I’ve been bowhunting for 30 years and in the 2016 season, I took my biggest mule deer ever with a bow. I shoot a PSE Omen bow and on this hunt, I was using a Rage Hypodermic broadhead.

I go to Wyoming fishing. I wanted to hunt mule deer in Wyoming, but I had been guiding so much that I hadn’t had a chance to go to Wyoming and hunt for myself. 2016 was the only time in 10 years that I was able to make a mule deer hunt in Wyoming. When I drew my tag, I knew I’d be hunting in a really good unit.

I made six scouting trips before the season. I found a buck in the middle of July, then I didn’t see him again for 1-1/2 months. I found him again five or six days before my hunt started. I had pulled my trailer up to the area that I wanted to hunt five days before the season. When I saw this buck, his antlers had grown from about a 210-inch buck to a 252-inch buck in a little bit more than 1-1/2 months.

I came back home to Utah for a couple of days, and all I could think about was that mule deer buck. I went back to Wyoming two days before bow season started on Thursday. I arrived on Tuesday, and I found that buck again on Wednesday. The buck was holding on a peak at about 10,000 feet – almost above the tree line. I saw a grizzly bear, two wolves and about five or six black bears. I could see the Grand Teton Mountains off to my west.

I was hunting along the Wind River where one of the tallest peaks in Wyoming is and it’s called Gannet Peak. This is a really remote area of Wyoming, and I rarely see any other hunters when I’m up there. The first time I found this buck and every time I found him until I took him, he was on the same peak. I had put some trail cameras out on this mountain, and I got trail camera pictures from when he scored about 210 inches.

I was hiking in to my stand before daylight on the day I took the buck. My Dad and a friend of mine were hunting on the opposite side of the mountain from me. All the way in to where I was going to setup, I thought about the bears I had seen when I was scouting. I had one hand on my bow and the other hand on my bear spray as I moved silently through the dark woods. I hoped that the buck would be feeding at daylight on a south-facing slope where I had seen him before. One of the advantages of bowhunting mule deer in the early season is, because their antlers are still in the velvet, they tend to stay in open places more often than when they’re in hard horn.

The buck I was hunting was with another buck that would score about 180 on the P&Y scale. About 8 a.m., when the sun started warming up, the bucks would usually leave the open areas and move to the north side of the slope. I decided to try and intercept the buck as he went from his feeding area in the early morning to his bedding area. When I spotted the buck, I knew I had to climb the mountain to get above him. I climbed between 1,000 and 2,000 feet up above the buck. I was only about 100 yards from the top of the mountain when I set up. As the two deer moved toward me, the smaller buck was leading my buck up a trail about 50 yards from me.

Once I finally took the shot, the arrow hit the buck hard enough to turn the buck around and cause him to start going back down the trail he had just come up. Then the buck bedded down about 80 yards from me. After about 30 minutes, I saw the buck come rolling out of this patch of trees where he had bedded down. If he hadn’t hit this one tree while he was rolling, he would have fallen off a ledge, landed about 500 feet down the mountain and probably would have broken his rack.

He was a 252-inch buck, and he had a total of 25 points. The buck was also the state record for mule deer taken in the velvet in the state of Wyoming.

Day 1: Mossy Oak Pro Brandon Wicks’s Biggest Bull Elk

Tomorrow: One of Brandon Wicks’s Most Memorable Elk Hunts

Here’s whether a shark or a crocodile wins in a fight:

A great white shark may take more than one hit and a lot of biting to beat a crocodile, but eventually, the great white shark will win.

Sharks species smaller than a great white easily lose to crocodiles.

The shark is always the prey when crocodiles and small sharks fight in shallow waters.

If you want to learn all about who wins in a fight between a shark and a crocodile, then you’re in the right place.

Keep reading!

Who Wins in a Fight Between a Shark and a Crocodile?

The only place where the great white shark and the saltwater crocodile can meet is the open water.

This is the natural habitat of the great white shark and gives them a maneuvering advantage over the slower saltwater Croc.

It would take multiple hits and a lot of biting to beat the crocodile, but eventually, the shark would probably win.

If it’s any other species of sharks smaller than the great white, the crocodile would easily take the win home.

Fights between crocodiles and small sharks sometimes happen in shallow waters, and in this case, the shark is always the prey.

It’s a bit different with great whites since they are rare and can only be found in deep waters.

Sharks can swim with 25 mph (40 km/h) speed in long bursts, while crocodiles can get to 18 mph (29 km/h) but get easily tired.

That’s where the main advantage for the great white shark over the saltwater crocodile lies.

Who Has a Stronger Bite: A Shark or a Crocodile?

The great white shark does have a huge jaw, but as a result of its diet, it doesn’t have the strongest bite amongst all shark species.

It’s a lot easier to bite through a seal (great white prey) than through the shells of a turtle (tiger shark prey).

The world’s most ferocious jaws, belonging to the saltwater crocodile, can snap with a force of 4000 lbs (2 tons).

The White Shark has a bite force of only 2200 lbs (1.1 tons).

It’s not a joke when this shark bites you but compared to the crocodile, they seem toothless.

The jaw size of the shark is wide enough to bite any part of a crocodile, but it lacks the force and proper teeth to do serious damage.

Although a crocodile can bite-crush almost anything, his mouth is simply not big enough for a great white shark.

Different Types of Teeth

Since they feed on different types of animals, it’s no surprise that sharks and crocodiles have different teeth shapes.

Crocs hunt prey that is larger and with stronger skin and bones, so they need teeth rigid enough to devour their victims.

White sharks don’t need to crunch the bones of the things they hunt and go for biting rather than squeezing with huge pressure.

A shark’s teeth look like a saw, and they are a few rows of spare ones behind each front tooth.

It’s not rare for sharks to lose and replace teeth during a struggle.

Who Will Participate in a Shark vs. Crocodile Fight?

The family Crocodylidae or True Crocodiles numbers 14 animal species.

As part of the order Crocodilia, the family has caimans, alligators, and caimans as their closest cousins.

The largest of them all is the one who is going to be picked for the Shark vs. Crocodile fight.

The saltwater crocodile is the largest living reptile, and this ancient being is also the one causing most human deaths compared to others of its family.

There are more than 1000 shark and ray species, and new ones are discovered each year.

If we want to pick the contender for this epic fight we will probably go with the biggest shark of them all, correct?

Well, not quite!

The whale shark is the biggest fish in the world but doesn’t participate in fights.

