As you take your seat next to the crackling campfire at elk camp, you look up as the sparks flutter into the night sky. The evening is brisk, and you are looking forward to the hot coffee that is starting to boil in the blue enamel kettle on the fire.

Your hunting buddies soon join you after a long day of stalking and regale their tales of the events that transpired. Near misses, huge bull elk sightings, and jokes about who are the worst shooters in the group pass the time as you soak in the atmosphere and scent of the forest that surrounds you.

As the evening progresses, the discussion turns towards which hunting cartridge is ideal for big game hunting in North America.

When it comes to long-distance big game hunting, the 30-06 Springfield and 300 Winchester Magnum are ever-present in the discussion around the campfire or internet hunting forums.

Many claim that the high muzzle velocity, flatter trajectory, and longer effective range make the 300 Win Mag the obvious choice. However, some contest that the 30-06 is more than sufficient for any large game, and the added recoil and hunting rifle weight of the 300 Win Mag are not needed.

But which of these 30-caliber cartridges is ideal for your next hunt?

The Difference Between .30-06 vs .300 Win Mag: Two 30-Caliber Giants

The 30-06 Springfield and the .300 Win Mag are two extremely capable long-range shooting cartridges that will serve you well when the moment arises. Both hunting cartridges fire the 30 caliber bullets accurately and it’s unlikely that we will be able to determine a winner per se.

The 300 Winchester Magnum was designed as a long-distance magnum cartridge to fire heavier bullets with extreme precision at a high effective range like that of the 6.5 Creedmoor.

The 30-06 Springfield was designed as a military cartridge that found amazing success in the realm of big game hunting. With its spectacular terminal ballistics, the 30-06 has claimed every large game animal on the North American continent and has been the hunting rifle chambering of choice for no less than 3 generations.

Each hunting cartridge has its advantages and disadvantages, and you need to be aware of these when choosing the caliber of your next target shooting or hunting rifle.

Cartridge Specs

Both the 300 Win Mag and the 30-06 fire the same diameter bullet, 0.308”. This means that they can typically fire the same 30 caliber bullets, so it makes reloading simpler for both calibers.

The first striking difference that you’ll see when comparing the .300 Win Mag and the 30-06 is the difference in case length. The 300 Win Mag is a full 0.12” longer than the 30-06 and you can easily see this when comparing them side by side. However, once loaded, both the 30-06 ammo and the .300 Win Mag will have the same overall case length.

The overall design of the 300 Win Mag also lends itself to increased case capacity. The .300 Win Mag has over 35% more case capacity than the 30-06, allowing for larger powder charges and higher velocity that lends itself to long-range shooting.

As far as pressure, the .300 Win Mag is capable of handling over 3,000 psi more pressure than the 30-06. But all of that increased case capacity and powder charge come at a price, recoil, and barrel life.

Recoil

There’s no denying that the recoil plays a key part in accuracy, and neither the .300 Win Mag nor the 30-06 is a slouch when it comes to recoil.

Recoil also plays a part in follow-up shots, as you can get your sights back on target faster with a lower recoiling rifle.

As I’m sure you have guessed, the 300 Win Mag has higher felt recoil than the 30-06. Assuming a 7 lb rifle for both calibers, the .300 Win Mag has approximately 35 ft-lbs of recoil, while the 30-06 is slapping your shoulder with 23 ft-lbs. That’s a good 12 ft-lbs less recoil for the 30-06, and that’s not nothing.

However, there is another factor that we need to consider, and that’s rifle weight. Often a .300 Win Mag will garner a larger rifle. Although this might be uncomfortable to backpack through the woods all day, a heavier rifle will reduce the felt recoil a shooter has to endure as the rifle soaks up some of the recoil itself.

With a rifle weighing 9 lbs, the felt recoil for .300 Win Mag will come down to about 27 ft-lbs of shoulder punishment.

Although this is a lot more manageable, you still must carry a 9-pound rifle through the woods all day, and that can wear on your endurance as well. In the end, it’s a trade-off, a heavier rifle recoils less but is more uncomfortable to carry while a lighter rifle will recoil more but be more comfortable to carry through the woods.

Many hunters will just say you need to “man up” because shooting the more powerful .300 Win Mag is worth it. But is it?

When shooting at longer ranges, consistency is key. Although the flat shooting trajectory of the 300 Win Mag is more favorable for long-range shots, the added recoil can add a level of difficulty focusing on the fundamentals of shooting, particularly a clean trigger squeeze.

For younger shooters, there is no question, the 30-06 with less recoil is the obvious choice. For more seasoned hunters and shooters, you need to be honest with yourself about your marksmanship skills and ability to handle the recoil.

Because a little trigger jerk at 400 yards will send that 220 gr Hornady ELD-X under the belly of that trophy mule deer. Or worse, you wound the poor animal with a shot that misses all the vitals entirely.

The simple truth is that it is easier to be more accurate with a 30-06 as it has less recoil, and you can practice with it more.

Barrel Life

This is another category that favors the 30-06 Springfield as the .300 Win Mag is notoriously hard on barrels. This is due to the larger powder charge that the cavernous case capacity of the 300 Win Mag allows.

Sure, you can send those 30 caliber bullets screaming out of the barrel at ridiculously high velocity, decidedly higher velocity than the 30-06. But those magnum powder charges are going to accelerate your barrel wear, especially in the throat where the rifling begins.

Traditional wisdom states that a 30-06 barrel is good for 3,000 to 4,000 rounds while the .300 Win Mag barrel will maintain peak accuracy for 2,500 to 3,000 rounds.

For most hunters, it is unlikely that they will ever wear out a 300 Winchester Magnum barrel.

However, for long-range shooting competitors, it is not uncommon to go through a lot of rounds in a practice session. These shooters demand the pinnacle of accuracy from their handloads and barrels, therefore barrel life is much more important for competitive shooters as opposed to hunters.

Accuracy

Accuracy is a tricky category to empirically analyze as there are factors that cannot be calculated. The rifle system being used, barrel life, consistency of ammo, the skill of the shooter, and environmental conditions all play a part in accuracy.

All things being equal, both the .300 Win Mag and the 30-06 are extremely accurate within their effective ranges and sub-MOA accuracy is achievable with match-grade ammo, proper optics, and proper execution of the fundamentals of marksmanship.

As the .300 Win Mag has a flatter trajectory, this gives it a slight edge in accuracy over the 30-06 as a shooter will need to make fewer adjustments to account for bullet drop.

Furthermore, the Army selected the 300 Win Mag as its ammo for their new Enhanced Sniper Rifle in 2010 (though the 6.5 Creedmoor is turning some heads at USSOCOM).

Effective range also plays a part in accuracy, as once a bullet goes subsonic, accuracy goes out the window.

The .300 Win Mag is rated out to a maximum effective range of 1,300 yards while the 30-06 starts going subsonic right around the 1,000-yard marker. Under 800 yards, with all things being equal, I doubt many shooters could detect any differences in accuracy. Over 800 yards it will become more apparent as the 30-06 starts to hemorrhage fps quickly and the 300 Win Mag is still trucking along.

For shots over 800 yards, the 300 Win Mag will be the better option. However, for shots within ethical hunting ranges and below 800 yards, accuracy should be equal for these two hunting cartridges.

Trajectory

Trajectory is how we quantify a bullet’s flight path to its target measured in inches of bullet drop.

For the purpose of discussion, we will look at the 180 grain bullet that both cartridges fire.

Short-range trajectory for the 300 Win Mag and 30-06 are fairly close, at -18” and -27” respectively. Nine inches is not insignificant, but the difference between these two cartridges really shows when you hit the 1000-yard line.

At 1,000 yards, the 30-06 has dropped on average -397” while the 300 Win Mag has only dropped -295”. That’s 8.5 feet difference between the two cartridges.

This is one of the main reasons that the 30-06 is not used in long-range target shooting competitions and the 300 Win Mag is often seen on the 1,000-yard firing line.

The .300 Win Mag was specifically designed to be a high velocity, flat shooting round similar to the 6.5 Creedmoor and it excels at this role. There’s no denying that for longer ranges, the .300 Win Mag is the superior choice.

Effective Range

This is another category where the .300 Win Mag runs away with the victory.

As mentioned earlier, the 300 Winchester Magnum can maintain supersonic bullet speeds out to 1,300 yards, with some match grade loads reaching out to 1,400 and even 1,500 yards.

The 30-06 Springfield will start to go subsonic right around the 1,000-yard line and accuracy will drop off significantly.

The .300 Win Mag has cornered the market in terms of effective range.

Ballistic Coefficient

When I start talking about ballistic coefficient (BC) to my shooting buddies, I often get a “deer in headlights” look.

In short, the ballistic coefficient for a given bullet is a measure of how well it resists wind and air resistance. It’s a numeric representation of how aerodynamic a bullet is, a high BC is preferred and means the bullet will buck the wind easier.

The way a bullet’s ballistic coefficient is calculated is a bit complicated, so we won’t cover that today as I don’t want your eyes to glaze over!

Generally, a heavier bullet will have a higher BC.

As the 300 Win Mag and the 30-06 Springfield fire the same bullet diameter, there is not a lot of difference in ballistic coefficients between the two cartridges.

The .300 Win Mag does pull away a little when you start to factor in the heavier 190+ grain loadings, but it is not a significant difference.

If we look at this in a hunting context, I doubt that any hunters will be able to detect a difference in wind drift under 300 yards, which is where the majority of shots will occur.

Therefore, there is not a major difference between these two rounds in terms of ballistic coefficient as most offerings stick between the 0.45-0.5 range, which is an exceptional BC.

There are a few 30 caliber bullets that break the 0.6 BC, which would be ideal for long-range target shooting for the 300 Win Mag. Those bullets would be the Nosler Trophy Grade AccuBond Long Range 190 gr (0.64 BC) and the Barnes Precision Match OTM 220 gr (0.611 BC).

Sectional Density

Sectional Density (SD) is the measure of how well a bullet penetrates a target. This is extremely important when hunting big game, as you need a bullet that can punch through thick hide, bone, and sinew.

Sectional density is calculated by comparing the bullet weight and the bullet diameter, the higher the number the more effective it will be at penetrating a target. The higher the SD the deeper the bullet will penetrate the target.

