There are many benefits to night fishing for bass, especially during the summer months. Warm waters in evening hours make fish sluggish, so they are less skittish and more inclined to take your bait! Another great advantage to fishing at night is you usually have the water all to yourself—and after dark in high-summer is often the only time that is possible. While fishing at night may seem intimidating for those who haven’t done it before, it’s actually quite simple and easy to do. Ahead, get expert tips from angler extraordinaire Jerry Audet who shares important safety tips as well as secret tricks for the best success.

Why Go Fishing At Night?

Many fishermen are surprised to know that bass can be caught easily at night, but the truth is that bass really never stop feeding (provided water temperatures are adequate for their metabolism). They may be more or less aggressive based on a variety of factors, but they’re always looking for a meal—especially when the Sun goes down.

Bass have excellent senses that extend beyond vision, and the night actually gives them an ambush advantage, so they are more inclined to do their own fishing in the dark. In fact, even in the daylight, bass don’t rely on their sight as a primary sense. Instead, they detect vibrations and sounds to zero-in on their prey. Sight is reserved for the end of the hunt. They are great nocturnal hunters because they don’t have to see their prey to chase it down.

Safety Is Important

Safety is important—especially if you’re in a kayak or a boat. Make sure you use night fishing lights (called “running lights”), a loud horn or air can in case of an emergency, and a very bright light that you can flash at a boater who may not be paying attention. Fish in waters that you know well so you don’t get lost. (Don’t explore at night. Save that for during the day.). Also, always go out with a fishing buddy. Night fishing is really simple and easy once you get used to it. But if you’re nervous, we suggest fishing from shore first (which is far less complicated).

Any Special Gear?

No special gear is needed to fish at night, except a headlamp. Don’t use it while you’re fishing, only when you need to change a lure, tie a knot, or release a fish. Try to keep the light off the water, as it can spook fish. I like using a red headlight for this reason. Plus, it helps preserve your night vision. (White lights are blinding.)

How About Lures And Bait?

As far as lures go, many anglers think a glowing lure is important, so the bass can see it. But this simply isn’t true and may actually be a deterrent as it looks unnatural. Color matters a lot less at night, as the bass track your lures by sound and vibration.

Fish actually have an easier time seeing a dark colored lure at night, as the contrast with dark water or sky is easier for them to detect. The best nighttime colors vary based on what you are doing, how dark the night is, and how deep your lure is in the water. The higher up in the water column, the lighter your lure’s belly should be. This simulates nature.

Most fish and frogs have white bellies and bass are most likely looking up at the lure from beneath it. If you’re mid-column or down deep, use a dark green, black, or purple lure. However if you’re just starting out at night, white is a perfectly fine color. It’s easier for you to see and work with (in and out of the water), and it will catch bass the vast majority of the time (day and night).

At night, use lures that ride high in the water. Fish will slide into the shallows after dark looking for food (because they’re less afraid of being spotted by predators) and working those skinny waters means you are more likely to get a snag.

Using a lure that stays near the surface really helps prevent this. Something that throws a wake on the surface really draws the fish’s attention after dark. Some of the best night fishing lures include wake baits and slow-sink weightless soft-plastics (usually jerk-bait style), but subtle poppers, walk-the-dog lures, and shallow-running crank baits all work great. However, chances are that your favorite day-time lure will work great at night too. It’s just up to you to give it a shot!

Good luck night fishing!

Join The Discussion

Have you ever been fishing at night?

Had much success?

Share your experience with your community here in the comments below!

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With an even longer riser to axle-to-axle ratio than the previous V3 31, the V3X has a two inch increase out to 33in and a brace height increase from 6in out to 6.5in.

The V3X is offered in two axle to axle lengths, 33in for maximum stability and string angle comfort at full draw for longer draw lengths. The 29in, which is sold separately, is tailored towards ultimate agility in tight spaces; the V3X gives hunters a compact rig without compromising Mathews industry leading accuracy.

The V3X 33 sports a 6.5in brace height and delivers speeds up to 336fps. The geometry of the V3 platform opened up a new threshold of capabilities, allowing Mathews to increase the overall riser length while keeping an ultra compact frame with unmatched stability.

Being paired with the 740 harmonic damper for ultimate stealth and Centerguard technology for perfect timing, the V3X gives gave hard core bow hunters more function than ever before. Now with the introduction of the V3X we get to see the most advanced hunting platform Mathews has created.

Centerguard Cable Containment system places the roller guard in the true centre of the bow, resulting in optimal cam timing and a balanced draw cycle to maximise tunability while also adding additional vane clearance.

Extended Bridged Riser – stability is the key to accuracy, taking a strategic approach to the riser design led to a platform that cut weight while maximising length and rigidity in critical areas. The V3X sports the longest riser to axle-to-axle ratio Mathews has ever built.

Limbs and Limb Cups – deflected limbs and past parallel geometry, paired with a redesigned limb cup, cuts weight while increasing performance and efficiency.

Nano 740 Stealth remains a top priority on the V3X. The riser platform and limb geometry also increased cam efficencies and enhanced the effects of 3D damping for less noise and vibration than ever before. The V3X deploys the Nano 740, which is calibrated and tuned to the specific harmonics of this model. The extended position also provides added balance at full draw.

Since its inception SwitchWeight Technology has been extremely convenient and allows shooters not only the ability to change draw length but also peak draw weight in 5 pound increments via the cam’s module instead of changing limbs. Available in 60, 65, 70 and 75 pound peak weights. Each set of modules are programmed for an incredibly smooth draw and maximum efficency. For further customisation, modules are available in 85% let-off. Also comes in 80% let-off which is not a stocked item but can be special ordered. Please enquire.

Silent Connect System is compatible with the V3X. This optional kit enables hunters to attach Mathews genuine bow rope and bow sling in the field quickly and silently.

Specs at a glance

IBO Speed up to 336 fpsWeight ranges 60lbs, 65lbs, 70lbs, 75 lbs. Please specify weight required. All bows are adjustable 10lbs down from the peak draw weightDraw length range 27.5in-31.5in. Please specify draw lengthBrace Height 6.5inAxle to Axle 33inMass weight 4.67lbsLet-Off 85% standard. Also comes in 80% let-off which is not a stocked item but can be special ordered. Please enquire. Switchweight modules for the ultimate ease in changing the bow’s peak weightMathews genuine bowstrings and cablesExtended bridge riserCenterguard Cable Containment system3D Damping TechnologyAvailable in Right Hand and Left Hand. Please specify RH or LHMade in USA

Ohio deer hunting continues to top the list of trophy whitetail destinations due in large part to an excellent deer management program. Ohio’s deer management program is designed to control the state’s deer herd by harvesting does, while maintaining a very conservative buck harvest. Deer hunters are allowed to harvest one antlered deer in Ohio per year. This allows for a balanced population while maintaining the necessary conditions to produce world class deer like the ones below.

Record Setting Ohio Whitetails

Ohio’s World Famous Hole in the Horn Buck

Ohio is home to some of the biggest whitetail bucks in the world, including the #2 non-typical of all time.The “Hole in the Horn” buck. This unbelievable buck is not the biggest buck ever killed in Ohio because it was found dead in Portage county in 1940 and scored an incredible 328 2/8 inches! An amazing Ohio record whitetail.

