I’ve been in a few needed-gear discussions through the years, and my pack is wiser and better for it after such campfire sessions.

In fact, if you happen to look through my pack right now, odds are you’ll find a few of those must-have items that weren’t always there before; things like a book or magazine to read, a roll of toilet paper, and a copy of the latest hunting regs.

By the way, if you’re going to rummage through my hunting pack, be sure to put down that package of Old Trapper Jumbo Kippered Beef Steak because it’s mine, and no, you can’t have it. The same goes for the Old Trapper Original Deli Style Beef Sticks, while we’re on the subject.

But there are other items in my pack besides some great-tasting beef jerky. And some, put simply, are so vital to a solid outcome that if you head into the woods without them, you’re not really ready to hunt, in my humble opinion.

With that in mind, here’s a guide to 10 indispensable items that every deer hunter will want to have handy in a hunting pack.

Bright Stuff

In all my years of hunting, one of the most indispensable items I’ve made a habit of never leaving home without is what I call “the bright stuff.” That includes a compact and bright flashlight, like those made by Surefire or Streamlight, tools that can help a hunter get to the stand way before dawn, back to the truck well after sundown, and during the O’ Dark Thirty search for a downed buck.

You’ll also find a headlamp. And batteries, don’t forget the extra batteries. Why? Because nothing—and I mean nothing—is as worthless as a bright flashlight or headlamp that won’t shine on a moonless night.

Sharp Stuff

If being able to find your way into and out of the dark deer woods is one necessity in a hunting pack, so, too, is a way of field dressing a downed buck and notching a deer tag. After all, that’s the end goal of a deer hunt, right?

Early in my hunting career, there was always a Buck Knives 110 Folding Hunter—besides being a timeless classic in the hunting knife world, it was also a Christmas present from my late grandmother Zelma—tucked away in a zippered pocket. There’s also a Knives of Alaska Cub Bear caping knife and a KOA Bobcat hatchet tool as well.

And since knives can see their edges dulled from use in the field, be sure that you have a knife-sharpening device of some sort, something like the multi-function, portable sharpening system, Smith’s Pak Pal Pocket.

Stand Prep Gear

While on the subject of sharp things, don’t forget a few tools for prepping the area around your deer stand.

Obviously, a good limb saw is a fine start in this department, as is a pair of brush-cutting shears, or garden pruners, to help snip away a limb or two that might block a clear shot path when Mr. Big comes calling. Since some public hunting areas won’t allow cutting or pruning activity, a handful of black or brown zip ties is a must to hold back protruding vegetation along with a few feet of paracord for the same purposes.

Gloves

Most hunters carry a pair of camouflage gloves (don’t forget the face mask or head net, either) in their pack, gloves that will help hide hands from the prying eyes of a deer cruising through the woods.

But there are two other types of gloves you’ll want in your pack as well. The first is a pair of leather or canvas work gloves for dealing with moving big tree limbs, pushing logs out of the way, or dragging a big buck out of the woods.

And last—but certainly not least—is a pair of field-dressing gloves in your pack, indispensable tools when it comes time to getting a downed buck ready for transport back to camp. After all, you plan on punching a deer tag on your next hunt, right?

Hunting Extras

I used to think having an extra bowhunting release or supply of rifle or muzzleloader bullets was overkill and just added unnecessary weight to a pack that already seemed heavy enough.

That is, until I dropped one of those items to the ground 20 feet below my treestand as shooting time arrived. Or discovered that such vital necessities were back in my pickup truck, two miles back down the trail and minutes before I expected Old Swamp Daddy to show up. In such instances, what’re a few extra ounces worth?

Rain Gear

I’ll be honest, if the day’s weather forecast shows an all-day downpour is coming, I’m probably going to skip out of deer hunting (unless there’s an enclosed hard ground blind I can sit comfortably in as everything gets drenched).

But for the times when an unexpected shower pops up on the radar, some lightweight rain gear is a blessing and a half, helping me stay warm, dry, and comfortable, just long enough for the woods to come alive as does and big-antlered bucks get up, shake themselves dry, and start to move again.

Hunting Calls

I’ll admit that I was once a skeptic about carrying hunting calls. You know, the extra weight thing, and the nagging question of whether or not they really worked.

But then came hunts where I saw firsthand proof that the grunt calls and rattling horns I wasn’t always sure about actually did work. In fact, I can still see the South Texas buck all wide-eyed and nostrils flaring as he came searching for a buck fight that didn’t exist.

Now, you’ll never find me in the deer woods these days without a grunt call, a fawn bleat call, and some way to simulate a pair of old bucks knocking their heads together again. Like doubting Thomas, I’m a believer now.

Power, Power, Power!

A high-school football coach friend of mine is fond of the running game for his program. After all, it’s worked wonders down through the years and sent a number of good running backs on to play college football. So, it’s no wonder that he often says that his favorite brand of gridiron action revolves around “Power, power, power!”

The same is true for deer hunters and the powering up of their smartphones or other electronic devices. While I could wax poetic here and say that we should leave such devices back at camp, none of us ever do.

And after texting back and forth to my wife about the adult kid’s Christmas lists, looking at e-mails from the boss, or checking the latest football score on a Saturday afternoon, I know firsthand how the cold temperatures and long hours of deer hunting can zap an electronic device of its life-giving power.

The solution? Keep a charged-up power supply handy in your pack, along with a power cord, and you’ll get through a long day of hunting with plenty of electronic juice to spare.

Hydration

In the good old days, I’d have probably just written something here about carrying a thermos of hot coffee or a bottle of water, something to wash lunch down and help keep a hunter hydrated.

But as a hunter moving through his 50s right now—loosely translated, that means that I have trouble staying alert and my muscles get sore pretty easily—I now opt for hydration that brings a benefit beyond simply slaking my thirst.

That means carrying a packet or two of hydration mixes from hunting nutritional product companies like Mossy Oak Wellness, Mtn Ops, or Wilderness Athlete, among others. Depending on what product you like, there are various flavor options as well as products that can help with muscle tissue recovery, a boost of energy without the caffeine-related crash, and even give a boost to your immune system.

Nutrition

Last, but not least, you’ll want to make sure that your pack has some way to fuel the big hunting engine known as your body, a way of gaining some nutrition, a few calories, and staving off a growling stomach until you can get back to camp and can grab a hot meal.

When planning for a lengthy deer hunting sit, I’m going to be packing food items like a turkey sandwich or two, two or three packages of peanut butter crackers, and a few sleeves of my favorite nuts or trail mix.

Whatever is going into my pack, I want food and snack items that are protein-rich, low on fat, skinny on carbs and calories, aren’t terribly smelly, and come in packages that are easy to open and don’t make a lot of noise as I’m fumbling around.

That leads to one of deer hunting’s most perfect snack options, the beef jerky products made by Old Trapper, the Oregon-based company founded in 1969 that is one of America’s leaders in making tasty and nutritious jerky products like the company’s time-honored Old Fashioned Beef Jerky in the clear 10-ounce packaging.

From a nutritional standpoint, the Old Fashioned flavor checks all of the boxes for yours truly: it’s low in fat (as in zero percent for overall fat and saturated fat daily allowances), it’s low in per-serving calories (70) and carbs (6 grams), and it packs a powerhouse punch of protein (11 grams).

Not to mention that it’s plenty darn tasty and satisfying, too. Plus, if you’re familiar with the history of the Forest Grove, Oregon, jerky-making company, then you’ll recognize that it’s this jerky—and its lean cuts of seasoned and lightly brown sugared beef—that started Old Trapper’s run to the top of the mountain, all out of the back of a small grocery store.

Today, the company still uses real wood, real smokehouses, and the time-honored processes that result in jerky that is never tough, always tasty, and a welcome part of any deer hunter’s pack.

Numerous other options are in the Old Trapper line-up too, including Old Trapper Teriyaki Beef Jerky; Old Trapper Peppered Beef Jerky; and Old Trapper Hot & Spicy Beef Jerky.

