So you just bought a new AR-15 and took it to the range.

You ripped through a few boxes of ammo and now you’re home and you need to know….how do I clean this thing?

Maybe you’ve pulled the pins and separated the upper and the lower and you have no idea what to do from there.

It looks intimidating, right?

Feeling a bit overwhelmed?

No need for that, cleaning the AR-15 is pretty easy!

I’m going to show you just how easy it is to tear your rifle apart, clean it in depth, and put it all back together without fear of damaging anything or leaving any parts out.

Now…with a quick video too!

If that helped, please subscribe to our YouTube channel since we’re adding new videos every week!

Step One: Get the Tools to Clean Your AR-15

If you already have other guns, and you’re cleaning them like you should be (you are cleaning your guns regularly right?) then you most likely already have just about everything you need to clean an AR-15, except for some AR-specific things like a bore brush for your particular caliber.

If you don’t already have cleaning supplies, or if you want to build a complete AR-15 cleaning kit that you can carry to the range or competitions, you have two options: build a kit, or buy one.

Which one is better?

That’s going to be a decision you have to make for yourself.

If you just want a kit that works, or maybe you don’t shoot your AR a lot and aren’t worried about maximizing your cleaning efficiency, then just buying a pre-made kit is perfectly fine.

But, if you are a high volume shooter and you need to clean your rifle frequently, or you’re like me and just enjoy the Zen-like process of cleaning your guns, you’ll probably want to build the perfect kit to meet your needs.

Let’s look at the pros and cons of these two approaches.

Buying a Pre-Made Gun Cleaning Kit

First, if you want to order a kit that will have just about everything you need, there’s no shame in that. Not everyone has the time or energy to build a kit from scratch, and there are several good options out there. The downsides of buying a totally pre-made kit are you can only reliably find universal cleaning kits that are going to include a bunch of extra brushes and bore snakes that you won’t necessarily need.

Think of the pre-made kit like an off-the-rack suit. Sure it’ll work, but its never going to be as nice, or as personalized as a bespoke option.

Basically, off-the-rack is fine, but you wouldn’t want to wear it to your wedding or wear it every day.

The same goes for these pre-made kits…you wouldn’t want to rely on them for something important, say, if you’re a competition shooter, and you’ll want a more personalized option if you’re going to be using it a lot.

That being said, these kits are perfectly fine for most folks, and they’ll be good if you have other guns or other AR-15 calibers, or are looking at acquiring some in the future. Our favorite is the GuardTech.

With these kits or any kit, you buy/build, you’ll want to make sure that they include the correct size bore snakes and brushes, as well as the other tools that work with your AR-15. Make sure you match the caliber to your gun, or you’re going to have to buy another…and you’ll feel a bit silly in the process.

Check out all our favorites in Best Gun Cleaning Kits.

Building Your Own AR-15 Cleaning Kit

Because cleaning a gun is a process that can vary so much from person to person, it’s best that you build a kit that meets your own needs. You can always pick up several different pre-made kits and combine them into one giant “frankenkit”.

If you’re going to build your own kit, I recommend buying a nice case such as this Plano 3-Tray Tackle Box with Dual Top Access, but anything from a cardboard box on up will do.

Next, you’ll want a cleaning mat to keep your parts visible and to keep everything organized. A white sheet or tablecloth will do, but I like this Gun Cleaning Mat because it also includes a handy parts list, making it perfect for a beginner.

From there, you’ll want to buy the brushes and bore snakes/rods for your particular AR caliber. I’ve included some links to .223/5.56 caliber ones below since these are the most common flavors of AR on the market, but you’ll need ones that match your particular caliber.

Here are some kits that include more or less everything you need:

• Gunmaster 223/5.56 AR Rifle Cleaning Kit ($12) – This is the one in my case up top.
• Real Avid Gun Boss – AR/.223/5.56 Compact Rod-Type Cleaning System Kit ($30)
• Otis Modern Sporting Rifle & AR Cleaning System ($43)

With these kits, you should have the brushes, bore snakes/rods, punches, and other various and sundry things you will need, other than your consumable cleaning supplies such as solvent, lubes, and cleaning patches.

The only other things you may find useful (especially if you want to get into some light gunsmithing) is a better punch set like this Ultimate Arms Roll Pin Punch Set ($29.99) and an AR-15 Vise Block ($49.99) that fits into the mag well of the rifle so you can secure it in a bench vise without scratching the finish on your gun.

Best AR-15 Cleaning Solvents and Lubricant

• Hoppe’s No. 9 Gun Bore Cleaner ($7.46)
• Hoppe’s No. 9 Lubricating Oil ($6.99)
• CLP Oil, Solvent, and Lube Combination ($33)
• Ballistol Multi-Purpose Aerosol Can Lubricant Cleaner Protectant ($10) (We love this one so much, we wrote a Ballistol Review)

Step 2: Prep the Area and Clear the Firearm

First, lay out your cleaning mat and throw on some gloves. Some of these chemicals are toxic and you want them in the gun, not on your skin or in your body.

Next, round up all the ammo for your gun, and move it off the table. Seriously. Get it out of the room, if possible. This eliminates the possibility of a round finding its way into the chamber at any point.

Next, clear and render safe your firearm. (That’s fancy talk for making sure the gun can’t go pew, pew pew, or pew pew pew for any reason.)

Here’s the full procedure

1. Point the rifle in a SAFE direction.
2. Remove the magazine.
3. Place the weapon on safe (don’t worry if you can’t because the hammer isn’t pulled back).
4. Lock the bolt to the rear.
5. Visually inspect the chamber and remove any ammunition that may not have been ejected.
6. Release the bolt.
7. Place the weapon on safe.

Step 2: Separate the Upper Receiver from the Lower Receiver.

Push the take-down pins out and pull the two halves apart. Some pins can be pushed out with your finger, others may require the use of a punch. Be careful whatever you use so you don’t scratch your finish. I recommend a nylon punch from one of the kits above for general use.

Step 3: Remove the Charging Handle and Bolt Carrier Group

Step 4: Disassemble the Bolt Carrier Group

First, push the bolt to the rear (pictured above) and remove the firing pin retaining pin using your pick. Remove the firing pin and set it aside. Rotate the cam pin ninety degrees and remove it. Now the bolt should slide right out!

Step 5: Disassemble the Bolt

Once you have the bolt out of the bolt carrier group, use a punch and your mallet to remove the extractor pin, and then remove the extractor and set it aside.

Step 6: Remove the Buffer and Buffer Spring from the Buffer Tube

Using a calloused finger, or a punch, press down on the buffer retainer. Remove the buffer and spring from the tube. Remember the retainer is under pressure, so try not to push down on it too far and slip once the pieces are out.

Otherwise, you’ll spend the next few hours looking for it after it springs off to the other end of the room.

Step 7: Clean the Chamber and Barrel

Everyone has their method for this, but there are a few things you need to remember.

The most important thing is that you clean the chamber and barrel from rear to front. You want to make sure the debris comes out the front of the barrel, and that any brush you use on a rod is inserted from the rear – go with the bullet.

This helps keep the rifling intact. The movies are wrong; you don’t clean from the muzzle to the chamber!

This area takes some creativity to clean up, but with time you’ll find what works for you. This is a good place to drop a little bit of that Bore Cleaner you picked up.

Step 8: Clean the Bolt Carrier Group

This is easier than the chamber and barrel.

Give everything a good scrub. Look for carbon buildup, especially at the rear of the firing pin.

Clean the extractor well, attention to detail is key. I make sure my rags are all plain white and cleaned after every use with bleach.

Set one aside as an “inspection” rag so you can easily find missed carbon.

When you’re finished, reassemble the bolt carrier group in the exact opposite order of disassembly. Make sure your bolt is fully to the front so it can be reinserted in the upper. A flick of the wrist helps this along.

Step 9: Clean the Buffer Assembly

This part is easy. Get a rag with a little lube on it and wipe it all down.

Unless you took your rifle to a really cool obstacle course, you probably won’t need to get back in the tube itself. Wipe down the spring and buffer and you’re all set.

During this step, if you have a collapsible stock it’s not a bad idea to remove it and wipe down the outside of the buffer. It’s an option if you have been in a messy environment, but not needed for range trips.

Step 10: Clean the Charging Handle and Upper Receiver

Just like the buffer assembly, a lightly oiled rag is all you should really need here.

You’ll find what works best for you, but once reassembled the charging handle should move effortlessly within the upper receiver.

Step 11: Clean the Fire Control Group (FCG) and Lower Receiver

This takes a brush, oil, and patience.

It generally doesn’t get too fouled up. Pay attention to your FCG and make sure there are no cracks on the hammer or anywhere on the lower receiver.

Step 12: Reassemble your Rifle

Work backward from the takedown, just like the bolt carrier group. After the fifth time, you do this it will become second nature! It should look something like this when you’re done.

Step 13: Lubricate your Rifle

There are more details to this, but I’m going to keep it simple for right now. All the pieces of your bolt carrier group and your charging handle should receive a light coat of lubricant. It should have a nice sheen to it.

Your FCG, mag release button, bolt catch button, safety selector should all get a drop or two of lubricant. Fiddle with them a touch to work it in there. Bottom line, anything that moves needs to have a bit of lubricant on it.

Step 14: Perform a Function Check

You put all your ammo away at the beginning of this whole deal (right?) so there should be no way a round is anywhere near the chamber but do a safety check just in case.

Then:

1. Point the weapon in a safe direction.
2. Pull the bolt to the rear and release it forward.
3. Place the rifle on safe. Squeeze the trigger. If the hammer doesn’t drop, you passed that step.
4. Place the rifle on fire and pull the trigger. The hammer should fall. If it does, then you’re all finished with the hard part.

Step 16: Clean Your Magazine

This is an often overlooked step. It doesn’t need to be cleaned after every trip to the range. Just pay attention to it during loading.

Does it bind up? Can you hear dirt rattling around in there? Is it hard to load?

Cleaning the magazine is just like cleaning the buffer assembly. Use a pick or whatever you have handy to remove the base plate.

Remove the spring and follower. Wipe it all down and clean it up. Reassemble in the reverse of disassembly.

These are pretty straightforward. If you’ve invested in anti-tilt followers for your GI magazines, this is a great time to install them.

Step 17: Maintenance

Just like the break-in procedure, every rifle has its own maintenance schedule. Consult the manufacturer for more. A general rule of thumb is to give your rifle a thorough inspection every thousand rounds. Once you hit the five thousand round mark, it is a good idea to move to inspections every five hundred rounds.

The most common failures occur in the various springs (specifically the extractor spring), and in the O-Rings on the bolt carrier group. If failures begin, start there!

Keeping a clean and properly lubricated rifle will naturally reduce the risk of failure and extend the life of your rifle. During each cleaning, inspect all parts of cracks, burrs and general wear and tear that may bring your rifle out of spec.

Some Final Thing to Consider When Cleaning an AR-15

Do you shoot corrosive ammo? Check out our handy guide for more information and proper cleaning instructions.

Take your time. You want to be as thorough as possible. Really get inside the bolt carrier with every rag and cleaner you possibly can.

When inserting the firing pin retaining pin, remember the big hole is where it goes in. If you put it in the small hole on the other side, you’re going to have a bad day.

Anything that moves on your rifle should get at least one drop of lubricant whenever you clean. Just like an engine, that oil is important! I cannot stress this enough.

That about does it for this one folks, if you have any questions or want to tell us about your own cleaning procedures, drop us a line in the comments below! Want to see what can happen when you DON’T clean your AR…check out 8 Most Common AR-15 Failures.

The Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadhead is one of the greatest innovations in modern archery hunting in several areas. That said, it may not be perfect for everyone, but I’ve found it to be my favorite tool in my broadhead toolbox thus far. I just finished my fourth deer hunting season exclusively using these broadheads, and I have alot of insights to share.

I’ve seen plenty of reviews where people talk hypothetically and scientifically about these broadheads, quoting all the marketing materials or synthesizing other online reviews and it’s obvious they have never touched let alone shot one of these broadheads.

