Nightcrawlers are common earthworms that are found around the world. Rather than overspend for live nightcrawlers at a fishing supply store, you figured you’d try catching your own. Where can you find nightcrawlers to use as fishing bait?

To catch nightcrawlers, seek out a crop field or a garden with tilled soil. You can even check your own backyard. In daylight or nighttime, dig a few inches deep into the soil and it should be wriggling with live worms. That will especially be the case after it rains.

This guide to catching nightcrawlers will be chock full of information that any aspiring angler should keep handy. You’ll learn where to find nightcrawlers, how to get them out of the ground in large quantities, and how to keep them alive so you can use them as live bait later. Keep reading!

Finding Nightcrawlers – Where to Look

The Lumbricus terrestris or common earthworm-which is also known as the nightcrawler-may have originated in Western Europe, but today, the worms are anywhere and everywhere across the United States.

That’s why anglers find the prospect of catching their own nightcrawlers so appealing, as they don’t have to expend a lot of effort to track down the worms. Here are some places you can go nightcrawler hunting today.

Your Backyard

Why not start with the most convenient place you could possibly find nightcrawlers, right in your backyard?

Nightcrawlers live in loam soil, which contains 20 percent clay, 40 percent silt, and 40 percent sand. Most soil in the US is categorized as loam, but only you know what kind of soil you have around your property.

If your soil is drier and sandier than 40 percent, then you probably won’t be able to find worms in your yard. Also-although it goes without saying-if your home features asphalt or rocks rather than a dedicated yard, then you’ll also have to venture elsewhere for your nightcrawler hunting.

Just don’t start digging in your neighbor’s yard, as they’re not going to appreciate that!

Crop Fields

If you can’t find nightcrawlers right outback, you can always seek local crop fields. A crop field is a large agricultural area that usually features tilled soil.

Another feature of crop fields is dead debris such as old leaves that nightcrawlers can conveniently feast on from the safety of the tilled soil.

However, if you don’t know who the crop field landowner is, you won’t want to hunt for nightcrawlers. You could get in possible legal trouble for entering someone else’s property and technically defacing it. Ask for permission first or find yet another place to dig for nightcrawlers.

Gardens

Gardens are packed full of soil, and if that soil is loamy, then you already know nightcrawlers will be there.

As you work in your garden, you’ll want to dig strategically to avoid upsetting plants, flowers, and trees that are still growing. Try to replace the soil after making holes so your plants don’t tip over due to stability issues.

Parks

You can always find plenty of greenery at your local park. You know what we’re about to say, you can’t dig at a park without permission from the landowner or a parks and rec association at the very least.

That said, you can look under fallen trees or beneath rocks for nightcrawlers since you’re not damaging the soil. You don’t need permission for that.

Almost Anywhere After the Rain

If all the above methods sound like too much time and trouble, you don’t necessarily have to do any of it. You can always check the forecast for the next rainfall. Nightcrawlers come out in droves after the rain, especially if it rains during the evening.

You won’t have to look hard for them, as they’ll be nearly anywhere and everywhere. Check the sidewalks, the surface of the lawn or soil, and rocks and trees. You’ll see plenty of worms.

Fun fact: if you live in an area where rains are rarer, you can always trick the nightcrawlers into thinking it’s raining if you wait until dusk and water your lawn.

We recommend bringing some sawdust when you’re catching worms after the rain. The already-slippery insects will become even harder to grasp thanks to the moisture of the precipitation. Using sawdust gives you a better grip on the nightcrawlers.

Plus, the rumor is that that the worms don’t like the texture of the sawdust so they’re more eager to pop out of their holes.

How to Get Nightcrawlers Out of the Ground

Once you’ve seen at least one nightcrawler wriggling about, you can assume that more are in the area. Here are some of the avenues you can use to begin catching nightcrawlers by the dozen.

A Shovel and Bucket

The most old-fashioned method is using a gardening shovel and a bucket. The shovel is for digging into the loamy soil.

As we established earlier, you shouldn’t have to make inches-deep holes to find nightcrawlers.

By removing the top layer of the soil, you should see the worms wriggling. Pull them from the ground (more on this in a later section, so definitely check it out!) and then store them in a plastic bucket.

If you don’t have a bucket, then any similar container should work. The key is to choose a container with tall sides so the worms can’t easily crawl up and over. The container should also ideally have a carrying handle for easy transport.

In the bucket, add a bit of soil and worm food such as dead leaves. This will keep your nightcrawler alive until you get home.

Water

We already talked about this, but water is a very reliable way to get nightcrawlers to reveal themselves, especially if you’re struggling to find any worms.

Why do nightcrawlers like water so much? As worms, nightcrawlers usually stay under the soil where it’s dark and moist because there’s little risk of them drying out. They won’t poke their heads out in bright, sunny weather for that very reason.

When it rains, the worms can finally emerge from underneath the soil while staying nice and moist. The rain also accelerates a nightcrawler’s speed so it can cross greater distances.

As we mentioned earlier, watering your lawn at dusk means that by nightfall, the earthworms should be plentiful.

Worm Grunting

You can also try worm grunting, which is known as worm charming and worm fiddling. This activity is common among anglers who want to catch many nightcrawlers at once. It’s even a competitive activity!

First, you have to create vibrations in the soil. This will bring the worms nearer the surface. Then it’s a matter of catching the nightcrawlers.

Car Battery

If you don’t mind that your nightcrawlers are dead, then you can always electrocute them to the surface using a car battery.

This method is a little harsher than the ones we’ve discussed to this point, and if you do it, you should ensure that the landscape is clear of other living creatures (that you can perceive, anyway), especially those on or in the soil.

You’ll need jumper cables, metal rods, and your car battery. Please wear rubber-soled shoes to ensure your safety as you go about catching nightcrawlers like this.

Take two of the metal rods and insert them several feet into the ground, no deeper than three feet. Then attach your jumper cables to your car battery with the rubber grippers. Connect the other end of the jumper cable grippers to the affixed metal rods.

