Themed parties are a great way to bring friends and family together for an unforgettable experience. If you’re looking for some unique ideas that will make your next themed adult party stand out, we’ve got you covered! We’ve gathered 6 unconventional themes perfect for getting everyone in attendance excited about the upcoming festivities. Whether you want something more subtle or outrageous and over-the-top, one of these six ideas is sure to be just what you need!

Mystery Dinner

Step back in time to the roaring 1920s where dinner parties were the events of the year. But this isn’t just any ordinary dinner, it’s a mystery dinner. As you indulge in a delectable three-course meal, you’ll work alongside your fellow guests to solve one of the most intriguing mysteries of the year. Who committed the heinous crime? Was it the sly butler? Or perhaps the sultry singer? With clues hidden throughout the room and red herrings designed to throw you off course, it’s up to you to put your detective skills to the test. So don your finest flapper dresses and fedoras, and join in on the thrilling fun of the mystery dinner.

Movie Night

Are you a die-hard fan of movie characters like Harry Potter, Luke Skywalker, or even the Joker? Well, get ready to bring those characters to life! It’s time for a movie night that’s unlike any other. You won’t just be watching your favorite films, you’ll be able to dress up as your favorite characters and even recreate some of the most memorable movie scenes of all time. This is your chance to unleash your inner actor and show off your creative side. So grab your popcorn, get your outfit ready, and get ready for an unforgettable movie night that will transport you into the magical world of the big screen.

Game Night

Looking for a fun and social activity to enjoy with your friends? Consider hosting a game night! Whether you prefer classic board games or challenging card games like poker, there’s sure to be something for everyone. You could even mix it up with a gel ball gun game for a futuristic twist! With snacks, drinks, and a little friendly competition, game night is the perfect opportunity to unwind and spend quality time with your friends. So clear your schedule, set up a game table, and let the fun begin!

Sing-Along Party

Get ready to belt out your favorite tunes with a sing-along party! All you need are some karaoke versions of your go-to songs and a group of enthusiastic friends. With each person taking turns to showcase their singing skills, it’s sure to be a night of non-stop laughter and fun. Whether you’re hitting those high notes or singing along to the classics, a sing-along party is the perfect way to spend an evening. So dust off your vocal cords and get ready to sing your heart out!

Old-Fashioned Tea Party

Step back in time with an old-fashioned tea party, where you can indulge yourself in an elegant and refined atmosphere. Bring out your fanciest tea set and set the table with elegant linens to create a vintage vibe that will transport you to a bygone era. Add a touch of sophistication with a selection of scrumptious scones, perfect for savoring with a generous dollop of clotted cream and jam. Sip on a cup of your favorite brew, and enjoy a delightful afternoon in the company of loved ones. Celebrate tradition and the finer things in life with an old-fashioned tea party that will captivate your guests and leaves them feeling thoroughly spoiled.

Art Show

There’s nothing quite like appreciating the creativity and talent of your friends. Hosting an art show is the perfect excuse to invite your creative pals over and showcase their latest masterpieces. From stunning paintings to intricate sketches, the possibilities are endless. And what better way to add some competitive flair than by offering a prize for the best artwork? It’s not just about winning though, it’s about sharing the joy of art and creating an environment where everyone feels inspired and supported. So why not gather your friends, break out the easels, and let the art judging begin?

No matter what type of themed adult party you’re looking to host, there are plenty of unconventional ideas that will make your event a hit. From movie nights and mystery dinners to art shows and old-fashioned tea parties, these six unique themes offer something for everyone. Not only will they create an unforgettable experience for the guests, but they’ll also give them an opportunity to show off their creative sides in a fun and supportive environment. So don’t be afraid to think outside the box when it comes time to plan your next themed adult party! With any one of these six ideas, you can rest assured that your gathering will be talked about long after it’s over.

Along with bobcats and black bears, coyotes are one of the few remaining predators of white-tailed deer following the extirpation—regional extinction—of cougars and wolves in Pennsylvania. Many deer hunters believe that “coyotes keep down the white-tailed deer population.” This has led to many coyotes being killed by deer hunters in the name of “saving” the deer herd, but is this true? No. Coming to this seemingly simply answer requires an understanding of population dynamics—how populations change over time—and the ecology of both species.

Following birth, death is the most significant event in an individual animal’s life. What killed an animal is significant to the individual, but on a population level, the individual’s death and cause of death is relatively unimportant. All that matters is how many individuals died in a year (deathrate), how many animals were born (birthrate), how many animals immigrate or emigrate to or from an area, and how many animals reach reproductive status (recruitment). In Pennsylvania, the deathrate of adult white-tailed deer tends to be stable and mainly driven by hunting. Recruitment is the number of fawns that mature into adult deer. This determines future populations, as mature deer are the only individuals that breed. In Pennsylvania, a deer that survives the hunting season has a 90% chance of surviving to the next year, so fawn survival is an important driver of deer population dynamics.

In some places, coyotes keep white-tailed deer recruitment rate low, but in Pennsylvania they do not. Predation is more complex than the simple killing of animals. The effects of predation are broken down into two types: compensatory or additive. Compensatory predation is when predators do not add to the deathrate: the animals that they kill would not have survived the year regardless of predators. Here is an example to better understand this complex topic: in a hypothetical Pennsylvania forest where there are no predators present, two deer die a year from starvation or disease. Then, coyotes enter the forest and eat two deer per year, but deer do not die from any other causes (such as starvation). In this example, predation is compensatory. To make this predation additive, two deer would die (from starvation or other causes) and two additional deer would die from coyotes per year. This woulddouble the annual death rate from two tofour deer per year, thus making predation additive.

For the most part, coyotes in Pennsylvania are compensatory predators of deer. This means, they do not impact a deer population. The deer they eat probably would not have survived the year. This finding has been demonstrated by several studies, one study looked at the deer populations in the Southeast and East Coast, which had recently been colonized by coyotes. If coyote predation was additive then deer populations would go down, but that is not what the study found. It found that deer populations increased following coyote colonization. Another study in South Carolina removed coyotes from a large area for three years, and the researchers found that the deer population was largely unaffected by removal. Instead of being eaten by coyotes, fawns died from other causes like starvation and disease. A study in Delaware reported that only 45% of monitored fawns were still alive 90 days after birth, but not one of the monitored fawns was killed by predators. Again, fawns died of disease, starvation, and vehicle collisions.

A study on fawn survival in Pennsylvania found areas with and without large predators including coyotes, black bears, and bobcats, had a similar survival rate. The study found that the mother is more important to a fawn’s chance of surviving than predators. If she is stressed (by humans or poor habitat), she cannot produce enough nutritious milk to feed her fawn(s). Doe age also has been found to have an impact on fawn survival, older does had higher fawn survival rates. Mature, experienced does are more likely to choose birthing sites with security cover and adequate food nearby. Young inexperienced does typically are left with less secure birthing sites and must travel farther from their fawn(s) to find food.

The Delaware study found that the greatest predictor of fawn survival is weight; fawns that are underweight are prone to higher mortality than heavier fawns. Underweight fawns are more susceptible to cold and rain and therefore more likely to contract disease. An inch of rain in one day doubles the risk of death in an underweight fawn. A heavy fawn is better able to regulate body temperature when wet or chilled. Underweight fawns are also more likely to get caught by predators than those at a healthy weight.

Understanding coyote predation also requires understanding the life history and ecology of coyotes and deer. It is generally accepted that only predators 50lbs or more can consistently take down healthy adult deer without the help of outside forces like injury, disease, or deep snow. Thus, only the largest coyotes could consistently prey on adult deer. This does not mean that coyotes do not eat deer. A recent review of the diet of coyotes, found that cervids (deer, elk, and moose) were the most common food item in their diet followed by rodents, plants, and rabbits and hares. The review could not differentiate between animals that were hunted or scavenged, and according to the study’s author it is likely that most of the cervids that are eaten were probably scavenged (e.g. roadkill, hunter-killed, or individuals that died from other causes).

Since coyotes struggle to take down healthy adult deer, they mainly predate fawns. But fawns are hard to find, they are camouflaged, almost scentless, and spend most of the day motionless in dense vegetation. If a fawn survives its first 30 days, it is highly likely to survive to adulthood, as it will be able to outrun potential predators.

Deer also avoid predation by “predator swamping”. This is when all does give birth around the same time each spring. By doing this, there are so many fawns on the landscape that predators cannot find and eat them all. If a coyote can find and eat one fawn, it will be satiated for a few days giving the rest of the fawns a better chance at surviving the crucial first 30 days. By giving birth in the spring, does are setting themselves up for success as this is the time of year when plants are the most plentiful and nutritious. This not only allows does to produce the most wholesome milk possible, but it also maximizes the potential cover for fawns, so they can better hide from predators.

If the goal of coyote population reduction is to increase deer populations, time and money would be better spent on deer habitat improvements than on coyote control. Proper habitat management increases available food and cover in a forest. Improved habitat conditions not only allow fawns to better escape predation it also reduce stress on does, increasing fawn birthweights and allowing them to produce more nutritious milk. Stress on females can also be reduced by establishing “reserve” areas or sanctuaries on a property where recreation does not occur or is limited. Limiting the use of motor vehicle and high-impact recreation in spring when fawns are especially vulnerable will help their survival.

It is important to remember that even with the best management, deer herd size will always be limited by habitat carrying capacity, the number of animals an area can support. Proper habitat improvement practices can increase carrying capacity. However, it does not go away, and there will always be a limit to the number of healthy deer an area can support.

References

Alex J. Jensen, Courtney J. Marneweck, John C. Kilgo, David S. Jachowski. 2021. Geographic and Seasonal Patterns in Coyote Diet. Proceedings of the 44th Annual Southeastern Deer Group Study.

John C. Kilgo, Mark Vukovich, H. Scott Ray, Christopher E. Shaw, Charles Ruth. 2014. Coyote Removal, Understory Cover, and Survival of White‐Tailed Deer Neonates. The Journal of Wildlife Management.

Justin R. Dion. 2018. Neonatal Survival and Spatial Ecology of Adult Female White-Tailed Deer in the Functional Absence of Predators. Thesis at the University of Delaware.

Justin K. Vreeland, Duane R. Diefenbach, and Bret D. Wallingford. 2004. Survival Rates, Mortality Causes, and Habitats of Pennsylvania White-Tailed Deer Fawns. Wildlife Society Bulletin.

Tess M. Gingery, Duane R. Diefenbach, Bret D. Wallingford, Christopher S. Rosenberry. 2018. Landscape-Level Patterns in Fawn Survival Across North America. The Journal of Wildlife Management.

Todd M. Kautz, Jerrod L Belant, Dean E. Beyer Jr., Bronson K. Strickland, Tyler R Petroelje, Rahel Sollmann. 2019. Predator Densities and White-Tailed Deer Fawn Survival. The Journal of Wildlife Management.

Reviewed by David Jackson

Discover the ultimate air gun capable of propelling pellets at an astonishing 3000 fps! Unleash unrivaled power and precision with this cutting-edge air rifle, designed to deliver unparalleled performance. Prepare to experience a whole new level of shooting excellence as you delve into the world of high-velocity pellet propulsion.

What air gun pushes a pellet 3000 fps?

When it comes to air guns, achieving high velocities is a sought-after feature for many enthusiasts. One of the air guns that is capable of pushing a pellet at an impressive speed of 3000 feet per second (fps) is the Benjamin Bulldog.357. This powerful air rifle has gained popularity for its exceptional velocity and accuracy, making it a favorite among hunters and competitive shooters alike.

The Benjamin Bulldog.357 utilizes pre-charged pneumatic (PCP) technology, allowing it to generate immense power with each shot. Equipped with a large air reservoir and a regulated system, this air gun can deliver consistent high velocities. Additionally, it features a top-loading rotary magazine that holds up to five rounds, providing quick follow-up shots without compromising performance.

