This article is based on a Japanese article and has been machine translated.

Sea bass fishing is fishing for sea bass (Japanese sea bass) using a variety of lures.

The most basic of these lures are called minnows, which resemble small fish.

Since minnows are the most basic lure, there are so many types that it is difficult to choose the right one.

In this article, we’ll take a closer look at minnows and introduce six recommended products!

If you’re not sure which minnow to choose, please try one of these.

Introduction to the characteristics and usage of minnows

First, let’s take a look at the characteristics of minnows and how to use them.

Before choosing a minnow, it is a good idea to first learn more about minnows.

A minnow is a lure that resembles a small fish.

Minnows are one of the many types of lures, and their main characteristic is that they resemble small fish.

Not only does it look like a real fish, but it also swims just like a real fish.

Therefore, it has the ability to catch sea bass in areas where there are many small fish that serve as bait for sea bass, as well as in areas where there are not so many.

It is also easy to use, and the basic operation is just to reel it in.

Sometimes you need to give it a little action, but basically just reeling it in is enough to catch fish, so it is easy to use even for beginners.

As you can see, the minnow is one of the most basic of lures, yet easy to handle, and is quite suitable for beginners.

Minnows are great for any situation.

I mentioned above that minnows work well both in areas with and without small fish as bait.

In fact, minnows have the power to catch sea bass anytime and anywhere, regardless of where, when or when they are used.

Therefore, it is best to use it for the first cast at the point where you are going for the first time or when you are not sure if you can catch fish.

You can also determine whether to use more intense or natural lures based on the reaction of the sea bass to the minnow.

In other words, minnows are the standard for all lures and are essential for sea bass fishing.

This is the first lure you should buy if you are a beginner in sea bass fishing.

Keep a few different types of minnows on hand.

And there are three types of minnows: the floating type that floats when stopped, the sinking type that sinks, and the suspending type that stops on the spot.

Each of these three types of minnows has its own strengths in certain situations and times of the year, and it is recommended to have more than one type available if possible.

However, if you can only afford one of them, we recommend the floating type.

The floating type is a type of minnow that dives deep when reeling in and rises to the surface when stopped.

The floating type is the easiest type to catch for beginners because the action of stopping and floating often attracts sea bass.

For this reason, we have picked up recommended minnows, focusing on the floating type.

Choose one of these minnows and you’re good to go! 6 Recommended Minnows

Here are six types of minnows for seabass fishing that we actually recommend.

Recommendation 1: Shimano Exsence Silent Assassin 140F AR-C

The X-Sense Silent Assassin 140FAR-C is a minnow from the sea bass fishing lure series sold by Shimano.

The action and size of the lure are easy to handle, making it suitable for beginners who are new to lures.

It features Shimano’s original center of gravity shifting system called AR-C, which gives it more flying distance than other minnows of the same size.

It will definitely be very useful when sea bass are bouncing in the distance.

The color lineup includes models that glow like actual fish scales.

Recommendation 2: Daiwa Seabass Hunter Z

The Seabass Hunter Z is a great minnow for those who are just starting out in fishing and have never handled a lure before.

The lineup includes two of the most frequently used and easy to handle sizes, 9cm and 12cm.

Its swimming action is that of an orthodox minnow, so just reeling it in is enough to appeal to sea bass.

Another major attraction of this minnow is its price, which is less than 1000 yen.

Most other minnows cost around 1500 yen, so this price is quite reasonable.

You may want to buy more than one of several colors.

Recommendation 3: Daiwa Shoreline Shiner Z Set Upper 125S-DR

The Shoreline Shiner Z Set Upper is one of the most popular minnows among the many sea bass fishing minnows.

Of course, they are popular because they can be fished, and even beginners can significantly improve their chances of catching fish.

And these minnows sink slowly when stopped, a type called slow sinking.

It is recommended to use it when you cannot catch fish easily with floating type minnows or when you are targeting deep water.

It can be used in quite a wide range of situations because it can also provide enough distance.

Be sure to purchase these along with the floating minnows.

Recommendation 4: Megabass ONETEN Jr.

SW is a lure that was originally popular as a minnow for bass fishing, but was developed for the salt lure game.

It has enough flying distance as a lure for sea bass fishing, so it can be used to attack a wide range of distant points.

It is a minnow that is good at exploring efficiently when you don’t know the conditions of the day at the fishing spot.

It is also attractive because it has a quick darting action when the rod is lightly agitated.

The darting action stimulates the predatory instinct of sea bass lured by the natural action.

Recommendation 5: Megabass X-80SW

The X-80SW is a recommended lure for those who are looking for a minnow with power that moves greatly and appeals to a wide range of people.

The body is larger than the minnows we have introduced so far, allowing it to fly a considerable distance.

When you just reel it in, it swims in a big left-right motion called wobbling.

There are very few minnows that can make this wobbling motion as large as this minnow, so it will be able to make sea bass that do not respond to other minnows respond.

And the type is slow sinking, which enables you to keep attacking the same depth steadily.

Recommendation 6: Jackall Big Backer Gulf Minnow

The Big Bucker Gulf Minnow is a minnow from the Big Bucker salt game lure series sold by Jackal.

This product was originally developed to target bluefish such as yellowtails, but it is also very useful when targeting sea bass.

It has a solid weight of 27g, so it can be used for long-distance casting in large rivers and offshore embankments.

Of course, when you are targeting sea bass, you may also catch bluefish such as yellowtails, and the durability of the lure is such that it can handle such situations without problems.

If you want to fish for sea bass and other big fish that can be caught in the ocean, please consider purchasing this product.

If you want to go sea bass fishing, buy a minnow first!

Minnows are an essential lure for sea bass fishing and should be the first lure you purchase if you are a beginner.

Since these lures can actually catch sea bass, many types are sold by various manufacturers.

Among them, the six minnows introduced here are easy to handle and are recommended for beginners, so please refer to them.

Achieving proper ergonomics and comfort when shooting a rifle is crucial for accuracy and overall shooting experience. One important measurement to consider is the rifle length of pull. Determining the correct length of pull ensures that the rifle fits your body size and shooting style. In this comprehensive guide, we will walk you through the step by step process of measuring the rifle length of pull accurately. Whether you are an advanced shooter or a beginner, understanding this measurement will help you achieve optimal shooting posture and control. So, let’s dive in and learn how to measure the rifle length of pull effectively.

Understanding Rifle Length of Pull

Understanding the concept of the rifle length of pull is important for every shooter. The length of pull refers to the distance from the trigger to the butt plate or end of the stock, and it plays a crucial role in achieving proper shooting mechanics and ergonomics.

One of the primary reasons why the length of pull is important is its impact on maintaining a consistent sight picture. When the length of pull is too long or too short, it can affect the alignment of your eye with the rifle’s sights or scope. A proper length of pull allows you to position your eye comfortably and consistently behind the sights. Ensuring proper sight alignment and improved accuracy.

Additionally, the length of pull influences your ability to control recoil effectively. When the length of pull is too long, it can cause the rifle to kick back forcefully into your shoulder, leading to discomfort and potential loss of control. On the other hand, if the length of pull is too short, you may experience excessive muzzle rise, making it difficult to recover quickly for follow up shots. By determining the correct length of pull, you can achieve better recoil management, enabling faster target reacquisition and improved shooting performance.

Achieving a Comfortable Shooting Position with Length of Pull

Moreover, achieving a comfortable shooting position is vital for maintaining stability and accuracy. A proper length of pull allows you to position your body in a natural and balanced posture, reducing muscle tension and fatigue during extended shooting sessions. When the rifle fits you correctly, it enhances your ability to hold the firearm steady and execute smooth trigger pulls. This, in turn, improves your shooting consistency and overall accuracy.