As electricity generates, the nightcrawlers will immediately spring to the surface to get away from the volts. You can catch them easily from there.

More Tips for Catching Nightcrawlers

Want even more tips to make you a nightcrawler-catching master? No problem! Here’s what we recommend.

Bring a Flashlight for Nighttime Catches

Nighttime is prime time for catching nightcrawlers. After all, these common earthworms are known as nightcrawlers for a reason. At night, when it’s usually cool, the worms will emerge to the surface of the soil. Nighttime is also a period when fewer predators abound.

You’ll need a flashlight to spot nightcrawlers on the ground. You can have a friend or partner carry the flashlight or you can bring it yourself. You can even use your smartphone flashlight, although not if you’re planning to hunt for a while. That’s a great way to drain your phone’s battery!

Headlamps Are Your Friend

Outside of flashlights, it’s a good idea to bring a headlamp as well. After all, once you find the nightcrawlers, how are you supposed to dig them up? You can’t hold the flashlight in one hand and dig with the other hand. It just doesn’t work.

Use Red Light

Nightcrawlers are adept at sensing the light. As soon as you shine a bright spotlight on a nightcrawler-such as from a flashlight or a smartphone-the worm will retreat underground.

To a nightcrawler, light = sunlight, and sunlight = danger, either from predators, drying out, or both.

Nightcrawlers are smart too, in that the one that senses the light isn’t the only worm to hide. Any other worms in the vicinity that might have been poking their heads up will also duck back down. You lose out on a lot of potential catches.

Using red light is the best way to mask the brightness of your light while still illuminating the yard. You can either buy a flashlight or headlamp with a red light or you can tape a piece of red cellophane over the light. You can even put cellophane on a smartphone flashlight.

Tread Lightly

Besides being able to sense light, nightcrawlers can detect vibrations caused by sound as well. If you usually have a heavy gait, it’s worth practicing quieter walking if you hope to be successful in your nightcrawler hunts.

We’re not saying you have to tip-toe here, but you do want to be as light on your feet as possible. If you’re not, the worms will sense you before you ever get close and you won’t see any.

The only exception to this is when it’s raining. It could be that the worms sense the vibrations of the rain falling to such an extent that your footfalls don’t stand out among that sound, but worms don’t react to heavy footsteps as much in the rain.

Wear Light Shoes

Even if you’re stealthy like a ninja, it’s still not a bad idea to wear light shoes when you’re digging for nightcrawlers. Ditch the combat boots, Timberlands, and heavy shoes like them. Wear house slippers (that you don’t mind getting muddy) or shoes with very light soles.

Skip the flip-flops though, as the flopping sound is not going to help you catch nightcrawlers.

Know When and How to Grab

As we said we would, we want to discuss is how to pull nightcrawlers out of the ground. To do so, you’ll have to get good at distinguishing the worm’s head from its rear. The head is what usually emerges first from the soil, which is a helpful hint.

The center of a nightcrawler’s body features a series of rings that allow the worm to have traction in the dirt. Then the other side of the worm is its tail.

When you see the nightcrawler emerge from its hole, grasp your hand around it and begin to pull up horizontally. Vertical pulling could cause you to tear the worm, and then it won’t be very good as fishing bait.

The body will be in the soil at an angle, so pull the nightcrawler at whatever angle it’s situated itself.

Remember to take your time when pulling and don’t use excessive force. Otherwise, you’ll kill the nightcrawler!

How to Keep Nightcrawlers Alive to Use as Live Fishing Bait

We’re assuming that you’re interested in keeping your nightcrawlers alive so you can eventually use them as fishing bait, right? Here’s how it’s done.

Move Your Nightcrawlers to a New Container

The container that will be the nightcrawler’s more permanent home should be full of loamy soil as well as worm food.

Dead debris like vegetables and grass as well as old coffee grounds (that are still moist) are recommended. The coffee grounds are easily ingestible for worms, so don’t be surprised if this is what they start with!

Refrigerate the Worms

Yes, that’s right, we’re telling you to put the nightcrawlers in the refrigerator. We know this sounds weird, but it’s part of maintaining the worms’ optimal temperature, which is between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

Keep the Soil Moist

Time will cause the soil to dry out, so every couple of days, you might have to add more water. You should only spill in a few drops at a time.

Add More Food

The nightcrawlers will eventually eat everything you give them, even if that takes a bit. While you’re checking the soil moisture levels, consider adding more food like coffee grounds or old leaves as well.

However, if there’s still food in the container, don’t feed the nightcrawlers yet. You could accidentally feed them too much, and then they’ll die.

If you continue doing the above, you could keep your nightcrawlers alive for weeks. Plan that fishing trip soon!

Final Thoughts

Nightcrawlers are a species of common earthworm that are prevalent throughout the country. You need only look in your backyard for nightcrawlers, although they’re common in crop fields, parks, and gardens as well.

Rainfall remains your most natural way of bringing out the greatest number of nightcrawlers, but you could always shock them out of the ground using a car battery and some metal poles if you don’t mind that your worms are dead.

Now that you know how to find, catch, handle, and keep nightcrawlers, you should never have to shop for live worm bait again!

When my husband first started hunting large game over a decade ago, I wanted nothing to do with the gut pile. Now? I’m rummaging through it trying to find all the good, often overlooked cuts of meat, and put as much of that animal to use as possible. This includes the almighty venison liver.

When it comes to nutrient-dense organ meats, the liver is the next logical step after trying venison heart. While the heart is very mild in flavor and most reminiscent of a really good steak, the liver takes a bit of a stronger palate and a more acquired taste. But, there are plenty of ways to make the often pungent flavor of the liver much more mild and worth the effort.

Historically, hunters would sautee the heart and liver at deer camp, eating the nutrient-dense organ meats before they ever left for home. But, today, that doesn’t happen as much. The liver, however, is arguably one of the most nutritionally dense foods on the planet, full of essential nutrients like Vitamin A, Vitamin B, copper, folate, and iron. But because of its often pungent flavor, it’s often overlooked.

