Guide L-301 Revised by Louis C. Bender and Chris Allison College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences, New Mexico State University

Authors: Respectively, Senior Research Scientist (Wildlife) and Retired Extension Range Management Specialist, Department of Extension Animal Sciences and Natural Resources, New Mexico State University. (Print friendly PDF)

Introduction

Mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus, Figure 1) are one of the most important game animals in New Mexico and the West. The size of the mule deer population in New Mexico is unknown, and densities of mule deer can vary greatly among areas and over time. For example, densities of mule deer ranged from an estimated <1.2 deer/mi2 on private land in Colfax County to <1.9 deer/mi2 on New Mexico State University’s Corona Range and Livestock Research Center (CRLRC), while a recent minimum count found 3.7 deer/mi2 in higher-density areas of the San Andres Mountains (Bender et al., 2011, 2012; L. Bender, unpublished data). On CRLRC, mule deer densities declined from 1.9 deer/mi2 in 2005 to 0.7 deer/mi2 in 2008, highlighting the variation possible in deer populations in response to drought and other factors. In general, mule deer have been declining in numbers in New Mexico since populations peaked around the 1960s, similar to declines seen throughout the West (Heffelfinger and Messmer, 2003). Because of population declines, harvests of mule deer have also declined; deer harvests (mostly mule deer), estimated to be as high as 55,000 in 1960, declined to <10,000 in 2013. Despite declines, mule deer are still present in all 33 counties in New Mexico.

Figure 1. Mule deer are New Mexico’s most important big game species. (Photo by Terry Spivey, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org.)

Range and Habitat

There are two subspecies of mule deer in New Mexico, the Rocky Mountain mule deer (O. hemionus hemionus) and the desert mule deer (O. hemionus eremicus). Rocky Mountain mule deer are found in the northern two-thirds of the state and desert mule deer in the southern third. The Rocky Mountain mule deer is larger; the average field-dressed weight of mature (6 years or older) males (bucks) is around 195 lb, with larger deer weighing more than 250 lb. Mature desert mule deer average about 140 lb field-dressed, with the largest deer approaching 170 lb.

Mule deer are extremely varied in their habitats. Rocky Mountain mule deer are found from above the timberline to low-elevation short grasslands, and frequently in urban areas. During winter, deer that use higher elevations usually migrate to lower elevations where food is more easily obtainable and deep snow does not limit their movements.

Desert mule deer prefer shrublands and woodlands in desert mountain ranges and hills, or arroyos in arid desert flats. They normally spend summer and winter in the same general area.

Physical Description

Mule deer have extremely large ears, hence the name. Adults have a reddish coat in summer and a gray coat in winter. The summer coat is fine and silky in texture and the winter coat is coarser and thicker. Desert mule deer are usually lighter or paler than Rocky Mountain mule deer. The reddish-brown fawns are spotted and depend on their protective coloration for safety. They lose their spots two to three months after they are born. A characteristic feature of the mule deer is the large white rump patch that surrounds the base of the tail. The tail itself is white with a small black tip. Unlike the white-tailed deer, the mule deer does not raise its tail in alarm, but holds it against the body as it flees. Mule deer may also stot, or bounce stiff-leggedly on all four legs, when fleeing.

Mule deer bucks have antlers that are forked (Figure 2) instead of being like a white-tailed deer’s, whose points rise from the main beam (Figure 3). The antlers are shed following the breeding season each winter, and new antlers begin growing shortly after the old ones are dropped. The dropping of antlers occurs when the length of daylight decreases, triggering glandular reactions that control the production of testosterone, insulin-like growth factor-1, and other hormones. The same process is involved in the growth of the new antlers, which are covered by a skin called velvet that contains an extensive network of blood vessels. These supply the protein and minerals needed for the growth of antlers, which are the fastest-growing tissues in the animal kingdom. In late August or September, the velvet dries up and is rubbed off on small trees and shrubs as the antlers harden or mineralize. Antler size and number of points depend mostly on the deer’s age, physical condition, and their genetic background (Bender, 2011).

Figure 2. Antlers from a mule deer.

Figure 3. Antlers from a white-tailed deer.

Life Cycle

The breeding season or rut for mule deer in New Mexico begins in late November (northern areas of the state) and lasts until mid-January (southern areas). During breeding periods, mature bucks cover a large area in search of receptive females (does). The does are receptive for about three days. If they are not bred during this time, their cycles will continue, and 28 days later they will again be receptive. Unbred mature does are rare in New Mexico.

There is little actual fighting between bucks because dominance hierarchy has usually been established before peak rutting periods occur. The smaller or less-aggressive bucks recognize their superiors and usually give in to their dominance. The breeding class is usually the prime-aged mature bucks, plus a few younger bucks who are exceptionally large-bodied or aggressive. One buck will breed with many does, so it is not necessary to have equal numbers of males and females. No permanent bond is formed between bucks and does. When the female is no longer receptive, the buck will leave her to seek other does.

Mule deer have a gestation period of about seven months. Fawns are usually born in June and July, later in southern New Mexico and later if does are in poor condition. Normally, a doe has one fawn the first time she gives birth. After this, she may have multiple fawns if she is in good condition. After about age seven the number of fawns will decrease again.

Fawns get up on their feet only hours after birth, but they are rather unsteady and very susceptible to predation. During their first few days, they remain hidden and alone except when feeding (Figure 4). At about three weeks of age, the fawns begin sampling solid foods, and shortly thereafter they begin to accompany the doe almost constantly. Most fawns are weaned by October or November, after which they are dependent on their competitive ability to obtain adequate nutrition. Fawns that are larger at birth, or born earlier, tend to be larger at weaning and therefore are more likely to survive.

Figure 4. Fawns depend upon hiding and lying still for survival during their first few weeks. (Photo by Mara Weisenberger.)

Survival

Typically >80% of unhunted mule deer adults in New Mexico survive each year, although this can drop to <60% during severe droughts (Bender et al., 2007, 2010, 2011). Likewise, survival of fawns can range from >50% to none surviving, and the latter occurs during droughts when condition of adult females is very poor (Lomas and Bender, 2007). Malnutrition is the most common cause of death (excluding hunting) in studied mule deer populations in New Mexico.

Malnutrition is the most common disease of mule deer (Bender et al., 2007, 2010, 2011), and when other diseases and parasitism cause mortality, the actual underlying cause is usually poor-quality food that causes malnourishment. Probably the most publicized diseases of mule deer are the epizootic hemorrhagic disease-bluetongue complex (collectively called hemorrhagic disease [HD]) and chronic wasting disease (CWD). HD is a viral disease that affects deer, pronghorn, and bighorn sheep; it is spread by biting gnats or midges (Culicoides spp.). Although HD can be enzootic (always present in low frequency), in mule deer it is most commonly seen in infrequent epizootics (outbreaks), which can result in a large number of deaths when deer and vector conditions are conducive to outbreaks. Outbreaks occur during late summer or early autumn, usually in close proximity to wet areas. During outbreaks, some deer die quickly with no apparent signs of disease, others may die within a week, some recover but are debilitated, and still other deer show no sign of disease during outbreaks, and survivors may develop immunity to that particular virus serotype (but not necessarily other HD virus serotypes). White-tailed deer are more vulnerable to HD (especially epizootic hemorrhagic disease) than mule deer, and thus high mortality from HD is more common in white-tailed deer and pronghorn than mule deer.

Chronic wasting disease (CWD) is an invariably fatal degenerative neurological disease of deer, elk, and moose. CWD, a transmissible spongiform encephalopathy, is very rare in New Mexico and is limited to portions of the San Andres, Organ, and Sacramento Mountains. Uncertainty still lingers over exactly how CWD is spread and even the causative agent, which is likely an abnormal protein called a prion. Much of the concern about CWD involves its similarity to bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), or mad cow disease; consuming products from BSE-infected cattle has been linked to fatal new variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease in humans. However, the World Health Organization has concluded that there is no evidence that CWD can be transmitted to humans. Despite this, hunters should avoid eating venison from infected animals (or other obviously sick animals) and should use simple precautions, such as wearing latex gloves when handling deer or elk from areas known to have CWD. Many states also restrict movement of venison or other parts of deer, elk, and moose from areas or states where CWD is present; be sure to check with local Game Departments for regulations on transporting venison. The Chronic Wasting Disease Alliance website (www.cwd-info.org) is an excellent source for up-to-date information regarding CWD and its management.