Understanding the significance of the rifle length of pull highlights its impact on your shooting experience. A well fitted rifle ensures better alignment of your eye with the sights or scope, improved recoil control, and enhanced shooting comfort. To achieve the optimal length of pull for your rifle, it is important to consider factors such as your body size, shooting style, and personal preferences. By measuring and adjusting the length of pull, you can customize your rifle to fit your individual needs, leading to improved shooting mechanics and increased shooting satisfaction.

Tools and Materials Needed to Measure Length of Pull

Before starting on the process of measuring the rifle length of pull, it’s important to gather the required tools and materials. Having these items at hand will ensure accurate measurements and enable you to make any necessary adjustments for optimal fit and comfort. Here are the tools you will need:

• Measuring Tape:

A measuring tape with both metric and imperial units is ideal for precise measurements. Choose a tape that is long enough to span the distance from the trigger to the butt plate or end of the stock.

• Non-Stretchable String or Cable:

This is an alternative to a measuring tape and can be used to measure the length of pull. Ensure that the string or cable is strong and doesn’t stretch when tension is applied.

• Marker or Tape:

You will need a marker or tape to mark the reference point on the rifle. This will serve as a consistent starting point for accurate measurements.

By having these tools ready, you will be fully prepared to measure the length of pull on your rifle accurately. As well as proceed with any necessary adjustments to achieve the ideal fit and comfort for your shooting needs.

Measuring the Rifle Length of Pull

Now that you have gathered the necessary tools and materials, it’s time to dive into the step by step process of measuring the rifle length of pull. Each stage will be explained in detail to ensure accurate and reliable measurements. Let’s begin:

• Preparing the Rifle:

Before starting the measurement process, it is crucial to ensure that the rifle is unloaded and in a safe condition. Remove any ammunition from the chamber and magazine, and confirm that the firearm is completely empty. Treat every firearm with the utmost respect for safety.

• Establishing a Reference Point:

Identify a reference point on the rifle that will serve as a consistent starting point for your measurements. The center of the trigger is a commonly used reference point. Using a marker or tape, mark this reference point clearly for future reference.

• Positioning the Rifle:

To maintain consistency throughout the measurement process, it is important to adopt the correct shooting posture and positioning. Assume a comfortable shooting stance with proper grip and shoulder placement. Ensure that the rifle is shouldered firmly and consistently for accurate measurements.

• Measuring the Length of Pull:

Using either the measuring tape or non stretchable string, proceed to measure the distance from the reference point (center of the trigger) to the butt plate or the end of the stock. Make sure to keep the measuring tape or string taut for precise measurements. Take note of the measurement in inches or centimeters, depending on the units used by your measuring tool.

• Analyzing the Measurement:

Once you have obtained the measurement, it is important to interpret its implications for your shooting comfort and ergonomics. A length of pull that is too short may result in a cramped shooting position and limited control. While a length of pull that is too long may lead to a stretched out posture and decreased stability. Analyze the measurement in the context of your body size, shooting style, and personal preferences. This is to determine if any adjustments are necessary.

By following these steps, you will be able to accurately measure the rifle length of pull. Remember that achieving the proper length of pull is crucial for optimal shooting comfort, control, and accuracy.

Making Adjustments to the Length of Pull

After measuring the rifle length of pull, you may find that adjustments are necessary to achieve the ideal fit for your body size and shooting style. In this section, we will explore various techniques that can be employed to modify the length of pull. It is important to note that these adjustments should be done with caution. And when in doubt, it is recommended to seek professional help or consult with experienced shooters or gunsmiths to ensure proper adjustments without compromising safety or functionality. Here are some common techniques:

• Adding or Removing Spacers:

Many rifles have adjustable stocks that allow the addition or removal of spacers between the stock and the butt plate. Adding spacers increases the length of pull, while taking them off reduces it. By adjusting the number of spacers, you can fine tune the length of pull to suit your preferences.

• Adjusting the Buttplate:

Adjustable butt plates on certain rifles allow you to move them horizontally or vertically. These features enable you to change the length of pull. These adjustments can be made using screws or other mechanisms provided by the manufacturer. It is important to refer to the rifle’s user manual. Or consult with a professional to understand how to make these adjustments properly.

• Considering Aftermarket Stocks:

If the existing stock does not allow for sufficient adjustment or if you prefer a different stock design, consider investing in an aftermarket stock. Aftermarket stocks offer a wider range of customization options, including adjustable length of pull, ergonomic features, and different materials. Research and choose a manufacturer that offers stocks compatible with your rifle model.

When making adjustments to the length of pull, it is essential to prioritize safety and functionality. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines when making modifications. Always ensure that the rifle remains in a safe and working condition. Additionally, seek the advice of professionals or experienced shooters who can provide valuable insights based on their expertise.

Remember, the goal of adjusting the length of pull is to achieve a comfortable and natural shooting position. This allows for proper sight alignment, recoil control, and overall shooting performance. Experiment with different adjustments and configurations while considering your individual preferences and shooting needs.

Additional Considerations for Length of Pull

When it comes to the rifle length of pull, there are several more considerations that should be taken into account. These factors can greatly influence the ideal length of pull for an individual shooter. Let’s explore these considerations in more detail:

• Shooting Applications:

Different shooting applications, such as hunting, target shooting, or competitive shooting, may require varying lengths of pull. For example, hunters who frequently shoot from different positions or in dense brush may prefer a shorter length of pull for better maneuverability. Target shooters, on the other hand, may prioritize a longer length of pull to achieve a more stable shooting platform. Consider the specific shooting application and how it may impact your length of pull preference.

• Personal Preferences:

Each shooter has unique preferences when it comes to rifle fit and comfort. Some individuals may feel more comfortable with a slightly shorter length of pull, while others may prefer a longer length. It’s important to take personal preferences into account when determining the ideal length of pull for yourself. Experiment with different lengths and observe how they affect your shooting experience and overall comfort.

• Physical Limitations:

Individuals with physical limitations, such as limited mobility, arm length, or shoulder issues, may require specific adjustments to the length of pull. It’s essential to consider any physical limitations you may have and how they might impact your shooting mechanics and comfort. Making appropriate modifications to the length of pull can help accommodate these limitations and ensure a more enjoyable shooting experience.

• Ergonomics and Body Size:

The ergonomics of the rifle and the shooter’s body size are crucial factors in determining the ideal length of pull. A shooter with a larger frame may require a longer length of pull to achieve proper alignment and stability, while a shooter with a smaller frame may need a shorter length. Consider your body size, including your arm length and shoulder width, when determining the ideal length of pull for your rifle.

By taking these considerations into account, you can better understand the broader context and individual nuances associated with measuring and adjusting the rifle length of pull. Remember, the goal is to find a length of pull that maximizes comfort, stability, and shooting performance for your specific needs.

Wrap Up

Throughout this guide, we have explored the concept of rifle length of pull and its importance in shooting mechanics. We have discussed the step by step process of measuring the length of pull, including preparing the rifle, establishing a reference point, positioning the rifle, and accurately measuring the distance. We have also delved into the potential need for adjustments based on the measurement results, covering techniques such as adding or removing spacers, adjusting the butt plate, or considering aftermarket stocks. Additionally, we have highlighted the significance of considering shooting applications, personal preferences, and physical limitations when determining the ideal length of pull.

By achieving the correct length of pull, you can experience enhanced shooting comfort, improved control over the firearm, and increased shooting accuracy. A proper length of pull allows you to maintain a consistent sight picture, effectively manage recoil, and achieve a comfortable shooting position. It is a fundamental aspect of rifle fit that should not be overlooked.