With its ability to propel pellets at 3000 fps, the Benjamin Bulldog.357 offers users an incredible level of kinetic energy and range. Whether used for hunting small game or target shooting, this air gun’s impressive velocity ensures accurate shot placement and increased effectiveness. However, it is important to note that achieving such speeds requires proper ammunition selection and adherence to safety guidelines to ensure responsible shooting practices.

In conclusion, various air guns have the capability to propel a pellet at speeds of up to 3000 fps. The selection of an appropriate air gun depends on factors such as caliber, power source, and intended use. It is important for individuals to research and consider their specific needs before choosing an air gun for optimal performance and safety.

The new 300 PRC is getting rave reviews with the long range shooting crowd, but is it really a good choice for hunters?

If they’re not plugged into the long range shooting community, most hunters and shooters probably haven’t heard about the new 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge (300 PRC) Hornady officially released in 2018.

Hornady advertises that the cartridge was designed from the start to use heavy for caliber, extremely aerodynamic bullets that deliver excellent performance at long range. The cartridge has received a lot of hype recently, but do you really need one?

Ever since the .30-06 Springfield took the hunting world by storm at the beginning of the 20th Century, .30 caliber cartridges have been extremely popular among hunters and shooters in North America. Though the .30-06 was and is a great option for many uses, hunters and shooters looking for more power or better long range performance have flocked towards the various .30 caliber magnum cartridges for many decades.

The big gun and ammunition companies have responded to that demand in kind. Hunters these days now have a dizzying array of .30 caliber magnum cartridges to choose from like the .300 Winchester Magnum, .300 Weatherby Magnum, .30 Nosler, 300 WSM, .300 Norma Magnum, and the .300 Remington Ultra Magnum (among others).

For that reason, you can be forgiven for wondering why we need another .30 caliber magnum cartridge and what advantages the 300 PRC offers compared to those older cartridges.

Is the 300 PRC just a fad that people will forget about in a few years when the next big thing comes along? Does the 300 PRC provide enough benefits for hunters and shooters to justify making the switch over to the new cartridge?

In this article, I’m going to discuss the history as well as the strengths and weaknesses of the 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge in detail. I’ll also provide some information on how the 300 PRC stacks up next to the .300 Winchester Magnum so you can decide if it fits your needs as a hunter.

Before we get started, I have two administrative notes:

Some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

Additionally, I recorded an entire podcast episode on this exact subject. If you’d rather listen than read, click the appropriate link below to listen to this episode on your preferred podcasting service.

Be sure to hit that “Subscribe” button in your podcast player!

300 PRC Podcast

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300 Precision Rifle Cartridge History

With the rise in popularity of extra long range shooting during the 21st Century, ballisticians at Hornady identified the need for a .30 caliber cartridge designed specifically for that sort of work. Existing cartridges like the .300 Win Mag were certainly capable of excellent long range performance, but there wasn’t a .30 caliber cartridge purpose built for that task.

In particular, the existing .30 caliber cartridges were not well suited for using extremely long, high BC bullets.

To accomplish that mission, designers at Hornady decided to think outside the box.

Instead of building a cartridge based on existing design constraints imposed by the various common action lengths (short action, standard/long action, etc.), they elected to just build a cartridge designed specifically to do what they wanted, then build the rifle around it.

So, they took a necked down .375 Ruger cartridge case and built the cartridge with a very long head height.

Head height is the amount of space available for the bullet outside the case while staying within SAAMI specifications for the cartridge. Put simply, more head height facilitates the use of very long, aerodynamic bullets.

We’ll discuss this more later, but to calculate head height, subtract the case length of the cartridge from the maximum overall length.

In fact, due in part to the fact that it has a long head height, the 300 PRC has a pretty long overall length. At 3.7″ long, it’s actually too big to fit in a standard length action rifle.

At the same time, the .375 Ruger was designed with the same .532″ case head diameter as the .375 H&H. However, unlike the .375 H&H (and cartridges like the 7mm Rem Mag and .300 Win Mag descended from it) the .375 Ruger is a beltless cartridge, so the actual body of the .375 Ruger case is larger in diameter than the .375 H&H.

This results in increased case capacity for the 300 PRC (and the 375 Ruger) cartridge while still working with a standard magnum bolt face.

Hornady formally rolled out their new 300 Precision Rile Cartridge in late 2018 and it made a big splash at the 2019 SHOT Show. The cartridge, along with 6.5 PRC (also descended from the .375 Ruger), received formal SAAMI approval in August of 2018.

300 PRC Ballistics

Typical 300 PRC ballistics are a 212gr bullet at 2,860fps (3,850 ft-lbs) or a 225gr bullet at 2,810fps (3,945 ft-lbs). Both loads use long, aerodynamic, heavy for caliber bullets that minimize bullet drop and wind drift at extended range. 300 PRC factory loads generally have a muzzle velocity similar to the .300 Win Mag, but with a heavier bullet with a higher BC.

With careful handloading, it’s possible achieve slightly higher velocities with the cartridge and/or utilize even heavier and more aerodynamic bullets.

Specifically, maximum handloads published by Hornady show a velocity of 2,875fps with a 220 grain ELD-X bullet and a velocity of 2,700fps with a 250 grain A-Tip Match bullet. Both of those loads were obtained using a 24″ barrel, so your mileage may vary.

300 PRC vs 300 Win Mag

300 PRC and .300 Win Mag factory loads generally have similar muzzle velocities, but the 300 PRC shoots a heavier bullet with a higher BC. Therefore, 300 PRC has a slightly flatter trajectory, a little more retained energy, less wind drift, and somewhat more recoil than the 300 Win Mag.

That’s how the two cartridges compare to each other in a nutshell. As we drill down into the details of their similarities and differences though, several especially important factors emerge.

First off, the cartridges have different roots and were built with different goals in mind.

While the 300 PRC was purpose built for long range shooting, the .300 Win Mag was primarily designed for hunters. The Winchester cartridge was also originally designed in the early 1960s, well before hunters and shooters fully appreciated the need for longer and more aerodynamic bullets.

That’s not a knock against the .300 Win Mag at all, but the cartridge is a product of those times. It works great for many tasks (which we’ll get into in a minute), but the cartridge design simply has certain limitations.

The .300 Win Mag and the 300 PRC both fire the same .308″ diameter bullets. There is some overlap in the common bullet weights they use, but the 300 PRC generally works better with longer and heavier bullets.

For instance, the 300 Win Mag commonly uses bullets in the 150-210 grain range with 150gr, 165gr, 180gr, 190gr, and 200gr bullets being most common. The .300 Win Mag normally uses a 1:10″ rifling twist, which is optimal for stabilizing bullets in that weight range.

While the 300 PRC can use those lighter bullets, it’s most commonly available with either 212gr or 225gr bullets in factory loads. Handloaders have utilized bullets weighing up to 250gr with the cartridge with great success.

For this reason, most 300 PRC rifles usually have a relatively fast rifling twist rate (usually 1:8″) in order to stabilize those long, heavy, high BC bullets.

So, why is the 300 PRC better suited for using those heavier bullets than the .300 Win Mag?

As I mentioned earlier, the 300 PRC has more head height than the .300 Win Mag. You can calculate head height by subtracting case length from the overall length of the cartridge.

The folks at Winchester opted to build the .300 Win Mag to fit in a standard length rifle action. This meant a maximum overall length of 3.34″.

On the other hand, the designers at Hornady didn’t operate under those constraints. With an overall length of 3.7″, the 300 PRC requires a magnum length rifle action. At the same time, the .300 PRC actually has a tiny bit shorter case length than the .300 Win Mag (2.62″ vs 2.58″).

This results in a relatively short .72” head height for the .300 Win Mag vs a much longer 1.12″ head height for the .300 PRC.

Basically, having more head height means the 300 PRC offers more room outside the case for bullets than the .300 Win Mag. As you can see in the photo below, the 300 PRC can use long, sleek bullets without seating them so deep they intrude into the powder column or contacting the rifling upon chambering.

Why can’t handloaders just use those same long, sleek bullets with the .300 Win Mag and not seat them so deep in the case?

Well, that would result in an overall length in excess of the SAAMI specifications for the cartridge. Since gun manufacturers build their rifles to those same specifications, there simply isn’t enough space in a standard length rifle action (or magazine) for those longer bullets.

That said, some custom rifle manufacturers will build a .300 Win Mag using a longer magnum length rifle action to get around those constraints, which does give handloaders a bit more wiggle room when using longer bullets. However, this article is primarily focused on using rifles in common production, not custom builds.

At the same time, the 300 PRC has a longer case neck than the .300 Win Mag (.3076″ vs .264″). In general, a longer neck helps hold a projectile (especially a very long one) securely and concentrically, both of which help with accuracy.

The 300 PRC also has a smaller throat diameter than the .300 Win Mag.

The throat is the smooth portion of a rifle barrel closest to the cartridge. Having a more snug throat diameter means there’s less room for the bullet to yaw upon firing before engaging the rifling. This can also help enhance accuracy.

Well, the 300 PRC has a throat diameter just .0008″ larger than the bullet diameter while the 300 Win Mag throat has a whopping .007″ of clearance around the bullet.

Additionally, the 300 PRC has a minimally tapered beltless case with a 30 degree shoulder. The .300 Win Mag uses a belted case with a 25 degree shoulder.

While the .300 Win Mag is certainly capable of excellent accuracy in the right hands, the 300 PRC was specifically designed for exceptional accuracy and outstanding performance at long range. As you can see, it incorporates a number of features to help accomplish that goal. Not surprisingly, the 300 PRC is extremely highly regarded for being a very inherently accurate cartridge.

In addition to the advantages the 300 PRC has in terms of accuracy and bullet selection, it also has a slightly greater powder capacity.

As previously stated, both cartridges have the same .532″ case head diameter. However, the actual body diameter of the 300 PRC is the same diameter as the belt on the .300 Win Mag. Since the cases are almost identical in length, the 300 PRC can hold a little more powder (the 300 Win Mag has about 90-91gr of case capacity vs 97-99gr for the 300 PRC).

For example, the Hornady reloading handbook lists a maximum load of 77.0gr of powder for the 300 PRC when using a 225gr ELD Match bullet, but just 72.7gr of powder when loading that same bullet in the 300 Winchester Magnum (p585 of the Hornady 10th Edition Reloading Manual).

Finally, the 300 PRC also has a higher SAAMI maximum pressure of 65,000psi vs 64,000psi for the .300 Win Mag.

Note: while the powder capacity figures listed above do give a good indication of the differences between the two cartridges, exact case capacities vary slightly according to the brand of brass used.

The table below compares a 200gr Hornady ELD-X (.597 BC) load in .300 Winchester Magnum to a load shooting a 212gr Hornady ELD-X bullet in 300 PRC (.673 BC). This data is for Hornady Precision Hunter factory ammo using a 200 yard zero and a 24 inch barrel.

As you can see, the two cartridges have virtually the same muzzle velocity, but the 300 PRC shoots a heavier and more aerodynamic bullet. This results in the 300 PRC having a tiny bit flatter trajectory with just 1.6″ (4%) less bullet drop at 500 yards. The 300 PRC also has about 7% more energy at the muzzle and about 15% more energy remaining at 500 yards than the .300 Win Mag.

Since this article is focused on the performance of these cartridges for hunting, I didn’t include any ballistic data past 500 yards in the table above. However, just to give you an idea of the benefits of the 300 PRC over the .300 Win Mag at long range, consider this: the .300 Win Mag has 20″ (~8%) more bullet drop at 1,000 yards and 96″ (12%) more bullet drop at 1,500 yards with a 200 yard zero.

To further illustrate that same point, consider the supersonic ranges of the two cartridges. This particular .300 Win Mag load drops below the speed of sound around 1,500 yards, but the 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge stays supersonic out until around 1,700 yards.

That’s not nothing, but there’s also not a gigantic difference between them either.

The chart below compares how much a 10 mile per hour crosswind impacts those same loads for each cartridge out to 500 yards.

At 500 yards, there’s just 2″ separating them. Even at 1,000 yards, the .300 Win Mag has about 10″ (~18%) more wind drift than the 300 PRC. So, the 300 PRC does have an advantage in this area, but once again, there’s not a gigantic difference between them.

