Some years back, I was invited to hunt rabbits with a group of dedicated houndsmen who loved to run (and shoot) rabbits with their beagles. The day had been a relative success with our group scoring on about 18 rabbits for the day. For my personal efforts, I had managed to pull the trigger on a small number of the critters, missing a couple and accounting for a few in the final bag. The hunt had reminded me how enjoyable a small-game hunt can be—no stressed strategizing to score on the biggest racked trophy around or overly tactical effort like calling a longbeard to the gun—just trying to nab game as it appeared for the sake of shooting and adding to the bag limit. The whole experience left me wanting more.

The problem was, I didn’t have a pack of beagles. But I knew some places where I had frequently seen rabbits, both on my farm and my brother’s, so I decided to set off for some brush with a shotgun stoked with No. 6s draped across the crook of my arm. The results were surprising. While I didn’t bag as many rabbits on that first solo effort due to some tricky shooting, I scared up a lot more than I had expected. The effort opened up a new world of hunting to me. With rabbit season where I live running well into February, long after most other seasons have closed, it’s a great opportunity to grab another day or two of time outdoors and, with a little effort, enjoy a bit of exercise that typically results in more meat for stews or to accompany a side dish of risotto.

Whether you’re hunting solo or with a buddy or two, hunting rabbits without hounds is a relatively simple affair with good odds for success. Rabbits are abundant anywhere wild cover is available, meaning you are almost certain to find game. Here’s how to score on your own rabbit adventures.

Find ‘Em FirstRabbits don’t travel far between cover and food so one of the best places to find them is in thick, brushy areas right next to where they like to eat—open grassy areas with clovers and broadleaf weeds, or crop fields that have been planted in soybeans, peanuts, wheat, alfalfa and the like. Brushy patches of blackberries, honeysuckle, blueberry and other viney, tangled brush provide great cover for animals where they can feed without fear of being nabbed by avian predators. Brushy ditches and fencerows through fields, as well as brush piles and windrows, also provide excellent havens.

In the deep winter chill, brushy areas on south-facing slopes (or in flat-land the side of cover facing the sun) can be more productive, as rabbits will slip to the edge of their hideout and sun themselves for warmth.

In many areas where deer hunters have worked to establish lush, green plots to attract whitetails, you’ll find the overgrown edges bordering these deer magnets will also harbor a nice population of bunnies. The brushier the borders around these open areas, the better. Rabbits will also grow thick in overgrown clearcuts that have repopulated with small saplings that provide abundant twigs and bark for rabbits to chew on.

Gearing UpIt doesn’t take much to pull off a rabbit hunt, but a few key items will certainly make it more successful and comfortable for you. Some guys are content to sit at field edges at dawn or dusk, looking to snipe a few targets as they appear to feed, and for that, a precision-scoped .22 is ideal. This is a fine way to hunt them that will definitely produce, but after a season of sitting in a stand for whitetails, I personally don’t want to sit and wait for rabbits. I want to go after them and kick them up, which means using the scattergun. A 12-gauge remains the most versatile game gun for any sportsman, and without a doubt, serves the rabbit hunter ably, but I prefer a lighter, more compact 20-gauge for tromping brush and swinging in cover. The smaller, well-pointed charge, loaded with No. 6 shot is more than ample for rabbits.

Because you will likely be traipsing through thick, briar-laced cover to kick these creatures into the open, your legs will take some abuse. For this, a good pair of vinyl-faced brush pants or heavy chaps are a must, along with light, but durable boots with leather or Cordura uppers for walking. I like an old-style canvas upland game jacket too, with a lined nylon game pouch built into the rear for toting a brace as you collect the small treasures. A small backpack can also do the trick for keeping your hands free for more shooting.

When hunting with others, safety orange vests and/or hats are a really good idea, too, since hunters are generally obscured by the thick cover in which rabbits are found, yet are in close proximity to each other while hunting them.

Walk ‘Em UpMy favorite and most productive hunts are in spots where the brush is no more than waist-high and surrounded by relatively open ground that a bolting rabbit has to cross for an exposed shot. With your shotgun at the ready, simply plunge in and slowly walk a zigzag pattern—keeping your eyes alert for flashes of brown—and listen for scurrying ahead of you. Pause frequently, creating an almost herky-jerky approach that will leave rabbits guessing which way you are about to go and making them nervous. A nervous rabbit is one ready to move. I like to walk slowly for about 10 to 15 paces and then pause 20 to 30 seconds before moving on. This seems to work well. When working overgrown cutovers, look for areas that are no more than two to three years old. More than that, and they will be so grown up that while they’ll harbor plenty of rabbits, seeing and shooting them may be next to impossible.

A hunter can walk plenty of rabbit-rich brush, but if it is so thick he can’t see more than a few feet in front of him, then it will be a lot of wasted effort. Like the smaller patches of brush and tangles of honeysuckle and briars I prefer to hit, other good spots that offer the perfect blend between hideout and visibility include fencerows and ditches in fields as well as brush piles pushed up at the edge of open woods. Whether hunting rabbits or other species, I try to note these high-production spots throughout the season and return to them time and again when hunting for rabbits.

If hunting with partners, take turns with one guy working brush in this manner, while the others post slightly ahead, repositioning quietly and frequently as you progress. When hunting in pairs, hunters can also flank each other, standing 15 to 20 yards apart depending on the amount of brush they’re working, and alternate walking ahead of each other and pausing.

Hunting rabbits is really no more difficult than that—its simplicity in approach and execution, a big part of what makes it so much fun.

Last Updated: September 4, 2019 If you are as obsessed with knives as I am, you may be on the hunt for “the perfect EDC knife.” You know, the one blade that has it all. Naturally, it is the perfect size, features great materials, is beautifully designed, and carries like a dream. But in my mind a perfect EDC needs to go beyond that. It has to be greater than the sum of its parts, and a little “X factor” never hurt either. Lets be real, for a knife to earn some time in the rotation is one thing, but to stand the test of time the knife has to work for you on another level.