However, it’s important to remember that each shooter is unique, and personal preferences may vary. What works for one individual may not necessarily work for another. It is essential to experiment, seek professional guidance when needed, and ultimately find the length of pull that feels most comfortable and natural for you.

In conclusion, understanding and measuring the rifle length of pull is an essential step in optimizing your shooting experience. By following the steps outlined in this guide and considering the various factors discussed, you can achieve a well fitted rifle that promotes better shooting mechanics, comfort, and overall accuracy.

Happy shooting!

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By Jeff Johnston

My first gun was a Stevens 20-ga. single shot. It kicked the hell out of me and of course, was only good for one shot, so if I missed, I was screwed.

I was screwed a lot.

A few years after I proved to my father that my flinch was waning and I wasn’t a homicidal maniac, I received an 1100 semi-auto. It was superior in every way: most notably it was fun to shoot, and I could still kill a duck even after whiffing the first couple shots.

Now, don’t get me wrong: I think this “one shot one kill” sniper movie mantra is fantastic-until you blow your one shot … then it sucks. To me it seems downright stupid. You tell me what’s best: A: one-shot, no-kill, or B: two shots one kill? Better yet, three shots, five kills if you line ’em up right.

And that’s why my go-to rifle is a Browning BAR MK3 DBM. First produced in 1918 by John Browning, the original BAR (Browning Automatic Rifle) was good enough for our grandfathers to kill commies by the trench full, so you better believe it’s hell on deer, hogs, bears, and anything else that needs killin’. For driven hunts where the critters hightail it like fleeing Frenchmen, there’s nothing finer.

But make no mistake, today’s BAR is a longshot from your hero grandpappy’s. The new MK3 DBM is a synthetic stocked, 10-round detachable box magazine hunting/pseudo-battle rifle that Pelosi and co. would love to ban if they had any clue how badass it actually is. This modern Japanese-made (Miroku) boomstick handles like a A5 shotgun with its snappy 18-inch fluted pipe and grippy furniture.

I’ll admit the 10-round magazine is perhaps overkill for most hunting situations, but I do like it for one specific scenario: for shooting as many wild pigs as possible in one ambush. Quite often I’ll unleash one-shot that drops the biggest boar, then I’ll pull to the next hog that’s now hauling so fast that it’s rather like shooting a clay pigeon from station no 6. If I can kill two hogs in 3 or 4 quick shots with the BAR I’m doing good. With a bolt gun, I’d have no chance.

For deer hunting, I like the idea of having a quick backup shot, need it or not. Personally, I feel this gun handles and hunts better than any AR-10 I’ve ever used.

The thing is, the BAR’s short stroke gas piston system, legit (meaning well-fitting and practical) buttstock, and 7.6-pound heft make it the lightest-recoiling rifle out there, so much that when chambered in a sweet shooter like .308 Win. I can often see impact through the scope. If you can email me the name of a handier, easier shooting and more deadly all-around rifle, I’ll pick up your next bar tab and say thanks.

Historically bolt-action snobs have offered up three reasons against semi-auto rifles. The first is a nostalgic love affair with a man named Jack O’Connor and his love affair with his Winchester Model 70. Yes, it’s a love triangle and it’s weird, but it offers no explanation why a BAR wouldn’t have also killed sheep just as dead.

Then there are those who say semiautos are inherently unreliable. To that, I say remember the M1 Garand? What about a Benelli M2? A Glock? Yea those POSs hardly ever work. If kept clean, slick, and stoked with full power-loads-none of this reduced-recoil crap-a BAR is as reliable as you’ll ever need for hunting. But even if you lived in the Panamanian jungle for three months straight, shot every day, and had no access to WD-40, I’d still bet that if you pulled the trigger the gun will fire that first chambered round, and I’d be right 100 out of 100 times. And it’ll fire the 2nd and 3rd rounds about 99 percent of the time.

“But you can’t hit a U-Haul truck at 50 yards with one,” say others. Oh yea? When’s the last time you shot a new BAR? Most of them are 1.25- to 1.5-inch rifles out of the box with any ammo, and with a little experimentation to find what it prefers, plenty are sub-inchers.

But I’m not here to sell guns for Browning. I just happen to love this rifle. If I have one complaint (more of a wish, really) it would be this: because of the gas system, most do not respond well if fitted with a suppressor, and I love suppressors for hunting. But that’s about it. I love how the gun handles, that it’s completely impervious to the elements with its synthetic/matte black finish and that its receiver is pre-fitted with Picatinny rails so scope mounting is a snap. Oh yea, that and it holds 10 rounds of critter-killin .308.

For those rare times when I’m feeling like Tom Beringer in the movie Sniper and go for one shot, one kill, I just load one round. But for all other times (i.e. always) I stack the mag to the gills and feel much better about my chances in the real world.

Around $1500 ; browning.com

If you’re looking for a one stop shop to answer all things billfish, you’ve come to the right spot. Fishing for these beasts of the deep is among the most exciting things you can do on water.

While they may look similar to the untrained eye, there are a few major differences between these species that make all the difference when trying to hook one up. Below, we share everything you need to know when putting these species head to head- whether marlin vs swordfish or sailfish vs marlin, we’ve got you covered.

A beautiful sailfish from Captain Travis’ Cancun sailfish fishing trip.

Marlin vs Swordfish vs Sailfish: What is a billfish?

Marlin, Swordfish, and Sailfish are all Billfish

Up close and personal with a blue marlin from Captain Jim’s Cabo San Lucas marlin fishing trip

Billfish are some of the most advanced species on the planet. Highly migratory, billfish spend their lives in a constant state of movement, making their way from to tropical breeding grounds in the winter, and back to subtropical feeding grounds in the summer. They are located in every ocean, and some have even been tracked swimming across the entire Atlantic.

All billfish, whether swordfish vs marlin vs sailfish, have the iconic “sword” coming off the front of their body. Also called a rostrum, they use it to slice and stun their prey, making for an easy snack when they circle back around to finish the job. All billfish have advanced swim bladders that allow them to change depths rapidly without exerting a ton of energy. Some species like swordfish frequent depths around 1,500 feet deep during the day time, so it’s important have a good knowledge of the water column when fishing for them.

Where can I catch billfish?

All billfish reside in deep water. A good place to start is close to the edge of the continental shelf – the place where the relatively shallow water around land drops off into the deep blue abyss of the open ocean.

They frequent the continental shelf drop-off where ocean currents upwell nutrient rich water. These areas contain high concentrations of baitfish, and the billfish are all over them. You can also find them closer to shore around underwater seamounts and other seafloor features that attract schooling baitfish.

The migration patterns of billfish rely greatly on water temperatures. They’re able to anticipate the seasons and make the move to better feeding and breeding grounds depending on the time of year. Based on location, season, and proximity to ocean currents lets experienced billfish anglers predict their location with sometimes pinpoint accuracy.

A “grander” blue marlin caught in the Gulf of Mexico far offshore from Matagorda on Captain Clayton’s overnight fishing trip

What are the differences between Marlin vs Sailfish vs Swordfish?

Understanding the differences between these apex pelagic ocean predators is the key to knowing how to catch them. While they’re all relatively similar in appearance, the behavior is often their most defining feature.

Marlin vs Sailfish vs Swordfish

Marlin

A gorgeous Kona, Hawaii blue marlin caught on Captain Shawn’s sportsman’s trip

Marlin are widely regarded as the most prized gamefish species in the ocean. The largest species is the black marlin that resides in the Pacific and Indian Oceans, and can reach lengths of 15 feet and weigh over 1500 pounds. In the Atlantic, blue marlin are king, reaching lengths up to 13 feet and weighing over 1300 pounds.

