The tiny .410 bore may be the smallest caliber shotgun widely available to the public, but it is still an incredibly effective hunting tool. Countless generations of hunters have gotten their start with a .410 thanks to the round’s low recoil. In recent years, advancements to .410 ammo have increased the speed, power, and effectiveness of these tiny shotshells all without creating a larger blow to the wallet. It’s not uncommon to find factory .410s for less than 50 cents per round these days, which is something in this economy. You can’t even get a candy bar for that these days.

There are also plenty of hunters out there who are returning to the .410 simply because they’re looking for a new challenge after having done it all with a 12- or 20-gauge. The smaller spread can make sporting clays fun again if you’ve mastered the other calibers. The .410 has also really taken off for turkey hunting as new modern loads have upped the range and power significantly. We know a self-defense market has also taken off for .410, but today we’re going to focus solely on .410 shotgun ammunition for hunting or clays purposes. These are the options we look for first whenever we head afield with an old .410 bore, and they’ll suit you well in your outdoor adventures, too.

The Best Rifled Slug for .410

Winchester Super-X .410 Gauge

Pros:

• Reliable, fast .410 slug.
• 2½- and 3-inch options.
• Packs a punch on smaller game

Cons:

• More expensive than other .410 rounds
• Doesn’t really have the kinetic energy for deer

While most hunters likely don’t think of using slugs with a .410, the proof is in the ballistics of the Super-Xs. Winchester manufactures both a 2½-inch, 1/5-ounce version and a 3-inch, ¼-ounce version of this hollow point, rifled slug. You’re looking at about 1,800 fps of muzzle velocity, which is nothing to sneeze at for a shotgun caliber this small. One area of caution we’ll note is the use of these slugs on deer. We’d advise against it, even if .410 is legal in your state. That’s because the muzzle energy is only 788 foot-pounds, and it slows to 403 foot-pounds at 50 yards, and 234 foot-pounds at 100 yards. And, yes, we do know that hunters have harvested deer with .410s before. However, we like to keep to a minimum kinetic energy of at least 1,000 foot-pounds. That said, we thought the Super-X deserved a spot on this list because it’s a dynamite round for coyotes and smaller feral hogs at close distances. I also like this round for pest control. It’ll do a real number on annoying woodchucks or other pests that are tearing up your backyard. In truth, I like these slugs for those mid-sized varmints better than a .22 or other rimfire. It just ends with a quicker, cleaner kill, which is something all hunters should strive for. At $7.99 for a box of five or $21.99 for 15, these rounds are a little more expensive than some other options, but they’ll get the job done for you effectively.

The Best Dual-Purpose Round

Remington American Clay & Field

Pros:

• Dual-purpose round perfect for field and clay
• Quality primer
• Low price point
• Hulls are perfect for reloading

Cons:

• Limited amount of shot sizes available

Shooters know Remington is one of the brands to go to for affordability and reliability, and the American Clay & Fields are a nice option that covers both of those bases. We’ve seen these rounds on sale for just over 50 cents a round if you catch them at the right time. These are lead shot loads that use Remington’s popular STS primers. The muzzle velocity is approximately 1,275 fps for these rounds that are meant for both hunting and clay shooting. It’s nice to seamlessly go from one passion to another without having to adjust for a different round in between. Remington makes these shells in No. 9 and 8 shot sizes with a shell length of 2½ inches respectively. In a hunting scenario, we like the No. 8 shells for doves and pigeons on private lands where lead shot is legal to use. For skeet and clay, we like the No. 9 option as a target load. It’s hard to go wrong with either of these game loads. Normally priced, these rounds go for about $17.99 a box, which isn’t bad for 24 shotgun shells. Pick up a few at a time, and they’ll last you a few seasons of fun target and wing shooting.

The Best-Long Range Turkey Load

HeviShot Hevi-18 410 bore

Pros:

• Turkey-dropping power
• Long-range ability
• High pellet count for a .410

Cons:

• Extremely high price tag

Ammo manufacturers have really started to push the .410 to its limits to create some of the best turkey loads on the planet right now. If you start comparing specs, you’ll find some comparable ballistics to larger rounds coming from the tiny .410 with none of the nasty kick. Hevi-Shot makes these rounds in No. 7 and 9 shot sizes. The Hevi-18s use dense tungsten super shot (TSS) in place of lead. The cool thing about tungsten is that it’s heavier than lead, which allows hunters the opportunity to drop down shot sizes without losing effective range or stopping power. If you’re introducing a youngster to turkey hunting but are worried about bringing down a bird with a .410 bore, these are probably the best shells to consider. The muzzle velocity of these loads is about 1,090 fps. Another nice plus to these is that tungsten is often considered non-toxic in many places. That makes it an option for public lands. The huge downside to TSS rounds is the price. These rounds go for about $45 for a box of five, or roughly $9 a shell. These are probably the most expensive .410 shells on the market right now as a result. We realize these rounds aren’t for everyone; but for hunters who want to be able to reach out and bag those Toms that like to hang up at 30-40 yards from your setup, these shells will get the job done.

The Best Option for Waterfowl

Hevi-Shot Bismuth

Pros:

• Non-toxic shot for public land
• Denser than steel shot

Cons:

• Extremely tight pattern
• Price tag

You don’t hear about hunting waterfowl with a .410 bore too often. It’s not something that many hunters attempt. It’s understandable when you consider that many .410 guns meant for waterfowl come with a full choke installed. You often end up with an extremely tight pattern that makes the birds much harder to hit. For that reason, this is one instance where we don’t recommend a .410 for a beginner. Waterfowl hunting with a caliber this small is for the more advanced duck hunters who have already done it all with a 12- or 20-gauge and are looking for a better challenge. If you are going to hunt ducks with a .410, Hevi-Shot’s Heavy Bismuth shotgun ammo is the one to consider. It’s non-toxic, so you can use it on public land, and Bismuth is slightly denser than steel, which means it’s going to have better range and lethality in those scenarios. The only downside is that Bismuth is more expensive than steel. You’re looking at about $55 for a box of 25, or about $2.25 a round. Not cheap, but also not too bad in the grand scheme of things. Especially when you factor in the hot velocity of 1,300 fps from the muzzle. Hevi-Shot offers these rounds in No. 4 and 6 shot sizes that will help you limit out and push your shooting skills to the limit.

The Best Budget Upland and Small Game Shells

Winchester Super-X Upland and Small Game

Pros:

• Wide variety of shot sizes
• Affordable
• Availability

Cons:

• Toxic shot
• Challenging for upland hunters

Again, you’ll hear about fewer hunters using .410 for upland game simply because the range and spread are greatly reduced when using one of these tiny shotguns. It can be done, but just like with waterfowl, it’s probably only best attempted by seasoned hunters who are ready for a new challenge. For small game such as squirrels and rabbits, however, it’s a little more doable. Winchester manufactures several high brass variants in .410 in shot sizes ranging from No. 4 to 7.5. I’ve also used the 11/16-ounce loads with No. 6 shot for a little pest control around the house in the past. I can personally attest to the knockdown power of the Super-X line, which is why I use it in nearly all of my firearms. The muzzle velocity is anywhere from 1,100 to 1,135 fps, depending on the shot size and load. There’s something here for almost every hunting scenario. Along with being ultra reliable, Super-X is surprisingly affordable. You’ll usually find it going for about $21 for a box of 25—around 88 cents a round. The other nice thing is the accessibility of these shells. They’re sold practically everywhere, and they’re often still on the shelf even during shortages. It all adds up toward making these some of our favorite general-purpose .410 bore shells to use each season.

The Best Dedicated Skeet and Sporting Clays Round

Federal Top Gun

Pros:

• Affordable dedicated skeet and clays round
• Reliable Federal primers
• Fast muzzle velocity

Cons:

• Something of a niche round

If you’re truly looking for a real challenge on the skeet or sporting clays range, switching over to a .410 is a sure way to do it. If you can get consistent with a .410 on clay targets, everything else will seem easy by comparison. Federal Premium makes what we think is the best quality dedicated target round in the Top Gun. They make a few variants, a No. 9, ½ shot charge, and a No. 6, 11/16 shot charge. The difference is the No. 6 shot rounds are about 200 fps faster. They are doing about 1,330 fps at the muzzle. There is also a No. 7.5, ½-ounce shot charge option that’s also doing the same speed. These are strictly for target shooting on private lands because they are lead. The other thing we love about these rounds is the affordability. They go for about $17.99 a box, or around 72 cents a round. It’s a nice option to get into competing without breaking the bank.

The Most Affordable Target Round

Aguila Competition

Pros:

• Wide array of shot sizes available
• Extremely affordable

Cons:

• Has a reputation for being dirty

Affordability is a big thing when you’re shooting a lot of shells for competition. Which is why we really like Aguila’s competition rounds. A 25-round box goes for around $16.99, or less than 70 cents a round. These would be a solid choice if you’re helping outfit one of the many clay shooting teams that are popping up as an extracurricular activity in schools across the country. Aguila makes its .410 options in 00B, 7 ½, 8, and 9 shot. The No. 9 shot options has a choice of a ½-ounce or ¾-ounce load. All the shot types are doing about 1,275 fps at the muzzle, which is not bad at all for the price point. Aguila also has a solid reputation for being reliable and accurate, both important aspects of competition. The downside to Aguila is that the ammo has a reputation for shooting extremely dirty almost universally across the whole line. But if you don’t mind a little extra cleaning, this is a solid option that won’t break the bank.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and Instagram For original videos, check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

READ MORE: THE 8 BEST .410 SHOTGUNS

We asked our hunters what their Top Five Dream Hunts would be. Some of their answers were… well, no brainers to be honest, but a few of them took us by surprise. If you would like to have us help you make one of your dream hunts a reality, one of our hunting consultants would love to help you out.

Cape Buffalo Hunting Safari

#1 in our Top 5 Dream Hunts survey, Cape buffalo hunting has drawn more people to go hunting in Africa than all the other Big Five combined.

Regarded as one of the most ill-tempered animals on the face of the earth, Cape buffalo hunts in Africa are extremely popular. We offer cape buffalo hunts in Botswana, Mozambique, South Africa, Tanzania, and Zimbabwe. What is great about an African Safari is the amazing amount of plains game species available to hunt in addition to dangerous game. If you want to hunt “Black Death,” be sure to have the right gear, research the best calibers. If you’re a bowhunter, take your archery gear very seriously. These animals are no joke!

