“The wind has picked up. Hold the edge of the plate.”

I maneuvered the reticle over to the edge of the plate, which was shimmering in the morning heat. I eased back on the trigger, and at the sound of the shot the rifle pushed back a bit. I watched a new dot appear on the plate, but I could not hear the impact.

I was at Bill Wilson’s ranch, with Bill himself calling the wind for me, using a Wilson Combat Super Sniper, chambered in 6mm Creedmoor. The Super Sniper is the culmination of the knowledge base of Bill and his crew and their years of building rifles based on the Stoner system.

The Wilson Combat Super Sniper’s 20-inch barrel is heavyweight stainless with a 1:8 twist, and this particular sample had the threaded muzzle option with a Wilson Combat flash hider installed. There is also a rapid-thread muzzle brake as an option.

The barrel is installed in a Wilson Combat BILLet upper, which is matched to a lower, and both are machined from pre-hardened billet aluminum. A small rubber bumper in the lower bears against the rear lug of the upper as you close it up for a wobble-free fit.

The fore-end is the company’s T.R.I.M. Rail, a free-float handguard 13.8 inches long that has M-Lok slots for mounting a bipod and any other accessories you use. The full-length optics rail up top aligns with the rail on the receiver, so there’s plenty of room for scopes, backup iron sights, night vision or other extras.

The Rogers Super-Stoc telescoping stock is standard equipment, but my sample came with an optional fixed Gen3 PRS from Magpul that adjusts for cheekpiece height and length of pull.

The lower receiver has a Wilson Combat pistol grip, made by Bravo Company with the Wilson Starburst pattern and logo on it. The trigger on my sample was Wilson’s TTU, a two-stage trigger set at four pounds. The charging handle is Bravo’s BCM Gunfighter with its larger-than-GI left-side latch. The Super Sniper’s bolt and bolt carrier are magnetic particle inspected and then NP3 coated.

In the AR-10 version of the Super Sniper, which includes the 6mm Creedmoor chambering, the rifle feeds from M110-pattern magazines. Wilson supplied one from Lancer, but Magpuls will work as well.

The base model Super Sniper is finished in black Armor-Tuff, but my test rifle featured a burnt bronze/black camo pattern. It also came with Wilson’s T V3 Ultralight scope mount. The V3 does not use the hand-tightened wheel of the firm’s Accu-Rizer but rather three crossbolts that clamp the mount to the receiver. It is lighter and sturdier, but it requires tools to install. A Leupold VX-6HD scope was installed for testing.

The 6mm Creedmoor is a result of the competitive demands of the Precision Rifle Series, a long-range competition that requires accuracy, flat trajectory and the ability to deliver quick follow-up shots when needed. When I was shooting with Bill Wilson, I could see all my hits out to 1,200 yards, but at the longest distance I couldn’t hear them because the 108-grain bullet didn’t ring the steel hard enough to let the sound carry back to the firing line.

I don’t have easy access to such distances back at home, so I had to content myself with punching absurdly small groups at 100 yards. The clean, crisp trigger pull of the TTU made that easy. I suspect this rifle could shoot even better than I found, as the accuracy limits are getting down to my limits.

What is this rifle for? Well, for someone who wants to get into Precision Rifle Series or similar long-range rifle competitions, this would be just the ticket because it’s scarily accurate and has mild recoil.

As a hunting rifle, the Super Sniper might not be the best choice. At a book weight of more than eight pounds, it isn’t exactly a stalking rifle, and once you load it up with a bipod, scope and ammo, you’re looking at double-digit weights. But if you’re hunting from a tree stand or a blind where you don’t have to lug the rifle very far and there’s an availability of a rest, that weight won’t matter.

As a beautifully made, utterly reliable rifle that the shooters at the gun club will envy, the Wilson Combat Super Sniper gets top marks. Yes, the starting point is a bit on the high side as AR rifles go these days. And once you add in the extras, the price does tick up, but quality costs and quality lasts. If you don’t simply blast ammo into the hillside to make noise, you’ll be a long time wearing out the Wilson Combat Super Sniper’s 6mm Creedmoor barrel.

Wilson Combat Super Sniper Specs

Type: AR-15, AR-10 (tested)Caliber: .223 Wylde, .224 Valkyrie, 6mm Creedmoor (tested), 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 Grendel, .260 Rem., .308 Win.Capacity: 20-round Lancer magazine suppliedBarrel: 20 in.Overall Length: 40.5 in.Weight: 8 lb., 11 oz.Receivers: Billet aluminum, burnt bronze/black Armor-Tuff handguard T.R.I.M. free-float M-LokStock: Magpul PRS Gen3 fixed; Bravo Company grip Wilson starburstSights: None; full-length optics railTrigger: TTU 2-stage, 4 lb. pull (measured)Price: $3,020 (base), $5,525 (as tested)Manufacturer: Wilson Combat, wilsoncombat.com

Wilson Combat Super Sniper Accuracy Results

When it comes to long-range shooting, there are two commonly used types of scope measurements, known as the milliradian (MRAD or MIL) and minutes-of-angle (MOA) systems. These are two separate but equally useful approaches for aligning rifle scopes, used to accurately zero in on a target via a segmented circle.

The style you choose will depend much on your personal preferences when shooting at a distance. But there are many things that may influence your decision. Here, we’ll cover the main differences between MOA and MRAD/MIL, and what they mean for your scope accuracy.

Use the links to skip ahead if you know what you want to learn about:

Some Background on How Scope Reticles and Turrets Work

There are two main components of aligning your scope properly: the reticle and turret. The reticle, either a crosshair or a red dot, provides an aiming point within the scope’s field of view. In the old days, shooters would stretch two pieces of horse hair across their scope to help guide their shot, hence the origin of the name crosshairs. In today’s shooting world, however, reticles are usually either laser-etched directly on the glass or made from simple wire. Reticles have become so advanced in recent years that some are capable of compensating for both bullet drop and windage, otherwise known as Bullet Drop Compensating (BDC) scopes.

A turret is a turnable knob on your scope used to adjust the reticle, and is normally located on the top and left side, and sometimes on both sides of the scope. There are two main types of turrets: target turrets and ballistic turrets. Target turrets were originally developed to assist long-range target shooters during competition. Using a tall turret with external markings in MOA, it allowed them to make fine adjustments when raising or lowering bullet impact. Ballistic turrets are raised as well but contain markings that usually come in 100-yard increments, providing a simpler and quicker way to adjust bullet trajectory.

When sighting or zeroing in on an optic, the reticle and turret are used in conjunction with each other to achieve the most precise long-range shot possible. This involves turning the turrets purposefully in order to move the crosshair left and right, up and down, ever so slightly.

Today’s scopes offer more accurate measuring capabilities, higher magnification, and better clarity to provide the shooter with more precision, power, and best of all, control over long-range shots. However, with more complex scope products available than ever, it can be hard to understand how to properly utilize all the marks and measurements so you can gain an accurate alignment. To help, you’ll first need to understand the difference between the two independent systems for scope alignment: MOA and MRAD.

What Is MRAD (Milliradians)?

Designed in a base-10 formula and developed for artillery purposes in the late 1800s, the MRAD method offers high-precision, easy-to-adjust scope alignment. Milliradian units (MRADs or MILs) are especially popular in military, police, and other highly tactical situations because of the measurement’s consistency over any range—a MIL is a MIL at 10 yards or a thousand yards. For that reason, they are also growing in popularity within the civilian market.