Now let’s talk about recoil.

The table below compares a couple of handloads that approximate the performance of the factory loads given above when fired from identical Christensen Arms Mesa rifles.

Felt recoil will vary from shooter to shooter and rifle to rifle, but free recoil energy is still a useful way to compare cartridges.

Not surprisingly, the 300 PRC delivers those ballistic advantages over the .300 Win Mag at the expense of about 13% more free recoil energy. That’s saying something too because the .300 Win Mag is known for having a relatively stout recoil itself.

Even so, the 300 PRC is still a very shootable cartridge, especially in a heavier rifle. So, it’s not like you’re dealing with .338 Lapua levels of recoil with it.

In fact, that is one of the other selling points of the 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge: it delivers a definite advantage over other .30 caliber cartridges at long range, but without the punishing recoil of higher tier long range cartridges like the .338 Norma or .338 Lapua.

That’s also one of the reasons why the United States Department of Defense recently bought some Barrett MRAD rifles chambered in 300 PRC to supplement the other cartridges the United States Special Operations Command (SOCOM) uses in their sniper rifles.

Take all that for what you will.

So where do we stand overall with the 300 PRC vs 300 Win Mag?

Basically, the 300 PRC is capable of firing a heavier, more aerodynamic bullet at virtually the same velocity attained by the .300 Win Mag when using lighter bullets. That translates into a slightly flatter trajectory, a little more resistance to wind drift, and a little more kinetic energy at typical hunting ranges.

If you want to use the 300 PRC for elk hunting, the additional couple hundred ft-lbs of kinetic energy the cartridge provides might come in handy, but then again, the .300 Win Mag is plenty powerful for that work and I doubt any elk will be able to tell the difference.

The flatter trajectory and more resistance to wind drift of the 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge can also help with shot placement. This does make the cartridge a little bit more forgiving of range or wind estimation errors than the 300 Win Mag, but once again, it’s not a tremendous difference.

While this is probably not an issue for most hunters, typical 300 PRC barrel life is very likely a little shorter than typical .300 Win Mag barrel life.

Since the two cartridges use the same diameter barrel, throat erosion occurs a little faster with the 300 PRC because it has a little bit more case capacity. Simply put, burning more powder in an equally sized space will result in shorter barrel life.

This means that, in general, the 300 PRC will wear out barrels a little faster than the .300 Win Mag will (which can be a bit of a barrel burner itself). Exactly how fast that occurs depends on a number of factors like the quality of the barrel, the exact ammunition used, etc.

For serious target shooters, this is a concern. However, the good news for hunters is that typical 300 PRC barrel life is more than enough to last for many years of hunting with no issues at all.

So, while there is a difference in .300 Win Mag vs 300 PRC barrel life, it probably isn’t going to be a big issue for most hunters.

Unfortunately, the 300 PRC does have more recoil than the .300 Win Mag though.

While many hunters should be able to handle the recoil of both cartridges without too much trouble, don’t underestimate the impact that recoil has on the ability of a person to shoot accurately either. Regardless of how well a given person handles recoil, all other things being equal, they will absolutely shoot better with a milder recoil.

All things considered though, both cartridges are very accurate, flat shooting, and hit hard enough for use on a wide variety of game at practical hunting ranges. Regardless of whether you’re using a .300 Winchester Magnum or a 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge, no pronghorn, mule deer, or elk will go far if you put a well constructed bullet into the vitals.

Of the two cartridges though, the .300 Win Mag is still by far the most popular with hunters. This is reflected in the prices, availability, and variety of factory ammunition and hunting rifles currently in production for each cartridge.

So, even though the 300 PRC does have some advantages on paper, those small advantages don’t make much difference for the vast majority of hunters. The .300 Win Mag is still a fantastic hunting round and it’s a whole lot easier to find .300 Win Mag rifles and loaded ammunition.

If you already have a .300 Win Mag, there’s really not a big reason to upgrade to the 300 PRC unless you just want to.

In fact, the .300 Winchester Magnum is probably the better all around choice for most hunters.

That said, the 300 PRC gives hunters the ability to wring a little bit more performance out of a .30 caliber magnum cartridge. If you really enjoy shooting at longer range, then the inherent accuracy of the cartridge and the fact that it’s designed to use very heavy, high BC bullets are both compelling arguments in favor of the 300 PRC.

It’s a wonderful cartridge for long range precision shooting and I can certainly understand why somebody who used the cartridge for that sort of work would also want to take a 300 PRC afield.

300 PRC Ammo

The 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge does have a pretty dedicated following, but it’s not extremely popular in absolute terms and can’t certainly hold a candle to more established cartridges like the .270 Winchester or .30-06.

This will likely change in the future, but Hornady is the only major ammunition company currently producing 300 PRC ammo. The cartridge is available in both the Hornady Precision Hunter and Hornady Match lines with 212 grain ELD-X and 225 grain ELD Match bullets respectively.

Some people do hunt with the Match loads, but the Precision Hunter line is purpose built for long range hunting and is generally the better choice for most game.

Just as you’d probably expect, 300 PRC ammo is usually more expensive and not as easy to find as more popular cartridges. Since it’s used by a relatively small segment of the hunting world, not every sporting goods store keeps 300 PRC ammo in stock, but most of the big retailers in the USA usually have a couple of boxes of ammo on hand for the cartridge.

That said, I wouldn’t count on finding 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge ammunition in smaller gun store. Availability of ammunition is usually pretty good online though and most of the bigger retailers typically have a good selection of quality factory 300 PRC ammo in stock.

BUY SOME EXCELLENT 300 PRECISION RIFLE CARTRIDGE AMMO HERE

Reloading components for the cartridge (like 300 PRC brass) are available though. The high price of factory ammo and the difficulty involved with obtaining a reliable supply of ammo at times makes it a good choice for handloaders.

One other good point about the cartridge is that even though it’s not nearly as common as other .30 caliber cartridges, the fact that it satisfies a niche market does make it less susceptible to panic buying (unlike the .223 Remington or .308 Winchester for example). So, you’ll probably still be able to find 300 PRC ammo on shelves when people are buying everything else.

Since it uses the same .308″ bullet size that’s also used by the .308 Winchester, .30-06 Springfield, .300 Win Mag, and .300 Remington Ultra Magnum (among others), reloaders have access to a good number of outstanding quality bullets in the 180-200 grain range suitable for use on a wide variety of game to choose from.

However, there’s not quite a big of a selection of really heavy, high BC .30 caliber bullets. Aside from the aforementioned Hornady bullets, 190gr and 200gr Barnes LRX will work well with the 300 PRC (it’s a pure copper bullet, so the LRX is longer for a given weight than a lead core bullet) . The same goes for a couple of different options from Berger, so reloaders should be able to make a custom hunting load that works well for their needs.

300 PRC Rifles

The increasing popularity of long range precision shooting has resulted in a good selection of high quality rifles available for the 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge.

Among other companies, Barrett, Bergara, Browning, Christensen Arms, Fierce Firearms, GA Precision, Gunwerks, Hill Country Rifles, Howa, Ruger, and Seekins Precision all manufacture bolt action 300 PRC rifles.

So, while the selection of ammunition available for the cartridge is relatively small, hunters actually have some really nice rifles to choose from.

BUY A CHRISTENSEN ARMS 300 PRC HUNTING RIFLE HERE

BUY A BROWNING 300 PRC HUNTING RIFLE HERE

BUY A RUGER 300 PRC HUNTING RIFLE HERE

Best 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge Ammo For Hunting

Unlike the .300 Win Mag, there aren’t many options for factory 300 PRC hunting ammo right now. That’s slowly changing though.

If you’d like to learn more about some of the various hunting ammunition choices for the 300 PRC read this article:

Best 300 PRC Ammo For Hunting Elk, Deer, & Bear

Final Thoughts On The 300 PRC

The 300 PRC is a very well designed cartridge that offers some real advantages to long range shooters and fills an important niche among the various .30 caliber magnum cartridges. I’m actually a little surprised it took this long for a cartridge that fills that void to come along, but better late than never and Hornady did an excellent job when they designed the 300 PRC.

While a surprisingly large number of shooters and hunters have adopted the new cartridge, the small benefits it offers over more established calibers like the .300 Win Mag and .300 Remington Ultra Magnum probably aren’t big enough for most hunters to justify making the switch.

This is especially true considering the lack of 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge ammo choices at this point. Even so, the ammo selection for the cartridge will almost certainly improve in the future if the cartridge continues to grow in popularity. So, if you’re the type of person who wants to wring out all the performance you can from a certain caliber, by all means get a 300 PRC.

It’s a fantastic cartridge and I’m sure it will serve you well, particularly if you enjoy shooting at longer range.

Do you have a rifle chambered in 300 PRC that you’re itching to take on a hunt?

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J Scott Olmstead’s article for The American Hunter was used as references for the history of the 300 PRC. The Hornady 10th Edition (p574-585) reloading manual (and their online supplement) provided data to compare their size and recoil of the .300 Win Mag and 300 PRC. The data used to compare the trajectory of the cartridges was obtained from Hornady (here, and here). Maximum pressure for the .300 Win Mag and maximum pressure and cartridge dimensions for the 300 PRC were obtained from SAAMI (p172 for the .300 Win Mag) and here for the 300 PRC. Case capacity information for the 300 Win Mag and 300 PRC were obtained from Chuck Hawks (here) and from Hornady. I used Shooters Calculator to compare trajectories, wind drift, and recoil for the cartridges.

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NEXT: BEST 6.5 CREEDMOOR AMMO FOR HUNTING ELK, DEER, AND OTHER BIG GAME

NEXT: BEST GIFTS FOR HUNTERS

Tree stand selection, placement, set-up and safety all factor into a successful hunt—and each aspect is a never-ending topic of discussion. Everyone has their own opinions on placement, hanging tactics, concealment and even the tree stand itself. While tree stand hunting is a personal decision, there are a few basic principles that can increase a hunter’s odds of seeing deer, having a good shot and make the entire process far more comfortable—and safe.

Portable tree stands come in three main categories, each suited to different uses and hunter preferences. Hang-on stands, the most basic, are simple stands that must be manually moved into place and secured carefully. Just like the name suggests, self-climbing stands allow a hunter to “walk” the stand up a tree and are best-suited to smooth trees with no branches between the hunter and the ground. Ladder stands look like a combined ladder and tree stand, and can be used on a wide range of trees but are often more conspicuous. Of the three options, hang-on stands are the most commonly used.

We covered tree stand placement thoroughly in our recent post How to Hunt Whitetail Deer Using the onX Hunt App, including sitting food, water, cover and seclusion. We also showed how best to enter and exit your stand without disturbing nearby deer and ruining that shot you’ve been waiting for all season. During the summer months, consider clearing multiple trails into your stand so you can walk in based upon deer feeding habits, wind direction and time of day, and mark these trails on the onX Hunt App.

onX Ambassador Steve Tittsworth knows that in his home state of Tennessee, tree stand placement is the most important part of the hunting puzzle. “Over the course of many years, our deer have learned to look up,” Tittsworth shares. “Once I have determined where I need my stand relative to the deer I’m hunting, I look for cover while looking up myself. Be it 30 feet high or only eight feet high, if that perfect tree is a white oak, hickory or hemlock, I’m looking up for the spot that a deer can’t see. Many times I’ve put a set at only eight feet off the ground in a leafed limb cluster and watched deer look right over top of me. I also set these up so I’m completely covered while the deer is directly under me and my opening comes as the deer is passing me. This ensures he’s looking away and the shot is never quartering to me. Higher is not always the best answer.”

onX Community Engagement Specialist Jared Larsen spent his fair share of time in tree stands while growing up hunting both Wisconsin and Iowa. And after years of hunting out of tree stands, he’s finessed his stand maintenance and set-up for maximum safety and comfort. He recommends:

• Oiling moving / connecting parts in the off-season to eliminate creaking in the cold.