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That is what drew me to the Benchmade 940. On paper it has all the basic requirements of a good EDC knife, which is always nice to see. But then the 940 had something else. Maybe it’s the unique handle, or the unconventional blade shape. Whatever it was, it drew me in like a moth to a flame, and I know that I am not the first to succumb to this emerald beauty. The 940 has been in Benchmade‘s catalog for well over a decade, and remains one of their most popular designs to this day. Needless to say, it is high time we gave this classic a thorough review.

General Dimensions and Blade Details

The 940 (or “940 Osborne”) has an overall length of 7.87″, a 3.4″ blade, weighs 2.90 ounces, and is made in the USA. In my mind these are real nice numbers for EDC, and that is exactly how I have been using my 940.

But I can also appreciate how the 940 could go beyond a mere EDC item. With an almost 3.5″ blade and an equally generous handle, the 940 could easily be pressed into a self defense role (although I sincerely hope you will never need to use it that way). On the opposite end of the spectrum, the 940 is a beautiful and elegant knife. In many ways exemplifies a modern gentleman’s folder. This is a knife that would do just fine in a suit pocket, or carried on special occasions. So I really like the versatility of the 940. It is fancy enough to make for an upscale EDC, but is big enough to get a lot of work done.

The blade on the 940 is a reverse tanto design. Popularized by the 940’s designer, Warren Osborne, this unique blade shape is best known for providing a sturdy tip, although I think the main draw is just the unique aesthetics. Warren has designed a few reverse tanto models for Benchmade, including the Benchmade Rift and I have generally been impressed by them. This particular blade has been given a high flat grind, and features a swedge running across the top. The 3mm thick blade holds it’s thickness pretty much to the tip thanks to the reverse tanto design. This is an interesting blade shape, and I found it quite capable for all my daily tasks.

The 940 Osborne makes use of S30V for the blade steel, an excellent USA made stainless from the folks over at Crucible. I have spoken about S30V many times before, but as a quick recap S30V is widely regarded as one of the best high end steels commonly found on production knives. When properly heat treated S30V is known for good edge retention, high corrosion resistance, relatively easy sharpening, and a good level of toughness for daily use. I am a big fan of S30V and Benchmade always does a fantastic job with heat treating their blades. Treated to 58-60 HRC, this 940 was no exception.

Handle, Ergonomics and Pocket Clip

The handle on the 940 is where things start to get interesting. First you have the striking aluminum handles. These have been bead-blasted to an attractive matte finish, and then anodized a deep green. I absolutely love the texture of these handles. They aren’t particularly aggressive, but they aren’t slippery either – given the intended use I found it to be a nice balance. Sandwiched between the aluminum handles is a single piece of anodized purple titanium. This backspacer compliments the green handles nicely, and provides a good deal of visual interest.

As for actual construction, the 940’s handle is top notch. There are partial stainless steel liners, and they have been polished to a lustrous shine. I like how when you peer inside the knife the liners reflect the titanium backspacer. It is a little detail, but some times it’s the small stuff that gets you going. Everything has been screwed together with black hardware, and all the pieces line up perfectly. The overall fit and finish of this knife is exceptional.

In 2015 Benchmade released the 940-1, a premium version of the 940 with carbon fiber handles and a S90V blade. It’s a beautiful knife and well worth considering if you are a fan of the original 940. Check out our review of the 940-1 here.

In hand the 940 is surprisingly capable. I say “surprisingly” because at a glance we have a rather thin handle here. In practice I found the handle long enough to comfortably accept my larger hand, and the rows of jimping on both the thumb ramp and finger choil provide a good amount of grip. It is a comfortable knife in forward grips, and I can get some good work done with it. The 940 also works well in reverse grip, and in the closed position as well. Actually, when closed, the 940’s thin profile makes it an excellent choice as a kubotan – another nice option to have.

The pocket clip on the 940 Osborne is a standard Benchmade clip – the same kind you will find in models like their classic Griptilian and Mini Griptilian. I am a big fan of this style of clip. It is simple, sturdy, and works quite well. Benchmade drilled and tapped this model for ambidextrous tip up carry. In pocket the 940 carries wonderfully. Thin and lightweight, this is a knife that you forget you are carrying.

Here is your pocket clip shot:

Deployment and Lockup

The 940 makes use of a pair of ambidextrous thumb studs and an axis lock. Much like many of the other Benchmade knives that I have reviewed with this configuration, deployment on the 940 is extremely fast and smooth. The thumb studs are easy to access allowing you to flick the blade out with alarming speed and very little effort. Phosphor bronze washers aid in that regard, and the net result is reliable deployment in any situation.

Similarly, the axis lock on my knife has also been really well done. Lockup is tight with no blade play, yet the lock is easy to disengage with a single hand, and the blade rotates freely into the closed position. It is no secret I am a big fan of the axis lock, and the 940 is a great example of why. If true one hand operation is important to you (as a righty or a lefty) then I find the combination of thumb studs and an axis lock very tough to beat.

Benchmade 940 Osborne Review – Final Thoughts

The 940 combines excellent materials with smart design and wonderful fit and finish to produce an exceptional daily carry item. On paper this has always looked like an awesome knife, so I was very happy to find that the 940 was just as awesome in real life. Everything works, and it works well. The way I see it, the biggest potential downside here is that the knife isn’t particularly cheap, but for a made in the USA folder with these kinds of features, I actually think the price is quite reasonable.

But what about beyond the specifications? Do we really have a “perfect” EDC knife? I must admit, there is something special about this one. The 940 has really distinguished itself as a design and it has a little something extra that keeps me coming back. I don’t doubt that for many people this will be a perfect EDC knife.

I recommend purchasing the 940 at Amazon and BladeHQ. Buying anything through the links on this website earns BladeReviews a small commission at no additional cost to you. All proceeds generated are used to keep the site running. Thank you very much for your support.

We’ve all experienced it. We head to the grocery store to pick up a few things, only to see that there’s a sale on our favorite meats. If you’re like many people who love a good sale, you stock your cart with raw chicken, steak, or even breakfast meats in an effort to save yourself both time and money in the long run. And in the midst of grabbing as many packs as you possibly can, you think to yourself: “How long can meat stay safely frozen?” And, “Does frozen meat go bad?”