Ohio’s Beatty Buck

Another huge whitetail buck exceeding 300 inches.Yes, I said 300 inches! The Beaty buck is the biggest buck ever killed in Ohio and was harvested in Greene county on November 8th 2000. The Beatty buck was 4 1/2 years old which was confirmed through laboratory testing in which a tooth is cross sectioned and studied under a microscope, similar to aging a tree. 4 1/2 years old! How is that for genetics! Another incredible Ohio record whitetail.

Ohio’s Jerman Buck

On November 10th 2004 in Warren county, a giant typical buck fell to a well placed shot from Brad Jermans crossbow and became the new Ohio record typical with a score of 201 1/8…Unbelievable Ohio record whitetail!

Ohio’s Mike Rex Buck

In 2005, on opening day of archery season, Mike Rex of Athens, Ohio killed this buck that had 17 points, 15 inch brow tines and scored 218 6/8. What a beautiful Animal!

Ohio’s Amish Buck

Another record buck was harvested on opening day of archery season in 2006. The Ohio Amish buck. Jonathon Schmucker of Seaman Ohio, located in Adams, county downed the 36 point buck on the first afternoon of the 2006 season. The buck scored an incredible 291-2/8, making it the number two whitetail in the state and the biggest buck ever killed in Ohio with a crossbow.

The Amish buck was reportedly fed Lucky Buck deer attractant prior to being killed.

This combination of incredible genetics, proper herd management, and an abundance of agriculture and cover makes Ohio one of our top choices for bagging a trophy whitetail!

Top Areas For Ohio Deer Hunting

While trophy bucks can be found in every corner of the Buckeye State, Coshocton, Licking, and Muskingum counties in east-central Ohio top the list of most deer harvested. These counties consistently produce massive bucks and offer some great opportunities for public land deer hunting.

For harvesting trophy bucks, three Ohio public deer hunting areas come to mind in this part of the state, Dillon Wildlife Area, Woodbury Wildlife area, and the Conesville Coal Lands.

We personally hunted the Dillon Wildlife Area during the first week of November in 2007, and we can tell you that, while receiving a fair amount of pressure, if you look closely, you can find unpressured deer. Study the maps and look for places that other deer hunters will overlook. We did exactly that and had a 150 inch 10 pointer at 40 yards chasing a doe recklessly through the woodlot. There was not another hunter around and we were within 100 yards of a main road!

The Woodbury Wildlife Area comprises almost 20,000 acres of prime whitetail habitat in east central Ohio. There is good public access along state routes 16, 36, 60 and 541, as well as numerous county and township roads. Again, the key to finding a trophy buck is to study maps of the area and find small spots that other hunters will overlook. These spots do not have to be miles into the timber. They can be right under everybody’s noses!

The Conesville Coal Lands are another great place to hunt deer in Ohio and it consists of about 12,000 acres of prime whitetail habitat in Coshocton and Muskingum counties. Hunting here requires a free permit available at local bait shops or by contacting American Electric Power at www.aep.com/. Click here for tips on hunting AEP Land.

Perhaps the best way to bag a trophy buck, is to gain access to private land, and the way to do that is to hire an outfitter. There are many to choose from, but we have hunted with Matt Hopkins and Jim Woodward from Wolf Creek Whitetails and we have been very impressed. These guys provide you with quality, unpressured, private land to hunt with treestands already hung and plenty of food plots. You can also bring your best climbing tree stand if you prefer. They have access to some of the best land in Morgan County. Check out their Ohio trail camera pictures!

Another Ohio outfitter that we have heard good things about is Joe Miller from Woodbury Outfitters. They offer unguided and semi guided hunts for antlered deer. Whichever outfitter that you choose to hunt deer in Ohio, be sure to book early in order to get the dates that you want, good rut weeks fill up fast.

In addition to the east central part of the state, southwestern Ohio is rapidly gaining fame as a trophy buck hotspot, thanks in part to the Amish Buck and the Metzner Buck both taken in Adams county.

Ohio’s Metzner Buck

Taken in Adams county in 2006 on land bordering Brush Creek State Forest. Justin Metzner’s buck scores and incredible 196-6/8, making it the second biggest buck ever killed in Ohio by a bowhunter!

Top Ohio Public Deer Hunting Areas In Southwest Part of the State

RELATED: How Many Hunters In The US

Brush Creek State Forest

Brush Creek consists of over 13,000 acres of steep hillsides, deep hollows, and narrow ridge tops. Prime hardwood forests with supplemental feed for the whitetails on the private farms bordering the forest. This is where the Metzner buck was taken in 2006. Look for more huge Ohio bucks from this area in the future!

Tranquility Wildlife Area

Tranquility consists of over 4000 acres, about 400 of which are dedicated to food plots. Approximately half of this area is mature hardwoods and there are plenty of places for big bucks to hide, as evidenced by a 165 inch buck taken during the December muzzleloader season! Don’t overlook this Adams county gem for antlered deer.

Shawnee State Forest

Consisting of over 60,000 acres, Shawnee is the largest state forest in Ohio. Ongoing logging operations make access easier along the many logging roads. This is extremely rugged country…So be prepared. There is a lot of 5 to 6 year old new growth which provides prime habitat for big Ohio bucks to grow old. Look for some monsters to come out of here in the next few years!

If you are looking for access to private land…Our choice for Ohio outfitters in this part of the state is David Lusk at Southern Ohio Outfitters. David has over 6,500 acres of prime whitetail habitat, including food plots, that has been managed to produce some of the biggest bucks Ohio can offer. Again, be sure to book early, good rut weeks go fast!

Here is our summary of why you should try your hand at Ohio deer hunting

• Ohio has the right terrain, habitat, crops, food plots and genetics that consistently produce big bucks.
• Ohio has a short gun season, held after the rut and only allows shotguns and straight walled cartridge rifles.
• Ohio sells Non Resident hunting licenses and deer tags over the counter for only $149.
• Ohio has a one-buck per year limit and can be taken with any weapon, any county or in any zone on the same deer permit.
• The Ohio deer hunting season runs from September until February, making it a four month season.
• Ohio Department of Natural Resources has very consistent regulations with a great website www.dnr.state.oh.us/

Another option for hunting deer in the Buckeye state is to get an Ohio deer hunting lease of your own.

Ohio Deer Hunting Season

Ohio deer hunting season is one of the most liberal in the United States. The archery season season begins on September 27 and goes all the way to February 1st, with Sunday hunting allowed, that means a possible 127 days afield. That is a lot of time in the woods and reason enough to take up bowhunting. Keep in mind that crossbows are allowed in Ohio during archery season.

The deer gun season in Ohio is for shotgun and straight walled cartridge rifles, and is typically held after the rut.

The state also has a youth deer gun season that is held before the regular deer gun season.

There is also a muzzleloader season in January. This can be a great time to hunt big deer in Ohio, as they try to fatten up after the rigors of the rut.

If you are serious about harvesting a mature buck in Ohio, then you must hunt during archery season in order to take advantage of the rut.

