The AR-15 is one of the most popular rifle platforms of all time. It only stands to reason that its popularity would bleed over into the hunting world. It has, in a big way. According to a recent study by the National Shooting Sports Foundation, 27 percent of hunters surveyed have used a modern sporting rifle (MSR) in pursuit of game. Of those, 48 percent report having used a MSR within the past five years, illustrating a growth in the use of the platform among those hunters surveyed. Of those answering yes to the use of an MSR for hunting, nearly 60 percent state they have used that platform to hunt large game.

That popularity has spawned a number of larger caliber choices for AR-15 rifles. Bullet diameters ranging from 6.5mm all the way up to .450 are now mainstream. Some of the most popular include the .300 Blackout, the .450 Bushmaster, and the 6.5 Grendel. Rifles and ammo for all of these are readily available and they all do a great job on deer-sized game.

But what about the most popular caliber in the platform, the .223/5.56? With their adjustable stocks, light weight, and nearly non-existent recoil, AR-15s in the .223/5.56 caliber make the perfect gun for young or small-frame hunters. But is that caliber a legitimate choice for the deer hunter? Just a few short years ago, I would probably answer that question with a not really. Yea, the .223 would get the job done, particularly on smaller deer in the deep south, but there was just too much margin for error to make it a reliable deer cartridge.

But, all that has changed in recent years. Ammunition manufacturers, noting the increased popularity of AR rifles among hunters, have set about making the .223/5.56 a genuine deer cartridge. To make this happen, they have borrowed proven designs from other big game bullets and added innovative new features specific to the lightweight bullets found in the .223 to form a tough and reliable cartridge tailor made for deer hunting with the modern rifle platform.

Winchester Ammunition

Winchester’s foray into this market is the 64-grain Power-Max Bonded. According to Mike Stock, the center-fire product manager for Winchester, he loves the round.

Our .223 Remington 64-grain Power-Max Bonded really was created purely as a deer hunting bullet, Stock said. What makes a good deer bullet in .223 is very different than what makes a good deer bullet in larger calibers. In heavier bullets, I will always recommend a deer bullet to rapidly fragment which means a tapered jacket that is thin at the nose. However, in .223, we often max out at about 64 grains to achieve good accuracy in 1:12 bolt rifles so we have to put that weight to good use in order to get the penetration we need for deer. That means relatively thick jackets all the way to the nose and in the case of Power-Max Bonded, a protected point also helps with the delayed expansion. This all goes together for an accurate, controlled expansion bullet that can penetrate more than enough for use on deer.

Since 2005, Federal Ammunition has offered a bonded .223 bullet in their proven Fusion line as their go-to for medium game. That changed in 2015 with the introduction of their new Trophy Bonded Tip to their Premium Vital Shock line of hunting ammunition.

MODEL R-15 PREDATOR RIFLE

Federal’s J.J Reich says, The new Trophy Bonded Tip is based on our time-tested Trophy Bonded Bear Claw design. For decades, the Vital-Shock Trophy Bonded Tip has proven itself as one of the most effective cartridges available in many popular calibers. New in 2015, the .223 Rem is the newest caliber in the lineup. The bonded bullet retains more than 90 percent of its weight, penetrates deep, and shoots flat and accurately thanks to its high-ballistic coefficient. Polymer Tip, Long Boat Tail and Skiving all help that performance. The solid copper shank crushes bone, and exterior skiving on the nickel-plated bullet ensures optimum expansion at any range.

Both of these bullets have proven themselves numerous times in the field on white-tailed deer. These new premium bullets have changed how we look at the .223/5.56 as a deer hunting caliber. While shots should still be limited to ranges maxing out at around 100 yards (the small bullet just sheds too much energy beyond that range), hunters can now feel confident in taking their rifles afield during deer season.

Bonus reads: The Great Debate: Firearms Seasons During the Rut | 18 Great Gun Hunting States for Deer Hunters

Click here for more deer hunting articles and videos.

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Calling coyotes in the state of Oklahoma, a pair of dogs winded us and cut diagonally across the ravine. The duo stopped to look back at 200 yards, and I squeezed the trigger on my Savage 110 Predator. The yote disappeared into the grass and rolled down the hill.

I was happy with the accuracy and knockdown power of the Federal Premium Barnes TSX ammo. I had used it in the past, but since being discontinued in 2013, I forgot how deadly the bullet was on game.

The diminutive .223 barked again late in the evening when we ran across a sounder of hogs in the dry bed of a wetland. The tall grass provided brief glimpses of the swine, as they sauntered in and out of view like apparitions. My hunting partner and I lined up on the two largest pigs, which didn’t have a clue we were perched on a hill 230 yards away. Our elevated position allowed us to see into the grass where the pigs had been rooting. When the two mature hogs turned broadside at the same time, we squeezed the triggers. The hog I had in my scope dropped like a bag of concrete. It was dead on impact.

A hog is a stout critter and often requires serious knockdown power from a larger caliber rifle, but the .223 Rem. did just fine with the performance of the Barnes TSX. We repeated our performance the next evening when a large sounder of hogs appeared below us, wandering a creek bottom just before sunset. We knocked down three pigs and caused the rest to scramble in a matter of seconds.

Solid copper bullets are nothing new. Federal loads several varieties of copper bullets, including Trophy Copper and Power-Shok Copper. I’ve used them on everything from bears to elk and love the terminal performance the bullets provide.

The name says it all, as the TSX stands for Triple-Shock X. The TSX was introduced in 2003 and is Barnes’ most popular hunting bullet. Barnes claims, “The TSX has gained worldwide recognition as one of the deadliest, most dependable bullets you can buy. Try these all-copper bullets and realize the added benefits of improved accuracy, reduced barrel fouling and increased velocity.”

Instead of trying to describe why hunters should consider the TSX bullet, I asked Barnes engineers what makes the Triple-Shock X so popular, and its engineers said, “The Barnes TSX, TTSX and LRX bullets are all a monolithic design. They are manufactured using a solid copper slug. They are a controlled expansion projectile. This gives high weight retention due to the fact that there is not a core and jacket to separate. They have a cavity formed into the nose which allows rapid expansion upon impact when fluid enters the cavity. The ‘TSX’ grooves cut into the shank reduce bearing surface [pressure] and fouling. The grooves also increase accuracy. Proprietary design, tooling and manufacturing processes allow us to produce accurate and consistent projectiles. They are very popular among hunters because of their excellent terminal performance and accuracy. Being a controlled expansion bullet, we are able to ‘optimize’ the function window for a given cartridge and velocity range. This aids in superior terminal performance.”

From elk and moose to coyotes and hogs, the Barnes TSX works. The bullet stays intact to deliver maximum energy at any range. The consistent expansion of the bullet is what hunters will appreciate.

Federal Brings Back Fan FavoritesThe notion of using top-quality components to build superior cartridges started 42 years ago when Federal produced its Premium line of centerfire rifle ammunition. The Sierra MatchKing bullet was one of the first, grabbing the attention of hunters looking for optimal performance. No other company considered using another company’s bullets, but Barnes, Nosler, Sierra and Berger are but a few of the premium-class bullets loaded by Federal over the years to create a market demand for better performance. Does anyone remember the introduction of Trophy Bonded Bear Claw or Nosler Partition?

Over the years, there have been many variations of premium ammunition produced. Some were popular but discontinued in an attempt to bring something new to the market and keep up with demands like specialty cartridges for dangerous game, or long-range hunters. It has been over six years since Federal used the Barnes TSX bullet in its Premium line, but in 2019 it was brought back by popular demand. The offerings in the line from 2013 will be back in virtually the same form as before.

The good news is that powders and components like nickel-plated cases have seen advancements since the Barnes TSX was discontinued, so hunters will benefit from the short hiatus. The Federal Premium Barnes TSX loads will be very close to the same velocities and accuracy specifications as before, and will also be available in 6.5 Creedmoor and .224 Valkyrie, which have gained popularity in the short time Federal didn’t load the Barnes TSX.

The all-copper hollow point projectiles, known for tight groups at long range, and consistent downrange expansion are available in 17 loads from .223 Rem. to .300 Win. Mag. and have an MSRP of $33.95 to $52.95.

The senior communications manager from Federal said, “Anyone can load the Barnes TSX bullets, but it’s the premium components that set our cartridges above the rest.”

A short 42 years ago Federal made an effort to have its ammunition stand out, and continues to do so today. Look for new packaging as part of the marketing to separate Premium ammunition from others to make it emerge on the shelf and in the field.

Every deer hunter loves a big 8-pointer!