The main defining features of a marlin is its dorsal fin. The fin is smaller than the other species of billfish, and connects to the spine along a soft ridge. Their bills are often shorter and more rounded than the bill of a swordfish or a sailfish.

Fishing for marlin generally means taking a boat ride out to the continental shelf or beyond. In some locations like Cabo and Hawaii, this could be a short boat ride. In other places like Texas, this could mean an overnight trip.

The best marlin lures are those that create a lot of disturbance in the water when trolling. This typically takes form of a large plastic bulb with a silicon or rubber skirt like a squid’s tentacles. Marlin are highly aggressive predators, and even the vibration and noise from the boat can attract them to your lure.

Swordfish vs Marlin vs Sailfish

Swordfish

Swordfish are another highly sought after gamefish from the depths. They are easily identified by their dorsal fin, which protrudes up from their spine almost like a shark’s. Their bill is also the longest in proportion to their body out of the other billfish.

Swordfish can reach lengths of 15 feet, and weigh over 1,400 pounds. They can tolerate a much larger temperature range than the other billfish, allowing them to dive to depths of 10,000 feet under the ocean’s surface.

Swordfish descend much deeper than other billfish species, often spending their days in waters around 1800 feet, and ascending into shallow water to feed during the night. If targeting swordfish during the day, a common technique is “deep dropping”. Deep dropping for swordfish can be done on conventional heavy tackle, using a variety of squid-like lures, but the use of electric reels has been growing in recent years. Deep dropping involves dropping your lure down to extraordinary depths, and the assistance of an electric reel helps a lot when reeling in thousands of feet of line.

Sailfish vs Swordfish vs Marlin

Sailfish

Sailfish are generally considered the most accessible of the billfish species, depending on your location. If the ride out to the continental shelf is too long, you can target sailfish a bit closer to shore. This is a main difference in blue marlin vs sailfish for example: blue marlin are usually found much further offshore.

They are characterized by a large dorsal “sail” that runs the entire length of their back. The swordfish is the only billfish that’s been observed hunting in groups, using their large sails and bills to herd prey into a “bait ball”. They then take turns darting in and out of the ball, scooping up the bait stunned by the bills of the other sailfish.

Catching sailfish is mostly done in the same manner as marlin fishing. The vibration of trolling plugs behind the boat mimics the disturbance of injured prey, and the sails attack them ferociously. Another one-of-a-kind technique is kite fishing. A kite is attached to a reel or an outrigger and released behind the boat. A lure (bait or artificial) is rigged to the kite and skates along the surface of the water mimicking a sailfish’s favorite snack – a flying fish. Once the sail bites, the line disconnects from the kite, and you’re ready to start reeling.

Looking for a swordfish, sailfish, or marlin fishing trip?

A trophy Louisiana swordfish caught on Captain Chandler’s Venice trophy hunt trip

Experienced guides have all the gear and experience you need to catch the billfish trophy of a lifetime. A good rule of thumb for gauging the possibility for catching billfish on a charter is how far offshore you’re going, the time of year, and location. If you’re looking to plan a billfish trip, contact us and we can recommend the best location and guide for the season.

With the popularity these days of cartridges for long-range this and long-range that, it’s surprising the .300 Blackout has become one of the more popular rifle cartridges since its commercial introduction in 2010. Timing may have played a hand in the Blackout’s acceptance, as it was introduced by Advanced Armament Corporation (AAC) and its sister company, Remington, when the trend of tactical shooting started to build. The Blackout, though, has many positive attributes. For one, the short cartridge fits in any gun design that accepts the .223/5.56, from single-shot handguns and compact bolt-action rifles to autoloading carbines, where it has been most successful. The Blackout shoots the complete range of .30-caliber bullets – from light bullets acceptably fast for hunting to 200-grain and heavier bullets plodding along at subsonic velocities. The Blackout’s story goes back much farther than 2010. AAC had been working on a military cartridge when it was bought by Remington, backed by the Freedom Group, in 2009. The following year AAC and Remington introduced the .300 Blackout. That year I toured the Remington ammunition plant in Lonake, Arkansas, mainly to observe the production of shotshells. At the nearby Remington shooting range, a couple of Remington engineers uncased an AR-15 and showed around the cartridge for which it was chambered. “It’s the .300 Blackout,” they said. “It’s the .300 Whisper,” I replied.

The Blackout is indeed the .300 Whisper designed by J.D. Jones in 1992 by necking up .221 Fireball cases to accept .30-caliber bullets. The only difference between the Blackout and Whisper is Blackout chambers have a slightly longer leade. Jones states on his website (sskindustries.com) that the “Whisper series of cartridges was developed as specific military, police, competition and recreational cartridges . . . ” The website also states, “A Whisper cartridge must be capable of sub-sonic extreme accuracy with very heavy bullets for its caliber, i.e. 240 grains in 30, as well as moderate to high velocity while maintaining excellent accuracy with light bullets for the caliber, i.e. 125 at 2300 FPS in the 30.

“. . . the cartridge was designed as a multi-purpose cartridge from the beginning. Its design parameters, in addition to the ballistics quoted above, were that it must be capable of being used in the AR-15/M16 family of rifles, contenders and bolt action rifles as well as being easily suppressed.” Quite a number of carbine bolt actions are chambered in Blackout. Most have 16-inch barrels. They range from Kimber’s Adirondack that weighs 4 pounds, 13 ounces, to the Ruger American Ranch rifle and Remington Model 700 Tactical. Pretty much every AR-type rifle chambered in .223/5.56 NATO is also chambered in Blackout. A different barrel is the only requirement to change from .223 to Blackout, as both cartridges operate at the same 55,000 psi and use the same magazine and bolt face. A SIG Sauer MCX VIRTUS Patrol was used to shoot the loads in the accompanying load table. The carbine is chambered in 5.56 or .300 Blackout. Only a barrel swap was required to change between the cartridges. Turning out two Torx screws loosened the barrel clamps, and the 5.56 barrel originally on the carbine pulled free of the upper receiver. After inserting a Blackout barrel and tightening the barrel clamp screws, I was in business shooting the Blackout.

I first shot SIG Sauer factory ammunition through the VIRTUS. Ammunition options are nearly unending, with Blackout ammunition also available from Barnes, Federal, Fiocchi, Gorilla, Hornady, HSM, Magtech, Nosler, Noveske, Remington, Silver State Armory, Streak, Underwood and Winchester. I’m sure there are others. It seems someone is always comparing the Blackout to the .223/5.56, 7.62×39 and .30-30. So, ballistics-wise, let’s measure the Blackout against these three cartridges. The .30-30 beats the Blackout every which way. The .30-30 shoots Sierra 150-grain bullets at 2,367 fps with 36.3 grains of CFE 223, and the Speer 125-grain TNT with 33.0 grains of H-335 at 2,587 fps when fired from the 20-inch barrel of my Winchester Model 94. Those velocities are an additional 300 fps faster than Blackout velocities with the same bullet weights. The Blackout is America’s version of the 7.62×39 Russian, and the tactical crowd calls the Blackout the 7.62×35. I have been able to shoot Sierra 110-grain bullets at 2,511 fps loaded with Reloder 7, and Speer 125-grain bullets at 2,500 fps with CFE BLK powder from the 18.5-inch barrel of my CZ 527 Carbine 7.62×39. Tulammo is the fastest factory ammunition I have shot through a CZ, with its 124-grain FMJ bullets registering 2,405 fps at the muzzle. Advantage for the Russian round is 200 plus fps. Ballistic charts show there is not much difference between the energy carried by 125-grain bullets fired at 2,235 fps from the Blackout and the .223 shooting 69-grain bullets at 3,000 fps, and 80-grain bullets existing the muzzle at 2,750 fps. The .22-caliber bullets carry about 50 foot-pounds of additional energy than the .30-caliber bullet by the time the three bullets have reached 100 yards. The .22-caliber bullets hang on to that energy advantage at 200 yards and enlarge the difference as distance increases. Both bullets fired from a .223 drop half the distance of the .30-caliber bullets at distances from 150 to 400 yards when all three bullets are zeroed at 100 yards. The Blackout launching 165-grain bullets at 1,850 fps does not improve on those figures. A 220-grain bullet fired at 1,000 fps from the Blackout carries only about half the energy as 165-grain bullets. The heavy bullet drops like a hand-thrown brick.

