Cane pole fishing might seem primitive compared to other types of rod fishing, but you’ll be pleasantly surprised by how fun and exciting it is, even if it is reel-free. But how do you get started on this fishing method that dates back generations?

We’ll walk you through everything you need to know about cane pole fishing, including how to make one!

What Is a Cane Pole?

Before buying your supplies for a DIY cane pole for fishing, you need to know what a cane pole is. Don’t worry, though. It is not as complex as you think it is.

A cane pole is a long stick that usually has a 1″-1-1/2″ butt diameter and is between 8-foot-20-foot in length. Some are made from bamboo, while others are graphite or fiberglass. Unlike modern fishing rods, a cane pole doesn’t have a reel, drag system, and line guide. As a matter of fact, you will be using a line as long as the pole itself, if not a tad longer. The hook is at the end of the line, wherein you can use live or artificial baits.

What Are the Different Types of Cane Poles?

Bamboo fishing rods and poles are the most popular. However, there are other types of cane poles that you can use.

Telescopic Cane Poles

Telescopic poles are made from graphite or fiberglass instead of treated bamboo. This choice of material makes them more lightweight. Since they are collapsible, often shrinking half of their length, they are more compact for camping trips and air travel.

For convenience, many fiberglass telescopic poles also have add-ons like a metal eye tip and line keeper. Length can also vary too, ranging from 8-foot to 20-foot.

Calcutta Poles

Calcutta cane poles are made from solid bamboo, specifically the Calcutta Bamboo (Dendrocalamus Strictus) species. They are highly prized in the fishing community because of their strength and flexibility, which many argue is 100% better than fiberglass. A high-quality Calcutta Bamboo pole is also resistant to rot from saltwater.

These poles are available in various lengths, although most are between four and twenty-five feet long.

Pro Tip: The longevity of bamboo poles is determined by how well they are cared for.

Jigger Poles

Jigger poles are typically 15 to 20 feet long and can also be telescopic. They’re adaptable and great for fishing in places where traditional casting is tricky. Jigger poles can be bamboo, fiberglass, or graphite, among other materials. They’re strung with a short leader attached to the pole’s end and a plastic or wooden plug at the other end.

How to Rig a Cane Pole?

Rigging a cane pole is easier because there is no reel to deal with. However, it’s best first to secure your line lower down the pole’s body. This way, if the tip breaks under pressure, you won’t lose your line or fish.

Rigging a Bamboo Cane Pole

1. Tie a piece of dacron or monofilament to the center of your pole, just below a notch.
2. Twist the line to the tip of your bamboo pole by rotating the pole.
3. Do a half hitch and secure the line in the slit you made in the tip when you get to the top.
4. Make sure you have enough monofilament to reach the pole’s handle.
5. At the end of the line, add a swivel or a hook. If you want to adjust the depth of the hook, add a bobber and any split shot you want.
6. You can now put your bait to the test.

Rigging a Telescopic Cane Pole

Rigging a telescopic pole is as easy as stringing a bamboo rod. As a matter of fact, the procedure is nearly identical, except that there is a decreased danger of the tip breaking under stress.

How to Fish With a Cane Pole

Cane pole fishing is pretty simple, but since it doesn’t have any reel and your line is limited, it can be challenging at first. Here’s how you can master cane pole fishing.

1. Lower your line into the water by gradually dipping the rod below and slowly raising it.
2. Avoid moving it around too quickly or forcefully.
3. Once you’ve hooked a fish, raise the pole above your head. This will bring the fish closer to the banks or boak.
4. Then grab the fish, either by hand or net and remove the hook.

Cane Pole Fishing Techniques and Tips

You can use cane fishing poles to catch small to medium-sized fish, including bluegills, crappies, and catfish. If you target a larger fish like a Northern Pike, we suggest using a conventional fishing rod.

• Bass: If you want to catch bass, make sure you use a bait that can function in cover. The bait should also look as natural as possible to the bass.
• Trout: Use a tiny fly as bait and travel upstream to the stream’s or pool’s mouth. This approach entails carefully dangling the fly 2 or 3 inches over the water’s surface and occasionally touching it, just like a natural fly would.

• Bluegill & Crappie: While crappie and bluegill are generally easy to catch, a cane fishing pole allows you to get your bait into hard-to-reach areas near dense cover.

• Catfish: Use a slightly heavier line and anchor your line closer to the base of the pole because the weight of this fish can put a strain on your pole and potentially cause it to crack.

How to Make a Cane Fishing Pole?

You don’t need a sophisticated rod to catch fish at your nearby lake. The following is a step-by-step guide to making your cane fishing pole:

1. Find a 10-foot to 20-foot long piece of bamboo. Choose one that is straight as much as possible.
2. Cut the bamboo stalk below the knuckle closest to the ground, near the root.
3. Remove any attached leaves, but be careful not to cut into the stalk itself.
4. Cut the tip of the stalk just above the last knuckle.
5. Allow the stalk to cure for a few weeks by hanging it in a dry location until it turns a solid tan hue. This ensures that the bamboo has dried thoroughly and will endure as long as feasible.
6. Sand the base and the rest of the pole.
7. Apply a coat or two of wood lacquer.
8. Set up your fishing cane and get started.

Cane Pole Fishing FAQ

What Are the Best Baits for Cane Poles?

When using a cane rod or pole to catch fish, the most common species are bluegill and tiny catfish. When going after catfish, you’ll use a variety of baits, including earthworms, crickets, mealworms, and a minnow-shaped plug that floats.

How Long Should a Cane Pole Line Be

The rope’s length should be enough to extend from the pole’s tip to the bottom. This ensures that even if the pole’s very thin tip broke, you could still land a bigger fish.