Whether you ask these questions in-store or at home when shuffling through your freezer and finding a tucked away pack of steaks, the topic of frozen meats is one that may deliver different answers depending on who you ask. But we’re here to finally put the question to rest, as the USDA states that as long as all foods are stored at 0 °F or lower in your freezer, they are safe to eat indefinitely.

It’s important to note, though, that while food stored constantly at 0 °F will always be safe, the quality of the food once defrosted can still suffer over time. It may not make you sick, but it won’t necessarily taste like freshly-cooked meat, either.

So, to help you stay on track and make sure you’re making the most of your freezer space, we’ve broken down what you should keep in mind when it comes to freezing both raw and cooked meat, poultry, seafood, and more.

How to safely store meat in the freezer

If you’ve decided to place your meat in the freezer, ensuring that you’re doing it the right way is the first step to maximizing freshness. As the USDA notes, you want to remember that the quality of your meat at the time of freezing determines its frozen state condition. If you can’t use it quickly, freeze items sooner rather than later. Food frozen at peak quality will taste better once thawed than foods “frozen near the end of their useful life,” according to USDA food safety guidelines.

While lengthy freezer storage can affect the quality of any food, it’s also worth noting that raw meat and poultry maintain their quality longer than cooked meat and poultry do. This is because of the moisture lost during the cooking process. Either way, once it’s in the freezer, you want to ensure that all foods are stored at 0 °F or lower to retain the color, vitamin content, texture, and — of course — flavor. Freezing to 0 °F also inactivates any microbes — meaning bacteria, yeasts, and molds — that may be in food.

But what about actually storing meat? Can it be tucked away in its original packaging? The simple answer to that is yes, it is safe to freeze your meat and poultry in the original packaging. If you plan to keep your meat or poultry frozen in its original package for a longer period of time (more than two months) or happen to see a tear in its original packaging, however, the FDA notes that you’ll want to overwrap the packages with airtight plastic wrap, freezer paper, or heavy-duty foil, or simply place the package inside of a plastic bag.

Can meat go bad in the freezer?

Freezing meat is a simple and effective way to stock up on your protein of choice, and meat doesn’t technically “go bad” while in the freezer. As the USDA website states, “Because freezing keeps food safe almost indefinitely, recommended storage times are for quality only.” So, here are a few things to keep in mind to help determine the quality of your meat once unfrozen.

How to defrost meat safely

Keep in mind that your thawing process affects the freshness of your meat, too. As the USDA cautions, never thaw foods out on the kitchen counter or in your garage, basement, car, outdoors, or on the porch. Any of these methods can make your food unsafe to eat. There are three safe ways to thaw frozen foods. The first and most recommended is slow, safe thawing in the refrigerator — overnight or over a day or two, depending on the size. A quicker method is to put your meat in a leak-proof plastic bag and let it sit, fully immersed, in cold water. After thawing in cold water, cook immediately. Finally, you can defrost food using the microwave, but again, plan to then cook it immediately. Also, when microwaving to defrost, the food can actually start to cook in some areas.

Is freezer burnt meat safe to eat?

Contrary to popular belief, if your meat (or frozen food in general) develops freezer burn, it’s actually not unsafe to eat. It may not taste great, but just cut the freezer-burned areas off either pre- or post-cooking and enjoy the remainder of your meal. If it is heavily freezer-burned though, the quality will most likely be compromised and you may want to toss it.

How long does meat last in the freezer?

To reiterate, since freezing your food at 0 °F or below keeps it safe pretty much indefinitely, you can defrost and eat any frozen meats or poultry (that has been stored correctly) at any given time. That doesn’t mean, however, that its quality will stay good forever. For the best quality, the FDA recommends that you consume frozen meats, poultry, and seafood within the following timeframes:

Beef, Lamb, Pork, and Veal

If you plan to stock up on fresh meats like beef, lamb, pork, or veal anytime soon, you’ll want to know that — depending on the cut of meat — they can retain their quality in the freezer for months on end. Steak, particularly, is recommended to stay frozen for six to 12 months, while chops have a recommended freezer life of four to six months. Roasts on the other hand, can still offer a quality taste after being frozen from four to 12 months. Other meats like tongue, liver, and chitterlings only retain their quality for three to four months.

Processed pork — such as bacon and sausage (whether pork, chicken, or turkey), hot dogs, and lunch meats — tastes best when kept frozen for one to two months, while raw hamburger, ground, and stew meats can last between three to four months.

Poultry

Like the above, fresh poultry items have a timeframe for the quality of freshness, too — but it depends on which part of the poultry you’re freezing. If freezing whole chicken or turkey, it can last in your freezer for up to one year. Chicken and turkey parts can last for nine months while giblets are suggested to be stored for a shorter time span of three to four months.

Fish and Shellfish

As fish and shellfish include multiple options, the time span of their quality differs, too. Lean fish can stay in your freezer for six to eight months, while fatty fish is recommended to stay tucked away for two to three months. The FDA recommends consuming frozen cooked fish within four to six months, and smoked fish within two months. And finally, fresh shrimp, scallops, crawfish, and squid can stay in your freezer and retain their quality for three to six months.

Cooked and Leftover Meats

If you’re left with an overflow of cooked meats after a delicious meal, don’t worry; those can be frozen, too. The FDA also says that meat leftovers — including cooked meat, meat dishes, and gravy and meat broth — can all be stored for two to three months in your freezer. Cooked poultry on the other hand, depends on what you’ve cooked. Fried chicken and plain, cooked pieces of chicken can last for four months; cooked poultry dishes for four to six months; meats covered with broth or gravy up to six months; and lastly, cooked chicken nuggets and patties for one to three months.

Ultimately though, no matter what type of meat or poultry you choose to freeze, if it is thawed in the refrigerator, you’re safe to refreeze it without cooking it. As the USDA cautions, though, any foods left outside the refrigerator for longer than a two hour time span (or a single hour in temperatures above 90 °F), should not be refrozen.