Just like for ballistic coefficient, there is not much difference between the 30-06 and the .300 Win Mag as they fire the same .308” diameter projectiles, with a slight advantage for the heavier 300 Win Mag loadings.

Another small advantage is the higher velocity that the 300 Win Mag can achieve with its higher case capacity. This added velocity over the 30-06 Springfield will allow the .300 Win Mag to penetrate just a bit deeper.

However, both the 30-06 Springfield and the 300 Winchester Magnum will give you devastating penetration that will punch through the toughest bone and sinew on any large game that dares to end up in front of your crosshairs.

The average sectional density for .300 Win Mag is approximately 0.284 vs 0.26 for the 30-06.

Hunting

Now we come to the big question, is the 300 Win Mag or 30-06 better for hunting?

And I’m going to go out on a limb here and state that the 30-06 Springfield is the ideal hunting round between the two.

Now, before all my 300 Win Mag shooters get up in arms, let me present my case.

The biggest selling point on the .300 Win Mag that I read constantly in hunting forums online is that has a flatter trajectory and longer effective range. And those are both true.

On those same forums, I see hunters justifying their purchase that they “might need to shoot out to 1,000 yards at some point…”

I have a question, have any of those forum posters actually practiced 1,000-yard shots?

I’m not talking about using reduced-sized targets to simulate 1,000 yards at 100 yards, I’m talking about an actual 1,000-yard shot.

The calculations and skills that are required to make a shot this long require years of practice and specialized training.

There are a ridiculous number of factors to consider in taking a shot this long: changes in wind direction along the flight path, bullet drop, relative humidity, temperature, the Coriolis Effect, bullet travel time, the curvature of the Earth, even the type of powder you used in your handloads.

Oh, and you actually need a shooting range that can accommodate 1,000-yard shots. In my home state of Indiana, there is exactly ONE range that allows shooters to go out to this distance and they have extremely stringent marksmanship requirements that you must meet before you can even set foot on the 1,000-yard range.

If these forum posters think they can pull off even an 800-yard shot without practicing, well I say, “Good luck to you sir!” Because you’re going to need it!

The simple fact is this, most hunters do not have the equipment, skills, time, or money to develop the ability to shoot this far. And you know what? That’s OK!

If you are an ethical hunter (which if you have read this far, I know you are), you should not even be considering taking a shot on any game animal at those distances because the probability that you wound the animal is significantly higher (if you hit them at all).

An ethical hunter will try to close the distance to a range they are comfortable taking the shot or passing on the animal altogether. Therefore, the internet group reasoning for purchasing a 300 Win Mag because of its ability to shoot out to 1,000 yards is null and void in terms of hunting.

In my experience, ethical hunting shot distances are 500 yards or less with 300 yards being the average maximum distance most hunters are comfortable with. Shot placement is always the most important thing to ethically harvesting an animal, and the closer you are the better your shot placement will be.

Bearing that in mind, what advantage does the 300 Win Mag offer over the 30-06 Springfield at 300-500 yards? The answer is not much.

Both hunting cartridges will have more than enough muzzle energy to take down a bull elk (1,000+ ft-lbs) at these distances, which means they are more than enough for Whitetail and Mule Deer as well.

Therefore, it makes logical sense that the better option is the cartridge that has less recoil (better shot placement), allows for faster follow-up shots, and is generally less expensive.

Hence my reasoning for selecting the 30-06 Springfield as the superior choice for hunting medium to large game animals across North America.

Neither cartridge is recommended for varmint hunting as they are simply too much bullet for the job. For something like this, I’d recommend using the cheaper and softer shooting 223 Rem or perhaps a 22-250.

For deer to black bear, the 30-06 loaded with quality hunting ammo like a Nosler Partition will serve you well.

Ammo Price and Availability

In terms of ammo availability and price, without question, the 30-06 is the superior choice.

As the 30-06 has been in service for well over 100 years now, the amount of work that has been done on the cartridge is extensive. Advancements in bullet technology and powders have come a long way to make the 30-06 an effective large game slaying cartridge.

Virtually every ammo manufacturer has an offering in 30-06, but the same cannot be said for .300 Win Mag.

The 300 Winchester Magnum was not released until 1963, and although it has gained a lot of popularity, not as many ammo options are available for this caliber.

You still have plenty to choose from, but overall, there are fewer options for .300 Win Mag.

As for price, cheap full metal jacket (FMJ) ammo can be had for about $1.50/round for 30-06 compared to $2/round for 300 Win Mag.

That might not sound like a huge difference, but when you start looking at premium hunting ammo from Hornady, Nosler, Barnes, Norma, or Federal, the price jumps up significantly. Premium hunting ammo for 30-06 will run you anywhere between $2-3/round. In contrast, you should expect to pay no less than $3 and up per round for the likes of Federal Premium 300 Win Mag ammo, Hornady Superformance, or Barnes VOR-TX.

With 30-06, you can practice with your hunting rifle more which means you will be better prepared when hunting season comes around.

Rifle Price and Availability

Rifles for both the 30-06 and 300 Win Mag are not in short supply.

Every major rifle manufacturer will have an offering in both cartridges.

Some popular bolt action rifle options are:

• Remington 700
• Savage 110
• Browning A-Bolt
• Ruger American
• Winchester Model 70
• Tikka T3

And although you will not lack options in either caliber, there will simply be more in 30-06 as it has been a military caliber. There are many surplus options for 30-06, like the 1903 Springfield and M1 Garand, that are simply not available for 300 Win Mag.

It was only within the last 12 years that the 300 Win Mag was adopted as a military round, and as such there are no surplus rifles available. And when there are more rifle options available, this means that the price will be lower.

In general, a rifle chambered in 30-06 will be a little cheaper than one chambered in .300 Win Mag.

Reloading

As the .300 Win Mag and the 30-06 shoot the same .308” diameter bullet, it is nothing short of a reloader’s dream as you can stock up on one bullet type for both calibers.

Furthermore, if you want to shoot long-range (and have the location to do so), handloading is the best way to tighten up your groups and squeeze every fps of muzzle velocity out of either cartridge (Warning: never load over the maximum charge listed in your reloading manual!)

The widespread success of the 30-06 (and 308 Winchester) means that you have a wide variety of different bullet weights, bullet profiles, and powders to choose from to create your ideal reload.

Reloading for both the 30-06 and .300 Win Mag is a breeze and you should not worry about any lack of components or reloading dies as these are both extremely popular cartridges for handloading.

.300 Win Mag vs .30-06: Ballistics

Below are the ballistics tables for both .300 Win Mag and .30-06 Springfield comparing multiple popular loadings for each cartridge. Here you can see how each cartridge stacks up against the other, and the differences in the ballistics are impressive.

The 300 Win Mag has a clear advantage over the 30-06 in terms of muzzle velocity and muzzle energy as we have alluded to earlier in the article.

When looking at the lighter bullet options for the .300 Win Mag, you’ll note that the 150 grain 300 Win Mag has a higher muzzle velocity than the 55 grain .223 Rem! (3,400 fps vs 3,200 fps, respectively)

Generally, the 30-06 Springfield is going to be about 800 fps slower at the muzzle than the 300 Win Mag. The same can also be said for muzzle energy as the .300 Win Mag will have about 500+ more ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle compared to the 30-06. There’s no denying that the 300 Win Mag is a high velocity, hard-hitting round!

.300 Win Magnum Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

.30-06 Springfield Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

300 Win Mag: Joining the Magnum Lineage – Go Big or Stay Home

Let’s call a spade a spade my fellow shooters, here in North America we like our Magnum cartridges!

From Dirty Harry and his .44 Magnum Smith and Wesson handgun to big game hunters in the forests of Northern Canada, many shooters like that extra stopping power that magnum cartridges bring to the table.

And the 300 Winchester Magnum steps into the Magnum Lineage like any other magnum cartridge on the market…with a deafening BANG!

Before the 300 Winchester Magnum exploded onto the shooting scene in 1963, there were several other 30-caliber options that we would classify as Magnum ammo by today’s standards.

The most prominent of these was the 300 H&H Magnum that had been on the market since 1925. However, the 300 H&H Magnum could not fit into a standard action Mauser or Springfield receiver and required a custom Magnum action, which severely handicapped its acceptance in the shooting community.

The next attempt at a magnum rifle cartridge was attempted by Roy Weatherby with the 270 Weatherby Magnum in 1943 and the 300 Weatherby Magnum in 1944.

300 Win Mag: Genesis of the Quintessential Big Game Hunting Cartridge

In 1958, Winchester figured they should probably get in on the magnum craze and introduced 3 new cartridges to their line: the 264 Winchester Magnum, the 338 Winchester Magnum, and the 458 Winchester Magnum.

Notice any glaring omission from that list? There’s no 30-caliber option!

Wildcatters (hand loaders who take it upon themselves to develop new cartridges) quickly jumped on this glaring hole in the Winchester line and developed the 30-338 Winchester. Norma Precision also took the opportunity to get in on the action and developed the 308 Norma Magnum in 1960.

It was at this point that Winchester figured that maybe they might do well by introducing a 30-caliber magnum rifle cartridge offering. And in 1963, Winchester introduced the 300 Win Mag in its long-action Winchester Model 70 bolt action rifle.

Remington quickly followed suit, introducing a 300 Win Mag offering in its popular Rem 700 bolt action rife. Since then, the 300 Winchester Magnum has quickly become one of the most successful magnum rifle cartridges on the market today.

The 300 Winchester Magnum was developed from the belted 375 H&H Magnum cartridge and sports a whopping case capacity of 91.5 gr of water and a max pressure of 64,000 psi based on SAAMI specifications.

This voluminous case capacity allows the 300 Win Mag to pack in the powder and push the .308” diameter bullet to its limits.

At the muzzle, a 150 grain bullet is screaming downrange at about 3300 fps with a back-breaking 3600 ft-lbs of energy. That is some serious power! Standard loadings for the 300 Win Mag range between bullet weights of 165 and 220 gr.

Many shooters believe that the belt around the case head is required to contain the “case-splitting” pressure that the 300 Win Mag must exude. However, this is a common misconception.

Based on the case design, the belted cartridge is superfluous. However, Winchester retained the design as a marketing strategy to link the cartridge to its heavy-hitting predecessor, the 375 H&H Magnum.