Click on the link to visit the Ohio Department of Natural Resources website complete regulations regarding the Ohio season dates.

The best time to harvest a mature buck in Ohio is during archery season and the November rut!

Ohio Trail Camera Pictures

Check out these trail camera pictures submitted by Ohio deer hunting outfitters Wolf Creek Whitetails

Holy Ohio big bucks.com batman!

Click here for more Ohio trail cam pics.

Planning Your Ohio Deer Hunting Trip

It doesn’t matter if you are hunting public land or with one of the top Ohio deer hunting outfitters, you need to be prepared.

So we have put together a checklist of some of the commonly forgotten items that you need for your deer hunting trip.

• Hunting License – You’d be surprised how many people forget this!
• Boots and Socks – Click here for the best hunting socks you can buy.
• Bow or Crossbow – You’d be surprised how many hunters have to turn around after they’ve started their trip because they forgot their weapon. Here is our guide to the best beginner compound bow.
• Broadheads – Here is our guide to the best broadheads for deer.
• Flashlight or headlight
• Rain Gear – Some of the best deer hunting in Ohio that I have had was in the rain. Don’t forget your hunting rain gear and your best tree stand umbrella.
• Hand Warmers
• Thermos – Very handy for all day hunts.
• Knife – Check out our guide to choosing the Best Deer Hunting Knife.
• Target – Always good to take some shots when you get to Ohio. Here is a guide to the best archery target for broadheads and field points.
• Calls – I like to bring a grunt call, bleat call and a set of rattling antlers.
• Tree Stand – Here is our guide to the best tree stand. Even if you are hunting with an outfitter, consider bringing a climbing tree stand. It will give you the ability to move on your own, if you see a pattern to the deer movement.
• Safety Harness and Rope or strap – Bring the best hunting safety harness that you can afford.
• Binoculars – Here’s our guide to the best hunting binoculars.
• Rangefinder – I actually bring two of these. Here is our guide to the best rangefinder for bow hunting.
• Cooler – For getting your meat home.

Those are just a few of the more common items that deer hunters forget to bring when they travel to hunt deer in ohio.

Leave your comments below. We would love to hear about your experiences or just leave us an Ohio deer hunting report.

Introduction

Sharpshooting, a skillful and precision-driven sport, has gained immense popularity among shooting enthusiasts. At the heart of this thrilling activity lies the essence of accuracy and efficiency. Firebird Targets, a revolutionary addition to the sharpshooting world, have redefined the way shooters engage with their targets. In this article, we delve into how Firebird Targets significantly enhance the experience and skills of sharpshooters, with a particular focus on airguns, including the more powerful big bore air guns.

What are Firebird Targets?

Firebird Targets are not just a modern innovation in shooting sports; they are a game-changer. These targets, distinct in their design, incorporate a reactive substance that ignites with a bright flash and a loud bang upon impact. This reaction is more than just visually stimulating—it’s a direct, immediate indicator of a successful hit. The design of Firebird Targets is a blend of advanced materials and chemistry, ensuring that the ignition is safe and controlled. These targets are suitable for a variety of shooting environments, from controlled ranges to open outdoor settings, making them versatile for different shooting disciplines.

The Advantages of Using Firebird Targets with Airguns

The use of Firebird Targets with airgun, especially in precision shooting, brings a multitude of advantages:

• Enhanced Precision and Accuracy: The immediate feedback from Firebird Targets is a boon for precision shooters. It enables shooters to see and hear their success instantly, which is crucial for fine-tuning shooting skills.
• Training Efficiency: In training scenarios, this immediate feedback means less time spent checking targets and more time focused on shooting practice.
• Safety and Environmental Benefits: Beyond the thrill and training benefits, Firebird Targets are designed with safety as a priority. They are environmentally friendly, reducing the waste often associated with traditional paper or metal targets.

The Synergy between Big Bore Air Guns and Firebird Targets

When combined with big bore air guns, Firebird Target offers a unique and enhanced shooting experience. Big bore air guns, known for their significant power and larger caliber projectiles, are particularly well-suited for use with Firebird Targets. The high-powered impact of these airguns ensures a complete and spectacular reaction from the targets, providing an intense and satisfying experience for the shooter.

• Maximizing the Shooting Experience: The pairing of big bore air guns with Firebird Targets brings a new level of excitement to shooting practices. The visual and auditory feedback from the targets is amplified, making every shot feel impactful and rewarding.
• Skill Development and Training: For those practicing precision shooting, the combination of these airguns and targets provides an excellent platform for skill enhancement. The high-caliber impact offers a realistic and challenging environment for shooters to refine their accuracy and control.
• Real-World Applications: This pairing is also beneficial for hunters and tactical shooters who use big bore airguns. It offers a realistic training environment, replicating the conditions and feedback they would experience in real-world scenarios.

Practical Tips for Using Firebird Targets with Airguns

Optimizing the use of Firebird Targets with airguns involves several key considerations:

• Target Placement and Distance: Correct placement of Firebird Targets is crucial for safe and effective shooting. Consider the range and power of the airgun when determining the distance and arrangement of the targets.
• Target Maintenance and Longevity: While Firebird Targets are designed for durability, proper handling and storage will extend their life. Keep them in a cool, dry place when not in use.
• Shooting Techniques and Safety: Regardless of experience level, it’s important to prioritize safety when using these targets. This includes wearing appropriate protective gear and following standard shooting safety protocols. Additionally, shooters should focus on honing their shooting techniques to fully capitalize on the benefits of Firebird Targets.

Conclusion

The integration of Firebird Targets in sharpshooting has not just been a technological leap; it has been a transformation in the way we approach and understand precision shooting. These targets, with their instant feedback mechanism, have the potential to revolutionize training methods, making learning and improvement more accessible and efficient for shooters of all skill levels. The compatibility of these targets with airguns, particularly big bore air guns, further enhances their utility, providing an unmatched experience that is both thrilling and beneficial for skill development. As we look towards the future of sharpshooting, it is evident that innovations like Firebird Targets will continue to shape and evolve the sport. For enthusiasts, professionals, and novices alike, embracing these advancements means not only enjoying a more engaging shooting experience but also stepping into a new era of precision and excellence in the sport of sharpshooting.

The versatility of a shotgun cannot be matched by many other types of firearms. You can select from a wide variety of gauges, barrel lengths, chokes, shot sizes, and more. This allows a shooter to utilize a shotgun for a multitude of purposes like hunting, home defense, and sporting clays.

However, all the different varieties and purposes can be overwhelming to new shotgun owners. Instead of covering every potential shotgun variation, it’s best to focus on the biggest question new shooters have, “Which gauge works best for me?”

Most prospective shotgun owners will narrow their choices down to two options: 12 vs 20 gauge.

The 12-gauge shotgun is the most effective one-gun solution for hunting, target shooting, and home defense. However, that doesn’t mean that the 12-gauge is the best choice for every situation.

In this article we will analyze the advantages and disadvantages of the two most popular shotgun options, 12 and 20-gauge.

What’s the Difference Between 12 Gauge vs 20 Gauge?