Predators kill deer in New Mexico each year. The chief animals that prey upon deer are mountain lions, black bears, Mexican wolves, coyotes, bobcats, and feral dogs. Interactions between predators and mule deer are complex and highly variable across distance and time; the key to understanding predation is differentiating between the act of predation and the effect of predation. Although predators kill deer, predation may have little effect on the population if predation substitutes for (e.g., is compensatory to) other forms of mortality because deer are in poor condition or otherwise predisposed. When predation is additive to other mortality factors, then predation can limit deer populations. Whether predation is mostly additive or mostly compensatory varies with the specific local conditions of the predator and prey communities, and their surroundings.

Mule deer can live about 10-15 years. The average lifespan of bucks is shorter than does, especially in areas of heavy hunting pressure. Because of this, most populations contain only 25-50 bucks for every 100 does.

Food Habits

Mule deer feeding is mainly crepuscular, meaning that they feed mostly early in the morning and again just before dark. They prefer higher-quality foods like forbs (commonly called weeds) and browse (leaves, buds, and new shoots of shrubs and trees), but they also utilize grasses when young and actively growing as well as succulents. Seasonally, mule deer diets are >60% browse in spring, >50% browse in summer and autumn, and >80% browse in winter (Heffelfinger, 2006). Most of the remainder of the diet is forbs, and grasses and succulents (e.g., cacti) usually contribute much less than 10% seasonally.

The actual diet of deer is very diverse and reflects what is available. Common foods in northern New Mexico include aspen, chokecherry, oaks, bearberry, bitterbrush, mountain mahogany, and most other shrubs in the rose family (Rosaceae). Winter diets may be supplemented with firs, pines, and other evergreens, though in limited quantities because many of these conifers contain secondary plant compounds that are toxic to deer, inhibiting function of their digestive systems. In southern New Mexico, common foods include mountain mahogany, oaks, skunkbush, yucca, ceanothus, mesquite pods, globemallow, vervain, and silktassel. Piñon and juniper may be used during dry seasons and winter months despite plant toxins, the effects of which can be minimized by mixing these with other plant species. In all areas, a wide variety of other forbs are important depending upon what exactly is available.

Mule deer are classed as concentrate selectors, meaning they eat lesser amounts of very high-quality foods; hence, they select for foods with high concentrations of readily digestible nutrients such as simple sugars. These are, as noted previously, mainly browse and forbs. Because of their need for high-quality foods, deer are always on the move while feeding. They take a bite and move on, spending little time in one spot, selecting the best foods that are available. This continued movement ensures a properly balanced diet if sufficient plant species are present.

Like other ruminants, the mule deer has a four-chambered stomach. When they eat, the food is swallowed with a minimum amount of chewing. Between feedings, the food is regurgitated and rechewed as cud. When reswallowed, it passes through the other chambers of the stomach and on through the digestive system. Food passes through their digestive system much more rapidly than in elk or cattle, however, and this short retention time limits just how much plant material mule deer can digest. This, combined with a faster metabolism than elk or cattle, is what drives their need for high-quality, easily digestible foods.

Availability of water can influence deer use of a particular area. Their daily intake varies from 0 to 1 1/2 quarts per 100 pounds of body weight. This is influenced by time of year, activity, and the kind of forage the deer is eating.

Sign

The most common sign of deer use of an area is their tracks. The track is from 2 3/4 to 3 1/4 inches long, and the walking stride is 22 to 24 inches long. When the mule deer runs, all four feet leave the ground at once, unlike the white-tailed deer, which pushes off with its hind feet. The resulting track patterns of the two species obviously differ.

When a deer browses, a characteristic stub remains (Figure 5). The jagged, shredded end of the twig results when the lower incisors pinch the twig against the toothless upper gums. The deer pulls and actually tears the twig, leaving a jagged, uneven end rather than a smooth cut.

Bucks remove the velvet from their antlers on small trees and shrubs. The scarred and broken branches and bark are easily observed about 18 inches above the ground. Many of these may be found in an area because one buck will rub several trees.

The dark brown scat of mule deer is usually found in clumps. Each pellet is about 1/2 inch long and tapered on one end. The fibrous material on which a deer has been feeding is often observable in the scat.

Figure 5. Browsing by deer leaves jagged twig ends.

Habitat Enhancement Recommendations

Owners who want to improve mule deer habitat on private lands should keep in mind a wide range of considerations. Ideal range of mule deer provides both food and cover, with shrublands and woodlands providing the best habitat because they provide both food and cover. Conversely, grasslands tend to be poorer habitat because they usually lack cover (Bender, 2012). Diversity is the key to managing mule deer; the healthiest deer herds are those on ranges that supply the greatest variety and abundance of woody browse and forbs of high nutritional quality throughout the year. Whether mule deer need free water is uncertain; they can probably meet their needs from succulent foods. However, they do prefer sites around water, and free water may be required during droughts or while raising fawns. Thus, permanent watering spots should be retained and created where desired, especially in desert mule deer ranges. When new impoundments are built, several smaller holes are more desirable than one large one.

Management and the Future

Hunting is the main source of mortality for adult bucks, and control of hunting seasons is used to manage mule deer populations in New Mexico. The locations, date, and length of seasons are used to control hunter numbers and densities; this in turn controls harvest to some extent. In areas where deer are abundant, antlerless and either-sex hunts are used. This encourages harvest by hunters where numbers need to be reduced and maintains a younger, more productive age structure in the doe population.

Ultimately, however, habitat is the key to mule deer populations. Peaks in mule deer populations in the mid-1900s resulted from obvious and subtle landscape changes associated with human settlement (see, for example, the history in Clements and Young, 1997). Habitat changes resulting from extensive logging, initial overgrazing of grasslands, and large wildfires greatly favored mule deer by creating large areas of shrublands and early successional (saplings) forests. Mule deer responded to these new habitats, especially the huge increase in shrublands, with population increases that peaked generally sometime during the 1940s to 1970s. Later, improved range management favoring grasses over shrubs, control of fires allowing shrublands to grow old or develop into closed forests, and greatly reduced logging all reduced preferred mule deer habitats. These changes have decreased the amount of mule deer habitat in New Mexico and throughout the West. As one example, the amount of forestland in aspen, probably the best mule deer habitat in northern New Mexico, has declined 88% (Bartos, 2001). These changes have driven deer populations down because they have greatly reduced both the amount and quality of mule deer habitat.

Thus, the welfare of mule deer in New Mexico is influenced by other uses of forests and rangelands. Land use policies developed by land management agencies are an important component of mule deer management. Only through coordinated efforts of these agencies and support for management programs from the general public can New Mexico be assured of a healthy mule deer population.

So, what does the future hold for mule deer? The “good old days” of the 1950s and 1960s are gone forever; the circumstances that created so much high-quality habitat can never be duplicated in modern times. However, managers can continue to try to maintain or increase the quality of remaining habitats to increase mule deer numbers above the current low levels. Cooperative Extension programs, the Western Association of Fish and Wildlife Agencies Mule Deer Working Group (www.muledeerworkinggroup.com), and State Wildlife Agencies all have publications and other information available on increasing the quality of deer habitat. For more information on all aspects of mule and white-tailed deer ecology and management, see Deer of the Southwest (Heffelfinger, 2006).

References

Bartos, D.L. 2001. Landscape dynamics of aspen and conifer forests. In W.D. Shepperd, D. Binkley, D.L. Bartos, T.J. Stohlgren, and L.G. Eskew (compilers), Sustaining aspen in western ecosystems: Symposium proceedings [Proceedings RMRS-P-18], (pp. 5-14). Fort Collins: U.S. Forest Service, Rocky Mountain Research Station.

Bender, L.C. 2011. Basics of trophy management [Guide L-111]. Las Cruces: New Mexico State University Cooperative Extension Service.

Bender, L.C. 2012. Guidelines for management of habitat for mule deer: Piñon-juniper, Chihuahuan desert, arid grasslands, and associated arid habitat types [Circular 662]. Las Cruces: New Mexico State University Cooperative Extension Service.

Bender, L.C., L.A. Lomas, and J. Browning. 2007. Condition, survival, and cause-specific mortality of mule deer in northcentral New Mexico. Journal of Wildlife Management, 71, 1118—1124.

Bender, L.C., J.C. Boren, H. Halbritter, and S. Cox. 2011. Condition, survival, and productivity of mule deer in semiarid grassland-woodland in east-central New Mexico. Human-Wildlife Interactions, 5, 276—286.

Bender, L.C., B.D. Hoenes, and C.L. Rodden. 2012. Factors influencing survival of desert mule deer in the greater San Andres Mountains, New Mexico. Human-Wildlife Interactions, 6, 245—260.