How to Cure a Cane Pole for Fishing?

You can cure a cane pole for fishing by laying the bamboo on a flat surface. It can take several weeks to months before it completely cures. You will know that the pole is cured if its color changes from green to brown. Never put bamboo poles under direct sunlight because they will crack.

Back to Basics

Cane pole fishing offers you the opportunity to go back to the basics of fishing! It may seem primitive and outdated, but the joy of catching a fish without using any modern fishing gear is exhilarating! Plus, it is a terrific method to learn to fish without spending a lot of money.

Are you interested in trying out shooting sports? If yes, you have come to the right place.

Shooting is a sport that requires both physical and mental skills. Shooters strive for technical excellence with a steady hand and steely nerves. 

Shooters who compete in the Olympics put in years of practice and training before attaining high standards. 

People of all ages and abilities can enjoy shooting. Many clubs offer classes for beginners and competitive leagues for those who want to test their skills.

This blog post covers everything from Shooting Sports rules and procedures to different types of shooting sports guns and events. 

So, keep reading, whether you’re a beginner or just want to know all about shooting sports!

Types Of Shooting Sports Guns

There are many different types of guns used in shooting sports. The following are the most common types of firearms that shooters use in the Olympics.

Shooting Rifle

Rifles are long guns that are typically used for hunting or target shooting. It’s single-loaded in 5.6-millimeter caliber (the inner diameter of a gun barrel), which is used for all events. 

These guns are used in the sport of rifle shooting. Since rifles have a longer barrel than pistols and shotguns, they require two hands to hold and are often more accurate at longer ranges. 

Shots are fired from a standing position. Both men and women can participate in the 10m air rifle event. 

Pistol

A pistol is a short air gun that can be held in one hand. These airguns have shorter barrels than rifles and are less accurate at long distances.

The pistol used for the 10m Air Pistol competition is a single-loaded 4.5-millimeter pistol, while the Rapid Fire Pistol used in the 25m competition is 5.6 caliber with a five-shot magazine. 

In the Olympics, only men can participate in the 25m Rapid Fire Pistol event. 

Shotgun

Shotguns are long guns that have double barrels that are smooth-bore. They are used for hunting birds and small game. 

They are 12-gauge shotguns with a caliber of 18.5 millimeters. A gauge is a unit of measurement used to describe the barrel’s diameter. 

Shotgun activities include trap and skeet. Both men and women can compete in these shotgun shooting events. 

Shooting Sports Uniform

Shooters use particular jackets and cushioned trousers to improve their ability to focus on the target. That’s because the surface of the jackets is non-slippery, which ensures a good grip, primarily for rifle shooters. 

The extra padding in the jackets also helps to improve the shooter’s precision and provides a firm base for a perfect shooting position.

When it comes to shoes, sport-specific shoes are not a requirement. However, they can provide extra grip and ankle support. Some shooters also prefer to wear gloves to protect their hands from the gun’s recoil.

Blinders are another piece of equipment used by shooters. It helps the shooter remain focused on their target. It’s permissible for shooters to use blinders during shooting, which reduces peripheral vision and increases focus.

Shooting Sports Events At The Olympic Games

The shooting discipline has gained prominence in the Olympic Games since Athens in 1896. 

There are 15 events in the Olympic Programme of Shooting Sport, divided into three disciplines: Rifle, Pistol, and Shotgun. 

In the Olympic Games, there are events for both men and women. Olympics compete in six events for men, six for women, and three for mixed events. 

The following are three different shooting sports events that take place at the Olympic Games:

Rifle Event

In rifle shooting, shooters must fire at a target within a prescribed distance from a standing position. The targets are placed at a distance of 10metres. The event is divided into two subcategories: 50m Rifle 3 Positions event and 10m Air Rifle event. 

In the 50m Rifle 3 Positions event, shooters must fire at targets from three different positions: prone, standing, and kneeling. The 10m Air Rifle event is for both men and women.

Pistol Event

In pistol shooting, the target is placed at a distance of 25metres. The event is divided into three distinct subcategories: 25m Rapid Fire Pistol, 25m Pistol, and 10m Air Pistol. Shooters have to fire one-handed without any assistance in every category.

Shotgun Event

The shotgun event is one of the most popular events in the shooting sport. The event is divided into two distinct events: Trap and Skeet. In the trap event, shooters must fire targets that are released from a trap house. 

Shooters have to fire at a clay flying object diameter of 10cm in these events. The shooter has to throw the object at a speed of 100 kph.

Shooting Sports Rules

The shooting rules are governed by the International Shooting Sport Federation (ISSF). The ISSF is the international governing body for the sport of shooting.

Here are a few general rules and procedures that are followed in most shooting sports:

Procedures For Breaking Ties

If there is a tie during qualification rounds, the ISSF Rules will apply. The rules vary from event to event. A shoot-off will be used to determine the winner if there is still a tie. It will happen in the final stages of Rifle and Pistol events, not Shotgun events.

In Shotgun events, the person with the highest qualification score will win if there is a tie. If there is still a tie after that, there will be a shoot-off to determine who gets the gold and silver medals. 

Penalties And  Disqualifications

Shooters may protest the value of their shot by filing a score protest. If the shot is ruled as a miss, a two-point penalty will be assessed. The Classification Jury follows recognized procedures to resolve such protests.

If a shooter breaks the ISSF rules, he or she may receive a warning, a penalty, or be disqualified. The type of penalty will depend on the severity of the violation.

Warnings are given for minor infractions, such as not following the dress code. Generally, penalties are imposed for cross-fired rounds, while disqualifications are caused by failing the pistol weight test or the rifle clothing test.