Its megamouth serves as a filter feeder to swallow anything coming its way (possibly a crocodile even).

The real shark fighter and the one with the most recorded attacks on humans is the great white shark.

It’s the 6th largest shark species, and the only one coming near its ferocity, strength, and size is the tiger shark (4th largest).

Characteristics of the Great White Shark

Legendary for being one of the fiercest predators, the great white shark caused admiration and fear in people for many years.

This cartilaginous fish is probably causing more harm in people’s imagination than in real life.

While humans fear the great white shark expressly and consider it a man-eating predator, this powerful and efficient hunter never had a preference for people.

Attacks happen when the shark is confused or just wants to taste the moving object.

When a great white shark wants to attack, the opening of its mouth can be 3 to 4 ft (1-1.2 m) wide.

The top of the great white shark is darker in blue of gray variations, while the lower area of the body is white.

Such discoloration is a hunting advantage because prey doesn’t notice the shark’s figure, and to them, it looks like the bottom of the ocean.

White Shark Body Strength

A great white shark has a fusiform and robust body. That means it’s shaped like a spindle and big and strong at the same time.

Adult sharks can be 13-22 ft (4-6.7 m) long with an average length of 19 ft (5.8 m).

Their weight can be somewhere between 6600 and 7500 lbs (3000-3400 kg).

The adult male great white sharks are approximately 6.5 ft (2 m) smaller than their representative females.

Strong pectoral fins and a triangle-shaped back fin are placed behind its narrow and pointed snout.

There is a smaller fin near the tail which ends with long lower and upper lobes.

Whiteys have delicate skin that cannot withstand huge penetrating forces, which puts them in an inferior position compared to crocodiles.

Characteristics of the saltwater crocodile

The saltwater crocodile is believed to be the animal that is most likely to eat a human being of all other animals in the world.

At the back of their mouths, saltwater crocodiles have valves that seal off the cavity from the throat.

This way, they can open their mouth while under the water.

However, it’s not possible to eat the prey beneath the water surface because they will need to swallow and allow their throats to open and fill with liquid.

When a crocodile catches something underwater, it has to take it to land and eat it or raise itself with its head above the water and swallow.

Adult individuals can be 16-23 ft (4.8-7 meters) in length and weigh between 880-1540 lbs (400-700 kg).

The male crocodiles are much larger than the females.

Their enormous heads and broad, heavy bodies are grey to brown so that they can blend in their muddy habitats.

Having short and strong limbs, their biggest attributes are their long and strong jaws.

A croc’s skin appears as some sort of prehistoric armor. It’s not easy to penetrate through it at all.

Where Can You Find Sharks?

You can find sharks in a lot of places in the world. They inhabit tropical waters nears the coasts and even temperate and cold areas.

In the Americas, there are sharks from Alaska to Mexico in the Pacific Ocean and from Newfoundland to Mexico in the Atlantic Ocean.

Outside of America, sharks dwell in the waters of Japan, the Mediterranean Sea, Oceania, and South Africa.

White Shark Behavior

Generally, the great white shark swims and hunts solitarily. From time to time, they can reunite with others. The groups can consist of a couple of sharks or even groups of 5-6.

Females mostly take the lead in the groups because of the existing hierarchical dominance.

Larger sharks dominate over the smaller ones, and when the group accepts newcomers, the fresh ones are subdued by the old leadership for some time.

The animal is equally active day and night. In an attempt to get familiar with the surroundings or look for prey, great sharks can sometimes jump out of the water.

While not being aggressive towards others of their species, an occasional warning bite might happen.

Where Can You Find Crocodiles?

Saltwater crocs can be commonly found in and around river mouths, mangrove swamps, and coastal marshes.

They inhabit the tropical regions of Australia, Africa, South America, North America, and Africa.

When crocodiles feel capable of swimming a lot, they can travel upstream.

Seasonal floods make it possible for crocodiles to get to places that are otherwise hard to reach.

It’s not unusual for them to live in the open ocean for short periods as they are quite capable of that.

Exploring is an exciting activity that can make them cross large water expanses.

Saltwater Crocodile Behavior

The saltwater crocodile is thought of as one of the most sophisticated and intelligent reptiles on the planet.

They live in groups and communicate with each other by crocodile-barking, hissing, chirping, and growling.

Saltwater crocodiles invest a great deal of their time thermoregulating to maintain their body temperatures.

For example, when it’s too hot, they go inside the water, stick their eyes and nostrils out and just wait until they are cool.

Do Crocodiles and Sharks Meet in Nature?

Crocodiles and sharks can occasionally meet in the water and have close encounters; most of the time, the situation would end with the shark fleeing the scene or getting eaten.

It’s mostly smaller shark species since large ones don’t dwell in shallow water.

Brutus the Giant Crocodile

Brutus is an 80-year-old crocodile living in Adelaide River in Northern Australia.

He some kind of celebrity because his front right leg is missing, and there are even boat tours that take you to him.

Photographers have caught him a few times with a bull shark in his mouth freshly caught from the river.

But you know what’s even more interesting?

It is sharks that took his front leg in the first place.

Comparison of Great White Shark and Saltwater Crocodile Attributes

The crayfish, crawdad, crawfish discussion is kind of like the creek, crick discussion — it comes down to regional preference. I’ve heard it all three ways but grew up saying crayfish.

The first time my dad took me to catch crayfish I was both nervous and enchanted by them. We rode our bikes from the home where I spent most of my childhood to the creek down the road. Under the bridge we lifted rocks to look for them, being careful not to stir the water so we could see them. And in one swift motion, dad grabbed them and lifted them up for me to inspect.

I remember asking if it hurt when they pinched his hands, but years of pouring concrete for a living had hardened them to the point the curious-looking creatures couldn’t even puncture his skin. I have been pinched and it’s uncomfortable, but not unbearable. My daughter, Vayda, has been pinched and it turned her off catching them with her hands for a long time. So we got a net.

Catching crayfish is kind of a summer tradition. The creek my dad took me to the first time now runs through his backyard and provides endless amusement. We catch tadpoles in the spring, largemouth bass and bluegill after a good rain and crayfish in the summer when the water is warmer.

Strategies to catch crayfish

Crayfish can be caught in freshwater lakes, ponds, rivers, creeks and streams. They are frequently found in habitats with slow-moving water and plenty of rocks and vegetation to provide cover.

