.22LR is not only great for plinking, but a great introductory round for new shooters.

I originally bought the Walther P22 to teach my wife to shoot, and after thousands of rounds, and plenty of new shooters…I can say that it is a near perfect training pistol.

It has tons of features found on more expensive guns and with relatively affordable .22LR ammo, the P22 can be a no-brainer buy. Read on to see if it fits your purpose!

Features and Specs

Key Specs

• Caliber: .22LR
• Capacity: 10+1 rounds
• Barrel Length: 3.42 in
• Overal Length: 6.3 in
• Width: 1.1 in
• Height: 4.5 in
• Weight: 17 oz
• Frame: Polymer
• Grips: Textured polymer

Key Features

• Interchangeable backstraps
• Windage adjustable rear sight
• Captured recoil spring
• Double action/single action trigger
• Threaded barrel
• Ambidextrous mag release and slide safety
• Has 2, 10 round mags
• Safety: manual external, fire pin block, mag disconnect
• MSRP: $339

More information can be found at Walther.

Pros & Cons

+Great training tool for higher caliber pistols+Can be easily threaded for a suppressor+Super light recoil+Comfortable grips+Ambidextrous controls

-Cheap feeling sights-Gets dirty easily but that’s .22LR

Background

The Walther P22 was one of the original semi-auto .22LR handguns and has been satisfying shooters since 2002.

The latest generation is now called the P22 Q and comes in a bunch of colors and variants.

We love how there’s now threaded versions and also versions that come with a laser.

Fit & Feel

The P22 is a solid handgun that has the fit, finish, and features of a much more expensive gun. A lighter polymer frame is the perfect match for the softer shooting .22LR caliber.

Barrel

Like most .22LR caliber handguns, the P22 has a fixed barrel design so takedown is a bit different than most full-sized guns, but the additional steps are straight forward.

A nice feature of this barrel nut is that an adapter is all that’s required to convert your barrel to a threaded barrel version if you live in a state that allows silencers.

Even though it is fixed barrel, cleaning the barrel is easy as it removes quickly with the supplied wrench, or if you choose, you can simply clean it while it remains attached to the frame.

Need some inspiration for a .22LR can? Check out our Best Rimfire Suppressors article.

Slide and Frame

While this is a budget-priced gun, it does come with some features not normally found on lower priced guns.

A serrated slide for better grip makes the slide more easier to work, even with sweaty or wet hands. Even the hammer has serrations for added grip!

A loaded chamber window isn’t what most would consider critical, but it is a nice feature that doesn’t get in the way and gives you a simple way of seeing what condition your firearm is in.

Under the slide, you’ll find an accessory rail to mount lasers and lights on making for some nice options.

The magazine release and safety levers are ambidextrous but the slide stop is still built for right-handed shooters.

I’m also not a huge fan of the safety lever on the actual slide, but it is engineered well, and easily accessed by my thumb without having to change my grip.

It also has a very positive feel so you know when you’ve placed the P22 in fire or safe mode.

Grip

Make no mistake about it, this gun is small, and therefore, the grip is also thin and small.

Finger grooves line the grip which is a nice texture; not too rough on contact but provides good grip.

Out of the box comes an additional back-strap to better fit larger/smaller hands.

Most of the time, a very thin profile gun means an uncomfortable grip, but there are two things working in the P22’s favor…

First, the P22 comes with ergonomic panels, and second, .22LR is a such a low recoil round that the thinner grip doesn’t create the hand fatigue a larger caliber might.

I find the grip is similar to the HK grip on the P30 or VP9 and it is straight up comfy. For my medium sized hands, I love how snug the gun feels.

What’s even better is that my wife, who has small hands, loves the feel of the grip and overall gun.

Trigger

The action is a DA/SA with a manual safety. You have the mechanical safety on the slide, but the P22 also includes a magazine disconnect safety which prevents the trigger from being pulled unless there is a magazine in the gun.

Newer P22s also have a safety de-cocking feature that allows you to safely drop the hammer using the manual safety.

The DA/SA action is predictable but some may find the 11lb DA pull undesirable, but most of the time you are shooting it in the light 4lb SA stage.

Sights

For me, the only thing that feels “cheap” on the gun is the fact that it comes with what dot polymer sights. While this is good enough for range use, they are no one’s favorite sighting system.

How Does It SHoot?

I have never had an issue shooting different ammo types in the P22, but I have seen that a lot of P22 users claim that their handgun is picky on ammo.

Most agree that higher powered rounds don’t have issues.

Federal ammo is the ammo I consistently run through my 22lr guns and I have always had great success.

Yes, there have been some rounds that stove-pipe or FTE, but I think that is to be expected in any 22lr gun.

I feed by P22 a steady diet of 36 grain Federal, 40 grain Federal Target, and 40 grain CCI.

Sub-sonic ammo will definitely be unpredictable as it the right might not have enough power to cycle the slide.

Keeping the gun clean is definitely important in keeping jams to a minimum. I try to clean my P22 frequently, especially the feed ramp and slide rails.

The P22 magazines are metal but pretty thin. Don’t expect these to stand up to too much abuse – thankfully, extra mags won’t break the bank.

Accuracy

My view of .22LR ammo changed after I took my first Appleseed rifle marksmanship clinic. While this doesn’t have anything to do with the P22, it does have everything to do with the round it shoots.

I showed up to the Appleseed clinic with my stock Ruger 10/22 (with a trigger upgrade) and bulk Federal ball ammo (not match, not high velocity). 1” Targets were set back 25 yards and was told to put 5 rounds inside the target with iron sights.

After balking and then realizing they were serious, I definitely cried some internal tears. But by the end of the clinic, not only was I able to do this (shooting prone), but I left with complete confidence in the accuracy of the .22LR round.

With the P22, it is accurate enough to make shooting enjoyable. We are not taking it to target competitions, but making my steel silhouettes ring is easy and a ton of fun.

I would estimate it at 2MOA if you’re doing your thing.

My wife, who doesn’t shoot nearly as much as I do, is able to comfortably put shots on target. This is due to several factors, which include grip comfort, the light weight of the gun, and the lack of recoil and sound.

Recoil

Anyone who has shot .22LR knows that the recoil is minimum.

Even in higher velocity rounds, it is still extremely manageable, making follow-up shots easy and accurate, especially since subsequent shots are single action with the lighter trigger pull.

What Sets It Apart?

For a while the P22 was the go-to semi-auto .22LR pistol out there. Now you have some competition with the Glock 44, Taurus TX-22, and the Sig Sauer P322.

Though the TX-22 and Sig Sauer hold more rounds, the P22 can still hold its own based on ergonomics and reliability.

Takedown for cleaning, since you’ll be doing a lot of it, is easy with this tutorial:

By The Numbers

Ergonomics 4/5

The P22 is extremely comfortable, offering some customization of the rear grip panel. With a thin gun width, it is very comfortable to hold with both hands. All of the functions of the handgun (safety, magazine release, slide stop, trigger) are easy to manipulate and many are ambi.

Accuracy 4/5

For having a fun day at the range, it does it perfectly. There is a target barrel that can be purchased which is a longer 5” barrel, but the shorter 3.42” barrel is plenty accurate for plinking.

Reliability 4/5

.22LR handguns get dirty, and it is true that these P22s need to be kept clean (like any other .22LR handgun). If you allow it to get dirty, you may begin to experience issues. I am notorious for not cleaning my guns often and I do notice it with my P22, mostly because of how dirty .22LR ammo is.

Looks 5/5

For a .22LR, I think the P22 looks the best. Besides the fact that it is a small gun, it looks impressive. You can get the P22 in a variety of colors/configurations.

I love the military color scheme on my P22! The serrations on the slide with the Walther marking looks sharp with the grip stippling an attractive functional and beautiful addition as well.

