by Brett McComas

No doubt there’s a pile of jigging spoons out there…’cuz they straight-up catch fish! You’ve probably already got your faves, so did any of ’em make this list of 6 tried-and-true options that have been putting walleyes topside for years?!

I’m confident this lineup of jigging spoons could pluck walleyes through the ice on any lake, anywhere. Heeeere we go — straight off my ice rods and into this write-up — in no particular order:

1. Lindy Rattl’N Flyer Spoon

Fave size: 1/8-oz

Darts and flies outside the hole to cover a ton of real estate, yet fishes heavy enough for the feel/control you skilled spooners are lookin’ for. Super-loud brass rattles make a different kind of “ting” on its alloy innards. Tie on a “techni-glo red” in dirty water and you won’t look back:

2. VMC Tingler Spoon

Fave size: 3/16-oz

Rattle-bearing jigging spoons have taken over the tackle trays of most walleye-nuts, but don’t forget about those silent options when times get tough. It’s all about the flash and flutter, and the VMC Tingler Spoon’s got ’em going on. Works especially well in clear zeeb-infested water, during a cold-front or on heavily-pressured fish.

I’m a sucker for the bigger 3/16-oz size, but don’t be afraid to drop down to 1/8-oz when the fish are super fussy. #SilentButDeadly

3. Clam Rattlin’ Blade Spoon

Fave size: 1/4-oz

Stainless steel BBs + Pyrex-glass housing = a unique clacking sound that calls ‘em in from waaaay out. Slices through the water and has just enough flutter to seal the deal on picky-eaters:

4. VMC Tumbler Spoon

Fave size: 1/8-oz

Great 1-2 punch in a single bait: can be fished “soft” when there’s slow-moving fish on the graph…or sped up and pounded. Unique “knuckle” bend gives it that tasty tumbling action on the drop, and the small metallic attractor blade adds flash and sound. There’s a reason it’s guide Brad Hawthorne’s all-time favorite spoon….

5. Northland Buck-Shot Spoon

Fave size: 1/8-oz

Really don’t think this OG needs an introduction…it’s literally been ringing the dinner bell since before the Internet was a thing! Noisy brass rattle gift wrapped in holographic or UV finishes, can’t go wrong. There’s something special about that “purple tiger” color — flat-out catches ‘em in clear or stained water. #Dibs

6. PK Spoon

Fave size: 3/8-oz

Every walleye fishermen should own a 3/8-oz PK Spoon — especially in the “red dot glow” color — it’s that good when fished aggressively. I work it just like you would a rattlebait through the ice: Start out high (say 2-3’ off bottom) and run a series of big rips before letting it flutter back down…then rock it in place for 5-ish seconds if it takes that long to get whacked….

For you visual learners….

You don’t (always) need livebait to catch hardwater walleyes…. Ever try using “fake” minnow heads on your jigging spoons? How about adding a feathered- or glow-resin treble hook??

That and waaaay more in this video breaking down my complete jigging-spoon setup. It’s 15-min long, so here’s a “Table of Contents” lol:

0:27 – Top 6 jigging spoons to catch walleyes anywhere 5:05 – 3 🔥 alternatives to live minnow heads 9:06 – Rest of the setup (line, leader, snap, swivel, etc) 11:25 – Longer ice rods are better…. 12:18 – My absolute favorite budget-friendly ice reel 13:10 – Braid gives you better spoon control

Or can check the full vid right here:

When you realize how much $$$ you’ve spent on fishing tackle:

By DR. DAVID COZZO

RTCAR PROJECT DIRECTOR

I once asked a fellow here in Cherokee why I did not see many hickory trees and he said, “You won’t see many above the road.”

His point was hickory trees make the best firewood and a good tree would be cut for winter’s fuel. It is also a very heavy wood, so hauling one down the hill is a lot more sensible than hauling one up hill. Hickory has tough, durable wood which had a wide range of uses, such as tool handles, chair parts, and basket handles. The inner bark of hickory is good for finishing basket rims, and weaving a chair seat from that same inner bark will last for generations. But this series is about wild foods, and with that in mind there is a great reason to encourage more hickory trees: the nuts.

Hickory nuts are a highly nutritious and tasty food. They contain nearly as much protein as chicken and are a great source of minerals, especially calcium, magnesium, phosphorous, and potassium. They are also a good source of folate (folic acid), one of the vitamins important to expectant mothers. Hickory nuts are high in fat, but it is really good fat. The bulk of the oil consists of monounsaturated fatty acids, the beneficial kind found in olive oil and avocadoes. Oils high in monounsaturated fatty acids tend to lower LDL cholesterol (the ‘bad’ cholesterol), prevent heart disease, and decrease insulin resistance, making hickory nuts a good food for diabetics. Even though they are high in fat, nuts are also considered great food for dieters. The dense nutrients and fiber tend to satisfy hunger longer, lessening the urge for a snack. But be careful you don’t overdo it or you will lose those good effects.