They are easiest to find during the summer when water is warmer and most active at night because they are nocturnal. For these reasons, the best time to go crayfishing or set traps is near dusk.

Catching crayfish by hand. The best way to find crayfish is by lifting rocks in shallow areas of a creek or stream. You’ll need to be mindful of the way the water is flowing, lifting rocks into the current so the dust that gets stirred up by lifting the rock is carried out of your field of view. You also want to lift rocks slowly to avoid startling the crayfish underneath. Once you’ve located a crayfish, slowly reach your hand into the water, approaching from its tail. When you’re ready make one fluid motion to grab the crayfish’s body behind its claws to avoid getting pinched. You could also use a net to try scooping crayfish instead or to place it in front of the crayfish and attempt to get it to run in on its own by touching its tail.

Bait crayfishing. Another method you can try is by using a fishing pole and bait fishing with worms, fish parts or even a piece of hotdog or raw meat. Attach the bait to the pole by tying a fishing hook or safety pin on the end of your line and placing the bait on it. Lower the bait into the water and slowly wiggle it until you feel or see a crayfish grab hold. Then slowly pull it towards the shore. If you are close enough to see the crayfish attached to the bait, you can try scooping it up with a net.

Using traps. You can catch crayfish in larger quantities by using traps. Open traps are collapsible nets that are open at one end. Closed traps are a little more intricate with a funnel at one end to prevent crayfish from escaping. Open traps can be placed out for several hours with enough bait. Closed traps can be left overnight. Some traps are baited utilizing a hook that hangs in the center and others use bait boxes or bait jars. Traps should be no larger than three feet in height, width and depth. Cylindrical-, beehive- and cone-shaped traps are preferred to square-shaped traps.

Crayfishing regulations

Many states require a fishing license to catch crayfish in public waters. In Ohio, you need a fishing license to catch crayfish in state waters. Additionally, it is unlawful for any person except licensed bait dealers to possess more than 100 crayfish or a combination of crayfish, minnows and other baitfish that exceeds 500. Additionally, a bait dealer’s permit is required of persons buying or selling minnows, crayfish and hellgrammites.

Some states also have restrictions on transporting crayfish because some species are considered invasive. Make sure to check the guidelines in your state before you go crayfishing.

Resources

• Ohio Department of Natural Resources

Some things in life are so obvious they get overlooked for a long time. That’s the case—no pun intended—with the 7.62×40 WT cartridge, a .223 Rem. case necked up to .308 Win. Original work on this cartridge was done by Kurt Buchert, who called it the 7.62×40 USA. With Buchert’s blessing, Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat took the concept and made it a functional reality.

Why? We’ll get to that. Folks have been trying to put bigger bullets and more power into an AR-15 for a long time for both military and sporting purposes. Examples include the 6.5 Grendel, the 6.8 Rem. SPC and the big, shoulder-smacking .450 Bushmaster. None have seen big-time success, but all have cult-like followings among users who believe they’re the answer to all things ballistic. Admittedly, I dote over the .30 Rem. AR, which I find to be the most powerful and ballistically balanced cartridge you can fire from an AR-platform rifle.

One problem is all these cartridges require not just a new barrel, but also a new bolt, possibly a new buffer and buffer spring, a new magazine and in some cases, even a new upper receiver. This makes conversions more costly and less appealing. With the 7.62×40 WT, all you need is a new barrel and a Wilson Combat-modified Lancer L5 AWM 5.56 magazine (though some unmodified AR-15 magazines will work). Ballistically, it converts your AR-15 into a flatter-shooting .30-30 Win., which sort of answers the “why” question.

Wilson began developing the 7.62×40 WT after studying the ballistics offered by the .300 AAC Blackout. He wanted a cartridge that would give optimum supersonic performance with lighter .30-caliber bullets, instead of the 220-grain projectiles for which the .300 AAC Blackout was designed.

“After experimenting with the .300 Blackout, I concluded the cartridge case really needed to be 39 to 40 mm long to work properly with common 110- to 125-grain, .30-caliber bullets,” said Wilson. (The .300 AAC Blackout case is about 35 mm long.) “Don’t take me wrong, I’m not anti-.300 Blackout. I just firmly believe it’s a subsonic-only cartridge.”

Wilson established his reputation by building superb custom 1911 pistols, but Wilson Combat also makes wonderful ARs. He is not just a competitive shooter with a tactical mindset; he is also an avid hunter. At present, Wilson may be doing more to help solve the feral hog problem in Texas using an AR-15 than anyone.

He discovered 125-grain Sierra Pro-Hunter and 125-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets actually performed more like controlled-expansion bullets at 7.62×40 WT impact velocities. After guiding hunters to more than 60 hog kills, Wilson believes, “With the same shot placement, the 7.62×40 WT works about like a 6.8 SPC and runs cleaner than it or the .30 Rem. AR when suppressed.”

Based on 7.62×40 WT testing I conducted using Wilson Combat ammunition, 125-grain bullets leave a 16-inch barrel at around 2,400 fps and a 20-inch barrel at 2,500 fps. This equates to velocities high enough to generate bullet expansion at 250 yards. If zeroed 1.5 inches high at 100 yards, drop at 250 yards is less than 10 inches. These are great short-range ballistics—perfect for hunting or a utility/survival rifle. With the wide variety of available .30-caliber bullet options, moderate-range tactical applications are virtually endless.

Granted, the ballistics are similar to the Soviet 7.62×39 mm cartridge used in AK-platform rifles. However, converting an AR to the Russian cartridge requires a new barrel, bolt and magazine. What’s more, that particular cartridge has a dismal history of poor reliability in AR-platform rifles. Additionally, since factory 7.62×39 mm ammunition is loaded with bullets having diameters between 0.308 inch and the original spec of 0.311 inch, accuracy can be less than inspiring.

Wilson Combat offers complete rifles, upper receivers, barrels and five different factory loads for the 7.62×40 WT, but it’s unclear whether others will follow suit. Given the usefulness of this cartridge, it wouldn’t surprise me if more AR manufacturers got on board, and Wilson expects no royalties to follow his lead.

Ammunition availability is the risk with any new cartridge—demand drives the train. The good news is, unlike some other new cartridges, 7.62×40 WT brass is easily made from .223 Rem. cases.