That isn’t going to be this review. I have four sets of antlers that these broadheads have brought home for me, not to mention some does the Rage’s have put in my freezer as well. And I have bought every single broadhead with my own money. This review is packed with information and insight that the cookie cutter reviews can’t provide.

How They Work

The rage hypodermics are a mechanical broadhead, which means they fold up neatly for storage and shooting. But upon impact, the cutting blades expand outward to drastically increase the cutting diameter. One some models the blades are held in place by a collar, other models have no collar, more on that later.

These broadheads are simple to work with, safe to handle, and thus far in my experience, 100% reliable. The goal of mechanical broadheads is to provide a larger cutting diameter than is feasible with fixed blade broadheads while being more aerodynamic and accurate. Do they achieve this goal? In short, yes.

Specs

• 2-Blade Crossbow Broadhead
• 100 Grain or 125 Grain
• Hybrid Hypodermic Tip
• Stainless Steel Hypodermic Ferrule
• .035″ Blade Thickness
• 2 ” Cutting Diameter
• High Energy SHOCK COLLAR™ or No Collar Blade Lock
• 3 per Package
• Replacement Blades Available

If you are new to crossbow hunting, here is a podcast episode I did on How To Pick Your First Crossbow For Deer Hunting.

Massive Effectiveness – Hype or Truth?

Rage boasts a lot of big colorful words to describe how impressively effective these crossbow broadheads are, along with the non-crossbow versions. Do they live up to that hype though? Are they really that devastating on deer? My experience with archery hunting is that if you hit a deer in an ideal location, that deer is going to die. And if you hit it in a bad location, it may or may not die, and you may or may not recover it. Shot placement is everything to achieve a quick humane kill.

These hypodermic crossbow broadheads are no exception to that simple truth. I have botched a shot and lost a deer. But if the hunter can do their part and place the shot in a good spot, these things are amazing. The stories below illustrate that quite well.

Cast Studies Of How They Really Work

The first shot I took with a Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadhead dropped the deer to the ground, in place, at 30 yards. The deer couldn’t go five feet. The wound was so impressive, and deer bled out so much and so quickly that it was a little bit nauseating to me. I kid you not. The deer was unconscious within seconds, it dropped right to the ground and couldn’t get back up. I was immediately sold on these broadheads. They were unbelievably effective.

The second deer I shot was a nice buck walking at 23 yards. I watched it run less than 50 yards and pile up right in front of me. This shot was not as gruesome as the first, but it was impressively effective. The deer was not conscious for more than a few seconds.

The next buck I shot ran 75 yards or so but left such a large blood trail that I could not believe there was any blood left in the deer by the time I found it. Far more blood than with any rifle kill I’ve had on a deer. Again, a very fast and humane kill.

I could go on and on, but the bottom line is this. Every deer where I was even close to a vital area was on the ground within seconds and didn’t go more than that one at 75 yards. The blood trails were always easy to follow when I didn’t watch the deer go down. Sometimes the blood trails were excessive and other times they were average. But each time the deer went down fast, humanely, with minimal suffering and was easily recovered.

How Well Do They Penetrate?

When it comes to arrows, everyone wants a pass-through shot, myself included. A pass-through double lung shot will quickly kill a deer 100% of the time and provide the most trackable blood with the largest margin of error. Plus, a pass through arrow is most easily recovered and reused. These Rage broadheads have not always given me a clean passthrough shot though.

I would say 60% of the time the arrow has gone through the deer and cleanly come out the other side. The other 40% of the time the arrow has poked through the other side of the deer to some degree but remained lodged in the deer. I hate this, because almost every single time the arrow has been broken, usually sheared off when the deer runs next to a tree.

However, the effectiveness of the broadhead has not diminished at all in these situations. The deer do not run any further or bleed any less. The broadhead does its damage, its game over every single time. What keeps the arrow from cleanly leaving the deer? I cannot tell. These things tend to go right through rib bone like nothing. I am wondering if the bow I’ve been using needs the string replaced and is losing some velocity. But the bottom line is a 100% fast kill rate on all deer shot anywhere close to a vital area.

Do They Always Work?

Yes, so far. I have not had one fail to deploy, deploy improperly, or malfunction in any way. I shoot, the broadhead opens, and the deer quickly expires. I have full confidence that these are going to work every time. I’ve shot deer as far as 40 yards and have never had an issue with the broadheads. They just work. As they should.

Can They Pass Through Bone?

I hate this question, because it is not often asked responsibly. No archery hunter should ever fire into the shoulder or at any bone other than a rib. It is irresponsible and unethical. No broadhead, no matter what it’s made of, fixed, mechanical, titanium, or weighing 600 grains can reliability pass through the thickest part of the shoulder of a gull grown deer, let alone with enough power to humanely kill the deer. Often the arrow will deflect, sometimes it will bounce off, if it goes through its trajectory can be greatly altered. It is a not a shot hunters should take or try to find special equipment for. Stop it.

Stop chasing this foolhardy idea, it is wounding too many deer. Never aim for hard bone and don’t try to build a heavy arrow setup that gives you a better change of taking the deer if you do. You will focus on the wrong things and botch more shots because of it. These broadheads and all broadheads will do what they are designed to do, go through both lungs and kill a deer quickly. If you want to shoot through the shoulder, then use a rifle. For more, check out my podcast episode Heavy Arrows Vs. Fast Arrows For Deer Hunting.

Can You Shoot Through Mesh In Ground Blinds?

This is a hotly contested subject! Shooting through the mesh of a ground blind with any broadhead, let alone a mechanical broadhead like the Rage Hypodermic is greatly debated. Rather than quoting arguments and articles, I’ll just tell you the truth. It works, its fine, and it works great. 80% of the deer I’ve shot with these have been from ground blinds and through the mesh. I have not noticed any difference whatsoever of shots going through the mesh vs. those not through the message. It’s a non-issue.

I believe the benefits of the mesh to conceal the hunter outweigh any theoretical cons about shooting through mesh. It does not seem to impact the velocity, range, accuracy, or penetration of the broadheads. And no, they do not deploy when shooting through the mesh. This debate is waged largely by people who have no experience. I can tell you first-hand, the mesh hasn’t hurt me one bit.

Collar vs. No Collar

Rage makes a version of the Hypodermic crossbow broadheads with a collar and without a collar. If you are unfamiliar, the collar is just a little plastic ring that holds the blades in place. When the broadheads hit the deer, the collar snaps off and the blades open. The no collar version uses a newer mechanical mechanism to replace the collar.

There is alot of debate about broadheads that use a collar being inferior because the collar requires “alot of energy” to break and that energy is not able to go into the deer. I talked to Rage about this very point at length, and according to them, the people who make the broadheads, this is completely untrue. The amount of energy required to break a collar is inconsequential.

People accidently snap collars when brush touches the broadhead in a quiver, which is one of the main reasons they created the no collar version. The collar and the no collar broadheads perform almost identically.

Keep in mind, it is in their best interest to push the no collar models because they cost more. So, to say the cheaper and older collared models have the same performance is just plain honesty. I personally prefer the collar version because it is cheaper than the no-collar.

The Best Part – They Fly Like Field Tips

Hands down, the best feature of the Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadhead is that they fly just like a field tip. I can practice with field tips as much as I want, and then put on a broadhead and will have the same accuracy at every range that the field tip has. This means I only need to practice with one set of ranges. I am able to hit what and where I am aiming much more easily.

Because shot placement matters more than anything else and everything else when it comes to deer hunting. And these broadheads help me place my shots better. That is the number one reason I like them. The better the hit, the cleaner the kill, the faster you can recover the deer and the better quality the meat. Here is a short video I did about how long to wait to recover a wounded deer from two different perspectives. 

Can You Re-Use Them?

People sometimes also say the no collar version of the broadheads is better than the collar version because you won’t run out of collars. Well, neither of these broadheads are very re-usable. They are essentially a one-shot tool. The arrows you can easily re-use, the broadheads rarely are. Rage does make replacement blades you can swap out, so if you do that and sharpen the point of the arrow and nothing is bent, you could re-use them.

But for the trouble and cost, I just throw on a new broadhead every time so I can have peace of mind than I am at 100% for the next deer. I do save my used broadheads that are still in good shape for small game or even turkey hunting. I asked Rage directly if the broadheads were typically single use items and they agreed that they are.

Mechanical vs. Fixed Blade Broadheads

I will not go into the same level of detail describing any specific fixed blade broadheads, but I want to mention the general pros and cons of them. The biggest three benefits that fixed blade broadheads have are less complexity, better able to break through bone, and are more easily re-usable. The cons are that they often drop faster or fly different than field tips, may have less range, and do less damage to the deer.

For me, and only me, I value the mechanical broadheads much higher than fixed blade versions. I prize the ability to accurately hit the deer above everything else, and the Rage’s excel in this area. I have not seen any reliability issue with the Rage’s despite their greater complexity, and I would not likely take the time to straighten and re-sharpen fixed blade broadheads after use anyway, so they would still be single use items for me. In terms of ability to “smash through bone”, you shouldn’t be doing anyway, as I noted previously.

So, for me, it is no contest. Accuracy trumps everything and being able to more speedily dispatch a well hit deer trumps any theoretical potential to break through bones I shouldn’t be aiming at. You may have different priorities and ways to rate the value of these tools for your use. Always use what fits YOU best.

The Cheapest Way To Get Them

I have found the most cost effective way to buy the Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadheads with a collar and without a collar is from Amazon. The prices fluctuate throughout the year but when they are low, especially for the version with a collar they can be very inexpensive. Always be on the lookout for good deals though. You never know where you might find a great price. I will buy them anytime during the year to keep my stock up to an acceptable level.

Conclusion & Recommendations

Are the Rage Hypodermic Crossbow Broadheads the best option on the market? I can’t say that. There are lots of other options I have yet to test. But of everything I have put my hands on, these are thus far the best tool I’ve come across. Why? I can hit what I’m aiming at better than anything else, they work every time, and they do all that a broadhead can do to bring down a deer fast and humanely. So I give them top marks.

Be sure to listen to The New Hunters Guide Podcast and check us out on YouTube.

Till next time. God bless you, and go get em in the woods!

George Konetes Ph.D. – Founder and Host of the New Hunters Guide.

The New Hunters Guide is simply what George wishes he would have had when learning how to hunt; a single place to get practical hands on knowledge about different kinds of hunting, gear, strategy, and tips that can improve your comfort and fun factor in the woods.

In this article, we study Moose compared to humans. Moose are a large, placid mammal found in North America. They share many similarities with humans, such as walking on two legs and possessing a strong immune system. However, there are also some key differences between Moose and humans. For example, Moose has larger heart than humans and can weigh up to 1,600 pounds! In addition, they have a longer gestation period than humans (around nine months) and give birth to one calf at a time.

Moose and humans have been living side by side for a long time, and these two species are so similar that one might wonder how they distinguish themselves. This article will answer the question, “What is the difference between moose and humans?”

In this article, we will see the difference between a moose and a human and examine the anatomy of both creatures to learn more about them.

Moose Compared To Human

Moose Size Comparison The Types of Moose

Moose are one of the largest species within the deer family. Several subspecies are found across the northern hemisphere, the largest being the Alaskan Moose, also known as the Yukon moose. They can stand up to 7.5 feet tall at the shoulder and weigh over 1,500 pounds.

The Eurasian elk or Moose is slightly smaller, with females averaging around 800-900 pounds while males weigh around 1,100-1,300 pounds. The Shiras moose, found in North America, is the smallest of the subspecies, with females weighing around 500-700 pounds and males weighing around 800-1,000 pounds.

Moose have long legs, a broad faces, and a distinctive “bell” or hanging dewlap under their chin. Despite their size, they are surprisingly good swimmers and can run up to 35 miles per hour over short distances. Moose are a fascinating and impressive species, with subtle differences in size and appearance across their range.

