We all know AR-type rifles have a military background. We know they’re also referred to as “Assault Rifles.” Now that the elephant is out of the room let’s move on to look at why the Daniel Defense Ambush Series should have a spot in your lineup this fall.

But first, why in God’s name would someone choose an AR for hunting?

AR rifles bring a lot to the table for hunters. For starters, the overall construction of the AR is metal (where it counts) so there’s nothing to swell or crack, and there won’t be a shift in harmonics between hot or cold weather. This design also makes the rifle relatively impervious to water—perfect for a nasty forecast. The stock can be quickly adjusted, accommodating the big and tall or smaller framed shooter such as a lady or youth hunter. With a flat-top design there’s loads of real estate for optics and eye relief so the rifle can literally grow with a developing shooter. Lastly, they’re very quick-handling allowing for fast follow-up shots. So how does the Daniel Defense Ambush rate as a purpose-built hunting rifle?

The Ambush model I received is the .308 variant. The initial stand-out was the bulk of the rifle (aka upper & lower), was hydro-dipped in Kryptek camo, one of my favorite and most versatile patterns. As soon as I picked up the rifle, I realized I wouldn’t need to worry about variations in terrain because I wouldn’t carry this gun far enough for there to be any real changes in environment. At 11 lbs. with optic you’ll realize you don’t want to take the Ambush for a long walk. Weight isn’t always a bad thing for hunting though and, when I’m on a still hunt, I actually prefer a heavier rifle. A hefty but good-shooting rig is great in a deer stand or in a coyote hide, and I knew the Ambush would shine on a predator hunt if it was accurate. Dry-firing showed off the trigger, sourced from the best, Geissele. The weight of the trigger wasn’t super light but the break was very clean and I was confident it would aid in the rifle’s accuracy.

To test the rifle I first mounted my Spartan Precision Javelin bipod. In the past I’ve used this bipod with great accuracy results, and I relied on it recently in Africa for it’s added stability and fast removal in the field. Next, I added my suppressor, mimicking my ideal coyote setup. So how did the Ambush perform on the range?

I was a bit surprised by how accurate the Ambush is with factory ammo. With the 155 gr. Hornady ELD Match ammo my first two 100 yd groups measured .792” and .872”. This is good accuracy for ANY rifle, but in a semi-auto capable of rapid-repeat shots this is downright impressive. The Hornady ELD-X Precision Hunter averaged nearly a one inch grouping. Another point worth mentioning is the rifle’s extremely mild recoil. The rifle’s weight and gas operation tame what would be a snappy cartridge into something I’d let my 8 year old shoot. On the range this is one of those rifles you just won’t want to stop shooting, and with the .308’s availability of cheap surplus ammo you can have a high volume range session without breaking the bank.

In summary, this AR is a worthy hunting rifle. As a deer rifle the Ambush is a great option for hunting from a stand or from a ground blind. As a predator rifle, a good shooter should have no problem putting multiple coyotes on the ground out to 500 yds. At moderate to intermediate distances paired coyotes often run for a short clip and then stop to look back in the direction of the shot when a hunter sends a round down range. With the Ambush, you should have the first dog on the ground and another pill on the way for the second guy when he stops to look back at his fate.

It could be argued that Ohio’s so-called “Hole-In-The-Horn Buck” is the most famous whitetail in the world. In fact, this legendary deer, with his incredible rack and story to match, might well be the most famous big game animal ever to come from the North American continent!

My own involvement in this story began sometime around 1977 when I was in the business of outfitting guided hunts, primarily for trophy whitetails. As a group of hunters and I sat around a campfire one evening, one of the clients pulled out photos of two of the largest bucks I’d ever seen. Supposedly, a “friend” of his had killed both animals, but my client couldn’t offer any other details. Although those bucks remained firmly implanted in my mind, further details continued to be unavailable for the next few years.

Then, in the early 1980s, I was fortunate to meet Fred Goodwin of Sherman Mills, Maine, one of America’s foremost whitetail collectors. Fred had gathered more than 1,300 sets of antlers over a span of nearly 70 years, and along with these, he’d acquired thousands of antler photos. As dug through cigar and shoe boxes full of photos, one in particular caught my eye — a photo just like one of those I’d seen four years earlier around that camp­fire!

The inscription on the back of the photo, which was in Fred’s handwriting, read, “giant non-typical found dead along railroad tracks, greatest spread 36 inches, 60 points, Kent, Ohio.” I soon learned that Fred had acquired the photo several years earlier from one of his many pen pals. Fred had never seen the buck, but he claimed it was the largest non-typical whitetail he knew of.

Eventually, I learned that the photo had come from a private hunting club in Kent, Ohio, and that the buck still hung in the bar there. In the summer of 1982, I talked with a couple of club members to learn more of this deer. Because of time and distance from my Montana home, however, it was actually August 1983 before I could travel to Kent to see the giant for myself.

By then, he’d hung in the smoke-filled bar for right at 40 years, and both the mount and antlers were nearly black from stains and dust. But, I immediately knew the antlers were of gigantic proportions and that they were even larger than they’d appeared in the photo. My initial rough score was off the “Richter Scale,” at 349 2/8 Boone and Crockett points well above that of the recently discovered 333 7/8-point world record from Missouri!

At the time of my visit, widespread interest in collecting whitetail racks was just beginning. I’d already acquired a substantial collection of outstanding bucks (many of which are featured in this book) and had begun displaying them at sportsmen’s shows. The Kent Canadian Club was interested in making its giant buck more visible to the general public, and I eventually acquired the mounted head.

North American WHITETAIL maga­zine, which I had been involved with since I helped in its founding in 1982, also played an instrumental role in this saga. We shared a common goal of uncovering the origin and history of the buck and passing along that information to the hunting public. As I dug into the deer’s back­ground, learned that he’d been found dead more than 40 years earlier and had hung in virtual seclusion ever since.

The Kent Canadian Club was founded in the early 1920s by a group of local hunters and fishermen who shared a special sporting interest in Ontario, Canada, and fellowship at their local clubhouse/bar in Kent. In the early days of the club, land was purchased at a site along the French River, where it joins Elephant Lake in Ontario. Later, a main lodge and cabins, bath houses, etc., were added, and it became the focal point of recreation for the membership.

Because most of the membership lived near Kent, a clubhouse/bar was also established there. The club’s 300 social members can use the local facility, but only the 20 “backroom” members are allowed to use the Ontario site.

One of the early members, Charlie Flowers, was an engineer for Erie Railroad Company of Ohio and appar­ently was directly responsible for the club’s ownership of the rack. It’s unclear whether Charlie was one of the individu­als who found the deer or if he merely came into possession of the antlers from another person. Regardless, he ended up with the rack.

At the time I acquired the Hole-In-The-Horn, the circumstances surround­ing the buck’s death and recovery were largely speculative. According to descen­dants of those involved and other infor­mation available then, the buck had been found dead along the railroad right-of-way near Windham, Ohio, in 1940 or shortly there­after. The carcass was badly decom­posed, so only the head was salvaged. It was believed that one of the engineers spotted the dead buck from the train itself and at some point (then, or at a later date) recovered the antlers.