Appeals And Protests

If an athlete or team believes there has been a mistake or injustice, they have the right to lodge an appeal or protest. ISSF rules specify protest or appeal timeframes for all shooting sports competitions. 

After all these issues have been resolved, the official results will be released. The Appeal Jury is the final authority on all appeals and protests.

Final Words

I hope you enjoyed reading this article. I have tried to explain all the basics of shooting sports in simple terms.

Shooting sports are a type of competitive sport where participants use firearms to hit targets.  

The sport requires a great deal of skill, concentration, and practice. To succeed, participants must control their accurately and precisely hit their targets. 

Shooters must also have strong hand-eye coordination and a steady hand to hit their targets consistently. 

Remember, practice makes perfect. So, if you are interested in taking up shooting as a sport, start practicing now!

It’s no secret that wild game meat can be tougher than farmed meat.

Wild animals use their muscles much more than their domestic counterparts thus leading to tougher meat.

However, on the flip side, you usually end up with a healthier and more flavorful product.

The good news is it’s also easy to tenderize wild boar meat, and there are a few methods of doing so.

Marinade

One of the most common methods of tenderizing wild boar meat is by marinating it.

One of the great things about using this method is that not only does it tenderize the meat but it flavors it also.

Marinades vary according to your desire. There are many options to choose from for both flavor and tenderizing effects.

For a marinade to tenderize hog meat it must have an acidic or enzymatic ingredient.

Common acidic ingredients are vinegar, citrus juice, wine, and yogurt.

Common enzymatic ingredients include pineapple, papaya, kiwi, and ginger.

Both of these types of ingredients can make wild boar meat tender, but they do it in different ways.

Using acids in a marinade denatures proteins, meaning it causes them to unfold by changing the pH level.

Enzymes, on the other hand, break down proteins into smaller fragments.

Best For:

• Tenderloin
• Backstrap (loin)
• Chops

Steps:

1. Choose a marinade that contains either an acidic or enzymatic ingredient
2. Mix marinade ingredients together
3. Place wild boar meat in a vacuum bag
4. Pour over marinade and seal
5. Place in fridge for 4 – 12 hours

Brine

Brining meat is not a new technology and has been around for thousands of years.

Yet, it’s still one of the best methods for tenderizing wild hog meat.

Typically brines are used for the preservation of meat like wild boar ham or bacon.

However, they have also been known to tenderize meat and are often used to do so before smoking.

While brining isn’t as effective as marinades for breaking down meat, it can still tenderize meat through osmosis and diffusion.

As the meat sits in the brine, osmosis causes the meat to absorb some water and salt.

The salt then causes the protein to denature (unwind), and hold more water, thus making the meat more tender.

Every brine must include salt and water, however, it’s also a good opportunity to flavor the meat by adding in other ingredients.

Other ingredients could include, sugar, spices, herbs, or curing salt for preservation.

However, if using curing salt you need to ensure the balance between curing and kosher salt to prevent making the meat too salty.

Best For:

• Hams
• Bacon
• Large muscle groups (shoulder, hind leg)
• Chops

Steps:

1. Weigh the meat and determine the correct salt and water ratio
2. Dissolve the salt in the water
3. Add the wild boar to the water
4. Place in the refrigerator
5. For small cuts like chops or steak brine for 2-4 hours
6. For large cuts like whole loin or rack brine for 12-24 hours
7. For curing brine for 1.25 days per pound

Aging

Aging is another century-old technique for tenderizing meat.

While this method of tenderizing wild boar meat is a bit more effort, it’s very effective at tenderizing.

There are two methods for aging meat, (1) Wet aging, and (2) Dry aging.

Wet aging is the easiest of the two options and can be done at home with little more than a vacuum packer.

Dry aging is a little more involved and will need a dedicated fridge with proper airflow and humidity management.

One of the great benefits of dry aging is not only is it effective in tenderizing meat but it also intensifies the flavor of the meat.

Aging wild boar tenderizes the meat by enzymatic breakdown.

The enzymes are naturally present in the muscle tissue of the wild hog, and by managing the temperature you can use them to tenderize the meat without the bacteria spoiling the meat.

Best For:

• Loin
• Tenderloin

Steps:

Dry aging:

1. Clean the meat surface and pat it dry with paper towels.
2. Prepare a dedicated refrigerator or cooler. Ensure it can maintain a consistent temperature just above freezing (around 34°F or 1°C).
3. Maintain a relative humidity of around 80-85% within the refrigerator.
4. Ensure good airflow within the refrigerator, possibly using a small fan.
5. Place the meat on a wire rack to allow airflow all around it. Ensure it doesn’t touch any walls or other items.
6. Regularly check the temperature and humidity levels to ensure they remain consistent.
7. Allow the meat to age for the desired period, typically ranging from a few weeks to several months, depending on preference.
8. Inspect the meat periodically for any signs of excessive mold growth or spoilage.
9. Once the aging process is complete, remove the meat from the refrigerator. Trim away the hard outer crust and any moldy or oxidized portions.

Wet aging:

1. Place the hog meat in a vacuum-sealable bag. Using a vacuum sealer, remove all the air and seal the bag tightly. This anaerobic environment aids in the aging process while preventing unwanted bacterial growth on the surface.
2. Store the vacuum-sealed pork in a refrigerator set just above freezing, typically around 32°F to 34°F (0°C to 1°C). The cold temperature slows the growth of harmful bacteria while allowing the enzymes in the meat to break down muscle fibers and enhance tenderness.
3. Age the hog meat for 5-14 days. While some of the benefits of aging will be noticeable after just a few days, a more extended period can result in a more pronounced change in tenderness and flavor.
4. Periodically check the vacuum-sealed bags to ensure they remain tightly sealed with no leaks. A compromised bag can expose the meat to harmful bacteria.
5. After the aging period, remove the pork from the bag. There may be a distinct smell initially, but it should dissipate after a few minutes. If the odor remains strong and unpleasant, it’s a sign of spoilage, and the meat should be discarded. The pork should also be inspected visually for any signs of off-color or mold.