• Adding felt tape between metal parts that touch and move (i.e a metal seat that you can fold up when you stand and fold down to sit—where it folds down, tape with felt to eliminate the metal-to-metal contact).

• If you have large feet, invest in a stand with an oversized platform (small platforms are a common issue with ladder stands).

• If you choose to leave your stand up year-round, remove your foam seating pads; otherwise the foam becomes a favored food for mice and squirrels.

• A screw-in bow holder for warmer hands and far more comfortable sits.

Once ensconced in your tree stand, ensure that you place your gear in easy-to-access locations. The last thing you want to be doing when the time comes is scrabbling for binos or rangefinders—a bit of advance planning can keep things calm, cool and collected and ensure you’re not spooking that mature buck that’s finally decided to make an appearance.

Tree stand security is a significant problem in some regions. Consider placing your tree stand away from heavily-used trails in locations where it’s harder to spot (then add a Waypoint in your onX App so you can find it easily, and share with friends if needed). Secure your stand with a highly-visible lock (a log chain or cable lock works well)—often a would-be thief will be deterred simply by seeing a lock. You can also remove the bottom of the ladder, tree steps or climbing sticks, making the tree stand not readily accessible.

Aaron Warbritton, host of the Hunting Public and onX Ambassador, has a few tricks of his own for tree stand hunting in the Midwest. “I use a lineman’s rope to hang the stand. It allows me to safely lean away from the tree and use both hands to set the stand up, making for a much quicker and safer setup,” he shares.

He adds: “Before I leave the ground, I’ll also tie one end of a 30-foot rope to my waist. The other end I tie to my gear (bow, pack, etc.) so I can pull it all up once in the stand. I also use milkweed pods as wind checkers. The seeds float for a long distance so you can watch wind currents away from your stand, unlike powder which only tells you wind direction at your exact location.”

Tom Petry, onX Ambassador and co-owner of Become 1 TV, believes the details truly set apart serious tree stand hunters. He shared a few of his tips with us:

• When transporting stands to and from your location, be sure to keep all straps, chains, etc. secured to the stand. The sound of metal clanging on metal travels a long way and can spook your game before you get a look at it.

• Once hung, be sure to secure all straps, pull-up ropes and loose pieces so they aren’t blowing in the wind. Dangling straps increase your chance of being seen or heard even when you aren’t in the stand. Spook a mature buck once—even when you aren’t there—and they may change their route instantly.

• Always have at least two stand sets for your major hunting areas, and set up accordingly for your two most typical wind directions.

• Be sure that your access to and from the stand is well thought out. From noise to exposure, how stealthy is your approach?

• Choose a location that will provide a good backdrop, especially if it’s a location that you will hunt throughout the year.

• Always check ratchet straps before hanging a stand. If there is ever a doubt as to the integrity of a strap, throw it out and go buy a new one… it will be much cheaper than the hospital bills.

• Never think you are too cool for lifelines and safety harnesses. They will never be as uncomfortable as the result of falling out.

And don’t forget the creature comforts. If the weather is cold, bring along more layers than you think you’ll need—nothing saps body heat like sitting still in an exposed environment. Layer up, keep your head covered to save body heat and never underestimate the chilling power of a persistent breeze during a cool morning. (Or the hot, beating sun in the afternoon.) Even if it’s pleasant in town, weather in the woods tends to have a mind of its own.

Anyone who has spent time in a tree stand will tell you to bring snacks and entertainment. Snacks, hot coffee and something to burn the hours will go a long way once you’re settled in your tree stand and waiting for the deer to arrive to the area. Make sure wrappers are not crinkly and loud—if it sounds loud in your house, it’s going to sound even louder in the woods. Repackage food into quieter containers if necessary.

Basic tree stand safety—wearing a harness at all times, having a lifeline system on each stand, conducting regular maintenance and hanging your treestand at the appropriate height—all factors into your success in the field. Practice your movements of getting in and out of the tree stand and know your personal limits. With a bit of advance research and good, old-fashioned hard work, you can have your most productive hunting season to date.

header image: Dave Fields

The most eye-opening learning experiences that I had in my early years were when I started branching out from my home state of Wisconsin. Falling on my face a few times while trying to improve and manage new deer hunting properties taught me very swiftly that few things work everywhere. Deer all have their own personalities, the habitat changes from fence line to fence line and the specifics of each area are quite different. Combine that all and I’ve found it a bit risky to make blanket statements about whitetails, habitat and even the best habitat improvements. Too often, what’s best for one is an utter disaster for another.

That applies to food plot plantings to a great extent, as well. Go to the northwoods of Minnesota, the Upper Peninsula of Michigan or any other large, exclusively wooded area. The same plantings that are ignored in the farm belt can be true deer magnets in the big woods, simply due to a lack of better options.

Go to the dry, sand country of the Southwest and try growing clover in the desert-like conditions without irrigation. It really doesn’t matter that the deer would love it — if it simply won’t grow.

There are a whole bunch of factors that play into these types of things. Still, the longer that I focus on habitat improvements, I keep coming back to the same five crops that find their way into my various food plots. No, I don’t have any great solutions for the desert, but these will do well for almost everyone else, as they are easily my top five deer plantings.

1. Cereal Rye

Cereal rye is such a backbone of my food-plotting methods that I recently wrote an entire article on it. If you’re not well versed on the benefits of cereal rye, I strongly recommend reading that piece carefully. Cereal rye truly is a food plot and deer-feeding workhorse.

The highlights are that it does extremely well at building the health of the soils, while being very easy to grow, offering superior weed control properties and it merely goes dormant during freezing temperatures. The dormancy is important since not only is cereal rye a powerful draw during deer season, it also is during any portion of winter that snow depths allow deer to paw through the snow to the feed. At the same time, any temperature thaws result in a near instant snap back to growth mode. This 15% protein source that’s highly digestible two to four weeks before spring green up can be a tremendous aid to whitetail survival and health, as well as a big antler builder.

Rather than go any deeper on the subject, please read the entire article. Basically, cereal rye is a tremendously productive planting for both deer and soil health.

2. Clover

My second choice really depends on one’s latitude and the severity of the region’s winters. If it’s in Wisconsin and points north, clover would actually drop to my third choice. With that being said, for Iowa, Illinois, Indiana and states experiencing similar winters, clover is a solid No. 2. Due to their comparatively mild winters, clover is a year-round food source in such states.

A really nice thing about clover is that it’s easy and low maintenance to grow. You’ll notice that in all but two of these seed types, I am not mentioning product names. With that being said, in both the clover and brassica sections, I feel that I have to. While working as a sunflower breeder’s research assistant for a large seed company for three years while in college, I learned fast that there are all sorts of different types of sunflowers. There are the general varieties, such as dwarfs, multi-headed and the standard, tall sunflower, but you can breed strains of each for virtually any trait imaginable.

I explain this because many food plotters realize that deer tend to prefer white clover. The catch is that every white clover available has been bred for varying traits. Some are more desirable to deer than others and their hardiness will vary wildly.

For that reason, I feel the need to point out that when I’m talking about clover, I’m specifically referring to Antler King’s Trophy Clover. I have conducted many field trials with this seed, as closely as I could to those that I conducted for the seed company in college. Antler King’s Trophy Clover, as well as their Honey Hole brassica mix, consistently come out on top for the criteria that I value the most. So, when discussing clover and brassicas, those are the specific seed blends that I’m referring to. This is important to note, as results with others may vary.

With that in mind, here is how I consistently get more than seven years of production out of my clover plots.

It all begins with soil testing and properly amending the soil for clover. I usually plant cereal rye the fall before in the selected plot. Doing so enables me to return in late February or March to frost seed clover into last year’s annual crop. When doing so, I seed at 125% the suggested rate and the cereal rye serves as its cover crop. Its ability to allelopathically control weed competition helps combat grasses and broadleaf weeds, but doesn’t impact the clover.

I let that grow until late summer, when I mow the crop for the first time. After that, I merely frost seed each late winter, now at 50% of the suggested rate, spray a grass-only killer once in late spring/early summer, then mow several weeks later and once again in late summer, and apply fertilizer every second year. I continue repeating that cycle until I swap the plot out for something else or when too many weeds start taking over.

When one considers its highly digestible protein levels, the raw tonnage of forage it produces, its comparatively low cost and maintenance, as well as its year-round ability as a food source, and even its eight to nine month production in the harsh winter regions, clover is a heck of a good choice.

3. Brassicas

The differences in varieties are significant in the brassica family of plants, as well. This large family of plants has the reputation as being a great late-season option, as frosts bring the sugars up from the roots of many of its members. When that occurs, the deer can go from ignoring them, to wiping out brassicas in the time that it takes for a hard frost to hit.

But, for as good as brassicas can be as a late-season option, the right mix of strains can result in season-long drawing power for a brassica plot.

This was made painfully obvious to me than when managing ground in southeast Minnesota. Within a half-mile of a 2-acre food plot location, deer could find corn, beans, alfalfa, clover, acorns and a surplus of apples, just to name the bigger draws. Still, the 2 acres of Antler King’s Honey Hole that I planted was completely wiped out by before the first week in October. With the germination and growth rates being optimal, I was shocked.

When troubleshooting the situation with the owner, he suggested the brand that he’d always used, as the deer didn’t touch them until after a couple of frosts. When I planted 1/2 acre in that same location the following year, the plot wasn’t touched before November and lasted beyond the end of the season.

The reason for that stark difference was merely the specific brassica strains used. Most brassica mixes contain varieties that peak in desirability after frosts, whereas Antler King’s Honey hole was specifically designed to offer highly attractive early-, mid- and late-season varieties.

Honey Hole also tests extremely well all winter long. As Todd Stittleburg, founder and developer of Antler King Products for the last 30 years recently told me, “I sent random samples of Honey Hole that I collected from a farm in Wisconsin in February to be tested. If you can offer added energy and protein in January it is important, but it is critical in February. If we can turn deer on to a food source with energy close to and with protein three times higher than corn, that’s a really big and helpful deal! That can make a big difference in animal health, survival, reproduction and rack sizes — and we have just that with Honey Hole.”

In fact, it tested at 25.4% protein, in February, well after the plants fully matured.

To get added production in brassica plots, once they reach 4 to 8 inches high, I top seed about 100 pounds per acre with a mix of three parts cereal rye and one part oats into the brassica plot. Since those seeds will just be spread on top of the dirt, timing this before an all-day soaking rain is best.

By letting the brassicas germinate first, they have a head start on growth, allowing them to stay ahead of the mix. That is, until the deer start hammering the brassicas. Then, as the brassicas are browsed down, the mix of rye and oats continues feeding the deer.

Finally, although I’ll go higher than the suggested seed rate on most all other plantings, I won’t on brassicas. The brassica family has a high tendency for preferring elbow room. If you want to grow big brassicas they need space. It’s the one seed blend that I’d rather plant light than heavy, as production really suffers when planted too thick.

4 and 5. Corn and Soybeans

Frankly, I use as little corn and soybeans as I can get away with each year. As often as not, I’m buying corn and beans back from farm renters at their input costs. Depending on the quality of the crop produced, the input costs per acre of corn range from $300 to $450 an acre. For soybeans they run from $150 to $300 per acre.

That right there is why I plant and/or buy back as little corn and beans as needed to reach the property owners’ goals. They are expensive crops to plant for deer food plots, considering that I can plant any of the other crops listed in this article at a small fraction of those costs.

With that being said, soybeans are good at feeding deer from a few weeks after emergence until the pods are finally wiped out by deer, hopefully in the middle of, or later in winter. Beans and their greenery offer good nutrition that entire time.

Corn is high in energy, which can be very important to prep for the rut and then survive winter, but otherwise it’s rather low in nutritional benefits. At the same time, corn isn’t nearly as consistent of a deer food source. They’ll feed on the young stalks, but lay off as they mature. Then, they hit the dried corn again.

The biggest reason that I plant corn and soybeans is to allow the deer to feed on both, without the need to leave the property. When a property has a lot of acres of food plots to use, that’s when I’m adding corn and beans.