The difference between 12 and 20-gauge shotguns is their bore diameter. A 12 gauge has a bore diameter of 0.729” compared to 0.615” for 20 gauge. This means that a 12 gauge can fire larger payloads of buckshot at higher muzzle velocity at the cost of higher felt recoil.

12 Gauge vs 20 Gauge: Understanding Shotgun Gauges

If you’re familiar with shotguns, you’ll know that a lower gauge means a bigger caliber. However, if you’re new to shotguns or firearms in general, this can be a confusing concept to grasp.

Handgun and rifle calibers are defined by their internal bore diameter. A 40-caliber handgun has 0.40 inch diameter bore. This means the bigger the number, the bigger the bullet the gun can fire. However, shotgun gauges are determined by a more archaic system.

Gauge is determined by the number of lead balls with the same diameter as the barrel would add up to one pound.

For a 12-gauge shotgun with a bore diameter of 0.729” it would require twelve lead balls to equal one pound. Likewise, for 20 gauge guns, it requires 20 lead balls with a 0.615 inch diameter to equal one pound.

A Special Note On 20-Gauge Shells: Yellow is the New Black

If you’re new to shotguns you might not be aware that all 20-gauge shotgun shells are required to be colored yellow, regardless of payload.

This is to endure that a shooter does not mistakenly load a 20-gauge shell into a 12-gauge shotgun. If this were to happen, it’s possible that a 12-gauge shell loaded behind could cause the 20-gauge shell to fire inside the magazine causing catastrophic damage to the firearm and potentially the shooter.

For this reason, it has been mandated that all 20-guage shells are colored yellow to make them easily distinguishable from 12-guage shells.

Recoil

When it comes to felt recoil, 20-gauge shells win by a country mile. As 12 gauge shells pack a heavier payload of projectiles and powder they will always have more recoil than comparative 20 gauge ammo. This chart compares the felt recoil experienced by the shooter for three popular 12 and 20 gauge Winchester SXP hunting loads.

Less recoil gives a 20-gauge shotgun two distinct advantages.

The first advantage is the comfort factor to the shooter. Although felt recoil will be different between shooters, the low recoil impulse that the 20-gauge shells impart on its user’s shoulder often results in increased accuracy. Less recoil means that it is less likely for a shooter to develop a flinch or raise their head off the stock just prior to firing.

The second advantage is speed of follow-up shots. Regardless of whether you need to line up two quick shots on a pheasant you just kicked up or if you need to perform a mag dump in a self-defense situation, the lighter recoil of the 20 gauge makes this an easier task.

Accuracy/Pattern Density

To understand pattern density, it’s important to understand how a shotgun ammunition works.

A shotgun shell, or shotshell, is a plastic hull with a primer at the bottom. Inside the hull is a powder charge and on top of that is a plastic cup known as a “wad” to hold the projectiles known as “shot” which are essentially just round steel or lead balls.

Shot sizes will vary depending on what you’re planning on using the shotgun shell for. For self-defense you would want to use something larger like #00 buckshot (pronounced “double aught”), or if you’re hunting something smaller, like grouse or pheasant, a smaller option like #8 birdshot would be ideal.

One common misconception is that once the wad and buckshot leave the shotgun barrel, it behaves like a swarm of bees and scatters quickly. However, what happens is that the shot leaves the barrel in a column and begins to disperse.

There are numerous factors that affect how the projectiles disperse, such as minor imperfections on the surface of the shot, muzzle velocity, and stringing.

Stringing is a process where the shot at the top of the wad is deformed less during firing, while shot at the bottom of the wad endures the added pressure and weight of all the shot above it causing it to deform. This means that the buckshot at the top of the column will reach the target faster (because it’s more aerodynamic) than the shot at the bottom of the column.

The width of dispersion of shot when it reaches the target is referred to as pattern density. If the patter density is too wide, it’s possible to miss a smaller bird like a quail, at range. Conversely, if the pattern density is too tight it will be harder for shooters to score hits.

One other factor that can affect pattern density is the type of choke used in the shotgun barrel. A choke typically screws into the barrel and acts like a forcing cone, making the lead or steel shot a more compact column as they exit the barrel. Chokes will create a tighter pattern density but should not be used with slugs.

As the 12 gauge has a wider bore diameter, it can fit more shot into a wad. This means that it will have a higher pattern density than 20 gauge shot.

Stopping Power

The 12 gauge shotgun has been well known for its stopping power due to its effectiveness in trench warfare during WWI and in the jungles of the Pacific theatre during WWII. Furthermore, the 12 gauge Remington 870 pump-action shotgun is a favorite of law enforcement and can be found in squad cars across the United States.

There’s no denying that a 12 gauge load packs a huge punch, but how much? In the table below we compare three popular loads for both 12 gauge and 20-gauge shells.

Let’s compare the rifled slugs for the purpose of this explanation.

Even though both slugs exit the barrel with the same muzzle velocity of 1600 FPS, the 12 gauge load has a muzzle energy of 2488 foot-pounds while the 20 gauge load clocks in at 1865 foot-pounds (that’s a 33% difference!)

Although the disparity will vary between different loadings, 12 gauge shotgun ammunition will generally always have more stopping power than a comparative 20 gauge load.

Hunting

When it comes to getting into the woods for some hunting, you’ll find plenty of 12 and 20-gauge shotgun shooters in their tree stands or deer blinds in the fall.

Both shotgun gauges are extremely popular for hunting all types of game animals from upland bird, waterfowl, turkey, and even whitetail deer.

Proponents of the 20-gauge shotgun will cite its recoil advantage over the 12 gauge and suggest that it is more than sufficient for all sizes of game. On the other hand, 12-gauge aficionados will bring up the shotshell’s hard-hitting terminal ballistics and extended range that the 12 gauge offers.

Although 20-gauge loads can be effective for turkey hunting, waterfowl, and deer, the major issue is that you need to be at close range. As the 20 gauge shotshell has a lower muzzle velocity compared to the 12 gauge, the 20 will lose velocity faster and how a shorter effective range.

Therefore, the majority of hunters will grab their 12-gauge shotgun when they plan to hunt larger game animals like duck, goose, turkey, and deer. The extended range and stopping power more than make up for the additional felt recoil in most cases.

However, for small game or bird hunting, the 20-gauge is usually the best option. With its low recoil, it allows manufactures to produce a lighter gun that is quick and maneuverable. This makes it easier for hunters to quickly bring their gun to bear on a grouse or pheasant they kicked up. Furthermore, the lower recoil of the 20-gauge allows for extremely quick and accurate follow-up shots.

Just make sure you have adequately prepared your ammo. Don’t forget to check out our Fiocchi 20 Gauge ammo page for more options.

There’s absolutely no reason why you can’t bring your 12-gauge shotgun bird hunting as they are extremely effective. Although, if given the choice, most game hunters will opt for the lighter gun, and that’s most often a 20-gauge.

If you can only purchase one shotgun, then the 12-gauge is the best option as it does it all.

However, if you have the financial capability to purchase both, a 20-gauge shotgun is an excellent choice for small game while you can still employ your 12-gauge medium to large game hunting.