What Does MRAD Stand For?

MRAD stands for Milliradian, sometimes also abbreviated as MIL or MilRad. It’s a standard unit of angular measure, applicable throughout many areas of mathematics. In shooting, however, they are considered one-tenth increments, and the measurements work out to produce whole numbers. In realistic terms, MRAD established deflection is precisely .9999 centimeters at 100 meters or 99.99 centimeters at 1,000 meters. As you can see, the difference is negligible in terms of accuracy, so you can confidently count one centimeter at 100 meters, five centimeters at 500 meters, 10 centimeters at 1,000 meters, and so on. Because of this, MRAD is normally thought of as the easier and quicker method in terms of setting up long-distance shots, compared to the MOA method.

How Does MRAD Apply to Shooting?

MRAD-style scopes are best used in tactical scenarios when high-precision shooting is required. For example, U.S. Military forces use MIL-based scopes for certain weapon sets like snipers, machine guns, and mortars, largely because they’re capable of quickly measuring targets and compensating for changes in distance. Once you’re able to master the adjustments, they provide the ability for more precise measurements in a smaller amount of time. This video shows how an MRAD scope looks when zeroing in a rifle.

What is MOA (Minute-of-Angle)?

The other form of measurement is known as MOA, and was created by ancient Sumerians for astrological purposes. It’s set up in a base-60 format and then further broken down from there to provide an accurate measure of distance. In shooting, MOA is used to measure group size, target size, or shot dispersion, which has a circumference of approximately one inch at 100 yards on impact.

What Does MOA Stand For?

MOA stands for minute-of-angle and represents an angular measurement using a 360-degree circle. Splitting that 360-degree circle further, one MOA is equal to 1/60th of one degree. There are 21,600 MOAs in a full circle, giving the shooter precise marks to make adjustments against when zeroing in on a target. In simple terms, MOA is 1/60 of one degree of a 360-degree circle. At 100 yards, one MOA is close to one inch (1.047 inches exactly), at 200 yards MOA would be two inches, three inches at 300 yards, and so on. The caveat with MOA measurements, however, unlike with MRAD, is that the larger the distance, the more skewed your measurement gets when you round down. At 1,000 yards, for example, it’d be approximately 10 inches, but the real measurement is actually 10.47 inches. If not adjusted for, that half-inch could seriously affect the result of your shot.

What is an MOA Scope?

When searching for an MOA scope, you’ll find the majority of precision scopes come in one-eighth MOA, while standard scopes come in one-fourth MOA and red-dot scopes in one-half MOA. What this means is that with each turn of the dial you’re adjusting the scope in fractions of an inch. For example, every four clicks on a one-fourth MOA adjustable scope is one MOA, which is an inch at 100 yards. Because of this variety, many shooters find reticle alignment more difficult, in that some scopes do not produce whole numbers. Rather, it resembles something similar to .25 inches at 100 yards, .50 inches at 200 yards, and .75 inches at 300 yards.

Let’s say you’re shooting at a 100-yard target and the bullet misses your target. Using an MOA scope, you can turn the turrets to adjust the reticle for a more accurate shot. How much of an adjustment you make will depend on how far off your shot was. For instance, if you’re an inch above the bullseye, you’d want to adjust the point of aim by that same amount—or by one MOA. If your scope is calibrated at one-fourth MOA per click, then you’d need to adjust the down-position turret by four clicks (¼ * 4 = 1 MOA). Similar adjustments for left and right aiming can be made using the other available turret.

MRAD vs. MOA for Hunters

As with everything in the firearms world, there’s debate about the maximum distance you should be able to ethically shoot game. And, with ever-improving scope and rifle accuracy, it seems there will never be a clear-cut answer. It ultimately rests with what you’re personally comfortable with. That being said, the concept of one MOA at 100 yards is quick and easy to grasp, and it’s accurate enough for medium-range distances (the higher the distance the more accurate math required of 1.047 inches vs. a rounded-down one inch). However a MIL-based scope is still probably a better tool of measurement when hunting moving targets at a longer distance.

It’s true that MOA provides more precision, but because of this, it also requires more adjustment turns on a turret. MIL-based turrets, on the other hand, require fewer clicks to make a needed correction—something that can come in handy when you’re tracking an elk at 500 yards, for example. Either way, you can train yourself in any system that you’re comfortable with, and even mix if you’re good at making on-the-go calculations in your head. At the end of the day, the simplest method for you is most likely the smartest choice.

MRAD vs. MOA for Competitive Shooters

In competitive shooting scenarios, it’s generally recommended to use the MRAD system, unless you’re a seasoned competitor who is used to MOA. MOA is technically more precise, but realistically, the average person won’t be able to shoot the difference of one-tenth of a meter vs. one-fourth of an inch.

Another benefit of using MRAD in competitive shooting is that the majority of competitors will be using it as well, making it much easier to communicate with others. Most long-range sport shooters are migrating to the MRAD system if they haven’t already, and for simplicity’s sake, it makes sense to be on the same page as those you’re competing with or against.

As you begin participating in more and more competitive shooting events, you’ll find that most things—from wind holds to elevation holds to called misses to target size and beyond—will use an angular measurement (for example, “adjust one-tenth right and quarter MIL down”). As such, making changes to the scope’s reticle is easier when fellow shooters can provide instruction without you or others translating measurements.

MRAD to MOA Conversion

In general, it’s best to avoid mixing and matching MOA/MRAD turrets and reticles. Doing so results in some complicated math and having to do calculations on the fly, whereas sticking to one or the other requires fewer conversions and generally keeps it simple. For example, an MOA reticle with MOA turrets keeps measurements under the imperial system umbrella. However, if you do need to convert MRAD to MOA or vice versa, use the following formulas:

• MOA to MIL: MOA / 3.438 = MIL
• MIL to MOA: MIL * 3.438 = MOA

Which is Easier to Use: MIL (MRAD) or MOA?

The type of scope you choose will ultimately depend on what you’re more comfortable with. Those that prefer the metric system will find MRAD calculations easier, while if you use the imperial system, an MOA scope is ideal. Even though the two styles are very close in accuracy, the wide majority of shooters prefer MRAD due to the fact that it’s standardized in the military. For instance, one-fourth MOA gives slightly finer adjustments than one-tenth MRAD, but it’d be hard for even the best shooters to see a noticeable difference in precision. However, because of its popularity among these two communities, that popularity tends to carry over into the civilian realm, as well.

The Choice is Yours

Ultimately, it’s up to you which style of scope you purchase. The differences between MOA and MRAD mainly lie in which system of measurement you’re most comfortable with—metric vs. imperial—and your ability to conduct quick conversions or employ formulas that improve shot accuracy at long distances.

The best advice we can give you is to try both systems out. If you’re new to one or the other, put effort into learning that system of measurement to figure out what fits in with your shooting style. In general, each system provides a high level of precision, and just because the military and police stick to MIL doesn’t mean that it’s any more effective than MOA. At the end of the day, they’re both standard measurements that you can become proficient in.