Ready to cook up some of that meat and poultry from your freezer while it will still taste its best? Get some inspiration from our lists of light dinner ideas, easy chicken dinner recipes, and ground beef recipes for busy weeknights.

The John Breen Buck, shot in northern Minnesota in 1918, is considered by many whitetail experts to be the greatest typical ever, despite the fact that at 202 net B&C points he’s several notches down the list from No. 1. This isn’t an attempt to take anything away from the incredible trophies that outscore him, but few other typicals can approach this buck’s “shock value.”

Back in 1903, John took a job as a store clerk in the northern Minnesota town of Bemidji. At that time, a vast area of logged-over woods lay between there and the Canadian border 100 miles to the north. Transportation in the region was difficult, and the use of a horse and buggy was still common. From Bemidji, a railroad ran northeastward all the way to the border town of International Falls. Some 30 miles from Bemidji, the tracks went through the small town of Funkley in Beltrami County. And, that’s where whitetail history was made.

“People who lived north of Bemidji liked to catch the train and ride it into town to do their shopping,” said Ray, John’s youngest son. “In those days, you could flag the train down anywhere along its rout and ride it for two cents a mile. For a lot of people, it was a real treat.

“One of Dad’s customers, Knute Week, lived up near Funkley, at a flagstop place known as Hopt. He would come into Bemidji every so often to do his shopping. Week had access to some good deer hunting land up near Funkley, and he invited Dad to go up and hunt with him,” Ray recalled.

One cold day in November 1918, while two of his sons were overseas fighting in World War I, John grabbed his rifle and gear and hopped aboard the train for Funkley. When he returned home a day or two later, he had with him a deer so large that even back then it cre­ated quite a stir.

“I still can remember when he brought it home,” said Ray, who was 12 at the time. “He had quite a time getting it back to the house. He had to bring it down to Bemidji by train; then he had to get a horse and wagon to transport it from the depot to our house. The story that I always heard was that he was on his stand with his .30/30 rifle when a bunch of deer came by. Several does were being chased by a buck. He raised his rifle and started to shoot at the buck. All of a sudden, he saw this great rack of horns coming through the woods, so he took aim and shot this big buck instead.

“When he got the buck home, everybody came by to see it. A lot of people made a big fuss over it. The rack was so big that even in those days everybody knew that it was something special. The rack was so wide that we had a hard time getting it through the front door of the house.

“Dad knew his buck was really unusual,” Ray added, “and he was awfully proud of it. After much deliberation, he decided to have it mounted. He sent the antlers over to a taxidermist in Duluth—a man named Story. Mr. Story took one look at those antlers and offered him $50 cash for them. Now, $50 was a lot of money back in those days, probably equal to about half a month’s wages. Dad turned him down flat. That deer meant too much to him.

“It seemed like we ate on that old buck for weeks,” Ray added, “and he was one tough old boy. The deer was thin and gaunt when Dad brought him home, despite the size of his antlers. He was a big-bodied deer, and I remember people saying that he weighed well over 200 pounds. Dad tried to give away some of the meat, but it was so tough that nobody wanted it.”

John died in 1947 at the age of 81. Several years later, B&C introduced its new scoring system, and at the urging of friends, the family decided to have the head officially measured. With an unprecedented net typical score of 202 points, the Breen Buck immediately became the world record typical, even though he suffered heavy deductions for non-typical points. The Breen Buck held the record until 1964, when the James Jordan Buck was recognized as a new No. 1 typical.

During the late 1960s, an antler col­lector from the East Coast wrote the Breen family and asked if they wanted to sell the rack.

“His name was Dr. Chuck Arnold, a dentist in Boston,” Ray recalled. “He wasn’t sure whether we spoke English or not, so he wrote to us in both French and English. He said he collected antlers, and he offered us $1,000 for the rack. After talking it over, we decided not to take his offer because we didn’t want the antlers to leave northern Minnesota. After all, Dad’s trophy was Minnesota’s largest typical whitetail of all time (a position the deer still holds today), and we felt it should remain in the state. However, by this time, the old mount was beginning to show its age. For a while, we let it hang in a local store, but most of the time, it hung in our house.

“We talked to sev­eral different museums about possi­bly taking the trophy, but at the time, no one seemed to have much interest in it,” Ray added. “Then, in 1970, Dr. Arnold wrote to us again. This time, he offered us $1,500 for the antlers. He promised us that he would take good care of the trophy and that he would see to it that it got the kind of recognition it deserved. We talked it over and decided to take his offer.”

Dr. Arnold did indeed take good care of the buck . . . and avid whitetail hunters everywhere are glad of it.

The exceptional fact about the Breen buck is that its gross typical frame scored 215 0/8. Six small abnormal points kept this buck from being the world record. Without those points the buck would have had a net score of approximately 210.

The main beams measure 31 2/8″ and 31″ in length, with 6″ bases. The 26 7/8″-wide rack has outstanding tine length and is truly a masterpiece of nature. When compared side by side with similar scoring giants, any hunter would pick this buck as number one!

When Native Americans go hunting, they sometimes eat the deer’s heart as a way of honoring the animal. The heart is seen as a symbol of courage, and eating it is seen as a way of taking in the animal’s strength. In some tribes, the heart is also eaten as a way of showing respect for the deer’s spirit.

A typical size heart can produce enough meat for four or five lunches. This method of cooking allows the heart to retain its delicate flavor while also providing it with a nutritious and tasty taste. Rather than overpower the flavor, the mustard and sharp cheddar work to enhance it. It is simple to save a deer’s heart.

Deer Camp is a hunting destination where hunters make a pact to eat their heart out. A freshly killed animal’s heart was traditionally eaten by Native Americans. As a result, Indians regarded the animal as both brave and powerful, as well as a graceful and graceful animal.

Heart tartare is one of the best ways to eat your heart. Heart tartare is the preparation of meat that does not require it to be cooked. Because the heart is so lean, it can be difficult to cook. You get the full flavor of the animal that you hunted by serving it raw.