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Shooting Doves in Argentina

Dream Hunt #2 kind of surprised us.

We thought that Argentina dove shooting would probably be in the top 10, but scoring #2 on our dream hunts survey?… didn’t expect that. That being said, dove hunting in Argentina is AMAZING! You can very easily shoot between 1,000 and 3,000 rounds per day!

If you’ve been thinking about doing an Argentina dove hunt, we have some great wingshooting for you. From the moment they pick you up at the airport, they do their best to make your trip to Argentina a safe, incredible and unforgettable experience. If you’d like to stay a little closer to home, we have some spectacular dove shooting in Mexico as well.

*While you’re in Argentina, you should check out the Golden Dorado River Cruiser. Just trust us on this one.

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Brown Bear Hunt

Brown bear hunting was #3 in our Top 5 Dream Hunts survey and they are available in Alaska, Kamchatka, and there are even Eurasian brown bear hunts.

Alaska brown bear hunting is at the top of most hunters’ lists, for good reason. Two of our favorites are an Alaska coastal brown bear hunt out of a luxury yacht, and the fall bear hunts (odd years) on the Alaska Peninsula.

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Trophy Elk Hunt

Elk hunting being dream hunt #4 on our dream hunts survey really didn’t surprise us.

Elk hunting is awesome, and if you haven’t experienced it, you should. We offer many different types of elk hunts including land owner tags, bow hunts, trophy hunts, hunting leases, private ranches, corporate hunts with large groups, and drop camps. There are so many cool options with elk hunting, it’s hard to choose a favorite hunt. If you would like to experience elk hunting for yourself, be sure to talk to one of our consultants.

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Moose

It was no surprise that moose made our top five dream hunts.

Moose hunting can be incredibly fun, and are one of the most sought after big game animals in the world. For beginning moose hunters, the most important thing to keep in mind is that moose are huge and can be VERY difficult to pack out of the field. Finding the right moose hunting outfitters is critical, both for your success and for the enjoyment of your hunt. We have LOTS of good moose hunts to choose from and you should talk to a consultant to see which one fits your needs best.

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What are your Top 5 Dream Hunts?

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Author: Hogman Team

When it comes to hog hunting, one of the most effective tactics you can employ to bring the animals out in the open is by using hog bait. While hog bait can be bought straight off the shelf at your local outdoors store, at HOGMAN-OUTDOORS we’ve had great success in creating our own DIY hog hunting bait. Check out our tips for drawing out feral hogs below.

HOGS ARE ONMIVORESBecause hogs are omnivores, meaning they eat both plants and animals, a wide variety of baits can be used to successfully draw them in to the open. And hogs think with their stomach – the saying isn’t “eat like a pig” for nothing – meaning they’ll readily come out of cover when they smell food. That being said…

NOT ALL BAITS ARE CREATED EQUALAlthough hogs aren’t picky eaters, there are some smells and flavors that will draw their attention more readily than others.

1. Stick to Something FamiliarSweet corn is a staple in hog baits, because hogs can easily recognize the smell. Corn will “sour” once soaked for several days, creating a smell that will attract hogs but keep other animals, such as deer, away. Additionally, corn is a versatile bait that can be used in all kinds of different mixes (corn + Kool-Aid; corn + Jell-O; corn + beer). Hogs also have a liking to pecans and acorns, which can be used in your bait mix, or around the feeder area.
2. Play Up the Sweet StuffIt’s no secret that hogs have a sweet tooth, so play up the sweet stuff to really attract their attention. As mentioned above, corn can be mixed with low-budget drink powders, such as Kool-Aid, or with sweet gelatin-flavored packets. Effective hog bait can be created by mixing corn with sugar and several packets of Kool-Aid or Jell-O, and letting the mix soak together for a while. Here’s a great recipe from the Georgia Department of Natural Resources that does just that:
   • 150 pounds of corn
   • 8 pounds of sugar
   • 1 packet of yeast
   • 4 or 5 packets of grape, strawberry, or raspberry flavored gelatin or drink powder. Place the corn in a 40 gallon metal trash can and fill it with water to 3 to 4 inches above the corn. Mix in all the other ingredients. Place the trash can in the sun with the lid secured. Stir it with a shovel or paddle daily for 10 to 14 days.

KNOW THE LAWKnow what’s allowed before you make your hog bait. The use of toxicants and chemicals in the baiting of feral hogs is illegal in all 50 states; additionally, check your local hunting regulations to ensure that baiting is allowed on public lands.

PRE-BAITPre-baiting is a great way to condition hogs to associate your feeder area with a food source. This involves leaving your bait out in the open for several days (or using an automatic feeder with a timer). This will encourage hogs to lower their defenses and become accustomed to the area, making it easier for you to slide in and make the kill.

Get hunting!

ADVANTAGE: HUNTER

The HOGMAN-OUTDOORS Game Alert® Hog Hunting Light is the new generation in hog hunting technology. The low-intensity, motion-activated, red LED light is magnetically attached under a hog feeder, and provides momentary (10-second) illumination only when movement is detected within a 200-yard perimeter. The discreet light allows for hunters to remain virtually undetected by prey, keeping them hidden until the moment strikes.

As a kid, we fished for largemouth bass in the summer. We’d catch the lion’s share of them around weed beds and shady docks. But every now and then I’d wake up early enough to tag along with the grownups to go smallmouth fishing. In the summer, our resident brown bass didn’t make many appearances after 8 a.m. But I can remember the sage advice from my mentors back then. Just wait until October, they’d say. That’s when the smallmouths really move in.

And they were right. Fall smallmouth trips were special times.

And they were right. Fall smallmouth trips were special times. Much of fishing remains a mystery to a youngster, and it’s the unknown factor that makes a great selling point. Now, as a more seasoned angler, I realize the smallmouth were there all along — just not in areas where we’d cross paths.

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But I also still believe in the power of autumn. I’ve fished for smallmouths all across the country and have found one solid rule: the colder it gets in the fall, the better they bite. Whether it’s water temps dropping to the 50s in Tennessee or ice forming on the Great Lakes, the decline in water temperature triggers a feeding spree among smallmouth bass.

Winter can be tough, and to survive and thrive, bass must put on as much weight as possible beforehand. In fact, studies have found that successful springtime spawns within smallmouth populations are often dependent on the previous fall’s feed.

Regardless, the fish are ready to eat, and we’re ready to be a part of that. We just need to get in the right areas.

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Tactic One: Shallow Rocks

Let’s start with the easiest and most obvious. Around much of the North, especially on bodies of water with a mix of rocks and vegetation, smallmouth bass are drawn to specific hard structures. Water temperatures are dropping, grass beds are dying off, and the remaining rocky areas attract solid food items like crawfish and perch. At times, a single large rock may hold a bruiser worthy of personal-best status. One of my largest bass, a fish eclipsing 7 pounds, came in this very scenario on a cold November day on New York’s Chautauqua Lake.

Here, it’s imperative to find the sweet spot. Big smallmouths are masters of their domain, and they know the best hunting grounds. Transitions, like where rocks meet sand or sand meets grass, are always best. Side-imaging depth-finders help, but many of these spots can be seen with a good pair of sunglasses on a nice day. Line up and make accurate casts, and repeat them — exactly – once fish are located.

It’s tough to beat a jig and plastic in this scenario. The best smallmouth options are a little lighter (around ¼ ounce) and more streamlined than a standard flipping jig. Stick to blacks and browns, and fish them on a long rod and 12-pound fluorocarbon. On particularly cold days, afternoons are best, once the rocks warm surrounding waters.

(Buy Alert: Gray Bass Long Sleeve Tee)

Tactic Two: Long Points

Across the Southeast, everything revolves around baitfish. Large shad schools tighten up and begin migrating to major creek arms on the country’s biggest reservoirs. Not surprisingly, bass follow. While largemouth bass have a reputation for getting in the skinniest of water, smallmouths in the same system usually remain in mid-depth, main lake areas. More comfortable as pack feeders than lone ambushers, smallmouths prefer to work schools of baitfish in groups.

Large points are great places to find these roving bands of bass. They key here is to first locate baitfish. Location will depend on the stage of the game: main lake in early fall, large creeks later on. Regardless, find the bait and you’ll find the bass. Look for large points with vast flats on top, and fish there early in the day with topwater baits. Nothing beats a walking bait for smallmouths. As the day progresses, bass will often move off the sides of points, especially if a creek channel intersects. If rocky or wood structure coincides, all the better. Deeper fish can be caught on cranks, jerkbaits, grubs and drop-shots. Occasionally, the topwater bite lasts all day. Remember to stay by the bait.

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Tactic Three: Bluff Banks

Our third strategy mimics the second. However, here, we want to find a place where schools of bass can pin baitfish. This is an incredible fishing opportunity when it presents itself. On many lakes with steep, bluff shorelines, smallmouths will hold on small shelves and rock piles waiting for baitfish to blow in. When that happens, the bass go berserk and massacre the minnows right up against the wall.

Again, it’s imperative to first find the baitfish, then find areas where wind or current will blow them against the bank. Even areas with strong winds producing noticeable waves against a bluff bank are still in play. Occasionally, a large sea-wall or the face of a dam will suffice. In any case, we’re looking for places where baitfish are being disoriented and facing a large object.

These spots are often snaggy, so a cast-and-retrieve bait is better than a bottom-bouncer. Swimbaits on a heavy jighead are great. Big bladed spinnerbaits come on strong once the water clouds up from wave action. At times, a Rat-L-Trap is all you need. Remember, this is an all-or-nothing method, so you’ll know right away if it’s working.

(Buy Alert: Red Fish Long Sleeve Tee)

Tactic Four: Great Lakes Basins

The big brown bass of the Great Lakes are a different breed. Sure, some come shallow in fall, but most stay deep and move deeper. In twenty-plus years of fishing the big waters, autumn was never underrated. Start your search where the best summer fishing occurred, and move deeper. Bass from adjacent structures will eventually meet up in one special area. Years ago, I coined these places Basin Zones, where the outside edges of summer structure meet vast, open water basins. On Lake St. Clair, this is often 18 feet of water; on Ontario is may be 50.

