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Understanding the Bullwinkle Deer Disease: Causes, Symptoms, and Management

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Bullwinkle deer disease is a chronic wasting disease that affects members of the deer family, including mule deer, white-tailed deer, and elk. It was first discovered in the late 1970s in Colorado and has since spread to other regions of North America.

This disease has caused significant concern among wildlife managers and researchers due to its potential impact on wildlife populations. In this article, we will discuss the causes, symptoms, and management of bullwinkle deer disease.

Cause

Bullwinkle deer disease is caused by prions, which are abnormal proteins that can cause other proteins to misfold and aggregate in the brain and other tissues. These aggregates, also known as amyloid plaques, cause neurological damage and eventually lead to death. Prions are highly resistant to traditional sterilization methods and can remain in the environment for many years, making it difficult to control the spread of the disease.

Significance

Bullwinkle deer disease is a significant concern for wildlife managers and researchers due to its impact on deer and elk populations. The disease is fatal and has no cure, and once it becomes established in a population, it can spread rapidly. In addition to the potential ecological impacts, bullwinkle deer disease also has economic impacts. Hunting is an important industry in many regions of North America, and the presence of the disease can lead to reduced hunting opportunities and decreased revenue.

Species Affected

Bullwinkle deer disease affects members of the deer family, including mule deer, white-tailed deer, and elk. The disease has been documented in many states in the United States, as well as in several Canadian provinces.

Distribution

Bullwinkle deer disease has been documented in many states in the United States, including Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, and Wisconsin, as well as several Canadian provinces. The disease appears to be spreading and has been detected in new areas in recent years.

Transmission

Bullwinkle deer disease is primarily transmitted through direct contact with infected animals or contaminated environments. Prions shed in the bodily fluids of infected animals can contaminate the environment, and other animals can become infected by ingesting contaminated food or water. The disease can also be transmitted through indirect contact, such as through contaminated hunting equipment or carcasses.

Clinical Signs

The clinical signs of bullwinkle deer disease can vary depending on the severity of the infection. In mild cases, infected deer may not display any visible symptoms. However, in severe cases, the disease can cause significant damage to the nervous system, resulting in a range of neurological symptoms.

Affected deer may appear disoriented and have difficulty walking or standing. They may also exhibit head tremors, droopy ears, and an inability to coordinate their movements. Some infected deer may display abnormal behavior such as circling, lethargy, and unresponsiveness to stimuli. In some cases, deer may also develop a drooping lower lip, a condition known as “lip paralysis.”

As the disease progresses, infected deer may also experience weight loss, dehydration, and an overall decline in health. In some cases, the disease can be fatal, particularly in young deer and those with weakened immune systems.

It is important to note that the clinical signs of bullwinkle deer disease can be similar to those of other neurological conditions, and a definitive diagnosis can only be made through laboratory testing.

Diagnosis

Diagnosis of bullwinkle deer disease typically involves the examination of brain tissue from infected animals. Postmortem examination of the brain can reveal the presence of amyloid plaques, which are characteristic of the disease. In some cases, live animal testing can also be used to detect the presence of the disease, although this method is less reliable than postmortem examination.

Treatment

There is no known cure for bullwinkle deer disease, and infected animals will eventually die from the disease. Management strategies are focused on reducing the spread of the disease and minimizing its impact on wildlife populations.

Management

There are currently no effective treatments for bullwinkle deer syndrome. However, there are steps that can be taken to reduce the likelihood of the disease spreading to healthy populations.

Preventative measures include minimizing contact between infected and uninfected deer populations, removing infected individuals from the population, and increasing surveillance efforts to detect new cases. The use of feeding stations, where deer congregate in large numbers, should be avoided, as this increases the risk of disease transmission.

Hunting and culling infected individuals may be necessary in certain situations, but it is important to take into account the potential impact on the overall population before implementing such measures.

Additionally, it is important to educate the public, particularly hunters, about the risks of spreading the disease through the transport of infected deer carcasses. Hunters should be encouraged to dispose of carcasses in designated areas and to avoid moving potentially infected animals from one location to another.

Overall, a comprehensive management approach that includes surveillance, prevention, and education is necessary to effectively control the spread of bullwinkle deer syndrome and protect deer populations from this devastating disease.

Conclusion

Bullwinkle deer is a serious disease affecting elk and other members of the deer family, caused by the parasitic worm Parelaphostrongylus tenuis. The disease is prevalent in regions with high populations of white-tailed deer and is often associated with wetlands and marshy areas.

Bullwinkle deer can cause significant neurological damage to infected animals, leading to severe physical disabilities and sometimes death. It is crucial for wildlife managers and researchers to identify and monitor infected animals to prevent the spread of the disease and to better understand its impact on elk and other deer populations.

Although there is no known cure for bullwinkle deer, early diagnosis and management can improve an infected animal’s chance of survival. Research efforts should focus on understanding the disease’s ecology, transmission, and potential long-term impacts on wildlife populations.

As humans continue to encroach on natural habitats and modify the landscape, it is crucial to understand and address the impacts of diseases like bullwinkle deer on wildlife populations. Through effective management and research efforts, we can work towards mitigating the disease’s impact and ensuring the health and survival of elk and other members of the deer family.

Sources:

  1. Foreyt, W. J. (1985). Parelaphostrongylus tenuis: epidemiology of infection in elk and deer in the Pacific Northwest. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 21(4), 381-390.
  2. Gibbs, E. P. (1976). Parelaphostrongylus tenuis infection in wapiti (Cervus elaphus nelsoni) and roosevelt elk (Cervus elaphus roosevelti) in western North America. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 12(1), 49-57.
  3. Rosatte, R. C., & Pybus, M. J. (1978). The biology and control of Parelaphostrongylus tenuis in North America. Advances in Parasitology, 16, 213-274.
  4. Severson, N. R., & Skorping, A. (2005). Effects of Parelaphostrongylus tenuis on fitness components of white-tailed deer. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 41(2), 271-277.
  5. Zarnke, R. L., & Ver Hoef, J. M. (1989). Ecological and epidemiological studies of Parelaphostrongylus tenuis in southcentral Alaska. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 25(1), 101-107.

Further Reading:

  1. Foreyt, W. J. (2001). Parasitism in elk and deer in North America. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 37(3), 519-530.
  2. Kutz, S. J., & Hoberg, E. P. (2014). Parasites in ungulates of Arctic North America and Greenland: a view of contemporary diversity, ecology, and impact in a world under change. Advances in Parasitology, 85, 429-686.
  3. Pybus, M. J., Samuel, W. M., & Kocan, A. A. (2001). Parasitic diseases of wild mammals. Iowa State University Press.
  4. Additional reading available on https://www.northeastwildlife.org

12 Best Compound Bow Stabilizers to Boost Accuracy in 2024

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Our Favorite Compound Bow Stabilizers from Mathews, Limbsaver, TRUGLO & More

Look at you, smart feller, searching for the next piece of the archery puzzle. Savvy hunters like you need the skinny on 2024’s best compound bow stabilizers for your hunting rig, and, by George, you’ve come to the right place. With hunting season fast approaching, get your bow dialed in now and not the week before the season starts.

Some sports, like football and golf, are a game of inches. The sport of hunting can be a game of millimeters. One smidge to the left, you hit the shoulder, wound your game, and it’s never to be seen again. Or, if shooter panic sets in and you float your pin too high, you may miss the vitals completely.

Situations like this are heartbreaking, which is why you need a good stabilizer to help steady your shot, increase accuracy, and extend your range. To help you find the best solution, I created this guide with 2024’s top options, from the best vibration dampening front stabs to the world’s elite front, back, and sidebars for increased balance.

The products on this list encompass a wide range from the who’s who of stabilizer brands like BeeStinger, Limbsaver, Mathews, CBE, Dead Center, and more. I’ve also included some friendly, affordable options for those hunting on a budget.

No matter what you’re looking for, you’ll find something tailor-made for you on this list of 2024’s best compound bow stabilizers. Buckle up, and let’s get this show on the road.

Why Do You Need a Bow Stabilizer for Hunting?

Target archers have been using stabilizer bars to fine-tune their shots for a long time; I’m talking about the long and fancy contraptions you see extending as much as 30 inches from their bows. On the other hand, you’ve likely also seen shorter stabilizers on the front of hunting bows.

So, what’s the difference? In short, longer stabilizers are more focused on balancing your compound bow, which creates less pin float, and short stabilizers that come standard on hunting bows are more for vibration reduction than for balance.

You may wonder, why do I need a stabilizer when hunting? Why are some people using longer stabilizers and more complex front, back, and sidebars when hunting? Which type of stabilizer is going to work best for me?