For today’s #WhitetailWednesday, we decided to look at some of the biggest 8-point bucks ever taken.

It takes some impressive measurements for a buck to crack the 170-inch minimum to make it into the Boone and Crockett record book with only eight scorable points. In fact, it has happened less than 40 times in the club’s storied history. The whitetail bucks on this list are some of the biggest of the bunch.

The Mike Kemble Buck

Ohio hunter Mike Kemble took this magnificent buck back in 2011, and at the time, it was thought to possibly be a new world-record 8-point. The buck grossed an eye-popping 186 inches. For only eight scorable points, that’s an unbelievable number!

Unfortunately, after the mandatory 60-day drying period, the buck fell just short of the record. But this is still an incredible deer at 179 5/8 inches, and Mike is probably the envy of every hunter in his area.

The Vic Bulliner Buck

Michigan isn’t traditionally thought of as a big-buck state, but that’s where this former world-record came from in 2001. Vic Bulliner shot this monster during firearms season in Hillsdale County, which any southern Michigan hunter will tell you is a true big-buck factory. This buck remained a perfect 8-point for most of its life, as two sets of sheds were found from the same deer. One of those sets sported tines that were 13 inches long!

This is as close to perfection as a buck can get. The Bulliner buck grossed 184 1/8 and netted 180 3/8, sharing the world record for a short time with the Vernon Winter buck. Even more impressive than the huge main beams and towering tines, though, is this buck’s incredible mass.

Poached Minnesota Monster

This one is most unfortunate. This buck was sadly poached back in 2009 near Cannon Falls, Minnesota. Photos have spread far and wide across the internet in the years since. The unbelievable rack grossed 190 5/8 and netted 181.

It’s sad a deer hunter’s name isn’t attached to this buck. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources now has the antlers on permanent display at their headquarters in St. Paul. They also have four replicas on display in their “Wall of Shame” locations to show poaching doesn’t pay.

The Jason Sanders Buck

Technically, this old buck is a 9-point, but most people look past the 1-6/8-inch sticker on the buck’s right G2 and call this one for what it is, a world-class Illinois 8-pointer. In fact, it’s the current Boone and Crockett world record, grossing 192 3/8 and netting 184 7/8.

Numerous daytime trail camera photos of this buck teased Sanders before he finally caught up with the beast November 26, 2011. He took the buck down with a well-placed shot from an open-sighted Mossberg 500 shotgun at just 35 yards.

The Vernon Winter Buck

The interesting thing about this list is how many of these bucks have come in just the last 10 years or so. Big 8 pointers aren’t a new phenomenon. The Vernon Winter buck was shot in South Dakota back in 1965 and has been one of the largest 8-points in the books for decades ever since with a net score of 180 3/8.

There are very few details and even fewer photos of this buck, but its sweeping main beams and towering tines make it a buck anyone would be proud of.

We do have to wonder if perhaps this buck got less attention because it’s an 8-point. It also has us wondering how many other world-class bucks might be gathering dust in a garage or attic somewhere, unknown to the deer hunting world because it’s “just an 8-point.”

NEXT: LESS IS MORE: 10 AWESOME BUCKS WITH SIX POINTS OR FEWER

A Self-Professed ‘Fly Snob’ Shares His Guilty Pleasure of Bait Fishing for Colorado’s Largest Sport Fish

At 7 a.m. on a sunny May morning, the fun begins: “Clang!” The empty Dr. Pepper can supporting my fluorocarbon line topples and crashes down the rocky bank toward the water. The clatter of the makeshift strike indicator disturbs the tranquil Lake Granby shoreline and rouses me from my early morning stupor.

I jump from my folding chair, spilling my coffee and hurry across the bank to rescue my spinning rod from its metal, v-shaped holder. Line races from the reel’s open bail, and my anticipation soars — the first “run” of the morning is always the most exciting.

With rod in hand, I allow the fish to swim freely a few more seconds. Then, with a subtle “click,” I close the bail, put the reel in gear and stop the fugitive before it strips me of both line and bait. The fish hits the tight line like a dog reaching the end of its leash, bending my rod into a deep arch. The resistance pushes the circle hook through the fish’s jaw, and the battle begins. Three minutes later, I land a fat 5-pound “Mack” — not huge, but a terrific way to kick off this outing.

During the next four hours, pop cans fall like targets in a shooting gallery. My friend Karen Krueger and I land eight fish in the 2- to 7-pound range and miss half as many more. By noon the action is over and we are enjoying a relaxing lunch on the beach. Krueger, who just experienced her first “Mack”-fishing trip, is grinning ear to ear. “That was a blast,” she says with childlike enthusiasm. I nod in agreement, while biting into my turkey sandwich and doing my best to ignore the foul stench of sucker meat on my fingers. We spend the rest of the afternoon basking in the warm sun. And although I’ve experienced days just like this one countless times throughout the years, I’m reminded again of how much I enjoy bait fishing for one of Colorado’s supreme sport fish — lake trout.

Okay, I admit it: I enjoy bait fishing for lake trout. As a self-proclaimed “fly snob,” it’s not easy confessing my fondness for bait fishing to my fly-fishing peers, particularly when that style of bait fishing involves soda cans and sucker meat. But a few times every year, I happily leave the fly rod at home and load my bait-fishing tackle into the Jeep — never once feeling an ounce of embarrassment about the cooler of sucker meat that’s sitting on my back seat. (Well…maybe just a little.)

Like most anglers, I began my fishing career drowning worms and salmon eggs for brook trout, rainbows and the occasional suburban-pond sunfish. But nothing captured my youthful imagination like bait fishing for lake trout. The nearly magical combination of catching large — sometimes enormous — fish and the almost methodical setup involved made fishing for “lakers” the ultimate boyhood adventure.

As I grew older, however, my angling interests transformed completely when I received my first fly rod — a transformation that soon became a life-long passion. And for the last 25 years or so, I’ve joined that haughty fraternity of anglers who fish almost exclusively with artificial flies. But as much devotion and love as I have for fly fishing and all its highbrow qualities, I occasionally feel the need to return to my bait-fishing roots.

In addition to being just plain fun, there’s a nostalgic quality that draws me to this simple, unpretentious style of angling. Bait fishing takes me back to those Huck Finn days of my youth, when I wasn’t concerned about the intricacies of fly casting, tippet weights or “matching the hatch” — only catching fish on minimal tackle and sharing those prized moments with family and friends. Isn’t that really what fishing is all about? As an adult, I find there’s also something intrinsically relaxing about fishing with bait. It’s a chance to give your casting arm a rest while idly enjoying the mountain scenery and a cold drink from the comfort of a lawn chair. I can’t think of a better way to spend a spring or fall day in Colorado.

According to surveys conducted by Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW), nearly half of the state’s anglers fish with bait. So, in addition to divulging my “guilty angling pleasure” to the masses, I penned this article to present all those “worm dunkers” out there with a new challenge. And to challenge my fellow lure-and fly-fishing brethren to rediscover how much fun you can have with a spinning rod, bait hooks and dirty hands — and I do mean DIRTY hands.

Sucker meat, the primary bait for lake trout, permeates your skin with a fishy odor that no amount of same-day hand scrubbing removes. My hands, cell phone, fishing gear — even the steering wheel on my Jeep — smells of sucker meat for a couple of days after a successful lake trout fishing trip. Wearing rubber or latex gloves while baiting the hook solves this problem, but the only thing worse than getting caught handling sucker meat by one of your fly-fishing buddies is to be sporting a pair of rubber dishwashing gloves while you’re doing it. Dirty hands are just part of the bait-fishing experience — a rite of passage, so to speak, for every aspiring angler who has enough courage to bait his or her own hook. If nothing else, fishing with sucker meat will get you to stop biting your fingernails faster than any other remedy. And the possibility of catching a heart-stopping lake trout is definitely worth all of the stinky side effects.

Lake Trout: What’s in a Name?

There’s likely no other freshwater fish possessing more names than lake trout; the fish has more aliases than Jesse James. In Colorado, anglers often refer to them as lakers, Mackinaw or Macks. In the Great Lakes, Alaska and Canada, where lake trout are native, fishermen call them grey trout, lake char, paperbellies, leans, siscowet and salmon trout. But perhaps the most appropriate and descriptive moniker is found in the fish’s Latin name: Salvenlinus namaycush. Namaycush, a Native American term, is said to mean “tyrant of the lakes” or “dweller of the deep.” Either translation is apropos to anglers, as lake trout are Colorado’s largest predatory sport fish, inhabiting some of the state’s coldest and deepest waters.