If you have ever cracked hickory nuts, you know how much work it can be. The shells are very tough and picking out the nut meats is time consuming. One study determined it would take around eight hours of work to get enough calories to meet one person’s daily needs. However, this is where native technology made the process more efficient. Hickory nuts were cracked and the largest part of the shell removed. The remaining nut meats and pieces of shell were placed in the corn mortar (kanona) and pounded into a paste. The resulting paste was rolled into a large ball that was placed in boiling water to make a soup broth (kanuchi). The shells that remained in the paste would separate from the paste and sink to the bottom of the pot. So how much more efficient was the mortaring process than cracking and picking out the nut meats? The same study mentioned above found that using the corn mortar provided from 12 to 35 times more energy (depending on the type of hickory nut) than just cracking and picking. Now that’s good technology! And the taste? I once had hickory nut milk made in a blender. It had a great flavor and it was like sipping the finest cream. I can only imagine how good that soup tasted.

It’s always open season when it comes to shooting magpies. Unlike game birds, such as pheasant and grouse, which may only be hunted during open season, magpies are grouped with crows and woodpigeons in the category of pest and may be controlled at any time of year.

You don’t need to apply for a licence to shoot magpies, as they are covered by general licence issued by government. However, if you don’t already know the details, you should familiarise yourself with the licence so you know where you stand. The licence stipulates certain conditions and is a permit to landlords, occupiers, and authorised persons only, so if you are not the owner or occupier, you will need their permission.

The licence allows for the control of magpies to prevent damage to specified items only, which include livestock, crops, timber and fisheries. So quite apart from safety considerations, you’d have some difficulty in justifying shooting magpies in a small town garden. You can find further information about licensing on the Natural England website at www.naturalengland.org.uk.

Getting Started

Once you’ve established there are magpies in a particular area, find a suitable place to lure them to near to a spot where you can settle down to wait. An ideal place to wait for magpies would be close to trees adjacent to a clearing or open field. Dawn and dusk are when you’re likely to see birds displaying bolder behaviour, as it is generally a quieter period in terms of human traffic.

One of the best ways to get a good shot at a magpie is to catch it while it is eating. Entice the magpies to within your range by leaving out a food supply such as a freshly killed rabbit or squirrel. Alternatively, you could make use of a decoy magpie bird. Magpies are highly territorial birds so will often come down to investigate an unknown magpie in their area. Artificial magpie decoy birds are a good option, as they are realistic and easy to transport.

You may need to spend several hours to get a shot at a magpie, so consider using a portable hide. If you plan to shoot early in the morning you might prefer to set up the hide the day before to avoid disturbance when you arrive for shooting. Use a good quality camouflage hide net and peg it down at the base so that it won’t rustle in the wind.

Other considerations

It sounds obvious, but make sure you stay on the right side of the law. You must comply with the requirements of the Firearms Act as well as the Animal Welfare Act. If you use live decoy birds, be sure to treat them in accordance with legal requirements. This is an area currently under review by European legislators, so keep abreast of any changes which might be introduced in the near future.

Magpie numbers have tripled over the last three decades and are considered by many to be the vermin of the bird world, but even though they are not the most popular bird, you never know who might take umbrage with seeing them being shot. As with all hunting, be respectful and make sure you kill quickly and cleanly. If you know the law and work within it, you will have no cause for concern when controlling the burgeoning magpie population.

Bull Shoals Reservoir is one-of-a-kind. It’s character doesn’t resemble many other man-made lakes in the country. It’s banks are, for the most part, void of docks or buildings. It seems as if it’s lost in time when the Ozark Indians used to use the once White River for their source of life.

Bull Shoals Reservoir is one-of-a-kind. It’s character doesn’t resemble many other man-made lakes in the country. It’s banks are, for the most part, void of docks or buildings. It seems as if it’s lost in time when the Ozark Indians used to use the once White River for their source of life.

What about the fishing?! As many lakes in the midwest, white bass are a sought after trophy, for their meat and for their fight. I remember years ago in Oklahoma, to name one state, white were considered a trash fish and not fit to eat. No limits on this abundant fish didn’t seem to deter the population on most lakes and rivers. There seemed to be an endless number schooling up and down the flats, devouring and schools of shad in their way. Times have changed, as they do, and the white bass, or called sand bass in some other parts of the country, have become coveted as crappie and walleye (well- almost). Most anglers come out of the woodwork on warm, sunny days in March and April to line the banks and fill the channels with their boats to do what? Chase whites.

When do the whites start their march? All depends on the weather. In January, we start to see white bass show up when fishing for winter crappie off mud flat banks or fishing for walleye off the flat channel in deeper water. On into February, more start to show from K-Dock up to Beaver Creek in the main channels and you can usually depend on finding them close to the bottom. How do you locate them? Find them through countless days of drifting and trolling in this 4 to 6 miles stretch… or… read my reports and I’ll tel you where I’ve either caught them or heard of other catching them. I don’t know about you but I can’t afford to spend countless anything but working here at the resort! Once found, they won’t move too far too fast- especially if they are close to say Beaver Creek where they will run up to spawn.