According to what I could learn at the time of my investigation, the buck had been found in or near the Ravenna Arsenal in Portage County. This arsenal is still used for storage of military munitions, and for security reasons, it’s surrounded by a high fence. What nobody could tell me was whether or not the fence had played some role in the deer’s death. Had the barrier caused him to become trapped, resulting in death by collision with the train? Or, had he perhaps become entangled in the fence itself and died from injuries, stress or starva­tion? And for that matter, on which side of the fence was he found? Apparently, nobody knew.

I was told that Charlie had sold the rack to the Kent Canadian Club for $25. The club then commissioned Ben Morgan, a taxidermist in nearby Akron, to acquire a new cape and mount the head. Once completed, it hung in the club’s bar and essential­ly remained anonymous until I “dis­covered” it. But, this was not just any deer hanging in a bar he would have been the undisput­ed world record for 40 years!

Once the head arrived at my home, there was time for closer scrutiny and opportunity for more careful measuring. There was no doubt that the head would become either No. 1 or No. 2 in the B&C record book. The staff at North American WHITETAIL and I knew this buck was a world record contender, so we searched for a name that would give him his own identity. Because there was no hunter’s name to attach to this deer, as there is with most other trophy heads, we had to find something else to call him.

At that time, perhaps the most myste­rious aspect of this rack was the fact that one of the large drop tines on the right main beam had a small hole through it. There was a great deal of speculation as to how and when the hole was cre­ated, so we dubbed this awesome ani­mal the “Hole-In­The-Horn Buck.” That moniker has since become universally accepted.

From the first time I unofficially scored the head, I knew it was a mea­surer’s night­mare, as it

had configurations of antler never before encountered on any whitetail rack. There was obviously more than one interpreta­tion of how it should be scored, but most of the net scores from my measurements and those of many experienced measur­ers fell somewhere in the 340s—usually between 342 and 349 points.

Based on these unofficial scores, we felt the probability was high that this buck’s final score would exceed the 333 7/8-point score of the world record “St. Louis Buck,” which had been found dead less than two years earlier. But, we also knew the margin was close enough that the official scoring for entry into the records should not be done by just any official measurer. We wanted it done by someone who was very experienced and well respected within B&C’s ranks. No measurer fit this descrip­tion better than Phil Wright, chairman of the Scoring Committee and one of the most senior mem­bers of the club.

On August 27, 1983, the head was taken to Phil for the official scoring. After long and careful exam­ination, he arrived at an entry score of 342 3/8, well above the world record. Phil also stated at the time that two or three other abnormal points he hadn’t included in the total possibly could be added in during a final scoring by B&C judges’ panel. If these points were includ­ed, the final score would be close to 349 points, very near my initial net score.

Based upon Phil’s official entry score, the December 1983 issue North American WHITETAIL announced the shocking news of this historic buck and published information on both his “discovery” and the recent scoring. The magazine called the buck a “new world record,” because according to Phil’s official entry score, he was indeed just that.

Just a year prior to the initial scoring of the Hole-In-The-Horn, the enormous buck found dead near St. Louis had been officially scored by B&C measurer Dean Murphy, who also worked for the Missouri Department of Conservation and was an official member of the Awards Program judges’ panel. Based upon Dean’s entry score of 325 3/8 points, the Missouri buck had been highly publicized by newspapers and sporting maga­zines (including North American WHITETAIL) as a “new world record.”

When the St. Louis Buck had first been announced to the world, he wasn’t yet an “official” world record, because he hadn’t been verified as such by a panel of B&C measurers. He was to be remeasured in the spring of 1983, at which time a final deci­sion on his score would be rendered. However, to my knowledge, there was no negative reaction to claiming this deer to be/the next No.1 non-typical.

The announcement of the Hole-In­The-Horn Buck in North American WHITETAIL followed that precedent. According to an official score sheet filled out by Phil Wright, the Ohio buck was just as much a “new world record” as the Missouri buck had been the previous year, when all anyone had to go on was Dean’s entry score.

Only a couple of months prior to my acquiring the Hole-In-The-Horn Buck, in the summer of 1983, B&C’s 18th Awards Program was held. There, the official score of the Missouri buck was raised from 325 3/8 points to 333 7/8. At the time, this hardly seemed an issue, because either way, the score was far in excess of Jeff Benson’s 286-point world record from Texas. But now, there was a new contender for that crown.

The next three-year scor­ing period culmi­nated with the 19th Awards Program on June 28, 1986. Top recent entries in all big game categories were to be on hand for panel scoring and display. It was pointed out by B&C officials that should the Hole-In-The-Horn not appear, he’d be listed in the next record book with an asterisk, indicating that the score shown was still subject to verification by a judges’ panel. What’s more, we were told that the deer could be dropped from the record book at some point in the future if not panel-measured. Eager to have the score confirmed, I placed the Hole-In-The-­Horn in the cus­tody of Phil Wright for trans­portation to the Awards Program.

When the buck was remea­sured by the panel, the original 5×5 typical frame was rejected and a 4×4 typical configuration chosen. The final score submitted by the panel was 328 2/8 points, and it wasn’t subject to appeal. To everybody’s sur­prise, the Hole-In-The-Horn had become the official No. 2 non-typical.

From the first announcement of the original entry score of this buck, there was in certain quarters criticism of claims that he was a new world record. This seemed strange to me at the time, and still does, because the first wave of pub­licity on the Hole-In-The-Horn was little different from that regarding the Missouri buck. When these deer were revealed to the public, neither was an “official” world record; however, each had been entered at a score that, if upheld, would make him one.

Whatever the motivations for down­playing the Ohio buck, the resulting confusion about which buck was actually “bigger” detracted from the fact that these two racks tower above all others as the largest of all time. Both the Hole-In-The­-Horn and the St. Louis Buck are of a size that could hardly even have been imagined before they surfaced. Since the B&C record book had been founded, the Benson Buck from Texas had been the undisputed No. 1 non-typical. Then, out of the clear blue, within a couple of years of each other, two bucks that exceeded even the most optimistic dreams of the white­tail fraternity had come onto the scene. A new benchmark had been established.

Regardless of his final score, the Hole-In-The-Horn Buck is undeniably one of the two most awesome non-typi­cals of all time. Even though he looks huge in photos, they still don’t reflect his true size. For example, photography can’t indicate that even after 40 years of dry­ing, the rack still weighs 11 1/2 pounds!

It’s also worth noting that while phe­nomenal mass is what makes the Hole­-In-The-Horn so impressive in the eyes of many experts, it actually contributes little to his final score. I think most whitetail aficionados who’ve seen both heads would concede that the Hole-In-The-­Horn has more antler volume than any other buck in history, including the St. Louis Buck. On the other hand, the St. Louis non-typical has a lot of long points, and he apparently grew several more that broke off before he was found. So, the debate over which of these bucks is big­ger undoubtedly will continue.

However, as of very recently, we’re no longer in the dark as to what caused the unique antler feature that gave the Hole-In­-The-Horn Buck his name. As noted, at the time I conducted my interviews and other research on the story of this buck (1983), about all that was known for

certain was that a railroad man named Charlie Flowers had sold the antlers to the Kent Canadian Club and that taxi­dermist Ben Morgan had mounted the deer. After that story appeared in the

December 1983 issue of North American WHITETAIL, we naturally hoped some­body out there might come forth with new information, but more than a decade passed without that happening.