Meat Mallet

One of the simplest methods of tenderizing wild boar meat is using a meat mallet.

This is a method that I use often, particularly for German wild boar (schnitzel).

The tenderizing here is happening in two ways, (1) connective tissues and fibers break, and (2) the meat gets thinner.

Beyond this, there is no chemical reaction like the other methods mentioned above.

This method is perfect if you are in a hurry or are only looking to tenderize the meat a little bit.

If you have a particularly tough cut of meat you should choose one of the other options as this method is limited in its tenderizing ability.

Best For:

• Chops
• Schnitzel

Steps:

1. Lay the meat flat on a chopping board
2. Cover with plastic wrap
3. Using your meat mallet, gently pound the meat from the center out
4. Continue until you reach your desired thickness

Slow Cooking

The slow cooker is one of the best methods for tenderizing tough cuts of meat.

This is my go-to method for the toughest cuts of meat such as shanks, ribs, neck, etc.

The slow cooker uses low heat and time for tenderizing meat. It’s fantastic for stews, roasts, or rib dishes.

The meat will literally fall off the bone as it did in my Korean ribs dish, if you leave it long enough.

While I mostly use the slow cooker for ribs and stews, etc.. If you want to tenderize prime cuts of meat such as the loin by slow cooking, you can do this by using a sous vide.

The principle is the same, the meat gets tenderized by low heat over a long period of time.

Best For:

• Ribs
• Shanks
• Roasts

Steps:

1. Brown the meat on a hot pan
2. Place in slow cooker along with other ingredients
3. Cook for 6-8 hours
4. Plate and serve

Velveting

One method of tenderizing wild boar meat that is often overlooked is velveting.

This is an Asian technique that is used to tenderize thing cuts of meat quickly.

Best For

• Any thinly sliced meat

Steps:

1. Place meat in a nonreactive container
2. Pour over baking soda or cornstarch
3. Rest for 20-30 minutes
4. Rinse meat and pat dry

Allow 1 1/2 teaspoons of baking soda for 1lb of meat.

Rock veteran Ted Nugent initially gained fame as the lead guitarist of The Amboy Dukes during the early times of his career. The rocker embarked on a solo career following his band’s break-up and has been releasing successful records such as ‘Cat Scratch Fever,’ ‘Free-For-All,’ and ‘Tooth Fang and Claw’ since then.

Perhaps one of the things that is as famous as his music career is Nugent’s private life. The musician mostly makes the headlines with his controversial conservative political views. In addition to this, he unapologetically supports gun ownership rights and hunting.

When his interesting opinions are combined with his successful music career, finding something unique about the musician’s life is almost inevitable. In fact, there was one time when Nugent gave his first two children for adoption and met them for the first timeafter four decades, thanks to his daughter. Let’s dive into this one-of-a-kind story together.

Ted Nugent Gave His Two Children Away

Ted Nugent has been married twice in his lifetime and currently has six children with four women. When he was a wild and young rock star, the musician had a son and a daughter with his then-girlfriend in the late 1960s before his first marriage.

Since he was a very young artist who couldn’t take care of a kid, Nugent gave up his children for adoption when they were firstborn. The siblings were adopted separately and had no contact with one another. Furthermore, they didn’t know anything about their father and each other until 2010.

In one of his articles, Nugent looked back on those times and said he didn’t want to give away his baby, Theodore Fleetwood Nugent. However, he and his girlfriend knew they weren’t ready for parenting. After their break up, the rocker kept thinking about his kids but preferred to stay away from their lives.

Recalling those days, Nugent penned:

“My girlfriend was at the hotel with our brand new son, Theodore Fleetwood Nugent, and we both knew that we were not ready to raise a child, so we reluctantly handed off this beautiful baby to a Catholic adoption agency, certain we were doing the right thing.

Life blazed on, and his mother and I drifted apart as teenage lovers are wont to do, but I never stopped thinking about little Fleetwood throughout the very intense adventure that my amazing career provided. The adoption papers were sealed, so the last thing I wanted to do was intervene and possibly disrupt the life Fleetwood was living with his new family.”

The entire situation wasn’t made public until 2010 when Nugent’s daughter Louisa found out about her biological father and requested to contact him. The following story is incredibly touching as both children, who are now grown-ups, found out that their father is a rock star.

Ted Nugent Met His Son After 42 Years

A New York restaurant owner who was adopted as an infant was shocked when he discovered that his biological father is Ted Nugent. When Nugent’s daughter found out about him through the adoption agency, she also found his brother and wanted to see her biological family. Thus, one day, Theodore Fleetwood Nugent got an unexpected phone call from a sister he never knew he had.

The two siblings reached out to Ted Nugent, who also penned this emotional experience in his article. On Theodore’s 42nd birthday, they got together for the first time, which was a heartfelt and incredibly happy reunion, according to Nugent. The rocker stated that his children were raised by great families who turned them into amazing Americans.

In his article, Nugent wrote:

“Well, long story short, on October 28, 2010, on his 42nd birthday, the planets aligned, and with the help of his sister Louisa (another amazing story unto itself) the three of us met together for the very 1st time since his birth, and what a wonderful, glorious, emotional and incredibly happy reunion it was!