The 7.62×40 WT has become Wilson’s go-to cartridge at the ranch, but of course some folks will never get the concept. Despite what one unenthusiastic blogger has said about the round, an AR chambered for the 7.62×40 WT is lighter, more powerful, flatter shooting, harder hitting and infinitely more versatile than a .30-30 Win. lever action, whether you are hunting or fighting. It’s also a great youth deer rifle or police patrol rifle.

There’s no doubt the AR is America’s favorite rifle. Wilson Combat just made it more useful and, dare I say, better.

Shotguns may be the most versatile weapons on the face of the planet. When loaded with the right ammunition, the modern scattergun can effectively drop everything from tiny upland quail to charging, big-bodied bruins.

By using the best 12-gauge slugs, you can turn a simple shotgun into an impressively accurate powerhouse. The trick is matching your slugs to your shooting application.

Whether you’re looking for slugs for whitetails, dangerous game, home defense, or high-stakes competition, we’re here to help.

RIFLED VS. SABOT SLUGS

Most modern shotgun slugs fall into one of two categories – rifled slugs and sabot (pronounced “SAY-bo”) slugs.

Rifled slugs are designed to be used in smoothbore shotguns. The rifled slug’s defining feature is a set of exterior grooves that resemble barrel rifling. Unlike barrel rifling, the slug’s grooves do not spin the projectile. Instead, the channels allow the slug to compress slightly so it can fit through a shotgun’s choke tube.

Sabot slugs lack the rifled slug’s exterior grooves because they are designed to be used in shotguns with rifled barrels or with a smoothbore paired with a rifled choke.

The sabot isn’t the slug at all. The word actually refers to the plastic sleeve surrounding the projectile. As the slug travels down the barrel, the sleeve contacts the rifling, causing the whole package to spin. After the slug exits the barrel, the sleeve falls away, but the projectile continues to spin like a football, which results in better in-flight stability.

Accuracy and Energy

Sabot slugs, with their gyroscopic spin, are generally more accurate than rifled slugs – but not by much. A rifled slug can travel a good 400 yards, but it drops pretty rapidly once it passes the 100-yard mark. Hitting a target beyond that is tricky, and a rifled slug isn’t carrying a ton of kinetic energy past that point anyway.

Sabots have a slightly longer effective range, typically around 125 to 150 yards, although some designs can stretch to 200 yards. The sabot’s football-like spin and higher ballistic coefficient make it slower to shed speed.

Rifled slugs, with their blocky cylindrical profiles and exterior grooves, aren’t nearly as aerodynamic as the sleeker, more pointed sabot slug. Because it holds velocity better than a rifled slug, sabot slugs also retain more energy as it travels down range.

BEST SLUGS FOR HUNTING

While a rifle will always be ballistically superior to even the most cutting-edge shotgun load, slugs do have a place in the hunting world. They are highly effective at typical whitetail ranges, especially when hunting big woods (think inside of 100 yards).

Also, because slug velocity and power peter out past 200 yards, slugs are a safer option than a rifle when hunting in populated areas. In fact, several Midwest states limit deer season to shotguns only for that very reason.

If you plan to use your 12-gauge to punch big game tags this hunting season, here are some of the best options on the market.

Federal Premium TruBall Rifled Slug

Federal TruBall slugs have been putting venison in family freezers for decades. Designed for smoothbore scatterguns, the TruBall system features a plastic ball positioned between the wad and the slug. The design helps keep the slug centered in the barrel. The components separate at the muzzle.

The TruBall system helps these rifled slugs perform more like a sabot, and the company claims they deliver 1.4-inch groups at 50 yards, which is pretty freakin’ impressive for rifled slugs.

Hornady American Whitetail Slug

Loaded with a 325-grain Hornady InterLock bullet, American Whitetail slug loads deliver excellent weight retention and massive expansion. The hollow point projectiles feature a tough copper jacket surrounding a serrated lead alloy core. These babies are tough enough for the biggest-bodied whitetails in North America. They can even be used to bag close-range elk and muleys.

The loads also feature a rigid polycarbonate sabot with a unique buffer disc that delivers serious accuracy. If you need to stretch the effective range of your shotgun, this is the way to do it. Hornady says their American Whitetail slugs carry enough power and accuracy to drop bucks beyond 200 yards.

Winchester Super X

Winchester Super X loads have a reputation for offering reliable performance at a super-affordable price point, and their slugs are no different. The line-up includes 12-gauge rifled slugs and sabot slugs.

If you don’t want to invest a ton of cash, but still want serious knock-down performance, these are the loads you want with you in the deer woods.

Brenneke Black Magic Magnum Slugs

Sometimes when we’re in the woods, we run into things bigger and more dangerous than whitetail deer. These 602-grain slugs are designed for just such an encounter.

Brennecke’s hefty slugs have notched ribs and a lead point to guarantee seamless passage through your shotgun choke. These slugs leave the muzzle at over 1500 fps and are still packing 1219 foot-pounds of power at 100 yards.

BEST SLUGS FOR HOME DEFENSE

Slugs are regularly used for deer hunting, especially in rifle-restricted states. Deer and humans aren’t all that different. They share similar body weights and depth to vital organs. When we boil defensive shooting down to pure biology, if slugs are effective for deer, they should be just as effective on nefarious bad guys.

However, there are a lot more factors to consider in a home defense scenario than basic biology.

While you might use a slug to drop a monster buck at 75 yards, most home intruders are engaged at close range, usually inside five yards, which is about the typical length of a suburban hallway.

A heavyweight slug has tons of penetration power, which is the main reason big game hunters use them. While penetration is a positive when you’re hunting whitetails, it can be a major liability in a home defense situation. At close range, a 12-gauge slug will smash through anything in its way, plowing through furniture, doors, drywall, and wall studs, and still have enough energy to eff up a body standing on the other side.

Needless to say, shooting a slug inside your home could cause serious collateral damage.

With all that said, modern ammo technology is a marvelous thing. Ammo engineers are constantly pushing the envelope when it comes to defensive ammo, and a few companies offer shotgun slugs designed specifically for defensive shooting. These loads are made to deliver effective stopping power, while minimizing the chance of dangerous over-penetration.

Still, this isn’t our top choice for home defense. But if you want to use slugs, here is what we like.

Winchester Elite Defender Segmented Rifled Slug

Winchester has several innovative loads for home defense, and one of the most appealing is their Defender Series segmented rifled slug. This one-ounce piece of lead has strategic notching on both the exterior and inside the hollow-point cavity. On impact, the slug separates into three segments to compensate for aiming errors and maximize internal damage.