When planting the beans or corn specifically for deer, my first step is to try to score free seeds. Various wildlife organizations often give them away. Another option is to become friends with the local seed co-ops. They can’t or won’t sell seed produced the year before. Get to be good enough friends with them and one can get lucky and have them save those seeds for you.

When the seeds are free or cost very little, it becomes much easier to do what I’m about to suggest. That’s to double plant corn and beans that will be left for the deer. After doing the north/south rows like normal, go back over the same plot with east/west rows. If you put that in a good location for deer, you can pretty much bank on them thinning out your crop. Double planting allows for smaller acreages to survive heavy deer browsing and still often produce an acceptable crop.

Then, as the cherry on top, top seed the same 3:1 ratio mix of cereal rye and oats right into the standing crops in late summer or early fall. Do that and you just greatly extended the life of and tonnages produced by the plot, while also building soils and offering more of a smorgasbord feeding option.

Conclusion

Just as I mentioned at the beginning of this article, next to nothing in the habitat improvement or hunting worlds will work best for everyone, in every situation. After having personally broken dirt for food plots all over the Midwest and points north, these are the five plantings that I’ve found to work best for me, in my specific situations in accomplishing my specific goals. I sure can’t promise that you will be as thrilled with all of these plantings as I have been. But, if you aren’t happy with your plots’ production rates, these are good places to start your search for something that will produce the results you are looking for.

— Steve Bartylla has been a Deer & Deer Hunting contributor for more than 25 years. He is cohost of Deer & Deer Hunting-TV on Pursuit Channel, and host of DeerTopia and two top-rated online shows: Grow ’em Big and Hunt ’em Big at www.deeranddeerhunting.com.

Given the ever-increasing proximity of neighbors due to suburban sprawl and the boost in sales of .22 caliber sound suppressors for range and field use, it’s little wonder why subsonic .22 Long Rifle (LR) loads have grown by leaps and bounds in recent years. In fact, MidwayUSA currently lists more subsonic .22 LR options than supersonic on its website. There are several reasons for this shift: Beyond maintaining positive relationships with nearby residents, subsonic .22 LR loads also don’t frighten livestock or game, and their use helps preserve one’s hearing—especially when coupled with a quality suppressor, and they’re often more accurate than their supersonic brethren, too.

To qualify as “subsonic,” the projectile mustn’t break the speed of sound, and that rate varies greatly. Depending on the temperature, humidity, air pressure and elevation, it’s reported to range between 1087 fps and 1129 fps. For extra “cushion,” I opt for loads with velocities at (or less than) 1050 fps. At such speeds, the ammunition doesn’t produce the associated “crack” of supersonic ammo across a host of climates and locations.

Within the realm of subsonic .22 LR ammunition, there exists a multitude of configurations, and not all are well-suited for hunting small game. Outside of a restrained marksman who can consistently make head shots on squirrel-size game, lead, round-nose subsonic loads should be relegated to range work. Even lethal hits will often result in a lost animal. This is particularly true of squirrels, which will quickly scurry into a nest or hole in a tree.

To counteract the loss of energy and terminal performance due to lower velocities, you need a bullet that maximizes the wound channel(s). The most lethal bullet designs for use at subsonic velocities will be a traditional hollow-point or specialized, segmenting hollow-point. I’ve experienced good results with both designs.

Beyond terminal performance, the loads must function flawlessly in the rifle, too. Due to their low velocities—and, at times, low bullet weights—cycling can be particularly problematic for semi-automatic rifles. Such is not the case with bolt-, pump- and lever-action rifles.

For this article, I selected six current, subsonic .22 LR loads suitable for small-game hunting and subjected them to a barrage of tests to evaluate relative sound, accuracy (five-consecutive, five-shot groups at 50 yards), functioning, velocity and terminal performance (in modeling clay at 25 yards). The rifle employed was a Ruger 10/22 fitted with a 16 ½-inch Tactical Solutions barrel with a YHM Mite suppressor, topped with a Weaver Grand Slam 4-16x44mm riflescope. In addition to the particulars of each load and the test results, I also identified the advantages and drawbacks, if any. Please keep in mind that these results are from a single rifle, and each rifle has different preferences. Nevertheless, hopefully this will ease your decision-making process.

1. Winchester Subsonic 42 Max• Particulars: Manufactured in Australia, Winchester’s Subsonic 42 Max features—unsurprisingly—a cavernous, truncated-nose, hollow-point, 42-grain lead bullet propelled to 1065 fps. That equates to 106 ft.-lbs. of energy. MSRP: $5.39 per 50-rnd box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: Across a Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph at five feet, Subsonic 42 Max loads averaged 1001 fps, and were fairly loud. I ranked them as the third loudest. Concerning accuracy, the Aussie loading was disappointing; for five consecutive, five-shot groups at 50 yards, the average was 1.63 inches—the largest of the batch. That being said, functioning in the semi-automatic test rifle was flawless, and the bullets delivered devastating terminal ballistics in the clay. Beyond a large cavity, the bullet traversed the full length of the clay block.

• Advantages: Noteworthy terminal ballistics, flawless cycling, reasonable price

• Drawbacks: Disappointing accuracy, fairly loud

2. Winchester Super-X 22 Long Rifle Subsonic

• Particulars: Available on a somewhat inconsistent basis, Winchester‘s Super-X 22 Long Rifle Subsonic load features a 40-grain lead, truncated-cone, hollow-point bullet propelled to 1065 fps. Also manufactured in Australia, the bullet has five less ft.-lbs. of energy than the abovementioned load. MSRP: $4.99 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: Posting an average velocity of 1042 fps, Winchester’s Super-X 22 Long Rifle Subsonic load was the fastest of the bunch, and it was the loudest, too. Moreover, it produced the second largest groups; for 25 shots, the mean was an unremarkable 1.53 inches. There was one failure to eject. As for terminal performance, the 40-grain bullet created a massive wound channel and traveled nearly the length of the block of clay.

• Advantages: Impressive terminal ballistics, fast, relatively inexpensive

• Drawbacks: Unsatisfactory accuracy, loud

3. ELEY Subsonic Hollow

• Particulars: A true premium-grade .22 LR load, Subsonic Hollow is manufactured by ELEY in England and features a 38-grain lead, hollow-point bullet propelled to 1040 fps. Energy is 96 ft.-lbs. MSRP: $9.29 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: With a mean velocity of 993 fps, ELEY’s Subsonic Hollow was third fastest, but second loudest. In addition to delivering flawless functioning, the load also proved to be the most accurate; in fact, five, five-shot groups averaged 0.89-inch. In a match-grade rifle, it’d be scary accurate. Despite a great showing in the accuracy department, its terminal performance was somewhat lacking. Although ample to deliver a quick, fatal blow to small varmints and game, larger species might travel a bit further before succumbing.

• Advantages: clean, accurate

• Drawbacks: expensive, smallish wound channel, somewhat loud

4. CCI Quiet-22 Segmented HP

• Particulars: Propelled to a modest 710 fps, what the CCI Quiet-22 copper-plated 40-grain segmented hollow-point bullet lacks in energy—45 ft.-lbs.—it makes up for in terminal performance. During penetration, the projectile breaks into three pieces to increase damage to vital organs and structures. MSRP: $5.93 per 50 rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: From the 16 ½-inch barrel of the 10/22, Quiet-22 Subsonic HP ammunition averaged a modest 664 fps—little wonder why it didn’t cycle in the semi-automatic rifle. Nonetheless, it was incredibly quiet—the least report of any tested—and acceptably accurate. For 25 shots, it had a mean of 1.30 inches. Concerning terminal performance, the Segmented HP created a large initial cavity before splitting into three pieces, each of which penetrated deeply. It’s a devastating design, and the sound it produces when striking is equally eye opening.

• Advantages: Remarkable terminal performance, reduced risk of ricochet and over penetration, copper-plated, good accuracy

• Drawbacks: Won’t cycle most semi-automatic actions

5. CCI Suppressor 22 LR

• Particulars: Designed for flawless functioning in semi-automatic rifles, CCI’s Suppressor 22 LR propels a non-plated, 45-grain lead hollow-point bullet to 970 fps. Energy is 94 ft.-lbs. MSRP: $5.12 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: Despite propelling the heaviest bullet in the test, CCI’s Suppressor 22 LR load still averaged 931 fps, and its perceived report was the second quietest. As for accuracy, it was the only real competitor for the ELEY Hollow load; its mean was a respectable 1.17 inches. The 10/22 cycled without issue when loaded with Suppressor 22 LR. Moreover, the heavy bullet created a sizable cavity in the clay before exiting. This load has a lot going for it.

• Advantages: Excellent terminal performance, modest cost, quiet, reliable cycling, good accuracy

• Drawbacks: None

6. RWS Subsonic HP

• Particulars: Manufactured in Germany, RWS’ Subsonic HP load has a traditional-style 40-grain lead hollow-point bullet travelling 1033 fps, for 95 ft.-lbs. of energy. MSRP: $6.99 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: With an average velocity of 977 fps, RWS Subsonic HP was middle-ground, and so too was its report. Accuracy wise, the round had a mean of 1.25 inches—not too bad. Cycling, however, was unreliable. While lacking in functioning, it was extraordinary with regards to terminal performance; in fact, this round produced the largest wound channel of all tested. Quarry won’t travel far (if not stopped outright).

• Advantages: Impressive terminal performance (largest cavity), mild report

• Drawbacks: costly, wax coating easily gets on hands, unreliable functioning in semi-automatic rifles

If you’re not using subsonic loads, you’re really missing out. Go ahead and give some of these loads a try when hunting small game, and if you’re like me, you’re likely to stick with them.

Fly fishing isn’t just fun to do- it’s fun to read about! There are many books about fly fishing out there. Some are narratives, while others are essential how-to guides that can help you get started, learn new skills, or troubleshoot mistakes. Here’s our list of the fly fishing books you need in your home library. We also have included links for where you can buy, rent, or download these books.

How-To Fly Fishing Books

These books provide guidance, instruction, and ideas for the modern fly fisher. Some of them are for general fly fishing; others are more technical or specialized. However you want to improve your fly fishing skills, there’s a guidebook out there for you.

The Essence of Flycasting by Mel Krieger

This classic fly fishing instructional text is one of the best books for learning the ins and outs of the sport. The Essence of Flycasting shows you in photographs and diagrams exactly how to perform the intricate movements needed to create the perfect cast.

Book Information:

• Length: 144 pages
• Year Published: 2001
• Buy on Amazon: The Essence of Flycasting

The Orvis Fly-Fishing Guide, Revised by Tom Rosenbauer

As a company, Orvis knows fly fishing better than almost anybody else. Their fly fishing guide is no exception to this rule. The author has been tying flies commercially since he was fourteen, and his four decades of fly fishing experience are distilled in these pages. A must have for any fly fishing enthusiast.

Book Information:

• Length: 408 pages
• Year Published: 2017
• Buy on Amazon: The Orvis Fly-Fishing Guide – Revised

The Orvis Guide To Beginning Fly Fishing: 101 Tips for the Absolute Beginner by Tom Rosenbauer

If the instructions in The Orvis Fly-Fishing Guide are overwhelming, this book will get you started. The advanced fly fisher probably knows everything in these pages, but everybody has to start somewhere. This book is ideal for beginners at any stage- whether you’ve learned a couple of casts or haven’t even bought your first rod and reel yet, this guide is practical and easy to understand.

Book Information:

• Length: 208 pages
• Year Published: 2009
• Buy on Amazon: The Orvis Guide to Beginning Fly Fishing

The Little Red Book of Fly Fishing by Kirk Deeter and Charlie Meyers

The Little Red Book of Fly Fishing is essentially a pocket guide to the sport of fly fishing, written by two veteran anglers who came together to demystify their passion. Featuring 240 tips that don’t require any advanced physics lessons or innate understanding of how fish think, this is a straightforward guide to the basics of fly fishing.