Preparing Venison Liver

The liver is full of blood vessels, which gives it a pretty pungent flavor. This is especially true for large animals, but if you’ve had calves liver, or pig liver and enjoyed it, you’ll probably like deer liver.

The flavor profile for liver is pretty iron-like and a bit bitter, this is especially true of older bucks, while the flavor of younger bucks (less than 2 years) and does flavor is a bit milder from the start.

While the flavor in and of itself can be enough to turn some folks off from it if it’s prepared correctly you can turn any liver hater into someone who enjoys this nutrient-dense food.

So, how do you prepare it properly? To begin, you’ll want to simply remove the liver from your deer. While most animals have a bile duct you need to worry about and remove, deer actually don’t possess a gallbladder, so all you need to do is remove it. Once removed, you’ll want to thoroughly rinse it with cool water.

Next, you’ll want to slice or cube your liver. Not only will this increase the surface area for soaking out some of that pungent flavor, but it will also enable you to remove any gristly bits and veins from the liver tissues.

Then, you’re on to soaking. I recommend soaking your liver for 12-48 hours, changing the liquid at least once. For the mildest flavor, I recommend soaking the liver in milk, but you can also use saltwater. Saltwater doesn’t seem to pull out as much flavor as milk, though.

Of course, you can just eat fresh liver without soaking it, soaking it isn’t a safety concern, but a taste concern. We usually harvest, rinse, and soak it and eat it the next day, but it’s really a personal choice.

The longer you soak it, up to two full days from harvest, the more mild the flavor. What you use and for how long you soak is up to you, but if you’re trying deer liver for the first time, I suggest soaking it for at least 12 hours in milk or buttermilk before cooking it.

After soaking, you’ll simply remove the liver and rinse it off. I pour mine in a colander and rinse it under cool water until the milk is off and pat dry.

Cooking Venison Liver & Onions

After you’ve soaked and rinsed the liver, it’s just a matter of frying a little bacon, slicing up some onion, dredging the liver in seasoned flour, and frying it in butter in a cast-iron skillet.

Begin by dicing up bacon and frying it in a couple of tablespoons of butter. Once crispy, remove the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels to dry, leaving the grease in the skillet.

Meanwhile, combine flour, seasoning salt, black pepper, garlic powder, and paprika to make your dredge.

Dredge the liver pieces in seasoned flour, coating each side well. Continue until all of the pieces are well coated.

Slice onion into thick rings and brown them in the hot skillet of bacon grease over low heat.

Once the onions are nice and browned, move them to the side of the skillet away from the heat. Melt more butter and add your liver to the skillet, being sure not to crowd the skillet.

Brown the liver slices to a golden brown, over medium-high heat, for about four to five minutes for each side and remove to a plate lined with paper towels, until you’ve finished the entire batch, adding more butter as necessary.

The trick to flavorful, tender liver is to allow each side to brown, flipping the liver as little as possible, while not overcooking it (which results in tough liver).

Add all of the liver, onions, and bacon back to the skillet and toss together until mixed thoroughly.

Tips for Cooking Deer Liver

• Soak the liver for a minimum of 12 hours to remove the bitter flavors. Whole milk works well, or you can try salt water or a buttermilk soak.
• Keep the onion slices large, you want them similar in size to a bite of liver.
• Don’t overcook your liver. To keep it tender, you’ll want to cook it until there’s still a tiny hint of pink in the center.
• Pull the liver out of the refrigerator, drain, rinse and leave out while you prepare the rest of the ingredients so it’s warmer when you cook it.
• Cooking this dish in a cast iron skillet will yield the best results, but if you don’t have one any large skillet will work equally well.

If you’re looking for ideas on how to reconnect with your food, nature, and the heritage way of life, you’ve come to the right place.

Join over 40,000 like-minded folks in my Facebook group, The Self Sufficient Life. You can join by clicking here.

Other Venison Recipes to Try:

• Sous Vide Venison Roast
• How to Make Smoked Venison Jerky
• Easy Canned Venison Recipe

Now that whitetail season is over, a lot of hunters will be heading out to chase coyotes so they can pass time until spring. Just like with deer hunting, there will be some guys who get really hardcore, but the majority of the folks in the field will be your average Joe schmo. There is nothing wrong with that, but it does mean your success will depend on how you hunt.

Covering lots of ground this time of year will be your best strategy in the woods.

Often times you will see an electronic call on top of a pickup with guys standing around the truck. While this may sometimes work for them, a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while, and if your goals are higher than a couple chances every year, you will need to put some miles on the boots. My favorite setups are crick/river bottoms. Coyotes love traversing across frozen bodies of water as they can see distances and travel is relatively easy.

In this setup, we are blowing our call across the open water and anticipating a coyote to circle in between us and the water’s edge.

When you first set up, try doing some sort of a lip squeak or mouse squeak. If you’re walking quietly, you could surprise yourself on how close you can set up. If nothing comes in, use a variation of a coyote locator howl, and then transition to a prey distress call. Probably the most common distress call is a cottontail in distress. This call can be a great sequence to pull in curious song dogs, but it may also not work on some high-pressure areas. My favorite distress call to use is a woodpecker in distress. You can learn how to do this call on a softer open reed with a little practice, and it is also found on most electronic calls.

At this point, if you haven’t enticed anything in, switch it up and go with a fox or raccoon fight followed by a coyote distress call (usually some sort of pup distress). The goal here is to paint the picture that a young coyote came in to the dinner bell, and now is getting his butt kicked by an angry fox or raccoon.

Learning to call with an open reed will give you more variation and life-like calling sequences.

After your last call, wait for 10-15 minutes and keep your eyes peeled. Just like turkeys, some coyotes will come screaming in to the call, and some will sneak in without a noise. Those aggressive screamers would have likely already come in, but the ones who are going to tip toe in will pop up now. If you’re not on your toes, these wary responders may bust you quickly, or get too close for you to move before you have a chance to get your weapon on them.

Now, there’s a couple of very important things to keep in mind before you start your vehicle and grab your gun.