Characterizing lake trout as “tyrants” is fitting. They are voracious predators that feed almost exclusively upon other fish. They also get big — really big. Unlike most trout species that rarely surpass the 15-pound mark, lake trout can grow to mammoth proportions. Mackinaw in the 20- to 40-pound range are fairly common in Colorado, with anglers landing monster specimens exceeding the 40-pound mark annually. The state-record lake trout, taken from Blue Mesa Reservoir in 2007, tipped the scale at a whopping 50.35 pounds — now that’s a fish worthy of being called a tyrant! Although most lake trout caught from shore typically range in size from 2 to 20 pounds, the possibility of catching a leviathan is always present. And it’s the excitement and uncertainty of never knowing what’s lurking on the other end of your line that makes lake trout fishing so addictive.

In addition to their tyrannous ways, lake trout are truly deep-water dwellers, spending most of the year at depths of between 60 and 200 feet — that’s uncharted territory for most other freshwater fish. And it’s this preference for deep, cold water that keeps lake trout safe from the lines of most fishermen. Only anglers fishing through winter ice, or those fishing from boats equipped with sonar and downriggers, are able to get lures and jigs deep enough to reach lake trout during the summer and winter.

But during the spring and fall months, the tyrant briefly abandons its deepwater haunts and moves within reach of shore fisherman. In early spring at “ice-off,” lake trout move into the shallows to feed and remain there until water temperatures exceed 50 degrees, usually occurring around the second or third week of June at most high-mountain reservoirs. As summer progresses and water temperatures warm, the fish return to deep water and remain off limits to shore anglers until late October, when they come back to the shallows to spawn. Although the window of opportunity is narrow, early spring and late fall is when bait fisherman should fish hard and fish often.

Gearing Up

One of the best things about bait fishing is that it doesn’t require a lot of expensive or sophisticated equipment, and fishing for lake trout is no exception. Chances are, if you are nothing more than a weekend-warrior angler, you already have the necessary rods and reels in your garage to pull off a successful outing.

For lake trout, I prefer medium- to heavy-weight spinning rods. A fairly stiff, 6- to 7-foot rod is ideal to ensure effective hook-setting and to provide enough backbone to land larger fish. Some Mackinaw fishermen prefer huge saltwater surf rods, which allow them to zing bait long distances off shore. Either setup works fine, but I prefer the fun and finesse of using lighter-weight equipment. Medium-size rods cast well and can handle lake trout of all sizes, and playing fish on lighter rods is immensely more enjoyable.

Match the rod to a medium-capacity, open-faced spinning reel spooled with 6- to 12-pound test line. I prefer “clear” fluorocarbon lines, but standard monofilament or braided line like Spiderwire are fine options. Braided line works best when tipped with a 3- to 4-foot monofilament/fluorocarbon leader above the bait hook. The added leader helps conceal the more visible braided line from wary fish.

Regardless of line selection, drag adjustment is critical. The reel’s drag should be set loose enough to allow large fish to strip line from the reel without snapping it. A properly set drag can mean the difference between landing and losing the fish of a lifetime.

Sucker Soaking 101

Because lake trout are predators with a voracious appetite for other fish, one of the most effective baits is whole, dead suckers or sucker meat. Frozen suckers, sold at most bait dealers and sporting goods stores, are convenient and are generally available in a variety of sizes.

When I can find them, I prefer small, 4- to 6-inch minnows or chubs. My favorite technique is to fish these whole, threading a size 5/0 or 6/0 snelled saltwater circle hook through the minnow’s body from head to tail (see photo slideshow below). Once the hook is threaded, I attach the snell (loop end) of the hook to the main line with a snap swivel. The benefit of fishing with whole minnows is that they cast well and sink to the bottom without adding lead weight to the line. This allows the minnow to move naturally in the current, closely mimicking a dead baitfish.

The key to fishing with whole minnows is to keep the bail open on the reel after casting. Most often, lake trout will grab the dead minnow and continue swimming without stopping. Fishing with an open bail allows fish to continue moving without resistance from the rod, line or reel. Here’s how to set this up: Cast the minnow and allow it to sink to the bottom. Once it settles, reel in some of the excess line and remove most of the slack. Then, reopen the bail so the line peels freely from the spool.

Soda Can Strike Indicator

To detect strikes with an open bail, run the loose line around the lip of an empty soda can. The can serves as a strike indicator and topples when a lake trout takes the bait and swims away. To prevent false alarms on a windy day, set a small stone on top of the can to add a small amount of weight. Once a fish grabs the bait, I usually allow it to run for approximately 20 seconds before closing the bail and “setting” the hook. This allows enough time for the lake trout to take hold of the minnow, increasing successful hook-ups, but does not give the fish enough time to completely swallow the bait. On rare occasions, fish may drop the bait before the time has elapsed. If this happens, reel in the line, check the bait and recast. As they say, you win some and lose some.

‘Cutbait’ Night Crawler Rig

A standard bait-rig consisting of a sliding sinker, snap swivel and snelled circle-hook is effective when fishing with pieces of sucker meat.

If sucker minnows are not available, the second-best option is to fish with meat or “cutbait” from larger suckers. When using cutbait, I prefer a traditional night crawler bait rig, equipped with a sliding sinker, snap swivel and larger-size snelled circle hook. It’s important to cut sucker meat into bite-size strips or chunks. Baiting the hook too heavily or with excessively large pieces of meat may obscure the hook point and prevent a clean hook-set. With cutbait, keep the reel’s bail closed and set the hook when a strike is first detected. To spice things up a bit, try adding a night crawler and a salmon egg to sucker meat. I dub this smelly combination “triple delight.” It works great when cutbait by itself isn’t enough to tempt finicky “lakers.”There are some caveats when fishing with sucker meat: Make sure to store suckers in a cooler of ice until you are ready to use them. Once sucker meat gets warm, it turns mushy and falls apart, which makes it nearly impossible to keep on a hook when casting. If frozen, make sure the meat has thawed completely before use. Thawed meat produces a stronger scent, making it more likely to attract fish and it also sinks to the bottom more effectively than bait that’s still partially frozen.

Final Tips

Similar to most other angling or hunting pursuits, lake trout fishing is an early morning endeavor. In both the spring and fall, lake trout are most active in the early morning from sunrise until 12 p.m. Fish continue feeding throughout the day, but generally, fishing past noon is spotty at best.

Before heading to your favorite fishing destination, pay a visit to the area’s sporting goods store. Local shops are a great place to purchase bait and other last-minute supplies. Most importantly, shop owners can provide information to help make your fishing trip more successful. When fishing from shore, it’s helpful to know which areas of a reservoir are most productive. This is particularly important when fishing exceptionally large waters like Granby or Blue Mesa. Shop owners know all the particulars of local waters and are usually more than happy to share “inside” information with their customers.

Even if bait fishing is just not your thing, or it’s been years since you’ve “drowned a worm,” I encourage you to give lake-trout fishing a try. You’ll never have more fun watching a soda can topple and line race from your fishing reel. And who knows? You just might end up catching the fish of a lifetime. Or better yet, you may rediscover those simple, childhood- angling pleasures that got you “hooked” on fishing in the first place.

NOTE: Colorado fishing regulations prohibit the use of live fish as bait east of the Continental Divide above 7,000 feet, and west of the Continental Divide, excluding Navajo Reservoir. Therefore, anglers fishing for lake trout must use previously frozen or packaged baits to ensure compliance with regulations. Colorado Parks and Wildlife encourages anglers to keep smaller-sized lake trout. Check the fishing regulations for bag and possession limits.

The quality of crab traps for sale online is pitiful, to say the least. So-called “Best Seller” crab traps on Amazon and other online retailers will either fall apart or not hold blue crabs. As somebody who has spent a bit too much on crabbing gear, I’m here to tell you the difference between a good and bad blue crab trap.

When you’re buying crabbing gear, you need to know what to look for in a trap. A great crab trap has quality material, a good design, and is built to last. I’ve used so many traps that were plainly built to fail. For each trap on this list (The conventional crab pot, box traps, ring nets, and hand lines), I will point out what will make or break a crab trap. All of this is based on past experience.

Disclaimer: This article is filled with Amazon and eBay Affiliate Links. As an affiliate for these sites, I receive a small commission for any purchase driven through my link at no extra cost to the buyer. Thank you for supporting my website. I’ll mark each affiliate link with “(Affiliate link).”

Two-Compartment Crab Pot

A crab pot is what you usually think of when you think of crabbing. It’s the type of trap you see on shows such as Deadliest Catch. I have to say that I’m disappointed with the quality of crab pots online for blue crabs. More often than not, they are very low-quality and in limited stock. This is why I buy my traps custom-made.