Book Information:

• Length: 224 pages
• Year Published: 2010
• Buy on Amazon: The Little Red Book of Fly Fishing

Tactical Fly Fishing: Lessons Learned from Competition for All Anglers by Devin Olsen

Most of us will never be professional fly fishers, but that doesn’t mean we can’t learn a lot from the pros. Devin Olsen is a repeat medalist in global fly fishing competitions, and his techniques for winning are explained in this volume. He does a good job of taking what he knows and applying it to everyday situations, allowing anyone to fish more successfully on rivers, small streams, and still waters.

Book Information:

• Length: 224 pages
• Year Published: 2019
• Buy on Amazon: Tactical Fly Fishing – Lessons Learned from Competition for All Anglers

Fly-Fishing Advice from an Old-Timer: A Practical Guide to the Sport and its Language by Ed Quigley

Take some advice from a veteran of the sport and sit down with Ed Quigley’s book on fly fishing. Quigley’s straightforward explanation of the basics and detailed discussions of advanced topics are easy to understand, and his ingenious tips and compelling anecdotes from his own years of experience fly fishing streams from Labrador to Costa Rica and beyond make the book very enjoyable.

Book Information:

• Length: 352 pages
• Year Published: 2014
• Buy on Amazon: Fly-Fishing Advice from an Old-Timer – A Practical Guide to the Sport and Its Language

A Guide’s Guide to Fly-Fishing Mistakes: Common Problems and How To Correct Them by Sara Low

As a licensed fly fishing guide, Sara Low has seen it all. If it can go wrong on the water, she’s seen it- and has some good ideas about how to correct these problems. This book offers solutions for fly fishers on many topics, including approaching fish, fly selection, proper fly presentation, consistent and accurate casting, and techniques for hooking and landing of fish, as well as pointers for fishing in spring, summer, fall, and winter. This isn’t a book you’d typically sit down with and read cover to cover (although you can do that if you want); instead, it’s the book you pull out when you have a problem you want to fix. It’s an invaluable guide for any angler who wants to up their game.

Book Information:

• Length: 224 pages
• Year Published: 2016
• Buy on Amazon: A Guide’s Guide to Fly-Fishing Mistakes – Common Problems and How to Correct Them

Basic Fly Tying: All the Skills and Tools You Need to Get Started by John Rounds

Fly tying is one of many challenging aspects of fly fishing, and this book is a great introduction to it. It features photographs and illustrated diagrams to help you get the knack of the basic fly components. It illustrates every phase of the tying process, from clamping the hook in the vise to executing the final whip finish, and everything in between. You’ll learn seven of the most effective and foundational patterns for nymphs, streamers, and dry flies.

Book Information:

• Length: 90 pages
• Year Published: 2002
• Buy on Amazon: Basic Fly Tying – All the Skills and Tools You Need to Get Started

Nonfiction Fly Fishing Books

The history and culture of fly fishing is a massive part of the sport’s development. Participating in it is part of the fun, too! The following books all have something to say about what it means to be a fly fisher. Whether they’re personal stories, histories, biographies, or anything else, everything in the following books will help you understand the sport we all love.

The History of Fly-Fishing in Fifty Flies by Ian Whitelaw

The History of Fly-Fishing in Fifty Flies recounts the history of a sport that dates back 2,000 years, focusing on milestone flies from the first feathered hook to contemporary patterns using cutting-edge materials. While it might seem impossible to choose only 50 flies among the countless fly patterns dating back two millennia, these flies represent the development of the very sport itself. They chart the spread from its modern origins on the chalk streams of England and Scottish rivers to every country in the world. Filled with profiles of the key people involved, tying tips, photographs and illustrations of the flies, The History of Fly-Fishing in Fifty Flies is a fascinating look at the history of this fascinating sport.

Book Information:

• Length: 224 pages
• Year Published: 2015
• Buy on Amazon: The History of Fly-Fishing in Fifty Flies

The Unreasonable Virtue of Fly Fishing by Mark Kurlansky

Like all of Mark Kurlansky’s books, The Unreasonable Virtue of Fly Fishing is a deep dive into a subject the author finds fascinating. Kurlanksy’s observations aren’t just about the fly fishers, but about the fish themselves. He is deeply in love with the complexities of the sport and the battle between fish and fishermen, and his book is a combination of love letter and sport history. A very fun read!

Book Information:

• Length: 304 pages
• Year Published: 2021
• Buy on Amazon: The Unreasonable Virtue of Fly Fishing

Trout: An Illustrated History by James Prosek

If you want to catch a trout, you need to know as much as you can about it- how it looks, where it eats, what part of the water it likes, and much more about its behavior and evolutionary history. Prosek’s lavishly illustrated book features original watercolors alongside a fascinating natural history of the fish themselves.

Book Information:

• Length: 168 pages
• Year Published: 1996
• Buy on Amazon: Trout – An Illustrated History

Dumb Luck and the Kindess of Strangers by John Gierach

We recommend any and all of John Gierach’s fly fishing books, but we picked this one because it’s very approachable and is a great example of his prose. Fifteen books and countless articles and columns have made John Gierach probably the most prominent fishing writer in America, and his books encompass his love of the sport and the people who practice it.

Book Information:

• Length: 256 pages
• Year Published: 2020
• Buy on Amazon: Dumb Luck and the Kindness of Strangers

The Longest Silence: A Life in Fishing by Thomas McGuane

This collection of 40 essays shows what dedication to a sport reveals about life. Both funny and reverent at the same time, each piece shares McGuane’s deep experience of wildlife and the outdoors and love for the sport he pursues. The book takes you around the world, from Florida tarpon to Icelandic salmon, and provides you with an intimate look at many varied lives who all share one thing: a love of fly fishing.

Book Information:

• Length: 384 pages
• Year Published: 2019 (most recent edition)
• Buy on Amazon: The Longest Silence

The Optimist: A Case for the Fly Fishing Life by David Coggins

There’s plenty of books about fly fishing and being a fly fisher, but fewer exist about the philosophy of fly fishing. This is one of those: an argument for the skills and sensibilities of fly anglers around the world. It’s a meditation on how fishing teaches focus, inner stillness, and a connection to the natural world, all while being couched in entertaining fishing stories. It shares a great perspective on how fly fishing and the attitudes it requires really can improve your life- but if you’re a fly fisher, you probably knew that already.

Book Information:

• Length: 256 pages
• Year Published: 2021
• Buy on Amazon: The Optimist – A Case for the Fly Fishing Life

Fly-Fishing the 41st by James Prosek

Fly fishing is practiced around the world. In Prosek’s case, this is literal. Fly-Fishing the 41st chronicles his adventures fishing around the 41st parallel- the same latitude, all the way from Connecticut to Mongolia, with stops in Greece, Japan, Kyrgyzstan, and many other exotic fishing locales. It’s a very interesting look at lesser-known fly-fishing destinations and the people who live there.

Book Information:

• Length: 336 pages
• Year Published: 2004
• Buy on Amazon: Fly-Fishing the 41st

Fly Fishing Novels and Fiction

Fly fishing is a great backdrop for fictional stories- it’s a wonderful way to let characters self-reflect, learn about themselves, and even grow a little bit. When you sit down with any of these tales, you’ll find yourself wishing that you could fish these fictional locales!

The River Why by David James Duncan

One of the classics of the unofficial fly fishing book canon, The River Why has been popular since its publication in 1983. The novel is a coming-of-age comedy about love, nature, and the quest for self-discovery, set in the Pacific Northwest and featuring one man’s quest for steelhead salmon. The story’s protagonist, Gus Orviston, seeks function in a remote cabin away from his dysfunctional family. For Gus, fly fishing isn’t just a physical experience; it’s a spiritual one as well, as his quest for self-knowledge tests him with unpredictable experiences.

Book Information:

• Length: 418 pages
• Year Published: 1983 (most recent edition 2013)
• Buy on Amazon: The River Why

A River Runs Through It and Other Stories by Norman Maclean

Perhaps the best-known fly fishing story in history, A River Runs Through It is just as exciting a novella as it is a film. Maclean’s passion for fly-fishing, the natural world, and the interplay of life and art, created a classic of the American West. This new edition, with a foreword by Robert Redford, will introduce a fresh audience to Maclean’s beautiful prose and understated emotional insights.

Book Information:

• Length: 262 pages
• Year Published: 2017 (this edition)
• Buy on Amazon: A River Runs through It and Other Stories

Hemingway on Fishing by Ernest Hemingway, edited by Nick Lyons

It shouldn’t come as a surprise that the author of The Old Man and the Sea was a passionate angler himself. From his Michigan childhood to his twilight years in Florida, Hemingway was never far from a river or ocean. Fly fishing was a constant feature of his life, and this book collects his short stories and articles that revolve around the pursuit of fulfillment on the open water.

Book Information:

• Length: 272 pages
• Year Published: 2002
• Buy on Amazon: Hemingway on Fishing

The Laughing Trout: A Novel of Fly Fishing in A Mad, Mad World of Love and Pandemonium by Jim Ure

If you’ve ever been on a group fishing trip, you know the mayhem and hilarity that often follow. This story is the story of a professional fishing guide who tricks his annoying game warden cousin- and by extension, most of the world. He watches as his little corner of the river descends into bedlam- but coming clean might mean wrecking his best chance at finding true love. What’s a fly fisher to do when the world descends on his river in search of a fish that doesn’t exist? In this case, he just has to laugh about it.

Book Information:

• Length: 215 pages
• Year Published: 2013
• Buy on Amazon: The Laughing Trout

The Reel Sisters by Michelle Cummings

The Reel Sisters is the story of five women who would otherwise never be friends, were it not for their devotion to fly fishing. It’s a powerful novel about how anyone, no matter who they are or where they come from, can find themselves through fly fishing and learn a little bit more about how they work in the world each time they step into the river.

Book Information:

• Length: 412 pages
• Year Published: 2017
• Buy on Amazon: The Reel Sisters

Travers Corners: Classic Stories about Fly Fishing and a Small Montana Town by Scott Waldie

In the same spirit as Garrison Keillor’s A Prairie Home Companion, Scott Waldie’s Travers Corners takes you to a rural town where “nothing much has happened since Herbert Hoover stopped for gas.” What Travers Corners lacks in modern media and conveniences, it makes up for with the quality of the local fishing. You’ll fall in love with the cast of characters in this quirky little community- it’s just a shame they’re all fictional!

Book Information:

• Length: 151 pages
• Year Published: 2014
• Buy on Amazon: Travers Corners – Classic Stories about Fly Fishing and a Small Montana Town

Conclusion

This list is never complete. New content and books are coming out every year. If you’d like to see new additions to this list, contact us with your thoughts.

Anyone interested increasing their self reliance, going off-grid, or simply providing for their family when times get tough should be heavily focused on creating a productive and sustainable food source. The foundational building block for this is a survival garden.

Providing enough food to sustain your family can seem like a daunting proposition that would require several acres of land. But with a little planning and consideration, you can create a productive garden that will serve you and your family well all year long.

What is a Survival Garden?

The simplest explanation would be that it is a garden capable of growing the food you and your family need to survive (or at least a large portion of it) until the next growing season.

This may seem straightforward, but when you break it down and see how many calories, vitamins, and minerals you need to replace daily to stay healthy, you realize there has to be some serious planning and consideration put into it.

Survival gardening has a critical urgency about it, and doesn’t have to be pretty.

If you’ve seen the movie “The Martian”, you can use the example of Mark Watney, who formulates a plan to survive the harsh climate of Mars by potato farming in his own feces. Is it going to make the cover of Better Homes and Gardens? No. Did it keep him alive? Yes.

When you consider how important food security is to your family, there is no reason not to do everything in your power to make the most effective survival garden possible.