Upgrades: 4/5

There isn’t a huge selection of upgrade parts but there is a decent amount, most of them made or sold by most retailers. Having an accessory rail means that you can fit lights and lasers (or knives) on the end of the handgun

Price/Value 5/5

The price is hard to beat! A fraction the cost of larger caliber handguns, the P22 is affordable, allowing you to invest your money into ammo and accessories. For the features it has, I believe it to be one of the best values on the market.

Overall 4/5

I love the P22! There is something special about this lightweight, feature-packed gun. My friends love to shoot it and many have made their own P22 purchase after shooting mine.

It is so much fun to shoot and is great to teach friends how to shoot. Walther hit a home run with this gun and jammed something amazing into a perfect little pistol.

Upgrades

You’ve got a rail up front so you can always add a light…our favorite go-to is the TLR-1 HL series.

And like we mentioned above…if you want to suppress the P22 all you need is an adapter kit.

And you can always do with extra mags with all the lead you’ll be slinging downrange.

Verdict

This Walther P22 is just plain fun. How else can you send thousands of rounds down range without worrying about ammo cost?

The best part is not having to compromise comfort or features for that cheap and fun range experience.

I can say from experience that the P22 is pure gold with plenty of features, accuracy, and comfort!

How do you like your P22? Got another go-to 22LR plinker pistol that you love? Let us know in the comments! If you’re ready for a rifle to go with your pistol, take a look at the Best .22LR Pistols!

By Yamil Sued

The 10mm Auto is an undeniably powerful round, born in the mid-1980s from disappointment with the perceived inadequate performance of the 9mm. The cartridge was designed from the ground up to have immense stopping power, and it would prove itself to be a capable performer in both self-defense and hunting applications.

Testing the Perception

But how powerful is it, exactly? We all hear about how terrific the 10mm is, but what if we perform a 10mm gel test to see what kind of penetration and expansion we can expect?

I decided to do just that, taking a Springfield Armory Range Officer Elite Operator 10mm 1911 and running three different full power 10mm loads through it and into ballistic gelatin. Check out my video above to see how it all did on the range.

For this 10mm ammo comparison, I selected three loads, all with bullets weighing 200 grains. These loads covered both high-performance 10mm self defense ammo as well as basic range ammunition. I tested Federal Personal Defense HST, Speer Gold Dot Personal Protection Gold Dot Hollowpoint, and CCI Blazer FMJ range ammunition. Both of the full power personal protection loads used proven hollowpoint bullet designs while the range load used a 10mm FMJ projectile.

10mm Ballistics Performance

I set up a 32″-deep batch of ballistic gelatin and set about running all three loads through the RO Elite Operator 10mm. I was very impressed with the performance of all three loads and found that the 10mm does really push out some power.

Hollow Point vs. FMJ in Ballistics Gel

When testing 10mm penetration, both the Speer and Federal drove to roughly 18″ deep in the gelatin (within 1″ of each other), and expanded very nicely. These are both very powerful and effective rounds.

With the Blazer load, the FMJ punched clean through all 32″ of the gelatin, and impacted heavily on the safety berm behind it.

Excessive penetration is generally not preferred for defensive ammunition. While FMJ loads are great for paper targets, they simply do not expand in an attacker and will generally overpenetrate as this 10mm gel test shows.

I also chronographed all three 200-gr. loads to see how they performed. The Federal HST came in at an average of 1,130 fps, the Speer Gold Dot at 1,100 fps, and the Blazer ammo at 1,030 fps.

Conclusion

My test was intended to show 10mm ammunition performance and penetration, both full power self defense ammo and FMJ target ammunition.

I think that the results speak for themselves — the 10mm is an undeniably powerful round, and one that clearly will excel in both a hunting and self-defense role.

Editor’s Note: Please be sure to check out the new The Armory Life forum, where you can comment about our daily articles, as well as just talk guns and gear. Click the “Go To Forum Thread” link below to jump in!

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Featured in this video

Some years back, I was invited to hunt rabbits with a group of dedicated houndsmen who loved to run (and shoot) rabbits with their beagles. The day had been a relative success with our group scoring on about 18 rabbits for the day. For my personal efforts, I had managed to pull the trigger on a small number of the critters, missing a couple and accounting for a few in the final bag. The hunt had reminded me how enjoyable a small-game hunt can be—no stressed strategizing to score on the biggest racked trophy around or overly tactical effort like calling a longbeard to the gun—just trying to nab game as it appeared for the sake of shooting and adding to the bag limit. The whole experience left me wanting more.

The problem was, I didn’t have a pack of beagles. But I knew some places where I had frequently seen rabbits, both on my farm and my brother’s, so I decided to set off for some brush with a shotgun stoked with No. 6s draped across the crook of my arm. The results were surprising. While I didn’t bag as many rabbits on that first solo effort due to some tricky shooting, I scared up a lot more than I had expected. The effort opened up a new world of hunting to me. With rabbit season where I live running well into February, long after most other seasons have closed, it’s a great opportunity to grab another day or two of time outdoors and, with a little effort, enjoy a bit of exercise that typically results in more meat for stews or to accompany a side dish of risotto.

Whether you’re hunting solo or with a buddy or two, hunting rabbits without hounds is a relatively simple affair with good odds for success. Rabbits are abundant anywhere wild cover is available, meaning you are almost certain to find game. Here’s how to score on your own rabbit adventures.

Find ‘Em FirstRabbits don’t travel far between cover and food so one of the best places to find them is in thick, brushy areas right next to where they like to eat—open grassy areas with clovers and broadleaf weeds, or crop fields that have been planted in soybeans, peanuts, wheat, alfalfa and the like. Brushy patches of blackberries, honeysuckle, blueberry and other viney, tangled brush provide great cover for animals where they can feed without fear of being nabbed by avian predators. Brushy ditches and fencerows through fields, as well as brush piles and windrows, also provide excellent havens.

In the deep winter chill, brushy areas on south-facing slopes (or in flat-land the side of cover facing the sun) can be more productive, as rabbits will slip to the edge of their hideout and sun themselves for warmth.

In many areas where deer hunters have worked to establish lush, green plots to attract whitetails, you’ll find the overgrown edges bordering these deer magnets will also harbor a nice population of bunnies. The brushier the borders around these open areas, the better. Rabbits will also grow thick in overgrown clearcuts that have repopulated with small saplings that provide abundant twigs and bark for rabbits to chew on.

Gearing UpIt doesn’t take much to pull off a rabbit hunt, but a few key items will certainly make it more successful and comfortable for you. Some guys are content to sit at field edges at dawn or dusk, looking to snipe a few targets as they appear to feed, and for that, a precision-scoped .22 is ideal. This is a fine way to hunt them that will definitely produce, but after a season of sitting in a stand for whitetails, I personally don’t want to sit and wait for rabbits. I want to go after them and kick them up, which means using the scattergun. A 12-gauge remains the most versatile game gun for any sportsman, and without a doubt, serves the rabbit hunter ably, but I prefer a lighter, more compact 20-gauge for tromping brush and swinging in cover. The smaller, well-pointed charge, loaded with No. 6 shot is more than ample for rabbits.

Because you will likely be traipsing through thick, briar-laced cover to kick these creatures into the open, your legs will take some abuse. For this, a good pair of vinyl-faced brush pants or heavy chaps are a must, along with light, but durable boots with leather or Cordura uppers for walking. I like an old-style canvas upland game jacket too, with a lined nylon game pouch built into the rear for toting a brace as you collect the small treasures. A small backpack can also do the trick for keeping your hands free for more shooting.

When hunting with others, safety orange vests and/or hats are a really good idea, too, since hunters are generally obscured by the thick cover in which rabbits are found, yet are in close proximity to each other while hunting them.

