Introduction

I may certainly be biased in my thinking, but I think that first focal plane riflescopes are perhaps the best development of the last couple decades. Sure they existed before then, but they have only become prevalent to the general shooting public over the last ten or fifteen years. Before we get too deep into the subject, lets make sure we both understand what this subject is about. So we are on the same plane so to speak.

Focal Planes

No, I’m not talking about an aluminum lifting body flying through the atmosphere, I’m talking about a point of focus used in your shooting. When you look through a scope and see the magnified image of the target, you are looking through several lenses inside the scope. A first focal plane scope (often called a front focal plane) has the reticle placed effectively before the magnification.

A second focal plane riflescope as you might imagine has the reticle placed after the magnification feature of the scope. These two different construction techniques allow for two differing functions. Most of us have likely used the more traditional second focal plane scope. When the magnification ring is turned and the scope zooms in or out, the reticle remains unchanged. For most of the past, with simple duplex or crosshair reticles, this wasn’t a big deal as the only relevant point on the reticle was the tiny intersecting point at the middle.

As reticle technology has grown over the years, additional points (subtensions) of hold have been added to our reticles. These additional reticle markings are for measuring hits and misses as well as holding wind corrections and holdovers. This is only relevant to the discussion in that the values of these additional points can change when used in a second focal plane optic. In a first focal plane scope, the reticle is magnified with the image. As the scope zooms in, both the target and the reticle increase in perceived size. The advantage to this lens configuration is that the reticle values stay the same regardless of what magnification the scope is set to. Second focal plane reticles typically register full value when they are at their maximum magnification.

Which is Better for long-range?

Despite a revolutionary change towards front focal plane scopes, one is not necessarily better than the other. Its simply based on the user’s preference or purpose. Both types of riflescopes have their pros and cons, so better is not the way to look at it. For example, if you are shooting extreme long range (ELR) competitions then you likely would prefer the finer size of a second focal plane reticle on a target that is three-thousand yards away. And on the other hand, if you are shooting a PRS Match where you have to quickly call your own shots and make corrections at varying ranges it helps to have your subtensions uniform regardless of magnification setting. So while some folks will try to convince you that one is better, keep in mind what you plan to do with the scope.

Pros and Cons

To help you better make a choice between these two scope configurations, I’ll discuss a few of the pros and cons of either selection. First focal plane scopes as I mentioned keep the reticle values intact regardless of what magnification setting you use, this comes at an additional expense. Many manufacturers offer near identical scopes in both FFP and SFP, with the latter being the more affordable option. If reticle usage isn’t part of your routine then this may not be a justified expense. Whereas if you use reticles frequently, it is well worth the added cost.

As I mentioned above, reticle thickness can be a downside to FFP scopes depending on the reticle design. As the reticle increases in size with magnification it can obscure the target or aiming point. Second focal plane scopes don’t have this issue as the reticle is always the same size. They also don’t become so fine as to become illegible at lower power. If you have poor eyesight or other issues related to reticle size, you may be better off with a SFP scope.

If you are looking for a very high magnification optic like a 5-50X, you will find that nearly all of them are SFP, their reticles would otherwise disappear at low power, or cover up a truck at maximum power. If you do use your reticle for measuring hits, misses, and range features with a second focal plane reticle, you may need to refresh your math skills. Using a SFP reticle to measure things at any magnification besides its calibrated setting will require you to calculate the actual value based off the magnification setting and the measurement with the reticle. Some people like math but they should not be trusted.

Shop all riflescopes at Euro Optic

Scopelist Also has a great selection of riflescopes

And maybe if you’re looking for something cheaper, shop at Palmetto

Conclusion

There is no wrong or right answer when it comes to focal planes, there is only an evaluation of their applications. Things such as engagement distances and moving targets should surely be considered when deciding which way to go. I have fully embraced the FFP revolution that has occurred these past years, and I think the huge increase in FFP market share tells that I am not alone. The rapid expansion of long-range shooting and related competition has likely driven the trend.

Whether you are a competitive shooter, a military or law enforcement sniper, or just a redneck hunter with serious intentions, the FFP scopes of today can give you an edge that shooters of the past would lust after. But that’s not to say SFP scopes are inferior, as the brilliant shooters of the past have shown us.

-CBM

Twenty years of chasing cougars with my own dogs have taught me that we in the outdoor media do a lousy job of explaining lion hunting. Even experienced hunters with good dogs finish second much of the time, a fact that too many stories ignore. Even on successful chases, magazine articles and TV programs commonly cut quickly to the tree, the shot, and the dead cat, which makes the process look pretty easy.

Now I invite you to tag along on a real-world lion chase. When we’re done, you can draw your own conclusions.

There are more late-crossing lions in the imagination than in the woods. The term refers to a cat that has crossed the road behind you after you’ve driven up a canyon, searching for a track left the night before. Sign from a late-crosser is a welcome sight because it guarantees a fresh track. Most days, the possibility of spotting tracks made behind you does little more than help you stay awake at the start of a long drive home.

But these tracks were clear, coming down off a bank we’d passed just an hour before.

First spotting them in the headlights, I wrote them off as elk tracks we’d seen on the way in. But something didn’t look right.

I stood on the brakes, and my hunting partner, John, and I jumped out. No doubt about it – we were looking at a tom’s track right on top of our tire tread.

After waiting 20 minutes for legal shooting light – a requirement for turning dogs out in Montana – we walked to the back of the truck for Robbie, John’s bluetick, and Sadie, my walker. As the pair yapped off through the gloom, I fully expected to hear them barking treed before we left the vehicle.

“This one should be about as easy as it gets,” I commented while squirming into my backpack.

Yeah, right.

Although I’d treed cats for others, I hadn’t shot one myself in five years. Now I was the designated hitter, and although I like to downplay the shooting of a cat at the end of a hunt, I confess that the hunt is always more exciting when that role falls to you. As the sound of the chase crossed a creek and disappeared over a ridge, I felt especially eager as we set off in pursuit.

More than a foot of fresh powder snow had fallen that week, and I’d thought about strapping snowshoes to my pack before leaving the truck. But not wanting to pack them through the brush on the mountainside, I decided against it, which seemed like a good idea at the time. Of course, that’s probably what Custer said about his decision at the Little Bighorn.

By the time we’d crossed the first ridge and descended into another creek bottom, the dogs were out of earshot. The track led up a steep mountainside, where deep snow wasn’t a problem under the tree canopy. However, the layer closest to the ground had frozen, and the loose powder on top of it was as slick as grease. We took two steps forward and one step back all the way to the top.