The fragmentation slows the projectile, which helps minimize over-penetration, making them a somewhat safer option when confronting bad guys, especially in situations where your kids are sleeping in the next room.

Winchester PDX-1 Defender Rifled Slug/Buckshot Combo

Winchester’s Defender line also includes a unique load that contains both a one-ounce rifled slug and three pellets of 00 buckshot. The load is engineered to compensate for aiming errors that often occur during adrenaline-pumping encounters, especially for inexperienced shotgunners. Because the load has extra pellets, it is still possible (at least theoretically) to hit the target even if the slug misses.

There are still some penetration issues with this load, so it may not be the best option for defensive shooting in populated areas like apartment buildings or cookie-cutter suburban neighborhoods.

BEST SLUGS FOR 3-GUN COMPETITION

Most 3 Gun matches require shooters to use both birdshot and slugs. However, using a run-of-the-mill hunting slug is going to bruise your shoulder and leave you frustrated. Low-recoil options designed specifically for competition will help increase accuracy and speed up your shot times.

Here are some options to get you started.

Fiocchi 3 Gun Legacy Series

Italian-owned Fiocchi makes a low-recoil slug designed specifically for 3 Gun competition. Fiocchi 3 Gun Legacy Series loads were engineered with the help of American professional speed and competition shooter, Jerry Miculek.

Packed with a 7/8-ounce rifled slug coated in red Teflon, these loads are designed to produce minimal smoke so you can pop off quick-succession shots with an unobstructed view of your target.

The slug works best in a smoothbore and leaves the muzzle at a healthy 1300 feet per second.

Fiocchi loaded these slugs in clear, easy-to-identify hulls, so you won’t mix them up with your buckshot loads on the competition field. They also feature a radiused crimp for super-fast reloads.

B&P Competition 3 Gun Slug

Baschieri & Pellagri have been producing top-quality shotgun ammo since 1885. To say these guys know their way around a shotshell is a major understatement. The company’s 3 Gun slugs are specially engineered to deliver consistently reliable performance, pinpoint accuracy, and reduced recoil.

LOOSE ROUNDS

With the best 12-gauge slugs, you can increase the accuracy, power, penetration, and range of your shotgun. As with all shotgunning applications, the key is pairing the right type of slug with your shooting needs.

READY FOR MORE?

• 12-Gauge Vs 20-Gauge Shotguns: Does Size Matter?
• Best Pump-Action Shotgun: Field & Home Defense [2022]
• Best Semi-Auto Shotguns [2022 Buyer’s Guide]
• Best Tactical Shotgun For Home Defense [2022]

According to www.dictionary.com, cull means “to choose, select or pick”. In other words, deer culling is when a human decides which animal is being taken from the herd. By definition, deer culling is not much different from hunting.

Why use Deer Culling?

There are a few reasons why a deer herd would be culled:

• Herd Reduction
• Deer and vehicle collisions
• Property damage
• Disease Control

Herd Reduction

Herd reduction is often used within urban areas and forest preserves. This type of deer culling normally involves sharp shooters. The goal is to reduce the size of the herd to prevent things like starvation and incest.

Herd reduction does come with quite a hefty price tag. The cost of these deer culls can run from around $340 per deer to $740 per deer. The overall price of herd reduction culling can easily run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. (1)

Deer and vehicle collisions

Deer and vehicle collisions are a common occurrence in Illinois and result in vehicle damage and injury, including death, to some drivers. Due to the relationship between deer populations and vehicle/deer accidents, the State of Illinois works with insurance companies when determining the states deer herd objectives. While it is controversial, deer culling has been shown to lowered the number of deer and vehicle collisions.

Property Damage

Property damage is a serious issue to Illinois farmers and homeowners. A whitetail deer can consume an average 7 pounds of food per day which equates to 2,555 pounds per year. This can be devastating to a farmer’s revenue earned from his crops.

Residential damage occurs also. Valuable trees and plants can be damaged when a whitetail has turn to them for a food source after their natural habitat has been eaten.(2)

Agricultural damage

There are a three ways in which deer are culled from these properties.

1. The issuing of nuisance tags to the property owner giving them the ability to cull the deer
2. Allowing hunters access to the property
3. Using sharpshooters provided by the state

Urban Damage

With urban/residential damage, sharpshooters are normally used. Only in rare instances, urban hunting zones are established.

Disease Control

This type of deer culling is used in areas where disease is threatening the herd. Control methods in this situation depends on the state. Sharpshooters and traditional hunting methods are often used together to gather information on the disease. After the information is gathered, further action is decided upon.

Deer culling and the future of the Illinois deer herd

Deer culling is an important issue and seems to be a controlling factor with the number of deer in Illinois. We have talked to many people on the subject ranging from hunters to employees of the Illinois DNR. In the near future we will be publishing articles containing interviews that give different angles and viewpoints on the subject of deer culling in Illinois.

The coming sections will include an interview with Jeff O’hare who runs the Facebook page “Stop the Illinois DNR so the Herd Can Grow”. This posts will offer very interesting insight on CWD and what is happening here in Illinois from the perspective of some Illinois hunters.

The final section will be an interview of Doug Dufford, Wildlife Disease and Invasive Species Program Manager for the IDNR. These different perspectives on the CWD and deer culling will allow for greater insight to this area!!

References

1. http://www.cleveland.com/solon/index.ssf/2013/12/solon_continues_deer_culling_t.html
2. http://www.northamericanwhitetail.com/land-management/deermanagement_wt_202foodplots/

As some of you may remember, I did the majority of the electrical work in the tiny house. I had a professional help me initially set up the breaker box, as well as wire in the tankless water heater. But I did the rest of the work.

I’ve been having problems recently with one of the GFCI outlets tripping.

Outside the tiny house are two pine trees. I have lights strung across them that are on a timer, so they turn on at dusk every evening. It’s quite delightful.

The timer is connected to an extension cord that has room for three plugs in it. It’s made for outdoors, for plugging in Christmas tree lights. The extension cord is plugged into the troublesome GFCI.

When I took the box holding the GFCI apart, I did see some water damage. So I figured the outlet had been exposed to water and had possibly shorted out. I replaced it with a new outlet.

However, I couldn’t get the circuit to work.

So I started checking everything else.

Guess what I found in one of the plug holes of the extension cord?

Half of a crispy fried slug.

No wonder that GFCI outlet had been tripping! So I think I found the initial cause of my problems. Hadn’t figured out everything though.

