The average force of a human bite is calculated at 162 pounds per square inch (PSI), but this is nothing compared to some animals with the strongest bite force.

The animal bite force is a complicated topic, and regardless of whether you choose to quantify it in PSI (pounds per square inch), pounds of force, or newtons of force, you are likely to come across a wide range of values that disagree with one another.

In addition, it is difficult to conduct biting force tests, which are rarely a high priority for scientists studying animals.

If such is the case, how can we determine which species have the most powerful bites in the world?

We can obtain a reliable estimate of what an animal’s peak biting force could be thanks to the testing that certain scientists have conducted and the advanced computer modeling that has been done.

Several factors, including the size of the animal’s meal, its jaw muscles, its jawbone, and the amount of surface area covered by its teeth, all contribute to the force with which an animal may bite.

According to a study conducted by Brown University, the amount of force within a muscle depends on the degree to which it is stretched.

As a result, the amount of force contained within an animal’s bite is also dependent on the size of what it is biting.

Psi, or pounds per square inch, is the unit of measurement for bite force. To be more precise, it is referred to as pounds of force per square inch (lbf/in2) because it represents the pressure that results from one pound of force on an area of one square inch (6.5 square centimeters).

In other words, the amount of force the animal applies to its meal.

Does Bite Force Matter?

The animals with the strongest bite force are at an advantage in the wild. If you are a predator, having the ability to kill, incapacitate, or capture and hold prey by using huge levels of pressure when biting into it can be an advantage. Cracking up bones to access the marrow within them is also possible.

Herbivores are able to chew through tough foods such as bamboo, crunch through nuts and seeds, and help defend themselves against carnivores when they have stronger biting forces.

The strength of their jaws helps these creatures become effective hunters, which is why many of the animals with the strongest bite force are considered apex predators.

How Is Bite Force Calculated or Tested?

Utilizing a device such as a strain gauge or a bite meter is the most straightforward method for measuring the force of a bite.

The animal bites the device, which then measures the force. These scales are analogous to the electronic scales that individuals use to measure their weight.

You can’t just be pleasant to the animal and ask it to bite as hard as it can on some metal plate scale, nor is it easy to capture and handle many of the strongest creatures.

Nor can you ask the animal to bite as hard as it can. For example, doing this with sharks would be an extremely challenging endeavor.

When attempting to calculate the bite power of an animal, computer modeling and preliminary approximations can be of use.

Looking at what an animal is capable of doing is one of the things that can assist in determining how hard a bite will be.

It’s like how you power to scale your favorite superheroes by using their feats, but it’s much more accurate.

For instance, if you know that a certain animal can fracture the femur bone of an antelope, you can calculate the force required to achieve the same result.

This provides an accurate baseline minimum of the animal’s possible biting force, which one can use for comparison purposes.

Because of our comprehensive knowledge and extensive study of animal anatomy, we can employ computer modeling to assist in the calculation of biting force.

We can model and run simulations to determine a fairly accurate estimate of an animal’s bite force if we understand the correlation to skull size and shape and rough estimates of how much force jaw muscles are capable of exerting.

Furthermore, if we know how much force jaw muscles can exert.

What Factors Determines Bite Force?

There are several factors that go into determining animals with the strongest bite force.

Skull shape, bone density, plasticity, jaw muscle strength, nutrition, and tooth replacement are among the most important contributing factors.

The shape of the skull and jaw is essential when determining the amount of biting power.

The force applied is dispersed over a more controllable surface area when the jaw is smaller.

Sloped or inclined skulls provide superior leverage and better anchor points for the larger jaw muscles.

If you want to use a significant amount of force with any portion of your body, you must have robust enough bones to withstand the strain without breaking.

There are various creatures whose jaws can shatter or break bones, but when they do so, their own bones do not break.

There are a lot of different explanations for this, but the primary reason is that their jaw and skull bones are extremely dense, and their skulls have suitable angles for applying that force.

Both the skull and the jawbones have a significant capacity for plasticity. Scientists long believed that a T. rex could fracture its skull with a bite force that was likely as powerful as it had been.

Many animals, like the T. rex, have shock absorbers built into their skulls in the form of flexible joints.

These joints allow the skull and jaws to flex, preventing the force from rebounding on itself and causing injury.

The muscles in your jaw are responsible for your ability to open and close your mouth. While our jaw muscles did not evolve to be particularly robust, those of many other species did.

Having jaw and neck muscles that are both larger and stronger contributes to having a stronger bite power.

Along the path of evolution, every species has adapted and changed depending on available food sources.

Hunting is made safer and more effective by adaptations such as the ability to crush the skull of one’s victim like a jaguar does.

If they could only consume fruit or tender shoots, they would have a much more limited food selection than if they could chew through tough roots and shoots like gorillas.

These are some examples of animals that have naturally developed stronger jaws to accommodate the types of food that they eat.

The ability to replace teeth is essential for animals with the strongest bite force that gnaws through bone, although this is not always required.

There are species of sharks and crocodiles that, over the course of their lifetimes, lose hundreds or even thousands of teeth.

Suppose you want to be able to bite as forcefully as some of these animals do. In that case, you either need teeth that are extraordinarily durable or the ability to replace them in a short amount of time.

19 Animals with the Strongest Bite Force

1. Polar Bear (1,200 psi)

Polar bears are larger than their cousins, the grizzly bears, and reside in the Arctic region. Their diet consists mostly of large prey species.

These bears may weigh more than 1,200 pounds (544.31 kg), and their webbed paws allow them to excel as swimmers. They live in semi-aquatic environments.

Polar bears are among the animals with the strongest bite force, and they have a powerful bite that helps them to penetrate the thick skin, feathers, and fat of the prey they encounter in their natural habitat.

This allows them to hunt successfully. The majority of their diet consists of seals, whale carcasses, and whatever else they can get their teeth into.

2. Gorilla (1,300 psi)

The gorilla’s bite force is mostly determined by the thickness of its neck, even though gorillas are overly muscular.

Despite having extremely long and scary canine teeth, the largest ape species is a fairly quiet herbivore.

This is because they are critically endangered. Read this article to get an idea of the gorilla’s overall physical prowess.

Gorillas consume plants, although the majority of their food consists of tougher plant parts like roots, bamboo shoots, and other similar items.

They do not have to rely solely on young shoots and fruit because the force of their bite enables them to ground up and devour the many types of food.

3. Jaguar (1,500 psi)

Jaguars can deliver the most powerful bite of any of the great cats. They don’t bring their prey to the ground as other big cats do; instead, they strike by seizing their prey’s skull in their mouth and crushing it.

Their teeth and jaws are strong enough to break through the thick hide of caimans and the shells of turtles, and they can crush the heads of capybaras and other animals.

Jaguars thrive in the jungles of both North and South America. They normally grow to have a body length of five to six feet (1.52 m to 1.82 m), a tail length of three feet (0.91 m), and a body weight of approximately 250 pounds (113.39 kg).

4. Hippopotamus (1,800 psi)

Hippos are one of the animals with the strongest bite force that is still alive.

They use the enormous canines and incisors on their upper and lower jaws to defend their young from potential threats and to fight with one another.

Hippos are the most lethal mammal in Africa, accounting for more human deaths than any other species each year. Hippos kill more people than any other animal.

The aggressive behavior of hippos is not limited to people. Even though they drink from the same bodies of water, hippos despise crocodiles, and they are capable of breaking the backbone of a crocodile that is ten feet long (3.04 meters).

5. American Alligator (2,150 psi)

The bite force of an alligator is commensurate with its size as the largest living reptile in North America.

They have the ability to snap their jaws shut extremely quickly, which allows them to either crush or bite their prey in half.

The extremely powerful jaw muscles responsible for closing the mouth contribute to the incredible strength of their jaws.

You can use your hands to keep their mouths closed since the muscles that allow them to open their mouths are laughably underdeveloped compared to other muscles in their bodies.

Fish, wading birds, turtles, and smaller animals make up the majority of an alligator’s diet.

6. Great White Shark (4,000 psi)

The Great White Shark is a must-mention on the list of animals with the strongest bite force for no other reason than the fact that its bite force was estimated rather than measured.

In a study conducted in 2008, X-rays and computer modeling served as a means to assess the amount of biting force that a white shark would have.

The study showed that a white shark with a length of 21 feet (6.40 meters) could exert a bite force of approximately 4,000 pounds per square inch, making it one of the living animals with the strongest bite force.

You can find White sharks in many different parts of the world, including the Pacific Ocean, the northeastern United States, Australia, and South Africa.

They are the top apex predators, with only larger white sharks and killer whales being their natural enemies.

7. Saltwater Crocodile (3,700 psi)

As the largest members of the crocodile family, saltwater crocodiles make the list of animals with the strongest bite force and can weigh up to one thousand pounds.

They also hold the record for having the most powerful bite of any animal in the world.

Saltwater crocodiles are among the most dangerous animals on the planet; each year, they are responsible for the deaths of between 3,000 and 5,000 people.

This category requires a 17-foot croc with a 3,700 PSI bite measured by a top scientist.

By extrapolating these findings, the same researcher predicted that prehistoric crocodiles of 40 feet in length would have had a bite force of 23,000 pounds per square inch (PSI).

We should count ourselves fortunate that these monstrosities became extinct millions of years ago. We have enough problems with the more manageable version that is still there today.

The raw power these animals exhibit is so astounding that it is nerve-racking to contemplate how scientists must have compared powerful previous extinct animals to what these animals are capable of.

The biting force of a Tyrannosaurus rex is around 8,000 pounds per square inch (PSI), whereas the bite force of a megalodon is roughly 40,000 PSI using the same methods that determined the great white’s present strength.

Regardless of how powerful an individual animal can be, there are still lethal dangers that face the great majority of animals on this planet.

Strength is not the only quality that might be a contributing factor to risk.

8. Lion (650 psi)

Lions have a higher biting force than mastiff dogs, despite the ferocious reputation that they have earned and the iconic position that they have achieved.

As a result of the fact that they hunt in packs, pinning their prey to the ground and suffocating it, they have never required a biting force that is as powerful as that of tigers and jaguars.

9. Nile Crocodile (3,000 – 5,000 psi)

A well-known biologist researched the Nile crocodile as well as other species that are closely related to it.

Using sensitive instruments, he determined the average amount of force that each member of the Order Crocodilia exerts with their bite.

The fact that the Nile crocodile specimen measured was only about 8 feet in length is a limitation of the study.

Considering that the typical length of a Nile crocodile is 16 feet, it stands to reason that their actual bite strength should measure at or above 3,000 PSI. This value is higher than that of the American alligator regarding bite power.

The Nile crocodile, which can weigh up to a whopping 500 pounds and is native to the areas around the Nile River’s banks, is the crocodile species considered the most dangerous in the entire world.