Self-Defense/Home Defense

When it comes to home defense, it’s hard to be a shotgun. Although some shooters contest that a handgun is the better choice, it simply does not compare to the sheer power that a shotgun offers.

For home defense, it is inadvisable to use rifled slugs as they will typically over penetrate and could hit an innocent bystander in the home or apartment next door. Buckshot is what you want loaded in your self-defense shotgun.

There is some scholarly debate amongst ballisticians as to which buckshot is the best option for home defense. Many swear by #00 buckshot as it is considered the gold standard for self-defense, however other state that #1 or #2 buckshot is more than sufficient for any home defense situation.

If you’re unfamiliar with buckshot designations, here is a chart explaining the difference.

As you can see, the difference between #00 buckshot vs #1 buckshot is 0.03” in projectile diameter. This debate has been beaten to death on the Internet, however the bottom line is that any would-be home invader will likely not be able to tell the difference.

But that brings us to which shotgun would be better for home defense? 12 vs 20 gauge?

Many shooters like the feel of a 12-gauge shotgun for home defense. It’s what the military and police use and for some people, that’s all they need to know. Others like the lower recoil of 20-gauge shells and feel they are more accurate with this ammo.

For close range engagements like those in a home, it won’t make much difference which shotgun you choose. Both will be more than effective in defending your life and the lives of your friends and/or family members.

Just make sure to load up with a quality buckshot (NOT birdshot or slugs) and you should be more than adequately prepared to take on any threat that enters your home and threatens your life.

Ammo and Rifle Cost/Availability

The beautiful thing about shotguns is their versatility. You have so many options, from a single shot, pump action, and even a semi-auto, the world is your oyster when it comes to shotguns.

Furthermore, entry level pump action models are typically inexpensive compared to most centerfire rifles and handguns. You can easily pick up a Remington 870 or Mossberg 500 for around $300 new in box at the time of writing.

Check out our stock of Remington 12 Gauge Ammunition for more options.

However, this does not mean that all shotguns are so affordable. If you’re looking to get into sporting clays, skeet, or trap shooting, most competition-ready shotguns will command several thousand dollars.

Although a 20-gauge shotgun typically requires less materials to produce, there is very little difference in price between 12 and 20-gauge shotguns.

As for variety, you will not lack for options for either gauge. However, there are going to be more options for the 12-gauge as it is the most popular gauge in North America due to its versatility.

The same is true for ammo cost. Although the 20-gauge shells are smaller and require less material for construction, there is very little difference in cost between 12 vs 20 gauge.

Since we are in the subject of the ammo cost, don’t forget to check out our Remington 20 Gauge Slugs page.

Just like for rifle variety, you will find more options when you are purchasing 12-gauge shells as they are the most popular. There are still plenty of options for 20-gauge ammunition, just less than 12 gauge.

Buying in bulk is always smart, make sure to check out our stock of bulk 12 gauge ammo.

Reloading

Reloading shotgun shells is something that many reloaders enjoy doing. However, as shotshells are relatively inexpensive, most reloaders do not bother reloading used hulls.

The cost savings for reloading shotgun shells is so low that only high-volume shooters ever worry about doing it, as it is usually cheaper just to buy new factory shotgun ammo. However, if you love the idea of optimizing your shotgun ammo, there’s nothing stopping you for loading your own shotshells.

Please note that shotshell reloading requires a specialized press that cannot be used for centerfire rifle and handgun reloading.

A Brief History of The Shotgun Shell

In their infancy, most firearms could fire a single projectile or multiple as they all had a smooth bore. Early firearms like those used by the settlers of the New World needed this versatility to survive by hunting small birds to deer with the same gun.

However, with the introducing of rifling during the mid-16th Century, rifles and shotguns became two separate entities with different purposes.

At this time, shotguns were mostly used for bird hunting but also saw use in law enforcement and protection details.

Did you ever “call shotgun” as a kid when getting into a car? This phrase dates back to the Wild West when the person sitting next to a stagecoach driver would carry a shotgun to protect the cargo or passengers from outlaws.

The first shotgun shell was introduced by the French gunsmith, Casimir Lefaucheux, in 1836. Most early shotgun shells were made entirely of brass as paper cartridges were unreliable and couldn’t be reloaded.

It wasn’t until 1960 when Remington introduced the plastic shotgun hull that is used today.

Final Shots: 12 Gauge vs 20 Gauge

There’s no denying that the 12 gauge is the “jack of all trades” option in the shotgun world. There plenty of target load options for sporting clays, trap, and skeet, heavy slugs for deer, and a variety of birdshot for turkey, waterfowl, and upland birds.

Not only is the 12 gauge a potent option for all forms of hunting, it is an extremely effective home defense option when loaded with quality buckshot shotshells.

However, just because the 12-gauge can do it all, that doesn’t mean that it’s always the best option.

The 20-gauge shotgun has proven itself to be a capable upland bird gun as it is fast, maneuverable, easy to carry, and packs enough punch to fell pheasants, grouse, and doves without issue. At close range, it can also be utilized for turkey, deer, and self-defense with proper loads. And it can do all of these things with approximately 33% less recoil than a 12 gauge.

Which shotgun gauge is best for you depends on your personal needs as a shooter. If you are recoil sensitive and only plan to hunt upland birds then the 20-gauge shotgun will be everything you need it to be.

The ideal choice would be to own both, however if you are on a budget then the 12-gauge shotgun is the best option as it does everything you could possibly want at a very reasonable price point.

Airguns, including big-bore airguns, have been around for a long time. Big bore air rifles are in a category totally of their own—some of which can take down deer-sized game. In the past six months or so I have worked with a few, as the idea of using an air rifle on deer, foxes, coyotes or even hogs intrigues me. The most recent example I’ve reviewed is the Winchester Model 70/35. If you have never shot a big bore air rifle, you really need to try one … and you can’t go wrong starting with the Winchester Model 70/35.

Out of the box

Right out of the box this air rifle impressed me. Although it was a bit heavier than some of the air rifles I have shot, the extra weight was worth it for the gorgeous beechwood stock and well-fitted parts. This rifle looks like a professional grade crafted tool. The pressure gauge is conveniently located under the stock, but out of sight so as not to detract from the classic look of this rifle. I put a CV LIFE 3-9×40 scope on the rifle. The scope is not expensive at all, but given the number of rounds it helped me put downrange with accurate movement of point of impact I decided to get another one.

Once the scope was mounted I charged the air rifle with the included adapter and loaded the magazines with Winchester .35 caliber 95-grain hollowpoints and went to my range. I began with a target at 25 yards and took the first few shots. This rifle was blissful to shoot right out of the box! The trigger is incredibly smooth and crisp—hands-down the best air rifle trigger I have ever pulled.

As for report, the rifle cracks less than a .22, but it is loud enough that if you live near someone they are going to wonder what you are doing, no doubt. (As always, eye and ear protection are required!) Cocking the rifle is easy. Fully chambering the pellet takes a firm push on the side lever, but nothing over the top by any means.