• Alaska Yukon Moose:

The Alaska Yukon moose is considered the largest subspecies of Moose worldwide. These massive animals can weigh 1,200 to 1,600 pounds and stand up to six feet tall at the shoulder. The largest recorded Alaska Yukon moose was a bull found in the Yukon Territory in Canada, which weighed in at a whopping 1,800 pounds and had antlers that spanned almost six feet across.

With their long legs and impressive antlers, these Moose are built for intimidating displays of strength during mating season. Hunters also prize them for their impressive size and meat, which is lean and high in protein. While the largest Alaska Yukon moose ever recorded may be an anomaly, these impressive animals are still a sight in their natural habitat.

• Yellowstone Moose:

The Yellowstone Moose, known for their enormous size, are found in the forests of North America and are one of the largest breeds of Moose in the world. The largest recorded Moose was a Bull Alaskan Moose, which weighed over 2,000 lbs and had antlers spanning over 6 feet in width. Despite its enormous size, the Moose is a gentle giant and has never been known to attack humans unprovoked.

Moose prefer to live in isolation and be more active in the early morning and late afternoon. They are herbivores and enjoy a diet of grasses, aquatic plants, and leaves. The Yellowstone Moose’s population has steadily decreased, primarily due to habitat loss and hunting. However, conservation efforts have been implemented to protect and preserve the species. Overall, the size of the largest Moose in the world is a breathtaking sight to see and can only be appreciated through firsthand experience.

Five Cool Facts About the Moose

The Moose, also known as the elk, is a majestic creature in North America. Here are five cool facts about the Moose that you may not know.

• Male Moose, or bulls as they are called, can weigh up to 1,500 pounds and stand up to 7 feet tall, making them one of the largest land animals in North America.
• Contrary to popular belief, the Moose is not entirely mute and can vocalize through various sounds, including grunts and bellows.
• Moose have specially designed nose that allows them to breathe through the snow, making it easier to survive in their natural habitat during the winter months.
• The Moose is an excellent swimmer and can move through the water at up to 6 miles per hour. This unique skill allows them to cross large bodies of water, which other animals would find impossible.
• Moose can run up to 35 miles per hour, which, despite their large size, is surprisingly fast. This speed has allowed them to outrun predators and escape danger in the wild. While there are many fascinating animals in North America, the Moose certainly stands out as one of the most interesting and unique creatures nature offers.

Moose vs. Human Size Comparison

When it comes to size comparison between Moose and humans, there is simply no contest. Moose are large and imposing animals, often standing up to 6 feet at the shoulders and weighing up to 1,500 pounds. The average human male is roughly 5 feet 9 inches tall and weighs around 200 pounds. As such, a moose can make a human feel very small indeed.

One of the most striking things about a moose’s size is its antlers. These appendages can grow to be as wide as 6 feet and weigh up to 70 pounds, making them the largest antlers of any mammal in the world. And while they may not use them to attack humans, Moose are known to be extremely territorial and can become aggressive if they feel threatened or cornered.

Overall, while humans may be able to outsmart or outmaneuver Moose in certain situations, there is no denying these majestic animals’ sheer size and power. When encountering a moose in the wild, it is essential to show respect and caution, as they are capable of causing serious harm if provoked. Additionally, it is important to remain vigilant when driving in areas with moose populations, as collisions with these animals can be deadly for both parties involved. Despite their intimidating size, Moose are fascinating creatures that deserve our admiration and protection.

Moose Size Comparison to a Horse

Moose are one of the largest animals in the deer family and are known for their enormous size. They are much larger than horses in terms of height and weight. On average, a moose can stand up to six feet tall at the shoulder and weigh anywhere between 800 to 1400 pounds, almost twice the weight of the average horse.

Their massive antlers can measure up to six feet in width, adding to their impressive size. In comparison, horses are much smaller, with an average height of 15-16 hands and a weight between 800 to 1200 pounds. Standing next to a fully grown moose, you can easily see the significant physical differences between the two animals. Overall, Moose are one of the largest land animals in North America, and their impressive size is just one of the many fascinating things about them.

Moose Size Comparison to an Elk

Moose are the largest deer species in the world, with adult males weighing between 1,000 to 1,500 pounds, while females are smaller, weighing around 800 to 1,000 pounds. In comparison, adult male elk weigh around 700 pounds, while females weigh around 500 pounds. Moose also stand taller than elk, with males reaching up to 6 feet and females around 5 feet at the shoulder. Elk, on the other hand, stand around 4 to 5 feet at the shoulder.

Moose also have larger antlers than elk, with a span of up to 6 feet, whereas elk antlers generally span about 5 feet. The size difference between Moose and elk is due to their different habitats and behaviors. Moose live in colder, more forested areas, while elk typically inhabit more open areas such as grasslands. As such, Moose needs to be bigger and more agile to navigate through dense vegetation.

Moose Size Comparison to a Bison

Moose and bison are both majestic animals often found in the wild. However, when it comes to size, Moose are generally larger than bison. A fully-grown bull moose can weigh up to 1,500 pounds and reach six and a half feet tall at the shoulder. A typical male bison weighs between 800 to 2,000 pounds and stands around six feet tall at the shoulder.

The main physical difference between the two is their antlers and horns. Moose have broad, flat antlers which can span up to six feet across, while bison have shorter, curved horns. Regarding their overall appearance, both animals have distinctive humped shoulder and large head, which is used for grazing on vegetation. Despite their differences, these majestic creatures are both vital to the ecosystem and remain an important symbol of the wild west.

Moose Size Comparison to an Elephant

The Moose and the elephant are two very different but majestic animals. Regarding size comparison, the elephant is the larger of the two. An average adult elephant can weigh anywhere from 5,000 to 14,000 pounds, while a bull moose weighs in at around 1,200 pounds. Elephants can also stand anywhere from 8 to 13 feet tall, while Moose are typically only around 6.5 to 7 feet tall at the shoulder.

Moose does have one advantage over elephants, though, in terms of antlers. A male moose’s antlers can span up to 6 feet across, while elephants do not have any antlers or tusks that can compare. Overall, while both animals are impressive in their ways, elephants take the cake regarding their sheer size.

How Big Is a Full-Grown Moose?

The full-grown Moose is one of the largest land mammals found in North America and Europe. Standing on all four legs, a male moose can reach up to 7 feet at the shoulder, while a female can measure up to 5 feet. Their weight can vary depending on the season, but on average, a bull can weigh anywhere between 800-1500 pounds, while a female can weigh between 600-800 pounds.

Their antlers are also a distinguishing feature, with males having broad, curved antlers measuring up to 6 feet wide. However, females also have antlers, usually smaller and less noticeable. Moose are known for their intimidating size, and despite their large size, they are also agile swimmers and runners. Seeing a moose in the wild is often a highlight for tourists, as they are unique and fascinating creatures.

How Big Is the Largest Moose in the World?

The largest Moose in the world, commonly known as the Alaskan Moose, can grow over 7 feet tall and weigh upwards of 1,600 pounds. These majestic creatures are found primarily in Alaska, Canada, and parts of Scandinavia and are known for their massive antlers that can reach up to 6 feet in width. The largest recorded Alaskan Moose had antlers that spanned 79 inches, making it nearly impossible to imagine how impressive and intimidating these animals can be.

Despite their imposing size, these Moose are generally docile and avoid confrontation with humans. However, they are still considered one of the most challenging big-game animals to hunt due to their elusive nature and the harsh terrain in which they are typically found. The Alaskan Moose is undoubtedly a remarkable animal that commands respect and awe for its sheer size and power.

How Big Are Moose Compared to Humans?

Moose are much larger than humans. An average moose can grow up to 6.5 feet tall at the shoulder and weigh up to 1,800 pounds, while the average human is around 5.6 feet tall and weighs around 160 pounds. Moose has a towering presence and can be intimidating, especially when encountered up close.

How Big Is a Moose Compared to a Bison?

A moose is typically larger than a bison. While the average adult bison stands around 6 feet tall and weighs between 900 and 2,000 pounds, a male moose can reach up to 7 feet tall and weigh between 800 and 1,800 pounds. The antlers of a male moose can also add 4 to 5 feet in height.

How Strong Is a Moose?

Moose are incredibly strong and powerful animals. Adult males, or bulls, can weigh up to 1500 pounds and stand over seven feet tall. Their thick muscles and strong bones allow them to charge through deep snow and rough terrain, easily breaking through tree branches. Moose are formidable competitors in the animal kingdom and should not be underestimated.

What Is the Size of a Baby Moose?

A baby moose is typically born weighing between 25 and 35 pounds and standing about 3 feet tall. As they grow, they can reach a height of up to 6 feet at the shoulder and weigh around 1,200 pounds as adults. The actual size of a baby moose may vary depending on the sub-species and location where they are born.

What is a Moose, and what are they like?

Moose are large, brown mammals living in cold climates worldwide. Moose are the largest land animals in North America and can weigh up to 2,000 pounds. They have two big antlers on their heads that they use to fight for mates and food. The Moose is a shy animal that survives by grazing on grasses and shrubs.

Moose are large mammals weighing up to 1,500 pounds and standing as tall as 6 feet at the shoulder. There are two main types of Moose: the North American Black and the Brown. These moose varieties have unique physical features that set them apart from other mammalian species. For example, Brown moose have large heads with short ears, while North American Black Moose have smaller heads with long ears.

Another distinguishing feature of Moose is their antlers. Antlers give these animals their name – they are similar to horns in shape and size, but they grow on all four legs instead of just on the head. Moose use their antlers to dig for food or to defend themselves against predators. Antler growth is limited by testosterone – when males reach sexual maturity, their antlers start to grow rapidly to attract mates.

While North American Black and Brown moose share many of the same characteristics, they have some differences! For example, Brown moose are more likely than North American Black Moose to inhabit thickly forested environments. At the same time, North American Black Moose are more likely to live in open areas near water sources. Overall, though, Moose are fascinating creatures that deserve our attention – not only for their impressive physical features but also for their unique behavior and ecology.

What is a Human, and how do they differ from Moose?

A human is a warm-blooded mammalian species that stands upright on two legs and has a head with a large brain. They differ in many ways from Moose, the largest land animal in North America. For one, humans are much smaller than Moose. A male moose can weigh up to 1,500 pounds and measure 10 feet tall at the shoulder. Meanwhile, a human female typically weighs about 150 pounds and stands only 4 feet tall at the shoulder. Additionally, humans have shorter noses and ears than Moose. Their fur varies in color from black, brown, gray, or white.

Humans have adaptations that allow them to thrive in colder climates than other mammals. For example, humans have a layer of insulation around their body called a fatty layer which helps keep them warm in cold weather conditions. Humans also have larger lungs that allow them to take in more oxygen when they are running or skiing, allowing them to stay warm for longer periods. Finally, humans have thicker skin than most other mammals which helps protect them from injuries in cold weather conditions.

How does Moose live, and what is their diet?

Compared to humans: Moose are large, hairy, and surprisingly agile animals that can travel up to 30 miles daily. They live in the northern hemisphere and eat mostly plants, though they will also eat small mammals, birds, and fish. Moose have a long gestation period (up to 12 months) and give birth to one or two calves. Cows and calves are scrawny initially but quickly gain weight as they forage for food.

Moose are massive animals and can weigh up to two thousand pounds, and they live in the coldest parts of North America, including Alaska and Canada. Moose are herbivores whose diet consists mainly of grass, leaves, and other plants.

How do humans live, and what is their diet?

In Moose compared to humans: Humans are currently the dominant species on Earth and have developed civilizations and cultures that span the globe. Humans rely on plants and animals for food, but what is the difference between a Moose and a human? Moose compared to humans, so a Moose has a longer life expectancy than a human. They can live up to 25 years in the wild, while humans can only live around 70. A Moose’s diet consists mainly of vegetation (grass, leaves, etc.), while humans have evolved to be omnivorous. This means that they eat both plants and animals.