Walk ‘Em UpMy favorite and most productive hunts are in spots where the brush is no more than waist-high and surrounded by relatively open ground that a bolting rabbit has to cross for an exposed shot. With your shotgun at the ready, simply plunge in and slowly walk a zigzag pattern—keeping your eyes alert for flashes of brown—and listen for scurrying ahead of you. Pause frequently, creating an almost herky-jerky approach that will leave rabbits guessing which way you are about to go and making them nervous. A nervous rabbit is one ready to move. I like to walk slowly for about 10 to 15 paces and then pause 20 to 30 seconds before moving on. This seems to work well. When working overgrown cutovers, look for areas that are no more than two to three years old. More than that, and they will be so grown up that while they’ll harbor plenty of rabbits, seeing and shooting them may be next to impossible.

A hunter can walk plenty of rabbit-rich brush, but if it is so thick he can’t see more than a few feet in front of him, then it will be a lot of wasted effort. Like the smaller patches of brush and tangles of honeysuckle and briars I prefer to hit, other good spots that offer the perfect blend between hideout and visibility include fencerows and ditches in fields as well as brush piles pushed up at the edge of open woods. Whether hunting rabbits or other species, I try to note these high-production spots throughout the season and return to them time and again when hunting for rabbits.

If hunting with partners, take turns with one guy working brush in this manner, while the others post slightly ahead, repositioning quietly and frequently as you progress. When hunting in pairs, hunters can also flank each other, standing 15 to 20 yards apart depending on the amount of brush they’re working, and alternate walking ahead of each other and pausing.

Hunting rabbits is really no more difficult than that—its simplicity in approach and execution, a big part of what makes it so much fun.

How To Choose The Right Mobile Ham Radio?

Durability, Build Standards and Build Quality

You don’t want your ham radio to die on you when you rely on it the most, which is why durability is one of the most important things to consider when you are picking out a radio.

Some ham radios designed for mobile use, similar to handheld ham radios are built and tested according to strict military standards for shockproofing, waterproofing, and even mold. These are the best ham radios for you if you like to drive your Jeep through rocky and muddy roads.

Even if you are buying a radio for your base station or home setup, you should still opt for something that is built well. These units might not be waterproofed or encased in steel, but the quality of the buttons and knobs should be good enough to withstand frequent use.

Transmission Power Output

Many amateur radio users make the mistake of prioritizing high-power ham radios for their vehicles. After all, the higher the transmission power, the further it transmits, right?

While this is technically true, it shouldn’t be the only thing you look for when you are in the market for mobile radio. The transmission power you need depends on the type of communication you want to engage in.There is no sense in choosing a powerful 50 watts ham radio if you want to use your radio as an emergency unit – a normal two-way radio or VHF/UHF radio of up to 5W would suffice. But if you want to connect with other amateur radio operators all over the world, you would want a mobile radio that offers at least 25-50 watts of power.

At any rate, you should buy a radio that is compatible with an external antenna. This gives you the option to expand your coverage when you need it the most.

User-friendly And Intuitive Menu Setup & Operation

Ease of use is a must when choosing the best mobile ham radio. You don’t want to be distracted by scrolling through menu options when you are driving.

Well-designed ham radios utilize the hand mic for better one-handed control. These designs often include programmable buttons, frequency toggles, and a keypad. Moreover, some radios have a 180 degrees rotatable screen for easy monitoring.

When it comes to menu design, we would recommend choosing a radio that uses a streamlined menu system. Besides being more convenient, a bloated menu can also be frustrating and overwhelming.

Weight, Size And Phisical Factors

You can mount most radios in your dash with a mounting bracket. However, as they tend to get very hot, you might have to consider an alternate spot for your radio if you drive all day. Besides that, getting a bulky and heavy radio can also hamper your efforts to move it around.

Scan Function And Memory Storage

Scan function and memory storage allow you to scan available frequencies and save any channels that you like.

It is much easier to have a one-click scanning feature since you would most likely be driving when you use a mobile ham radio. Typically, you get about 200 slots in your channel storage, which is more than enough for most people.

Newer models offer more robust and convenient saving features. For example, some save your scanning preference so you don’t have to set it up again if your radio reboots. Some save your settings, like volume control and squelch, along with the frequency and channel names.

By TJ Maglio

There are very few baits responsible for more big bass, big limits, and tournament wins than the 5-inch Senko. What Gary created out of a ballpoint pen tube didn’t just change the soft plastics game, it changed bass fishing altogether.

How many bass fishermen catch their first bass on a Senko each year? And if you’ve ever got a true rookie in the boat with you, what’s the first thing you rig up for them?

A Senko no doubt.

The most brilliant thing about Senkos is their versatility. They are equally effective in the hands of top tour pros or the greenest of the green; and whether you’re fishing a mountain lake; lowland reservoir, tidal river, or a farm pond, you’re going to get bit.

Here’s the part where you may be thinking “Yeah; Senkos catch fish, tell me something new…”

What you may not know is that despite the Senko’s pedigree, one of the most common questions anglers still ask us all these years later is “what’s the best way to rig a Senko?”

We all know the truth.

There’s no wrong way to rig a Senko. You can use it cut in half on the back of a tiny Ned head or punch it through a thick mat of hyacinth behind a 2-ounce sinker. It really doesn’t matter much; as long as it’s in the water the bass eat it.

Since the vast majority of anglers realize that; I suspect the real question they are getting at is not “what’s the best way” but rather “how should I rig it?” Meaning what hook, line, rod, reel, etc.

A great way to solve questions like this is to sample a group of experts on the topic; listen to their opinions and then see where you fall. Which is exactly what we wanted to do. We decided to reach out to four of the Yamamoto Tour pros know specifically for their Senko prowess (Brent Ehrler, Larry Nixon, Jimmy Reese, and Jay Yelas); and ask them to break down how they specifically rig Senkos in a couple of the most popular ways (Texas Rigged and Wacky/Neko), so you can get a variety of details on the specifics of what terminal tackle, line, rods, and reels they use to catch fish across the country.

Hopefully these setups will help you narrow down your options as you search for the perfect setup for the way YOU fish!

Texas Rig

Brent Ehrler

Rig: 4/0 Gamakatsu Offset Round Bend, 16-pound Sunline FC Sniper fluorocarbon

Rod/Reel: Daiwa Tatula Elite MPS 7’3”, Daiwa Tatula Elite Reel (7.3:1)

Notes: Brent’s go-to Texas rig is actually weighted, which he likes as it shows the fish something a little different. “That little sinker really changes the fall of the 5-inch Senko. It’s still subtle but it has a really nice spiral on the fall; which bass don’t see a lot.”

Jimmy Reese

Rig: 5/0 Gamakatsu EWG (standard gauge), 12-pound Yo Zuri Fluorocarbon

Rod/Reel: Douglas Rods 7’2” Medium Rod LRS724F, Daiwa Tatula 150 (7.3:1)

Notes: The key to Reese’s Texas rig setup is versatility; and he keeps it on the deck pretty much all the time. “You can throw that thing up against a rock, dock, piece of wood, whatever you see – you can just pick things apart with it; and you can go pretty much anywhere around the country with that setup and go down the bank and catch fish.”

Jay Yelas

Rig: 5/0 Gamakatsu Superline EWG (heavy gauge), 15-pound Strike King Tour Grade Fluorocarbon

Rod/Reel: Lew’s Custom Speed Stick 7’ MH, Team Lew’s Hyper Mag Speed Spool (8.3:1)

Notes: Having a high-gear ratio reel is critical to Yelas with a Texas rig. “Particularly in shallow water; big bass will grab that Senko and just take off. If you can’t reel fast enough to catch up to it, you’re never going to get a good hook into it.”

Larry Nixon

Rig: 4/0 Gamakatsu EWG (standard gauge), 10-pound Sunline FC Sniper fluorocarbon

Rod/Reel: Dobyns 7’ Champion XP 705 Casting rod, Bass Pro Shops Johnny Morris Series (7.1:1)

Notes: Patience is the key when Texas rigging a 5-inch Senko says Arkansas legend Nixon. “Most of the time I fish a Texas rig weightless; and I’ve caught about a gazillion fish doing it. Just be patient and let the bait do its thing. If you’re not getting Senko bites; you very well could be fishing it too fast. Slow down and you’ll get bit.”