How to catch pre spawn whites- as I said, they will be close to the bottom of the lake. **Bull Shoals is designed to be the holding basin for the White River Chain of lakes- it can hold lots of water. About 15 years ago, they put 40 feet of water over the normal pool- that’s allot of water!! Then normal thin lake went sprawling all over the place and it was difficult to find anything in so much water.** You need a good depth finder, not necessarily to find the whites but to see what kind of depth you’re in. Finding the fish is good too. Lures and techniques- your preference from here. I like jigs. I use 1/18th and even 1/4th oz jigs, depending on the depth and wind conditions. I use marabou mostly when vertical jigging. White, blue, chartreuse, gray, yellow, purple…. I switch around until I find a color to their liking. Some people like to jerk spoons. I’ve never got the hang of that but I know it works. One thing to remember when working either a jig or spoon up and down- look for it to stop before it hits bottom. You won’t feel the proverbial tap like when retrieving a lure- they usually take the lure on the drop. Drifting minnows on the bottom is good. Either with the wind or current. Careful not to use too much weight so as to get hung on the bottom a lot. Trolling deep diving crank baits is also good- blue/silver hot-n-tots, shad raps and heavy rooster tails. If the lake level is low enough, use 1/8th oz lead heads and swimming minnows and work them slowly across the bottom. We use several colored minnows including motor oil, blue, purple, chartreuse and smoke. Powersite will start holding white bass early in the season. Either fishing from a boat or the banks, working crank baits or swimming minnows is current or not can be productive. You really never know what you’ll catch up there too- whites, crappie, black bass, rainbow or brown trout, drum, carp, catfish, walleye- even striper now. That’s why they call it the “Pot Hole”.

Night fishing for pre spawn whites is very popular and productive closer to the spawn. I’ve headed out in my boat from River Run on many a night, while others are heading in. I head down to the “Willows” and anchor in current along the mud bank in about 18 feet of water. I throw a purple swimming minnow (1/16th oz lead head in medium current and 1/8th in heavy current) towards the bank almost at a 90 degree angle and let the lure drop close to the bottom before retrieving it. When the lure makes the swing at the back of the boat, I usually get the strike. This is when we catch a lot of the “sows” or female whites- big whites!! Conditions do have to be just right for this to happen but in most years- we do get water generation at night and we do catch whites this way. Other ways to catch whites at night- off the banks- the same willow bank, the mouth of Swan Creek, up close to Powersite Dam and the mouth of Beaver Creek. Use slow-moving lures like jigs, grubs or swimming minnows and work them close to the bottom. Darker colored lures usually work best.

Spawning whites- when does it really happen? Water conditions in the creeks need to be: warm- 60 degrees or higher; running water preferred; water color- I believe anything but extremely muddy. In the spring, weather fronts and rains play havoc on fishing. “The whites and running- now their not- it’s too muddy- water is too high- too low- too clear- too cold- new moon- old moon.” If you’re like me, you spend half your time chasing “stories” about what happened yesterday and coming up empty. In early to mid April, our white bass are usually in peak spawn and most of the time, you’ll find white spawning on up into May. Whites will certainly stay in the creeks into June sometimes feeding on minnows.

Early mornings and late evenings in low light times, whites generally make a run up in our creeks and are easy pickings. Night time too. Whites will moving up in creeks and then hold in deep pools before continuing on their trek. People wading using minnows in holes below riffles usually do real well. Use 4 lb line with a small split shot and #8 hook. Toss the line in the current and let it settle in the pool. If the pool isn’t real deep, blue rebels are a hot lure to use. Jerk it erratically, triggering the strike. This technique works on post spawn whites too in the main lake and in creeks. Working swimming minnows through these pools also is good. Use different colors- depending on water color- till you find a color they will hit. Fly fishing is a blast for whites in the creeks now. Fly fishing is the best technique for fishing the fast riffles and pockets along these riffles. Use small jigs, streamers and even nymphs like stones and hellgrammites. Whites usually like flashy flies.

Whites bass hang around the same areas for weeks after spawning, usually out closer to the mouths of the creeks and in the main lake. After spawning, they are vivacious feeders and very aggressive. Jerk baits like the blue rebel and sluggos are a blast to use. We fish up in Swan Creek with small sluggos into the month of June and in clear water, you can see the white swarming the lure as you twitch it in. Main lake- rattle traps is one of the best lures to locate and catch whites.

Bottom line- white bass is a great sport fish to fish for and even to eat. I hope this helps you have a successful fishing trip this spring.