Clements, C.D., and J.A. Young. 1997. A viewpoint: Rangeland health and mule deer habitat. Journal of Range Management, 50, 129-138.

Heffelfinger, J. 2006. Deer of the Southwest. College Station: Texas A&M University Press.

Heffelfinger, J.R., and T.A. Messmer. 2003. Introduction. In J.C. de Vos, Jr., M.R. Conover, and N.E. Headrick (Eds.), Mule deer conservation: Issues and management challenges (pp. 1-11). Logan, UT: Jack H. Berryman Institute.

Lomas, L.A., and L.C. Bender. 2007. Survival and cause-specific mortality of mule deer fawns in northcentral New Mexico. Journal of Wildlife Management, 71, 884-894.

Original author: James E. Knight, Extension Wildlife Specialist.

Acknowledgement: Some of the information presented here was obtained from publications of the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish (www.wildlife.state.nm.us). This agency is responsible for the management of big game populations in New Mexico.

To find more resources for your business, home, or family, visit the College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences on the World Wide Web at pubs.nmsu.edu

Contents of publications may be freely reproduced for educational purposes. All other rights reserved. For permission to use publications for other purposes, contact [email protected] or the authors listed on the publication.

New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. NMSU and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.

May 2014

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Designed to hit game hard without doing the same to your wallet, the Bear X Trance 410 is accurate, reliable and fast, yet checks in at less than $500. The Trance 410 boasts a narrow profile — only 12 inches wide when cocked (14 inches wide uncocked) — and fires bolts 410 fps thanks to its 185-pound draw weight and 14.5-inch power stroke. The bow sports a black finish and comes with a manual cocking sled. Three Bear X TrueX Max bolts, 4×32 illuminated reticle scope, 4-bolt quiver and sling are all included. $499.99 | beararchery.com

Top-Notch Starter Package — Wicked Ridge Blackhawk XT

A solid option for someone just starting out in crossbow hunting, the Blackhawk XT is not only fast, accurate and affordable, it’s also available with the ACUdraw integrated cocking device that reduces the 175-draw weight to a mere 5 pounds of force, making cocking the bow super easy. Capable of launching bolts up to 380 fps, this horizontal bow measures 35 inches long, 15 inches wide when cocked and weighs 6 pounds without the scope and accessories. It comes with a TenPoint Multi-Line Scope, three Match 400 Carbon Alpha-Nock bolts, 3-bolt quiver and more. In addition to the ACUDraw, the Blackhawk XT is also available with the ACUdraw 50, an integrated rope-cocking device that features self-retracting cords/hooks that magnetically store in the butt stock when not in use. If you want to introduce a youth or new hunter to archery hunting, this entry level model is packed with positives! $549.99 (with ACUdraw), $449.99 (with ACUdraw 50) | wickedridgecrossbows.com

Venison usually refers to deer meat but it can also include any wild game meat such as elk, carabao, and antelope. Canning venison is a great way to preserve the fall harvest and fill your shelves with shelf stable foods for quick meals.

It will also free up freezer space and help prepare you for power outages.

Neither my husband nor I grew up in a hunting family, fishing yes, hunting no. However, when we moved to this area we met many people who hunt and over the years we have become a family who eats wild game. Each fall you’ll find me canning venison as it’s my favorite way to preserve venison (and beef).

I’ve had a love/hate relationship with venison since the first time I ate it at a friend’s house. There have been times I had it and it was wonderful and at times hardly edible. There are a lot of variables such as the age of the deer and how it was butchered that will determine how “gamey” the meat is. We (as in I) do not like the “gamey” taste although I know many people who do.

Canning venison seems to remove the gamey flavor and once you add onions and garlic it really makes for a nice quick main dish.

In full disclosure, I have to say that I was a bit worried about eating canned venison the first time. The finished product doesn’t look very appealing (in the jar). However, when I opened the jar my daughter said “That smells good!” and you know what? It did.

I put it in a skillet, simmered it for 15 minutes and added some flour to make a gravy. The meat was very tender and tasty. I’ve been canning venison (and lots of other meats) ever since.

Tips for canning venison

Contrary to what some sites say, you do have to use a pressure canner to can meat. It is a low-acid food which is not safe to can in a water bath canner.

Also, you cannot put the flour in the jar to make the gravy ahead of time – the flour can coat the jar and mess up the process.

If you’re worried about the meat tasting strong or gamey, you can add a little tomato juice or sauce to the jars before canning. This will mellow the flavor of strong-flavored wild meats.

Canning venison is just like canning any other meat and you can use these same directions for canning wild game, such as elk or moose, and beef or chicken. The process is the same.

Even though venison doesn’t have much fat, remove any excess fat and any silver skin, which is the connective tissue. It can seem tedious but it really does go quickly and will make for a better end product.

Each quart jar will hold about 1 1/2 pounds of cubed venison or beef. That should help you figure out how many jars you need.

It’s recommended that salt be added to the canned meat, it’s just for flavor not for safety so it can be omitted if you want to. Also, you don’t have to use canning salt, any pure salt is just fine.

You can also add any dry spices such as black pepper, garlic or onion powder to the jars without compromising the safety.

Here are some tips for using a pressure canner. Pressure canning is super easy, just follow the directions that came with your canner. This is the pressure canner I have and I really like it. I like that it doesn’t have a gasket I have to worry about and that I can can 7 quarts or 18-19 pints in one batch.

I also like to use Tattle reusable lids for our canned venison. I try to use them for any canning that I do for our family as it really cuts down on the cost of canning. If you’re using metal disposable lids, make sure to use new lids as they are for single use only.

I like to keep track of all my home preserved food with these worksheets. You can get a copy emailed to you by filling out the form below.

Raw pack vs hot pack for canned venison

There are two ways to can venison (or beef) and both result in super tender meat. You can either raw pack or hot pack the venison.

Sometimes I choose to raw pack the meat simply because it’s faster, but I do think I get a better end product for storing when I hot pack the venison. Sometimes when I raw pack venison there isn’t enough natural meat juices to cover the meat.

You don’t need to add water or broth when you raw pack venison as the meat will make it’s own juice during the canning process.

Just know that it might not make enough juice to fully cover the meat in the jars, and it’s totally fine. The meat is still safe, but the meat not covered will darken over time.

Canning venison with the hot pack method means that you precook the meat in a small amount of fat before you put in the jars. Then you pour the drippings, broth, or hot water over the meat. This helps you know that there will be enough liquid to cover the meat in the finished product but it takes a little longer.

When you serve the meat you need to heat it up, some resources recommend boiling home canned meat and vegetables for 10 minutes before serving but that is no longer the recommendation from the National Center for Home Food Preservation. But it’s probably not very tasty straight out of the can, so go ahead and heat it up.

How to can venison with the raw pack method

1. Wash canning jars and lids in hot soapy water.
2. Put the pressure canner on the stove and add water according to the manufacturer directions.
3. Turn the heat to medium high to heat the water – you want it hot but not boiling (about 140F)
4. Put the clean canning jars in the pressure canner to keep them hot while you prepare the venison.
5. Cut the raw venison into cubes, remove any excess fat and muscle tissue (silver skin)
6. One by one, remove the jars from the canner and fill each jar with the raw meat and leave a 1-inch headspace. You’ll want to firmly pack the meat down.
7. Add onion and garlic to each jar if desired, if you add onion and garlic you might need to remove some meat so you still have a 1-inch headspace.
8. Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt per pint and 1 teaspoon of salt per quart, if desired.
9. Wipe jar rims with a clean damp cloth.
10. Top the jars with lids and screw bands on. I really like to use canning reusable lids on these because I don’t normally give these as gifts.
11. Place filled jars into the pressure canner (prepared per manufacturer guidelines).
12. Lock the lid
13. Turn up the heat to medium-high
14. Once it’s boiling and you hear steam coming from the vent, let the steam vent from canner for 7 minutes, then put weight on the vent,
15. Continue heating until you reach 10 pounds pressure (adjusting for altitude if necessary)
16. Process pint jars at 10 pounds of pressure for 75 minute, and quart jars for 90 minutes
17. After processing time is finished, turn off heat and let pressure go all the way to zero psi
18. Once the canner is completely depressurized, remove lid.
19. Let the jars cool in the canner for about 10 minutes.
20. Remove jars with a jar lifter and put them on a towel on the counter to cool overnight.
21. Once they’re cool, remove bands, wipe jars, and store in a cool, dry place.