To go out on a half-sawn limb, the Blackout was never designed to improve on the .223’s ballistics. The Blackout’s value is that it provides acceptable velocity from a 16-inch barrel with bullets that carry some persuasive weight. Bullets for the Blackout run the gamut of lightweight projectiles traveling somewhat over 2,000 fps to heavy bullets plodding along at 1,000 fps. To determine how well light and heavy bullets expanded, I shot all the bullets listed in the accompanying load table into stacks of dry paper placed 35 yards from the muzzle of the SIG carbine. SIG-loaded Sierra 125-grain MatchKing bullets hit the paper at 2,080 fps, and handloaded Berger 110- and 125-grain bullets impacted at about 2,000 fps. All three bullets fragmented.

SIG 120-grain HT Solid Copper loads hit the paper at 2,150 fps. The hollowpoint peeled back into four petals to the bullet’s solid shank. The bullets expanded to nearly twice their original diameter, just like SIG advertises. The HT would make a great hunting bullet. I doubted Speer 165-grain bullets would expand with a slow impact velocity of a 1,700 fps. But the jacket of the bullets ripped apart down to the base and lost their lead core. Berger 210-grain bullets were marginally stable when fired at 1,100 fps from the SIG’s barrel with its 1:6 rifling twist. A few of the bullets hit sideways on targets at 100 yards. The Bergers hit the paper going 960 fps. Recovered bullets looked like they had immediately turned sideways when they hit. The bullets bent in half and fairly well lost their lead core. SIG-loaded Sierra 220-grain MatchKing bullets plowed into the paper at just under 1,000 fps. Their hollow points opened up, and the bullets expanded halfway down their length, doubling their initial width. The MatchKings would make a great bullet for shooting hogs. Lehigh Defense has a great selection of bullets for all uses of the Blackout. Those bullets range from a 78-grain Close Quarters bullet, with an aluminum core and prestressed jacket designed to violently expand and limit penetration no more than 18 inches, to Maximum Expansion 194-grain Subsonic Bullets. Lehigh states Maximum Expansion bullets do not expand in dry mediums like wood or drywall. Their hollowpoints are designed to expand at 750 to 1,200 fps upon contact with a fluid-based medium through hydraulic energy. I shot the bullets into the paper at 1,400 fps. The .60-inch-deep hollowpoints peeled back into four petals down to their solid copper base. It seemed only a sprinkle of powder balanced my scale when weighing charges to handload the Blackout. Powder weights for 210-grain bullets looked especially light; how could those small amounts of powder even push those big bullets out the bore?

Powders for the Blackout are relatively fast burning, such as Accurate No. 11FS, 1680, 5744, LT-30 and No. 9, Alliant Reloder 7 and 10X, IMR-4227 and 4198, Hodgdon Lil’Gun and CFE BLK. CFE BLK worked well with the 110- to 210-grain bullets I used for the Blackout. CFE BLK traded back and forth with Lil’Gun for highest velocities. Accurate No. 11FS provided good accuracy with Berger 125-grain FB Target bullets with a velocity 200 fps faster than Lil’Gun. Vertical spread of impact points of the different bullet weights was tremendous. With the SIG carbine sighted in to shoot 125-grain bullets on aim at 100 yards, Berger 110-grain bullets hit way over point of aim at 100 yards. In contrast, 210- and 220-grain bullets at subsonic velocities hit about 20 inches lower than the 125s.

Across the board, the Blackout produced low extreme velocity spreads that most likely resulted from powder charges held tightly in place by bullets in the Blackout case to promote a uniform powder burn. Over nine shots, SIG ammunition loaded with 120-grain HT bullets had an extreme velocity spread of 27 fps, Sierra 125-grain bullets provided a spread of 24 fps and Sierra 220-grain MatchKing bullets had an extreme spread of 16 fps. Handloads also produced even velocities. Berger 125-grain bullets shot with three different powders had an average extreme spread of 17 fps, Speer 165-grain bullets had a 29-fps velocity spread for three powders, and Lehigh Defense 194-grain bullets averaged 22 fps using three powders. There is some concern that the small powder charges the Blackout burns may fail to generate enough gas to cycle an autoloader’s action. The SIG MCX VIRTUS Patrol is equipped with a two-position gas valve to meter the correct amount of gas used to cycle the rifle. Adjustments are made by pushing down a lever on either side of the valve through “windows” in the sides of the handguard. The left-side lever on the handguard has a “minus” and the right side a “plus” mark. SIG suggests setting the valve on “minus” for loads that generate supersonic velocities and “plus” for subsonic loads. I left the valve on the latter setting for all shooting. Every one of several hundred loads cycled without a hitch.

Handloading the Blackout was straightforward. A few loads resulted in compressed powder charges when seating bullets. The cartridges remained the same length after sitting for a day. Some handloaders have reported the Blackout’s rather thin case necks fail to adequately hold bullets in place. A combination of compressed powder and the thrust of an autoloader’s bolt slamming closed can cause bullets to partially slide out of cases. Solutions include using a slightly narrower expander button in the sizing die, or loading bullets with a crimping cannelure to crimp case mouths. Most .30-caliber bullets, though, do not have a crimping groove. Those with a crimping groove most likely have it in the wrong place, unless they are specifically intended for the Blackout. Redding National Match dies come with a taper crimp die that solves all such problems. If I can theorize why the .300 Blackout has become so popular, it is because it’s a great informal target and everyday-shooting cartridge. Cartridges, handloads at least, are relatively inexpensive, and recoil is negligible. I shot the SIG carbine at targets, and my son shot it at ground squirrels. The back-and-forth slam of the bolt created more recoil than the actual firing of cartridges. From there the Blackout readily adapts to short-range hunting with an assortment of bullet weights and styles.

A detailed review and performance comparison of Sage Salt R8, Scott Sector, G.Loomis Asquith and NRX+ fly rods

Saltwater fly rod review model-by-model comparison

This much-anticipated and perhaps overdue head-to-head review was spurred by the introduction of the Sage Salt R8. We compare saltwater rods every day in conversations with customers, but with the Salt R8 introduction, we felt the time was right to put these four series under the microscope. Each represents the leading edge of unique rod design legacies and all will be among the very best available to global saltwater anglers for many years to come.

As of this writing, these are the rods that drive the debate. We recommend and sell plenty of Winston Air Salt and Sage Igniters, as well as the underrated Winston Alpha+, but all of those are fundamentally unique and less often compared directly with the Salt R8, Sector, Asquith and NRX+. Every Igniter is stiffer, or “faster,” than any rod in this review. Every Winston, whether an Air Salt or Alpha+, is less stiff, or “slower” than any of these rods. One and all fine fly rods, they represent the extremes of preference and purpose and are thus excluded from this comparison.

Our goal in this article is to differentiate similar models to help anglers choose the rod best aligned with their fishing preferences and casting style. We cast each rod group side-by-side with two fly lines to distinguish the nuances of casting range, feel, line speed, accuracy, power and presentation. Occasionally we landed on a universal favorite, a rod we all preferred regardless of line choice. More broadly, however, the range of our observations and preferences likely reflects the diversity of our customers. All of these rods will catch fish, but each has distinct character, so choose a rod that quickens your heartrate when you reach for it!