A mile down the ridge, the trail took a confusing turn as we ran into a chaotic jumble of tracks going in different directions. We did find bounding lion tracks where the dogs had jumped the cat, but rocky cliffs below made it impossible to see what had gone where, and blowing snow blurred dog and cat tracks. To complete the confusion, John found lion prints disappearing back into the timber where we’d just come out – with no dog tracks on top of them.

One possible explanation for such confusion is multiple lions. Despite inherently low population densities, cats have a way of finding each other in those lonely hills. It was also possible that a lion kill lay nearby. In any case, fresh lion tracks would do us no good without dogs. So we hunkered down in the timber and waited for them to show up.

But they didn’t. As much as we hated the thought of losing the elevation we had gained, we split up and picked our way down the far hillside, trying to work out the muddle. The blowing snow wasn’t helping, but at one point I was sure I had running lion tracks with dog tracks on top of them. At the bottom, John found the same going on up the next mountain. Although something didn’t feel right, we decided to follow the track.

The second mountainside wasn’t as demanding as the one we’d climbed earlier until we approached the top, where we encountered a maze of steep, rocky cliffs. Ascending one vertical chimney proved nearly impossible without technical climbing gear, but somehow we powered our way up through it.

Another mile down this ridge we encountered more bounding cat tracks; the dogs had caught up with the lion again. Then we entered an area of blowing snow and got separated as we tried to work out the track. By the time I finally picked it up again down in the timber, John’s boot tracks were on top of it, but we were out of earshot. We wouldn’t see each other again for hours.

The chase led back downhill in the direction from which we’d just come. If the dogs had a cat treed on the hillside, I should have been able to hear them. The track I was following led right back toward the spot where we’d first got confused.

A sinking feeling hit me in the pit of my stomach as I finally deduced what had happened. By the time we were waiting on the last ridge, the cat and dogs had already run the loop we’d just spent three bruising hours following! The lone track sneaking back across the ridge had been our cat, and the dogs were lost somewhere on the mountainside.

Back at the creek bottom we’d crossed earlier, I paused to take stock. Our lion hunt was over. I’d been on the trail for seven hours. The dogs were lost, the weather was deteriorating, and limited light remained. It was time to consider priorities. The first order of business was planning my route out of the woods. The dogs came second. I didn’t know where John was, but he would take care of himself.

The wisest choice in these situations is usually to return the way you came, but I knew the creek bottom eventually led to the road. Even though that route was longer, it would save me a long climb.

Then the faint sound of a lost dog’s barking rose above the wind down the creek. That finalized my decision, and after slogging through a mile of snow, I was overjoyed to find dog tracks. Then Robbie and Sadie appeared from the trees. The team was nearly reassembled. All I had to do was get us home, which should have been easy, given the open terrain along the bottom.

However, snow had blown, drifted, and settled on the open ground. Worse yet, the crusted snow was almost, but not quite, firm enough to support my weight. The conditions were perfect for snowshoes – but you know where mine were.

I will admit to being one tired pup by the time I reached the side road that would eventually lead back to the vehicle. Even the well-conditioned hounds were dragging, and we were still two miles from the truck.

Then the most welcome sight imaginable appeared – John had taken the shorter route out, and using the ESP that hunting partners develop after years together in the field, he had figured out exactly where I’d be. The sight of both hounds was probably as welcome to him as the warm truck was to me.

The cat may have won that chess match, but we knew we’d been on an honest lion hunt, with no help from snow machines or radio tracking collars. And that’s the simple tale of a lion chase that was supposed to be as easy as it gets.

It’s a year later now, and the new lion season has just begun. On opening day, the alternator on my truck went out in the middle of nowhere right after we spotted the first cat track of the season. Rather than risk more confusion, John and Scott, a friend visiting from Alaska, stayed with the dead vehicle while I spent eight hours hiking out of the woods to a telephone from which I could call my wife Lori to come rescue us. My 60-year-old legs were already aching, and I had yet to turn Sadie out on a cat.

But yesterday’s events perfectly illustrate the other side of lion hunting. We crossed a smoking fresh tom track right at sunrise, and the dogs were barking at the tree by the time we’d slipped on our packs. Scott drove the arrow home with his recurve, and less than an hour later we were back at my resurrected truck with Scott’s first lion.

“You’re a lucky hunter,” I told Scott as we loaded the dogs back into the vehicle. “That chase was about as easy as they get.”

“I know,” he replied. “I almost wish it had been harder.”

“Are you sure?” I asked with a laugh, and then we were bouncing back down the road looking for the next set of tracks.

Adventuresome Bowman Don Thomas lives in rural Montana with his bowhunting wife, Lori. Don’s 15 outdoor books are available through www.donthomasbooks.com.

Do you associate Benelli with semi-auto guns?

Most of us do…from the famed inertia system to the gas-eating Marine Corps-approved M4, and even the weird combination pump and semi-auto M3, the company is well known for its semi-auto models.

But Benelli’s SuperNova breaks that mold bringing a pump-action, 12-gauge shotgun that truly stands out in the very crowded pump-action market.

Unlike most Benelli’s, the SuperNova doesn’t break the bank either. It’s often priced competitively with Remington and Mossberg shotguns.

So, you know we had to get our hands on this gun and give it a try. Today, we’re reviewing the tactical variant of the gun with the field stock and ghost ring sights.

Benelli SuperNova Tactical Review at a Glance

Pros

• Compact
• Ghost ring sights but also optics-ready
• Ergonomic design

Cons

• Not a lot of customization options
• Length of pull is a little long

The Bottom Line

The Benelli SuperNova is an effective, comfortable-to-shoot option for those looking for a shotgun for both home defense and hunting. And the price isn’t too bad either!

Specs & Features

Benelli doesn’t waste space and keeps the barrel at a trim 18.5 inches.

That’s the stock standard for a tactical 12-gauge, and while shorter is nicer, the NFA requires a stamp for anything less than 18 inches.

The 18.5-inch length gives some leeway for the inconsistent testing methods used by the ATF.

The overall length of the weapon is 39.75 inches, and it weighs 7.6 pounds. The length of pull is a long 14.75 inches. Even henchman-sized guys like me find that to be a long length of pull.

We’ll talk more about that later…

The Benelli SuperNova comes with a 4-round magazine tube. Oddly enough, the magazine tube comes plugged to only allow two rounds to be loaded.