How to can venison with the hot pack method

1. Wash canning jars and lids in hot soapy water. The jars will need to stay hot while you prepare the meat.
2. Turn the heat to medium high to heat the water – you want it hot but not boiling (about 140F)
3. Put the clean jars in the pressure canner to keep them hot while you prepare the venison.
4. Cut the raw venison into cubes, remove any excess fat and muscle tissue (silver skin)
5. Brown raw meat in a small amount of oil. No need to cook it all the way through, just until it’s at the rare stage and releasing it’s juices.
6. One by one, remove the hot jars from the canner and add the partially cooked venison to each jar.
7. Add onion and garlic to each jar if desired.
8. Add 1/2 tsp salt per pint and 1 tsp salt per quart if desired.
9. Fill each jar with the hot venison and leave a 1-inch headspace.
10. Pour the drippings over the meat leaving a 1-inch headspace.
11. Use a bubble remover or silicone spatula to get air bubbles out of the jar by sliding the bubble remover between the jar and the meat and gently pressing the meat towards the opposite side of the jar.
12. Add hot water, broth or tomato juice to the jar to cover the meat.
13. Wipe the rims of the jars with a clean damp cloth.
14. Top jars with lids and screw the bands on. I really like to use canning reusable lids on these because I don’t normally give these as gifts.
15. Place filled jars into water in pressure canner (prepared per manufacturer guidelines).
16. Lock the lid
17. Turn up the heat to medium-high
18. Once it’s boiling and you hear steam coming from the vent, let the steam vent from canner for 7 minutes, then put weight on vent
19. Continue heating until you reach 10 pounds pressure (adjusting for higher elevations if necessary)
20. Process pint jars for 75 minute, and quart jars for 90 minutes
21. After processing time is finished, turn off heat and let pressure go all the way to zero psi
22. Once the canner is completely depressurized, remove lid.
23. Let the jars cool in the canner for about 10 minutes.
24. Remove jars with a jar lifter and put them on a towel on the counter to cool overnight.
25. Once they’re cool, remove bands, wipe jars, and store properly.

Adjusting Pressure for Altitude:

If you live 1000 feet or more above sea level you’ll need to use a pressure higher than 10psi for canning meats. Use the graph below which is from the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

How to cook canned venison

Home-canned- venison is wonderful even if it doesn’t look so tasty in the jar. There are three ways I like to use canned venison.

Our favorite way is to put it in a skillet and add flour to make a gravy. I just put a bit of water in the empty mason jar and add a heaping tablespoon of flour. I mix is up to get rid of clumps. Then slowly pour it into the hot meat and stir. If it needs to be thicker I add more flour, if it’s too thick I add a bit of water. I add salt and pepper. If I want something more like Mexican carne guisada, I add cumin and a bit of chili powder. I serve it over mashed potatoes, using canned potatoes when I’m short on time.

Sometimes, we’ll cook the meat and let the juices evaporate then add bar b que sauce for bar b que sandwiches.

Lastly, I’ll sometimes use canned venison and other home canned vegetables to make a quick stew.

More Venison Recipes

Venison can be used as an alternative in any recipe that calls for red meat, although the flavor may be a little different since wild game meat is leaner than beef and most other red meats.

If you have a freezer full of venison and don’t want to can it all, there are plenty of other ways to prepare it. We love making venison jerky with some of our deer meat.

Here are 50 recipes to make delicious venison burgers, steaks, stews, chili and much more!

Do you can venison or other meats? If so, share your ideas in the comments.

Thanks for sharing with your friends!

If you want to protect your home from threats, you can’t just rely on security cameras and all those fancy-schmancy security systems.

What if the grid goes down?

They’ll be nothing more than decorations.

So to defend your fortress and your survival supplies when things go south, one thing you need to do is put together some booby traps.

Here’s what you need to know about them:

Important Things to Consider Before Rigging Your Booby Traps

Booby traps are devices designed to catch animals or people by surprise. Some can seriously injure or even kill a victim, while others are way tamer.

You can’t just make them for the heck of it. There are a couple of things you need to ask yourself first before you go and set traps all over your backyard:

Is It Legal?

Booby traps have a reputation for being vicious devices used in wars. With the injuries they can inflict, it’s no surprise that it’s illegal to make most of them.

Don’t try building punji stakes or toe poppers or any of those dangerous traps.

You’ll get into major trouble with the law and probably land in the slammer, and that’s the last thing you want when you’re prepping for SHTF.

Is It Safe to Set Up?

While something may be legal, that still doesn’t mean it’s safe. Setting up booby traps may put you in a sticky situation. There’s nothing worse than being taken out by the very things that were meant to protect you.

Think about your family, too. Will you be able to live with yourself if your significant other or kids get harmed?

If you have younger kids, then maybe it’s better for you to go with non-lethal self-defense weapons instead. You can keep these out of their reach but you can’t exactly do the same with tripwires.

Is It Easy to Spot?

Your booby traps should blend in with their environment. If not, it won’t take long for an intruder to discover and bypass them.

You’ll need to learn how to camouflage your traps well. That includes using certain wires instead of others and figuring out what colors to use to trick even the most seasoned thieves.

Also, it will be harder to trick enemies if your traps involve too many bells and whistles. Keep them small and simple.

Now that you know what to keep in mind, here are some booby traps you can make:

What Are the Perfect DIY Booby Traps for Home Defense?

Booby traps don’t need to be deadly to be effective.

All the projects listed below will surprise intruders more than harm them, but they make great deterrents. And if you’re really careful, they’re safe to construct.

Check them out:

Tripwires

A tripwire is a classic booby trap. It involves a wire that extends tautly across a pathway, like in between trees or a doorframe.

Folks usually use braided fishing lines for tripwires because they’re thin enough to be nearly invisible to the naked eye and they also won’t split when a person walks through them.

The line or wire is connected to an alarm that goes off as soon as someone activates the tripwire. There are several types of tripwires that use different alarm systems.

Here are some that you can make at home:

Mousetrap Tripwire

Believe it or not, mousetraps don’t only help you catch the mice that have been stealing your food.

With a mousetrap, a few ring caps, and a fishing line, you can make an effective tripwire alarm. This article shows you how.

Just watch your fingers when you’re working on it — the mousetrap might snap on them. A sturdy pair of gloves should provide you with the protection you need.

Tin Can Alarm

Who says you need a high-tech perimeter alarm to safeguard your territory?

With a few tin cans, paracord/fishing line, and some sticks, you can create one that’s loud enough to surprise intruders and alert you to their presence.

What you need to do is tie at least three tin cans together using a paracord or fishing line. Then, look for two trees that are close enough to one another. Use the paracord to secure a loop around their trunks.

There should be a space in between the trunks. This is where you should hang your cans. After that, you have to make a loose loop under the cans.

That’s all you need to create the alarm.

The next things to do include making the trigger using 3 different-sized sticks, determining your perimeter, and then setting up the trap. These steps are explained in further detail here.

Keychain Alarm Tripwire

If your DIY skills aren’t the greatest, this trap is for you. There are only two things you need: a keychain alarm (which you can easily find online) and a fishing line.

The keychain you pick should have a hole on the reverse side. This is where you tie the line that will attach it to a tree, a door, or a table leg.

Air Horn Tripwire

Hate how obnoxious an air horn sounds?

Well, so will intruders when it disrupts their sneaky infiltration into your property.

To whip up this trap, you’ll need to build a deadfall trap above your air horn.

Choose a flat rock and prop it up on some sticks. Let the trigger stick stay on top of the horn. The trigger stick should be attached to the line. Secure the other end of the line to a nearby tree.

When a trespasser’s leg gets caught on the tripwire, a domino effect happens…

The trigger stick will give out from beneath the rock.

The rock will fall on the horn.

The horn will make a deafening sound that wakes even the deepest sleepers.

The enemy will crap their pants in shock and try to make a run for it.

Pit Traps

There’s probably no booby trap more straightforward than a pit trap. It’s really just a big hole in the ground.

Before you dig the pit, look for a strategic location. Once you secure a spot, use an entrenching tool to do the digging. Keep shoveling until it’s deep enough to prevent an average-sized person from climbing their way out.

When you’re through making the pit, put a net on top of it and disguise it with leaves, rocks, and other debris.

Also, remember the exact place you excavated the trap. You don’t want to faceplant into a hole while you’re in the middle of trimming and pruning your plants.

Dye Device

In a bank robbery, you know how robbers give bank tellers their demands? They normally command them to shove hundreds of thousands of dollars in a bag.