Alternative configurations: Scott Sector 8’4″ and 2-piece models are fantastic fly rods. If your rod will live on a boat, strongly consider one of the 8’10” 2-piece Sectors. The convenience of a 2-piece rod is undeniable for the local angler. Scott’s 8’4″ Sectors fly way under the radar, too, and while not described in this article, we implore anglers to consider one on merit of lightness, casting ease and accuracy. Unfairly categorized as “boat rods,” we find the 8’4″ Sectors to be lethal fishing tools and a pleasure to cast whether on foot or afloat. Some misconceive that a shorter rod is somehow weaker. They are actually stronger fish fighters because the lever between hand and fish is shorter.

At the end of the day, most anglers prefer a 9′ 4-piece saltwater fly rod. In our opinion, the Asquith, Salt R8, Sector and NRX+ are the most compelling choices. So, let’s get on with it. Which one will make your heart race?

This article was written by John Duncan with input on every rod model from Fly Shop Manager Parker Thompson and Richard Post, our Buyer and all-around fly fishing assassin.

Sage Salt R8

Introduced in January 2024, the Salt R8 brought Sage’s saltwater fly rods back to the everyday angler. They are a joy to fish: light, explosive, intuitive and accurate. Components are second to none. The grips are smallest in class, a gracefully contoured full Wells that lacks nothing for purchase or leverage but seems to fit the hand of every angler just a little better. The Salt R8 are legacy defining rods, taking us back to the day when Sage was the first and last word in saltwater fly rod design.

Defining characteristics: lightness, easy power, high line speed and great loops with popular saltwater lines

G.Loomis Asquith

Years after its introduction (2016), the Loomis Asquith continues to astound anglers who have never cast one. While no rod will be considered “perfect,” rod designer Steve Rajeff clearly achieved or surpassed his ideals with the basic action of these fly rods. Some consider the grips to be chunky and unrefined; others find the components underwhelming, but none argue that Asquith rod blanks stand alone in flex and recovery characteristics, using more of the rod with greater resilience to generate the highest line speed of any fly rod.

Defining characteristics: elite power, lively feel throughout the blank, line speed at all distances, ability to fish any fly line

Scott Sector

Apart from the G Series, there is no fly rod that exemplifies the Scott design ethos more than the Sector. It is obvious to those within the industry that Rod Designer Jim Bartschi moves slowly and purposefully. He is one of those guys who doesn’t speak often, but when he does, everyone listens. When introducing a new fly rod, his goal is for it to stand at the top for a decade, or possibly longer. The Sector, introduced in 2019, is a marvel of design and performance. Some say it has “ideal saltwater action.” An incredibly broad range of anglers love these rods. Countless Telluride Angler customers have purchased multiple rods in the series after fishing their first. As casters and rod reviewers, we notice that Sectors cast the most popular fly lines better than other rods, including flats classics such as the SA and Rio Bonefish tapers.

Defining characteristics: perfectly tuned to their line weights, progressive action, sensational range

G.Loomis NRX+

Descendant of the rods that made G.Loomis famous (GLX, NRX), NRX+ saltwater rods are trusted worldwide for their dependable performance, familiarity to the angler and indisputable power. Like lounging in a favorite armchair, many anglers get comfortable with an NRX+ and never want to leave. They are not the lightest rods in class, nor constructed with jewel box components, but the NRX+ are built to last and built to cast, as we rediscovered in several highly competitive line weights. (Intro 2019)

Defining characteristics: power and stability in challenging conditions, familiarity, durability

Model-by-Model Comparisons

Salt R8 690-4 v. Sector 906-4

A subtle difference in action delineates these fine fly rods. The Sector is a tad stiffer in the butt and mid-section, resulting in a more “classic saltwater action,” in the words of Richard Post. It has more “gas,” and possesses a higher gear. You can lean on this rod, haul it aggressively, fish it with a variety of lines including specialized trout streamer and bass lines, which tend to fold lesser fly rods. The Salt R8 feels a little more “finessey,” in Parker’s appraisal, more oriented toward small flies and probably a better crossover rod for trout, except in the heavy streamer category. Both rods handle a Rio Elite Bonefish and Rio Flats Pro, but the Sector with a Rio Bonefish throws the tightest loops for presenting size #6 and #8 flies on the flats. Both offer plenty of feedback, but the Sage Salt R8 has more “touch,” a possible benefit in the trout arena.

Asquith 790-4 v. Sector 907-4 v. Salt R8 790-4 v. NRX+ 790-4

Only the 12-weight category possesses rods more diverse in character. The Asquith 790-4 defines its series. Light and springy beyond compare, this superhero fly rod would be the preference of any angler, except the grip is the same as on the tarpon rods in the series. It’s thick. If you don’t mind a hefty grip, this rod is among the most spectacular saltwater fly rods you will ever fish. Otherwise, keep reading. The Sage Salt R8 has the lightest, most airy feel of the group. You can’t stomp on the butt section like the Asquith, NRX+ or Sector, so choose this rod for smaller flies and classic flats applications. This would be the ultimate Christmas Island or Belize bonefish rod, but lacks the bottom end of the others. The Sector 907-4 is the opposite. As Rich describes, “it wants you to cast off the butt.” The Sector 907-4 is ideal for someone with a relaxed casting stroke, or for fresh/salt crossover with large flies. It is probably the best bass bug rod under comparison, for example, while still a lovely rod for bones or redfish. If you fish a heavy-headed redfish line, the Sector 907-4 is your rod. The NRX+ falls into the “workmanlike” category, “old school,” according to Parker Thompson, “stiff from tip to butt.” “You have to stay on it,” according to Rich. We all agreed that the NRX+ 790-4 needs the head weight of a Flats Pro line to bring it to life, which is telling. It tolerates a strong double haul and outright needs one with an SA or Rio Bonefish taper. This rod is a popular choice among freshwater anglers who use super aggressive streamer lines for transporting articulated streamers, Zonkers, pike and bass flies.

Sector 908-4 v. Salt R8 890-4 v. Asquith 890-4 v. NRX+ 890-4

This contentious group of fly rods could start a barfight, probably has. It earned our recognition for “muddiest category,” a cohort of 8-weights that proudly demonstrates the state of the art. If you own an 8-weight and it’s not one of these, you’re missing something.

The Asquith offers the greatest possible line speed without bumping to the next line weight. It toes the line, however, because with a standard bonefish taper, the ASQ 890-4 requires a strong double haul for greatest distance and pretty loops. It responds to power better than any comparable rod, but also requires precision input from the caster. We cast it with a Rio Bonefish Taper and Rio Flats Pro, the latter of which brought it to life in the hands of every caster, including Duncan, who sometimes appears asleep at the wheel. By comparison, the Sector is more finely tuned to its line weight and purpose. The Asquith has more top end potential, but nothing casts a Rio Elite Bonefish as intuitively as the Sector 908-4. If Rio were to describe the way this line is intended to present a fly, the preferred rod would be the Sector. Ranginess and loop control are unequalled with the Sector, a remarkable fly rod that seems born for bonefish. The Sector doesn’t like the Rio Flats Pro, so it may not perform as well as the Asquith with a Rio Outbound or other shooting-style line, but for true-to-line-weight fly lines, it’s a truly refined rod.