That’s common in sporting guns, and the purpose is to keep the weapon legal when hunting certain species of birds.

Removing the plug is easy enough. Four plus one is the absolute minimum for a tactical shotgun. I, like most, would prefer a little extra capacity in my defensive or tactical shotgun.

Luckily, adding a magazine extension is easy, and I did just that to get three extra rounds in the gun.

Beads make great sights, but ghost rings are better, and Benelli believes in ghost rings. It’s got a set of solid iron sights with a rear ghost ring and a big front sight. They are very well made sights, and very adjustable.

If you prefer optics, you’re in good company. The top of the receiver is drilled and tapped for an optic’s rail or mount.

The SuperNova works with Benelli M4-style optics mounts, just pop out the plastic plugs and pop on the scope mount with the screws.

Who Is It For?

While Benelli markets the standard SuperNova towards hunters, the SuperNova Tactical is geared more towards home defense. With that said, it can still make a great hunting gun.

Fit & Feel

Ergonomically the SuperNova provides a sound ergonomic experience. The trigger guard is massive, and your finger will find its way in. Its safety is reversible for lefties and is a push-button style that’s rather large and easy to engage.

The pump release is forward slightly of the trigger, and it’s intuitive. It’s big enough, and I doubt it’s an issue for lefties.

Using the magazine cut-off isn’t hard but takes a second to get used to.

You have to pull the pump slightly rearward, then hit the button and finish racking the pump rearward. Once the button’s pressed, rounds won’t feed from the tube, and you can do a hasty and intuitive slug select drill.

Loading rounds directly into the port of the weapon doesn’t pose a challenge either. That ejection port is massive and made for a 3.5-inch long shell. So shoving a 2.75-inch shell in the thing doesn’t create an issue.

Port reloads are how you get a gun in action when it runs completely dry. Being able to get a quick reload in the pipe can be critical. Keeping the gun fed is also easy. It’s got a big mouth in the form of a massive loading port.

It’s made for 3.5-inch rounds, and all that extra size gives you plenty of room to shove in standard 2.75-inch shells. It’s easily the fastest reload I’ve ever achieved with a pump gun.

My main problem with the gun’s ergonomics is the super long length of pull. It makes the gun feel unnecessarily long. The LOP makes it hard to assume a squared-off shooting position and forces a more sporting-style bladed stance to be used.

How Does It Shoot?

Speed means nothing without control. Banging hammers with the SuperNova and controlling the gun is quite easy. See those weird chevrons in the stock?

That’s part of the Comfortech stock, and those chevrons flex and cushion to reduce recoil and enhance control. With full-powered buckshot, the SuperNova stays comfy and won’t beat you up.

That long pump I mentioned earlier also features a good degree of texturing and a shape that makes it easy to get a grip on it.

When you run a pump gun fast, your hand might slip rearwards and off the pump or into a compromised grip. That’s not an issue with the giant Supernova pump.

I use a push/pull technique to mitigate recoil. The texturing, shape, and length grant me a rock-solid grip to push forward on the pump and help maintain control.

That long pump design also grants me more gun to grip. I injured my shoulders pretty bad when I was younger, and sometimes running a standard pump shotgun hurts.

The longer pump allows me to grip closer to the receiver and resists stretching my arms out.

It’s less weight on my shoulders and a much more comfortable experience.

What Sets It Apart?

The earlier Nova was a great gun, but not perfect. Benelli’s SuperNova took the criticisms of the Nova and perfected it.

The Nova featured a one-piece construction receiver and stock, so switching stocks wasn’t an option.

With the SuperNova, you can swap stocks. Additionally, the trigger guard is fairly large and accommodates gloved hands better.

The stock included with the SuperNova is Benelli’s famed Comfortech design which claims to reduce recoil.

The SuperNova comes with a shim kit that allows you to adjust drop and cast on the gun. It’s an interesting idea and handy for those who like things to fit just right.

How it stands apart from the Nova is one thing, but how does it stand apart from all the other guns on the market?

The most obvious difference is the polymer receiver. As far as I know, it’s the only pump gun with a polymer receiver.

You might ask if this is a concern, will the polymer receiver crack under pressure?

Well, the Nova and SuperNova have been kicking around for over a decade, and that hasn’t been an issue. Obviously, some metal sits into the receiver and forms a skeleton frame.

Polymer’s cool, but that’s not the only awesome feature. The super-long pump is interesting and allows for a whole lot of grip on the gun. Most guns have a space between the pump and the receiver, and the SuperNova does not.

In fact, the pump goes so far back that it overlaps the receiver by about a quarter inch. The long pump means shooters with short and long arms can easily use the gun. We aren’t done with the pump yet, either.

In the center of it sits a magazine cutoff device. It’s a button that, when pressed, prevents a shell from feeding into action. This is handy when you need to switch loads on the fly.

The SuperNova also chambers 3.5-inch shells, which is rare for a shotgun.

While 3.5-inch shells aren’t commonly used for defensive shooting, it’s always nice to have more versatility. The SuperNova could easily be a hunting shotgun, even if it’s a “tactical” model.

By The Numbers

Accuracy: 5/5

It’s a shotgun that does shotgun things. The big sights make it easy to aim and easy to adjust for using slugs of high-end buckshot. I give the gun major credit for that.

Reliability:5/5

Pump-action shotguns are inherently reliable. However, the Supernova takes it a step further with a rotating bolt that flings those shells out of the gun with reckless abandon.

Customization: 2/5

Mesa makes a stock and a side-saddle, and that’s about it. Not a lot you can do besides add an optic and extend the magazine tube. If you want customization, a Mossberg or Remington will take you a lot further.

Value: 4/5

It’s not as cheap as a basic Mossberg or Remington Express. They tend to cost right around 870 Magpul or Mossberg 590 prices. Although, you get a much more modern shotgun. It’s by far the cheapest Benelli.

Ergonomics: 4/5

The ergonomics mostly rule. I love the pump design, I love the huge ejection and loading port, and I love the reversible safety and the shim kit to change drop and cast. I don’t love the length of pull, though.

Overall: 4/5

The Benelli SuperNova is one helluva shotgun. It’s a sweet pump-action design that brings innovation into a market that hasn’t moved far beyond the 1960s.

Upgrades for the Benelli SuperNova Tactical

Unfortunately, there are not really a lot of upgrade options for the Benelli SuperNova. Mesa makes a great stock that shrinks the LOP down to 12.5 inches and adds a pistol grip.