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That’s a question that pet owners have been asking for years. Some people swear that they have seen a raccoon snatch up a cat right out of their yard, while others believe that raccoons prefer to stick to their own kind and would never touch a feline. So, what’s the truth? Are raccoons predators of cats, or are they simply taking advantage of an easy meal? Keep reading to learn more about this topic.

Why are Raccoons a Threat to Cats?

Raccoons are a threat to cats because they are predators. Raccoons will eat small animals, including cats if they have the opportunity. While it is not common for raccoons to hunt and eat cats, it is always important for pet owners to take measures to protect their pets from possible predators, including raccoons. Raccoon-resistant trash cans and animal fencing can help keep pets safe from these critters.

(How to get rid of chipmunks? See this post for more)

What Can You Do To Protect Your Cat From Raccoons?

There are several things that you can do to protect your cat from raccoons. One of the best things that you can do is to make sure that your cat is up-to-date on its vaccinations. This will help to protect your cat from diseases that raccoons may carry. You should also keep your cat indoors, especially at night when raccoons are most active. If you must let your cat outdoors, make sure that it is in a secure area that raccoons cannot access. Finally, make sure to clean up any food or garbage that might attract raccoons to your property. By taking these precautions, you can help to keep your cat safe from harm.

How To Keep Raccoons Out Of Cat Food?

One way to keep raccoons out of cat food is to store the food in a securely sealed container. Raccoons are very clever and resourceful animals, so it is important to make sure that the container is not something that they can easily open. You should also keep the food in a place where raccoons cannot reach it, such as on a high shelf or in a locked cupboard. Finally, you can try feeding your cat at times when raccoons are not active, such as during the day.

(How To Get Rid Of Iguanas? See this post for more)

Do Raccoons Eat Cat Food?

It is not common for raccoons to eat cat food, as they prefer to eat small mammals, insects, and fruits and vegetables. However, there have been cases where raccoons have eaten cat food, so it is important to be aware of this possibility if you have a pet cat. If you are concerned that raccoons might be attracted to your cat’s food, you can take measures to protect the food, such as storing it in a securely sealed container or keeping it in a place where raccoons cannot reach it.

What Do Raccoons Eat?

Raccoons typically eat small mammals, insects, and fruits and vegetables. This diet helps them to stay healthy and provides them with the nutrients that they need.

Raccoons In Backyard? Here’s What to Do:

If you have a raccoon in your backyard, one of the best things to do is to contact a professional wildlife control company (or take care of it by yourself with an air rifle). These companies are experienced in safely removing raccoons from properties. Once the raccoon has been removed, you can take steps to prevent them from returning, such as sealing up any holes or gaps that they might use to get back into your yard. You should also make sure to clean up any food or garbage that might attract raccoons to your property.

(For more on the best air rifles for pest control, see this post)

FAQs

Can raccoons transmit diseases to my cat?

Yes, raccoons can transmit diseases to cats. This is why it is important to make sure that your cat is up-to-date on its vaccinations. Additionally, you should take measures to keep raccoons away from your cat, such as keeping it indoors or in a secure area outdoors.

Can raccoons give my cat rabies?

Yes, raccoons can give cats rabies. This is why it is so important to make sure that your cat is up-to-date on its vaccinations.

Can cats help in keeping raccoons away?

Having a cat would not necessarily mean having no raccoons in your backyard. Raccoons are dangerous and robust animals, and they are bigger than your cat. This means that even the friendliest cat cannot protect your property from a raccoon invasion.

A raccoon has injured my cat, what should I do?

If a raccoon has injured your cat, the first thing that you should do is to take your cat to the vet. It is also important to contact a professional wildlife control company to have the raccoon removed from your property. Once the raccoon has been removed, you can take steps to prevent them from returning, such as sealing up any holes or gaps that they might use to get back into your yard. You should also make sure to clean up any food or garbage that might attract raccoons to your property.

Other animals that can attack your cat:

1. Dogs

2. Coyotes

3. Foxes

4. Bobcats

5. Owls

6. Hawks

7. Weasels

8. Raccoons

9. Bears

10. Cougars

Conclusion

Raccoons are easily adaptive, and their diet depends on whatever they have access to, if that means your cat, they will attack it and eat it. Raccoons will eat your cat if they do have other food resources around them but there are cases where they will only get into quarrels with them over fight or territory. It is best to keep your cats inside and away from any potential danger. If you do find a raccoon in your backyard, the best thing to do would be to contact professional help to get it removed as quickly as possible. There are also measures you can take afterward to prevent them from returning.

“You have an AR-15. You’re coming.”

So, despite my naïve protests about being a shooter not a hunter, I was dragged into the world of tactical hunting. A pile of dead hogs later, I was hooked. I no longer own any of the gear I used that day. I’ve gone through many iterations and changes in my kit. Thanks in part to my role here at SHWAT.com I’ve had opportunities to try all kinds of configurations for hog hunting guns. So when I was recently asked about how to set up an AR-15 for Hog Hunting, I readily agreed to answer here. While I’ll be the first to say that there’s no one size that fits all, when you’ve finished reading I think you’ll have a better idea of how to set up your own AR-15 for some tactical hog hunting. Then it’s time to chase some wild boar!

Why focus specifically on setting up the AR-15 for hog hunting? It’s this generation’s gun, and for good reason. The limitless configurations make it one of the most versatile guns on earth. The hardest part is figuring out what you want, never mind need, as you customize your AR-15. Since you’re reading this, you’re more likely to own an AR-15 than any other single gun. Here are some questions and answers for you to consider when getting set up to hunt wild hogs with yours.

Caliber? Perhaps your first consideration is caliber. I don’t know how many different calibers an AR-15 can be built in. Hogs are hunted with a lot of them including .223/5.56, 300 Blackout, .458 SOCOM, 6.5 Grendel, 6.8 SPC II, and countless others. I’ve killed hogs with most of those and others as well. This will surprise some, but not everyone: I’ve killed more wild pigs with .223 than any other caliber. Modern loads render some of the old conventional wisdom obsolete. Remington Hog Hammer made with Barnes 62 grain TSX bullets has demonstrated excellent performance for SHWAT™ writer Brian McCombie, and I’ve had great experience with DRT Ammo’s .223 on hogs weighing 200+ pounds.

A lot of buzz over 300 Blackout during the past couple of years has lead many to explore that round. I’ve been cautious about getting too wrapped up in it, but I plan to give it a workout this year. Having hunted with sub sonic rounds through a short barreled AR pistol with Liberty Suppressors Mystic X silencer, I wasn’t impressed. Maybe it was the ammo; maybe the distance was too great. It was definitely quiet. We’ll try it again with some unique ammo, but super sonic 300 Blackout looks more promising. But like .458 SOCOM and 6.8 SPC II, your range is a bit more limited. If you’re hunting under 200 yards, any of these rounds should be great. If you’re planning longer range hog hunting, the 6.5 Grendel might just be your pick.

Day or Night? Night hunting hogs is a real blast. Adding a white light to your gun is easy and doesn’t have to cost a fortune. If the shooting gets fast as the daylight fades to dark, your white light becomes a real asset. I’ve watched Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat point a white light at hogs who were undeterred by its presence. Bill has spent countless hours with the hogs figuring out which white lights scare them, and the specifics of color temperature and technique that leave hogs comfortable and vulnerable.