If you’re asking these questions and are a bit newer to the sport, here are some important concepts you need to understand before purchasing a stabilizer:

Standard Front Stabilizers for Compound Bows

Best Overall Bee Stinger MicroHex

Lengths: 6″, 8″, 10″, 12″ Materials: Lightweight counterveil carbon Weights: Three 1 oz weights included

“No games, no gimmicks.” That’s how Bee Stinger promotes their stabs. They’ve tapped into the minds of their customers and learned one valuable lesson that second-rate pretenders never seem to understand: hunters want their archery gear to function as advertised.

The MicroHex line is their most popular stabilizer to date because it has everything a hunter needs to customize their setup to their specific needs and style. The weights stay snug where you want them to and can be adjusted easily to balance your shot.

I like BeeStinger’s MicroHex for two main reasons. First, they make their rods with cutting-edge materials with counter-veil anti-vibration carbon used in fighter jets. Second, their mounting studs have teeth that forcefully clamp down when screwed to your compound bow. A solid fit prevents slop and creates a rigid and seamless energy distribution throughout your shot.

Best High-End Mathews Flatline

Lengths: 6″, 8″, 10″, 12″ Materials: High modulus carbon fiber, stainless steel machined weights Weights: Comes with one 1-oz weight, but you can purchase more here

If you’re shooting a flagship bow, and want maximum performance during the process, grab this top-notch stabilizer from Mathews. Many users claim there’s no better tech on the market.

The Flatline is made from ultralightweight carbon fiber that utilizes the industry’s top anti-vibration and noise-dampening technology. When you combine this feature with Mathews’ patented harmonic dampener — which spools extra energy during your shot and then releases it at the perfect moment of inertia — you’ve got one Steady Eddie on your hands.

Mathews markets this professional tool for any type of shooter, whether experienced, novice, or somewhere in between. It’s compatible with a v-bar bracket and can customize weights for your exact needs. The different ways you can mod this stabilizer to your setup are endless, and if it’s in your budget, you should consider it seriously.

Top-Notch New Product for 2024 Axcel Archery Antler Ridge

Lengths: 6″, 8″, 10″, 12″ Materials: Ultra-high carbon, cutting-edge flax material Weights: Four 1 oz weights included + 1 oz dampener on the end

Stabilizers are only as good as the materials they’re made from. Axcel Archery’s newest line is made from the latest and greatest technology and is designed meticulously to set itself apart in an otherwise flooded marketplace.

The Antler Ridge is the only stab on the market to feature Axcel Archery’s all-new Flax material, which has never been seen in the world of stabilizers. Flax is one of the most anti-vibration-friendly materials in the world and plays perfectly with its rigid and lightweight design.

The cool graphics and personalized color options have nothing to do with performance, but they do let you know one thing: Axcel Archery created a product that stands out in every possible way, from its technology to its aesthetic.

Best for the Money Limbsaver LS Hunter Micro Lite

Lengths: 8″ Materials: Small diameter carbon Weights: 5.6 oz + ability to add more weight as needed

At around 90 bucks, the Limbsaver LS Hunter Micro Lite isn’t the cheapest stab on this list. I do believe it offers the best value you’ll find, however, in that it lands at an approachable price point without sacrificing high-end features.

This streamlined, wind-resistant, small-diameter eight-inch carbon bar is designed specifically for hunters and will handle all the rugged demands of the backcountry while helping you maneuver through the tightest situations. Whether in a treestand, blind, or even a mountain hunter traversing over craggy rocks, you’ll find its compact, forward-thinking design very useful.

Its superb balancing comes from heavier-than-usual front weights that tip the scales at around 5.6 ounces. You can add or subtract weights as needed to create a more dialed-in feel. The Limbsaver LS Hunter Micro Lite will work for anyone who wants a no-fuss solution for their next hunt.

Affordable but High-Tech Option TRUGLO Cadence

Lengths: 8″ Materials: CNC Aluminum Weights: 8.5 oz

From bow releases to bow stabilizers, TRUGLO is an industry leader in high-quality archery equipment. When it comes to stabilizers, they’ve truly outdone themselves by engineering the Cadence stabilizing bar with the average bowhunter in mind. TRUGLO talks the talk and walks the walk.

Since I’m on a budget this year, I will pull the trigger and grab myself one of these bad boys for the upcoming archery season. It has a rigid bar made from CNC aluminum that doesn’t have any give during your shot and is treated with a quiet, soft-touch coating, making it perfect for spot-and-stalk hunters that want to eliminate noise.

Much like the Mathews Flatline, the TRUGLO Cadence has a vibration dampener that reduces noise and play in your shot. As a matter of fact, it has two dampeners, and what’s even more incredible is that it costs one-third of the price of the Flatline.

Best Budget Stabilizer SAS CNC All Aluminum

Lengths: 5″, 8″, 11″ Materials: Aluminum Weights: 5.3 oz, 6.5 oz, 10 oz

Too many hunters and “ethical” outdoorsmen clown on people for asking about budget hunting gear. I can’t count the times I’ve heard in forums and Facebook groups, “Why would you buy X when Y is so much better?” I’ll tell you why: not everyone has a Mathews budget.

Regular folks have lives, kids, jobs, and priorities that take precedence over high-priced and top-end gadgets. However, just because they’re trying to save money doesn’t mean they lack the desire to be prepared and have a stable shot.

Luckily, if you’re on a budget, you can still have your cake and eat it too. SAS’s CNC stab is one of the highest-rated and most affordable stabilizers on the market and comes in various sizes and colors. Most importantly, it does precisely what you’ll need it to: stabilize your shot by reducing vibration and balancing the weight of your compound bow.

Made in the USA Viper SX Aluminum

Lengths: 6″, 8″, 10″, 12″ Materials: Aircraft grade aluminum Weights: 4 oz + ability to customize in 1/2 oz increments

Made right here in the good ol’ US of A, the Viper SX sits up near the top in terms of performance and lands at a very attractive price point. It boasts rigid strength thanks to its aluminum end caps and wind-resistant, lightweight rod that keeps the overall weight at a minimum.

Viper SX does utilize some serious balancing weights, however, as it’s equipped with one four-ounce weight at the end of the shaft. The combination of its lightweight bar and well-placed steel weights gives it superior balance by placing the weight where you need it most.

Furthermore, you can remove the end weight and add a variety of configurations that Viper offers. It comes in four lengths and is easy to make into a front and back bar kit using a v-bar bracket. Considering all its versatility comes at a lower cost than its higher-priced counterparts, what’s not to love?

Bow Stabilizer Kits (Front and Back Bars)

Best Overall Kit Dead Center Dead Level Verge V2

Lengths: 6-8″, 8-10″ Materials: Vibration dampening carbon Weights: Some with six 1 oz weights; you can purchase more here

Gone are the days of your stabilizer bars vibrating loose. With this v-bar setup from Dead Center, you can rest assured that your stabilizers will be rock solid when that shot of a lifetime presents itself.

If you want the most steady shot possible, join the ranks of archers who shoot with an added back bar. They’re increasing in popularity, and what was usually more mainstream among target shooters is becoming commonplace in the field. (For what it’s worth, I only rock a front stabilizer, but I don’t shoot with a quiver attached or have issues with pin float.)

If you want to join the bandwagon and aren’t out here taking any chances, look no further than the Dead Center Dead Level Verge 2. It’ll come perfectly tuned with the right amount of weight straight out of the box, and its light bars will hold steady against your bow. With a kit like this, you’ll be able to take long-range shots with a high degree of confidence.

distribution

Best High-End Kit Bee Stinger Sport Hunter

Lengths: 6-8″, 8-10″ Materials: SRX Carbon Rods Weights: Two 2oz weights on each side

Here we go again with Bee Stinger. Some hunters may say I’m a bit of a fanboy, but I have zero shame plugging their stellar products. My job is to pair my readers with products that won’t let them down on their 2022 hunt, after all.

The Bee Stinger Sport Hunter is tailor-made for the craft of chasing game, as its features are cleverly designed to accommodate hunters. It has a low profile to help you get through sticky situations and can be easily adjusted in a variety of scenarios.

The Sport Hunter has everything you could ask for from a stabilizer kit: maneuverability, ease of use, quick disconnect brackets, and an adjustable weight system. Now all you need is for some critters to show up so you can show them how steady your shot is.

Best Mid-Range Kit CBE Torx

Lengths: 7.5 – 11″ Materials: High mod lightweight carbon Weights: Two 2 oz weights on each bar; if you want more customization, grab a few more here

Next time you’re at the range, check out what types of stabs other archers are rocking. I kept a close eye on other shooters my last time out and saw loads of them using the CBE Torx. When I asked one guy why he was using this kit, they responded that it’s simple to use and easily adjustable to his bow.