Why are Moose different from humans: Moose compared to a human?

Moose are different from humans in many ways. For one, they are much larger and have a thicker fur coat than humans. Moose also have longer noses than humans, and their ears are smaller. They also have a differently shaped brain than humans, which may explain why they are better at some tasks than humans, such as navigating in the wild.

When Moose is compared to humans, then Moose is one of the most iconic and recognizable animals in North America. They are large, bulky creatures that stand on two legs and have a long necks. Moose are different from humans in many ways. For example, Moose has four teats instead of two, which helps them to nurse their young.

Moose also have longer tails than humans, and they move more slowly than people do – making them slower runners on average. Additionally, Moose have different adaptations for survival in their environment: they have long noses that help them find food underwater and big antlers that help them defend themselves against predators.

Conclusion

Moose are huge animals that can weigh up to two thousand pounds and have several distinguishing features compared to humans. For one, Moose, compared to humans, Moose have shorter necks than humans and larger heads. Additionally, their ears are relatively small, and they lack a chin. Moose also typically have longer legs than humans, which gives them an advantage when running away from danger or chasing down food.

Finally, Moose tend to possess darker fur than humans, making it more difficult for predators to see in the forested areas where they live.

The biggest difference between Moose and humans is that Moose have a higher level of omega-3 fatty acids in their diet. This means they have a lower risk of heart disease and other chronic diseases, so they are hunted for their meat in some parts of the world. Additionally, their hair contains more moisture than human hair, so it can be used to make clothing and other products.

FAQs

How big is a moose compared to a human?

Moose are much larger than humans, with adult males reaching a height of around 6-7 feet at the shoulder and weighing up to 1500 pounds. Females are slightly smaller but still much larger than the average human. Moose are impressive animals with their massive size and unique antlers, making them a sight in the wild.

How big is the biggest Moose?

The biggest Moose ever recorded was a male Alaskan moose that weighed over 1,800 pounds and stood over 7 feet tall at the shoulders. These massive creatures can have antlers that span over 6 feet and can weigh up to 40 pounds each. Moose are the largest members of the deer family and are found in North America, Scandinavia, and Russia.

What animal is the same size as a moose?

The elk, also known as a wapiti, is the same size as a moose, and they are both members of the deer family and can weigh up to 1000 pounds. However, the Moose tends to be taller due to its longer legs, while the elk has a more slender build.

Why is Moose so strong?

Moose are incredibly strong animals due to a combination of factors, including their large size, muscular build, and dense bones. They can carry and lift objects that weigh up to 1,000 pounds, making them some of the strongest animals in the world. Moose also has a unique way of walking that helps distribute their weight evenly, making them more stable and capable of navigating rough terrain.

Why is Moose so strong?

Moose are incredibly strong due to several factors. Their large size and muscular build allow them to carry their massive antlers and navigate difficult terrain. Moose also has an extremely efficient digestive system, allowing them to extract maximum nutrients from their food, giving them the energy to maintain their strength. Finally, Moose have a keen spatial awareness and an innate ability to adapt to their environment, making them powerful and successful animals in the wild.

In the early 1950s, Robert Ruark set off for British East Africa having never killed an animal with a rifle before. His safari battery—a .220 Swift, .30-06 Springfield, .375 H&H and a .470 Nitro Express—was based on the recommendations of friends; he was well advised. While the latter three rifles make up a well-rounded safari battery, it was Bob’s professional hunter—Mr. Harry Selby—who had what would become the most famous rifle of the lot. It was made by Rigby of London on a Mauser 98 action, chambered for a proprietary cartridge: the .416 Rigby.

From its release in 1911 until the beginning of WWII, there were less than two hundred .416 Rigbys made, yet it had developed a great reputation among the serious hunters in East Africa. The design of the huge case, with the 45 degree shoulder and its immense girth, points directly at cordite—the common smokeless propellant at the time of the .416’s inception. Being highly temperature sensitive, cordite would generate dangerous pressures in the tropical heat, resulting in cases being stuck in their receivers. When pursuing dangerous game this is never a good thing. So Rigby designed a very large case in order to keep those pressures down. Driving a 410-grain bullet at 2370 fps, it quickly developed a reputation for being a big-game stopper; few hunters who ever used one for any length of time ever had a complaint. While relatively rare, hunters like John ‘Pondoro’ Taylor loved it, and even W.D.M. ‘Karamoja’ Bell ordered more than one. However, at the end of WWII, Kynoch—the major British ammunition manufacturer—was in financial ruin and ammunition became increasingly rare.

The bore diameter refused to fade, with several important developments that aided its relevance. Bob Chatfield-Taylor necked down the belted .458 Winchester case to hold .416″ bullets, resulting in the .416 Taylor, and American professional hunter George Hoffman necked up the .375 H&H case to give us the .416 Hoffman. Both are sound designs, with the Taylor being housed in a .30-06-length action, and the Hoffman requiring a magnum-length action.

Fast forward to the late 1980s, and we see Remington releasing a very Hoffman-like cartridge: the .416 Remington Magnum. Loosely based on the ailing 8mm Remington Magnum (the 8mm and .416 share the 25 degree shoulder), the .416 Remington adopted the ballistic formula of the later .416 Rigby loads: a 400-grain bullet, at a muzzle velocity of 2400 fps, for 5,000 ft.-lbs. of energy. This came at a price though, in the form of higher chamber pressures. If that didn’t make the shooting world cock an eyebrow, the Model 700 rifle it was chambered in featured a push-feed design (as they all have) and a relatively small extractor. Several instances in truly hot weather—like Zambezi Valley hot—saw some broken extractors and stuck cases, resulting in a hunter holding a club instead of a rifle. I firmly believe those situations arose more from a rifle design problem than from the cartridge. I’ve used the .416 Rem. Mag.—in a controlled round feed Winchester Model 70—in temperatures approaching and exceeding 100˚F and have never had an issue.

Undoubtedly, the Rigby and Remington variants on this bore diameter are the top dogs in this fight, with the .416 Weatherby and .416 Ruger becoming more obscure each year. The .416s fill a definite gap between the very flexible .375s and the heavyweight .458s, giving a best-of-both-worlds solution to the need for a cartridge that will shoot relatively flat, yet have the horsepower to tackle huge beasts at close ranges. So, which .416 do you choose and why?

Firstly, let’s agree that both cartridges—handloading aside—have identical ballistics, pushing a 400-grain bullet at 2400 fps, so velocity is off the menu. Secondly—without steering this into another campfire argument—I believe that a bolt-action rifle for dangerous game should be in the controlled round feed configuration, with a beefy extractor. Too many times I have been in a place where you absolutely depend on a rifle of this caliber, and a broken extractor would be a terrible thing. Both cartridges require positive extraction, each and every time, and I’ll reiterate: the .416 Remington has posed no issue, irrespective of temperature, in a CRF rifle.

So, with the ballistics being equal and the pressure differences posing no problem, who has the advantage? This is one of the rare instances where you’ll see me give the nod to a new design over the old, especially among the African cartridges; I do, in fact, prefer the .416 Rem. Mag. over the .416 Rigby, and I’ll cite the reasons why.

Magazine capacity is my first reason. The Rigby case measures 0.5949″ at its widest, while the Remington (and all the H&H family) measures .0.532″ at the belt; that difference allows for greater magazine capacity for the slimmer cartridge. When it comes to dangerous game, more is better.

Length is also an issue. The Rigby cartridge requires a longer (read heavier) action than the Remington does, which adds weight and expense. There are fewer of these actions made, and therefore they are less-readily available. The .416 Remington rifles can be made more affordably. Thirdly, there is the cost of ammunition. Rigby ammunition is expensive, roughly 30 percent more than .416 Remington ammo. When you take into consideration the cost of a dangerous game safari, it’s a minimal investment, but the Remington represents a better value for identical ballistics.

I’ve also found the recoil of the Rigby cartridge to exceed that of the Remington cartridge. I can and do handle both, but there is a noticeable difference, more than likely caused by the larger powder charge in the bigger Rigby case required to attain the velocity.

If you prefer the Rigby based on cool-factor alone, I totally get it. It deserves the respect it gets; it’s been with us for over a century, and it immediately conjures images of the classic safari era. But looking at it from a practical point of view, I give the edge to the .416 Remington; I’ve shot mine for years, and wouldn’t hesitate to take it anywhere in the world with me.

Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.

The 17 HMR is among the finest commercial rimfires cartridges available. It is accurate, easy to shoot, and a well-placed shot is fatal for most animals. It’s widely considered one of the most accurate rimfire rifles and the best small game hunting gun available on the market.

The best animals to hunt with a 17 HMR are raccoons, rabbits, prairie dogs, squirrels, and coyotes. The 17 HMR is one of the most accurate rifles for hunting, and precision is of the utmost importance when hunting small animals.

The rest of this article will delve into the best animals to hunt with a 17 HMR.

1. Rabbits

Every year, almost 1.5 million Americans go rabbit hunting. Most states permit rabbit hunting, and some even pay professional hunters to reduce the rabbit population in areas where they’ve become invasive.

While hunting rabbits may seem easy, you’ll have to prepare thoroughly for a successful hunt. Rabbits are excellent listeners and are likely to hear you from a distance. If you wait long enough, they may escape what they believe to be a threat.

Most shooters choose the 17 HMR as their weapon of choice for rabbit hunting since it is the most effective and precise rimfire cartridges.

The typical rimfire’s rifle trajectory is not as good as the 17 HMR, which also has a faster velocity. Considering that a lighter projectile is less wind-resistant, a faster projectile also means less time for winds to steer the bullet off course.

Because of this, 17 HMR is an excellent choice for rabbit hunting.

2. Squirrels

Squirrels are challenging to hunt because of their unpredictable movements and ability to move through tree canopies. Squirrel hunting seasons are long, and hunters can legally chase squirrels for several months or more per year.

The 17 HMR is popular for squirrel hunting because the soft recoil makes it a pleasure for hunters to shoot. At 100 yards (91.44 m), the 17 HMR fires flat enough to be effective while delivering 88 ft pounds (119 Joules) of energy.

The 17 HMR cartridges offer advantages beyond just being a flat-shooting varmint cartridge. Compared to other alternatives, the 17 HMR delivers far less flesh damage while providing an even flatter trajectory and typically higher accuracy.

Simply put, as long as you do your part to make an excellent shot, a 17 HMR will allow you to strike a squirrel from just about any visible distance.

When hunting squirrels, however, avoid shooting through the trees unless you’re an experienced hunter. There’s a high chance that the bullet may bounce off the tree and injure you.

Related How To Choose the Best Rifle for Target Shooting.

3. Raccoons

The 17 HMR is a long-range knockdown weapon that is flat-shooting, very adaptable, and built on a rimfire platform. It has a flatter trajectory than the 22LR, so you might want to use this for small game like raccoons if you’re further away.

One important thing about a 17 caliber bullet is that the bullet diameter is less than that of the case. This gives you more accuracy when you’re hunting raccoons to help protect ground-nesting birds or just for pleasure.

The 17 HMR can use bullet types well-known to centerfire shooters and has outstanding ballistic eco-efficiency, resulting in a perfect shot from a distance of 200 yards (183 m) or fewer.

4. Prairie Dogs

Although relatively harmless, prairie dogs are pests in many areas. They breed swiftly, similar to other small mammals, and an uncontrolled population might seriously harm the meadows and farms they graze on. Livestock, such as horses and cattle, can suffer severe damage from the tunnels they dig.

They may also spread fleas and carry diseases that are potentially dangerous to humans and livestock.

Hunting prairie dogs is different from hunting other animals because of their relative speed. The most popular caliber for prairie dog hunting is undoubtedly the 17 HMR because of the good velocity and medium wind drift characteristics.

It is also the cheapest option and readily available. The 17 HMR is a powerful, flat-shooting, versatile rimfire cartridge that gives long-range knockdown power. It is the best option for medium to long-range shooting of prairie dogs and better than the 22LR for this animal.