1. Wind is everything. Coyotes will almost ALWAYS circle downwind of where they hear the calling from. You can use that to your advantage and setup where you can predict them to circle. Fence lines, drop-offs, water dams, frozen bodies of water, etc, are all good travel routes, and you can also use factors like open bodies of water to pinch down the distance a coyote can circle away from you. The goal here is to get coyotes to circle as close as possible to you, and then take your shot before they get down wind.
2. Blend in. Coyotes can see very well. If there’s snow on the ground, you will stick out like a sore thumb in an open area with regular camo on. Snow camo bibs and a coat are a good idea, but if you’re on a budget, a couple of white bedsheets can definitely do the trick with some redneck ingenuity.
3. Stay mobile. Try to stay around the half hour mark with each setup. Wait a few minutes between each different call in your setup, and make sure you give coyotes enough time to come in, but don’t make the mistake of staying in one spot too long. Covering a lot of ground will be the most crucial factor to your success.
4. HAVE FUN. It will be cold and windy, and you will probably be walking a lot, but we are supposed to have fun and enjoy being outdoors. Hunting shouldn’t be a grind. If it gets to that point, you will burn out quickly, and your success will plummet.

Can’t get enough coyote hunting content? Checkout our podcast Calling all Coyotes. Looking for some tips on improving your rifle accuracy? Checkout our blog series on Why You Missed that Deer.

Photos by Ted Zangerle

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Humans are curious being, often intrigued to know about obscure things, including food that doesn’t fall under the conventional realm.

In this case, slugs may not be mainly known as a kitchen delicacy but have stirred interest among a specific section of the people.

However, is this shell-less mollusk edible or safe to eat? Unless you’re into unconventional foods, these questions are probably in your mind.

In this post, we’ll reveal what slugs taste like. Not only that, we’ll answer crucial aspects related to it.

Let’s get into it without further ado.

What are Slugs?

The term ‘slug’ refers to all forms of gastropod mollusks without a shell.

It’s also commonly known as a land slug.

Various kinds of this species are found across the globe, varying in shapes and sizes, but the external anatomy remains the same.

Like snails, it has tentacles on its head, giving sensory and optical senses.

Instead of a shell, it has a mantle covering the top of the head.

Although these species are categorized under the same class-Gastropoda, significant differences start from behavior to anatomy.

Water comprises half of the slugs’ bodies. These mollusks are found primarily on moist ground after heavy rain.

You’ll find them in the damp area under rocks, tree bark, and fallen logs during the dry season.

They have soft tissues which make them highly prone to desiccation due to the absence of an outer shell.

Hence, mucus generation is vital for this mollusk in order to survive.

What Do Slugs Taste Like?

Most people might be familiar with snails as part of kitchen delicacy compared to this shell-less mollusk.

However, some people consume slugs.

It may not be the aesthetically pleasing creature, and to have it may not be everyone’s cup of tea.

That said, unconventional food like this tends to have divided opinions.

Some people like it, while others may not. It also mainly depends on how you prepare it.

The texture is rubbery, and its outer body is quite slimy.

The taste of a slug would be best described as mild, closely similar to snails.

It also largely depends on the ingredients and the preparation process involved.

Because of the presence of mucus, it has a hint of bitterness.

In this case, proper cleaning is required before you proceed with the cooking.

Not many are enthusiastic about eating slugs, which is understandable.

However, some people relish this mollusk. Regardless, it has high nutritional value.

It’s a good source of protein and minerals and also has a high caloric value.

Cleaning these critters is crucial if you plan to have them.

Since they’re scavengers, they may carry parasites that might cause a potential health risk.

Once cleaned, you may prepare it any way you want, from stir-frying to backwoods boil.

We suggest using richly-flavored ingredients since it has a mild taste.

Want to know how to prepare these critters? Keep reading below.

How to Prepare and Eat Slugs?

Since slugs are scavengers, thorough cleaning is to prevent potentially life-threatening diseases.

They’re considered safe but come with a caveat.

If you plan on having these critters, putting them in a container filled with damp cornmeal for a day or two is highly advisable.

Or, put it in wet lettuce, and let them purge.

Once done with toxic cleansing elements, proceed with your culinary adventure.

Some of the ways to have these shell-less mollusks are as follows:

• Stir-fry slug.

Stir-frying these critters is one of the best ways to relish their taste.

First, you need to blanch slugs in boiling water and then slice them.

Take a wok or skillet to stir-fry along with vegetables.

Add soy sauce to enhance the taste further.

• Slug pasta.

Give your pasta a new taste by adding these critters.

Stir-fry them in butter first, and then add the pasta sauce.

Let it cook under low-medium heat for ten minutes.

Fold cooked pasta in the mix and then serve it.

• Deep-fried slugs.

Another great way to enjoy these mollusks is by deep-frying them.

Preparing this way will be an excellent introduction to slugs if it’s your first time.

First, you need to boil them in hot water for two minutes.

After this, immerse them in egg and then rub them in bread crumbs.

Deep fry them like how you do with fried chicken. Fry until it’s golden brown.

Conclusion

Slugs may not be the most pleasant-looking creature, but they are essential to our ecosystem.

Consumption of these critters is a personal choice but comes with a caveat.

Although it’s considered safe to eat, it’s prone to carry parasites that may pose a potential health risk.

If you plan to have it, ensure it’s adequately cleaned and thoroughly cooked.

Avoid raw slugs since they’re scavengers and are likely to have toxic elements.