They are solely accountable for more assaults on people than any other species of crocodile in the world. The primary reason for this is that they are so fiercely territorial and hostile.

10. Bull Shark (478 psi)

Bull sharks have the most powerful bite of any other shark species when considering the overall size.

They can grow to a maximum length of nine feet and an average weight of about 800 pounds, which is significantly less than white sharks.

The maximum pressure that a white shark of a similar size might generate is around 360 PSI.

11. Black Piranha (72 psi)

You’re probably looking at the meager biting force of a black piranha, which is only 72 PSI, and wondering why we included it here in the first place.

Black piranhas can reach a maximum length of around one meter and an average maximum weight of about eight pounds (3.62 kg).

Their biting force of 72 PSI is enormous compared to their body weight, and researchers took this measurement from a fish that only weighed about 2 and a half pounds (1.13 kg).

12. Tasmanian Devil (200 psi)

When considering animal size, Tasmanian devils have the most powerful biting force of any mammal and are among the animals with the strongest bite force.

They weigh only 19.07 kilograms (20 pounds), but when they bite, they can produce 553 newtons of force. Their bite’s Bite Force Quotient (BFQ) is greater than any other living mammal.

13. Orcas (19,000 psi)

A killer whale’s bite force has no measurement record, but estimates put it around 19,000 pounds per square inch (psi).

This is mostly because they are so enormous, as they may weigh up to six tons (6096.28 kg) and grow to a length of nineteen feet and fourteen inches (9.14 m).

Because the majority of the data is from simulations, theories, and experiments conducted on whales in captivity, this topic did not earn a place on the list.

14. Tiger (1,050 psi)

The average weight of a Bengal Tiger is between 250 and 500 pounds (113.39 kg and 226.79 kg).

Although India and China are where you may find these large cats in the greatest numbers, they are considered endangered because of their stunning fur and the usage of their bodies in traditional Chinese medicine.

Their relatives in Siberia are considerably larger and can weigh almost a thousand pounds (453.59 kg).

Tigers are solitary hunters for the most part, and their huge biting force enables them to quickly take down their chosen prey, which are large animals such as deer and wild boar.

As soon as they clamp their jaws around the neck of their prey, the animal is rendered helpless and eventually dies of asphyxiation. Only a few animals with the strongest bite force can easily perform this feat.

15. Spotted Hyena (1,100 psi)

Hyena packs are good hunters and voracious scavengers that have no problem feeding on the remains of prey that other predators killed.

They are also engaged in never-ending competition with lions because both species hunt the same species of prey, occupy the same areas, and frequently steal food from one another.

They can break through heavy animal bones to get to the marrow inside because of the arched shape of their skulls and the massive jaw muscles they possess.

One of the reasons that hyenas survive well, even when there is a shortage of prey, is that they can utilize bones as an additional food source.

16. Grizzly Bear (1,000 to 1,200 psi)

The grizzly Bear that lives in North America is a powerful animal in every way. A typical individual is approximately seven feet tall (2.13 meters) and weighs around 800 pounds (362.87 kg).

These omnivorous animals consume anything from fruits and nuts to fish and even animals as huge as moose. They don’t discriminate when it comes to what they eat.

According to urban legends, grizzly bears, one of the animals with the strongest bite force, can bite through bone, small trees, and even cast iron skillets with surprising ease.

17. Alligator Snapping Turtle (1,004 psi)

The alligator snapping turtle is not like other turtles in that it is not little, it is not cute, it is not slow, and it is not generally harmful.

Although they are shorter than the majority of the animals on our list of animals with the strongest bite force, averaging 26 inches in length, these little fellows are no laughing matter.

The bite force of an alligator snapping turtle is 1,004 pounds per square inch (PSI), which distinguishes it from the bite force of a typical snapping turtle.

Do you remember the enormous hippos that we discussed earlier? Even though this turtle is much smaller than the other mammal, its bite is still half as strong and considerably exceeds that of a human or, for that matter, your pet dog.

If you’re looking for a new shelled pet, it’s best to stick to the smaller species while you’re shopping around for one. This super-strong mouth could easily break off a finger or two.

18. Humboldt Squid (6,00psi)

A squid’s jaw isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when one imagines animals with the strongest bite force, so that’s understandable.

Squids are well-known for their peculiar structure, which consists of neither an internal nor an exterior skeleton.

Scientists estimate that this creature’s formidable beak possesses a biting force of over 6,000 pounds per square inch (PSI), although getting close to it is extremely risky and impossible.

This squid has eight tentacles, each with multiple suction cups to capture and immobilize its prey. As if it needed any extra assistance, this squid also has eight arms.

The powerful mouth muscles of these creatures then finish the job, leaving the other animals with no chance of survival.

19. Walrus (1,850psi)

How much damage could a giant floppy thing with an old man’s mustache actually do? A lot!

In spite of the fact that these goofy-looking critters appear to be soft and harmless, they consume a variety of different foods in addition to shellfish.

Walruses are one of animals with the strongest bite force and can kill seals and eat them very quickly. Their enormous tusks allow them to compete successfully against polar bears.

It is not simply the enormous size of a walrus’s tusks but also the strength of its mouth that makes it such a formidable opponent.

In a situation with a pressure of 1,850 PSI, seals do not have a chance of surviving.

If you ever think of a walrus as nothing more than a ball of fluff lounging around and collecting fish, keep in mind that it is perfectly capable of putting up a battle for its life if a polar bear comes knocking on its door.

Axes are ancient tools that come in very handy for the modern explorer. To the uninitiated, axes may all seem the same. In fact, there are several types and various constructions, some of which are better suited for off-roading, overlanding, and camping.

In this article, we’ll cover the best axes for camping and overlanding, how to choose one, and why you might need one. If you are simply looking for a quick recommendation, the Gerber Bushcraft Axe is a good choice for a durable, all-around backcountry axe.

Our Recommendations for Best Axes

Gerber is well-known for making quality tools for backcountry adventures. In recent years, as they’ve worked to appeal to a larger market, they’ve managed to bring down the price of their once-expensive knives, multi-tools, and other equipment.

The Gerber Bushcraft Axe hits a sweet spot between affordability and function and is a great all-around axe for camping and vehicle-based outdoor adventure. The axe is great for cutting rounds of wood and kindling and is sturdy enough for clearing thick tree branches. The hammer on the back of the axe comes in handy for hammering in tent pegs and other camp tasks. This is the heavy axe on our list, but offers the widest functionality. The axe comes with a sheath that covers the head. It comes with Gerber’s limited lifetime warranty.

Here’s my video review of the Gerber axe:

The Council Tool Boy’s Axe is a great size for camping and on-the-fly trail work. The 2.25-pound head is Dayton style and the handle is made of hickory. These aren’t as fancy as the high-end Nordic-made axes, but they are solid, unpretentious utility axes that get the job done.

Gränsfors Bruk is one of the premier Swiss axe makers, and it’s worth highlighting several of their models. These axes are a premium product and don’t come cheap. That said, they are the kind of tool you lovingly pass down to future generations.

Their Small Forest Axe has a narrow head that’s great for cutting through trunks and branches. You can certainly still use this for splitting wood, but it will be more difficult given the narrow axe head and lack of a metal collar on the top of the handle. It comes with a leather sheath. The back of the axe head can be used as a hammer.

Here’s a video about the company and its manufacturing process:

The German company, Helko Werk has been making axes since 1844 and is one of the oldest axe makers still operating in Europe. Their Journeyman Pack axe is designed to be lightweight, compact, and easy to carry while trekking through the wilderness. Comfortable to use one or two-handed, the Journeyman is a versatile tool for cutting kindling, removing limb branches, building shelters, and other light splitting or cutting work.

The Gränsfors Bruk Outdoor Axe is much shorter than the other axes on this list, making it easier to stow and carry. Its head is thin enough for felling trees and chopping limbs, but still has enough taper to be used for splitting and the handle has a protective steel collar near the head so that the axe can be used for light wood splitting tasks. Like the Helko Werk axe noted above, this is an axe that you can easily put into a backpack. It comes with a leather sheath. The back of the axe head can be used as a hammer.

Named for the US park ranger who developed this axe design, Pulaski-style axes, also known as cutter matlock, combine a felling axe head with an adze (narrow hoe-like tool) that can be used for digging in hard ground or chipping away at bark.

While they aren’t as good as the other axes at chopping and cutting wood, they are highly versatile. The adze can come in handy if you need to trench a latrine or break through ice. The Barebones Pulaski axe is a beast, with a high-carbon steel head and a steel core running through the handle. It’s on the heavy side at 5.55 pounds, but the weight gives you momentum for breaking though tough wood and ground.

How to Choose the Best Axe

An axe is a must for chopping firewood when camping. A hatchet is great for chopping small kindling, but larger rounds are much easier to split with a larger axe. They are also clutch for clearing trail obstructions when overlanding and off-roading. In heavily wooded areas, it’s not uncommon to come across tree limbs blocking in the trail, in which case an axe will help you to quickly clear the way and carry on.

Some axes, such as the Pulaski style axe discussed below, integrate additional functionality that can come in handy for breaking hard ground when you need to dig a hole and for other tasks. Combined with an off-road shovel, an axe can help solve many problems on the trail.

There are several factors to keep in mind when choosing an ax, including the axe’s construction, style, size, and cost.

Some of the most sought-after axes on the market are made in Scandinavian countries that boast a long history of axe craftsmanship — think Vikings and big axes. That said, a number of American companies make quality axes that are well worth considering.

Axe Construction

Most axe heads are made from various types of steel, with the most expensive being hand-forged versus cast. Forged steel is widely considered to result in a stronger product compared to casting, where molten metal is poured into a mold to harden. In the old days, this hammering was done manually, with a hammer, but companies that produce large quantities of axes nowadays typically use an automatic press that does the hammering. Some smaller, boutique axe manufacturers still bang out axe heads by hand.

For light use, the difference between forging and casting may never be an issue, while the difference in cost is significant. High-quality axe heads are typically made from a steel alloy that is high in carbon, which allows the head to be sharpened and hold an edge longer.

One thing you’ll see is the shape of an axes head as either Dayton style or Hudson style, particularly for axes made in America. The Dayton-style heads are more square, and good for general outdoor jobs. The Hudson-style heads fan out from the handle to form a wide cutting surface.

Axe handles are typically made of wood (hickory is a good choice) or a fiberglass or plastic composite. Sometimes the handle will incorporate a metal core to provide strength and balance the handle and the head.

Wooden handles axes will typically require more maintenance than those with composite handles. This is particularly true in desert regions where extremely dry air can cause wood to crack. However, they are also typically easier to repair than a composite handle, and the provenance of composite handles can be a bit difficult to discern sometimes (a.k.a., the head may be forged in the US or Europe, but the handle may be mass-produced in China).