While they’re not as twitchy as rabbits, they are certainly aware of their surroundings, so you’ll have to be patient and quiet when hunting them.

5. Coyotes

Coyotes are another pest that you could hunt with the 17 HMR. However, you’ll have to manage your distance and shot placement extremely well when doing so. Coyotes are much bigger than varmints typically hunted with the 17 HMR, but a well-placed shot should still drop the animal immediately.

Nevertheless, most experts won’t recommend shooting coyotes with a 17 HMR unless you’re closer than 100 yards (91.44 m) from the animal. From further away, you may even need two or three shots to finish the coyote, which is against hunting ethics.

If you’re an experienced hunter, a 17 HMR may not be right for you in this case. However, if you can get close enough, this rifle should do the trick.

For more, check out Best All-Around Camouflage Pattern Across Multiple Biomes.

There are a variety of dog breeds that make excellent hunting dogs. The Labrador Retriever, Mountain Cur, Vizsla, and even the short Beagle, are a few examples of the perfect hunting companion. Although these dogs look completely different in color, size, and structure, they share the same instinctual nature: hunting. A hunting dog needs to have boundless energy to complete the tasks set by its owners. They need good muscle strength and strong bones to catch or retrieve game and walk long distances.

A hunting dog’s diet is vital for them to excel in their abilities and must include plenty of good nutrition. Always take your dog’s energy level, age, sensitivities, and weight into consideration when buying food.

We’ve listed a few great hunting dog food options below complete with in-depth reviews to help you in your search—but remember that due to their high protein and fat content, they’ll lead to weight gain if fed to an inactive dog. You may want to switch your dog’s food when out of hunting season.

A Glance at Our Winners in 2024

The 11 Best Foods for Hunting Dogs

1. Ollie Fresh Dog Food Beef Recipe Subscription Service – Best Overall

Hunting dogs work up quite the appetite in a day’s work. That is why it’s important to choose a hardy dog food that will satisfy their hunger while ensuring they receive the proper nutrients to maintain an active lifestyle. Ollie Fresh Dog Food Beef Recipe is our best overall pick for food for hunting dogs since this recipe is appealing, nutritious, and filling. With a limited ingredient list, starting with real meat proteins (also available in chicken, turkey, or lamb) and fresh vegetables rich in vitamins, minerals, and fiber, you can trust that your dog will be happy and healthy. Ollie’s meals are free of any byproducts or additives and are suitable for all life stages.

Once you complete a short questionnaire about your dog based on its age, weight, breed, and dietary needs, Ollie provides you with customized meal plans. You can also adjust the frequency of your deliveries, which eliminates the risk of running out of stock and last-minute trips to the store.

If you are looking for a dog food rich in antioxidants, that promotes healthy digestion and supports an active lifestyle, look no further than Ollie Dog Food.

Taste of the Wild High Prairie Grain-Free Dry Dog Food has three excellent first ingredients of water buffalo, lamb meal, and chicken meal, resulting in a high protein content of 32% for a low and affordable price, making this our favorite budget food for hunting dogs.

It has a fat content of 18% and contains complex carbs to give your hunting dog the energy they need while keeping them feeling full until its next meal. It contains prebiotics to improve your dog’s gut, resulting in less gas and healthier poop. The omega-3 improves their coat, leaving it soft and shiny. This dog food isn’t every dog’s pick, however, as some simply refuse to eat it.

Puppies need the best, and Adirondack’s dog recipe gives them just that, at an affordable price point. This puppy food is well-balanced and contains 30% protein and 20% fat to develop your pup into a strong and healthy dog that has lean muscles, ready for the hunting grounds.

This tasty meal is slow-cooked to preserve as many nutrients as possible and is free from fillers and artificial flavors. All the ingredients are from the USA and are of high quality. It’s suitable for pups with sensitive tummies and will pack the weight that they’ve lost back on in no time. Kibbles are small, which is great for pups but a struggle for bigger dogs.

Although expensive, ORIJEN Regional Red Grain-Free Dry Dog Food is well-loved by both dogs and owners and has every reason to be at the top of our list as our premium choice. With beef, wild boar, goat, lamb, and lamb liver as the first few ingredients, you already know that this is a meal suited for a high-performance dog, with a 38% protein content. It includes essential vitamins and minerals, with the remaining 85% consisting of animal ingredients.

The kibbles are freeze-dried coated, locking in the fresh, tasty ingredients. Dogs on this kibble often experience better skin and a reduction in rashes and shedding. They often start smelling better, too—from their breath to their odor. The only downsides are the price, and that the bag isn’t resealable.

Specifically designed for hunting dogs is the Inukshuk Professional Dry Dog Food. Due to its 30% protein and 25% fat your dog will receive the high nutrition and high energy necessary for a high-performance lifestyle. It’s also packed with prebiotics and omega-3 fatty acids to keep your dog healthy and their coat flourishing, along with aiding in good joints for their activities.

This kibble is nutrient-dense and contains 578 kcal/cup, which means that you can give your dog everything they need in a smaller serving of food, which ultimately saves you money. Inukshuk is a family-owned business that cares about dogs, and they give you the option to buy straight from them too.

The VICTOR Classic Hi-Pro Plus Formula Dry Dog Food is another great dog food for hunting dogs. 88% of this dog food is made of meat protein, with some of its ingredients being beef meal, pork meal, and chicken meal, giving your dog plenty of nourishing proteins.

It’s also high in fat, with a crude content of 20%, giving your hunting dog the energy they need for high performance. It’s suitable for active puppies and adults, as well as lactating females. It’s also packed with vitamins and minerals to maintain your dog’s health and is highly digestible.

All the ingredients in this product are sourced from the USA, with none of them containing gluten, corn, wheat, or grain. The kibble is small, though, and may prove challenging to eat for large dogs.

Even though the Wellness Core Grain-Free Original Deboned Turkey, Turkey Meal & Chicken Meal Recipe Dry Dog Food is pricey, it’s highly worth it and acts as one of the best foods you can get for your hunting dog.

Since it’s made from human ingredients, it’s packed with nutritious value. Most dogs love this food and tend to get upset if you switch from it.

Overall, it’s good for your dog’s coat and gives them a strong muscle tone. If you have the budget for food of this quality, we highly suggest that you do.

Taking it even higher in price is the Purina Pro Plan 30/20 Chicken & Rice Formula Dry Dog Food. We love this food as it is specially made for high-performance dogs, making it a perfect option for hunting dogs.

It’s a high-calorie food that will keep your dog energized and happy. The ingredients put focus on protein, which is the main reason why this food will keep an active dog energized. On top of that, it includes live probiotics that aid in your dog’s health.

Unfortunately, the food’s price has suddenly increased over the past while, leading many people to switch their dogs to something more affordable.

One interesting thing about the Blue Buffalo Wilderness Chicken Recipe Grain-Free Dry Dog Food is that it comes in small kibble sizes. While this may make some dogs frustrated, it’s great for hunting dogs that tend to eat their food incredibly quickly.

We love that it includes healthy carbs in the ingredients from foods such as peas and sweet potatoes. It’s also made with real chicken to help your dog put on lean muscle.

If you do not want small kibbles, you can move on from this particular option but if you’re happy with the kibble size, your hunting dog is sure to love the taste of this food.

Nature’s Logic Canine Duck & Salmon Meal is dog food for puppies and adults that are active in hunting, working, and sporting. It has one of the highest crude protein levels on this list at 38% and contains ingredients such as duck meal, turkey meal, and salmon meal.

This recipe is natural, right down to the packaging that was produced with renewable electricity. There are a couple of kibble options to choose from, allowing you to change your dog’s food up a bit, never giving them the chance to get bored. The price has increased a lot recently, though, which has left a few consistent customers unhappy.

The Holistic Select Adult Health Lamb Meal Recipe Dry Dog Food is excellent for picky eaters. Sometimes, all the different flavors can be too much for a sensitive dog, and they may do better on this single-protein dog food. The first three ingredients are lamb meal, oatmeal, and peas, and the rest are made up of probiotics, antioxidants, omega-3, glucosamine, and taurine that protect your dog’s heart and body.

The protein content is less than other dog foods on this list at 23% and a fat content of 15%, but that can be enjoyed on off-seasons when they don’t require as much energy as on the hunting grounds require but enough to keep them active for hiking and other outdoor activities. The downside is that there have been a few quality-control issues around this particular dog food.

Buyer’s Guide: Buying the Best Dog Food for Hunting Dogs

All the dog foods listed above are good, but how do you know they’re good for your dog specifically? Well, you’ll need to make the decision based on your dog’s lifestyle, weight, health issues, and age. If your dog doesn’t have any health concerns, any of these foods will do them well. However, if you’re considering a different food option for your hunting dog, there are a few factors that you should take into consideration.

Protein

First and foremost, your hunting dog needs a high-protein diet. Protein builds strong, lean muscles that give them the force to run, catch, and retrieve game while hunting. Make sure that an animal-derived protein is first on the list of ingredients because it’ll indicate that it’s the most amount ingredient in the product, which is what your hunting dog needs.

Also, look out for dog foods that have the name of the meat at the start of its name, as this indicates that the product will have at least 95% of the ingredients in the product. Venison, chicken, fish, and lamb are good, tasty protein options.

Carbohydrates and Fat

Your dog food should contain around 20% carbohydrates. Carbohydrates provide your dog with energy, but fats do too. Fats offer longer-lasting energy and contain lots of calories. The good fat content will give your hunting dog the energy and endurance they need, produce a healthy coat, and increase wound healing. However, they can increase the risk of obesity.

Avoid Fillers

Many people have a negative understanding of by-products when it comes to dog food; however, most are completely safe and nutritious for your dog. Although they’re not suitable for people to eat, dogs will benefit from them as they come directly from an animal. By-products include the lungs, brain, liver, bone, intestines, etc., that aren’t dangerous to dogs.

Large amounts of fillers, on the other hand, should be avoided. They’re used in place of natural, high-quality ingredients and can lead to health issues, allergic reactions, and problematic weight gain. Most dog foods contain a few fillers, which is okay if they’re near the bottom of the ingredients list. Some fillers, such as rice, are considered “good” fillers, while you should always avoid MSG and syrups.

Energy

The number of calories you should serve your dog is going to depend on their weight and energy levels. During hunting season, your dog will burn more calories and will require more energy to perform well. Even the weather has an impact on their energy levels—if they’re hunting in the cold, they’ll be burning even more calories because their bodies will be working harder to keep them warm.

When your dog isn’t hunting, it won’t require as many calories because it won’t be burning as much energy. Feeding your dog the same number of calories as you fed them during hunting season may result in unhealthy weight gain.

A hunting dog burns more energy than a normal dog and, therefore, requires high-performance food, which differs from normal dog food with its higher protein and fat content.

Final Thoughts

At the top of our list is the Ollie Fresh Dog Food, thanks to the high meat protein and limited, human-grade ingredient list. The best budget dog food on our list is the Taste of the Wild High Prairie Grain-Free Dry Dog Food. It may be cheaper, but it doesn’t skimp on quality.

Remember to use these food options during hunting seasons as the high protein and fat content will cause weight gain if consumed the same way during off-seasons.

Featured Image Credit: Nadezhda Zaitseva, Shutterstock

Ron Jolly | Originally published in GameKeepers: Farming for Wildlife Magazine. To subscribe, click here.

I remember being cold! I remember the fog on the Tensas River in northeast Louisiana hung like a thick blanket in the air. The myriad of sound coming from the hardwood forest on the river’s bank was a bit confusing to my ears. The waves lapping on the side of an old Jon boat was another distraction. My Dad sat in the stern of the boat and I sat on the middle seat with his best friend Mr. Sonny Hudnall. I remember straining my ears to hear a sound they were hearing that I could not. Their mission was for me to hear my first wild turkey gobble. Again Mr. Sonny asked, “Did you hear that?” Sure, I thought. I hear water on the side of the boat, birds in the trees, water dripping off the trees into the river. “Did I hear what?” was my answer. “It will sound like oble, oble, oble,” said Mr. Sonny.