Then, in 1995, WHITETAIL editor Gordon Whittington received a cryptic note with a Florida postmark. “For infor­mation on the Hole in Horn buck, con­tact me,” it read. “I was present.”

Well aware that all eyewitnesses to the recovery of this deer had supposedly been dead for many years, Gordon was understandably skeptical. But, he dialed the phone number on the card anyway, and in so doing, he took the first step toward solving the greatest mystery in whitetail history.

As it turned out, the person who’d sent the card—a 76-year-old gentleman named George Winters—had indeed seen the Hole-In-The-Horn Buck in the flesh. -What’s more, he’d apparently been the first human to touch that enormous right antler with the strange hole through it. And in so doing, he told Gordon that he’d seen with his own eyes what had caused the hole!

George recounted that back in the early 1940s, when he was in his early 20s, he worked on a maintenance crew inside the arsenal. One bitterly cold morning, he and another guy were riding along a road near the perimeter fence when they saw several railroad workers on the outside of the fence. The men had appar­ently come down from the railroad track, which was roughly 75 yards from the fence.

Eager to see what was going on, George and his companion parked and walked down to the fence. There, they found the railroad workers pulling on the body of a large animal, which was stuck under the barrier. Actually, the carcass was entirely outside of the fence but part of the rack was wedged beneath the wires.

“We didn’t know what it was,” George remembered. “One of the men said, ‘It’s an elk!’ Then, another one said, `No, it’s a moose!’ I’d seen deer before, but really wasn’t sure if this was one or not. The animal had been dead for a week or so, from the looks of it, and he was huge. He looked like he weighed 300 or 400 pounds. He’d obviously been hit by a train.”

One of the railroad men—George never caught his name —announced that he wanted the antlers, and the crew start­ed pulling the giant out from under the fence. But, the animal wouldn’t come free. George noticed that when they pulled on the legs, the fence swayed. The rack itself was stuck.

George got a shovel and began work­ing to free the right antler, which was solidly wedged under the wires. “It had been so cold that the ground was frozen down six or eight inches,” George recalled. “That antler was actually frozen into the ground. The fence was made of chain link, and it had stiff wires sticking down along the bottom of it. When I finally got the rack free, I noticed one of those pieces of wire was sticking down through the antler!

“I guess for years everyone has been wondering what made that hole,” George noted, “but it definitely was caused by that wire.”

This all makes sense to me. There are several scratches around the hole, and its diameter is roughly the same as that of the wire used on chain-link fences. Because this drop tine is rather “porous” out near its tip, I have no trouble believ­ing that a buck thrashing around in pain would be able to poke a stiff wire all the way through it.

So, there you have it—an unexpected eyewitness account of the recovery of what might well be the most legendary whitetail of all. Now, it seems, the book on this giant can be closed once and for all.

CLICK HERE TO SEE ANOTHER HUNTER’S CLAIMS AS TO WHY THERE IS A HOLE

Crossbow hunting has never been more popular. That’s because of the number of states that have legalized crossbow use during archery season, and also because of the abundance of high-quality crossbows on the market. There are x-bows to fit all budgets, and they’re diverse in design and performance.

Unlike compound bows, which are built around a standard of specifications set by the International Bowhunters Organization (IBO), there is no manufacturer standard for crossbows. Different models, even from the same brand, may use different types of arrows and nocks, different limbs and cam systems (or no cams at all), different optics, and assorted cocking systems and safety mechanisms. That can make it a bit challenging to choose the best broadhead for your crossbow.

Modern crossbows are capable of incredible performance. Some of the newest ones shoot up to 500 feet per second with 400-grain bolts, which is about double the speed of a typical compound bow hunting setup, producing near twice the amount of energy. Many of them will shoot 1-inch groups at 50 yards, and a few even have scope reticles graduated to 100.

If you’re a new crossbow owner, what broadhead should you use to take advantage of all that speed and performance? Some insist that mechanical models are universally the best choice for x-bows. Others prefer fixed-blades regardless. Independent testing has shown that both styles can work well from crossbows; the secret is to decide on your particular hunting requirements, and then settle on the appropriate broadhead that your x-bow shoots best.

THE CASE FOR MECHANICAL CROSSBOW BROADHEADS

• Pros: The real benefit of a mechanical broadhead is the massive cutting diameter paired with an aerodynamic in-flight profile. The big cutting diameter is especially effective on whitetails, mule deer, pronghorns, and similar-sized game. They’re also ideal for turkey hunting. The blade-opening process does use some kinetic energy, which is a consideration for compound shooters using lightweight setups, but it’s barely a blip on the radar at crossbow speeds. Even “slow” x-bows have more than enough energy to reliably open the largest mechanical blades.
• Cons: Keeping blades closed at crossbow speeds can be a bigger challenge than making them open. And mechanical broadheads are just that … mechanical, meaning they have moving parts that are structurally weaker than fixed parts. At crossbow speeds, blades are more subject to damage, even when target shooting. Though dulled or damaged blades can usually be replaced, it’s a more tedious process than replacing fixed blades.

THE CASE FOR FIXED-BLADE CROSSBOW BROADHEADS

• Pros: Quality fixed-blade broadheads are incredibly rugged and can withstand heavy abuse. With a straight-shooting crossbow, hunters can use fixed-blade broadheads to get maximum penetration and bone-breaking capability on even the largest game. There is no worry about blades opening at the wrong time. Fixed-blades are more convenient and economical if you shoot multiple animals per season, or if you do a lot of practicing with your broadheads. So long as the ferrules aren’t damaged, replacing dulled blades with new ones takes only a few seconds.
• Cons: Fixed-blade broadheads in general (there are exceptions) have smaller cutting diameters than mechanical broadheads. Especially large fixed-blade broadheads are less aerodynamic in flight than compact (closed) mechanicals, meaning they’re more prone to wind drift and drag, particularly at extreme crossbow speeds. Velocities in excess of 400 fps and exceptionally short, stiff crossbow arrows (or bolts, depending on what you call them) can bring out the worst in fixed-blade flight. More compact fixed-blade broadheads alleviate some of these problems, but that does come at the cost of an even smaller cutting diameter.

TRY BOTH

Here’s the peculiar thing about crossbows: All those differences in speed, arrow design, trigger pull, and optics affect accuracy in their own little ways. Just as most centerfire rifles will shoot some bullet weights and styles better than others, your personal crossbow will likely shoot some broadheads better than others. The trick is to find a broadhead that hits with your field points, or close to them, out to the distances where you plan to shoot.

Most broadheads will shoot close at 20 yards. You’ll see the biggest differences in accuracy at 40 to 50 yards and beyond. Good broadheads aren’t cheap, but it’s worth investing in a few packages of various styles to find the model your crossbow shoots best, and that fits your personal hunting preferences. Maybe go in with a couple buddies so that everyone can try a few models without being too out of pocket, or consider picking a Wasp Archery Pick 3-Pack, which allows you to try three different Wasp broadhead models in one customized package. Once you dial in the broadhead you and your crossbow like, stock up! You’ll be glad that you went to the extra trouble when the buck or bull of a lifetime steps into range.