The rods on CBE Torx are made from lightweight carbon, and their interchangeable weights are placed towards the end of the bar with precision. This customization makes for a great balancing act when shooting from any position.

If you want a set-it-and-forget-it stab that doesn’t rattle loose when climbing in your tree stand or crawling through some thick oak scrub, look closely at the CBE Torx. It has many of the same features and weight distribution as others on this list but will cost you a little bit less dinero for the entire kit.

Editors Choice Stabilizer Kit Trophy Ridge Hitman

Lengths: 6-8″, 8-10″, 10-12″ Materials: Durable target carbon Weights: Two 2 oz weights per bar; you can find more here

Would you get a load of the Hitman stabilizer kit? It’s right up there with the best in terms of research and development but with a much more approachable price tag. Trophy-Ridge really stands out in this class of stabilizers in form, function, and cost. They’re out here playing chess while everyone else is playing checkers.

The Hitman’s standout features include a unique design that allows for effortless energy transfer through its carbon rod and two cleverly placed dampener rings. It’s lightweight, compact, won’t be affected much by the wind, and comes standard with a top-notch v-bar bracket that the user can easily adjust for a custom feel.

Why is this the editor’s choice stabilizing kit, you ask? Well, in my opinion, it leads the pack in quality, performance, and consistency. In a sport where every millimeter matters, the Hitman series of stabilizers won’t let you down. If, at this point, you’re still confused about which stabilizer kit to go with, snatch this one up. You can thank me later.

Best All-in-One Stabilizer Bar Bee Stinger Counterslide MicroHex

Lengths: 10″, 12″, 15″ Materials: Five 1 oz weights; need more? Grab them here Weights:

If you want both a front and back bar stabilizer, go with a v-bar setup like the Bee Stinger Counterslide MicroHex. It’s more of a sidebar than a stabilizer kit, but many hunters prefer it since it keeps their weight down while still allowing them to have reliable balance in their shot.

Here’s my issue with this setup: unlike a v-bar setup in which you can move in centimeter increments at an angle, the Counterslide can’t be adjusted away from your bow. It stays in a straight line. That said, some hunters swear by this style, and if you’re one of them, the Bee Stinger Counterslide is as good as it gets.

This system is useful since it allows you to move your bar forward or back with a dovetail mount, meaning you can make adjustments in the field without adding or subtracting weight. Bee Stinger Counterslide’s single bar is also effective for those that shoot with their quiver attached, as it’s pretty remarkable at counterbalancing the side torque caused by an arrow holder.

Add-Ons & Accessories

Factors We An

Sonar for Slabs- Tech Done Right, by Ed Mashburn

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Good sonar units can make the difference between fish in the boat and just a boat ride. (Photo: John Phillips)

Sonar for Slabs- Tech Done Right, by Ed Mashburn

Setting up and using sonar fish finders properly is important elements of good crappie fishing.

Of all the tools used by crappie anglers, probably no other modern development has made more fish come over the side of the boat than sonar fish finders. These amazing little black boxes can help anglers find crappie that would otherwise be completely passed over. These electronic marvels show the angler what lies below the surface with remarkable detail and clarity.

But just because a crappie angler buys a sonar unit and plugs it in, that doesn’t guarantee best results. Like most fishing tools, sonar fish finders can be used well or poorly, and most crappie anglers can improve their fishing performance with their fish finders.

Help from an Expert

Tony Adams fishes for crappie a lot both as a guide and for his own enjoyment in the lakes of eastern Alabama. A vital part of his crappie fishing success comes from his use of technology- the sonar fish finder.

Modern sonar units with a down imaging view reveal extreme structure and fish details. (Photo: John Phillips)

Adams says, “My best advice to anyone wanting to use electronics to catch more crappie is to invest in a quality product with good imaging. I highly recommend Humminbird products, especially the Helix 12.”

Of course, the latest craze among hardcore crappie anglers is the Garmin Panoptix LiveScope outlined in another article in this issue [HOTLINK TO FRAZEE LIVESCOPE ARTICLE]. Lowrance also offers many comparable units to the Helix as well as their version of the Garmin LiveScope called Livesight.

Adams says, “I’m using the Helix12 and I find it’s great for locating crappie. It has a large 12-inch screen that’s easy to see. It is hard to see crappie on the small screens.”

The Helix 12 is almost as expensive as the Garmin LiveScope, depending upon the whistles and bells you include. However smaller Helix units, such as the Helix 7, are available for just a few hundred dollars.

“The Helix has great side-imaging which helps to find the structure and the crappie. After finding the structure, I use the down-imaging to get a better look at the fish. The Helix 12 has all the features you will need to find crappie, and I often use the mapping and boat navigation features of the unit. The only feature I pass on is the 360 imaging, but others may find that feature handy.”

Modification to Factory Settings

Standard sonar views (left) don’t always show good definition or detail to tell the difference between bottom structure and fish. However, units with good down imaging (right) reveal more detail allowing an angler to tell the difference between structure and fish. (Photo: Ed Mashburn)

Anglers often find that the settings of any fish finder unit out of the box may not be the optimum for finding crappie. Some units can be more difficult to adjust, and anglers need to investigate the ease of making setting changes before purchase.

“The setup and adjustment of the Humminbird unit is easy, said Adams. “The changes I’ve made to the factory settings is to adjust the sensitivity and contrasts. I set this unit’s sensitivity at 10 and Contrast at 19. I put my down sensitivity at 12 and DI contrast at 10.”

By making changes to suit particular anglers and waters, crappie anglers can maximize the performance of any sonar fish finder.

How He Uses the Unit

Crappie anglers searching for the best concentrations of crappie need to know what they’re looking for. It’s a busy world down under the surface of the water, and there are lots of things which can confuse both a fish finder and an angler. It takes some time and experience to fully understand or interpret exactly what the screen is showing, and most crappie anglers new to the sonar game experience some confusion at the start.

My best advice to anyone wanting to use electronics to catch more crappie is to invest in a quality product with good imaging.

Adams says, “When searching for good crappie concentrations, I look for clusters of dots or specks on the screen gathered in and around the structure. After finding the structure with side imaging, I go to down imaging for a better look at the depth of the fish.”

Crappie themselves will often show a stronger, definite return image, and most of the time, there will be several individual returns. Crappie, after all, are schooling fish.

Bait fish are shown a “cloud” above the “22 ft.” readout. Crappie are the individual dots to the right. (Photo: Ed Mashburn)

And quite often smart anglers won’t look only for the crappie. Finding baitfish is crucial in finding crappie. Crappie will follow school of shad and other smaller baitfish, and when bait is found, the crappie will be close. But finding bait is not as easy- the individual shad for example are small and give a poor individual sonar return. But put those little shad in a big school, and there is something for the sonar to read. Adams says, “Bait fish will look like clouds and will not be as defined as the crappie.”

But when an angler finds a “cloud” return on the screen with stronger, larger “dots” around, this is a spot which demands fishing attention. When crappie are closing associated with the “cloud” of bait, they are usually feeding actively, and a bait or lure dropped to them will usually get results.

Finding structure is key with fish finder use for crappie. The structure is what holds the bait and the bait is what attract the big crappie. Adams adds, “On the structure, I look for trees, stumps, humps and ledges. That’s one reason I really like using this Humminbird unit. You will see definition of the structure with the crappie in and around it.”

For crappie anglers who would like to contact Tony Adams for a Lake Eufaula crappie trip, you will find him on Facebook or by calling 334-695-3003.

(Ed Mashburn is a retired school teacher, outdoor writer and photographer. He lives in southern Alabama, but he fishes for anything – carp and trout in Arizona, smallmouth bass and crappie in Wisconsin to snook and snapper in the Florida Keys.)

Best Deer Attractants [#1 Is A Must-Have]

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Before the season begins, and once the scouting is over, sometimes you realize that you might need a little extra help when it comes to attracting those deer. Why waste your time with a simple corn pile? Why not go out and get the best deer attractant to guarantee success?

While searching for the top options, it’s important to remember that there are several kinds out there – Spread, Spray, Plot, Mineral, etc. Each type provides its own pros and cons, as well as the best picks within each category.

This blog focuses on the four major types of deer attractants and calls out the attractant we think is best for its intended purpose. Enjoy the comparison chart below and some top questions we decided to answer before choosing a deer attractant.

Full Disclosure: Some of the links below may be affiliate links. If you follow an affiliate link and end up making a purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Best Overall Deer Attractant

Wildgame Innovations Acorn Rage

While it might not be the newest item on the list, it sure has been time-tested – and the results speak for themselves. The Wildgame Innovations Acorn Rage deer attractant is our top pick for 2024 because it’s the most popular and highly reviewed option on the market.

