Canada goose hunting is the fastest growing hunting sport in Minnesota. Our state harvests more geese than any state in the country.

Many hunters new to the sport are unaccustomed to firing at such a big bird. More familiar with shooting ducks, they often fire with too light a load at geese too far away. To improve hunters’ effectiveness and reduce the crippling of geese caused by ill-placed shots, the DNR has begun teaching hunters how to shoot more effectively. Through a brochure, “Get Your Goose,” and seminars held each fall at Thief Lake and Lac Qui Parle wildlife management areas, hunters are learning how to improve their odds of bagging a honker.

Although it’s a big bird, a goose has a relatively small vital zone. The total area in which pellets will kill a goose is just one-tenth the bird’s total size. To ensure they hit the vital zone with enough ?oomph,? waterfowl hunters need to pattern their guns and find the correct loads.

Most experts say the best loads for geese are sizes 1, BB, BBB, or T steel shot. For most hunting situations, BB or BBB shot is the most effective shot size. Both have plenty of pellets, but still enough energy to bring down a goose. Guns are usually 10- or 12-gauge. Because steel shoots tighter patterns than lead does, the best chokes for geese are modified and improved modified. However, each shotgun choke is unique, which is why hunters should pattern their particular guns.

To test loads, place a 40- by 40-inch-square sheet of paper at the same distance as flying geese that will be shot at. (For most hunters and situations, that’s about 30 to 50 yards). Fire at an aiming point you mark on the paper. Do this on five sheets. Then, on each sheet, draw a 30-inch diameter circle around the densest pattern area on each sheet and count the pellets that hit inside the circle. This is the “pattern density.” Try different loads and chokes until one is found that puts enough pellets (from 35 for heavier loads up to 55 for lighter loads) into the circle, which ensures that enough will hit the goose’s vital zone for a clean kill. Another common mistake of beginning hunters is to shoot at geese flying out of range (“skybusting”). This can cripple birds, flare off approaching geese, and may cause approaching flocks to fly even higher. Some exceptional shooters have the skill to occasionally drop a bird “from the stratosphere,” but for most hunters, a kill at over 50 yards is just dumb luck and poor sportsmanship. A good rule of thumb recommended by goose guides is this: If the end of your gun barrel covers more than half the bird, it is beyond 45 yards and is too far away for a clean kill.

It takes practice to find the correct lead for geese. The big birds have slow wing beats that make them appear to be lumbering along. But actually, geese move as fast as a mallard. Lead accordingly.

Kayak Trolling Motors

Trolling motors are a fantastic little add-on to your kayak that essentially transforms your once paddle-powered vessel into a high-performance motorized boat.

If you’ve been thinking about adding a trolling motor to your kayak, whether that be for fishing purposes or to simply run circles around your kayaking buddies, then you’ve come to the right place.

We’ve created the ultimate guide to trolling motors, including the benefits of kayak trolling motors, the best trolling motors for kayaks on the market, and the main things to look out for before purchasing.

So, if you’re wondering what are the best kayak trolling motors for your specific kayak, keep on reading as you’re about to become an expert.

What is a Trolling Motor?

A trolling motor is a relatively small electric engine that attaches to the back of a kayak to help propel it through the water at faster speeds. These motors are often used by kayak anglers as they emit very minimal sound and allow fishermen to creep up on their potential catch.

In general, trolling motors are fairly straightforward pieces of gear, and it doesn’t take a genius to figure out how to use one. To turn in any direction, you simply move the handle of the motor left or right. And if you don’t want the motor in the water for any reason, you can quickly and easily pull it out thanks to the rotational clamp that secures the motor to your kayak.

Benefits of a Trolling Motor

Granted, kayak makers originally designed kayaks to be powered by paddle, but no one ever said you couldn’t amp up the kayak’s performance by adding a motor. Motors are a great way to transform your recreational kayak into the ultimate streamlined fishing vessel, and if you weren’t already swayed into purchasing your own trolling motor, you will be thanks to these incredible benefits.

No Splashes

The first major benefit of a trolling motor is the fact that they barely disturb the water. This reason alone is what draws in many kayak anglers, as with a trolling motor, you’re able to creep up on fish in a way you wouldn’t be able to with a paddle.

Hands-Free Fishing

Another huge benefit to a trolling motor is the fact that it removes the need to paddle, meaning you can be hands-free at all times. As well as freeing up your hands to hold other things such as a fishing rod, eliminating a paddle also gives your arms a break as we all know how tiring paddling a kayak can actually be.

Convenient and Useful in Emergencies

There is no shame in getting tired mid-paddle because, after all, just an hour of paddling can burn roughly 476 calories. A trolling motor allows older or slower paddlers to keep up with the pack without getting physically exhausted. They are also extremely useful in the event of an emergency as they’ll get you back to shore far quicker than a paddle ever would.

You Can Head Down to Smaller Tributaries

If you’re trying to decide between a regular fishing boat or a trolling motor-fitted kayak, then in our opinion, the kayak will come out on top. Kayaks that are fitted with a trolling motor are extremely streamlined and portable, meaning you can head over to more remote or narrower tributaries that larger boats can’t enter.

GILI’s Top Picks: By Budget

8 Superior Trolling Motors for Kayaks

Newport Vessels NK 180

It doesn’t get much more premium in the world of kayak trolling motors than the Newport Vessels NK 180. Newport Vessels designed the NK 180 specifically for kayaks, and the 24-volt, 60 pounds thrust motor will have you zipping through the water quickly, efficiently, and most importantly, quietly.

If you have a drill on hand, you can easily attach the aluminum motor mount to the back of your kayak. Once you’ve attached the motor mount, you can then further attach the motor as the package comes with (almost) everything you’d need to get out on the water. For those with a power pole already installed to their kayak, the good news, the installation process will be even easier.

The one thing you will need to purchase separately is a lead acid deep cycle or a lithium deep cycle battery that has a nominal output voltage between 24V and 29V. And then, once you’ve installed the battery, you’ll be ready to hit the water using the speed controller, the digital throttle control, and the steering cables.

Newport Vessels 55 lbs Thrust Kayak Series

The Newport Vessels’ Kayak Series made it onto our best kayak trolling motor list thanks to its impressive 55 pounds of thrust. And yes, you won’t need anywhere near that amount for your tiny little kayak, but it’s always nice to have the option.

Newport Vessels gave their 55 lbs thrust electric kayak motor a 24-inch adjustable shaft, which is ideal for most standard kayaks. And as the adjustable feature makes the motor versatile, if you ever upgrade your ‘yak in the future or if you switch over to a canoe, you won’t need to buy a new motor.

Staying on the topic of the motor’s shaft, Newport Vessels designed their motor out of fiberglass so you can use it as a freshwater or saltwater kayak trolling motor. This ability to kayak in any water type of waterway makes the Newport Vessel’s trolling motor an excellent option for recreational kayakers who like to switch up their kayaking destinations.

To help improve the trolling motor’s performance, Newport Vessel equipped it with a 6-inch telescoping handle and eight different speeds: five of which propel the kayak forward and three which reverse it back.