What we’re looking for here is the last piece of structure before the bottom drops to never-never land. Don’t begin casting until you mark significant numbers of fish. We’re looking for the motherlode here. The best presentations will be efficient deep-water methods. Drop-shot plastics remain number one, followed by metal blade baits and spoons. Underspins are becoming popular, as are solid-body swimbaits on jigheads weighing 3/4 ounce. The key is to get a bait down, even in the rough seas associated with fall fishing up north. Once you find them, the fish will do the rest.

(Don’t Miss: The Best Postspawn Crappie Fishing Tactics)

Tactic Five: Flats in the Desert

A quick review of recent smallmouth action reveals new fisheries in the West are coming on strong. Lakes like Havasu and Mead are producing eye-opening catches. Here, tactics mimic those of other parts of the country, with a desert twist. Clear waters and large striper populations put baitfish on high alert. When looking for smallmouths, sometimes the best play is to first find the stripers.

Striped bass are efficient open-water predators, likely due to their saltwater roots. Other species, notably largemouth and smallmouth bass, often feed in and around schools of stripers. Picking up the scraps can make for a good life.

Look for feeding action around shallow points and rocky flats. There, fish jerk baits and topwaters with a brisk, aggressive retrieve. If your catch includes nothing but stripers, slow down with a white hair jig fished in and around the school. Mike Guerra — an old friend living and fishing in Vegas — jigs a white hair jig around striper schools until temps cool to jacket weather, and he has some of his best smallmouth days when everyone thinks he’s striper fishing.

Sorry to let the cat out of the bag, Mike.

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What is the difference between a deer, elk, and moose?

Many people are not sure, especially since they all look similar.

They are all classified under the cervid family, but there are some distinct differences between them.

When you are out hunting, it is important to be able to identify the difference between deer, elk, and moose.

This will help you determine what animal you are hunting and what type of weapon you should use.

In this blog post, we will discuss the key differences between these animals. We will also provide photos so that you can better familiarize yourself with them.

After reading this blog post, you will be able to accurately identify deer, elk, and moose when you see them in the wild.

Are they all deer?

The deer, elk, and moose all fall under the family of animals called cervids.

This family includes many animals that have antlers or horns, as well as four-legged mammals.

You may be familiar with other members of this family such as the reindeer, caribou, or mule deer.

All cervids are herbivores and eat mostly plants.

All deer are hoofed ruminant animals that fall into two categories: Cervinae and Capreolinae.

Cervinae:

This subfamily includes Tufted deer,  muntjac, Chital, and elk.

Capreolinae: This subfamily includes reindeer, roe deer, and moose.

Now that we know a little bit more about where these animals come from, let’s discuss the key differences between them.

Deer:

The easiest way to identify a deer is by its size.

Deer are the smallest of the three animals and can range from 2.5 feet to 3.5 feet at the shoulder.

Another way to identify a deer is by its antlers.

Both male and female deer have antlers, but the antlers on a male deer are much larger.

(What is a 10-point buck? See this post for more)

Male deer also have a large neck and chest, which makes them look heavier than they actually are. 

Mule deer are found in and around Estes Park and weigh between 120-330 pounds on average.

Where you’ll find deer:  Search for them feeding in open, shrub-filled areas between dusk and dawn.

What they eat: Deer are herbivores and their diet consists of plants, fruits, and nuts.

They will also eat acorns and other nuts that fall from trees.

(What Meat Is Venison? Find out here)

Elk:

Elk are larger than deer and can weigh up to 1000 pounds.

They have a long body and short legs, which makes them appear lanky.

Elk also have large antlers, but they are not as large as the antlers on a male moose.

Both male and female elk have antlers, but the antlers on a male elk are much larger.

Male elk also have a large neck and chest, which makes them look heavier than they actually are. 

They can range from 4 feet to 6 feet at the shoulder.

Elk also have antlers, but they are shorter and thinner than those of a deer.

Male elk also have a large neck and chest, but their body is not as bulky as a moose.

They are averaging between 710-730 pounds. 

Where you’ll find elk: Look for them in open areas such as meadows, valleys, and mountainsides. They are most active at dawn and dusk.

What they eat: Elk are herbivores and their diet consists of grasses, leaves, and twigs. They will also eat fruits and nuts when they are available.

Moose:

Moose are the largest of the three animals and can range from 6.5 feet to 7.5 feet at the shoulder.

They are weighing in at 840-1500 pounds on average.

Moose also have antlers, but they are longer and wider than those of a deer or elk.

In addition to their antlers, moose have a large hump on their back near their shoulders.

This hump is where they store fat for the winter months.

Male moose also have a large neck and chest, which makes them look even larger than they actually are.

Where you’ll find moose: Look for them in wet areas such as lakes, marshes, and swamps. They are most active at dawn and dusk.

What they eat: Moose are herbivores and their diet consists of aquatic plants, grasses, and leaves. They will also eat twigs, berries, and bark when they are available.

This video gives you a good idea of the size difference between Elk and Deer:

Tracks:

Deer:

The deer has small, delicate hooves that leave a dainty print.

The front prints are almost heart-shaped, while the back prints are more oval.

You will often see pairs of deer tracks together because they walk single file. Deer tracks typically measure between 1 and 3 inches long.

(Can Deer Swim? See this post for more)

Elk:

The elk has large, round hooves that leave a distinct print.

The front prints are larger than the back prints and are usually wider than they are long. Elk tracks typically measure between 4 and 6 inches long.

Moose:

The moose has large, wide hooves that leave a distinct print.

The front prints are larger than the back prints and are usually wider than they are long. Moose tracks typically measure between 6 and 8 inches long.

FAQs

Do all three animals have antlers?

Yes, all three animals have antlers. However, the size and shape of the antlers vary among the different species.

What is the best time of day to see deer, elk, or moose?

The best time of day to see deer, elk, or moose is at dawn or dusk. This is when they are most active.

What do deer, elk, and moose eat?

Deer, elk, and moose are all herbivores. Their diet consists of plants, fruits, nuts, and leaves.

(What Is A Baby Deer Called? See this post for more)

Where can I find deer, elk, and moose?

Deer can be found in open areas such as meadows, woods, and fields. Elk are typically found in open areas such as meadows and valleys. Moose are usually found in wet areas such as lakes, swamps, and marshes.

How are killer whales and Greenland sharks predators of moose?

Killer whales and Greenland sharks are both predators of moose. They hunt them for their meat. Killer whales will attack a moose from below and drag it underwater where they will drown it. Greenland sharks will eat a moose alive, starting with its head. It’s because moose frequently swim between the islands off the northwest coast of America.

Are moose and elk endangered?

No, moose and elk are not endangered. In fact, they are doing quite well. The population of moose has been increasing in recent years, and the population of elk is stable.

Conclusion

Now that you know the difference between deer, elk, and moose, you can be sure to identify them correctly when you see them in the wild.

Remember, deer are the smallest of the three animals and have the smallest antlers.

Elk are the second largest animal and have antlers that can span up to 6 feet wide.

Moose are the largest animal and have antlers that can span up to 8 feet wide. If you ever have any questions about these animals, be sure to ask a ranger or other expert. Thanks for reading!

Today I’m going to show you the best rimfire scope.

In fact:

I’ve hand- tested over 10 scopes alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best scope for .22LR rifle, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

Why should you trust me?

I’ve tested over 200+ scopes at this point — including the best AR-15 optics.

That’s why my optic reviews has been featured on various publications like:

• Burris
• Vortex
• The National Interest
• American Shooting Journal

…and more.

I personally buy every scope from my own money. In fact, I never accept outside financial support from scope manufacturers (and never will).

Why? I believe honest reviews are better than paid reviews.

Read Before You Buy

I don’t like getting ripped off. I hope you don’t either.

That’s why I created this quick section on choosing the best 22 rimfire scope for your actual needs (rather than what marketing sells).

Here’s what you need to know.

How To Choose A Rimfire Scope

In the 1990s, the Navy Seals used a .22 specs ops pistol (called Ruger MK II).

Why? 4 reasons:

• Accuracy
• Quietness
• Cheapness
• Recoil (virtually none)

This is why the .22lr caliber is the most popular cartridge today. Out the box, the 22LR can easily hit 50 yard targets without a sight.

However, with the best 22LR scope, you can easily surpass 100+ yard targets..

So how much magnification do you need? To find out, we first have to determine the 3 common…

Rimfire Shooting Distances

Here are the 3 most common ranges:

• Close Range: <50 yards
• Medium Range: Between 50 to 100 yards
• Long Range: 100+ yards

Don’t know which range to choose? That’s OK. Just keep reading and I’ll break it down.

But if you do know your range (or ranges), then select it so you can find…

The Best Magnification for Rimfire Scopes

Before you can find the right magnification, you must first understand WHAT magnification is.

Put simply:

Magnification is how much the optic ‘enlarges’ the image. That’s it.

How do you find the right amount? By choosing a shooting distance based on your use.

Close Range (<50 yards)

This is where 22LR rifles excel.

If you mostly plink at close range, then you’re going to need:

• Magnification: 1 – 4X power

Alternatively, you can use a red dot for your rimfire rifle for fast target acquisition.

Speaking of red dots, I recommend reading my best pistol red dot sights guide if you’re into close range pistol shooting.

Also:

If you’re looking for added magnification or if you have astigmatism, check out my recent review of the best holographic sights.

Medium Range (50 – 100 yards)

This is the range majority of 22LR users shoot. Most people use it for small game hunting or plinking. If that’s the case, you’ll probably need:

• Magnification: Between 4 – 7X power

A fixed 4X or low power variable magnification optic (LPVO) is recommended.

Long Range (100+ yards)

Not many people go past 100 yards.

But sometimes you must due to hunting or competitive shooting, then choose:

• Magnification: 7X and up

If you need more than that, then head on over to my best long range rifle scopes guide. With all that said, here’s…

The Bottom Line On Magnification

Choosing a good scope for 22LR is as simple as choosing a shooting distance and then getting the right magnification.