Most hunters effectively bagging hogs in the dark have instead employed a broad variety of weapon mounted green and red lights, particularly when hunting predictable places like feeders. Alternatively, you can also equip a feeder with remote control lights like the Inhawgnito, but that’s another story. Flashlights in white, green and red are all easy add-ons to your AR build that won’t trash your bottom line. An important side note: you’ll want your AR to use a hand guard that allows for mounting accessories. Three or four years ago that generally meant a quad picatinny rail. Today you have countless options.

But there are better, albeit far more expensive, doors to crash. Jump into the high tech world of night vision and thermal optics and you’re into a whole new level of the game. Instead of spending a hundred dollars for a light, you’ll spend ten to twenty times that to access what many consider to be the pinnacle of tactical hunting. Case in point: Recently I’ve been highly impressed by the line of thermal optics from IR Defense. I’ve watched IRD grow for a year, and recently hunted with their IR Hunter Mk II. Using this thermal optic, I was able to identify hogs at 400 yards and shoot them on the run at 125 yards. Thermal can fool you though. Rocks at a distance can look remarkably like a group of pigs far off. Stay tuned to SHWAT.com for more on that.

An alternative to thermal is traditional night vision (NV). We’re talking the usual green images. It’s great military technology available to us and allows for the use of infrared lasers and illuminators of countless price points and configurations. The best gear for this is almost as pricey as thermal, but has the added benefit of being able to drive and scan for hogs without any additional lighting. For as little as $3100 a number of manufacturers like TNVC are producing NV monoculars that can be mounted to your AR-15 or to a helmet. We’ll cover your NV options more thoroughly later on here at SHWAT.com.

Hunting during the day is pretty straightforward. Have an optic that works for your scenario and get to work. Obviously, your scenario makes a difference along with your preference in optics. Years ago I invested in a Trijicon ACOG ECOS system that gave me a 4x magnified optic with a red dot 1x unmagnified optic combination. It remains a favorite set up. Red dot sights like the EoTech and Aimpoint optics are super fast to use with both eyes open and I’ve enjoyed great success with them as well. If you plan on bagging multiple hogs from a group, you’ll be hard pressed to beat this kind of a set up.

Alternatively, more magnification both increases the ranges you can make confident shots at and adds precision to virtually any shot beyond 50 yards. There are probably as many magnified optics choices as there are ammo choices. Lots of optics are good enough to hunt hogs mid day at 150 yards. Your run of the mill 3-9x scope might be just fine. However, cheap scopes simply aren’t as sharp and lose contrast quickly at higher magnification. Lack of high quality optical coatings can leave you unable to see clearly with your scope angled towards a late afternoon or early morning sun, washing out when pointed in the direction of the sun. Brands like Trijicon, Nightforce, US Optics and Bushnell Elite Tactical are all winners at various price and feature points.

How will you hunt? If you hunt from a blind you might not need a sling on your AR-15. I prefer spot and stalk hunts which leave me carrying my rifle so I value a sling. Single point slings are often preferred by tactical shooters, but for walking any significant distance, I prefer the stability of a good two point sling over an AR bouncing around on a single point sling. Over time I’ve collected a number of slings including convertible single/dual point models, but my go-to sling, a Viking Tactics two point padded model, remains my favorite.

Triggers? If precision is important to your hunting, you need an upgraded trigger. Truth is, once you’ve used a good drop in trigger replacement you’ll probably loath whatever trigger came in your rifle. I’ve pulled Timney, Wilson Combat, CMC flat triggers and plenty of others. It seems like there’s a new drop in trigger maker for the AR-15 popping up every other month. Most are pretty good; some have nice proven track records if that’s important to you.

While there’s no limit on interchangeable AR-15 configurations, these considerations combined with your personal preferences of brand, grips, stocks, etc. will get you all set to hog hunt with your AR-15. Fact is, getting set up to hunt hogs with the puzzle pieces covered here will also get you set up to effectively hunt various varmints, deer and other exciting prospects for the tactical hunter. Want to show off your favorite setup? Tag @SHWATteam on Instagram.

Having gained the experience he needed on earlier hunts for Dall’s sheep (Ovis dalli dalli), Harry Swank, Jr., a resident of Anchorage, decided to try for a really outstanding ram in Alaska’s Wrangell Mountains. He knew there were some wonderful heads to be found there, even though the world’s record, at that time, had come from the Chugach Mountains. Swank’s story occurred in September 1961, and offers an excellent example of trophy hunting at its very best.

“A man must want a trophy pretty badly to put in all that time, and that man was me,” Swank said. “So last season I went into the wild Wrangell Mountains of Alaska with my hunting partner, Perley Jones, and guide Jack Wilson. From Jack’s base camp at Gulkana we made a number of reconnaissance flights deep into the mountains and finally picked an area that was so shockingly rough and remote it is seldom, if ever, visited by hunters. Then in September, I was put down on a big, tilted glacier—an operation that called for infinite skill. The country was as hostile as any a man is likely to meet; forbidding glaciers bounded by treacherous crevasses; cliffs whose sheer faces seemed insurmountable; and miserable weather.

“After a good night’s sleep, Perley and I made a blood-curdling descent down the side of the main glacier into a valley. Moving slowly up a canyon we carefully glassed the surrounding ridges. There were sheep, but nothing that looked like a world’s record. By now it was well into the afternoon, but I decided to have a look at what lay beyond the next hill. The hill proved to be farther away than I’d estimated and the sun was getting dangerously low when I finally glassed the valley beyond it. Seeing nothing, I was about to return to camp when two rams suddenly appeared on a ridge a quarter-mile away. One was a youngster but the other was huge—bigger than any sheep I’d ever seen.

“Caught out in the open, there was nothing I could do but try to get closer to the ram,” Swank said. “Strangely enough, I managed to get within a few hundred yards of it before the young sheep noticed me and started to act nervous. Groaning inwardly, I dropped to the ground and brought my .264 against my shoulder. The great white sheep moved closer to the edge of the ridge and peered down curiously. Instantly I brought the crosshairs to bear, but as my finger tightened on the trigger, doubts began to assail me. Should I shoot or wait? I was not sure this ram was of world’s-record stature, and if I shot him my hunt would be over for the year.

“‘Maybe,’ I was saying when the rifle went off, almost by itself, with a wham, before I’d truly made up my mind,” Swank recalled. “The big ram leaped convulsively, then slumped to the ground. By now it was almost dark.

“The next morning I carefully measured the curl and learned that my seven year quest was over—the head was a world’s record,” Swank said. “Later, the Boone and Crockett Club officially scored it at 189-6/8 points.”

This trophy won the coveted Sagamore Hill Award in the 1961, signifying both trophy excellence and a hunt exhibiting the finest standards of fair chase.

The woods and wild places are drawing people to them. A weekend in the woods can wash away the stain of florescent lighting and it can reset your circadian rhythm. It seems that most of us understand the damage that our hyper convenient, over digitized, and sedentary lifestyle is doing to us.

More people are seeking the “tonic of the wilderness” as Thoreau called it.

Making wilderness shelter is something that calls to people on these wild adventures. So, let’s talk about how you can make the most fundamental and one of the most effective wilderness shelters of them all. I am talking about the lean-to shelter.