RECOMMENDED CROSSBOW MECHANICAL BROADHEADS

Wasp mechanical broadheads are among the toughest on the market. The models we recommend for crossbow shooters use tried-and-true, replaceable o-rings for blade retention. Our favorite crossbow mechanicals, like the Dueler and Jak-X, are designed to be used with two o-rings, and six extra o-rings are included with every package sold. The 2-blade Dueler allows shooters to rotate a Select-A-Cut washer for a 1.5-inch cutting diameter, or a massive 2.3-inch cutting diameter. The Jak-X is a 3-blade model with a substantial 1 3/4-inch cutting diameter.

RECOMMENDED CROSSBOW FIXED-BLADE BROADHEADS

The Crossbow Boss has a 1 3/8-inch cutting diameter and is designed for perfect flight, thanks to its short, aerodynamic ferrule and vented blades. It’s equipped with Wasp’s legendary Trocar tip, the toughest one on the market. If you’re looking to up your front of center and need maximum penetration and durability on heavy or dangerous game, consider the 150-grain Sledgehammer, which has a solid-steel ferrule and Trocar tip with a 1-inch cutting diameter. Wasp’s award-winning Havalon HV models, available in both 100- and 125-grain versions, have an ultra-compact ferrule and 1 3/16 cutting diameter, and are a favorite of many crossbow shooters.

— Story by Wasp Archery Staff; Lead image by John Hafner

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With a .177 air rifle, there is a lot you can do including target shooting and hunting. Talking of hunting, what can you hunt with a .177 air rifle?

As a whole, a .177 air rifle can take on the small-sized game, pests, and birds. So, ethically, you can kill rats, pigeons, squirrels, rabbits, and co. In some special cases, a powerful .177 would even take down slightly larger animals like groundhogs.

While a .177 air rifle is popularly used for backyard plinking and target practice, they are certainly a good choice for hunting down small game. However, as a shooter, you need to be within the correct range and using more imposing pellets, aim accurately at the target.

Doing otherwise means you could mishit and end up only injuring the animal. Let’s look into this topic further.

What Can You Hunt with a .177 Air Rifle?

There are plenty of animals a .177 air rifle can down. However, they will only be small-sized although you can still kill larger animals with higher-end, powerful .177 air rifles.

The animals you can hunt with a .177 air rifle include most rodents like mice and squirrels, rabbits, both small and large birds, mongoose, chicken, among many other small game and pests.

Generally, .177 air rifles do not produce a lot of muzzle energy but you get enough to take on the mentioned animals. You can definitely kill game using very little power as long as you make the most out of the shot by preparing well.

Another thing you gain by shooting a .177 is top velocity. There are not many air rifles that shoot over 1000 fps more than this caliber. With top velocity like this, accuracy, which is a key quality of the best hunting air rifle is never going to be a problem.

Most .177 airguns have a minimum of 12 foot-pounds of muzzle energy and the maximum range you will engage a target with such an air rifle and get results is about 35 yards. Yet, there are certain .177 air rifles that can produce as much as 30 foot-pounds past 50 yards.

If you are looking for an efficient and effective air rifle in the .177 category, you can consider the Benjamin Trail NP XL air rifle, (View on Amazon) a gas piston break barrel that offers plenty of power in excess of 25 foot-pounds of muzzle energy and great accuracy.

Alternatively, you can work with the Gamo Swarm Maxxim air rifle (View on Amazon) that offers a 10x magazine for non-stop shooting. Swarm Maxxim offers consistent power and great durability.

What is the Effective Range of a .177 Air Rifle?

When you are hunting or doing another activity such as target practice, it’s important to understand the air rifle’s effective range. This helps you to estimate how far your air rifle can go to get you reasonable results.

One pertinent question you can ask yourself about a .177 is what is the effective range of the pellet gun? Generally, with a .177 air rifle, you can shoot accurately at your target out at 60-80 yards.

The reason why the effective range of most .177 air rifles is such high is because of the faster velocities most of them come with. Take an example of 1000 fps. If you fire a pellet at this velocity, its trajectory goes flatter and this means more accuracy at longer distances.

Many .177 caliber air rifles offer velocities in the excess of 1000 fps. Look at this Gamo Whisper Fusion Mach 1 air rifle (View on Amazon) that can send pellets downrange at 1420 fps and offers many other indispensable features of a proper air hunting air rifle.

Whether you are hunting for rodents or birds, the Whisper Fusion has the perfect effective range to get the job done always.

Is a .22 Air Rifle More Powerful than a .177?

There is no doubt that two of the most renowned calibers of air rifles feature .22 and .177. Oftentimes, many people think that they are the same in functionality and power but that’s not true.

You would probably ask: is a .22 air rifle more powerful than a .177? There is no straightforward answer to this but basically, a .22 air rifle would be more powerful than a .177 air rifle. On average, a .22 caliber air rifle is capable of producing over 18 foot-pounds of muzzle energy while a .177 about 15 foot-pounds.

If you consider the kind of pellets each shoot. The .177 pellets are lighter than the .22 pellets. What this means is that the heavier .22 pellets are hard-hitting more than the lighter .177 pellets.

It’s true that a .22 air rifle will shoot pellets at a slower speed. But that’s probably due to the heavy nature of their pellets which is exactly the reason why the guns generate the extra energy compared to their .177 counterparts.

So, if you were looking for a perfect choice in an ideal hunting scene, you will definitely consider a .22 any time.

That, however, doesn’t mean that .177 air rifles are not powerful enough. In fact, there are certain .177 air rifle models on the market that offer serious power than .22 air rifles.

Can You Kill a Deer with a .177 Air Rifle?

Sometimes if you are just getting some foothold in the airgunning world, you think your air rifle can tackle almost every target on the way. Many newbie hunters keep asking the question; can you kill a deer with a .177 air rifle?

By and large, on paper, you cannot kill a deer with a standard .177 air rifle. This is because the pellets used are extremely lightweight and literally below 10 grains in weight. This means they generate less power on impact.

A deer is not the ordinary small targets like birds and rodents you’d easily knock down with that amount of energy. Deer is large and it takes a lot of power. So, you’d probably want to use a higher caliber like a .30 or above.

Nevertheless, there is a slim chance of hitting and knocking it down with a .177 air rifle. You need to be extremely close to the animal and make sure you hit it in the head or lung area.

Even with that, the size of the pellet used in form a .177 will not impound the deer on the spot. It may run off with the injury; which is unethical and irresponsible on your side as a shooter.

If using less powerful air rifles on large animals is going to be a personal trend in hunting, sooner than later the authorities will be on your shoulders. So, as much as you want to try out new things, it’s just cruel to engage a deer with a .177.

Can a 177 Air Rifle Kill a Fox?

A fox is a fairly large animal. And if you have only a .177 air rifle in your possession, you’d likely ask whether a 177 air rifle would kill a fox or not.