And don’t forget the Old Trapper Zero Sugar Beef Jerky; the oval coins of Old Trapper Old Fashioned Double Eagle Beef Jerky; or the company’s various snack stick products like the Old Trapper Teriyaki Deli Style Beef Stick and the Old Trapper Jalapeno Beef & Cheese Snack Stick among others.

In short, there’s a number of great items deer hunters need to keep in their hunting pack throughout hunting season, from the warm early days of September and October, to the bitter cold days of late December and early January as the buzzer gets ready to sound.

And while most all of these gear items are important in their own right, at the forefront of what needs to go into your pack are the beef jerky and meat snack products from Old Trapper, items that no deer hunting pack should be without.

Snakehead; Scary name, scary attitude, and surprisingly delicious.

Snakehead are an invasive species in the United States but are native and a delicacy in Asia. Snakehead were believed to be introduced to the United States through illegal exotic fish dumping.

Snakehead have now been seen in 7 states since their introduction in Maryland. The largest population resides in the Potomac River drainage where they pose a large threat to the native species and ecosystems. The biggest threat they pose is an introduction to the Great Lakes where they could potentially wreak havoc on the very intricate and unique ecosystems.

Channa Argus or the Northern Snakehead are very unique fish. They have the ability to breathe oxygen and can survive out of water for 4 days. They also mature very fast and start spawning within 1-3 years. Dependent upon the ecosystem, Northern Snakehead can spawn UP TO 5 TIMES in one season from April to August, which potentially means 50,000 eggs can be laid in a season. They are very territorial during this time of year because they guard their eggs. The fry will hatch in 2-4 days and then will feed off of the embryonic sacs they are attached to. The female and male will guard these bright orange fry balls much like a female Largemouth bass. Any sort of invader is bound to get eaten.

This brings me to catching these toothy fish. TOPWATER. These fish sit in heavy vegetation, cover, and have been known to have birds, small mammals, and frogs in their bellies. Baitfish streamers, topwater frog and mice patterns, and others such as gurglers and poppers have been known to work. Along with the heavy cover and teeth, 30lb fluoro is commonly used. A wire leader could mean the difference between holding one of these slimy invaders and a lost fly. These fish may have a bad reputation and you’d think they would be easy to catch but it’s quite the opposite. These fish tend to be picky and moody. They will chase your fly all the way back to the boat but won’t eat it. If you get followed or get a short strike, change your fly and cast to the exact same area. Much like bass fishermen if a bass misses a topwater strike they can throw in a submersible bait into the same area and most likely get bit.

Now onto eating these slimy missiles of piss and vinegar. Snakehead have a slightly more firm fillet than tilapia and near-zero gaminess or fishiness. Eat the invaders is what people are calling it when they harvest these fish. So instead of giving your garden some snakehead fertilizer try filleting it up and pan-searing them.

“It is such a universal fish. If it weren’t for the name I think it would be on more menus.” “Can’t beat ’em, eat ’em,” is the slogan from Louisiana chef Philippe Parola.

“Eating invasive species is a really fun and interesting and charismatic way of attacking a very acute problem,” said Seaver, who advocates for sustainable seafood.

“Chef Chad Wells of Alewife restaurant tossed chunks of raw snakehead fish with cilantro and citrus to make something more ambitious than an $8 ceviche appetizer. It was an invasive-species eradication plan in a martini glass.”

Seaver, Parola, and Wells have been among the front lines serving snakehead on their menus. So far, snakehead has done well on restaurant menus helping combat this alien invasion.

Now if snakehead ceviche isn’t your thing these next few dishes should be simple and delicious ways to prepare snakehead.

#1 – Pan-Seared Snakehead Tacos

The most simple yet effective way to truly taste the fish is to pan-sear them. Make sure you take the skin off of your fillet. Snakeheads have large tough scales which would inhibit cooking and just wouldn’t look appetizing.

• Lightly crack salt and pepper on both sides of the fillet.
• A little bit of olive oil or butter in a pan and a fresh fillet of snakehead.
• The Pan should be at medium heat.

I’m a huge fan of a vegetal or fruit-based salsa with fish tacos. With how firm the fillet is it can hold a good amount of salsa on top without being too heavy and masking the flavor of the fish.

With all this info now all that’s left is to go catch one for yourself! Join the movement and Eat the Invaders!

Featured Image Courtesy: Fishtalkmag.com

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Bird Eating GTs

Invasive Snakehead Found in GA: “Kill it Immediately!”

Trout Unlimited’s 2020 Priorities

Whether you are a hunter or just curious about what animal is in the woods near you, being able to identify them by their eyeshine is a pretty cool skill to have. I did a lot of research but had trouble finding a good resource. So, I decided to compile everything I learned and share it here with you. This is what I found out.

In identifying animal eyes at night, you should consider four primary factors – the color, the shape of the eyes, pupil slit orientation, and eyelid shape. Predatory animals have glowing eyes with vertically elongated pupils, while harmless animals have horizontally elongated pupils.

In total, there are five primary eye shine colors that are visible in animals: blue, green, white, yellow, and red.

Here is an eye shine chart of 38 animals:

By the way, this fascinating book on Amazon covers how animal eye color affects behavior.

This article will examine why some animals have eyes that glow in the dark and how this feature helps them survive. We’ll also share a helpful eyeshine chart that you can use to identify animal eyes in the dead of night.

Why Do Animal Eyes Shine at Night?

Before we look at what colors go with actual animals, let’s talk a bit about the science.

Many animals have a thin reflective membrane at the back of their eyes, known as tapetum lucidum. This reflective membrane layer lies behind the iris and acts as a retroreflector, which means it reflects light back at the source – in this case, back at your flashlight.

It reflects visible light passing through the retina back to increase the amount of light on the photoreceptors. The presence of a tapetum lucidum gives nocturnal carnivores superb night vision.

Animals reflect the light directly toward the light source to give the retina a succinct image to analyze. Cats have incredible night vision because the reflective effects boost their night vision.

By matching the original and reflected light, the reflective layer maintains the image’s contrast and sharpness. The reflective layer uses constructive interference to increase the amount of light passing through the animal’s retina.

This phenomenon is also known as eyeshine because the glowing eyes are simply reflections of the light source trained at the animal. Shining light directly on the face of an animal with a tapetum lucidum causes the eyes to glow.

Eyeshine comes in various colors, including white, yellow, red, blue, pink, or green. Since the reflective layer is iridescent, the pupils’ color is affected by the angle of vision, eye color, and the mineral makeup of the tapetum lucidum.

Related Which Animals’ Eyes Reflect at Night? | A Biological Insight.

Night Vision and Eyeshine

A tapetum lucidum improves an animal’s ability to see in the dark and low-light conditions. The reflective eye membrane is typical in mammals, reptiles, invertebrates, and amphibians.

The eyeshine color depends on the animal and can be red, orange, yellow, pink, blue, or green. The sheen depends on eye color, the shape of the eyes, and the light’s angle shining on the animal.

The intensity of the eye glow varies between species, with some animals glowing brighter than the rest. The animals with the brightest eyeshine have excellent night vision because their eyes have fewer cones. Unfortunately, perfect night vision comes with limited color vision or complete color blindness.

Eyeshine in Predators

Most of the nocturnal predators have a tapetum lucidum to help them see in the dark. Dogs, house cats, big cats, alligators, and ferrets are some of the predators with eyes that reflect in the darkness.

Improved night vision is essential to these predators because it allows them to track prey in pitch darkness.

Cool Fact: Some predatory fish, like walleye, need excellent night vision to hunt in the dark, deep waters. As a result, they have reflective eyes.

Interestingly, while owls have eyes that glow in the dark, they lack a tapetum lucidum in their eyes.

Glowing Eyes in Predators

Unsurprisingly, some of the prey targeted by the predators with improved night vision developed a tapetum lucidum layer. The layer evolved as a defense mechanism to help these herbivores detect predators in low-light conditions.

Some non-predators with excellent night vision include cattle, deer, pigs, camels, kangaroos, and horses.

Identifying Animals by Eye Glow at Night

While it’s possible to identify some animals by their eyeshine, the eye glow color is more of a guideline than accurate science.