The Importance of Wilderness Shelter

What is the main reason for learning to build these wilderness shelters? Aside from just the fun of building your own fort out in the woods, there is a very important reason for studying and learning to make wilderness shelter.

This is your answer to needing shelter in a wilderness survival situation. When you need to get out of the elements and you need to affect your core body temperature a good shelter can capture your body heat and combined with fire could even save your life!

The lean-to can be a quick answer to that wilderness shelter to help you survive a wilderness emergency.

What is a Lean To Shelter?

It is called a lean-to shelter because the main wall of the shelter leans on a ridge pole. The leaning wall does double duty to protect you from the weather that could be falling above you and also the wind coming from behind. This leaning wall also traps some of your heat and holds it in your shelter.

Be sure you choose a nice flat area to build your shelter and it would help if you set up near some water sources to assure you can stay hydrated.

These shelters are easy to build and require minimal materials. This is why they are so popular when it comes to building a shelter for wilderness survival.

Gear Needed to Build a Lean To Shelter

The gear you need to build your lean-to shelter is minimal but if you have the right tools it will make an easy job even simpler.

• Folding Saw
• Cordage
• Tarp
• Survival Knife

Lean To Between Trees

The most common build for the lean-to shelter is between two trees. The hardest part about this build is finding the two trees to place the shelter between.

You are looking for 2 sturdy trees that are about 7 feet apart from one another. Pay attention to the land between those two trees. The more level the ground the better.

Now you are going to find yourself a nice sturdy ridge pole that is about 8 feet long. I find that cutting down some greenwood is best for this. I usually seek out some young American Holly. It’s strong wood and will be nice and sturdy as a ridge pole. Cut yourself an 8-foot ridge pole.

Set the ridgepole up no more than 4 feet tall. Lash the ridge pole three times with paracord. If you have 2 people this process is a lot easier. If not you can still pull it off.

With the same cord lash three times to the tree. Then three more to one side of the ridge pole and again three lashes around the tree. I run the remaining cordage between the tree and the pole warping to create tension. Tie your cordage off and move to the next side of the ridge pole.

Repeat the process on the opposite side of the pole and the second tree.

With your ridge pole in place, you can start looking for green branches to start leaning on the shelter. Green pine branches are great for this and will become the ribs of your shelter. Lean them on the ridge pole at about a 45-degree angle.

Once you achieve a collection of these branches all lined up then you can place pine boughs or just use a tarp to finish off the shelter.

Attach the tarp first at the ridge pole. You can tie it down to the trees or the ridge pole on either side. Then pull it tight and stake it to the ground.

If you have a nice big tarp then you might even want to create a simple A-frame shelter for yourself.

Detached Lean To

The detached lean-to shelter is built on the very same principle but your ridge pole is not lashed to trees. This is a good shelter to know how to build if you are in sparse forests. It can be a challenge to find trees that are set apart in just the right manner with the right ground underneath them.

In this case, you can create a couple strong tripods. You might think that building a tripod is only for smoking meats or cooking over a fire but the tripod can become the basis for your entire shelter. Look for some nice thick pine branches. You are going to need 6 of these in total.

To create your simple tripod you are going to lash the first branch three times with paracord, grab the next branch and continue with the paracord by lashing this next one. Then finally lash three times on the last branch and this will connect them all. The cordage will also keep the tripod nice and snug.

If you want you can create your tripod and then wrap more cordage around where all the sticks meet.

When you have created two similar-sized tripods you are going to place your ridge pole on top of both tripods and build your lean-to shelter normally.

Inside the Lean To

No matter what lean-to you have constructed you can also consider the inside of the shelter and how you would like to sit and sleep and store your gear.

You can make smaller lean-tos but I like to have room to store gear and get things out of the rain if need be. You can scoop up pine needles and put your sleeping pad and bag on top of them. This will add some cushion beneath you and also keep you from losing lots of heat to the hard ground through convection.

Some people will cut logs and create a wood floor in the bottom of their lean-to shelter. It is also nice to shove those pine needles to the back of the shelter to trap more of your heat inside the shelter. Pine boughs can make a nice bed, too.

You can customize this quick emergency shelter how you see fit.

Warm and Dry Through the Night

The lean-to wilderness survival shelter is a simple design that every woodsman should try to assemble. If you have the right gear and a little knowledge you can set yourself up with a comfortable shelter that will keep you warm and dry through the night.

Wilderness survival shelters could be the difference between a cold night or hypothermia if you find yourself in a wilderness survival emergency.

When I think of skinning a bear, I’m reminded of one of my favorite hunts with my son in Montana. When he was only 12 years old, he took down a bear with his rifle using the “spot and stalk” method.

Getting within range of those bears and taking the shot is a big challenge. I’m proud of my son for accomplishing that Herculean task, and even prouder of how we skinned that bear together after it was taken down.

Skinning a bear is no easy feat. It takes precision, concentration, and strategy. Don’t worry – we’ve been there and can explain how to do it, step by step.

What to Know Before Skinning a Bear

Skinning a bear is very different from dressing other game. A bear’s anatomy poses certain challenges that all hunters should be aware of. For the purposes of this blog, we’ll focus on how to skin a black bear; however, the following tips also apply to brown bears.

If you’re planning to bring your bear to a taxidermist (or even if you aren’t), it’s important to keep the bear in the best possible condition. The paws are a bear’s most distinguishing feature and must be left on the hide. If you’re a beginner, do not try to skin out the paws yourself — your taxidermist will thank you.

Speaking of the hide, it also needs to be preserved as well as possible. Avoid poking holes in it and ensure it’s clean before delivering it to the taxidermist. This will increase the chances of successful tanning.

How to Prepare to Skin a Bear

Be aware of what you’ll need to deliver to the taxidermist. As mentioned, don’t try to skin out the paws on your own; deliver them attached to the hide.

Next, you must know how to field dress a bear. Game bags are crucial for keeping the meat clean and organized, so be sure to have them at the ready. Clear your surrounding area and drag the bear to a clean spot, keeping dirt off the hide.

Place the bear on pine needles, leaves, or grass to maintain cleanliness. Open garbage bags also help preserve the meat. If it’s hot, move the bear to a shaded area to rapidly cool the hide and carcass.

Along with game and garbage bags, a reliable fixed-blade knife is a must-have. Additionally, carrying some paracord can be useful, especially if you’re on your own and need to secure a leg while you’re skinning a bear.

You won’t need a saw for this job. Your fixed-blade knife can handle everything you need.

How to Skin a Black Bear: Step by Step

Let’s get to the meat of this blog post (pun intended). Here’s how to skin a bear:

1. Lay the bear on its back with its legs spread out (it should resemble a starfish).
2. Once the bear is situated, make a center cut from the anus straight through the bear’s belly to the base of the neck. Then, on the inside portion of the front legs, make a cut from the joint (of the wrist) near the foot up to the armpit area, angling up and forward into the center of the sternum.
3. On the inside of its back legs, cut from the foot joint to the centerline cut you made in step 2.
4. Next, you’ll begin to skin out the front and back quarters. Start on one side of the bear, then move to the other and put it in a game bag.
5. While skinning the legs, cut the joint just above the foot to keep the paw attached to the hide. Then remove that skin from that leg with the paw still attached. Remember, it’s important to keep the paws attached when skinning a bear for a rug or other taxidermy.
6. From that point, skin the hide away from the rest of the carcass, being careful to keep dirt off the hide.
7. Finally, cut through the neck at the base of the skull and remove the bear head from the carcass, but keep it attached to hide.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Skinning a Bear

Resist the temptation to skin the head and paws separately. I cannot emphasize enough that they must stay attached to the hide.