Through recommendations of other watermen, I have found that they have the most luck through custom trap builders. Kcrabpots, a user on eBay.com, has been building and selling quality crab pots since 2002! This is the only crab pot builder for blue crabs I’m confident in recommending. Click here to find kcrabpots on eBay. You can navigate to his store via the Visit Store button on his about page.

I wrote a review of this crab pot, which you can read here. It’s my favorite crab pot I’ve bought out of the several others I wasted hundreds of dollars on. If you want to learn from my mistakes and save your money, I recommend you read why I love this pot.

When buying a crab pot, manufacturer’s usually get two things wrong: the strength of the wire mesh and the shape of the openings.

The image above is my failed purchase of a crab pot. It was $60 down the drain! It was made out of cheap coated chicken wire that I could easily bend, and I’m not a very strong guy! Crabs had no problem clawing their way out of the sides.

Far too often, this is the case for crab pots. However, one thing this manufacturer did get right was the trap’s openings (sort of!). They came slanted upward with enough room for a crab to easily slide into the trap, but not escape. The only problem was that the openings were made of the same low-quality wire mesh. So, the crabs had no problem bending the metal and finding their way out of the trap.

To be frank, I believe it’s best to buy a crab pot either in person or from a reputable builder. Far too often, the traps at Bass Pro Shops or other retailers, like this one, just will not work.

You will also need a crab pot harness and weighted rope with a buoy for your crab pot. I’ve found Promar sells a reliable harness. I recommend weighted rope over anything else because the slack will not float to the surface and get caught by a passing boat.

If you do go the crab pot route, be sure to check your state’s crabbing regulations. States, such as Maryland, require that you register your pot at their DNR webpage. Maryland also requires that you install a turtle excluder device on each crab pot opening.

Box Traps (My favorite crab trap)

Box traps are one of the two collapsible traps recommended in this article. A collapsible trap is a type crab trap that has to be actively triggered to trap blue crabs, unlike the more passive crab pot. This works as a great alternative for those who do not have access to a boat, do their crabbing from piers, or cannot legally use a crab pot in their state.

In my opinion, the best model of the box trap is the FoxyMate Topless Crab Trap (link to an article dedicated to this crab trap). I wrote an entire articlde dedicated to this trap, so click the link to read more about it.

If you start to do research on crab traps you may get overwhelmed at the sheer number of different versions available. There are pyramid traps, box traps, topless box traps, crab pots, ring nets, and plenty more. Forget all of these terms because they aren’t important. The only trap you should get a crabber is a Foxy-Mate Topless Crab Trap.

Here’s a picture of me holding up a crab I caught in my friend’s Foxy-Mate 66 Crab Trap (Affiliate link to Amazon). It’s not the Topless Foxy-Mate (Amazon Affiliate Link) version that I like best, but it still does the job. I like the topless version because you can stack them like cups for much easier storage. I took this picture on Taylor’s Island, MD. It was a female blue crab, so I had to throw it back.

Foxy-Mates are the ideal crab trap for anyone crabbing for Blue Crabs. If you live on the East Coast, from Texas to Maine, this includes you. They’re legal in every state on the coast and don’t come with pages long of regulations like crab pots do. Plus, they’re much cheaper! They work from a pier and from a boat or kayak, you will just need to get a buoy, some rope, and possibly a crab trap weight for anyone crabbing from a boat. The weight keeps their trap from being tossed around by the current, but it’s only necessary for crabbing in the ocean or rougher waters.

I did some digging on the internet and found that Amazon has the best prices for all of the items I mentioned. Foxy-Mates (Affiliate Link to Amazon) go in and out of stock on Amazon, but that’s because they sell for the best price here. I recommend the Foxy-Mates without a top so you can stack them like cups. You will want two or three so your crabber friend can catch more crabs at once. I usually take 6 out when I’m crabbing from my kayak.

With each trap, you’re going to need a buoy if you’re crabbing from a boat or kayak. States have different rules when it comes to buoys, so I would look at the ones they already have before making a purchase. You can read about your state’s gear guidelines on my State-By-State Crabbing Regulations page.

It never hurts to get more rope either. You can get fancy and order lead-lined rope for these traps (Affiliate link to Amazon). It’s useless if you’re crabbing from a pier, but if you’re using these traps from a boat it’s really helpful. This rope sinks with the trap, rather than float at the surface, which prevents it from getting caught in boat propellers.

With this trap, you’re going to want a weight if they are crabbing in rougher waters. I always recommend this Crab Trap Weight (Affiliate Link to Amazon) that you can zip tie to a Foxy-Mate. Tip: You can get away with zip-tie-ing some cut rebar to the trap as well, which is much cheaper.

I’ll briefly go over why I like this trap. I can sum it up in one sentence: It’s built to last a very long time and has no trouble catching blue crabs.

The trap works by laying flat with bait in the center to attract crabs. You can fasten your choice of bait with the spring at the center of the trap. When a crab tries to eat the bait, you pull on the harness to fold the cage’s doors upward and trap the poor crab.

It’s a great alternative to a crab pot, and much cheaper! It just takes active participation fro the crabber.

The only problem with this model of topless crab traps is that they are in short supply. They sporadically pop up on eBay or Amazon. If that’s the case, you may have to use a more-available FoxyMate box trap with the top. I find the topless version better because it’s stackable. It’s not more effective at catching crabs, just more convenient.

Hand-Lines (The beginner-friendly budget trap!)

Last up on this list is the basic Hand-Line, also known as a throw-line. It’s a step up from using plain old string and a net to catch blue crabs, as people have been doing for centuries.

They work by luring crabs to a piece of bait secured to some string. When the crab finds the bait, slowly pull the bait towards you with the attached string. Once it’s in view, scoop up the crab with a dip net.

The concept is as simple as this trap. It’s a clip to better secure your bait with a built-in weight so the line goes further out in the water. This won’t limit you to plain old chicken necks, which are easiest to tie to some string.

I’ve found that when it comes to hand lines, the cheapest options do the trick. I recommend this Hand Line on Amazon (Affiliate Link). I was surprised at how many I could buy on this Amazon listing for such a low price, which is great because you need around 6 hand lines at a time to catch a decent amount of crabs.

I was surprised at what a good price his dip net was on Amazon, for a high-quality tool (Affiliate Link). If not this one, make sure to get a net with a similar mesh that’s small. I’ve found that with wider-spaced nets, crabs like to cling on for dear life which makes them annoying to deal with.

Traps I Would Avoid

There are so many traps on the internet that websites recommend to beginner crabbers because they don’t know any better! Don’t get tricked and waste your money.

Ring Nets (A worse version of the box trap for the same price!)

A ring net is a circular net that lays flat on the bottom until you pull on its string. When you do, it takes the shape of something like a basket, trapping any poor crab caught in the middle. You’ll find these traps on clearance at your local Walmart or bait shop since no one wants them!

If you’re going to use a collapsible trap like this, stick with a box trap. They’re more durable and reliable at catching crabs for the same price.

If you do end up using this trap, my recommendation of ring nets for blue crabs is the Hurricane Two-Ring Net (Affiliate Link). I’ve found that this is the highest-quality ring net on the market for the lowest price. It’s much cheaper than any box trap or crab pot and perfect for some hands-on crabbing.

The Hurricane Two-Ring Net is durable. Instead of the more common cotton netting ring nets that many beginner crabbers get sucked into buying, this net is made of wire mesh. While any cotton mesh net will fall apart after one or two crabbing trips, the Hurricane will stay together.

A few downsides with this ring net are the harness and lack of bait clip. The harness is made out of pretty cheap cotton string that I recommend replacing with a more durable string. Pormar made a harness for crab pots that should work perfectly here, click here to check it out on Amazon (Affiliate Link).

This ring net has no place to put your bait. Bait that gets lost in the current or stolen by crabs can ruin a crabbing trip. I’ve had some luck using a few zip ties to tie down chicken or fish (depending on what I’m using that day) to the center of the net.

One problem I’ve found with this trap is that the S-ring at the top of the harness will sometimes get caught in the wire mesh. This will prevent the net from creating a hoop-shape when you pull it up, which lets any crab in the middle to get away! I never have this problem with a box trap!

When it comes to long-range shooting, there are two commonly used types of scope measurements, known as the milliradian (MRAD or MIL) and minutes-of-angle (MOA) systems. These are two separate but equally useful approaches for aligning rifle scopes, used to accurately zero in on a target via a segmented circle.