Wacky/Neko

The woods and wild places are drawing people to them. A weekend in the woods can wash away the stain of florescent lighting and it can reset your circadian rhythm. It seems that most of us understand the damage that our hyper convenient, over digitized, and sedentary lifestyle is doing to us.

More people are seeking the “tonic of the wilderness” as Thoreau called it.

Making wilderness shelter is something that calls to people on these wild adventures. So, let’s talk about how you can make the most fundamental and one of the most effective wilderness shelters of them all. I am talking about the lean-to shelter.

The Importance of Wilderness Shelter

What is the main reason for learning to build these wilderness shelters? Aside from just the fun of building your own fort out in the woods, there is a very important reason for studying and learning to make wilderness shelter.

This is your answer to needing shelter in a wilderness survival situation. When you need to get out of the elements and you need to affect your core body temperature a good shelter can capture your body heat and combined with fire could even save your life!

The lean-to can be a quick answer to that wilderness shelter to help you survive a wilderness emergency.

What is a Lean To Shelter?

It is called a lean-to shelter because the main wall of the shelter leans on a ridge pole. The leaning wall does double duty to protect you from the weather that could be falling above you and also the wind coming from behind. This leaning wall also traps some of your heat and holds it in your shelter.

Be sure you choose a nice flat area to build your shelter and it would help if you set up near some water sources to assure you can stay hydrated.

These shelters are easy to build and require minimal materials. This is why they are so popular when it comes to building a shelter for wilderness survival.

Gear Needed to Build a Lean To Shelter

The gear you need to build your lean-to shelter is minimal but if you have the right tools it will make an easy job even simpler.

• Folding Saw
• Cordage
• Tarp
• Survival Knife

Lean To Between Trees

The most common build for the lean-to shelter is between two trees. The hardest part about this build is finding the two trees to place the shelter between.

You are looking for 2 sturdy trees that are about 7 feet apart from one another. Pay attention to the land between those two trees. The more level the ground the better.

Now you are going to find yourself a nice sturdy ridge pole that is about 8 feet long. I find that cutting down some greenwood is best for this. I usually seek out some young American Holly. It’s strong wood and will be nice and sturdy as a ridge pole. Cut yourself an 8-foot ridge pole.

Set the ridgepole up no more than 4 feet tall. Lash the ridge pole three times with paracord. If you have 2 people this process is a lot easier. If not you can still pull it off.

With the same cord lash three times to the tree. Then three more to one side of the ridge pole and again three lashes around the tree. I run the remaining cordage between the tree and the pole warping to create tension. Tie your cordage off and move to the next side of the ridge pole.

Repeat the process on the opposite side of the pole and the second tree.

With your ridge pole in place, you can start looking for green branches to start leaning on the shelter. Green pine branches are great for this and will become the ribs of your shelter. Lean them on the ridge pole at about a 45-degree angle.

Once you achieve a collection of these branches all lined up then you can place pine boughs or just use a tarp to finish off the shelter.

Attach the tarp first at the ridge pole. You can tie it down to the trees or the ridge pole on either side. Then pull it tight and stake it to the ground.

If you have a nice big tarp then you might even want to create a simple A-frame shelter for yourself.

Detached Lean To

The detached lean-to shelter is built on the very same principle but your ridge pole is not lashed to trees. This is a good shelter to know how to build if you are in sparse forests. It can be a challenge to find trees that are set apart in just the right manner with the right ground underneath them.

In this case, you can create a couple strong tripods. You might think that building a tripod is only for smoking meats or cooking over a fire but the tripod can become the basis for your entire shelter. Look for some nice thick pine branches. You are going to need 6 of these in total.

To create your simple tripod you are going to lash the first branch three times with paracord, grab the next branch and continue with the paracord by lashing this next one. Then finally lash three times on the last branch and this will connect them all. The cordage will also keep the tripod nice and snug.

If you want you can create your tripod and then wrap more cordage around where all the sticks meet.

When you have created two similar-sized tripods you are going to place your ridge pole on top of both tripods and build your lean-to shelter normally.

Inside the Lean To

No matter what lean-to you have constructed you can also consider the inside of the shelter and how you would like to sit and sleep and store your gear.

You can make smaller lean-tos but I like to have room to store gear and get things out of the rain if need be. You can scoop up pine needles and put your sleeping pad and bag on top of them. This will add some cushion beneath you and also keep you from losing lots of heat to the hard ground through convection.

Some people will cut logs and create a wood floor in the bottom of their lean-to shelter. It is also nice to shove those pine needles to the back of the shelter to trap more of your heat inside the shelter. Pine boughs can make a nice bed, too.

You can customize this quick emergency shelter how you see fit.

Warm and Dry Through the Night

The lean-to wilderness survival shelter is a simple design that every woodsman should try to assemble. If you have the right gear and a little knowledge you can set yourself up with a comfortable shelter that will keep you warm and dry through the night.

Wilderness survival shelters could be the difference between a cold night or hypothermia if you find yourself in a wilderness survival emergency.

Disclosure: We may get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

Among the strongest and most reliable ATVs ever produced is the Kawasaki Prairie 650. This mean machine, launched in 2002, dominated the off-roading scene and introduced many firsts to the public – defining the sport-utility sub-segment in the process. It was one of the most successful off-road vehicles of its time, earning the “Design and Engineering Award” in Popular Mechanics and being highly regarded by ATV magazines and publications.

The Kawasaki Prairie 650 goes down in ATV history as the world’s first mass-produced quad to sport a V-Twin power mill. Apart from its monstrous 633-cm3 engine, this award-winning 4×4 boasts a variable limited-slip front differential, impressive powerband, and industry-leading features.

One of Team Green’s breakthrough machines, the Kawasaki Prairie 650, started a whole new era of high-standard behemoths – its massive torque making it a force to be reckoned with (literally!). No wonder it has inspired the creation of other iconic Kawasaki quads. Read on and learn more about the capabilities and evolution of this off-road legend.

The King of Firsts

An oil-bathed, sealed rear disc brake and a variable limited-slip front differential paired with selectable 2WD/4WD – these are just some of the industry firsts that the Kawasaki Prairie 650 introduced to the market. These features may be puny for some (in today’s standards). But two decades ago, only a handful of well-engineered ORVs had these luxuries – and the lime-green wheeler was one of them.

Initially conceptualized as a utility quad, the Prairie soon morphed into a sport-utility four-wheeler to cater to the increasing number of riders gravitating toward dual-purpose, big-bore machines.

Launched as a 650-class ATV, the Kawasaki Prairie 650 soon upgraded to a 697-cm3 power mill in 2004. The Prairie left the Brute Force lineup to carry on the slightly smaller engine displacement for a little while – as the said series eventually released the Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4x4i five years after.

Whether it be the 650- or 700-class trim, both big-bore machines had dual carbs and shared almost similar vehicle dimensions. Undoubtedly, this uncanny resemblance between the two is why most consumers confuse one with the other.

Performance

This high-performance wheeler is unquestionably bulletproof. However, tight wooded trails and rough terrain are not the most suitable for this big-bore machine. The topography adversely affects the performance of its suspension system. In these environments, the Prairie falls behind its counterparts in soaking up bumps and ripples. Owners can always equip their 4x4s with Rear Shocks.

But since the front suspension is non-adjustable, it would be challenging for the quad’s suspension system to be fully optimized.

Conversely, the four-wheeler can soar through straight-line acceleration on grass tracks and straightaways. Steep engine-draining trails and mountains also become playgrounds for this beast – thanks to its differential lock, twin-carburetor setup, and unrelenting power.