Several factors influence the color of an animal’s eyeshine, including:

• The color of the light source – flashlight, camera, LED, or moonlight
• The color of the animal’s eyes
• The size of the animal’s retina
• The distance between you and the animal
• Your position and light source angle

Here are charts grouping animals by their eyeshine color:

Eyeshine Charts

It’s important to note that accurately identifying an animal at night might require more information than just its eye color. If you can, try to use the animal’s general size, behavior when looking at you, habitat, eye size, and more.

Related What Does Moon Overhead and Underfoot Mean?

Animals With Red Glowing Eyes at Night

Some animals with characteristic red eyes at night include:

• Alligators and crocodiles- The large eyeballs of alligators and crocodiles glow fiery red in the dark, making them easy to identify. If you’re near a river, lake, or swamp in an area that these creatures live in, take extra caution if you see red eyes in the dark.
• Owls- Owls are nocturnal birds with big eyes that glow red or orange after dark.
• Red fox- Foxes have red glowing eyes with perpendicular pupils.
• Rabbits- A rabbit’s eyes will exhibit a light red tone when you shine a light on them.

Animals With Yellow Eye Glow at Night

Some animals have glowing yellow eyes at night, including:

• Bears- A bear has dark brown eyes that take on a bright yellowish glow when you shine a light on them in the dark.
• Cats- Some cats have eyes that give off a yellow glow in the dark, but this can vary depending on the cat in question.
• Deer- A deer’s eyes glow yellow in the dark. As deer often live in the same habitats as bears, you should also look at the height and size of the eyes to determine which animal you’re looking at.
• Raccoons- Raccoons have big eyes that glow bright yellow in the dark.
• Chinchilla- Commonly kept as exotic pets, chinchillas also have big eyes that glow yellow in the dark.
• Panthers- This big cat has smallish eyes that glow yellow in the dark. You might not see the yellow glow if you shine the light directly on their face.

Animals With Glowing Green Eyes at Night

Some animals with eyes that glow green in the dark include:

• Dogs- Some dogs can have an eerie green nighttime glow that can be unsettling in the dark. A dog’s eyeshine can take on different colors, including blue, orange, green, and red.
• Foxes- Some foxes have an intense green glow in their eyes as they forage for food after dark, though a few types of foxes have white or yellow eyes instead.
• Opossum- Opossums have big eyes that light up green in the dark. You’re likely to find them perched up high on a tree at night.

Animals With White Eye Glow at Night

Some of the animals with eyes that glow white in the dark include:

• Coyotes- Coyotes have big eyes that glow bright white in the dark. While they’re predators that typically hunt in packs, you don’t need to panic if you see a pack of white eyes staring at you, as coyote attacks on humans are extremely rare.
• Deer- A deer’s eyes will reflect the white light of a camera equipped with a flash to assume a bright white glow in the dark.
• Tigers- Tigers would be difficult to spot in the dark were it not for their large eyes that glow white in the dark.

Why Human Eyes Don’t Shine

Human eyes do not have a reflective layer called the tapetum lucidum. In fact, all haplorhine primates are diurnal and do not have the tapetum lucidum.

To read more about this topic, go here.

Conclusion

Shining a flashlight into the darkness only to see a pair of glowing eyes staring back at you can be a bit frightening. And unless you know whether those eyes belong to a dangerous predator or a harmless herbivore, you won’t know whether to ignore them or be on your guard. Fortunately, you can identify an animal by its eyes at night if you have the correct information.

Some animals have eyes that glow in the dark because they have a special reflective membrane behind their retinas. The membrane is a unique adaptation to help their ability to see at night.

Most common eyeshine colors include white, green, red, yellow, and orange. The eye glow color depends on the specific animal, eye color, and light source, among other factors.

You’d need more information about an animal in addition to its eyeshine, such as habitat, size, behavior, eye size, and more, to identify it accurately.

Still, the included eyeshine chart should help. And don’t forget to check out this book on Amazon, it’s extremely helpful.

I hope this article has provided the info you needed. Thanks for reading!

For more, check out What Can Deer Smell? (How To Avoid Detection).

The freshwater drum (Aplodinotus grunniens) is a common fish found across much of the United States as well as parts of Canada and Central America. Also known as “sheephead,” this fish is unfortunately derided as a “rough” or even “trash fish” by some. Yet the freshwater drum is an eager biter that can put up a good fight when caught on rod and reel.

Drum get their name from the croaking or drumming sound they make. Drum species that dwell in saltwater like the red drum are very popular fish. Red drum are widely sought after for both sport and table fare. While those drum are popular game fish, the freshwater drum is mostly ignored. Since the fish are similar in so many ways, I don’t really have an explanation for that.

An average freshwater drum

In the early stages of life, immature freshwater drum are a food fish for many predators. As they grow they can take on enough size to put them out of range for all but the largest of predators. In most of their range freshwater drum commonly reach weights of 1 to 5 pounds (0.5-2.26kg). They can also get much larger than that. The world record freshwater drum weighing 54 pounds 8 ounces (24.7 kg) was caught in Tennessee’s Nickajack Lake back in 1972. Freshwater drum can live quite a while too. Some drum in the upper midwest have made it passed 70 years of age.

I’ve caught a lot of freshwater drum from Pennsylvania to Kentucky. Most were under five pounds, though a select few were much bigger than that. They were usually incidental catches that come when I am fishing for another species or no species in particular. I’m never disappointed to catch a freshwater drum in any case. Some of the larger drum I’ve hooked into were actually quite memorable.

How to find and identify the Freshwater Drum

Freshwater drum are deep bodied fish. They vary in color from a bright silver to a deep bronze reminiscent of smallmouth bass. They have a rounded snout and a long dorsal fin that stretches almost all the way back to the tail. The freshwater drum resembles the red drum in some ways, but the freshwater drum has a much deeper body and lacks spots.

The freshwater drum has a wide range that may not have been accurately defined yet. For example, the state record freshwater drum in Virginia was caught in Buggs Island Lake (also known as John H Kerr Reservoir) in 2018. That body of water down on the North Carolina border is well out of the range shown on most of the freshwater drum range maps I’ve been able to find.

Freshwater drum can be found from Canada down to Guatemala. The fish live at least as far east as Vermont and as far west as Montana. They’re common throughout much of the Mississippi River watershed and several great lakes including Lake Erie, Lake Huron, Lake Ontario, and Lake Michigan. They’re abundant in rivers like the Green, Ohio, Monongahela and Wabash. They are also common in a lot of smaller streams like Redstone Creek, Ten Mile Creek, and Pike Run in Pennsylvania.

Sheepshead will often come in shallow to feed and reveal themselves. You can also see them in some slower moving clear rivers and streams. So freshwater drum are usually not difficult to locate; and you can even sight fish for them at times. Yet they can also be present yet out of view. It’s pretty common to catch these fish when going for other species like catfish in muddy waters.

How to catch Freshwater Drum

Before I tell you about catching these fish, I want to let you know that I may earn commission when you make purchases through links on this page. This commission helps support my website, but it does not influence what I write. I only recommend products that I have found to be effective.

Freshwater drum are opportunist feeders. They will eat everything from small aquatic nymphs to minnows and crayfish. They can be caught on everything from flies like the San Juan Worm to lures like the Original Floating Rapala.

This big drum took a nightcrawler

That said, live bait is undoubtedly the most effective if you are looking to catch freshwater drum specifically. Most of the freshwater drum I’ve caught over the years took red worms or nightcrawlers. The bait was either drifting naturally with the current or held on the bottom with a sinker. Based on my experience with these fish, I am doubtful that anything would work better. Minnows can work, but drum seem to key in more on easily available worms.

Of course other things do catch freshwater drum. When it comes to flies they seem to be especially partial to the Clouser Minnow which they likely mistake for a crayfish. I’ve also seen them go after small nymphs tied competition style on jig hooks.

Freshwater drum will also attack small jigs like Lindy Little Nippers and Road Runners fished on spinning gear. Especially if they are tipped with maggots or wax worms. As any carp angler can tell you, freshwater drum will also eat doughball too.