Accuracy Testing

Shots were consistent magazine after magazine with only one or two thrown outside of 1.5 inches … and I am quite sure that was my doing. I shot this rifle nearly 100 times in one sitting because it was so enjoyable. Charging it did not take that long, just five minutes or so on my powered compressor. I shot three magazines before I went to recharge the rifle each time, and I think I could have squeezed out a few more shots had I wanted to do so. Shots at 25 yards were in the same hole or touching.

I moved the target out to 50 yards and had approximately 1-inch groups time and again. Moving the target out a tad further the groups were still very impressive at less than 2 inches.

I would feel very comfortable shooting predators, groundhogs or nuisance animals with this at ranges up to 100 yards. I had hoped to get a shot at a deer with my special deer permit, but I wanted to keep my shots on deer at 50 yards or less. I did not get that opportunity yet. (Hopefully I will get a chance later this season.) This rifle groups very well!

While shooting at longer ranges with the sun behind me filtering through the trees, I could get glimpses of the pellet in flight from time to time much like you can sometimes see a crossbow bolt. Still, the pellets impacted my target well within the vital zone for hunting all the time.

The nice thing about a .35 caliber is that there are a slew of pellet choices out there. Honestly, the 95-grain hollowpoint Winchesters shot so well I did not try a bunch of other brands or weights. I would caution readers to make sure any pellets you purchase will fit in the magazine. Some pellets I had are too long to fit and be loaded into the rifle. Again, you cannot go wrong with the Winchester 95 gain hollow points based on my experience.

I was pleasantly surprised how these pellets ripped through the wooden slats of my target frame, so the thin skin of a predator shouldn’t be a problem. Take careful shots to hit vitals and you should be able to remove pests, no issues. However, remember that these pellets are going approximately 800 feet per second or less, so it is conceivable that the animal may hear the shot just before impact and duck if shot at longer ranges. So, keep that in mind if deer hunting with it.

In summary, this is the best rifle I have shot all year that is air powered. It is a joy to shoot and accurate too. The instructions are basic, but adequate. If you are looking for a classy, big bore, accurate air rifle, look no further. The Winchester 70/35 will more than leave you satisfied. MSRP $840; WinchesterAirRifles.com

Specs:

Caliber: .35 caliber

Action: Precharged Pneumatic side lever cock with 2 six shot rotary magazines included

Capacity: Internal cylinder holds up to 230 bar of pressure

Features: Manual safety, rubber recoil pad, beautiful beechwood stock with raised comb on left side for right handed shooters

Sights: but has an 11mm dovetail groove for mounting a scope.

Power: Delivers up to 132 ft.-lbs. energy with an 81-gr. pellet.

Comes with a 1-year warranty.

I wasn’t the first hunter who had been there. Even though I was miles from the nearest road, the glint of gray rock shining on the muddy creek bank told me at least one other hunter had walked this valley in the past 13,000 years. It was a stone point, carefully knapped to a razor’s edge when hunting gear meant the difference between life and death.

Searching for and collecting Native American artifacts is a popular hobby among folks who love the outdoors. It’s a great way to spend the off-season and will help to keep you in shape. Keeping your eyes on the ground while you’re hunting will often turn up evidence of past civilizations and people who lived and hunted the same ground thousands of years ago.

Getting Started

If searching for artifacts sounds interesting, artifact collector Les Hatton of Kentucky said some reading will help you become a better collector.

I always tell people to read through a good reference book or two to familiarize themselves with the types of artifacts that might be in their area — who made them and how old they may be,” he said. “One of the best out there is The Official Overstreet Indian Arrowheads Identification and Price Guide.”

Now on its 15th edition, the Overstreet guide is a hands-on reference to arrowhead types, manufacturing, grading, materials and values. The current edition contains 12,000 actual-size photographs covering hundreds of point types, and has information on how to grade, identify and catalog points. The guide covers points found throughout the United States, including Alaska.

(Don’t Miss: 15 Ways to Bag More Late Season Small Game)

Where to Look

Travis Hood is on a constant search for artifacts around his Indiana home.

My favorite places to look are plowed fields, high ground around 200 yards from the outer bends of waterways, and along creeks and streams — both on the bottom and on the shore, especially if there are washed-out steep creek banks, he said. I’ve even had good luck artifact hunting in areas where pigs are pastured because their constant rooting often turns up points.

If I am in a new area, my rule of thumb is to look around and ask myself, ‘Where would I live if I were here thousands of years ago?’ I’d want nearby access to fresh water, but be high enough and far enough away that my camp wouldn’t wash away in a flood or have constant standing water on the ground. The neat part about finding a good spot where a village once stood is that you might find artifacts from a civilization as current as a thousand years ago and some from as old as 10,000 years ago just feet from each other. Man’s basic needs didn’t change that much over 15,000 years, and a good spot to live is a good spot to live.

Hood and Hatton said old fire pits, often still visible as dark rings of charcoal and carbon in otherwise light-colored soil, are excellent places to find points and other artifacts.

The campfire is where they spent their time and where they did most of their point knapping, Hood said.

What to Look For

You know you’re in a good spot if you start finding small flakes of flint scattered around, especially if flint isn’t common in the area.

Once I start noticing flint flakes, called debitage, I start looking for whole or partial points,” Hood said. “While nearly everyone generally calls any knapped projectile an ‘arrowhead,’ most of the stuff you find was probably something else. It could be an ax or celt, a digging hoe, a blade, scraping tool or even a drill. Sure, they made arrowheads, but before bows were commonly used, they made atlatl points and lots of other tools. Some of the earliest stone tools were crude stone blades from the Clovis culture — made by people that lived in the desert Southwest between 11,000 and 13,000 years ago.”

Hatton said aging points gets easier with experience, but referencing guide books will help you figure out who made it and when. You might think the more intricate and detailed the point, the more modern it is, but that isn’t always the case.

It’s interesting, Hood said. Points and tools like those from the Clovis period started out crude and on the large side. Over time, new techniques and experience allowed the tool makers to turn out finer and more intricate points. What’s fascinating to me is that the finest points come from the middle period of stone tool making. Up until around 8,000 to 10,000 years ago, points were crude. Then, from 8,000 up to about 2,000 years ago, they got increasingly finer and more advanced. Then, starting a couple of thousand years ago, they regressed into cruder, less finished points. Maybe they were mass producing these points by then and needed to turn out a more disposable, quickly made point or something.

Besides stone tools and points, you might also find whole or pieces of stone pottery or beads, as well as bone tools, jewelry, clay pipes and other remnants of everyday life. If you are lucky enough to find something like that, keep looking. You are probably near a village or long-term camping spot, and there will likely be more artifacts in the area.

You Found Something, Now What?

So you went out looking and found a point. Now what? Hatton recommended taking a bit of time to record some details, especially if it’s a whole tool or point, or possibly a really valuable artifact.

Snap a quick photo of the artifact on the ground before you pick it up,” he said. “Note where the artifact was found, how deep in the soil and the coordinates or at least a nearby street address. All of this information will be helpful for you to figure out when and by whom the artifact was made, and having as much historical information, known as provenance, with your find as possible might make it more valuable as a collectable.”

Plus, keeping information on find locations will act as a guide for future searches.

Cleaning and Storage

When you locate a point or other artifact, what do you do with it?