View full article

During the early 1800s, when American frontiersmen were first crossing the Mississippi and heading west, they encountered areas of both short-grass and tall-grass prairies so vast they appeared as seas. When the wind blew, which was most of the time, those breezes caused the grass to undulate in waves. Living upon those seemingly endless grasslands were immense herds of bison, also known as buffalo. The largest land mammal in North America, an estimated 30 million to 60 million bulls, cows, yearlings and calves once grazed the Great Plains.

Those first frontiersmen engaged in subsistence hunting, shooting an occasional buffalo for food. But it wasn’t long before some of the hunters realized that, given such an abundant natural resource, there was a dollar to be made from the animals. Actually, many dollars. So, by the late 1800s, literally thousands of professional buffalo hunters were prowling the prairies in search of the wandering herds for their meat, hides and tongues—buffalo tongue was a delicacy served in restaurants back East.

Professional buffalo hunters had several requirements of their rifles. The guns had to be rugged, reliable, accurate at long range, and of large enough caliber (.44, .45 or .50) to bring down a heavy-boned animal that might weigh as much as a ton. The following three single-shot, breechloading, black-powder rifles checked all of those boxes, and were the most popular with buffalo hunters.

Sharps Model 1874

Nicknamed “Old Reliable,” this particular Sharps rifle was a favorite of buffalo hunters due to its long-range accuracy. Sharps rifles were commonly used during the Civil War (1861-1865), with sporting versions manufactured for 40 years, from the late 1840s to the late 1880s. After the war, the Sharps factory produced Models 1869 and 1874 in large quantities for commercial buffalo hunters and competition shooters. These heavy, large-bore rifles, weighing nearly 10 pounds, were manufactured knowing that they would be firing some of the most powerful black-powder cartridges ever made.

In more modern times, Sharps rifles have become icons of the Old West, appearing in many books and several movies; three of the most familiar films being Quigley Down Under (1990) and True Grit (1969, 2010). Reproduction Sharps are still offered today by several firearms manufacturers.

Springfield Model 1873 Trapdoor

The first standard-issue, breechloading rifle adopted by the U.S. Army, this gun had two versions. One featured a full-length barrel and stock; the other, a shorter carbine barrel and stock, for use by cavalry soldiers.

The cartridge that the full-length rifle fired was labeled .45-70-405, meaning that it was .45 caliber, propelled by 70 grains of black powder, pushing a 405-grain bullet. The cavalry version of the cartridge was a little lighter to help ease recoil for a mounted soldier. The “trapdoor” designation comes from the fact that a hinged breechblock had to be rotated up and forward before loading or unloading the gun.

This rifle saw extensive use during the Indian Wars on the Great Plains, so there were plenty of the guns around with which to shoot buffalo. An interesting bit of history is that this is one of the main rifles that General George Armstrong Custer’s 7th Cavalry carried into the fight at the Battle of the Little Bighorn.

Remington Number 1 Rolling Block

The NRA Museum’s (www.nramuseum.org) description of this rifle reads:

“Although chambered for military cartridges, many Remingtons were also used by civilian buyers. The No. 1 Rolling Block was produced circa 1868-1888. After the Civil War, a rush of settlers moved west of the Mississippi. Meat and hides were sought. Buffalo provided both of these, and a gun that could kill buffalo with one shot was needed. In 1868, Remington Arms Company of Ilion, New York, filled this need with the Sporting Rifle Number 1.

“This rifle featured one of the strongest receivers ever made. Called a rolling block, it rotates at its breech a large, round block behind a cartridge. A large, round hammer, in turn, supports the block. Firing a .45-70 cartridge, the rifle can bring down most anything at long range. The Remington No. 1 was among the most prolifically produced firearms of its time.”

On the Prairie

In the hands of an experienced marksman, any of those three rifles were deadly. Buffalo hunters would first locate a herd from horseback, then, by approaching on foot downwind of the animals, attempt to stalk undetected within a couple hundred yards—even closer if the terrain allowed. The first animal killed would be the herd leader, usually an older cow buffalo. The idea was to not spook and stampede the herd; but rather to take your time shooting, cleanly killing one animal after another, one shot one kill. Using that practiced technique, a skilled shooter might kill 100 buffalo or more in a single day.

Some buffalo hunters became so proficient that they were well known on the plains: Cross-Eyed Joe, Apache Bill, Buffalo Curley, Limpy Jim Smith, Buckshot Roberts, Squirrel Eye Emery, Prairie Dog Dave, California Joe … the list goes on.

Likely the most famous hunter was William Frederick “Buffalo Bill” Cody. Shortly after the Civil War, he signed a contract to supply Kansas Pacific Railroad workers with buffalo meat. Cody was so adept as a hunter that during one 18-month period spanning 1867 and 1868, he is purported to have killed 4,282 of the large, wooly animals.

But another hunter, Buffalo Bill Comstock, challenged Cody’s right to exclusive use of the nickname Buffalo Bill. To decide the matter, the pair agreed to an eight-hour hunt. Cody won by shooting 68 buffalo compared to Comstock’s 48. It is believed Comstock used a .44-caliber Henry lever-action rifle, while Cody used a .50-caliber Springfield Model 1866.

