DISCLAIMER: This is a guide. Everything listed within is for information purposes only. All loads should be worked up carefully. We have seen loads that require as much as two grains of charge weight adjustment from one powder lot to another. We have seen as much as five grains of powder adjustment required between different brands of brass. Failure to start low could result in damaged equipment or injury. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

7 MM PRC Cartridge Guide

Here we go again. Hornady announced the 7 PRC. In a market with many similar options, why do we need another? The short answer is that the others are poor designs by today’s standards. I imagine the design goals for the 7 PRC were much the same as the 6.5 and 300 PRC. Like the other PRCs, the parent case of the 7 PRC is the 375 Ruger. Hornady surprised everyone by splitting the difference between the other PRCs. The 2.28″ case length is perfect for a 7mm magnum cartridge. The number one selling point of the PRC cartridges is the modern throat design. The 7 PRC’s freebore of .233” makes it very flexible. It is not too long for the shorter bearing surface 180s and not too short for the larger bullets like the 195 Berger. At SAAMI length, the 7mm PRC will fit inside the 3.4” magazine boxes of last century’s design in SAAMI form. With the larger bullets, it will exceed the 3.4” magazine, but will not need a Wyatt’s box.

7MM Cartridge Options

There are numerous other options when considering a 7mm rifle. On the larger side, we have the 7mm Remington Magnum, the 7mm LRM, the 7mm RUM, and the 28 Nosler. You have the 7mm Winchester Short mag with identical case capacity. Then the 7 RSAUM is on the smaller side. So, what does the 7 PRC offer that the others do not? Let me rule out the 7 RUM and 28 Nosler right off the bat. They are too overbore for me. They wear throats out very quickly, are more prone to carbon rings, and are more difficult to keep in tune. They have short throats and need a custom reamer to make full use of the case’s abilities.

Let’s focus on the 7 RSAUM, 7 WSM, 7 Rem mag, and 7 LRM. Of the bunch, the 7 RSAUM is going to be the most accurate on average and will stay in tune with less work, yet it suffers from a few problems. At SAAMI length, longer bullets occupy too much case capacity. This is a major reason why it has disappeared from factory offerings. When built with a custom reamer and rifle, it is still a great option. The 7 WSM has the same capacity as the 7 PRC, but it suffers from the same shortcomings as the RSAUM. The 7mm Remington Magnum has anywhere from 1-3 grains more H2O capacity than the PRC. Once again, it suffers from a throat that is too short for modern bullets. It remains a great cartridge but has room for improvement. This is the main cartridge the PRC will have to outperform, as far as sales go, to stay around. The 7 LRM is a nearly perfect cartridge for the caliber and the bullets we currently have available. The only issue with it is it is not SAAMI-approved. This makes it a non-starter for production rifles. When compared to these options, the 7 PRC leaves little to be desired in a 7mm cartridge. The case capacity is perfect and the freebore is forgiving. These reasons are why the 7 PRC is going to be the best 7mm cartridge available in factory chamberings. If the success of the 6.5 and 300 PRC is any sign, this cartridge will get tons of aftermarket support. Hornady’s marketing will make this cartridge very popular. The anticipated aftermarket support will be what ensure this cartridge sticks around.

Why Choose The 7MM PRC?

Ok, so none of this tells you why you would build a custom rifle chambered in this cartridge. I have always loved the 7mm cartridges, with the 7 WSM being one of my favorites. Its capacity seems to be the sweet spot. The 7 PRC has the same capacity as the 7 WSM. It is slimmer and longer. This should make it easier to feed from a long-action magazine. I have found the short magnum cartridges don’t feed well from short actions. Because of this, I don’t see the point of short magnums in short actions. The 7 PRC will not quite compete with the 7 RSAUM in the raw accuracy department, but it is close. It will yield more velocity on average. This will translate to smaller horizontal dispersion in adverse conditions at long range. On average, it should also shoot flatter. It will run right with the 7 Rem Mag without needing a custom chamber. These are the reasons this cartridge is likely to be a success. Let’s get into the load information.

Bullets

We are choosing to focus on 175 and larger bullets for now. When time permits, I will work on some 168 Berger data. I don’t see the point of shooting smaller in a .284 when you could shoot the 156 Bergers from a .264. Any of the 168-180 grain bullets will be right at home in this case. My favorites are the Berger 180 VLD and Hybrids, as well as the 180 ELDM. Testing with the 190s and 195s will continue and this guide will be updated when more data is collected. Hornady kindly provided us with the load data provided below. I checked it with 180 Bergers and 180 ELDMs, except for the RL22 loads. This is because RL22 was too temperature sensitive in my previous testing.

******The loads in the above chart are all max loads. WORK UP!******

Powders

The 180s will do very well with the normal powders for this sized case. H4831SC and RL23 should offer good accuracy and low extreme spreads in velocity. They generally will be on the faster side in burn rate, which will yield lower max velocities. Retumbo, N565, and RL26 will perform well and will yield the fastest velocities. My barrel did not yield great accuracy with Retumbo or N565. If I were set on using these two powders, I would try some different primers. RL26 was accurate in my rifle but is not quite as stable as H1000. My favorite powder for the case is H1000. It provides great accuracy and extreme spreads. Velocity will fall right in between the other powders. I have settled on the low node with H1000 and 180 Hybrids at 2895 fps out of a 26” barrel. The case can go quite a bit faster, but the node was just too wide and stable to ignore. The larger bullets will still do great with these powders and will allow the use of slower powders like N570.

******While these may work in our rifles, they may be too hot in yours. WORK UP!******

Primers

Any of the large rifle primers should work in this case. In my experience, with this case capacity, the faster powders do best with Federal 210Ms and CCI BR2s. The slower powders do well with CCI 250s or Federal 215Ms. Don’t be afraid to experiment. Most of my testing was done with CCI 250s. Forum member 8nbait was having better luck with Federal 210Ms.

At the time of launch, the only case options will be Hornady and RCC. My testing was done with Hornady brass. Forum members 8nbait and Weatherbyfan were using RCC.

Comparing 6.5 vs 7 vs 30

Bullet mass and impact velocity should be heavily considered when choosing a cartridge. The correct choice will ensure ethical kills at your maximum range. The bullet mass is going to have a direct impact on the recoil. For some, this needs to be considered. I will never advocate shooting elk with calibers smaller than .308. However, 30-caliber magnums are not needed for deer and antelope-sized game. The 7mm caliber is a great choice for deer and smaller game. Too many people focus on energy as a killing power indicator. Based on countless instances of anecdotal evidence, this is just not the case. Bullet mass and impact velocity are better predictors of how fast an animal will go down. This mainly applies to frangible bullets, which we prefer over bonded bullets. Below is a comparison between a few different cartridges in each caliber. You will see they look very similar on paper. Just keep in mind bullet mass means more shrapnel to destroy the vitals of your target.

7MM PRC Conclusion

If you take a look at a reloading manual, you will not see much of a difference between the 7 PRC, the 7WSM, and the 7 Rem mag. What you are gaining is a better-designed factory chamber. The longer freebore will allow a reloader to make better use of modern bullets. The 7 PRC’s modern design will lead to a much better selection of factory ammunition. However, if the success of the other PRCs is an indicator, this cartridge will continue to grow. It will be a hit with those using factory ammunition as well as reloaders. The cartridge will be great for all hunters. Whether you choose a factory rifle or go the custom route, the 7 PRC is worthy of your consideration. The link below will take you to a thread on the forum with members’ input on loads that have worked for them.

Comment or ask Ryan questions here.

Watch the 7mm PRC Cartridge Guide Video here.

If you are an outdoors enthusiast, you may be considering purchasing a PCP air rifle for your next hunting trip. While these rifles can offer lethal accuracy and power at long distances, there is one important factor to consider—scopes. Do PCP air rifles need special scopes?

Understanding the Scope Needs of PCP Air Rifles

The answer is NO. Any scope will work on a PCP as there is little to no recoil. In the case of spring air guns, however, a special scope must be used due to the significant amount of recoil generated by the springs when firing. This type of scope has a reticle braced both in front and in the back to absorb shock.

For other types of air rifles (e.g. PCP or CO2 guns) you can use any scope but it is a good idea to get one with AO or side focus down to 10 or 15 yards.

This feature enables you to quickly adjust the focus on your target without having to take your eyes off it, giving you an advantage when tracking the game at close range.

Additionally, for hunting purposes it is also a good idea to get a holdover reticle that takes into account the trajectory of air guns—this style of the reticle will help compensate for bullet drop so that you can make more accurate shots from longer distances.

All in all, while PCP rifles do not require special scopes like some other types of air guns do, they still benefit from specific features like AO/side focus and holdover reticles that make shooting more accurate and efficient. By understanding what type of scope your particular firearm needs and investing in quality optics, you will have everything you need for successful hunting trips with your PCP air rifle!

If you are an avid outdoors enthusiast or a survivalist, you know that having the right gear is crucial to your success. One of the most important tools in your arsenal is a good bushcraft saw. Whether you’re camping, hiking, or backpacking, a bushcraft or survival saw can be incredibly useful for cutting firewood, clearing trails, and more. But with so many options on the market, it can be overwhelming to choose the best one for your needs. In this ultimate guide, we will explore everything you need to know about choosing the best bushcraft saw for survival and wilderness adventures.

What is a bushcraft saw?

Before we dive into how to choose the best bushcraft saw, let’s first define what it is. A bushcraft saw, or survival saw, is a type of saw that is specifically designed for use in the outdoors. It is typically smaller and more portable than a traditional saw, axe, or hatchet, making it easier to carry with you on hikes or camping trips. Bushcraft saws come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and they are often used for cutting through small to medium-sized branches and logs.

Why is having a good bushcraft saw important?

A bushcraft saw is a vital tool for anyone who spends time in the outdoors or in the wilderness. It can be used for a variety of tasks, including:

• Building shelter
• Gathering firewood
• Clearing trails
• Processing game
• Making tools and other items

Without a good bushcraft saw, these tasks can be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to accomplish. Having the right survival saw can make all the difference in a wilderness survival situation.

Best Bushcraft Saws for Survival

Now that you know what factors to consider when choosing a bushcraft saw, let’s take a look at some of the top bushcraft saws on the market:

Agawa Boreal21 Folding Bow Saw – EDITOR’S CHOICE – Best Bushcraft Saw – Overall

The Agawa Boreal21 Folding Saw is a versatile and durable saw designed for outdoor enthusiasts. The saw has a 21-inch blade that’s made from high-quality hardened stainless steel, making it tough enough to cut through hard wood and thick branches with ease. The handle folds and snaps into place during assembly, without even needing to touch the blade, and the trapezium-shaped frame geometry increases the range of motion while sawing. Additionally, it offers good clearance above the saw blade, allowing you to cut through larger logs without having to change the angle.

One of the standout features of the Agawa Boreal21 Folding Saw is its folding design. The saw can be folded down to a compact size, making it easy to carry in your backpack or pocket. When you need to use it, simply unfold the saw, and it’s ready to use. The saw also comes with a durable nylon sheath that makes it easy to store and transport.

This saw is also lightweight, coming in at 18.7 ounces. The only downside is that it’s a bit pricier than some of its competitors, but its quality construction, ease of use, and sharp cutting action might just pay off in the long run.

An alternative to the AGAWA folding bow saw is the Gerber Gear Freescape Camp Saw.

Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Saw – Best Budget-Friendly Bushcraft Folding Saw

If you’re looking for a reliable, efficient saw for your bushcraft trip, the Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Saw is an excellent choice. The Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Pruning Saw features a 10-inch blade that utilizes pull-back action. The saw blade’s 3-sided razor teeth easily cut through small to medium branches up to 6 inches in diameter. The replaceable curved blade folds into the handle and the saw features a safety lock to prevent accidental opening when not in use. The Corona RazorTOOTH Saw Folding Saw also has a comfortable, ergonomic grip that reduces hand fatigue and makes it easy to use for extended periods of time.

The Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Pruning Saw is a durable and affordable option for those on a budget. While it may not be suitable for heavy-duty tasks or thicker branches, it is a great choice for most wood-cutting tasks you’ll face in the wilderness.

Silky Bigboy Folding Saw – Best Survival Saw for Thicker Wood

If you anticipate the need to cut down larger branches or small trees on your next bushcraft trip, the Silky Bigboy Folding Saw may be the right bushcraft saw for the trip. The Silky Bigboy Folding Saw features a 14.2-inch curved blade made from premium Japanese steel. The laser-cut, extra large blade teeth provide efficient cutting of even dry, hardwood. The handle of the saw is rubber-cushioned for comfort and improved grip.

While it’s one of the larger folding saws on the market, the Bigbog saw weighs in at just 1lb. Overall, the Silky Bigboy Folding Saw is a high-quality saw that offers excellent cutting performance and durability. Its large blade size and curved design make it a great option for a variety of cutting tasks, and its lightweight and folding design make it easy to carry and store.

HME Pocket Chainsaw Survival Saw

The Hunting Made Easy (HME) Pocket Chainsaw is designed for convenience and portability. Its compact and lightweight design allows it to easily fold up for storage in a backpack or pocket. Heavy-duty nylon handles provide a secure grip to the 36-inch high carbon steel chain. The chain features bi-directional cutting teeth to help it tackle tough cutting jobs in the wilderness, allowing you to easily cut through branches and logs.

The HME Pocket Chainsaw is perfect for those who will need to cut wood but don’t want the weight or bulk of a larger folding saw or axe.