The style you choose will depend much on your personal preferences when shooting at a distance. But there are many things that may influence your decision. Here, we’ll cover the main differences between MOA and MRAD/MIL, and what they mean for your scope accuracy.

Use the links to skip ahead if you know what you want to learn about:

Some Background on How Scope Reticles and Turrets Work

There are two main components of aligning your scope properly: the reticle and turret. The reticle, either a crosshair or a red dot, provides an aiming point within the scope’s field of view. In the old days, shooters would stretch two pieces of horse hair across their scope to help guide their shot, hence the origin of the name crosshairs. In today’s shooting world, however, reticles are usually either laser-etched directly on the glass or made from simple wire. Reticles have become so advanced in recent years that some are capable of compensating for both bullet drop and windage, otherwise known as Bullet Drop Compensating (BDC) scopes.

A turret is a turnable knob on your scope used to adjust the reticle, and is normally located on the top and left side, and sometimes on both sides of the scope. There are two main types of turrets: target turrets and ballistic turrets. Target turrets were originally developed to assist long-range target shooters during competition. Using a tall turret with external markings in MOA, it allowed them to make fine adjustments when raising or lowering bullet impact. Ballistic turrets are raised as well but contain markings that usually come in 100-yard increments, providing a simpler and quicker way to adjust bullet trajectory.

When sighting or zeroing in on an optic, the reticle and turret are used in conjunction with each other to achieve the most precise long-range shot possible. This involves turning the turrets purposefully in order to move the crosshair left and right, up and down, ever so slightly.

Today’s scopes offer more accurate measuring capabilities, higher magnification, and better clarity to provide the shooter with more precision, power, and best of all, control over long-range shots. However, with more complex scope products available than ever, it can be hard to understand how to properly utilize all the marks and measurements so you can gain an accurate alignment. To help, you’ll first need to understand the difference between the two independent systems for scope alignment: MOA and MRAD.

What Is MRAD (Milliradians)?

Designed in a base-10 formula and developed for artillery purposes in the late 1800s, the MRAD method offers high-precision, easy-to-adjust scope alignment. Milliradian units (MRADs or MILs) are especially popular in military, police, and other highly tactical situations because of the measurement’s consistency over any range—a MIL is a MIL at 10 yards or a thousand yards. For that reason, they are also growing in popularity within the civilian market.

What Does MRAD Stand For?

MRAD stands for Milliradian, sometimes also abbreviated as MIL or MilRad. It’s a standard unit of angular measure, applicable throughout many areas of mathematics. In shooting, however, they are considered one-tenth increments, and the measurements work out to produce whole numbers. In realistic terms, MRAD established deflection is precisely .9999 centimeters at 100 meters or 99.99 centimeters at 1,000 meters. As you can see, the difference is negligible in terms of accuracy, so you can confidently count one centimeter at 100 meters, five centimeters at 500 meters, 10 centimeters at 1,000 meters, and so on. Because of this, MRAD is normally thought of as the easier and quicker method in terms of setting up long-distance shots, compared to the MOA method.

How Does MRAD Apply to Shooting?

MRAD-style scopes are best used in tactical scenarios when high-precision shooting is required. For example, U.S. Military forces use MIL-based scopes for certain weapon sets like snipers, machine guns, and mortars, largely because they’re capable of quickly measuring targets and compensating for changes in distance. Once you’re able to master the adjustments, they provide the ability for more precise measurements in a smaller amount of time. This video shows how an MRAD scope looks when zeroing in a rifle.

What is MOA (Minute-of-Angle)?

The other form of measurement is known as MOA, and was created by ancient Sumerians for astrological purposes. It’s set up in a base-60 format and then further broken down from there to provide an accurate measure of distance. In shooting, MOA is used to measure group size, target size, or shot dispersion, which has a circumference of approximately one inch at 100 yards on impact.

What Does MOA Stand For?

MOA stands for minute-of-angle and represents an angular measurement using a 360-degree circle. Splitting that 360-degree circle further, one MOA is equal to 1/60th of one degree. There are 21,600 MOAs in a full circle, giving the shooter precise marks to make adjustments against when zeroing in on a target. In simple terms, MOA is 1/60 of one degree of a 360-degree circle. At 100 yards, one MOA is close to one inch (1.047 inches exactly), at 200 yards MOA would be two inches, three inches at 300 yards, and so on. The caveat with MOA measurements, however, unlike with MRAD, is that the larger the distance, the more skewed your measurement gets when you round down. At 1,000 yards, for example, it’d be approximately 10 inches, but the real measurement is actually 10.47 inches. If not adjusted for, that half-inch could seriously affect the result of your shot.

What is an MOA Scope?

When searching for an MOA scope, you’ll find the majority of precision scopes come in one-eighth MOA, while standard scopes come in one-fourth MOA and red-dot scopes in one-half MOA. What this means is that with each turn of the dial you’re adjusting the scope in fractions of an inch. For example, every four clicks on a one-fourth MOA adjustable scope is one MOA, which is an inch at 100 yards. Because of this variety, many shooters find reticle alignment more difficult, in that some scopes do not produce whole numbers. Rather, it resembles something similar to .25 inches at 100 yards, .50 inches at 200 yards, and .75 inches at 300 yards.

Let’s say you’re shooting at a 100-yard target and the bullet misses your target. Using an MOA scope, you can turn the turrets to adjust the reticle for a more accurate shot. How much of an adjustment you make will depend on how far off your shot was. For instance, if you’re an inch above the bullseye, you’d want to adjust the point of aim by that same amount—or by one MOA. If your scope is calibrated at one-fourth MOA per click, then you’d need to adjust the down-position turret by four clicks (¼ * 4 = 1 MOA). Similar adjustments for left and right aiming can be made using the other available turret.

MRAD vs. MOA for Hunters

As with everything in the firearms world, there’s debate about the maximum distance you should be able to ethically shoot game. And, with ever-improving scope and rifle accuracy, it seems there will never be a clear-cut answer. It ultimately rests with what you’re personally comfortable with. That being said, the concept of one MOA at 100 yards is quick and easy to grasp, and it’s accurate enough for medium-range distances (the higher the distance the more accurate math required of 1.047 inches vs. a rounded-down one inch). However a MIL-based scope is still probably a better tool of measurement when hunting moving targets at a longer distance.

It’s true that MOA provides more precision, but because of this, it also requires more adjustment turns on a turret. MIL-based turrets, on the other hand, require fewer clicks to make a needed correction—something that can come in handy when you’re tracking an elk at 500 yards, for example. Either way, you can train yourself in any system that you’re comfortable with, and even mix if you’re good at making on-the-go calculations in your head. At the end of the day, the simplest method for you is most likely the smartest choice.

MRAD vs. MOA for Competitive Shooters

In competitive shooting scenarios, it’s generally recommended to use the MRAD system, unless you’re a seasoned competitor who is used to MOA. MOA is technically more precise, but realistically, the average person won’t be able to shoot the difference of one-tenth of a meter vs. one-fourth of an inch.

Another benefit of using MRAD in competitive shooting is that the majority of competitors will be using it as well, making it much easier to communicate with others. Most long-range sport shooters are migrating to the MRAD system if they haven’t already, and for simplicity’s sake, it makes sense to be on the same page as those you’re competing with or against.

As you begin participating in more and more competitive shooting events, you’ll find that most things—from wind holds to elevation holds to called misses to target size and beyond—will use an angular measurement (for example, “adjust one-tenth right and quarter MIL down”). As such, making changes to the scope’s reticle is easier when fellow shooters can provide instruction without you or others translating measurements.

MRAD to MOA Conversion

In general, it’s best to avoid mixing and matching MOA/MRAD turrets and reticles. Doing so results in some complicated math and having to do calculations on the fly, whereas sticking to one or the other requires fewer conversions and generally keeps it simple. For example, an MOA reticle with MOA turrets keeps measurements under the imperial system umbrella. However, if you do need to convert MRAD to MOA or vice versa, use the following formulas:

• MOA to MIL: MOA / 3.438 = MIL
• MIL to MOA: MIL * 3.438 = MOA

Which is Easier to Use: MIL (MRAD) or MOA?

The type of scope you choose will ultimately depend on what you’re more comfortable with. Those that prefer the metric system will find MRAD calculations easier, while if you use the imperial system, an MOA scope is ideal. Even though the two styles are very close in accuracy, the wide majority of shooters prefer MRAD due to the fact that it’s standardized in the military. For instance, one-fourth MOA gives slightly finer adjustments than one-tenth MRAD, but it’d be hard for even the best shooters to see a noticeable difference in precision. However, because of its popularity among these two communities, that popularity tends to carry over into the civilian realm, as well.