In truth, the Kawasaki Prairie 650 can slice through these settings’ most technical portions with ease – but in the hands of a highly-skilled driver.

Kawasaki Prairie 650 Specs & Features

Engine

Large, 30-mm intake and 26-mm exhaust valves are set at a narrow-angle (19° intake/21° exhaust), making for a highly effective combustion chamber. A high-quality foam air filter and dual Keihin CVKR-D32 downdraft carburetors lend to the vehicle’s fuel efficiency and smooth throttle responsiveness. (TIP: When cleaning the fuel tank, never use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to avoid potential dangers of fire or explosion.)

Drivetrain

A dual-range automatic KAPS (Kawasaki Automatic Powerdrive System) CVT transmission, inclusive of the Kawasaki Engine Brake Control system and a reverse, handle the shifting. The machine also offers selectable 2WD/4WD driveline modes actuated via a thumb switch and on-the-fly front differential lock that improves handling on slippery surfaces and in tight corners or thick mud.

Ignition

The KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release), paired with an electric-recoil starting system, makes starting the Prairie 650 a breeze. A cigarette-style DC outlet at the handlebar base and a trailer-type connector at the rear provide quick, accessible power for electronic accessories.

At some point, you would need to swap out stock batteries. If so, a Kepworth KP14-BS 12V LiFePO4 Battery (view on Amazon) would be a good replacement – it is leak-proof and has a low self-discharge rate.

Tires & Brakes

Dual front hydraulic disc brakes fitted with dual-piston calipers and enclosed oil-bathed multi-disc rear disc brakes provide stopping power. This brake system mates to a Kawasaki-exclusive Engine Brake Control system that electronically observes ground speed and uses engine compression to slow the quad down.

Suspension

Minimal differences can be observed between the Prairie 360 and this machine’s suspension components since the former is an exact carbon-copy of the latter. The caster angle and rear suspension wheel travel were improved a bit, while the rest remained unchanged.

Dimensions

While the Prairie 650 weighs the same as its smaller-displacement sibling, this 4×4 has a larger trailer weight and carrier capacity. The curb weight is 294.06 Kg/648.3 lbs – merely 5.0 lbs more than the Brute Force 650.

Exterior

Unlike Team Green’s 300-class four-wheelers, the Prairie 650 did not fall short on instrumentation. A multi-function meter comes standard across all trims and year models. Adjustable footpegs atop full footboards make long trail rides enjoyable. The saddle comfortably sits taller riders. Plus, the machine’s tubular space frame allows owners to personalize their wheelers with aftermarket Kawasaki Prairie 650 parts and accessories.

K-EBC™ (Kawasaki Engine Brake Control)

The K-EBC™ system enhances the quad’s brake systems with the engine’s additional braking force. Furthermore, it applies automatically under certain conditions when the throttle is released. This feature is ideal for use when descending steep declines, becoming an added safety measure that keeps the speed of the Prairie safe regardless of the type of terrain, rider skill level, or operating conditions.

However, note that the K-EBC™ is best as a supplemental braking system at low speeds (between 3-20 km/h) and does not work in reverse.

Kawasaki Prairie 650 Pricing

The table below shows the list price of all Kawasaki Prairie 650- and 700-cc models and trims released from 2002 to 2006 (Source: Nada Guides):

Surprisingly, auction listings are slightly higher than retail pricing and range from $775 to $4,510. Resale units are mostly 2002-2003 models – vehicle conditions vary depending on the year, trim, and upkeep done by the previous owner. Typically, pre-loved Prairies have 8,000 miles, 430 to < 1,900 hours, and with no title.

Rare finds, on the other hand, are freshly overhauled and come with a recovery winch like Mile Marker 77-53120W Premium Sealed Electric Winch (view on Amazon) or aftermarket wheels/tires. If you want to be guaranteed a Prairie in near-mint condition, be prepared to spend at least $2,800 for a secondhand unit.

Known Issues of the Prairie 650

The Kawasaki Prairie 650 4×4’s service manual contains troubleshooting steps that would solve most of its common problems. But for more persistent challenges, you need to visit forums and other Kawie community sites to get specifics on how to resolve them. Here are some of the machine’s more prevalent issues and their corresponding fixes:

Cold-starting Hiccups

If the Kawasaki Prairie 650 quads had one major setback, that would be a specific functionality of its monstrous V-Twin engine. This powerplant retards the vehicle’s ignition until it reaches a certain RPM, leading to a difficult engine startup – particularly on a cold February morning.

If you are a long-time Prairie owner, you would know that the choke is used more frequently during cold weather. Otherwise, you may want to check if the under-seat valve is turned on or if there is any obstruction in the petcock valve, causing possible fuel starvation.

Faulty K-EBC™ and 2WD/4WD Actuators

The engine brake system and driveline actuators of the Prairie 650 are quite an upset for Kawie riders, as they are not known for their durability. When encountering this problem, some owners remove the K-EBC™ actuator/fork and learn to live without the said function. Others choose to remove the 2WD/4WD actuator, modifying it to have a choke cable setup to run manually.

However, addressing the issue entails more than just pinning the blame on the actuator/controller alone. Defective electrical components could also cause the problem, such as:

• Shorted/Open speed sensor
• Forward/Reverse gear detecting a shorted/open sensor
• Controller (10 Amp) fuse blown
• Disconnected battery

Leaking Oil Seals

Engine and front/rear differential oil seals on the Kawasaki Prairie 650 tend to leak. Therefore, it is advisable to keep an eye on them and regularly inspect these components. Oil seal lips that are misshapen, discolored, or hardened indicate rubber deterioration and warrant immediate replacement. The same goes for oil seals that are visibly damaged or dried out.

Veteran owners do not recommend jumping while in 4WD, as this also aggravates the leaking problem. It would also be wise to check other things like degraded valve gaskets, damaged driveshaft/axles, and oxidation on the shaft and other metal surfaces. Quads that have sat for a while are also more likely to have this problem than those frequently used and properly maintained.

Weak Choke Springs

First-year Prairie 650 carburetors had flimsy choke springs that caused gasoline to fill the engine when not in use. Similarly, post-2002 models had sticky choke plungers that resulted in poor idling. The permanent fix for this issue was to replace the stock choke springs with a later-model-year variant.

Turning off the petcock valve when the quad is not in use also helps, especially before trailering or storage (and for extended periods). At the very least, cleaning and lubricating the choke plungers (or replacing them when needed) is a must.

Other Problems

• MacPherson Strut springs are too soft for fast-paced riding.
• Airbox snorkel and CDI are too restrictive.
• Swingarm bearings and rear secondary clutch wear out prematurely.
• The fuse box connections are prone to corrosion.
• The stock radiator fan breaker (a.k.a. buss connector) tends to malfunction.
• Mounting bolts on the rocker arm shaft tend to loosen, potentially causing catastrophic damage to the motor’s top-end.

Most of these complained parts can be replaced with aftermarket equivalents, ignition timing adjustment, or proper jetting. Others are resolved or prevented through religious upkeep of the machine and avoiding over-the-top activities.

Do not worry – sport racing, serious mudding, and ripping through the dunes are not prohibited. But please, do these in moderation. And remember to clean your four-wheeler thoroughly after every ride.

About Kawasaki

Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. is a prominent institution in the ATV landscape and maker of industry-leading vehicles like the Kawasaki Prairie 650. The Japanese firm was founded in 1878 and traces its humble beginnings to being a part supplier for shipping businesses.

Since then, this world-renowned manufacturer has ventured into other transport industries and grown into massive production of transit, aerospace and energy systems, hydraulic machinery, motorcycles, off-road vehicles, side x sides, and personal watercraft.

Conclusion – Kawasaki Prairie 650 Review

One thing often overlooked about high-performance quads like the Kawasaki Prairie 650 is that they require a certain level of maintenance and care. What all riders must realize is top-caliber 4x4s are usually the most finicky. Therefore, flimsy parts or factory-assembly flaws are not always responsible for wear and tear. Driving conditions and not rider behavior have more of an adverse impact on the longevity of our vehicle.