Sven Folding Saw

The Sven Saw is a classic camping and bushcraft saw that has been around for over 60 years. Available in either a 21-inch blade or a 15-inch blade, the Sven Saw features a unique, all-metal folded saw design. The saws fold into a compact, ruler-like form that’s just 1.5″ wide and 5/8″ thick. The Sven Saws are also very lightweight, with the 21″ saw weighing less than 14 ounces and the 15″ Sven Saw weighing 11 ounces. The Swedish steel blades are crafted to last for 15-30 years and can easily cut through trunks or branches for firewood, clearing trails, and more.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Bushcraft Saw

When choosing a bushcraft saw, there are several factors to consider. Here are some of the most important ones:

Blade Types: Finding the Right Saw for Your Needs

The blade is one of the most important components of a bushcraft saw. There are several different blade types to choose from, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. Here are a few of the most common blade types you’ll encounter when shopping for a bushcraft saw:

• Crosscut Blades: These blades have teeth that are angled towards the handle, which makes them ideal for cutting across the grain of the wood. They’re typically used for cutting smaller branches and limbs.
• Rip Blades: Rip blades have teeth that are angled perpendicular to the handle, which makes them better suited for cutting with the grain of the wood. They’re typically used for cutting larger logs and branches.
• Combination Blades: As the name suggests, combination blades offer the best of both worlds. They have teeth that are angled towards the handle on one side and perpendicular on the other, making them versatile enough to handle a variety of cutting tasks.

Handle Materials: Comfort and Durability in the Wilderness

The handle of your bushcraft saw is another important factor to consider. It should be comfortable to hold, even after extended use, and durable enough to withstand the rigors of the outdoors. Here are a few of the most common handle materials you’ll encounter:

• Wood: Wooden handles are comfortable to grip and can be customized to fit your hand. However, they may not be as durable as other materials and can be prone to cracking or splitting over time.
• Plastic: Plastic handles are lightweight and durable, making them a popular choice for many outdoor enthusiasts. They may not be as comfortable to hold as other materials, but they’re typically very affordable.
• Rubber: Rubber handles provide a good grip, even in wet or slippery conditions. They’re also comfortable to hold and can be very durable. However, they may be more expensive than other handle materials.

Saw Size and Weight: Balancing Portability and Cutting Power

The size and weight of your bushcraft saw will also play a role in how well it performs in the outdoors. A larger saw will typically be more powerful and able to cut through larger logs and branches, but it will also be heavier and more cumbersome to carry. A smaller saw, on the other hand, will be more portable but may not have as much cutting power.

When choosing a saw, it’s important to find the right balance between size and weight. Consider the types of tasks you’ll be using your saw for, as well as how far you’ll need to carry it, to determine the best size and weight for your needs.

Folding vs. Fixed Blade Saws: Which One is Right for You?

One of the biggest decisions you’ll need to make when choosing a bushcraft saw is whether to go with a folding or fixed blade design. Both types have their pros and cons, so it’s important to weigh them carefully before making a decision.

Folding saws are typically more portable than fixed blade saws since they can be folded up and easily stored in a backpack or gear bag. They’re also generally safer to carry, since the blade can be folded away when not in use. However, folding saws may not be as durable or as strong as fixed blade saws, and they may not be able to handle heavy-duty cutting tasks.

Fixed blade saws, on the other hand, are typically stronger and more durable than folding saws. They’re often designed with larger, more powerful blades that can handle heavy-duty cutting tasks with ease. However, they can be more cumbersome to carry, and the blade is always exposed, which can be a safety concern.

Different types of Bushcraft Saws

Choosing the best bushcraft saw requires an understanding of the different types of saws available and how they can benefit your needs.

1. Folding Saw

Folding saws are one of the most popular types of bushcraft saws. They are compact and lightweight, making them easy to carry in a backpack or pocket. Folding saws typically have a blade that folds into the handle for safe storage and transport.

Folding saws come in a variety of blade lengths and tooth patterns, which can affect their cutting ability. Generally, they are ideal for cutting through smaller branches and logs. Some folding saws have aggressive teeth for cutting through thicker branches, while others have finer teeth for smoother cuts.

2. Bow Saws

Bow saws are another type of bushcraft saw that has been used for centuries. A bow saw is a type of frame saw that features a long, straight blade attached to a frame that is shaped like a bow. The main benefit of bow saws is their ability to cut through larger pieces of wood quickly and efficiently. However, they are larger and heavier than other types of bushcraft saws, making them less portable.

3. Pocket Chainsaw:

Pocket chainsaws are compact saws that consist of a chain with cutting teeth that is attached to two handles. They are designed to be compact and portable, so the saw can easily fit into a backpack or pocket.

Pocket chainsaws are very effective at cutting through branches nearly a foot in diameter. To use a pocket chainsaw or wire saw, you wrap the chain around the branch or material you want to cut and pull the handles back and forth to make the cut.

4. Wire Saw:

Wire saws are similar to pocket chainsaws, but instead of a chain, the wire saws are made of a length of wire with teeth or abrasive particles. They are very lightweight and can be rolled up for easy storage. The wire design limits wire saws to cutting smaller branches. Since the wire can break or become damaged over time, wire saws are not as durable as other types of bushcraft saws. However, they are an excellent choice for ultralight backpacking or emergency situations.

Each type of saw has its own advantages and disadvantages, so it is important to consider your needs when selecting a saw. When deciding on the best bushcraft saw for you, make sure to consider the portability, field serviceability, comfort, construction quality, and blade material/teeth composition of the saw. Ultimately, understanding these factors will help you make the best choice.

What is the difference between a folding saw and a pocket chainsaw?

The primary difference between folding saws and pocket chainsaws is their design and mechanism for cutting. Folding saws feature a saw blade that is typically hinged and folds into the handle, whereas pocket chainsaws consist of a chain with cutting teeth that is attached to two handles.

Folding saws come in a variety of sizes, with larger ones being better for cutting thicker branches and smaller ones being ideal for more precise cuts. Pocket chainsaws are great for cutting through thicker branches and logs, but they are not as precise as folding saws.

Maintenance and Care: Keeping Your Saw Sharp and Ready to Go

No matter which type of saw you choose, it’s important to take good care of it to keep it performing at its best. This means keeping the blade sharp and properly lubricated, as well as storing the saw in a dry, protected area when not in use. Here are some simple steps to keep your saw in top condition:

1. Clean the saw after each use. Use a damp cloth to remove debris from the blade, and also from the handle, if it’s made of wood.
2. Sharpen the blade regularly. A sharp blade is essential for efficient cutting and reduces the risk of injury. There are various methods for sharpening saw blades using files and stones, but you can also take it to a professional sharpener if you don’t feel confident in your own skills.
3. Inspect the saw for any signs of wear or damage. Look for broken teeth, loose screws, and warping of the blade. Repair or replace any parts that are not in working order.
4. Store the saw in a dry place. This will help prevent rust and other damage caused by moisture.
5. Oil the blade periodically. This will help keep it in good condition and also make it easier to cut with.

Sharpening your saw blade can be a bit tricky, especially if you’re not experienced with sharpening tools. One option is to take your saw to a professional for sharpening, but this can be expensive and time-consuming. Another option is to invest in a sharpening tool designed specifically for saw blades, which can make the process much easier and more affordable.

Taking proper care of your bushcraft saw helps to ensure it will perform its best in the field.

Final Thoughts About Bushcraft and Survival Saws

Choosing the best bushcraft saw requires careful consideration of several factors, including blade type, handle material, saw size and weight, folding vs. fixed blade design, and maintenance and care. It’s an important piece of bushcraft gear that is useful for a variety of bushcraft and building tasks.By weighing these factors carefully, you can select a saw that’s well-suited to your needs and will provide reliable performance in the great outdoors.

FAQs about Bushcraft Saws

Q: How do I maintain my bushcraft saw?

Answer: To maintain your bushcraft saw, make sure to clean it after each use, oil the blade to prevent rust, and store it in a dry place.

Q: Can I use a regular saw for bushcraft?

Answer: While a regular saw can be used for bushcraft, it is not ideal. Bushcraft saws are designed specifically for outdoor use and are more durable and portable than regular saws.

Q: How long should my bushcraft saw blade be?

Answer: The length of the blade you choose will depend on what tasks you will be using it for. A longer blade will allow you to cut through larger logs, while a shorter blade will be more portable.

Q: What’s the best blade type for a bushcraft saw?

Answer: The best blade type for your saw will depend on the types of tasks you’ll be using it for. Crosscut blades are generally better for smaller branches and limbs, while rip blades are better for larger logs and branches. Combination blades offer the best of both worlds and are often a good choice for general bushcraft tasks.

Q: Can folding saws handle heavy-duty cutting tasks?

Answer: Folding saws may not be as strong or durable as fixed blade saws and may not be able to handle heavy-duty cutting tasks as well. However, they’re typically more portable and easier to carry, making them a good choice for lighter cutting tasks.

Q: Can I sharpen my bushcraft saw blade myself?

Answer: Yes, you can sharpen your bushcraft saw blade yourself using a saw file or a sharpening stone.

Early on in life, I learned the value of a quality tripod. Originally a photographer by trade, I knew even the slightest movement in the wrong conditions would ruin a shot. As I learned to shoot rifles from tripods, especially at extended ranges, I found the same to be true. Tripods can level the playing field, making difficult shots in awkward positions a lot more manageable. They’re not limited to tradition front-rifle support, but can be used as rear supplementary support as well. When looking at tripods for shooting, I personally have a few “must haves,” as well as a few, “prefer to haves.” Anything more is icing on the cake.

Must-Haves

• Stout legs – Strong legs and stiff legs often go hand-in-hand. It needs to support my rifle and any weight I put onto it while stabilizing my shot.
• Easy adjustments – Holding a rifle for a precise shot is enough to think about. I want knobs, levers, and dials I can quickly operate one-handed without stressing.
• Counterweight point – Every tripod I tested for this write-up features one, most often in the form of a hook or loop located directly under the head. To make my shot more stable, I can tie off to heavy objects, or even myself if need be.
• Multiple leg angles – again, all tripods tested featured three angle positions. These can be used in any combination for variations of prone, kneeling, and standing shots.
• Big rubber feet – rubber is a shock absorber, and as such, rubber feet on the ground help absorb and distribute recoil.
• ARCA-Swiss style clamps – Clamps to secure the 1.5-inch wide dovetail rails provide fast and secure mounting options for rifles. There are a few variations of it on the market, but at its core, it is the gold standard for rifle mounting.

Prefer-to-Haves

• Vented hinges – At the top of the legs, vent holes make deployment of the legs fast and worry-free.
• Spring-loaded ratcheting angle locks – Again, my preference. It’s one less thing I have to think about when changing shooting positions quickly.
• Bubble levels – Most every rifle I own has a bubble on the scope or action itself, but having one more to reference never hurts.

Those aren’t exhaustive lists, but they’re there to be thought provoking when looking for your next shooting support. Without further ado, let’s get into 5 of the best shooting tripods of the year.

Really Right Stuff S.O.A.R. TFCT 34L with Anvil 30 ARC

RRS began as a photography equipment company in 1990, designing and creating more consistent and well-thought-out quick-release plates, tripods, and other accessories. Their Sport Optics and Rifle division has kept ahead of the curve with highly engineered, durable, and lightweight tripods capable of supporting even the heaviest of rifle platforms. Every single part of each tripod is designed, made, and hand-assembled right here in the USA.

Their compact but lightweight Anvil-30 ARC head is both ergonomic and feature packed. It has seen a few iterations over the last few years. The most up-to date version still features RRS’s easy to use lever-release, but it is now repositionable for tailoring to your preference. It also features the all-new R-Lock System. The R-lock provides supplemental security to your rifle mount in the form of a pin that locks into holes machined along the underside of RRS’s quick-release ARCA-Swiss Style plates. Even if you have ARCA plates without holes for the pin, the rail clamp can still be used in its traditional configuration. The newest ARC head also features toolless tension adjustment for the Patent-pending dual-rail style clamp. This allows you to set the jaws to the appropriate tension needed for your ARCA or Picatinny rails. Lastly, the throw lever now features a paddle style safety lock to prevent accidental release of the clamp.

As for the legs, The US-made carbon fiber legs are incredibly stout, even for their comfortably narrow dimensions. Because of the way the legs are offset in their hinges, they are able to fold in nice and tight to each other, keeping their packing dimensions to a minimum. The hinges are also vented, preventing airlock when deploying and collapsing the legs. This particular model, the TCFT 34L with the Anvil 30 ARC, extends to over six feet tall at its highest point, and can support anywear from 45 to 85lbs, depending on how high you extend its four sections. Even at its tallest, 45lbs is generous, and will cover most heavy long range platforms. The legs have three adjustable positions with ratcheting locks that automatically engage when adjusting from horizontal to vertical positions. The TFCT 34-L with Anvil-30 ARC head comes in with an MSRP of $1,580.00, making it the highest-priced option on our list.

Two-Vets Sporting Goods – Recon V2 with 55mm Dual Tension Ballhead and Area 419 Arcalock Clamp

The first word that comes to mind when I see the Recon V2 is clean. The Recon V2 brings in a lot of features you should expect to find in premium carbon fiber tripods, at a more mid-level price point. The 38mm main tube is made of a stout and tightly woven carbon fiber, while the center section, hinges, and twist locks are all CNC machined from high strength aluminum. The grooved aluminum twist locks only require a quarter turn to loosen and retighten, making for fast and solid adjustments in the field. The hinge locks are able to ratchet and can lock out at 3 angles, giving you shots anywhere from prone to fully standing. At its full height, the Recon V2 with the 55mm Ballhead is just a couple inches shy of six feet tall, making standing shots a breeze, even at high angles.