The tellers may seem like they’re giving in to the robbers’ whims, but they actually have a trick up their sleeves — the dye pack. This nifty gizmo stains the cash a bright color, letting everyone know that it’s stolen.

You can take inspiration from the dye pack and apply it to your home defense.

Just fill an automatic spray bottle with semi-permanent dye. You can set this up as soon as you see folks trespassing on your property.

They won’t just get surprised; they’ll be so doused in dye that they’ll look like cheap knockoffs of the creatures from the Avatar movie.

Talking Booby Trap

Most thieves are on edge when they turn up at a mark’s home. They don’t wanna get caught.

So in the unlikely scenario that they breach past your defenses and enter your home, a talking booby trap can scare the living daylights out of them.

This little device involves recording a special message or sound effect meant for home invaders. You’re supposed to hide it somewhere clever, where the bad guys can activate it unknowingly.

Once the gizmo is triggered, they’ll hear the present you left for them loud and clear — they messed with the wrong home.

For complete instructions on how to make a talking booby trap, take a look at this article.

Final Thoughts

Booby traps make a perfect addition to a home defense plan — when you take the law, your family’s safety, and common sense into consideration.

Along with learning self-defense and making key security upgrades to your home, the booby traps we featured will help you win against the bad guys and keep your precious stockpile safe.

Just don’t be too obvious when you build these traps to avoid getting unwanted attention from the neighbors.

We hope you learned something from this! But if you wanna learn even more about home defense or making a foolproof SHTF plan, you should check out our other articles.

“Demystifying Texas Air Rifle Laws for Felons: Exploring the Possibility of Ownership”

can a felon own an air rifle in texas?

In the state of Texas, the laws regarding felons owning firearms are quite strict. While it is generally illegal for felons to possess firearms, there is a specific provision that allows them to own and possess certain types of firearms, including air rifles. According to Texas law, a person with a felony conviction can legally own an air rifle as long as their felony offense did not involve the use or threat of violence.

However, it is important to note that even though felons may be allowed to possess air rifles in Texas, they still face certain restrictions. For instance, they are prohibited from carrying the air rifle outside their premises without proper authorization or transporting it in a vehicle without complying with specific regulations. Additionally, federal law still considers felons in possession of any type of firearm as breaking the law and subject to potential penalties.

In Texas, felons are prohibited from owning firearms, including air rifles. While certain states allow felons to possess non-lethal weapons like air rifles, Texas maintains strict regulations that apply equally to all types of firearms. Thus, felons should be aware of the legal restrictions concerning gun ownership in order to avoid any potential violations.

With 2 million acres, Mississippi deer hunters keep scoring big. Here are details on the WMAs most likely to produce.

All deer hunters have a lot in common, including the consistent desire to harvest a nice buck for bragging rights with friends and a wall display at home or at the office.

When it comes to deer hunting on public lands like state wildlife management areas, however, on the surface it might seem like achieving such goals is pretty unrealistic. Yet, hunters across the state prove that statement wrong every eer season in Mississippi on WMAs.

The 2013-14 Mississippi Outdoor Digest from the Mississippi Department of Wildlife Fisheries and Parks lists 53 wildlife management areas in the MDWFP system. Some are state owned, others are federally owned, such as U.S. Forest Service and U.S. Army Corps of Engineers lands, under the management of the MDWFP through memorandums of understanding.

Situated around the state and requiring only a $15 annual WMA permit for non-exempt sportsmen, there is reasonable access to any resident.

The WMAs range in size from the tiny 891-acre Trim Cane WMA near Starkville to the overwhelming 58,480-acre Sunflower WMA just east of Rolling Fork.

In between are WMAs of all sizes, and several offer plenty of acreage. There are 13 other WMAs in the state with over 20,000 acres and eight more over 10,000 acres. Consult the MDWFP website at mdwfp.com and click under Deer Program and a second click on Wildlife Management Areas at the bottom of the deer page for complete information on WMAs, including a statewide map and a lot of helpful information on draw hunts (see feature on draw hunts by David Hawkins in this edition of Mississippi Sportsman).

The bottom line is that there are more than enough quality open public land options in this state to satisfy any deer hunter, providing a tremendously valuable resource.

Deer hunting habitats vary widely across these lands as does the topography and terrain. Literally there is something here for every deer hunter.

Also don’t forget the many thousands of other acres open to the public for hunting as well on property identified as National Wildlife Refuges, and lands controlled by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers situated around the several water resource reservoirs dotted around the state, as well as 10,000 acres of state land around Barnett Reservoir near Jackson.

All total, there’s nearly two million acres of public hunting lands in the Magnolia State.

Targeting a Big Buck WMA

Unless you just happen to personally know or have experienced deer hunting on a particular WMA how do you choose one for hunting bucks? As you can read further in the associated sidebar to this feature, there is a wealth of information about all state WMAs in the annual Deer Program Report.

Paramount in the listing of harvest data and other information on all WMAs are the numbers for bucks taken on each individual property.

Is this a guarantee that you will take a trophy buck on that WMA? Hardly, so let’s get real. The laws of averages improve in the deer hunter’s favor when they select a site to hunt that has a proven record for yielding decent numbers of bucks. The odds for taking exceptional bucks go up when you compare the average antlers of bucks taken at the different WMAs.

By hunting these top buck harvest WMAs you elevate your chances, all else being equal.

Fortunately, we have already condensed the available data from the most currently available Deer Program Report. We have selected for further detailing the top five WMAs for buck hunting based on the total buck harvests from those lands. It’s a darn good place to start.

Top Five Buck WMAs

1. Bienville WMA. This 26,136-acre area is located north of Morton in Bienville National Forest.

Its last reported buck harvest was 119, the largest yield since the 2007 season. Habitat conditions have been improving due to increased area management work. The average inside spread on 3½-year-old bucks was 13.4 inches with average main beams of 16.4 inches.

Mean conception dates for Bienville WMA are from Dec. 21 to Jan. 24. Watch the weather and monitor the rut activity to hunt the peak rut. Man-day use on this WMA was 3169 days. Twelve deer were taken for each man-day.

2. Sunflower WMA. The largest WMA in the state at 58,480 acres, it is near Rolling Fork. The buck harvest was 116. Average inside spreads were 14.4 inches with main beams of 17.4 inches for 3½-year-old bucks. The most bucks taken on Sunflower were aged at 3.5 years.

Sunflower is a wetlands area as well and is often considered an excellent area for waterfowl hunting. During duck season, deer hunters should expect to see and hear the duck hunters. This apparently has little to no impact on the deer hunting on this WMA. Man-day use was 7761 days, which could have been a lot of duck hunting as well as deer hunting.

3. Leaf River WMA. At nearly 40,000 acres, this WMA is big, too. It lies in Perry County within the Desoto National Forest. The buck harvest was 115 which was well over the 42 bucks taken back in the 2007-08 season. The 3 ½-year-old bucks averaged main beams of 14.7 inches.

Eighty-seven percent of the bucks taken met the antler criteria; youth hunters under age 16 could take any antlered buck. Leaf River’s habitat can be thick and tough to get through in areas. Its timberland is mostly pines with hardwood bottoms. The man-days use here was 7,552 total days, and the harvest rate was one buck per 363 acres.

4. Mahannah WMA. Located off Highway 61 north of Vicksburg, Mahannah’s acreage runs 12,675. The land is owned by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, but managed by the MDWFP. Deer hunting is by draw permit only, but it is worth the risk and wait. Usually there is a January archery hunt open to the public.

Buck harvest was 86 with a man-day use of 2,487 days. Average inside spreads went 14.8 inches with 18.1 inches average main beams on 3½-year-old bucks, making it very desirable to hunters.

“We put in for Mahannah deer permits every year; sometimes we get them, sometimes not, but it is a great place to hunt,” say brothers Jay and Ben Harper of Vicksburg.

The conception dates on Mahannah ran from Dec. 8 to Jan. 7. Buck harvest rates are up since the 2007-08 season, but man-day use is up, too. The main reason for this seems to be the ever increasing reputation for big bucks. Several have been taken on Mahannah over the past few years.

5. Copiah and Sandy Creek WMAs. These two WMAs tied for the same buck yields at 82 apiece. This is significant given the two areas are nowhere near each other — Copiah is located just south of Jackson and west of Hazlehurst, while Sandy Creek is in Adams County in the Homochitto National Forest.

Copiah’s land mass is 6,583 acres, with gently rolling wheat grass hills, scattered pines and hardwood stands in the bottoms. To look at it you would think it was perfect quail habitat.