Cody would one day go on to form his extremely successful traveling extravaganza, Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. For 30 years, he toured America, England and Europe with a troupe of genuine cowboys, authentic Indians, horses, cattle, and yes, a small herd of buffalo.

Splitting wood is a common task for homeowners who use wood for heat or various outdoor projects. Having the right tools for the job is essential, and one of the most critical tools is a splitting axe. A maul or splitting axe is ideal for larger logs and hardwoods, while a splitting maul is better for knotty or thick wood. A traditional axe offers versatility and precision for smaller logs or softer wood, and a double-bit axe is less commonly used for wood splitting. In this blog, we will explore the different types of axes available for splitting wood and help you determine which is best suited for your needs.

Splitting Axe

A splitting axe is a heavy, wedge-shaped axe for splitting wood. It typically has a long handle, usually between 28-36 inches, and a heavy head, weighing up to 10 pounds. The head is often wider and flatter than a traditional axe, with a blunt, rounded edge designed to deliver maximum force and easily split wood. The long handle provides leverage, allowing you to generate more power with each swing and split wood more efficiently.

A maul, or splitting axe, is ideal for splitting larger, hardwood logs that are difficult to handle with a regular axe. The weight and wedge-shaped head make it effective for splitting wood along the grain, allowing you to separate logs into smaller pieces with minimal effort. Due to its weight and size, it may not be suitable for smaller logs or tasks that require more precision.

Splitting Maul

A splitting maul is another type of axe for splitting wood. It looks similar to a splitting axe, with a heavy head and a long handle, but it typically has a more pronounced wedge shape with a sharper edge. The sharp edge allows the splitting maul to penetrate the wood more easily, making it suitable for splitting logs with knots or thicker boards.

A splitting maul is ideal for splitting large logs or logs with knots that may be challenging to cut with a regular axe. The sharp edge helps create a clean split, and the head provides the necessary force to split the wood effectively. Like the maul or splitting axe, a splitting maul may not be as suitable for smaller logs or tasks.

Traditional Axe

A traditional axe, also known as a felling axe or a chopping axe, is a versatile tool that can be used for several tasks, including splitting wood. It typically has a shorter handle, usually 24-28 inches, and a narrower, sharper head than a maul or splitting axe. The head is designed for cutting across the grain rather than splitting along the grain.

A traditional axe can split smaller logs or softer wood with more precision than a maul or splitting axe. Due to its smaller size and narrower head, it may require more effort and multiple swings to split larger logs or hardwoods.

Double-bit Axe

A double-bit axe has two cutting edges on the same head, with a blade on each side of the axe. This axe is less commonly used for splitting wood and is typically used in forestry or logging applications. The double-bit design allows for versatility in cutting from both sides, but it may not be as efficient or suitable for splitting wood as other types of axes.

Safety Considerations

Remember to prioritize safety when using an axe for wood splitting. Wear appropriate protective gear such as gloves, safety goggles, and sturdy footwear. Properly maintain your axe by keeping it sharp and in good condition. Always use proper technique and caution when swinging the axe to avoid injury.

Conclusion

Ultimately, the best type of axe for splitting wood will depend on your specific needs, the wood you are working with, and your personal preference. Consider the size and type of logs you will be splitting, as well as your physical ability and comfort level with different types of axes. With the right axe and proper technique, you can make wood splitting a breeze and enjoy the benefits of a well-stocked woodpile for your heating or outdoor projects.

Deer hunting seasons are underway in some parts of the nation, so it’s time once again to prepare yourself to venture into the fields and forests. Once you’ve managed to harvest and field dress your first deer, there’s the matter of storing it in the proper environment to get the best tasting meat.

Some people will quarter the deer without aging it, but this is a major mistake if you want quality venison. The deer stiffens during rigor mortis in the 24 hours after being killed. If it is processed during this time, the muscles shorten and contract causing the meat to become tough. You should let your deer hang for 2 to 4 days at minimum before processing to avoid this. For the best tasting deer meat Mississippi State University recommends 14 to 18 days of hanging time. A general rule of thumb is, the older the deer, the longer the hang time. Longer hanging times will allow the deer’s natural enzymes and acids to break down and tenderize the meat and give it a smoother, less “gamey” flavor.

An optimal temperature to hang deer meat at should be temperature above freezing but below 40 degrees F. Many people let the deer hang in their garage, but this far from the proper conditions because of contaminants, pests and temperature fluctuations that come with an uncontrolled environment such as this. If your meat is stored above 40 degrees it will start to rot, but if it is frozen at temperatures below 28 degrees it can become freezer burned. In these situations, having access to a commercial-sized refrigerator that will keep your deer at a constant temperature and free of outside contamination is optimal.