Both Fleetwood and Louisa were raised by wonderful, loving families, and the fact that they both grew into great Americans is testimony to the love of adopted families.”

Since then, Ted Nugent has been close with his two children. He even recently celebrated his son’s 53rd birthday, saying he’s loved by everybody around him. It appears that their touching reunion over a decade ago bonded the father and son for the rest of their lives.

The Remington Model Seven Rifle makes a nifty, thrifty, and swift little hunting set-up.

I squeezed off shot #3, and it made a tight cloverleaf on my target. And then I got nervous, knowing what had happened too many times before: three rounds downrange, a half-inch group, and then I start pulling shots.

I was testing the new Remington Model Seven rifle in the Mossy Oak Bottomland finish, topped with Trijicon’s new Huron 2.5-10×40 rifle scope. My ammunition for this phase of my shooting was Federal Premium Vital Shok .308 Win., launching a 168-grain Trophy Copper bullet. I shot from a rest at my outdoor range, my target set up at 100 yards.

Remington Model Seven Review

Shooting the Remington Model Seven

I opened the bolt on the rifle to let in the 20-degree Fahrenheit Wisconsin air, and took a short walk to ease my nerves. From there, I got back behind the rifle, did some slow breathing exercises, and took my next shot. It touched the holes left by the previous three bullets!

And Shot #5? I pulled it. A little. But the whole group still came in at just .97-inches, with my first four shots an outstanding .44-inches.

One accurate little rifle, I decided, this Model Seven Bottomland, and a great option for the hunter. Yet, the Model Seven is also a rifle line that’s generally been ignored.

A Gun Long In Production

Remington launched the Model Seven line in 1983. It was made and marketed as a more compact option to Remington’s flagship Model 700 bolt. It is roughly 2.5-inches shorter than a standard 700, and Remington sells some of these smallish rifles every year, keeps coming out with different versions.

Yet, I rarely see the rifle reviewed in the shooting and outdoor media. And, while it’s admittedly a small empirical sample, I do travel around the country rather extensively on hunts and shooting events; and, I have never seen someone with a Model Seven.

Model 700’s? All over the country.

However, if you hunt from a tree stand or an enclosed blind, need a gun for close-in hunting in thick country and/or want a nimble truck gun? You should take a serious look at a Model Seven Bottomland with its 16.5-inch barrel.

My Set-Up

For my shooting with the Model Seven Bottomland model, I also used .308 Win hunting ammunition from Dynamic Research Technologies (DRT) , with their 175-grain frangible bullet, and Hornady’s Full Boar firing a 165-grain GMX projectile.

I had no problem getting MOA and SUB-MOA groups with all three brands of ammunition—if I let the rifle cool a bit after the third shot. The slim-profile barrel of the Model Seven Bottomland heats up quickly, and when I fired off five shots too quickly, either (or both) shot #4 or #5 would go .5- to 1.0-inch wide.

On average, the Hornady came in right at 1.00-inch groups for five shots, the DRT at 1.15-inches, and the Federal at .90-inches. Each ammunition brand also pegged .5-inch groups of three and four shots within those five-shot strings.

The Model Seven features Remington’s own X-Mark Pro Trigger. The trigger can be externally adjusted from 3 to 5 pounds of trigger pull with a 1/16” Allen wrench. However, my Lyman Electronic Digital Trigger Pull Gauge measured the pull on my rifle at a crisp 2 pounds, 7 ounces.

Magazine, Stock, & Recoil

The Model Seven’s internal magazine holds four rounds and features a hinged floor plate. The barrel is factory threaded at 5/8”-24 for a suppressor or muzzle break; a Picatinny rail section mounted atop the receiver makes for easy optics mounting.

As noted, the synthetic stock is finished in Mossy Oak’s popular Bottomland camouflage pattern. Which may strike some as a little dark. But you certainly won’t have to worry about the stock catching the attention of a sharp-eyed deer.

The recoil on the Model Seven was rather snappy. Not a surprise for a rifle that weighs just six pounds, with a short barrel and chambered in .308 Win. The recoil was not terrible; but if I was buying this rifle for a younger shooter or someone a little recoil shy? I’d opt for the 6.5 Creedmoor or 300 BLK chambering, the other two calibers available for the model Seven Bottomland.

All in all? A first-rate and nicely compact hunting rifle.

SPECS: Remington Model Seven Bottomland

• Caliber as tested: .308 Win
• Barrel Length: 16 1/2″
• Twist Rate: 1:10, Right
• Barrel Material: Carbon Steel
• Threaded: 5/8”-24
• Magazine Capacity: 4
• Total Length: 34 1/4″
• Avg. Wt. (Lbs.): 6
• Length of Pull: 13 3/8”
• Drop (Comb): 1 ¼”
• Drop (Heel): 1 ½”
• Barrel Finish: Matte Black
• Stock Material: Synthetic
• Stock Finish: Mossy Oak Bottomland
• Misc.: Rail on Receiver, Push Tang Safety, Super Cell recoil pad.
• MSRP Under $800

“You have an AR-15. You’re coming.”

So, despite my naïve protests about being a shooter not a hunter, I was dragged into the world of tactical hunting. A pile of dead hogs later, I was hooked. I no longer own any of the gear I used that day. I’ve gone through many iterations and changes in my kit. Thanks in part to my role here at SHWAT.com I’ve had opportunities to try all kinds of configurations for hog hunting guns. So when I was recently asked about how to set up an AR-15 for Hog Hunting, I readily agreed to answer here. While I’ll be the first to say that there’s no one size that fits all, when you’ve finished reading I think you’ll have a better idea of how to set up your own AR-15 for some tactical hog hunting. Then it’s time to chase some wild boar!