In addition to keeping you alive, there are a few other reasons why having your own garden is beneficial:

• Health Benefits: Starting a garden for the resulting health benefits alone is worth it. Do you know what most people do when they have access to fresh, free produce? They eat tons more of it! Even if you are relatively careful with what you eat, increasing your produce consumption will always benefit you.
• The Money: Eating your own produce can save you some significant coin. And to top it off, you could also take it to the very same markets where you used to spend your money and make some money. You probably will not get rich, but you’ll certainly be able to offset some costs.
• Help Feed People in Need: In times where you’re not depending on every calorie from your survival garden to feed your family, another option is to donate the surplus to a local food bank or family in need. The extra potatoes and carrots you are tired of seeing in the cellar could be the reason someone’s kid has a little more to eat.

Survival Garden Layout Examples

If you are trying to provide a chunk of your family’s calories from the homestead, then you need to be really smart about your survival garden layout.

So what do survival gardens look like? Well, that question has a lot of answers. There are many different types of gardens, each with their own corresponding perks and benefits.

It is perfectly acceptable to use a pre-established clearly defined archetype, or you could take your inspiration from several styles and create something unique to your situation and property.

Here are some terrific and time-tested survival garden layouts to help get your wheels spinning:

1. Square Foot Gardening

Square foot gardening was originally devised as a way to teach growing capabilities and capacities to people in underserved areas. They can be made in nearly any size or configuration.

There are some solid reasons you might choose to follow a square foot gardening format. The planting guidelines prevent crowding while helping to maximize the space available and eliminate the wasted space of row planting. Similar plants are grown in non-linear configurations as they would in the wild so that they are not crowded out and can reach optimal size.

This same aim of efficient use of space also applies to how the garden is physically built. It is a raised bed that is visually divided by materials like wooden dowels, string, or twine tacked into a square-foot grid. This allows the cultivation of personal amounts of produce, in small areas, with little need to travel.

As they are raised beds, less bending is needed, so they are less work to maintain.

2. Victory Gardens

The victory garden is seeing a comeback in these uncertain and turbulent times. While it started as a way to reduce reliance on staples in order to free up rations during the second world war, it is once again enjoying a resurgence in popularity.

Victory gardens are designed to provide most of what a family of two to four people will need for much, if not all, of the year. With a high reliance on beans, drying and preservation will be crucial for maximizing the usefulness of the garden.

3. Keyhole Gardens

Keyhole gardens are perfect for hot and particularly dry climates. They consist of a wide round garden that is several feet deep and has a small radial arc of material removed.

With this material removed, the gardener can stand in the center of the garden, with the produce at approximately waist height. All areas of the garden can be reached easily by the gardener with very little strain on the back.

Since they are so deep, a key benefit of constructing keyhole gardens is their resistance to drought. Cardboard layered into the soil also helps to prevent water loss through evaporation. The center is preferred to be a compost bin with a base of rock at least the size of gravel, to facilitate drainage. As the material in the bin composts and is watered into the surrounding soil, it helps feed the crops in the garden.

Keyhole gardens do not make especially efficient use of space, since they are often quite a bit deeper than simple raised beds, but they do offer an extremely rich substrate to grow in.

Since they are fed by the compost, as well as being primarily watered from there, keyhole gardens are perfect for root vegetables like carrots, radishes, and beets, and leafy vegetables like spinach, lettuce, chard, and herbs.

4. The Permaculture Food Forest

One of the hallmarks of a permaculture style “food forest” is that it’s typically not in 1 specific “garden.” Rather, the plants and trees making up a food forest are strategically scattered throughout an area, to take advantage of microclimates, optimal growing conditions, and companion plantings as much as possible.

If you have a larger area and are looking to build an extremely diverse and naturally productive garden, creating a food forest modeled on permaculture principles might be the perfect option.

The benefits of permaculture systems are myriad. They not only focus on boosting biodiversity across the board, they also promote function stacking.

For example, a portion of the food forest may utilize clover as part of the ground cover. Clover could “stack functions” by not only preventing weeds, but also acting as a nitrogen-fixer, increasing the available nitrogen for neighboring plants. A 3rd function of a clover ground cover could be that it’s a source of pollen for important pollinators like bees and butterflies. This mentality will extend to many aspects of gardening and is the foundation for the entire permaculture model.

5. The Backyard Homestead Layout

The concept of a “homestead” is one that feels bigger than just a vegetable garden. Instead, a homestead typically incorporates fruit trees, perennial plants like berries, animals like chickens and goats, honey bees, or any number of other things. Still, at its core, the goal of a homestead is in line with survival gardening-support and sustain the lives of the people living there.

The Backyard Homestead Book is a popular and info-packed resource for planning maximum food production, even on postage-stamp-sized lots in the city and suburbs. It has a comprehensive walk-through of all the pertinent info you need to begin your journey towards self-sufficiency and self-reliance.

It covers the basics like garden design and crops to plant, but then it takes things a step further, by covering material on food preservation, highlighting methods like pickling, canning, even drying, and dehydration. This gem will help you through the entire food production process, from seed to snack.

6. Self Sufficient Backyard Layout

This is one of those resources that you can keep on your bookshelf, and every time you read it you seem to find something new and useful in it.

It is written by a couple that would be considered modern-day pioneers, living a lifestyle that includes growing their own food all year, collecting water, producing natural remedies from foraged plants, and using renewable energy.

It is a great book for anyone looking to begin the transition to a more self-sufficient lifestyle, or anyone wanting to learn how to effectively use just a quarter acre to produce food and energy for their own family.

What should I grow in my survival garden?

That is a very open-ended question, but we can start to narrow it down by your growing zone and garden location. It is important to have a large variety of nutrient-dense vegetables, and ideally ones that can also be stored in some long term fashion, whether it is by canning, drying and dehydrating, pickling, or cellar storage.

Proteins & Fats

You will need plenty of protein and fats in your diet. Protein is needed to build and maintain muscle mass and fats are needed as a source of energy.

• Nut trees: Hazelnuts, hickory nuts, walnuts, pecans, chestnuts, and so many others. The options for nut trees that will grow in the US is impressive. Nuts can provide a source for healthy unsaturated fats, as well as omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, and are full of vitamins and minerals.
• Chickens: While not a vegetable, you certainly can raise chickens in your garden area. You will need to take some infrastructure precautions to ensure they do not eat your plants, but letting them free range in the area will keep your gardens largely bug free, and cut down or eliminate the need for separate feeding.
• Beans: An important source of vegetarian protein, beans and other legumes also provide ample fiber and a robust dose of antioxidants. Even if you are growing chickens or other livestock for meat, beans will be a vital source of supplemental off-season protein.

Carbs

Carbohydrates are forms of sugars that occur in starchy or fibrous foods. They are an energy source and are broken down and metabolized into either long-term or short-term energy.

• Potatoes: Potatoes are a fantastic and long-storing carbohydrate. It is an easily grown root vegetable that stores well and can be used in countless ways. A smart planting of potato slips can contribute hundreds of pounds of potatoes for your stores.

• Corn: A relatively fast-growing cereal grain, corn is very versatile and can be used and stored in many ways. With minimal processing, it can also be converted to feed, flour, alcohol and fuel.

• Beans: You thought we ran through all the benefits of beans? Nope! Beans will also fill a slot for complex cards, giving you a source for the long term, all-day energy you are going to need to keep your homestead running.

• Squash: A plant that is incredibly nutritious and versatile, squash is another vegetable that can store easily, in its native state, for long periods. The meat is generally eaten roasted or steamed.

• Peas: Peas are a good source of starches, like potatoes, they are great thickeners. They are high in fiber, protein, and vitamins A, B6, C, and K.

Vitamins and Micronutrients

Vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients help your body to function by providing essential components to support bodily processes.

• Chard: A leafy green that is great in salads, and adds a splash of color. A common ingredient in healthy diets, both the leaves and the stalks can be eaten.

• Spinach: A super healthy leafy green. Loaded with antioxidants and nutrients, and a great source of iron.

• Garlic: Closely related to onions, garlic is in the same family as leeks, shallots, and chives. Garlic is a long-standing favorite and is used to season cuisines the world over.

• Broccoli: The tiny trees that are the bane of every child’s dinner plate. One of the most versatile plants, can be eaten raw or cooked, and the leaves, stalk, and flowering head can all be eaten. Growing broccoli provides a great return on investment.

• Cauliflower: Another relative of the mustard plant, cauliflower often resembles cheese curd but has a texture that couldn’t be more different.

• Kale: A close relative of cabbage, kale is packed with nutrients and vitamins. Care should be exercised not to eat kale to an excess, however, as it contains a compound that can interfere with thyroid hormone synthesis.

• Cabbage: Is a leafy green that gives a tremendous amount of leaves on each densely packed head. They can grow very large and can be stored for long periods and used as needed, like potatoes and other staples. A great source of vitamins K and C, along with significant dietary fiber.

Medicinals

You may want to consider adding a section in your garden to contain your medicinal plants. These are plants that can be used to treat common ailments like headaches, inflammation, and pain. Often made into teas, salves, or pastes. Common medicinal plants you may want to consider include:

• Calendula: known to be an antifungal, antiseptic, healer of wounds.
• Cilantro: Helps digestion, possibly linked to heavy metal removal from the body.
• Lemon Balm: Relaxing effects with possible antiviral properties.
• Peppermint: Helps with digestion if brewed in tea, and soothes aches when applied topically.
• Rosemary: Increases oxygen to the brain, a great alternative to caffeine.
• Mullein: Can help heal respiratory infections.

How much space do I need to grow it all in?

That is probably the best part about a survival garden-there is no one single way to do it that will be best. Do what is right for you and your circumstances. This means it is extremely easy to adapt this information to your needs. From tiny urban gardens to acres of country land, there is something for everyone.

Urban gardens are growing in popularity and are becoming more widely permitted. There is a push in many urban centers for green rooftops to reduce HVAC load and provide additional food for building residents.

Agriscaping is transforming common landscapes into productive agricultural spaces. This can look like neighborhood food forests or fruit and nut trees alongside the street in place of ornamentals. Many neighborhoods have begun creating spaces that function as both food forests and community gardening space.

All that said however, one of the early contributors to SCP Survival shared the following recommendation from her grandma who was a serious gardener at the turn of the century:

Grandma Carrie’s Rule of Thumb (how big does my garden need to be?)

Grandma Carrie grew and preserved everything that her family ate in the late 1880’s and early 1900’s short of wheat, sugar, salt and spices. Her garden was well over a quarter acre. And she had a rule of thumb – One quart per person, per day.

Since she was feeding ten people she would need to can 3,650 quarts of fruits and vegetables. Add to that the crops that went into the root cellar, some crops were dried and stored in burlap bags, milk and eggs were gathered year ‘round, animals were butchered as needed and the meat was stored in crocks.

To supply each member of the family with their “quart a day” you should plan approximately 1,000 to 2,500 square feet of garden space for each person. This amount depends on soil fertility, the crops you choose to grow, methods of cultivation, and the length of your growing season. Other food sources like fruit trees and livestock also play a huge part in the amount of vegetables you need.

A 2,000 square foot garden would be a 40 foot by 50 foot section of your property. This can be a pretty significant undertaking especially if you have no experience gardening. Crops such as squash and cucumbers require significantly more space than spinach, Swiss chard, carrots, onions and beets. Peas, tomatoes and some beans do best with a fence, cage or pole to grow UP on which decreases the square feet necessary.

Here are some rough estimates on space to yield for feeding four people for one year:

*Estimate based on ½ whole and ½ sauce

This chart would be 2,018 square feet of growing space without any paths in between them. I have given the yield in quarts but to have a better idea if this would suit your family, you will probably want to consider pints (or twice as many jars half the size). For example, one pint of beets would probably be adequate for a meal for four people, a 100 foot row will yield around 48 pints which would provide enough beets for one meal a week for a year.

This chart provides 657 quarts plus potatoes, about half of Grandma Carrie’s rule of thumb.

What is the best location for my survival garden?

You will want to make sure you evaluate all possibilities before deciding where to put your garden. Make sure you consider the exposure to the sun, water, soil, and how easy it will be for you to access it as often as you will need to.

Most people think about the first few, but not everyone considers access. The last thing you want to do is put a big garden plot in what you think is a perfect place, only to have to lug all your gardening equipment or any tools you need, to a garden that is now quite inconvenient to get to.