The U.S. Cooler Game Locker provides an elegant solution for proper deer aging. The Game Locker is a walk-in cooler equipped with up to 8 meat hooks on a sliding rail system. These refrigerators have been reinforced to bear up to 800 lbs hanging from the ceiling. Owning your own Game Locker will allow you (and any friends you let use it) the freedom to hang several deer in the perfect environment for as long as you see fit.

It may be hard to justify purchasing a large refrigerator exclusively for use during hunting season. In the offseason, the Game Locker can be used just like any other walk-in cooler to store soda, beer, meat, produce or anything else that requires cold storage. The Game Locker is made of modular insulated panels, so it could be disassembled to save space when not in use. It can be purchased with or without an insulated floor and comes in two sizes: 6’ x 6’ x 8’ and 6’ x 8’ x 8’. If you use the Game Locker with the best practices for deer hanging and processing, you can produce venison that is both tender and has amazing flavor. To learn more and get a price quote, visit the U.S. Cooler Game Locker page or download the Game Locker brochure. You can also download MSU’s guide to harvesting, dressing and cooling deer.

Sources:

1. http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/other/recipes/2006/01/deer-hang-time
2. http://www.helium.com/items/168830-how-to-process-a-deer
3. http://msucares.com/pubs/infosheets/is0327.pdf

Which hunting slingshot is best?

Hunting slingshots fit a unique niche among hunters. They are primarily used by hunters who want an easy-to-use and easy-to-pack tool. Many slingshots can be folded and placed in a hunting backpack or a carrying case. There is usually room for ammunition too. Hunting slingshots are quiet and ideal for hunting small game like rabbits, small birds, squirrels and turkeys.

Many of today’s hunting slingshots feature metal frames and extra-strong rubber bands. When using one for hunting, it is recommended that the hunter have some experience with basic target practice with a slingshot to improve their accuracy. The top recommended hunting slingshot is the Ucho Professional Slingshot.

What to know before you buy a hunting slingshot

Start simple if you are a beginner

There are many designs of hunting slingshots, and some boast a laser sight and lights. While these extra features may be helpful down the road, they can make learning how to use a slingshot more difficult. If you are new to slingshots, start with a straightforward design and learn the basics of using a slingshot first.

Slingshots should be easy to repair

Over time and with extended use, the rubber bands on hunting slingshots can wear down or even break. Replacing the rubber bands should be an easy process. Review how rubber bands are exchanged on the model of interest to you. Look for products that include an extra set of rubber bands.

The slingshot handle should feel good in your hand

Slingshot handles can be made from wood, metal or plastic. Many are ergonomically designed to fit comfortably in your hand. Make sure that you have a sense of power and balance when holding the slingshot.

What to look for in a quality hunting slingshot

Arm support

Many hunting slingshots feature a fold-out arm brace that provides extra support when aiming and firing. Make sure the brace fits snugly against your forearm so there is no give.

Ammunition pouch

Usually made from leather, ammunition pouches hold the rubber or metal balls and are located at the holding point, so the pouch can be held in place when shooting.

Flat or tubular bands

Most hunting slingshots feature tubular rubber bands that are very durable but still stretch enough to generate the power needed for hunting small game. There are some models that use flat elastic bands. These can generate more power, but they also need to be replaced more often.

Sights

Typically located at the bottom of the grip, some models of hunting slingshots have a laser or fiber optic sight to help with accuracy.

How much you can expect to spend on a hunting slingshot

The lowest-priced hunting slingshots run between $10-$15 with lower-quality elastic bands, while for $15-$25, you will find hunting slingshots with greater durability and more accessories. Hunting slingshots made from stainless steel and offering the highest-quality materials are priced between $25-$50.

Hunting slingshot FAQ

How do I know if my accuracy is ready for hunting?

A. When hunting small game, accuracy is important. Typically, you are looking for a headshot. To test your accuracy, try hitting a ping pong ball from the typical distance you would be shooting from in the field. Once you are able to consistently hit the ping pong ball, you should be ready for hunting.

What is the best size of ammunition to use?

A. Slingshot ammunition typically runs between 5/16th of an inch to as large as a half-inch. However, the recommended size to use for hunting small game is 7/16th of an inch. This size shot allows you to maintain high accuracy but also enough power to take down your target from pigeons, squirrels and rabbits to even turkeys.

Do I need to wear safety glasses when using a hunting slingshot?

A. Yes, protective eyewear is a must when using a slingshot. Many safety glasses for hunting are anti-glare and anti-fog to keep your line of sight clear while keeping you safe from ricochets, broken bands or debris.

What’s the best hunting slingshot to buy?

Top hunting slingshot

Ucho Professional Slingshot

What you need to know: This versatile slingshot is easy to shoot and can be used by adults and children under supervision.

What you’ll love: Triple-strength rubber bands and a wide-bow design provide extra power and comfort. The magnetic leather pouch keeps ammo refill close by. The slingshot folds up easily and also comes with a laser flashlight holder for nighttime hunting.

