to learn more.)

FFP can get you a huge edge in competition, on some hunts, and on the field of battle. It can make you faster at longer distances and give you the ability to transition between targets of varying distance with speed and precision. FFP is freaking awesome. But it’s not always better.

Here are a few reasons to think twice before going FFP, and a few reasons why it might be right for you:

Optics. We love optical quality, so we’ll quickly address this first. When looking at the same scope (same family, same mag range, same everything else) available in SFP or FFP, there will be no discernable difference in optical quality between the SFP and FFP model. None.

Cost. Again, all else similar and only looking at SFP vs FFP in the same scope, the SFP version will always be less expensive. If cost is one of your major concerns, an SFP may be the way to go.

The manufacturing process behind getting the FFP reticle—which is almost always going to be glass-etched—in its position on the front of the erector unit, which sits way down inside the scope, and aligning it properly is far more involved than the process of installing an SFP reticle. A tougher scope to make means a more expensive scope in the end.

Tons of people don’t need it. This is the big one. FFP allows a shooter to engage targets and use all the hashmarks and/or grids of their technical reticle at any magnification. This is primarily useful when you find yourself on the clock in the heat of competition, or perhaps in combat. In these settings, you don’t necessarily have the time to dial your turrets (which would allow you to just shoot using the center crosshair on any magnification) or you don’t have time to make sure you are on a calibrated magnification to use those features, like you would in an SFP scope.

Most people we work with head to the range, sit down—not being timed on a clock or shot at—dial their shot into their turrets, and shoot off the center reticle all day. This is the perfect case for an SFP scope. Should someone want to use their reticle for spotting a friend, they can just dial up their image to the scope’s calibrated magnification level and use the hashmarks in the reticle to call shots. (This is usually the highest magnification, where the reticle and image are at the same scale.)

Many hunters don’t need FFP. There are some cases where FFP may help hunters. For example, when in hilly or mountainous country where you may come over a crest or a ridge to find your quarry suddenly right there in front of you, ready for the taking. You probably don’t have the time to dial a shot or change your magnification, so the FFP scope would allow you to make a quick holdover and execute the shot without any trouble.

That said, FFP has one big flaw for low-light hunters that might be hunting in thick timber or brush: The reticle on the lowest magnification in an FFP scope (which is also the magnification that provides best low-light performance) is often so tiny you can hardly see it. Unless the scope is illuminated, the chances of you picking out that tiny little thing and making a good shot in those conditions are low. Many people prefer the SFP scope because, even when they have it on the lowest magnification, the reticle remains its normal size, more visible in the brush or timber, especially in low light.

Where having an FFP is handy. You can do it, but you’ll likely be frustrated if you head to a PRS match with an SFP scope and try to compete at the level of some of the top competitors. Any other similar situation where you may find yourself executing shots at varying distances and in short order, the FFP riflescope is the way to go. Imagine shooting a target at 100 yards, then finding and engaging a 500-yard target, then an 800-yard target, then back to 300. The person with FFP will choose a magnification—almost never the highest mag, and probably somewhere down in the lower half of the mag range—and just sit there with it, taking full advantage of the larger field of view for finding and transitioning between targets, and engage all the targets quickly without having to touch the mag ring.

They may use the turrets, but they’ll likely use their reticle to hold over, or to make quick follow up shots and corrections after spotting their own misses. Meanwhile, the person with SFP is either dialing all over the place, or cranking their mag ring up to use their reticle, then cranking it back down after engaging the target to zoom out and find the next target…

You can often get the same exact scope more affordably if you just want to shoot at the range and dial your turrets to shoot off the center crosshair. Most casual shooters almost never use FFP to its fullest. Hunters in low light, thick timber, or heavy brush that utilize the lowest mag on their riflescope a lot usually don’t like how tiny the FFP reticle appears when the scope is on the lowest mag and prefer SFP.

But, if you shoot competition, trust your life to your optic, or hunt in the right places, FFP can give you a huge edge.

If you want to take a deep dive into riflescopes to help figure out which one is right for you, check out this podcast covering everything you ever wanted to know about riflescopes.

Looking to learn more about long-range optic selection? Check out this 10-minute talk.

It’s our hope you can learn and laugh along with the expert voices we feature on this blog. We want to be clear that the opinions you see featured here are just that: opinions. The content belongs to the authors and is not necessarily the opinion of Vortex Optics.

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It wasn’t the fish heads poking out of the Stargazy Pie that stopped more than a few of our readers cold. It was the eyeballs.

“Not a lot of food nowadays has eyes; what’s up with that?” one reader asked in commenting on a recent Salt post that featured a photo of the historic dish, which involves whole fish (eyes and all) poking out of a pie.

Turns out, quite a lot of cuisine features eyeballs. But there’s no question that in many cultures, eating eyes is a food taboo.

I first ran afoul of this when I cooked up ukha, a famous Russian fish soup, for a group of friends. The fish heads make for a beautiful clear broth, and my husband, who grew up in Kamchatka, wanted to make sure those big old heads swam in his bowl.

Alas, when the bowls were laid out, the one with fish eyes staring balefully upward landed in front of the most fastidious eater in the room. He has never dined at my house again.

So I called James Serpell, director of the Center for the Interaction of Animals and Society at the University of Pennsylvania, and asked why eyes creep people out.

“Eyes represent faces,” he said, “and it’s through the face that we learn to recognize and empathize with others. So it’s not entirely surprising that we find eyeballs disconcerting.”

Serpell learned that firsthand when he sat down to eat with a family in Iceland. They served svio, or boiled sheep’s head. “You get half a sheep’s head on your plate,” he told The Salt. “And you eat everything. Ears, eyes, nose — everything.”

Everything, including the eyeball. “The consistency is quite offensive,” he reports.

But even traditional Icelanders have their food taboos — the sheep head was served without the brain. “When I said, ‘Where’s the brain?’ they looked at me with horror.”

When it comes to Americans, “people in our culture are disgusted by eating any non-muscle part of edible animals, says Paul Rozin, a professor of psychology at the University of Pennsylvania who studies human food choice and disgust. “Eyes may be special because it is so clear that they are an animal part, and they have some special significance for many people.”