The strategy was wildly successful as the 300 Winchester Magnum has become one of the most popular magnum cartridges on the market, surpassing the 300 WSM, 7mm Rem Mag, and 270 Weatherby Magnum in popularity.

A Brief History of the 30-06 Springfield: America’s Beloved Rifle Cartridge

America’s love affair with 30 caliber rifle rounds began back in the Wild West with the introduction of the 30-30 Winchester. Later, the U.S. Army developed the 30-40 Krag to be its smokeless powder replacement for the .45-70 Government.

Around 1901, the U.S. Military started developing a new cartridge to replace the 30-40 Krag. The American Expeditionary Forces were very familiar with the effectiveness of the 7mm Mauser cartridge, suffering staggering losses at the hands of the 1893 Mauser at the Battle of Santiago during the Spanish-American War.

It was clear that the 30-40 Krag was an inferior design compared to the Spanish Mausers and the military did not want to fall behind with advancements in bolt action rifle and cartridge technology.

At the time, heavier bullet weights were thought to be the superior ballistic choice. Therefore, the initial design submitted in 1903 used the same 220-grain round-nose bullets fired by the 30-40 Krag.

The 30-03 Springfield was patterned after the famous 7x57mm Mauser cartridge, sharing identical case head dimensions.

However, it didn’t take long for the American generals to take note that multiple European nations were favoring higher velocity, Spitzer (pointed) projectiles in their new bolt action rifles.

Not wanting to get left behind, the U.S. Military was quick to adopt a similar design. In 1906, the new cartridge that fired a 150-grain Spitzer flat-based bullet was submitted and accepted. The original design for 30-06 Springfield achieved a muzzle velocity of 2,700 fps, packed 2,429 ft-lbs of muzzle energy, and a maximum pressure of 60,200 psi (SAAMI specs).

And thus the 30-06 Springfield was born. The “30” designates the bullet caliber and the “06” (pronounced: aught six) designates the year of its adoption.

Although the 30-06 initially gained popularity with the Army’s new bolt action rifle, the 1903 Springfield (which looked surprisingly similar to a Mauser…coincidence I’m sure), it truly became World Famous with the introduction of the semi-auto M1 Garand during World War II.

The 30-06 Springfield was the ammo carried by our soldiers who fought in the trenches on the Western Front in World War I, stormed the beaches of Normandy in WWII, assaulted the 38th Parallel in Korea, and saw limited use in the jungles of Vietnam.

Not only has the 30-06 seen massive success on the battlefield, but it has also seen immense commercial success in the civilian market. Big game hunters loved the amazing terminal ballistics and long-range that the 30-06 offered while having a recoil impulse that is not punishing to the shoulder.

Since its introduction to the civilian market, the 30-06 has been the de facto hunting cartridge that all other hunting caliber cartridges are measured against. The most popular loadings for 30-06 range between 150 and 180 gr bullet weights with the 180 grain bullet being the most popular with big game hunters. However, specialty ammo can go as low as 110-grain bullets and as high as 220 grain projectiles.

The 30-06 Springfield is incredibly versatile, allowing hunters to customize their loads depending on the game animals they are stalking. Lighter bullet weights like the 150 and 165 gr Nosler Partition or Accubond can be utilized for whitetail or mule deer, while you should have good luck with the 200 gr Barnes TSX when you have a vital shot lined up on that trophy elk in your crosshairs.

The 30-06 is truly a rifle cartridge of American legend and has survived the test of time, as it is still one of the most popular hunting rounds in the world over 100 years later. But does the 300 Winchester Magnum simply outclass the tried and true 30-06? Let’s compare these two spectacular long-range cartridges.

Final Thoughts on .300 Win Mag vs .30-06 Springfield

The .300 Win Mag was developed to be an incredibly accurate long-range rifle cartridge capable of shooting past 1,000 yards. And it does this extremely well.

The 30-06 Springfield was battle-tested on the beaches of Normandy and has proven to be a capable hunting cartridge in the forests across North America.

On paper, the 300 Win Mag has superior ballistics in terms of muzzle velocity, muzzle energy, trajectory, effective range, and ballistic coefficient. However, all these benefits are at the cost of punishing recoil and reduced barrel life.

But with all these advantages, should you go out and sell the Remington 700 or Browning A-Bolt chambered in 30-06 that you inherited from your grandfather and get a 300 Win Mag? Absolutely not!

The 30-06 is a versatile hunting cartridge that has withstood the test of time, claiming every large game animal from the Great Plains to the Rocky Mountains. Less recoil and faster follow-up shots allow the 30-06 to be just as potent as the 300 Win Mag within 500 yards and you should never feel under-gunned when you bring your 30-06 into the woods.

But if you can take the recoil and you take comfort in knowing you are bringing a high velocity, flat shooting cartridge to bear on that Whitetail in your sights, the 300 Win Mag won’t let you down so long as your shot placement is on point.

Hunting season is fast approaching, it’s time to get out to the range and practice with your favorite bolt action rifle and get ready. Your trophy deer or elk is waiting for you, show him what a 30-06 or a .300 Win Mag can do!

Depending upon your viewpoint, the wild hog ranks as high as a “beast of venery” … which equaled pursuit of the esteemed red stag by Medieval royalty … to loathed, destructive, costly vermin to be shot on sight and killed by any means possible.

The wild boar remains revered as a top game animal in its original range in Europe and western Asia. It was even imported as a game animal to Australia and to the British Isles. In places like Germany, Hungary, and Poland, hunts for wild boar are conducted by highly respected outfitters with tradition and pageantry to this day. Yet, in much of their North American range, what we know as wild hogs are destructive, prolific nuisance animals. Texas is the epicenter of wild hog overpopulation with increasing tremors widening out across much of the United States and California. The agricultural damage from feral hogs in Texas alone is estimated at more than $50 million each year, with another $7 million spent annually by private landowners in the Lone Star State attempting to control hogs and fix the damage they cause. Across the United States it’s estimated that feral hogs cause more than $1 billion in negative economic impact. Feral hog populations are rapidly increasing and causing problems as far north as Pennsylvania and New York.

This diversity of views of the boar or hog creates an even larger variety of hunting opportunities that are rapidly moving hog hunting up many hunters’ … and outfitters’ … hit parade. The fact that the meat from wild hogs is bountiful and delicious when properly cared for is a bonus that further escalates the popularity of hog hunting wherever they are found.

As more hunters take an interest in pursuing wild boar, more quality outfitters are ramping up their operations to meet the hunting need. OutfittersRating.com is the place to search out highly-rated wild boar and feral hog hunting outfitters and guides.

Wild Boar / Feral Hog Facts

The big question is, “What is the difference between a wild boar and a feral hog?”

The right answer is, “Very little.”

The real Eurasian Pig, often called a “Russian Boar,” is the original hog. It was from these wild lines that pigs were domesticated some 10,000 years ago. The first hogs in North America were brought to Florida in 1539 with the Spaniards. There were no hogs of any kind in North America prior to that introduction. (The javelina or collared peccary of the U.S. desert southwest and Mexico is not a true swine. It is a species unto itself.) Naturally, it wasn’t long until some of these domestic pigs escaped and established themselves as the original wild boar populations in the Americas.

Over the following centuries, especially the 19th and 20th, some true Eurasian Wild Boar were brought into the U.S. at various times by hunting preserves and private landowners to offer for hunting and to revive the “look” of Eurasian boar in their huntable feral hog herds. However, in North America today, all free ranging wild hogs are either generations of domestic pigs reverted to the wild or at most feral hogs hybridized with escaped Eurasian boar.

After only a generation or two in the wild, domestic hogs regain many traits of their ancestors including longer hair and protruding tusks. This is why it is possible to see wild boar in North America in nearly any color and spot pattern common to domestic hogs as well as animals that look very “Russian.” The true Eurasian Wild Boar has longer straight hair and is uniformly colored in dark brown trending toward black.

In feral hogs in North America, average weights vary between 75 and 250 pounds at maturity. Hunters and trappers occasionally take 300 pounders or slightly bigger pigs in optimal habitat conditions. Feral hogs of 500 pounds or more sometimes make the front page of local newspapers, but they are exceedingly rare.

Eurasian boar in their home ranges average between 100-200 pounds at maturity, though seem to vary nearly as widely in size as their North American cousins. Generally speaking, they are larger-bodied the farther they are from the equator in either direction. This is a common trait among animals that live over a great north/south range. Consider the white-tailed deer. In the northern hemisphere southern subspecies are smaller-bodied and northern subspecies are larger. Among zoologists it’s called Bergmann’s Rule.

Hog populations can grow so rapidly that there’s an urban legend type belief among some that “they are born pregnant.” That’s not the case, but they are among the most prolific animals on the face of the earth. Sows average 1.5 litters per year … and since that’s an average it means some have even more! Average litter size is six piglets. Sows generally have their first litter at just over a year of age, but they can be sexually mature at six to eight months of age or even less. Because of their proclivity for proliferation, some studies in Texas have shown that the huge population there (estimated at nearly 3 million feral hogs) could double in just more than five years!

Eurasian Wild Boar populations are also growing in much of their original and reestablished range. In Germany, for example, there are reports that average litters are getting bigger and that the animals are far more common in suburban and even urban environments. Large and growing populations are also found in Australia, New Zealand, and South America.

Wild boar and feral hogs are opportunistic omnivores which is a fancy way of saying they’ll eat about anything they can find when they can find it, including carrion. It’s estimated that, in general, about 80 percent of their diet is plant material and 20 percent is animal matter. The animal matter can be anything they can catch, corner or find dead.

Feral hogs and wild boar have a superbly developed sense of smell which can detect preferred food sources even several feet below the ground. Their sense of smell is also their Number One defense against predators including human hunters. They can also hear and interpret sound well, so quiet stalking is essential. Their least developed sense is sight, so it’s possible to get away with some movement in stalking hogs … sometimes.

Wild Boar and Feral Hog Hunting

Particularly in Europe, the wild boar remains highly regarded as a game animal. A large boar is considered a top trophy among traditional hunters. Hunts in countries like Germany, France, Hungary, and more are conducted with great pomp, circumstance, and reverence to the game. Most of the hunting is done in large, communal driven hunts in which beaters are employed in the effort to push the boar past the waiting guns. Hunters are encouraged to shoot as many boar as possible as the harvest is shared or sold in the community. In this type of hunting, shots are commonly taken at animals on the move.