Lures that look like Freshwater Drum

As I mentioned above, a lot of fish dine on young freshwater drum. Some very large predators may even attack larger drum later in life. Where legal, some anglers cut freshwater drums into strips and fish the meat as cutbait. This can work well for blue catfish and large channel cats. For most other predator species a lure that looks like a freshwater drum would be more effective.

I don’t know of any lures that are made to look exactly like a young drum. Yet there are many lures available that resemble small freshwater drum in one way or another. Lures with deep bodies, silver or bronze colors, and rattles come close to the real thing. Those are the lures I would look to if I found predator fish keyed in on immature drum.

The Carp RT Jackall Gantarel Jr resembles a freshwater drum

Both the Silver Rapala Rap-V and Chartreuse Olive Spro Little John Crankbait look enough like young drum to fool predator fish. They both put off sounds too, which could resemble the croaking noises that freshwater drum actually make. In any case both of these lures catch fish. Of course there’s no way to be sure what the fish think these lures are when they grab them. It may very well be that they are simply acting out of predatory instinct, though some colors absolutely outfish others at times.

If you’re looking to really replicate a freshwater drum you might want to consider the Jackall Gantarel Jr swimbait in “Carp RT” color. I haven’t fished with this lure yet, but it looks more like a freshwater drum than any other I have ever seen. I don’t think they were meant to resemble drum at all, but in terms of overall shape and even shade these things are right on the money. I wouldn’t hesitate to try one out anywhere I knew that fish were feasting on young freshwater drum.

A good friend of mine will occasionally give me updates on how many arrows he has shot throughout the year. He keeps track, and is the kind of guy who simply loves the process of shooting. He’ll shoot 10,000 arrows in a year, which is a lot.

I’m jealous of him, because while I also love to shoot, I get bored easily. Standing at a set distance and shooting groups at bull’s-eyes is not my thing. I do it every year, especially at the beginning of the summer when I’m trying hard to get into the daily groove, but it doesn’t take long for my mind to start wandering and my desire to toe the line with a full hip quiver wanes.

It’s at that point in the summer when I know I need a change of pace. This used to involve a lot more trips to a nearby target range, where I could get my change-of-scenery fix by shooting the walk-through courses there. I still love them, but these days I have less free time to devote to a range trip.

Where I live in the suburbs, I’m lucky in that I can stagger several targets out to a distance of 50 yards beside my house. I also can stand on a sidehill for angled shots, and I can mess around with plenty of different shot angles.

Those quartering or obstructed shooting sessions tend to increase my confidence for real-world shots when critters are in play. That’s also why my favorite target right now is the 1⁄3 Scale Woodland Elk ($220) from Rinehart. This dwarf bull stands 38″ tall, looks just like the real thing, and is a great way to tighten up your groups if you have an elk hunt planned for the fall. Rinehart targets aren’t the cheapest option out there, but they last so long they’re worth the investment.

If you’ve got an elk target, you better pick up a deer target like the Big Shooter Buck ($100) from Shooter 3D Archery Targets. This 48″-tall target will stop all fieldpoints and broadheads, and is lightweight enough that you can move it around to work on different angles and varying distances. It’s also designed with a replaceable insert.

While it’s easy to love 3-D targets, you should probably also own something with a few bull’s-eyes on it, like the High Roller ($120) from Morrell Targets. When it comes to this style of target, it’s hard to beat the High Roller, and for some reason my little girls love shooting it as well. Maybe it’s the very visible bull’s-eyes, or simply the nontraditional color scheme? Either way, this six-sided, 100-percent weatherproof target is a great backyard option — especially when you consider it’s designed to handle both fieldpoints and broadheads.

Of course, you can’t get into this target category without mentioning an offering from BLOCK. Their 6X6 is one of the best deals going, considering you can own it for a cool $100. This target is designed to handle fieldpoints and broadheads as well, offers up easy arrow removal, and with its six-sided shooting allows you to fling away for years without worrying about blowing it out.

Power-Stop Archery Targets also has a $100 arrow-stopper that’s perfect for a quick evening session in the backyard. Their Range 16 can be used with broadheads or fieldtips, is made right here in the USA, and in addition to offering up traditional bull’s-eyes, it also has a Battleship face. This is a great target for competing with your buddies, or simply honing your skills with tiny aiming points.

By far one of the best deals going this year in new targets is from Delta McKenzie. Their Wedgie ($55) is half the price of most targets, weighs 36 lbs., and is printed on both sides with multiple aiming points. It draws its name from its wedge shape, which allows it to stand up easily and stay standing during every shot, unlike most bag targets that will tip over not only when you shoot them but when a slight wisp of a breeze blows in their direction.

A target company you may not be familiar with but that is producing some killer products is Walk-On Archery. Their MarXMan 6 Sided Field Point Target with Broadhead Windows ($90) allows you to shoot six sides with fieldpoints, and two sides with broadheads. It weighs only 28 lbs., is covered in a durable, weather-resistant polypropylene cover, and is built with a bonded, high-density foam core to withstand the abuse of thousands of shots.

Cabela’s churns out a lot of products, and they’ve got a few in the target market. Their Barricade Archery Target ($45) is a good choice for anyone looking for a cheap, highly portable target. It weighs only 7 lbs. but it’s built to withstand both fieldpoints and broadheads. Several different aiming options on the four shootable sides allow you to go precise if you wish, or give yourself a bigger bull’s-eye for dropping long-range bombs.

.270 Winchester

Being a Western guy, I have psychological issues with choosing the best caliber for just one species. Me, I want to be able to shoot anything from coyotes to moose with the durned thing.

So while it’s not short and fat and it’s not a fire-breathing magnum dragon, Winchester’s classic .270 gets it done on most anything, assuming shrewd projectile choice.

Whitetail hunting offers perhaps more variation in shot type and animal size than any other North American big game, so it behooves hunters to shoot a cartridge capable of making the most of any situation. Whether you’re threading a timbered needle-hole toward a massive Wisconsin corn-eater or driving a steeply raking shot into the hip of a 280-pound Saskatchewan monster, the .270 Winchester kills whitetails as well as any cartridge – and far better than most.

Importantly, it does so without beating up the shooter. Recoil generated by a .270 Winchester is just a shade past comfortable, but it’s not painful.

Some might argue that the .270 is more cartridge than one needs for whitetails. My condolences to those poor misguided souls. I hope that someday when they lay the crosshairs on a heavy-boned, densely muscled, rutted-up northern buck and its shaggy coat and testosterone-filled attitude, it will lead them to the light.

As for bullet, any good 130- to 150-grain bullet makes wonderful whitetail medicine, but I’d go with Nosler’s outstanding 140-grain AccuBond. It’s tough enough to hold together through shoulder bones, expands dramatically, wreaks havoc on vitals, and is fairly aerodynamic, enabling skillful hunters to reach way out there if need be.

Part of what makes it so great is that a hunter can walk into just about any country gas station and buy a box of .270 cartridges.

-Joseph von Benedikt

.257 Weatherby Magnum

It’s human nature to want the most bang for the buck, and few are satisfied with a cartridge that is ideally suited for just one job. Instead, they opt for a jack-of-all-trades cartridge. The good news is there are cartridges that will do decent work on everything from mice to moose, but the bad news is they don’t do any one thing particularly well.

The .270 Winchester fits into this category. It was my first rifle, and I killed a pile of game with it. I’ve learned since, when possible, to match the caliber to the game. Since many hunters hunt strictly whitetails, why not pick a cartridge that is the right tool for the job?

For me, the best whitetail cartridge is the .257 Weatherby Magnum. Invented by Roy Weatherby in 1944, it was his favorite cartridge as well. Why? Because it has low recoil and a laser-like trajectory, and it kills quicker than any cartridge has a right to. Spitting out a 100-grain bullet at 3,500 fps, no other commercially produced deer round has such a flat trajectory.

This means that without a lot of thinking, or confusing ballistic reticles, or scope adjustments, a hunter can place a bullet in the vitals from spitting distance all the way out past 400 yards simply by holding the crosshairs in the middle of the deer.