The first thing to do is leave it alone, Hatton said. You can use a soft brush or toothbrush to remove loose soil from the point, but don’t get too rough with it, and don’t scrub it clean with soap and water or any other solvents. When experts look at a point under a magnifying glass or microscope, they are looking for certain mineral or soil deposits that help to verify the age. If those deposits are gone, it gets a lot harder to certify that a point is the real thing.

Although avid collectors might have buckets full of partial, unfinished or broken points, Hatton said whole points or anything else that might be valuable need to be stored carefully.

When you toss a stone point into a bucket with other points, they beat against one another to the point that they can chip or break, destroying their value,” he said. “The best way to store them is in a flat display case that you can set on a shelf or hang on a wall, or in flat boxes with layers of paper or cloth between the points to prevent them from touching one another.

Some of these points can be extremely valuable. I’ve personally witnessed one sell for $45,000, and I know of another rare Clovis point right now that is valued at over $100,000. You might find something that is worth a lot of money to the right collector, so treat them gently until you can have them looked at by an expert if you think you have something that might be valuable. That’s another area where the reference books come in handy. By comparing size, shape, flaking style, material and notch methods from your point to the reference books, you can get a pretty good idea how much a point is worth and whether or not you should get it appraised.

Keep it Legal

Before you head out to find your own artifacts, Hood and Hatton recommend familiarizing yourself with state and federal laws that apply to artifact hunting. As a rule, private lands require only the permission of the landowner to collect artifacts. But depending on the state, there might be exceptions, such as burial sites, caves and even certain deep stone overhangs that might have been used as religious sites.

When it comes to federally owned lands, removal of artifacts is generally not allowed. The Archeological Resources Protection Act of 1979, which protects any item of archeological interest that is more than 100 years old, and Title 36 of the U.S. Code of Federal Regulations, which deals with theft or destruction of public property, state that anyone found digging or removing artifacts from publicly owned lands can face fines, jail time or both.

On your next hunt, glance down at the ground from time to time. Chances are good that the same wildlife trail you’re watching has been used for thousands of years. Perhaps another hunter sat in a nearby location, doing the same thing. Maybe he or she left behind a sign that they were there.

Crossing an alligator’s path in your own yard is, to put it mildly, not a pleasant experience. If it has already happened to you, then you know what I’m talking about. It’s a potentially dangerous situation, especially when it comes unexpectedly.

According to a study from Duke University (source) large predators, like alligators, are moving into unexpected areas that were former hunting grounds until humans have been taken over. Therefore, protecting your home from those animals is more current than ever.

So, how can you keep alligators away? Here’s a quick answer:

The first step to keep alligators out of your yard and pool is to eliminate all the things that might attract them. As a second step, put up a sturdy fence. That will effectively keep alligators off your property. Installing a pool enclosure is also a good idea, however, beware of natural alligator repellents.

Read on for the details.

If you live in a climate where meeting an alligator (or a crocodile) is a real concern (like South Carolina, Florida, or Louisiana), it’s a reasonable decision to make the necessary precautions to keep them away from your house. In this article, I’ll show you the most effective ways you can keep alligators out of your house, pool, and yard, so it is one less thing you have to worry about.

How fast can alligators run on land? Can you outrun them? Find the answer in this article.

1. Eliminate Things that Attract Alligators

Alligators usually visit your yard for a reason: they look for food, water, and sometimes shelter. So the first thing you want to do is make your yard unattractive for them. For this reason, eliminate all kinds of food (including garbage) that alligators might have access to from your yard. Never store leftovers in the open air and don’t forget to clean up after barbecuing.

The next step is to eliminate clutter: if your yard is clean and tidy there’s less chance that an alligator (or snakes) will use it as a temporary shelter.

Let’s move on to water. Alligators love water, so pools are definitely attractive factors for them. Of course, preventing alligators from having access to your swimming pool is much harder to accomplish than eliminating clutter or garbage from the yard.

Using a standard pool cover will keep smaller animals out of your pool but it’s often useless against larger critters, like alligators (not to mention that if the pool is often used, it can be a tedious job to cover it every evening). You can find both solid and mesh safety pool covers on the market but they’re usually for winterizing purposes and not suitable for daily use.

A built-in automatic pool cover can provide real protection but it’s pretty expensive and sometimes it’s not easy to add it to an existing pool. However, if you’re just planning to build a pool, I definitely suggest you consider this option. All-Safe sells pretty reliable and durable automatic pool covers that are very comfortable to use.

If installing an automatic pool cover is not an option for you, just continue reading: there are other methods to keep alligators away from your pool and I’ll show you all of them.

2. Put Up a Sturdy Fence

Will a fence keep alligators out of your yard? Fencing, when done properly, is definitely one of the best ways to keep alligators off your property. However, if you’re about to install physical barriers, like a fence, it’s essential to do it the right way so that alligators can’t get through it.

First of all, you have to bury the fence at least 1.5-2 feet into the ground to prevent alligators from digging under it. You can improve security by installing concrete footers, although it’s not an absolute necessity. Next, you want to make sure they can’t climb over the fence. You may wonder, “Can alligators climb fences?” Just have a look at this video:

Alligators can climb chain link fences. Period. Some of them can climb a 5 feet high chain link fence without any major difficulty (however it’s not typical).

So how can you make a chain link fence alligator-proof? Height is important but as you can see, in itself, it doesn’t always stop alligators. The solution is to install a fence that is at least 5 feet high and the top of it is tilted outwards (at a 45-degree angle). It’s also called an overhanging fence. If some adventurous gators try to climb it and reach the top of the fence, they won’t be able to climb over it thanks to the angled part. You can reinforce the top of the fence with barbed wires.

Instead of a chain link fence, you can put up a wooden or aluminum (or concrete) fence to keep alligators away from your yard. They can’t climb an aluminum or a wooden fence with a smooth surface if it’s high enough because there’s nothing they can use to support their weight while climbing it.

If separating your pool is all you need and want the least obtrusive method, then consider installing a fence made of thick and durable safety glass. It will prevent gators from accessing your pool while nothing will block your view. Just keep in mind that glass fences require more maintenance (cleaning) than regular ones.

I highly suggest that you consider some kind of fencing if there’s a pond, lake, or canal close to your backyard. Those are the habitats where alligators spend most of their time and if you live close, it’s much more likely that you’ll cross each other’s path.

Electric Fences

Electric fences are another solution: they can deter and keep alligators off your property effectively. One of their major advantages over chain link, wooden, and aluminum fences is the faster and easier installation. Also, they’re much less obtrusive than standard fences. The disadvantage is obvious: if someone or your pet touches the fence, it won’t be a pleasant experience.

Usually, a single-strand electric fence can provide sufficient protection against gators (but it’s not necessarily effective against other predators). The strand should run just a few inches above the ground so that alligators can’t pass under without touching it.

Electric fences are not difficult to set up and their operation is usually inexpensive. The vast majority of energizers (the unit you should connect the wires to) are high-voltage, low-amperage, and low-impedance. This means that the current will flow through the wires in pulses and due to the low amperage it won’t cause any permanent harm to those animals and humans who encounter the fence.