Mesa also makes a nice side saddle that provides Picatinny rail and space for storing up to 6 shells.

Other than those two, however, there’s not much out there.

Final Verdict

On paper, the Benelli looks solid, and it’s not just good looks. At the range, it performs very well.

I’ve handled lots of pump-action shotguns, but I don’t think I’ve ever had an action as smooth or as light as the SuperNova’s. This includes a direct comparison to my 1971 Remington Wingmaster.

I’m surprised at how rarely I see the SuperNova mentioned in modern shotgun discussion. It’s a well-built, modern, and easy shooting gun. Benelli put the same innovation in it that they do all their guns.

It’s well on its way to becoming my favorite shotgun and might become my home defense gun sooner rather than later.

Have you shot the Benelli SuperNova? What did you think? Share your thoughts in the comments below. Want more tactical-style shotties? Check out our Best Home-Defense Tactical Shotguns.

Soon the dog days of summer will be over and our focus will be shifted from mowing the grass to finishing mallards over the decoys. As the season draws near, it is time to start making sure your gear is in working order and your gun dog is tuned up. Also included in your preparation for the 2022 duck season should be an analysis of which gear to add to your arsenal. Perhaps the biggest game changer to your season could be the type of duck call you choose. The growing popularity in cut down duck calls had led to many more options to choose from in 2022. Before adding a new cut down down to your lanyard, review this list of the best cut down duck calls for 2022.

Ace In the Hole: Echo Duck Calls

You cannot go wrong with the Ace In the Hole 2.0 from Echo Duck Calls this season. This cut down duck call will allow you to run the entire marsh this upcoming season, and you will look good doing it. The characteristics of this call make it possible to bark at even the highest flying ducks. The sounds this call produces are loud and raspy, which perfectly imitate a mallard hen. Echo Duck Calls has a long standing reputation for making quality duck calls, and the Ace In the Hole is no exception.

Click the image to check out current pricing of the Echo Ace in the Hole cut down duck call on Amazon.

Echo Duck Calls also produces a more budget friendly cut down duck call. Their poly carbonate cut down is perhaps the most bang for your buck on the market. Although the poly carbonate cut down does not offer the same sharpness an acrylic call does, it still gets the job done.

Click here to check out the polycarbonate cut down call from Echo Duck Calls.

Rockin’ R: RNT Duck Calls

The Rockin’ R is RNT Calls’ newest cut down added to their lineup. Its design, similar to the RNT Mondo, allows hunters to be versatile in their approach. From breaking down migrators to finishing them over the decoys, this call can do it all. The Rockin’ R is the king of calls when it comes to hunting public land. If you want to run the pool this upcoming season, add the RNT Rockin’ R cut down duck call to your lanyard.

Click here to check out the Rockin’ R from RNT Duck Calls

Cutdown 00: Slayer Duck Calls

Do not sleep on the Cutdown 00 cut down duck call from Slayer this season. This cut down produces loud, raspy, and realistic sounds that fool even the most pressured ducks. This call is made from Derlin material, which means that when harsh weather comes your way, your call will still perform at the highest level. Unlike most cut down duck calls, this call comes in both a single-reed and double-reed model. Be sure to add this call to your lanyard and make this season the most successful yet.

Click the image above to check out current pricing of the Slayer Cutdown 00 duck call on Amazon.

Brute: Rolling Thunder Calls

The Brute cut down duck call from Rolling Thunder Calls is a surefire way to run the pool this season. This call has been slightly altered compared to traditional cut down duck calls, which has made it much more user friendly. However, it still possesses the ability produce loud barks and finish birds within shooting range. The Brute has become a crowd favorite because of its appearance and the results it produces in the marsh. This call comes in both an acrylic as well as a polycarbonate model. Therefore, if you are on a budget this season, you have the chance to purchase a more affordable but high quality call.

Click here to check out the Brute from Rolling Thunder Calls.

Tomahawk : 737 Duck Calls

The Tomahawk cut down duck call made by 737 Duck Calls is one of the newest additions to their lineup. This call, which is certainly appealing to the eyes, has the ability to reach high flying migrators all while maintaining the finesse it takes to finish the wariest of birds. It is built like most traditional cut down calls with the longer barrel and wide bore through the insert. The call comes in more than 10 different acrylic color schemes. Add the 737 Tomahawk cut down duck call to your lanyard to make the difference this season.

Click here to check out the Tomahawk cut down call from 737 Duck Calls.

Ignition: Power Calls

The Ignition, brought to you by Power Calls, is certainly a game changer when it comes to adding a cut down duck call to your lanyard. Its sturdy design paired with its appealing looks make it a top notch cut down on the market. Not only is the Ignition a quality call, it is also a more affordable way of adding a cut down to your lanyard.

Click here to check out the Ignition cut down call from Power Calls.

You decided to go fishing, prepared everything like you usually do, but the weather changed. It is raining and you are wondering what to do?

Fishing in the rain can be done, and rainy weather can actually help you in some cases. What many people consider bad weather, is actually good for angles!

Environmental factors have a huge impact on fish. Rain affects river flows, it carries different insects and worms into the river from the riverbanks. That attracts fish which can feed on it. The same goes for lakes too …

Clouds, unlike sun, provide darker conditions during the day, and it can also be your advantage. So, this is your opportunity to profit the best you can from that situation.

Except that, while fishing in the rain, you will also need to think about your needs and how to protect yourself from cold, rain and possible dangers.

Here we will see how rain affects on different fishes, what gear to use, find out some rain tips and learn how to prepare yourself.

Is it Good or BAD to Fishing in the Rain? [Why?]

Depending on the season, rain can be very useful for fishing. Before I mention some tips for fishing, here are some basics.

In early spring, when the water is high and temperatures low, most of the time rain will not be your advantage.

But in warm months of the year, when water levels are lower, moderate rainfall will be the best situation for fishing adventure. The same applies to times after strong and heavy rainfalls (storms).

Very important thing to mention is to avoid fishing during heavy thunderstorms and lightning because that can be very dangerous for you.

As already mentioned, rain carries small worms and insects into the water, but also causes commotion among small living creatures in the water. This occurrence causes increase in fish activity.

Rain can also affect the water temperature, and/or blur it and darken it. In those conditions large fish can move around more than usual.

In rainy days it is good to use bigger spinners because they are more visible in the absence of sunlight and such fishing conditions. We will mention different approaches for different fish species later on.

