Georgia is a diverse state with a wide range of habitat types spread across its 159 counties. From the mountains of North Georgia to the swamps and coastal plain of South Georgia, that diversity yields differences in both the quantity and quality of deer from one region — and even one county — to the next.

Even the rut dates vary by county!

With that in mind, we decided to take a deep dive into Georgia’s deer harvest data by county to see which counties held the best opportunities to fill the freezer and which were more likely to give you a shot at that big buck you’re after. The results are interesting to say the least.

Best Georgia Counties for Big Bucks

Before we dive into which counties produce the biggest bucks, I first need to break down how we ultimately chose the counties we did.

For this particular article, we looked at GON’s big buck records for the past five seasons, looking at how many bucks 140 inches or better were taken in each county. The 140-inch designation was somewhat arbitrary, but we felt it was a good benchmark for what most would consider an exceptional buck here in Georgia.

Now, let’s take a look at the results.

Number of Bucks Killed Over 140 Inches by County

When sorting through the data, one thing was for sure. When it comes to shooting big bucks in Georgia, Worth County reigns king!

Over the last five seasons, hunters have taken 28 bucks in Worth County that measured 140-inches or better. That was nearly twice as many as its closest competitor!

Tift County was second on the list at 15 bucks over 140 inches, with six of those being harvested last season – the most of any county for the 2022-2024 season.

Dougherty and Fulton counties came in third and fourth place with 14 bucks each, and Macon County rounded out our top five with 13.

Morgan and Pulaski counties were next with 11 and 10 bucks respectively, but both only had one 140-inch or better buck killed there each of the last two seasons. Is that a sign they are going downhill as far as quality goes? It’s probably too early to say at this point.

Cook, Colquitt and Lee counties finish out the top 10 with 10, nine, and nine bucks over 140 inches respectively.

Keep in mind that these numbers are all based on bucks that were officially scored and reported to GON. Obviously there are plenty of bucks taken every season that never get officially scored or reported. But enough of them do to give us a good enough baseline to see county-level trends

Best Counties for Filling the Freezer

If you’re more interested in filling the freezer than a trip to the taxidermist, we have you covered there, too!

Fortunately for Georgia hunters, there are healthy deer numbers across most of the state. Most counties provide excellent opportunities to fill the freezer. The exception would be some of the northernmost counties where deer densities are low, and there are limited opportunities to harvest does.

For this part of the article, we looked at the state’s deer harvest data for the 2022-2024 season.

With that in mind, here are our top 10 Georgia counties for filling your freezer with venison:

Because some counties are much larger than others, it wouldn’t be fair to simply look at the total number of deer killed, so to level the playing field, we instead looked at the number of deer harvested in each county by square mile.

As you can see in the table, Hancock, Warren, Wilkes, Madison, and Gordon counties all saw harvests over 9 deer per square mile. Polk, Hall, Dade, Meriwether, and Oglethorpe weren’t far behind with harvests in the 8-9 deer per square mile range.

As far as overall total deer harvest, Hancock County reigned supreme at 4,584 deer harvested, including 1,435 bucks and 3,149 does.

10 Worst Counties for Deer Hunting

For our 10 worst counties list, we looked at both the deer harvest per square mile and the number of 140-inch or better bucks harvest over the last 5 seasons. The resulting “worst counties” are those with a relatively low harvest and few, if any, big bucks being killed.

Here’s what we came up with:

Even though Rabun produced a couple of 140-inch or better bucks over the last five years, it was the only county that yielded less than one deer per square mile. It had the third lowest total harvest behind Clayton and DeKalb counties, which have very limited hunting due to their urban setting.

With the exception of Brantley County, none of the remaining nine worst counties had a 140-inch or better buck taken, and all had harvests under two deer per square mile.

A Few Caveats

Now before you send that hate mail informing me how wrong my article is, let me issue this disclaimer: These lists are primarily for fun, and were created based on averages calculated at the county level.