While there are factory loads featuring 87-grain pills up to 120-grainers, deer hunters will do well to stay in the middle of the spectrum at 100 grains. Smart money selects premium bullets because the cartridge’s high velocity tends to tear lesser bullets apart. Monolithic solids, Bear Claws, and Partitions all work great on deer and carry the magical 1,000 ft.-lbs. of energy out past 600 yards for true long-range performance.

So regardless of whether your whitetails are of the tiny Couse variety or great, swollen-necked Saskatchewan giants, the .257 Weatherby Magnum is the ideal cartridge bar none.

-Mike Schoby

I settled into my stand with favorable weather conditions and plenty of optimism for an early season September bowhunt in the rolling hills of Eastern Ohio.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, I heard a branch crack to the right and behind me. It was a buck sporting a symmetrical 8-point frame, most likely a 2½- or 3½-year-old. I was in college at the time and still a bowhunting novice, and this would be the largest buck I’d ever taken with a bow. He walked past my setup at 5 yards. I drew and made the rookie mistake of aiming with my arms and not my body. When a deer is that close to your stand and you are at full draw, bend at the waist to keep your anchor point consistent.

Lesson learned.

I shot high, and the deer bounded 15 yards away, uncertain what had just whizzed right over his spine. His confusion bought me enough time to nock another arrow, draw and shoot. The second shot hit the deer in what looked like the middle of his frame. On impact, his rear legs kicked backward and up like a bronco. He bolted as I sat shaking.

The real work was just about to start.

Every bowhunter strives for perfect shot placement, but every shot can’t hit the mark every time. Sometimes we make a lethal hit but compound less-than-desirable shot placement with mistakes in recovering the animal. A liver hit often leads to such a situation. The liver is tucked between the lungs and the rumen or stomach, so a shot that hits just slightly farther back than you would like will often hit the liver. If you think you may have hit the liver, remember these five steps to make sure you give yourself the best chance at recovery.

Back Off Right Away

My experience was a classic case of a liver hit—because of where I saw the arrow hit on impact, the deer’s reaction, and the dark red blood I found on the ground and arrow. After giving the deer a half hour, I made the mistake of going after it. I kicked him up about 100 yards from where I shot him. It was at that point I decided to depart the woods for the night and come back the next day. If ever in doubt, give the animal time.

Bring Help

I was hunting by myself, so I didn’t have the luxury of having a friend to help me find the deer – or so I thought. My uncle, who lived about an hour from the property, volunteered to come help me track. His help was invaluable because a liver hit typically produces only small, sporadic drops of blood. Several times my uncle located blood when I couldn’t. More eyeballs help. Also, check your local laws and regulations regarding the use of tracking dogs. You can’t underestimate the nose of a well-trained tracking K-9.

Get Rest and Stay Hydrated

Don’t miscalculate your rest and how you feel before and during the track. Bring water and snacks. This was especially true for me since it was September and temperatures still reached well into the 80s. If you become fatigued, your motor skills and senses suffer, and you may give up the trail too soon. Also, you need to maintain high morale, and that starts with feeling rested and nourished.

Track Your Tracking

Develop a system to mark the last spot you saw sign. Whether its tracks, blood or the site where you saw the animal, bring marking tape, glow sticks, toilet paper, or use the GPS application on your phone to track your progress. Don’t waste time and energy having to backtrack or – worse – getting lost. Take your time, and record your path.

Take a Weapon

A liver hit is a lethal shot, but it may take longer for the deer to expire than with a heart/lung hit. When you find the deer, it could still be alive. Bringing a weapon with you on any tracking job is a good idea but especially for a liver hit.

Fortunately, I was able to find my buck the next morning. He was on a trail only 100 yards from camp in the opposite direction from where I started to track. In total, the buck traveled about a mile and showed signs of bedding down on several occasions the night he was hit. There were times when blood was sparse and patience paid dividends. I’m hard-pressed to find a tougher animal than a whitetail, but every deer will succumb to a lethal liver hit. Follow these rules and stick with the trail and you will increase your chances of recovering your deer.

About the Author

Jeremy Juhasz is a public relations and marketing professional from Atlanta, Georgia. When he’s not in the office, Jeremy is an avid bowhunter who has chased whitetails in Western New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, West Virginia and Georgia. Follow him on Twitter @JeremyJuhasz for all things PR, hunting and Buffalo, New York sports.

Magnification: 3-9XPower Variability: VariableObjective Diameter: 40 mmLength/Weight/Tube Diameter: 12.3 inches/13.3 ounces/1 inchField of View: 34.10 – 14.10 feet/100 yardsEye Relief/Exit Pupil: 4.20 – 3.60 inches/13.3 – 4.4 mmReticle: Duplex, Wide Duplex, LR DuplexAdjustment Info: 1/4 MOA/ClickOptics Coatings: Fully Multi-CoatedFinish: Black MatteWaterproof/Shockproof: Yes/YesParallax Setting: 150 yardsAirgun rated: NoIlluminated Reticle: NoMounting Rings Included: No

Best Uses: Big Game Hunting, Varmint Hunting, Target Shooting

Update: Leupold has discontinued their VX-1 range of rifle scopes but have released the VX-Freedom line with the aim to provide affordable, US made optics to hunters and shooters. The VX-Freedom 3-9×40 is a great, affordable alternative to the discontinued VX-1 3-9×40. Check it out at Optics Planet and Amazon.

Leupold VX-1 Scope Review

The Leupold VX-1 3-9X40 rifle scope is the all-purpose big game hunting scope that’ll perform exceptionally well for a variety of hunters. It doesn’t matter that this scope is on the lower price end for Leupold, you’re getting excellent value for your buck. It is waterproof, fog-proof and recoil-proof and features Leupold’s Quantum Optical System. ‘What is that?’ I hear you ask, you will have to keep reading to get the answer.

Reviewers are chirping the same high praises I have for this scope, with a stunning rating from loads of feedback to date. In fact, many reviewers gave this VX-1 a perfect score. This scope is far from being a bottom-barrel scope considering it is one of Leupold’s most affordable optics.

Out of the four models in the VX-1 series, I had to go with the most versatile and practical 3-9X40 scope for this review. It’s no debate that these dimensions are the most commonly used among hunters, that and the fact that the price is well-suited for most hunters budgets, is what made this scope an obvious pick.

Although this Leupold is the first of the VX series and is at the bottom end for their line, it’s still better quality and a better buy than other brands high end scopes. Take a peek at the Q&A to get a full rundown of what this great value scope has to offer.

Pros:

• Price
• Aesthetic appeal
• Eco-friendly glass
• Excellent quality coatings
• Made in USA

Cons:

• No complex ballistic reticle

VX-1 3-9X40 Rifle Scope Q&A:

What is the Quantum Optical System on the VX-1 rifle scope?

This rifle scope, and all of the the VX (Variable Power) series scopes, have Leupold’s Quantum Optical System that combines sophisticated mechanisms, engineering and science expertise, and industry-leading optical designs to create a whole new experience with a variable power rifle scope.

They’re made with lead-free, environmentally-friendly glass compositions that’s undergone a thorough and scrutinous refining process to ensure the glass produces as much of a razor-sharp image quality as possible.

The short answer? It’s a souped-up and pimped-out system that gets you the best glass for the best image and best light transmission possible. You see better, you shoot better, you hunt better.

Is this a low budget rifle scope?

While the VX-1 has a low budget price, it’s actually a mid-range rifle scope that looks more like a premium one. I say low budget because you can get it for less than $200 when you buy online, in fact, we named it one of our top picks for a rifle scope under $200. Otherwise, you’re going to find it in the price range of anywhere between $200 to $450.

The sleek feature that also makes it look like a premium scope is the lack of slapping on intrusive brand labels and the like with contrasting white lettering. Leupold keeps it classy and simple with bare minimum gold accents on the black matte finish.

Where is the Leupold rifle scope made?

All of Leupold rifle scopes are designed, manufactured, assembled, and packaged in their factory in Oregon, USA. They haven’t been outsourced overseas to Japan, China, Germany, or the Philippines – not that outsourced rifle scopes aren’t good, but it’s satisfying to own American-made products that are unmatched.

What style reticles are available with the VX-1?