The center section has been narrowed for the V2, giving a minimal profile when legs are collapsed against each other. The hinges are vented to allow for easy deployment and compression of the leg sections. The center section also features a rubber-tipped set screw, which lets the user snug it into whatever head they decide to use, eliminating the need for any sort of threadlock on the ⅜”-16 main screw. They also feature multiple ¼”-20 threaded holes around the center section and hinges for accessory mounting. The wide rubber feet provide support and stability in most environments, but when needed, simply unscrew the feet to reveal a steel spike in each. Spinning the threaded spikes from the inside to the outside gives you even more traction in soft terrain. The price of the Recon V2 alone is $605.00.

As for the head itself, the 55mm ballhead features a dual-tension system for ball adjustments. Set the smaller of the knobs to the level of tension you like, then use the large main knob to lock and unlock the head quickly. The third small knob on the tripod allows the user to loosen and tighten the panning portion of the head, giving glass-smooth horizontal movement. The Area 419 Arcalock Clamp features three steel pins that lock into Area 419 Arcalock scalloped rails. This pin/scallop combo prevents unwanted movement of the rifle in addition to the friction tension of the clamp. If you prefer to run smooth sided ARCA rail, this isn’t a problem. A set screw under each pin can be backed out, and the pins removed. Simply unwinding the oversized knob loosens the spring-loaded clamp and allows for ease of movement. The knob isn’t as fast as a throw lever, but does allow the user to adjust the tension in the ARCA plate exactly where they want it. The price of the ballhead in that configuration is $235.00. Combined with the price of the tripod, tax included, the full setup can be gotten right around $900.

Despite being a relatively new company, Two Vets has come out swinging with a wide product line covering the bases from competition to hunting. Their customer service has, in my experience been top-notch, and I often found my questions being answered by the owner of the company himself. They’re always working to improve their products and have a few exciting plans for 2024.

BOG Deathgrip Infinite

The new Deathgrip Infinite from BOG comes down from their long line of affordable, thought-out hunting products. This latest model contains a number of features that make it better than ever. They started by separating the Deathgrip Clamp from the head, and put an ARCA-Swiss style plate on the bottom. The head itself now has an adjustable ARCA compatible clamp, making swaps between spotting scopes, cameras, and the Deathgrip head itself a breeze. That ARCA clamp tops a lined socket which tilts and rotates freely on the 45mm Aluminum ballhead. The polymer lining keeps the movements both smooth and quiet.

The Deathgrip Ultralite head is made from magnesium to remain lightweight but strong. It weighs less than 1lb, and features a patent-pending dual jaw clamp with rubber inserts to give you a secure, yet non-marring hold on your rifle stock. Clamping adjustments are made with a single oversized, rubberized knob. The dual jaw clamps move quickly, and keep the rifle centered over the tripod, ensuring the best balance. The ARCA-Swiss style plate is securely mounted on the bottom by four steel screws and two indexing pins. Testing the Deathgrip on different platforms, I didn’t have a single rifle it wouldn’t hold securely. From my heaviest AR-10s, to my lightest bolt actions, the clamp held solid through the firing cycle time and again. The jaws open to almost 2.5”, and can tighten to just under 1.3”. The Ballhead itself features overmolded knobs that are large enough to easily manipulate with or without gloves. The ARCA clamp itself can open more than wide enough to accommodate not only the Deathgrip head, but most any ARCA-style rail on the market.

Utilizing lighter materials like Magnesium and Carbon Fiber, BOG was able to drop the weight of the tripod with Deathgrip head to only 6.5lbs. Without the Deathgrip, the carbon fiber tripod comes in under six pounds. Twist locks on the stout carbon fiber legs are fast and easy to use, thanks to being rubberized. Steel spikes stored in the rubber feet are out of the way when you don’t need them, but easy enough to install when you do. The leg hinges feature three settings to adjust them to 20, 45, or 85 degrees. When splayed out to 85 degrees, shots can easily be taken in the prone. The tripod also features a retention strap to keep the legs held together when in transit. The kit comes with a soft carrying case, and an additional ARCA plate for optics.

Fat Boy Tripods Traverse Three Section with Invert60 Ballhead

The Fat Boy Traverse tripod with their Invert60 Ballhead is flashy to say the least. The carbon fiber weave looks like snake skin, and the mossy green anodizing on the upper section stands out. The legs are a stout 42.5mm, and collapsed with the Invert60 Ballhead, it stands 32 inches tall at the ARCA Clamp. This is our bulkiest tripod tested, and with a total weight of 7lbs 11.5oz, it is also our heaviest. The legs have little to no flex, and when folded, integrated stops in the hinge prevent the legs from crossing over in the way of each other.

The hinges feature similar ratcheting technology we saw in a couple previous models, with the three leg positions allowing for shots anywhere from prone to standing. The center section is wider than previous models, and the ⅜”-16 threaded top platform can be swapped out for an aftermarket bowl adapter and 75mm leveling base. The hinges and center section also feature ¼”-20 threaded holes for mounting accessories. The rubberized twist locks on the legs require only a quarter of a turn to loosen or tighten, and the rubber feet feature integrated steel spikes. The spikes stay out of the way, but can be accessed by extending the shortest leg, then spinning the rubber foot up to expose the spike.

The Invert60 Ball Head features a combination picatinny and ARCA rail clamp with an adjustable quick throw lever to loosen or tighten onto your rail of choice. One single rubberized knob controls tension on the 60mm ball head. The “Invert” name comes from the ball itself being mounted to the tripod, and the socket moving around it, opposite of a typical ball head. The grippy knob doesn’t take much of a rotation at all to go from very tight, to quite loose. This makes on the fly adjustments quick, and since the mount is inverted, the adjustment knob stays in the same spot relative to the rifle, making panning and tilting simultaneously a one-stop shop. The threaded plate under the ball features a set screw to prevent the head from coming loose.

The rubberized knobs and twist locks all feature aggressive texturing, ensuring ease of operation in any condition. When fully extended, the three-section legs bring the Invert60 ARCA clamp to 69 inches off the ground. While this option may be a bit big and heavy for backcountry hunts, it is sure to be a solid platform for predator hunting, competition, and regular range day shenanigans. Fat Boy offers the Traverse three section for $750.00, and the Invert60 Ball Head for $375.00, bringing the total cost for this setup to $1,125.00 plus tax.

Vortex Radian Carbon Fiber Tripod + Ballhead

The design of the Radian Carbon tripod from Vortex is very reminiscent of my early photography days using Leofoto tripods and heads. Dimensions, shape, even placement of levers and knobs was very familiar. After offering optic-specific tripods in the past, Vortex has taken the dive into purpose-built, heavy duty shooting tripods. This model is offered as a complete package with your choice of a ball head or a leveling head. I chose the ball head for this review. Like their other products, the Radian Carbon tripod is covered under Vortex’s VIP Warranty. In the package is the set of legs, the head of your choice, a counterweight hook, soft case, ARCA plate for optics, stainless steel spike feet, and all tools and manuals you will need to get started and maintain your tripod.

The legs are stiff, with the main tube having a diameter of 36mm. When all four sections are fully extended, the tripod stands 67 inches at the ARCA clamp on the ball head. The rubber feet must be fully spun off before spinning on the spike feet. The twist locks only require a quarter turn, and the rubberized knob is generously sized, giving sure grip in any conditions. The center section has a metal loop for a sling, as well as a bubble to check level of the legs themselves. I would be remiss if I didn’t say I found myself wanting with some of the design on this tripod. The hinges for the legs are not vented, so I find myself pulling each section to fully extend it. This is a bit cumbersome when speed is of the essence. The hinge locks also do not ratchet in. It was an extra step I needed to take to ensure my legs would be locked out at the position of my choice. It’s not a make or break of course, but I definitely was expecting it as a premium tripod option.

The 55mm ball head features the three knob tension system I spoke about earlier in this review. Two for the ball, and one for the pan. The knobs are aggressively textured and easy to manipulate, despite not being rubberized. The ARCA clamp itself features a twist knob for securing the ARCA plates, and has its own small bubble level, ensuring you can keep the ball level. The maximum load of the tripod with that head is 55lbs. In this configuration, it comes in at a hefty 7lbs, 2.4oz. At it’s widest point when folded, the tripod is 6 inches in diameter, but the feet can come together at the bottom, so it still packs a bit easier than if the legs went straight out. The Vortex name and warranty carry a lot of weight, and despite my misgivings, it is still a solid option. For the premium price (MSRP $1,299.00), I do wish it had a few more of those features that I’ve really found make shooting from a tripod more pleasant.

Final Thoughts

When considering these five models, I looked for what was both solid and fast. Whether hunting or competing, speed matters. The fastest head to operate was by far the Anvil 30 ARC from RRS. The whole RRS setup was the lightest too, and as such, most versatile of the models tested. It’s also the most tested and fielded of any of the above models. The price for me, however, was a breaking point. I personally found myself drawn to the Recon V2 from Two Vets Sporting goods. Whether shooting rifles or even photos, it has been, more times than not, the one I reach for. In my time spent with it, it punched well above the price point at which it is offered. The Deathgrip Infinite Carbon Fiber from BOG was most budget friendly option. It comes with the tools needed to run any rifle, whether it had a rail or not. This past deer season, my good friend was due for neck surgery and couldn’t physically hold up his rifle. I sent this tripod with him for the season, and it gave him the support he needed to take the shot when it mattered. BOG built this one with a purpose. Speaking of dedicated purpose, the big and heavy Traverse from Fat Boy begs to be run in competition or out on a coyote hunt. The Vortex Radian Carbon, while a bit hefty, still finds a home in the worlds of competition and hunting.

These I tested are only a small batch of the wide range of tripods on the market. From even bigger competition models to the smallest and lightest backcountry tripods, there is sure to be one that fits your needs at the price point you want to work with. If you can try one before you buy one, even better. Whether hunting or competing, be sure you have the tools you need to make the shot count when it matters.

The story of America’s largest and rarest turkey subspecies

The Gould’s turkey (Meleagris gallopavo mexicana) is one of the few wild turkey subspecies that survive in the arid regions of the south-central United States and Mexico. Although there are some limited hunting opportunities in Arizona and New Mexico, you’ll likely have to head south of the border to pursue one. Here is what you need to know about our largest and rarest turkey subspecies.

Description and life history of the Gould’s wild turkey

The Gould’s turkey subspecies is similar in weight to the Eastern wild turkey, with males weighing 18 to 30 pounds and females weighing 8 to 12 pounds on average (NWTF 2018). However, they generally are larger in size with longer legs, larger feet, and larger tail feathers than any other subspecies (Kennamer 2009). Their feathers resemble the Merriam’s turkey, but have metallic copper, greenish-gold, and bluish-green reflections instead. Differing from the Merriam’s turkey, the rump feathers and tail fan tips on Gould’s are white instead of creamy or buff-colored (Kennamer 2009). Hens have duller feathers to hide well on a nest, and the breast feathers are buff to brown with a slightly purple reflection. The Gould’s turkey is thought to have moderate length beards and spurs compared to all the turkey subspecies (NWTF 2018). The colors of male and female heads are similar to Easterns, with males having a red and blue colored head and females having bluish-gray heads with more feathers present.

The breeding season occurs in the spring and is usually the most concentrated in April through June (NMDGF 2017; Kennamer 2009). It is believed that the Gould’s turkey has a lower frequency gobble than the Merriam’s or Rio Grande subspecies (Kennamer 2009). Most courtship displays and breeding occur in the morning hours, while afternoons are spent foraging. After mating, a hen scratches a nest into the ground, usually located on a steep slope at the base of a tree or other obstruction in heavy cover (NMDGF 2017). Anywhere from 4 to 17 eggs (usually 10 to 12) are laid in the ground nest and incubated for approximately 28 days (NMDGF 2017; Kennamer 2009). Hens normally leave the nest in the morning to feed briefly, but otherwise incubate the eggs steadily until the chicks hatch.

Afterword, the poults (called a brood) and the hen forage together in riparian areas and forest openings where insect life is abundant. The poults feed heavily on invertebrates (e.g., insects and spiders) as they are rich in protein (NatureServe 2018). Adult birds primarily forage on seeds, nuts, fruits, tubers, and leaves. In the Peloncillo Mountains of New Mexico, the most utilized food items for Gould’s turkey include juniper, piñon pine, oaks, manzanita, grape, and various grasses or forbs, with fruits and grasses being the most preferred items throughout the year (NMDGF 2017). Typical predators of the Gould’s turkey in Arizona and New Mexico include bobcat, mountain lion, coatimundi, black bear, coyote, and grey fox (NMDGF 2017).

Range and habitat of the Gould’s wild turkey

Like the Merriam’s turkey, the Gould’s turkey prefers mountain habitats, which are often quite dry and rugged. In the U.S., Gould’s turkeys are found in the Animas and San Luis mountains of New Mexico and in the Peloncillo Mountains of New Mexico and Arizona (Kennamer 2009). Gould’s typically occupy mountain ranges with elevations between 4,500 and 6,500 feet above sea level in the U.S. and elevations above 9,800 feet in Mexico (Kennamer 2009).

Gould’s turkey habitat is often located in rugged terrain with steep and rocky canyons (Kennamer 2009). Similar to Merriam’s turkeys, mixed pine and oak (e.g., evergreen oak, juniper, piñon pine, and Chihuahuan pine) forested canyons and slopes are often used, as well as open woodland/savanna habitats and riparian areas dominated by cottonwood and sycamore trees (NMDGF 2017). Riparian areas provide water and tall trees for roosting, while the nearby oaks provide hard mast (acorns) in the fall.