And to finish off, Newport Vessels also added an interesting feature to the throttle. The throttle on the 12-volt trolling motor clicks when you change gears or when you turn the motor off which helps prevent you from accidentally leaving the motor on and subsequently draining the battery.

AQUOS Haswing Electric Trolling Motor

The AQUOS Haswing Electric Trolling Motor comes in at the mid-range price point for trolling motors, and with an available and adjustable shaft length of 24.4 inches, it is a suitable option for kayaks and other small boats.

AQUOS equipped their saltwater trolling motor with five forward and three reverse speed options to give the user ultimate speed control while out on the water. And then, to further help with controlling the motor, AQUOS added an ergonomic adjustable 13.7-inch handle so you can steer and direct your kayak from the comfort of your kayak seat.

Some other mentionable features of the Haswing Electric Motor include the ability to tilt the motor out of the water when the depth of the water changes, the corrosion-resistant metal components making it perfect for saltwater fishing, and the LED power reader that lets you check your battery power at any time.

GoPlus Electric Trolling Motor

The Goplus Electric Trolling Motor comes in a 46 lbs, 55 lbs, and 86 lbs thrust variation, however, as you’re only powering a kayak, we’re focusing on the smallest of the three. Goplus designed their electric trolling motor to have 8-speed control settings, 5 of which run forward and 3 in reverse. You can easily adjust these speed controls by turning the dial on the ergonomic telescopic handle, which can also be adjusted for optimum comfort.

To make the motor as sturdy as possible, Goplus created it out of fiberglass composite rods, die-cast aluminum heads, and reinforced composite materials so it is able to withstand damage, warping, and bending in both salt and freshwater conditions.

And if you find yourself traveling through different water depths, you can adjust the shaft height and the shaft angle at the mounting bracket tilt mechanism for proper depth placement. This feature also means that you can comfortably steer your kayak from a sitting or standing position without any issues.

Cloud Mountain FineFind 36 lbs Thrust Electric Trolling Motor

The Cloud Mountain FineFind Electric Motor is another motor that comes in a range of different thrust options, from the smallest 36 lbs, which we’re focusing on today, to the largest 86 lbs, which is suitable for larger boats.

Cloud Mountain designed their 36 lbs motor out of corrosion-resistant fiberglass and ensured that you can adjust the shaft for proper depth placement in all types of water conditions. Then, to aid even further in durability, they added a reinforced nylon bracket and saltwater-compatible hardware so your motor will stand the test of time for years to come.

As with many other trolling motors on this list, the FineFind Electric Trolling Motor has 5 forward and 3 reverse speed setting on the 6-inch telescoping adjustable handle so you can control the speed and direction in which your kayak is going.

Watersnake Tracer Transom Mount Trolling Motor

The first Watersnake trolling motor to make our list is the Tracer Transom Mount Trolling Motor. This motor, in particular, has 30 pounds of thrust, however, there are larger options if you’d like a more versatile and powerful motor.

Watersnake gave their trolling motor 7 different speed options, five forwards and two in reverse, which you can control by the speed dial on the extendable handle. And speaking of extendability, the shaft is also adjustable and designed out of chrome-plated steel, so you can use the motor in saltwater.

Watersnake T18 ASP

If you’re after an incredibly lightweight trolling motor, then look no further than the Watersnake T18 ASp. This 18-pound thrust motor weighs only 4.85 lbs making it the lightest option (by far) on our list.

Most kayak trolling motors come with much larger thrust power, but if you’ll only be using the motor for kayaking, then this 18-pound thrust option will provide you with all the power you’ll ever need. If you do want the ability to switch the motor onto a different vessel, however, then the Watersnake T18 ASP also comes in a 24-pound thrust version.

Watersnake fitted their T18 ASP motor with an adjustable mount fitting that is compatible with a variety of fishing kayak fittings. They also decided on a 24-inch shaft length and created it out of alloy and stainless stress, so it is suitable for both fresh and saltwater.

Minn Kota Freshwater Trolling Motor

The good news for those shopping on a budget, cheaper trolling motors such as the Minn Kota Freshwater Trolling Motor will still provide you with all the power you need to get your kayak from A to B. The Endura Minn Kota Trolling Motors has a 30 to 42-inch shaft and provides kayakers with thrust levels of 30 to 55 pounds.

During the design process, Minn Kota created their motor from composite materials and gave it five forward and three backward rev settings. Something they also improved with this model is the battery life which now allows you to spend more time on your favorite lake or river without having to worry about your battery running out.

Comfort and ease of use were also heavily thought about, so Minn Kota equipped the Endura with a six-inch telescopic tiller that improves the motor’s overall comfort and ease of use.

Things to Consider When Choosing a Trolling Motor for a Kayak

Before purchasing a trolling motor for your kayak, there are a few things you need to keep in mind.

Power

Kayaks are fairly small boats, and trolling motors, in general, are designed for boats far larger than your diddy little ‘yak. This means that you won’t need to worry too much about the power of your trolling motor, but we understand it’s useful to know what kind of voltage range is suitable.

For the most part, a 12-volt trolling motor would be more than enough for a kayak seating one or two people.

A general rule when it comes to kayak motors is that you’ll need 2 pounds of thrust for every 100 pounds of loaded weight. And when you’re on the market for a trolling motor, you’ll soon notice that even the puniest electric motor will provide you with more than enough thrust to power your kayak.

Control Type

Many electric trolling motor models will come with a foot pedal, and although foot pedals are incredibly useful on bass boats, they’re essentially pointless on a kayak. Instead, you’ll want a tiller handle trolling motor, which allows you to simply direct the direction of the boat by pushing the handle right or left.

You will also find remote-controlled trolling motors on the market, but these are more expensive than a standard tiller handle trolling motor.

Shaft Length

Trolling motors come in a range of shaft lengths, often being fairly long to reach the water from a bass boat. When it comes to kayaks, however, these long shafts cause a problem, so you need to pay close attention to how long the shaft of your motor is.

When purchasing your kayak trolling motor, you need to ensure that the propeller of the motor would sit 12 inches under the water. If the propeller is higher than 12 inches, it will suck air from the surface and create a lot of noise.

To figure out if the shaft length would be suitable for your kayak, measure from the horizontal bar of your motor mount to the surface of the water. Then, add 12 inches to this figure and a further 3-4 inches if you’ll be kayaking in rougher waters. This combined figure is your ideal trolling motor shaft length.

Mounting System

Most trolling motors are designed for bow mounting on a bass boat, but with a kayak, you’ll need a transom mounting system. Transom mounting systems fit the scuppers in your kayak’s cockpit, and once installed, the system will provide you with a solid bar that you can then mount your trolling motor.

Weight

Something many people don’t consider is the additional weight a trolling motor adds to your kayak. All kayaks have a maximum weight capacity, and your weight, the weight of any fishing gear (if you’re using your kayak for kayak fishing), and the additional weight of a trolling motor could tip you over the limit and cause your kayak to sink into the water.

Before you purchase a trolling motor, calculate your weight, the weight of any passengers (if you’re paddling tandem), and the weight of any gear that’ll be on board at any given time. Then add on the weight of the trolling motor you have in mind and ensure that you remain under your kayak’s maximum weight limit.