Axe Length

A full-sized axe used by lumberjacks is around 36-inches long, but that’s unnecessarily large for off-roading and camping. Something smaller, around 24-inches long, will be more versatile and easier to transport. There are also axes, like the Gränsfors Outdoor Axe mentioned below, which fall somewhere between a hatchet and a full-size axe. This gives you a nice mix of compact size with a bit more swinging power than a hatchet.

Axe Style

Axes can be divided into three broad categories: splitting axes, felling axes and generalist axes used for a variety of tasks.

How to choose?

The style of axes that is best for you depends to a large extent on how you anticipate using it most. If you’ll mostly be chopping wood in camp, you’ll probably lean more towards a splitting axe. If you’ll be clearing a lot of trees off of trails, a felling axe will come in handy. If you anticipate needing to break hard ground as well as deal with wood, the Pulaski axe will provide you with that versatility.

While they may are designed towards a specific use, most axes can be used for splitting and felling. So don’t get too hung up on what style you buy — with axes such as splitting mauls that have a very specific purpose being the exception. Generally speaking, for camping and overlanding it’s a good idea to choose a relatively compact and lightweight axe that can withstand the elements.

As a word of caution, as with many products, there are many cheap knockoffs on the market nowadays. The old saying, you get what you pay for, doesn’t even hold up with some of these products. Sometimes you get far less than you pay for. The axes we highlight below are high-quality products from reputable manufacturers.

All Recommended Axes

Upon encountering a troublesome black bear who continuously tore up my deer feeders, I decided I was going to have to come up with a better solution to the cheap plastic Moultrie ones I had installed. I began searching the hunting forums for answers but everything I read kept repeating the same old story that there is no bear-proof deer feeder. Most people suggested hanging a barrel spreader between two sturdy trees. There were plenty of examples of crafty bears getting to these as well. There are of course some massive deer feeders for sale for thousands of dollars that would work if I had the money to blow or a way to haul something that large onto the property. My property is very rugged, and everything has to be carried in by hand. After a couple of hours searching I did find a couple of designs that were small enough to bring in, but they still were close to $800.00.

There had to be a better solution. I headed into my shop and drew up some plans for a steel fortress to house a 30-gallon barrel spreader. I headed up to my local steel supplier for the raw materials, tossed a new tank on the welder and got to work.

The Bear-Proof Deer Feeder Build

The first task was to construct a steel frame to house the barrel.

Once the frame was welded up, it was time to give the beast some armor plating. I used 1/8 inch steel plate that is plenty sturdy and didn’t kill me on the weight. Before welding them to the frame, I drilled hole sets for the support legs I had yet to complete.

To this point, it’s still just a conventional albeit heavy feeder design. The 45-degree support legs were the first real modification. These were designed to provide adequate stability to survive a hungry bear. These legs are juxtapositioned to the frame legs for added support. Because of the length of the legs, I had to make them adjustable due to the sloping, uneven terrain and they had to be removable for transport. Each leg also has a steel foot with a hole drilled to accommodate an 18-inch rebar ground stake.

Next on the list was to build out the critter cage and spray a coat of primer on the beast. The inside of the cage has sheet metal angles to ensure the feed falls outside the enclosure.

Time to give the beast a facelift and add a cage door for easy access to the spreader controls.

Only a few additions left to create. One of the things I noticed about my troublesome bear is that he liked to rear up on his hind legs and hug and push the feeders from the top where the container held the corn. I took a page from Mad Max and added rebar spikes attached to the upper plate panels. The spikes are sharp enough to be uncomfortable but not so sharp as to injure the bear.

For the final touches, I added a solar battery charger and put plastic end caps on all the open-ended square tube to protect the steel from moisture. Nothing left to do but load up the truck, head to Oklahoma and plant “The Beast.”

After it was all said and done the Bear-Proof Deer Feeder could most likely withstand a tornado, and it only cost about $250.00 and a few weeks of fun in the shop. That’s a bargain in my book.

Update Video: After three days and many hours the bear gives up and the beast wins. Had to do a slight modification as the bear was able to spin the barrel which did cause a loss of a small amount of feed. The real issue is he tears the wire out of the solar charger which I have to fix each time.

All photographs and works are copywritten.

Any use or reproduction requires written consent.

If anyone has ever hit a deer with their car that seemed to jump straight in front of their vehicle, you might be wondering exactly how dumb deer are.

There are several reasons why deer come across as dumb compared to humans or other intelligent animals like dogs and cats. Keep reading to learn about why deer are so dumb.

Why Are Deer So Dumb?

1. Deer Don’t Understand Traffic

While deer might come across as dumb when they stand in the middle of traffic, this isn’t necessarily lack of intelligence. Deer just don’t understand the context of roads or vehicles.

For thousands of years, deer have evolved to evade predators like wolves, coyotes, hunters, and wild dogs.

Some smarter deer have been observed waiting for breaks in traffic, but many don’t get how it works on a fundamental level.

Deer also have a limited ability to tell how fast a car is going or how close it is to them in the road. This can cause them to be struck by cars when they misjudge how close cars are to them.

2. Deer Get Distracted During Rut

A situation that can make deer act reckless and dumb is when deer go into rut. This is a deer’s mating season where male deers compete with each other for sexual attention from females.

When bucks get excited about sparring and mating during rut, it overrides their survival instincts. This can lead bucks into risky situations they normally wouldn’t engage with outside of rut.

For example, deer that normally bed down during the day will be active during rut. This can lead them to run into trouble that they normally wouldn’t run into if they were hiding normally.

Along with becoming more careless, rut also makes deer more aggressive. While most normal deer would never be dumb enough to attack a human hunter, a buck in rut becomes aggressive.

3. Deer Evolve Slowly

It might seem like deer have been exposed to cars and other human obstacles like fences for a long time.

However, in the history of a deer’s evolution over several thousand years, traffic and human hunters are recent developments.

Many animals can evolve faster than the millions of years humans initially guessed that they could.

Deer have made large leaps to adapt to human encroachment, but they still make mistakes when it comes to dealing with stimuli they haven’t evolved to evade.

4. Deer Are Freeze Or Flight

When it comes to deer survival instinct, deer fall back quickly on two major modes of operation: freezing in place or escaping as quickly as possible.

For problems that aren’t solved by camouflage or flight, deer are woefully underprepared. This makes them seem dumb to people who are able to easily assess dangers that deer can’t.

Freezing in place might save a deer that is trying to hide from a hunter or another predator, but will kill a deer that freezes in response to a car’s headlights.

5. Limited Problem Solving Skills

Deer have been shown to have some problem solving abilities, but they are still limited in how they can react to situations with reason.

On an objective level, deer have been shown to have fewer problem solving abilities than domesticated intelligent animals like dogs and cats.

This limited problem solving skill in deer is a direct result of their environment. Since deer don’t have to manage much except find food and escape predators, they are designed for that.

Deer do have some capacity to solve problems. Deer often won’t return to an area where they have encountered hunters or humans before.

The ability of deer to learn long-term lessons from these encounters is limited compared to other animals.

6. Bright Lights Stun Deer

Deer might appear dumb when they stand directly in the headlights of an oncoming car without moving, but this doesn’t actually reflect on their intelligence.

What actually happens when deer stare into car headlights and become frozen is that they are hypnotized by the lights and become disoriented.

The few seconds it takes deer to realize that the bright lights are an incoming car are long enough for many deer to be struck. This isn’t lack of intelligence, but sensory confusion.

A big problem that deer have with being spotlighted in bright light is that they have evolved strong night vision to fend off predators in the dark.

This heightened vision makes them extra vulnerable to being blinded by bright lights at ight.

7. Deer Have Specialized Intelligence

Deer aren’t as dumb as many people believe they are based on videos of them breaking through bay windows or jumping straight into oncoming traffic.

Rather than putting cognitive energy into learning how to solve problems, deer use their intelligence to pursue their two most important goals: food and safety.

8. Deer Are Sensory Animals

Deer don’t have a lot of intelligence dedicated to higher or abstract thinking, but that doesn’t mean they’re dumb. Instead, deer are geared towards processing sensory input.

Deer have much stronger senses of smell, hearing, and sight than people do. Their sense of smell is equivalent to a dog’s.

Deer can hear higher frequency sounds than humans and can see as well at 100 feet as humans can see at 20 feet.

These sensory capabilities leave them in a better position to protect themselves in the wild than higher problem solving skills would.

Since many of the problems deer face on a day-to-day basis are simple, simple thinking and sharp senses are the solution to many of the trials they face in survival.

To learn more, you can also read our posts on why there are so many spiders in Australia, why photographers can’t touch animals, and why alligators roll.

9. Deer Are Built To Adapt

Even though deer are considered dumb by many people, the ability of deer to adapt to their environments should not be underestimated.

Deer have adapted to many different settings. These include deserts with little access to food and water as well as urban environments where they have to compete with humans.

Deer may have some habits that make them seem dumb to human observers, but there’s no denying that they’ve evolved over thousands of years to live and thrive in varied environments.

By Elizabeth Dandy. Updated: November 2024.

Provided by TruthAboutAnimals (Photo: iStock by Getty Images).

Grizzly bear paws are large, long and powerful. And you may be wondering how big are grizzly bear claws? You may have thought of those massive paws when you saw the extreme strength that was used to kill a moose.

Also known as the grizzly bear paw or just the grizzly bear claws, there isn’t a lot of information on how big they actually are. Being strong by nature, one would assume they are pretty damn big.

Grizzly Bear claws are part of this species’s equipment for survival and hunting. They are incredibly large and powerful, which is what makes them such a feared predator.

Having a set of grizzly bear claws like this would be a bit of a bummer for people who have things that need to stay intact, but it sure would make mincemeat out of something fragile!

Let’s start to find out how big are grizzly bear paws, what the claws look like, their sizes and sharpness.

Table of Contents.

Do Grizzly Bears Have Paws?

The answer is yes, but not in the way you might think.

What Are Paws?

Paws are thought to have evolved from fins, which are found on fish and amphibians. All four-legged animals have some kind of paw, though they may look different depending on the species.

For example, dogs have paws with five digits while bears have four-toed paws. The front paw on a bear has two large claws that are used for digging and catching prey, while their back paws have three smaller claws that help them climb trees and rocks.

The Anatomy of The Grizzly Bear Paw.

A grizzly bear’s paw anatomy includes:

Ankle bone or tarsus: This is made up of two bones (the tibia and fibula) that connect your ankle to your foot bones (metatarsals). It allows for flexion and extension of your leg so you can walk or run quickly.

For example, when you bend your knee or push off with your toes as you run, it’s due to the action of these two bones working together as one unit.

Metacarpal bones: These are located at the front part of each paw and correspond to our finger bones;

Do Grizzly Bears Have Claws?