In lakes with clear water rain will cause darker conditions and make fish more active which is good for productive fishing. Unlike rivers, lakes are prone to lack of oxygen in warm and dry months of the year. Rain will cool the water, restore some oxygen and create lower visibility for fishes, so they can’t see you and your fishing equipment.

Rain can make the water very muddy and “dense”. As rain carries living creatures into water, it can also carry large amounts of mud. Those conditions are not desirable for fishing. In that situation you should find the clearest possible spot, away from obvious mudflows from riverbanks. This problem is much bigger if you are not using a boat.

You can predict this problem if it has been raining for days prior to your fishing trip. That way you can consider possible locations before and not to use your precious fishing time for location searching.

Even the light rain can affect your fishing sucess. Together with steady light wind, it creates favorable conditions as it oxygenates the water.

Is Fishing Better Before or After Rain?

When talking about rainstorms, fishing is better before.

Before the storm and heavy rains, the barometric pressure lowers which is good for fish activity. Feeding frenzy can occur among fish and that’s the best time for you to present your bait and catch a fish, or more than one. Fish bites will come one after another!

During the storm the fish activity will slow down but that is not a problem because it is not advisable to fish in that conditions. In the end of the storm there is a very short time window in which pressure increases and fish are active. When the storm is over, fish will act the same as usual, or even be more inactive.

During summer and early fall you can benefit greatly from fishing before the storm. Also, at that time of the year very hard but not long-lasting thunderstorms are more frequent. If you want to try, and use the weather for your advantage, bass is one of the fishes that will react the most on weather changes.

If your weather predicting skills are not that good, there are numerous internet websites and weather mobile apps which are highly accurate and easy to use so that anyone can figure out the weather forecast. Or if you prefer, you can buy a simple barometer and have it with you while fishing.

Rain Will Help You Catch More Fish like Trout, Carp and Bass

Trout, carp and bass are among fish which are the most sensible on weather conditions.

Trout reacts the most to lower light, carp to oxygen level and bass to water movement, everything caused by rainy conditions. No matter which one you prefer to catch, rain will be your best friend while fishing for them.

Trout Fishing in the Rain

Absence of sunlight will make trouts more active.

In darker conditions they lurk on their prey because they are less visible to it.

Fly-fishing for trouts in the rain will work the best …

Usually, the best time to catch trouts is low light condition like early morning or evening. Clouds and rain produce similar conditions during the whole day. Rain washes insects to the water and attracts trouts, so this is the best time to present your bait. Although this time is the best for dry flies, it is also good to try fishing deeper. Small water invertebrates are also stirred up at this time, and they are important food for trouts. Sinking flies are very useful here.

Rain brings cold weather (or at least a few degrees cooler) which is great in warmer parts of the year. You all know that trout prefer coller water.

Carp Fishing in the Rain

Fishing in the rain for carp can be beneficial but also it depends on of the season.

In warmer months quick rain showers affect carps activity. They are more active before the shower. While temperature of the water is lower, like in spring, rain will cool it even more so carp will be less active. Apparently, carps are more sensitive to wind than other fish (bass for example), so if the conditions are windy try to find a sheltered spot. Carp is also very sensitive to low oxygen levels so that is the main reason it reacts to rain.

Bass Fishing in the Rain

Although fishing in the rain is good, it affects the moving patterns of fish, so in the beginning it can be hard to locate it. If you find baitfish in those conditions, there is a high chance bass is close.

Wind is also important because water motion carries small fish, so its better to go on a downwind side of the water. You can also look for natural hiding places for small fish in harsh weather. Bass will be active and look for them.

When fishing for bass in normal conditions it is important to keep your distance from the fish. While fishing in rain you re not that visible to the bass so you can be closer. That way your casting will be more precise and your lure will not make a big splash while hitting the water surface.

Try topwater baits as bass is now more active than usual. They are aggressively biting in rainy conditions so if you are using spinners they can move faster, if you are using worms, don’t keep them in one place for too long as the bass is swimming around, not lurking from its hiding place.

What is the Must Have Gear for Fishing While Raining? [Every Angler Need!]

Fishing while raining requires an investment in good rain gear.

Imagine yourself being wet and cold and not being able to use most of your fishing day.

You will need a suit and footwear which will keep you dry and warm, even in the storms.

Cheap coats or “emergency” rain suits will not do the job. You will have to visit a specialized store and pick a jacket, pants and boots or boot covers.

It is easy to stay dry while standing in place, but while moving, walking and working with your equipment you need clothes which can handle it.

Fishing Rain Suits for Fishing

There are numerous brands that you can choose from but make sure you invest in quality products.

Prices can vary but make sure it is comfortable, you can normally move in it and that it has easy accessible pockets.

The more waterproof and heavy it is the less breathable it will be, so you decide what option is the best for you.

Light ones are usually more comfortable but less durable. If you don’t care about the prices there are high-end options that combine durability, comfort and are breathable.

If you are a beginner the best option would be multi functional rain suit you can use for other outdoor activities too. Make sure that zippers, buttons and sleeve edges are tight and fit properly.

No matter which items you decide to buy, at least the basic waterproof gear is a must to protect yourself from wet weather!

How Rain Affects Water Temperature and Your Fishing?

Rain can also have a significant impact on water temperature and your fishing experience.

When it’s raining, temperature of the water tends to decrease as the precipitation cools down the surface. This drop in temperature can affect fish behavior, making them less active and harder to catch.

However, fishing in the rain can be advantageous in some cases. The raindrops create a masking effect, making it harder for fish to detect your presence. This can give you an advantage when it comes to stealthy fishing.

Additionally, if you’re fishing in an area with warmer water, the rain can bring down the temperature to a more favorable range for fish activity. While fishing during sunny weather is typically considered optimal, don’t shy away from casting your line when it’s raining as it can present unique opportunities.

Adjusting your times to fish and embracing the rain can lead to successful fishing trips.

Conclusion

Fishing in the rain can be more productive than fishing during nice and sunny days.

Most of the fish species react to rain. If you use proper gear and know your locations, most certainly you will end up having one of your best fishing days. AND don’t forget your safety and avoid lightning and thunders.

Fishing in the rain is very similar to dry conditions from the technical aspect but much more productive because of how rain affects the fish behavior. So during summer and fall don’t think twice when the forecast is “bad” because fishing is one of the rare activities which are better in rain.

Public land whitetail hunting is nothing new. However, in recent years, it has exploded in popularity. But why? There are a few major reasons, but there’s one big solution that is allowing hunters to be more nimble and get to where they need to be to take down deer on public dirt: hunting saddles.