By contrast Sandy Creek is 16,407 acres of tall pines and equally tall ridges with fast falling slopes into thick bottoms.

Man-day use on these areas were similar — 4,007 on Copiah and 4,050 on Sandy Creek. Copiah like Mahannah is slowly gaining a history of producing some very nice bucks.

Sandy Creek should show more use given its hunter base includes a lot of Louisiana deer hunters. Know that going in.

Acres per buck on Copiah as 80, but on Sandy Creek it was 200. Copiah is a good WMA to put a doe in the freezer as well.

Are there other WMAs worthy of a dedicated buck hunt? You bet.

As you further study the detailed area information from the Deer Program Report on the top five areas listed above, also be sure to check out Upper Sardis, Tallahala, Marion County, Chickasaw, Caney Creek, and O’Keefe WMAs. Of course, any of the 53 state WMAs could yield a record book buck any day. It is just a matter of pinpointing the right one to be hunting at on the right day.

Nightcrawlers are common earthworms that are found around the world. Rather than overspend for live nightcrawlers at a fishing supply store, you figured you’d try catching your own. Where can you find nightcrawlers to use as fishing bait?

To catch nightcrawlers, seek out a crop field or a garden with tilled soil. You can even check your own backyard. In daylight or nighttime, dig a few inches deep into the soil and it should be wriggling with live worms. That will especially be the case after it rains.

This guide to catching nightcrawlers will be chock full of information that any aspiring angler should keep handy. You’ll learn where to find nightcrawlers, how to get them out of the ground in large quantities, and how to keep them alive so you can use them as live bait later. Keep reading!

Finding Nightcrawlers – Where to Look

The Lumbricus terrestris or common earthworm-which is also known as the nightcrawler-may have originated in Western Europe, but today, the worms are anywhere and everywhere across the United States.

That’s why anglers find the prospect of catching their own nightcrawlers so appealing, as they don’t have to expend a lot of effort to track down the worms. Here are some places you can go nightcrawler hunting today.

Your Backyard

Why not start with the most convenient place you could possibly find nightcrawlers, right in your backyard?

Nightcrawlers live in loam soil, which contains 20 percent clay, 40 percent silt, and 40 percent sand. Most soil in the US is categorized as loam, but only you know what kind of soil you have around your property.

If your soil is drier and sandier than 40 percent, then you probably won’t be able to find worms in your yard. Also-although it goes without saying-if your home features asphalt or rocks rather than a dedicated yard, then you’ll also have to venture elsewhere for your nightcrawler hunting.

Just don’t start digging in your neighbor’s yard, as they’re not going to appreciate that!

Crop Fields

If you can’t find nightcrawlers right outback, you can always seek local crop fields. A crop field is a large agricultural area that usually features tilled soil.

Another feature of crop fields is dead debris such as old leaves that nightcrawlers can conveniently feast on from the safety of the tilled soil.

However, if you don’t know who the crop field landowner is, you won’t want to hunt for nightcrawlers. You could get in possible legal trouble for entering someone else’s property and technically defacing it. Ask for permission first or find yet another place to dig for nightcrawlers.

Gardens

Gardens are packed full of soil, and if that soil is loamy, then you already know nightcrawlers will be there.

As you work in your garden, you’ll want to dig strategically to avoid upsetting plants, flowers, and trees that are still growing. Try to replace the soil after making holes so your plants don’t tip over due to stability issues.

Parks

You can always find plenty of greenery at your local park. You know what we’re about to say, you can’t dig at a park without permission from the landowner or a parks and rec association at the very least.

That said, you can look under fallen trees or beneath rocks for nightcrawlers since you’re not damaging the soil. You don’t need permission for that.

Almost Anywhere After the Rain

If all the above methods sound like too much time and trouble, you don’t necessarily have to do any of it. You can always check the forecast for the next rainfall. Nightcrawlers come out in droves after the rain, especially if it rains during the evening.

You won’t have to look hard for them, as they’ll be nearly anywhere and everywhere. Check the sidewalks, the surface of the lawn or soil, and rocks and trees. You’ll see plenty of worms.

Fun fact: if you live in an area where rains are rarer, you can always trick the nightcrawlers into thinking it’s raining if you wait until dusk and water your lawn.

We recommend bringing some sawdust when you’re catching worms after the rain. The already-slippery insects will become even harder to grasp thanks to the moisture of the precipitation. Using sawdust gives you a better grip on the nightcrawlers.

Plus, the rumor is that that the worms don’t like the texture of the sawdust so they’re more eager to pop out of their holes.

How to Get Nightcrawlers Out of the Ground

Once you’ve seen at least one nightcrawler wriggling about, you can assume that more are in the area. Here are some of the avenues you can use to begin catching nightcrawlers by the dozen.

A Shovel and Bucket

The most old-fashioned method is using a gardening shovel and a bucket. The shovel is for digging into the loamy soil.

As we established earlier, you shouldn’t have to make inches-deep holes to find nightcrawlers.

By removing the top layer of the soil, you should see the worms wriggling. Pull them from the ground (more on this in a later section, so definitely check it out!) and then store them in a plastic bucket.

If you don’t have a bucket, then any similar container should work. The key is to choose a container with tall sides so the worms can’t easily crawl up and over. The container should also ideally have a carrying handle for easy transport.

In the bucket, add a bit of soil and worm food such as dead leaves. This will keep your nightcrawler alive until you get home.

Water

We already talked about this, but water is a very reliable way to get nightcrawlers to reveal themselves, especially if you’re struggling to find any worms.

Why do nightcrawlers like water so much? As worms, nightcrawlers usually stay under the soil where it’s dark and moist because there’s little risk of them drying out. They won’t poke their heads out in bright, sunny weather for that very reason.

When it rains, the worms can finally emerge from underneath the soil while staying nice and moist. The rain also accelerates a nightcrawler’s speed so it can cross greater distances.

As we mentioned earlier, watering your lawn at dusk means that by nightfall, the earthworms should be plentiful.

Worm Grunting

You can also try worm grunting, which is known as worm charming and worm fiddling. This activity is common among anglers who want to catch many nightcrawlers at once. It’s even a competitive activity!

First, you have to create vibrations in the soil. This will bring the worms nearer the surface. Then it’s a matter of catching the nightcrawlers.

Car Battery

If you don’t mind that your nightcrawlers are dead, then you can always electrocute them to the surface using a car battery.

This method is a little harsher than the ones we’ve discussed to this point, and if you do it, you should ensure that the landscape is clear of other living creatures (that you can perceive, anyway), especially those on or in the soil.

You’ll need jumper cables, metal rods, and your car battery. Please wear rubber-soled shoes to ensure your safety as you go about catching nightcrawlers like this.

Take two of the metal rods and insert them several feet into the ground, no deeper than three feet. Then attach your jumper cables to your car battery with the rubber grippers. Connect the other end of the jumper cable grippers to the affixed metal rods.

As electricity generates, the nightcrawlers will immediately spring to the surface to get away from the volts. You can catch them easily from there.

More Tips for Catching Nightcrawlers

Want even more tips to make you a nightcrawler-catching master? No problem! Here’s what we recommend.

Bring a Flashlight for Nighttime Catches

Nighttime is prime time for catching nightcrawlers. After all, these common earthworms are known as nightcrawlers for a reason. At night, when it’s usually cool, the worms will emerge to the surface of the soil. Nighttime is also a period when fewer predators abound.

You’ll need a flashlight to spot nightcrawlers on the ground. You can have a friend or partner carry the flashlight or you can bring it yourself. You can even use your smartphone flashlight, although not if you’re planning to hunt for a while. That’s a great way to drain your phone’s battery!

Headlamps Are Your Friend

Outside of flashlights, it’s a good idea to bring a headlamp as well. After all, once you find the nightcrawlers, how are you supposed to dig them up? You can’t hold the flashlight in one hand and dig with the other hand. It just doesn’t work.

Use Red Light

Nightcrawlers are adept at sensing the light. As soon as you shine a bright spotlight on a nightcrawler-such as from a flashlight or a smartphone-the worm will retreat underground.

To a nightcrawler, light = sunlight, and sunlight = danger, either from predators, drying out, or both.

Nightcrawlers are smart too, in that the one that senses the light isn’t the only worm to hide. Any other worms in the vicinity that might have been poking their heads up will also duck back down. You lose out on a lot of potential catches.

Using red light is the best way to mask the brightness of your light while still illuminating the yard. You can either buy a flashlight or headlamp with a red light or you can tape a piece of red cellophane over the light. You can even put cellophane on a smartphone flashlight.