If you don’t do this, you’ll likely buy the wrong amount (or type) of magnification for your uses. I’ve seen this more times than I can count. Don’t be that guy.

Instead, I highly recommend reading this section.

A quick pro tip:

If you combine magnifications (medium + long range), you’ll need a low powered variable powered scope. This allows you to use more than one magnification.

I hope this magnification guide helped you out. You’re now ready to find the best scope for .22 rifles below.

Let’s get started!

The 5 Best Rimfire Scopes/.22LR

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best rimfire scope:

1. Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9×40: Best 22LR Scope
2. Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56: Best Scope for 22LR Benchrest
3. Bushnell Trophy TRS-25: Best Rimfire Scope Under $100
4. Leupold VX-Freedom 1.5-4×20: Best Scope for 22LR Squirrel Hunting
5. Vortex Razor HD LH 1.5-8×32: Best for Competition

1. Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9×40: Best 22LR Scope

The Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9×40 is the best .22 rifle scope.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested it on multiple .22LR AR-15s for a wide variety of hunting applications and casual target shooting. Trust me when I tell you I loved it, especially for my Colt M4.

By the end of this review, you’ll know if the Leupold VX-Freedom is for you.

Let’s dive in!

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is crystal clear, with no edge distortions or color aberrations.

The VX-Freedom comes with a standard duplex reticle in the second focal plane.

SFP means the reticle size will remain the same even as the target size increases and decreases through its magnification range. It was effortless to incorporate hold over at varying distances.

If the duplex reticle not your cup of tea, the VX series has mil dots and ballistic reticles as an option.

Leupold also offers a custom dial service (CDS) model to provide a custom adjustable turret tailored to your ballistic specifications.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Leupold VX-Freedom has 4.17”/3.66” of forgiving eye relief, which keeps me from getting hit in the eye.

The scope offered a wide field of view between 100-200 yards, which is the distance I typically shoot targets.

Durability and Weight

Despite the price range, I was impressed with the durability and overall quality of the Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9×40.

The 1″ main tube is 12.39” long and weighs about 12.2 oz. It’s constructed from aircraft quality aluminum, making it waterproof, fog proof, and shockproof.

Also:

This rugged optic was impact tested on 3x the recoil of a .308 which is why it’s also known as one of the best AR-10 scopes on the market.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets were a little mushy.

It felt like they might twist off or break if I got too rough with them, but I will say the elevation and windage tracked true.

The adjustments are in ¼ MOA for both, a fine level of adjustment detail for under $300.

On the other hand, zeroing was a breeze. In less than ten rounds, I was pounding away at 200-yard steel plates with no issues.

I put 300 rounds on the VX-Freedom with my Ruger AR-556 rifle, and it had no problems holding zero.

Parallax & Magnification

The Leupold VX-Freedom sports a 3-9x variable magnification and 40mm objective, making it an excellent choice for medium to long-range shooting.

Speaking of long range, I have an updated list of the best 6.5 Creedmoor scopes you can use to perfect your long-range shooting.

The best part?

The zoom ring is super easy to turn. It features a large raised part that worked perfectly with thick gloves and cold, wet fingers.

Mounting & Rings

Unfortunately, this budget-oriented scope doesn’t come with accessories.

I have the VX-Freedom mounted on my Glenfield Marlin 22 model 60 using the Leupold Rifleman Scope Rings (Model #56533 – Rifleman Rings 1″ – .22 RF 3/8-inch Rings).

They come with a hex key and set screws. Furthermore, these rings allow enough clearance to use the front sights without having to remove the scope.

Also:

I purchased the Leupold Alumina Lens Shade 4″ 40mm for anti-reflection and scratch resistance.

Lastly, I replaced the flimsy bikini caps with the Leupold Alumina Flip Back Lens Cover.

Is the Leupold VX-Freedom worth it?

If you’re looking for a well-built scope from a renowned optics manufacturer, the Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9×40 is absolutely worth it.

Why? It’s got…

• Quality glass
• Low price tag
• Second Focal Plane
• Multiple Reticle Options
• Great eye-relief distance
• 3-9x Variable Magnification
• Weatherproof and shockproof build

To top it all off, the VX-Freedom comes with Leupold’s Lifetime warranty. If it breaks, they will repair or replace the scope without charge: even if you aren’t the original owner or lost the receipt.

For under $300, the Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9×40 is the best .22 scope that is not only budget-friendly but provides top-of-the-line performance.

2. Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56: Best Scope for 22LR Benchrest

The Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 is the first scope I have purchased made by Athlon and I am a little annoyed I hadn’t found the brand earlier in life.

They produce high quality scopes that far outperform the price tag.

Here’s why the Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 is the best benchrest shooting scope I have found to date…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The clarity of the Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 has blown me away. I have had scopes that are in the $2000-3000 range that can’t compete with this scope.

Whether it’s indoors or outdoors this scope has outperformed anything in it’s category.

I use this scope outdoors most often and the brightness has been fantastic so far.

I am not the most accurate shooter; however, with this kind of clarity, I have been shooting some of the tightest groupings of my life.

The FFP reticle on the Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 is beautiful and well illuminated. The configuration fits my needs perfectly.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on this scope has been unbelievably versatile.

I will admit as you move higher in the magnification, it can be difficult to find the sweet spot. Overall, my experience with the eye relief has been simple and reliable.

This scope is the best scope for ruger american rimfire. I have mine calibered in .22 so I don’t have too much of an issue with recoil.

The eye relief is more than comfortable for a .22 recoil and it would definitely still be comfortable with a firearm that has much more recoil.

Durability

The durability on the Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 has been outstanding so far. It has a few scratches but in my opinion a scope and firearm look better dinged up.

I buy my firearms and scopes to be used and slightly abused and this scope has certainly rolled with the punches.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets on the Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 are some of the most premium feeling turrets I have ever used.

An unbelievably satisfying click sound every motion. Chincy turrets irritate me to no end.

The turrets have a 0.25 MOA click value and the adjustment has been perfect for zeroing.

My experience zeroing the Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 was one of the easiest processes I have gone through.

This thing had to have been perfectly zerod in 5-10 shots.

Although I don’t dislike the process, I am glad it was quick and simple and I could spend the rest of my day enjoying the scope.

Parallax & Magnification

The Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 has a magnification of up to 30X which is unbelievable to me.

I definitely am not the most capable shooter, but the extra magnification has given me some of my best groupings and confidence to date.

Parallax on the scope has been nonexistent. Even at 30X I haven’t noticed any.

The combination of clarity, magnification, and lack of parallax makes this scope an absolute no brainer in my opinion.

Mounting & Rings

When I purchased the Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56, I also purchased some 34mm Vortex Optics Precision Matched Riflescope Rings.

They work fantastic and add a very good look to a great looking scope. Easy to mount on my rifle and haven’t had to mess with them since.

In addition to this, I also purchased a 56mm Athlon Sunshade which was a must in my book.

Is the Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 worth it?

The Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 is in no way a cheap scope; however, for the price you get the quality of a scope that is 2 to 3 times more expensive.

This scopes has been one of my favorite purchases this year. Here’s why:

• Clarity
• Build quality
• High magnification

In short: The Athlon Ares 4.5-30×56 is one of the most expensive scopes I have ever purchased and I do not regret a cent of that purchase.

You truly do get what you pay for with this scope and I have highly recommended it to all of my range buddies.

3. Bushnell Trophy TRS-25: Best Rimfire Scope Under $100

Penny for penny, the Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 is the best budget red dot on the market.

In fact, you’ll get the best rimfire scope for under $100!

I use this scope for target shooting, home defense, and hunting and it performs great in every environment.

Want to hear more? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The TRS-25 has crystal clear glass.

The lenses are multi-coated, which reduces glare and helps to draw in light for better clarity in dim environments.

The best part is that it has an Amber-Bright coating that helps you distinguish between different shades of brown. You’ll easily be able to tell the difference between a brown tree and a brown animal when you’re out hunting.

This scope has a 3 MOA red dot reticle with 11 brightness settings.

It has an easy adjustment dial, so you can set the brightness to whatever setting works best for your own personal preference or the time of day.

The red dot is bright and crisp both in the bright sunlight and during dawn or dusk.

It also has an extended battery life, so you don’t have to worry about losing your dot in the middle of a hunt.

If you prefer not to worry about batteries, I recommend checking out my best prism scopes as an alternate option.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

With all red dot scopes, you get unlimited eye relief.

This means you’ll be able to have both eyes open, which gives you access to all your peripheral vision and promotes high situational awareness.

On top of that, you get super fast target acquisition because you don’t have to worry about eye or head position like you would with a LVPO.

Durability

The Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 was built to last.

It features shockproof construction to withstand any rough treatment. I’ve definitely banged mine on a few trees, with no evident damage.

It also is O-ring sealed, which makes it completely waterproof, even if it’s dunked under water.

Plus, it is nitrogen purged. This means you’ll never have to worry about it fogging up in humid environments.

It is compact and light, weighing only 4 oz, which makes it one of the best scopes for Ruger 10/22.

It also comes with a 1 year warranty, so you have plenty of time to test it out for any issues.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage knobs are nice and tight.

You can easily use a dime to make your adjustments and they give a nice, positive click.

I zeroed mine in at 50 yards in a matter of minutes. I’ve shot thousands of rounds with this scope and have yet to need to readjust it.

Parallax & Magnification

You’ll get 1x magnification with the Bushnell Trophy TRS-25.

This is perfect for target shooting, hunting, and home defense. It gives you optimum vision at short range and works well for most intermediate distances as well.

If you want to use it for long range, it is possible if you add on a magnifier. You will lose out on your unlimited eye relief though.

The parallax is fixed at 50 yards and I haven’t noticed any issues with it.

Mounting & Rings

This scope mounts easily to most picatinny rails.

It is compatible with rifles, shotguns, pistols, and muzzleloaders, so it is an extremely versatile scope.

Depending on the type of weapon you’re mounting it to, you may need a riser, which is not included. You can choose the height that works best for your firearm. There’s a 0.83

or 1” option.

You’ll also get a nice rubber scope cover with the TRS-25.

Is the Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 worth it?

This scope is the best red dot you’ll find at a budget friendly price.