Also, refrain from folding the meat and hide before they completely cool. Hair is a great insulator; it’ll spoil the meat on the inside, and cause hair to fall out of the hide.

Don’t leave too much fat on the hide while skinning a bear. Removing as much fat as possible reduces packing weight. Be careful while you do this — avoid cuts in the hide as well as you can.

Most importantly, only salt the hide after removing all the flesh, as it will make proper mounting nearly impossible.

The post-skinning process is pretty simple: Cool the animal down and get it to your taxidermist as soon as possible. Freezing or storing it in a cooler or on ice in a garbage bag provides optimal conditions for the taxidermist.

How to Skin a Bear: Final Thoughts

Like anything, learning how to skin a bear takes repetition and time. I’ve definitely improved my process since I became a master bladesmith years ago.

Even if you’ve been skinning bears for years, there’s always room to improve, so we encourage you to save this post for future reference. Following these steps and avoiding common mistakes will make a big difference in your skinning practice.

by Josh Smith, Master Bladesmith and Founder of Montana Knife Company

Ask any gun enthusiast which is their favorite rifle cartridge, and they will most likely tell you the .308. First introduced in 1952, it has become the cartridge of choice for hunting, sporting, military, and law enforcement.

Deep penetration and long-range capability are some of the reasons why it is so beloved. Also, the .308 Winchester is compatible with a wide variety of rifles. So much so that it is tough to pin down the best 308 rifles.

From bolt action rifles to AR-10s, the .308 Winchester is one of the most versatile cartridges out there. So which is the best .308 rifle on the market? This is undoubtedly a difficult question to answer.

Nonetheless, after researching extensively on the subject, we have narrowed it down to 10 rifles. These ten are in different categories. We have selected the ten based on their performance, user feedback, and our own personal experiences.

A Quick Check Of The Best 308 Hunting Rifle For The Money

The Best Bolt Action .308 Rifles

In an age where everything is automated, firearms included, bolt action rifles are a rare exception. To operate a bolt rifle you need to manually pull back the bolt and push it forward to chamber around. While these rifles rely on a rather ancient technology, their reliability cannot be disputed. They are popular with hunters. However, they are also used as sniper rifles in the military. From our research the best bolt action .308 rifles are;

Savage Arms 10 FCP HS Precision Rifle

• 24-inch barrel
• Matte black finish
• Removable 4-round magazine
• 10-pound weight

The title of the best 308 bolt action rifle for the money goes to the Savage Arms 10 FCP precision rifle. At its core, it is a versatile rifle capable of fulfilling several roles. It has all the features of a reliable tactical gun and is also a dependable hunting rifle for deer.

Carbon steel is the primary material used to make this weapon. It is the material that is used to build the rifle’s 24-inch barrel as well as its receiver. Speaking of the receiver, we found it to be super rigid.

As for the barrel, it is built with a heavy profile aimed at minimizing barrel whip. At the back is the adjustable Savage AccuTrigger. The rifle is fitted with a removable magazine that holds four rounds.

Our main issue with the rifle is that it is not the most lightweight. Weighing 9.6 pounds, mainly this is quite a heavy firearm. However, this is primarily due to the heavy barrel.

Remington® Model 783™ Bolt-Action Rifle and Scope Combo

• Adjustable crossfire trigger system
• Factory pre-installed 3-9×40 scope for 308 cal
• Removable steel box magazine
• 22-inch Magnum Contour Barrel

Costing over $1000, the Savage Arms 10 FCP is not for everyone. The same cannot be said about Remington’s 783 bolt action rifle. Priced at below $500, it is one of the more affordable options available on the market.

The rifle comes with a free-floated carbon steel barrel. But what makes this rifle stand out is the adjustable crossfire trigger system. We found the trigger system to be quite impressive, considering the rifle’s price.

We found the push-feed action and 90 degrees bolt throw smooth and positive. However, the gun’s two-position safety was a bit clunky. Nevertheless, it worked well enough. You get a four-round steel magazine with a steel magazine latch. This is a welcome addition given the price tag.

If you are on a budget, this is the best .308-action rifle. Its features are rare to find in guns at its price point.

Top Semi Auto Rifle 308

Unlike bolt action rifles, semi-automatic rifles use a gas blowback system to chamber rounds. Thus there is no manual operation. As such, they are considered ideal for tactical purposes.

The most popular semi-automatic rifles are AR-10-style firearms. For tactical purposes below is our pick of the best 308 tactical rifle.

Savage MSR 10 Hunter Semiautomatic Tactical Rifle

• 5R rifled 18-inch barrel
• Six-position AXIOM stock
• AR blaze trigger
• The lower and upper receiver

Savage Arms’ MSR 10 Hunter may look like an AR-10-style weapon, but it’s very different from conventional AR-10s. As its name suggests, it is built for hunting purposes. However, it can be used as a tactical rifle as well.

With a 16-inch barrel, its design is reminiscent of that or a carbine. Meaning it will be easy to use in either a tree stand or a ground blind. It uses the same direct impingement of other gas-operated AR-10s.

Compared to other AR-10-style firearms, this one has a shortened aluminum-alloy receiver. Similarly, the bolt carrier is also shortened. The result is a shorter rifle that weighs less than most similar firearms.

Another unique feature is the 12-inch free-floating handguard with MagPul’s M-lock system. This comes in handy when you need to install accessories. Instead of hanging on the barrel nut, the handguard is bolted directly onto the upper receiver. This translates to the gun being more accurate.

Though it’s been around since 2017, it is the best semi-auto 308 chambered rifle around for hunting.

Top 308 Hunting Rifle

Hunting is an art that requires specialized tools. Thus, not every rifle is suited for hunting. The 308 hunting rifle needs to be lightweight and compact. A heavy rifle will be difficult to handle as you traverse different vegetation and environments.

Accuracy is another important factor to consider. Ideally, bolt-action rifles are best suited for hunting. And here are our top picks.

The Ruger No 1 Centerfires Rifles

• Sliding tang safety
• Ruger scope mounting system
• Sculpted receiver
• 18 inch barrel

The title of the best 308 rifles for hunting has to go to the Ruger No 1 Centerfires Rifle. A gun that has stood the test of time has proven itself time and time again. And remains a darling of many the world over.

Available in several variations, the single-shot hunting rifle is steeped in the simplicity of the past. What makes it so popular is its ambidextrous nature. There is no line disturbing comb on the buttstock, and neither is there a cheekpiece.

More importantly, it comes with a tang-mounted safety and no bolt to interfere with the operation. The buttstock has a rubber recoil pad with a black spacer. The pistol grip is something many love about this gun. This is a classic gun with all the features of a top-quality 308 hunting rifle.

So what makes it the best choice for hunters? For starters it has a thin action which makes it easy to hold in one hand. It’s also just the right height for carrying over your shoulder. The absence of a protruding bolt handle makes it easy to carry on while on horseback.