In general, there are very few .177 air rifles that can humanely kill a fox under normal circumstances. Not unless you close into about 10-15 meters and aim the pellet right through the fox’s head.

Of course, it has to be a more powerful .177 air rifle with a minimum of over 30 foot-pounds of muzzle energy. If you are not sure about your air rifle, you simply get a higher caliber and work with it rather than making the animal suffer due to a mishit.

One thing you have to remember about foxes is their tough skin that takes an awful lot of energy for a pellet to penetrate.

What .177 Pellets Are Best for Hunting?

When you go out hunting for squirrels and rabbits or other small game, you definitely need proper hunting pellets. For the record, not all pellets you find on the market are meant for hunting.

The best .177 pellets for hunting weigh much higher. They are supposed to hit hard and leave some massive impact on the target.

Ordinarily, a 177 pellet is lightweight, weighing in at 7.5 to 10.5 grains on average. With this weight, it’s hard to knock down most animals and birds.

But, it’s possible to still get .177 pellets weighing in the region of 14.5 grains. These are practically heavier pellets and provide some serious knockdown power, which is what you need for any hunting activity.

The shape of the pellet is another big factor in its effectiveness. The best shapes for hunting include hollowpoint, wadcutters, and domed pellets.

You can consider the Crosman Premier Super Point .177 Cal pellets (View on Amazon) that come in a 500 ct tin.

Final Thoughts: What Can You Hunt with a .177 Air Rifle?

You can hunt a lot of small-sized animals and birds in the wild and in your backyard. These could include rodents like rats and squirrels and birds like pigeons and swallows.

Different .177 air rifles come with different power capabilities. This offers shooters a chance to even extend their list from just small game and pests only to some fairly larger targets as well.

Like with any hobby, shopping for gear can be just as fun and exciting as the activity itself.

This is why lots of people end up with multiple tools, especially if their hobby benefits from upgrading and replacing their old stuff.

This is the case for anglers and fishing enthusiasts, so many also wonder what to do with old fishing rods.

If you’re one of these folks who want to declutter and get rid of your old fishing gear without tossing them to the bin, you’re in luck.

We have just rounded up 5 ways to recycle these stuff, so make sure to read on.

What to Do with Old Fishing Rods

1. Turn them into decor.

If you have old fishing gear on hand, it would be highly likely that you’ll thoroughly enjoy the activity and you wouldn’t mind if others knew about your hobby.

If you’re thinking of introducing some elements of this hobby into your interiors, then you easily use your old fishing rods as decor.

Some mount their vintage rods as is to add some rustic vibe to their space.

Others use them as an accent to wall hangings to add more personality and humor to their decor.

If you’re quite creative, you can also come up with your own way of displaying them around your home.

2. Re-use them for gardening.

If your old rods are still in great shape, you can easily repurpose them around the house. Most folks use them as gardening stakes as their flexibility comes in handy for such an outdoor use.

3. Re-use them as shelter rods.

Another way to repurpose old fishing rods is by turning them into shelter rods.

So if you like to set up your own little shelter when you spend some time outdoors, you don’t have to purchase rods that are specifically made for such purposes anymore.

4. Use for spare parts.

In case you’re the handy type and you would want to have a go at tweaking and tuning the mechanisms of your fishing gear, it would be ideal to hold on to your old fishing rods and reels. This way, you’ll have on hand spare parts for your projects.

Even faulty old rods can still find a lease on new life through this method, so it can be worth a shot.

The only downside is that you might end up hoarding old gear instead of decluttering your collection.

5. Donate them.

Last but definitely not least is donation. There are several organizations that accept old fishing rods, even the ones that don’t work anymore, so they can hand them down to folks who need them but can’t afford them.

These groups often work with the youth, so if you want to inspire younger generations to enjoy this beautiful sport, you should take this option into consideration.

Conclusion

There are lots of great reasons why you should find out what to do with old fishing rods.

Not only will this help you cut down the waste you create through your hobby but it will also let you help others as well.

Micropterus salmoides

by Wayne Jones Updated by Kevin Dockendorf, Fisheries Biologist, 2009.N.C. Wildlife Resources Commission.

Classification

Class: Osteichthyes (bony fishes) Order: Centrarchidae (sunfish)

Average Size

2 to 3 lbs.; the world record largemouth bass weighed 22 lbs, 4 oz. The North Carolina record is 15 lbs, 14 oz.

Food

Worms, salamanders, frogs, crayfish, snakes, ducklings, insects and fish.

Breeding

Spawning season occurs in spring when water temperatures reach 63 degrees. Female deposits eggs in nest guarded by male bass. From 2,000 to 12,000 fry hatch. Only 5 to 10 will reach 10 in.

Young

When hatched, largemouth bass are known as fry. Fry are less than 1 inch long and eat zooplankton. As they grow from 1 to 3 inches, largemouth bass are known as fingerlings and eat aquatic insects and small fish.

Life Expectancy

Females live longer than males. In North Carolina, 10 years is long-lived. Most survive only 3 to 4 years.

Range and Distribution

In North Carolina, the largemouth bass is found in ponds, reservoirs, streams and rivers throughout the state, as well as in brackish coastal waters alongside saltwater species. Populations are considered good in every area of North Carolina, with the best populations occurring in the Piedmont and Coastal Plain. Bass tend to grow faster and larger in reservoirs, although large fish are also common in many farm ponds and in some coastal rivers.

General Information

Largemouth bass are the most sought-after freshwater gamefish in the United States. There are several reasons for the popularity of this fish. Anglers can usually find waters that contain largemouth bass within a short distance from their homes; they can catch bass that regularly reach trophy size (7 to 15 lbs.); and these fish are exciting to catch, with a battle characterized by head shaking and explosive leaps from the water.

Description

Largemouth bass belong to a group of fish collectively called black bass. Other black bass found in North Carolina include the smallmouth and spotted bass. All black bass belong to the sunfish family, but are distinguished from other sun fish by their elongated bodies. Largemouth bass are distinguished from other black bass by means of the lower jaw, which is longer than those of other bass. The largemouth bass is also a bigger species than the smallmouth or spotted bass. There are two subspecies of largemouth bass: the Florida largemouth bass and the northern largemouth bass.

History and Status

The largemouth bass is a native species of North Carolina. In North America it was originally found from southeastern Canada through the Great Lakes; south down the Mississippi Valley to Mexico and Florida; and up the Atlantic coast as far north as Maryland. As the fish grew in popularity with anglers, it was stocked in other areas and today is found throughout the continental United States and Hawaii, and southeastern Canada. It has also been stocked in Europe, Asia, Africa and South America.

Habitat and Habits

The largemouth bass prefers habitat with lots of structure. This structure may be in the form of weed beds, sunken logs, rocks, brush and standing timber. It uses structure as cover for ambush sites and to hide from larger predators.

Largemouth bass prefer temperatures between 77 and 86 degrees. Bass seldom feed at temperatures below 50 degrees and cannot survive for long at temperatures above 98 degrees.

When water temperatures approach 60 degrees in the spring, male bass swim to the spawning grounds. Male bass spend several days selecting their nest sites. The beds are usually in 1 to 4 ft. of water, but they may be deeper in clear water.