So here comes the Salt R8 890-4, one of our favorite rods in that series. It feels stiffer than the Sector but less than the Asquith. Whereas the Sector and Asquith both flex progressively (evenly, based on the amount of line in the air), the Salt R8 has a distinct sweet spot high on the blank. It’s a prototypical “tip casting rod,” but unlike its genetic forerunners, it’s an easy rod to cast. With a Rio or SA Bonefish Taper, a moderate double haul produces explosive line speed and the tightest loops you can imagine. In the end, it casts and fishes much like the Sector, just 5% stiffer. It feels even lighter than the Sector, but the caster needs to be a little more “on it,” as Rich would say. The Sector is better short and extra-long, but the Salt R8 is magic in the fishy 40’-60’ zone.

We cast the NRX+ 890-4 last in this group and it made us go back to the beginning and re-cast the other three rods. This is the best rod in the NRX+ series. While not as light and playful as the others, it is perhaps the most stable and “automatic” of them all. I had mis-pegged this rod as one that required overlining, or overpowering in the cast. Not so. It’s stiff enough to be better with a Flats Pro than with a regular Rio or SA Bonefish taper (the Rio Flats Pro is extra-heavy in the head), but casts all of these with some of the nicest loops you’ll ever see come out of a fly rod and with the greatest stability and accuracy of any rod under comparison. It’s not light or sweet in the tip, but the casting capabilities of this rod are undeniable. It is the best “large fly” rod in the group, too, so pike/musky/striper anglers take note. This is the night train.

Sector 909-4 v. Asquith 990-4 v. Salt R8 990-4 v. NRX+ 990-4

Since 9-weights are the new 10-weights for permit, we cast the rods in this category with a Rio Elite Permit and Rio Flats Pro, both of which require a rod with torsional stability and plus power to deliver a wind-resistant fly. Since we didn’t compare these rods with a Rio or SA Bonefish line, we feel compelled to observe that the Scott Sector 909-4, paired with a Bonefish taper, is perhaps the single finest 9-weight saltwater fly rod we’ve ever cast, without variance in our opinions.

9-weights are such versatile rods, the preferred line weight for countless species and one that crosses over from bones and reds to permit, stripers, roosterfish, baby tarpon and golden dorado. The Sector 909-4 throws a Rio Elite Permit as well as any fly rod. It picks up a very long line for easy second shots, critical in permit fishing. True to the series, this progressive action rod lacks the raw butt section strength of the Asquith or Sage Igniter, so there could be better rods for casting heavy shooting heads over the surf from steep beaches, but for flats applications, it’s the rod to beat. The Loomis Asquith is the stiffest rod in class, fishing like a 9 ½ weight, but offers the greatest line speed with adequate input from the caster. It also handles the heaviest specialty lines, such as the Rio Outbound, better than any of the others. The Rio Elite Permit underlines the rods slightly, but a firm haul loads and delivers spectacular loops and line speed. Choose the Sector for a combination of bonefish and permit. Choose the Asquith for permit and striped bass, if you fish bass from the beach.

The Salt R8 is built for comfort rather than speed. Ideal for all day casting, we recommend this rod with heavy lines, including the Rio Flats Pro, for repetition casting. It’s an excellent boat striper rod, for example, and also an excellent jungle rod, where you might cast all day for a golden dorado or two.

The NRX+ 990-4 casts like a Cadillac in overdrive. It is the heaviest rod in hand, but impressive at distance and in complete control with any fly line. Loop shape is outstanding with a Rio Permit line, but it has plenty of bottom end for the Rio Flats Pro, Outbound Short or SA Titan Taper lines.

Asquith 1090-4 v. NRX+ 1090-4 v. Salt R8 1090-4 v. Sector 9010-4

Parker sums it up well by observing that both Loomis rods have a “big game feel,” fishing at the top of their line class, leaning into tarpon territory. They have very stiff butt sections that feel like they were designed independently from the rest of the rod for the exclusive purpose of fighting heavy fish. This creates a slight feel of disconnection between the hand and fly line, but the power of these two rods is undeniable.

We cast all four rods with a Rio Elite Permit line and a Flats Pro. The Asquith was the best rod with the Flats Pro, but we noticed that line speed and presentation were better on all rods with the Elite Permit taper. The Asquith is the best rod for 2nd shots as the lower rod’s stiffness rips line off the water with authority, but this rod loses its trademark “springy” feel beyond 70’ on the cast. It is outstanding for aggressive beach fishing for heavy striper and roosterfish applications, where the caster is inherently overpowering the rod and needs to hold the line extra high to clear the surf. The NRX+ has a stiff butt, soft mid-section and stiff tip. It feels “hinged,” always wanting to cast from the middle of the rod, automatic in the 40-60’ range but not as light or playful as the Sage or Scott. Both Loomis rods emphasize power over presentation.

The Scott and Sage are both better permit fishing rods, and better all-day casters for false albacore, striped bass, etc. The Sector is the easiest casting but least powerful rod in the group. Being a 10-weight, it has plenty of power for permit and will be an excellent choice for less experienced casters and those who simply don’t possess a powerful casting stroke. The Salt R8 requires more input from the caster, but generates higher line speed and handles both the Permit taper and Flats Pro line with authority, whereas the Flats Pro is too heavy on the Sector. The Salt R8 feels lightest of the group and casts tight loops in the greatest range. It’s a powerful, nimble rod that best embodies the 10-weight saltwater class.

Sector 9011-4 v. Asquith 1190-4 v. Salt R8 1190-4 v. NRX+ 1190-4

The Sector is outstanding with both the Rio Flats Pro and Rio Elite Tarpon line, loading just the right amount on each swing for shots at any distance. It has the greatest range of any rod in this group, from shortest to longest. Butt section power is spectacular without making the rod heavy or clunky. This is a marvel of progressive-fast rod design. The Asquith 11-wt fishes like an 11 ½-wt. It is probably the best fish-fighter in the group, the best 11-weight for Boca Grande and other places where 100lbs+ tarpon are common. It has the most butt section resilience for second shots, but the rod feels underlined when starting a cast fly-in-hand. For many anglers, it would take a few extra swings to generate line speed. This is a great rod for guys who hammer their cast. The NRX+ is actually springier than the Asquith, especially with the heavy-headed Rio Flats Pro. It is one of the most progressive rods in the NRX+ series, reminiscent of the 8-weight, casting well in a really wide range, but it’s also the heaviest rod in this group. The Salt R8 requires a long, strong stroke. It’s bouncy on short casts, but accuracy and line speed come when you dig into the butt section. You can’t tip-cast this rod, nor stab it into the wind, but it casts a variety of lines quite well at distance. Of all the rods in this series, the Salt R8 1190-4 will draw the most mixed reviews. Cast it before you buy it.

Sector 9012-4 v. Asquith 1290-4 v. Salt R8 1290-4 FG v. NRX+ 1290-4

The Sector 9012-4 is unique from the other 12-weights. In our hands, it’s underpowered for this line class, easy to load but hard to cast with power and command. The butt section is certainly stiff enough to fight large tarpon, but the angler should choose this rod only if seeking the slowest action tarpon rod available. Consider fishing it with an 11-weight line.

The Asquith, on the other hand, provides the most casting and fish fighting power while somehow also being the lightest rod in class. The only caveat is that the caster needs to throw with power and confidence. That’s the inherent nature of 12-weight fishing, of course, but the Asquith 1290-4 is a rod that asks for power and delivers power. It is, quite simply, a mind-blowing fly rod. The NRX+ isn’t far behind, surprisingly springy and intuitive with a heavy-headed line, like the Flats Pro. It’s notably heavier than the Asquith or Salt R8, but throws well at distance.

The Salt R8 1290-4 is a surprising favorite in this group. While not quite as powerful as the Loomis rods, it provides an excellent balance of castability and command. Light for a 12-weight, it has greater stability than the Sector #12 or the Salt R8 1190-4. We were surprised at how well it handled both the Rio Elite Tarpon and Rio Flats Pro, the latter of which felt heavy and clunky on many rods that we cast on this day. Range and feel are excellent and the rod has enough stiffness in the butt to pick up line for second shots, always critical in tarpon fishing.