Grizzly bears have large, strong claws that they use to catch and kill prey. They also use their claws to dig into the snow to find food.

Grizzly bears are considered omnivores, which means that they eat both plants and animals. Grizzly bear claws are used for digging through snow in search of prey like elk or bison. They also use their claws to attack other animals for food.

The grizzly bear’s large paws allow it to easily walk on snow, ice, and rocky terrain. The grizzly’s front paws are larger than its rear paws by about 25%.

Their front paws measure from 7 inches long to 8 inches long (17 cm). The rear paws measure from 5 inches long to 6 inches long (12 cm).

Facts About The Grizzly Bear Paw

Grizzly Bear Feet Facts: The grizzly bear has a double pad between each toe on both front and hind feet.

This pad helps protect against injury while walking through snow or over rocky terrain where sharp objects could easily puncture their pads without such protection.

The grizzly bear’s claws are long and curved like those of a dog or cat, but much larger than those of any other mammal in North America except for the tiger seal (which has no claws).

The paws of a grizzly bear are extremely large, powerful and can have five digits. The front two digits are thumb-like while the rest are more like fingers.

The paw pads are thick, tough and covered in small scales that protect them from abrasion and injury. A grizzly’s claws are sharp and curved and they can be up to three inches long.

The claws help with climbing trees, digging food out of the ground and defending themselves against predators.

The Paw Size of The Grizzly Bear.

The grizzly bear paw size is about 10 inches long and 6 inches wide. The claws are 2 inches in length. The paws are used for digging and grooming as well as walking, climbing and swimming.

The long claws are used to tear apart meat, while the short ones are used for climbing trees and digging food out of the ground.

The grizzly bear is the largest member of the bear family. They can reach up to 7 feet tall when standing on their hind legs, but they usually stand at just 5 feet tall when walking around on all fours!

They weigh between 400 and 700 pounds, although some have weighed as much as 1,500 pounds!

A grizzly bear’s diet consists mainly of plants such as berries, roots and grasses. They also eat fish, deer, elk and carrion (dead animals).

The grizzly bear is an omnivore which means it eats both plants and meat.

Measuring The Strength of Grizzly Bear Swipe.

A grizzly bear swipe is a lot stronger than it looks. The paw swipe is one of the strongest animal movements ever tested, according to a new study published in the Journal of Experimental Biology.

The researchers found that when a bear swipes down from an upright position, its paw exerts about 2,300 pounds per square inch (psi) of force on the ground, or about 1,000 psi more than the bite of an alligator (which tops out at about 1,000 psi).

That’s about 10 times more force than what scientists previously thought bears could generate using their paws. That’s not just impressive for an animal, it’s impressive for any species.

“It was amazing to see how much energy these animals can produce with their paws,” said lead researcher Michael Sawaya, who studies biomechanics at Stanford University in California. “We’ve seen this kind of power before in other mammals like primates but never in carnivores like bears.”

How to Identify Grizzly Bear Paw Prints

When you’re out in the wilderness and come across fresh bear tracks, it can be difficult to distinguish between the tracks of a black bear and grizzly bear.

While black bears are often found in the same regions as grizzlies, the latter tends to travel more widely and is more aggressive. The best way to tell them apart is by looking at their paw prints.

Grizzlies have larger, broader feet with claws that are longer than those of black bears. The front pad on a grizzly’s foot is wider than the rear pad, while in black bears it’s about equal in size. Their claws also tend to be longer and more curved than those of black bears.

Another difference between grizzlies and black bears is how they walk.

Grizzlies tend to walk flat-footed with little or no arch or heel strike, while black bears tend to walk with an arched foot with an exaggerated heel strike due to their smaller size and shorter claws compared to grizzlies.

Grizzly Bear Claw Facts

Grizzly bear claws can reach up to 8 inches in length. They are curved and sharp, and are used for tearing into prey.

The claws also play an important role in the grizzly bear’s defense. They can be used to swipe at an attacker, or to grab onto objects and pull them closer.

Claws are also helpful when the grizzly is digging for food or shelter. They can dig through tough soil quickly and easily.

Grizzly bears use their claws for a variety of activities, including hunting, climbing, and swimming.

How Sharp Are Grizzly Bears Claws?

Grizzly bears are omnivores, which means that their diet can consist of both meat and plants. However, grizzlies are mostly carnivorous, meaning that they eat mostly meat. Their diet consists of fish, ungulates (deer), small mammals such as rodents, insects, and fruits and vegetables.

Their claws help them capture their prey. Grizzly bear claws can grow to be up to 4 inches long. They are curved and sharp, which helps the grizzlies catch their prey. The claws also help the bears climb trees.

Grizzly Bear Paw vs. Polar Bear Paw Size

Grizzly bears and polar bears are two of the largest land-based predators on Earth, but they’re still different in many ways. Their paws are no exception: grizzly bears have much larger paws than their polar cousins.

The average grizzly bear paw is about 15 inches long and 10 inches wide, while the average polar bear paw is only about 13 inches long and 6 inches wide.

That’s a difference of almost an inch in length and more than 2 inches in width! However, these measurements vary greatly depending on species and subspecies—some grizzlies have even been reported to grow as large as 20 inches across!

But why do grizzlies have such big paws? It’s all about weight distribution.

Grizzlies can weigh up to 1,500 pounds (680 kilograms), which makes it extremely difficult for them to walk on snow without sinking into it unless they’re using their claws for traction (which isn’t always possible).

By contrast, polar bears weigh half as much as grizzlies do and live primarily on ice instead of snow, so they don’t need such large feet.

Conclusion:

If you are planning on ever seeing a Grizzly Bear then I would expect that you would have some basic knowledge about them.

One of the first things that many people want to know is how big Grizzly Bear claws and paws really are. Once you have that figured out then you will be able to better plan for living in the same area as these magnificent creatures.

See what others are doing.

“Nothing shoots flatter, hits harder,” said Alaskan Master Guide Coke Wallace nonchalantly, though with a slight grin. Without missing a beat, I added, “Or is more accurate.” Many riflemen can just as easily recite Weatherby’s immensely successful marketing motto; however, atop a ridgeline in the 49th state’s rugged interior, and nearly a quarter mile from a downed mountain monarch, that message rang especially true. And, on the cusp of Weatherby’s 70th anniversary, it couldn’t have been conveyed any better than with Roy Weatherby’s original magnum big-game chambering—the .270 Wby. Mag.

The BeginningsSimilar to that of bullet pioneer John A. Nosler, Roy Weatherby’s quest for “something better” had its origins in a failure in the hunting fields; in this case, it was a wounded—and ultimately lost—Utah mule deer buck in 1942. Reflecting on the unpleasant escapade, Weatherby pondered the virtues of high-velocity impacts; specifically, he theorized that total disintegration of the projectile maximized “shock,” even on less-than-ideal hits, and thus the result would be rapid expiration of the animal. Additionally, flatter trajectories and reduced time of flight reduced errors due to range misestimation and wind-driven bullet deflection, respectively. Weatherby’s thoughts on the matter first appeared in a rebuttal to a Sports Afield article entitled “Mania for Speed,” which was penned by Maj. Charles Askins. The result? A large portion of the magazine’s readers agreed with Weatherby’s beliefs, and some of them became his very first customers.

So began the Weatherby story.

According to Weatherby: The Man. The Gun. The Legend. by Grits and Tom Gresham, “By the time he started in business [1945], Roy had developed the .220 Rocket (based on the .220 Swift cartridge, with a changed taper and shoulder), the .257, .270, and .300 Weatherby Magnums.” Given the popularity of the .270 Win. at the time (and even now), it’s little wonder that the first of his proprietary magnum cartridges—developed in 1943—was a .270, too; however, his creation was a radical departure from normalcy. Weatherby first shortened the belted, .300 H&H Mag. case and greatly reduced its taper, thereby amassing additional space for propellant. Nosler Reloading Guide No. 7 reveals that the .270 Weatherby Magnum’s case capacity is approximately 82.0 grs. of water, which is about 17.4 grs. more than that of the Winchester cartridge. Next, he gave it an unusual, double-radius Venturi shoulder design, which, according to weatherby.com, “Increases the velocity of escaping gases without increasing the pressure within the cartridge, [and thus] results in higher velocity within standard pressure ranges.” Interestingly, whereas the .270 Winchester’s SAAMI-assigned maximum average pressure (MAP) is 65,000 p.s.i., once “adopted” in 1994, the .270 Weatherby Magnum’s MAP was set at 62,500 p.s.i.

Delving deeper, the .270 Win. has a maximum case length of 2.540″, so the .270 Wby. Mag. at 2.549″ is ever so slightly longer. Moreover, while the .270 Win.’s cartridge overall length (COL) is 3.340″, its Weatherby counterpart is a shorter 3.295″. The COL alone was instrumental in Weatherby’s initial success, as it was a relatively simple procedure to re-chamber an existing .270 Win.-chambered rifle for his brainchild; in fact, the process only required re-reaming the chamber and altering the bolt face diameter (0.473″ to 0.532″) and the magazine. Weatherby offered similar conversions from .300 H&H Mag. to his potent .300 Wby. Mag.

The aforementioned case characteristics all contributed to Weatherby achieving his vision, as when loaded with identical bullets, the .270 Wby. Mag.’s velocities bettered those of the Winchester by 150 f.p.s. to 400 f.p.s., depending on the projectile’s weight. The cartridge design alone was insufficient to achieve said velocities, however; Weatherby also had to extend the rifling-free “throat,” or “free bore,” considerably, thereby enabling greater velocity potential without excessive pressure. Currently, weatherby.com lists the freebore length of .270 Wby. Mag.-chambered Mark V rifles as measuring 0.378″. Additionally, typical barrel lengths were 26″ or longer, which permitted better consumption (or a more complete burn) of the propellant.

As previously mentioned, Weatherby desired “total disintegration” of the bullet. As cited in Gresham, in a letter to gun writer Sam Fadala, Weatherby wrote, “I am one who wants that bullet to completely disintegrate inside an animal’s body. It seems to do more damage, by far, than just normal expansion.” Given the standard “cup-and-core” construction of the majority of the projectiles available at that time (and even today), significant weight loss, if not outright disintegration, was relatively easily achieved at velocities approaching 3000 f.p.s.; however, Weatherby’s hotrod .270 eclipsed that number by a significant margin. For example, factory numbers reveal that most of Weatherby’s 130-gr., .270 Wby. Mag. loads typically attain in excess of 3300 f.p.s. In comparison, bullets of identical weight fired from a .270 Win. achieve around 3100 f.p.s.