Modern electric fences with an approved energizer are pretty safe to use: despite being rather popular items, electric fences account for less than one serious injury per year worldwide (source). However, don’t forget that we’re talking about electricity. Keep toddlers and children away from electric fences and make sure you place warning signs on the fence.

Before building any kind of physical barrier around your property, don’t forget to check if you need a building permit for it.

3. Install a Pool Enclosure

Pin

Installing a pool enclosure (also called a pool cage) is an effective way to keep alligators off your pool. While being one of the most expensive solutions, it has many advantages besides securing your pool from gators: it provides a certain degree of protection against harmful UV rays, helps you to keep the pool cleaner by keeping bugs and debris out, and extends your swim time by allowing you to use the pool independently from the weather.

On the other hand, a pool cage reduces the green areas and needs regular maintenance (like removing mildew from the enclosure). Also, a fence around your yard may give you a better experience as it gives you a greater sense of freedom and lets you enjoy your whole yard.

As always, make sure you check your local building code if you want a pool enclosure in your yard.

If you want to improve water quality and take pool safety to the next level, have a look at our article about the best alternatives to chlorine to avoid unpleasant odors, dangerous byproducts, skin and eye irritation, and other adverse effects.

4. Natural Alligator Repellents – Do They Work?

You won’t find any alligator repellent in the stores for a very simple reason: none are registered. However, you may have heard of different homemade repellents. One of the most popular methods is mixing humane urine with ammonia and spraying the mixture on the areas where alligators can enter your yard (practically around your property). The theory behind this method is that the smell of the mixture resembles the scent of predators so it may deter alligators.

There are two major disadvantages of using the combination of urine and ammonia as an alligator repellent. First, it smells terrible not only for alligators but for humans (and pets) too. Also, keep in mind that ammonia is a hazardous substance that can cause severe injuries in high concentrations.

Second, it’s not a reliable method: in certain cases, it may work but there’s no guarantee it will deter alligators. That’s why I don’t recommend using it, however, if you don’t mind the smell and don’t have kids and pets you can try it as a complementary method.

5. Alligator Traps

If you want to get rid of alligators, you may wonder if setting up a trap is a reasonable solution. First, it’s useful to know that if you want to use traps to catch alligators, you must have a permit because without it setting up an alligator trap is considered to be illegal. On the other hand, trapping alligators is not without danger: it does require expertise, experience, and proper equipment.

If there’s an alligator in your property or if you’re concerned about safety because gators appear more and more frequently in your neighborhood, call a professional. The state of Florida, for instance, has a program called SNAP (Statewide Nuisance Alligator Program) that was created to help you out when in trouble with alligators. You just have to call them, and they will dispatch one of their nuisance alligator trappers.

Putting It All Together

As you can see, when it comes to keeping alligators out of your yard and pool, there are only a few reliable methods that really improve safety. If keeping gators off your property is a top priority for you, then you can’t avoid installing some kind of sturdy physical barrier around your yard or pool.

Besides fencing, you always want to make sure there are no alligator attractants (like garbage, food, shelter) on your property. Water is essential for gators, so they love to visit homes with a pool. One of the best ways to prevent them from taking a bath in your pool is using an automatic pool cover. If it’s not feasible, you can install a pool enclosure (aka pool cage) or a fence around the pool area.

Every home is different, and sometimes you need personalized guidance. When in doubt, consult with a professional to find the best combination of the available solutions.

Photo: Flickr(Roger W)

Selecting the appropriate travel bow case for your next trip is an important step for flying with your archery equipment. When purchasing your case, be sure to take into consideration the type of bow that will fit the case (hunting compound, takedown recurve, etc.), and how you will be using the case. Will it be getting abuse in the bag of pickup truck on bumpy off-road trails, or have a comfy spot inside a minivan?

You will have to decide between a soft-side and hard-sided case. For air travel, what with the way baggage is treated these days, a hard-sided cases is usually the better way to go as it offers the ultimate protection for your bow and quiver, and typically offers options for lockability. Soft cases are more comfortable to handle, may not withstand the abuse that can be dished upon your bow case by the luggage handlers at the airport.

Here we have compiled a quick list of highly-rated travel bow cases. All of these cases have been highly recommended and are some of the best-selling bow cases to be found on the market today.

List of Recommended Items in This Article

Flambeau Outdoors 6461SC Archery Safeshot Compound Bow Case

Case Club Waterproof Parallel Limb Compound Bow Cas

Plano Mil Spec Fieldlocker Compound Bow Case

SKB 3I 4214 PL iSeries 4214 Parallel Limb Bow Case

Flambeau Outdoors 6461SC Safeshot Compound Bow Case

The Flambeau Outdoors 6461SC Archery Safeshot Compound Bow Case is well-built solid archery travel case, providing protection for 1 bow and up to 12 arrows in a rubber stacking system. We’re big fans of the structural pillars that prevent the case from getting crushed, offering additional protection for your bow.

A big feature of the Flambeau Safeshot are the multiple closing latches and multiple lock hasps for additional security, especially when travelling.

View the Flambeau Outdoors 6461SC Archery Safeshot Compound Bow Case on Amazon

SKB iSeries 3i 4214 PL Parallel Limb Bow Case

The SKB 3I 4214 PL iSeries 4214 Parallel Limb Bow Case offers a rugged ultra high-strength waterproof, dustproof, immersion-proof construction for maximum protection. This case features an automatic pressure equalization valve great for air travel, and multiple re-inforced padlock locations keep your bow secure.

The SKB is on the heavier side of these travel cases, but if spending $1600 on a bow, you want maximum protection when you travel. We appreciate that this case has built-in wheels for rolling around the airport with ease.

Buy the SKB 3I 4214 PL iSeries 4214 Parallel Limb Bow Case on Amazon

Plano Mil Spec Fieldlocker Compound Bow Case

Plano is a well-know name in the sportsman world, and the Plano Mil Spec Fieldlocker Compound Bow Case offers everything you would expect. The tight-fitting closure with dri-loc gasket keeps out water and dust, and multiple lock locations keep your bow secure.

The inline wheels glide well through the airport, and the customizable foam inside will keep your bow safely in place while travelling. The arrow storage on the upper flap offers convenience and quick easy access. Like the SKB iSeries, the Plano Fieldlocker also offers a built-in pressure release valve to equalize on the go with changes in altitude.

View the Plano Mil Spec Fieldlocker Compound Bow Case on Amazon

Case Club Waterproof Parallel Limb Compound Bow Case

The Case Club Waterproof Parallel Limb Compound Bow Case is a heavy-duty, air-tight padlockable case that fits your bow and 12 arrows (no quiver). Multiple padlock locations keep your bow latched and safe at home and on the go, and the silica gel canister inside absorbs any humidity that may be inside.

It is a fairly heavy case, but offers maximum protection for all of your gear. In-built wheels make it easy to get around the airport, and it’s crush-proof design will handle any abuse the luggage handlers can throw at it. There is a reason why this case has earned a 4.6/5 star rating on Amazon.

Shop the Case Club Waterproof Parallel Limb Compound Bow Case on Amazon

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Full Listing of Archery Equipment – Bows and Arrows Policies of 300+ Airlines