The other traditional European type of boar hunting is to wait in elevated stands for the animals to travel established trails to feeding areas. Much of this hunting is done on properties managed to maximize production of game, especially boar. Frequently these are multi-species hunts in which the hunter may also have the opportunity to take anything from boar, stags, and roe deer to European hare. It was this type of hunting that spawned the drilling style of combination rifles/shotguns.

Hunting hogs in North America these days is a comparative free-for-all! Hogs are hunted by baiting, chasing with hounds, stand-sitting, spot-and-stalk, incidental to other game, spot-lighting, and, now, even by gunning from helicopters. Most states have liberalized or even eliminated seasons and bag limits on feral hogs. A great benefit of this is freedom to hunt hogs when other game seasons are closed and to pursue them with hunting tools of your choice including rifles, handguns, muzzleloaders, shotgun slugs, bows, crossbows, etc. … even air guns, which are gaining popularity as a challenging, close-range, one-shot, hog hunting tool.

Pursued as much as they are by humans these days, feral hogs have adapted by becoming extremely wary and nocturnal. Combined with their incredible sense of smell, this wariness makes the lowly feral hog a highly challenging and rewarding game animal.

Additionally, hogs are tough, tenacious animals. Both original wild boar and boars from feral lines of a couple generations or older have a thick, cartilaginous shield beneath their hide covering approximately the front third of their bodies. This is an evolutionary defense developed to shield the boar’s vitals from the vicious tusks of other boars during their frequent fights for mates. Yet it works pretty well against bullets and arrows, too. Most rifle bullets will easily penetrate the shield on one side and reach the vitals, but frequently will not exit through the offside shield. This can be a problem if the boar does not drop on the spot, because there will be little to no blood trail to aid in recovery. It’s essential that bow hunters wait for a proper quartering away shot to slip the arrow behind the back edge of the shield and forward into the vitals. A classic broadside shot will usually see the arrow stopped short of the vitals by the thick shield.

Though wild boar and feral hogs are conditioned to avoid humans, they will fight when cornered and their tusks are razor sharp. They can inflict serious injuries to dogs that have them bayed and/or human hunters who get too close. However, for some hunters that danger is part of the rush of hunting feral hogs. One increasingly common hunting method is for a dog or dogs to bay the hog. When the human hunters arrive one gets into position behind the hog waiting for the opportunity to grab the boar’s hind legs while the dogs keep the tusks trained on themselves. By getting the hogs’ hind legs off the ground – wheel barrow style – the hunter can safely control the animal. Then a hunting partner either finishes off the hog with a large knife or, sometimes, castrates the animal for release. This, obviously, prevents the boar from reproducing and allows it to grow larger than an intact boar and with much finer quality meat for harvest later.

Another hunting method recently legalized in Texas is called heli-hogging. It is locating and shooting hogs from an open-door helicopter. Combined with the exponentially growing interest in AR platform types of rifles, heli-hogging’s introduction has seen an explosion of interest with well-equipped outfitters enjoying waiting lists for hunts that are months, even years long.

Foxes and coyotes are widely distributed throughout North America. Interactions between these species are common, but the two mostly ignore each other in the wild.

However, a carcass can easily change the social dynamics and turn these animals from tolerant towards each other to aggressive.

Coyotes are about twice as large in size and three times heavier than foxes. They are also faster, reaching speeds up to 43 miles per hour vs. 30 miles per hour for red foxes. Foxes have a bite force of around 307 PSI, whereas coyotes bite with a strength of 727 PSI. In a one-on-one fight, the fox wouldn’t stand a chance.

The table below shows a quick comparison between coyote vs. fox*:

*Data in the table was sourced from research papers, scientific journals, magazines, and other official sources. For comparison purposes, we considered the physical, behavioral, and strength factors of red foxes, which are the most common fox species in North America. Strength facts and characteristics may vary for gray or arctic foxes.

Strike forces were calculated by multiplying the top speed for each species by the top weight mentioned in the table.

14 Differences Between Fox Vs. Coyote

1. Classification

Foxes and coyotes belong to the same family. However, they are rather distant relatives.

While they are both Canidae, red foxes belong to the genus Vulpes (true foxes) and Vulpes vulpes species. They are further divided into 45 subspecies distributed all over the world, with the exception of some territories such as Tasmania.

Coyotes are members of the genus Canis, the same as domestic dogs, wolves, and dingoes. The species – Canis latrans – is divided into at least 19 subspecies which are all distributed across Northern and Central America.

Both red foxes and coyotes are top carnivores in some ecosystems. In shared habitats, coyotes don’t actively hunt or eat foxes but they do have the potential to kill them.

2. Size

Body Length

The most visible difference between red foxes and coyotes – fur color aside – is the size. Foxes are about two times smaller than coyotes, even though larger fox males can grow larger than coyote females.

On average, red foxes reach body lengths between 1.8 and 2.8 feet. Coyotes grow between 2.6 and 3 feet in length. However, some eastern coyote males can be larger, with lengths reaching 4.5 feet in some cases.

If estimating the size could be tricky from afar, the coat color can help tell whether the animal is a fox or coyote.

Red foxes have a reddish brown coat darker on the legs and tail and with white undersides. Coyotes’ predominant color is light gray and red interspersed with black and white. The legs and undersides are whitish.

Both animals have bushy tails, but the coyote tail is mostly dark gray in color whereas a red fox’s tail is a dark reddish brown.

Height

Another crucial difference between coyotes and foxes is their height – coyotes are about eight inches taller than foxes.

On average, they reach a shoulder height of 24 inches. Red foxes, on the other hand, rarely exceed 16 inches in height.

The height difference, together with the length and fur color, can help tell the difference between the two species when spotting them in the wild.

3. Skull Size (Length)

Foxes and coyotes belong to the same family, and their skulls are very similar in shape. The most noticeable difference is the size.

Coyote skulls are about two inches longer than fox skulls. Specifically, coyote skulls are about eight inches long, whereas fox skulls are about six inches long.

The skulls of both animals have an elongated shape with a large braincase and elongated snouts.

The dental formula is also identical. Both coyotes and red foxes have 40 teeth in total, 20 on the upper jaw and 20 on the lower one.

Their dental formula is I.C.P.M (incisors, canines, premolars, and molars) 3.1.4.2/3.1.4.2 for each side of their jaws.

4. Scat Size

Another similarity between foxes and coyotes is the shape and overall appearance of their droppings.

Both species have dark brown scat, more or less cylindrical, and that mainly contains fur, tiny bones, feathers, seeds, and berries.

Foxes and coyotes living in urban areas may have lighter-colored droppings that can contain kitchen scrap traces.

Coyote scat can vary in length from about four to seven inches and is about 0.5 to 1-inch thick. Red fox scat is about two to three inches long and up to 0.5 inches thick.

4. Weight

Weight is an important asset in the animal world. The heavier an animal is, the greater the strike force it can generate.

And even if most animals use their bite to fight off an opponent, being able to make the opponent lose balance by slamming into it is a huge advantage.

With coyotes being about two times the size of red foxes, it doesn’t come as a surprise that they are also heavier.

Typically, coyotes weigh between 20 and 50 pounds. Red foxes are a lot lighter, with weights between 10 and 18 pounds.

5. Paw Size

Another unsurprising fact is the larger paws coyotes have compared to red foxes.

According to the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, coyotes have a paw size of about 2” by 2.5”. Red fox paws are about 1.5” by 2” in size.

However, the size is not the only factor that could help you identify canid tracks.

Most canids have oval paws with the second and third toes of their front paws pointing away from each other.

In the case of coyotes, the second and third toe are closer together; they both point forward and the claws are oriented toward each other.

This trait makes it easy to tell coyote tracks apart from red foxes, but also wolves and dogs.

6. Speed

Another point in favor of coyotes is the speed: these canids can reach sprinting speeds up to 43 miles per hour.

Red foxes can run at a max of 30 miles per hour, and only for short distances. Their normal running speed is even slower.

Similar to foxes, coyotes can only run at top speed for short distances. However, they are still faster than foxes even when running at normal speed.

7. Strike Force

While the strike force in mammals is seldom measured, this value is easy to calculate by multiplying the speed by weight.

According to these factors, the strike force can be different each time the animal strikes. However, for comparison purposes, we considered the top speed of each species and the top weight coyotes and foxes can reach.

Based on these values, foxes can strike with a force up to 540 lb.-ft./s which is the equivalent of about 16.7 pounds of force.

However, coyotes can strike with up to 2,150 lb.-ft./s, or 66.8 pounds of force. This makes coyotes four times stronger than red foxes.

8. Jumping Abilities

Coyotes, much like red foxes and other canids, are not considered good climbers. However, they can jump – even if their jumping performance is inferior to that of foxes.

In fact, coyotes can jump about three feet up. Despite their smaller size, red foxes can easily jump over obstacles standing up to six feet tall.

While this is the only point in favor of foxes, it might be just what they need to get to safety if they can jump over a fence or up a tree where coyotes can’t reach them.

Climbing-wise, it should also be said that even though they are not considered good climbers, both red foxes and coyotes can climb trees as long as they can reach branches with a smoother incline and that don’t require the use of claws to grip onto the bark.

9. Bite Force

As explained, red foxes are better jumpers and climbers than coyotes. Their advantages end there, though.

As far as bite force is concerned, coyotes are stronger than foxes. In fact, they can exert a bite force of about 727 PSI. A red fox’s bite is about two times weaker, of only 307 PSI.

Both mammals have bites strong enough to kill prey and tear the flesh off bones. To put things into perspective, humans have a bite force of only 162 PSI.

If it would come to a fight between the two canid species, though, coyotes would have a clear advantage.

Despite this, an interesting fact to observe is that red foxes actually have stronger jaws than coyotes when measured pound-per-pound.

The bite force quotient (BFQ) is a measurement scientists use to estimate the bite force of various animals based on their body mass.

In a study on bite forces of various species of mammals, scientists found that red foxes have a BFQ of 90, whereas that of coyotes is only 88.

10. Behavior

Foxes may have a higher bite force quotient than coyotes, and they might be more agile climbers, however, that might not be enough when it comes to a fight.