You may have a hunting property in one of the counties we designated as “the worst” and have great success there. Or you may hunt one of our “best counties” and not have any luck at all. Deer numbers and quality can vary greatly, even across a small county, based on the habitat and hunting pressure found on individual properties within that county.

So don’t let anything in this report upset you or keep you from hunting an area where you’ve had success. This is just a simple guide to point you in the right direction if you’re trying to figure out where to deer hunt based on either quantity of deer or quality of bucks.

So go ahead and delete that hateful email and just go deer hunting! Prove us wrong.

Why You Should Walk Back Tune Your Arrow Rest

As I said, I have recently been experimenting with different broadhead options and while I did my testing at a maximum range of 30 yards, it wasn’t until I stretched the distance that the weakness in my system began to show its face. And, despite the fact that the average treestand bow-shot happens between 15-20 yards, I like to push the limits of my equipment and increase my maximum, effective killing range (MEKR) whenever possible.

My broadhead, which seemed to fly so precisely at 30 yards (matching my field points) suddenly began to develop a mind of its own when I hit 40 paces. However, instead of looking at the head in question with a skeptical eye, I knew exactly where the problem lies. It could be found in my arrow rest. The only way to fix the problem was to Walk Back Tune it.

How Do You Walk Back Tune Your Rest?

While the term might sound complicated the procedure is rather simple to perform. But, before we discuss the “how” let’s cover the necessary items you will need.

1. Large Target: Try to find the biggest one possible.
2. Duct Tape or Blue Painters Tape
3. Shooting distance of at least 40 yards
4. Allen Wrenches
5. Range Finder
6. Calm or No Wind.

Start by using the tape to make a T on your target face starting at about 6 inches below the top of the target. Depending on the speed of your bow, the vertical portion of the T might need to be longer or shorter.

Once you have made the T on the target face it is then time to shoot your first arrow. Starting at 10 or 20 yards, aim exactly where the horizontal and vertical portions of the T connect. If your arrows don’t hit the mark then adjust your sight only. Keep adjusting your sight until your arrow impacts the intersecting lines. Once that happens it is time to move further away from the target.

Using the same pin you used for the first arrow (20 yards) walk back to 30 yards and launch an arrow at the same intersecting point on the T. Then, walk back to 40 yards and, using the same 20-yard pin to aim with, shoot an arrow at the intersecting lines on the T. Repeat this process for 50 and 60 yards if possible. Again, all shots are taken while aiming at the same intersecting line of the T using only your 20-yard pin.

Once completed, you will find that of course, your arrows will fall from the top to the bottom. However, the critical detail will be which side of the tape they landed on; either right or left of the centerline on the T. You will notice that the further the distance of the shot, the further away from the centerline your arrows will be. This is normal as the greater the distance the greater the influence on arrow impact.

Adjusting Your Arrow Rest

Unlike sighting in your bow (when you chase the arrow with your sight’s pin), walk back tuning requires that your arrow rest be moved in the direction you want the arrow to go. For example, if your arrows are falling to the left of the centerline on the T then you will want to move your arrow rest to the right. Conversely, if your arrows are falling to the right of the centerline on the T then you will want to move your arrow rest to the left.

Believe me when I tell you it only takes a minute amount of movement in order to drastically change your arrow’s point of impact. More than once I have overcompensated and pushed my arrow beyond the desired impact point.

So, after making a small adjustment to your rest repeat the process to determine if more movement is necessary and in what direction. Pretty soon all of your arrows should impact the vertical line on the T from top to bottom. Remember, use only your top pin for all shots.

The Basics of 2nd and 3rd Axis Adjustments

I once thought that the 2nd and 3rd axis adjustments on my bow sight were more suited for the western big-game bowhunter. However, while prepping for a western hunt I realized the importance of setting these adjustments not only for elk in September but also for my favorite whitetail stand in November. As it turns out, the 2nd and 3rd axis adjustments are both critical for dead-on accuracy; especially in hill country or when shooting uphill, downhill, and even side-hill.