I strained to hear the sound and finally thought I did. “Was that him?” I asked. My Dad leaned close to my ear from behind and said, “Son, that was the turkey you just heard. He has gobbled six times since we have been here. He is about a quarter-mile away. You just have to learn to separate all the sounds from the sound you want to hear. Focus on that sound and you will hear it clearly. The secret to hearing is in the listening!”

That morning was the first time I heard a wild turkey gobble. There have been many lessons learned about wild turkeys since that morning over fifty years ago, but none as important as how to listen for, and hear turkeys. Here are some tips that will help you.

Know What You Are Listening For

Learning what to listen for is the first step to hearing more turkeys. The gobble of the wild turkey is one of the most unique sounds in nature. To the experienced turkey hunter there is no other sound that can be confused with a gobble. To the novice it is a sound that can be hard to discern, especially when it is far away. Even harder to detect are the more subtle sounds made by turkeys such as drumming, yelps, and scratching in leaves. All these sounds can tell you that turkeys are near.

There are three places turkeys make sounds—when they are in the tree, when they are flying into or out of the tree, and when they are on the ground. Turkeys gobble, yelp, cackle and drum in the tree and on the ground. Turkey hens often cackle when flying up to or down from the roost. The thump of wings is another distinct sound made by turkeys. In most cases a gobble in the tree has a different sound than a gobble made on the ground. It is clearer and less muffled.

As a general rule a gobble made in a tree can be heard twice as far as one made on the ground. That same “twice-as-far” rule applies to all other turkey sounds.

Judging distance and coursing sound are other factors in turkey hunting success. Hearing a turkey sound and identifying that sound is step one.

To successfully hunt that turkey you must know the direction the sound came from and how far away it was. The first step to hearing more turkeys is to know what turkeys sound like. Experience and exposure to turkeys can teach you what to listen for. A better way is to watch other hunters. Videos and DVD’s put you in the woods with experienced hunters.

Listen to the sounds on the DVDs and learn how turkeys sound in the wild from your living room. Some companies offer videos dealing with nothing but turkey sounds and identifying what each sound is and what it means.

Isolate and Concentrate

The second step to hearing more turkeys is to isolate yourself from any distracting noise. If you are listening with a hunting partner, distance yourself from your partner. This will eliminate any distracting sounds they make or the temptation to talk. It also helps to triangulate the sound’s direction.

Choose a listening place where you can stand or sit motionless and be comfortable. I like to rest my back against a tree or sit on a log. I do not shuffle my feet in the leaves and I do not tinker with gear. I focus on hearing turkeys. You probably think I am talking only about hearing a gobble, and that is true for the most part, but eliminating any distracting noise applies when you are listening for turkey sounds in general.

Sound Advice

Two-time World Turkey Calling Champion Larry Norton is an experienced turkey hunter who has spent years guiding clients at commercial hunting operations like Bent Creek Lodge in Alabama. Norton offers some good advice on hearing more turkeys. “I guide hunters who have hunted for years and hunters who are hunting turkeys for the first time. It is our job to get each hunter on a turkey and hopefully get that hunter a shot. That all starts with hearing, coursing and getting into position on a gobbler,” says Norton.

“I like to start on high ground. From there I can hear more country. Many of my clients like to stand close or talk while we are listening for a roosted gobbler. I simply tell them in order to start the hunt we have to first hear a gobble and I can do that best when there are no distractions. Most hunters understand this and give me space.”

“At this point we are listening at day break for sounds turkeys make in the tree. We are primarily listening for a gobble but other sounds can disclose where turkeys are. If I hear hens tree yelping, cutting or plain yelping I know where a flock is located. I hope to hear a gobble, but if I do not I still assume a gobbler is near. If I do not hear a gobble at another location I will go to the hens and hope a gobbler will fire up after the flock flies down. At least I know I have put my client near turkeys,” says Norton.

“There are times when you do not hear turkeys on the roost and this is when you have to change tactics. I go to an area where turkeys frequent and slow way down. I move a few yards and stop to listen. I like to slip to near the top of a ridge where I can hear into the next hollow. I use the ridge to keep turkeys from seeing my approach. Now I am listening for sounds other than gobbles. “I listen for the distinct swish, swish, swish of turkeys scratching in leaves or for drumming. Turkeys are constantly making soft purrs, whines and yelps. This helps keep the flock together and these sounds cannot be heard from very far away. Many times if you hear these sounds and listen really closely you will hear drumming. When you hear any of these sounds set up right there. The turkeys are close!”

Cheat Norton also uses a Walker Game Ear to enhance his hearing ability. He cautions that there is a learning curve associated with mechanical hearing devices. “You have to learn to course with the Game Ear,” says Norton. “You also have to realize that sounds you hear using a mechanical device are always further away than they seem. I use the Game Ear to get in the general area of a turkey then rely on my own ears to close the deal but I know people who use them the entire hunt. It depends on you.”

My wife, Tes, suffers from hearing loss and uses mechanical hearing devices made by E.A.R., Inc. “I put them in before I leave in the morning and take them out when my hunt is over,” said Tes. “I cannot do without them. It was frustrating at first because all sounds are magnified. The sound of your steps, the birds, the wind, traffic, everything! I really had to work at getting used to them, but it was worth the effort.”

“Coursing and judging distance were also challenging, but in time it all came together. It really helped to go with someone who could hear well and compare what I thought I was hearing to what that person was hearing. After only a few outings I gained confidence in my ability to hear, course, and judge the distance to that sound. I never go hunting without them,” said Tes.

There are other ways to enhance the ability to hear more turkeys. Cup your hands behind your ears to gather more sound into your ears. You will be able to hear better in the direction you are facing but not as well in other directions. Turn your body to listen in all directions. Open your mouth while listening. This opens the ear canal and allows more sound into the ear. Slow your breathing. Take shallow breaths with your mouth open. This reduces the sound of air moving in and out of your lungs and eliminates some of the noise that competes with your ability to hear. Close your eyes. This helps you concentrate on hearing and eliminates visual distractions going on around you.

Avoid direct contact with the wind if at all possible. On windy days listen from the down-wind side of a ridge or hill. Face into the wind and allow the wind to bring sound to you. I am blessed with good hearing ability but I carry a single over-the-ear device made by Woodland Whisper that I use when I cannot hear turkeys with my own hearing. Often that device allows me to hear a gobbler that I could not hear naturally. Problem is, that turkey is usually too far away to get to. If that turkey is on the property I can hunt I will be there to listen next time.

Common Sense

Never listen near running water, traffic, or construction. Avoid any foreign noise that competes with your ability to hear turkeys. Move as far away from distracting noise as possible. Be aware of the time of day. Turkeys generally fly up to roost near sundown. Turkeys generally fly down from their roost as soon as they can see the ground. It is important to know if a turkey is on the ground or in a tree because a gobble from roost can be heard farther than a gobble on the ground.

Hearing a turkey gobble in the rain is challenging at best. If you’re confident of the path that turkeys take on your hunting property, set up a ground blind. A ground blind is an excellent way to hunt turkey in the rain. Your gear and calls can stay dry while you wait on a gobbler to respond. Turkeys, in general, are not as vocal as usual when it’s raining, so they need to be close to respond to your call. You will want to call more than normal as the rain makes it hard for hunters and gobblers to hear.

If you know where a gobbler roosts at night, set up nearby the following morning. In the west, using binoculars or spotting scopes can help you track a turkey’s movements in the evening. If you are in an area where timber prevents you from using optics to track turkey, you can use a locator call to find them. A locator call like an owl call used in the evening can get a gobble response from a roosted tom. Once you get an answer, plan your morning sit accordingly. Knowing where a gobbler is roosted will help you hear him the next morning.

Before you can expect a gobbler to respond, you have to be proficient with your turkey calls. If what you are producing is not realistic, you may not get a response. Worse, you may scare the turkey away. Work with all your calls until you are proficient with the clucks, yelps, putts and purring that a hen might make.

The Secret to Hearing is in the Listening

It is my firm belief that the key to turkey hunting success is the ability to “hear turkeys.” When you hear and identify a turkey sound you can judge where the turkey is, how far away he is and the direction he is moving. This information tells you where you need to go. Very few turkey hunts end with a turkey in your vest that did not start by first hearing turkeys. Learn how turkeys sound. Put yourself in the best position to hear and concentrate. Do this and you will hear more turkeys!

If you know anything about yellow perch fishing, you probably know that they aren’t exactly “trophy fish”. They’re small, unassuming little fish, but they’re some of the most popular gamefish in North America for good reason.

Yellow perch are found across the northern United States, fight hard for their size, and will bite just about anything. That, combined with the fact that they school up by the hundreds, means that catching a cooler full of them isn’t out of reach. They’re a great fish for beginners or seasoned anglers, and you can catch them with minimal gear and tackle.

And you should try, because they’re arguably the best freshwater fish for the dinner table. They have a mild, almost sweet flavor, and a firm, flaky texture. They’re great for grilling and frying alike, and next time you go out on a food-fish mission, yellow perch should be at the top of the list.

In this article, I’ll go over the basics of how to catch these tasty fish. I’ll include things like required gear, the best baits and lures, and tips and tactics for filling the cooler.

Yellow perch (species name Perca flavescens) are a common carnivorous freshwater fish. They inhabit lakes, streams, and ponds, and live on a fairly varied diet. This can include zooplankton, insects, crayfish, and even freshwater mussels.

These days, yellow perch are very widespread. In most of the places they can be found, however, they’ve been introduced; their native range only includes the midwest and the northeastern United States. They’ve been so successful because they can tolerate a huge variety of water conditions and are prolific spawners.

Perch fall into the “panfish” category; basically, just fish that are just small enough to fit in a frying pan. Along with other panfish such as crappie and bluegill, perch make amazing table fare and are some of the most common fish for fish frys.

There are many panfish species, but perch are very easy to identify. This is mostly because there’s almost nothing else that looks like them in the lakes where they live.

As is always the case when fishing, it’s important to know your target.

Yellow perch are yellowish-gold in color with six to nine dark vertical bars on their body (earning them the nickname “striped perch,” though that name also refers to a saltwater species). They also have two dorsal fins, and their foremost dorsal fin has very tall spines relative to its body.

Perch are small fish (6-12 inches long) and weigh less than a pound. In most states, the record catch is between 2 and 3 pounds, so they do get bigger, but not by much.

The only fish that perch look similar to are walleye and sauger (which are in the same family), but walleye and sauger are generally much longer and have a more mottled color pattern compared to the yellow perch’s distinctive black bars.

Perch are great beginner fish because you don’t need much to catch them. That said, here’s the basic tackle you’ll need to get going.

Just about any rod can be used for perch fishing. But you’ll have better luck if you choose one with these qualities:

• 6 foot to 7 1/2 foot spinning rod (longer is better for longer casts, but not necessary)
• Light-Ultralight action (2-8 pound rating)
• Graphite composition (not necessary, but graphite is much more sensitive than fiberglass)

There are tons of great rods that fall into this category. If you’re looking at getting a new one, you can’t go wrong with the Ugly Stik GX2 (buy on Amazon here). It’s a tough rod with plenty of sensitivity at a great price.

Any 1000 series or 2000 series spinning reel will work well for perch. You’ll be using very light line, so going much larger than a 2000 series can impede casting ability. If you plan on deep jigging (like over 100 feet deep), then a 3000 series reel would be a safer bet for more line capacity.

For a quality spinning reel at a great price, it’s hard to beat the Okuma Ceymar or Pfleuger President. Both are around 50 bucks on Amazon, and they’re super smooth and durable for the price.

4-6 pound test monofilament line is all you need for perch. They aren’t particularly line-shy, though, so if you happen to have heavier line already spooled up it should work just fine.