I have six outlets on that circuit/fuse. When I flipped the power on, the first outlet still showed as live, with power running through it. (I have a voltage detector for outlets.) The second outlet did not have any power running through it.

Hmmmm.

So I took that outlet apart.

Because there are six outlets, I have wires coming in as well as going out of the outlet (line and load). This also means two ground wires. But there’s only the one green ground screw on an outlet. And it’s a pain in the ass to try to connect both wires to the single green ground screw.

Instead, I “pigtail” the ground wires together, generally using a wire nut. Basically, I connect the line and the load wires together with a third short wire, called the pigtail wire. You use an electric wing nut to twist the three wires together. Then you connect the singular pigtail wire to the green ground screw on the outlet.

Seemed that current had run up the ground wire from the faulty GFCI outlet and fried the pigtail wire in the wing nut. This is a good thing. Much better to fry that then to fry the outlet. Or the house.

So I replaced the pigtail wire and wing nut, reconnected the outlet, and ta dah! The circuit works and I have power again on that side of the tiny house.

I have also now covered up the extra plug holes on the extension cord with duct tape. No more crispy fried slug!

Electrical work always takes longer than I think it will. But I’m quite pleased that I can do it and figure this stuff out.

What have you done recently that was complicated, but worth the effort?

I started using jigs for trout here in eastern Washington a few years ago.

First as a novel alternative to heavily pressured trout, then as I discovered their versatility and raw effectiveness, they became my out-of-the-truck first shot go-to for all trout species.

In all the lakes I happen to be at the time, large or small, from April to November, jigs catch trout of all sizes as well, or dare I say better than most techniques. Best of all, it gets the attention of larger fish with regularity. So it made perfect sense to me to bring my plethora of jigs with me on a spring trip to western Montana last April.

Turns out, jigs work well over there in all types of water, not just lakes, but rivers as well. And no one, I mean no one is using these things in Big Sky rivers.

Recently transplanted 35 year ex-Forks steelhead guide JD Love and I were floating a few rivers near his new home in western Montana last early spring, and once again in mid-October. The rivers we targeted are no secret; they are some of the more famous trout streams on the planet.

The Jefferson below the mouth of the Big Hole; the big Missouri below the confluence of the Jefferson, Madison and Gallatin; the Madison just above the entrance of Ennis Lake. Even smaller streams like the Beaverhead and Ruby, which we fished from shore, all just a short hike from the parking spot provided excellent jig fishing.

All feature a thousand wild trout per mile (or more) and all are more than famous for brown trout measured in pounds.

Let’s not forget the world record brown trout was caught on a twitched jig.

Our last day of the season was spent floating the Jefferson from Twin Bridges to Silver Star access. It was Wild Kingdom that day; we saw a few moose (a little too close), a billion deer, partying packs of skunks and too many migratory waterfowl.

The jig of trout choice that day (water had 4 feet of visibility) was either a yellow or white ¼-ounce head with a #1 Gamakatsu jig hook; brown/light green hackle collar and 5” fire tiger rabbit strip tail. Lots of contrast, bright colors to show well in the deeper slots and faster water.

We hooked around 40 trout, mostly browns but a few rainbows that would have passes for small summer steelhead back home, including one about 7 pounds that fought like a Dean River steelhead. Most of the browns (and rainbows) in all the rivers we fished were 16 to 24 inches, biggest perhaps 5 pounds. All struck the jigs with a ravenous rip-down.

My “new thang” is large brown trout.

You know we river rats love a new challenge; mine somehow morphed to finding large, wary fish-eating trout on light gear. And since we really don’t have that many brown trout fisheries around my house in eastern Washington, some travel is necessary. Just so happens I now have a great friend who lives a 9-iron shot (and guided there for years in the 70s) from the best brown trout rivers on North America.

Montana trout fishers, fly tossers in particular, have a jones for large brown trout.

Sure, they take big dries and nymphs as well as any trout, but the real kings of the riffles want a steak, not a peanut. As you will find out from the many articles and just conversations with trout fishers, the largest browns will chase and strike something that is almost 1/3 the length of their body.

That is why when you see a guide boat float by bets are there are at least two fly rods on board rigged with 4- to 6-inch gaudy, articulated streamer flies for targeting the rulers of the river.

Big wily browns seem to strike brightly colored jigs a bit more than natural-toned.

Trout seem to strike out of curiosity at these big jigs. This may be why a bright attractor pattern is more effective than a natural one. The trick to getting the largest ones is not so much “matching the hatch,” but showing them a possible large meal when they want it. If a 10 pounder just ate a 12-inch whitefish, he is not eating (striking) again until hungry.

Timing is everything, and covering as much water as possible in a day gives you the best odds of finding one that just strapped on the feed bag.

Gear anglers also know this, as you will see them tossing spinners, some spoons but primarily jointed similar-sized Rapalas to stir up the carnivorous larger browns, and even rainbows. But no jig tossers in any of the rivers. You may think, the natural progression from a large streamer would be a jig tied similar. Nope.

After speaking with several long time guides, plus dialing up the ol’ Internet looking for information, remarkable as it may seem there is just nothing on the subject. If those anglers are out there, there are either very few or they are well hidden and secretive.

Plenty of info on jig twitching in general in lakes or fishing tiny jigs in rivers…tossing big rabbit jigs for trophy browns in rivers, zilch. I really could not believe it, but a light bulb, flickering and fizzling as it was, lit up.

Knowing this, I returned home to the fly vise and did some modifications on the standard-issue trout jig. My working-class jigs are primarily 1/8 to ¼ ounce with hackle body/marabou tails, the whole jig approximately 3 to almost 4 inches. These are marvelous attractors for cutthroat, rainbow, and brook trout; hundreds of great trout have gripped these for me the last 5 years.

Taking a leaf from the streamer fisher’s bible, I made something that mimics the big streamers so popular in Montana and other rivers that feature outsized browns. Except the jig, having a concentrated weight on its head, sinks faster than any sink tip and can be presented where and when a fly, no matter how it is weighted, cannot. Enter the rabbit strip jig.

As we all know, nothing in the water is as life-like as rabbit. Marabou is close, and it is a fine addition (collars, etc.) to a rabbit strip. Jig twitching is all about the world of swimming prey. Big brown trout are meat-eaters; they can ingest (and will attack) something that is 1/3 the size of their bodies.