This Leupold VX-1 rifle scope has the popular, clean, and non-distracting reticle there is – the classic Duplex cross-hair.

The only other available reticle with this rifle scope is the LR Duplex that features two dots on the elevation cross hair below the center to serve as a basic bullet drop compensator.

Noteworthy Features:

• Quantum Optical System for the most advanced variable power ranging scope
• Leupold’s Multicoat 4 for 92% light transmission and pristine, crystal clear images
• 1/4 MOA clicks that are finger-adjustable for easy rotations
• Fully waterproof, recoil-proof, and fog-proof
• Available with the LR Duplex reticle for long distance shots
• American classic style eyepiece with low profile lockable ring
• Light-weight and compact for field hunting and scouting
• Easy to mount, super fast and simple to sight in
• Made in the USA

Our Verdict on the VX1 3-9X40

According to the bull’s-eye, the Leupold VX-1 3-9X40 rifle scope has more reach than you think – it’s all in the glass. The glass is world-class, the coatings are top-notch, and the quality is unbeatable. The only thing that it’s missing is a more advanced ballistic reticle option. It is available with a simple LR Duplex reticle, but it would be nice to see something that can match its quality and potential.

However, doubling your budget can land you the VX-3i 3.5-10X40 where you have the option of buying the Boone & Crockett reticle. Or, you could just sneak your way online into Leupold’s Custom Shop and upgrade your VX-1 with any of the 18 available reticles like the super-cool TMOA reticle. Ouch, we can already feel the penny pinching going on!

Moving on and staying on budget, the Redfield Revolution 3-9X40 scope would be the VX-1’s closest alternative. Maybe it has something to do with its relationship to Leupold? If you pay close attention to the full Revolution review, you’ll know exactly what we’re talking about!

The VX-1 has earned it’s place in the hunting world, and it’s on the Top 100 Best Seller’s List as a very popular and in-demand scope. To sum it up, we’ve already said it perfectly. With the VX-1, “You see better, you shoot better, you hunt better.” ‘Nuff said.

Update: Leupold has discontinued their VX-1 range of rifle scopes but have released the VX-Freedom line with the aim to provide affordable, US made optics to hunters and shooters. The VX-Freedom 3-9×40 is a great, affordable alternative to the discontinued VX-1 3-9×40. Check it out at Optics Planet and Amazon.

Further Reading

• 27 Tips to Help You Understand Rifle Scope Parallax Adjustments Today
• Atibal XP8 1-8×24 Riflescope Review (Second Focal Plane)
• ATN THOR LT 320 3-6X Thermal Rifle Scope Review
• ATN X-Sight 4K Buckhunter 5-20x Riflescope Review
• ATN X-Sight II 5-20X Night Vision Scope Review – HD Resolution (Day/Night Compatible)

Q: I am an avid reader of Bowhunter Magazine, and I look forward to each issue and the information and hunting stories you and the other writers contribute! I am planning an elk hunt in Montana with my brother, nephew, and close friend. Could you make some recommendations on arrow/broadhead choices for the hunt? Scott Cool, via e-mail

A: Thanks for your e-mail. First, let’s establish the number-one goal of every elk hunter — a bilateral pneumothorax — otherwise known as a double-lung collapse. If you only puncture one lung on an elk, the odds of recovery are close to zero. That makes maximum, and hopefully two-hole, penetration more important than on just about any other North American big game animal.

There are many factors to consider: draw weight/length, arrow speed/weight (both kinetic energy and momentum), and broadhead construction. All of these factors are intertwined in their importance. If you shoot low poundage, or a short draw length, your arrow speed will be adversely affected, necessitating a heavier arrow and a broadhead designed for maximum penetration. Heavier draw weights and longer draw lengths make the other factors less critical, but they are still important.

Personally, I tend to vary my arrow weight according to the species I am hunting. I may want a flatter trajectory for antelope, deer, or caribou, but for a very tough animal like an elk, I prefer an arrow in the 500-grain range. I have a 30.5-inch draw, and I typically shoot 67 pounds. Because this setup delivers plenty of energy and momentum, I can shoot most any quality broadhead from fixed blades to heavily built mechanicals like the Rage Trypan and not worry about penetration.

We don’t have the space to get into all the physics, and there is plenty of dispute among bowhunters on this topic, but without knowing your specifics I would recommend an arrow weighing at least 450 grains (total arrow/broadhead) for elk. An arrow’s front of center (FOC) is also important to penetration, and I strive for at least 12 to 13 percent or more.

Yes, if your draw weight and arrow speed are exceptional (well over 300 fps), you might get by with a lighter, flatter arrow, but I still wouldn’t go below 400 grains under any circumstances. Will it work, yes, but if the shot is in any way marginal, a lighter arrow will not likely bail you out. If your draw weight and arrow speed is average (under 280 fps), your total arrow weight should go up. I know that sounds counterintuitive, but consider the recurve archer who is shooting only 190 to 200 fps and using arrows of 600 grains and up. They certainly don’t go down in arrow weight. In almost any scenario, a heavier arrow will penetrate better on a live animal. And no test medium can replicate the real thing.

Broadhead design does matter, but mostly in a basic sense. If you start with a well-tuned bow, there is no question the best penetrating broadhead is a cut-on-contact, fixed two-blade design like a Muzzy Phantom, Magnus Stinger, or Iron Will broadhead. A fixed-blade broadhead and certain mechanical heads are next, and then comes the really wide-cut mechanical broadheads. If you hope to drive a two-inch-wide broadhead completely through an elk, you had better have some energy and a heavy arrow behind it. If you do, it’s devastating.

By now, you can see that all these factors are codependent, which is why there is so much debate. If you’re an average archer shooting 65 pounds at a 28-inch draw, I would shoot an arrow/broadhead combo that weighs around 475 grains (with decent FOC), and a strong, super-sharp broadhead that gives you confidence. Then hunt your way close and drive it through both lungs. Good luck.

The easiest way to identify a tree is through their leaves, bark, fruits, and tree seed pods identification. While some have distinct leaf colors and shapes, others cannot easily be identified with the leaves, especially during certain parts of the year.

However, it is pretty easy to identify trees with their seeds, especially the ones with distinct seed pods. Some of the trees, like those in the bean family,9 have long pods that make it relatively easy to identify them.

Have you ever wondered which trees release those ‘helicopter’ seeds? This complete guide has everything you need to know.

A seed pod is a distinctive way for a tree to propagate, and nature has some very interesting varieties! By using the tree seed pods identification charts below, you’ll be able to pinpoint lots and lots of tree species.

75 Species of Trees With Seed Pods

We know how important trees are in slowing down and reversing climate change and so you might be thinking “How much carbon does a tree capture?” Did you know that some trees store more carbon than others? Learning these different species is more interesting than you think.

Most trees with seed pods are easy to identify because they classify the tree and let you know which botanic family it belongs to. There are so many trees with seed pods that are distributed worldwide.

Even though some grow in their native region, most of them have been spread worldwide. The growth of trees in an area highly depends on the conditions required for the tree to thrive.

For example, you will find most palm and mangrove trees along coastlines because that is where they find their conducive environment to thrive. The chart below is a comprehensive list of trees with seed pods of different kinds.

Identification Guide: Tree Seed Pods Identification

Sometimes, it helps to know what an entire tree or most parts look like. That way, you can automatically identify the tree with any part, including tree seed pods. The tree types and pictures below will give you a foundation on most tree types and what their seed pods look like.