Maybe the eyes of other mammals are just a bit too close to home for most people. Fish eyes seem the most acceptable form of ocular cuisine, my fastidious soup-eating friend excluded. As our well-traveled readers pointed out, small fish are eaten whole in many cultures, from British whitebait to the dried fish snacks ubiquitous at Asian groceries. Elvers, tiny eels that resemble spaghetti, are popular not just in Europe but also in Asia.

Indeed, Asian cultures probably win the prize for not just tolerating but embracing fish eyes, both raw, as in sushi, and cooked. “I’ve had the fist-sized eye of a garoupa, steamed and garnished. (Gelatinous.),” one of our intrepid readers commented. “And in Asia fish tend to be cooked with the head on — it’s a sign of good fortune when things have a head and a tail!”

Shanghai-born food blogger Chichi Wang relishes fish eyes: “The trick to eating a fish eyeball is to keep it in your mouth for as long as possible,” she writes. “A rush of fatty fish flavor is accompanied by a gelatinous, spongy texture. Swallow too quickly and you’ll miss the nuances.”

When she was little, Wang’s mom always saved the fish eyes just for her. So when relatives recently gathered at a Cantonese restaurant, Wang offered her mom the fish eyes as a special treat.

“Take that away,” her mom said. “Fish eyeballs are really gross.”

Wang then realized that what had seemed to be the selfless act of motherhood had been instead an act of self-protection.

In the past few years, more adventurous Americans seem to be discovering fish eyes (and we’re not talking the slang for tapioca pudding). Look on chat boards devoted to the protein-rich paleo diet, and you’ll find debates on the nutritional benefits of caribou eyes.

And in Chicago, chef Cary Taylor took on the challenge of making a fish eye dish. After his fishmonger refused to provide pre-gouged eyeballs (“he said there was no way he was going to have his guys in the back cutting out fish eyeballs or they would riot,” Taylor told the Chicago Reader), the chef cooked up grouper-head soup. He then squeezed out the eyeball gel (best use gloves, he says) as a flavoring and thickener.

“It didn’t seem to be a super distinctive taste to me,” Taylor reported, though he did like the soup’s nice, fresh seafood taste. He’s now contemplating offering a free shot of whiskey to customers willing to suck the eyeballs out of a whole roasted fish.

Would you eat those eyeballs? Have you? Or is that a food that’s best left as a taboo? Tell us what you think.

“Exploring the World of Air Rifles: Unveiling the Projectiles These Mighty Firearms Shoot!”

what do air rifles shoot

Air rifles are firearms that use compressed air or gas to propel projectiles. These rifles can shoot a variety of ammunition types, including pellets, BBs, and darts. The type of ammunition used depends on the specific design and purpose of the air rifle.

Pellets are the most common type of ammunition for air rifles. They are small cylindrical or round projectiles made of lead or alloy. Pellets come in different calibers, ranging from.177 to.50 caliber, and they can be either diabolo-shaped (with a larger head and narrow waist) or round-nosed. Pellets offer accuracy and consistency in shooting and are suitable for various applications such as target shooting, pest control, and small game hunting.

BBs are another type of ammunition used in air rifles. They are small spherical projectiles typically made of steel or copper-plated steel. BBs are mainly used for recreational purposes like plinking (shooting at targets for fun) and casual target practice. Compared to pellets, BBs generally have lower accuracy due to their shape but can still be effective within shorter ranges.

In conclusion, air rifles shoot projectiles called pellets or BBs. These small metal or plastic objects are propelled by compressed air, making air rifles a popular choice for recreational shooting and pest control. With various types and sizes available, it’s important to use the appropriate ammunition for safety and effectiveness.

By Jeff Johnston

My first gun was a Stevens 20-ga. single shot. It kicked the hell out of me and of course, was only good for one shot, so if I missed, I was screwed.

I was screwed a lot.

A few years after I proved to my father that my flinch was waning and I wasn’t a homicidal maniac, I received an 1100 semi-auto. It was superior in every way: most notably it was fun to shoot, and I could still kill a duck even after whiffing the first couple shots.

Now, don’t get me wrong: I think this “one shot one kill” sniper movie mantra is fantastic-until you blow your one shot … then it sucks. To me it seems downright stupid. You tell me what’s best: A: one-shot, no-kill, or B: two shots one kill? Better yet, three shots, five kills if you line ’em up right.

And that’s why my go-to rifle is a Browning BAR MK3 DBM. First produced in 1918 by John Browning, the original BAR (Browning Automatic Rifle) was good enough for our grandfathers to kill commies by the trench full, so you better believe it’s hell on deer, hogs, bears, and anything else that needs killin’. For driven hunts where the critters hightail it like fleeing Frenchmen, there’s nothing finer.

But make no mistake, today’s BAR is a longshot from your hero grandpappy’s. The new MK3 DBM is a synthetic stocked, 10-round detachable box magazine hunting/pseudo-battle rifle that Pelosi and co. would love to ban if they had any clue how badass it actually is. This modern Japanese-made (Miroku) boomstick handles like a A5 shotgun with its snappy 18-inch fluted pipe and grippy furniture.

I’ll admit the 10-round magazine is perhaps overkill for most hunting situations, but I do like it for one specific scenario: for shooting as many wild pigs as possible in one ambush. Quite often I’ll unleash one-shot that drops the biggest boar, then I’ll pull to the next hog that’s now hauling so fast that it’s rather like shooting a clay pigeon from station no 6. If I can kill two hogs in 3 or 4 quick shots with the BAR I’m doing good. With a bolt gun, I’d have no chance.

For deer hunting, I like the idea of having a quick backup shot, need it or not. Personally, I feel this gun handles and hunts better than any AR-10 I’ve ever used.

The thing is, the BAR’s short stroke gas piston system, legit (meaning well-fitting and practical) buttstock, and 7.6-pound heft make it the lightest-recoiling rifle out there, so much that when chambered in a sweet shooter like .308 Win. I can often see impact through the scope. If you can email me the name of a handier, easier shooting and more deadly all-around rifle, I’ll pick up your next bar tab and say thanks.