What you should consider: The rubber bands wear down and lose their color over time.

Where to buy: Sold by Amazon

Top hunting slingshot for the money

Nobondo Strong Folding Slingshot

What you need to know: An affordable slingshot that offers precision shooting with high-velocity power.

What you’ll love: This slingshot is made from metal with durable rubber bands. It comes with a wrist brace and ergonomic adjustable handgrip that gives your hand extra power and comfort. The slingshot is packaged with 100 ammo balls.

What you should consider: The wrist brace doesn’t lay evenly on the forearm and can lead to inaccurate shots.

Where to buy: Sold by Amazon

Worth checking out

Wisdoman Outdoor Professional Slingshot

What you need to know: This slingshot is high quality and combines power and accuracy with multiple accessories.

What you’ll love: Made from anti-rust stainless steel and with high-tension rubber bands, this slingshot offers a unique professional design. It includes a leather wrapper, 50 steel balls and a small flashlight combination.

What you should consider: There were some reports of the rubber bands breaking. It has a shorter range than other similar slingshots.

Where to buy: Sold by Amazon

Sign up here to receive the BestReviews weekly newsletter for useful advice on new products and noteworthy deals.

Steve Ganger writes for BestReviews. BestReviews has helped millions of consumers simplify their purchasing decisions, saving them time and money.

Whitetail deer might seem like quiet creatures, but in fact they communicate vocally quite a bit. However, different deer noises may all sound the same or very similar to the untrained ear. The truth is, deer’s different vocalizations have lots of different meanings—all of which you need to learn in order to become a better hunter. Here’s what you need to know.

How Learning Deer Sounds Helps Your Hunt

Understanding the behavioral intricacies of whitetail deer is no easy feat. These language complexities make hunting deer both fun and challenging. Fortunately, humans have been studying all of these vocalizations for years for both hunting and conservation purposes, which has led to a better understanding of what each noise means. We now can now decipher micro variations in dialect, giving us a deeper sense of what deer are trying to say.

Without question, learning these different vocalizations and what they mean will make you a better hunter. Learning the sounds deer make can make you that much better at deer calling. But it also helps you to understand why deer act the way they do in certain situations. Knowing how to identify the four common sounds deer make, what each deer sound means, and what prompted the deer to make it, will help make you a better hunter in the long run.

Deer Sound #1: Grunts and Growls

A grunting sound is easily the most common vocalization hunters will hear in the deer woods. The grunt is a standard form of communication, but there are a few different variations of grunts that all have slightly different sounds.

If you spend enough time in a blind or a stand watching adult deer and hear these grunts and observe the behavior that follows, eventually you start to make sense of the context of the situation, and you start to understand the nuances between common sounds and the different sounds that deer make—and begin to emulate them. You can emulate all of these sounds with a grunt call, which is particularly effective when a buck is riled up. Effective calling and timing of those sounds will bring a buck right to you.

The most common deer grunt is a low and quick “urp” sound, which is what’s called a contact grunt or social grunt. Both male deer and female deer use these grunts to announce their presence in an area and identify themselves to other deer, almost like saying, “Hello, I’m here.” They sound a little different between the sexes, but both serve as a way of establishing a social hierarchy.

The Doe Grunt

A doe grunt is one of the common sounds deer make. A doe grunt is much higher sound than that of a buck. Female deer have smaller bodies, and just like in humans, this results in a shorter airway. Does use grunts in a slightly different way than bucks do. Does don’t really grunt to show dominance, but more so to communicate with one another. Deer are highly social, and they try to gather together when they can, so a grunt is the deer’s way of telling others it’s around and ready to mingle, so to speak. The mothers also grunt to call the fawns if it’s feeding time or if they’re moving to a new location, almost like a mother raising her voice to her children.

I couldn’t count the number of times I’ve watched does feeding right out in front of me, only to start sparring with the younger deer and chasing them off. The whole time, the more mature doe was making this grunt noise, which became deeper, raspier, and more aggressive as she asserted more dominance.

The Buck Grunt

A buck grunt is a different sound that is a little deeper and guttural than that of a doe, which produce more of a higher, nasally sound. Bucks make a loud grunting sound to show their dominance. While all deer make soft, long grunts to call to one another, the deep, short grunt of the buck is the male claiming does and territory.

When most of us think of buck sounds, our mind gravitates to buck grunts. We think of that echoing, saliva-inducing sound that only comes from a buck during the rut. However, there’s again a wide range of variations, but all of them are unique to the peak of hunting season.

While bucks will use short grunts to stake out their territory and intimidate rivals, they sometimes use the same sound to establish dominance when chasing does, which many often call “trailing grunts.” The sound is virtually unmistakable and enough to get any hunter’s blood pumping, as it means only one thing: a buck is coming in hot on a doe’s trail, so get ready for action. The sound itself is somewhat of an excited “urp-urp-urp-rup” along with the ruckus of crunching leaves and cracking branches.