FAQ’S

you ever find yourself wondering why deer make certain noises? Have you ever heard a clicking sound coming from a deer? If so, you are not alone. In this blog post, we will explore the reasons why deer make strange noises, and specifically why they make clicking sounds. We will look at the possible scientific explanations, as well as some of the traditional beliefs surrounding deer vocalizations. the end of this post, you will have a better understanding of why deer make clicking noises and how to distinguish them from other vocalizations.

What Are The Clicking Noises? – Investigating The Different Sounds Deer Make

Have you ever heard a clicking noise while walking through a forest or field and wondered, “What are those clicking noises?” Well, you’re not alone! Many people are surprised to learn that deer can make a variety of sounds, and one of these is a clicking noise. While it may sound strange, these clicks are an important part of the deer’s communication and are used to signal danger or to let other deer know their location.

So the next time you hear the clicking noises, you’ll know that the deer in the area are communicating with each other!

How Deer Make Clicking Noises? – Exploring The Science Behind Deer Noises

Have you ever heard a clicking noise while out in the woods and wondered where it was coming from? It’s likely that it was a deer making the sound! Deer are known to make clicking noises that can travel through the air, and the science behind this phenomenon is fascinating. understanding the way deer make these sounds, we can gain insight into the behavior of these animals.

So, how do deer make clicking noises? It turns out that deer have an extra layer of soft tissue called the “phonatory apparatus” located in their larynx that vibrates and produces sound. This vibrating tissue is what creates the clicking noises that deer make.

The sound waves created by this vibration travel through the air, alerting other deer to their presence. This clicking noise is a form of communication for deer, and it can help them locate other deer and alert them to potential danger.

Why Deer Click? – Uncovering The Purpose Behind The Clicking

Have you ever been out in the wilderness and heard a strange clicking noise coming from the woods? If so, you may have been hearing the mysterious sound of a deer click. But what is the purpose behind this behavior? Let’s explore the reasons why deer make clicking noises and uncover the mystery of this fascinating behavior.

Deer clicks are a form of communication and are used to alert other deer of their presence. making clicking noises, deer can let other deer know that they are nearby and to stay away from the area.

Deer clicks can also help deer to navigate their environment and find their way back to their home range. Not only do deer use clicks to communicate with other deer, but they also use the sound to ward off potential predators. making clicking noises, deer can alert predators of their presence and alert other deer to potential danger. This form of communication is vital for the survival of deer and is an important part of their behavior in the wild. So, why do deer click? The answer is simple: deer clicks are a form of communication and are used to alert other deer of their presence, navigate their environment, and ward off potential predators. This fascinating behavior is an important part of the deer’s survival in the wild.

What Other Noises Deer Make? – Examining The Range Of Sounds Deer Create

Have you ever heard a deer in the wild and wondered what other noises they make? Deer are not typically known for making loud, boisterous sounds, but rather a range of quieter ones. From grunts and snorts to clicks and bleats, deer can make a variety of noises, each with its own distinct purpose.

While the most common sound made by deer is a loud snort or grunt, they can also make clicking noises. These clicks are generally used to communicate with other deer and can be heard from several yards away.

So, next time you find yourself in the woods, keep an ear out for what other noises deer make – you may just be surprised!

Fun Facts – Interesting Extras About Deer Sounds

Did you know that deer can make clicking noises? While most of us are familiar with the classic “moo” or “baa” of cows, deer are actually capable of producing a unique clicking sound that is distinct from other animals. This clicking noise is made by the deer’s larynx and is used as a way to communicate with other deer.

This sound is often used as a warning, or to alert other deer of potential danger. It’s an interesting sound that is often overlooked, but worth noting the next time you hear a rustling in the woods.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Do Deer Make Clicking Noises?

Yes, deer make clicking noises, usually with their tongues. This is a form of communication between deer, usually used as a warning to other deer of potential danger.

2. What Does the Clicking Noise Sound Like?

The clicking noise made by deer is typically a loud, sharp, and high-pitched sound.

3. When Do Deer Make Clicking Noises?

Deer make clicking noises mostly when they feel threatened or are trying to alert other deer of a potential danger.

4. Are Deer Clicking Noises Loud?

Yes, deer clicking noises can be loud and can be heard from a great distance.

5. What Else Can Deer Do to Communicate?

In addition to clicks, deer also communicate with grunts, bleats, and other vocalizations. They also communicate through body language, such as posturing and tail movements.

Conclusion

In conclusion, deer do not make clicking noises. While it is true that some animals in the deer family, such as the muntjac, can make clicking sounds, this behavior is not common among deer. The clicking noises attributed to deer are most likely the result of another animal or an environmental noise.

Chief II Plus .22 PCP Air Rifle

A 12-Shot Magazine Makes For Quick Shooting

FPS: 830Caliber: .22Power Source: On Board High-Pressure Tank

The Chief II is a bargain for the build quality and shooting experience you get. I was a little surprised for how nice a gun you get for around the $200 mark. In the PCP world, you really need to spend north of $300 to really get some amazement, but the Chief II is a mighty fine airgun to shoot targets or small game. It doesn’t have a ton of five-star reviews on Amazon, but I think that is more a user error than a fault of the gun.

The .22 caliber of this PCP air rifle has often been a topic of admiration, striking a fine balance between power and grace, attributes that have frequently translated into humane and respectful hunts. During my expeditions, it has morphed into an extension of myself, helping me blend effortlessly with the serene surroundings, creating a harmonious symphony of man and nature engaged in a respectful duel.

One thing that really grabbed my attention while using the Chief II Plus was its straightforward knack for packing a punch in every shot, without causing a ruckus in the quiet surroundings. It gives me the elbow room to tweak my shooting preferences, especially when I’m having a go at target shooting with mates.

The adjustable trigger system comes in handy here, letting me switch from a light pull for quick shots to a heavier pull for those moments when I’m taking a careful aim. It’s like having a casual chat with an old friend, where the conversation just flows naturally, unfolding in the relaxed backdrop of the great outdoors.

Furthermore, its integrated scope mounting system has been a reliable ally, offering a stable platform that has often been the difference between a missed opportunity and a successful hunt. Its ergonomic design, coupled with a grip that seems to understand the contours of my hand, transforms long hours in the field into an experience of connection and enjoyment.

Why I Picked It:

The Chief II Plus .22 PCP found its way into my heart and my list for the sheer experience it promises. Its high-velocity shots, coupled with the adjustable trigger system, have often heightened my connection with the surroundings, allowing for a hunt that is as respectful as it is successful.

Its seamless integration into the natural setting, promising a harmonious and quiet operation, has often heightened the sense of connection I feel during my hunting expeditions. It stands as a testament to a hunting experience that is not just about the hunt, but the journey and the deep connection forged with nature.

Pros:

1. High-Velocity Performance: Delivers powerful shots, ensuring a successful and ethical hunt.
2. Adjustable Trigger System: Allows for a personalized shooting experience, enhancing the connection between the hunter and the rifle.
3. Integrated Scope Mounting System: Provides a stable platform for optics, promising precise shots that elevate the hunting experience.