[Fly Rods Page] [Scott Sector Page] [Sage Salt R8 Page] [G.Loomis Asquith Page] [G.Loomis NRX+ Page]

There have been many different beaver trapping sets used throughout the years that work really well.

Most are simple and straight forward since beaver are rarely trap-shy.

Four types of traps are commonly used for trapping beavers.

They are the #3 or #4 long spring, coil springs like the Bridger #5 or the MB-750, the 330 conibear and the snare.

When setting leg holds for beaver, try to place them in the water.

Look for a spot where the beaver enters or exits, and set the trap about six inches or so deep under the water.

You may miss a few beavers setting this deep, but you will have fewer sprung traps and fewer front leg pull-outs or twist-off’s than setting just below the surface.

When a beaver swims up to the shore, many times its chest will spring a trap that’s been set too shallow.

If you set it deeper, you can get a good solid rear foot catch.

A conibear trap should be set and braced solidly so it won’t be accidentally knocked over instead of making a catch.

Guide sticks are usually a good idea to funnel the beaver through the trap.

Snares can be set under water or on dry land.

I prefer dry land sets since they always seem to get pushed out of position when I put them in the water.

On dry land a 10”-12” loop set 2” or 3” off the ground will catch most beaver.

One drawback to snares is hide damage.

I haven’t seen one yet that doesn’t leave a ring mark on the hide when you skin it.

Some fur buyers don’t seem to care but I know at least one of mine docked me for that mark.

Anchoring Your Traps

Beavers can twist off a front foot just like a muskrat, so you don’t want to stake a beaver trap down on dry land.

If you have the time and resources, you can put in a drowning wire so the beaver slides down the wire into deep water to drown.

An “L” shaped lock will keep the trap from sliding back up the line.

Use heavy gauged wire or cable that’s staked down near your set location.

Attach the other end to a heavy weight or sack of rocks.

A cement block works really well, the only disadvantage is carrying the heavy weight with you on the trapline.

Instead of cable you can also use a drowning rod which is basically a 10 foot long piece of metal rod that’s driven into the deep water on one end and staked down with a T stake on the other end near your set location.

The trap slides on the bar just like it would on the wire but the drowning rod has a few advantages.

First, you don’t have to carry the heavy cement block with you through the woods and second the rods won’t kink like the wire will, allowing you to use it time and time again.

A disadvantage would be carrying the 10 foot long piece of steel rod with you through the swamp.

Another option is to wire a leg hold to a large log that the beaver can move, kind of like using a drag in coyote trapping.

You might think the beaver would chew through the log and escape but they are usually drowned in deep water or tangled up nearby.

I have lost exactly one trap in all the years I have trapped like this.

Conibears should be wired to something solid, just in case the dying throes of the beaver move it to deep water where you wouldn’t be able to find it.

Den Sets – Beaver Trapping Sets

The simplest of all is the den set.

Simply set a conibear in the den entrance (where legal) and you will most likely connect.

Most lodges in open water will have 2 entrances.

Some lodges built partially on land may only have one entrance. Place a 330 conibear at each entrance.

Beavers can den up in a river bank like muskrats or more commonly build a hut or lodge out in the pond they create.

Many huts will have areas that show where the beavers come out of the water and sit on the hut.

This is another good set location especially if you can’t locate the den entrance for some reason.

You will have a higher chance of catching kits in this type of set, but I have caught kits almost 100 yards from huts before.

Castor Mound Set – Beaver Trapping Sets

The castor mound set or scent mound set is a productive springtime set.

In the spring beavers are in a mating mood and they will scoop up mud, twigs and leaves from the bottom of the pond to build a small mound on the bank and then put their scent on it to try to attract a mate.

It should be pretty obvious where the beaver are traveling to and from these little mounds.

If the conditions are right, you can put a conibear in a run or usually set a leg hold in the slide where they exit the water.

Dam Run Sets – Beaver Trapping Sets

I have read of other beaver trappers cautioning about setting dam runs for various reasons. Setting the dam run is my favorite set location.

Where I trap, this is a sure-fire place the beavers will be traveling from one pond to another.

In my area, any active beaver pond will have a well worn trail over the dam heading down into the outlet stream.

A leg hold set in the pond side water leading up to the trail is a good set. A snare suspended half way down is another.

If you can legally set a conibear on dry land, this trail is a wonderful place for it.

Any other run or trail that looks like the beaver are using is a good place for a set, either on dry ground or runs in the water.

Baited Sets – Beaver Trapping Sets

If you have a difficult time finding a good natural set location you can try baiting the beaver into your set.

A small pile of fresh partially peeled sticks from the trees the beaver are using for food may draw them into your set.

This beaver trapping set works best when food is on the scarce side or right before freeze up when the beavers are trying to stash their winter supply of food.

Overall – Beaver Trapping Sets

You can get fancy and experiment with your beaver trapping sets or you can stick with the basics and just keep it simple.

For me, the easy to construct sets listed above have worked great in a variety of different locations.

Whether you choose to use one set or try them all, I hope you enjoy beaver trapping as much as I do.

A Shifting Market

Paul Bastean, managing director at Ultimate Defense in St. Peters, Mo., said the ammunition market is shifting for dealers. Larger retailers are getting the ammunition they need, he said, but smaller retailers still are having a difficult time.

“If you have the capacity to buy a pallet, you can get ammo,” he noted. “If you only have the capacity to buy three cases, you don’t get it. If a wholesaler or manufacturer can put a label on 360 cases of ammo and send it to one place, or send 360 cases of ammo to potentially 100 different places with 100 different mailing labels, both for the same amount of markup, they’re going to send it to the one place.”

Because Ultimate Defense has been buying ammo by the pallet, Bastean said they have developed a new and different relationship with other retailers around them.

“We get along with a lot of the local gun shops in our area,” he shared. “We are now their ammunition distributor.”

According to Bastean, ammunition prices are finally starting to come down from what they were during COVID.

“U.S. manufacturers are fighting with importers now, and they’re losing,” he observed. “Importers are driving the price down.”

Bastean thinks this will continue to drive prices down, and if imported ammunition remains as available as it is now, smaller retailers will start to be able to buy lesser quantities of ammo again.

“But it may not happen,” he cautioned. “We’re not in an election cycle yet, but we can kind of see it from where we are, and this election cycle is going to be a doozy.”

Bastean said the imported ammo he’s seen is primarily from Magtech and Sellier & Bellot.

“That’s a lot of what we’re getting offered,” he said. “We’re seeing a lot of it not only from our wholesaler reps but also on emails. It’s also a lot of what my competition is advertising.”

Domestic manufacturers are struggling with price, Bastean observed.

“Winchester just came to us and they’re not even in the realm of being price competitive in 9mm,” he said. “We haven’t had a box of 9mm Winchester in here for two years or so.”

One thing affecting ammunition sales, he contends, is the effect the economy is having on disposable income.

“The guy who’s been a gun guy for more than five years has a cache of ammo he’s sitting on,” he said. “It’s never enough, but it’s at least enough that he feels comfortable he has some. The new shooters we’ve seen in the past two or three years still buy a box here and there, but inflation and disposable income are going to squeeze everything a little bit tighter. We’ve seen a slight reduction in training and memberships and from year to year, we’ve seen a pretty substantial reduction in ammunition sales.”

At one point, Bastean recalled, Ultimate Defense was the only retailer in the county with any ammunition. During that period of time, they saw a massive increase in the amount of ammunition they were selling because they were the only game in town. Then in the middle of 2022, some of the big-box stores started getting ammunition, and the store’s ammo sales decreased.