Tread Lightly

Besides being able to sense light, nightcrawlers can detect vibrations caused by sound as well. If you usually have a heavy gait, it’s worth practicing quieter walking if you hope to be successful in your nightcrawler hunts.

We’re not saying you have to tip-toe here, but you do want to be as light on your feet as possible. If you’re not, the worms will sense you before you ever get close and you won’t see any.

The only exception to this is when it’s raining. It could be that the worms sense the vibrations of the rain falling to such an extent that your footfalls don’t stand out among that sound, but worms don’t react to heavy footsteps as much in the rain.

Wear Light Shoes

Even if you’re stealthy like a ninja, it’s still not a bad idea to wear light shoes when you’re digging for nightcrawlers. Ditch the combat boots, Timberlands, and heavy shoes like them. Wear house slippers (that you don’t mind getting muddy) or shoes with very light soles.

Skip the flip-flops though, as the flopping sound is not going to help you catch nightcrawlers.

Know When and How to Grab

As we said we would, we want to discuss is how to pull nightcrawlers out of the ground. To do so, you’ll have to get good at distinguishing the worm’s head from its rear. The head is what usually emerges first from the soil, which is a helpful hint.

The center of a nightcrawler’s body features a series of rings that allow the worm to have traction in the dirt. Then the other side of the worm is its tail.

When you see the nightcrawler emerge from its hole, grasp your hand around it and begin to pull up horizontally. Vertical pulling could cause you to tear the worm, and then it won’t be very good as fishing bait.

The body will be in the soil at an angle, so pull the nightcrawler at whatever angle it’s situated itself.

Remember to take your time when pulling and don’t use excessive force. Otherwise, you’ll kill the nightcrawler!

How to Keep Nightcrawlers Alive to Use as Live Fishing Bait

We’re assuming that you’re interested in keeping your nightcrawlers alive so you can eventually use them as fishing bait, right? Here’s how it’s done.

Move Your Nightcrawlers to a New Container

The container that will be the nightcrawler’s more permanent home should be full of loamy soil as well as worm food.

Dead debris like vegetables and grass as well as old coffee grounds (that are still moist) are recommended. The coffee grounds are easily ingestible for worms, so don’t be surprised if this is what they start with!

Refrigerate the Worms

Yes, that’s right, we’re telling you to put the nightcrawlers in the refrigerator. We know this sounds weird, but it’s part of maintaining the worms’ optimal temperature, which is between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

Keep the Soil Moist

Time will cause the soil to dry out, so every couple of days, you might have to add more water. You should only spill in a few drops at a time.

Add More Food

The nightcrawlers will eventually eat everything you give them, even if that takes a bit. While you’re checking the soil moisture levels, consider adding more food like coffee grounds or old leaves as well.

However, if there’s still food in the container, don’t feed the nightcrawlers yet. You could accidentally feed them too much, and then they’ll die.

If you continue doing the above, you could keep your nightcrawlers alive for weeks. Plan that fishing trip soon!

Final Thoughts

Nightcrawlers are a species of common earthworm that are prevalent throughout the country. You need only look in your backyard for nightcrawlers, although they’re common in crop fields, parks, and gardens as well.

Rainfall remains your most natural way of bringing out the greatest number of nightcrawlers, but you could always shock them out of the ground using a car battery and some metal poles if you don’t mind that your worms are dead.

Now that you know how to find, catch, handle, and keep nightcrawlers, you should never have to shop for live worm bait again!

300 Blackout Ammo has a lot going for it, right up to the point at which you try to take advantage of its subsonic prowess for tasks other than punching paper. Common subsonic loads, even if tipped with a fragile match bullet such as the ubiquitous 220-grain Sierra Matchking, plow 0.30-inch diameter holes straight through fleshy targets and keep on truckin’ right into the next inconveniently located piece of real estate.

We’ve tried bullets that in other applications are positively explosive. Hornady’s 208-grain A-Max, for example, fragments violently when shoved out the muzzle at even .308 Win velocities, but from a Blackout you might as well be using a DeWalt. Getting a .30-cal to expand reliably at around 1,000 feet per second requires a specialized projectile, and they’re not exactly inexpensive.

Being cheap bastards, in times past we experimented by cutting back the jacket tip on an SMK and then boring out the meplat, thinking that this would be enough to induce expansion. Great theory, sucks in practice. Gel testing confirmed that it performs no better than an unaltered bullet, so why waste the effort? Cutting to the chase, we rounded up a small selection of expanding subs.

Note there are a few more companies who offer bullets for you to roll your own (Cutting Edge, for example), but as work has displaced gentle-paced pursuits like reloading, we’d often rather pay in money than time.

If you decide that a subsonic 300 Blackout Ammo fills your requirements for a stealthy hog slayer, or you’ve settled on that caliber for home defense duties, then you might want to avail yourself of our buyer’s guide below.

300 Blackout Ammo Testing Protocol

All loads were tested for velocity using both 16- and 9-inch barreled weapons. A Remington 700, equipped with a Nightforce ATACR 4-16×42 and SilencerCo Omega was employed as our longer rifle, and it was this combo that we also used for accuracy and gel testing. Five-shot groups were shot at 50, rather than 100, yards as we felt this was a realistic distance for subsonic use. The shorty gun was our budget hog hammer — a franken AR built on a Gibbz side charging upper and equipped with a Maxim Defense PDW pistol brace. Note that all loads except the Fort Scott and Gorilla offerings were supersonic from the 16-inch barrel.

Velocity readings were taken using a Caldwell G2 chronograph, which has the useful ability to store data on your phone via Bluetooth. Chrono was set up 10 feet from the muzzle, ambient temp was 69 degrees at 2,100 feet elevation, and gel testing was performed using two, 16-inch Clear Ballistics gel blocks, placed end to end.

Fort Scott 190-grain SCS Brush Hog

Ever heard of these guys? Neither had we, until we walked into a gun store near San Antonio, Texas, where the counter jockeys assured us they were well regarded by local hog hunters. Intrigued, we bought a couple of boxes for testing. Unlike the rest of the projectiles in this test, these are non-expanding, relying for their wounding abilities on becoming unstable in media more dense than air. Gasp! The fabled M16 tumbling bullet!

Despite a healthy dose of skepticism, they turned in a decent performance, coming to rest after 180 degrees of flippage and 15.5 inches of penetration in bare gel, with the bullet’s base just barely under the back end of the block. Fort Scott seems to be using a set of dies that diverges from industry norms, which resulted in a misfire rate of around 50 percent in our bolt gun — the only sample to do so. On examining the case shoulder (which, in 300 Blackout, is even less significant than Chuck Schumer’s dick) it would appear that it’s both steeper and shorter than competitive brands, allowing the case just enough room to shift forward under firing pin impact. It ran fine in our AR, though.

Gorilla Ammo 205-Grain Silverback

Gorilla’s monolithic projectile features a gaping hollow point, which initiates pretty healthy expansion after about 3 inches of penetration in gel. One of the two loads achieving subsonic velocities from our 16-inch bolt gun, it’s mouse-fart quiet even in longer barrels. Not only did it retain all its weight after impact, but petals on the copper bullet remained sharp enough to nick careless fingers when pulling it from the gel block. Accuracy was plenty good for dispatching critters at subsonic ranges.

Hornady 190-grain Sub-X

Announced in December 2017 and released for sale three months later, Hornady added an expanding subsonic bullet to its existing five 300 Blackout ammo offerings. Built to their usual standards, the bullet features a red polymer tip to initiate expansion, a detail no doubt familiar to users of their Critical Duty line of pistol ammo. In our test rifle, it proved to be an accurate and consistent performer, and if a lone flyer were discounted, would’ve turned in a 0.36-inch group. Of the conventional jacket-and-core projectiles in this test, it was the only one not to separate. Note, however, that some polymer mags may have problems in presenting the blunt tip high enough to make it up the feed ramp in your favorite semi auto. Either use regular old GI versions or Magpul’s 300 BLK-specific offering.

hornady.com

Lehigh Defense 194-Grain Maximum Expansion

Lehigh’s wicked-looking solid copper bullets turned in an admirable performance, expanding as advertised and growing sharp, symmetrical talons when shot into gel. When dug out, they showed evidence that the fast twist barrels of our test guns would’ve caused additional tissue damage, as they screwed their way through the medium — in this case making three complete revolutions before coming to rest after shedding a petal. Those wanting additional penetration should consider Lehigh’s loading; it exceeds the FBI protocol, but if you encounter bigger hogs it affords a margin of safety on quartering shots.