The 2nd Axis adjustment (which can be done with your bow leveled and resting) is probably the easiest to understand as it runs through the shooter’s line of sight and is adjusted by rotating the sight housing like the hands on a clock (clockwise or counterclockwise). Up close you might not recognize any effects if things are out of whack. However, at longer distances, your accuracy will suffer.

The 3rd Axis adjustment (which should be done while you are at full draw) influences the rotational axis that your sight level moves on. In other words, it is like a door swinging open either toward the shooter or away. Both of which you do not want.

Instead, when you reach full draw, your bow’s bubble level should be exactly perpendicular to your line of sight. You don’t want the level to angle (or hinge) toward you or away from you. If it does, even if slightly, the difference in angle will be enough to ruin your uphill and downhill shots. This typically results in left and right misses.

Second and Third Axis adjustments are made differently depending on what type of sight you are using and the manufacturer. Therefore, it is best to refer to your owner’s manual when attempting to adjust them. My intent with this article isn’t to show you how to do it but the importance of doing it.

However, one universal tool that will be needed is a level that attaches to your bow. You can either purchase one or you can build your own. I built my own and spent the money I saved on something else hunting-related.

Conclusion

While you might be knee-deep in hanging tree stands and organizing trail camera images, don’t neglect the most important variable in your whitetail efforts-your bow. After all, nothing else matters if it isn’t tuned to its maximum potential. With Walk Back Tuning and 2nd and 3rd Axis adjustments, you can rest assured that it will be.

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Find the best hunting rangefinder is quite a task these days with so many great brands and options out there. Long gone are the days where you only had a few top picks to choose from.

Now, each and every hunter has to sort through all of these makes and models, and review each of their best features and characteristics. While today’s models are super advanced, they really haven’t made it easy for us hunters to figure out which one is best suited for our style of hunting.

The Quick Summary Overall, the Best Hunting Rangefinder is the Vortex Optics Crossfire HD!Below you can check out other top options including the… – Best Rangefinder For Bowhunting: Leupold RX-Fulldraw 5- Best Binocular With Rangefinder For Hunting: Vortex Optics Fury HD 5000- Most Affordable Hunting Rangefinder: TIDEWE Hunting RangefinderAnd scroll down to find out the one thing to avoid when picking your rangefinder!

This blog article was personally constructed after comparing my own notes from using a few of these models, to the thousands of reviews and comments out there on the internet.

Additionally, I also had to get on the phone with a few brands to clarify what these specific features mean and how they best help hunters when we’re out in the field.

Of course, I wasn’t able to list and review every single model out there, so I decided to categorize the top picks within a few select categories. These areas are heavily searched by hunters, and I think these choices will benefit hunters the most.

Trivia Question: Do you know when and where the first laser rangefinder was invented? (Click here to see answer).

Full Disclosure: Some of the links below may be affiliate links. If you follow an affiliate link and end up making a purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Best Rangefinder For Hunting

Vortex Optics Crossfire HD 1400

The Crossfire HD 1400 is the 2024 best rangefinder for hunting because it is perfect for both bow and rifle hunters, and offers a variety of features designed to enhance your hunting experience. With a maximum range of 1,400 yards and an HD optical system, this rangefinder lets you spot your targets with ease, no matter the environment.

The Crossfire HD 1400 has three target modes and two ranging modes, ensuring accurate readings. It also features a red TOLED display, making the readout clear in any lighting conditions. Despite its lightweight design, this rangefinder is built to last, with durable materials that can withstand the rigors of hunting and the great outdoors.

In conclusion, the Crossfire HD 1400 is the ultimate laser rangefinder for hunters. Its outstanding range, multiple modes, clear display, and lightweight, durable design make it the perfect choice for bow and rifle hunters alike. So if you’re looking for a reliable and versatile rangefinder to take your hunting game to the next level, be sure to check out the Crossfire HD 1400.

For latest prices, and more information about the Vortex Optics Crossfire HD 1400, click below!