The Tending Grunt

Another type of deer grunt is a tending grunt. A tending grunt is a deer call made by bucks when they are following a doe during rut and want to mate. The tending grunt is a deep guttural call made of long, drawn-out notes, softly, without aggression or loudness—a guttural “urrrrrrrrrp” sound, which often includes a mix of short grunt sounds, too, all of which signify ownership to a doe, as well as other interested bucks. Big bucks use this grunt to assert their dominance, frustration, and let everyone in the area know what they are after. They also use it to ask the doe to stop so they can breed.

The Buck Growl

Slightly less common is the “buck bawl,” “growl,” “rage grunt,” “breeding bellow,” or “buck roar,” all of which are different names for the sound big bucks make when an estrous doe is near. Noticeably lower and a tad eerie, this guttural vocalization doesn’t even sound like it’s coming from a deer. The video above is a perfect example of just that. Rutting bucks make this sound when they’re frustrated—which is exactly what it sounds like—because they’re lonely or a doe hasn’t allowed them to breed yet.

A number of grunt calls have hit the market in recent years to create a version of this sound, but it’s a difficult one to pull off, and thus should be reserved for experienced callers. Without the perfect pitch and cadence, you’ll run the risk of scaring away bucks instead of attracting them. However, if you’re looking for a new challenge, or if you feel like you’re grasping for a new approach after failing with some of your default calls, it’s worth a try.

Deer Sound #2: Bleats

Doe bleats, much like grunts, have numerous variations, all dependent on a given situation. Like deer grunts, bleats happen in a variety of situations and each different sound has its own meaning.

A common doe bleat happens in social situations. The bleat is a higher-pitched vibrating sound, similar to that of a goat. They mostly do it when they are gathered together or with their fawns, and it signals contentment.

Bleat calls are interesting. Much like grunts, it seems bleats have many different meanings depending on the situation. First there are estrus doe bleats, which they make when they’re in heat but there aren’t any bucks around. The intensity of this sound comes down to how long the doe has gone without a suitor. Most of the can-style calls you can buy on the market are designed to resemble a more desperate mating call but does use bleats all year long for various purposes, one of which is to communicate with their fawns.

Additionally, fawn bleating can be a distress call. It’s this reason we hear this sound used for coyote hunting, as the agonizing sound triggers nearby predators who might be looking for an easy meal.

Deer Sound #3: Snort-Wheeze

A common sound deer make is the deer snort, or snort wheeze. The snort-wheeze is an intimidation call and one that’s just not a sound or deer call one hears very often. This one has a sound like the deer is trying to clear some stuffed-up sinuses. This is the call mature bucks like to use in the pre-rut and rut when they want to intimidate a rival away from their does. Hunters could potentially hear this one when there are two bucks in the same area during that prime time.

This deer snort call sounds exactly like it is described. It’s a short, loud sniff or snorting sound followed by a long wheeze. It’s a different sound than the common deer grunts and bleats hunters usually hear in the woods.

It’s also worth noting that bucks sometimes use the two parts of the snort wheeze on their own. For a large, dominant buck, they might only need to give a single snort to send a younger rival packing. Whatever sound they use, if you see and hear a buck making these sounds, do a scan of your surroundings. It is likely there is another buck in the area that you haven’t

Deer Sound #3: Blowing

One common sound that deer make, especially does, is blowing. Blowing is an alarm sound often accompanied by stomping. If you’re new to hunting, this is the most likely deer vocalization you will hear first. Veteran hunters know what I’m talking about. There are several stages to a doe sensing danger, and the annoying thing is, every one of them escalates as they warn other deer in the area that something just isn’t right.

Big, mature does especially are the ones you’ll hear blowing the most. These does are the wise old matriarchs of their group, and they’re always on the lookout for danger. Their instinct is to protect the baby deer in the group. Usually, if a doe spots you, it’ll start out with a stare-down, then the doe will start stomping her feet.

The foot stomping says to other deer, “Hey, something isn’t right here, be on alert!” Once the doe is certain there’s danger, she’ll loudly start blowing. It’s a very shrill sound, almost like a whistle. If it makes you jump when you hear it, that’s what the doe intended.

Once a doe starts making this sound, it’s gameover for your hunt. Does who have been spooked will often run off while continuing to make the sound as they vanish out of sight. This is the one call you don’t want to hear or emulate!

Deer Sound #4: Sniffs

Whitetail deer have an amazing sense of smell. If a deer begins to sense something is off, they may start sniffing the air, sometimes quite aggressively. Not only are they trying to get a better smell, but they’re also alerting the rest of the herd. The sniff doesn’t sound much different than a human sniff, only stronger and deeper. Imagine air being sucked in through a deer’s large nose.

READ MORE: Do Deer Eat Meat? Examining This Strange Phenomenon