Several of the vitamins found in deer hearts, as well as the vitamins B2, B6, and B12, are also found in other animals’ hearts. Eating heart regularly can help improve your health, as well as boost your energy, if you are tired and run down, or if you have high blood pressure.

Do Hunters Eat Deer Hearts?

There is no one answer to this question as it depends on the individual hunter. Some hunters may choose to eat the heart of the deer they have killed, while others may not. Some people believe that eating the heart of the animal you have killed is a way of honoring the animal and taking all of its power into yourself, while others may simply find the taste of heart to be unpleasant. Ultimately, it is up to the hunter to decide whether or not they want to eat the heart of the deer they have killed.

There has been a lot of debate about whether or not it is healthy to eat deer hearts. Johnny Yuile posted a photo of himself and his daughter eating the heart of a freshly killed young deer in 2016 as they commemorated their first night of hunting in the field. According to Native Americans, deer hunting is a sacred ritual. The act of eating a heart is associated with our lives as well as those around us. Raw meat should not be consumed by anyone. Raw meat from a deer can infect it with parasites, so eat it when it is still fresh, two days after harvest, to reduce the risk of infection with viruses such as hepatitis E. A younger deer’s heart is preferred by hunters over an older deer’s heart. Others will prepare it on their own, in addition to the other ingredients. A deer heart is roughly the size of a large adult human, and it can produce enough meat to feed four to five people.

Even though harvesting and cooking deer hearts may appear gruesome, they can be extremely satisfying. If you want to be bold, try cooking it up as a steak and serving it with a rich, red wine reduction sauce. Alternatively, serve it as is with a side of roasted potatoes for a simple, elegant meal.

Did Native Americans Eat Buffalo Heart?

There is no one answer to this question as there are many different Native American tribes with their own unique traditions and customs. Some tribes may have eaten buffalo heart as part of a ceremonial or religious ritual, while others may have simply considered it a delicious and nutritious part of the animal that should not be wasted. In general, Native Americans tended to use every part of the buffalo they hunted, so it is likely that at least some tribes did eat buffalo heart.

Buffalo, also known as the American Bison, has played an important role in the survival and culture of Native Americans over time. Every part of Buffalo is used by Native Americans to provide food, clothing, tools, fuel, and utensils. The hides are used in the construction of robes, bedding, and rugs in Native America. Buffalo horns are frequently cleaned and cut into trinkets, spoons, and rattles. Buffalo hair can be cut and spun into cordage, which is then strung, belted, or otherwise used. You can use the tendons from the back and legs as sewing tools by tearing them out and drying them.

Delicacies Of The Plains Indians

The Plains Indians were known to eat boiled bison brains, hearts, shoulder blades, tongues, and stalks of meat from snouts. They used hooves, tails, and pemmican to make the soup, which was made with hump bison (the shoulder). The Plains Indians were known to eat boiled bison brains, hearts, shoulder blades, tongues, and brain and thigh bones from their snouts.

Do People Bite The Heart Of Their First Deer?

No, people do not bite the heart of their first deer. This is not a common practice among hunters.

If they’re eating deer meat and it’s fresh, why is it called meat? Is it possible to drink blood? When I cut it up, I sprinkle it with salt and a little pepper cover and fry it like a backstrap. Simply soak the blood in it and trim it a little as you go. We used to boil all the hearts to make sandwiches and toss them in a pot with mustard when I was younger (early 1970s). It is not a good idea to open the guts of your first time partner. It is very simple to grab it through the rib cage. The deer is my favorite variety.

Hunter’s First Deer: A Tradition Of Good Luck

When hunting their first deer, hunters usually daub some of its blood on themselves. It is customary for the hunter to wear a bow during this time period to commemorate their accomplishment and to bring good fortune for the future. They believed that the god would be pleased with them, and that the animal would provide them with food for the coming year. Cherokees would seek the gods’ forgiveness after killing an animal. As a sacrifice, some of the animal’s meat would also be thrown into the fire.

Learning where to shoot a deer is, of course, the most important lesson a new hunter can learn. It’s important to be able to visualize your shot placement and where you’re hoping to hit vitals. We’ve built out the ultimate guide for just that so you can not only see exactly where you need to aim, but also the path your bullet or arrow will take through the deer’s vitals.

It’s exciting to be eye to eye with deer in a ground blind or when you’re on a spot-and-stalk hunt. Every move you make is seen, your scent is more noticeable and your aiming point can be different. Even the best deer rifle can’t help you overcome bad shot placement. Let’s look at different strategies for hunting on the ground.

Eye-Level Quartering-Toward Shot

The quartering-to shot is a tough shot for a bowhunter. Often, it is best to wait for the deer to give you a better angle. If you are a veteran bowhunter and confident you can make the quartering-to shot, your aiming point should be right behind the elbow of the lead leg. At 15 yards or less, wait for the deer to move the lead leg forward and take your shot. The goal is to hit the lung and liver.

The quartering-to shot is not a horrible angle for rifle hunters, but not ideal either. If the deer is not going to give you a better angle, then aim right behind the elbow of the lead leg. Other choices are between the lead leg and breastplate or high shoulder. Hunters should avoid the shoulder socket; this is not a great choice for any weapon.

Eye-Level Quartering-Away Shot

The quartering-away shot is the bowhunter’s dream. The deer is less likely to see you draw your bow, and important vitals are exposed. It’s best to aim for the opposite shoulder and worry less about the point of entry. When you hit the opposite shoulder, you have sent an arrow through the vitals and the tracking job is usually short and sweet.

The quartering-away shot for rifle hunters is extremely lethal.

Ideally, the opposite shoulder is taken out, and the deer does not travel far. It is best to aim for the opposite shoulder, knowing you will take out most vitals along the way. Let a young hunter sit in a stand that will likely have a quartering away shot. The success rate is high, and they will never forget the hunt.

The Eye-Level Broadside Shot

The broadside shot is one bowhunters should not hesitate to take. Find a tuft of hair or spot of mud just behind the lower shoulder. You are trying to aim at something small in hopes of missing small. A tuft of hair is often easier to aim at than the entire side of a deer. The goal is a clean pass-thru for a quick kill and an easier tracking job.