If strength is in numbers, coyotes have all the odds in their favor.

In fact, while they have a solitary behavior when foraging, coyotes are actually social animals that live in packs.

Packs typically consist of family units – coyotes are monogamous – but unrelated coyotes could sometimes be accepted in a pack. Despite their social structure, coyotes are not known to defend their territory except for the denning season.

Unlike coyotes, red foxes are solitary animals. Females can sometimes live in groups, but this usually happens if they are all mated to the same male.

In fact, female red foxes are typically monogamous. Most males are monogamous too, but some may also seek other partners.

Apart from these circumstances, groups are mostly formed by females and their dependent or unmated offspring.

11. Diet

Coyotes and red foxes are considered omnivores, even though their primary diet consists of meat, and they can compete for resources.

Red foxes usually go after small prey, such as rodents, rabbits, and even birds and reptiles. They also eat insects and arthropods.

Foxes also eat eggs, fruits, berries, and other plant materials. When living near human settlements, they could also take advantage of kitchen refuse.

Coyotes have similar preferences. They go after small mammals, reptiles, insects, and other invertebrates.

As opportunistic mammals, coyotes take advantage of the proximity to human settlements and food scraps. Sometimes, coyotes may also hunt together and take down large prey.

Both coyotes and foxes also feed on carcasses and carrion, when they come across them.

12. Geographic Range

Red foxes are a common and invasive species present in most regions across the globe. The species is native to Eurasia and North America, but it is now found in the southern hemisphere as well.

For instance, red foxes introduced in Australia became an invasive species that is now found in all Australian territories, except for Tasmania. They are also found in South America in countries including Chile and Argentina.

Coyotes are only found in North and Central America, their geographic range spanning from Canada all the way south to Mexico.

Like red foxes, coyotes are considered an invasive species that is known to have expanded its original range over the years.

13. Habitat

Coyotes generally prefer open areas, such as prairies, grasslands, and deserts. Nonetheless, they are also found in open forest areas, urban parks, and suburban areas.

Red foxes prefer semi-open areas, such as the edge of forests and brushlands. They also inhabit prairies, grasslands, and urban and rural areas.

As one can imagine, it is common for coyotes and red foxes in North and Central America to share the same habitat.

Who Would Win A Fight?

Coyotes are larger and stronger than foxes, and when these two species come together in the wild, the former is considered the apex predator.

Yet, coyotes don’t actively hunt foxes. They typically tolerate them, unless a fox comes too close to a coyote’s food. In this case, coyotes are known to kill foxes.

Considering the size and strength differences, as well as the fact that coyotes sometimes hunt and eat in packs, a red fox has no chance of winning the fight. Its only chance would be to get to safety by jumping over a fence tall enough to deter the coyote.

When it comes to duck hunting, we have to admit that weather matters a great deal. Seemingly inconsequential changes in outside conditions can greatly influence a hunter’s success. Do you know that light rain and wind is not likely to harm your hunting success? In fact, light rain and wind can even bring you additional chances. Surprised? Yes, we are not joking. At first, you might be thinking that ducks don’t like to fly in the rain and wind, but in reality, it’s not true. Have you ever heard such an impression as “ducky” weather. Generally, ducky weather means windy and rainy weather as ducks become less scared and start flying lower thinking that nobody could hunt for them in such bad weather.

Notably, if you are about to duck hunt, wind and precipitation can aid you, but you need to make sure you are well-prepared for hunting in the rain. And here we mean not only the proper camouflage, but you need to be well prepared. Mastering a few things can put plenty of birds in your bag. By the way, we’ve found an expert duck hunter who is going to share his 5 tactical secrets and the gear he uses to keep himself comfortable and wind and rain/wind protected.

So, let’s check what he has to share.

5 Top Tips To Duck Hunt In The Rain And Wind

Tip 1: Learn more about the birds’ weather-driven migration patterns, and determine their preferable places in different weather: check out where the ducks may be flying when it’s raining and spot where you can find them once the rain has stopped. Just for the record, rivers and lakes are excellent places to jump shoot ducks. But you can hardly expect a duck to fly somewhere over a big lake during the rain, but it is likely to fly around smaller bodies of water that have a good tree line blocking out at least some of the wind and rain. By the way, the Duckr application can tell you exactly which direction the wind is coming from so you can set up your blind correctly. Never again will you set up your blind facing the wrong way!

Tip 2: Consider investing in proper duck hunting gear to enjoy maximum, leak-proof protection. Typically, must have gear for duck hunting in the rain includes the following items: waterproof chest waders and a rain jacket, a fleece pullover, and weatherproof ultra light packable down vest, waterproof long boots, as well as balaklava,

along with gloves for cold rainy weather. Of course, there are several other items that duck hunters adore using, such as a pair of good binoculars, for instance.

Tip 3: Check the nearest weather forecast and remember that it’s only the rain that is good for duck hunting, but not thunderstorms. In a big scheme of things, go hunting it’s going to run but if a big storm is expected, it’s always better to stay at home.

Tip 4: Remember that ducks almost always fly into the wind. So it would be a wise move to place yourself where you have a shot at birds flying up or down the river. Makes sense, doesn’t it?

Tip 5: Ensure you hunt from a ground blind where you can stay warm and dry. But still don’t forget to wear the proper weather suitable clothes.

Finally, here is one extra tip from our expert hunter: Try to be where the birds want to be, stay hidden and use decoys effectively.

Key Takeaways

Despite the popular misbelief that rain and wind prevent you from successful duck hunting, if properly prepared, they can be a hunter’s best-friend. As a matter of fact, hunting in the rain keeps ducks flying low, making your job even easier. Follow the tips we have mentioned above and you will have all chances to succeed.

Hey, do you think we have missed some important duck hunting in the rain tips? Don’t keep them secret, please do share them with us.

P.S. To avoid any duck hunting issues with your local authorities, don’t forget to get permission to hunt.

We wish you happy and result-bringing hunting!

Related articles:

• Strategies for Small-Water Ducks
• Learning from Your Misses – Ducks Unlimited
• DUCK SEASON’S COMING

Normal rut expected this season with the help of timely cold fronts

This rut prediction is based on the timing of scrape initiation for each area, which from my years of observations, always occurs during the new moon phase. Scrape initiation is that time when bucks will open up traditional scrape sites for the upcoming season. It’s probably a result of an increase of testosterone and the bucks will not check or work the scrapes again until another month, when the major rut period begins.

Deer seasons are established based upon the breeding season of deer in a particular area. The southwest parishes of the state generally have the earliest dates and therefore open early. Area 2, one of the largest deer sections in the state, has the typical breeding season like many of the Midwest and northern deer states. November is the peak month of breeding activity in this Area. Areas 4 and 9 have December as the major month and Areas 1, 5 and 6 have a late rut in January.

Based on the timing of scrape initiation, I am predicting a 2022-23 rut with the major breeding periods occurring during the early weeks of their breeding range.

What happened in 2021?

An early rut was also predicted for 2021, but based upon hunter harvests and examination of female reproductive tracts, the rut was about a month later than predicted. Now generally these days when things go astray, folks jump to blame climate change, but in this case I don’t think that is the culprit. What did happen was a major hurricane. Hurricane Ida came into the state and left a path of destruction as it moved northward from the coast into the Florida Parishes.

I distinctly remember sitting in my chair that night in the Clinton area watching the storm when the power went out. I tried to contact several friends in north Louisiana to see what they could tell me about the path of the storm and then realized there was no phone service. I knew that wasn’t good. While we had damage on our property, we were spared the destruction that so many received.

After the storm, the weather during September and October was very hot and dry. What really got my attention was the out-of-season flowering of numerous fruit tree species. Our big Red Mulberry tree leafed out and flowered again and actually produced a crop of mulberries. Pears and mayhaws also flowered along with other species of trees that leafed out again.

The storm, with its stressful weather that followed, had an effect on the landscape. I believe it had an impact on the animal ecology and was responsible for a later than anticipated rut. Of course, that’s just me and what I observed.

I hunted the early season in Area 2 in Union and Bossier Parishes and experienced poor deer movement and no success. My prediction for the major rut period in Area 2 last year was mid-October. But based upon breeding dates of does from Bossier Parish that I looked at in early January, it showed that breeding began on Nov. 15, a month later than predicted. Most of my deer hunting is done in Area 4 where I live. In 2021, I had predicted the major breeding to begin in late November. The limited data I was able to collect showed it to be later. I examined a 1 ½-year-old doe that bred on Dec. 8, an older adult doe that was bred on Dec. 20, and a 10-month-old doe that cycled and was bred on Feb. 6.

Late December was predicted for the start of Area 6 breeding and based on data from 10 does that I examined, major breeding began in mid to late January. While deer movement, particularly buck movement, appeared slow, the 2021-22 harvest report showed an increase in the deer harvest when compared to the 2020-21 deer season. While I saw plenty of deer, my sightings of adult bucks was down. It seems they were always a step ahead of me!

It’s just a prediction

Therefore, keep in mind that the rut prediction is just that, a prediction.

Weather conditions and changes in the landscape or habitat will affect deer movement and activity. During the major breeding period, most of the does in the population will be bred, at least 70 to 80 percent of them. During the minor breeding period the remainder of the does should be bred. Some of these deer are just young, like a road kill doe that I examined back in May.

This doe was bred as a fawn on Feb. 6; apparently it became sexually active at that time and had its first estrus cycle. Over the years, I have examined 1 ½-year-old harvested does that had fawned based on evidence of lactation, but this was the first fawn that I ever examined with a fetus in the uterus. This is an indicator of a healthy deer herd.

Both the Major Rut and Minor Rut periods are divided into a time of scraping and a time of breeding. Both periods are approximately two weeks long, although the scraping period could only last 5-10 days. Once does begin visiting scrapes and leaving their scent, the bucks will leave the scrapes and start following them. The chase is on followed by a period we often call lockdown, when the breeding takes place and deer seem to disappear from the landscape.

Now, on with the prediction.

Area summaries

Southwest Louisiana is the early rut region of the state and the seasons open early to allow hunters to hunt during the rut. All hunters should carefully read the regulations and season literature to know the exact location, dates and limits for each area. There are several public land areas in this region and these generally have different season dates and hunting schedules.