Historically bolt-action snobs have offered up three reasons against semi-auto rifles. The first is a nostalgic love affair with a man named Jack O’Connor and his love affair with his Winchester Model 70. Yes, it’s a love triangle and it’s weird, but it offers no explanation why a BAR wouldn’t have also killed sheep just as dead.

Then there are those who say semiautos are inherently unreliable. To that, I say remember the M1 Garand? What about a Benelli M2? A Glock? Yea those POSs hardly ever work. If kept clean, slick, and stoked with full power-loads-none of this reduced-recoil crap-a BAR is as reliable as you’ll ever need for hunting. But even if you lived in the Panamanian jungle for three months straight, shot every day, and had no access to WD-40, I’d still bet that if you pulled the trigger the gun will fire that first chambered round, and I’d be right 100 out of 100 times. And it’ll fire the 2nd and 3rd rounds about 99 percent of the time.

“But you can’t hit a U-Haul truck at 50 yards with one,” say others. Oh yea? When’s the last time you shot a new BAR? Most of them are 1.25- to 1.5-inch rifles out of the box with any ammo, and with a little experimentation to find what it prefers, plenty are sub-inchers.

But I’m not here to sell guns for Browning. I just happen to love this rifle. If I have one complaint (more of a wish, really) it would be this: because of the gas system, most do not respond well if fitted with a suppressor, and I love suppressors for hunting. But that’s about it. I love how the gun handles, that it’s completely impervious to the elements with its synthetic/matte black finish and that its receiver is pre-fitted with Picatinny rails so scope mounting is a snap. Oh yea, that and it holds 10 rounds of critter-killin .308.

For those rare times when I’m feeling like Tom Beringer in the movie Sniper and go for one shot, one kill, I just load one round. But for all other times (i.e. always) I stack the mag to the gills and feel much better about my chances in the real world.

Around $1500 ; browning.com

What is the best long range muzzleloader for you in 2024?

Muzzleloaders have come a long way from the more primitive flintlock and percussion cap traditional muzzleloaders carried by most hunters in the 18th and 19th centuries. Indeed, the most advanced long range muzzleloaders available today offer capability that rivals the performance delivered by traditional centerfire rifles.

However, the situation can be pretty confusing at times. The big manufacturers are constantly introducing new muzzleloading rifle models each year, but they’re not always legal to use where you plan on hunting. Additionally, it’s also sometimes really tough get past the hype and media promotion that surrounds all new products in the outdoor industry.

From one hunter to another, trust me when I say that I’ve experienced a lot of that same frustration myself.

While there are some outstanding long range muzzleloader choices these days, they’re not all the same and some are much better choices for certain hunters than others. At the same time, some are legal to use in certain states, but not others.

Things are constantly changing on that front. Additionally, as you’ll learn here soon, the big manufactures have specifically designed some of their long range muzzleloaders to be legal for use during the muzzleloader seasons in many states.

So with all that in mind, I’m sharing my picks of the best long range muzzleloaders for hunters in 2024 so you can make an informed decision and choose the best long range muzzleloader for you.

Remember: rules and regulations regarding hunting with a muzzleloader can vary quite a bit from state to state. Certain muzzleloaders may be legal to hunt with in one state, but illegal to use during muzzleloader season during a neighboring state. It’s up to you to check local regulations in order to verify that you’re using legal equipment.

Before we get started, here’s a disclaimer: some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission if you make a purchase.

This commission comes at no extra cost to you. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

Now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s get started.

CVA Accura LR-X

Basically, CVA designed the Accura LR-X muzzleloader to incorporate many of the great features of the CVA Paramount, but still use a standard 209 ignition with a regular magnum (instead of super magnum) powder charge.

So, the CVA Accura LR-X uses the new CVA X-Treme stock with an adjustable comb height to fit any shooter and optic selection. This is a great feature to help hunters obtain a proper cheek weld regardless of whether they’re using open sights or a scope. This is especially important for a long shot.

Like the Paramount line of long range muzzleloaders, the 30″ long barrel for the Accura LR-X is free-floated and has a threaded muzzle to accept the new Paramount Muzzle Brake. As you can imagine, these rifles have excellent accuracy potential and are great options for hunters who want great extended range performance without stepping up to the heavier and much more expensive CVA Paramount.

Additionally, the Accura LR-X is available in either .45 or .50 caliber. The .45 caliber version uses a fast 1:22″ rifling twist and the .50 caliber version uses a 1:28″ rifling twist. However, the really cool thing about these muzzleloaders is they can use the .45 or .50 caliber PowerBelt ELR bullets.

Especially with the .50 caliber LR-X, it’s important to use a full magnum charge (120gr of Blackhorn 209 or 3x 50gr 777 pellets) to get best accuracy with the PowerBelt ELR. That 1:28″ rifling twist will properly stabilize the longer PowerBelt ELR bullets and they’ll still reliably expand on impact, but only at higher velocities.

The upside is that these muzzleloaders will also shoot standard .45 or .50 caliber bullets (both full bore and saboted bullets) very well too.

In fact, CVA even offers a full money back guarantee for their Accura rifles if they aren’t the most accurate muzzleloaders you’ve ever shot.

Additionally, the CVA Accura LR-X comes with a Bergara barrel featuring a Nitride AND CeraKote finish on the exterior for even better corrosion resistance than a typical stainless steel barrel. Though it’s not totally corrosion proof, this Nitride and CeraKote finish is still extremely durable and resistant to corrosion, which is especially nice for hunters who live in wet climates.

The CVA Accura LR-X also has a lot of the same features of the standard CVA Wolf, Optima, Accura muzzleloaders like their Quick-Release Breech Plug, fully ambidextrous stock, and simple break open action.

Like I said, the CVA Accura LR-X is a less expensive and lighter alternative to the CVA Paramount that still has higher end features like a free floated barrel, adjustable stock, and the ability to use the more aerodynamic PowerBelt ELR bullets.

It uses a standard magnum powder charge, so muzzle velocities won’t be quite as high as with the Paramount, but the Accura won’t have quite as much recoil either. The Accura LR-X also uses 209 primers (instead of variflame ignition), but you can buy a conversion kit if you’d like.