The broadside shot for the large caliber hunters is more challenging than one might think. A high shoulder shot here is ideal. The animal will go down right away, and a follow-up shot is seldom needed. Don’t take this shot for granted; stay focused, and you will soon load this deer in the truck.

Hunters in tree stands or elevated blinds have a distinct advantage. Their scent is harder to detect, their movement is often not noticed and they have a greater field of view. The disadvantage can be that shot placement is different from an elevated position than on the ground. Let’s look at other strategies from an elevated stand or blind.

The Elevated Quartering-Toward Shot

The quartering-to shot for bowhunters is not ideal. If the deer is not going to give you a better angle, then the point of aim is just above and behind the elbow of the lead leg. Your best chance to hit the lungs and liver is when the deer moves its front foot forward. Remember, with an elevated shot, the exit point is as important as the entry point. The quartering-to shot for rifle hunters is not the ideal shot to take, but it’s not the worst. Much like the bowhunter, you want to aim right behind and slightly above the elbow of the lead leg. Hopefully, you can wait until the lead leg is forward. You can also use the area between the lead leg and breastplate for a lethal shot.

The Elevated Quartering-Away Shot

The elevated quartering-away shot will give any bowhunter buck fever. Bowhunters know this angle will expose important vitals, and the likelihood of jumping the string is low. Make sure your shooting lanes are clear and aim for the opposite shoulder. Your entry point may seem high, but you will have a clean kill as your arrow travels through vitals.

A rifle hunter making an elevated quartering-away shot should also aim at the opposite shoulder. With an accurate shot, this deer is going down. Not everyone thinks about a quartering away shot when setting up a tree stand. Make sure you have a clean window to shoot through as the deer walks by.

The Elevated Broadside Shot

The elevated broadside shot is what every bowhunter plans for. Shooting lanes are trimmed and corn is left in the perfect spot to stop the deer broadside. Your aim should be right behind the elbow of the front leg. Not too high since broadside deer are notorious for dropping on the shot. Visualize the shot before and during your sit. Relax and don’t overthink the shot; this is what you have waited on.

The elevated broadside shot for a rifle hunter is the stuff dreams are made of. The high shoulder is a great aiming point — this spot often drops the deer quickly. If you’re filming your hunt with a scope-mounted camera, make sure you stay on the deer after the recoil. Often, this shot results in the deer going down on camera. Have a Strategy

Many hunters don’t think about shot strategy until the deer is in front of them. This lack of planning only adds to the effects of buck fever. There are other angles to consider, but they generally end with the walk of shame. We discussed how the quartering-to, quartering-away and broadside shot strategies will help you make an ethical and lethal shot.

Humans are typically afraid of bears and for good reason. They are big, loud, powerful, and downright intimidating. Figurately, our fear of bears is not typically warranted because bears pose little threat to us overall. Black bears, which are the most common bears humans tend to come across, are responsible for an average of one human death each year in the United States. Being around bears in the wild is less risky than driving in a vehicle.

The truth is that a bear would rather run away from a human than engage with them. So, if they try to avoid humans, do they do the same with cats? The short answer is yes, bears will almost always ignore or distance themselves from a cat that they might come across. But there is more to the story, so continue reading to find out!

Why Don’t Bears Usually Attack and Eat Cats?

There are multiple reasons that bears are not big threats to cats. First and foremost, cats do not usually reside in areas where bears are found unless they live near the woods or on a rural farm. Secondly, large wild cats have been known to attack bears and win, so bears may be naturally inclined to avoid felines, no matter their size. Cats are typically too fast for bears to catch up with, so they probably could not attack a cat even if they come across one. Chances are that they would run away from a cat that tried to approach them.

Why Would a Bear Attack a Cat?

The biggest reason that a bear might feel the need to attack a cat is if the cat does something that is perceived as threatening, like getting between a mother and her cubs. Trying to take control over a source of food could be another reason for a bear to attack any living creature, even a cat. The threat of danger or control over food would have to seem imminent to get a reaction out of a bear. However, the chance of your cat doing anything to enrage a bear is slim.

Would a Bear Eat a Cat That They Attack?

Bears are omnivores but they eat little meat. Most of their protein comes in the form of fish and small land mammals, like rabbits. So, they may or may not eat a cat that they attack. To them, it would simply be a source of food if they are hungry. If they have recently eaten, they may leave the cat and move on. It all depends on the specific circumstances.

What You Can Do to Enhance Your Cat’s Safety

If you are worried about your cat coming across a bear that could harm them while spending time outside, there are a few things that you can do to help protect them. Start by attaching a large bell on your cat’s collar so they will make constant noise whenever they are moving around outside. This will help ensure that a bear does not get caught off guard and react more intensely than is necessary if your cat goes near them. The noise should also help keep bears from getting too close to your cat.

If bears are commonly seen around your property, it is a good idea to keep an eye on your cat whenever they spend time outdoors. If they tend to wander off on their own, consider using a leash to ensure that you can keep tabs on them. Keep bear spray on hand just in case you come across a bear during your outings, as it will help protect you both and provide you with extra peace of mind.

Summary

Fortunately, we do not have to worry about bears attacking and eating our cats. The chance is extremely low, even when living in “bear country.” However, it is always good to know about the risks of bear attacks on cats and how to minimize those risks. Do you live near bears, or have you ever encountered one close up? If so, we would love for you to tell us about your experiences by leaving a comment.

Related Reads:

• Do Bears Attack and Eat Rabbits?
• 14 Bear Attack Statistics & Facts to Know: How Many Attacks Happen Every Year?
• 12 Canada Bear Attack Statistics & Facts to Know: How Many Attacks Happen Every Year?

Featured Image credit: Pexels from Pixabay

An angler in Texas made the catch of a lifetime when he reeled in a 283-pound alligator gar that is now poised to break two world records.