The Choice is Yours

Ultimately, it’s up to you which style of scope you purchase. The differences between MOA and MRAD mainly lie in which system of measurement you’re most comfortable with—metric vs. imperial—and your ability to conduct quick conversions or employ formulas that improve shot accuracy at long distances.

The best advice we can give you is to try both systems out. If you’re new to one or the other, put effort into learning that system of measurement to figure out what fits in with your shooting style. In general, each system provides a high level of precision, and just because the military and police stick to MIL doesn’t mean that it’s any more effective than MOA. At the end of the day, they’re both standard measurements that you can become proficient in.

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As a kid, we fished for largemouth bass in the summer. We’d catch the lion’s share of them around weed beds and shady docks. But every now and then I’d wake up early enough to tag along with the grownups to go smallmouth fishing. In the summer, our resident brown bass didn’t make many appearances after 8 a.m. But I can remember the sage advice from my mentors back then. Just wait until October, they’d say. That’s when the smallmouths really move in.

And they were right. Fall smallmouth trips were special times.

And they were right. Fall smallmouth trips were special times. Much of fishing remains a mystery to a youngster, and it’s the unknown factor that makes a great selling point. Now, as a more seasoned angler, I realize the smallmouth were there all along — just not in areas where we’d cross paths.

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But I also still believe in the power of autumn. I’ve fished for smallmouths all across the country and have found one solid rule: the colder it gets in the fall, the better they bite. Whether it’s water temps dropping to the 50s in Tennessee or ice forming on the Great Lakes, the decline in water temperature triggers a feeding spree among smallmouth bass.

Winter can be tough, and to survive and thrive, bass must put on as much weight as possible beforehand. In fact, studies have found that successful springtime spawns within smallmouth populations are often dependent on the previous fall’s feed.

Regardless, the fish are ready to eat, and we’re ready to be a part of that. We just need to get in the right areas.

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Tactic One: Shallow Rocks

Let’s start with the easiest and most obvious. Around much of the North, especially on bodies of water with a mix of rocks and vegetation, smallmouth bass are drawn to specific hard structures. Water temperatures are dropping, grass beds are dying off, and the remaining rocky areas attract solid food items like crawfish and perch. At times, a single large rock may hold a bruiser worthy of personal-best status. One of my largest bass, a fish eclipsing 7 pounds, came in this very scenario on a cold November day on New York’s Chautauqua Lake.

Here, it’s imperative to find the sweet spot. Big smallmouths are masters of their domain, and they know the best hunting grounds. Transitions, like where rocks meet sand or sand meets grass, are always best. Side-imaging depth-finders help, but many of these spots can be seen with a good pair of sunglasses on a nice day. Line up and make accurate casts, and repeat them — exactly – once fish are located.

It’s tough to beat a jig and plastic in this scenario. The best smallmouth options are a little lighter (around ¼ ounce) and more streamlined than a standard flipping jig. Stick to blacks and browns, and fish them on a long rod and 12-pound fluorocarbon. On particularly cold days, afternoons are best, once the rocks warm surrounding waters.

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Tactic Two: Long Points

Across the Southeast, everything revolves around baitfish. Large shad schools tighten up and begin migrating to major creek arms on the country’s biggest reservoirs. Not surprisingly, bass follow. While largemouth bass have a reputation for getting in the skinniest of water, smallmouths in the same system usually remain in mid-depth, main lake areas. More comfortable as pack feeders than lone ambushers, smallmouths prefer to work schools of baitfish in groups.

Large points are great places to find these roving bands of bass. They key here is to first locate baitfish. Location will depend on the stage of the game: main lake in early fall, large creeks later on. Regardless, find the bait and you’ll find the bass. Look for large points with vast flats on top, and fish there early in the day with topwater baits. Nothing beats a walking bait for smallmouths. As the day progresses, bass will often move off the sides of points, especially if a creek channel intersects. If rocky or wood structure coincides, all the better. Deeper fish can be caught on cranks, jerkbaits, grubs and drop-shots. Occasionally, the topwater bite lasts all day. Remember to stay by the bait.

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Tactic Three: Bluff Banks

Our third strategy mimics the second. However, here, we want to find a place where schools of bass can pin baitfish. This is an incredible fishing opportunity when it presents itself. On many lakes with steep, bluff shorelines, smallmouths will hold on small shelves and rock piles waiting for baitfish to blow in. When that happens, the bass go berserk and massacre the minnows right up against the wall.

Again, it’s imperative to first find the baitfish, then find areas where wind or current will blow them against the bank. Even areas with strong winds producing noticeable waves against a bluff bank are still in play. Occasionally, a large sea-wall or the face of a dam will suffice. In any case, we’re looking for places where baitfish are being disoriented and facing a large object.

These spots are often snaggy, so a cast-and-retrieve bait is better than a bottom-bouncer. Swimbaits on a heavy jighead are great. Big bladed spinnerbaits come on strong once the water clouds up from wave action. At times, a Rat-L-Trap is all you need. Remember, this is an all-or-nothing method, so you’ll know right away if it’s working.

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Tactic Four: Great Lakes Basins

The big brown bass of the Great Lakes are a different breed. Sure, some come shallow in fall, but most stay deep and move deeper. In twenty-plus years of fishing the big waters, autumn was never underrated. Start your search where the best summer fishing occurred, and move deeper. Bass from adjacent structures will eventually meet up in one special area. Years ago, I coined these places Basin Zones, where the outside edges of summer structure meet vast, open water basins. On Lake St. Clair, this is often 18 feet of water; on Ontario is may be 50.

What we’re looking for here is the last piece of structure before the bottom drops to never-never land. Don’t begin casting until you mark significant numbers of fish. We’re looking for the motherlode here. The best presentations will be efficient deep-water methods. Drop-shot plastics remain number one, followed by metal blade baits and spoons. Underspins are becoming popular, as are solid-body swimbaits on jigheads weighing 3/4 ounce. The key is to get a bait down, even in the rough seas associated with fall fishing up north. Once you find them, the fish will do the rest.

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Tactic Five: Flats in the Desert

A quick review of recent smallmouth action reveals new fisheries in the West are coming on strong. Lakes like Havasu and Mead are producing eye-opening catches. Here, tactics mimic those of other parts of the country, with a desert twist. Clear waters and large striper populations put baitfish on high alert. When looking for smallmouths, sometimes the best play is to first find the stripers.

Striped bass are efficient open-water predators, likely due to their saltwater roots. Other species, notably largemouth and smallmouth bass, often feed in and around schools of stripers. Picking up the scraps can make for a good life.

Look for feeding action around shallow points and rocky flats. There, fish jerk baits and topwaters with a brisk, aggressive retrieve. If your catch includes nothing but stripers, slow down with a white hair jig fished in and around the school. Mike Guerra — an old friend living and fishing in Vegas — jigs a white hair jig around striper schools until temps cool to jacket weather, and he has some of his best smallmouth days when everyone thinks he’s striper fishing.

Sorry to let the cat out of the bag, Mike.

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I get asked all the time what it is like to be a guide.

Some of the questions I get on a daily basis are, how do you do it day in and day out?

The other question is how can you fish every day and not get sick of it?

Another one is you must eat a lot of fish.

I’ve wanted to write this article for quite some time to explain why I do what I do, and why I absolutely love what I do. But I do have to admit, this job is definitely not for everyone.

The first thing I will talk about is my background and why I think guiding fits and works for me. The biggest thing I have is a passion for fishing. Without it, there is no way a person can be successful in this line of work.

To be honest, we as a guide a lot of time don’t get to fish all that much. Most of our time is trying to control the boat, rig lines, bait hooks, talk about what we are doing, etc. Don’t get me wrong, a lot of days we have to fish in order to figure out what the fish are doing and the mood the fish are in. It’s not as easy of a task as one might think.

The reason why guiding works for me is that I am a very goal-oriented person. Me playing hockey for a living did a few things for me. First, being challenged day in and day out to perform and to perform at a high level. You needed to be on top of things and you needed to be organized. The clock would mean nothing to me, other than what time I need to be somewhere. I was always early to everything we did in hockey and this is serving me well as a guide.

As a former professional hockey player, it also groomed me to work hard. I find so many situations each day with guiding that are so similar to playing hockey as a job. I think the biggest is the challenge to find and catch fish day in and day out.

I’ve told folks I don’t handle idle time all that well. So, for me, a schedule of getting up early to make sure the boat is ready to go each guided day is probably the best part of my job. I feel purpose, and my mind and body are busy.