The Acorn Rage pretty much guarantees deer will come to your stand, and it’s something I can personally attest to. I’ve not only used this attractant for the past several hunting seasons, but I’ve noticed that deer are more likely to return to areas where this used.

It’s widely known that acorns are at the top of the list when it comes to prized deer food, and what’s more convenient than having it an easy to disperse pack?

Pro Tip: Deer attractant minerals release slowly over time, and can create an active mineral site for up to a year, improving your deer feeder location over time.

Other Top Technological Features include the following:

This blend is made out of 100% real acorns and roasted soybeans to create a nutritional snack with jam-packed scent. It’s also combined with Wildgame’s Airborne Technology which disperse 600% more scent particles than standard feed – WOW! You can mark this down as a solid long-range buck attractant too.

As far as actual specifications, the mix is 17% fat and 28% protein, with 11% fiber. It’s also high in rack nutrition and can be used year around (similar to other deer protein feeds). Because of this, man hunters say this is the best deer attractant for summer.

Best Deer Attractant - Wildgame Innovations Acorn Rage

Best Deer Attractant Spray

Nationwide Scents Scrape Lure Deer Attractant Urine

Nationwide Scents has been producing authentic, field tested scents for nearly 20 years, and they continue to be a reliable tool for many deer hunters. Their Scrape Lure Deer Attractant Urine is our top deer attractant spray for 2024 because of the authentic urine collected from Nationwide.

The Pure Active deer attractant spray is a great option for year around use, but does exceptionally well in early to late rut. The performance is all in the recipe, which is above industry standard. Check this out:

Fun Fact: Nationwide Scents is the largest deer urine collection company in the world.

Other top technological features include the following:

Nationwide Scents facility holds over 600 live whitetail deer and collects all urine in their state-of-the-art stainless-steel facility. Additionally, it’s all collected fresh that season for best results.

As far as quality, the company is a certified member of the RHSA and all of their scents are CWD certified free. If you don’t like it, Nationwide Scents guarantees all of their products and will make the purchase right!

Of course, from personal experience, I’m not that big of a fan of liquid lures just because they are so messy. I always

Nationwide Scents Active Scent

Best Deer Attractant To Plant

Antler King No Sweat, No-Till Plot Mix

All whitetail deer hunters would love to create their own multi-acre food plot, ensuring they have a solid setup for the season. However, not everyone has the land or the equipment to get it done. The Antler King No Sweat, No-Till is the best deer attract to plant because it requires minimal tools and effort to reach its full potential.

The No Sweat, No-Till deer attractant mix is great for those with limited space, or if you’ve found a nice pocket but can’t get equipment to it. If you’re asking, “Is it really no till?” then the answer is – YES! Antler King has created a shade tolerant mix that will grow almost anywhere with minimal preparation.

This attractant is a mix of perennial and annual seeds that can be planted in either Spring of Fall. Additionally, it also contains varieties of oats, rye, clover, canola and more.

One final note, Antler King has provided a handy food plot mix chart for all their products!

Antler King Plot Mix

Best Mineral Deer Attractant

Big & J Headrush

Big & J is best known for taking salt based supplements (which deer love) and using added technology to advance their performance. This is best established in the strongest mineral deer attractant we could find – the Big & J Headrush.

The Headrush deer attractant is a perfect combination of pure supplement and attractant for whitetail deer hunters across the nation. The added Calcium is key to antler growth, while the product’s Bioavaible Trace Minerals contribute to overall herd health.

The attractant’s greatest feature is their BB2 Aroma, which creates a strong scent that will pull in deer from long ranges. This concoction, which contributes to a deer’s energy level, is a property blend that drives deer wild!

Honestly, the science in this product is just too much to summarize. For a full story about all its benefits, check out the link below to be amazed even more.

BJ Headrush

FAQs When Buying Deer Attractant

1. What Is The Best Deer Attractant To Mix With Corn?

Overall, the best deer attractant to mix with corn is going to be the GYT 90 liquid mix.

This particular nutritional supplement combination is great during the summer months as deer are more accustomed to consuming corn with agricultural fields being so prevalent.

This mix also provides great benefits during the winter months. The high fat crude soybean oil serves as a strong attractant, helps them gain weight, and provides many essential minerals for antler growth.

2. What’s The Best Deer Attractant For Late Season?

Attracting deer during late season can be difficult as traveling patterns are quickly becoming more disrupted. Priorities obviously change for both younger and older bucks, while does split and go beyond their normal feeding trails.

And to locate the feeding trails, try to pay attention to deer poop and what it means. If you find an a large amount of deer pellets in one location, that look to be evenly spread out, this is a great indicator of a feeding location. Deer typically defecate frequently while grazing.

You might be able to attract deer with a stronger acorn or apple scent mix, or by using active scape scents like those provided by Nationwide Scents. However, it’s going to be somewhat difficult with a standard spread mix or simple corn pile.

Keep in mind that as it gets colder air odor molecules move more slowly through the air, making it tougher to pick up scent. As a result, using long range mineral scent attractants can combat this if combined with beneficial wind conditions.

3. Can You Make Homemade Deer Attractant?

Yes, you can make homemade deer attract very easily. For the best homemade DIY deer attractant recipes check out the links below:

Animals Mom

Gone Outdoors

Feather Net Outdoors

4. Does Molasses Attract Deer?

Yes, molasses can be used to attract deer due to its strong and sweet aroma. Most standard attractant blocks use molasses as a bonding agent to hold everything together while enhancing the scent.

Survival Qualities: The Necessary Traits of the Survivalist

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While preparing for another survivalist challenge, I thought to myself – what does it take to become a successful survivalist, what mindset should any of us possess? After some extensive research, I compiled a list of characteristics and qualities that many survival-minded folks have in common.

So, what are the necessary survival qualities? Here is the short list:

  1. Adaptability – you need to survive in any environment.
  2. Self-control – cooler heads prevail.
  3. Resourcefulness – taking advantage of your surroundings.
  4. The ability to learn – absorbing new methods and knowledge.
  5. Motivation – the strong desire to survive.

But is this the complete list? And how do we acquire and learn these qualities? Let’s explore the mindset of a survivor even further.

Survival Qualities and Traits – The Comprehensive List

1. Adaptability

This skill is probably inherited by each and every one of us after millions of years of evolution. It is the survival of the fittest, after all. The better you adapt to new circumstances and environments, the higher are your chances to survive. You need to be flexible, you need to be capable of changing your plans accordingly to unexpected scenarios. Situations and surroundings might change for the worse and they won’t care about what you planned so far. Keep your ears pricked; keep your mind open and alert; keep your body ready to do things differently.

2. Self-control

A true survivalist should be able to control his emotions. That does not mean that he or she is a cold-hearted slab of stone. What it actually means is that you always remain calm in the face of any unforeseeable danger or situation. You can be aware of your natural emotional reactions, you may experience agitation, anger, fear, and so on. Yet you will not let those feelings cloud your rational decision-making processes. It’s a tough quality to master, but it’s very rewarding. Whatever difficulty comes your way, you will not panic. Instead, you will assess it with a cool, concentrated mind and act accordingly.

3. Resourcefulness

Once you adapt and calmly judge the situation, this trait will become handy and even crucial to your prolonged survival. How do you overcome this challenge? How do you use the environment to your advantage? Where is the shelter, food, water? How can you use the gear you’ve prepared in this situation? Can you make fire? Can you filter the water? Can you find north? As a resourceful person, you can bend the situation to your needs, you can use your surroundings to your benefit.

4. The Ability to Learn

Learning is the key to preparedness. Survivalists are smart and capable of educating themselves. This quality goes hand in hand with the flexibility and open-mindedness that I’ve mentioned earlier. Just like you adapt to a new situation, your mind needs to be open and flexible for a new information. A survivalist is always willing to absorb new knowledge and to incorporate it with previously accumulated facts and methods. There are countless ways for you to learn something new that will make you even more prepared. There are books, videos, blogs (such as this one), you can even look for mentors and experienced teachers.

If you are eager to learn, I would honestly recommend “SAS Survival Handbook: The Ultimate Guide to Surviving Anywhere”, which you can get on Amazon. It has every possible aspect of survival knowledge and technology, and the latest edition covers such new topics as terrorism and urban survival. The books teaches you about being prepared, making camp, finding food, first aid, disaster survival, and so much more.

5. Motivation

Motivation is the driving force behind your will to survive. It should be constantly with you: when you’re learning, when you’re managing to keep your emotions in check, when you’re adapting to new challenges and resourcefully taking advantage of the environment. Whatever comes your way, you need to have the inner desire to survive, whether alone or with your loved ones. Motivation keeps you going, keeps you afloat. It makes you focused on your goals, on the things that must be done in order to survive under every possible condition.