Cons:

1. Weight: Its substantial build might be a bit taxing during extended hunting sessions, requiring periodic breaks to prevent fatigue.
2. Learning Curve: The nuances of the adjustable trigger system might require a bit of getting used to, especially for novices.

This year, we decided to breed our sow, Boo, with Duroc genetics. Boo is a mixture of Tamworth and Berkshire genes, which in the past has led to piglets that are fast-growing, vigorous, and, I might add, quite cute to look at!

We wanted to give a new breed of pigs a try this year, however. We decided to go with Durocs. Durocs have a reputation for being some of the hardiest and quickest-growing pigs around.

Here’s what you need to know about the Duroc pig breed. That way, you can decide whether it’s right for you and your farm.

About Duroc Pigs

A red pig with drooping ears, the Duroc is a wonderful breed to consider if you are interested in raising market pigs.

It is the second most common breed of pig in the US.

Most Durocs will be a deep mahogany color, as ours were, but you might also find some that are a pale yellow or gold color.

History of the Duroc Pig Breed

They were first bred in the early 1800s in New Jersey and New York. The original parents of the Duroc were red pigs from either state.

The pig is believed to get its red color from the Berkshire pig. The Berkshire is a breed that is now black but was once a rust color, similar to the modern Duroc. Some people also believe that the Duroc contains genetics that can be traced to the Guinea coast of Africa.

A very large pig, the Red Hog quickly rose to popularity for its massive size and its ability to produce large litters of piglets that grew exceptionally fast.

These Red Hogs were eventually bred into the Duroc-Jersey and what is today known as the Duroc. However, the breed wasn’t renamed until 1823.

In 1823, a man named Isaac Frink of Milton, NY raised a red boar of this lineage. It was prized for its carcass quality, growth rate, quiet disposition, and broad shoulder and ham areas.

Though smaller than many of the earlier pigs in this line that came out of New Jersey, it ultimately had a much better carcass quality. He named the breed the Duroc in honor of his famous Thoroughbred stallion, Duroc.

Eventually, the original Jersey line and this new Saratoga-based line were crossed to create a hog that was well-suited for the vast majority of farmers.

It was formally recognized in the creation of the American Duroc-Jersey Association in 1883 (renamed the United Duroc Swine Registry) in 1934.

The breed of choice for a large percentage of American farmers, the Duroc is also a good choice for the modern homestead.

Characteristics of Duroc Pigs

Although the Duroc is not the largest breed of pig you will find to raise on your farm, it is still nothing short of impressive. The average weight of a fully mature boar is close to 900 pounds, while a sow will be around 800 pounds.

With drooping ears, it’s easy to pick this pig out of a line-up of other pigs, most of which have erect ears instead.

As I mentioned earlier, most Duroc pigs will be a deep red in color. However, some are much lighter or even golden or orange in their appearance. Durocs are usually medium-length and have a slight dish of the face. They have large snouts and short, curly tails.

Benefits of Raising Duroc Pigs

1. Great for Outdoor Raising

Raising pigs outdoors, whether on pasture or in a woodland setting, is a great idea for so many reasons. This can really cut down on the amount of barn cleaning that you need to do. It also helps when it comes to improving the health of your animals.

Durocs are perfect for an outdoor environment because they are covered in dense, coarse hair that they shed come summertime. They also have tough, hard skin.

These pigs can tolerate both cold and warm weather with ease.

You don’t have to worry about them becoming sunburned, something that is all too common with other kinds of pigs. The Duroc can, in fact, tolerate most weather conditions without a problem.

As long as you have a muddy area for them to cool off, some rich pastures, and plenty of food and water, your Durocs will have everything they need.

2. Tender, High-Quality Meat

If you ever take a glance at a Duroc pig, your first thought will probably be, “blocky!” The Duroc has a stocky build with plenty of meat in the ham and shoulder area.

We found that the meat ended up being a bit more of a dark red in color, too. This was a testament to their diet as well as the fat distribution and leanness of the meat.

3. Fast Growth Rate

Durocs grow quite quickly, especially when compared to other breeds of pigs. In fact, we conducted a bit of a pseudo-experiment this year. In so doing, we raised both Yorkshire and Duroc piglets for the market.

The results impressed us.

The Yorkshires were slightly older than the Durocs – yet the Durocs reached market weight nearly a month sooner. Anecdotal, but something I saw echoed in many other farmers’ reviews of what it’s like to raise Durocs.

4. Large Litters

Duroc sows are great mothers. They can take care of their young with very few problems.

This is great news considering that the litters can be extremely large. Some say that Durocs can give birth to litters of nearly 2 dozen pigs. This is exceedingly rare, but litters can easily contain around 10-15 piglets if you’re lucky.

Not only that, but Durocs have a long life expectancy – up to 20 years when cared for properly. If you are raising breeding animals, that’s an important factor.

5. Minimal Aggression

Although some people find the Duroc breed to be somewhat aggressive, this isn’t usually the case. There will always be some variation in a breed.

Mostly, though, Durocs raised with other pigs and used to socializing will be quite mild-mannered.

6. Good for Breeding

Because of the reasons listed above, Duroc pigs are some of the best when you are trying to breed certain features into a new line of pigs. In fact, they are often crossed with Tamworths, Yorkshires, and other breeds to create superior pork.

Challenges of Duroc Pigs

1. Extremely Curious and Mischievous

One of the major benefits of raising Durocs is that they are extremely intelligent. In fact, Durocs are so smart that many people wonder whether they can be raised as pets. In short – I don’t recommend it.

Because they are so smart, they are also extremely curious – and extremely mischievous, too. They learn quickly. While they can be trained to be obedient over time, in most cases, if you’re raising market hogs, this isn’t something you’ll have the time to do.

Durocs can be challenging to raise if you don’t have the time or money to invest in some serious infrastructure. By that, I mean these pigs need fences – not just any old fence, but a good fence.

When raising other breeds of pigs, like Tamworths and Yorkshires, we didn’t have to worry about them getting out very often.

A 3-strand electric fence was satisfactory in keeping them contained, even on the occasions when the electricity would be knocked out (they still didn’t test the fence).

Our Durocs, however, seemed to escape regularly. They learned how to lift a gate off its hinges and did this repeatedly. That was along with pushing dirt up and around the electric fence and page wire fence so they could wander wherever they felt obliged to do so.

Duroc pigs are not animals that are well-suited to confinement. Even if your barn is lock-tight, raising these pigs in a sequestered environment is not a good idea. They will not be allowed to root and explore as they please if you do.

2. Skittish Personality

Durocs are known for being extremely independent. Even when raised with other pigs, these smart little buggers aren’t terribly fond of human interaction. They will bolt away at the first touch.

This isn’t necessarily a bad thing when you’re raising pigs for meat. However, keep in mind that it might make them more challenging to handle.

My husband and I have always joked that you can’t force a pig to do something it doesn’t want to. Pigs aren’t like other livestock, such as sheep. These aren’t species that can more or less be manipulated or coerced into doing what you need them to do.

That’s doubly true for Duroc pigs!