All things considered, this is one of the best long range muzzleloaders CVA currently produces for those who want a little bit more reach without spending a lot of money, quite as much recoil, or as much weight. It’s also still a very flexible muzzleloader that will work really well with standard bullets at closer range if so desired.

For those reasons, this is a very flexible muzzleloader that will work great for deer hunting east of the Mississippi as well as game like mule deer, elk, and pronghorn out west where ranges can be a little longer.

• Overall Length: 45″
• Barrel Length: 30″
• Weight: 8.1lbs
• Sighting System: Iron Sights & Drilled/Tapped For Scope Mount or With Mounted Scope
• Caliber: .45 or .50 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: 209 Primers

BUY A CVA ACCURA LR-X HERE

Remington 700 Ultimate Muzzleloader

Since first hitting the market nearly a decade ago, the Remington 700 Ultimate Muzzleloader (UML) was the only real option for hunters wanting a good factory production long range muzzleloader (the Gunwerks muzzleloader and many of the various smokeless muzzleloaders are a custom job that’s significantly more expensive). Indeed, it was the best long-range muzzleloader in mass production for many years by the simple fact that it was the only real option for hunters who didn’t want a custom muzzleloader.

Remington has gone through a lot of turmoil in recent years, but they’re back in business now and producing the Remington 700 UML again (along with many of their other popular firearms).

Don’t let the fact that the Remington 700 UML is an older design (compared to the other muzzleloaders on this list) keep you from purchasing one either. It is still one of the best long range muzzleloaders money can buy.

What makes the Remington UML special?

Instead of a musket cap or a standard 209 primer, the Remington UML uses a special brass magnum rifle casing and a standard magnum rifle primer. This ignition system allows the muzzleloader to safely use up to 200 grains of black powder substitute, which is significantly more than most other muzzleloaders.

That’s even more propellant than the much newer CVA Paramount normally uses.

The Remington Model 700 Ultimate Muzzleloader was designed to use 250 grain Barnes Premier muzzleloader bullets that have a special sabot designed to handle those exceptionally large powder charges.

This bullet doesn’t have a very high BC like the PowerBelt ELR bullets used by the Paramount, but the Remington 700 UML can shoot those bullets at a very high velocity since it can use such a large powder charge.

While the Paramount might have an edge at longer range, the Remington 700 UML is no slouch either. Indeed, the Remington 700 is a very accurate muzzleloader, has a great barrel, uses the Remington adjustable X-Mark Pro trigger.

The fact that the Remington Ultimate muzzleloader is designed to use Barnes bullets is a definite plus for some hunters who like the terminal performance delivered by those bullets. The same goes for those hunters who want (or are required) to hunt with lead free bullets.

All things considered, it’s highly regarded among muzzleloader hunters and is still a very capable tool for hunting situations out to approximately 300 yards, maybe a little farther depending on conditions. For all those reasons, the Remington Model 700 Ultimate Muzzleloader is another good choice if you’re looking at long range muzzleloaders.

• Overall Length: 47″
• Barrel Length: 26″
• Weight: 8.5lbs
• Sighting System: Iron Sights & Drilled/Tapped For Scope Mount or With Mounted Leupold/Vortex Scope
• Caliber: .50 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: Remington UML Ignition

BUY A REMINGTON 700 ULTIMATE MUZZLELOADER HERE

Traditions Vortek Strikerfire VAPR LDR

Traditions decided to go a slightly different direction from most of the competition with their Strikerfire line of long range muzzleloaders. Instead of using a traditional external hammer for ignition, the Traditions Vortek Strikerfire LDR incorporates an internal striker for ignition.

Similar to the firing pin system used by many modern firearms, this Strikerfire ignition system results in noticeably faster lock times and also allows hunters to mount their scope closer to the bore.

Additionally, Traditions also recently introduced their new VAPR barrels with a faster rifling twist. Instead of the 1:28″ twist that’s common with typical modern inline muzzleloaders, the Traditions VAPR barrels use a faster 1:24″ rifling twist. This allows hunters to use heavier and more aerodynamic bullets like the .50 caliber PowerBelt ELR.

Don’t worry, the Traditions Vortek Strikerfire LDR VAPR will still work great with lighter bullets, especially at shorter range. However, this does give that added capability at greater distances for hunters who want and/or need it.

It’s not quite as good at longer ranges as the CVA Paramount and Remington 700 UML. However, Traditions Vortek Strikerfire VAPR LDR with its 30-inch barrel is still a capable long range muzzleloader that’s available at a much lower price than those other muzzleloaders.

Additionally, this muzzleloader has a great, adjustable two-stage trigger that comes from the factory set at two pounds. It also has a Cerakote finish for corrosion resistance. The whole rifle weighs in at 6.8 pounds, which makes it by far the lightest rifle on this list of long range muzzleloaders.

All things considered, these features make the Traditions Vortek Strikerfire LDR VAPR one of the best long range muzzleloaders for hunters on a more strict budget.

So, if you want something with a little bit more reach than a typical modern inline muzzleloader without making the jump all the way up to the Paramount or even the Accura LRX, then the Traditions Vortek Strikerfire LDR VAPR is the long range muzzleloader for you.

• Overall Length: 46″
• Barrel Length: 30″
• Weight: 6.8lbs
• Sighting System: Drilled/Tapped For Scope Mounts or With Mounted Leupold/Vortex Scope
• Caliber: .50 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: 209 Primers

BUY A TRADITIONS VORTEK STRIKERFIRE VAPR LDR HERE

Note: CVA temporarily suspended production of all Paramount models during 2024 due to an ongoing lack of components (Blackhorn 209 and large rifle primers) for the end user. These are fantastic long range muzzleloaders, but their utility is severely hampered by the lack of availability of primers and powder right now. Be certain you can source appropriate components before purchasing one!

CVA Paramount

The Remington 700 Ultimate Muzzleloader (UML) was the best option for a long range muzzleloader for many years. However, that changed in 2019 with the introduction of the bolt-action CVA Paramount muzzleloader.