Conservation issues with the Gould’s wild turkey

The Gould’s turkey population is very limited within the United States. Hunting by early settlers and miners between the Civil War and World War I drastically reduced populations by the time of the first legal hunting season in 1929 (AGFD 2018). The Gould’s turkey is threatened in New Mexico, and the primary threats and limiting factors there include habitat destruction (due to wildfires, overgrazing by livestock, or harvest of fuelwood and beargrass), a lack of reliable water sources, genetic issues (e.g., inbreeding, hybridization with non-native turkeys, etc.), or poaching (NMDGF 2017). It is likely that these same risks threaten populations in Arizona and Mexico.

Hunting opportunities for the Gould’s wild turkey

The Gould’s turkey historically occurred throughout Arizona and New Mexico as they currently do. However, their range has been drastically reduced to the southeast and southwest corners, respectively, of these two states. If you want to hunt these birds in the U.S., you need to be in one of these areas.

In Arizona, fewer than 100 Gould’s permits are sold for turkey hunting. In New Mexico (where the Gould’s turkey is threatened), the state has determined that only a very limited hunt can occur and only two permits are sold. The New Mexico Department of Game and Fish (NMDGF) and National Wild Turkey Federation (NWTF) sell one Gould’s turkey enhancement permit at an auction and raffle the second permit off. The funds raised from these two enhancement permits are utilized solely for the management of the Gould’s subspecies. While the New Mexico turkey season dates are shown in the table below, any consecutive 30 day period from April 15 to May 10 in 2021 can be authorized for the Gould’s turkey hunt.

Spring 2021 Gould’s turkey seasons

(Last updated February 8th, 2021)

* Varies by unit click on state for details** Some or all permits maybe subject to drawing

Similar to Merriam’s, start your hunt by looking for mature oak and pine trees along steep slopes and canyons. Then locate open meadows and water sources nearby, which will all be attractive to the turkeys as strutting and roosting areas. Set up quietly along one of the meadows or water sources early in the morning and start calling towards the trees. With a little luck, you can harvest one of these rare turkeys.

Remember that your hunting license dollars support the continued management and habitat work that is so critical to saving the Gould’s subspecies here in our country. Hunting is conservation at work.

Osceola Wild Turkey (Meleagris gallopavo osceola) – A Wild Turkey Profile

Rio Grande Wild Turkey (Meleagris gallopavo intermedia)

Eastern Wild Turkey (Meleagris gallopavo silvestris) – A Wild Turkey Profile

Introduction

If you define the effective range as the distance a shooter can deliver a hit to a man-sized target, then the maximum effective range for a 9mm round fired from a handgun is about 1800 meters. If it sounds absurd, it is because the assumption is ridiculous.

However, the estimate takes into account match grade ammo when fired from a perfectly maintained weapon and by a skilled marksman in a stable shooting position. The target is motionless and at a known distance in the perfect environmental conditions.

The basic answer to this question varies based on the gun and the shooter abilities. The safe estimate for both target and combat shooting is, however, between 25 and 50 meters. And this estimate is for the average effective range for an average shooter using average equipment on an average day. Significantly less because there are just so many factors to account for.

From experience, a reasonably skilled shooter with a 9mm handgun may be able to hit a man-sized target out to a hundred yards on a practice range. Sometimes 200 yards and that is if the gods of luck smile. In the real world, in cases of life and death situations, or self-defense shootings, it is quite common for shooters to miss their targets seven out of ten times within a few yards distance.

=> Check latest 9mm ammo prices

What is a Pistol For?

To expand on this question we must understand the purpose of having a pistol and its primary use. You have to ask yourself, what is the use of a handgun? A pistol was never intended to be a battle weapon. In combat situations, it plays the role of the sword in the bygone eras and it is used as a last resort. Compared to a rifle, the handgun is a prosecuting firearm at close quarter combat.

Rarely are handguns used in hunting and the 9mm is not a hunting cartridge. But for the most part, a handgun’s primary purpose is a personal defense weapon. Personal defense does not include a range beyond 25 yards. Throughout history, most personal defense situations are between 10 yards or closer. I see a scenario where one tries to explain to a jury an assailant more than 30-40 feet away puts you at risk of causing you grievous bodily harm or death.

If it was in the defense of others, 25 yards is still far enough away, and I estimate it to be the limit of the average shooter to get a sure hit. However, the consequences of missing could still be tragic and all individual shooters with a 9mm handgun must know the effective range of the cartridge. It is also imperative that one knows their overall effective range.

What Affects the Effective Range of a 9mm Handgun

The effective range of a 9mm handgun has two interwoven components. That is the distance the cartridge can kill with a lethal hit and the likelihood of an average person making a lethal hit at a given range.

Range

If you consider the range, a 9mm has a potential killing power out to several hundred yards. As a practical matter, an average shooter can consistently make a hit within less than 30 yards. If you also use a scope with your handgun then the effective range and accuracy increase tremendously.

Barrel length

Shooting at long range is challenging as the pistol is the most difficult to master as the bullets are very slow and this makes them arc a lot at long range. But if the pistol barrel becomes longer, that distance increases. If the sight radius of a pistol is elongated, the sighting becomes easier and accuracy increases.

We need to differentiate between lethality and effectiveness. Bullets can be lethal at any distance as long as it still has its stopping power. But at very long distances, a human-size target is smaller than the front sight post, and this reduces accuracy. At this point, you will just be lobbying rounds and hoping to hit something.

For the average shooter, trying to get a hit rate at 100 meters with a handgun is world-class shooting.

Action

The effective range also depends on the gun that fires the round. A bolt action rifle does not use propelling gas to operate or reload mechanism. Both semi-auto and automatic rifles use some propellant gas to reload. The gas comes from a hole in the last piece of the barrel.

Most pistols are designed to reload immediately and if there are lots of propelling gas escaping the wrong way the shot power is compromised. Therefore, the amount of propelling gas ultimately affects the effective range of a handgun.

For example, a Glock 17 has an effective range of 25meters. The range is only for the pistol though and not the bullet. If the same bullet from a pistol is fired from a pistol caliber carbine a shooter can be very accurate at those distances and slightly higher.

Stock/Design

If you buy the .22 Long Rifle rimfire round you must have seen the warning it embodies on the box.

“Dangerous Within One Mile.”

Most handguns like the 9mm are chambered and tuned for reliability and not so much pinpoint accuracy. The sights are designed to withstand abuse and allow a shooter to have a rapid visual acquisition. It means that most pistols are for short-range use.

The delivery system is what limits the range, and for most service pistols, to hit fifty yards under street conditions is a difficult and long shot to take and make a hit.

What is the Lethal Range of a 9mm?

There is no definitive answer for this as well. But if you ask me, I will place it at 50 yards give or take. And that is a pretty lucky shot if the circumstances are favorable.

The variables include the 9mm ammo brand and power, the rifling in the barrel, the accuracy of the pistol, and its constructive impact on the bullet’s trajectory. Also, you must factor the external conditions that include density and moisture among others.

Now, a lethal range certainly means a handgun capable of inflicting deadly or serious damage to a person or animal. Also, consider that there is no limit for any safe and out of bounds area. I mean that fluke shots are still lethal although the target is far away and the shot unintended.

Other factors that make a shot lethal include, point of entry, impact angle, and area of entry. There are a whole lot of things that could make a shot lethal or not. Sometimes at close range, a bullet may pass through flesh missing vital organs and therefore inflicting only flesh wounds instead of fatality.

Therefore, despite all the arguments of the lethal range, the first rule of gun handling is to ensure that firearms are always pointed downwards. Always practice safe use to ensure your safety and the safety of others around you.

How Far Does a 9mm Bullet Travel?

There are some variables that we must consider before we give a blanket answer. First, is based on the type of 9mm round. Some ammo is loaded at a higher pressure and will leave the gun faster than others. Other bullet shapes will cause less drag than others.

Also, the type of firearm will determine the velocity of a bullet. Longer barrels allow the bullet to reach higher initial velocities than a short barrel handgun

Understanding Velocity

If you already know the velocity at which the bullet will fall, then all we need to do is calculate how fast it travels when it leaves the barrel. For example, a standard 115-grain bullet leaves the 4.5-inch barrel of a typical handgun at about 1100 feet per second.

When calculating velocity, it is essential to know that all guns fire bullets at a small upward angle. The reason is that the sights are “zeroed” at some distance. For handguns, the distance is about 25 yards

Understanding Drag

When you fire a bullet it travels through a medium. In this case it is air. The bullet slows down because of the friction caused by the medium. It is what we refer to as drag. Drag varies with the ballistic coefficient of the bullet as this is determined by the shape of the bullet. A 9mm handgun bullet, having a round, as opposed to a spire nose will not have a very good ballistic coefficient.

9mm versus .40 Smith & Wesson

There are three key things to consider when picking the best self-defense caliber.

Cost

Everywhere you go, wisdom dictates that shot placement is more important than the caliber you use to shoot. It does not mean that calibers do not have an impact on a shooter’s outcome. Small rounds may not penetrate bones or breastplate when hunting.

Caliber does matter. However, the emphasis on shot placement is to remind you that when you miss it is the same as shooting a zero caliber bullet. Therefore, shot placement is not necessarily king but rather it is the proficiency of the firearm you will use. It is why the cost of the ammo matters.

For example, if a 9mm costs about 14 cents a round. And a.40 S&W costs about 19 cents a round.

There is only a 5 cent difference. Eventually, it all adds up though. Suppose you use 1000 rounds that means you pay about $80 more for your ammunition when shooting with the .40 S&W.

Regardless of your budget, if you shoot the 9mm you will get more training for your money, and therefore become more proficient with your gun. In effect, you will have a better-shot placement.

Recoil

The .40 S&W is essentially just a short 10mm round, therefore it features a higher breach pressure than the 9mm. Because it is a heavy round, the .40 S&W has more felt recoil.

High-pressure rounds that produce a recoil impulse can be uncomfortable for some shooters and also more challenging to shoot with one hand.

If a shooter spends time and resources training to shoot with the same handgun, chambered in 9mm, in the end, they become faster and more precise. There is less recoil energy to absorb and control in a 9mm round.

Magazine Capacity

I cannot see a situation where having more rounds is not better. Take the context of self-defense, reloading can be impossible. To reduce the chances of having to reload, the magazine capacity should be high.

Provided you are comparing two guns of the same size, the 9mm will always have a higher magazine capacity than .40 S&W. Therefore, a 9mm handgun enables you to perform better than .40 S&W.

However, the .40 S&W is also a perfectly viable self-defense round. Though it takes more training, it is a darling to many shooters.

Conclusion

But, if you want to shoot a lot and also want to be a better shot for less money, you should consider using a 9mm handgun for both home and personal defense. It is a sure way to save money and time without compromising defensive performance.

What should you choose for hunting, the .270 or the .308 cartridge? Some within the hunting community say you can make a decision with a coin toss. Both are outstanding and have have stood the test of time for decades.

Having said that, the .270 and .308 have their differences, and a good hunter should know them. Our goal is to set out what these differences are and why you may choose one over the other when hunting.

I’ll begin with the main points before diving into our cartridge comparison below for the ballistics aficionados among us.

.270 vs .308: Which for Hunting?

We spent a lot of time comparing and measuring the performance of these two cartridges against each other. Overall, there is not a huge amount of difference between them – they both have similar recoil and are supersonic all the way to 500 yards. Competent shooters have had a great deal of success using either to dispatch a variety of medium and large game across the world.

Having said that, there are some advantages to choosing one over the other, depending on the scenario in which you’re hunting.

Hunting in Thick Brush?

As the .308 is a heavier cartridge with a larger diameter, it requires a long action rifle. This can add a couple extra inches to your barrel. The downside of this is that if you’re navigating thick brush or holed up in a deer hunting tree stand, you can find yourself more restricted when zeroing in quickly and quietly for your kill shot. In this case, a shorter, lightweight rifle chambered for the .270 is a much more effective hunting companion. Plus, a .270 (particularly at the lower grain end) has less recoil.

Require a Longer Shot?

As I said, both the .270 and .308 remain supersonic at 500 yards. However, the .308 has a higher average bullet drop than the .270 even at short ranges (-14.5 inches vs -11.91 inches at 300 yards – see our data below). At 500 yards the difference is a full 10 inches. This may sound insignificant, but this can be the difference between success and failure, particularly at greater distances.

The flatter trajectory and greater resistance to wind drift makes the .270 the better choice. Of course, an advanced hunter may not consider this a huge challenge but as a rule, we recommend the .270.

Shooting Large Game?

At 100-200 yards both the .270 and .308 have the stopping power to dispatch an elk, brown bear or moose. However, as the .308 has a larger diameter and is sold at higher grain levels, it will outperform the .270 particularly with thick-skinned or larger, tougher animals. Having said that, you must ensure you purchase a quality cartridge that leverages controlled expansion to ensure an effective and ethical kill.

We also saw in our comparison that the .308 consistently outperformed the .270 on average for bullet momentum (up to 500 yards) which is a good indicator for improved penetration, despite the .270 having a higher average sectional diversity.

Shooting Medium Game (whitetail deer, feral hogs, etc) within 100-200 yards?

Both the .308 and the .270 can be used at this range. However, we’d argue that the .270 is preferable particularly for lighter-skinned game, such as whitetail deer. Dispatching medium game using a .308 can be overkill, particularly if you’re a meat hunter – you’ll find the .308 can cause significant damage. Certainly, at this range you want to ensure you’re on the lower end of the grain spectrum for the .308 to counter this. The .270 will be perfectly efficient for you.