Here are a few more words about survivalist’s motivation:

Aren’t There More Useful Qualities and Traits Than Just These Five?

Of course there are more! While the aforementioned survival traits stood out during my research, here are additional characteristics you should hone as well.

Realism

A survivalist is neither a complete pessimist, nor a blind optimist. He sees things realistically, without tainting them with any subjective colors and filters. He recognizes the needs and the means to fulfill those needs. He realizes the gravity of any situation, estimates the danger and thinks about the ways he can cope with the situation. He does not tend to see the situation as hopeless, nor does he think that everything will turn out just fine and dandy. The reality is a complex thing, it never just positive or negative, and the survivor sees it for what it is. A good self-control will help your realism.

Stubbornness

This might seem like a trait that negates the suggested flexibility and adaptability, but stubbornness actually completes them. It basically means adopting the “never give up” attitude. You stubbornly pledge to survive, you stick to your goals no matter what, and proceed using the tools mentioned earlier (self-control, resourcefulness, etc.) as well as physical skills you’ve learnt. This is not about being dense and ignoring everything as you plow forward. This is about being persistent and resilient, about believing in what you can do and encouraging yourself to overcome any hardship.

Healthy Well-Being

Without sounding too poetic, your body is the vessel for your mind. You need to have a healthy attitude towards your physical well-being. Now, I don’t intend to preach what you should eat and how much you need to exercise. But your body is what will execute the orders sent by your will and your desires. Your body is you; take care of it. Take care of yourself, stay fit, train, improve your stamina. A healthy spirit can only thrive within a healthy body.

Our greatest happiness does not depend on the condition of life in which chance has placed us, but is always the result of a good conscience, good health, occupation, and freedom in all just pursuits.

– Thomas Jefferson

How Can I Learn and Improve These Abilities?

These qualities are not set in stone. You can improve and refine them. The key is open-mindedness as well as a will to change. Learn from your mistakes, always challenge what you know and what you believe in. Understand what every quality means, how it applies to you, and what you can do to master it.

For instance, self-control. Recall all situations in which your emotions got the best of you. What could you do to react better? How are you going to react in a similar situation in the future? Try yourself in a real situation. What do you feel when confronting the same people or circumstances? Can you let go of that emotion, if it gets in your way?

As far as the traits like adaptability and resourcefulness go, you can develop them all the time. Join various survival challenges and try yourself in different environments. Calmly estimate your successes and failures, but do not judge yourself harshly. It’s a learning process, you will do better next time.

The same goes for motivation and stubbornness. Always stick to your missions and goals, no matter what obstacles you might encounter along the way. Look at yourself objectively, notice the weaker spots in your determination. Think what causes them and what you need to solve to become a better survivor.

Always nourish your learning ability. Look for new information and challenge old preconceptions. The books and the Internet are rich with knowledge on survival and preparedness. Of course, not every information out there is legit, use your common sense, take any new knowledge with a grain of salt. Learning does not mean just mindlessly taking the new data in, you need to be smart about it. Incorporate new information wisely, trust your instincts and truly become a smart survivalist.

For a really trustworthy well of information and skills, you should check “100 Deadly Skills: Survival Edition: The SEAL Operative’s Guide to Surviving in the Wild and Being Prepared for Any Disaster”, a book with hundreds of positive reviews on Amazon. This impressive list of one hundred skills functions as a perfect guide and ensures your survival in the wild, in any climate and terrain. The book, compiled by actual special forces personnel, prepares you for any crisis, so that you stay safe in any calamity or hostile environment.

In addition to this book, I have compiled a list of recommended survival books that you can trust.

Becoming a Better Survivalist: A Tool to Measure Your Progress

Now that you see what it takes to have a great survival mindset, here is a simple tool you can use. It’s a table that lists all the necessary qualities. You can print it as many times as you would like. Then assess yourself, mark how you rate yourself for every trait, on a scale from 1 to 10. Work on those mental skills, strive to become better, and once in a while (let’s say, every two weeks) rate yourself again. Compare with the previous results, observe your progress, and recognize weaker points that you still need to improve.

Related Questions

What makes someone a survivor? A characteristic survivor possesses the skills and qualities mentioned in this post. In a nutshell, a survivor can cope with anything, can find stability within him/herself, no matter what circumstances they are facing at the moment.

Why are survival skills needed? Simply put, they are the deciding factor between life and death. If you are motivated to survive, you will need to master many useful survival skills, such as adapting to anything, starting a fire, making a shelter, using the right tools, and so on.

How to Build a Hog Pit from Concrete Blocks

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Above are some of the old school concrete block pits at Jackie Hite’s Bar-B-Q in Batesburg-Leesville, SC. Below are plans for building your own no-frills pit suitable for a butterflied 75 pound hog, enough to feed about 35 people. It is designed so it can be a temporary structure or you can make it permanent. If you cut the head and remove the trotters at the knees and elbows, you can fit a 100 pounder or more on this rig. But don’t throw away the head and trotters. Just place them on the stretcher next to the torso. If you plan on cooking larger hogs, you can scale this plan up. You must cook with indirect heat. Click here for instructions on how to prep and cook the hog.

illustration of dimensions for hog pit constructed from concrete blocks

Materials

  • SIDES: 54 concrete blocks 16″ x 8″ x 8″ (actually 15.75 x 7.75 x 7.75″). This will get your hog 32 ” above the embers, plus a course to hold the lid. Cost about $54.
  • LID: 4 x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood, cut down to about 44 x 60″ for the lid. Note that Hite uses sheets of cardboard for his lids as seen in the photo above, but I strongly advise against this. He is a master of fire control, and if yours burn, they could ruin the hog. And then you have no lid. Cost about $10. Usually the lid will not be a tight fit. If it is you can crack it open with a stone or make a vent by cutting a hole in it.
  • HEAT SHIELD: Half of a 4 x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood cut down to 20 x 36″ for the optional heat shield. Cost about $10.
  • PROTECTION: 2 rolls heavy duty aluminum foil. Cost about $30.
  • COOKING GRATE: 4 lengths of 48″ each of 3/8″ rebar. You can use a sheet of expanded metal rather than rebar if you wish. Cost about $5 per 10′ bar, 3 bars needed.
  • STRETCHER: Non-climbable uncoated fence wire or rabbit wire at least 14 gauge, 46 x 72″. Do not use galvanized metal because it can give off noxious gases. Cost about $30 for a 50′ roll.
  • STRETCHER HANDLES: 2 boards 1″ x 2″ x 6′ each. Cost about $2.
  • STRETCHER HANDLES: 100 bare wire loop ties, 6″ each. Cost about $2.50.
  • DAMPERS: 2 pieces lightweight sheet metal, about 20″ x 10″ each or you can use sheet pans. They will go over the openings in the sides to help you control oxygen to the coals if it runs too hot. Cost about $15.

Optional

  • More rebar to pound from the top down into the ground to prevent the blocks from shifting. Cost about $15.
  • Mortar to lock the blocks permanently into place. Cost about $10.
  • Lightweight sheet metal for the lid, about 44 x 60″. Cost about $30.
  • Lightweight sheet metal for the heat shield, about 30 x 48″. Cost about $30.
  • 20 bags (40 pounds each) premix concrete for a 3″ thick slab FOR THE BASE AND BOTTOM. Cost about $40.

Tools

  • Fire extinguisher.
  • Wire cutter.
  • Level.
  • Hack saw.
  • Hammer.
  • Chisel.
  • Utility stapler and plenty of staples.
  • Wheel barrow, steel drum, or charcoal grill to start coals.
  • Shovel.
  • Garden hose or buckets of water or fire extinguisher.
  • Good digital oven thermometer.

About the pit

Keep the pit at least 10′ from buildings and overhanging trees in case there is a grease fire. Keep a fire extinguisher rated for grease on hand. Fire extinguishers rated ABC can handle most everything except combustible metals. Beware, they contain a yellow powder that can damage electrical devices.

Start by clearing a base that is 4′ x 5′ by removing grass and prepare an all dirt or sand base at least 2″ thick. You will need to discard some of it when you are done because fat and meat drippings may get in the dirt. The dogs will roll in it and it will attract insects, mice, you name it. If needed, you can buy sand at a hardware store. I recommend lining the pit with aluminum foil.

Make sure the ground is level. Stack the concrete blocks 4 rows high, 3 full lengths and then turn one block on each course, staggering the blocks so they overlap as in the illustration. Notice that I have left out a block on the head and tail side so you can add coals and wood and rake them around. Cover these wholes with a board and a concrete block when they are not in use.