Weatherby’s views on high-velocity impacts and the .270 Wby. Mag. weren’t based on conjecture either, but rather on experience. For example, as detailed in Gresham, on June 14, 1948, Weatherby wrote, “Doctor shot his waterbuck, a fine one, too, with my .270 Magnum, about 150 yards. The waterbuck went down with a shoulder shot. When we skinned this fellow out, one could hardly imagine an animal being able to move after being shot the way he was with that .270 Magnum—he was torn up inside terribly.” Furthermore, on June 21, 1948, Weatherby reflected, “One thing is sure and that is—the bullet must be traveling at a certain velocity when it hits the animal in order to kill it by shock, no matter where it hits. I must find out at what distance or the velocity the bullet must hit the animal so that the shock instantly kills it. The .270 Magnum with the 150-grain Core-Lokt is not it—at least it has not proven to be so far. I am convinced at this point the 130-grain .270 bullet is superior at almost any point.” Ultimately, Weatherby concluded, “Of course, velocity means greater killing energy at greater distances—it also means more shock and greater destruction, but there is no substitute for the right spot … .”

Closing The DistanceFrom 1945 until 2002, when Winchester introduced the .270 Winchester Short Magnum (WSM), the .270 Wby. Mag. had reigned supreme in the realm of commercially available .270 chamberings—though it was considered proprietary until adopted by SAAMI in 1994. Following on the heels of its .30-cal. sibling, the .300 WSM, which was unveiled in 2001, the .270 WSM features a short, 2.100″-long non-belted case that, when loaded to a maximum COL of 2.860″, enables it to be chambered in lighter, short-action rifles. Despite its squat appearance, the case has minimal taper—from 0.555″ at the web to 0.538″ at the start of the shoulder—and a sharp, 35-degree shoulder that maximizes capacity. In Nosler Reloading Manual No. 7, the company lists its capacity as being about 73 grs. of water, which is approximately 9 grs. less than that of the .270 Wby. Mag. Because of its 65,000-p.s.i. MAP, though, the .270 WSM’s achievable velocities with most bullet weights are relatively close to those of Weatherby’s .270; the difference is usually within 125 f.p.s. or less. One must realize, though, that whereas the .270 Wby. Mag. is typically tested with a 26″ barrel, the .270 WSM is clocked from a 24″ tube, so direct comparisons are somewhat apples-to-oranges affairs. Is this enough to account for the velocity difference? Perhaps.

Really “muddying the waters,” if you will, concerning .270 supremacy, was Hornady’s introduction of Superformance ammunition. Through the formulization of highly progressive propellants, the company was able to achieve velocity increases upward of 200 f.p.s. from standard chamberings. The .270 Win. was among them; in fact, the 130-gr. loads attain 3200 f.p.s., which is 150-f.p.s. faster than SAAMI spec for “standard” loads and within 75 f.p.s. of .270 WSM loads using the same bullet weight. Interestingly, this is recorded from 24″ barrels in both chamberings, so it is a just comparison. Moreover, given that the .270 Win. has 9 grs. less case capacity, that is quite a remarkable feat. Since then, Remington has introduced its own “higher-than-normal-velocity” ammunition called “HyperSonic,” so the trend is building.

Taking the aforementioned into account, where does the .270 Wby. Mag. stand? There’s no doubt that, among the commercially available .270 chamberings, the Weatherby Magnum is still the fastest. That being said, the margin by which it’s ahead isn’t nearly as great as in the past; many .270 Win. and .270 WSM offerings are less than 100-f.p.s. slower than comparable .270 Wby. Mag. offerings. But, the growth of “long-range” hunting and shooting and leadless bullets gives the edge to the .270 Wby. Mag. Specialty “long-range” and long-for-weight lead-free projectiles occupy considerably more usable propellant space than their standard counterparts, which plays to the .270 Wby. Mag.’s voluminous case. Take the Nosler 150-gr. AccuBond Long Range (ABLR) for example, which measures an impressive 1.425″. Despite the bullet’s incredible length, the .270 Wby. Mag.’s case still has ample space for the propellant needed to achieve high velocities—an important factor in reducing drop and wind deflection (less time to target means less exposure to environmental conditions). Higher retained velocity also yields increased on-target energy. Remember, outside of long-range-specific bullets, most big-game bullets’ lower velocity limit for reliable expansion is 1800 f.p.s., so any increase is appreciated.

The .270 Weatherby Magnum’s ForteIn May 2013, I learned that I would be fortunate enough to hunt Dall sheep with Midnight Sun Safaris the following August. Although selecting the appropriate pack, boots and clothing would prove to be challenging, choosing the caliber, rifle and optic did not. Given the arduous climbing that would take place daily, cutting kit (and personal) weight was essential, as every ounce counts. Moreover, what better way to celebrate the upcoming 70th anniversary of Weatherby, Inc., than to use the Mark V Ultra Lightweight in Roy Weatherby’s first magnum chambering? The .270 Wby. Mag. is, after all, perhaps the best-suited option for sheep in the entire line. In discussions with Justin Moore, internet marketing manager for Weatherby, Inc., however, he suggested that I use the company’s valued-priced (soft-point), spitzer load (see sidebar p. 53). A flat-base “cup-and-core” bullet for sheep? To say I was surprised would be an understatement. “Trust me,” said Moore. Lastly, a Trijicon 3-9X 40 mm AccuPoint in Leupold rings and bases topped the rig.

After two days in transit, including a magnificent train ride from Anchorage to Denali National Park, our group was picked up at the train station by Coke Wallace, and the subsequent morning we were ferried via a single-prop airplane to “Moody International,” which is what Wallace named base camp. After confirming the scopes’ zeroes, we were prepared (or so we thought) for what lay ahead; boy, were we wrong. The next day proved to be the most difficult that I had ever encountered. During the 10-plus-hour arduous ascent toward a large band of rams, more than once I appreciated my choice of rifle. Despite our full effort, the rams evaded us, which lead to a long, tiresome and wet walk back to the horses; however, with it approaching 1:30 a.m. the next day, physically and mentally exhausted, drenched to the bone, and still about a half-mile from the horses, we decided to stop and start a fire to warm up and rest. It was the coldest night I’ve ever experienced. Welcome to sheep hunting!

After reaching the horses midmorning on day two (in a pouring rain no less), we headed for base camp, where we regrouped for the subsequent morning’s hunt. On day three, shortly after arriving in an unexplored drainage, Wallace and fellow guide Justin Cox spotted five rams near the top of a distant ridgeline. A Swarovski spotting scope confirmed that one ram met the stringent criteria for being legal to shoot. With cartridges in the magazine, but not chambered, Wallace, Cox, Moore and I began an ascent that, because of the rams’ vantage point, forced us to alternate approaches on several occasions. After more than an hour of climbing, we were finally within striking distance. Careful not to skyline ourselves, Cox and I crawled in advance of the others to reach a predetermined location for the shot. Just prior to exposing myself to their excellent eyesight, I chambered a round and deployed the Harris bipod. As I did so, Cox confirmed that the rams were 375 yds. away; however, because a younger (non-legal) ram stood nearby the elder one, I would have to wait for a shot. Finally, the immature animal moved a safe distance to the right, enabling me to take a shot. Having memorized the “drops” and drift at various distances, and with a 10-m.p.h. full-value crosswind, I applied the correct dope and pressed the trigger. At the shot, the ram bounded forward and stood motionless. Thinking that I had missed, I cycled the bolt and sent another soft point downrange, at which point the ram dropped and began an uncontrollable fall into what would prove to be a difficult-to-reach crevasse.

After reaching the animal more than an hour later, it was revealed that the first shot entered about 6″ behind the right shoulder and exited about 2″ behind the other, while the second shot entered about 2″ behind the right shoulder and exited through the left shoulder; in other words, both were lethal hits. Inside, there was considerable damage to both the lungs and the heart. I couldn’t have asked for better performance from a bullet at any price point. In addition to getting a beautiful trophy, the ram provided the finest meat that I’ve ever eaten, all thanks to Roy Weatherby’s .270—his original magnum and still among the best for long-range hunting.

Weatherby 130-gr. Spitzer Ammunition High-quality ammunition generally carries an equally premium price tag, and that reality is among the most difficult things for non-handloaders and the less-well-heeled to overcome in shooting Weatherby cartridges. Fortunately, a few years ago the company began offering an economical line of soft-point ammunition. Much of the cost of Weatherby ammunition comes from Norma purchasing premium, American-made bullets, having them shipped to Sweden, loading them and then transporting the ammunition back to America. While the Norma plant waits for said bullets to arrive, there can be down times in production. But, because the company also manufactures bullets, the decision was made to load its standard, cup-and-core spitzer bullets into Weatherby cartridges. And, because no purchasing or shipping costs (to the facility) are incurred, the savings can be passed on to the consumer. In fact, the loads (available in .240 Wby. Mag., .257 Wby. Mag., 270 Wby. Mag. and .300 Wby. Mag.) retail for $43 per 20 rounds, though I’ve seen them on midwayusa.com for $38. That is about half the price of the company’s premium offerings. As for the .270, the bullet, which has a .359 ballistic coefficient, is rated as reaching 3280 f.p.s. Given its non-bonded construction and the fact that there’s no built-in “mechanical lock,” considerable expansion is assured. For game up to and including caribou, these value-priced bullets are a good option. They certainly worked well for my once-in-a-lifetime shot on a Dall sheep.—Aaron Carter

.270 Wby. Mag.-Chambered RiflesAlthough there have been various rifles chambered for .270 Wby. Mag. through the years, including the Winchester Model 70 and Ruger No. 1, today, most are found within the American-made Weatherby Mark V line. Though the cartridge has yet to be released in the economical, Japanese-manufactured Vanguard Series II rifles, I am hopeful that will soon change. Mark V-series rifles chambered in .270 Wby. Mag. are: Ultra Lightweight and RC, Accumark, Deluxe, Lasermark, Sporter, Fibermark Composite, Euromark, Accumark RC, and Terramark RC. Among the newest is the Ultra Lightweight RC, which made its debut in 2014 and has a hand-laminated, raised comb Monte Carlo-style stock, 26″ free-floated stainless barrel with target crown, CNC-machined 6061 T-6 aluminum bedding plate, and six- or nine-lug fluted body bolt, depending on the chambering selected.

After the hunt, I spent considerable time at the range to wring out the aforementioned rifle; in total, I expended more than 200 rounds in meeting the American Rifleman accuracy protocol and function-testing. Of the four loads tested—Weatherby 130-gr. TSX, 130-gr. Spitzer and 150-gr. Partition, and Norma USA 150-gr. Oryx—the most accurate proved to be the 150-gr. Partition, which averaged 1.07″ for five consecutive, five-shot groups. The other loads averaged 1.22″ (130-gr. TSX), 1.40″ (130-gr. Spitzer) and 1.57″ (150-gr. Oryx). Recorded by an Oehler Model 36 chronograph at 13 ft., the velocities were: 3103 f.p.s., 3419 f.p.s., 3339 f.p.s., and 3160 f.p.s., respectively. The Mark V Ultra Lightweight RC retails for $2,400. The least-costly Mark V is the Fibermark, which retails for $1,400. Outside of Weatherby, Inc., .270 Wby. Mag.-chambered rifles can also be had in the E.R. Shaw Mark VII. Assuredly other custom builders will offer the chambering as well; however, they may, or may not, include Weatherby’s lengthy freebore. That is worth inquiring about.—Aaron Carter

Imagine a buck so epic that it defends the crown as the Boone and Crockett world record typical whitetail buck for 30 years and counting. The typical whitetail world record is the holy grail of deer hunting records, the one many dream about, but very few even come close to touching.