Art Weston caught the enormous fish at Sam Rayburn Reservoir in southeast Texas on September 2. The reservoir, which is located about 140 miles northeast of Houston, is known for producing very large alligator gar (Atractosteus spatula), a distinctive-looking freshwater fish with a long snout and large, pointy teeth.

Weston, a 52-year-old angler who lives in Kentucky, was fishing with local guide and boat captain Kirk Kirkland on Kirkland’s vessel, the Garship Enterprise, when the behemoth latched onto his six-pound test line, reports Fox Weather’s Chris Oberholtz.

With help from Kirkland, Weston spent 2 hours and 45 minutes trying to reel in his big catch, which left him “shaking and visibly fatigued,” as Kirkland wrote on Facebook. Kirkland got severe rope burn on his palms after lassoing the beast.

When they finally pulled the fish to shore and weighed it, the creature nearly tipped over their scale because it was so heavy.

“The scale just kept going higher and higher,” Kirkland wrote on Facebook. “I won’t lie, we both jumped up and down.”

After weighing and measuring the creature—which spanned 8 feet, 4 inches long—they released it back into the reservoir. Now, they’re waiting to hear from the International Game Fish Association (IGFA) about whether the supersized swimmer set two new world records.

They suspect the catch has broken the IGFA men’s six-pound line class record and the IGFA all-tackle record for alligator gar, but they are still awaiting official confirmation. The IGFA celebrated Weston’s catch and described the records as “pending” in a Facebook post.

Weston is no stranger to reeling in monster-sized fish: He holds 23 IGFA records and has others pending, reports the Beaumont Enterprise’s Matt Williams.

The colossal creature was likely a female, because female alligator gars can grow larger than the males, says Solomon David, an aquatic ecologist at the University of Minnesota, to Live Science’s Harry Baker.

David estimates the gargantuan fish to be between 50 and 80 years old, though he can’t say for certain without studying the creature’s ear bone, which would show growth lines akin to the rings of a tree trunk.

Scientists suspect alligator gars can live to be more than 100 years old. They develop quickly, reaching lengths of up to two feet within their first year of life. By the time they turn 20, they can be up to six feet long. From there, growth typically slows down, though it doesn’t stop altogether.

With plenty of food and lots of space to swim around, alligator gars can become enormous—but even so, fish over eight feet long are “a true rarity,” as David tells Live Science.

“If we want to continue to see large alligator gars, we need to conserve them, especially the giants,” he tells the publication. “If we continually remove the largest individuals of a population or species, we remove the genes for large growth, which can eventually result in smaller-sized individuals in a population.”

The largest recorded alligator gar ever caught weighed 327 pounds, per Field & Stream’s Steven Hill. The fish died not long after commercial fisherman Kenny Williams reeled him in at Lake Chotard in Mississippi in 2011, so Williams donated the creature’s body to the Mississippi Museum of Natural Science. He caught the fish accidentally, after it became ensnared in a net he’d put out to catch another type of fish—as a result, it didn’t count toward an IGFA record.

In May 2022, angler Payton Moore caught an estimated 300-pound alligator gar at an undisclosed location near Houston. He did not weigh the fish on a certified scale and, thus, was not eligible for a potential IGFA record, per Field & Stream’s Kris Millgate.

The current IGFA all-tackle record for alligator gar is held by Bill Valverde, who hooked a 279-pounder in Rio Grande, Texas, on December 2, 1951.

Where to find

Ramps occur in Eastern North America from Georgia to Canada. They’re easily recognized by their 1, 2, or 3 broad leaves measuring 1 to 3 1/2 inches wide and 4 to 12 inches long.

There are a couple of varieties:

Allium tricoccum var. tricoccum: These have wider leaves and red stems.

Allium tricoccum var. burdickii: Also known as narrow-leaf or white ramps.

White-stemmed narrow-leaf ramps (Allium tricoccum var. burdickii) tend to have a milder flavor than the red-stemmed variety. They also have smaller leaves (up to 1 1/2 inches wide), as well as smaller bulbs.

Ramp leaves appear from March to April and last until around mid-May to June depending on the local climate. As temperatures get warmer, the leaves will turn yellow and die.

Look for them underneath dense deciduous forest canopy in soil that’s rich with organic matter.

In general, Narrow-leaf ramps are more likely to be found in more well-drained, dryer woods, while red-stemmed ramps prefer damper soil.

That being said, it’s not uncommon to find both varieties growing side-by-side.

There are some dangerous look-alikes so be sure the plants you pick smell like onion or garlic.

Do not pick the dangerous Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis) or False hellebore (Veratrum genus) by mistake.

Again, make sure they smell like onion or garlic. If you’re unsure, let a knowledgeable forager confirm your find or just pass on picking.

It may also be helpful to consult multiple references for more positive identification.

Sustainability

Unfortunately for ramps, they’re super-trendy these days. Chefs, foodies, and other ramp-lovers flock to the mountains by the thousands for a chance to bask in their gourmet-ness.

“Ramp feeds,” known as ramp festivals now, have been taking a toll on ramp populations for years and the added pressure of their recent popularity has really put a hurting on their numbers.

The implications affect conservationists and foodies alike. Cindy and I are conservationists first and foragers second. What this means for us is that ramping is not only unsustainable, but it gets more arduous each year as we climb higher and longer to find undiscovered ramp patches.

Traditionally, the Cherokee dug, and still dig, ramps by leaving the roots. This is done by cutting off the bottom of the bulb with a knife while it’s still in the ground (more on the how-to below).

How to harvest

If you plan on digging ramps on public land, you’ll want to look into whether local regulations restrict harvest amounts, where harvesting is permitted, etc.

In West Virginia where we live, as of 2020, the Forest Service allows harvesting for personal use only – anyone can dig up to two gallons of ramps at a time. That’s about the volume of a plastic grocery bag or, according to the USFS, about 180 plants with leaves and roots.

And digging is no longer permitted in some parks due to declining ramp populations, so please be aware of local rules and conservation issues.