Knock-on-door permission is difficult to obtain these days, and most blue-collar whitetail goers can’t afford a pricey lease. Also, many whitetail hunters are over the constant grooming of private land to create a whitetail haven. Food plots can work, but they also take a hell of a lot of work, time, and often money.

Plus, hunting public land is easier and better than ever before. As more whitetail hunters look to get in the field, state game and fish agencies have done an excellent job of creating more public access nationwide.

And some bowhunters want the added challenge of chasing big bucks on public dirt.

There are entire YouTube channels like The Hunting Public and outdoor television shows dedicated to public-land deer pursuits. In today’s whitetail world, it’s cooler to be a run-and-gun public-land warrior than it is to have hundreds of acres of private, manicured whitetail dirt.

Of course, public-land hunting ushers in a litany of challenges. One of those challenges is treestand hunting. Leaving a hang-on stand with climbing sticks in a tree overnight is illegal in many states. In other states, you can leave a stand-and-stick combo in a tree for a week, but not for a month.

And, of course, aluminum hang-on stands and sticks are a chore to tote around the woods, and for many public land whitetail hunters, especially those who find regular success wandering off the beaten path, weight and space in a backpack is an issue if they’re hauling a stand and their climbing gear.

Plus, since not everyone has things like ethics and scruples, there’s also no guarantee all the parts of your stand will still be there when you walk in pre-dawn to your public land spot.

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The Tree Saddle

Enter the tree saddle into the deer hunting gear arsenal.

A tree saddle is a significant win for those who prefer hunting North America’s favorite big-game animals from 20 feet up. Also called hunting saddles or treestand saddles, they are specialized equipment used by hunters to provide a secure and comfortable way to hunt from a tree without using a large metal platform.

A tree saddle consists of a harness-like system that goes around the waist. It typically includes a waist belt, leg loops, and adjustable straps. The harness distributes your weight evenly and provides stability while you’re standing in the tree.

A small platform is used for foot placement, but the harness system brings a new name to hang-and-hunt. A hunter hangs in the air, with their feet on the miniature platform. A rope from the waist belt will run to a line with a carabiner, which wraps around the entirety of the tree’s trunk.

A saddle is drastically lighter than any kind of climbing tree stand, and you can hunt with one from even the most gnarled and crooked trees in the woods. Plus, your mobility is greatly maximized once you’re in the tree.

How to Use a Tree Saddle

To use a tree saddle, select a suitable tree and attach the climbing system. Many saddle hunters use lightweight aluminum climbing sticks to help them get up the tree safely and quickly.

Once you reach the height you want, secure the saddle to the tree by wrapping a rope or webbing around the trunk and connecting it to the saddle. This creates a secure attachment point.

Next, you can sit or stand in the saddle, supported by the harness. The saddle design allows for flexibility and maneuverability, enabling you to shift positions or rotate around the tree trunk to get the best angle for a shot. Some tree saddles also have additional accessories, such as platforms or pouches for gear storage.

Tree saddles are popular among hunters who value mobility, versatility, and stealth. They offer a lightweight and portable alternative to traditional treestands that allows hunters to set up quickly in various locations and adapt to changing hunting conditions. Additionally, tree saddles provide a more intimate connection to the tree, enhancing the feeling of being one with your surroundings.

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The Big Benefit

With a saddle, platform, and sticks, you can hop from tree to tree quickly and quietly to take advantage of right-now deer movement.

From the early season to the rut to the late season, you can quickly move around the woods to put yourself in the best position to take advantage of what’s putting a big buck where he wants to be: food, girls, and cover.

And hunters who border-hop and hunt whitetails on public ground in multiple states don’t need to have a pickup bed full of treestands and sticks if they switch to a saddle. A single platform, a set of climbing sticks, and a saddle is all you need.

The Best Hunting Saddles, Platforms, and Sticks

It’s hard to beat the Venatic Saddle from TrophyLine, a top-of-the-line saddle manufacturer. Weighing only 20 ounces without the bridge and 30 ounces with the bridge and carabiner, this ultralight saddle provides comfort, durability, and ease of use.

The fabric is ultralight ripstop nylon, and a rigid rubber MOLLE band runs the entire length of the saddle for adding pouches and accessories. The rubberized waistband boosts comfort and grip.

The straps have been cut in half to increase comfort but without sacrificing strength. I also love the durable Foldback Lineman Loops. The foldback design prevents snags on brush when hiking in.

Pair the Venatic with TrophyLine’s Onyx Platform and Double Step Mini Climbing Sticks. The Angled Perimeter of the Onyx means angles on each side of the platform, with built-in non-slip ridges for more secure foot placement, plus the single-cast post is a breeze to set.

The 17-inch Double Step sticks come in a four-pack, and, as the name suggests, they feature fixed double steps for increased comfort and safety, and the pivoting V-bracket on each stick means you can get a stick to fit any trunk.

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The Phantom Starter Saddle Kit from Tethrd is a great piece of gear and a favorite among bowhunters. The kit comes with everything you need to get up a tree and get to hunting for just over $400.

The kit comes with the Phantom Saddle, a Lineman Belt, a tether, and an optional platform. With this kit, you’ll have everything you need to wander public and private tracts looking for that perfect 18-feet-up ambush point. Once you find it, this system will have you safely and comfortably up the tree in no time. The saddle fits waist sizes ranging from 28 to 40 inches.

It’s important to note that hunting laws and regulations vary by jurisdiction, so you must familiarize yourself with local regulations and obtain any required licenses or permits before engaging in hunting activities.

Additionally, any hunting equipment, including tree saddles, should always be used with proper safety precautions and after training to minimize the risk of accidents or injuries.

Final Thoughts

Killing a whitetail with any weapon is a difficult task. However, when a buck exposes his weakness, whether it be a late- or early-season food source or his need to chase girls, being able to be where he wants to be will stack the odds of success in your favor.

Few tools allow you to capitalize on deer movement quickly and quietly the way a lightweight, comfortable tree saddle can.

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Whitetail deer hunting is one of the most popular forms of hunting in North America. These majestic creatures can be found throughout the United States and Canada, and their impressive antlers make them a popular target for hunters. But have you ever wondered what the biggest whitetail deer ever killed was? In this article, we’ll take a look at the record books and explore some of the biggest whitetail deer ever taken down by hunters.