West Bay WMA is always a good area to hunt and last year the early October hunt produced a deer kill per every seven hunter efforts, which is good. The October hunt on Peason Ridge had a deer killed per every 4.5 hunter efforts. This region of the state is best known for waterfowl hunting, but the deer population in these parishes is good as well. They do not produce the true trophy bucks, but will produce a lot of quality adult bucks. The breeding range in these areas is September thru December, but don’t wait until November to start hunting or you may miss out on the best deer movement.

Northwest and Central Louisiana is known as Area 2 and many of these parishes have some of the state’s highest deer kills. Bienville, Union, Claiborne, Natchitoches, Winn, Jackson, Rapides and Webster are in the top 10 deer kill parishes. Bossier, Sabine, LaSalle and Grant are in the top 20. It is evident that there are good deer populations in this region and the major rut occurs in November, so hunting is generally excellent. Many hunters take time off from work on Thanksgiving week, hoping to catch it at its peak over the holidays. The breeding range is October through January, but generally by the end of December, bucks are beginning to drop their antlers. Bodcau and Loggy Bayou WMAs are two great areas to hunt.

The breeding range for Areas 4 and 9 is November through February. Generally December is the peak month of breeding activity and that is the prediction for this year. For whatever reason, Area 4 has been anointed with a three-deer limit, so hunters must be aware of this. This region of the state has been hit hard by hurricanes and for some reason the biologists at LDWF believe deer numbers are down. However, I would suggest that they need to take a closer look at these parishes and re-evaluate the situation. Deer numbers are not down in East Feliciana and some of the surrounding parishes. Public WMAs are limited in this region and an examination of the WMA harvest data won’t get hunters too excited!

Decline in participation

Perhaps providing more hunter opportunity on some of these areas might attract more attention. It appears that the overall trend on the state’s management areas is a decline in hunter participation.

Areas 1, 5 and 6 are the trophy buck areas of the state and this is due to a combination of soil, agriculture and bottomland hardwoods.

It also is the area of late breeding and it is not uncommon for hunters to find active scrapes in the woods during February and March in many of these parishes. Unfortunately, one case of CWD has been discovered in a small portion of Area 1, which has resulted in LDWF taking action to prevent its spread. The area of precaution for CWD includes portions of Tensas, Madison and Franklin parishes and hunters should know the detailed rules and regulations for hunting in this area. The primary focus of LDWF is to prevent the spread of CWD into other regions of the state. The western mountain states have been dealing with it since 1967, and it is a problem we do not need in Louisiana. If you look at the map of the CWD outbreak in the U.S., what began as a problem in one deer pen in Colorado, has become a national problem.

I attended a recent legislative hearing regarding the CWD ban in Tensas, Madison and Franklin parishes. All of the legislators wanted to know when would the ban end, how long will this last? Well, the basic answer is it does not end, once you get it, you have it, and it does not go away. Look at the CWD map; the problem just expands and gets worse. Consequently efforts to contain the disease must be made.

This is an agriculture region with bottomland hardwood and batture land, the river’s actual active floodplain, and there is no need to bait, in my opinion. Hunters can plant and hunt over food plots. However, if the disease expands from here into the piney woods, hunters will be facing troubles because of the popularity of baiting.

Many hunters around the state will use deer scents and urine when hunting and the state has enacted specific rules and regulations to address this. Hunters should be aware of this when purchasing these natural deer lures for hunting and use only approved products. It is up to us to do our part and help prevent this serious disease from expanding further into the state.

Hopefully my predictions will provide you with some insight as to the best time to hunt. Some will say that any time someone can hunt is a good time, but I can say with confidence that there are times when you are just wasting your time. The deer are just not going to move! Hunt hard and be safe; share your success with others and help teach the next generation of hunters how to hunt the right way.

If you were to rank the most popular baits for catfish, minnows would probably not rank in the top 5…or even top 10 for that matter.

But why is that? We know catfish eat minnows based on their stomach contents…so why aren’t they commonly used as bait?

In this article, ill discuss using minnows for catfish bait…and why you may want to give it a try the next time you are out fishing.

Can you use Minnows for Catfish Bait?

While traditional catfish baits like chicken gizzards, shad and shrimp are all common and effective, do not overlook using regular minnows for catfish bait.

In fact, using minnows for catfish is a tactic that can be very effective in certain bodies of water, depending on the species of catfish and forage available.

Additionally, minnows are usually readily available at bait shops, or easy enough to catch your own.

Which species of catfish eat minnows?

Virtually all species of freshwater catfish will eat minnows, but I’ve had the most success targeting brown bullheads, yellow bullheads, channel catfish, and white catfish.

Flathead catfish love to eat other fish as their primary food source…and although sunfish are a better bait choice, shad, shiners or large minnows can also be very effective.

How to Catch Catfish with Minnows

To specifically target catfish with minnows as bait, you need to fish your baits on or near the bottom. A simple sinker/knocker rig consisting of a circle hook, leader, swivel, and sinker is effective and versatile.

In lakes and ponds, catfish will generally be found near structures and vegetation along the bottom, as they like to hide out and take cover for hours at a time.

See Also: The Best Time Of Day To Catch Catfish

If you are fishing a small area, you can chum the area first with dead minnows to help spread out the scent and attract nearby fish.

Then, cast out your catfish rigs along the bottom. Experiment with different depths to find where the catfish are located.

I like to cast one line in the deepest section, another in the middle depth area, and the last line along the bank or shoreline.

By keeping your minnows on the bottom, you’re less likely to get bites from sunfish, bass, and other fish you may not be targeting.

Which Minnows are Best for Catching Catfish?

Catfish are not too picky when it comes to living bait or fresh (dead bait). Fathead minnows and golden shiners are popular choices, as these are both naturally occurring forage and large enough to target catfish.

However, here in Florida, I’ve used a bundle of small crappie minnows or mosquitofish to target brown bullheads and channel catfish.

Just hook 3-4 minnows on a hook (similar to putting a few worms on a hook). Fish it on the bottom and wait!

PRO TIP: A great money-saving tip for catfish anglers is to ask bait and tackle shops about their dead minnows. They will often give them away for free, as they can’t sell them and do not want to deal with the smell and pests involved with throwing them in the garbage.

Related: How Many Minnows are in a Pound/Gallon/Scoop

How Do You Rig Minnows for Catfish?

One of the most common rigs to catch catfish using minnows is the classic Carolina rig. Be sure to use small gauge circle hooks (2/0-4/0 size is best) and just enough weight to keep your rig along the bottom of the water column.

The Carolina rig is often used by anglers fishing from docks or piers in still water. This bottom fishing rig works to keep the minnow at the bottom of the lake while keeping a natural motion.

This is a “set it and forget it” approach to catfishing, and multiple lines are often used at once. The more the better!

“Slip bobbers” or “float bobbers” also can be helpful tools when river fishing for catfish in rivers, where the current may be too strong to fish on the bottom.

The bobber allows the minnow to stay high enough to float in the current, making it a great target for waiting for catfish near drop-off areas of the river.

I still strongly suggest you keep your floats adjusted so that the minnows are along the bottom of the water column.

How To Hook Minnow When Targeting Catfish?

If I am using live minnows, I will hook them through the tail so they stay alive and flutter/swim while on the bottom. If I am using dead minnows I will usually hook them through the head, as this is the most secure location.

How To Keep Minnows On The Hook

The biggest reason why minnows come off the hook is that the hooks are the incorrect size, or they are cast off and the hooks rip out.

Try using small gauge wire hooks, and match the hook size with your bait and intended target.

For example, If I am trying to catch 1-3 pound brown bullheads, a simple 1/0 circle hook is sufficient.

Related: The Ultimate Catfish Bait Soap Recipe (EASY!)

Are Live or Dead Minnows Better For Catfish?

While live bait is hands down the best option for targeting most species of fish, fresh dead minnows can actually work better when targeting catfish. Catfish rely on smell more than any other sense to find food, and the scent of fresh dead minnow or shiner can release attract catfish.

This technique works particularly well when fishing in creeks and rivers, as the motion of the water will make it less apparent that the fish isn’t moving.

Releasing scent and oils into the water will draw in a variety of fish, working to chum the water while fishing.

Final Thoughts

So, should you use minnows exclusively for catfish bait?

No, that is not what I am suggesting…

But catfish are one of the few freshwater fish you can really experiment with different bait options.

I think you will find that some catfish respond to certain baits better than others, and that may vary from lake to lake.

Next time you are out crappie fishing with minnows for crappie, walleye, or bass…throw a few on a bottom rig and try for some catfish.

You may be surprised at what ya catch!

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• How To Keep Minnows Alive Without an Aerator (7 Tips)
• Why You Should Be Using Kool-Aid As Catfish Bait!
• How to Catch Koi Fish (And Are They Edible?)
• 5 Effective Ways To Catch Minnows for Bait
• Using Bluegill For Bass Bait? Don’t Miss These Tips!

A spear shaft needs the right wood. The wood can depend if you use the shaft to decorate or for combat training. But, this can get tricky for reasons like durability, strength, and more.

So naturally, you must be wondering, what’s the best wood for spear shaft?

Hickory, ash, red oak, and acacia are great options for spear shafts. Hickory is a very reliable option whereas Ash provides a traditional feel. Red oak is a great option for decorative purposes while acacia is widely available.

To know more about these woods, keep reading our article. We have elaborated on their features and differences below just for you.

Let’s begin!

Which Wood To Pick For A Spear Shaft?

With the variety of options available, choosing wood for a spear shaft can be puzzling. However, we have four recommendations: Hickory, Ash, Red oak, and Acacia.

To help you understand these variations, we’ve put together a table.

Type of woodAdvantages Disadvantages HickoryAccessible Strong Durable Not as traditional as Ash Is heavier than other woods Rigid Ash Traditional Lightweight Flexible Prone to rot Not very durable Red oakDurable Great for decorative purposes Splinters easily Heavy to carry and use Difficult to cut and size Acacia Widely available Durable Expensive Temperature-sensitive

We understand that this isn’t sufficient information for you to make a final decision. This is why we’ll go over the differences in more detail below.

1. Hickory

This is the most common hardwood out there. If you’re making a spear for combat and throwing purposes, this is a great option. In terms of cost, hickory is really affordable.