Affordable Hunting

Both the .308 and .270 are popular and readily available at all ammo stores online and offline. Additionally, they are both less prone to the panic buying you experience with other rounds. However, when it comes to affordability, it is worth mentioning that the .308 tends to be on the cheaper side. If cost is an important factor, you may want to investigate the 6.5 Creedmoor as another alternative.

.270 vs .308 Cartridge Comparison

Category.270.308 Bullet weights (gr)120-160125-70 Average Muzzle Velocity (ft/s)2963.32733 Average Recoil (ft.lb)19.5622.15 Average Supersonic limit (Yards)1101.251023.70 Average Ballistic Coefficient0.4380.434 Average Sectional Density0.2690.248

Both are fantastic cartridges that have been tried and tested in the field for decades. We will take a look at the history and specifications of these cartridges as well as look in detail at the ballistic categories. We will also take a look at other categories such as recoil, accuracy, and availability of the ammunition.

Our objective is not to name one cartridge as being better than the other. By looking at this information, we hope to better tease apart which cartridge is better suited for specific hunting situations. If you know the hunting you want to take part in, this article will make your decision easier.

Specs 270 vs 308

.308 Winchester.270 Winchester Parent Casing0.3.30-03 Bullet Diameter0.308”0.277” Neck Diameter0.3433”0.308” Case Length2.015”2.540” Overall Length2.8”3.340” Case Capacity56gr67gr Max Pressure (SAAMI)62,000psi65,000psi

Just from looking at the casing and overall cartridge specs we can begin to garner some information about the .270 vs .308. The first difference that we see between these two cartridges are the bullet diameters. The .308, as the name implies, has a 30 cal bullet with a .308″ diameter bullet. The .270 is fitted with a .277″ diameter bullet. These diameters play a role in the weight of the bullets that are used by the two cartridges and in other performance specs that we will look at later in the article.

You can see that the .270 is a much longer and skinnier cartridge than the .308. And even though the .270 is skinnier, its .5 inch increase in the casing length allows it to hold more powder and can withstand 3,000 more units of pressure than the .308. Obviously, just from this little bit of information, we can already guess that the two cartridges are going to show some differences in their ballistics and other We will see how these specifications influence the ballistic and other properties of the cartridges shortly.

To compare, we have selected five rounds of each cartridge that are popular for hunting and general shooting in the US. The list below shows these rounds. And though we think that we have a good selection of rounds with different grain weight bullets and performance specs, we are aware that it is still a relatively small sample size with the number of options that are available. Unfortunately, we are limited in our available space and decided to cut the samples off at ten. We know there are other great rounds that are available and some of these might be rounds you have been using for years. Their omission here does not reflect our attitude towards those rounds.

AmmunitionPrice (20 Rounds) 270 Hornady SST Superperformance 130gr$41.99 270 Federal Vital-Shok Nosler Partition 150gr$57.99 270 Remington Core-Lokt PSP 115gr$26.99 270 Winchester Ballistic Silvertip 130gr$41.99 270 Federal Sierra GameKing BTSP 150gr$33.99 308 Hornady BTHP Match 168gr$37.99 308 Winchester Super-X 180gr$27.99 308 Nosler Ballistic Tip 165gr$43.99 308 Federal Vital-Shok Ballistic Tip 150gr$39.99 308 Federal Gold Medal Sierra Matchking 175gr$36.99

To compare these ten rounds, we have gathered data from the manufacturer as well as generated a good deal from trusted ballistic calculators. Where ballistic calculators are used we kept as many variables the same between rounds of the same cartridge. Where calculations are made, we will be sure to make clear our variables. When we come to these situations we will make clear what is going on and the variables that we used.

And again, we realize the possible errors and the biases that come with using a small sample size. To combat that and provide a little more confidence to the numbers, we have compiled a much larger data set. All of these rounds can be found at the end of the article. With the larger data set of factory loads for each of these cartridges, we can be more confident that the conclusions drawn represent the full set of round options for each cartridge. It will also give us some more piece of mind when we do look at the trends found in the graphs. And if we do find some discrepancies, it will give us some more interesting talking points.

There is something to be said about computer-generated data when it comes to comparing two cartridges. The first is that these numbers are not set in stone. If you fired these rounds from your platform, you would more than likely you’re going to see numbers that vary from what you will find here. Each gun has its own unique qualities that are going to influence the numbers. Regardless, from a comparison perspective, computer-generated data is perfect for looking objectively at two cartridges and it removes environmental influences.

Recoil

The recoil of a cartridge is going to be important to a lot of shooters, especially those with not a lot of shooting experience. For more experienced hunters, most hunting cartridges, including the .270 and .308, the recoil is going to be manageable. It is important to note that what we are comparing here is straight recoil energy. The “felt recoil” involves a lot more factors than just the type of cartridge used. Still, looking at the actual energy still gives you a lot of valuable information and it loosely correlated to felt recoil.

If we simply look at the average recoil energy generated by these two cartridges and given by the ballistic calculator software, we see that the .270 and .308 are very similar (Graph 1).

While the .308 produces slightly more recoil energy (21.7ft.lb compared to 19.6ft.lb), it probably isn’t anything significant, especially to more experienced shooters.

Of course, with different types of rounds for these two cartridges, there will be certain rounds that might be more significantly different. Let’s take a look at the ten rounds we have selected for this article and see if the trend continues (Graph 2).

We took some liberties in making this graph. We used a common grain powder load for each cartridge type that we determined from Nosler load data as well as assumed that the cartridge was being fired from a 7lb weapon. So, these numbers could fluctuate a little based on changing those variables, and we do not have the powder charge that is used by the manufacture of the round. Even with these various variables, we have kept everything as constant as possible, and the trends that we see should hold up. For the muzzle velocity, we used the data provided by the manufacturer so take that with a grain of salt as well.

Just from looking at these ten different rounds, it’s pretty obvious that there is not a whole lot of difference between the two different cartridges. We see a significant drop in recoil with the lower grain bullets than the heavier bullets which is expected, for both cartridge types. If we look at the heavier grains for each, we still see that the recoil energy is pretty similar. All of the .308 rounds do show a slight increase in recoil energy than the .270 rounds, but again, we don’t think these differences are enough to choose one cartridge over the other based on recoil. Though the differences are slight overall, we can pick out certain rounds where there is a 4 or 5ft.lb increase in recoil energy from a .270 to .308 round.

Let’s take a look at the recoil numbers with more rounds added to the group and see if the same results present themselves.

Average Recoil (ft.lb)

.308 Winchester.270 Winchester 22.1519.56

We see that the averages of the two cartridges is still pretty close with less than 3ft.lb of force difference between the two. If you look at the individual rounds (not shown) you would see a lot of overlap between these cartridges around the 20ft.lb area. There are definitely more .308 Win rounds above that mark and there are definitely more .270 Win rounds below that mark, as the averages imply. With so much overlap, we don’t think there is any significant difference between these two cartridges when it comes to recoil. If you’re dead set on choosing a cartridge or specific round to get a little recoil as possible, there are more options for lighter rounds with the .270 Win but the majority of the factory loads for both cartridges are in the 20ft.lb plus or minus 2 range.

Ballistics

In this section, we will look at several ballistic properties of these two cartridges. What we will see is that there are quite a few similarities between these two cartridges as well as some small but significant differences. This information will allow us to begin teasing apart which situations will be better suited for a particular cartridge.

We will take compare the velocity, ballistic coefficients, and the short and long-range trajectories of the two cartridges. Though we will look at each of these categories separately from the other, in reality, all of them influence and play off of one another. That not only pertains to the ballistic categories but other performance categories as well. So while this method for comparing the .270 vs .308 is cleaner, all of these different aspects should be taken together to give you an idea of which cartridge is going to be better suited for specific applications. We hope to bring all this together more clearly in the application discussion later in the article.

For now, let’s jump into these ballistic categories.

Velocity

The velocity of the bullet is going to play a major role in the trajectory, which in turn, is going to determine the number of adjustments needed to make when taking shots at extended ranges. Velocity is also important to hunters because it also influences terminal ballistics and how well the bullet will expand and transfer kinetic energy to the target.

If we look at our comparison of the ten different rounds we have used we can see some general trends (Graph 3).

For the most part, the .270 rounds have a higher average muzzle velocity than the .308 rounds with close to 330ft.s more than the .308 rounds. Several of the .270 rounds have quite a bit higher velocity, especially the 130gr rounds, and that makes sense given the casing capacity. With similar powder loads and lighter bullets, you would expect higher velocities. While there are some rounds from each cartridge that are pretty similar in velocity, the trend of the .270 rounds having an average of 200-300ft.sec more velocity than the .308 rounds extends out to the 500-yard mark.

Another important concept to take away from this graph is that all of these rounds remain supersonic all the way out to 500 yards. Furthermore, if we were to extend this range we would see this trend continue for several hundred more yards. This tells us that these rounds are going to have enough velocity for efficient terminal ballistic characteristics.

While we might give the edge to some of the .270 rounds for velocity, especially muzzle velocity, we will see that this similarity doesn’t always translate to other ballistic characteristics and we will look at those stats and discuss the reasoning in the next several sections.

Let’s see if the higher muzzle velocities of the .270 Win rounds holds up when we add more rounds to the group.

Average Velocity (ft/s)

Yards.308 Win.270 Win Muzzle27332963.3 1002521.52731.45 20023202517.8 30021822309.85 4001946.52114.6 50017751930

With the larger data set, we still see the same trend of the .270 Win rounds bringing higher velocities than the .308 Win rounds. While the difference between the averages is not as great, we are still seeing close to 200fps or a little less than that from the muzzle out to the 500-yard mark. The rate at which both cartridges bleed velocity doesn’t seem to be significant.

While we are discussing velocity, we also want to take a look at how long the bullets of these cartridges can remain in supersonic flight. Both of these cartridges have been used for long-range shooting scenarios though they might not be the most popular rounds in today’s competitions. And from a hunting perspective, we have already seen that both remain supersonic through the distances that are applicable to hunting shots.

Still, for the sake of being thorough, we wanted to see how the two compare in this category. A lot of marksmen want to know this metric because when a bullet falls below supersonic speeds, their flight becomes more unstable, and the difficulty of being accurate increases substantially.

Average Supersonic Limit (Yards)

.308 Winchester.270 Win 1023.71101.25

From the averages above, we see that the .270 Win rounds stay at supersonic speeds for about 80 yards further than the .308 Win rounds. We’re not sure if this is a big enough difference for you to start leaning one way or the other. We do know that there is a lot of variance between the individual rounds, but the top-performing rounds in this category are .270 Win factory loads. There are several .308 Win rounds that break the 1000 yard mark, but much less often when compared to the .270 Win.

Ballistic Coefficient (BC)

The ballistic coefficient (BC) is a term that elicits a lot of attention from hunters and marksmen, or it’s a term that they don’t know a whole lot about. The theories and physics behind the ballistic coefficient can get a little out there, so we are going to simplify it in this article.

The BC is simply a rating that is derived from an equation that uses multiple cartridge/bullet variables. What this number tells you is how well the bullet resists wind drag and wind drift throughout its flight path and gives you an idea of how well a bullet will be able to cut through air and wind resistance. The higher the ballistic coefficient, the less drag, and influence this resistance will have on the traveling bullet. For shots taken at extended ranges, a higher BC often means fewer adjustments will have to be made to get the bullet on target. The ballistic coefficient is not everything when it comes to having a true flying bullet. While we think it has a large role in making difficult shots easier, don’t make the error of thinking that if a bullet has a high BC, that it is going to do all the work for you or replace experience and skill.

So, let’s take a look at the ballistic coefficients of the ten rounds we are comparing (Graph 4).

Again, there can be a lot of variance on the BC from one round to the next of the same cartridge depending on bullet design. Both of these cartridges have rounds that exhibit BCs around the .5 range and also low BCs in the .3 range. It’s a good example of how bullet design is the driving factor in this category. There are some trends between cartridge types though. The .270 is a more aerodynamic round but the .308 rounds a slightly heavier which helps them resist drag and crosswinds.

If we take the average of the given rounds, we see that the .270 has a slight advantage with only a hundredth of a difference. We also have selected some pretty high-performing .308 rounds. This is also an example of how bringing in more rounds might give us a clearer picture. From our research, the general trend of .270 rounds having higher ballistic coefficients on average holds up.

What you should take away from this section is what the BC means, as stripped-down as we made it, and the understanding that between these two cartridges, the BC can vary pretty wildly with high and low-performing rounds for each.

To be more confident that this trend is the norm, let’s take a look at the average BC for these two cartridges with larger sample groups.

Average Ballistic Coefficient

.308 Winchester.270 Winchester 0.4340.438

These two numbers are pretty dang similar. With only four thousandths of a difference between the two averages, it doesn’t make much sense to make a choice between these two cartridges based solely on the ballistic coefficient. We will say that if you look at each individual round for each cartridge, you’re going to find quite a range in the BCs for both. There are high and low BC rounds for both the .308 Win and the .270 Win. If you’re planning on shooting either of these at more extreme ranges, you will need to take into account other performance factors other than the BC alone.

Trajectory

For hunters and competition shooters alike, the trajectory of a round is characteristic that garners a lot of attention and scrutiny. As most of you know, the laws of physics work on a flying bullet and rather than fly in a perfectly straight line, the flight path takes on a parabola shape. As the bullet moves downrange, it loses altitude. The more pronounced this bullet drop, the more difficult it is to make adjustments to shot placement.

For any round of any cartridge type, you want to see a flat trajectory with minimal bullet drop. Before we look at the short and long-range trajectories of these two cartridges, we wanted to take a broad outlook at the trajectory of only two rounds. We selected a round from each cartridge that are from the same manufacturer, have the same bullet design, are of similar bullet weights, and have similar ballistic coefficients (Graph 5).