The Boone and Crockett Club

The Boone and Crockett Club is a non-profit organization dedicated to the conservation and management of wildlife and their habitats. Founded in 1887 by Theodore Roosevelt and George Bird Grinnell, the club is best known for its record-keeping system for big game animals. The Boone and Crockett Club’s scoring system is based on the size of the animal’s antlers, and it is the standard by which all other record-keeping organizations measure big game animals.

The Top 5 Biggest Whitetail Deer Ever Killed

According to the Boone and Crockett Club’s records, the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed are as follows:

1. The Jordan Buck – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Al Jordan in 1914 in Danbury, Wisconsin. The Jordan Buck’s antlers scored an impressive 206 1/8 inches.

2. The Hole-In-The-Horn Buck – This famous whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Larry Gibson in 1940 in Peoria County, Illinois. The Hole-In-The-Horn Buck’s antlers scored 205 0/8 inches.

3. The Missouri Monarch – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Jim Jordan in 1981 in St. Louis County, Missouri. The Missouri Monarch’s antlers scored 198 2/8 inches.

4. The Beatty Buck – This impressive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter James Beatty in 2000 in Greene County, Ohio. The Beatty Buck’s antlers scored 294 0/8 inches.

5. The Hanson Buck – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Milo Hanson in 1993 in Saskatchewan, Canada. The Hanson Buck’s antlers scored an impressive 213 5/8 inches.

While these are the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed according to the Boone and Crockett Club’s records, there are many other impressive whitetail deer out there. In fact, there are over 7,000 whitetail deer in the Boone and Crockett Club’s record book, each with their own unique story.

Factors that Affect Antler Size

While genetics play a large role in determining the size of a whitetail deer’s antlers, there are other factors that can affect antler size as well. These include:

1. Age – As a whitetail deer gets older, its antlers will typically grow larger.

2. Nutrition – A whitetail deer that has access to high-quality food sources will typically have larger antlers than a deer that is struggling to find food.

3. Habitat – Whitetail deer that live in areas with ideal habitat conditions (such as good cover and access to water) will typically have larger antlers than deer that live in less ideal conditions.

4. Hunting Pressure – Whitetail deer that live in areas with high hunting pressure may have smaller antlers due to the fact that hunters are selectively targeting larger deer.

Conclusion

While the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed are certainly impressive, it’s important to remember that hunting is about more than just taking down the biggest animal. It’s about being a responsible and ethical hunter, respecting the animals and their habitats, and enjoying the outdoors. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or just starting out, always remember to hunt safely and responsibly, and to respect the animals and the land.

Sausage casings are an essential part of making sausage. After all, when we have a look at what sausages are made of, we have, of course, the stuffing with the meat, the sausage seasoning, and the meat casing. After all, a sausage isn’t a sausage without something to stuff it in. But sausage casings are also important in ensuring your end product is flavorful, processed evenly, and has great texture.

The type of casing used is typically dictated by tradition but also varies by processing technique, ingredients, and size. Most sausage casings are natural, collagen or fibrous, with a wide array of sizes and applications depending on the type of sausage.

But what is the casing on sausage? Is the sausage casing edible? What are sausage casings made of? PS Seasoning professional chefs answer all your questions about sausage casings.

What is the Casing on Sausage?

Sausage casing is the material that encases the filling of a sausage. Natural sausage casings are usually made of animal intestines but can also be made from collagen, or cellulose material.

What are Sausage Casings Made of?

Generally, sausage casings are made either from beef or sheep intestines, collagen, or cellulose. Though more rare, some sausage casings are made of plastic such as lunch meat and bologna.

Types of Sausage Casings

Natural Casings

Natural sausage casings are made from the submucosa of the small intestine, a layer of the intestine that consists of naturally occurring collagen. The use of natural casing goes back centuries — it’s one of the oldest forms of sausage-making, a classic in the sausage tradition. They are the most popular choice today because of the “snap” they make when bitten. Natural sausage casings are also flexible, tender, easy to stuff, and are durable enough to hold up to smokehouse processing. Natural casings are commonly used for fresh sausage, smoked sausage, snack sticks, brats and more. Your natural sausage casings will come either packed in salt or a saline solution. The saline solution is designed for quick use, so once you rinse them off, you can use them within about 30 minutes after soaking in warm water. If salt-packed (in other words, heavily salted), you need to rinse off the salt from the natural casings, soak them in cold water and run cold water through them. After about half an hour of soaking in warm water, they can be used for stuffing sausages. These natural casings can be repacked in salt and stored in the freezer for up to a year.

Hog casings

Hog casings are the traditional choice when making any type of link sausage like bratwurst, Italians, and kielbasa. This type of natural casing is also commonly used for making smoked polish sausages, ring bologna with a small diameter and landjäeger.

29-32 mm Small Brats • Link Sausage • Landjaeger 32-35 mm Brats • Italian Sausage • Rope Sausage 35-38 mm Polish • Kielbasa 38-42 mm Bologna

Sheep casings

Sheep casings are the most tender of the natural casings. The smaller diameter of sheep casings makes the perfect for making small link sausages like breakfast sausage and hot dogs, to snack sticks.

20-22 mm Breakfast Sausage • Small Snack Sticks 22-24 mm Breakfast Sausage • Snack Sticks 24-26 mm Small Hot Dog • Wiener 26-28 mm Large Hot Dog • Wiener • Landjaeger

Beef Rounds

Beef rounds get their name from their characteristic round shape. They have minimal fat and are ideal for fresh, cooked or smoked sausage such as Ring Bologna, Polish, Mettwurst, Holsteiner, and Blood Sausage. These beef casings are very heavily salted in order to conserve them, so you need to rinse them in cold water then run warm water through them. The best treatment is to soak the beef casings overnight in cold water and soak them in warm water for about 30 minutes before beginning your sausage stuffing work.

Beef Middles

Beef middles are straight long casings that have a heavier texture wall with some fat. These beef casings are ideal for dry and semi-dry sausages like Salami, Liverwurst, Bologna, or Summer sausage.

Beef Bung Caps

Made from the end of a cow’s large intestine, beef bungs are large-diameter sausage casings that are typically used for large bologna, headcheese, souse, capicola, and mortadella.