All in all, this highly-acclaimed trail beast is a dream to ride. Its smooth but monstrous power delivery, low-range torque, well-designed chassis, and other best-engineered mechanisms only prove why present-day off-road icons took inspiration from this big-bore machine. If you want a four-wheeler that can conquer slow-crawling sections as well as high-altitude areas, then look no further than the hardworking and timeless Kawasaki Prairie 650.

Did you know that bears have some of the strongest bites in the animal kingdom? While they don’t exactly rank at the top in terms of overall strength, their jaws can pack a serious punch.

So, which subspecies top the bear bite force scale? Who’s managed to sink their teeth into the title of the most powerful jaw? Let’s take a closer look at the six main contenders to find out.

Strongest Bear Bite Force

Before we get into details, you need to understand the basic measurement used to determine an animal’s bite force. It’s usually expressed in PSI, or pounds per square inch. This refers to the amount of pressure that the animal can exert with their teeth.

To give you some perspective, the human jaw can generate about 200 PSI of pressure. But when it comes to bears, the numbers are a whole lot more impressive.

Next, we’ll list six subspecies with a strongest bite force.

Polar Bear Bite Force

The polar bear’s claim to fame is its massive size. And when you’re that big, it’s no surprise that you’ve got an equally a powerful bite. These apex predators can weigh up to 1600 pounds and measure over ten feet in length—perfectly matching a bite force of 1200 PSI.

They store fat in their bodies to help them withstand the cold weather and survive for extended periods without food. And this extra weight gives them added strength, allowing them to take down prey that is much larger than they are. When they’re not chomping down on seal meat, polar bears also enjoy munching on berries, roots, and seaweed.

Despite their imposing strength, polar bears are actually quite gentle creatures. They’re known to playfully wrestle with each other and even interact with humans on occasion. But don’t be fooled by their friendly demeanor—if you get on their bad side, they won’t hesitate to show you just how dominant they really are.

Grizzly Bear Bite Force

The grizzly bear is the next contender on the list. These massive animals are found across North America and can weigh up to 1500 pounds. And while they’re not quite as large as polar bears, they more than make up for it with their ferocious appetite. The bite force of a grizzly bear rounds out to 1160 PSI, making it one of the strongest in the animal kingdom.

These bears have a diet that consists mostly of meat, but they’re also known to eat nuts and roots. Their jaw is designed for crushing bones and flesh, which comes in handy when they’re taking down their prey. And while they might look slow and sluggish, they can actually run at the speed of up to 35 miles per hour—making them one of the fastest land animals on the continent.

Unlike polar bears, grizzlies are not known for their friendly demeanor. In fact, they’re one of the most feared animals in North America. And with good reason—when they’re angry or provoked, they can be absolutely ferocious and take no prisoners. In fact, they’re the most aggressive bear species out there and they’re responsible for the majority of bear-related human fatalities.

Brown Bear Bite Force

This is the type of bear you’re probably most familiar with—they’re often featured in children’s stories and movies. But while they might look cute and cuddly, brown bears are actually quite dangerous. They weigh between 600 and 1500 pounds and have a bite force of 975 PSI.

Brown bears are found throughout North America, Europe, and Asia. Their widespread habitat is due to their ability to adapt to a variety of climates and ecosystems. Their fur helps keep them warm in cold weather and their long claws are perfect for digging up food. Their diet mainly consists of vegetation, but they will also eat fish, small mammals, and carrion.

While brown bears are typically introverted and elusive creatures, they are fiercely protective of their cubs. If they feel like their young are in danger, they will attack—even if that means taking on a human. After all, a mother’s love knows no bounds. And that’s something we can all admire, even if we don’t want to get too close to these giant animals.

American Black Bear Bite Force

The American black bear is the smallest of the three main types of bears found in North America. But don’t let their size fool you—they can still pack a powerful bite. These bears typically weigh between 250 and 600 pounds and have a bite force of 970 PSI.

While they’re not quite as large as grizzlies or polar bears, they more than make up for it with their agility. They can climb trees, swim swiftly, and run up to 30 miles per hour. They’re mostly herbivores, but they will also eat meat on occasion. And their diet consists of a variety of items, including fruits, nuts, roots, and insects.

American black bears are generally shy and timid creatures, which means they rarely interact with humans. But if they’re startled or feel threatened, they can be aggressive and even dangerous. Unless you’re a trained professional, it’s best to stay away from these bears and admire them from a distance.

Asiatic Black Bear Bite Force

The Asiatic black bear is found throughout Asia and is the smallest of the three main types of bears. Their bodies are smaller and more compact than their American and grizzly cousins, with slightly longer claws. And while they might be small, they still have a powerful bite—their jaws boast a force of 650 PSI.

For the most part, Asiatic black bears are herbivores. They’ll munch on fruits, nuts, and leaves, with their sturdy jaws crushing through even the toughest of vegetation. They will also eat meat if they’re starving, but it’s not their preferred food. These bears are also excellent swimmers and climbers, which helps them escape predators and find food in hard-to-reach places.

In general, Asiatic black bears withdraw from human contact and avoid confrontation. Interactions with other animals are also rare, as these bears tend to be solitary creatures. They are, however, close to their own families—mothers will stay with their cubs for up to three years to ensure they’re safe and well-fed.

Giant Panda Bite Force

Next up is the bite force of a bear that’s more likely to make you smile than scream—the giant panda. These adorable creatures are found in the mountains of central China, in mostly forested and bamboo-covered terrain. And while their diet consists mainly of bamboo, they’re still capable of delivering a powerful bite. Their jaws boast a force of 212 PSI.

Their fur is thick and woolly, which helps protect them from the cold. Their bodies are stout and compact, with short legs that make them look quite clumsy. But don’t let their appearance fool you—giant pandas are excellent climbers and can even swim fairly well.

These bears are generally gentle giants. They don’t feel the need to be aggressive and are content to live a peaceful life in the bamboo forests of China. However, they are still wild animals and should be treated with caution. After all, a giant panda’s bite may not be as strong as some of the other bears on this list, but it’s still powerful enough to cause some serious damage.

Key Takeaways

All in all, the specifics regarding the bear bite force depend on the type of bear in question. One thing is for sure though—you definitely wouldn’t want to get on the wrong side of any of these animals, whether they’re the cuddly giant panda or the dangerous grizzly bear.

8K

An Affordable Alternative to the Glock?

Palmetto State Armory’s PSA Dagger is getting a lot of attention because it is a GLOCK-style pistol chambered for the exceptionally popular 9mm cartridge. TLDR: The results were better than expected!

It’s probably safe to assume the AR-15 has claimed the title of “America’s Rifle.” As for pistols, the 1911 Government Model was – and possibly still is – the American champ. But given the undiminished popularity of the Austrian borne GLOCK, even in the USA, it can’t lag far behind. And imitation being the sincerest form of flattery, a growing list of polymer clones only narrows whatever gap exists.

Some are higher end versions sold for greater costs. But, apparently, another way to move a knockoff is to market it for less money. This is my review of such a pistol, Palmetto State Armory’s Dagger. Priced less than a GLOCK 19 but bearing a strong resemblance, the question begging for an answer is: How does the PSA Dagger perform?

The PSA Dagger Introduction

Produced by Palmetto State Armory – a firm known for AR-15s (see our article on building a low-cost AR-15 with Palmetto State Armory) – this polymer pistol was introduced during 2020. Since then, the Dagger has gone through several iterations. Supposedly, it’s been debugged along the way (a fairly common evolutionary practice). Based on a 9mm GLOCK 19 Gen-3, the Dagger bears a strong resemblance that extends to the internals but it’s not an identical clone. It will, however, fit inside a Glock 19 holster. More on that in a moment.