However, I have also read that this breed is often used for the show ring. I think that, with a bit of training, you could easily have a Duroc that is friendly and docile enough to be handled. It’s all in how much time you want to commit to it.

3. Must be Raised in a Social Environment

Pigs like to be around other pigs – and that’s true for Durocs. Duroc pigs enjoy other pigs and will get lonely if left to their own devices.

Not only that, but they’ll also get curious! That translates to more pigs trying to escape – not good news for you or your fences.

Therefore, do whatever you can to keep your Duroc pigs entertained with the company of other pigs. Yes, even if they’re pigs of another breed.

How to Raise Duroc Pigs

Duroc pigs should be raised just like any other breed of market pig. Although they can handle most weather conditions, provide them with appropriate shelter like a 3-sided barn. This will help them get out of driving wind and heavy precipitation, along with the burning sun.

A pig will eat an average of 6-8 pounds of feed per day, though this of course varies depending on what you are feeding and what age of pig you are raising.

The average pig will eat up to 900 pounds of food. That is after being weaned from its mother until it is ready for slaughter.

Many farmers use a mixture of corn and soybeans to feed their Durocs. You can also feed any kind of fruit and vegetable, scrap, dairy products, etc.

Don’t forget water as well.

Pigs need a minimum of a gallon of water per day per pig, but potentially more if it’s a larger pig or the weather is warm.

They also need a muddy spot in which to wallow. Be sure to provide this for your pigs when the weather is hot. When it’s cool, a bit of straw bedding will suffice.

Durocs are known for being exceptionally clean animals. They will usually only do “their business” in one corner of the barn, sleeping in the other.

Therefore, the amount of straw you will need is minimal. They have no unique health needs that you would not encounter in other pig breeds, either.

Are Duroc Pigs Right For You?

There are plenty of pig breeds out there for you to choose from, including Yorkshire, Tamworth, Berkshire, Gloucestershire, and more. Why should you choose the Duroc, with all these other options to choose from?

To be fair, the Duroc might not be the perfect breed for everyone.

Take the time to read the information above and to make sure that this is the ideal pig for your small farm or homestead – and if you’re looking for a good meat producer that is smart and stocky, look no further than the Duroc.

For well over 100 years the most popular configuration in a lever action is a .30-30 caliber carbine with a handy, maneuverable 20-inch barrel. But a few years ago, it looked like the era of readily available lever actions was over as Winchester closed its doors and Marlin experienced production delays after it manufacturing facilities were relocated.

For a while Mossberg was about the only source for a hunting-ready lever action .30-30 with its Model 464, although Winchester and Marlin are now back in the fold as well. So for those of you pining for a new all-American hunting tool, here’s a head-to-head performance review featuring a classic .30-30 carbine from each.

When requesting test samples, I specified 20-inch barrels in .30-30 Win. caliber, in a standard configuration without bells and whistles. Marlin sent its Model 336C, which the company considers its flagship lever action. Although it has several nice but subtle features such as checkering and a grip cap, it’s not fancy. In fact, it’s the second least expensive model the company offers. A thin rubber buttpad does little to dampen recoil but prevents the rifle from slipping and clattering to the tile floor when it’s propped in the kitchen corner. Capable sights, decent straight-grain walnut and a satin metal finish complete the package.

Mossberg provided a sample of its pistol-gripped Model 464. Like the Marlin, it features checkered walnut stocks and a thin rubber buttpad. Sights feature fiber-optic inserts, which are helpful in low light but less robust than simple steel sights. One Model 464 costs less – the straight-gripped version without checkering or fiber optics – but only by $37. The nicer version is worth the dollars.

After the first Winchester I received wouldn’t accept a scope, I swapped it for the 94 Short Rifle, which has the same 20-inch barrel as the carbine but sports a steel fore-end cap and optic compatibility for a measly $30 more. A traditional (and slippery) plastic buttplate graces the carbine, and the clean, straight-grain walnut stocks are free of checkering.

To give each .30-30 carbine a fair and equal shake, I mounted matching Leupold VX-3 2.5-8x32mm riflescopes for accuracy testing. The slim little optic is one of my favorites for any quick-handling, lightweight hunting rifle, and it’s particularly suitable for a lever gun.

I also used Leupold hardware to mount the scopes. Putting an optic on the Marlin was painless. I simply screwed down the mount, installed the rings and leveled up the scope before torqueing the screws to spec.

The Mossberg was equally easy; once I’d obtained the correct bases. Oddly, the carbine takes two of the front bases intended for a Winchester. Once that dilemma was solved and the duplicate hardware obtained, the Leupold mounted up beautifully.

The Winchester base protrudes forward and partially blocks the ejection port, and I was initially concerned it would interfere with ejection, but both empty cases and unfired cartridges ejected without argument. However, all things considered, a pair of No. 403 Weaver cross-slot bases is an easier solution.

With Winchester 94 Short Rifle, the bases and rings screwed into place perfectly. With only low rings on hand, I had to finesse the optic to just the right spot to prevent interference with the rear sight. Medium-height rings would work better unless a scope without a belled objective housing was used.

What with barrel bands, weighty magazine tubes hanging from slender barrels and fore-ends that are anything but free-floated, I suppose it would be kinder to allow one’s .30-30 carbine to cool between groups, but lever actions are often shot fast and frequently, and I wanted to see how well they held their point of impact and accuracy. So I fired three consecutive three-shot groups with each type of ammunition without pause except to reload. I did allow the carbines to cool thoroughly between ammo types.

To my surprise, accuracy didn’t deteriorate materially as the barrels heated, and in the case of the Winchester – which started out good – accuracy got even better. Nor did point of impact wander appreciably.

Also surprising is that the Winchester averaged the best overall accuracy. Many Marlin aficionados will boast that rifles from their favored company will outshoot the average Winchester, but in these new-made lever guns the Winchester ruled. Although each of the other two produced sub-two-m.o.a. averages with one type of ammunition, the Winchester scored sub-two-m.o.a. with two of the three types of test ammo.

As you’ll see by perusing the accuracy charts, the Marlin preferred Barnes VOR-TX 150-grain TSX ammo, the Mossberg shot the Hornady LeverEvolution 160-grain Flex-Tip best, and the Winchester – perhaps appropriately – shot Winchester 170-grain Power-Point into tidy groups indeed. It fact, it shaded just outside of one m.o.a., eyebrow-raising accuracy from a lever gun.

It’s interesting to note that the faster-twist rifles, the Marlin and the Mossberg, shot bullets in the lighter-weight range better, while the Winchester’s slower 1:12 twist provided best accuracy with the heavier 170-grain bullets. That’s counterintuitive to conventional bullet-stabilizing expectations – until you factor in the extra length of the all-copper Barnes 150-grain TSX and the boattailed, polymer-tipped Hornady 160-grain Flex-Tip. Although the 170-grain Winchester is heavier, its flat-nosed, flat-base, lead-core design makes it easy to stabilize.

I also tested for reliability. Why? As one buddy would put it, “There’s a picture of a lever action beside the definition of ‘reliability’ in the dictionary.” Perhaps I have an extraordinary ability to make things malfunction and break, but I’ve used lots of gun designs that should never jam yet they do. So as I shot the three lever guns, I kept track.