It has:

• Multi-coated lenses
• Amber-Bright coating
• 3 MOA red dot reticle
• 11 brightness settings
• Best bang for your buck pricing
• Rugged durability w/1 year warranty

If you’re looking for the best rimfire scope under $100, try the Bushnell Trophy TRS-25. You won’t be disappointed.

4. Leupold VX-Freedom 1.5-4×20: Best Scope for 22LR Squirrel Hunting

Looking for the best .22 rimfire scope for squirrel hunting? Look no further than the Leupold VX-Freedom 1.5-4×20.

With all the glass quality and clarity you’ve come to expect from Leupold, you’ll be able to accurately pop tiny varmints in all lighting conditions.

Let me show you…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Leupold VX-Freedom has a very clear picture.

I was impressed that Leupold was able to maintain such clarity in a lower-price range scope.

Unlike many scopes in the $200-$300 price-range, the VX-Freedom has fully multi-coated lenses and exceptionally clear glass.

Edge-to-edge, I found the sight picture to be crisp. Using Leupold’s Twilight Management System to drastically reduce stray light glare, there’s no haziness or fuzziness in my view.

I had perfect color contrast, even in low light situations.

Leupold boasts that their superior light transmission will give hunters an extra 20 minutes of shooting light. After putting this scope through its paces in the early morning and fading daylight hours, I found this to be true.

Armed with my Leupold VX-Freedom and my trusty .22 rimfire, I was able to be out when the squirrels were most active.

The second focal plane fine duplex reticle didn’t obscure even the tiniest target. I easily made headshots on squirrels within 100 yards.

For those interested in a hashed reticle, the Pig Reticle for hog hunting is listed as an option from some sellers.

Even for the range, this scope would be an awesome option for .22 benchrest shooting. No matter what you use your .22 rimfire for, the Leupold VX-Freedom will perform well.

That’s why I recommended the Freedom as my go-to hunting scope in best rifle scopes guide.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

I found this scope to have a pretty long eye-relief from 3.75 to 4 inches.

The eyebox was generous though, I didn’t have any trouble maneuvering behind the scope and maintaining a clean view through the scope.

Durability

Leupold is king when it comes to making a durable scope, and this little guy was no exception.

The lenses are coated with DiamondCoat 2 which not only improve light transmission, but provide scratch resistance.

The scope is argon/krypton purged making it fogproof in the toughest weather conditions.

It’s also sealed to withstand being submerged in over 30 feet of water.

I do not treat my scopes kindly. I haven’t bothered to cover this scope on my hunting trips. It has been tossed around, dropped, knocked and abused. Still works great, still holds zero.

Elevation & Windage Knob

I think the turrets are where Leupold compromised quality for cost on this particular optic. The turrets on the Freedom VS-Freedom are not at the same quality level that I am used to on higher-end Leupold scopes.

The finger click turrets felt mushy to me. I had a hard time telling when they finally “clicked” when making adjustments.

With that said, I didn’t have to work hard to zero the scope. I was able to sight in my gun in less than 5 shots.

The turret adjustments were definitely better than other budget scopes, but not up to par with what Leupold usually produces.

And that’s to be expected. Leupold has to cut corners somewhere to keep the price of this optic low. I would rather have slightly mushy turrets than crappy glass.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification range for the VX-Freedom is 1.5-4x. This is perfect for small game hunting. In fact, I have taken it out to squirrel hunt several times and I loved it.

I found it easy to get headshots with this scope. Precision target shooters would be very pleased with this optic.

If I was shooting larger targets and a heavier caliber, I could easily push the range out to 400 yards. This low magnification range scope can outcompete many of the others in its class.

There is no parallax adjustment on this optic, but with such a low magnification range, parallax shouldn’t be an issue.

Mounting & Rings

No mounts or rings are included with the VX-Freedom which has a 1 inch main tube.

I choose to mount my optic with Leupold Rifleman rings that include a base.

These rings are affordable and easy to install.

Leupold did not include any lens caps either. I personally don’t have a need for covers.

I think that the scope is built well enough, it doesn’t matter. But if you would like covers, you can buy a set separately.

Is the Leupold VX-Freedom 1.5-4×20 worth it?

I think the Leupold VX-Freedom 1.5-4×20 is definitely worth the investment for anyone doing close-range, precision .22 rimfire shooting.

To recap its features, it has:

• Fine Duplex Reticle
• DiamondCoat2 Lens Coatings
• Twilight Maxlight Management System reduces glare
• Highly durable design withstands the Punisher, an extreme recoil/shock simulator

Honestly, the glass clarity of the VX-Freedom meets the standard Leupold has set with its higher-end scopes. At about $300 you will be hard pressed to find a clearer picture.

5. Vortex Razor HD LH 1.5-8×32: Best for Competition

As much as I like bells and whistles and all the fancy features on my scopes, sometimes simple is the way to go.

If I’m hunting hogs on my property or deer in the nearby woods then I don’t need the extra weight some of those scopes pack on.

At those times, you can’t beat a Vortex Rimfire Scope.

They’ve got the incredible quality I’ve come to expect from Vortex and they’re lightweight and sturdy. Which is why it’s one of the best .308 scope on the market.

But if you’re looking for a simple, elegant, and effective scope, then keep reading and I’ll tell you why this one can’t be beaten.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is ultra-clear and incredibly crisp.

This scope has HD extra-low dispersion lenses that are fully multi-coated and anti-reflective.

Colors are true through it and the resolution is great.

Whether I’m zoomed all the way to 8x or sitting at 1.5x, the clarity is the same and I can see everything I’m looking at.

The anti-reflective coating is great for when I’m hunting in low light as it lets all the light in without ruining my view.

One of its best features is the G4 BDC reticle which gives you both a target dot and hash marks in your crosshairs.

It’s simplicity and uncluttered design makes it a dream for any hunter.

Take advantage of the lens cover and cloth that are included to keep your lens performing at its best.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

It’s got a 3.8” eye relief and a generous eye box.

There’s plenty of room to maneuver regardless of your magnification setting.

While it’s not as much eye relief as some higher-end scopes have, I’ve never had an issue with it being cramped.

Durability

Like all Vortex scopes, this one is incredibly durable.

It’s made of a single piece of aircraft-grade aluminum that is hard anodized and covered in an Armortek coating.

That makes it super scratch resistant and helps it to be shockproof.

No matter what trees my scope has been banged against or brush it’s gotten caught on, it hasn’t gotten a single scratch on it yet.

On top of that its Argon gas purged to prevent internal fogging, which is a huge plus on fall mornings when the temperature is fluctuating.

Finally, it’s also waterproof thanks to the O-ring seals that prevent moisture, dust, and debris from getting into it.

You’d be hard-pressed to find another manufacturer with the level of durability that Vortex offers in its scopes.

Whatever environment or temperature you take this scope hunting in, it’s gonna perform amazingly.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The low-capped large-diameter turrets make it really easy to read your elevation and windage adjustments.

The turrets are easily turned with finger pressure, although I do wish the click was a bit more audible. It’s there, but it’s quiet.

The caps are a nice feature though as they help protect the turrets from getting accidentally bumped out of place.

If you’re anything like me, that’s a great feature to have when you’re moving through the brush.

The scope was very easy to zero at 100 yards and it’s had no problems keeping zero.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification is 1.5-8x with a 32mm objective lens.

Although the magnification range starts at 1.5x, for me it really felt like a true 1x.

If it’s not true, it’s so incredibly close I couldn’t tell the difference.

The zoom is fast and insanely smooth from 1.5-8x and everything in between – just like my best ACOG clone.

I had no issues with parallax until I got up to 8x magnification, but it was easy to fix and wasn’t a lasting issue.

Mounting & Rings

You’re gonna have to buy your own mount for this one as it doesn’t come included.

I use and recommend the Monstrum Cantilever Ring Mount.

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It’s easy to use, durable, and user-friendly.

Is the Vortex Razor HD LH 1.5-8×32 worth it?

I’ll admit, I’m a bit of a Vortex fan. Their optics are high quality and they stand by their products.

This is a great little scope if you’re looking for something simple and sleek.

Let’s review:

• Capped turrets
• G4 BDC reticle
• Argon gas purged
• Incredible durability
• 1.5-8x magnification range
• Crystal clear multi-coated lens
• Shock, fog, and waterproof & scratch resistant

If none of that convinces you, maybe the incredible Vortex Lifetime Warranty will.

No matter what happens to your scope, Vortex has got you covered. Go check out the Vortex Razor HD LH and decide for yourself.

How to Sight in .22 Rifle with Scope

By now, you’ve found the right optic for your rimfire rifle. You’re now ready to shoot.

No so fast.

It doesn’t matter how good of a shot you are. If your scope isn’t sighted properly, then you’re gonna miss.

I’m going to show you how to sight in your .22 rifle step-by-step.

Let’s dive right in.

Everything You Need to Get Started

You technically can zero in your gun with just a target.

However, from experience, I’ve found these following tools greatly simplify the sight-in process.

Here are the tools:

1. Ear and eye protection: You’re going to have to fire live rounds. These protect your eyes and ears from potential damage.

1. Gun Rest: This keeps your rifle as steady as possible throughout the process. This way you don’t accidentally move the gun between shots and potentially throw off the hit comparisons. You can either use a professional gun rest or a cardboard box like this.

1. Target: A paper target that’s anchored to something immovable (like steel).

1. Range: Indoor ranges are recommended but an outdoor one with windbreakers and damp or grassy ground to prevent dust clouds works fine.

Got these 4 things? Good. It’s now time to learn…

How to Sight In Your 22 Rifle Scope

Some guides may direct you to remove your scope from the mount for certain adjustments, but that shouldn’t be necessary.

If you already have your scope set on a good mount, then there’s no need to take it off for zeroing.

The biggest thing to focus on is being patient. Take your time with each step of the process and make sure you get it right.

Step 1: Set Everything Up

Get your target set up downrange and fully secured. Make sure there is a solid backdrop to catch your shots.

Aim your rifle towards the target and use your gun vice (or whatever material you’ve chosen to keep your gun secure) to anchor it in place. The surface you rest your rifle on should optimally be level.

This is also the time to put on your safety equipment. This includes the shooting glasses and some form of ear protection.