Winchester Model 70™ Featherweight Rifle

• 3-position safety
• Grade-I walnut stock
• Pachmayr Decelerator recoil pad
• 22 inch barrel

Like wine, the Model 70 has gotten better with age. This hard-hitting bolt-action rifle of the 1950s is still widely used. The walnut stock of the original Model 70 was a thing of beauty. And although modern Model 70’s come with a wooden stock, it is still a feast for the eyes.

While it has undergone design changes over its 66 years of existence, the modern Model 70 still retains some of the flair of the original. The current Model 70 still uses the original’s controlled round feeding system.

The MOA trigger system is by far the most exceptional trigger system to be fitted on a bolt-action rifle. It has zero take-ups, zero creeps, and zero overtravel. The stock still has the Pachmayr recoil pad that soaks up much of the recoil.

Top 308 Battle Rifle

The chaos of battle necessitates a semi-automatic rifle that is both hard-hitting and easy to handle. Throughout history, there have been a plethora of battle rifles designed for the 308 cartridges.

One of the most famous battle rifles is the M14 Garand. Thus it should come as no surprise that the best battle rifle is one that is a close relative of the Garand. The Springfield Armory M1A-A1 rifle.

Springfield Armory M1A-A1 semiautomatic rifle

• 18 inch carbon steel barrel
• Composite stock
• Two-stage trigger
• Muzzle break

The M1 Garand was the darling of the US military during world war two. It even saw action in Vietnam. Needless to say, it’s a legendary rifle, and its successor is no different. The Springfield Armory M1A-1A.

The walnut stock paired with a parkerized steel is reminiscent of its more legendary counterpart the M14 Garand. Left-handed shooters will love the positioning of the rifle’s charging handle. It is located on the right side of the action. Making it easy to reach.

One of the things we loved about this battle rifle is how easy it is to change the magazine. The positioning of the magazine release at the rear of the magazine well makes it easy to release the magazine.

The trigger is also a delight. It is a classic military two-stage trigger that requires little effort. While it is good enough to earn the title of the best 308 battle rifle, there are some things we did not like.

The main one is the positioning of the bolt release. Positioned on the left side of the receiver, we found it to be challenging to locate. All the same, it is a fantastic piece of military hardware that has continued the legacy of its predecessor.

308 Sniper Rifle Review

Sniper rifles are designed for precision shooting from a distance. As such, they require advanced technologies for accurate shooting. Due to their sophistication sniper rifles are quite costly. Most cost upwards of $5000. When you are splashing such kind of money on a rifle you need one that can deliver. The Accuracy International AX black rifle is undoubtedly the best you can buy.

Accuracy International AX Black .308 Win. 20” Rifle SFP PSR-BL308-BL20-SP

• 40.5-inch overall length
• Two-stage adjustable trigger
• 20-inch stainless barrel
• 20 MOA Picatinny rail

If you are feeling adventurous and want to splash money on the best 308 sniper rifle, you cannot go wrong with AX Black .308. The latter is a flagship sniper rifle from Accuracy International. Costing upwards of $7000 is quite the prize. Unlike most other guns on this list, this one is made from aircraft-grade aluminum. The aluminum is then coated in a corrosion-resistant protective coating. It comes installed with a rail for mounting accessories such as optics.

The QuickLoc barrel release system allows for easy and fast removal of the barrel. You can swap out the barrel using a 4 mm hex wrench. The whole process takes a few minutes. It is also fitted with a chassis folding stock that reduces the length of the gun by up to 260mm.

The magazine holds ten rounds and is a low-friction magazine. Accuracy International’s tested and proven 3-position safety improves the design of this weapon.

308 Tactical Rifle Reviews

When it comes to close-quarter combat or shooting tactical rifles are best. And the best tactical rifles are AR-10 and AR-15 style rifles. These rifles are also easy to handle and most importantly need to be ambidextrous.

Smith & Wesson M&P 10 sport

• 20 round magazine
• Picatinny rail system
• 6-position telescopic stock
• 16-inch barrel

AR-10-style rifles are considered fantastic for tactical purposes. And the Smith & Wesson M&P 10 sport is among the best. It is by far the best 308 tactical rifle due to its combination of excellent performance and a relatively affordable price tag.

Priced at around $1000, it is quite affordable for an AR-10 rifle. However, the most important thing is how it is compared to other AR-10 rifles. The first thing you notice about this rifle is the availability of all the main controls on both sides.

The safety selector, bolt catch, and magazine catch controls are available on both sides. This means it can be used comfortably by both left and right-handed shooters. Additionally, the magazine is textured to give a secure grip.

The upper receiver isn’t anything we haven’t seen before. You get the same forward assist and solid rail that comes with other AR-10 platforms. What was a bit disappointing about the rifle was the standard charging handle. It is stiff and small than average.

In spite of its few shortcomings, it is still the best 308 semi-auto tactical rifle in our view — especially given its price and features. If you are a serious hunter and want to get a perfect bull’s eye hit try to use one of today’s best bipods For AR 15 rifle.

Budget 308 Rifles Review

Spending $1000 on a rifle is not possible for everyone. For some of us, $500 is the most we are able and willing to spend on a firearm. Fortunately, there are some fantastic rifle options available in the budget market. These are rifles that cost less than $500. Ideally, a budget gun should offer quality without breaking the bank. Our choice for this category is the Ruger American Rifle Bolt action rifle.

Ruger American Rifle Bolt Action Rifles

• 3-5 pound adjustable trigger
• Rotary magazine
• Three-lug bolt
• 22 inch barrel

You don’t need to spend thousands of dollars on a bolt-action rifle. With $500 or less, you can get your hands on the Ruger American Rifle. While it is an affordable rifle, it does not feel or even look cheap thanks to its parts.

The stock is made of a rigid polymer plastic of some kind. It looks sleek and does not have the same grip as some other similar products. However, this isn’t a big problem. Its barrel, on the other hand, is a free-floating barrel. Generally, free-floating barrels offer more accuracy. Thus the use of a free-floating barrel is very much welcomed. Some people may not be pleased with the trigger on this rifle, though. Like many other budget rifles, it utilizes an adjustable trigger that feels cheap.

Nonetheless, this is not a deal-breaker, especially since this is designed to be a budget rifle for target shooting.

The Best 308 Rifles For The Money

Value for money is important when choosing a firearm. When choosing a firearm, it is important to consider the price and the features they offer. There should be a balance between the price and features offered by a firearm. The one firearm that offers the best balance of features and price is the Bergara B-14 HMR.

Bergara B-14 HMR

• 5 round magazine
• 20-inch barrel
• The adjustable extended bolt handle
• 9-pound weight

Precision shooters and big game hunters will love the Bergara B-4 HMR hunting bolt action rifle. Weighing about 9 pounds and fitted with a 22-inch contoured barrel, it is not too heavy for carrying through forests and foothills.

The stock of the gun helps in transitioning from a big game hunting rifle to a precision shooting one. An aluminum mini chassis is molded into the polymer stock to form a pistol grip. It also allows the barrel to float freely.

The stock also has an adjustable comb height and length of pull, which also aid inaccuracy. By loosening a thumbscrew on the side of the buttstock, you can increase height by 1.25 inches. The increased comb height allows for better shooting.