Only two hiccups stood out. One was minor: The Marlin was stubborn to load. Not that the cartridges stuck, but the loading gate was really tigh,t and the path into the tubular magazine felt rough as the rounds were thumbed in.

The other issue occurred with the Mossberg. After each empty was ejected and the lever was closing, the new cartridge heading into the chamber tended to hang up halfway in. A quick joggle on the lever usually resulted in its letting go and chambering easily, but at least twice it stuck hard, requiring me to finger it out and start over.

By very design a lever action should run fast and smooth, so I couldn’t really ignore the problem. However, it’s worth noting I’ve had considerable experience with Mossberg’s Marinecote 464 – an early weather-resistant iteration now discontinued – and it ran like greased lightning.

As for the Model 94, it loaded, fed and fired in stellar fashion – just as one would expect from the highest-selling lever-action model (more than 7 million units) in history.

With accuracy testing complete, I spent some time shooting each of the lever-action carbines casually, thumping distant large targets, shooting at smaller ones up close, and levering fast shots into a half-bushel box at about 25 yards as quickly as I could. Which leads us to the way they feel.

All three carbines balance beautifully in the hands, are responsive in the extreme, and shoulder and point nicely. Decades ago — after mankind’s primary mode of transportation shifted away from horseback — Marlin beefed-up the fore-ends of its carbines. As a result, trying to push one into a saddle

scabbard sucks, but they feel good in the support hand and point more naturally than their more slender cousins. I’ve always thought the fat fore-ends look ugly and don’t feel right to me, but in fairness I must admit they do rest comfortably in the hand.

While bead front sights were once popular for deep-woods, fast-and-close shooting, I grew up shooting match-type post front sights and struggle to achieve consistency with a bead. However, they are traditional, and many shooters do well with them.

The only real ergonomic issue I encountered with any of the three carbines was with the Mossberg’s lever, and it was a result of the wood-to-metal fit along the lower tang behind the trigger, where the wood stands considerably proud. Like the Winchester, the Mossberg features a trigger block activated by opening the lever. To fire, the lever must be squeezed

completely closed, and occasionally when I squeezed it the lever it pinched a fold of skin from the fleshy lower part of my birdy finger. It got my attention, I can tell you.

I despise any sort of safety other than a half-cock notch on a lever action, but they appear to be here to stay. There’s nothing worse than squeezing a trigger on a good buck and hearing the horrible loud “click” that signifies your failure to disengage the safety. You’ve then got to ear the hammer back again (another click), thumb the safety off (and yet another click) and hope against hope you can get another crack at the buck.

Complaints registered, I prefer the tang-located safeties of the Winchester and Mossberg to the crossbolt safety of the Marlin. They are much easier to access without shifting your firing-hand grip. However, the actual safety slide on the Mossberg is made of plastic, and I don’t think plastic belongs on a lever action.

When it comes to fit and finish, I’ll just come right out and say the Winchester Model 94 has the best

wood-to-metal fit, and the high gloss blue on the metal parts is both superbly beautiful and appropriate. It will shrug off corrosion more easily than a coarser finish, too. As for the walnut stocks, the finish is simple and non-shiny. A bit better filling in the wood pores and a few coats of hand-rubbed oil would bring out the depth and beauty of the wood better, but there’s nothing ugly about it as is.

Next best on the fit and finish scale is the Marlin. Wood-to-metal seams aren’t perfect by any means, but they’re respectable, and the metal has a nice brushed satin finish. The wood is finished in a spray-on varnish, a durable option.

Finally, the Mossberg features a brushed satin finish similar to that of the Marlin. It offers respectably tight wood-to-metal joints, but in most areas the wood stands a bit too proud for my taste. In the lower tang area mentioned earlier, it creates a bit of discomfort. On a favorable note, I prefer the Mossberg’s slender fore-end to the bulky fore-end of the Marlin, and the reddish stain on the well-filled walnut is very attractive.

This isn’t really an apples-to-apples comparison because you can literally purchase two of the Marlin or Mossberg rifles for the cost of one Winchester. As you’ve seen throughout the evaluation, the Winchester consistently outperforms the other two, which makes good sense: If you’re going to pay that much more you should get more performance.

Candidly, I didn’t expect it to turn out that way. You pay a good deal for the Winchester Model 94 name, and, conversely, Marlin rifles have an outstanding reputation for offering tremendous performance for the dollar. Frankly, I expected the two to run neck and neck through most of the tests.

The takeaway? If you like fine rifles and want one superb, classic, historical tool that will offer the utmost performance of its genre, pony up the money for a Winchester Model 94.

If, on the other hand, you want the allure of a lever action coupled with a more practical price tag, opt for either of the other two. The Marlin is an established name in lever actions, and features an action legendary for strength and smooth operation, but the Mossberg runs about $100 less. You won’t go wrong with either.

Fish also make a viable bait source, which is great for those of us who love to spend time angling as well as hunting. They can be used in many of the same ways as the above methods: just save the heads and guts in the freezer and make a pile.

One of the main ways they’re used as bait by experienced coyote trappers and hunters, however, is by salting them. When salted, the fish can be kept almost indefinitely without making your house reek or taking up room in your freezer that could probably be better used by stocking with more edible game.

It’s not a bait of last resort, it’s actually quite effective, but it is a bit specialized when it comes to making sure you have some on hand.

Related: “When Is The Best Time To Hunt Coyotes?” Searching For The Perfect Shot

6. Chicken liver

This is one of the most popular baits for coyote, and it’s not hard to see why. It’s a strong scent that will often bring them in from long distances, and they love to eat it.The main downside of using chicken liver as bait is that it can be expensive if you go through alot of it, and it doesn’t store well. You can’t just keep a bunch in your freezer like you can with some of the other types of baits on this list.You’ll have to either use it fresh or find a way to preserve it, which means figuring out how to keep it from going bad too quickly or learning how to salt it properly so that it lasts a bit longer.

8.) Coyote urine

If you want to guarantee that a coyote is going to show up, using coyote urine as bait is about as close as you can get. You can purchase it online or at many sporting goods stores, and all you have to do is let it drip onto the ground near where you’ll be waiting with your gun.The downside to using this method is that it can be quite expensive if you go through alot of it, and it also doesn’t store well. Once opened, a bottle of coyote urine will only last for a few months before it starts to lose its potency.You’ll also want to be sure that you don’t use too much, as the coyote will be able to smell it from quite a distance and if there’s too much they may just avoid the area altogether. A little goes a long way with this method.

9.) Fruits and vegetables

You might not think of fruits and vegetables as being good bait for coyote, but in reality they can be quite effective. This is especially true if you happen to live near an area where farmers are growing crops. Apples, watermelons, and other fruits make excellent bait, as do corn and other vegetables. The key is to find a way to keep them from going bad too quickly. One method is to soak them in salt water overnight, which will help to preserve them.You can also add some sugar to the mix, which will make the bait even more irresistible to coyotes. Just be sure not to use too much or you’ll end up attracting bears and other large animals that you don’t want to deal with.