How far away you shoot from is up to you. I recommend doing it at 100 yards, as anything less just isn’t precise enough. Doing it at more than 100 is simply inviting more interference from wind or other factors.

Step 2: Aim for the Bullseye

Focus your crosshairs directly on the bullseye and fire. This is where the patience comes in, as you need to take your time and make sure you don’t affect the shot at all. The gun and scope need to do all the work.

Take note of where your shot landed on target. If the mark isn’t noticeable, then use a marker to make it so. If you completely missed, then try to figure out where the shot went and adjust your aim accordingly.

Step 3: Make Adjustments

Once you’ve fired, do your absolute best not to jostle the rifle at all. If you do, you will have to repeat the previous step.

Using your windage and elevation turrets, make adjustments until the crosshairs are perfectly centered on your previous shot.

After this, you can adjust the rifle itself until the crosshairs once again point at the bullseye. Make sure you don’t accidentally touch the turrets while reaiming.

Step 4: Shoot Again

You’ll once again need to align your crosshairs directly on the bullseye and fire. In a perfect world, this is where the bullet will go directly into the bullseye. In reality, it should be very close, but may not be perfect.

You’ll need to repeat the previous two steps until your shots are comfortably close to the bullseye. Once your shot gets close to the center, keep your crosshairs on the bullseye and fire again to make sure that there was no user error in the process.

Step 5: Cool and Repeat

It’s very likely that your scope and rifle are already sighted, but it’s always better to be safe than sorry.

Give your gun some time to fully cool down before once again shooting at the bullseye. This is just a last little test to make sure everything is truly sighted.

If the bullet lands in a surprising spot, then you may need to repeat the earlier steps to make sure that you’ve completed each one properly.

Conclusion

This is a necessary step to get the best accuracy from your rifle and scope.

The rifle and scope do a lot more work than many people think, and getting them properly sighted makes sure that they can do their job well.

Patience and safety are the biggest factors to keep in mind. Taking your time with each step will make everything go smoothly and will actually speed up the process significantly.

Having your safety equipment and a good backdrop are absolutely essential and part of the responsibility each gun owner has to keep themselves and others safe.

Now that you’ve made it through the guide and gotten your scope and gun sighted, you’ll have a much easier time doing it again in the future.

Just always err on the side of caution and follow each step with patience and precision.

Best Distance to Sight in Your .22 Rifle

Easily, the most popular caliber is .22 lr. Not only is the round itself affordable and accurate, but you can easily get a great quality rifle (I’m looking at you, Ruger 10/22), for under $150.

If you want to get fancy, it’s easy to spend thousands of dollars on an upgraded, tricked out .22 competition rifles.

Or you could easily have a formidable varmint gun in a price range in between. There’s enough variety in .22 lr availability to please every taste and budget.

Lightweight and with low recoil, .22 lr is an easy caliber for novice shooters to learn the fundamentals and for experts to fine-hone their skills.

You’re probably here because you put a scope on your shiny new .22 lr and you’re ready to start popping squirrels.

Before you get going though, we need to zero in your scope so that you can effectively place your shots at any distance.

I’m going to walk you through the best distance to zero your scope.

It probably isn’t what you expected it to be.

The Trouble with Variable Distance Shooting

There’s a bit of a debate online as to which is the best distance to sight in your scoped .22lr. Some say to sight it in for the distance you will be shooting, which is the obvious answer for plinkers and set-distance target shooting.

If you’ll be shooting at 50 yards every single time you head to the range, then 50 yards is where you need to set zero.

But if you plan on hunting small game with your .22lr rifle, you will want to be able to accurately hit the kill zone of your living targets from a wide range of distances. Small game animals have smaller kill zones.

We’re talking tiny kill zones. If you over or under shoot by a couple inches on large game, you’ll likely still be able to kill the animal. If you are high or low by more than 1.5 inches on a squirrel, you can completely miss.

For example, if you zero your hunting rifle at 50 yards, your bullet will drop 2 inches at 75 yards and 6 inches at 100 yards. Because of initial bullet rise, at 25 yards, you’ll be 2 inches too high.

That means that your bullet will hit 2 inches higher than you aimed your crosshairs at 25 yards, but then you’ll be 2 inches below the bullseye at 75 yards. At 100 yards, if you aim right at the bullseye you’ll be 6 inches too low.

That’ll leave you completely missing the squirrel at any distance other than 50 yards. Zeroing your rifle at 50 yards is a terrible idea for varmint hunters.

Ballistics

Before I explain why 50 yards is awful, let’s back up to the basic physics of firing a shot and finding zero on your scope.

When you fire a gun and the bullet leaves the muzzle, your bullet moves forward it rises, reaches an apex and then drops as the bullet begins to slow down and falls back to earth. If you were to plot the path of the bullet, it would make an arch, or to be technical, a parabola. Let’s think about it like throwing a softball.

Ideally, you’d want a flatter curve so you have a smaller margin of error at any point along the bullet’s path. To get a flatter curve, the bullet needs to move faster. It needs more muzzle velocity.

Thinking of the softball example, you need a faster pitch to get a flatter curve. A slower pitch will give you a loftier curve. Same with muzzle velocity and ballistics: a slower bullet will have a more dramatic curve; a faster bullet will be flatter.

Like your softball, your bullet will slow down and drop drastically as you increase distance traveled. This is called bullet drop. After 100 yards, your bullet will slow down so much that it will drop significantly, not proportionally.

Remember that 50 yard zero example a minute ago? You’d think that if the bullet drops only 2 inches at 75 yards, it would drop 4 inches by 100 yards, right? Nope. The bullet slows down tremendously over the longer distance and the drop is actually equal to 6 inches. A variation of 6 inches is huge when hunting small critters.

So, how do we correct this?

When you zero your rifle this means that you are setting your line of sight to coincide with the bullet’s impact somewhere along its trajectory curve.

Sighting in your rifle at, say 50 yards, means that you have made the necessary adjustments to your line of sight so that the bullet’s path will intersect, or cross that line, at 50 yards. All other factors removed, your bullet will hit bullseye at 50 yards. When using iron sights, your point of view is even with the muzzle of your rifle. Easy.

But you aren’t hunting with iron sights. You have a scope.

A scope raises your line of sight 1.5 inches above the muzzle. This changes your curve and increases your margin of error throughout a range of 100 yards.

So, how do we sight in our scope to give us the smallest margin of error along a 100 yard range?

I’m so glad you asked! Let’s apply what we just learned about bullet trajectory…

First, use a high velocity round to flatten that trajectory curve as much as possible. You might have to try a few types to find a fast round that works well with your gun.

For a rundown of ballistics from different manufacturers, check out this handy table:

Second, sight your rifle in at 75 yards.

The Magic Number

Why 75 yards you ask? Because it gives you the smallest margin of error along your bullet’s trajectory within a 100 yard range.

We’re planning on shooting small, living things, right? And you want to shoot your small, living thing and make it a small, dead thing. To do that you don’t need to impact right on an exact point, you just need to land your shot within a small area on the body of your small, living thing. This area is called the “kill zone”.

We won’t always find these small, living things at consistent distances. Sometimes, we get lucky and they are right in front of us, sometimes, they are a ways out. No matter the distance, we want the best chance of impacting the small, living thing in the kill zone with minimal adjustment on our scope.

This is where 75 yards becomes our magic number for sighting in your varmint scope. I could walk you through the math, but it’s really tedious, so I’m not going to. Suffice it to say that using the bullet’s trajectory and our line of sight, a zero at 75 yards will give us the smallest deviation of the bullet’s trajectory along our line of sight within 100 yards.

If you want to go digging into it, you can learn more here.

Basically, at a distance of 75 yards you will have a deviation of +-1.5 inches above or below your target throughout a practical hunting range of 0-75 yards. That’s a deviation of less than a full squirrel. This will put you in the kill zone at any distance without having to stress about holdover or holdunder.

At point blank, your shot will be 1.5 inches high. At 25 yards, you’ll be just over a 0.5 inch high. At 50 yards, you’ll be just over 1 inch high, and right on at 75 yards. See, no matter the distance, you’ll be landing shots within the kill zone and blasting critters.

If you are shooting at 100 yards, you’ll have a bullet drop of 3 inches. At this distance you’ll want to aim a little high to compensate for the bullet drop.

Practice & Take Notes

While all of this is pretty straight forward, it isn’t foolproof. A lot of things can impact your bullet’s travel to its target. The shape of your bullet, the ambient temperature, wind speed and direction, even air pressure can affect your shot.

It’s still a great idea to take notes when out shooting so that you can do some fine-tuning.

As you try different types of ammunition, you’ll find rounds that work really well with your rifle and some that don’t. Keep a notebook in your gun bag and make notes of this.

You may find a sweet spot for holdover at specific ranges. Make notes of this too.

Above all, go shooting. Get familiar with your rifle and your scope. The more muscle memory you build, the more instinctive your shooting will become.

Write down anything that worked, and anything that didn’t. The more detailed you are in your notes, the more you can fine-tune your setup and hone your skills.

Happy hunting!

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best rimfire scopeguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which rifle scope will you pick?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

If there’s one enduring lesson from 2020, it’s that family matters. And for upstate New York bowhunter Phillip Pless, that’s never been more apparent than when it comes to the autumn pursuit of whitetails.

A disabled veteran from Newfane, N.Y. who served in the United States Navy, Pless saw all levels of family become an important cog in his recent hunt for a huge buck on a small farm barely 10 miles from Lake Ontario. From his wife to his extended family to even a late grandfather he never met; all played a key role in Pless’ recent bowhunt for a buck apparently destined for the upper reaches of the record book.

When the smoke had cleared from his recent outing, the 43-year old bowhunter — who has chased deer since he was 16 and has hunted whitetails with a bow since 2010 — had a massive 5 ½-year-old non-typical that could push up toward state-record status in the Pope and Young Club record book for the Empire State.

While he’ll have to wait until the mandatory 60-day drying period is over to find out what the buck’s official score is early next year, the early green numbers on Pless’ Nov. 8 bowkill put it into benchmark territory at 222 6/8 inches gross and 213 7/8 inches net.