Here are a few things you’ll need for harvesting ramps:

• Time This one is really important. It’s way too easy to run up to the ramp patch after work with good intentions of sustainbly digging ramps. You get to the trailhead at 5:30pm and it’s 6pm by the time you’re digging ramps. The sun’s about to slip behind the mountains and you’re in a sudden hurry to get your ramps and get out of there. So you abandon your plan and jerk as many roots out of the ground as you can before running out. DON’T DO IT!

  Sustainably harvesting takes more time, so you really need to make allowance for it. Plus it’s a lot more fun to have a leisurely walk into the woods, not worrying about racing the waning light. If you can’t give yourself the time to do it, please consider taking only greens and leaving the bulbs undisturbed. You won’t need nearly as much time if you only harvest leaves!

• Sharp hunting knife Make sure it’s sharp! A dull knife will do more harm than good – you’ll end up mutilating the bulb so it’s not useable as food and not viable as a plant. You may even want to touch up the blade as you dig, since the grit of the dirt will take your edge. You’ll also want to make sure the blade is at least three or four inches so you can easily reach the root without disturbing the soil.

  If you insist on digging the root, use a hori hori knife to minimize impact.

• Backpack or shoulder bag I usually put a few plastic grocery bags in a backpack and then load a bag or two with ramps before putting them in my pack, which helps keeps the dirt out of the pack.

The most sustainable way to harvest ramps is to cut only one leaf, leaving the bulb and second leaf to continue growing. This is least impactful on the soil, the plant, and the colony as a whole.

The leaves, in my opinion are the best part, anyway, and taking only leaves is the best way to ensure the colony will remain viable.

If you insist on taking bulbs, please dig sustainably with a knife: Simply insert your knife into the dirt at an angle and slice off a third or so of the root, leaving it in the ground to re-grow. Then pull the rest of the plant out by its stems.

It will take a little practice to get a feel for where to put the knife. You can also gently pull back the dirt from around the bulb so you can see where you’re cutting. If you do this, make sure to pull back just enough dirt to expose a little bit of the bulb and re-cover the roots after cutting.

That’s all there is to digging. Please be judicious and don’t take any more than you will use.

I find that when I overzealously harvest, it makes more work for me in the long run, because some ramps will inevitably go bad before I can get to them. There’s not much more disgusting than the smell of past-their-prime ramps. And a few ramps go a long way so there’s no need to stockpile them.

Even though we practice sustainable harvest, I’m afraid the ever-inceasing demand will eclipse the slow procreation.

According to North Carolina Extension Horticultural Specialist Jeanine M. Davis, ramps can be transplanted and cultivated from seed in climates where ramps don’t normally grow. Apparently, it takes some effort to germinate seeds when climes are warmer than ideal, but it can be done.

And once a good patch is established, it requires little maintenance. Jeanine recommends the book Having Your Ramps and Eating Them Too by the “Johnny Appleseed of Ramps” for more info on cultivating ramps. Unfortunately this book is no longer in print.

We’ve been growing our own for a while. Our homestead is located in the ramp belt now, but our previous place was outside of ramp habitat. When we lived there, our planted ramps didn’t spread because conditions weren’t ideal.

They did grow, though, and as long as we continued to plant new ramps, we always had a steady supply right outside of our door.

Where to buy

If you’re lucky enough to live in an area where ramps are abundant, it’s not uncommon to see them in the grocery store when they’re in season. Where we live, they’re also common in seasonal dishes served at local restaurants.

How to store

Ramps are only in season for a month or so, but, for us, getting them is only half the problem. I usually come back from a good ramping trip with enough for us to eat fresh before they go bad with a little extra to keep for eating later (I rarely go digging more than once a season unless I come home with a particularly light harvest).

Both leaves and bulbs can be eaten and both are delicious. They’re best used fresh, but both can be put away for eating later in the year.

The easiest way to store ramp bulbs is by freezing: Simply cut off the greens, clean the dirt off the bulbs and cut off the roots (if your ramps still have roots). Then spread the bulbs out on a sheet pan or waxed paper so they are not touching and freeze. This prevents them from sticking together.

Once they’re frozen, put them in jars or plastic containers, seal tightly and put in the freezer for up to six months. You can also wrap them individually in wax paper and store frozen in sealed jars. They can also be pickled but we don’t usually bother.

The greens won’t last long fresh and deteriorate when frozen. They can be dried, but they lose a lot of their flavor. We’ve found the best way to preserve them is by making ramp compound butter (see recipe below). A close second is ramp pesto. Either can be stored in the refrigerator in the short term or frozen for use later.

For short term storage put ramps in the refrigerator as soon as possible. They should be stored uncleaned. If a refrigerator is not immediately available ramps can be kept with the bulbs submerged in a bucket of water and placed in a cool shaded area.

The leaves will start to wilt in the refrigerator after 4 days or so and in the bucket after a day or so depending on temperature.

How to cook

Ramp bulbs and leaves can be diced and used just as you would use onions, green onions, leeks, chives and garlic, but they are much more potent. They pair well with the following:

• pasta

• eggs

• chanterelle mushrooms and other wild mushrooms

• potatoes

• stir fried and raw greens

• pork

Some folks like to eat ramps raw. I like a little chopped up in a salad, but ramps as a cooked vegetable are a lot more fun. My favorite way to eat them is mixed into venison burgers or in ramp and white cheddar soup. And it’s hard to beat ramps and eggs for breakfast.

A few years back, Cindy came across this sweet little book from West Virginia called Mom & Ramps Forever! by Barbara Beury McCallum. There’s some fun anecdotal history on ramps in there. It’s also a collection of old timey recipes and stand-bys like pickled ramps and ramp champ – mashed potatoes with ramps. Here’s one of the recipes… quick and easy and sounds tasty:

Ramps With Watercress

“Fry some bacon until crisp, remove the bacon then drain off part of the bacon drippings. Put washed cress into the pan with the water that clings to it. Cook covered, until tender. Garnish with crumpled bacon, finely chopped ramps, and some chopped hard cooked eggs.”

Unfortunately, Mom & Ramps Forever! is out of print, but it’s a nice one for the collection if you can find it.