Spawning begins when the water reaches 63 to 68 degrees and remains in this temperature range for several days. A female largemouth bass lays between 2,000 and 7,000 eggs per pound of body weight.

The male guards the nest, fanning the eggs with his tail to keep off silt and debris. He will attack anything that swims near the nest. Despite the male’s vigilance, many eggs are eaten by other fish species. Hatching time for bass eggs depends on water temperatures. If the water is 72 degrees, eggs will hatch in only 2 days, but they take 5 days to hatch in water around 67 degrees. Approximately 2,000 to 12,000 fry hatch from each nest. Of these, however, only 5 to 10 are likely to survive to reach a size of 10 in. Newly hatched largemouth bass feed on tiny crustaceans and other zooplankton until they reach 2 in. in length. Young largemouth bass eat insects and small fish, including smaller bass. The adult largemouth bass will eat almost anything alive that will fit in their mouths. Fish, worms, frogs, insect larvae, crayfish, salamanders, snakes, small mammals, birds and ducklings are also eaten. Anglers use a variety of natural baits and artificial lures to catch largemouth bass.

Springtime movements center around spawning when bass move from deep to shallow water. During the summer months, bass are active in shallow waters during the morning and afternoons, but may move to deeper water at midday, when the water temperature increases in the shallows. When the water starts to cool in the fall, bass return to the shallows to look for food. As the water temperatures decrease during the winter months, bass become more sluggish, their metabolism slows down, and they require less food. They may become active during winter months if several days of warm weather heat the water temperatures above 50 degrees.

People Interactions

Largemouth bass have had a tremendous influence on many people. Tackle manufacturers, boat dealers and bait shops all provide specialized gear for largemouth bass fishing, especially for an increasing number of anglers involved in largemouth bass tournaments. Largemouth bass fishing is big business; many people make their livelihood from this popular sport. Although water pollution is a real threat to largemouth bass and other fish populations in some waters, the largemouth bass is an adaptable species and, overall, its future looks bright.

NCWRC Interaction

After fish kills associated with Hurricane Isabel occurred in northeast North Carolina in 2003, fisheries biologists began an intensive largemouth bass stocking project to evaluate stocking strategies that may be used after future hurricane-induced fish kills. In 2004, largemouth bass of different sizes (8, 2 and 5 inches, respectively) were cheek-tagged with a minute magnetic tag and stocked in the Roanoke and Chowan Rivers; stocking size was related to the time of year that certain sizes of largemouth bass may normally occur. Stockings were evaluated through an intensive electrofishing recapture period; the recapture period was completed in spring 2007. Although an initial boost of tagged individuals was observed in the population, the number of tagged largemouth bass contributing to the population over time dwindled to a mere fraction of the naturally produced largemouth bass. In this case, natural recruitment was likely a product of a few fish that must have survived to reproduce and repopulate a devastated fish community. Still, this study provided valuable insight on a management strategy to monitor largemouth bass recovery. Plans include implementing a sub-adult stocking strategy, when minimal to no natural recruitment occurs after hurricane-induced fish kills.

Today I’m going to show you the best 22LR scope for target shooting.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested 18 scopes alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best 22LR optic, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

The 4 Best 22LR Scope for Target Shooting

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best 22LR scopes:

1. Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire: Best Overall 22LR Scope
2. Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire: Best Close-to-Medium Range Scope
3. Bushnell Drop Zone-22 2-7×32: Best Short-range Varmint Hunting
4. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Short-to-Long Range 22LR Scope

1. Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire: Best Overall 22LR Scope

The Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire is the best overall 22LR scope.

I’ve used it for hunting, target shooting, night time hunting and more.

What makes it so versatile?

Keep reading and I’ll show you…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Here’s the thing:

When a scope is positioned at a low price point like the Leupold Freedom Rimfire, it usually equates to reduced quality.

But that’s wasn’t the case here.

In fact, the glass on this scope is just as crisp and clear as the glass used on more expensive Leupold sights.

It’s also great in low light conditions, making the visibility problems I usually face with early morning shooting nonexistent.

But what about the reticle?

It’s a standard duplex reticle set in the second focal plane.

This allows you to have a strong and easy to see reticle at all magnifications.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

It has a whopping 4.1” of eye relief!

That’s more than any other scope on this list.

The best part?

You can shoot with both eyes open, and accurately hit your target without worrying about getting a black eye 🙂

Durability & Weight

The VX-Freedom Rimfire is well built.

It’s crafted with lightweight aluminum that is O-ring sealed and nitrogen purged.

In other words:

It’s completely shockproof, waterproof and fogproof.

In the dead of winter, with snow actively falling, I didn’t have a single temperature or fog related problem.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The dials worked correctly, and are set at ¼ MOA with audible clicks to ensure precision.

However, the knobs feel cheap. The plastic used on the knobs is soft and feels like something you find in a dollar store.

Don’t get me wrong:

The knobs work fine and do exactly what they are supposed to do. I just wish Leupold used a higher quality plastic or even aluminum for the knob.

That being said, they are accurate, easy to use and track true. It’s also easy to zero, and holds zero even with strong recoil or accidental drops.

Magnification & Parallax

The 1.5-4x magnification is perfect for hunting and target shooting.

In fact, I’ve used it up to 200 yards without a problem. Further than that would require more magnification. I’d recommend checking out myVortex Viper HST 4-16×44 Review.

Although parallax is fixed, I experienced no blurriness or fuzziness when shooting within 100 yards.

Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire Review: Is It Worth It?

If you’re looking for the best overall 22 LR scope that will work in almost any situation, then the Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire is for you.

Here’s why. It’s:

• Affordable
• Clear glass
• Lightweight
• Works well in low light
• Short-to-medium range magnification

In short:

The Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire Riflescope is budget friendly and easy to use scope. Plus, it’s backed by Leupold’s lifetime guarantee.

You break it, they’ll fix it…free of charge.

2. Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire: Best Close-to-Medium Range Scope

Looking for the best close-to-medium range scope for target shooting? Then get a Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32.

Not only is it affordable, but the scope’s features is built with quality.

Like what?

Keep reading to find out…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Glass clarity is always one of the defining features on a Vortex optic and the Crossfire II 2-7x is no exception.

This scope has a fully multi-coated lens that provides a stunningly bright and clear view of your target.

The lens also has an anti-reflective coating. This reduces light absorption to minimize any glare that could appear in your sight,

What’s better is the V-plex reticle.

It’s a popular hunting reticle that can be used for about any hunting applications. That’s why I recommended it in my 4 best scopes for Ruger 10/22 guide.

However, it’s wire constructed. Although it’s not bad, it can break and occasionally lose their position.

This reticle is a second focal plane (SFP) which lets you increase or decrease magnification without changing the size of the reticle.

So the reticle gets to do its job without obstructing your view of the target.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

One sure sign of a quality optic is the eye relief.

A good scope should allow you to have a comfortable distance between your eye and the eyepiece while still being able to clearly see the full field of view.

The Crossfire II really delivers in this area. It offers a very forgiving 3.9 inches of eye relief at the lowest magnification and 4.7 inches at the highest magnification.