Not only did the Paramount likely dethrone the UML as the best long range muzzleloader, but the CVA Paramount was so successful that CVA introduced two new CVA Paramount models in recent years as well: the Paramount HTR and Paramount Pro.

We’ll talk about the CVA Paramount HTR and CVA Paramount Pro in more detail in a minute.

So, what makes the CVA Paramount line of long range muzzleloaders special?

CVA markets the Paramount line as capable of taking big game at ranges over 300 yards due to their outstanding accuracy, relatively flat trajectories, and really good resistance to wind drift.

The designers at CVA did this through a few important design principles.

First, the base model Paramount is a .45 caliber muzzleloader designed to use a “super magnum” charge of up to 160 grains of loose powder. This is significantly more than the 120 grain maximum charge of Blackhorn 209 other muzzleloaders typically use.

Second, the muzzleloader uses special adapters originally developed by Cecil Epps that permit the use of large rifle primers for hotter, more consistent, and faster ignition than with standard 209 primers.

Third, unlike most muzzleloaders, the CVA Paramount has a 26″ free-floating stainless steel Bergara barrel with a very fast rifling twist rate to stabilize the long, high BC bullets designed for use with these rifles. While most modern muzzleloaders have a 1:28″ twist rate, the Paramount has a 1:22″ twist rate.

Since the barrel is free-floated for better accuracy, the Paramount uses a collapsible ramrod that fits in an included pouch for use afield instead of storing the ramrod under the barrel.

Finally, CVA teamed up with PowerBelt to develop a line of new, extremely aerodynamic muzzleloader bullets specifically for the Paramount: the PowerBelt Extended Long Range (ELR). Each version of the PowerBelt ELR has a very high ballistic coefficient, so they retain energy and resist wind deflection exceptionally well.

The base model Paramount uses a .45 caliber 285gr PowerBelt ELR bullet.

Combined with the very high velocities that can be obtained by using super magnum charges of powder, this results in a very flat bullet trajectory for a muzzleloader that rivals the trajectory of some centerfire rifle cartridges.

The standard Paramount has a Bergara HMR stock that has adjustments for length of pull and cheek height and an internal aluminum chassis for rigidity. It also has an outstanding trigger and is just very easy to shoot accurately. Current production Paramounts also have a threaded muzzle and can use a muzzle brake to reduce felt recoil.

The end result is a long range muzzleloader that’s capable of incredible accuracy, has much less bullet drop at extended range than a typical muzzleloader load, and retains enough energy for impressive terminal performance on a wide range of game out past 300 yards.

CVA claims sub-MOA accuracy at 300 yards is very achievable with the Paramount and this has been my experience with this muzzleloader at the range.

All things considered, the CVA Paramount was a massive step forward in long range muzzleloader development and has been extremely well received by the hunting community. If you want an outstanding long range muzzleloader, then you really need to consider the CVA Paramount.

• Barrel Length: 26″
• Weight: 9.8lbs
• Sighting System: Accepts Remington 700 Pattern Scope Mount or With Mounted Leupold/Vortex Scope
• Caliber: .45 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: Vari-Flame Ignition

BUY A CVA PARAMOUNT HERE

CVA Paramount Pro

CVA introduced the Paramount Pro muzzleloader in 2020 as an upgrade to the original Paramount. While the CVA Paramount is an outstanding long range muzzleloader, the Paramount Pro is even better.

Here’s why.

Hunters had three primary complaints about the original CVA Paramount.

First, recoil is pretty stout, especially with maximum powder charges. Next, the original Paramount was pretty heavy. Finally, the .45 caliber Paramount was not legal to use for hunting all game in all states.

So, designers at CVA worked to address those issues with the CVA Paramount Pro.

Additionally, they also made a few other changes to improve the already impressive ballistic performance of the original CVA Paramount and make it an even better all-around long range muzzleloader.

First, the CVA Paramount Pro has an upgraded Greyboe Terrain Stock. This stock is quite a bit lighter than the original Paramount stock and is better for hunting applications, especially in rougher terrain.

Tipping the scales at 8.2 pounds, the CVA Paramount Pro weighs about a pound and a half less than the 9.8 pound CVA Paramount.

The stock isn’t adjustable like the original CVA Paramount stock (which is more akin to a stock for a target shooting rifle than a hunting rifle), but Paramount Pro models designed for use with a scope do have a raised cheek for proper alignment with an optic.

Next, the Paramount Pro was designed from the start with a threaded muzzle to accommodate a muzzle brake to reduce felt recoil. This has been a welcome feature for Paramount shooters and has been so well received that current production Paramount models also have a threaded muzzle.

With regards to ballistics and legality in certain states, the CVA Paramount Pro is available in .40 caliber, .45 caliber, and .50 caliber versions.

The .40 caliber version of the Paramount Pro fires the .40 caliber 225gr PowerBelt Extended Long Range (ELR) bullet, the .45 caliber version fires the same 285gr PowerBelt ELR as the regular Paramount, and the .50 caliber version fires a 330gr PowerBelt ELR.

Capable of firing up to a 150gr charge of Blackhorn 209, the .40 caliber Paramount Pro has the flattest trajectory of any mass produced muzzleloader available today.

Indeed, CVA advertises that maximum loads for the .40 caliber Paramount Pro are approaching .300 Win Mag trajectories inside 400 yards!

That is some incredible performance that surpasses the already impressive ballistics of the .45 caliber Paramount. This is because the .40 caliber has an even higher BC than the .45 caliber PowerBelt ELR and can be fired at a faster muzzle velocity.

For comparison, the .40 caliber ELR has a BC of .360 and the .45 caliber ELR has a BC of .333. A 150gr charge of Blackhorn 209 (by volume) will propel the .40 caliber ELR at 2,740fps and the .45 caliber ELR at 2,300fps.

This is incredible performance for a muzzleloader with both bullets, but especially so for the .40 caliber ELR and the Paramount Pro.

Unfortunately, some states require larger caliber muzzleloaders for certain types of hunting. At the same time, a few states also prohibit the use of telescopic sights during muzzleloader season.