About The Author

Guide L-301 Revised by Louis C. Bender and Chris Allison College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences, New Mexico State University

Authors: Respectively, Senior Research Scientist (Wildlife) and Retired Extension Range Management Specialist, Department of Extension Animal Sciences and Natural Resources, New Mexico State University. (Print friendly PDF)

Introduction

Mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus, Figure 1) are one of the most important game animals in New Mexico and the West. The size of the mule deer population in New Mexico is unknown, and densities of mule deer can vary greatly among areas and over time. For example, densities of mule deer ranged from an estimated <1.2 deer/mi2 on private land in Colfax County to <1.9 deer/mi2 on New Mexico State University’s Corona Range and Livestock Research Center (CRLRC), while a recent minimum count found 3.7 deer/mi2 in higher-density areas of the San Andres Mountains (Bender et al., 2011, 2012; L. Bender, unpublished data). On CRLRC, mule deer densities declined from 1.9 deer/mi2 in 2005 to 0.7 deer/mi2 in 2008, highlighting the variation possible in deer populations in response to drought and other factors. In general, mule deer have been declining in numbers in New Mexico since populations peaked around the 1960s, similar to declines seen throughout the West (Heffelfinger and Messmer, 2003). Because of population declines, harvests of mule deer have also declined; deer harvests (mostly mule deer), estimated to be as high as 55,000 in 1960, declined to <10,000 in 2013. Despite declines, mule deer are still present in all 33 counties in New Mexico.

Figure 1. Mule deer are New Mexico’s most important big game species. (Photo by Terry Spivey, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org.)

Range and Habitat

There are two subspecies of mule deer in New Mexico, the Rocky Mountain mule deer (O. hemionus hemionus) and the desert mule deer (O. hemionus eremicus). Rocky Mountain mule deer are found in the northern two-thirds of the state and desert mule deer in the southern third. The Rocky Mountain mule deer is larger; the average field-dressed weight of mature (6 years or older) males (bucks) is around 195 lb, with larger deer weighing more than 250 lb. Mature desert mule deer average about 140 lb field-dressed, with the largest deer approaching 170 lb.

Mule deer are extremely varied in their habitats. Rocky Mountain mule deer are found from above the timberline to low-elevation short grasslands, and frequently in urban areas. During winter, deer that use higher elevations usually migrate to lower elevations where food is more easily obtainable and deep snow does not limit their movements.

Desert mule deer prefer shrublands and woodlands in desert mountain ranges and hills, or arroyos in arid desert flats. They normally spend summer and winter in the same general area.

Physical Description

Mule deer have extremely large ears, hence the name. Adults have a reddish coat in summer and a gray coat in winter. The summer coat is fine and silky in texture and the winter coat is coarser and thicker. Desert mule deer are usually lighter or paler than Rocky Mountain mule deer. The reddish-brown fawns are spotted and depend on their protective coloration for safety. They lose their spots two to three months after they are born. A characteristic feature of the mule deer is the large white rump patch that surrounds the base of the tail. The tail itself is white with a small black tip. Unlike the white-tailed deer, the mule deer does not raise its tail in alarm, but holds it against the body as it flees. Mule deer may also stot, or bounce stiff-leggedly on all four legs, when fleeing.

Mule deer bucks have antlers that are forked (Figure 2) instead of being like a white-tailed deer’s, whose points rise from the main beam (Figure 3). The antlers are shed following the breeding season each winter, and new antlers begin growing shortly after the old ones are dropped. The dropping of antlers occurs when the length of daylight decreases, triggering glandular reactions that control the production of testosterone, insulin-like growth factor-1, and other hormones. The same process is involved in the growth of the new antlers, which are covered by a skin called velvet that contains an extensive network of blood vessels. These supply the protein and minerals needed for the growth of antlers, which are the fastest-growing tissues in the animal kingdom. In late August or September, the velvet dries up and is rubbed off on small trees and shrubs as the antlers harden or mineralize. Antler size and number of points depend mostly on the deer’s age, physical condition, and their genetic background (Bender, 2011).

Figure 2. Antlers from a mule deer.

Figure 3. Antlers from a white-tailed deer.

Life Cycle

The breeding season or rut for mule deer in New Mexico begins in late November (northern areas of the state) and lasts until mid-January (southern areas). During breeding periods, mature bucks cover a large area in search of receptive females (does). The does are receptive for about three days. If they are not bred during this time, their cycles will continue, and 28 days later they will again be receptive. Unbred mature does are rare in New Mexico.

There is little actual fighting between bucks because dominance hierarchy has usually been established before peak rutting periods occur. The smaller or less-aggressive bucks recognize their superiors and usually give in to their dominance. The breeding class is usually the prime-aged mature bucks, plus a few younger bucks who are exceptionally large-bodied or aggressive. One buck will breed with many does, so it is not necessary to have equal numbers of males and females. No permanent bond is formed between bucks and does. When the female is no longer receptive, the buck will leave her to seek other does.

Mule deer have a gestation period of about seven months. Fawns are usually born in June and July, later in southern New Mexico and later if does are in poor condition. Normally, a doe has one fawn the first time she gives birth. After this, she may have multiple fawns if she is in good condition. After about age seven the number of fawns will decrease again.

Fawns get up on their feet only hours after birth, but they are rather unsteady and very susceptible to predation. During their first few days, they remain hidden and alone except when feeding (Figure 4). At about three weeks of age, the fawns begin sampling solid foods, and shortly thereafter they begin to accompany the doe almost constantly. Most fawns are weaned by October or November, after which they are dependent on their competitive ability to obtain adequate nutrition. Fawns that are larger at birth, or born earlier, tend to be larger at weaning and therefore are more likely to survive.

Figure 4. Fawns depend upon hiding and lying still for survival during their first few weeks. (Photo by Mara Weisenberger.)

Survival

Typically >80% of unhunted mule deer adults in New Mexico survive each year, although this can drop to <60% during severe droughts (Bender et al., 2007, 2010, 2011). Likewise, survival of fawns can range from >50% to none surviving, and the latter occurs during droughts when condition of adult females is very poor (Lomas and Bender, 2007). Malnutrition is the most common cause of death (excluding hunting) in studied mule deer populations in New Mexico.