Perch can be caught with a variety of different rigs, so you don’t need everything at one time. That said, it is nice to have a variety of options on hand to switch up your presentation if the fish aren’t biting.

For hooks, a size 4-8 baitholder hook works well. Perch have big mouths for their size, and larger hooks are generally less likely to be swallowed, so I lean on the larger side.

Perch fishing with jigs can also be very productive. 1/32 oz, 1/16 oz, and 1/8 oz round jigheads can all work, but I usually use 1/16 oz. As for colors, perch aren’t picky. I regularly use pink or chartreuse, but unpainted jigheads often work just as well. It’s not a bad idea to have a few color options so you can change up for water conditions.

If using sinkers (such as with a bobber), split-shot is all you need. Just use a large enough weight to keep your bait down and you’ll be good to go. A good variety pack will have a few different sizes so you can adjust as necessary.

Getting a perch to bite is pretty easy. But the key to catching perch is finding them; if you aren’t right where the fish are, you aren’t going to catch any.

Perch can live in a huge variety of water conditions and inhabit lakes, ponds, and streams. That said, they are most commonly found in large, relatively clear lakes with sandy or gravel bottoms. They prefer cool water, too, with 60-70 degree summer temperatures being ideal.

Yellow perch are a schooling species, and usually school up with fish of similar size. When you find a school, the bite will often be red-hot. They can be caught year-round, but where you’ll find perch depends on the time of year, so it’s important to understand their seasonal behavior.

Because of their schooling behavior and relatively easy bite, perch are hugely popular among ice anglers. During the winter, they can be just about anywhere, but large fish and large schools of perch usually prefer deeper water.

Concentrate on areas with any kind of structure. That could be downed trees, rip-rap rocky bottoms, or even just a drop-off where water depth changes quickly (like at my best local spot). Perch feed just off the bottom, so that’s where your bait or lure should be as well. If you have ice electronics, that’s great; if not, keep moving until you find them (a powered gas or electric auger helps a lot here).

Springtime is spawning time for perch. Starting when the water hits about 45 degrees, they’ll move out of their deep wintertime haunts into shallow water. They love shallow marshes, sloughs, and bays, so if you have these in your area, try them first. If not, fish the shallowest areas you can find; perch regularly spawn in 3-5 feet of water.

When fishing the shallows, concentrate on structure. This can be downed trees, docks, or even rocky outcrops, but the best spring perch habitat is weed beds. Fish the top of short grass or the edges of taller weeds like bulrushes and cattails, and you’ll probably find perch.

Throughout spring and into summer, perch move into deeper water as the water temperature increases. You’ll continue to find them in fairly shallow water (5-10 feet deep) up until the water hits about 70 degrees, but beyond that, they can be anywhere.

Perch fishing in the summer is therefore much easier if you have a fish finder. You should be able to locate schools, and once you do it’s a matter of getting your bait in front of them. Keep your boat directly above the school (using a drift sock or anchor as necessary), and drop down to their depth and jig vertically.

Schools are constantly on the move, so any deeper part of the lake can hold fish on a given day. When it comes to perch, keep moving until you find them, then stay on them from there.

Perch fishing is great because you can often use whatever rig is the most fun for you. You can catch them on a huge variety of lures, including crankbaits (like Rapala’s), spinners and spoons, and jigheads with soft plastic lures. They’re all very simple to rig; just tie on whatever lure or bait you’re using and you’re good to go.

All that said, the most reliable way to catch perch is with live bait.

Perch will eat just about anything, but some of the best baits for perch include:

• worms/nightcrawlers
• maggots (for ice fishing especially)
• Perch eyeballs

You can also use artificial baits, like:

• Berkley Honeyworms
• Berkley Gulp Minnows

Any of these will work as perch bait. In areas where allowed (check your local fishing regulations first), many anglers swear by perch eyeballs. Once you start catching them, you should have an abundant supply, so it’s worth trying out to see if it works for you.

When fishing the tops of weed beds, a simple bobber rig works best. Tie a #4 baitholder hook and suspend below a bobber so your bait is just above the weed line. Use a split shot 6-12 inches from the hook, and use just enough weight to keep your bait down, because the more action the bait has in the water, the better. Then rig the hook with a worm or your preferred bait, and cast out so your bait is above the weeds. Try different spots and leader lengths as necessary.

You can also fish weed beds very effectively with a drop shot rig (more on that rig here). It’ll keep your lure just above the top of the weed beds, but you can give it as much jigging action as you want to.

If you’re fishing deep water, use jigheads to get to the bottom. Use whatever size jighead is necessary to ensure your rig stays directly below you, and tip it with a worm or other bait. Then slowly jig vertically until you catch fish.

Alternatively (if you don’t have a fish finder), you can cast your jigheads as far as you can and then slowly bounce them along the bottom back towards you. Doing this in a circle around the boat can help you find the fish faster.

When it comes perch fishing with lures, you can use just about anything. But what you choose does depend on where you’re fishing. Some of my favorite perch lures are:

• Rapala Shad Rap Crankbait
• Rooster Tail Spinner
• Miniature Spoons
• Rapala Jigging Rap
• Eagle Claw Marabou Jig

When fishing the shallows, small crankbaits or spinners work well. Cast and retrieve these over the tops of weed beds or along weed lines for the best fishing. You can also cast near docks or other large structure, but be careful not to get too close and snag up.

It’s important to note that perch are considered poor swimmers and accelerate very slowly compared to other fish. When retrieving your lures, keep this in mind and stick to slower speeds for the best results.

When fishing deep water, vertically jigging small soft plastics on jigheads, jigging spoons, or other jigging lures is the way to go. One lure loved by perch anglers is the Rapala Jigging Rap, which looks like a fish and moves erratically as it rises or falls. You pretty much can’t go wrong with this lure as long as you jig it vertically, but any jigging spoon or small soft plastic can work just as well.

All of the above will help you catch more perch, but keep these tips in mind for greater success and a freezer full of fish.

Perch will take anything, but using live bait always increases your chances of success. Even if you’re fishing a lure, tipping it with a maggot or a piece of worm helps immensely. That little bit of scent will make your whole presentation that much more enticing, and the perch won’t be able to resist it.

When jigging vertically, your goal is to be in the “perch zone”. The members of a school don’t all swim at exactly the same depth, though, so adding two or even three hooks further up your line means you’ll be in front of more fish at any given time.

Always make sure using multiple hooks is allowed in your area, but where allowed this tactic can be killer, and even result in catching two or more fish on a single drop.

Perch are notorious bait thieves. They don’t usually take and swallow like bass or trout; often they just nibble at the very tip. This leads to stolen baits, and a hook without bait just doesn’t catch fish.

Checking your baits often (and only using enough bait to cover the hook) ensures that you’re actively fishing as much as possible.

You can catch perch all day, but like many fish, they’re most active at dawn and dusk. Make sure that you’re on the water at these times for the hottest fishing and the best chance of success.

Overall, yellow perch are a fun and easy fish to catch. They’re great for kids because they fight hard for their size, and they’re amazing fried up for the dinner table. You just need to know where they like to be, put some bait in front of them, and you’re good to go. By using the tips in this article you should be well on your way to catching a mess of them, and hopefully having some fish tacos for dinner!

A detailed review and performance comparison of Sage Salt R8, Scott Sector, G.Loomis Asquith and NRX+ fly rods

Saltwater fly rod review model-by-model comparison

This much-anticipated and perhaps overdue head-to-head review was spurred by the introduction of the Sage Salt R8. We compare saltwater rods every day in conversations with customers, but with the Salt R8 introduction, we felt the time was right to put these four series under the microscope. Each represents the leading edge of unique rod design legacies and all will be among the very best available to global saltwater anglers for many years to come.

As of this writing, these are the rods that drive the debate. We recommend and sell plenty of Winston Air Salt and Sage Igniters, as well as the underrated Winston Alpha+, but all of those are fundamentally unique and less often compared directly with the Salt R8, Sector, Asquith and NRX+. Every Igniter is stiffer, or “faster,” than any rod in this review. Every Winston, whether an Air Salt or Alpha+, is less stiff, or “slower” than any of these rods. One and all fine fly rods, they represent the extremes of preference and purpose and are thus excluded from this comparison.

Our goal in this article is to differentiate similar models to help anglers choose the rod best aligned with their fishing preferences and casting style. We cast each rod group side-by-side with two fly lines to distinguish the nuances of casting range, feel, line speed, accuracy, power and presentation. Occasionally we landed on a universal favorite, a rod we all preferred regardless of line choice. More broadly, however, the range of our observations and preferences likely reflects the diversity of our customers. All of these rods will catch fish, but each has distinct character, so choose a rod that quickens your heartrate when you reach for it!

Alternative configurations: Scott Sector 8’4″ and 2-piece models are fantastic fly rods. If your rod will live on a boat, strongly consider one of the 8’10” 2-piece Sectors. The convenience of a 2-piece rod is undeniable for the local angler. Scott’s 8’4″ Sectors fly way under the radar, too, and while not described in this article, we implore anglers to consider one on merit of lightness, casting ease and accuracy. Unfairly categorized as “boat rods,” we find the 8’4″ Sectors to be lethal fishing tools and a pleasure to cast whether on foot or afloat. Some misconceive that a shorter rod is somehow weaker. They are actually stronger fish fighters because the lever between hand and fish is shorter.

At the end of the day, most anglers prefer a 9′ 4-piece saltwater fly rod. In our opinion, the Asquith, Salt R8, Sector and NRX+ are the most compelling choices. So, let’s get on with it. Which one will make your heart race?

This article was written by John Duncan with input on every rod model from Fly Shop Manager Parker Thompson and Richard Post, our Buyer and all-around fly fishing assassin.

Sage Salt R8

Introduced in January 2024, the Salt R8 brought Sage’s saltwater fly rods back to the everyday angler. They are a joy to fish: light, explosive, intuitive and accurate. Components are second to none. The grips are smallest in class, a gracefully contoured full Wells that lacks nothing for purchase or leverage but seems to fit the hand of every angler just a little better. The Salt R8 are legacy defining rods, taking us back to the day when Sage was the first and last word in saltwater fly rod design.

Defining characteristics: lightness, easy power, high line speed and great loops with popular saltwater lines

G.Loomis Asquith

Years after its introduction (2016), the Loomis Asquith continues to astound anglers who have never cast one. While no rod will be considered “perfect,” rod designer Steve Rajeff clearly achieved or surpassed his ideals with the basic action of these fly rods. Some consider the grips to be chunky and unrefined; others find the components underwhelming, but none argue that Asquith rod blanks stand alone in flex and recovery characteristics, using more of the rod with greater resilience to generate the highest line speed of any fly rod.

Defining characteristics: elite power, lively feel throughout the blank, line speed at all distances, ability to fish any fly line

Scott Sector

Apart from the G Series, there is no fly rod that exemplifies the Scott design ethos more than the Sector. It is obvious to those within the industry that Rod Designer Jim Bartschi moves slowly and purposefully. He is one of those guys who doesn’t speak often, but when he does, everyone listens. When introducing a new fly rod, his goal is for it to stand at the top for a decade, or possibly longer. The Sector, introduced in 2019, is a marvel of design and performance. Some say it has “ideal saltwater action.” An incredibly broad range of anglers love these rods. Countless Telluride Angler customers have purchased multiple rods in the series after fishing their first. As casters and rod reviewers, we notice that Sectors cast the most popular fly lines better than other rods, including flats classics such as the SA and Rio Bonefish tapers.