This is because hickory is very strong and durable. So no matter how you throw or use it, your spear shaft will remain intact. There will be little to no splintering of the wood on heavy impact.

On top of that, hickory is widely available. You can easily get it from hardware stores or dealers. This wood is easy to maintain and only needs the occasional wipe down with a damp cloth.

However, this is very heavy wood, roughly weighing 2 pounds. So while yielding the shaft, you may think it’s too stiff and rigid. Also, you might want a spear shaft similar to those used in older civilizations. In that case, hickory isn’t the right choice.

2. Ash

Many spear shafts in history were made from ash. Similar to hickory, this is also a widely available hardwood for spear shafts. Ash is on par with hickory when it comes to cost.

The unique quality of this hardwood is that it’s light and flexible. This makes it easy to yield and maneuver in close range, up to 80 meters. Since it’s light, it’s also a great option for newbies learning to wield and use spears.

However, unlike hickory, ash isn’t very durable. If it bends too much, it’s tough to restore the original shape.

On top of that, ash is prone to rotting. This makes it tough to maintain. Chances are, your spear shaft won’t last longer than a year.

3. Red Oak

This is the most beautiful hardwood of the bunch. This brown wood with red undertones makes a very aesthetically pleasing spear shaft. It tends to be slightly more expensive than Ash and Hickory.

Red oak is also the toughest hardwood out there. So it’s on par with hickory in terms of durability.

However, since the wood is tough, it’s very difficult to cut and size it. If you’re new to spears, this will be very heavy to use.

Lastly, the wood is brittle and splinters easily. Consequently, it can’t take high-impact blows. So it’s best for decorative purposes only. It just needs regular cleaning with a rag.

4. Acacia

If you’re living somewhere where the aforementioned woods aren’t available, use acacia. This is a hardwood that’s available all across the world. It’s highly durable and resists splintering upon impact.

However, acacia is more expensive both in terms of price and maintenance costs.

The natural properties of the wood make it tarnish quickly. So it requires yearly maintenance in the form of polishing.

If you’re unsure about the type of polish to get, check the ones below. Any one of these will make your spear shaft shine.

Now that’s covered, let’s proceed.

Final Decision: What Is the Best Wood for A Spear Shaft?

Don’t have a preference for one over the other? We can assist you.

If you want to make a spear shaft for combat or throwing purposes, opt for hickory. It will give you the strength and longevity you need.

If you want a traditional or low-scale spear shaft, go for ash wood. However, for simply decorative purposes, stick to red oak.

Lastly, if you can’t find the other woods, go for acacia. Simply store the shaft in a cool place, below 86℉ to keep the wood from tarnishing.

We hope these let you decide the best wood for your spear shaft.

Frequently Asked Questions

Question: How thick should a spear shaft be?

Answer: Ideally, the diameter should be 1 to 1.5 inches. This is a good range of thickness that’ll let you handle the spear well. Anywhere in this range should allow you to handle the spear with one or two hands.

Question: How long should a throwing spear shaft be?

Answer: Depending on your height, it can range from 5.5 feet to 8 feet long. If the wood is light, then opt for 6 to 7 feet. This is the optimal length for single and double-handed throwing. If the wood is heavy, and you’re 6 feet or taller, go for 8 feet.

Question: How to take care of the spear?

Answer: After each use, wipe it down with a damp rag. Wait for it to dry completely. Opt for storing the spear in a cool and dry room. Once every 6 months, polish the spear to keep it looking brand new.

Final Words

With everything covered, now you should know the best wood for spear shaft. Make sure you pick the wood for the task it needs to do.

Good luck with the project and we hope the wood you pick serves you well.

If this article helped you, let us know in the comments below!

When .223 Remington just won’t do it, many turn to the venerable .308 Winchester. The classic “battle rifle” is a term dedicated to semi-automatic rifles chambered in a full-power rifle caliber — typically the .308 Win. The .308 Winchester often offers the extra performance needed compared to the .223 Remington, and provides shooters with the upper hand.

Whether it’s for fun at the range or in preparation for a SHTF scenario, here are the top five .308 Winchester semi-auto rifles that you can bet your life on.

Why Choose a .308 Battle Rifle?

There are several reasons to choose a .308 Winchester semi-auto rifle over something chambered in a lesser caliber. The two main reasons being superior ballistics and increased effective range. For example, when looking at two comparable Federal loads with a FMJ BT projectile, we see that a 62-grain .223 Remington has a velocity of 3,020 fps and produces 1,255 ft/lbs of energy, while a 150-grain .308 Winchester has a velocity of 2,820 fps and produces 2,648 ft/lbs of energy. This means that, on average, your rifle chambered in .308 Winchester will produce over twice the amount of energy as your standard .223 Remington rifle.

Additionally, the .308 Winchester has a max effective range of roughly 1,000 yards according to the USMC, while the .223 Remington only has a max effective range of around 600 yards. This allows shooters, with proper marksmanship fundamentals and abilities, to put more distance between them and a threat.

In a SHTF or bug-out situation, you could also use a .308 rifle to hunt a wide variety of game. This could be beneficial for survival with the right skills and conditions in place.

Cons of Using .308

Though there are a number of reasons to choose a .308 Winchester semi-auto rifle over something chambered in 5.56 NATO, there are also some cons. The primary impairment will be weight — rifle weight, loaded magazines, and spare ammo will all be heavier. If you are going to be carrying a full loadout for an extended time period or distance, the extra weight exacts a toll on the body. It can also account for limitations on the amount of additional gear you would otherwise be able to carry.

The increased power of the .308 cartridge comes with an increase in recoil, muzzle blast, and report. This makes the rifle harder to fire accurately and can slow down follow-up shots. It can also have a negative effect on your vision or hearing when firing in certain environments, such as indoors or at night, due to the excess concussion and muzzle flash.

You will also have a reduced capacity compared to a 5.56 rifle, moving from a standard 30-round magazine to a 20-round mag. You can find extended .308 magazines, but you will still be dealing with the additional weight and lower capacity compared to extended 5.56 mags.

1. Smith & Wesson M&P10 Sport

Starting off the list as the most budget-friendly option, the Smith & Wesson M&P10 is an AR-10 platform .308 Winchester rifle. This provides shooters with good parts compatibility for upgrading or replacing accessories and components. Constructed of durable 7075-T6 upper and lower receivers, the M&P10 is capable of taking a beating. The 16-inch barrel provides excellent accuracy while keeping the rifle lightweight and maneuverable at only about 6.5 lbs.

The Sport variant comes with a standard A2 handguard, pistol grip, and stock, but the rifle is also available in different configurations depending on your preferences. Overall, the M&P10 Sport allows shooters to get into a quality .308 Winchester semi-auto rifle without breaking the bank.

2. DS Arms SA58 FAL

Introduced in 1946 and dubbed “the right arm of the free world,” the FAL is a well-known .308 battle rifle. The DS Arms SA58 provides an improved version of the original FAL with the inclusion of an M-Lok handguard for attaching accessories, top rail for mounting optics, adjustable side-folding stock, enhanced ambidextrous magazine release, and extended cocking handle knob. Additionally, the rifle features a 16-inch medium-contour fluted barrel and is equipped with an elevation adjustable front sight post along with a quick-adjust dual aperture rear sight.

DS Arms also offers a standard version of the SA58 with an 18-inch barrel and standard furniture that is more in line with a traditional FAL. All parts of the DS Arms SA58 are high-quality and made in the USA.

3. Springfield M1A SOCOM 16

The Springfield Armory M1A SOCOM 16 is the highest evolution of the trusted M1A/M14 series of rifles. The SOCOM 16 model features a 16.25-inch barrel for a more compact and maneuverable overall package. The SOCOM variant of the M1A also incorporates an optic mount, as well as an XS Sights tritium front sight post with an enlarged military aperture ghost ring rear sight that is adjustable for windage and elevation. The M1A includes a 10-round magazine, but 20-round magazines are available. If classic wood and steel is more your style, take a look at the standard M1A.

4. IWI Tavor 7

The IWI Tavor 7 is unique, in that it features a bullpup design. Bullpup rifles move the action to the rear of the firearm. This makes for a more compact rifle, even with the 16.5-inch barrel length. The Tavor is highly regarded as a durable and dependable rifle — partially due to the short-stroke gas piston design with a rotating closed bolt.

The Tavor 7 incorporates an ambidextrous safety lever, magazine release, and bolt catch. Additionally, the charging handle and ejection side can be reversed, making this a great choice for both right and left-handed shooters.

5. FN SCAR 17S

One of the most well-known .308 Winchester semi-auto rifles is the FN SCAR 17S. The .308 SCAR comes in two configurations, a shorter version with a 16-inch free-float barrel called the 17S, and a longer version with a 20-inch barrel called the 20S. Purpose-built for long-range shooting, the short-stroke gas piston system efficiently absorbs recoil for greater precision and faster follow-up shots.

The SCAR features an ambidextrous safety lever, magazine release, and a charging handle that mounts on the right or left side. Further, the SCAR utilizes a telescoping, side-folding polymer stock with an adjustable cheek piece allowing the rifle to be fitted to the shooter.

Honorable Mention: IWI Galil Ace

The Galil Ace is often looked at as a sort of modernized and upgraded AK-47. Typically chambered in 7.62x39mm, there is also a .308 Winchester version of the Galil. It features a 16.5-inch chrome-lined, cold hammer forged barrel and utilizes a 20-round magazine. When compared to the AK, the reciprocating charging handle has been moved to the left side of the milled steel receiver, allowing for weak hand operation.

The Galil features a closed rotating bolt, long-stroke gas piston system that makes it incredibly reliable. Additionally, the rifle features adjustable iron sights with a tritium front post and a two-dot tritium rear aperture. However, the Galil Ace also incorporates a full-length top rail to mount an optic. An adjustable, side-folding stock makes for easy storage and transportation, and allows the shooter to fit the rifle to the desired length of pull.

Conclusion: Best .308 Winchester Rifles

Sometimes having a full-power battle rifle is just what the doctor prescribed. They shoot farther, hit harder, and have a distinct feel that no standard AR-15 can match. So, if you’ve decided that a semi-auto .308 rifle is for you, any of the options on this list are sure to serve you well.