Whether that prey is small fish, like trout or sculpins, darting crayfish, big leeches or even snakes, they all swim erratically. That is why an undulating, wiggling “breathing” rabbit strip jig pretty much is unbeatable if you want a gimme shot at Ike.

Let’s look at rods, reels, lines for jigging in rivers for large trout, then a bit on techniques for fishing big bunny jigs in rivers.

The Gear

Short, fast action ultra-light rods are key when casting/presenting jigs. My choice is a GLoomis ultra-light spin rod. It loads fast with 1/8- to ¼-ounce jigs, casts and sets hooks with deceptive power. I’ve landed trout to 12 pounds on it and never felt under gunned. Put a Shimano Stradic on it, fill it with 10 pound (fishes heavier) yellow V2 Slick Power Pro, and place a 7-foot top shot of 12-pound high-quality fluorocarbon with a uni knot.

Line shyness is rarely a factor, do yourself a favor and “beef up” that top shot, nothing less than 10-pound test. The super line does not stretch; its 6-pound test mono diameter is perfect for longer casts, spool capacity, amazing feel, and hook sets that mono can’t touch. This outfit or one similar is ideal for tossing/twitching jigs either in a river or in lakes.

I try to keep three rods in the raft/drift boat rigged with jigs of slightly different color schemes, for example, one with white head with brown/green hackle body/fire tiger bunny strip tail; yellow head/dark red hackle body/fire tiger bunny tail and black head/brown hackle body/olive black stripe bunny tail. I’m not a fan of using any type of flash in my jig patterns but if you want, go for it. What isn’t tried won’t work.

The Technique

For smaller rivers, requiring shorter casts and/or shallower holding areas in larger rivers, a 1/8-ounce jig head is all you need.

For example, in the shallow/riffly Madison a 1/8-ounce head got down immediately in the mostly shallow riffly runs, while a ¼-ounce was necessary in the bigger Jefferson and Madison when longer casts and deeper spots are the norm. Read your water, adjust accordingly.

Now you are on one of those famous rivers.

Where do I look for trout? First, unplug your steelheading brain and leave it in the truck. Those gorgeous, long sweeping gravel bars, transitioning from shallow slow flows out to deeper, faster water… forget it. Nobody home.

Only whitefish, sculpin and small juveniles will be there in the “steelhead” transition water. This drove me batcrap nuts looking at all those juicy runs that hold no fish.

These trout live right next to cut banks, near woody debris and slack water side channels (like coho salmon love). If there is no other deepwater escape (like the primarily riffle configured Madison) then look for structure of any type.

If I had to pick one type of water to concentrate on, it would be cut banks.

That is where the insects and small creatures fall off the grasses into the water, plus the best cover. When targeting cut banks, try to position yourself as close to the bank as you can without spooking fish. Casting upstream parallel to the bank allows the jig to stay in the “loaded” water longer. Rather than casting toward the bank and retrieving the jig away, it stays in the strike zone for far more of the presentation.

Before making a cast or beginning a presentation, keep this in the front of the brain at all times: All injured, disoriented creatures move downstream at some pace because they cannot fight the current, or escaping from a predator is far more likely to be successful going swiftly with the current than attempting to go against. Cast upstream from your position whenever possible; this allows the jig to sink unimpeded by current, allowing it to drop into target water as swift as possible.

Your jig should land as close as possible to cut banks, submerged/partially submerged trees, boulders, and edges of back water. Large trout, any trout, will be tight up against this structure/drop off. Work it back, at or slightly slower than current speed back to your position, much like a spinner for summer steelhead. Don’t be too fast to begin your presentation, as this causes the jig to leave the “sweet spot” quickly.

Allow it to drop as close as possible to the bottom as well.

The best part about casting jigs is there is virtually no water that cannot be fished.

Skinny slack edges, plunge pools, long riffles, you name it, the jig works there. Do try to keep the jig near the bottom but try to avoid rapid banging, as all this does is kill the action, chips off all your head paint, and greatly increases the chance for snagging up and losing your jig.

The classic “twitch/drop/twitch/drop/reel” will get bit, but try not to be too robotic or lazy. A short, swift movement of the rod tip will be all you need to impart plenty of action to the jig. Long, up-sweeping motions rarely work. Try to shake up the rhythm of your retrieve, because nothing injured swims in rhythm. They can go side to side, wiggle rapidly, dart several feet, or a few inches. So, there is not one tried and true method of “twitching” for big river trout. There are not two, or five either.

Different speed of retrieve, all through the water column. Try a drift, casting upstream from your position. Pretend its 1985; you have a chunk of pencil lead on and a Corky. Keep the jig just above the bottom, “glide” it along at current speed and impart zero action. Something different is often what works. Regardless of the type of presentation, try to keep a slight bow in the line, never slack but never taught, as if you were spoon fishing. This allows more imparted action to the jig. Also, try and move the rod tip a foot or so rapidly side-to-side when retrieving; it will add a zigzag motion to the jig.

And here’s something I learned after missing too many really large Montana browns- do not give up on a presentation until the jig is ready to be lifted out for the next cast.

I’ve had great fish swirl at the jig just before lifting it out for the next cast. Before you pull the lure out of the water, let it hang and wiggle a bit a few feet off the rod tip. Surprise! That is when you will be glad for at least 12-pound test shock tippet off that braid.

The biggest rainbow I’ve ever caught in Montana was seven pounds, it gripped the jig inches under the water immediately before I was about to re-cast. I peed a little.

When you find yourself in western Montana- and I hope you do- if you just want to catch a lot of trout with the chance for a larger one, toss 1/6th oz. silver bladed/yellow bodied Rooster Tails or smaller, natural-toned jigs. Or indicator fish with a fly rod with weighted nymphs if you really want some numbers.

Casting/retrieving an F-9 rainbow trout pattern Rapala will also get big fish eating browns, but they are not as versatile in ability to hit virtually any type of water like a jig. But remember- big fish, big lure.

And how did we do, last spring and fall twitching large rabbit/marabou jigs for aggressive, carnivorous browns? Well first, check out the pictures smattered around this article and just know there were plenty of players in all the places we fished.

There are so many more rivers, even many other stretches of the same ones we fished that crowding I promise will never be an issue. Even if there are some folks floating in front of you, know that none of them will be twitching big rabbit jigs. They will be nymphing with an indicator or stripping large flies on fly rods.