If the numbers on the Pless buck hold, it stands to wrestle the top spot away in the archery record book from a 2011 buck taken in Suffolk County by Michael Giarraputo. That whitetail scored 209 6/8 inches net and has been the Pope and Young Club state record non-typical buck ever since.

Until Pless’ recent bowhunt, that is. Not bad for a bowhunter who wasn’t even sure if he would be able to get out into the woods on the fateful Sunday afternoon.

“I was at home watching the kids while my wife ran some errands, and I really had no plans to hunt that day,” said Pless. “Plus, the local fire company was having a raffle gun drawing on Facebook and I kind of wanted to watch that along with the Bills game.”

But when his wife Elizabeth arrived home around mid-afternoon — and with the Bills doing well on the gridiron in their eventual 44-34 win over the Seattle Seahawks — a beautiful fall afternoon in November proved to be too strong a temptation for the enthusiastic bowhunter.

“Since the Bills were winning, I said to my wife, ‘You know what? I’m going to go hunting,’” chuckled Pless.

So he quickly put on his new birthday present, a pair of LaCrosse rubber boots from his wife, and got dressed in his favorite Realtree Edge camouflage. Then Pless made the short 10-minute drive to the small family farm, hiked to his ladder stand, and put on a cover scent he relies heavily upon.

“I’ve tried to access my stands like the pros do,” said Pless. “I watch all of the TV shows and try to watch the wind like the pros do. But I also put on a Conquest scent on the bottom of my boots.”

After doing so, he climbed up to see what the afternoon would bring. Hopefully it would deliver a chance at a bruiser buck that Pless had seen for four years on his Wildgame Innovation trail cameras. But despite hunting the farm regularly, having a couple of the buck’s sheds, and having a growing library of trail camera photos, in the field sightings were all but non-existent for the big non-typical.

With any luck, that would change. But after getting settled in around mid-afternoon, the first hour was uneventful as Pless sat in his stand overlooking the old fruit tree farm that is now a mix of uplands, soybean and corn fields, as well as scattered woods.

As Pless waited, hoping to see the buck that had disappeared from his cameras in recent weeks, the beautiful fall afternoon with mild temperatures and light winds drew his wife to the family farm to walk with the couple’s young children — 3-year-old Grace, 2-year-old Liam, and the couple’s soon-to-be-born son Easton.

“After I had been sitting in the stand for a little bit, my wife had texted and said that she had come to the farm with the kids,” said Pless. “She asked if she could walk back that way with the kids. I told her yes, but not to come too far. When they got to a certain spot, I’d wave at them.”

But as Pless dropped his cell phone back into a pocket, he looked up and had to catch his breath — the giant buck he had watched for four years now was in the scrub field in front of him with a doe.

“I looked at him through my Vortex binoculars — I use the 10×42 Diamondback HD set — to make sure it was him, then I took couple of pics and sent them to my wife and told her not to come back here because he was here.”

While the full details of Pless’ hunt will be saved for a future issue of North American Whitetail magazine, suffice it to say that the bowhunter began a cat-and-mouse game with the giant buck that lasted into the final minutes of sunlight. At first, the buck disappeared into the woods while the original doe remained in the field. A short while later, the buck reappeared with a couple of other does and chased one around briefly as the group slowly advanced in the bowhunter’s direction.

When it seemed like the bruiser would come no closer, Pless decided to trust his long hours of practice work on the shooting range this year as he sought to improve his skills at longer distances. Drawing his Hoyt Maxus 31 back, he steadied the sight pin on his Trophy Ridge sight, touched the release, and let the Easton arrow and Rage broadhead sail downrange towards the buck 40+ yards away.

“As I drew back, I prayed to God that I wouldn’t miss and then I let the arrow go,” said Pless. “He turned a bit on the shot, but the arrow hit him and went through the shoulder, shattering it, and getting lung. He went about 80 yards, stopped about four times — each time I could see blood coming out — and then I saw him drop.”

Composing himself — Pless admitted he started shaking like a leaf after he cut the shot loose — the archer waited until dark. As he climbed down, the bowhunter ruefully discovered that in his haste to get out of the house and into his stand, he had left his flashlight at home. After using his cell phone light to briefly examine the area, Pless retreated to the farm house for a light and some tracking reinforcements.

“When we got back down in there, he wasn’t too far from where I had last seen him,” said Pless. “My arrow had gone through the right shoulder and gotten lung.”

With the deer now successfully recovered, Pless and his family members couldn’t get over how huge the buck was, both in terms of its antler dimensions and body size.

“He weighed about 250 or 260 before we gutted him,” said Pless. “And he was bigger (antler wise) than he appeared to be in the trail cam photos I had. He looked big in the pictures, but in person, he was just huge.”

Pless admitted that he was a little befuddled as he went about tagging the animal, getting it field dressed, and loaded up for the ride out.

“I couldn’t really concentrate as I tried to soak it all in,” he laughed. “I even asked someone for a pen five times. As it turns out, I had the pen in my hand all along.”

When you’ve just shot a buck that could be a new archery state record — in the year of the COVID-19 pandemic, no less — that’s understandable.

Now Pless will sit back and enjoy fresh venison on the family dinner table, look forward to the completion of a pedestal mount of the buck that is being done, and eagerly await the final scoring process in January 2021.

Already, others in his small western New York region are pretty excited to hear the story and see the photos of this great buck.

“Yeah, my brother told me that this thing would go viral,” said Pless. “And I guess it has, because I’ve even had people approach me when I’ve been out and about. One was the other day in the parking lot of a gas station. The guy looked at me and said ‘Hey, is that you?’ And I said, ‘What do you mean?’ And then he said, ‘Are you the guy who shot that big deer?’ as he pulled his phone out and showed me a photo of me and my deer. And I said ‘Yeah, that’s me, I’m the guy!’”

In the meantime, as Pless enjoys his brush with local fame, he’s also filled with gratitude as the season of Thanksgiving approaches. First, for his wife and her daily work from home, along with her also trying to help her husband get into the woods to pursue his outdoors passion.

Next Pless is grateful for a host of friends and family members who have taken an interest in his hobby along with helping to drag the buck out, including Kevin Austin, Scott Pipelis, Jason Pless, and Connor Pless.

And finally, he’s thankful for the memory of one of his primary deer-hunting inspirations, the late grandfather that he never met, Clarence Pless. Years ago, the late hunter was passionate about his own pursuit of New York’s big whitetails, even taking a record-book giant with a shotgun.

“My grandpa Pless used to hunt, but I never got to meet him since he passed away before I was born,” said Phillip. “My grandpa was a good deer hunter, and last week, my uncle Glenn gave me some of my grandfather’s stuff because he thought I might like to have it. It included a picture of my grandfather at deer camp with several others.”

In that deer camp photo taken near Greenwood, N.Y., the black and white image shows several proud hunters along with several good bucks hanging from the camp’s sagging meat pole. And the biggest belonged to Clarence, who was also 43 at the time — a huge typical whitetail placing high up in the New York State Big Buck Club.

He’s heard the stories of his grandfather’s love of deer hunting from his dad Bruce, his uncle Glenn, and others — so much so that he felt his grandpa’s presence during his recent hunt for a record book giant.

“You know, I don’t honestly know how to feel about all of this, I guess it really hasn’t all sunk in yet,” said Pless. “But it’s been really exciting, and I’ve been telling others that I think my grandfather was either sitting beside me or was up above watching over me when I shot this deer. He shot his big buck back in 1942 at the age of 43 and I shot mine at 43 — my birthday was just the other day.”

Proving that even in a time of unprecedented health crisis and uncertainty, many of the things that have made our country great still remain, things like hope, family, love, and a desire to get outside to see and experience the great outdoors.

Pless certainly understands, especially this year, a time when the coronavirus has ravaged his home state.

“I know it’s been bad here,” said Pless. “But I don’t know anybody who has gotten it and suffered from it — at least no one in my family, thank the Lord.”

Whatever else people remember the year 2020 for, Pless will always remember it for something wonderful and grand every time he looks in the antlered direction of a certain big buck he dreamed of tagging for several years. In the end, it was a deer that lived up to the hype, in the passionate bowhunter’s mind at least.

“It is the buck of a lifetime,” agreed Pless.

In a year that will never be forgotten. May all of us as hunters be so blessed in the fall of 2020 as we head to the woods with the hope for a big buck, good health, and the love of family and friends tucked away in our back pocket.

There are so many reasons to want to add ducks to your homestead – ease of care, eggs, meat, insect control, and entertainment, to name a few.

For me, though, one of the most incredible things about raising ducks is how much they poop. Yes – I know, this isn’t something most people talk about (at least not in public). But, if you are a homesteader and growing your food, finding good sources of fertilizer for your garden and edible landscapes is a top priority.

So, I say yahoo for duck poo! And here’s why:

1. Quantity: You get about 0.065 pounds of poop per day, per pound of laying chicken. But you get 0.11 pounds of poop per pound of duck per day. Although it may not sound like a big difference, if you have ten ducks that are 6 pounds each, that means 6.6 pounds of manure per day on average. The same 60 pounds worth of laying hens gets you 3.9 pounds of poop per day. In a year, using ducks as a source of fertilizer, you get almost 1000 pounds more duck poop from a similarly sized flock.
2. Nutrient Content: Almost all livestock manure is awesome for your garden (so long as the animals were raised well), but duck poop is the bomb! Duck poop is basically like a 2.8:2.3:1.7 NPK fertilizer. According to the same source, no other livestock manure has NPK ratio this high. The closest one is turkey with 2.8/2.4/1.2 but with less poop per pound per day. This means with duck you get the most poop per day and you need the least poop to get the same level of fertilizer.
3. Dispersal: Duck poop is more liquid than other forms of manure which mean between regular rain and ducks plodding over it, duck manure disperses very quickly into the soil.

Now that you know why duck poop is such a powerful source of fertilizer on the homestead let’s talk about a few ways to use it.

Ways to Use Duck Poop to Fertilize Your Garden

Method 1: Edible Access

Letting your ducks wander directly through your edible landscapes is an excellent way to spread the ‘goodness’ with minimal work on your part. But there are a few things you need to know though.

Ducks need direction. They are creatures of habit, and if you just let them have total access to your landscape at all times, they will forage a bit. Then they’ll spend the rest of their day lounging out in their favorite places. If they are allowed to lounge too long in any one area, they overload areas with poop and stifle plant growth.