We can see in this graph that there is no noticeable difference between the two rounds to the 200-yard mark. From the 200 to 400-yard mark we see the .270 round show a flatter trajectory though even here, there are only 5 inches of difference at its greatest margin.

Moving on to to the 500-yard mark, the difference increases with the .270 round showing 10 inches less bullet drop than the .308 round. Let’s expand upon this and see if we continue to see this trend when we examine more rounds with various bullet weights, designs, and BCs.

Short Range Trajectory 270 vs 308

The short-range trajectory is always important to look at. Especially when it is coming from a hunting perspective where a lot of shots are taken at 300 yards or less.

We have gathered the bullet drop data from the various manufacturers where the zero variable was set at 100 yards. Measurements were taken out to the 300-yard mark (Graph 6).

At the 200-yard mark, we do see the rounds from each cartridge begin to group with the .270 rounds showing a slightly flatter trajectory than the .308 rounds. There is a little overlap between the two cartridges here, and the averages of both show a difference of one inch. Even if we look at the two rounds with the largest difference in bullet drop between the .270 and .308, that difference is only 2.7 inches.

This difference in trajectory widens slightly as the bullets move out to the 300-yard mark. At this distance, the average drop of the .270 rounds is 11.6 inches while the average drop of the .308 rounds is 14.68 inches. And while there are still some rounds for both cartridges that hang around the middle of the pack, the difference in trajectory between individual rounds expands quite a bit from the 300-yard mark.

From this graph, it does seem that the .270 rounds show a flatter trajectory at short range than the .308. The extent of this difference may or may not be enough for you to decide one way or the other. In our eyes, both of these cartridges would be more than effective at 300 yards.

Average Bullet Drop (Inches) at Short Range

Yards.308 Win.270 Win 50-0.125-0.175 10000 200-4-3.14 300-14.5-11.91 400-32.8-27.38

While the differences are not too dramatic between these two cartridges, we still see the trend of the .270 Win having a flatter trajectory than the .308 Win. While less than an inch difference at 200 yards, nearly four inches at 300 yards, and a little more than five inches at 400 yards, might not seem like much, it can easily be the difference between success and failure. Of course, these are just averages and there are definitely .308 rounds that perform above the average. These numbers do corroborate the trends we saw in our graph.

Long Range Trajectory

When looking at the .270 vs .308, we have to examine the long-range trajectory of these cartridges. Both of these have a history in long-range performance in an assortment of applications. Like the short-range trajectory, this data originates from the manufacturer where the zero setting was set at 200 yards and the measurements taken out to 500 yards (Graph 7).

The general trend of the long-range data between these two cartridges is very similar to what we saw with the short-range trajectory. At the 300 yard mark, the difference between the average bullet drop of these two cartridges is nearly identical. If we look at individual rounds, there are several .270 rounds that show two to three inches less bullet drop than some of the .308 rounds.

At 400 yards, the margin widens with a four-inch difference in bullet drop between the .270 and .308 rounds. It is more clear at this range where the rounds for each cartridge begin to group. You can see that the flattest shooting rounds belong to the .270 while the rounds showing the steepest drop are .308 cartridges. There is some middle ground where the .270 and .308 have rounds that behave very similarly.

At the 500 yard mark, we see the same pattern but it is much more distinct. At this point the difference between the two cartridges is right at 10 inches. If you begin picking out individual rounds, you can find some huge differences between .270 and .308 rounds where the .308 round shows between fifteen and twenty more inches of bullet drop

While it appears that the .270 has rounds with a distinct advantage in long-range trajectory, there are .308 rounds that are more than capable of being used at these ranges. And if you have hunting in mind, the trajectory doesn’t mean much if the bullet can’t bring down the game quickly which leads us to our next section.

Average Bullet Drop (Inches) at Long Range

Yards.308 Win.270 Win 10021.6 20000 300-8.5-7.21 400-24.7-21.4 500-50.3-42.7 700-137.6-111.3 1000-401.6-347

When we look at the numbers for our larger data set, we see the same trends as previously. The .270 Win, on average, has less bullet drop than the .308 Win. In this table, we have actually extended the range out to a 700 and 1,000-yard marker. At these ranges, the difference between these two cartridges really becomes apparent. With 26 inches of difference at the 700-yard mark and 54 inches of difference at 1,000 yards, the .270 has the advantage in trajectory. And as we state in just about every category, this doesn’t mean there are not .308 factory loads out there that will perform above the average, but it might be hard to find a factory load that can match the average of the .270 at 500+ yards.

Stopping Power

For hunting cartridges, the stopping power is one of the more important performance characteristics. You don’t want to spend the night tracking through the woods after an injured animal because the bullet didn’t have enough power to drop it cleanly. For those who are more interested in long-range shooting, this section might not carry the weight the ballistics section has. Regardless, there is no harm in knowing as much about your cartridge of choice as possible.

There are several components to stopping power of a particular cartridge. Two of these components that we will look at are the kinetic energy that is associated with the bullet as it travels downrange and the how well the bullet penetrates the target.

Energy

The energy or force (ft.lb) that is associated with a bullet on its flight path is transferred to the target on impact and can cause a tremendous amount of damage to surrounding tissue and organs which makes this component of stopping power important to examine. You will often see the loose guidelines for how much energy is needed to harvest specific animals. For most medium-size game, 1,000ft.lbs of energy is the recommended amount, and this increases the larger the animal gets. While we agree that energy is important, we also think shot placement is as important if not more. It’s also important to remember that expansion of the bullet is also important is this allows the maximum amount of energy to transfer to the target.

Let’s examine the stopping power of our ten rounds and see if we can spot any major talking points (Graph 8).

Both cartridges have a tremendous amount of energy at shorter distances, over 2,500ft.lb average muzzle energy for both. They also tend to bleed energy at the same rate as they move downrange as the differences between the averages remain within 50ft.lbs of energy throughout the 500 yards. Both cartridges and their five rounds have over 1,000ft.lbs of energy out at the 500-yard mark, and we also see that there is not really any patterns when it comes to each cartridge grouping together. There is a lot of overlap between the two cartridges with both of them having rounds that carry a significantly more amount of energy while others fall behind.

This is one of the main reasons when looking at the .270 vs .308, why the .270 is favored for hunting large game where shots are taken at increased distance. With the flatter trajectory and stopping power that is nearly identical to the larger .308 bullets at long range, a lot of people feel more confident in taking shots at game at a distance with the .270 over the .308.

But, before we take that to the bank, let’s see if those trends hold up when we take a look at a larger sample of rounds for these cartridges.

Average Bullet Kinetic Energy (ft.lbs)

Yards.308 Win.270 Win 027232676.4 1002319.92276.6 2001966.51932.65 3001657.91623.88 4001389.71372.45 5001109.51117.6

For the most part, we see a lot of the same results with the larger data set. The .308 Win has anywhere between 30 to 50 more ft.lbs of energy from the muzzle out to 300 yards. What is a little different now that we have more rounds is that the rate at which the .308 Win rounds bleed KE is a little steeper than the .270 Win rounds. We see this the most at the 400 and 500 yard marker where the .308 Win only has about 17 more ft.lbs of KE and then less KE than the .270 Win rounds at the 500 yard mark.

Penetration (Sectional Density)

Testing rounds on ballistic gels are one method of testing the penetration between two cartridges though how well a gel simulates a bull elk is up for debate. How we will compare the penetration of these two rounds is to look at the sectional densities (SD) of the bullets as it allows us to look at the two cartridges rather than the differences between bullet styles. These numbers are not going to tell you how deep a bullet will penetrate. It is going to give us an idea of the potential of each round had has for penetration.

The sectional density of a bullet is derived from the bullet’s weight and diameter and correlates to its penetration. The higher the SD of a bullet, the deeper penetration it will show. Other factors such as velocity and bullet design also play a role in penetration, but we will mostly keep the conversation on sectional density.

So, let’s take a look at the sectional densities of the ten rounds we have been using for comparison and see if any trends emerge (Graph 9).

Before we discuss any differences and trends that we see between the .270 vs .308 in sectional density we want to take a look at two rounds of the different cartridges that share the same bullet weight to show how sectional density can differ based on the variables that go into calculating the sectional density.

The 150gr .270 round shows a higher sectional density and depending on the bullet type, better penetration than the 150gr .308 rounds. The reason for this is the smaller diameter of the .270 allows more force to be localized to a smaller area and helps push the bullet deeper.

If we step back and look at the two cartridges, we see some pretty interesting results. The first is how varied the sectional densities of the .270 rounds appear. If you notice, the two rounds with SDs of .279 are the heavier 150gr bullets. Overall, the heavier bullet weights of the .308 rounds are what give the .308 cartridge a slightly higher average when it comes to the sectional density. Though the .308 on average has a higher SD here, there are .270 rounds, as we have highlighted, that have similar or better SD numbers.

Let’s take a look at the average SDs for our larger data set.

Average Sectional Density

.308 Winchester.270 Winchester 0.2480.269

Interestingly, when looking at more rounds, we see that the .270 Win takes a pretty big leap over the .308 Win. We already know that the .270 Win rounds have a smaller diameter than the .30 cal cartridge and when we added in more rounds, they contained quite a few heavier rounds that bumped up the average. What should be taken away here is that both of these cartridges have rounds that are going to range in sectional density. And there is a reason that sectional density is not used as the sole metric to determine potential penetration. Let’s move on and look at a second metric for this category,

Penetration (Momentum)

Bullet momentum is another factor that goes into stopping power and is always involved in the arguments for the best indicator for stopping power. When we look at these numbers, we are addressing how well a bullet is able to stay in motion when faced with resistance. Whether that is an obstacle in the flight path or the hide and bone of a game animal, momentum gives you an idea of how well the bullet can overcome these obstacles.

From a hunting perspective, momentum is a good indicator for potential penetration, like sectional density, and really goes hand in hand with it. Bullets with the same momentum and same mass but different sectional densities will have different penetration results. Smaller diameter bullet is going to penetrate deeper because less resistance is encountered. This scenario is also omitting bullet design, which in real-world scenarios, is just as important as any of the data we are looking at.

Momentum is a function of the bullet’s mass and its velocity and since we have looked at both, you should already have an idea of how these two cartridges will look in comparison to each other.

We have calculated the bullet momentum for our ten selected rounds and graphed them below from the muzzle out to 500 yards (Graph 10).

There is quite a lot to talk about after looking at the graph. The first is that the .308 Win rounds, at least the majority of them, leave the muzzle with a around an average of 6lb/ft.s more momentum than the .270 Win rounds. As the rounds move downrange, we do see the .308 Win rounds start to lose momentum at a faster rate than the .270 Win rounds.

By the time the rounds reach the 300-yard mark, there is only 4lb/ft.s of momentum difference between the rounds of the different cartridges. By the 500 yard marker, there is right at 3.5lb/ft.s difference in momentum between the two cartridges.

The rounds of each cartridge do group together pretty tightly until they get out to the 500-yard marker. But even before then, we do see some rounds that deviate a little from the rest of the rounds of their respective cartridge.

Let’s take a look at the averages of our larger sample size and see if the same trend persists.

Average Bullet Momentum (lb/ft.s)

Yards.308 Win.270 Win Muzzle64.158 10059.153.3 20054.449 30049.945.5 40045.741.5 50041.738.6

The data that we have from the large sample is almost exactly the same as the averages from the smaller sample size. We see the .308 Win rounds carrying on average more momentum than the .270 but as they move downrange, we see the .270 Win rounds gaining ground. More like the .308 Win rounds are losing ground.

Accuracy

Accuracy has more to do with the quality of the firearm and the user more so than the cartridge. And while we don’t think ballistics can rectify user error, we do think that certain ballistic characteristics can help you be more accurate on a consistent basis.

We have seen the flatter trajectory of the .270 versus the .308, and that may play a role in it being more accurate, especially at ranges over 300 yards. Within that range, there will be little if any difference in the accuracy of the two based on bullet drop from the .270 v. .308. And if you go back and look at the differences in bullet drop at long ranges you will see that there are .308 rounds that are more than capable of 400 and 500-yard shots.

We have also examined the ballistic coefficients of the two cartridges. From looking at that information, we saw that while the .270 had a slightly higher average BC than the .308, the .308 had rounds with similar and even higher BCs than the .270. In this case, it seemed that the BC relied more on the individual round than a difference between cartridges.

Regarding recoil, we have seen that both cartridges generate a similar amount of energy, so we don’t think that distinguishes either of the two cartridges regarding accuracy.

Price and Availability

Both of these cartridges are pretty popular in the United States. You might have a little better selection of .270 rounds when searching around a retail store than the .308, but generally, you are not going to have an issue finding these rounds and finding various types of ammunition for each.

As for price, it can vary pretty wildly depending on the make of the ammunition. Just take a look at the ten rounds that we have looked at in this article. You can find a case of .308 for twenty bucks and a box down the aisle might be forty dollars. The same can go for the .270. Based on their hunting use, we don’t see any real difference in price between the two. Not enough for you to choose one over the other anyway.

AmmunitionPrice (20 Rounds) 270 Hornady SST Superperformance 130gr$41.99 270 Federal Vital-Shok Nosler Partition 150gr$57.99 270 Remington Core-Lokt PSP 115gr$26.99 270 Winchester Ballistic Silvertip 130gr$41.99 270 Federal Sierra GameKing BTSP 150gr$33.99 308 Hornady BTHP Match 168gr$37.99 308 Winchester Super-X 180gr$27.99 308 Nosler Ballistic Tip 165gr$43.99 308 Federal Vital-Shok Ballistic Tip 150gr$39.99 308 Federal Gold Medal Sierra Matchking 175gr$36.99

Applications

As we come to a close with this comparison, we want to bring all the information we have examined and use it to start trying to figure out if there are scenarios where one cartridge might be better suited than the other, or maybe applications where you can’t really go wrong with either of them. For convenience, we have also included the average tables for the various performance categories below.