The eye box (range of positioning behind the eyepiece) is also really generous. This allows for faster target acquisition and is a big reason why this optic can be recommended for both tactical use as well as for hunting.

Durability & Weight

The Vortex reputation is built on the company’s resolve to make a product that endures.

Crossfire II displays all the signs of the vortex standards

Like other Vortex products, the Crossfire II has been designed to surpass the standards of similarly-priced riflescopes.

The hard-anodized tube is made from aircraft-grade aluminum which protects it against scratches and dings.

The design is also shockproof, ensuring that the components aren’t easily jumbled by the movement of your gun. Not to mention movements that come with normal use, such as, having it packed up with the rest of your gear in the back of your truck, or even accidentally knocking it over or dropping it.

The scope is O-ring sealed and nitrogen purged, making it both waterproof and fog proof.

If for some reason any of these features fail or your scope is damaged in any way, Vortex covers it with its VIP lifetime warranty.

The company will either repair or replace your Crossfire II, no matter what the problem is or how long you’ve had it.

To top it all off, this heavy-duty scope weighs just 14.3oz. — a comfortable addition to most rifles.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets on the Crossfire II are medium height and finger adjustable.

The knobs have a sturdy feel to them and can be easily manipulated, even with a gloved hand. Both turrets are capped to protect your settings and can be reset back to zero after sighting in.

Windage and elevation can both be adjusted to 60 MOA with each click measuring ¼ MOA.

Magnification & Parallax

With a magnification of 2-7x, this is a scope meant for close to medium-range shooting.

The parallax adjustment is fixed up to 100yds which is a good fit for this level of magnification.

Vortex Optics Crossfire II 2-7×32 Review: Is It Worth It?

With a price tag of only $129, you are getting a great scope with quality features that many people pay twice as much for.

Not only that, but when you take into account the lifetime warranty, it’s almost a no brainer.

In short:

If you’re looking for a solid tactical scope that excels in hunting, then I’d recommend the Crossfire II.

3. Bushnell Drop Zone-22 2-7×32: Best Short-range Varmint Hunting

Want to do short-range varmint hunting?

Or rimfire tactical matches?

Then take a look at the Bushnell Drop Zone-22 2-7×32. It’s literally designed for the .22 LR round.

The best part?

It’s super affordable. Let’s take a closer look…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is surprisingly good.

In fact, I didn’t notice any tunnel vision from the bezel like I do with other similarly-priced optics.

But what’s even better is the Drop Zone-22 BDC reticle.

It’s specifically engineered for 38-40 grain, .22 LR high-velocity loads, with a 50-yard zero.

What that means is it specifically measures the .22 LR’s trajectory, giving you completely accurate bullet drop estimates.

This is perfect if you do short-range varmint hunting or rimfire tactical matches.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The 3.6” of eye relief is very forgiving — even at full magnification.

Also, the eye box is generous. I didn’t experience any eye fatigue.

Durability & Weight

The Drop Zone-22 is built like a tank.

It’s O-ring sealed, argon purged and crafted from durable aluminum. Which means, the scope is waterproof, fogproof and shockproof.

However, it comes at a hefty cost:

Heavy weight.

At about 19.5 ounces in weight, the Drop-Zone 22 is one of the heaviest scope in its class.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The exposed target turrets are reliable.

They produce positive, crisp clicks. No tools are required. And the ¼ MOA is very precise.

However, the dials are a bit stiff to turn…at first. With usage, it’ll loosen up.

Moving on, zeroing was easy. After 7 rounds, I was zeroed in. It also held zero like a champ. 82 rounds and a few hikes later, I still haven’t lost zero.

Magnification & Parallax

Just like the turrets, the power ring is also rather stiff.

The solution?

Use a throw-over lever. This makes turning the knob a breeze.

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The scope is also equipped with an adjustable side parallax knob. This is gold…considering the price of the optic.

It can adjust as low as 10 yards to infinity. A plus if you’re plinking, engaging close targets or rimfire shooting.

In short:

The 2-7x magnification and parallax adjustment is clean and precise.

Bushnell Optics Drop Zone-22 Review: Is It Worth It?

If you’re looking for a budget-friendly 22LR scope, then get a Bushnell Drop Zone-22.

Here’s why. It’s got:

• Durable
• Clear glass
• Long eye relief
• 22LR BDC reticle
• Side parallax adjustment

It’s literally designed for small game hunting, plinking and rimfire shooting.

The best part?

It’s backed by Bushnell’s lifetime warranty. So if ANYTHING happens to the scope, they’ll fix er’ up for free.

4. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Short-to-Long Range 22LR Scope

The Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 is the best short-to-long range scope for your 22lr rifle.

In fact:

The Argos BTR packs in many of the features of top-dollar scopes, but for a fraction of the cost. Like what? Keep reading to find out…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass on the Argos BTR is very high quality, which means the image you see through your scope is clear and crisp. In fact, the Argos BTR excels in low-light conditions.

I’ve found that it’s the perfect scope for dusk and dawn hunts. This is because the BTR is made with a fully multi-coated lens which provides fantastic light transmission.

I’ve noticed that when I zoom in to 18-24x, I get a little bit of blurriness. That said, for under $400, you really can’t beat the image clarity of the BTR.

Now let’s take a look at the reticle.

I was expecting a pretty basic reticle from this scope, especially considering the price. However, the BTR uses an illuminated, etched APMR MIL reticle. It’s anything but basic!

Here’s a look at the APMR MIL reticle:

I really like the illuminated reticle, especially when I’m shooting in low-light conditions. There are 11 brightness settings which means that I can find the perfect illumination level every time.

I do wish that the BTR had an auto-shutoff feature to help save on battery life, but I tend to keep an extra Lithium battery in my bag just in case.

Also, since the reticle is etched into the glass, you don’t need to turn on the illumination at all if you don’t want to. The etched reticle is also much more durable than a wired crosshair, so you don’t have to worry about your wires getting knocked off center.

One of the best things about the Argos BTR is that it is a first focal plane riflescope, which means that the reticle grows as you zoom in on your target. No more calculations for holdover or windage when you change your magnification.

I love that the MIL reticle works at all ranges, and this feature usually only comes in scopes that cost over $1000.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on the BTR is a nice, comfy 3.3 inches. This is perfect for low-to-zero recoil calibers like 22lr.

The eye box is also nice and generous, although I’ve noticed it does shrink a little as you zoom in to max.

Durability

The Argos BTR is incredibly durable. The tube is made from heat-treated, aircraft grade aluminum and is sealed with O-rings.

As if that’s not enough, the whole tube is made from a single piece of metal, which makes it stronger and more waterproof than multi-piece scope tubes. The BTR is also argon-purged and uses an etched reticle.

All of these features mean that the scope is able to handle any kind of conditions and take any kind of punishment that I might throw at it.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

Here’s the scope’s biggest con…

The turrets move very easily, with almost no resistance…which can lead to over adjusting.

However, I spent about ten minutes re-greasing the turret caps. When I was done, the turrets felt much less mushy and the clicks were a lot louder.

If you’ve never regreased turrets before, here’s a quick video showing you how to do it:

Zeroing was a very easy process. I was able to zero the scope in less than ten rounds once I was hitting paper.