Make notches in the blocks with a hammer and chisel deep enough to hold the rebar so the next course of blocks will lie flat on the course below. Put the rebar on top of the fourth course of blocks. Don’t put the top course of blocks on yet.

The stretcher

To carry the hog and hold it in place on the pit, you need to build a stretcher. It is two poles for the stretcher bearers on either side, and a wire mesh sling in between for the hog. Non-climbable fence wire is heavier gauge and sturdier than chicken wire. You can use chicken wire for but it would be a good idea to use two layers. Make sure the wire is not coated with plastic. For something more permanent, use heavy duty expanded metal mesh. Do not use galvanized, it can create toxins.

Make the sling of the wire wide enough to rest on the rebar and hang over the edges of the pit by at least 1′ on either side. Attach two 6′ lengths of 1″ x 2″ boards for handles with staples and reinforce them with the wire loop ties. Then lay another section of mesh over the top of the first and fasten it to one of the handles, but leave the other open. Attach a handle to the open edge. You then have a reversible stretcher so you can flip the hog.

About the heat shield

I specified a sheet of plywood cut down to 20 x 36″ for an optional heat shield. If you bank your coals to the sides and corners properly you may not need it, but I recommend you have it on hand in case something starts to burn or overcook. This goes on top of the rebar and beneath the stretcher to shield the hog from direct heat. This size leaves space between the shield and the inside of the pit so hot air can rise alongside the shield and bounce off the lid. You will remove it late in the cook when it is time to crisp the skin. Wrap it in aluminum foil and staple down the foil. Don’t worry, it won’t burn unless you have a grease fire because the pig-sitter fell asleep or spent too much time in the toilet. If the pit is to be a permanent structure, make your heat shield from sheet metal, preferably aluminum because it won’t rust.

The cover

Cover the bottom of the plywood lid with foil. If you wish, you can use a sheet metal top instead of plywood.

Other designs for whole hog cookers from readers

Here’s the “Hog Cabin” built by Jacob Hanson of Tucson, AZ. Notice the innovation : He used half width blocks along the sides and put scalloped garden edging to hold the rebar. He also put an access door with an angle iron header. The wood frame holds a removable pitched roof, not shown.

concrete block hog pit with rebar and scalloped garden edging

James Brownfield of Kansas City built this beauty from concrete blocks. On the left is the hog pit and on the right he tacked on a separate vertical smoker. The hog pit side is a little larger than my design: 66″ long (4 blocks), 47″ wide (3 blocks) and 35″ tall (4 blocks) with a 2″ top cap. The interior measures 52″ long by 32″ wide. The cooking grate is 20″ above the coals and he has another grate 10″ under the cooking grate on which he can cover with foil and/or cheap catering pans to catch the grease. Both grates are simply expanded metal that rest on rebar. There’s some pretty nifty metalwork for the pit top, chimney, doors, and smoker shelving. The whole shebang sits on a concrete slab he poured.

concrete block hog pit and vertical smoker

Carl Herbert built this pit. The insert shows the access door on the other side.

concrete and brick hog pit with detail showing access door on other side

From Jim S. This guy built a simple quick and dirty pit, below.

simple concrete hog pit with a chain link fence as a cooking grate

David Wm. Reed of Texas A&M has a good article on roasting cochon au lait, French for suckling pig, and a novel design for a pig roaster with the hog hanging by his hind legs.

10 Best Beginner Compound Bows For Hunting [2024] (Budget…

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This post covers the best beginner compound bows for hunting for both youths and adults. These bows are excellent choices for the money and are also high-quality, making them a great value.

There’s no sense in spending a lot of money if you, a youngster, or someone you’re buying for is just getting into bowhunting. A first bow is supposed to be effective but not break the bank. That said, you don’t want to go too cheap or the bow or its parts might end up breaking or make the bow inaccurate, leading to frustration.

Fortunately, there are some great options on the market that are good quality for the price. I’ve listed some of the best beginner compound bows for hunting below.

This post contains Amazon and other affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my link, at no extra cost to you. Of course, you are not obligated to use my links, but it does help fund these posts in hopes of bringing more value to you!

Best Adult Beginner Compound Bows For Hunting

Bear Archery Cruzer G-2 RTH Compound Bow Package

The Bear G-2 has been one of the best-selling bows for beginners in the industry because it’s a ready-to-hunt (RTH) out-of-box budget compound bow package that has a smooth draw cycle, incredible adjustability, and just feels great in the hand. For these reasons, it’s won the hearts of both youth and adult beginner bowhunters.

It has an adjustable draw length of 12-30 inches and an adjustable draw weight of 5 to 70 lbs. This allows new bowhunters to grow with their bow as they progress. Also, Bear Archery is a reputable brand that has been creating bows for a long time.

As I write this post, you can still get the Cruzer G-2 at a very good price, however, Bear seems to be phasing the G-2 out and replacing it with the G-3, so get it while you can!

Best Compound Bows For Beginners

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Bear Archery Cruzer G-3 RTH Compound Bow Package

The G-3 is the next generation of the G-2. The G-3 has an adjustable draw length of 14-30 inches and an adjustable draw weight of 10 to 70 lbs making it slightly less adjustable than the G-2. However, the reduction in adjustability has given it improvements in performance. The most obvious is the 75% let-off, a +5% increase, making it easier for beginners to hold the bow back. All of the accessories are Trophy Ridge.

10 Best Beginner Compound Bows For Hunting [2024] (Budget…

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10 Best Beginner Compound Bows For Hunting [2024] (Budget…

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10 Best Beginner Compound Bows For Hunting [2024] (Budget…

Check Amazon’s Price

Diamond Archery Edge 320 Compound Bow Package

Diamond is another well-known bow company that makes great bows for beginners. Their Edge 320 is one of the best bows for beginners because of its adjustability. The draw length is adjustable from 15-31 inches, and the draw weight is adjustable from 7-70lbs. You can find this bow at about the same price as the Cruzer G-3.

10 Best Beginner Compound Bows For Hunting [2024] (Budget…

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Diamond by Bowtech Prism Compound Bow Package

The Diamond Prism is another great bow for youngsters and adults. The draw length is adjustable from 18-30 inches which fits the majority of hunters and the draw weight adjustable from 5-55 lbs. This bow can grow with the hunter and with these specs, it will fit both teenagers and adults.

10 Best Beginner Compound Bows For Hunting [2024] (Budget…

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Sanlida Archery Dragon X8 RTH Compound Bow Package

This is one of the most popular hunting bows on Amazon because it’s cheap, adjustable, ready to hunt, and it works. It has an adjustable draw length of 18-31″ and an adjustable draw weight of 0-70 lbs.

The adjustability at this price point makes it one of the best hunting bows for the money. The 31″ max draw length is great for individuals with a longer wingspan. Most bows offer up to a 30″ draw length so it’s great to see a budget bow with a longer draw length.

I’m not sure about the build-quality long term, I suggest buying from a reputable bow company.

10 Best Beginner Compound Bows For Hunting [2024] (Budget…

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Best Youth Beginner Compound Bows For Hunting

These bows are not designed for adults, they are for youth bowhunters only. Bows in this category will likely need to be upgraded once the kids get older and outgrow their bows. These bows are perfect for kids that are younger than teenagers but are adjustable enough to last them through all or most of their teenage years.

These bows offer some better benefits than the highly adjustable bows for both you and adults. For example; they are smaller and lighter weight making them more manageable to hold for smaller and younger kids. Also, they’re generally cheaper for these reasons.

Bear Archery Royale RTH Youth Compound Bow

This is one of Bear Archery’s bows designed specifically for youth hunters. It has an adjustable draw length of 12″-27″, adjustable weights of 5-50lbs, only 27″ inches axel-to-axel, and only 2.7 lbs without the accessories, making it one of the best bows for youngsters, especially for the price.

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PSE Archery Mini Burner RTS Compound Bow Package

The PSE Mini Burner is another great option. It’s a small bow with a lot of adjustability for youth hunters. For example, the bow only weighs 2.5 lbs, the draw weight can be adjusted from 5-40 lbs so any young hunter can pull it back, and the draw length is adjustable from 16 – 26.5 inches. This is one of the best sub-300$ bows for youth hunters.

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Diamond by Bowtech Atomic Youth Compound Bow Package

This is Diamond Archery’s bow is the ultimate youth bow for the youngest bowhunters. The draw length is adjustable from 12-24 inches making, so it fits the smallest of youth hunters. The draw weight is adjustable from 6 to 29 lbs, which makes it too light for deer hunting. But it’s a great bow for hunting smaller animals and introducing youngsters to bowhunting. The bow only weighs 1.9 lbs making it the lightest bow on this list. It’s only 24 inches axle to axle, also making it the shortest bow on this list.