Malnutrition is the most common disease of mule deer (Bender et al., 2007, 2010, 2011), and when other diseases and parasitism cause mortality, the actual underlying cause is usually poor-quality food that causes malnourishment. Probably the most publicized diseases of mule deer are the epizootic hemorrhagic disease-bluetongue complex (collectively called hemorrhagic disease [HD]) and chronic wasting disease (CWD). HD is a viral disease that affects deer, pronghorn, and bighorn sheep; it is spread by biting gnats or midges (Culicoides spp.). Although HD can be enzootic (always present in low frequency), in mule deer it is most commonly seen in infrequent epizootics (outbreaks), which can result in a large number of deaths when deer and vector conditions are conducive to outbreaks. Outbreaks occur during late summer or early autumn, usually in close proximity to wet areas. During outbreaks, some deer die quickly with no apparent signs of disease, others may die within a week, some recover but are debilitated, and still other deer show no sign of disease during outbreaks, and survivors may develop immunity to that particular virus serotype (but not necessarily other HD virus serotypes). White-tailed deer are more vulnerable to HD (especially epizootic hemorrhagic disease) than mule deer, and thus high mortality from HD is more common in white-tailed deer and pronghorn than mule deer.

Chronic wasting disease (CWD) is an invariably fatal degenerative neurological disease of deer, elk, and moose. CWD, a transmissible spongiform encephalopathy, is very rare in New Mexico and is limited to portions of the San Andres, Organ, and Sacramento Mountains. Uncertainty still lingers over exactly how CWD is spread and even the causative agent, which is likely an abnormal protein called a prion. Much of the concern about CWD involves its similarity to bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), or mad cow disease; consuming products from BSE-infected cattle has been linked to fatal new variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease in humans. However, the World Health Organization has concluded that there is no evidence that CWD can be transmitted to humans. Despite this, hunters should avoid eating venison from infected animals (or other obviously sick animals) and should use simple precautions, such as wearing latex gloves when handling deer or elk from areas known to have CWD. Many states also restrict movement of venison or other parts of deer, elk, and moose from areas or states where CWD is present; be sure to check with local Game Departments for regulations on transporting venison. The Chronic Wasting Disease Alliance website (www.cwd-info.org) is an excellent source for up-to-date information regarding CWD and its management.

Predators kill deer in New Mexico each year. The chief animals that prey upon deer are mountain lions, black bears, Mexican wolves, coyotes, bobcats, and feral dogs. Interactions between predators and mule deer are complex and highly variable across distance and time; the key to understanding predation is differentiating between the act of predation and the effect of predation. Although predators kill deer, predation may have little effect on the population if predation substitutes for (e.g., is compensatory to) other forms of mortality because deer are in poor condition or otherwise predisposed. When predation is additive to other mortality factors, then predation can limit deer populations. Whether predation is mostly additive or mostly compensatory varies with the specific local conditions of the predator and prey communities, and their surroundings.

Mule deer can live about 10-15 years. The average lifespan of bucks is shorter than does, especially in areas of heavy hunting pressure. Because of this, most populations contain only 25-50 bucks for every 100 does.

Food Habits

Mule deer feeding is mainly crepuscular, meaning that they feed mostly early in the morning and again just before dark. They prefer higher-quality foods like forbs (commonly called weeds) and browse (leaves, buds, and new shoots of shrubs and trees), but they also utilize grasses when young and actively growing as well as succulents. Seasonally, mule deer diets are >60% browse in spring, >50% browse in summer and autumn, and >80% browse in winter (Heffelfinger, 2006). Most of the remainder of the diet is forbs, and grasses and succulents (e.g., cacti) usually contribute much less than 10% seasonally.

The actual diet of deer is very diverse and reflects what is available. Common foods in northern New Mexico include aspen, chokecherry, oaks, bearberry, bitterbrush, mountain mahogany, and most other shrubs in the rose family (Rosaceae). Winter diets may be supplemented with firs, pines, and other evergreens, though in limited quantities because many of these conifers contain secondary plant compounds that are toxic to deer, inhibiting function of their digestive systems. In southern New Mexico, common foods include mountain mahogany, oaks, skunkbush, yucca, ceanothus, mesquite pods, globemallow, vervain, and silktassel. Piñon and juniper may be used during dry seasons and winter months despite plant toxins, the effects of which can be minimized by mixing these with other plant species. In all areas, a wide variety of other forbs are important depending upon what exactly is available.

Mule deer are classed as concentrate selectors, meaning they eat lesser amounts of very high-quality foods; hence, they select for foods with high concentrations of readily digestible nutrients such as simple sugars. These are, as noted previously, mainly browse and forbs. Because of their need for high-quality foods, deer are always on the move while feeding. They take a bite and move on, spending little time in one spot, selecting the best foods that are available. This continued movement ensures a properly balanced diet if sufficient plant species are present.

Like other ruminants, the mule deer has a four-chambered stomach. When they eat, the food is swallowed with a minimum amount of chewing. Between feedings, the food is regurgitated and rechewed as cud. When reswallowed, it passes through the other chambers of the stomach and on through the digestive system. Food passes through their digestive system much more rapidly than in elk or cattle, however, and this short retention time limits just how much plant material mule deer can digest. This, combined with a faster metabolism than elk or cattle, is what drives their need for high-quality, easily digestible foods.

Availability of water can influence deer use of a particular area. Their daily intake varies from 0 to 1 1/2 quarts per 100 pounds of body weight. This is influenced by time of year, activity, and the kind of forage the deer is eating.

Sign

The most common sign of deer use of an area is their tracks. The track is from 2 3/4 to 3 1/4 inches long, and the walking stride is 22 to 24 inches long. When the mule deer runs, all four feet leave the ground at once, unlike the white-tailed deer, which pushes off with its hind feet. The resulting track patterns of the two species obviously differ.

When a deer browses, a characteristic stub remains (Figure 5). The jagged, shredded end of the twig results when the lower incisors pinch the twig against the toothless upper gums. The deer pulls and actually tears the twig, leaving a jagged, uneven end rather than a smooth cut.

Bucks remove the velvet from their antlers on small trees and shrubs. The scarred and broken branches and bark are easily observed about 18 inches above the ground. Many of these may be found in an area because one buck will rub several trees.

The dark brown scat of mule deer is usually found in clumps. Each pellet is about 1/2 inch long and tapered on one end. The fibrous material on which a deer has been feeding is often observable in the scat.