Noveske / Nosler 220-Grain Ballistic Tip

Averaging 20-fps faster than the otherwise similar SSA load, this collaboration between two of Oregon’s most respected gun companies is unmistakable with its ominously dark finish. Accuracy was good enough for the task at hand, and the bullet core achieved 17 inches of penetration, after parting company with the remaining jacket around the 15-inch mark. About 30-grains worth of ballistic payload was shed in total, leaving a smoky-looking trail through our gel block as it threw off particles of lead and copper.

SSA 220-grain Ballistic Tip

Silver State Ammo was acquired by Nosler in 2013, and we suspect that both this load and the Noveske/Nosler above use the same bullet, with a different polymer tip and coating. Group size was almost identical to the Nosler load, and both bullets separated from their remaining jackets after 12 to 14 inches of penetration in bare gel. As this meets the FBI requirements, we don’t see this as a negative for defensive use, because both resulting fragments penetrate sufficiently to reach vital organs.

Photos by Kenda Lenseigne

More on 300 Blackout

• The Curious Origin Story of 300 Blackout
• New in 2021: Magpul’s 300 Blackout 20-round PMags.
• Radical Firearms Integrally Suppressed 300 Blackout SBR at SOFIC.
• 300 Blackout Buyer’s Guide.
• 300 Blackout vs 556: More than a Matter of Distance.

Evolution really likes crabs.

That’s not entirely true. Evolution doesn’t “like” anything. It’s just a natural process that develops and changes species. It doesn’t have likes or dislikes.

But here’s what’s kinda crazy — evolution keeps making crabs, and scientists don’t know why. Seriously.

For decades, scientists have been aware of carcinization, the natural phenomenon of organisms evolving into crabs or crab-like creatures.

According to an expert at Florida International University, “Carcinization can be defined as the evolutionary process leading to the crab-like form.”

Evolutionary biologists aren’t sure why carcinization occurs, but some say it might be caused by the crab’s ability to survive. The crab-like form might have features that make it more resilient than other organisms, making it more likely to climb the evolutionary tree.

No matter why they exist, Earth is home to a bunch of crabs (about 5,000 unique species to be exact).

With so many crabs, it can be hard to pinpoint the most expensive varieties. Some are common foods, others are protected and face extinction due to habitat loss. With this list, we’ll look at the most expensive crabs you could actually buy. Keep reading to learn more!

8. The Blue King Crab

photo source: adn.com

First up is the elusive blue king crab. The creature is often found near the chilly Diomede Islands, a small region between Alaska and mainland Russia.

Blue king crabs eat worms, small fish, algae, and even other crabs! Beyond the Diomede Islands, these blue creatures live in cold waters surrounding Hokkaido, Japan, and the Sea of Okhotsk.

Blue king crab prices are hard to nail down, but you could easily spend about $30 on one of these animals. The species is relatively rare and not as popular for eating as the Alaskan king crab. The species’ population is also spread pretty thin, with small pockets living scattered across the globe.

Warming oceans could be causing the crabs’ strange distribution. The animal evolved to live in cold water, so changing temperatures can isolate them in colder remote regions.

All those factors make the blue king crab hard to find and pretty expensive.

Did you know?

The Alaska Department of Fish and Game says the blue king crab population is quite low, so commercial fishing companies can’t catch them. The Department says there aren’t any direct threats causing the risk of extinction, but the species’ small population is concerning.

7. Coconut Crabs

photo source: animals.howstuffworks.com

The massive coconut crab is just that: massive. These huge creatures are about 40 inches long and weigh 10 pounds, making them some of the biggest crabs on this list.

When they’re young, the nocturnal coconut crab lives in dense vegetation or piles of fallen coconuts to avoid the sun.

As they get older, the crabs usually make burrows among tree roots and logs. These damp homes keep the animals safe from the heat until they head out for food at nightfall.

As scavengers, coconut crabs eat the shells of other crabs to get their daily dose of calcium. They also enjoy fallen fruit and dead animals found near their beachfront homes. Some even eat birds!

Sadly, coconut crabs are threatened by habitat destruction and over-harvesting. The species was officially labeled “vulnerable” by the IUCN, and experts are worried about their future. As a result, these animals can be hard to find and very expensive.

Did you know?

Female coconut crabs usually choose to mate with males that are the same size or bigger than themselves.

6. The Dungeness Crab

photo source: sfgate.com

The Dungeness crab, a popular meal in the San Francisco Bay Area, is known for its mild taste and juicy texture. The variety is a common choice for crab cakes, but its steep price tag is a little hard to swallow.

Final costs depend on the crab and its seller, but you could easily spend $40 on one of these creatures. Others go for closer to $45 per pound. For a typical 2-pound crab, you’re looking at a $90 dinner.

Did you know?

The Dungeness crab lives along sandy ocean floors near the coast of Alaska. It can also be found down in Magdalena Bay, Mexico, and throughout California’s coastal waters.

5. Stone Crabs

photo source: commons.wikimedia.org

Stone crabs are often found along the coasts of North Carolina and Florida. The variety is a favorite among restaurants, many of which charge upwards of $70 for a small plate of stone crab claws.

Stone crab claw harvesting is a pretty unique process. Fishers catch the animals in underwater traps, then break off their claws and throw the rest back to the waves. Crabs can regenerate limbs, so the animal will regrow its missing claws over time.

Florida is one of the biggest producers of stone crab claws. The state regulates harvesting by requiring each claw to be at least 2 ⅞ inches long before its removed. Some scientists are concerned about claw harvesting despite this rule.

A study by the state of Florida found that as much as 82% of crabs die when both claws are removed and up to 60% die when one claw is removed. Those high death rates make some worry about sustaining healthy stone crab populations.

Did you know?

Stone crab claws have to be boiled and put on ice soon after removal, otherwise they go bad.

4. The Alaskan Red King Crab

photo source: cnbc.com

Coming in at number four is the Alaskan red king crab, a large species that can live up to about 30 years. Males can grow up to about 24 pounds and have legs up to 5 feet long.

Red king crabs live throughout the coastal waters of Japan, British Columbia, the Bering Sea, Alaska, and many other regions — but the most expensive variety comes from Alaska.

A 2-pound, wild-caught Alaskan red king crab can sell for up to $180!

Did you know?

Like other crabs, this variety is omnivorous. The species enjoys a whole range of dead and decaying organisms along the ocean floor, including fish, plants, and more.

3. Crystal Crabs

photo source: oceanictrading.com.au

The crystal crab is one of the most popular varieties among high-end chefs. The species has a thin shell and yields large portions of meat, making it a popular choice for restaurants.

Crystal crabs only live along the western coast of Australia. As deep-sea crabs, the species can be tricky to catch, making it more expensive. Although the variety isn’t endangered, crystal crabs’ isolated population boosts prices too.

A single crystal crab can sell for as much as $300, making it the third most expensive crab on the planet.

Did you know?

Unlike other species, crystal crabs remain white after being cooked.

2. The Giant Spider Crab

photo source: christies.com

The horrifyingly huge spider crab lurks along the seafloor near Japan. Living up to 100 years, the massive creature can grow legs over 12 feet long and weigh more than 40 pounds!

Despite their monster-like appearance, giant spider crabs are actually quite tame. The animal moves slowly along the ocean floor, snacking on dead organisms as it moves through the water.

Giant spider crabs aren’t commonly fished because they live so deep under the waves. Still, the creatures are a delicacy in Japan. If they aren’t eaten, the species might be preserved and presented as a unique collector’s item — like this taxidermied specimen sold in 2014. The huge creature was auctioned for about $12,000!

Did you know?

Giant spider crabs often live 50 meters below the ocean surface.

1. Snow Crabs

photo source: cnbc.com

Snow crabs are the most expensive crabs.

Snow crabs are mainly found along parts of Greenland, Eastern Canada, Alaska, and Japan. You could easily spend several hundred dollars on these animals regardless of their origin, but Japanese snow crabs can be particularly expensive.

Why? In Japan, snow crab fishing season runs from November to early March. Traditionally, buying the first caught crab is a status symbol. People are willing to spend thousands to get their hands on the first crab of the season. One sold for $18,000 in 2018, while another earned a jaw-dropping $46,000 in 2019.

Tetsuji Hamashita purchased the record-setting crab, saying, “I know it’s extreme. But it’s the custom.”

Did you know?

Snow crabs live among the muddy bottoms of cold ocean waters. The creatures feed on worms, fish, shrimp, and other small organisms.