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What To Look For In A Compound Bow For Hunting

In order to get the most for your money there are a few things to consider before purchasing your first bow to ensure you get the most out of it:

Adjustability

For a beginner, a highly adjustable bow is recommended because it will allow the bowhunter to grow with the bow and prevent the bowhunter from outgrowing the bow.

Draw Length

Youth bowhunters will want a bow that has a highly adjustable draw length because it will allow them to grow with the bow instead of outgrowing the bow and needing to buy a new bow.

Draw Weight

An adjustable draw weight is important for youth and adult hunters because as you become stronger you’ll want to increase your draw weight so you can shoot arrows faster, flatter, and more accurately. You’ll also want to be able to start at low poundage and work your way up to higher poundages gradually.

Bow Size (Length, Weight, and Width)

Take into consideration the size of the bow you’re buying. For example, if you’re hunting you might want a short, lightweight, and slim bow that is easy to carry through the brush.

Speed (to an extent)

Speed is important to an extent, but do not fixate on this as a new bowhunter and just buy the fastest bow in your price range. It is better to have a bow that feels good to use.

Draw Cycle Smoothness

The draw cycle has a lot to do with how a bow feels. A smooth drawing bow will feel better in the hand so it is important to try as many bows as you can out to see what you like best before buying a bow.

Let-off

Compound bows are great because they have let-off which reduces the lbs you hold back at full draw. This makes it easier to hold a bow back at full draw for longer periods of time, which is very helpful in hunting situations. Let off is the % of draw weight you are holding at full draw.

So, if you have a 50 lbs draw weight and you have an 80% let-off then you are only holding 10 lbs at full draw. A good let-off is helpful, especially for beginners.

Ready to Hunt Packages

Ready-to-hunt bowhunting packages are great for beginner bowhunters because you don’t have to spend time figuring out all of the accessories for a bow, the bow comes with them. This is a great way to get more for your money too.

As you improve as a bowhunter and learn more you can buy replacement accessories that are of higher quality. This is another great way compound bows grow with you.

Don’t Buy A Used Hunting Compound Bow (Beginners Only)

Many times new bowhunters will buy a used cool-looking bow from someone only to find out that the bow isn’t adjustable enough to fit them. I recommend buying new for your first bow and working with a pro shop to tune the bow and arrows specifically to your body. This way you’ll ensure the bow is shooting the way it is intended to for the most accuracy.

Don’t Buy Soley Based on Bow Specs

It’s important to get your hands on as many compound bows as possible and to try them out in the archery range before spending your money. Each bow will feel different to you. You want the bow that is most comfortable for you.

Print out this list of the best beginner compound bows and bring it with you to the archery shop near you. Try out as many as you can to see what you like best.

Even if you see a better deal online, go into the store and try them out. You’re not obligated to buy a bow after trying them out, so you can go back home and order the one you like best online. This way you’re making a more educated purchase.

More Bowhunting Resources For Beginners:

The Best Anchor Point For Drawing A Bow

27 Best Bowhunting Gifts For Bowhunters In 2024

Top 5 Most Comfortable Tree Saddles For Saddle Hunting [2024]

Reputable Hunting Bow Brands

  • Bear Archery
  • PSE Archery
  • Diamond Archery
  • Mathews Archery
  • Bowtech Archery
  • Hoyt Archery
  • Prime Archery
  • Xpedition Archery
  • Elite Archery

Stores That Carry Hunting Bows

Some great places to find hunting bows include:

  • Amazon – Free Two-Day Shipping For Prime Members
  • Cabela’s – Free Shipping on Orders Over 50$
  • L.L. Bean – Free Shipping on Orders Over 50$
  • Kittery Trading Post
  • Walmart
  • Dick’s Sporting Goods
  • Local Archery Shops

Find Me On:

  • YouTube
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  • Instagram

Can you shoot squirrels with an air rifle?

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“Air rifles for squirrel hunting: A comprehensive guide to legality, safety, and effectiveness. Discover the ins and outs of using air rifles as a humane method for controlling squirrel populations while adhering to regulations and ensuring responsible shooting practices.”

can you shoot squirrels with an air rifle

can you shoot squirrels with an air rifle

When it comes to shooting squirrels with an air rifle, there are a few important considerations to keep in mind. While it is technically possible to shoot squirrels with an air rifle, the legality and ethics surrounding this activity vary depending on your location and local regulations. In some areas, it may be legal to shoot squirrels as a means of pest control or for hunting purposes. However, in other regions, it may be illegal or strictly regulated.

Additionally, the effectiveness of using an air rifle to shoot squirrels depends on various factors such as the caliber of the rifle, distance from the target, and shot placement. Air rifles typically have lower muzzle velocities compared to firearms, which means they may not provide enough power to deliver a humane and instant kill for larger game like squirrels. This can result in wounded animals that suffer unnecessarily.

Before considering shooting squirrels with an air rifle, it is essential to research and understand the laws and regulations specific to your area. It is also crucial to prioritize ethical hunting practices by using appropriate equipment and aiming for clean kills. Consulting with local hunting authorities or experienced hunters can provide valuable guidance on whether using an air rifle for squirrel hunting is suitable and responsible in your particular circumstances.

In conclusion, shooting squirrels with an air rifle is a controversial topic. While some argue it can be an effective method for pest control or hunting, others believe it is unnecessary and inhumane. It is important to consider local laws, ethical considerations, and alternative solutions before making a decision on this matter.

Budget-Friendly Turkey Loads That Still Knock Toms Dead

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Budget-Friendly Turkey Loads That Still Knock Toms Dead

Eight turkey loads that won’t break the bank.

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In recent years, expensive high-end specialty loads—some with price tags of $75 or more—have dominated the shotshell aisles when it comes to spring turkey hunting. And that’s easy to understand as the combination of great hunting techniques, specialty choke tubes, and high-end ammunition products combine to help hunters fill a tag or two on America’s grand game bird of the springtime woods.

So, we asked the question: Are there affordable shotshells available, for say under $40, that will still knock down an old wise gobbler while he struts? Yes, if you know where to look. Better yet, just like what lesser-priced shotshell offerings did for decades prior to the super shot revolution in turkey loads, these more economical loads still put a gobbler’s fan on the wall and a hefty longbeard on the dinner table.

Many of these are available at your local hunting retailer, and some are even on sale right now. If you can’t find them in your own backyard, they are readily available at major online retailers.

Federal Grand Slam

Federal Grand Slam
Federal Grand Slam

A reliable offering from Federal Premium Ammunition, the Grand Slam turkey load uses the Minnesota company’s FLITECONTROL FLEX wad system, which opens from the rear for a controlled release of pellets and pattern density shot after shot, and works in both ported choke tubes and standard choke tubes at the end of the barrel in your turkey scattergun. With an advanced buffering compound kept in place by a roll crimp and clear card wad, the buffering in the shotshell prevents pellet deformation as the copper-plated lead shot travels exits the barrel and choke at 1200 fps. With 10 shotshells (2 3/4-inches) in the box and a portion of the proceeds donated to the National Wild Turkey Federation, this shotshell will help you take a gobbler this spring in the local woods and across the country as you finish out your wild turkey Grand Slam. federalpremium.com | $24.99

Federal Premium 3rd Degree

Federal Premium 3rd Degree shotshells
Federal Premium 3rd Degree

This shotshell from Federal Premium Ammunition actually gets hunters into the specialty turkey load market, without breaking the bank. That’s thanks to Federal’s 3rd Degree turkey load that combines the Minnesota company’s FLITECONTROL FLEX wad and a three-stage payload blend of #5 copper-plated lead shot, #6 FLITESTOPPER lead, and 18g/cc #7 HEAVYWEIGHT TSS (Tungsten Super Shot). The result according to Federal is pattern forgiveness at close ranges, a lethal knockout at mid-range, and extra-dense, high-energy deadly patterns at ranges of 40 yards or more. It’s a bank account friendly, super-charged turkey shotshell that works no matter the shot situation you are presented with this spring. And as with the Grand Slam from Federal Premium, a portion of the proceeds on this mid-30 dollar range box of shotshells will go to the NWTF to help ensure gobblers are roaming the woods for years to come. federalpremium.com | $35.99

Fiocchi Golden Turkey

Fiocchi Golden Turkey
Fiocchi Golden Turkey shotshells

Last year, Fiocchi updated its Golden Turkey Load. With three-inch shells using nickel-plated lead shot, an improved wad, and clean-burning powders, the result is a simple shotshell that remains the gold standard for many gobbler-getters. Whether you’re shooting a 12-gauge and wanting #4, #5, or #6 shot sizes, or a 20-gauge and #5 and #6 shot sizes, these shotshells feature 1 3/4-oz. loads and 1 1/4-oz. loads respectively. And with a 1200 fps payload, high-grade construction, and dense patterns downrange, it’s hard not to like these loads, especially since they check in at under $20. fiocchiusa.com | $19.99