Another big difference is cost. The basic Dagger lists for around $300, a couple hundred bucks less than the GLOCK.

The 9mm Dagger Compact I received sported a flat dark earth finish. Its slide was protected by Cerakote that blended nicely with the polymer frame. Sold as a package, it was handed to me in a well-made color-coordinated soft-case – containing ten magazines! Surprised by the bubble-packed windfall, I checked the Palmetto State Armory website.

Low and behold, the same magazine rich package appeared for under $400. Upon viewing it initially, my first thought was “Prepper Kit.”

PSA Dagger Compact Specifications:

• Capacity is 15 +1.
• Unloaded with an empty magazine, it weighed 23 ounces on my scale.
• Fully loaded with 16 rounds (124 grain bullets) it weighed 29.8 ounces.
• The barrel measured 3.875 inches.
• Overall length was 7-inches and at its thickest point, the grip, it measured 1.25-inches.

GLOCK 19 Similarities:

• The Dagger uses the same magazines as a GLOCK 19.
• The ten packed with the Dagger were PMAGS.
• Supposedly most of its other parts will also interchange with a G-19, to include its frame, slide and barrel.
• The Dagger disassembles per the GLOCK process.

Dagger Review – GLOCK Comparison

Continuing the comparison to the GLOCK 19, I reviewed the PSA Dagger through that lens.

Dagger Disassembly

Basic disassembly – or field stripping – is relatively simple.

1. Verify the pistol is completely unloaded, to include removal of the magazine.
2. Pull the trigger (dry-fire).
3. Retract the slide around ¼”, and two opposing tabs in the frame are pulled downward.
4. The entire slide assembly can now be drawn forward off the frame for removal of the guide rod and the barrel.

Because it’s a simple process, it encourages ongoing maintenance.

Reassembly is in reverse order. It’s also simpler since fiddling with the small takedown tabs is unnecessary. Still, my first couple attempts with the Dagger resulted in some minor alignment hassles. But once I got the hang of it, the slide assembly slipped on to the frame without further difficulties.

A cautionary disassembly reminder that shouldn’t be necessary – but is. Perform the “completely unloaded” step at least twice (I’ve seen this go to hell). Also, isolate the firearm from any live ammo. Better to be safe than sorry!

More Comparisons to the GLOCK 19

Following the design of a GLOCK, the Dagger’s polymer frame houses steel rail-inserts held in place by pins. However the latter’s forward locking-block insert is longer. Sans interchangeable grip inserts, the serial-numbered polymer shell features aggressive but not-irritating textured panels, a high-cut trigger guard, and a GLOCK-type accessory rail. Also, the bottom of its mag well incorporates relief cuts, useful for the removal of recalcitrant magazines. But the slide-stop and mag catch are non-reversible.

Although it was finished in flat dark earth, the slide is stainless steel, and has fore and aft cocking serrations. Touted as a “Carry Cut” design, its front and rear edges are “smoother” for snag-free draws.

The sights are mounted per a GLOCK, opening the door to a plethora of aftermarket options. The Dagger I received had a standard slide, but an optics-ready version is offered, machined to locate a miniaturized red dot ahead of the rear sight.

The barrel, also stainless, is rifled with six conventional lands and grooves (more suitable for lead bullets). Near as I can determine, it’s rifled 1:10 – the same twist today’s bullet manufacturers use to test expanding projectiles. The muzzle sits flush with the slide, and has a cleanly cut recessed face, similar to the 11-degree crown seen on many HB rifles.

Like a GLOCK, the Dagger’s recoil spring is captive, but its guide rod is stainless steel.

The front and rear sights are steel (instead of plastic). The set on this PSA Dagger were fixed three-dots, and the rear was shaped to permit single-handed slide racks. It’s also drift-adjustable for windage.

One obvious departure was the trigger which differs from a GLOCK. Instead of a separate blade, PSA went with an articulated version similar to an S&W M&P. To me it was completely familiar. If it’s not your cup of tea, supposedly, it can be swapped out for one of many GLOCK versions. I didn’t try this.

The magazine release appeared to have an ample pad, but didn’t want to let go – at least, not without exaggerated efforts. It was a real bear for me and a couple others who tried it.

On a positive note, the Dagger’s fit and finish were better than expected. Play between the slide and frame was minimal in battery and the barrel was a tight fit. In theory, at least, it should shoot. Before hitting the range to find out, I gave it a cursory cleaning and lube to begin with a “clean” slate.

Range Results

December’s range conditions hovered in the low 30s but the day was calm and overcast, ideal for a meaningful accuracy assessment. No snow either, helpful for the recovery and inspection of fired cases. I started out by loading three magazines with five rounds each, to check for function while allowing the Dagger’s parts to “settle in.”

All shooting occurred from a “ready” position. The loads are listed in their firing orders.

9mm Speer 124-grain Lawman TMJ

Speer’s FMJ-type “Total Metal Jacket” is a cut above many so-called Q-loads. It’s performed very well for me in a number of 9mm pistols. Initial five-shot groups on 15-yard steel silhouettes were encouraging, and function was 100 %. The ejection pattern was consistent, and the recovered cases appeared normal.

The slide locked open as designed on the last shot, and each magazine popped free – once the release was fully depressed. This turned out to be an even greater challenge due to the chilly weather.

Full magazines came next BUT loading them with a full 15-rounds turned into a real battle! The last couple were nigh-impossible, and my seldom-used loading device didn’t fit. But perseverance finally triumphed and the final few rounds could be easily stripped out through a push of the thumb.

They chambered normally, too. Satisfied with the Dagger’s function, I zeroed back in on a trio of repainted 15-yard silhouettes and fired a 10-shot group on each, offhand (using both hands). A good omen: Tight clusters developed directly above the sights, each of which measured around two inches.

The 25-yard accuracy tests were shot on cardboard targets, off sandbags, to capture the results. Three 5-shot groups with the same TMJs produced consistent results averaging less than 2 ½-inches – better than many pistols costing two or three times as much! And once again, the groups were close to the sights.

9mm Speer 124-grain Gold Dot JHPs

The next load up, Speer’s nickel-plated defensive offering is another high-confidence round. From the Dagger, it produced similar downrange results and functioned without issues. The ejection pattern was also consistent, and the fired cases showed no signs of problems.

9mm Federal 135-grain HYDRA-SHOK JHP “Low Recoil”

The last load tested, results were on par with the other loads and free of negative surprises. As for recoil, there may have been less. But, overall, the Dagger was completely manageable.

Hits & Misses

I wrapped up the Dagger’s range session by shooting it from various angles with Speer TMJs, some of which were fired exclusively with my support (left) hand. The pistol ran without a hitch, and, across the board, accuracy was better than expected.

The trigger behaved similarly to many other striker-fired designs. It combined a distinct reset with a consistent pull (the above listed 6 ¼ lb. weight was recorded after the range session).

My only real gripe was the magazine release. As a full-time range rat, I’ve had the opportunity to play with lots of different pistols. A few had fiddly mag releases, but this one was in a league all its own.

The oft-taught partial flip failed to remedy this issue, which is apparently hit or miss. I think it’s more a matter of the shooter’s hand size relative to the grip design. For those that encounter the problem, a possible fix is an aftermarket GLOCK release.

Not a fault of the pistol, but fully loading the PMAGS with 15 rounds was a battle (my frame of reference includes sub-gun mags). The process became easier once they’d been loaded for a few days, but I’d spring for a loading device – or different mags.

As for handling, I’m more of an S&W M&P guy. Typically, a standard GLOCK indexes muzzle-up. But, despite the absence of interchangeable grip inserts, the Dagger was more of a natural pointer for me.

Another huge plus: It shot to its sights. Speaking of which, more options are available there to include night sights, etc.

The Dagger will no doubt fit some unmolded GLOCK 19 designs. It fit two different GLOCK 19 holsters that came from Falco Holsters.