Why focus specifically on setting up the AR-15 for hog hunting? It’s this generation’s gun, and for good reason. The limitless configurations make it one of the most versatile guns on earth. The hardest part is figuring out what you want, never mind need, as you customize your AR-15. Since you’re reading this, you’re more likely to own an AR-15 than any other single gun. Here are some questions and answers for you to consider when getting set up to hunt wild hogs with yours.

Caliber? Perhaps your first consideration is caliber. I don’t know how many different calibers an AR-15 can be built in. Hogs are hunted with a lot of them including .223/5.56, 300 Blackout, .458 SOCOM, 6.5 Grendel, 6.8 SPC II, and countless others. I’ve killed hogs with most of those and others as well. This will surprise some, but not everyone: I’ve killed more wild pigs with .223 than any other caliber. Modern loads render some of the old conventional wisdom obsolete. Remington Hog Hammer made with Barnes 62 grain TSX bullets has demonstrated excellent performance for SHWAT™ writer Brian McCombie, and I’ve had great experience with DRT Ammo’s .223 on hogs weighing 200+ pounds.

A lot of buzz over 300 Blackout during the past couple of years has lead many to explore that round. I’ve been cautious about getting too wrapped up in it, but I plan to give it a workout this year. Having hunted with sub sonic rounds through a short barreled AR pistol with Liberty Suppressors Mystic X silencer, I wasn’t impressed. Maybe it was the ammo; maybe the distance was too great. It was definitely quiet. We’ll try it again with some unique ammo, but super sonic 300 Blackout looks more promising. But like .458 SOCOM and 6.8 SPC II, your range is a bit more limited. If you’re hunting under 200 yards, any of these rounds should be great. If you’re planning longer range hog hunting, the 6.5 Grendel might just be your pick.

Day or Night? Night hunting hogs is a real blast. Adding a white light to your gun is easy and doesn’t have to cost a fortune. If the shooting gets fast as the daylight fades to dark, your white light becomes a real asset. I’ve watched Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat point a white light at hogs who were undeterred by its presence. Bill has spent countless hours with the hogs figuring out which white lights scare them, and the specifics of color temperature and technique that leave hogs comfortable and vulnerable.

Most hunters effectively bagging hogs in the dark have instead employed a broad variety of weapon mounted green and red lights, particularly when hunting predictable places like feeders. Alternatively, you can also equip a feeder with remote control lights like the Inhawgnito, but that’s another story. Flashlights in white, green and red are all easy add-ons to your AR build that won’t trash your bottom line. An important side note: you’ll want your AR to use a hand guard that allows for mounting accessories. Three or four years ago that generally meant a quad picatinny rail. Today you have countless options.

But there are better, albeit far more expensive, doors to crash. Jump into the high tech world of night vision and thermal optics and you’re into a whole new level of the game. Instead of spending a hundred dollars for a light, you’ll spend ten to twenty times that to access what many consider to be the pinnacle of tactical hunting. Case in point: Recently I’ve been highly impressed by the line of thermal optics from IR Defense. I’ve watched IRD grow for a year, and recently hunted with their IR Hunter Mk II. Using this thermal optic, I was able to identify hogs at 400 yards and shoot them on the run at 125 yards. Thermal can fool you though. Rocks at a distance can look remarkably like a group of pigs far off. Stay tuned to SHWAT.com for more on that.

An alternative to thermal is traditional night vision (NV). We’re talking the usual green images. It’s great military technology available to us and allows for the use of infrared lasers and illuminators of countless price points and configurations. The best gear for this is almost as pricey as thermal, but has the added benefit of being able to drive and scan for hogs without any additional lighting. For as little as $3100 a number of manufacturers like TNVC are producing NV monoculars that can be mounted to your AR-15 or to a helmet. We’ll cover your NV options more thoroughly later on here at SHWAT.com.

Hunting during the day is pretty straightforward. Have an optic that works for your scenario and get to work. Obviously, your scenario makes a difference along with your preference in optics. Years ago I invested in a Trijicon ACOG ECOS system that gave me a 4x magnified optic with a red dot 1x unmagnified optic combination. It remains a favorite set up. Red dot sights like the EoTech and Aimpoint optics are super fast to use with both eyes open and I’ve enjoyed great success with them as well. If you plan on bagging multiple hogs from a group, you’ll be hard pressed to beat this kind of a set up.

Alternatively, more magnification both increases the ranges you can make confident shots at and adds precision to virtually any shot beyond 50 yards. There are probably as many magnified optics choices as there are ammo choices. Lots of optics are good enough to hunt hogs mid day at 150 yards. Your run of the mill 3-9x scope might be just fine. However, cheap scopes simply aren’t as sharp and lose contrast quickly at higher magnification. Lack of high quality optical coatings can leave you unable to see clearly with your scope angled towards a late afternoon or early morning sun, washing out when pointed in the direction of the sun. Brands like Trijicon, Nightforce, US Optics and Bushnell Elite Tactical are all winners at various price and feature points.

How will you hunt? If you hunt from a blind you might not need a sling on your AR-15. I prefer spot and stalk hunts which leave me carrying my rifle so I value a sling. Single point slings are often preferred by tactical shooters, but for walking any significant distance, I prefer the stability of a good two point sling over an AR bouncing around on a single point sling. Over time I’ve collected a number of slings including convertible single/dual point models, but my go-to sling, a Viking Tactics two point padded model, remains my favorite.