This hunting season marks three decades since farmer Milo Hanson took down the world-record typical whitetail buck. Milo Hanson’s buck, harvested near Biggar, Saskatchewan on November 23, 1993. Its mark of 213 5/8 inches for a wild typical buck has yet to be surpassed in the whitetail deer hunting record book.

Milo Hanson’s world record is proving nearly impossible to beat. During its reign, it’s fended off multiple world-class challengers. Many dedicated hunters have scoured the wilderness to find a whitetail buck, either from Canada or anywhere else, with a rack frame large enough to qualify, but that doesn’t also have some abnormality that classify it as non-typical and thus disqualifying it from this record. Some failed upon panel scoring, and others were flat-out denied because of abnormal points that denoted a non-typical classification.

Here’s the story behind the famous Milo Hanson buck, and a few typical buck hunting record challengers that just barely missed the mark.

The Story of the Milo Hanson Hunt

In that corner of Canada, the Hanson buck of Saskatchewan was already a local celebrity a year before it met its maker during the 1993 rifle season. Local hunters first noticed it in 1992, and news of the massive whitetail spread quickly. Hunters from all corners of the region and beyond came to try to topple the beast. Neighbors reported sightings during afternoon gossip, and a school bus loaded with kids even caught a glimpse of him. At least one massive 5-point side shed was picked up that was believed to belong to him. This big buck had a target on his back.

And yet, somehow, he survived not only the archery season but also the muzzleloader seasons prior to the start of Saskatchewan’s rifle season. Milo Hanson and his buddies hunted for this particular deer with no success several times leading up to that fateful November day. At one point Hanson and a friend both passed on a gorgeous, 160-inch buck because they knew the big one was still out there somewhere and deer season wasn’t over yet. That ended up being a good decision, for Hanson at least.

The morning of the day that changed his life, Hanson was hunting his own property, doing a deer drive with some buddies. “On the night of November 22, we had fresh snow, and I called the guys to plan our hunt,” Hanson told Boone and Crockett. “The next morning, I met my neighbor, John Yaroshko, and we drove to meet Walter Meger and Rene Igini. When we pulled up, I knew something was happening because they were excited. They said they spotted a monster buck entering a willow run and it hadn’t come out.”

With a fresh snow to help them track, the deer hunters set up a small deer drive with one man pushing and three standers on either side. Hanson took the north side while his buddies covered the other, and one walked up the middle following a fresh track. The first time Hanson spotted the buck standing broadside about 150 yards from his position, a huge rush of buck fever took over. We can only imagine what it would be like to be that close to the biggest typical whitetail of all time!

He fumbled the first shot and missed the deer completely. The hunters regrouped near where they saw the buck go into cover and jumped him out again. Hanson’s second shot at the deer was a solid hit, dropping the buck down to his knees. The buck was still moving, though.

“Unfortunately, the buck got up and ran into a nearby aspen stand,” Hanson Hanson said to B&C. “I ran up the hill to where it disappeared and saw it below me, standing still. I aimed through my four-power scope and fired another shot with my .308 Winchester Model 88 lever-action. Down it went. I saw its head over a clump of willows. To ensure it stayed down, I fired another shot, and the hunt ended.”

Upon reaching the deer, the hunters discovered one of the .308 bullets had shattered and struck the back of the buck’s right main beam. While the shot cracked the antlers, fortunately, it did not break them.

Once news got out that Hanson had taken down the local legend, his farm became a hotspot for curious onlookers, and the phone started ringing off the hook. Hanson knew then he had something special on his hands. North American Whitetail magazine was the first to spread the news of Hanson’s harvest to hunters far and wide in the February 1994 issue.

What Was the Score of the Milo Hanson Buck?

The official Boone and Crockett net score of the current typical world record Milo Hanson buck was 213-5/8 inches. The 14-point buck had an inside spread that measures just over 27 inches. Its greatest spread was over 29 inches, and six of the 10 main points exceeded 11 inches.

What Did the Hanson Buck Weigh?

Hanson has stated many times that the most frequent question he gets from other hunters is about the buck’s weight. However, we will never know, because Hanson never weighed the deer, field-dressed or otherwise. He estimated in a 2010 interview with Outdoor Life that the live weight was probably around 200 pounds.

While that’s a heavy deer, it’s not exactly a large-bodied deer for Saskatchewan, where big whitetails pack on the excess body weight to get through the long winters. Hanson is a farmer in the Biggar area, which is known for agriculture, so there was no lack of food for the record deer. However, considering the fact the deer was not taken until November 23, it seems extremely likely he’d lost quite a bit of weight during the rut.

The most amazing fact about this buck, other than the 213 5/8-inch score, is the fact that it was aged at only three-and-a-half to four-and-a-half years old. There’s almost no question the world record whitetail had not even hit his prime yet when Hanson dropped him. It makes us wonder if it would have netted over 220 or even 230 inches with another year of growth—although no hunter would be crazy enough to pass up a buck like this!

It speaks to the quality of deer hunting in the area that a hear after harvesting his world record, Hanson shot a 171-inch buck, which no one knows or talks about because the “Hanson Buck” takes up all the headlines. After hearing that, there’s no doubt Biggar was the right place at the right time with the right genetics to produce a true monster.

How Big is the Milo Hanson Buck?

It’s hard to appreciate just how large the Hanson buck is unless you see it or one of the many replicas for yourself. At the time of the deer’s downing, the James Jordan buck from Wisconsin was the typical world record. The Jordan buck is no slouch, but the Hanson buck has it beat, thanks to a 29-inch greatest spread and a 27-2/8-inch inside spread. The G2s and G3s are also ridiculously long with a few of them reaching nearly 14 inches in length.

However, the Jordan buck has the Hanson buck beat on main beam length. Still, the Hanson buck’s 28-4/8-inch main beams are nothing to sneeze at. The right side of this great deer scores 95-4/8 inches while the left scores 98 inches. The gross score is 223-7/8 inches. There are only 7-1/8 inches of deductions. It helps that the buck only had 3-1/8 inches of abnormal points, all on the right side. The left has zero, which is an equally impressive tidbit that’s hardly mentioned.

What are the Hanson Buck’s Main Challengers?

As for the Hanson buck’s challengers, there have been many. Most infamous is the Rompola buck, allegedly taken in Michigan back in 1998. Hunters are still divided if the 218-5/8-inch deer was a hoax, or a hunter who simply did not like the limelight. We may never know the truth.

In 2006, it looked like Wisconsin would regain its crown as the holder of the typical world record with the Johnny King buck. That deer initially grossed over 220 inches and netted around 218 as a typical. That was until a Boone and Crockett scoring panel determined the buck’s G3 and G2 points shared a common base, causing massive deductions that resulted in a score around 180 inches net. The Johnny King buck still inspires passionate opinions among hunters, though.

In 2021, an Indiana musician named Dustin Hoff came close when he set a new second-largest typical whitetail deer of all-time record. The monster buck, which surpassed the Jordan Buck for the number two spot, is still the largest whitetail ever killed in the United States, according to the record books. The buck’s official B&C score is 211-4/8 points.

Then there was “The General,” a massive whitetail that roamed Nebraska back in 1958 and didn’t resurface until the 1990s. This buck had massive 32-inch main beams, 14-inch G2s, and 7-inch mass measurements. The antlers gross nearly 240 inches and net in the 220s. There’s just one problem: It’s a set of sheds, and no other antlers from the deer are known to exist. Because of this, the exact inside spread is unknown, and B&C do not recognize sheds in the record books.

Did the Milo Hanson Buck Get Sold?

The original Milo Hanson buck hasn’t been sold, as of this writing. Milo Hanson continues to maintain ownership of the mounted buck that he shot in 1993. He has sold the buck’s likeness for licensed use on merchandise and for replica mounts.

What is the Hanson Buck Worth?

While the once-in-a-lifetime buck made Hanson some money in licensing, he also said it made his life more hectic. Suddenly, he was in demand for sportsmen’s show appearances and spent a lot of time traveling with his mounted buck.

In the 2010 interview with Outdoor Life, Hanson pulled back the curtain behind what it’s like to be the hunter of a world-record buck. He estimated he made $60,000 a year off his record buck for almost a decade—or at least $600,000. While many world-class whitetails have found their way into private collections over the years, the Hanson buck remains in the hunter’s possession. That said, in that same interview, he noted he’s never received an offer close to what he has made on the deer.

Could the Hanson Buck Record be Broken?

As with anything hunting-related, anything is possible. Will this 2024 whitetail deer hunting season be the one where the Hanson Buck is finally dethroned, or will it remain the undefeated typical champion? Only time will tell.

READ MORE: The Worst Poaching Cases So Far in 2024

If you want a powerful, versatile lighting solution, the best flashlights still offer advantages over headlamps in many scenarios.

Flashlights point wherever you want, not just where your head is pointing. Also, due to fewer weight constraints, they tend to have more powerful, longer-lasting batteries and incredible power for modest-sized devices.

And to be honest, I’m a flashlight buff. Yes, I also use headlamps a lot when I’m outdoors. But more often than not, I grab a small flashlight from my truck center console and, if I need two hands for a project, clasp it in my teeth. I just love having the ability to point it wherever I want without having to crane my neck in a specific direction.

So if you love torches, read on for what we’ve determined to be the best flashlights available today. Because GearJunkie focuses on the outdoors, I rated these based on weight, size, battery life, color rendering, and lighting versatility. You can learn a lot more about how I tested and chose these flashlights below, but right up top, I’d like to state that this guide focuses on truly excellent flashlights that can perform day in and day out — whether you use a light professionally or simply need one for camping or to store at home for a power outage.

This isn’t a list of “light cannons,” as you’ll rarely need one million candlepower model. But, I did include one monster in case super-powered lighting is your jam.

Be sure to read the buyer’s guide and frequently asked questions for helpful tips. Also, have a look at our comparison chart to help steer your decision-making.

Editor’s Note: For our September 6th, 2024 update, we tested the Coast G32 and added it to our lineup. This model is a good budget choice with the option to upgrade to a rechargeable battery.