10.) Bacon

Bacon is another bait that can be quite effective, but it shares many of the same drawbacks as chicken liver. It’s a strong scent that will often bring coyotes in from long distances, but it doesn’t store well and can be quite expensive if you go through alot of it.You can keep bacon fresh for a few days by wrapping it in plastic and stored in a cool, dry place, but after that it will start to go bad. You can also salt it or smoke it to help preserve it, but this will change the taste and smell somewhat.

11.) Coyote food

One of the best baits you can use is something that the coyote would normally eat. This could be anything from a small animal to a piece of meat that you’ve been able to trap.The key is to make sure the bait is fresh, and that you’re using something that the coyote is likely to be attracted to. You can also use a scent attractant to help bring them in, but this isn’t always necessary.

12.) Sausage

Sausage is another type of meat that can be quite effective as bait for coyote, but it has the same drawbacks as bacon. It’s a strong scent that will often bring them in from long distances, but it doesn’t store well and can be quite expensive if you go through alot of it.You can keep sausage fresh for a few days by wrapping it in plastic and stored in a cool, dry place, but after that it will start to go bad. You can also salt it or smoke it to help preserve it, but this will change the taste and smell somewhat.

13.Kitten food

Kitten food can be an effective bait for coyote. The key is to use something that is fresh and that the coyote is likely to be attracted to. You can also use a scent attractant to help bring them in, but this isn’t always necessary.

14.Cheese

Cheese is a common bait that can be used to catch many different types of animals, and it also works well for coyote. The key is to use something that is fresh and that the coyote is likely to be attracted to. You can also use a scent attractant to help bring them in, but this isn’t always necessary.

If your doggo loves to swim, a dog ramp is a must accessory for your boat! Be it taking your dogs out for a good time, a swim, or hunting, you’d definitely want to make their experience as comfortable and safe for them, wouldn’t you?

As much as you love your pet, it will definitely hurt your pocket to spend money on commercial dog ramps. The good news is that you can DIY your dog a functional boat ramp using affordable supplies all by yourself. And, the love and care you put into the DIY process is an added bonus!

Okay, so where do you start? You start by selecting a trustworthy tutorial for you to replicate. Here are 15 brilliant DIY dog ramps for boat ideas for you to choose from!

1. DIY Floating Boat Ramp Pool Ramp or Dock Ramp for Dogs

In this Youtube tutorial, Jennifer Turner elaborates to you on how she DIYed a floating boat ramp for her doggo for under $100. The supplies this DIY requires are two anti-fatigue mats, jumbo noodles, zip ties, and a nylon rope.

For those interested, this is the first part of the tutorial, and in this second part, she shares heartwarming footage of her dog getting used to its new homemade dog ramp.

2. Dog boat ladder instructions.

Cocozoo has shared a fantastic idea of building a dog ladder for a boat. He used 1.5’’ ABS pipe and a pine board for the purpose of this DIY. He further mentions that you can use a 1’’ pipe if your doggo weighs relatively lighter.

You might have plenty of queries regarding this project, don’t you? To your rescue, the user has even shared a plan along with his build experience. All your queries will most likely be answered there!

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3. DIY Dog Ramp

Internet is truly a fantastic place! Here’s another forum on DUCKhunting Chat where the user named Honkin shares his dog ramp build details with the rest of the users.

He used a 1’’X6’’ aluminum tubing with 12 inches inside diameter for the frame and a 12’’X12’’ interlocking sport court for the decking.

The reviews on this thread are rave. If you follow this idea, please let us know in the comments how did it work out for you.

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4. How to build a DIY Pet Ramp Start to Finish – Includes complete Drawings and Instructions!

Follow this DIY tutorial by James Mark Konstruction to build a dog ramp that helps your dog to climb up and down not only a boat but any other raised surfaces such as a car, couch, or bed.

Luckily, this tutorial features all the drawings, plans, and step-by-step instructions for this DIY project. Also, if you’d like to read a written instruction, the Youtuber has shared the drive link in the comment section. Hope it helps!

5. DIY DOCK & BOAT RAMP FOR DOGS

5 pool noodles, 2 anti-fatigue floor mats, 42 plastic zip ties, 2 big carabiners, and 6 feet rope – these are the supplies you need to build a brilliant DIY dock and boat ramp for dogs.

If you have all these supplies gathered, read this written tutorial by HALIFAX DOGVENTURES to construct the ramp.

All the steps are briefly described using documented images for your ease. This DIY looks incredible! Everyone in the comment section seems to be quite impressed by this idea.

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6. Dog Ramp for a Dock or Pool

Save hundreds of dollars on a dock or a pool dog ramp by following this easy tutorial by Eric Hurst. The Youtuber explains every step of this DIY project in detail.

He has further cleared his viewer’s confusion in the comment section and has shared more advice regarding the topic. Make sure you check them out! You might find your queries answered there.

Also, there’s a suggestion in the comment pointing out how the use of PVC instead of wood would result in a better product. What do you think of that?

7. HOW TO BUILD A DOG WATER RAMP FOR A BOAT

Are you a beginner at building a dog boat ramp? If yes, this post by Marine Waterline is perfect for you! From choosing the right material to budgeting to the description of each step in detail, you’ll find all the information you need in this blog.

Marine Waterline further has a range of amazing blogs and DIYs on boating, fishing, kayaking, and a variety of water sports. Do check them out if you’re into such stuff!

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8. Hobie Tandem Island DIY Dog Ramp by Rockin Robin Sails

Rubber mats, PVC, and life jackets – if you have these supplies handy with you, here’s the perfect tutorial for you! This dog ramp is two-layered, where the bottom level stays below the water surface, making it easy for your doggo to climb.

Especially if you own a Hobie Tandem Island, you need not make any changes to this DIY. Everyone in the comment section is applauding this video. Make sure you give it a watch!

9. Pool and Boat Dog Ramp Questions and Answers

If this is your first time planning to DIY a dog boat ramp, this question and answer post by Make And Build Dog Stuff will help you immensely. From DIY ideas and plans to clear some common doubts regarding the DIY, this post is a must-read for those aiming to build a boat or dock ramp for their dogs.

What’s more, this site features plenty of other useful DIY projects for proud dog parents. We guarantee it will be of great help to you!

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10. How to Make a Dog Ramp for a Pontoon Boat: 7 Ladder Ideas

This post by PONTOONopedia consists of not one but 7 brilliant DIY dog ramps for a pontoon boat idea.

From a sleek aluminum and stainless-steel metal ladder that requires professional metalworking skills to a simple DIY utilizing a rubber drainage mat and a few bungee cords, this post has covered it all!

However, remember that this is not a step-by-step DIY tutorial and, therefore, is only appropriate for those who are seeking ideas that they can bring into action.

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11. Homemade boat ladder for you and your dog (small boat)

This ingenious DIY boat ladder idea will leave you speechless! All you need is a used two-step stool, 2 hooks and 2 sets of stainless screw, nut, a few tools, and 30 minutes of work time to complete this DIY.

The hook on top of the ladder perfectly clicks with the boat hull, eliminating any need to permanently attach the ladder or a ramp to the boat, making it perfectly portable.