If you want to move ducks around your landscape, get them in the habit of following you to a new area every few days using a feed bucket. Fill kiddie pools with water and set them in that location to encourage ducks to stick around. Make sure there are shaded areas and sunny spots so ducks can be comfortable.

Sometimes just moving their food and water sources to new areas, full of fresh weeds and bugs, will be enough to direct their droppings. However, if you happen to have a large pond or more alluring spaces that might tempt ducks away from their work, then you will have to use temporary fencing to keep ducks where you want them.

When using ducks in undeveloped areas with no shade, you can create temporary shelters using straw bales, stakes, and tarps.

Electric poultry netting works well so long as you have an excellent charger. Ducks are heavily feathered and tend to be more resistant to shock discouragement than other kinds of livestock.

For birds that don’t fly well, just putting up inexpensive plastic netting (e.g. the 100-foot rolls you can get for deer protection) around garden stakes can also work well to keep most of your ducks contained. Since ducks tend to stick together, as long as most of them stay in the designated areas, even escape artist ducks will linger close to the confinement area.

This method works best in established edible landscapes with mature plants, for example under fruit trees. It also works well to develop new areas that have not yet been planted. Avoid letting ducks wander among newly planted areas as disturbed soil encourages them to dig for insects with their beaks. Ducks also tend to trample tender plants.

Method 2: Water Your Growing Areas with Pond Water

If you have a permanent pond that ducks swim and poop in, you can usually directly water your garden and edible landscape areas with your pond water. You can simply dip a bucket and dump it where you need it. Or you can get a bit more sophisticated and use gravity or pumps to do the work for you.

If you are just getting started and can choose where to site your duck pond, aim high. If your pond is higher than the rest of your landscape, you can use gravity to do the work of moving duck water for you.

One of our ponds sits uphill from our garden. We have a flock of ducks that live on and around that pond during the growing season. All we have to do to move water from the pond to our garden, is put one end of a hose in our pond, create a suction to draw out the water, and then let it run downhill to our garden.

We’re super low-tech around here. So we connected our pond hose to our house hose bib. We turned on the water from our house and let it run until it was pouring out at the pond. Then we turned off the water at the house which then began to draw back the water from the pond. We quickly connected our hose to a float valve. The float valve keeps that suction we created on all the time.

We put the float valve on a 55-gallon drum, so we always have a ready supply of water in the garden. We can also just take off the float valve and directly water our garden using the hose any time we want. Then we can reconnect the float valve to stop the flow and keep the suction going.

If you don’t have a high pond, then you’ll have to look into pumps. Electric, gas, and even human-powered pumps can all work. You just have to do some research to make sure you get the right pump to move water over both the distance and elevation change to your edible landscape locations.

Kiddie ponds can be emptied daily directly under fruit trees and other established plants.

Method 3: Compost your Duck Litter

I confine my ducks at dusk until about 9:00 am to collect their eggs and keep them safe from predators. It also makes it easier for me to collect their overnight manure.

As we mentioned earlier, duck poop is a bit runny. So, you can’t just scrape and sweep it up like you can with chickens. Given the quantity produced, you’re going to need a lot of litter to keep your ducks from dancing in doo each night. But that’s OK because:

Litter + Poop = Compost

Since hay grows well in my area, is super cheap, and is almost always minimally sprayed, I use hay as duck litter. It takes about one square bale of hay each week for 20 ducks.

Each morning when I let the ducks out, I dump their water around their duck house to more evenly disperse their manure. I layer on about an inch of fresh hay. Straw, wood shavings, and sawdust will also work.

At night, I fill their water and food bowls and close the ducks in at night. The next day I dump the water and apply hay. I do this for about two weeks. Then I use a pitchfork and move all that manured hay into a compost pile. I usually just build the pile to about 4 feet high by 4 feet wide and let it sit there for six months until it is mostly black and crumbly.

Method 4: Don’t Want to Build a Pile? Go Mobile!

If pitchforking poop is not your thing, then think about a mobile duck coop. Ducks don’t like to climb ramps and roost high as chickens do. So consider using a movable chain link cube with wheels and a tarp top as a duck house alternative.

You can just let ducks have the floor overnight. Add in a couple of movable nest boxes (or not since ducks don’t necessarily use them anyway), and you’re set!

Put your coop in place. Use the same procedure detailed above for a fixed coop. Then after two weeks move your coop. Leave all that good stuff in place, and come back and plant in it a month later.

If you have a lot of predator pressure, consider an electric fence to protect your ducks at night better.

Method 5: Duck and Cover (Crops)

If your land is light on organic matter, consider using ducks to help you with your cover cropping. After using either the Go Mobile or the Edible Access method, plant your cover crops.

When you would normally bring in the mower to chop and drop all those cover crops, instead bring back the ducks. The ducks will eat your cover crops, apply more poop, and smother whatever they don’t eat. Then you can move the ducks off, plant your next round cover crop and repeat. If you do this several times, you’ll build soil mass in a hurry and help cut your duck feed costs as well.

Make sure you plant things that are edible for your ducks. Most cover crops are, but do a little research just to be sure. Buckwheat, hard winter wheat, tillage radishes, mustard, rye, Austrian peas, and clovers all work well.

I don’t know about you, but I think all these great ways to use duck poop around the homestead are worth crowing about! So, say it with me…

DUCK-ER-DOO-DLE-DOO!!

Wild hogs may not be as revered as venison, but with the right recipes and the right cuts of meat, I’d argue that wild hog is just as good as venison.

By far, the best cut of meat from wild hog is tenderloin, but there are many more cuts worth knowing.

6 Best Cuts of Meat From a Wild Hog

In essence, most cuts of meat from a wild hog are good, which makes it difficult to pick the best.

Much of the decision comes down to what you want to eat. The flavor profile is the same through most cuts, and it’s primarily textural differences that make one cut stand out above another.

Some cuts are more suited to specific tasks, like a backstrap is most suitable for jager schnitzel.

However, if I could only choose 6 cuts, these would be my choices:

Tenderloin

The tenderloin is the king of all cuts across a range of large animals, and this is no different for wild hogs.

Arguably the only cut better than the tenderloin is the fillet mignon, which of course, is actually part of the tenderloin.

However, for wild boar, I like to use the whole tenderloin.

Wild boar tenderloins are not very large but what the lack in size they make up for in texture and taste.

They are a very versatile cut of meat that can be roasted, grilled, fried, or smoked.

My favorite recipes with wild hog tenderloin are stirfry and roasted.

Because the tenderloins are not very large and extremely tender, they cook fast.

Backstrap/Loin

If the tenderloin is the best cut of meat from a wild hog, the backstrap has to be the second best.

The backstrap or loin is the long muscle that runs along the top of the back.

If you were to divide the top of a wild hog into four, it would go top of the head, blade, shoulder, loin, then leg.

The loin would be second on the scale of tenderness, only second to the tenderloin.

However, unlike venison backstrap, wild boar loin tends to be a little drier, which also makes it a little more challenging to cook.

For this reason, I recommend using a good brine if you are baking or roasting.

If you are confident in your cooking skills you can also use a marinade to add flavor and tenderize the meat a little more.

There are a plethora of dishes that you can make with wild boar loin, which is why it is on our list of best cuts.

One of my favorite dishes is a simple German dish, wild boar Jagerschnitzel.

This dish is simple to make, the meat does not dry out, and it’s tasty.

Ribs

This may be an unpopular opinion simply because of the work involved, but if you are not afraid of a little work to get some of the best flavors any wild game has to offer, then you could easily move wild boar ribs to the top of the list.

Earlier I said most cuts of wild boar meat taste the same, and the main difference is the texture and versatility; well, ribs change all that.

They are only moderately versatile but probably the most flavorful cut of meat from wild hogs.

The downside is there is a lot of work in preparing them, and there is not much meat.

Unlike your regular pork ribs, wild hog ribs have much more membrane, which is also tougher, and a lot of silver skin to contend with.

I like to treat them similarly to shanks; I sear them on the grill to get a nice char, after which I continue with whatever recipe, such as smoking, barbecuing, or simply baking.

Shank

Yet another controversial cut, the shank, makes it to the top of my list. Just like the ribs, most people aren’t willing to put in the effort for shanks, which is a shame because they really are one of the best cuts of meat.

Like the ribs, the shanks are very flavorful. Also, like the ribs, they are covered in silver skin and membrane.

The shank is an extremely tough cut of meat, but with the right approach can be turned into very tender meat.

A classic shank dish is osso buco, which is not traditionally made with wild boar, but forgive me if I say I prefer it to venison osso buco.

Another way to get fall-apart tender meat is in the pressure cooker, and you could use my venison recipe to make pulled shank tacos.

Whatever you choose to make, give it time, and you will not regret eating wild boar shanks.

Boston Butt

Another choice cut of wild hog that may not get as much love as it should is the Boston butt.

The name may be confusing because this cut of meat comes from the shoulder.

The Boston butt is from the higher part of the shoulder, above the picnic shoulder.

This is one of the best cuts for pulled wild hog. The Boston butt is typically well-marbled and tender due to its limited activity.

This cut can be used in many different ways. I have sliced and grilled it, made sausages and burgers, and made pulled pork from it.

One thing worth remembering is that it is a little on the fatty side, and most people find the taste of pork fat unpleasant.

In pulled pork, the taste may be unnoticeable, but for other dishes, you may want to cut the fat out unless you have a smaller hog.

Ham

This list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning ham. Wild hog ham is just as good if not better than pork ham.

I know this may be hard to believe, given that pork ham has all that juicy fat to add flavor.

The difference is when it comes to smoking. The flavor of wild hog works so much better with smoking than pork.

With a simple wet brine and your favorite wood for smoking, you can turn a wild hog ham into a masterpiece that will impress the fussiest of your friends.

Final Thoughts

Like most people, it’s difficult for me to choose my favorite one of anything. I’d rather have them all.

Choosing the best cut depends greatly on your skill level and what cooking methods you have access to.

If I had to choose one cut from the list as my favorite, I would probably opt for the ribs. They have so much flavor, better than any beef or pork ribs you have ever tried.