The Best Flashlights of 2024

• Best Overall Flashlight: FENIX PD36R PRO
• Best Budget Flashlight: ThruNite Archer 2A V3 Cool White
• Best Value Zooming Flashlight: Coast G32
• Best EDC Flashlight: NITECORE EDC27
• Most Versatile Flashlight: NITECORE P20iX 4000 Lumen USB-C Rechargeable Tactical Flashlight
• Best Flashlight With Long Range: Olight Warrior X Pro
• Best Flashlight With Zooming Lens: LEDLENSER MT10 Flashlight
• Best Flashlight for Mechanics: Blackfire Rechargeable Weatherproof Magnetic Flashlight With Lantern

Flashlights Comparison Chart

Why You Should Trust Us

In short, our primary flashlight testers are not just super into the outdoors; they’re also flashlight nerds. We really love the technology that goes into flashlights and headlamps. As the author of this article, I personally spend hours every month testing the newest flashlights to see if they can outperform our favorites listed here.

For the record, it takes a long time and impressive performance for a flashlight to earn a spot in this article. I constantly test new flashlights and updates from our favorite brands and update this article many times each year to keep it up to date with the best flashlights available.

This article has evolved significantly since it was first published back in 2018. At that time, it explained in depth why I love flashlights, and how they are different in use from headlamps. I still love flashlights for their directionality and ease of use in many situations. However, our team has done much more testing since this guide’s inception — and has new recommendations based on those results.

So, how do I test flashlights? First, I use them in controlled environments, measuring both runtime and brightness compared to claimed numbers. I put them on a scale to check the weights. I submerse them in water and drop them onto concrete.

These flashlights also get significant field testing. Our team takes them on all kinds of adventures — hiking, mountaineering, backpacking, hunting, boating, and camping are all part of the mix. Most of our team’s tests occur in the mountains of Colorado and fields and forests of the Midwest.

I take all this information and experience and compile the best advice for you. Over the years I’ve tested about 50 flashlights specifically for this buyer’s guide, selected from hundreds pitched to me by brands and examined at events like SHOT Show and the Outdoor Retailer convention. My goal is to give you the same advice I give my best friends.

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Flashlight

There are a few important specs to consider when choosing a flashlight: size and weight, max power output (usually noted in lumens), minimum power output, runtime (especially in lower modes), durability, and waterproofness.

Before we get into some of those details, I’d like to share some details about how I chose flashlights to test for this article. And there have been a lot of them.

First, I look for flashlights that work well for both home and outdoor use. This means I look for higher output than flashlights intended primarily for indoor use. I also only include flashlights that can function after at least a 1m drop, are water-resistant, and have a max runtime of at least 8 hours — enough to get you through a summer night at a minimum.

Next comes the question of batteries. Because of the efficiency of modern flashlights, there are now just two real choices: flashlights that run on AA or AAA batteries, or rechargeable flashlights that run off one of many higher-end battery systems and are almost always included in the light. Gone are the days of giant D-cell flashlights. But there is still a significant argument between those who believe disposable batteries or rechargeable batteries are better. I will get into it more below, but our team likes rechargeable batteries more in most cases.

Lumens: Max Output

For most campers, anything over 1,000 lumens is overkill. You’ll often find yourself using much lower settings, especially around camp. However, those big numbers can be nice, especially if you need to see faraway objects.

Battery Life

Another important consideration is if the flashlight uses its own rechargeable battery or if it runs on disposable batteries. Most people will get more value out of a flashlight that offers long runtimes and is easy to recharge.

Battery Type

As noted above, our team prefers rechargeable batteries in most situations. Most rechargeable batteries, such as the 21700 rechargeable li-ion battery included in the Fenix PD36R PRO, offer superior performance to both disposable and rechargeable AA or AAA batteries. But more importantly, flashlights that include this type of high-end rechargeable battery do not have hidden costs. And those who will use a battery more than casually will find that the cost of batteries will very quickly add up to more than the cost of the flashlight.

Next, rechargeable flashlights generally have a charging port or system built in. As you can see with our choices, our favorite flashlights today use USB-C charging. This is quickly becoming the industry standard as it is much faster than micro-USB charging. And unlike magnetic charging systems (or other proprietary chargers), you can easily find a USB-C cable anywhere and likely own several already.

One final note on AA and AAA batteries. Some folks argue that it is easier to replace batteries in the field than to charge them. Our testers have carried small battery chargers on many adventures, and they work great with flashlights for long trips. For trips over a week or two in length, though, disposable batteries still have an edge.

So keep battery and charging style in mind when you buy a flashlight. It will make a difference when you’re packing for a trip as to how many cables you’ll need to bring, or if you’ll need to buy batteries continually through the life of the product.

However, it’s convenient to quickly change batteries and refresh your flashlight in the field. Both are valid options but consider how you’ll use the light (and if you mind constantly buying new batteries).

Quality and Output

Modern LED flashlights vary in the quality of their color rendering, meaning you can see color better with some higher-end lights. The best flashlights on the market should always give you a colorized, realistic view.

Better-quality lights also tend to have more efficient LEDs. Some even have “regulators” that electronically manage the power output, resulting in consistent lighting. To expand on that, first understand that most flashlights, even very good ones, lose a little output as they run and deplete the battery. Better flashlights use a regulator to manage this drop-off. Poor flashlights tend to lose power consistently over time, gradually becoming less and less useful as the battery slowly drains.

FAQ

While there is plenty of available data, charts, and information on aging deer, we hope the info below, as well as our whitetail deer aging chart, can help you learn how to age a deer on the hoof before your next hunt. And if you successfully harvested a deer, we provide three additional aging techniques to determine deer ages.

Reasons to Learn the Age Class of Deer (Before You Shoot)

Aging whitetail deer isn’t necessary for general deer hunting goals. It won’t make you more successful at putting meat in the freezer during or after hunting season. But for those who choose to target older, more mature bucks, estimating age is a skill you must master.

Those who aren’t confident with their ability to age deer in the field on the fly should start by aging deer within trail camera photos. Then, if they see the deer while hunting, they’ll already know if they plan to shoot or not.

Of course, there are plenty of reasons to age a deer and ensure it’s an older member of the herd before shooting it:

1. If you want to shoot a mature deer, you must ensure it is one before sending a bullet or broadhead downrange.
2. If managing land for older bucks, identifying a deer as a young buck, and subsequently passing on it to allow it to reach a more mature age class, is necessary.
3. Passing on younger bucks means more and bigger bucks to see and shoot in the future.
4. Allowing bucks to age gives them time to express and spread their antler genetics.
5. Not shooting younger bucks — and taking the correct number of does — helps balance the buck-to-doe deer population ratio.
6. Allowing bucks to get older creates a balanced, natural age structure for the deer population
7. Having a balanced age structure improves the overall deer herd.
8. Improving the buck age structure increases the overarching area’s hunting (and land) value.

On a side note, if you’re tracking numerous bucks and following them over a number of years, it’s hard to beat DeerLab’s Profiles. It’s an excellent tool that can help you with your deer management. The service allows you to track individual bucks or even groups of bucks, keeping logs of their activity and movement, as well as seeing a buck’s historical growth over time. One lesser-known feature is Albums. This is helpful if you want to share your trail cam photos (without all the stats DeerLab gives you), say just of your hitlist bucks or photos of mature bucks, with others, so they can help you with your deer management.

Aging Deer on the Hoof: Characteristics of Age Classes

While it’s not likely to age doe on the hoof, keying in on whitetail bucks body characteristics can help you make an age estimation. Each buck exhibits unique antler, body, and personality traits. However, certain body features tend to consistently change with age and exhibit features tethered to particular age groups. Because of this, it makes aging deer possible. Aging deer on the hoof won’t tell you the exact age, but it will within a year or so of its actual age, and this can help deer management.

Some deer body parts to look at when trying to age class a whitetail deer on the hoof include the antlers, back, belly, head, legs, neck, and tarsal glands. Each of these changes over time, and how they look can provide clues as to what age a deer is or isn’t.

Age Estimate: 1 ½-Year-Old Buck

Also referred to as yearling bucks, a 1 ½-year-old resembles a small doe with antlers. Antler size has only reached approximately 20-30% of overall potential and is likely a spike, four-pointer, six-pointer, or very small eight-pointer. Regardless, the spread for younger deer will remain inside the ears.

The head appears long and slender. Body weight distribution is more toward the rear end. The back line appears to slope downward from back to front. The belly and back of the buck do not sag. The deer’s neck has no swelling. Legs seem to be very long compared to their torso. Tarsal glands are lightly stained.

Age Estimate: 2 ½-Year-Old Buck

Once a buck reaches 2 ½-year-old status, it’s synonymous with large does with antlers. It often grows antlers with a spread just inside, at, or just outside the ears, and it’s likely sporting about 50-60% of its lifetime antler potential. Often, it grows between six and 10 points, with a typical average number of eight points.

The head is still long and slender. Body weight distribution shows a heavier rump than front end. This age bracket has a backline that still slopes from the rump to the shoulders but has no sagging of the back or belly. The buck’s neck is generally slightly more muscular than the year before, but no severe swelling occurs. The legs still look too long for the body. Tarsal glands are somewhat stained.

Age Estimate: 3 ½-Year-Old Buck

Now we’re beginning to see some size. This is the age bracket when a buck starts being classified as “big.” It almost always has an antler spread outside the ears and expresses decent mass and good tine length. This buck sports approximately 70-80% of antler potential.

As for the body, the head still appears elongated, but it’s getting thicker from top to bottom, too. It now has a straight line across the back from rump to shoulders (no downward angle or sagging). It has a tight belly line. Weight seems to be distributed evenly from front to back. The neck begins to swell considerably, especially compared to 2 ½-year-old bucks. Legs finally look proportionate to the body. Tarsal glands are moderately stained.

Age Estimate: 4 ½-Year-Old Buck

While a 4 ½-year-old deer is close to being fully mature, it still has much potential to express. In fact, on average, it only grows approximately 80-90% of its antler potential. That said, it exhibits impressive antler size, and begins showing exceptional antler mass, tine length, and more.

The head is now blockier than it once was. Its weight distribution is mostly even from front to back. This age bracket still has a straight line across the back and belly. The neck has significant swelling. The legs still look mainly proportionate to the body. Tarsal glands are heavily stained.

Age Estimate: 5 ½-Year-Old Buck

No hunter can argue that a 5 ½-year-old deer isn’t mature. This animal expresses most of its antler potential, sporting about 90-95% of it, and its body is huge. Antlers generally display incredible mass, beam length, tine length, etc.

Its head appears shorter and thicker than ever before. Weight distribution seems to shift more toward the front of the body. The backline is still straight from rump to shoulders but might show slight swaying. The belly might do the same. The neck shows heavy swelling, and the legs appear too short for the body. Tarsal glands are very heavily stained.