In particular, Colorado is an especially popular state for muzzleloader hunters that has a .50 caliber minimum for elk hunting and also prohibits scopes during muzzleloader season.

Well, CVA designed versions of the Paramount Pro to address those issues as well.

The Pro version is available in .50 caliber (which is legal for hunting deer, pronghorn, bear, elk, and moose all over North America). While some models are drilled and tapped for a scope, the Paramount Pro is also available with the outstanding Williams Western Precision Sight Set, which is the best mass produced muzzleloader sight available these days.

In addition to all of that, the CVA Paramount Pro uses a fully adjustable Trigger Tech trigger. The trigger on the Paramount is very good, but it doesn’t get much better than a Trigger Tech trigger, which allows for rapid adjustments by ounce between 1.5 and 3.5 pounds.

The Paramount Pro also has a 26” Nitride treated Bergara barrel with a Flat Dark Earth CeraKote finish for corrosion resistance. The .40 caliber versions have a 1:20″ rifling twist while the .45 caliber and .50 caliber versions use a 1:22″ rifling twist rate.

Aside from those changes I just discussed, the CVA Paramount Pro still incorporates a lot of the same features and design principles as the original Paramount.

This includes a free floated barrel, the VariFlame ignition system, and the ability to use “super magnum” powder charges (though only 150gr instead of 160gr of Blackhorn 209 by volume with the original Paramount).

With all that in mind, the CVA Paramount Pro is certainly one of the best (if not the best) of the long range muzzleloaders currently available for hunters with a variety of needs and desires.

For instance, a hunter looking for the best long range muzzleloader for use in states like Colorado that require a .50 caliber muzzleloader for hunting certain animals and/or prohibit the use of a scope should buy a .50 caliber CVA Paramount Pro.

Likewise, a hunter that’s not restricted by a .45 or a .50 caliber minimum that wants the absolute best long range muzzleloader with the absolute flattest trajectory, then go with a .40 caliber CVA Paramount Pro.

Finally, the .45 caliber CVA Paramount Pro is a good choice for those who are required to use a .45 caliber muzzleloader at a minimum, but want a lighter and generally nicer muzzleloader than the original Paramount.

• Barrel Length: 26″
• Weight: 8.2lbs
• Sighting System: Williams Western Precision Sights, Accepts Remington 700 Pattern Scope Mount, or With Mounted Leupold/Vortex Scope
• Caliber: .40, .45, or .50 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: Vari-Flame Ignition

BUY A CVA PARAMOUNT PRO HERE

CVA Paramount HTR

Introduced in 2021, the CVA Paramount HTR is a new muzzleloader that’s the newest model of the Paramount and occupies something of a middle ground between the original Paramount and the Paramount Pro.

The most significant change with the Paramount HTR is that it’s equipped with a hunting (as opposed to a target) oriented adjustable stock with a Realtree Hillside camouflage pattern. It has the same 8.2 pound weight as the Paramount Pro, but that adjustable stock is a very nice feature.

Available in either .40 or .45 caliber, the Paramount HTR also uses a 26″ fluted and Nitride treated Bergara barrel that’s threaded for a muzzle brake and the same trigger as the original Paramount. It also uses the same .40 and .45 caliber PowerBelt ELR bullets as Paramount and Paramount Pro muzzleloaders of the same caliber.

Of course, it still has a trajectory approaching what can be obtained with many center-fire rifles, especially in .40 caliber.

Since it is the latest iteration of the Paramount series, the CVA Paramount HTR also has many of the same features as the other Paramount models like a free floated barrel, the VariFlame ignition system providing that more consistent large rifle primer ignition, the ability to use “super magnum” powder charges, and is threaded for a muzzle brake.

Not surprisingly, the CVA Paramount HTR is a little more expensive than the original CVA Paramount, but is less expensive than the CVA Paramount Pro.

This makes sense because it has a few advantages over the original Paramount, but lacks a few features of the Paramount Pro.

With all that said, the CVA Paramount HTR is another outstanding long range muzzleloader. The .40 caliber version in particular is another great choice for a hunter wanting a really flat trajectory, while the .45 caliber version is excellent for hunters who want a lighter muzzleloader than the original Paramount that doesn’t cost as much as the Paramount Pro.

• Barrel Length: 26″
• Weight: 8.2lbs
• Sighting System: Accepts Remington 700 Pattern Scope Mount or With Mounted Leupold/Vortex Scope
• Caliber: .40 or .45 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: Vari-Flame Ignition

BUY A CVA PARAMOUNT HTR HERE

The CVA Paramount long range muzzleloaders also made cut for my holiday gift recommendations. To see what other stuff is on the list, check out the following article:

101 Best Gifts For Hunters

While this post covers the right long range muzzleloaders, that’s only a single part of the equation when hunting with a muzzleloader. For more detailed information on choosing the right primer, propellant, bullets, sights, and scopes, check out these other articles:

15 Of The Best Muzzleloader Primers For Igniting Your Powder

Blackhorn 209 vs 777 vs Goex Black Powder: Which One Should You Use In Your Muzzleloader?

These Are The Best Brands Of Black Powder and Black Powder Substitutes You Should Be Using In Your Muzzleloader

13 Of The Best Muzzleloader Bullets For Hunters

Best Muzzleloaders For Hunters In 2024

9 Best Muzzleloader Scopes For Hunters

These Are The Best 9 Best Muzzleloader Sights For Hunters

5 Best Traditional Muzzleloaders For Hunters

Essential Muzzleloader Supplies Every Hunter Needs

How To Hunt With A Muzzleloader

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It’s a dreaded feeling and one none of us like to think about, but it happens. You think you hit the liver.

However, it’s not all doom and gloom. While a liver shot may not be what you were going for, it is still within the kill zone.

The important part is, are you sure it’s a liver shot, and what to do next.

What is a Deer Liver Shot?

As the name suggests, a deer liver shot is a deer you hit in the liver. It happens more often than you might think.

Due to the deers’ anatomy, the liver sits within what is known as the kill zone.

The liver runs just behind the lungs on a perfect broadside deer and is almost the same length from top to bottom.