When considering your garden’s placement, you will naturally have to consider the sun and water placement. If you live in the northern hemisphere, you will want to make sure your garden is south of your house, or far enough north of your house that it will not lie in its shadow. Use this same logic when plating. When possible plant so that the taller crops, like corn, on the north end of the garden bed, so that they do not cast a shadow over the other plants.

One of the principles of permaculture is the zones of use. The mindset being that you do not want to expend excess energy to get to things you use all the time, and things that are largely self-managing should be the farthest away. It also simplifies care and harvesting. The zones of use are:

1. Zone 1 is the most visited area or areas. This zone will have things that either need daily attention or that you use daily. Examples of things to grow in zone 1 are seedlings, salad components, cooking herbs, or anything that needs daily water, like a lemon tree. Believe it or not, animals are ideally sited in Zone 1.
2. Zone 2 are things that still need attention, but not specifically daily. If your particular setup allows for it, zone 2 is irrigated. Zone 2 is also mulched. Examples of zone 2 plants would be smaller fruiting trees and trellised fruit vines, bramble berries like blackberries, raspberries, and blueberries. This is also the zone that contains windbreaks, ponds, and barrier hedges. Plants that are only harvested once or twice per season belong here like potatoes and corn.
3. Zone 3 is semi-managed. An example of zone 3 plants would be large and mature fruit and nut trees. It is not mulched, nor visited on any regular basis.
4. Zone 4 is a minimally managed area for foraging wild foods and growing timber.
5. Zone 5 is completely and entirely unmanaged. All pure native plants and wildlife.

Keep in mind what you will eventually be planting, and be sure to plant companions together when possible. The main idea of companion planting is that you plant different crops together, they help sustain each other and ensure you have a strong and fruitful harvest.

Companions can be used for pest deterrents, balancing out nutrients, and attracting pollinators. For instance:

• Tomatoes work very well with beans, chives, and oregano, but not with corn, dill, and potatoes.
• If you want a successful cucumber and squash harvest, plant corn, beans, or radishes with them.
• If you have pine trees on your property, be careful not to place your garden where the shed needles fall, since they make the soil very acidic.

For more on companion planting, check out this comprehensive guide.

Knowing Your Soil is Crucial

The quality of your soil is the imperative. Much more needs to be done to prepare a garden space than simply digging up the lawn. “Friability”, or easy to crumble is normally the first obstacle to overcome. Grasses can grow in clay – or cracks in asphalt for that matter but vegetables need lose, crumbly, loamy soil. Amendments need to be made in the way of compost, perhaps sand and possibly nutrients to alter the pH level.

How do you intend to water your garden? Tomatoes for example, need to be soaked 6-8 inches deep every 5-10 days depending on the heat and amount of rain you have. If the grid is down, is your water down? If you are collecting water in a rain barrel, do you intend to drip irrigate or hand water? Is one barrel enough? Do you have all the materials on hand now?

Want Some Extra Credit? Here Are Some Gardening “Force Multipliers”

The following are tools or techniques used to be more effective at reaching your objective of producing enough food to survive. They help you get the most out of your garden by helping to create ideal conditions, one way or another, for your crops.

Greenhouse

A greenhouse is one of the common things that people think of when picturing a large garden set up. A greenhouse is a large open building that is largely transparent or translucent, allowing in sunlight, but also sealed against the outside elements.

Utilizing a large amount of solar gain, greenhouses are able to trap solar energy in the form of heat, and can often be used to extend the growing season.

Greenhouses can be used to grow later into the year, in order to gain an extra harvest or two, and also to begin earlier each year, by providing a warm place to germinate seeds and give plants a head start before transplanting to the soil once the threat of frost has passed.

Cold Frames

Cold frames use the same principles of trapping solar energy as greenhouses but on a much smaller scale. Cold frames are made from a wooden box similar to a raised bed, frequently angled toward the south. They will usually have a windowed lid, often made from an upcycled home window that is attached to the top with a hinge so that it can tilt open for easy access to the contents.

Cold frames are frequently used in the same manner as full-size greenhouses, to either continue growing past the fall frost dates or to gain an early start by germinating seeds and plant starts before they would normally be able to be put in the ground.

Row Covers

Row covers are also known as low tunnels. A crucial force multiplier for those who utilize planting rows for their crops, row covers can protect from freezing temperatures, wind, and pests.

They are essentially tiny hoop houses that run the length of the planting rows. They are very low to the ground and often only allow around 1-2 feet of clearance for the plants they cover, and as such are only suitable for very young plants or those that grow close to the ground like root vegetables and greens. They help keep the soil in the row warm for early season starts, and for late-season harvests.

Chickens or livestock

Introducing chickens or other small livestock to your survival garden can have several benefits. Not only will they create manure that will be essential to your composting and fertilizing capabilities, but they also can help reduce pests and insects.

People do not give chickens enough credit, they are amazing little omnivores. They eat just about any organic matter you allow them to, but they will also meet you halfway on the cleanup, tilling most of their waste directly into the soil. You do need to keep an eye on them, and make sure that they aren’t sick. If so, there are a handful of DIY chicken doctoring things you can do own your own.

Guinea fowl are another valuable addition, frequently eating so many nuisance insects like ticks, that they will not need any supplemental feeding. Using livestock in conjunction with a rotating pasture system will allow you to always have perfectly fertilized and productive soil ready for planting, while your livestock always has fresh ground to work.

Composting

Generating your own compost is an incredibly valuable process for anyone seeking to grow large amounts of high-quality produce.

Composting is the breaking down of common solid organic matter by aerobic bacteria. It is used to recycle organic material into nutrient-rich material called compost that is similar to humus. It is one of the best soil amendments and can be a valuable fertilizer for self-sustaining gardeners.

Vermicomposting

Similar to composting, the goal of vermicomposting is to create a nutrient dense growing medium from discarded organic materials. The basic process is the same, the organic matter that would normally be discarded is added to the compost pile, decomposed aerobically, and turned into a usable highly fertile soil material.

The difference is that in normal composting the main agent breaking down the matter is aerobic bacteria and other organisms, and with vermicomposting that process is accelerated through the use of earthworms to break down the material faster and more thoroughly than without.

Rainwater harvesting

One of the most valuable resources for gardeners, water, literally falls from the sky. With a little preparation and sweat equity, a rain catchment system can quickly and easily be implemented, allowing the storage of large quantities of water for later use.

Rainwater harvesting is often done with a minimum of special equipment, generally requiring little more than a roof, a gutter with a downspout, and a rain barrel or water tank. Provided measures are taken to discard the water contained in the “first flush” which will contain debris and contaminants that should be allowed to wash away before collection begins, rainwater can easily be made potable.

Earthworks and Landforms

A very effective method of large scale gardening and permaculture resource management is to create earthworks to help control water flow and erosion. These methods can include:

Ditches

Ditches are essentially a trenched drainage device. Ditches are going to be fairly deep and narrow, allowing an easy way to direct high volumes of water that will also be fast-moving.

A ditch will often be used to prevent a surge of water volume from eroding other portions of the gardening or crop areas. For example, ditches may be utilized to funnel water runoff from a large rainstorm away from delicate beds of greens or herbs, and directed to a swale where it can be spread out over a larger area, slowed down, and allowing the water to settle and soak in.

Swales

Swales are large, open, gentle depressions that follow the contour of the land, allowing stormwater runoff a place to slow down and spread out over a larger area, eventually facilitating settling and absorption.

They are broad and shallow and are only slightly depressed when compared to the surrounding area. Swales are perfect for filtering runoff, immobilizing contaminants, pollutants, and particulates by allowing them to settle and be filtered by the surrounding soil.

Hugelkultur

Often thought of as the perfect companion to swales, the hugelkultur or more simply “hugel”, is a hill or a mound for growing, that is built on a foundation of a pile of felled trees or rotten wood. It is ultra-low maintenance and drought-resistant garden and earthworks feature that will produce a fertile mound of growing medium that only gets more productive over the years as the wood continues to rot and release nutrients into the soil around it.

While it takes a good bit of effort to physically construct the hugel, it will compound the benefits it offers over the years. For the first several years after its creation, the aerobic decomposition will have an exothermic effect on the soil, giving you a longer growing season.

In the years following that, the wood will begin to shrink and will create voids that allow a self tilling effect to take place. The rotting wood will also hold water like a sponge, retaining large amounts of water that are automatically released into the surrounding soil, combating dry conditions, and reducing or eliminating the need for separate irrigation.

The main thing to remember with hugels is to use wood in the core that will rot and decay. Do not use any rot-resistant or allelopathic woods like cedar, black walnut, l7 or black locust. They will not rot, and will actually inhibit microbial growth, significantly reducing the desirable effects produced by the decomposition.

Preservation and Long Term Storage

While the short term goal with your garden is to feed yourself and your family, the long-term goal is to have a decent stockpile of survival foods. There are many methods that you can utilize that will allow you to save your harvest and to feed your family over a tough winter or in an emergency.

Root Cellars

One of the oldest long-term storage methods, root cellars work to preserve and store food by using the cool dampness of being underground to their advantage. Root cellars are nice and cool, but still above 32°. They are also humid which allows vegetables to retain their moisture and preventing them from turning rubbery. In addition to root vegetables, cellars are great for storing nuts, seeds, and even some fruits and vegetables.

Canning

Canning is a great way to save meats, stews, veggies, and jams for later use. With canning, you use mason jars to store and preserve your foods and either pressure or hot water method to seal them. The lids of the jar have a wax ring that seals to the rim of the jar. If left in a cool, dark place, home-canned items can be stored for a year or more.

Dehydration

Dehydration is a fantastic way to preserve your favorite fruits, vegetables, and even herbs and meats! Some items you will want to eat in the dried form such as apple chips, others you may want to rehydrate by soaking in hot water or adding to soups and stews.

Seed Saving

While most seeds you won’t be eating, saving your seeds is an easy way to get a jump on your garden for next year. Saving the seeds from fruits and vegetables that you grew this year allows you to cut down on your gardening costs in the future. Heirloom seed preservation is also important for genetic diversity and can be traded and sold.

Getting Started

There are many articles out there inferring that preppers should buy seeds packaged for long term storage so that when the shit hits the fan they can dig up part of the lawn and grow their own food. This is a woefullly misguided notion. Remember, the time to start learning is not when you are hungry.

Once you have taken all the factors into consideration and chosen a location, it is time to plan out your garden. Make a sketch on some graph paper of your garden, and get that seed catalog handy. If you need help planning it, the Farmers Almanac has a very easy to use garden planner.

Once your garden is prepared, your layout is decided, and your seeds have arrived, you probably want to get planting, but you might be wondering when is the best time to start. The good news is, every season has things that can be planted, whether you are in spring, summer, or fall, there are plants that should be going in the ground to get ready for the upcoming growing season.

You might think that because you weren’t ready until late August, you may have missed the summer season. And you would be right! But that’s alright, late-season brassicas do well, and fall is the perfect time to get some garlic and onions in the ground. The same goes for spring and summer, there is always something that needs to get in the ground soon in order to be ready for the upcoming season.

Winter is the perfect time of year to solidify next year’s garden plan. It is time to inventory the pantry to evaluate the most popular crops and adjust the garden space allotments accordingly. Heirloom seeds are inventoried, new seeds are ordered and indoor starts are planted.

Need An Easy Way To Start? Try the 3 Sisters

If you are eager to get started with an easy garden, you may want to try out a small plot with a “3 sisters garden”. This is a method that has been used for thousands of years to grow multiple crops in one place simultaneously, and is a perfect example of function stacking and utilizing natural architecture. This layout can also be adapted to nearly any type of garden.

You will plant beans (generally a pole bean), sweet corn, and squash. The rationale behind the companion plants here is that the corn provides a sturdy stalk for the beans to climb, while the squash leaves shade the soil, minimizes water loss, and prevents weeds, and the beans fix nitrogen in the soil for the corn and the squash to excel.