We think that both of these cartridges make excellent hunting options though there are hunting situations where one might be better suited than the other. So, in regards to the .270 vs .308 debate, let’s look at some of these applications.

For recoil, it’s a wash between these two cartridges. Both have a bit of a kick, but for hunters and marksman with a little experience it’s nothing you haven’t felt before, and it shouldn’t impact your shot in the field. Besides, with that adrenaline pumping, you’re not going to feel it anyway.

For small game hunting, the .270 is a much better option. This is just due to the availability of lighter grain bullets. Hitting small game with a heavy grain .308 is not going to leave anything behind and is just overkill and a waste of money.

For large game, both cartridges have the stopping power to take large game at under 300 yards and even further when in the right hands. They can both take medium-sized game at 500 yards without an issue in regards to energy. As for the penetration potential of these cartridges, the .270 Win rounds had slightly better SDs than the .308 Win rounds but the .308 Win rounds brought a little more momentum, especially at the more common hunting ranges out to 400 yards. With both cartridges excelling slightly at different categories, we don’t think there is really much of a difference in how well the two will penetrate from the standpoint of these numbers. You will definitely need to take it round by round regardless of the cartridge and pay a lot of attention to how the bullet is going to react on impact.

For larger game such as deer and elk, both cartridges have enough stopping power at short range to drop animals cleanly. The .270 might be a better option when dealing with shots that are over 400 yards. There are some .308 rounds out there that perform well at these distances as well, but generally, the .270 would be the better choice. And this has nothing to do with energy or penetration, but rather the ballistics.

The big reason why the .308 is not favored in long-range shooting is the heaviness of the bullets and the trajectory. For large game at increased distances, the .308 is just harder to put on target in the kill zone. If you can, it will drop game, but for all but the best marksman, you are more than likely only going to wound the animal and never find it. And when we are talking about extended ranges we mean 400+ yards. And as we have stated several at several points, it’s not that we are saying it is impossible, we are just saying that the ballistics lean towards the .270 in this situation.

For general long-range shooting, a lot of the above discussion is pertinent here as well. The .270, on average, has higher velocities than the .308 which a lot of long-range shooters will be key on. Like all the other categories there are some .308 rounds that are similar, but there are several .270 rounds that outperform all of the .308 rounds we have looked at. The same goes for the BCs of these rounds. While the .270 rounds might have a slightly higher BC on average than the .308, it seems to depend on the individual round. Both have rounds with high enough BCs for some long-range action.

Best Rounds

Before we wrap up this article, we want to re-examine the ten rounds we have been comparing and pick a round from each cartridge that we think will excel in certain situations. This is just our opinion, and it doesn’t mean that we think our picks are the only option out there to take care of your business.

Top Hunting Round

The Federal Vital-Shok Nosler Partition 150gr is one of our favorite hunting rounds for the .270 cartridge. This round has nearly 2,000ft.s velocity at 500 yards which is more than enough to get the correct terminal ballistics. That paired with bullet energy greater than 1,500ft.lbs at 400 yards give this round excellent stopping power. We also like the heavier grain bullet that can get penetration on larger game. The long-range trajectory for this round is not as flat as other .270 rounds but it is still manageable at 400 yards and to be honest, any range after that we are not concerned with when it comes to hunting.

For the .308 Win, we like the Nosler Ballistic Tip 165gr. This is another excellent option for medium to larger game. The bullet energy is the highest of the selected .308 rounds with 1,300ft.lbs of energy at the 500-yard mark which is enough for even larger game at that range. With proper shot placement, this round still has the energy and the velocity to make a clean kill. Anything within that yard mark is no issue. For the .308 rounds, it has one of the best long-range trajectories where a 300-yard shot is no problem in the right hands, and 400 yards is even manageable.

Top Range Round

Our tope range round for the .270 is the 130gr Winchester SST Superperformance. This round excels in the velocity category with over 2,200ft.sec at 500 yards and will remain supersonic for several hundred yards beyond that mark. The BC of this round might not be as high as long-range shooters would like to see, but the flat trajectory might compensate for this with a bullet drop of only 33 inches at 500 yards. That’s pretty impressive for a factory load. This round is a bit more expensive compared to the other .270 factory loads that we have looked at, but it gives you the best long-range performance.

For our top .308 Win range round we like the 168gr Hornady BTHP Match. This round is affordable which is an important consideration when you plan burning through quite a few out on the range. This round has a great BC for .308 rounds (.45), and when paired with the velocity and long-range trajectory, you have an excellent round for precision shooting. The bullet drop is more pronounced than the small weight .270 rounds, but when compared to other .308 rounds, you can easily handle the 80 and 120-inch drop at the 600 and 700-yard mark.

Conclusion

When looking at the .270 vs .308, it’s difficult to draw a firm conclusion on which is the better cartridge. While they have some similar characteristics, there are differences that make them better in certain situations.

It’s a new world out there. You don’t have to be relegated to only one cartridge and feel it deserves all of your loyalty. To be a great hunter, you might need to turn to more than one cartridge on your adventures.

We hope that this article has given a clearer understanding of the two cartridges and also made clear that both are tremendous hunting cartridges that are readily available. When used in the right scenario, both the .270 and .308 are effective cartridges for bringing home game or smoking the competition on the range.

Ammunition List

A Brief History

.308 Winchester

The .308 Winchester/.308 Win/.308 was introduced in 1952 in the United States. From this cartridge, the 7.62×51 NATO round was also designed and saw brief use in the US military in Vietnam with the M14 Garand. Though its military career was short-lived, the .308 has become an extremely popular round in civilian use from its conception to modern day. And that is not to say that it cannot still be found in military or police force circles today, it certainly is, but not as ubiquitous as it once was.

The .308 shows certain performance capabilities, which we will get into in this article, that has given it a place in many sharpshooting capacities, including use with the police and some military forces. Where this cartridge has gained a strong following though is in the hunting world. This is a larger bullet with excellent range and stopping power. It’s a great medium to large game rifle and can be used for just about any large game animal in the world, barring a few.

There are a plethora of options when it comes to the .308. Cartridge and bullet design give it a lot of versatility, and it is also readily available. You will find the bullet weights of .308 cartridges to fall between 125 and 170 grain with a few outliers in both directions.

.270 Winchester

The .270 Winchester/.270 Win/.270 made its appearance in the hunting world in 1925 where it would stay in relative obscurity for a time. For several years, the .270 did not have a significant following of users. Jack O’Connor, a famous writer of firearms and hunting, really pushed this cartridge and its abilities in the field and brought it to the forefront of hunting cartridges, where it remains to this day.

The .270 has gained a huge following in the world of hunting from small varmints and predators to large American game such as sheep and deer. With a leap in bullet technology, the .270 is much better suited for taking larger game such as elk.

The .270 came from the .30-03 which saw very brief use in the United States in the early 1900’s. Another cartridge that comes from this parent case is the .30-06 which are very similar to the .270. The .270 can be thought of as a necked down version of the .30-06.

As far as bullet weights go with the .270, most ammunition is going to fall between 120-160. There are smaller weights that are available for small game. Like the .308, there is a lot of options regarding bullet weight and design, and they are readily available and affordable.

Deer hunting is a tradition that can be found in every culture.

It has served as a way to provide food, materials for clothing, keep deer populations from overwhelming local ecosystems, and even as a hobby or for sport.

Those who enjoy deer hunting or know someone who does knows just how tasty venison can be.

However, it may be difficult to tell whether or not the deer meat is still good.

How To Tell If Deer Meat Is Spoiled (4 Ways)

In order to tell whether or not deer meat is spoiled, you are going to need to use all of your senses.

You can tell deer meat is spoiled by the touch, smell, and look of it.

There’s no need to taste it, as that can be hazardous for your health.

There are also other factors that you can use to tell whether or not your deer meat is still healthy to consume.

1. The Touch Of The Venison

Your venison won’t feel fresh if you touch it.

The deer meat will feel slimy and wet to the touch.

While your venison should be damp, it should never be soggy or slippery.

You may not be able to tell if your deer meat is spoiled by the touch if your venison has been frozen.

Luckily, there are multiple options for analyzing the freshness of your venison.

2. The Look Of The Venison

The first way you can tell if deer meat has gone bad is by the look of it.

Your deer meat should be a nice, deep red.

If your venison is brown, then you have a problem.

Spoiled meat will also have a metallic shine to it, but that can be a difficult deciphering tool because deer meat always has a certain shine to it.

This natural shine comes from the deer’s thick tendons and muscle structure.

It is better to go by the color if you are solely going off of looks.

If you’ve already ground up your meat, then you should take a look at the inside of each ground chunk.

If the inside is brown, then the meat is no longer good.

3. The Smell Of The Venison

You will mostly smell the revolting aroma of spoiled deer meat before you can even get to the other steps of studying the venison.

A sewage-like smell will attack your nose and seep deep into your nostrils.

If your deer meat has been frozen, you may not be able to smell it at first.

The smell will get increasingly intense as the meat thaws.

Prepare for your whole house to reek of sewage by opening the windows and airing out the house beforehand.

4. The Timing Of The Venison

There are two time frames that you will want to consider when trying to figure out if your venison has gone bad.

The first time frame you will need to take into consideration is when it was killed, dressed, and stored.

In order to keep your meat good for as long as possible, you will need to shorten the time between when the deer was killed and when it was frozen.

The time limit between those two events will be shorter if the weather is hot and humid.

You can leave deer meat out for the longest time when it is cold and dry.

The second time frame you’ll want to consider is how long you have been storing your meat.

You’ll also want to consider where it is being stored.

In the refrigerator, your meat will last three days.

Ground venison can last in the freezer for three months.

Venison roasts and steaks can be stored in the freezer for six to nine months.

Eating Spoiled Meat

Avoid eating spoiled meat at all costs.

The effects of eating spoiled meat can be devastating to your digestive tract.

If you have eaten questionable meat and that meat turns out to be spoiled, you may experience symptoms such as stomach pain, nausea, and diarrhea.

However, the worst-case scenario is death.

Rotten meat is where bacteria such as Escherichia coli and salmonella prosper.

Cooking your meat may get rid of any future bacteria forming, but it does not get rid of the toxins that they leave behind.

Those are left deep inside of the meat.

Ground meats will need to be cooked to a minimum of 165 degrees Fahrenheit.

Venison steaks and roasts will need to be cooked to 145 degrees Fahrenheit or higher to have any chance of killing these germs.

There’s another germ you will need to worry about.

Clostridium botulinum can be found in all sorts of meats.

This bacterium causes vision problems, paralysis, and even death.

There are five different types of Botulism.

There is infant botulism, wound botulism, iatrogenic botulism, and adult intestinal toxemia.

Each type of botulism is based on where it forms.

It can form in your wounds, your food, your cosmetics, your intestines when you’re an infant or adult, and even your food.

Foods that are canned or made at home without the proper equipment are at a higher risk of having foodborne botulism.

All forms of botulism are fatal.

If you or a loved one are potentially suffering from botulism, then go to the emergency room immediately.

Diseased Venison

There is something vastly more dangerous than simply spoiled meat.

There is a disease that is going through the United States’ deer population called Chronic Wasting Disease.

Similar to Mad Cow Disease, Chronic Wasting Disease eats away at the brain.

The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention hasn’t linked the disease to anything that indicates humans can get it, but the organization still highly discourages eating meat from deer with this disease.

Before you go for your hunt, you should look into whether or not Chronic Wasting Disease is prevalent in your hunting area.

Those hunting for food should select another location for hunting or be prepared to have your meat tested once you bring the venison home.

There are other precautions you can take to avoid eating diseased meat as well.

How To Avoid Diseased Meat

One of the first things you can do to avoid diseased meat is to not shoot sick or weak-looking animals.

Instead, you should call your local fish and game department to inform them of the animal.

Should you accidentally shoot a sick-looking animal, turn it into your local game department so they may record and analyze it.

By doing this first tip alone, you will be helping keep your loved ones, the local community, and the local deer population safe.

Whenever you are dressing your deer in the field, make sure to wear latex or rubber gloves.

This will help you avoid direct contact with any potential contaminants.

It is better for you to bone out your deer, rather than sawing straight through the spine, brain, or any bone.

During the deboning process, try to avoid touching the brain or spinal tissues for longer than necessary.

You should wash your hands immediately and thoroughly after the field dressing is finished.

You will also need to make sure that your tools are completely clean and have soaked in 40% bleach for a minimum of five minutes each.

You should avoid eating the brain, spinal cord, spleen, eyes, tonsils, or lymph nodes of the deer.

While most of these things will be removed during a normal field dressing, you may still need to make sure to avoid lymph nodes.

By cutting away all of the fatty bits of the deer, you will have cut away any lymph nodes.

Hunters who want to be extra cautious may choose to ensure that, when their meat is processed, their animal is being processed individually, without any other meat mixing in.

Best Venison Meals

Venison can make for a hardy, protein-packed meal that has that signature gamey taste.

While that gamey taste isn’t for everyone, there are many ways to prepare venison as a meal.

It doesn’t all need to be your basic venison roast.

The best kind of jerky is venison jerky, by far.

This meaty, gamey jerky is the perfect snack while working or even hunting more deer.