Meeting new people can be a challenge for some. For me, hockey prepared me well for this. I love getting to know new folks if they are willing to talk. Some people are pretty reserved in the boat, and not all that easy to get to chat with. You learn to read people fast in this line of work! Especially if they are struggling to catch on to what the day is bringing as far as fishing goes.

If I’ve seen it once I have seen it a thousand times. If you have a husband and wife as clients. I can pretty much set my watch to the fact she will outfish him. Reason? Well, the wife will listen to me to a fault and the husband will try and reinvent the wheel.

Here are the deal folks, I put in your hands the best rods, lines, lure, etc. To help you catch fish. The stuff I have tied on is proven over and over in my boat or fish house to catch fish, and to catch fish consistently. One of my fellow guides says it best when he tells me he would never go to our client’s place of employment and tell them how to do their job.

Another thing we have going for us is we are literally a mobile fishing advertising billboard of sorts. I know a few bass stars and a few walleye anglers who get paid the big bucks when it comes to sponsorships. More power to those guys!

However, let’s be honest here, a fishing guide like myself logs well over 250 days on the water or on the ice working directly in front of people actually fishing. Not only do we have a captive audience in our boats, fish houses, and trucks, side by sides, but we are also very visible online, gas stations, boat ramps, fish cleaning stations, etc. If you want to know how a product works, how a product doesn’t work, how a truck pulls, or a boat handles the guides are my first stop every time I am in the market. The guides like myself use these things more than anyone! It’s not even a close second.

So, what are some of the hardest things about being a fishing guide? For me, the single most difficult part is the weather. We cannot control it! I wish I could turn the wind, rain, snow, heat, etc. Off, but that’s just not possible. So, we do get beat up on those days because of the weather. We end up having to fish on days most folks would be cuddled up on the couch with a blanket and the fire on. My dad gives me grief on those days, but I always fire back, you can’t catch a 30-incher on your lazy boy.

Another pressure-filled thing is high expectations. People only see the magazine cover shots of huge tables of fish, or a client holding a fish of a lifetime. We are all guilty of it as guides. Getting people into the reality of what to expect isn’t always easy to do. In fishing, both open water and frozen water hours are like years. Just because we crushed them yesterday, doesn’t mean it will happen today. Things change and things can change fast.

Days off? For me, there is no such thing. If I don’t have a guide trip scheduled, if weather permits, I’m out chasing the bite or looking for another bite. I tried to be a part-time guide, and that is extremely hard to keep your edge and do well day in and day out. It’s hard to roll onto a body of water and just put people on fish without being on the water daily. So being a full-time guide has helped me become a better guide and it’s for sure better for my clients. They are paying good money to get out on the water and catch fish. The scenery is always good but they could stay on shore and see that. So, for me, it’s so very important to be prepared and dialed in to give these customers a great day on the water.

Cleaning fish and eating fish. It’s natural to think I would eat just tons of fish every year. I honestly eat so very few it’s sad at times.

I really try not to keep extra fish for myself. I clean so many fish every year, the last thing I want to do is clean more for myself.

Another thought process for mine is conservation. Those 5 walleyes, 20 perch 5 pike are fish my clients might get a chance to enjoy the next day, or my kids to enjoy the next day. We as guides understand this, and we want fishing to remain solid for everyone for years to come.

The ND Game and Fish does a great job of monitoring this and if they feel stocking is required and or a lower limit, they will impose one. I feel okay cleaning a catch of fish for my clients to eat and or take home with them, because of this.

Crazy stories about clients on the water or ice? Well, I think for me I am going to save all of those for a book I want to write when I retire from guiding. The problem is, I may be 90 by the time I retire if I make it that long! So we will all have to wait and see!

The .308 Winchester (.308 Win) and 5.56 NATO rounds are two of the most popular centerfire rifle cartridges in the United States and across North America. Both cartridges are battle-proven and currently in service with the U.S. Military and its NATO allies.

The 308 vs 556 debate has been raging between civilian marksman, law enforcement, and military shooters for well over 60 years and is akin to a clash of heavyweight titans nothing short of Ali vs Frasier.

Sufficed to say, it is unlikely that we will be able to crown a victor in the context of this article.

However, get ready for an absolute knock-down, drag-out, slugfest between two of the most popular and iconic cartridges in shooting!

A Quick Note on Nomenclature

In the context of this article, .308 Winchester (308 Win) and 7.62x51mm NATO (762 NATO) will be used interchangeably. The same can be said for .223 Remington (223 Rem) and 5.56x45mm NATO (556 NATO).

However, please understand that rifles chambered in 308 and 223 are different than those chambered in their NATO spec equivalents, 762 and 556, respectively.

It’s important to note that NATO spec ammunition should ONLY be fired from rifles chambered to NATO specifications.

You should experience zero issues shooting .223 Rem ammo in your 5.56 rifle, but not vice versa. The same is true for .308 in a 7.62 rifle. This is due to chamber pressure differences between the .223 vs 5.56 and .308 vs 7.62 rounds.

Bottom line: Know what round your rifle is chambered in (it’s typically engraved on the barrel or receiver of your rifle).

What is .308 Win?

Following the end of the Korean War, the U.S. Military started developing a replacement for the storied M1 Garand. Although the M1 Garand had served the U.S. Armed Forces valiantly through World War II and Korea, the military wanted a more modern service rifle with select-fire capability and detachable magazines similar to the Stg-44 and AK-47.

The M1 Garand was chambered in the 30-06 Springfield cartridge, 7.62x63mm NATO designation, a round that has been credited with taking down every North American large game animal, including the great bears.

With advancements in rifle powder technology and case design in the 1950s, the new 7.62x51mm NATO rifle round was able to achieve neatly identical ballistic performance as the 30-06 Springfield with a shorter cartridge case length and lower overall weight.

The US Army officially adopted the 7.62x51mm NATO round and the new M14 battle rifle in 1958. The M14 featured a 20-round detachable magazine and select fire capability (semi-auto and full auto).

The M14 saw its first action in the Vietnam War before being quickly being replaced by the M16 in 1964.

762 has also been utilized in multiple machine guns fielded by the U.S. Military, including the M60, M240B, and GAU-17/A minigun.

Seeing the potential of the 762 in the civilian market, Winchester was quick to adapt the new rifle round to its Model 70 bolt action rifle. The civilian version of the 7.62 was named the .308 Winchester.

Other major firearms manufacturers followed suit and the 308 Winchester quickly became available in multiple bolt action, pump, and semi-automatic rifle platforms.

Other popular 308 Winchester bolt action rifles include:

• Savage 11/110
• Remington 700
• Ruger M77 Hawkeye
• Browning X-Bolt
• Weatherby Vanguard

The 308 Winchester has since become the most popular big game hunting round in the world with bullet weights typically ranging between 120 to 180 grains.

With astounding accuracy, stopping power, and an effective range out to 1,000 yards (with appropriate loadings), the 308 is a staple in deer hunting camps and in marksmanship competitions across the globe.

What is 5.56 NATO?

The 5.56x45mm NATO cartridge was derived from the .223 Remington (which itself descended from the .222 Remington). Development of the 223 Rem rifle round began in 1957 and the final design was submitted by Remington Arms to the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) in 1962.

The development of the 223 Remington cartridge was a joint operation organized by the U.S. Continental Army Command between Fairchild Industries, Remington Arms, and Eugene Stoner of Armalite.

Eugene Stone was the primary inventor of the AR-10 rifle (chambered in 7.62), which he was invited to scale down to accommodate the new .223 Rem cartridge.

The resulting rifle was the AR-15, which has become the most popular sporting rifle design in the United States. The military adopted a select-fire version of the AR-15, designating it the M16 in 1964.

FN Herstal developed the 5.56x45mm round beginning in 1970 using the 223 as a parent case. The 5.56 and .223 cases are identical in case dimensions.

However, the primary difference between the two cartridges is the maximum pressure allowance for the rifle rounds.

SAAMI specifications for the .223 Rem indicate that a maximum allowable chamber pressure of 55,000 psi. However, the 5.56 case was designed to handle pressures up to around 61,000 psi.

This is why you should NEVER fire 5.56 from a firearm chambered in .223 Rem, as the chamber a rifle chambered in 223 Remington is not rated to handle the pressure of a 5.56 round.

The 223 was quickly adopted to both AR platform and bolt action rifles from all major firearm manufacturers. Its low recoil impulse and flatter trajectory makes it ideal for marksmanship trials and varmint hunters.