Lights and Lasers

I slipped a small QD Olight PL Mini 2 Valkyrie on the Dagger’s accessory rail, using its supplied GLOCK adapter. It locked securely in place and was a nice match for the pistol.

The Dagger does lack a loaded chamber indicator, but nickel-plated cartridges were visible in the small gap adjacent to its extractor. As a “two-fer” they also provide a useful means to differentiate defensive and practice loads.

Parting Shots

A post-shooting examination (and cleaning session) indicated no obvious problems. Then again, in total, I only fired around 200 rounds – far from a comprehensive test. However, the Dagger does come with a lifetime warranty. Is the Dagger worth it? Maybe…

The original 9mm GLOCK-17 gained rapid acceptance among law enforcement agencies and civilians. The compact 15 +1 G-19 was a logical progression. Decades later, both remain polymer gold standards regarding reliability and durability. Most GLOCK devotees will have little reason to switch, but not everyone is wedded to this brand.

Also, some shoot infrequently at best, and money is often a concern. Further rationale for the purchase of a Dagger? Maybe for use as a squirreled-away spare, or even a home defense gun. Tricked-out higher end pistols can invoke litigious perils and, the expense of a competent attorney aside, a firearm used for such purposes will likely do time in an evidence locker.

Further rationale? Returning to the Prepper Kit thought, I dragged out a 9mm Windham Weaponry AR-15 carbine, configured to run on GLOCK-17 magazines. Both the 15-shot Dagger Compact and “pistol caliber carbine” functioned with magazines of either design – a reassuring footnote, given the ten PMAGS that came with the pistol.

In closing, unlike the AR-15, like a GLOCK, the PSA Dagger has no frame-mounted safety lever. However, the” safe action” system (and its variants) is safe enough – if supported by proper training. That, and adherence to Rule #3 which stipulates strict finger-off-trigger discipline.

For more about this system and other handguns of all kinds, see my book Handguns: A Buyer’s and Shooter’s Guide.

Freezing cold toes are no fun when you are out for a ride. These boa snowmobile boots will protect your little piggies when the mercury drops.

No one likes to get cold feet, especially when snowmobiling, and maybe when getting married. Picking the right pair of snowmobile boots is vital to the enjoyment of the ride. Not only do you need warm boots, but also supportive boots that function just as well off the sled as they do on.

While not absolutely essential, the boa closure system is ideally suited to snowmobilers. Lacing up your boots, or simply tightening or loosening them a little, can be done with the turn of a dial. You can even do it with a gloved hand – perfect for those cold winter morning rides. Boa snowmobile boots make it faster and easier to take them off or put them on. Plus, they are laced with stainless steel wire that is built to last, so you won’t have to worry about breaking a lace before you get out and ride. The boa closure system adds some cost to your snowmobiling boots, but when you consider you may own a pair for many years, the added convenience makes up for it – at least in our opinion.

Here are some staff favorite boa snowmobile boots that pass the test of being warm, functional, comfortable and ready to take on the adventure that you have in mind.

Lead Photo Courtesy Shuttestock/Wlad Go

1. Editor’s Choice: KLIM Adrenaline Pro GTX BOA

Of course, you know Klim is going to bring it when it comes to technical riding gear. The all-new Adrenaline Pro GTX boot is Klim’s latest advancement in comfortable boots made for extremely technical conditions. The plan going into the these boa snowmobile boots was to tweak their previous design to add more support for your foot and for you as you tackle the terrain. The GTX boots have an advanced Boa closure and 600g Thinsulate insulation. They are guaranteed to keep you dry with complete GORE-TEX outers. They recommend a technical sock be worn to get the most out of the boot, which isn’t a bad idea anyway. These boots also have a forward design with stiff support against movement that aren’t going forward. This helps keep you planted and protected, while at the same time, being comfortable – Just as you’d expect from Klim.

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2. Runner Up: FXR Black Ops X-Cross Pro

Boa technology is something you’ll see with many of the top boots. It is a simple system that has replaced standard tie-laces and lets you really get a snug and secure fit. FXR Racing created the Black Ops X-Cross Pro for those wanting the ultimate in extreme terrain riding and warmth. They are rated to -40° C with 600-gram insulation, but there’s so much more to these boots. The 2-piece tongue provides a positive fit for maximum comfort so you get the best flexibility, stability and protection while on your sled. Additionally, this boot has a fixed liner with fur lining for further comfort and warmth, while minimal seams in the sled-contact areas minimize possible damage from high contact points. When you’re off the sled, the 20mm thick EVA midsole gives you plenty of traction in the snow, and the 2mm rubber reinforced toe cap provides protection from cold and whatever you might stumble across under the snow.

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3. CastleX Charge Atop

As one of the leaders in performance snowmobile gear, CastleX has a boot that comes in at a close second on our list of best BOA snowmobile boots. This rugged snowmobile boot features a 3-layer Merino Wool blend that provides plenty of insulation to keep you warm, while providing plenty of moisture wicking air mesh to keep your feet dry. Furthermore, the CastleX Charge Atop has a fully integrated Castle DRY-X waterproof membrane to keep your feet dry even in deep snow, and the ColdShield Technology from CastleX helps to keep your feet comfortable with the removable insole that is manufactured from wool with a metallic heat reflecting layer.

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4. 509 Raid Single Boa

Probably best known for its lineup of snowmobile goggles, 509 has some other gear worth looking into. The 509 Raid Boa snowmobile boot comes with 600g of Thinsulate insulation, 5TECH waterproof and breathable liner, Raid rubber reinforcements engineered to stand up to sharp running boards, and a dual boa lacing system with quick release M3 Lace reels and aircraft stainless wire. That dual boa lacing system lets you fine tune the upper and lower zone fit with the turn of a dial. All of this combines to make the 509 Raid Boa one of the best snowmobiling boots available.

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5. Korker Polar Vortex 1200

While not a traditional snowmobile boot, these boots from Korker are something you should look at for a warm, dry boot that has tremendous support for activities on the sled and off. These boots feature 1200g of 3M Thinsulate insulation for maximum warmth of your feet while out on your sled, and the 100% waterproof construction ensures that your tootsies stay dry. If you venture out and feel a little chill in your feet, don’t fret because for additional warmth, Korker has integrated Farenheight Heat Warmer compatibility into their premium aerogel frost barrier footbed. One of the best selling points of these comfy winter boots is that they’re available with their OmniTrax 3.0 Interchangeable soles. You’ll get one set of Winter Rubber Lug soles and for those icy days, you can swap the soles out for the IceTrac Studded Rubber Lug soles that feature a total of 332 carbide studs to give you solid traction on the slippery stuff.

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Why is the Boa lace system better than traditional laces?

In one word, simplicity. The Boa lace system allows for tightening of your boots with simple turn of a knob, quickly and evenly. No more fiddling around with two laces, trying to pull them together with frostbitten fingers. Even with gloves on, you can secure and even tighten the boots if they settle after a little bit. They’re just easy and convenient.

What are the most important factors to look for in boots?

First and foremost for us, you want your boots to be warm. Why bother spending the money on them if you end up with frostbitten toes at the end of your riding day. Your boots should have plenty of insulation in addition to being 100% waterproof that helps to keep your feet warm, and of course with all of this you want your boots to be comfortable. Think that you’ll be in these for hours and how much can you really enjoy your riding if your feet are killing you. Finally we like our boots to have a good sturdy sole with plenty of traction. Remember that you’re not on your sled the entire time of your riding adventures. You want to have good traction while you’re taking your breaks as well.

Additional Resources

• Best Snowmobile Gloves To Keep Your Fingers Warm
• Best Snowmobile Jackets

Recent Updates

10/18/2022: Removed obsolete product, added new product (Korkers Polar Vortex 1200, FXR Black Ops X-Cross Pro, and CastleX Charge Atop), Added FAQ

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