Shop Natural Casings

Collagen Casings

What is a collagen casing? Collagen casings are processed, edible sausage casings produced from the collagen in cow or pig hides, bones, and tendons. While they don’t give much of a snap, they’re inexpensive and give more uniformity in weight and size compared to their natural counterparts. Collagen casings are packaged in sheets around a tube that can easily be loaded on your stuffing horn, with no soaking required. They come in two varieties based on processing:

Fresh Collagen Casings

As the name implies, fresh collagen casings are used specifically for fresh sausages like bratwurst and breakfast links. These tend to be more tender casings that are unable to withstand hanging in a smokehouse.

Smoked Collagen Casings

Smoked or processed collagen casing are a bit stronger and thicker than fresh collagen to hold up to the processing schedule in the smokehouse, and can be used for making snack sticks, ring bologna, hot dogs or wieners. Their durability holds up well when hung on smoke sticks during processing. Collagen casings are available in clear and mahogany colors (no taste variation).

19 mm Smoke Mahogany Small Snack Sticks 21 mm Fresh Clear Small Breakfast Sausages 21 mm Smoke Clear or Mahogany Snack Sticks 23 mm Smoke Clear Large Snack Sticks • Small Pepperoni 26 mm Smoke Clear Hot Dogs • Wieners 30 mm Fresh Clear Brats • Link Sausage 40 mm Smoke Clear Ring Bologna • Liver Sausage • Kielbasa 43 mm Smoke Clear Ring Bologna • Liver Sausage • Kielbasa

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Fibrous Casings

Fibrous casings are inedible sausage casings made from a form of cellulose material that peels away easily when cooked. They are also made from a specific tree called the Abaca. The fibers in the Abaca tree are very strong yet easy to work with — they’re very stretchable. Fibrous casings are most commonly used for making pepperonis, summer sausage, bologna, liverwurst, and other fine smoked sausages. Their durability allows tight stuffing, making them ideal for fine or emulsified sausages. Fibrous casings should be soaked for at least 25-30 minutes in warm water (80-100 F). Lay the sausage casings flat in warm water and submerge completely, with the tied ends lower so that any trapped air can escape. After soaking, squeeze excess water out before stuffing your sausages.

There’s two main kinds of fibrous sausage casings — clear and mahogany. You can also get them printed with a design. The benefit of a mahogany casing is you’ll get a consistent color when you are smoking the sausage.

1″ Thuringer • Pepperoni • Salami • Cracker-Sized Sausages 2-2.5″ Traditional Summer Sausage 4″ Large Summer Sausage • Hard Salami 8″ Olive & Pimento Loaf • Mortadella • Deli & Sandwich Meats

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Three days without water is the general rule of thumb for how long we can live without it. Given its importance, we should be well versed in the many methods for finding water in the wild.

The most obvious source is a body of water such as a river or lake. But what about another resource that is all around us? I am talking about trees.

Trees can contain a huge amount of water in the form of sap. This sap contains vitamins, minerals, sugar but is primarily made up of water. Since the tree is like one big filter, this sap is perfectly fine to drink. But the question then becomes how to get at it. For that, you will need a tree spile. To be fair, you do not have to carry a modern spile to tap a tree but it sure makes it easier.

What is a Tree Spile?

Chances are you may have seen one of these without even knowing it. Either in person or through TV I bet you have seen maple syrup collected from a tree.

To do this a hole is drilled in the tree, a spile is tapped in and a bucket is hung from the spile. A spile is simply a hollow metal tube that directs the sap into a bucket, rather than letting it run down the bark.

Choosing A Spile

There are a few different options when it comes to choosing this tool. There are different styles that can make the tapping process a bit easier. Some have an end that comes more to a point while others are more rounded. But I am more concerned about the materials they are made from.

Generally, they are made from aluminum, stainless steel, and plastic. Aluminum and plastics options are certainly going to be lighter in weight and cheaper to buy. I believe I even have seen some of the plastic spiles for under a dollar.

This is my personal opinion but I lean towards the stainless steel spiles. They are more expensive but they are less prone to breaking or bending like aluminum or plastic options. I am also not concerned with weight as even a stainless steel spile is quite light and I will only be carrying one. Again that is just my preference and I’m sure the other people have had just as much success with the other types.

Before Using a Spile

First, not all trees can or should be tapped. I am only familiar with tapping maples and birches but I do know there are other trees that can be tapped. If you are interested in trying this process I would recommend that you learn what trees can be tapped and if they are in your area.

Secondly, this method is somewhat seasonal as it works best in late winter to spring. This is when the tree is experiencing very cold nights, below freezing, and then above freezing daytime temperatures.

This temperature difference causes a higher sap flow or pressure within the tree. When a hole is created in the tree, the sap has a place to escape. When this is timed correctly, a gallon or more of sap can be collected in just a few hours.

How To Use A Tree Spile

Once a tree is selected, using a spile is quite easy. It is my recommendation that all of the tools and collection container be ready to go beforehand so as not to waste any sap. Here is a list of the tools you will need.

• Drill bit, knife, or some sort of spike for creating the hole in the side of the tree.
• Spile
• Collection container: This could be a cup, water bottle or anything that will catch and hold the sap
• Cordage: While cordage is not required it may be helpful to hold the collection container in place.
• Impact tool: This can be the butt of a knife, a hammer, or a sturdy branch but you will need something to tap the spile into the tree.

When all of these tools are collected and laid out in front of you, go ahead and follow the steps below.

Step One

Remove a small section of the bark being careful to remove just enough for the spile. Considering that the tree is giving you something it is always good to keep conservation in mind. Only take what you need in order to keep the tree as healthy as possible

Step Two

A hole needs to be drilled for the spile to be tapped into. Ideally, this would be done with a drill which most people do not carry in a pack, some do, but most do not. The tip of a knife will work or a spiked tomahawk.

Step Three

Clean out some of the loose debris from the hole and insert the spile angling the front end slightly downward. The spile does not need to be at an extreme angle, and in fact, it shouldn’t be. It only needs to provide enough of a slope that the sap will run down it. Now, use the butt of a knife handle or a piece of wood and tap the spile firmly into the hole.

The spile does not need to be hammered in but it should rest firmly enough in the hole that it can support the weight of a collection container.

Step Four

Hang a collection container from the spile or place it on the ground beneath it. If it is on the ground just make sure it will not tip over.

Step Five

After you are done tapping a tree it is best to pack the hole with clay or dirt. This will help prevent that area from becoming infected.

Video

Check out this great video demonstrating how to use a tree spile:

Final Words

Unless the sap is being stored in very cold conditions it should be consumed right away, within the first day or two at most, otherwise it can go “bad.”

But with one little tool and five easy steps, you now know how to collect water from a tree. Thanks for reading.