Figure 5. Browsing by deer leaves jagged twig ends.

Habitat Enhancement Recommendations

Owners who want to improve mule deer habitat on private lands should keep in mind a wide range of considerations. Ideal range of mule deer provides both food and cover, with shrublands and woodlands providing the best habitat because they provide both food and cover. Conversely, grasslands tend to be poorer habitat because they usually lack cover (Bender, 2012). Diversity is the key to managing mule deer; the healthiest deer herds are those on ranges that supply the greatest variety and abundance of woody browse and forbs of high nutritional quality throughout the year. Whether mule deer need free water is uncertain; they can probably meet their needs from succulent foods. However, they do prefer sites around water, and free water may be required during droughts or while raising fawns. Thus, permanent watering spots should be retained and created where desired, especially in desert mule deer ranges. When new impoundments are built, several smaller holes are more desirable than one large one.

Management and the Future

Hunting is the main source of mortality for adult bucks, and control of hunting seasons is used to manage mule deer populations in New Mexico. The locations, date, and length of seasons are used to control hunter numbers and densities; this in turn controls harvest to some extent. In areas where deer are abundant, antlerless and either-sex hunts are used. This encourages harvest by hunters where numbers need to be reduced and maintains a younger, more productive age structure in the doe population.

Ultimately, however, habitat is the key to mule deer populations. Peaks in mule deer populations in the mid-1900s resulted from obvious and subtle landscape changes associated with human settlement (see, for example, the history in Clements and Young, 1997). Habitat changes resulting from extensive logging, initial overgrazing of grasslands, and large wildfires greatly favored mule deer by creating large areas of shrublands and early successional (saplings) forests. Mule deer responded to these new habitats, especially the huge increase in shrublands, with population increases that peaked generally sometime during the 1940s to 1970s. Later, improved range management favoring grasses over shrubs, control of fires allowing shrublands to grow old or develop into closed forests, and greatly reduced logging all reduced preferred mule deer habitats. These changes have decreased the amount of mule deer habitat in New Mexico and throughout the West. As one example, the amount of forestland in aspen, probably the best mule deer habitat in northern New Mexico, has declined 88% (Bartos, 2001). These changes have driven deer populations down because they have greatly reduced both the amount and quality of mule deer habitat.

Thus, the welfare of mule deer in New Mexico is influenced by other uses of forests and rangelands. Land use policies developed by land management agencies are an important component of mule deer management. Only through coordinated efforts of these agencies and support for management programs from the general public can New Mexico be assured of a healthy mule deer population.

So, what does the future hold for mule deer? The “good old days” of the 1950s and 1960s are gone forever; the circumstances that created so much high-quality habitat can never be duplicated in modern times. However, managers can continue to try to maintain or increase the quality of remaining habitats to increase mule deer numbers above the current low levels. Cooperative Extension programs, the Western Association of Fish and Wildlife Agencies Mule Deer Working Group (www.muledeerworkinggroup.com), and State Wildlife Agencies all have publications and other information available on increasing the quality of deer habitat. For more information on all aspects of mule and white-tailed deer ecology and management, see Deer of the Southwest (Heffelfinger, 2006).

References

Bartos, D.L. 2001. Landscape dynamics of aspen and conifer forests. In W.D. Shepperd, D. Binkley, D.L. Bartos, T.J. Stohlgren, and L.G. Eskew (compilers), Sustaining aspen in western ecosystems: Symposium proceedings [Proceedings RMRS-P-18], (pp. 5-14). Fort Collins: U.S. Forest Service, Rocky Mountain Research Station.

Bender, L.C. 2011. Basics of trophy management [Guide L-111]. Las Cruces: New Mexico State University Cooperative Extension Service.

Bender, L.C. 2012. Guidelines for management of habitat for mule deer: Piñon-juniper, Chihuahuan desert, arid grasslands, and associated arid habitat types [Circular 662]. Las Cruces: New Mexico State University Cooperative Extension Service.

Bender, L.C., L.A. Lomas, and J. Browning. 2007. Condition, survival, and cause-specific mortality of mule deer in northcentral New Mexico. Journal of Wildlife Management, 71, 1118—1124.

Bender, L.C., J.C. Boren, H. Halbritter, and S. Cox. 2011. Condition, survival, and productivity of mule deer in semiarid grassland-woodland in east-central New Mexico. Human-Wildlife Interactions, 5, 276—286.

Bender, L.C., B.D. Hoenes, and C.L. Rodden. 2012. Factors influencing survival of desert mule deer in the greater San Andres Mountains, New Mexico. Human-Wildlife Interactions, 6, 245—260.

Clements, C.D., and J.A. Young. 1997. A viewpoint: Rangeland health and mule deer habitat. Journal of Range Management, 50, 129-138.

Heffelfinger, J. 2006. Deer of the Southwest. College Station: Texas A&M University Press.

Heffelfinger, J.R., and T.A. Messmer. 2003. Introduction. In J.C. de Vos, Jr., M.R. Conover, and N.E. Headrick (Eds.), Mule deer conservation: Issues and management challenges (pp. 1-11). Logan, UT: Jack H. Berryman Institute.

Lomas, L.A., and L.C. Bender. 2007. Survival and cause-specific mortality of mule deer fawns in northcentral New Mexico. Journal of Wildlife Management, 71, 884-894.

Original author: James E. Knight, Extension Wildlife Specialist.

Acknowledgement: Some of the information presented here was obtained from publications of the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish (www.wildlife.state.nm.us). This agency is responsible for the management of big game populations in New Mexico.

To find more resources for your business, home, or family, visit the College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences on the World Wide Web at pubs.nmsu.edu

Contents of publications may be freely reproduced for educational purposes. All other rights reserved. For permission to use publications for other purposes, contact [email protected] or the authors listed on the publication.

New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. NMSU and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.

May 2014

With an even longer riser to axle-to-axle ratio than the previous V3 31, the V3X has a two inch increase out to 33in and a brace height increase from 6in out to 6.5in.