HEVI-Shot HEVI-METAL Turkey

HEVI-Shot HEVI-METAL Turkey
HEVI-Shot HEVI-METAL Turkey shotshells

HEVI-Shot is legendary among waterfowl hunters who need a shotshell that can knock down greenheads at the edge of effective range, or a 20-plus pound Canada goose dropping down into a spread as winds blow during a December snowstorm. But the company is also known for its other high-performance shotshells, and nothing changes in that reputation when we’re talking about a box of HEVI-METAL Turkey loads featuring a blend of #4 and #5 pellets. Add in the company’s Pattern Density Technology to layer in those pellets—including a layer of 30-percent HEVI-Bismuth #5 shot and a layer of 70-percent #4 steel shot-and the result is a hard-hammering load at an amazingly friendly price-point. hevishot.com | $17.99

Kent Ultimate Turkey

Kent Ultimate Turkey
Kent Ultimate Turkey shotshells

Kent is no stranger in the shotshell-making game, producing great waterfowl and upland bird hunting shotshells for years, making them a favorite in many hunter’s duck blinds and hunting vests. But they also produce great turkey hunting shotshells, too, with a price tag that makes them look like they’re left over from a generation ago. Except, they’re not, they’re the latest shotshell from the West Virginia-based ammunition brand that helps turn out the lights every year on lots of wily old mountain toms, swamp gobblers, and prairie strutters. With the Kent Ultimate Turkey Diamond Shot load, hunters in 2024 get consistent tight patterning thanks to Kent’s high antimony, super-hard Diamond Shot loads in #4 and #5 shot sizes. Add in custom blended powders to go with the uniform pellets, and the result on the patterning board is a tight swarm of pellets. kentcartridge.com | $14.95

Remington Nitro Turkey

Remington Nitro Turkey
Remington Nitro Turkey shotshells

Growing up, I was a Remington guy, much like some families are Ford and others are Chevy. I didn’t know any different since the local Gibson’s store where I saved up and bought my first shotgun—yup, a Remington 870—carried the line from the famed American gun maker and ammunition maker that fell on hard times in recent years. With the purchase a while back of Remington’s ammo brands by Federal Premium Ammunition, the chance to run a Remington shell is still there for my 870 (a different one since the original one was stolen out of my truck after a dove hunt) thanks to the Remington Nitro Turkey loads that carry copper-plated, buffered loads that gets delivered by a blended powder recipe. Add in a Power Piston one-piece wad, along with a 1 7/8-oz. payload of shot whistling downrange at 1210 fps and the 80-percent pattern density will still kill a longbeard deader than a hammer. remington.com | $14.99

Winchester Long Beard XR

Winchester Long Beard XR
Winchester Long Beard XR shotshells

In years gone by, most turkey hunters kept their shotgun shooting ranges dialed in at 40 yards or less. But with the advent of great turkey hunting specialty chokes and high-performance loads with TSS (Tungsten Super Shot), bismuth, and more, those effective range distances have been extended in recent years. And thanks to Winchester, that’s true with a 12-gauge or a 20-gauge load that doesn’t break the bank, delivered with the company’s tried-and-true Long Beard XR load. That load has been a winner for Winchester and is billed as the most innovative turkey load ever developed by the longtime leader in ammo manufacturing. That’s achieved thanks to Winchester’s Shot-Lok Technology, which helps bring about amazing consistency and longer downrange capabilities with dense patterns hitting overwhelming a 10-inch circle out to 60-yards. While offering the knockdown power of higher priced loads, this shell delivers a deadly punch to a gobbler’s noggin at an easy to digest price-point, while still allowing turkey hunters to push the limits of what they once thought possible when a longbeard would hang up and refuse to come another step closer. winchester.com | $24.99

Winchester Super-X Turkey Load

Winchester Super-X Turkey Load
Winchester Super-X Turkey Load shotshells

This is a tried-and-true turkey load that has given out a RIP dinner table invite to countless longbeards over the years, my household included. With the Super-X line being a part of Winchester’s lineup in some capacity since 1922, the Super-X series has made lots of wingshooters happy down through the decades, including gobbler-getters like myself. That’s because those hunters have come to rely on the Super-X Turkey load’s copper-plated hard shot, custom blend of powders, and Grex Buffering, which combine to deliver tight patterns at long ranges, a high-velocity payload that turns the lights out on a spring turkey noisily strutting about, and cost-effectiveness. In short, this is a well-rated and dependable shotshell from one of America’s legendary ammunition brands that continues to deliver high-quality construction, superior in-the-field performance, and economic value for hunters looking to fill a turkey tag or two. Even if they don’t want to spend most of a Ben Franklin $100 bill on the shotshells that they put into their turkey vests this spring. winchester.com | $11

About Us | Grand Slam Club – Ovis – WildSheep.org

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2005

GSCO GOES INTO THE CONVENTION BUSINESS

With the vote of the board in early 2004, Campbell, Hollis and two new employees, along with some very dedicated volunteers, went to work preparing for the first GSCO convention to be held in early 2005. The venue chosen was a beautiful facility, the Beau Rivage in Biloxi, Mississippi.

To say that the first GSCO convention was successful is really an understatement. Truthfully, it was wildly successful, which is extremely uncommon for international conventions. Every square inch of convention space was filled to the limit with exhibitors, and the banquets were packed. The auctions raised well over $500,000 to not only help GSCO stabilize financially but to make it possible to expand conservation efforts.

It had already been decided that the GSCO convention would stay at the Beau Rivage for at least two years. Mother Nature decided to change those plans in a rather dramatic way. Hurricane Katrina all but obliterated the Gulf Coast, including the Beau Rivage in Biloxi, in late August 2005, and suddenly GSCO had to go on an emergency shopping trip to find a location for the convention that was to take place six months later.

The search committee was very fortunate in simply moving further up the Mississippi River to Tunica, which was a relatively unknown location but had experienced extreme growth as a gambling town. GSCO signed a two-year contract with the Grand Hotel and Casino in Tunica. The facilities were not nearly as lavish as the Beau Rivage, but were sufficient and obviously GSCO had very few choices at the time.

The 2006 and 2007 conventions in little Tunica, Mississippi, were also amazingly successful. GSCO experienced huge growth in all aspects of a hunting convention. It became apparent that if GSCO wanted to continue to grow, it had to “go west.”

GSCO signed a contract with the Riviera in Las Vegas for 2008 and had a fantastic convention there … the largest and most successful to date. The next two years were spent at Bally’s, also in Las Vegas. The 2011 convention at the Paris Hotel in Las Vegas was very successful as far as monies raised, but that hotel was far too expensive and had so many hidden costs that it created a big dilemma for GSCO.

GSCO was very fortunate then to sign a contract for a much more convention-friendly city, Reno, Nevada, for 2012 through 2015. These years were great, as the Grand Sierra facility there was absolutely perfect for a convention the size GSCO had chosen to hold. The staff at the Grand Sierra and its facilities were as good as one could ever hope to have. Also in 2015, GSCO renamed what had formerly been its “Hunter and Outfitter Convention” to the more comprehensive “Slam Quest Convention.” (More about the Slam Quest name later.)

However, the Grand Sierra went through several management changes during GSCO’s years there. By 2015, it became apparent that they could not continue with the Grand Sierra and the other venues in Reno were not conducive to a GSCO-sized convention.

GSCO was very hesitant to move back to Las Vegas because of being burned in 2011 by the Paris facility. But with a lot of negotiations, the leadership was able to secure an amazing contract back at the Riviera again for 2016. This facility was old but had been remodeled, and was a perfect size. The leadership and staff were stable and easy to work with. GSCO signed a multi-year contract with them.

However, before that 2016 convention could take place, GSCO found itself in almost the same circumstance as back in 2005, when the hurricane hit the Beau Rivage. The Riviera was purchased by the city of Las Vegas and closed later that year. This turned out to be extremely fortuitous for GSCO.

The Westgate Hotel, just down the street from the Riviera, decided to honor the contracts of its now-closed rival. In fact, much of the Riviera management simply transferred to the Westgate. GSCO was able to not only get the same financial contract with the Westgate, but improved upon it. The Westgate is an upscale Las Vegas facility and much better than the Riviera in every way. It was “the place” for a GSCO convention, which has been held there each year since 2016. In fact, GSCO has signed with the Westgate through 2020. Maybe a hurricane will not hit Las Vegas and change those plans!

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