Best Bowhunting Rangefinder

Leupold RX-Fulldraw 5

Alert to all bowhunters out there – We have a pick for you!

If you’re a bowhunter or competitive archer, you need a rangefinder that can keep up with you and your tough shots, look no further than the RX-FullDraw 5 – the most advanced archery rangefinder on the market. It uses your bow’s velocity, peep height, arrow weight, and shot angles to provide laser-accurate ranges tailored to your equipment.

But that’s not all – the RX-FullDraw 5 now accepts even lower velocity inputs, accommodating arrows as slow as 170 feet per second. And with its updated flightpath technology, you can choose from two modes to view arrow obstructions up to 85 yards away. Plus, the rangefinder’s Last Target mode can cut through rain, fog, and snow, ensuring accuracy even in challenging weather conditions.

With six times magnification, a bright red OLED display, and a speedy laser engine, the RX-FullDraw 5 gives you a clear advantage on the field. So if you’re looking for a rangefinder that’s customized to your archery gear and conditions, the RX-FullDraw 5 is the ultimate choice.

For latest prices, and more information on the Leupold RX-Fulldraw 5, take a look below!

Best Hunting Binocular With Rangefinder

Vortex Optics Fury HD 5000

The Fury HD 5000 is the ultimate laser rangefinder binocular for hunters, archers, and shooters. With 10x magnification and 42mm objective lenses, it provides an extremely effective and versatile tool for the field.

Its primary HCD mode displays an angle-compensated distance that’s perfect for most hunters and shooters, whether using a rifle or a bow. Choose from two target modes: Best Mode, which displays the strongest range result, and Last Mode, which displays the furthest distance and is ideal for ranging targets behind obstructions. With the Fury HD 5000, you’ll never miss a shot again.

For latest prices, and more information on the Vortex Optics Fury HD 5000, we have that as well!

Most Affordable Hunting Rangefinder

TIDEWE Hunting Rangefinder

The TideWe rangefinder offers 6x magnification and displays vertical and horizontal distance, speed, and can continuously scan all factors influencing your play. It accurately ranges from 3 to 1000 yards with fast measurements within +/- 1 yard and a measuring speed of <0.5s. It is lightweight at only 0.35lb and durable, made from strong materials to protect from drops and is weather-resistant.

This rangefinder is easy to use with a simple button push to get instant range data on an easy-to-read LCD display. It comes with a rechargeable Li-ion battery that can measure 20000 times after a full charge, has a clear LCD display, and an ergonomic design for comfortable handling.

And one last thing – the TideWe rangefinder features a popular camo pattern and includes a bag to save the rangefinder.

For latest prices, and more information on the TIDEWE Hunting Rangefinder, we have that as well!

Things To Consider When Choosing A Hunting Rangefinder

Maximum Distance

Comparing your next rangefinder’s max distance to your weapon of choice and style of hunting is going to be a key consideration point before making a final purchase.

Each manufacturer should properly list out their model’s maximum effective distance, but there’s one thing to keep in mind here….

Some models are only going to highlight the max range at a reflective target. As a hunter, you’ll want to check what that top range is going to be at ‘game’ – not just something that’s 100% reflective.

Pro Tip: Make sure your rangefinder has an angle compensation feature, especially if you hunt from a treesstand.

Ease Of Use & Display

Hunting rangefinders have evolved to offer amazing ranging capabilities, but not all of them offer these top features in an effective package.

If you want a rangefinder that’s going to properly adjust for elevation, wind & fog, choice of reticle, etc. it’s clear that you might have to toggle through a few options within your optical.

After analyzing what all your rangefinder can offer, make sure to spend the time figuring out how to enable these features. Most optimal options are going to offer a simple, single ‘Mode’ model button to toggle through everything. If you’re doing more than this, you might be getting yourself in a more complicated position.

Object Detection

When hunting in wooded areas, or in inclement weather, you need to have a rangefinder that’s going to successful pick up your desired object with minimal interference.

Hunting with a subpar optical in wind and fog, or having brush in between you and your prey can cause serious issues.