Triggers? If precision is important to your hunting, you need an upgraded trigger. Truth is, once you’ve used a good drop in trigger replacement you’ll probably loath whatever trigger came in your rifle. I’ve pulled Timney, Wilson Combat, CMC flat triggers and plenty of others. It seems like there’s a new drop in trigger maker for the AR-15 popping up every other month. Most are pretty good; some have nice proven track records if that’s important to you.

While there’s no limit on interchangeable AR-15 configurations, these considerations combined with your personal preferences of brand, grips, stocks, etc. will get you all set to hog hunt with your AR-15. Fact is, getting set up to hunt hogs with the puzzle pieces covered here will also get you set up to effectively hunt various varmints, deer and other exciting prospects for the tactical hunter. Want to show off your favorite setup? Tag @SHWATteam on Instagram.

If you’ve ever tasted gin, you know what juniper berries taste like. The flavor is sometimes described as citrusy and evergreen, sometimes as reminiscent of rosemary. Juniper fruit has both bitter and sweet overtones. It’s complex, and useful for flavoring much more than gin.

Technically, juniper berries are cones, but they’re soft, fleshy cones, rather than the more familiar, hard, spiky cones. Since this isn’t a botany class, let’s just call them berries for the sake of conversation.

The fruit of common juniper (Juniperus communis) is generally considered to be the most flavorful juniper berry, but J. virginiana (eastern red cedar) also produces tasty, edible berries. These are the two most common species in the U.S.

Juniper fruit takes about two years to ripen, so it’s not unusual to find both green (unripe) and purple/blue (ripe) fruit on the tree at the same time. And while a ripe fruit makes an excellent trail nibble, an unripe fruit is intensely bitter and unpleasant. I use them to make cocktail bitters, but not for eating out of hand.

You can buy dried juniper berries in the spice section of a good market, but it’s so easy to harvest your own, you’d be crazy not to give it a try. Plus, who knows how long those store-bought berries have been sitting on the shelf? When you forage for your own juniper, you’ll know exactly how fresh and flavorful they are.

The flavor of fresh juniper fruit is juicy and complex. Dried berries aren’t juicy, but they are spicy and enticing. Fresh or dry, juniper berries have a strong flavor, so use them in moderation. Just a few berries, coarsely ground in a mortar with a pestle, are enough to flavor an entire batch of sauerkraut. They also make a great glaze for cookies and a super-simple fermented beverage called smreka.

I’m often asked if juniper berries are safe to eat, and there’s some controversy about this subject. If eaten in huge quantities over an extended period of time, juniper berries may be toxic. But don’t let this alarm you unnecessarily.

The same can be said of other common cooking spices. For example, consuming large quantities of cassia cinnamon gives you too much coumarin, which may harm your liver and kidneys. But no one warns you not to bake with cinnamon. Because the amount we use in baking is generally safe. In the same way, using most juniper berries as a flavoring in dry rubs and marinades is perfectly safe, unless you have a specific allergy.

There is one juniper (Juniperus sabina) that may be dangerous when eaten, but scientific literature on the subject is frustratingly incomplete. Studies have been made of both the bark and essential oil of J. sabina. The amount of essential oil estimated as harmful to humans is approximately one gram. Unfortunately, this doesn’t take body weight into account and that is clearly relevant. One gram of a chemical constituent is going to have a different effect on a 200 pound man than it will on a 70 pound child. But even if we accept the one gram figure, this is considerably more essential oil than you would get in a few berries. And humans aren’t grazing on juniper bark the way livestock is.

An FDA abstract says that the fruit of J. sabina has high concentrations of several potentially dangerous phytochemicals, but is inconclusive. Here’s how it ends: “The quantity of toxic ingredients, sabinene and sabinol, in gin were unknown. Neither was anything known concerning their toxicity to man. In fact, no formal studies had ever been carried out on the chronic toxicity of these materials.”

J. sabina isn’t native to this country (although it may be sold as an ornamental), so in the United States you’re more likely to come across safe junipers like J. virginiana and J. communis if you’re foraging in the wild. I feel completely safe using the fruit of both of these plants in moderation. You, dear reader, will have to decide for yourself what you feel comfortable with. I hope you’ll taste a fruit before you decide.

In my opinion, a big mule deer buck is one of the hardest animals on earth to kill with a bow. They don’t have regular patterns like a whitetail; their eyes, ears and nose are superb. They usually hang with a group of other bachelor bucks, and together they employ a strategic method of bedding with somebody facing in every direction. They almost never drink in the daylight, rendering them all but impossible to ambush over water. And they don’t like to be disturbed: bump them once, and they’ll move to a different location or go nocturnal.

Muley bucks do have a couple weaknesses though: food and romance. And in some specific locations they like to bed in big, wide-open territory. That can put them in a stalk-able position. Let’s look at those three chinks in a buck’s armor and see if we can put an arrow through one of them.

Spot-and-StalkProbably the most respected method of hunting in the West, spotting and stalking can be exciting, adrenaline-ridden and effective. The above-timberline habitat of Colorado or Nevada and the broken high-plains badlands of Wyoming or the Dakota’s can be ideal for spotting and stalking big muley bucks with stick and string.

But spot-and-stalk methods can also be frustrating, physically extreme and futile. For instance, the mule deer where I live never bed in open stalk-able areas. They climb atop mesas and bed in thick pinyon/juniper forests. It’s impossible to spot them, and just as hard to stalk them.

To kill a big spot-and-stalk buck, you’ll first need to spot him, then put him to bed, and then stalk close enough for a shot. Let’s look at the process in detail.