What is your favorite .308 “battle rifle”? Let us know in the comment section.

One of the most hotly debated topics among whitetail land managers on social media is whether deer mineral products actually work. Let’s get right to the heart of the matter and ask what is meant by the word “work”. I think this can be answered two ways; do they work to attract deer? Or do they work to help bucks grow bigger antlers?

Most “mineral” products marketed to deer hunters absolutely will attract deer but most will NOT “work” to grow bigger antlers no matter the advertising claims attached to them. As a deer hunter you need to consider the reason you are putting out mineral products for deer.

If your goal is to simply attract deer to a game camera location without any regards to how the product will help deer, then basically any product will probably work to some degree. In fact if this is your goal then you should probably just consider buying a bag of cheap stock salt at your local farm store. You will honestly get the same results at a fraction the price.

Now let’s look at the question that serious land managers really want to know; can mineral products help bucks grow bigger antlers. The answer is a definitive “YES”, but there are a lot of factors that need to be considered. It is not quite as simple as putting out minerals in the summer and magically seeing bigger bucks in the fall.

This chart shows that most mineral products marketed to deer hunters have gaping holes in their formulation. Most cannot possibly help increase antler growth. Click on chart for better view

Let’s start by addressing an argument that many nay-sayers throw up when they try to debunk the idea that deer minerals can help grow bigger antlers. They will state that there is no scientific research that shows minerals help grow bigger antlers. That’s true but to my knowledge there has also never been scientific research that proves minerals do not help with antler growth. The fact is, it is impossible for true scientific research to prove either way. You simply cannot feed a group of bucks mineral and know what size antlers they would have grown without it, or vice versa. Again, this type of scientific “proof” is simply not possible so we will have to rely on an open mind and common sense to help us draw conclusions.

By looking at the livestock industry it is very easy to see the value of minerals in animal diets. Essentially every livestock farmer or rancher in the United States uses minerals as part of their nutrition program. Volumes of research proves the value of minerals for increased growth rates, better reproductive performance and increased health of the animals receiving it. Think about it, these animals are being fed scientifically developed feed rations to maximize health and production and yet there is still many research proven benefits by also feeding them minerals. I think it is fairly easy to conclude that a whitetail deer consuming a random diet could also benefit from mineral supplementation.

In visiting with Real World Wildlife Products nutritionist Dr. Aaron Gaines, he provides the following perspective on mineral demand of whitetail deer, “The milk produced by a whitetail doe has twice the amount of mineral as cows milk, so if a farmer provides his cows with minerals why wouldn’t a serious whitetail land manager provide a mineral supplement to his deer herd as well?”. To take this a step further, Dr Gaines provided the following requirement comparison for a lactating doe vs. a buck that is growing antler; During a 60-day lactation period a doe needs around 215 grams of calcium and 166 grams of phosphorus. In comparison a buck that is growing antler (900 grams total weight) needs 199 grams of calcium and 98 grams of phosphorus. The take home message from this comparison is that does and bucks BOTH have a high requirement for calcium and phosphorus. It is easy to conclude that a whitetail deer consuming a random diet in the wild is no different than a cow grazing pasture; both benefit from mineral supplementation. Further, this does not even factor in the numerous micro-nutrients that whitetails also need which are often lacking in their diet.

Let’s look at this topic from another angle. The biggest whitetail antlers generally come from those regions of the country with the richest soils. Soils are essentially minerals. Those soils that grow the most productive farm crops also grow the biggest bucks. A farmer growing corn on the richest soils in the Midwest will supplement the nutrients available to his crop through fertilization. Even in these highly fertile soils any crop is limited by the required nutrient that is in shortest supply. The same principal applies to a buck growing antlers. To deny that minerals can help a buck grow a bigger rack is like saying a farmer gets no benefit from fertilizing his corn fields. Let’s also recognize that captive deer breeders growing giant antlers on their bucks are feeding minerals to their entire herd, both bucks and does.

Captive deer breeders know that a good mineral supplement can increase antler growth on their bucks

I hope by now you are open to the idea that mineral supplementation absolutely can help a buck grow bigger antlers. We have only reached the starting point however because there is a whole lot more we need to understand in order to maximize the antler growth of the bucks on the properties we manage. It is a little more involved than just putting out mineral and thinking that your bucks will instantly start to grow bigger antlers.

We have to start by looking at the differences in mineral products. Most products marketed to deer hunters are simply high-salt mixes made to turn a big profit margin. They contain minimal amounts of beneficial minerals and in fact are almost always totally void of many of the required nutrients needed for antler growth. Because deer crave salt, they do consume these products and thus many hunters assume they “work”. The brutal truth is that while they do work to attract deer, they absolutely cannot possibly do anything to help a buck grow bigger antlers.

Let’s go back to the livestock industry for a bit. The mineral product that a farmer gives to his lactating dairy cows is a totally different mixture than what he would give to his beef calves. The various mineral blends fed to livestock have been scientifically formulated by professional nutritionists to maximize their benefits to the specific animal ingesting it. So why would deer be any different? A deer is not a cow so feeding mineral products developed for other species to whitetail deer is not the answer.

Clearly, research involving whitetail nutrition falls short of what has been done with livestock. Still, enough has been done that a quality whitetail mineral product can be formulated. The key is not only in which specific minerals, vitamins and other nutrients need to be included but just as importantly, at what levels and ratios. While I have seen a lot of “home mineral mixes” shared via the internet, all have gaping nutritional holes that will limit their effectiveness, if they even have any effect on antler growth at all.

Now let’s look at providing mineral products to wild deer and what one can expect as far as results in terms of increased antler growth. First of all, getting the most of a deer mineral supplementation program is a long term endeavor. I think a whitetail land manager needs to be looking 5 years ahead before the full benefits of mineral supplementation will be truly realized. Again, research from the livestock industry fuels my opinion on this.

Getting a buck to reach his full genetic potential in terms of antler growth starts before a buck is even born.

A study at Oregon State University focused on “fetal programming” of beef calves. The researchers were looking at the possibility of pushing calf performance throughout life by increasing the mineral intake of cows during pregnancy. In this trial researchers showed that calves born to cows that had received increased mineral supplementation performed better and were healthier throughout life than calves born to mothers without it. This is in spite of the fact that both groups of calves got proper mineral supplementation after birth. In other words, once a calf was born it was too late for him to catch up to other calves; he had already been programmed as a fetus. The calves born to cows getting the extra minerals grew faster and had fewer health issues all the way to slaughter. It is important to note that neither group of cows in this study were “mineral deficient” but instead one group simply got increased levels of minerals. What this study showed is that once a calf is born, it is too late to push him to his genetic potential in terms of growth.

After 25 years of research with captive whitetails I believe the same is true with bucks. To really get a buck to reach his genetic potential for antler growth, it really needs to start before he is even conceived! It is extremely important for a whitetail land manager to have his entire deer herd, including his does, on a high-quality mineral supplementation program if he expects to increase antler growth. It is those unborn fawns that will one day produce the full rewards of a quality mineral program in terms of antler production.

As mentioned, for nearly 25 years I owned a research herd of captive whitetails. I focused my studies on genetics and nutrition. Several years ago one of my research projects involved mineral supplementation. My goal was to determine if mineral supplementation affected antler growth to any noticeable degree. I started by acquiring 7 sets of twin buck fawns and then separated the twins into two pens so that I had 7 buck fawns in one pen and 7 in the other. Each buck had a twin brother in the opposite pen. Both pens received the very same feed ration out of the same feed bin. The difference was that the feed in one pen was top-dressed daily with a mineral product I was developing.

Each fall after the shedding of velvet I would tranquilize each buck and then score and remove his antlers. I would figure up the total inches of antler from each pen for comparison. Remember, every buck in pen A had a twin brother in pen B. Eventually I had to abort the study and while I will readily acknowledge that this study was very limited in its scope and not of sufficient breadth to stand up to scientific review, I did see enough to form an opinion. I am convinced that mineral supplementation can increase antler growth in whitetail bucks. “To what degree?” is the big question. My best guess is that a long-term mineral supplementation program using a high-quality whitetail specific mineral could add somewhere between 10-20% to the gross antler score of a mature buck. Certainly some individual animals will respond differently than others.

In conclusion, I am convinced that mineral supplementation can indeed increase antler growth in whitetail bucks. To be brutally honest however, most of the mineral programs currently being practiced by well meaning whitetail hunters and land-managers are a waste of time and money. They will do little more than draw deer to a game camera location.

Which Deer Mineral is Best?

To this point I have purposely neglected mentioning any products by name and won’t get started on bashing products. I do however need to plug Real World Wildlife Products Maximizer and Maximizer Plus mineral products. While I played a role in the development of each product it was really a team process that took many years to perfect. Nutritionists Dr Aaron Gaines and Brent Ratliff played key roles as did world-renown whitetail veterinarian Dr Clifford Shipley of the University of Illinois.

Maximizer and Maximizer Plus each have over 20 different minerals, vitamins and key nutrients in very specific ratios and levels. Maximizer Plus also contains Real Worlds exclusive Expect Healthy Deer Technology® for added health and performance benefits. Captive deer breeders have taken notice of these products and are feeding them to their herds in increasing numbers. Consider this fact – there is probably not a captive deer breeder in the world feeding one of the numerous mineral products marketed to deer hunters to their herd with one exception … MAXIMIZER! If you are looking to take the bucks on your property to their genetic limits while maximizing herd health, Maximizer and Maximizer Plus are honestly your very best option.

Getting Started

Implementing a good mineral program on your property is really very simple but a few things need to be considered. For best results have at least 1 good mineral station for every 40 acres of land. These should be established in high deer traffic areas. You want every deer on the property to pass within close proximity of a mineral station each and every day.

To start a mineral station simply find a suitable location and kick away any leaves or other debris in about a 3’-4’ circle and pour about 20# of mineral in a small pile. There is no need to work it into the soil although it won’t hurt anything to do so. It is important to keep each mineral site replenished with plenty of Maximizer or Maximizer Plus mineral every 30 days or so. Keep in mind that mineral consumption increases in late winter and continues through the summer. In the fall and early winter consumption will not be as heavy. Remember, proper mineral supplementation is not a quick way to grow bigger antlers but instead is a long term commitment resulting in healthier deer AND bigger antlers.