In this scenario, your shot would have to be a little far back to hit the liver. But this changes depending on the position of the deer.

A quartering to or away deer will put the liver in different positions in relation to your shot.

Identifying a Deer Liver Shot

The first thing to do if you think you hit the liver is to run through a few checks to double-check. It’s important not to skip this step.

Ideally, you should run through this for all of your shots unless the deer drops in front of you.

Tracking a deer with a liver shot is likely to push him far beyond what you can track.

Position

Not all of us record our hunts, but something like a Go Pro is a handy tool to have.

Not only can you assess your hunt, but in times like this, you can also see where your arrow landed.

If you feel your arrow hit near the center of the deer, towards the back of the ribcage, then it is likely you hit the liver.

Judging by the ribcage is the best indicator of whether you hit the liver or not.

As I mentioned above, the position of the deer changes your arrow penetration angle a lot. So what might look like a perfect lung shot on a quartering away deer may actually be a liver shot.

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Sound

Sound is a difficult method of judging shots, but if you are paying attention, it can really be useful.

Often in the heat of the moment, we don’t pay attention to the sound of the impact.

However, it can tell a lot about a shot.

A liver shot makes quite a thud, and if you hear it, you will know exactly what it means.

It’s almost like a hollow sound but with some substance behind it, like a smack.

Deer Reaction

Often a liver shot deer is identifiable by the deers’ reaction alone. However, this does vary from deer to deer.

In most cases, a liver shot deer will start to run but stop after about 100 yards. They proceed to walk after this or even come to a standstill.

Some deer will bed down after about 200 yards, and some can make it out to 500 plus yards before bedding down.

Blood Trail

The best tell-tale sign of all is the blood trail. However, the downside of this is with a liver shot.

Often liver shots produce little or spotty blood.

If it was indeed a liver shot, the blood would be very dark and as mentioned, potentially very sparse with only a few drops here and there.

The blood will usually have a thick consistency and disappear very fast.

What to do after a Deer Liver Shot

This is where things get tricky. Assuming you read all of the above and are certain of a liver shot then you are fine, because I can tell you to wait 4-9 hours, and you are sure of a recovery.

However, where things go wrong for people after a liver shot is A; they are not sure it was a liver shot or B; they didn’t care to check and went after the deer too soon.

A liver shot will always prove fatal for a deer, but many liver shot deer are not recovered.

This is not because they didn’t die, but because an eager hunter didn’t wait.

The deer still died, but probably 3 counties over or in cover so thick you wouldn’t think it was possible to get into it.

If in doubt, hang back. You will find most liver-shot deer within 500 yards of where you shot him if you wait.

This will allow the deer to bed down, which they usually quickly do after a liver shot.

Come back in 5 or 6 hours, and you’re sure to find your deer just outside the blood trail.

If the weather isn’t favorable, you could start tracking him earlier, but I would at least wait four hours.

I would only wait less than four hours on a suspected liver shot if I saw the deer fall in front of me.

Although in this scenario, it’s likely you’ve clipped one lung alongside the liver.

Final Thoughts

Most hunters are going for that sweet spot, heart – double lung, but it doesn’t always work out like that.

A liver shot isn’t a bad shot, it may not be your greatest, but it’s still a kill shot.

If you suspect a liver shot, back off and wait for at least four hours before tracking, and if you do, it’s likely your deer will be less than 500 yards from where you hit him.

Oil lamps have become popular for their romantic ambiance and relaxing glow. But not all fuel sources are equal! There are two main types of fuel used for oil lamps: lamp oil vs. kerosene lamp oil. So, which one should you choose? Well, there are a few important factors to consider.

This guide we’lli explore the differences between lamp oil and kerosene lamps. Also, how to use each fuel type and any safety considerations to keep in mind.

What Is Kerosene?

Kerosene is a low-viscosity liquid that comes from petroleum. It contains hydrocarbons and has a clear to pale yellow flame color.

People use it as fuel for aviation, home heating, and cooking. Besides, kerosene is often used as a starting fluid for jet engines.

Also, Kerosene is one paraffin oil, and we use Paraffin oil in many industries. For example, the pharmaceutical, food processing, and cosmetics industries.

Further, we can use it as a lubricant and a cleaning agent. Despite their many uses, kerosene lanterns can be flammable, and you should handle them carefully.

Kerosene Candle Flame

Red Kerosene

Red kerosene is an industrial lubricant. We use it to power machines like engines and generators. Since it’s tax-free, you can’t use red kerosene for road vehicles like trucks. The dye in red kerosene helps identify trucking companies trying to avoid taxes using this type of kerosene.

K-1-rated kerosenes, such as red kerosene, can power lamps. But, the foul smell from burning dye in red kerosene will damage or clog your lamp’s wick.

We could not find any scientific evidence to corroborate the claim. But, some say red-dyed kerosene is dangerous when burned in lamps. To err on caution, we tell you against using it.

K-1 Kerosene

K-1 kerosene is the most available grade. You can find it in most major retail stores or filling stations. Also, you can use this type of kerosene in space heaters and lamps.

An upside to K-1 kerosene is that it’s very cheap. Besides, you can use it outdoors (e.g., with a portable stove). The scent of sulfur and other impurities from burning K-1 kerosene is less noticeable.

A kerosene lamp

What Is Lamp Oil?

Lamp oil is a type of fuel that comes from crude oil. It contains a mixture of hydrocarbons, molecules containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

Unlike kerosene, lamp oil is odorless and has a clear appearance. Also, it is less refined than kerosene, so it contains higher levels of impurities, such as sulfur.

Additionally, it burns cleaner than kerosene, producing less soot and smoke. Finally, lamp oil leaks kerosene’s unpleasant smell, making it more pleasant to use indoors.

Alternative Types of Lamp Oil

Of course, you want to decrease the amount of sulfur and other impurities in the air. There are alternative types of lamp oil available on the market. These include:

Canola Oil

If you’re looking for a lamp oil substitute, look no further than rapeseed oil or canola oil. This semi-viscous liquid comes from the seeds of the rapeseed plant. Also, it burns much cleaner than kerosene.