How To Identify Tree Seed Pods: Identification Chart With Tree Seed Pod Identification Pictures

Tree TypeSize1. Maples1.18” to 2” (3 – 5 cm) long2. Catalpas8-20″ long and ¼-½” wide3. Southern Catalpa12-inch (30-cm) long4. Ash2” (5 cm) long5. Hickory2-5 cm (0.8-2.0 in) long and 1.5-3 cm (0.6-1.2 in) diameter

Tree TypeSize6. Chestnut10-30 cm long and 5-7 cm wide7. Sweet Gum1 1/4″ – 1 1/2″ in diameter8. Kentucky Coffee Tree5” to 10” (12 – 25 cm) long and up to 2” (5 cm) wide9. Eastern Redbud3.5 inches long, 0.5 inches wide10. Apples8 mm (0.3 inch)

Tree TypeSize11. Black Locust3 to 4 inches in length12. Northern Catalpa24” (60 cm) long13. Mimosa4” to 8” (1.2 – 2.4 cm) long and 1” (2.5 cm) wide14. Acacia10” (26 cm) long15. Honeylocust6-14″ long and 1-1½” across at maturity

Tree TypeSize16. Buckeye1-2” diameter17. Beech0.5” to 1” (1.12 – 2.5 cm) long18. Sycamore1” (2.5 cm) in diameter19. Silver Maple1.18” to 2” (3 – 5 cm) long20. Elm0.5” (1.22 cm) across

Tree TypeSize21. Cladrastis Kentukea2.5-4” long22. Carob Tree13 – 30 cm in length and about 2.5 cm wide23. Desert-Willow8 inch24. Basswood5 to 10 mm (0.2 to 0.4 in) in diameter25. Yellow Kowhai2.2 inches in length

Tree TypeSize26. Coral Tree12-inch- long27. Western Redbud1½ to 3½ inch long28. Blue Palo Verde1.5 to about 4 inches29. Purple Orchid Tree15 to 30 cm long30. Koa Tree6″ (15 cm) long and 1-1.5″ (2-4 cm) wide

Tree TypeSize31. Japanese Angelica4 mm in diameter32. Yellowwood Tree2½ to 4″ long33. Conifersbetween 1” and 6” (2.5 – 15 cm)34. Silver Birch1-1 1/2 inches long35. Catclaw Acacia3-5″ long

Tree TypeSize36. Screwbean Mesquite2-6″ (5-15 cm.) in length37. Persian Silk Tree4-8″ (10-20 cm.) long, ¾” (2 cm.)38. Royal Poinciana12” and 24” (30 – 60 cm) long39. Cape Wattleup to 10 cm in lengt40. Trumpet Treesabout 3″ (7.6 cm) long

Tree TypeSize41. Horse Chestnut1” to 2” (2.5 – 5 cm) in diameter42. Pine Tree0.78” to 23” (2 – 60 cm)43. Spruce Tree1” and 6” (2.5 – 15 cm)44. Fir Tree10” (25 cm)45. Jacaranda Tree3” (7.5 cm) across

Tree TypeSize46. Hornbeam1″ long47. Linden0.2” (0.5 cm) in diameter48. Tree of Heaven1-2″ long49. Common Hoptree2-2.5 cm (0.79-0.98 in) across50. Tulip Tree3” (7.5 cm) long

Tree TypeSize51. Tipu Tree50-60mm long52. Green Ash2” (5 cm) long53. Australian Black Bean Treeup to 20cm in length54. Lilac Tree¾ inch-long55. Southern Magnolia Tree1″-3″ in length

Tree TypeSize56. Sausage Treegrow up to 10 cm in diameter and 60 cm (2 feet) long57. Ludlow’s Tree Peony4¾-7 × 2-3⅓ cm58. Orchid Tree6-9″ long59. Red Maple Tree¾ to 1 inch60. Golden Rain Tree1¼- 2½ inches long

Tree TypeSize61. Cacao Treelength up to 35 cm (14″) and a width at the centre of 12 cm (4.7″)62. Eucalyptus Camaldulensis Tree2-5 mm (0.079-0.197 in) long and 4-10 mm (0.16-0.39 in) wide on a pedicel 3-12 mm (0.12-0.47 in) long63. Kalumpang Sarawak Treeabout 10 centimeters long64. Pandanus Treea diameter of 4-20 cm (1.6-7.9″)65. Korean Spindleberry1/2” across

Tree TypeSize66. Delonix Regia30 – 75 cm long, 5 – 8 cm wide67. Koelreuteria Paniculata3-6 cm long and 2-4 cm broad68. Ceiba Pentandra15 cm (6 in)69. Albizia Lebbeck Tree12 – 35 cm long70. Joshua Tree2.5-2″ long

Tree TypeSize71. Guanacaste Tree3 – 4 1/2″ long72. Australian Tree Hakea4-5 cm in diameter on average73. Mangrove Tree6″ (15 cm)74. Kapok Tree15 cm (6″) long75. Paulownia Tomentosa Foxglove Tree3-4 centimeters (1+1⁄8-1+5⁄8 in) long

There are advantages and disadvantages to having a tree. Some would be excited to know about the pros and cons of redbud trees. Despite the limited lifespan of these lovely, vibrantly colored trees, they have greatly benefited us and the environment. Spend some time learning about these trees, and prepare to have your mind blown by what you discover.

Popular Types of Trees With Seed Pods

Not all the trees on the list above are common and easy to come across in residential areas. However, you could come across some of them in forests or deserts. Below is a list of the most commonly planted seed pod trees. You have probably come across most of the trees on this list.

Popular Tree TypeSeed Pod DescriptionSizeMaple TreeWing-shaped, papery – helicopters, samaras3 – 5cm longOak TreeCup-shaped cupule, green-brown – acorn1-6 cmPalm TreeBall-likeDepends on the speciesCatalpa TreeCylindrical-shaped, cigar-like, green, dark brown when mature30 – 60 cmLocust TreeSpirally twisted, flat, dark brown, large, with oval seeds10 – 20 cm longAmerican Elm TreeFlat, oval-shaped, disc-like, papery, light green1.22 cm acrossAsh TreePaddle-shaped, oval, large, brown, papery5 cm longBeech TreeAngular-shaped, three sides, brown, hard shell with spiky burs- cupules1.12 – 2.5 cm long

Maple Tree Seed Pods Identification

Maple trees come in different species. They are easily identifiable by their bark, leaves, or seed pods. However, the easiest way is through the papery wing-shaped seed pods, often called samaras.

These samaras are joined at the center, and once they detach from the tree, they have a unique whirling motion. Maple seed pods will therefore be called helicopters, whirligigs, and whirlers. The seed pods grow between 1.18 and 2 inches long.

Once the seed pods have detached from the tree, the whirling action takes them far away from the tree, dispersing the seeds in different places. Maple trees have distinctive features,6 including leaves with pointed lobes. The bark has a gray-brown or reddish-brown color that you cannot miss.

Another identifying feature of the maple tree species is that they grow tall, some growing up to 150ft. Some popular maple tree species are the Red Maple, Silver Maple, and Japanese Maple.

All these trees have different features in color and growing conditions, but they all have samaras with helicopter action. Some grow along river banks, and others can survive pretty well in relatively dry areas. Maple seeds are also edible; the smaller the seed, the sweeter it is. The sizes differ in different species.

Oak Tree Seed Pods Identification (Oak Tree Seeds With Pods)

The fruit of an oak tree is called an oak nut or acorn. It has a tough protective shell that looks like a cup and has a cap. It is, therefore, quite easy to identify oak trees through the cupules or seed pods.

Various oak tree species have distinctive acorns. The acorns differ in shape and size depending on the oak tree species. Some have a smooth cap, others a scaly one, and others have hair.

It also differs in shape; some are oval, while others are ball-shaped. The common colors in mature acorns among the oak tree species are black, red, and brown. However, all the acorns will be green before maturity.

The seed pods have two seeds inside, varying in size from small to large. Small acorns are about 0.5 inches, while the bigger ones can go up to 3 inches in diameter. Oaknuts are edible, with the sweetest ones being from Pin Oak, Cork Oak, and Burr Oak.

However, tanning in acorns is toxic to human beings. It also makes raw oak nuts bitter and untasty. The best way to remove the tanning is to soak the nuts in water and drain them until it is clear.

Identification: Palm Tree Seed Pods

One of the trees that you may find almost everywhere is a palm tree. Ever wonder how many types of palm trees are there?

Palm trees belong to the Arecaceae family and have over 2600 species. The trees grow in warm countries near tropical beaches. However, some species can also grow indoors in cold or temperate climates.

The most common palm tree species are the Pygmy date palm and the coconut palm, which are common along coastlines. There is also the Christmas palm tree and Mediterranean dwarf palm, among others.