Age Estimate: 6 ½-Plus-Year-Old Buck

Now a bona fide mature deer, a 6 ½-plus-year-old buck’s body is taking on a new shape. It now carries approximately 100% of its antler potential but could grow its largest rack at age 7 ½ or 8 ½. This deer is distinctly different from younger bucks. The difference can be quite staggering.

Its head appears very short and very thick. Weight distribution makes it seem as if the buck’s front is much heavier than the rear end. The back and belly exhibit significant sagging. The neck is extremely swollen. The legs appear much too short for the body. And tarsal glands are extremely stained.

Aging a Harvested Deer

Hunters aren’t limited and restricted to aging deer on the hoof. Although there is no catch and release in hunting, hunters can certainly ground check their bucks, too, which is the act of determining the size, age, and gender of a deer or other game species once it is dead. There are two good ways to do this and a third option that works for supportive reassurance.

Skull Plate Thickness

Speaking of supportive efforts, those who skullcap their bucks will notice older deer exhibit significant increases in skull plate thickness. Generally speaking, the older a deer gets, the thicker its bones and skull plate becomes. The skull plate for young deer is more fragile, while older deer have thicker skulls. In theory, the skull plate aging method works, but when aging deer this way, it’s difficult to measure and it’s definitely not an exact science. If you want to be more accurate, tooth replacement and wear, as well as cementum annuli are the best routes to go.

Tooth Replacement and Wear Method

In contrast, tooth replacement and wear is an excellent and more common method for aging bucks after the harvest compared to on the hoof. This method was developed by C. W. Severinghaus in 1949 (1) and is sometimes referred to as the Severinghaus technique. The bottom jaw changes as deer age. The first step in determining the age of a deer with the tooth replacement and wear technique is counting teeth. Here’s a breakdown centered around tooth characteristics, as well as a video going through deer teeth wear from the Pennsylvania Game Commission.

Fawn Teeth

Fawns have five (or fewer) jaw teeth, and the third premolar has only three cusps. For a fawn 3 to 4 months old, either the first molar is just starting to show, or isn’t showing yet. A fawn that’s 4 to 6 months old has its first molar erupted but its second is not seen. For fawns that are 7 to 9 months old, the second molar is now starting to show or fully erupted, but the third molar can’t be seen.

1½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

Deer or yearlings that are 1 ½-years-old likely have six jaw teeth along the bottom jaw, the third molar is starting to show, and the third premolar tooth has significant wear, having three cusps.

2½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

Once it reaches 2 ½, the third tooth has only two cusps, and the crests are sharp and pointed. There is minimal wear showing on molars.

3½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

At 3 ½, the slight wearing of the permanent teeth is visible, and slight concavity is present. The cusps of the first molar show substantial wear and the third molar is fairly level.

4½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

Most 4 ½-year-old bucks exhibit noticeable tooth wear and often slope heavily downward toward the jawbone. The cusps on the first two molars will have significant wear.

5½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

The same holds true for 5 ½-year-old deer, as the teeth become significantly blunted and worn. All three molars will show significant wear.

6½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

Once deer reach 6 ½ and older, the teeth are worn down smooth, or flattened, and little enamel shows. Eventually, the teeth will wear down very close to the jawbone.

Cementum Annuli Aging

Lastly, the best and most accurate method for aging deer is called cementum annuli (CA). In short, cementum is the connective tissue that forms on the root surface of most teeth.

During the life of a whitetail, as well as other mammals, cementum forms layers or rings, similar to growth rings that you would see in tree trunks. These rings are visible microscopically and form a pattern that wildlife aging experts can use to determine deer ages.

To have a professional age your deer, you would need to remove teeth from the lower jaw and send them off to be examined in a laboratory setting. Once there, the lab studies the teeth and tooth wear to age them. It costs approximately $50 per deer, and two of the most used labs include Matson’s Laboratory and Wildlife Analytical Laboratories.

Appendix

Cementum – A protective hard tissue that surrounds the root of each tooth.Anulli – Layers that are formed over the root of a tooth that are used in the process to age individual deer.Cusps – A point or ridge of a tooth, when viewed from the side.Crest – The top of the cusps or ridges of a tooth.Dentin – That part of the tooth that is beneath enamel and cementumEnamel – The white part of a tooth.Molar – The three permanent teeth in the rear of the deer’s jaw.On the Hoof – Alive, not yet harvested.Premolar – The three teeth in front of the jaw that are replaced by permanent teeth.Skullcap – The top part of the skull.Tarsal Gland – Found on bucks and does, the tarsal gland is a pad of stiff hairs located on the inside of each deer’s rear leg. The gland secretes an oily material that coats the hair, making it darker.

References Cited

1. Severinghaus CW. Tooth development and wear as criteria of age in white-tailed deer. Journal of Wildlife Management. 1949;13(2):195-216.

Public land whitetail hunting is nothing new. However, in recent years, it has exploded in popularity. But why? There are a few major reasons, but there’s one big solution that is allowing hunters to be more nimble and get to where they need to be to take down deer on public dirt: hunting saddles.

Knock-on-door permission is difficult to obtain these days, and most blue-collar whitetail goers can’t afford a pricey lease. Also, many whitetail hunters are over the constant grooming of private land to create a whitetail haven. Food plots can work, but they also take a hell of a lot of work, time, and often money.

Plus, hunting public land is easier and better than ever before. As more whitetail hunters look to get in the field, state game and fish agencies have done an excellent job of creating more public access nationwide.

And some bowhunters want the added challenge of chasing big bucks on public dirt.

There are entire YouTube channels like The Hunting Public and outdoor television shows dedicated to public-land deer pursuits. In today’s whitetail world, it’s cooler to be a run-and-gun public-land warrior than it is to have hundreds of acres of private, manicured whitetail dirt.

Of course, public-land hunting ushers in a litany of challenges. One of those challenges is treestand hunting. Leaving a hang-on stand with climbing sticks in a tree overnight is illegal in many states. In other states, you can leave a stand-and-stick combo in a tree for a week, but not for a month.

And, of course, aluminum hang-on stands and sticks are a chore to tote around the woods, and for many public land whitetail hunters, especially those who find regular success wandering off the beaten path, weight and space in a backpack is an issue if they’re hauling a stand and their climbing gear.

Plus, since not everyone has things like ethics and scruples, there’s also no guarantee all the parts of your stand will still be there when you walk in pre-dawn to your public land spot.

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The Tree Saddle

Enter the tree saddle into the deer hunting gear arsenal.

A tree saddle is a significant win for those who prefer hunting North America’s favorite big-game animals from 20 feet up. Also called hunting saddles or treestand saddles, they are specialized equipment used by hunters to provide a secure and comfortable way to hunt from a tree without using a large metal platform.

A tree saddle consists of a harness-like system that goes around the waist. It typically includes a waist belt, leg loops, and adjustable straps. The harness distributes your weight evenly and provides stability while you’re standing in the tree.

A small platform is used for foot placement, but the harness system brings a new name to hang-and-hunt. A hunter hangs in the air, with their feet on the miniature platform. A rope from the waist belt will run to a line with a carabiner, which wraps around the entirety of the tree’s trunk.

A saddle is drastically lighter than any kind of climbing tree stand, and you can hunt with one from even the most gnarled and crooked trees in the woods. Plus, your mobility is greatly maximized once you’re in the tree.

How to Use a Tree Saddle

To use a tree saddle, select a suitable tree and attach the climbing system. Many saddle hunters use lightweight aluminum climbing sticks to help them get up the tree safely and quickly.

Once you reach the height you want, secure the saddle to the tree by wrapping a rope or webbing around the trunk and connecting it to the saddle. This creates a secure attachment point.

Next, you can sit or stand in the saddle, supported by the harness. The saddle design allows for flexibility and maneuverability, enabling you to shift positions or rotate around the tree trunk to get the best angle for a shot. Some tree saddles also have additional accessories, such as platforms or pouches for gear storage.

Tree saddles are popular among hunters who value mobility, versatility, and stealth. They offer a lightweight and portable alternative to traditional treestands that allows hunters to set up quickly in various locations and adapt to changing hunting conditions. Additionally, tree saddles provide a more intimate connection to the tree, enhancing the feeling of being one with your surroundings.

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The Big Benefit

With a saddle, platform, and sticks, you can hop from tree to tree quickly and quietly to take advantage of right-now deer movement.

From the early season to the rut to the late season, you can quickly move around the woods to put yourself in the best position to take advantage of what’s putting a big buck where he wants to be: food, girls, and cover.

And hunters who border-hop and hunt whitetails on public ground in multiple states don’t need to have a pickup bed full of treestands and sticks if they switch to a saddle. A single platform, a set of climbing sticks, and a saddle is all you need.

The Best Hunting Saddles, Platforms, and Sticks

It’s hard to beat the Venatic Saddle from TrophyLine, a top-of-the-line saddle manufacturer. Weighing only 20 ounces without the bridge and 30 ounces with the bridge and carabiner, this ultralight saddle provides comfort, durability, and ease of use.

The fabric is ultralight ripstop nylon, and a rigid rubber MOLLE band runs the entire length of the saddle for adding pouches and accessories. The rubberized waistband boosts comfort and grip.

The straps have been cut in half to increase comfort but without sacrificing strength. I also love the durable Foldback Lineman Loops. The foldback design prevents snags on brush when hiking in.

Pair the Venatic with TrophyLine’s Onyx Platform and Double Step Mini Climbing Sticks. The Angled Perimeter of the Onyx means angles on each side of the platform, with built-in non-slip ridges for more secure foot placement, plus the single-cast post is a breeze to set.

The 17-inch Double Step sticks come in a four-pack, and, as the name suggests, they feature fixed double steps for increased comfort and safety, and the pivoting V-bracket on each stick means you can get a stick to fit any trunk.

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The Phantom Starter Saddle Kit from Tethrd is a great piece of gear and a favorite among bowhunters. The kit comes with everything you need to get up a tree and get to hunting for just over $400.

The kit comes with the Phantom Saddle, a Lineman Belt, a tether, and an optional platform. With this kit, you’ll have everything you need to wander public and private tracts looking for that perfect 18-feet-up ambush point. Once you find it, this system will have you safely and comfortably up the tree in no time. The saddle fits waist sizes ranging from 28 to 40 inches.

It’s important to note that hunting laws and regulations vary by jurisdiction, so you must familiarize yourself with local regulations and obtain any required licenses or permits before engaging in hunting activities.

Additionally, any hunting equipment, including tree saddles, should always be used with proper safety precautions and after training to minimize the risk of accidents or injuries.

Final Thoughts

Killing a whitetail with any weapon is a difficult task. However, when a buck exposes his weakness, whether it be a late- or early-season food source or his need to chase girls, being able to be where he wants to be will stack the odds of success in your favor.

Few tools allow you to capitalize on deer movement quickly and quietly the way a lightweight, comfortable tree saddle can.

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