The V3X is offered in two axle to axle lengths, 33in for maximum stability and string angle comfort at full draw for longer draw lengths. The 29in, which is sold separately, is tailored towards ultimate agility in tight spaces; the V3X gives hunters a compact rig without compromising Mathews industry leading accuracy.

The V3X 33 sports a 6.5in brace height and delivers speeds up to 336fps. The geometry of the V3 platform opened up a new threshold of capabilities, allowing Mathews to increase the overall riser length while keeping an ultra compact frame with unmatched stability.

Being paired with the 740 harmonic damper for ultimate stealth and Centerguard technology for perfect timing, the V3X gives gave hard core bow hunters more function than ever before. Now with the introduction of the V3X we get to see the most advanced hunting platform Mathews has created.

Centerguard Cable Containment system places the roller guard in the true centre of the bow, resulting in optimal cam timing and a balanced draw cycle to maximise tunability while also adding additional vane clearance.

Extended Bridged Riser – stability is the key to accuracy, taking a strategic approach to the riser design led to a platform that cut weight while maximising length and rigidity in critical areas. The V3X sports the longest riser to axle-to-axle ratio Mathews has ever built.

Limbs and Limb Cups – deflected limbs and past parallel geometry, paired with a redesigned limb cup, cuts weight while increasing performance and efficiency.

Nano 740 Stealth remains a top priority on the V3X. The riser platform and limb geometry also increased cam efficencies and enhanced the effects of 3D damping for less noise and vibration than ever before. The V3X deploys the Nano 740, which is calibrated and tuned to the specific harmonics of this model. The extended position also provides added balance at full draw.

Since its inception SwitchWeight Technology has been extremely convenient and allows shooters not only the ability to change draw length but also peak draw weight in 5 pound increments via the cam’s module instead of changing limbs. Available in 60, 65, 70 and 75 pound peak weights. Each set of modules are programmed for an incredibly smooth draw and maximum efficency. For further customisation, modules are available in 85% let-off. Also comes in 80% let-off which is not a stocked item but can be special ordered. Please enquire.

Silent Connect System is compatible with the V3X. This optional kit enables hunters to attach Mathews genuine bow rope and bow sling in the field quickly and silently.

Specs at a glance

IBO Speed up to 336 fpsWeight ranges 60lbs, 65lbs, 70lbs, 75 lbs. Please specify weight required. All bows are adjustable 10lbs down from the peak draw weightDraw length range 27.5in-31.5in. Please specify draw lengthBrace Height 6.5inAxle to Axle 33inMass weight 4.67lbsLet-Off 85% standard. Also comes in 80% let-off which is not a stocked item but can be special ordered. Please enquire. Switchweight modules for the ultimate ease in changing the bow’s peak weightMathews genuine bowstrings and cablesExtended bridge riserCenterguard Cable Containment system3D Damping TechnologyAvailable in Right Hand and Left Hand. Please specify RH or LHMade in USA

.22 WMR

I won’t go as far as to belittle the, uh, little .17 Winchester Super Magnum. It’s a unique cartridge that does what no rimfire has done before. It’s the fastest rimfire ever designed and actually performs spectacularly – for a rimfire.

What I will do is ask, why? The great charm about rimfires is that they’re versatile and inexpensive to shoot. The .17 WSM, superb distance performer that it is, is neither. While it’s capable of perforating a prairie dog farther away than “common” rounds, such as the .22 Magnum, most savvy shooters have transitioned to centerfires when distances stretch that far. And up close the .17 WSM is actually going too fast: Squirrels and cottontails suffering a body shot from it leave the hunter with little but fluff.

By stew-pot decree, any rimfire not well suited for small-game hunting is, well, not really a rimfire. It’s an outcast. What some folks charitably term a “niche” cartridge.

Contrast that with the .22 Magnum. While it’s not as aerodynamic as its .17-caliber sibling, it hits authoritatively within the rimfire’s realm – inside of 150 yards or so. For small-game hunting, full-metal-jacket projectiles minimize meat damage; likewise valuable pelts about to be separated from their host furbearer. Butchers effectively use a .22 Mag pellet between the eyes on even the biggest steer.

Government trappers prefer it for killing troublesome mountain lions – cats die in the tree instead of being knocked out, hurt and fighting mad, into their pack of valuable dogs.

And, finally, even homeowners have viable ammunition choices engineered specifically for self-defense to choose from. If that’s not versatility, what is? – Joeseph von Benedikt

.17 WSM

Hunters need just two rimfire cartridges for small game: a .22 LR if they want to eat it and a .17 Winchester Super Magnum (WSM) if they wish to kill it. The .22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire (WMR) splits the difference between the two, crushing them both in all the categories that don’t matter.

The .22 WMR fires a projectile too fast for use on tablefare, such as squirrel or rabbits. What’s more, the bullets are ballistically inefficient at longer range. See for yourself. With only a 5 mph breeze, Hornady’s .22 WMR 30-grain V-MAX drifts 6.9 inches and strikes with 94 ft.-lbs. of energy at 150 yards. At that same range, Winchester’s .17 WSM 20-grain load drifts only 2 inches and carries an impressive 230 ft.-lbs. of energy. At 200 yards, where the .22 WMR is running on fumes, the .17 WSM is still scooting right along and carries twice the energy of the .17 HMR, itself a long-range rimfire.

What about bullet weight and penetration, two attributes the .22 WMR does possess? They simply don’t matter on game that can fit inside your mother’s purse. What about coyotes? Skip both and use a centerfire.

However, if you must use a rimfire on predators, opt for the 25-grain .17 WSM load. Using its superior velocity, the .17 can and will knock down any coyote within 150 yards as long as you hit your mark. You’ll be surprised at the long-range killing power of this little thumper, and you’ll save a few bucks in the process.

Speed kills, and the .17 WSM slaughters the .22 WMR in velocity, trajectory, wind drift, and retained energy. Its rimfire lethality is far superior to anything stamped “.22 WMR.” – D. Faubion