On the other hand, the 22-inch barrel is long enough to provide the velocity needed for a match. But it’s also not too long as to be difficult to maneuver while on a hunt.

What To Consider and Avoid Before Buying 308 Rifles

These ten are just a few of the many rifles that accept the .308 cartridge. The market is flooded with all kinds of .308 rifles. So how do you choose the best for you? It all depends on what you are going to use your gun for.

For Hunting

If you are a hunter, chances are you will be carrying your rifle for long distances. As such, the 308 hunting rifle needs to be lightweight and functional. Less emphasis is placed on accuracy when it comes to a hunting rifle. As more emphasis is placed on ease of handling and weight. A hunting rifle should be lightweight and easy to handle. Also, hunting rifles accommodate only a small number of rounds. In most states, there is a limit on the number of hunting rifles can hold. Most hunting rifles are built with internal magazines. Though these types of magazines are slower to load, they make the gun look sleek. Also, an internal magazine means fewer moving parts.

Weight

While hunting rifles are lightweight, target shooting rifles are not. In fact, for target shooting, you are encouraged to get a heavier gun. A gun with a heavy barrel rifle offers more stability, which is what you need when target shooting. Also, more weight means reduced felt recoil. It also means more stability in the sight picture. All of which are essential for target practice.

Cost

Three hundred eight rifle prices range from as low as $400 to as much as $7,000. For hunting purposes, a $500 rifle is more than sufficient. However, if you want a tactical rifle, be ready to spend a bit more cash. Tactical rifles are designed to offer the best of both worlds. They offer the maneuverability of a hunting rifle and the precision of a target-shooting rifle. As such, they come equipped with advanced features and technologies. These types of rifles are used mainly in military and law enforcement. Additionally, they are also commonly used in “run and gun” style shooting competitions. The bottom line there is no need to spend thousands of dollars for a rifle that you will use for hunting.

Brand

This isn’t the most critical factor to consider, but it is something to have in mind. Some of the best rifle brands include Winchester, Ruger, Remington, and Smith & Wesson. While there are many other gun makers out there, some people may feel comfortable buying from these mentioned.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

Due to the sheer number of rifles that use the .308 cartridge, you will be spoilt for choice when searching for a .308 rifle. Thus, it is essential to consider what type of rifle suits you best. While bolt action rifles are ideal for hunting, they are not recommended for close quarter shooting.

The use of the slingshot is not only intended for children. With the right attributes (power, construction materials, etc.), this tool can become a perfect weapon to practice hunting with a slingshot or slingshot hunting. In this case, how to choose your hunting slingshot? We will find out now in this article.

The different types of hunting slings

You can have a hunting slingshot by making it yourself. This approach does not require much DIY skill. But the easiest way would be to buy one. Moreover, you can find a wide range of choices on the market according to your needs.

According to legislation

According to current legislation on weapons in France, a hunting slingshot is classified into two categories according to its power. Between 2 and 20 joules, it is considered a category D-2-H weapon (free acquisition and possession for adults). For more than 20 joules, it is categorized as a category C-4 weapon (acquisition and possession subject to declaration).

Rustic slingshot

It is a traditional and artisanal manufacture. At the base, the slingshot or the sling was formed of a handle with two branches in Y form, on which were attached elastic bands joined to a flexible band, often in leather. To fire, the projectile (stone or metal ball) is placed on this flexible band by pinching two fingers. Then, the rubber band must be stretched by moving the arm that holds the handle away and the shot is fired after the pressure of the fingers is released on the projectile.

It is a simple manufacture, but generally not very effective.

Modern slingshot,

The modern slingshot is industrially made. Its handle is often made of metal frame or polycarbonate, its grip is designed to be ergonomic and its tubular or flat latex elastic is made to maximize: performance and durability.

For a more comfortable and optimized hunting slingshot, it is also possible to add

• An ergonomic handle: finger shape, non-slip grip, pistol shape, etc. ;
• An armrest: by leaning on the forearm, you can relieve your wrists (when tightening the elastic) and optimize your comfort by leaning on the forearm. On the other hand, opinions are not unanimous regarding shooting accuracy.
• A stabilizer: adding one or more weights stabilizes the slingshot and limits shaking.
• A sight: the addition of a sighting device ensures better shooting accuracy. For example, an optical or laser sighting system allows you to shoot accurately at more than 40 meters.
• Additional accessories: ball holder, flashlight holder, darts.

Varieties of slingshots according to its ammunition

The type of ammunition or projectile used to fire slingshots is numerous. Depending on your slingshot model and your hunting needs, you can choose from the following variety of ammunition.

Steel projectiles

These are metal balls with a diameter ranging from 0.68 mm to 0.44 mm. This type of projectile is extremely dangerous and does the most damage on impact. They have better stopping power and are particularly effective for hunting.

Glass projectiles

Glass ammunition is like a rubber-coated bullet. They can bounce more than steel, so be careful when using them at home.

Copper bullets

Some professional hunters like to use copper ball ammunition in their slingshots. However, these bullets are more expensive than steel and glass bullets. In addition, they tend to deform on impact, requiring experience to shoot them accurately.

Tungsten carbide projectiles

This is a hardened ammunition that is lighter than steel balls for the same strength. However, these bullets are expensive.

DIY bullets

You have a free choice on the type of projectile to use, from hex nuts and pebbles to plastic or wood. Just make sure you choose DIY ammunition that won’t quickly damage the slingshot’s rear firing block.

Choosing the right rubber band for your slingshot

The energy expended to propel the hunting slingshot projectile comes from the rubber band. A good slingshot rubber band provides above-average speed and shooting power. For example, professional hunters and slingshot users can hit targets up to 400 feet away using a professional setup.

You can distinguish between two types of slingshot rubber bands:

• Tubular models: these are the most commonly used in hunting slingshot design. They are known to be strong and durable.
• Flat models: this type of rubber band is characterized by its flexibility and ease of use. They are usually used for introductory slingshots or for defensive slingshots.

The material of your hunting slingshot

In order to have a sturdy, high-performance hunting slingshot, you must be careful to identify the material from which it was or should be made. For this, you will have the choice between metal, wood or plastic.

To know that:

• Metal is known for its lightness and strength, especially against wood. That’s why a metal sling is ideal for hunting and survival.
• Wood is the most common material for making traditional slingshots. It is an easy material to carve in order to make an aesthetic and authentic slingshot. Slingshots made from this material are often used for practice.
• Plastic stands out for its affordable price, its unmatched lightness. Nowadays, you can find durable and efficient slingshots capable of shooting, for example, slingshot balls at high powers and speeds. Only, it is not at the level of metal and wooden models.

Conclusion

There are so many models of hunting slingshots to choose from, whether they are rustic and traditional or more modern. In order to find the right model, it is important to know your needs. This goes for finding the type of slingshot and the type of ammunition that is right for you.

Are you planning to use your weapon for practice or to hunt a particular game? It needs to have sufficient power. This power is based on the choice of rubber band. Between flat and tubular rubber bands, you will have a variety of choices depending on the model of slingshot at your disposal.

For the choice of ammunition, it must match the model of slingshot, as well as your hunting needs. For this, there is a wide variety of ammunition on the market (steel, glass, copper, tungsten carbide, etc.).

If you can’t choose the right model among the many ranges that exist on the market, we suggest you to see our selection of hunting slings.