As the .223 Remington ammo can be purchased in a variety of bullet weights for a variety of different applications, but the most common bullet weights that you’ll find in most all gun shops and sporting goods stores are 55, 62, and 69 grain.

.308 Win vs 5.56 NATO – The Contest Begins

Now that you have a clearer understanding of where each round came from, it’s time to ring the bell and let these two heavyweight sluggers throw hands! We’ve got 8 rounds (categories) for these two NATO pugilists to contend in.

Let’s get it on!

Round #1 – Recoil

Winner – 5.56 NATO

The 223 and 556 rounds were developed in response to the military’s need for a lower recoil battle rifle/carbine.

Although the 308 Winchester cartridge is a capable rifle round, it has almost double the case capacity and fires much heavier bullets. All of this adds up to considerably more felt recoil when shooting a 308.

The lower recoil of the 556 allows for higher accuracy and faster follow-up shots when engaging targets in semi-automatic or fully automatic fire.

Round #2 – Weight

Winner – 5.56 NATO

This is perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the 223 over the 308. The 308 Winchester is considerably heavier than its 223 Remington counterpart and soldiers can carry considerably more 223 into battle.

This was one of the main reasons for the development of the 556. Assuming a 22-pound ammo loadout, a soldier can carry approximately 660 rounds of 223 vs only 280 rounds of 308.

Round #3 – Effective Range

Winner – 7.62 NATO

7.62 was developed to have outstanding accuracy at longer ranges. Standard 308 Win loadings can still be combat effective out to 1,000 yards.

By comparison, the 5.56 is typically only considered effective out to about 500 yards.

When shooting out past 500 yards, wind drift becomes a major issue. With a heavier bullet, the 308 is going to be less affected by wind conditions than the lighter weight 5.56 rifle round.

Military and Law Enforcement snipers have long favored the more powerful 308 Winchester round for its accuracy and effective range.

Round #4 – Barrier Penetration

Winner – 7.62 NATO

Barrier penetration, or lack thereof, has been one of the biggest critiques of the 5.56 since its inception.

The 223 is faster but lighter in weight, and is therefore much more susceptible to deflection and tumbling when it encounters an obstacle when compared to the much heavier 308.

This was a major issue during the Vietnam War and why many veterans of that war are somewhat sour on the M16 rifle.

The newer 5.56 round has somewhat better barrier penetration when compared to the initial design of the 223 Rem, however neither compares to the raw penetrating power of a 147 grain bullet fired from a 308 Winchester chambered rifle.

Round #5 – Self Defense

Winner – 5.56 NATO by a tiny margin

Both the 5.56 and the 7.62 are going to be extremely effective during a self-defense situation.

Both cartridges are combat-proven and lethal within self-defense ranges.

The only caveat is that the 308 will be more prone to over penetration in a home defense situation, which is why I have to give a slight edge to 5.56.

Round #6 – Accuracy

Winner – Wash

Both the 308 and 223 are extremely accurate and reliable. Under 500 yards it is unlikely a shooter will be able to detect any noticeable difference in accuracy between the two rounds.

Round #7 – Stopping Power

Winner – 7.62 NATO

With its heavier bullet, the 762 has almost double the energy (ft-lb) at the muzzle when compared to the 5.56 round. We will cover more of the ballistic data below, however there’s no denying the sheer power and force of the 308 Winchester, which is why it is the ideal choice for big game hunting as well.

Round #8 – Reloading

Winner – Wash

Both the 223 Remington and the 308 Winchester are a dream to reload.

With a plethora of suitable powders, different bullets to choose from, and plenty of brass cartridges available on the secondary market, it makes reloading 223 and 308 a fun and enjoyable experience.

The average hand loader can easily produce match-grade ammo that is tailored to their rifle without the cost of purchasing match ammunition.

Crowning a Champion in the 308 vs 556 Title Fight

Honestly, this one is simply too close to call and we’re going to have to go to the judge’s scorecards to make a final determination.

But that judge isn’t me, it’s YOU!

The real difference between these two calibers is what your intended purpose is.

Looking to take down North American large game starting at deer and going up thorough Elk? Then look no further to the 308 Winchester with a box of hunting soft points to get the job done!

Maybe you’re looking to get into long range shooting out past 500 yards? 7.62 get’s the nod here as well with some high quality match grade full metal jacket (FMJ) ammo.

Maybe you’ve got a lot of varmints around your ranch and you need something light weight with fast follow up shots? Then an AR-15 or bolt action 223 Remington rifle will serve you well harvesting small game as your hunting rifle of choice.

Or perhaps you just want to get out to the range and have a good time plinking or target shooting with some cheap FMJ ammo? 5.56 takes this tile as well.

And then, of course, maybe you just want to enjoy your 2nd Amendment Rights and enjoy the freedoms our Forefather’s fought for? Then get both and see the benefits and limitations of both 223 and 308.

No matter which caliber you chose as the winner of this heavyweight bout, pick something that you enjoy shooting and get out to the range and see how tight you can make those 100-yard groupings!

And remember, buying in bulk is always smart, make sure to check out our stock of bulk 308 ammo and 5.56 bulk ammo.

308 vs 5.56 Ballistics

For all my readers who love the numbers, we have made an outstanding ballistics table comparing both .308 and 5.56.

We’ve compared velocity in feet per second (FPS), energy in foot-pounds (ft-lb), and bullet drop at various combat yardages to help you pick the best caliber for your intended purpose.

308 Winchester Ballistics: Chart of Average 308 Winchester Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

5.56x45mm Ballistics: Chart of Average 5.56x45mm Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

Product Description

The ICBM Weighted Long Distance Float – long casting bobber / float – waggler missile will help you reach far-away spots. Goes a long way on light line up to 80 yards and consistently longer than any you have every fished. Try one – Bombs Away.

If you need to launch a float long distance to cover water, the ICBM Weighted Long Distance Cast Bobber is your weapon. Deliver either artificial or live baits long distance with these weighted bobbers. The ICBM offers you the ability to make long-distance casts on spinning tackle to fish your extreme conditions. If you are fishing deep water over 20 ft., or you wish to cast 150 – 200 feet away, these floats will easily work for that distance. A very long-casting float. Long distances can be achieved with very easy casts.

** PRODUCT NOTE -2 Weight size variations are IN STOCK. The float differs in weights and will be either Medium Long (second-heaviest) or Long (heaviest) you may receive different colors when ordering this product. Float tips are all the same high-visibility orange.

These floats have been reinforced and sealed top and bottom with epoxy for added strength and built to last!

The ICBM Weighted Long Distance Float – Bobber can also be fished with 1/32 oz. jig and requires only 2 grams of split shot to balance the float which saves the angler money! The floats are weighted and require the addition of only a couple big split shot to sink the float down lower in the water.

If you are not used to casting this float, your first casts should be soft-medium so you can feel the power of this missile-style weighted waggler float. Slowly add a little more power on your next casts and see the distances you can achieve. The use of a longer rod and light line will create tools for you to reach far out into lakes and reservoirs and even fish 20 – 30 feet below the surface at long-distance.

This is a great float for fishing plastics or small minnows for crappie, perch, walleye, panfish and trout. This can also be fished with small artificial worms for bass as well as half a crawler, leeches (great), grubs, particle baits, red worm, wax worm or crickets – very versitile float. Carp anglers and catfish anglers will love these bobbers.

We suggest using a Quick Change Float Snap or the Pro Float Connector to fish these at their maximum. You can adjust sizes to match changing conditions and swap out a different weight and size of float if needed. If the wind dies down, you should always go with the lightest float possible. This float is great for high winds and in waves.

Use a longer rod like our 9 foot rod or 10 foot float series rod and a big reel loaded with light line (4 lb. or 3 lb.) line to max out your casts. As you use 6 lb. or heavier lines, the casts will go shorter, but still a long way out from your position. After the float lands in the water, you can quickly reel in with your rod tip below the water and sink the line. Sinking the line will keep your float in place even at a long distance away.

The float (bobber) comes pre-loaded with it’s own weight which means you won’t have to use as much split shot to sink your rig, saving you money and setup time. At longer distances, you can leave some split shot off to raise the float antenna upward- offering high visibility at long distance. The high-visibility yellow stem can be seen clear across the lake!

Can be fished on Firewire braided or mono filament lines and using many baits including baits up to medium-sized minnows. When casting the ICBM Weighted Long Distance Waggler, you start slow and pick up the pace during the cast. Make sure you aren’t wrapped around the tip- or you will snap you line on the cast. Take your time, enjoy bombing casts!