Defining characteristics: perfectly tuned to their line weights, progressive action, sensational range

G.Loomis NRX+

Descendant of the rods that made G.Loomis famous (GLX, NRX), NRX+ saltwater rods are trusted worldwide for their dependable performance, familiarity to the angler and indisputable power. Like lounging in a favorite armchair, many anglers get comfortable with an NRX+ and never want to leave. They are not the lightest rods in class, nor constructed with jewel box components, but the NRX+ are built to last and built to cast, as we rediscovered in several highly competitive line weights. (Intro 2019)

Defining characteristics: power and stability in challenging conditions, familiarity, durability

Model-by-Model Comparisons

Salt R8 690-4 v. Sector 906-4

A subtle difference in action delineates these fine fly rods. The Sector is a tad stiffer in the butt and mid-section, resulting in a more “classic saltwater action,” in the words of Richard Post. It has more “gas,” and possesses a higher gear. You can lean on this rod, haul it aggressively, fish it with a variety of lines including specialized trout streamer and bass lines, which tend to fold lesser fly rods. The Salt R8 feels a little more “finessey,” in Parker’s appraisal, more oriented toward small flies and probably a better crossover rod for trout, except in the heavy streamer category. Both rods handle a Rio Elite Bonefish and Rio Flats Pro, but the Sector with a Rio Bonefish throws the tightest loops for presenting size #6 and #8 flies on the flats. Both offer plenty of feedback, but the Sage Salt R8 has more “touch,” a possible benefit in the trout arena.

Asquith 790-4 v. Sector 907-4 v. Salt R8 790-4 v. NRX+ 790-4

Only the 12-weight category possesses rods more diverse in character. The Asquith 790-4 defines its series. Light and springy beyond compare, this superhero fly rod would be the preference of any angler, except the grip is the same as on the tarpon rods in the series. It’s thick. If you don’t mind a hefty grip, this rod is among the most spectacular saltwater fly rods you will ever fish. Otherwise, keep reading. The Sage Salt R8 has the lightest, most airy feel of the group. You can’t stomp on the butt section like the Asquith, NRX+ or Sector, so choose this rod for smaller flies and classic flats applications. This would be the ultimate Christmas Island or Belize bonefish rod, but lacks the bottom end of the others. The Sector 907-4 is the opposite. As Rich describes, “it wants you to cast off the butt.” The Sector 907-4 is ideal for someone with a relaxed casting stroke, or for fresh/salt crossover with large flies. It is probably the best bass bug rod under comparison, for example, while still a lovely rod for bones or redfish. If you fish a heavy-headed redfish line, the Sector 907-4 is your rod. The NRX+ falls into the “workmanlike” category, “old school,” according to Parker Thompson, “stiff from tip to butt.” “You have to stay on it,” according to Rich. We all agreed that the NRX+ 790-4 needs the head weight of a Flats Pro line to bring it to life, which is telling. It tolerates a strong double haul and outright needs one with an SA or Rio Bonefish taper. This rod is a popular choice among freshwater anglers who use super aggressive streamer lines for transporting articulated streamers, Zonkers, pike and bass flies.

Sector 908-4 v. Salt R8 890-4 v. Asquith 890-4 v. NRX+ 890-4

This contentious group of fly rods could start a barfight, probably has. It earned our recognition for “muddiest category,” a cohort of 8-weights that proudly demonstrates the state of the art. If you own an 8-weight and it’s not one of these, you’re missing something.

The Asquith offers the greatest possible line speed without bumping to the next line weight. It toes the line, however, because with a standard bonefish taper, the ASQ 890-4 requires a strong double haul for greatest distance and pretty loops. It responds to power better than any comparable rod, but also requires precision input from the caster. We cast it with a Rio Bonefish Taper and Rio Flats Pro, the latter of which brought it to life in the hands of every caster, including Duncan, who sometimes appears asleep at the wheel. By comparison, the Sector is more finely tuned to its line weight and purpose. The Asquith has more top end potential, but nothing casts a Rio Elite Bonefish as intuitively as the Sector 908-4. If Rio were to describe the way this line is intended to present a fly, the preferred rod would be the Sector. Ranginess and loop control are unequalled with the Sector, a remarkable fly rod that seems born for bonefish. The Sector doesn’t like the Rio Flats Pro, so it may not perform as well as the Asquith with a Rio Outbound or other shooting-style line, but for true-to-line-weight fly lines, it’s a truly refined rod.

So here comes the Salt R8 890-4, one of our favorite rods in that series. It feels stiffer than the Sector but less than the Asquith. Whereas the Sector and Asquith both flex progressively (evenly, based on the amount of line in the air), the Salt R8 has a distinct sweet spot high on the blank. It’s a prototypical “tip casting rod,” but unlike its genetic forerunners, it’s an easy rod to cast. With a Rio or SA Bonefish Taper, a moderate double haul produces explosive line speed and the tightest loops you can imagine. In the end, it casts and fishes much like the Sector, just 5% stiffer. It feels even lighter than the Sector, but the caster needs to be a little more “on it,” as Rich would say. The Sector is better short and extra-long, but the Salt R8 is magic in the fishy 40’-60’ zone.

We cast the NRX+ 890-4 last in this group and it made us go back to the beginning and re-cast the other three rods. This is the best rod in the NRX+ series. While not as light and playful as the others, it is perhaps the most stable and “automatic” of them all. I had mis-pegged this rod as one that required overlining, or overpowering in the cast. Not so. It’s stiff enough to be better with a Flats Pro than with a regular Rio or SA Bonefish taper (the Rio Flats Pro is extra-heavy in the head), but casts all of these with some of the nicest loops you’ll ever see come out of a fly rod and with the greatest stability and accuracy of any rod under comparison. It’s not light or sweet in the tip, but the casting capabilities of this rod are undeniable. It is the best “large fly” rod in the group, too, so pike/musky/striper anglers take note. This is the night train.

Sector 909-4 v. Asquith 990-4 v. Salt R8 990-4 v. NRX+ 990-4

Since 9-weights are the new 10-weights for permit, we cast the rods in this category with a Rio Elite Permit and Rio Flats Pro, both of which require a rod with torsional stability and plus power to deliver a wind-resistant fly. Since we didn’t compare these rods with a Rio or SA Bonefish line, we feel compelled to observe that the Scott Sector 909-4, paired with a Bonefish taper, is perhaps the single finest 9-weight saltwater fly rod we’ve ever cast, without variance in our opinions.

9-weights are such versatile rods, the preferred line weight for countless species and one that crosses over from bones and reds to permit, stripers, roosterfish, baby tarpon and golden dorado. The Sector 909-4 throws a Rio Elite Permit as well as any fly rod. It picks up a very long line for easy second shots, critical in permit fishing. True to the series, this progressive action rod lacks the raw butt section strength of the Asquith or Sage Igniter, so there could be better rods for casting heavy shooting heads over the surf from steep beaches, but for flats applications, it’s the rod to beat. The Loomis Asquith is the stiffest rod in class, fishing like a 9 ½ weight, but offers the greatest line speed with adequate input from the caster. It also handles the heaviest specialty lines, such as the Rio Outbound, better than any of the others. The Rio Elite Permit underlines the rods slightly, but a firm haul loads and delivers spectacular loops and line speed. Choose the Sector for a combination of bonefish and permit. Choose the Asquith for permit and striped bass, if you fish bass from the beach.

The Salt R8 is built for comfort rather than speed. Ideal for all day casting, we recommend this rod with heavy lines, including the Rio Flats Pro, for repetition casting. It’s an excellent boat striper rod, for example, and also an excellent jungle rod, where you might cast all day for a golden dorado or two.

The NRX+ 990-4 casts like a Cadillac in overdrive. It is the heaviest rod in hand, but impressive at distance and in complete control with any fly line. Loop shape is outstanding with a Rio Permit line, but it has plenty of bottom end for the Rio Flats Pro, Outbound Short or SA Titan Taper lines.

Asquith 1090-4 v. NRX+ 1090-4 v. Salt R8 1090-4 v. Sector 9010-4

Parker sums it up well by observing that both Loomis rods have a “big game feel,” fishing at the top of their line class, leaning into tarpon territory. They have very stiff butt sections that feel like they were designed independently from the rest of the rod for the exclusive purpose of fighting heavy fish. This creates a slight feel of disconnection between the hand and fly line, but the power of these two rods is undeniable.

We cast all four rods with a Rio Elite Permit line and a Flats Pro. The Asquith was the best rod with the Flats Pro, but we noticed that line speed and presentation were better on all rods with the Elite Permit taper. The Asquith is the best rod for 2nd shots as the lower rod’s stiffness rips line off the water with authority, but this rod loses its trademark “springy” feel beyond 70’ on the cast. It is outstanding for aggressive beach fishing for heavy striper and roosterfish applications, where the caster is inherently overpowering the rod and needs to hold the line extra high to clear the surf. The NRX+ has a stiff butt, soft mid-section and stiff tip. It feels “hinged,” always wanting to cast from the middle of the rod, automatic in the 40-60’ range but not as light or playful as the Sage or Scott. Both Loomis rods emphasize power over presentation.

The Scott and Sage are both better permit fishing rods, and better all-day casters for false albacore, striped bass, etc. The Sector is the easiest casting but least powerful rod in the group. Being a 10-weight, it has plenty of power for permit and will be an excellent choice for less experienced casters and those who simply don’t possess a powerful casting stroke. The Salt R8 requires more input from the caster, but generates higher line speed and handles both the Permit taper and Flats Pro line with authority, whereas the Flats Pro is too heavy on the Sector. The Salt R8 feels lightest of the group and casts tight loops in the greatest range. It’s a powerful, nimble rod that best embodies the 10-weight saltwater class.

Sector 9011-4 v. Asquith 1190-4 v. Salt R8 1190-4 v. NRX+ 1190-4

The Sector is outstanding with both the Rio Flats Pro and Rio Elite Tarpon line, loading just the right amount on each swing for shots at any distance. It has the greatest range of any rod in this group, from shortest to longest. Butt section power is spectacular without making the rod heavy or clunky. This is a marvel of progressive-fast rod design. The Asquith 11-wt fishes like an 11 ½-wt. It is probably the best fish-fighter in the group, the best 11-weight for Boca Grande and other places where 100lbs+ tarpon are common. It has the most butt section resilience for second shots, but the rod feels underlined when starting a cast fly-in-hand. For many anglers, it would take a few extra swings to generate line speed. This is a great rod for guys who hammer their cast. The NRX+ is actually springier than the Asquith, especially with the heavy-headed Rio Flats Pro. It is one of the most progressive rods in the NRX+ series, reminiscent of the 8-weight, casting well in a really wide range, but it’s also the heaviest rod in this group. The Salt R8 requires a long, strong stroke. It’s bouncy on short casts, but accuracy and line speed come when you dig into the butt section. You can’t tip-cast this rod, nor stab it into the wind, but it casts a variety of lines quite well at distance. Of all the rods in this series, the Salt R8 1190-4 will draw the most mixed reviews. Cast it before you buy it.

Sector 9012-4 v. Asquith 1290-4 v. Salt R8 1290-4 FG v. NRX+ 1290-4

The Sector 9012-4 is unique from the other 12-weights. In our hands, it’s underpowered for this line class, easy to load but hard to cast with power and command. The butt section is certainly stiff enough to fight large tarpon, but the angler should choose this rod only if seeking the slowest action tarpon rod available. Consider fishing it with an 11-weight line.

The Asquith, on the other hand, provides the most casting and fish fighting power while somehow also being the lightest rod in class. The only caveat is that the caster needs to throw with power and confidence. That’s the inherent nature of 12-weight fishing, of course, but the Asquith 1290-4 is a rod that asks for power and delivers power. It is, quite simply, a mind-blowing fly rod. The NRX+ isn’t far behind, surprisingly springy and intuitive with a heavy-headed line, like the Flats Pro. It’s notably heavier than the Asquith or Salt R8, but throws well at distance.

The Salt R8 1290-4 is a surprising favorite in this group. While not quite as powerful as the Loomis rods, it provides an excellent balance of castability and command. Light for a 12-weight, it has greater stability than the Sector #12 or the Salt R8 1190-4. We were surprised at how well it handled both the Rio Elite Tarpon and Rio Flats Pro, the latter of which felt heavy and clunky on many rods that we cast on this day. Range and feel are excellent and the rod has enough stiffness in the butt to pick up line for second shots, always critical in tarpon fishing.

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