What’s more, this DIY is not only applicable for your dog but equally great for you when the situation demands it!

12. The Joy of Dog Boat Ramps

By now, if you’ve realized that DIYing a dog ramp is not for you and you’d rather choose to go with a commercial option, this post by Crownline is a must-read!

It features details including specifications and cost for Paws Aboard and Skamper-Ramp. Analyze the pros and cons and figure out the best dog ramp for your animal friend. We hope this blog helps!

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13. How A Duck Dog Should Ride In a Boat

While this is not a dog ramp for boat tutorial, this video by Bodie Drake surely is a must-watch for those who are always accompanied by their dog friends during their boating journey, especially if it’s a duck dog.

Watch this video to educate yourself on how you should train your duck dog to ride the boat such that they can transform into fantastic hunters. The Youtuber shares pretty solid tips and tricks in this video. Do check it out!

14. Boat Projects: Ramps For Dogs

This blog by LakeExpo not only features some of the best commercially available dog ramps but also has information on how you can DIY a dog ramp at the end of the blog.

For instance, you can use an aluminum extension ladder as a framework for the purpose. Not sure how exactly to repurpose an aluminum extension ladder into a dog ramp? Read the blog to find out!

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15. The 5 Best Dog Ramps and Ladders for Boats

While dog ramp DIYs are affordable and many of them don’t even require you to have expert handyman skills, let’s admit, some of us are definitely having conflicting thoughts on whether to DIY a dog ramp or to avoid all the efforts by simply buying a commercially available one.

Well, if you’re having second thoughts, here’s the latest list of best dog ramps and ladders available on the market.

Summary

From the idea that uses an old unused ladder to ones that use cost-effective supplies, we’ve got all types of dog ramps tutorials listed for you in this post.

We’ve further listed a few commercial dog ramps reviews for those having second thoughts. Now, the choice is yours! And in case you DIY a dog ramp, we’d definitely love to know your experience.

Antique fishing lures can be worth a good amount of money – some have sold for as much as $100,000.

There are plenty of collectors out there looking to add to their collection, whether they are fairly common antique lures, or the rarest of the rare.

In this post, we will take a look at the most valuable lures out there and talk about their history, and how much they could be worth.

What is the Most Valuable Antique Lure in the World?

The most expensive lure in the world is the giant Copper Haskell Minnow. This lure was patented by Riley Haskell in 1859 and is a prime example of lures used in the very early years of recreational fishing in America.

The Copper Haskell Minnow is a very rare lure, but there is only one known example of the giant copper Haskell minnow size, and this single example, coupled with the fact that all Haskell minnows are very rare, led to the lure selling at auction for $100,000 dollars.

What Other Antique Lures are Highly Valuable?

Musky Charmer Minnow

There are several types of lures that are worth a good chunk of change in the charmer lure line, but the Musky Charmer Minnow is the rarest and most sought after of all charmer lures.

The Musky Charmer Minnow comes in at 5 inches in length, being the largest of all charmer minnows, and there are only a few known to be in existence today.

The paint scheme with stripes on the rear section of the lure is particularly rare, with only one known to exist, and recently, this one-of-a-kind vintage fishing lure sold for $25,000 at auction in 2018.

Heddon Black Sucker

Heddon has made tons of popular lure designs over a long period of time, and in fact, Heddon still produces some of its classic lure designs to this day.

The Heddon Black Sucker is a fishing lure that is worth quite a bit of money if you manage to get your hands on a quality example.

The Black Sucker is a 6-inch wooden bait with glass eyes, a non-movable intact tail, and a front prop spinner.

The lures typically feature a natural scale paint job and, as with most valuable lures for years passed, are very rare. One of these lures in great condition sold at auction for $19,000 dollars in 2006.

Heddon Mohawk Minnow

You will see the name Heddon a few times in this list, and that’s because Heddon was one of, if not the, top lure brand in the fishing early recreational fishing industry.

The Mohawk minnow was produced in the early 1900s and features a front and rear propeller arrangement and excellent color patterns.

If this lure comes with the Heddon paperwork and box and is in exquisite condition, you could find yourself selling it at auction for as much as $18,000 dollars, as someone found out when one sold for $18,400 in 2013.

1905 Smith Minnow Wiggletail

The Wiggletail is a very unusual-looking mechanical vintage lure that makes you scratch your head when you first look at it.

The mechanical tail design certainly makes it stand out among other tackle from the period, and it is a very rare find, with only ten examples known to exist today.

In 2015 one of these steampunk-Esque-looking lures sold for a decent chunk of change at auction 2015 for $17,500.

Shakespeare Wooden Minnow

The Shakespeare wooden minnow lure follows the same popular lure design seen used by other lure builders in the early 1900s, with a front and rear propeller blade and a cylindrical body that tapers from head to tail.

The props are different than those found on many other lures from the same period, and are bent backwards at an angle, these propellers are known as A-notch propellers.

If this lure comes with the original box, which in itself is very rare, and if both the lure and the box are in great condition, you could fetch over $18,000 dollars for one of these lures, as some lucky person did in 2012.

What Types of Antique Lure is the Most Valuable?

There are several different types of antique fishing tackle that are worth money, from the copper-built Haskell minnow, the rarest of all old fishing lures, to standard steel lures.

The majority of antique fishing lures that are worth quite a bit are typically made out of wood and are hand-painted, and if the lure and paint condition of the lure is good, chances are you can get a pretty penny for one of these rare lures if you choose to sell one.

What are the Most Expensive Old Lures Made Of?

The Haskell minnow is made of copper, and since these are the rarest of all recreational fishing lures, the chances of finding one are like hitting the jackpot.

Most other old fishing lures are made from wood, and water can take its toll on wooden fishing lures. If you find a wooden fishing lure in great condition, chances are it wasn’t fished much and thus can be worth a good amount.

Which Companies Made the Most Valuable Old Fishing Lures?

Heddon, Shakespeare, and Creek Chub baits, Pardee, and Pflueger lures are the more commonly found fishing lures, and they were very popular in the early days of recreational fishing.

Heddon is probably the most familiar of all these fishing lure brands, and there are actually quite a few of them floating around, but not all of them are worth a substantial amount.

Where Can You Buy and Sell Vintage Fishing Lures

If you want to collect and potentially sell lures to collectors, a good place to start looking would be online, such as on eBay or in Facebook groups.

If you live in an area with a very prominent fishing culture, like the upper Midwest and Great Lakes region, start going to flea markets and rummage sales during the spring and summer, chances are someone has some old fishing lures sitting on a table for a few bucks, and that is where I have gotten many of mine.

Are Vintage Fishing Lures a Good Investment?

This is a hard question to ask, as many of the antique fishing lures you find are going to be somewhat common. For instance, I have a Heddon Dingbat sitting on my computer desk that is in great condition, but it features the most common paint job of the type, meaning it is only worth about 30 dollars.

If you happen to find one of the rare ones on this list, along with others not listed, they can be a good investment. There isn’t much information out there on how an antique fishing lure appreciates over time, so if you don’t want to keep and old fishing lure as a collectible, you’re better off selling it at auction.