The novel alternative will always be in your favor. It’s so fun in fact I’m going back to western Montana in 2020 not once but half a dozen times…with 100 newly tied rabbit jigs.

My ten-pound brown is waiting….

– written by Bill Herzog

Deer hunting rifle opinions are one of the most favored talked about conversations in the hunting community. And honestly it should be as choosing the right caliber is incredibly important when going after a whitetail.

A lot of hunters prefer larger calibers like the .30/30, the .30/06 or the 7mm; however, there are some out there that favor something a bit smaller. As a result, the .223 rifle has become an increasingly popular choice for deer hunting in recent years.

So if you’re asking if you can kill a deer with a .223, the answer is yes!

In this blog, I’m going to discuss the reasons why hunters choose to use a .223 rifle for deer hunting, as well as some tips for getting the most out of this versatile firearm. Let us know what caliber you’re going to use this year in the comments section below.

A Little Bit About The .223 Cartridge

The .223 cartridge, also known as the 5.56x45mm NATO, is a small-caliber, high-velocity round that was first introduced in the 1960s. While originally designed for military use, the .223 cartridge has since become popular with hunters due to its light recoil, flat trajectory, and high velocity. The .223 cartridge typically fires a 55-grain bullet at velocities of around 3,000 feet per second, making it an excellent choice for long-range shooting.

.223 Bullet Weight and Velocity Chart

Bullet Weight (grains) Velocity (feet per second) 40 3,800 45 3,500 50 3,400 55 3,200 60 3,100 62 3,000 69 2,900 77 2,750

Pros Of Using A .223 Rifle For Deer Hunting

While some hunters prefer larger caliber rifles, there are several advantages to using a .223 rifle for deer hunting. One of the main advantages is that the .223 rifle is lightweight and easy to carry, making it an excellent choice for hunters who need to cover a lot of ground during a hunt. Additionally, the .223 cartridge has a flat trajectory, which means that it retains its velocity over long distances and is less affected by wind drift than other cartridges.

Another advantage of using a .223 rifle for deer hunting is that the light recoil of the cartridge makes it easier to shoot deer accurately, especially for younger or less experienced hunters. This can be a major factor in improving a hunter’s success rate when hunting deer.

Source

Tips For Deer Hunting With A .223

When using a .223 rifle for deer hunting, there are several important tips to keep in mind to ensure success. First and foremost, it’s important to select the right bullet for the job. While the .223 cartridge is capable of taking down a deer, it’s important to use a bullet that is designed for hunting, such as a soft point or hollow point bullet. These types of bullets are designed to expand upon impact, delivering maximum energy to the target and ensuring a clean, ethical kill.

Another important consideration when using a .223 rifle for deer hunting is shot placement. The .223 cartridge is capable of delivering a lethal shot, but it’s important to aim for vital organs such as the heart and lungs to ensure a clean kill. This requires practice and precision, so it’s important to spend time at the shooting range to improve accuracy before heading out on a hunt.

Finally, it’s important to be patient when using a .223 rifle for deer hunting. While the cartridge is capable of taking down a deer, it may require more careful stalking and positioning to get into the optimal shooting position. This means taking the time to scout out the area, look for signs of deer activity, and wait for the right moment to take a shot.

What .223 Rifle Should You Pick For Deer Hunting

When selecting a .223 rifle for deer hunting, there are several excellent options to choose from. One popular choice is the Ruger American Ranch Rifle, which features a lightweight synthetic stock and a 16.1-inch barrel for easy maneuverability in the field. Another excellent option is the Savage Axis II XP, which comes with a mounted scope and an adjustable trigger for enhanced accuracy.

What’s The Difference Between A .308 vs .223 For Deer Hunting?

The main difference between a .308 and a .223 cartridge for deer hunting is their power and performance characteristics.

The .308 cartridge is a larger and more powerful round, typically firing a bullet in the 150-180 grain range at velocities of around 2,800-3,000 feet per second. The .308 has a higher bullet energy, greater bullet weight, and is capable of delivering more kinetic energy to the target than the .223. This makes the .308 a better choice for hunting larger game, including deer at longer distances, as it has greater stopping power and is more capable of taking down game quickly and humanely.

On the other hand, the .223 cartridge is a smaller and lighter round, typically firing a bullet in the 50-77 grain range at velocities of around 2,900-3,800 feet per second. The .223 has a lower bullet energy and lighter bullet weight, and is typically used for varmint hunting or target shooting. While the .223 can be used for deer hunting with appropriate shot placement and bullet selection, it is not recommended for larger game or longer distances due to its lower bullet energy and lighter weight.

In terms of recoil, the .308 generates more recoil than the .223 due to its larger cartridge size and more powerful load. This can make the .308 harder to shoot accurately for some shooters, particularly those with smaller frames or less experience with high-powered rifles.

Ultimately, the choice between a .308 and a .223 for deer hunting depends on a variety of factors, including the hunter’s experience and preference, the terrain and distance of the hunt, and the hunting regulations in the specific area. It is important to choose a cartridge that is appropriate for the size of game being hunted, and to select a bullet that is designed for hunting and will deliver effective and ethical results.

Most Important Things To Know About The .223

First, not every state allows you to deer hunt with a .223 rifle. According to StagArms, the following states have outlawed this:

Colorado, Connecticut, Illinois, Iowa, Massachusetts, Virginia, Ohio, New Jersey, Washington, and West Virginia

Additionally, when deer hunting with a .223 rifle, it is crucial that an appropriate bullet and shot placement is chosen to ensure an ethical and humane harvest.

While the .223 cartridge is capable of taking down deer-sized game with proper shot placement and bullet selection, it is important to choose a bullet that is designed for hunting, such as a soft point or hollow point, which will expand upon impact and transfer energy to the animal. It is also important to consider the distance of the shot, as the .223 cartridge is not recommended for long-range shots on deer.

Final Thoughts On Hunting With A .223 Rifle

And that pretty much wraps up all you need to know about the infamous .223. While the .223 rifle may not be the first choice for all hunters, it is a versatile and capable firearm that can be an excellent option for deer hunting in the right circumstances.

By understanding the capabilities of the .223 cartridge, selecting the right rifle and ammunition, and practicing good shot placement and patience in the field, hunters can increase their chances of success when using a .223 rifle for deer hunting. As with any hunting pursuit, it’s important to always follow local laws and regulations, prioritize safety, and respect the animal being hunted.

Do you know How Much Wind Is Too Much For Deer Hunting? Well we have found the answer!