In fact, it’s so clean-burning that it’s often used as a base oil for biodiesel production. It’s not quite as cheap as kerosene. But, it’s still a viable option to avoid using petroleum products in the home.

Canola oil

Castor Oil

Castor oil is a vegetable oil. People extract it from the seed of the castor plant (Ricinus communis). People have used the oil for centuries as a lubricant, fuel, and lighting oil.

Also, it contains triglycerides, which are molecules made up of three fatty acids. The unique structure gives castor oil its distinctive properties. For example, it is more viscous (thicker) than other oils and biodegrades more.

Castor oil produces a bright white light when burned in a lamp, making it an ideal choice for oil lamps.

Olive Oil

Olive oil comes from the fruit of the olive tree. It is renewable, odorless, non-toxic, and smokeless, making it a healthier option for indoor use. Also, it is much less likely to cause fires, making it a safer choice for home use, so people have used it for centuries as cooking oil, lamp oil, and medicine.

Olive oil

Fish Oil

Before people found out about kerosene and paraffin oils, they used whale oil for lamp fuels. Yet, whales are now endangered, so whale oil is scarce and not used.

Even though fish oil has some disadvantages, it is still a good option for lamp oil in some cases. The main advantages are that it is like whale oil and is still available in many places.

Also, it doesn’t burn as other oils do, making it difficult to see in low-light conditions. Additionally, fish oil can leave an unpleasant smell if used for too long. Also, it creates smoke if burned for extended periods.

Lamp Oil vs. Kerosene: What Sets Kerosene and Paraffin Oil Apart?

Odor

The smell is the first thing you should consider when picking a lamp’s fuel. If it gives off a rank byproduct, it’s not meant to be used inside.

While kerosene fumes can be dangerous and harmful, paraffin is better for indoor use. It doesn’t come with odor-inducing chemicals.

Burn Time/Length

Generally, paraffin will burn longer than kerosene because of its viscosity and purity.

Brightness

One of the main benefits kerosene has over lamp oil is that it burns much brighter. Although lamp oil may last longer, kerosene provides more light. Therefore, kerosene lamps are often used outdoors.

You can see them from further away and provide more light. Additionally, since they’re used outside, any fumes emitted aren’t as big of an issue.

Kerosene lamp with rays of light

Uses

Kerosene can power many types of industrial equipment. For example, you can use them for home generators, space heaters, and lamps. It’s popular because it works for so many purposes and is inexpensive. In contrast, paraffin lamp oil is only suitable for lamps.

Refining and distillation

Paraffin oils go through a more extensive distillation process. But kerosene goes through a less rigorous one.

Chemical differences

Paraffin is an alkane hydrocarbon with the formula CnH2n+2. But, Kerosene comes from petroleum oil, so it is a flammable hydrocarbon.

Lamp Oil vs. Kerosene: How Can I Maintain and Utilize My Oil Lamps?

Here are some tips on how to fill and use your lamps:

1. Unscrew the wick and collar from your lamp.
2. Fill your lamp with oil, making sure to follow all safety precautions.
3. Put the wick lamp back in and set it so that it’s above the wick holder—but not too much.
4. Light the flat wicks

Handmade Oil Lamps

Lamp Oil vs. Kerosene: How to Safely Fuel My Oil Lamp?

Always be sure to use the proper fuel for your oil lamp. Also, never use dangerous materials like mineral oil, rubbing alcohol, or pure gasoline. If these substances burn, they release harmful vapors and aromatics, which can cause serious respiratory illnesses.

Also, improper use of fuel can lead to fire or explosion. You should never fill your oil reservoir with ignitable substances, such as acetone, propane, turpentine, or household cleaners.

Lamp Oil vs. Kerosene: How to Dispose of Lamp Oil?

Now the last thing to consider is how to dispose of the fuel. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

Giving it to a Local Hazardous Waste Collection Site

For safe disposal, you can take your lamp oil to a local hazardous waste collection site. This way, they will recycle it instead of adding it to the landfill.

Also, some cities offer oil exchange programs. You can bring your used lamp oil and swap it for a new container.

Give It to Your Local Fire or Gas Station

You can check with your local fire or gas station to see if they accept used lamp oil. Most often, they are willing to take it and burn it off. Sometimes, you can even get a few cents back in exchange.

Donate It to a Recycling Company

You can search online for a local recycling company and drop off your used lamp oil. They will take it, filter it to remove any impurities, and re-use it in their products or machinery. Not only will you be helping the environment, but you can also get a tax incentive for donating it.

A Recycling Company

Donate It to Your Local Charity or Community Center

Sometimes you don’t have a recycling company nearby. So you can contact your local charity or community center to see if they will accept used lamp oil. Many of these organizations are always looking for donations, so it’s a great way to help and make an impact.

Give It to a Friend or Loved One

If you know someone who still uses oil lamps, consider giving them your used fuel. They appreciate the gesture. Also, a great way to reduce waste and keep resources out of landfills.

Use Your Leftover Lamp Oil Again

Finally, you can always use your leftover lamp oil again. Make sure to filter it first and follow all necessary safety precautions.

Burning kerosene lamp

FAQs

Can oil lamps be bad for my health?

Oil lamps are bad for your health if you don’t use the proper fuel. Always be sure to follow safety precautions. Also, never use flammable or hazardous materials for fuel.

For an oil lamp, what is the best type of oil I can use?

Olive oil is the best for an oil lamp. It has a high flash point and is non-toxic, making it a safe choice for indoor use.

Is it safe to use oil lamps inside my home?

They can be safely indoors if you use the right fuel and follow all safety precautions.

Heating oil vs. kerosene: which one is best for your furnace?

Heating oil is best for your furnace. It has a higher flash point than kerosene, which makes it safer and more efficient. Also, heating oil burns cleaner than kerosene and produces fewer byproducts.

Summary

Phew! You’ve mastered the ins and outs of oil lamps. Now you know how to fuel and dispose of your lamp. Always stay safe by following safety guidelines and using the proper fuel for your lamp.

We hope this article has been helpful, and you can now use your oil lamp with ease and enjoy the warmth and light it provides.