1. Spot Climb a high vantage point and let your binoculars do the walking. You’ll be glassing up to a couple miles distant, so use premium optics. Once you spot bucks, study them through a spotting scope to determine if there’s a shooter buck amongst the group. Try to get to know the bucks while you watch them: How many are there? What are their habits? What is their pecking order? There’s always one schizophrenic buck in the gang; figure out who he is and avoid him. Most of all, figure out how the big boys move in relation to the group: Do they like to bed above, below, in the middle or to the side? The answers to these questions will dictate whether a buck is killable or not.

2. Put Your Buck to Bed. Early-season bucks usually feed for a few minutes up to several hours before heading to their morning beds. Spot them now, but don’t make a move. Watch as they work their way to a bedding area and lie down. You need to stay put a little longer though; most of the time a buck will bed—often, but not always, in the sun—for about 45 minutes to an hour, and then he’ll get up and move to a different bed in the shade. That’s when you make your move. Watch him for 15 minutes or so to be sure he’s settled in, and then go. You’ll have roughly three to five hours before he gets up to relieve himself and eat a midday snack.

3. Stalk in Close. While you’re waiting for the buck to settle in for the day, you need to strategize your approach. Figure out what the wind is doing at the buck’s location. Plan an approach route, and locate landmarks to keep you on track. Everything looks different when you’re on location than it does from a distance, so study it well, and then make your move. Ditch your shoes and pack while you close the last 100 yards, sneaking in on just your socks.

If you’ve planned and executed successfully, you’ll either be able to arrow the buck in his bed or set up downwind of the buck. Get comfortable and stay ready—ideally you should be able to see at least his antler tips. It may be several hours until he gets up. When you see him swivel his head a couple times, get ready. His antlers will swoop down and forward as he begins to get up—that’s when you draw your bow. You’ll have a few seconds to squeeze off the shot before he busts you and heads for the next county.

Hunt the RutWhen a big muley buck has romance on his mind he disregards all else, becoming very vulnerable. It’s the reason that there are almost no public land rifle hunts during the rut, and precious few archery hunts. Big bucks forget all their hard-earned survival tactics, charge around during all hours of the day and will look right at you and then go back to chasing tail. Peak rut in most locals happens in late November and early December, and a little research can turn up hunting seasons in various states. It’s a great time to hunt big muley bucks with a bow. Here’s what to do:

1. Shadow Doe Families. Mule deer bucks travel from doe family to doe family, looking for a group that’s coming into estrous. When he finds one, he’ll stay with them until they’re serviced (usually several days), then he’ll hit the road in search of another party. Your best tactic right now is to find does—lots of them—then stand by for a big boy to show up. Sneak in and set up downwind of the group and wait until he offers a shot.

2. Set Up on Travel Routes. As mentioned above, big bucks move a lot during the rut. I once watched a big rutty buck cover over a mile in less than fifteen minutes, checking three families of does along the way. Find a ridge-top saddle, pinch-point or natural funnel and set up downwind of it, much like you’d set up to hunt whitetail. If you’ve got doe groups on both sides of your position, you’re golden. Wait all day, especially if the weather is cool and/or overcast.

3. Rattle. Muleys don’t rattle up as readily as whitetails do, but if the timing is right, they’ll come in. Try getting within 150 yards downwind of a big buck and his does, and make like a couple rival bucks battling it out. You can also rattle to traveling bucks, giving the impression of two bucks fighting over hot does—you just might get lucky.

AmbushSuccessfully bushwhacking a big muley buck is all but impossible under ordinary circumstances. They’re just too nomadic. I’ve sat on a ridge top and watched the same bachelor bucks enter a 90-acre alfalfa field ten different ways in ten different days. That said, in my home turf, spot-and-stalk methods are next to impossible, and the rut happens months after the bowhunt is over, so the big bucks I’ve killed with a bow have all been ambushed. Here’s how to make it happen.

1. Bottlenecks. Though rare in good muley habitats, bottlenecks do exist. Case-in-point: one meadow I sometimes watch is bordered by a creek and has a sandstone point jutting alongside. The deer’s favorite bedding area is opposite that creek and point. The only way for them to get there is across the creek, past a huge ponderosa pine, and around the point. Sit there long enough and you’ll kill a buck. Another good place might be in a narrow ridge-top saddle between feeding and bedding areas. Just remember, mule deer go where the wind blows them, so the situation and terrain must be significant to create an effective ambush.

2. Attractants. Sometimes the only way to get within archery range of a mule deer buck is to hunt over something he wants pretty badly, such as a good acorn patch, a mineral lick or an apple tree near an old homestead. Those spots are few and hard to find, but if you locate one, you might see an old warrior compromise his safety for a nibble of his favorite treat. That’ll give you a chance to turn him into your favorite venison treat.

3. Decoy. I’ve seen it work one time; the biggest buck any of my clients ever killed came to a decoy. He fed in a large meadow each night, leaving well before dawn each day. My brother was guiding, and just couldn’t get the hunter and the buck within the same zip code. Then one day he had a flash of brilliance and set our 3-D buck target in the meadow near the client’s blind. That old savvy buck saw the decoy from clear across the meadow and came to investigate. He ended up gross scoring 196 and some change. I’m not saying a decoy will work every time, or even often. But it worked on the biggest bow-killed buck I’ve seen on the ground.

Still-HuntingStill-hunting deserves an honorable mention in this article, especially if you’re simply hunting any buck. Slipping your way very slowly through good deer habitat can provide a fun way to spend your midday, teach you a lot about your hunting area and even offer a shot opportunity. Just be sure to keep the wind in your face and move slowly as cold molasses, picking cover apart with your binocular. “One step, two looks” is a good mantra. Spot a buck, and your adventure morphs into a spot-and-stalk event.