It is not easy to miss a palm tree because of its unique characteristics. Every part of the tree can be used to identify it, including the trunk and the seed pods. Palm trees have feather-like, fan-shaped leaves that are long and evergreen.

The trunk is also a good identifier as it has fibers and grows extremely tall in some species. Date palms will grow to about 75ft, while coconut palms can reach 100ft. There are also dwarf palm trees that grow up to 9ft, making it easy to have them as houseplants.

The tallest palm trees are about 200ft, equivalent to a 25-story building. One palm tree species with easily identifiable seed pods is the coconut tree. It has a huge green or yellow fruit that turns into a hard brown seed when it matures. It also has spiky hairs on it and can be quite heavy.

Related Reading: What Are Carbon Offsetting Companies and How To Find the Best One?

Catalpa Tree Seed Pods

Catalpa seeds have long seed pods that dangle from the tree and are very easy to identify. The tree has trumpet-shaped blooms that are white or yellow in color, and the leaves are heart-shaped. These flowers are fragrant, and the tree bark is usually brown or greyish in color.

The Northern Catalpa and the Southern Catalpa are the most common species of the catalpa trees.10 The seed pods appear on the trees in fall and could go to Winter and Spring. However, they are very distinctive because of their slender and long features.

The trees grow very fast and do well in warm temperate places. The trees also live long and could grow up to 50ft above the ground. It has a rounded canopy that spreads out, making the tree perfect for backyards as an ornamental shade tree.

It is easy to distinguish between Northern and Southern catalpas through the seed pods. While the Northern ones grow up to 24 inches long, the others only grow to 12 inches. The pods are green but eventually turn brown and split open, exposing winged seeds.

The seeds are then carried by the wind and dispersed all over. While the catalpa seeds are not toxic to human beings, they lack nutritional content or good taste. Therefore, people do not eat them even if they look like beans.

The shape and structure of the seed pods have earned the tree names like cigar tree, smoking bean tree, and Indian cigar tree. Each node on the catalpa tree has three leaves with a smooth margin and a heart shape. It is a perfect tree to plant in residential gardens.

Locust Tree Seed Pods (Black Locust Tree Seeds and Honey Locust Tree Seed Pods)

Locust trees have many identifiable features ranging from the trunk, flowers, leaves, and spirally twisted seed pods. The tree has white flowers that dangle in clusters and can grow up to 100ft.

Its trunk has thorns, and the leaves are large and pinnate. Locust trees grow very fast and belong to the Fabaceae family. The two most common types of plants are the Honey locust and Black locust trees.7

Even though most of the locust tree species are full of long and sharp thorns, some species are thornless. Therefore, the best way to identify locust trees is through the long and distinct seed pods that hang from the tree.

The seed pods on locust trees can grow up to 20 cm long and have oval seeds inside. It is important to note that different locust tree species have different seeds. While some are edible, and even animals enjoy eating them, others have very toxic compounds.

Locust trees also produce highly durable hardwood that can be used to make furniture and small boats. The trees are also excellent for shade and look beautiful when the flowers bloom in the fall.

American Elm Tree Seeds With Pods (Elm Tree Seed Pods)

Elm trees are popular in residential areas because of their wide canopy that provides shade and the wood it produces. The trees have rot-resistant wood that is flexible but does not split. It is, therefore, excellent for making musical instruments and bows.

While it has many identifiable features, the elm tree’s best feature to use when trying to identify the tree is its seed pods. They have samaras, which in this case have a light papery casing and are round and small.

They grow in clusters and have a light green color that makes them easy to identify. Once the samaras have matured, a single seed forms inside and detaches from the tree in Spring. The tree’s bark is also quite distinct, with furrows and a grayish-brown color.

The trunk and the branches will have a lace-like texture that makes them easy to identify. There are various species of elm trees, with the most common ones being the American, Florida, and Chinese elm trees.

The Chinese elm has a slightly different bark from the rest, but it also has papery samaras. Therefore, the best way to identify elm trees is through the seed pods’ structure and shape.

Ash Tree Seeds With Pods (Ash Tree Seed Pods)

Ash tree seed pods are flat,8 oval, and papery, making it very easy to identify the trees. They look like dried leaves as they hang from the tree branches. They can grow up to 3 inches tall, and the fruit matures in the fall.

The ash tree seed pods are also called samaras. The samaras grow on female trees only because it is the one that produces fruit. Due to the fallen samaras’ mess on the ground, most people prefer to plant male ash trees in their backyards.

The tree has compound leaves with five pairs of leaflets on each one. The leaflets are pointed, and each leaf has a terminal leaflet. The standard height of ash trees is between 60 and 80ft. The bark is grayish-brown in color, and the leaves are about 12 inches long.

The tree seed pods identification on ash trees is made easy by the brown color of the matured seed pods. Before maturity, the pods are green and easy to recognize because of their length. Ash trees come in various species like the Green and White Ash trees. While each has its characteristics, both species have the same types of seed pods on their female trees.

Beech Tree Seeds With Pods

Beech trees are colorful shade trees that form a round, dense crown with branches and leaves. They have beechnuts that make the tree easily identifiable. The flowers are in clusters and start green-yellow in color. However, they later turn into beautiful Autumn shades of yellow, golden brown, and range.

The tree has 13 species, the most common being European and American beech trees. The trees are resistant to diseases and pests, which makes them excellent trees for huge landscapes.

The leaves have an elliptical shape and look glossy with a green color when young. They grow up to 6 by 4 inches. You can see a serrated look on the leaf if you sift through it. The beautiful bright colors on the tree are one of the most direct beech tree identification.

On the other hand, the fruit has a brown color with a shell with three sides and spikes all over it. It is an easy seed pod to identify. Beech trees have a dense crown, which is why it needs enough room to grow. The trees can also grow up to 80 ft.

Tree Seed Pods Identification Florida: Popular Types of Tree Seeds in Florida

Florida has a good climate that makes it possible to have various tree species throughout the landscapes.11 You will find different seed pod trees within Florida. Some trees are planted in backyards, and others in forests and landscapes.

Some of the seed pod trees you will likely find in Florida are palm trees, oak trees, magnolia, and maple trees. All these trees are identifiable through their distinctive seed pods. While some have samaras, others have cupules.

The trees from the Fabaceae family will have long seed pods with multiple seeds inside and split open to disperse. Additionally, some trees in Florida have edible fruits, and others have toxins.

When living in Florida, it is important to know which seed pods belong to which tree. That helps you know which trees will do well in your backyard and which will likely give you much work to maintain.

The full chart above on the various types of seed pod trees and the explanations on popular trees will help you identify tree seed pods in Florida. You can plant a tree with full knowledge of what to expect when the fruit matures.

Trees With Seed Pods in Colorado

The most common tree with seed pods in Colorado is the catalpa tree. It has bean-like pods that have winged seeds inside. It is, therefore, easy for the wind to disperse the seeds, which is why Colorado has many catalpa trees in different locations.

Aside from the Western Catalpa, Colorado has other seed pod trees like Golden Rain, Cottonwood, Blue Spruce, Oaks, and Fir. All these trees have distinct seed pods that distinguish one tree from the other.

Nowadays, more people are taking an active role in protecting the environment. They may be searching for tree seed pods because they are concerned about how many trees cut down each year and want to learn how tree planting carbon offset may help.

Understanding these seed pods is the first step; the next is learning how to grow them. People are making sure that what they are planting endures and fulfills its function – to beautify and fight climate change.

It is crucial to be aware of the benefits of planting trees if you want to achieve environmental sustainability. Remember that internal transformation must precede external change. By using an eco footprint calculator, you should be able to pinpoint the acts that had an adverse influence on the environment and make decisions to lessen those effects.

Related Reading: How Many Trees Are in the World?

With the help of this guide, you will be able to identify different types of trees by looking at their pods and other features like the leaves, bark, and color. Colorado provides an excellent climate for all these different tree species to thrive.

Most tree species are identifiable through leaves, flowers, bark, and trunk. However, some require more than that to know which tree it is.

This tree seed pods identification chart can help you identify trees and protect them to help the planet.

Frequently Ask Questions About Tree Seed Pods Identification