All you will need to make it is venison, chili powder, onion powder, liquid smoke, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, black pepper, garlic powder, and teriyaki sauce.

If you like your venison jerky spicy, add some hot sauce and hot paprika.

You will want to cook your jerky at 150 to 175 degrees Fahrenheit.

You will cook one side of your jerky for three hours before flipping it over and cooking the other side for another three hours.

When in doubt, turn your meat into sausages!

With some venison, garlic powder, black pepper, mustard seed, tender quick, onion powder, and liquid smoke.

All meat lovers agree that the better sausages have cheese in them.

If you’ve never made sausage before, you may end up having a lot of fun with the steps it takes to make sausage.

The coarser you grind the meat up beforehand, the better it will stay together in a sausage.

You’ll want to leave your logs in the refrigerator overnight to help make the sausage firmer.

The better you mix your meat with your other ingredients, the better your sausage will hold up and turn out.

Venison makes excellent meat for any soup or stew.

Its gamey taste pairs well with vegetables, cheese, and herbs.

Any soup that has beef in it can be easily replaced with venison for a more gamey taste.

You can also add venison to vegetable-based soups, like potato soup.

The starch of the potatoes soaks up the gamey venison.

Health Benefits Of Venison

When you’re trying to decide on what to eat for a healthy meal, venison may not cross your mind.

It may be shocking just how many health benefits that venison has.

When most people go hunting, they aren’t thinking about the healthy meat they’re bringing home to their families, but luckily, your hobby is good for the whole family.

Deer meat is packed to the brim with protein.

In 100 grams of venison, there are 24 grams of protein!

A fourth of deer meat is pure protein.

The protein from venison is a complete protein, meaning it contains all of the essential amino acids that our bodies need in order to survive.

Complete proteins are what keep our immune systems, hormones, and crucial enzyme production in order.

Those who love beef but need to cut back on saturated fats should consider replacing beef with venison.

Deer meat is vastly lower in saturated fats than most other red meats.

Venison isn’t just a great source of protein, but it is also an excellent source of iron.

With 25% of the world’s population having an iron deficiency, we could all use a little venison.

There are two different types of iron: haem and non-haem.

Non-haem iron mostly comes from plants, but it doesn’t absorb into the body as well as haem iron.

Haem iron comes from most meats, excluding the liver, spleen, and bone marrow.

Zinc is one of the trickiest minerals to get into your system, with most people just opting to take zinc supplements.

By eating 100 grams of venison, you will get almost a third of the total zinc you need in a day!

Zinc is responsible for keeping your skin healthy.

It is also a crucial mineral for reproductive health, especially in men.

Quality Of Meat Weighs On Quality Of Shot

The quality of your meat weighs heavily on the quality of your shot.

The best hunters will kill their meat as humanely as possible, which means doing it with the fewest number of shots.

Plus, scaring your prey will only cause their body temperature to rise as they run for their lives.

You’re looking for the “one shot, one kill”.

You’re out in the field, and you’re aiming at the broadside of a buck.

Wait for the deer to have his leg extended and aim for a third of the way up his body, right behind the leg.

That is where the heart and lungs are.

This shot gives you room for error because of all the vital organs in the area.

With this shot, it is better to shoot a little high than a little low.

If the deer you’re hunting is looking toward you, you should aim for the lower quarter of their chest.

A deer’s lungs and legs are the best tools they have for escaping.

You want to take out the lungs because that will result in a quicker death for the deer.

Never forget the importance of respecting the animal you’re going to make a meal out of.

Texans have their own special spot to shoot a deer for a quick death.

Your deer will need to be facing away from you with its butt showing.

Use that tail of theirs to make the perfect marker for the “Texas Heart Shot“.

By shooting straight through the tail, you will be hitting the aortic artery and puncture the heart and lungs, which will lead to internal bleeding.

Plus, their white, little tails make it easier to see exactly where you need to shoot.

Isn’t it a great day not to be a deer?

NEXT: 50 Words That Begin And End With T (And How To Use Them)

New chicken owners are often quick to purchase heat lamps to keep their flock warm in the winter and to maintain warmth within the chick brooder. However, this heating method is not safe and there are MUCH better options available. Today we are going to discuss the best alternatives to heat lamps for chickens and other barnyard animals.

Choosing a Safe Heat Lamp Alternative

Heat lamps have been used for years to warm livestock during freezing temperatures. They are also used in brooders for young chicks. These lamps have contributed to hundreds upon hundreds of barn and house fires so I have sworn them off, but my animals still need to stay warm… so… what are my options?

What is the Purpose of a Heat Lamp

Before we discuss heat lamp alternatives, let’s talk about why livestock owners use heat lamps to begin with.

Heat Lamps in a Brooder

When baby chicks are purchased from a hatchery or if you hatch your own chicks, they don’t have a mother hen to sit under for warmth. Since they don’t have mama hen’s body heat and they can’t regulate their body temperature, there has to be an artificial heat source.

Day-old chicks need a temperature of 95 degrees F in the brooder. 2-week-old chicks need 90 degrees F and the temperature requirement continues to drop 5 degrees per week until they move out of the brooder.

Heat lamps are used to provide this heat for the chicks until they are ready to move outside.

Heat Lamps in the Coop

A heat lamp is also often used to warm a chicken coop during cold weather. This really isn’t necessary, but in some areas where the temperatures drop below freezing, the extra heat can be helpful.

Why You Shouldn’t Use Heat Lamps

Providing your animals with heat isn’t a bad thing, but using unsafe heating equipment is. There are a few reasons why you should avoid using heat lamps for your livestock so let’s jump into those.

1. They are a fire hazard

The number one reason to stay away from heat lamps is the high risk of fire. Heat lamp bulbs get very hot and the heat cannot be regulated. This heat is concentrated in one area and, if placed too close, can catch nearby materials on fire.

Traditional heat lamps are hung up with a metal clamp. These clamps are known to shift and release causing the lamp to fall. When a heat lamp falls, the heat is transferred directly to the surface that it falls on. If this surface is coop bedding, wood, or another combustible material then you almost certainly have a barn fire.

2. They shatter easily

Heat lamp bulbs are not shatterproof. This means that if a lamp falls, the bulb may shatter and spread glass shards all around the floor of the coop, barn, or brooder.

A hot bulb can also shatter if practically anything touches it while it is hot. Imagine your animals splashing a bit of water or a loose feather flying around… once that water or the feather hits the bulb, bam! You have glass everywhere and potentially a fire.

Even if the fallen heat lamp doesn’t catch anything on fire, the broken glass would still be a huge safety concern.

3. They don’t distribute heat evenly

The heat from a heat lamp does not distribute evenly… it concentrates in the center. This poses a fire risk and it can make it difficult for the chicks or other animals to find a spot with a comfortable temperature. Since heat lamps warm up the entire space, chicks (and other animals) have a difficult time if they get overheated.

4. They produce disruptive light

Heat lamps emit a bright light that animals can’t get away from. This light can disrupt their natural sleep patterns as well as their hormone production. If you are using a heat lamp for laying age birds, this additional light can cause them to continue to lay eggs even when their bodies want to rest.

5. Chickens can keep themselves warm

Adult birds don’t really need supplemental heat in the winter. As long as you provide a healthy environment with proper ventilation and a wind break, their feathers keep them warm. This is the same for most farm animals.

If you do need artificial heat for your animals, check out the safe heat lamp alternatives listed below.

6 Safe Alternatives to Heat Lamps for Chickens

Heat lamps are one of many options for keeping your animals warm. Let’s dig into safe alternative heat sources for your homestead.

1. Heat Plates

This is my go-to choice for a heat lamp alternative. Heating Plates serve the same purpose as heat lamps without the high risk of fire. There are horizontal heat plates that are made to be used with young chicks and there are vertical (stand-up) heat plates that can be used with older birds.

Horizontal heat plates provide heat to chicks using much less electricity than a heat lamp. The chicks gather under the plate just as they would gather under a mother hen. You can adjust the height of the plate easily as the birds grow.

A vertical heat plate can be used for ducklings and older birds as well as some other livestock. This is a plate that heats up to warm animals that are standing or laying down near it. Some plates switch from horizontal to vertical so you can use them throughout the lifetime of your chickens.

Heat plates allow the birds to choose if they want to be in the heated area or if they want to move to a cooler spot. In fact, these plates don’t even warm the air. They will only warm a solid object (like a chick) that passes through the radiant heat emitted from the plate. This is important because different chicks may be comfortable at different temperatures.

The surface of a heat plate doesn’t get hot, either. When you touch it, it should feel warm, but it won’t burn you or your animals.

Heat lamps put out continual light that can disrupt the animal’s natural sleep cycles, but heat plates produce no light so sleep patterns are undisturbed.

I use an Ecoglow brooder for young chicks and this heating plate for ducklings and older birds.

Advantages:

• Less Electricity
• Very Low Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk
• Mimics Mother Hen
• Radiant Heat
• Low Surface Heat
• No Artificial Light
• Height Adjustable

2. Heat Pads

Electric heating pads are used as a heat lamp alternative for small animals (chicks, piglets, etc.), but they have to be protected from water. They can be placed under bedding, on the wall, or under a towel.

You can also make a faux heat plate by turning a small metal basket upside down and placing a heating pad on top. If you choose to use a heating pad, try to find one with a built-in thermostat.

Advantages:

• Lower Electricity Usage
• No Artificial Light
• Low Burn Risk
• No Shatter Risk

3. Hot Water Bottles

Bottles with hot water can be placed in with the animals that you are trying to warm. These bottles will need to be replaced frequently, but they can offer warmth temporarily. This is a safer alternative to a heat lamp that works well in an off-grid situation with no electricity, but it does require more labor on your part.

If you choose this method of heating, be sure to insulate the bottles with a rag or dish towel to keep the animals from burning themselves.

This won’t work for very young chicks that need high ambient temperatures (80-95 degrees F).

Advantages:

• No Electricity Usage
• No Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk

4. Ceramic Heat Emitter

Ceramic heat emitters are used in a similar fashion as heat lamps, but they provide heat without emitting light. No artificial light means that the animals’ natural sleep patterns are undisturbed. Since there is no glass bulb, they do not pose a shatter risk and the fire risk is much lower (but still present).

The surface temperature of the emitter can get very hot which can burn your animals if they touch it.

Advantages:

• Less Electricity
• Low Fire Risk
• Low Shatter Risk
• Radiant Heat Source
• No Artificial Light

5. Deep Litter Method

During the winter, you can increase the heat inside your coop or shelter by layering new bedding down on top of old bedding. Piling the bedding up like this is called the deep litter method. This method will increase the temperature inside the shelter for your animals without a safety risk.

Advantages:

• No Electricity Usage
• Increase Ambient Heat Naturally
• No Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk
• No Artificial Light

6. Natural Warming

The best heat lamp alternative is no supplemental heat at all (except when it comes to baby chicks). Most animals are just fine in the winter without any artificial heat. Just be sure to provide your livestock with a shelter that has a windbreak and proper ventilation. This will keep them dry and out of the wind.

Advantages:

• No Electricity Needed
• Increase Ambient Heat Naturally
• No Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk

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Cover photo courtesy of grandviewoutdoors.com

If you hunt whitetails, it should be no secret to you that whitetails communicate through scent they leave behind. Whether detecting danger, bucks seeking a breeding doe or a doe locating a hiding fawn, whitetail deer use scent for much of their survival and social interaction. Scraping behavior of whitetails, is one of the CHIEF ways whitetail bucks leave scent behind throughout the year.

Bucks work scrape’s overhanging branches, called a licking branch, throughout the year, often times more than they work the scrape itself. But their most aggressive scraping of these areas occur from October to December when testosterone levels are highest. When a whitetail buck makes a scrape he does so where there is an attractive branch hanging along a roadway, at the edge of a field, on a well-worn trail, or in a random area he’s walking through. In most cases a buck begins the scraping process by rubbing his forehead, preorbital, and nasal glands on the branch and in some cases will actually lick and chew on the overhanging branch. Once done, most bucks will paw the leaves and other debris from the ground under the branch, then urinate into the pawed-out earth.

Photo Courtesy of americanhunter.org

The process usually takes less than two minutes. During this time, however, a buck will leave liberal amounts of scent behind. Scraping, like rubbing, allows a buck to make his presence known. It’s a calling card of sorts; a post on a whitetail bulletin board. Research suggests that scraping is primarily a buck activity. Does have been known to work a scrape from time to time but they most frequently work the licking branch above the scrape. Bucks almost always work both.

Scrapes can be broken down into 3 different categories, though the names or classification of these are often debated. The are Boundary, Secondary and Primary Scrapes.

Boundary scrapes: Boundary scrapes are made by traveling bucks moving through his territory. These scrapes will show up along field edges, fence rows and roads that aren’t too busy.

Secondary scrapes: Secondary scrapes are made my bucks as more of an impulse. These are far more random and a result of the buck “feeling the need” to make a scrape. Call it impulse, hormones or whatever you’d like but these scrapes are less frequent, spiritic and typically not a good target for hunting over.

Primary scrapes: These are the scrapes that hunters need to target. These scrapes are the epitome of whitetail scrapes, with some having the potential of becoming very attractive to whitetail bucks. These scrapes can be found in strategic locations—inside corners of agriculture fields, ridge lines, pinch points and especially along well-worn trails between bedding and feeding areas during the rut. Find these primary scrapes and hang a stand!

Bucks work licking branches 365 days to leave their scent, scraping behavior peaks during the 30 day window leading up to peak rut, especially during the last 10 days. Once breeding kicks in scraping behavior drops off drastically. Scraping will continue during the post rut but at a significantly lower rate than occurs leading up to that point.