And I’ve put hundreds of rounds through my 22lr since, and the zero has held true.

In my experience, these turrets have proved to be very reliable.

Parallax & Magnification

The parallax adjustment knob works very well. It’s easy to turn and accurate. This makes for easy adjustments in the field.

The 6-24x magnification is probably my favorite thing about this scope. Whether I want to shoot something ten yards out or plink a target at 1000 yards, the BTR is my go-to.

The scope image is very clear up until about 20x. After that it gets a little bit blurry, so you may want to invest in a higher-end scope if you want to do a lot of extreme distance shooting.

That said, I’ve found that the Argos BTR still functions well at 1000 yards, especially when you consider the price.

Mounting & Rings

The Argos BTR doesn’t come with any rings or a mount, so I’d suggest getting a set of High Scope Rings that fit your 22lr.

The scope does come with a set of lens covers, which is nice. It also includes a battery for the illuminated reticle.

I went ahead and bought a 50mm Athlon Sunshade to use for my daytime shooting.

It helps a lot with glare and reflections.

Is the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 Worth It?

If you need an all-range scope for your 22lr, you can’t go wrong with the Argos BTR.

Here’s why. It has:

• First focal plane
• 6-24x magnification
• Excellent in low-light
• Reliable, hand-adjustable turrets
• Illuminated, etched BTR MIL reticle
• Fully multi-coated glass for clear, crisp image

And all of this comes in a package that costs a fraction of what other competing scopes cost.

If all of that wasn’t enough, the BTR comes with Athlon’s Gold Medal lifetime warranty, so you know you’re covered if anything happens to your riflescope.

If you want all these features in a low-cost riflescope, then the Argos BTR 6-24×50 is for you.

Looking for a riflescope for your AR? Here’s our list of the 7 Best AR-15 Scopes and Optics.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best 22LR scope for target shooting guide.

So as a recap:

If you’re looking for the best overall .22LR target shooting scope, then get the Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire.

What about the best close-to-medium range optic? The Crossfire II 2-7×32 is for you.

If you’re into short-range varmint hunting, then opt-in for the Bushnell Drop Zone-22.

Or if you’re looking for the best short-to-long range scope, then get the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50.

Whichever .22LR scope you choose, you’re bound to hit a reliable, yet effective optic. I’ve spent hundreds of rounds through each one with no failure.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which rifle scope will you pick for your .22LR?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

Fishing always seems like a simple, laid-back event. It’s usually a family-bonding experience accompanied by a slow, leisurely boat ride and a picnic. You catch a few fish, maybe grill some, then release the rest.

As with most things, there are outliers to this stereotype. Instead of a calm and easy affair, an angling trip can also turn into a strenuous game of tug-of-war between you and a giant inhabitant of the seas.

Regular-sized fish may be the norm, but there are also people who have caught large, record-breaking creatures with just their trusty rod and reel. Here are some of the largest fish ever caught over the years.

3,427-Pound Great White Shark, New York, 1986

The biggest fish recorded to be caught on rod and reel is a controversial one. In August 1986, Frank Mundus and Donnie Braddick caught a 3,427-pound great white shark off the coast of Montauk in New York.

The two anglers were reportedly using a 150-lb test line on a group of white sharks. According to a 2005 recounting of Mundus himself, their fight to reel in the shark went on for a total of one hour and 40 minutes.

A Controversial Record Breaker

Unfortunately, the catch is considered to be controversial. There are accusations that Mundus was only able to catch the great white shark after fishing by a dead whale. The dead whale allegedly attracted the sharks, which allowed Mundus and Braddick to bait and reel it in. This violates the record rules of the International Game Fish Association (IGFA).

However, according to Mundus, his boat pulled up to an already dead whale. By his account, the whale had large bloody bite marks the size of peach baskets and still had blood coming out of its mouth. He claims he and Braddick waited by the whale until midnight, when two sharks slammed into the whale.

IGFA-Approved Honorable Mentions

Although the 3,000-plus pound great white shark that Mundus and Braddick caught is tangled up in some controversy, there have been plenty more large catches over the decades that are recognized and approved by the IGFA.

The five official largest fish ever caught on rod and reel while saltwater fishing are the following:

2,664-Pound Great White Shark, Australia, 1959

The contested and official largest fish caught on rod and reel are both great white sharks but are almost 1,000 pounds and over 30 years apart.

The official IGFA-approved record is held by Alfred Dean, who caught a 2,664-pound great white shark while angling in Ceduna, Australia back in April 1959. Since great white sharks have become a protected species today, this record-breaking catch will likely stay unbeaten for years to come.

1,785-Pound Tiger Shark, Australia, 2004

The next largest fish ever caught by an angler using only a rod and a reel is another shark caught much more recently. This time, it was a tiger shark weighing 1,785 pounds and 11 ounces. It was caught by Kevin J. Clapson in ULladulla, Australia in March 2004.

This catch is tied with another record-setting catch from 1964 by Walter Maxwell. The only difference between the two catches was 11 ounces, leading the IGFA to rule in favor of a tie.

1,708-Pound Greenland Shark, Norway, 1987

In October 1987, Norwegian angler Terje Nordvedt caught another large shark while angling in Trondheimsfjord, Norway. He used a herring as bait to reel in a Greenland shark. The fish weighed a total of 1,708 pounds 9 ounces.

Greenland sharks are one of the largest living species of sharks in the world. It can grow up to seven meters or 23 feet long and live up to 500 years old, based on radiocarbon dating.

1,560-Pound Black Marlin, Peru, 1953

The next largest fish ever caught on rod and reel is a welcome change from the shark family that dominate the top three spots. Taking the fourth spot is a gigantic black marlin caught off the coast of Cabo Blanco in northern Peru in August 1953.

The 1,560-pound black marlin was caught by angling legend Alfred C. Glassell, Jr., who used a 130-lb line class and bait. This catch is one of the longest-standing IGFA world records. This particular fish can still be seen as part of a permanent exhibition in the Houston Museum of Natural Science.

1,496-Pound Bluefin Tuna, Canada, 1979

Another non-shark entry rounds up the last spot in the top five largest fish caught by rod and reel. In October 1979, renowned heavy-tackle angler Ken Fraser used a mackerel as bait to reel in a 1,496-pound bluefin tuna. The huge fish was caught in Aulds Cove, off the coast of Nova Scotia, Canada.

This region is known for its bluefin tuna fishery. However, Fraser’s heavy-tackle angling record remains unbeaten to this day.

Making It Big

When it comes to saltwater fishing, a huge part of what gets you catches the size of those on this list is luck, patience, and perseverance. Of course, having the best fishing tackle matters too.

Increase your chances of catching record-breaking fish with Rite Angler’s high-quality tackle. We offer products designed for success and made with anti-corrosive materials for better durability to withstand stormy seas, the blazing sun, and the biggest catch.

Rite Angler has been the partner of many fishers and anglers since our founding in 1990, providing reliable terminal tackle and other fishing equipment for men and women serious about improving their fishing game.

Check out our website and order superior lures, lines, and tackle for your next fishing trip, today!