Make sure your new hunting rangefinder has some sort of technology that can properly eliminate these peripheral objects to identify what’s important. Not doing so can provide inaccurate range readings.

Hunting Style

Everything above and below in this article is going to come down to this one question – “What type of rangefinder do I need for my hunting style?”

Back in the day, you were ultimately stuck with only a few options when it came to rangefinders. Now, you have the option to choose binocular style, bow-specific, long range, etc.

Of course, you can always choose a more expensive model to take care of more than you need, but if you want to be a little more realistic be sure to compare the available features, alongside price points, to what you’re really going to be needing this for.

Most Popular Rangefinder FAQs

1. What Is A Hunting Rangefinder?

A hunting rangefinder is an optical instrument, typically handheld, that is used to determine the distance between a hunter and their prey.

2. How Do Rangefinders Work?

Rangefinders send a laser beam towards your target. An internal digital clock measures the time it takes for the beam to reach the target and back. It then calculates the distance based on that time.

3. What’s The Difference Between A Hunting And Golf Rangefinder?

All in all, there’s not a lot of core difference between hunting and golf rangefinders. Largely the difference comes in the different modes available, along with their associated price points.

4. How Much Do Rangefinders Cost?

On average, most hunting rangefinders are going to cost you between $100 and $600. While there are some cheaper than this, the quality starts to slip really quick. Lastly, any rangefinder above this price, those that range up to $2,000 are most likely going to be reserved for extreme hunters and guides.

5. What Outdoor Brands Make Rangefinders?

The top hunting rangefinder brands including the following:

1. Bushnell

2. Leupold

3. Nikon

4. Vortex

5. Mavin

6. Swarovski

6. Are There Good Rangefinder Options Under $200?

Yes, there are several great rangefinder options under $200. For an easy list of these, here’s a link to Amazon with the best hunting rangefinders under $200.

One Thing To Avoid!

Make Sure You Have Angle Compensation

Angle compensation is a crucial feature in any hunting rangefinders. It calculates the difference in elevation and provides an accurate reading as if you were shooting on level ground. Without it, the elevation change can create a false reading and result in a missed shot or a wounded animal.

For example, on a 30-degree angle slope with a line-of-sight shot distance of 500 yards, without angle compensation, you would aim for 500 yards. However, with angle compensation, you’ll need to shoot for 433 yards. So, if you’re in the market for a new hunting rangefinder, make sure you choose one with angle compensation.

Answer: The first laser rangefinder was invented in France in 1933.

For a blog about the Best Hunting Binoculars, take a look today!

For 35 years, Liberty Safe has been our best-selling brand. Based in Payson, Utah, Liberty’s premier production line is manned by Americans. It’s the only US manufacturer offering a full range of entry-level to high-end gun safes. However, we do offer many other U.S.-built safe brands that provide a Liberty Safe alternative.

Although Liberty is the household name, when it comes to quality U.S.-built safe manufacturers, others such as Browning, Champion, Superior, and Rhino offer alternatives to Liberty that might align with your needs. We compiled a short list to compare with Liberty Safes best sellers for your reference.

8 Liberty Safe Alternative Gun Safes

Although Liberty is the household name, when it comes to quality U.S.-built safe manufacturers, others — such as Browning, Champion, Superior, and Rhino — offer alternatives to Liberty that might align with your needs.

While we’re well-versed in the selection of gun safes for sale (you might even call us gun safe nerds), we know that comparing multiple brands can be confusing. The following list outlines Liberty’s best sellers and the closest American-made alternative.

DISCOUNTS & REBATES: The following prices listed below do not reflect any current sales and or rebates available. Additionally, we are currently offering 12-month same as cash financing to qualifying individuals.

1. Liberty Centurion Alternative: RHINO RBFX

Rhino is a veteran-owned gun safe manufacturer located in Caldwell, Idaho. It’s named after the fighter jet Don Suggs flew — a McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom. (A twin-jet, all-weather aircraft that had top speeds more than twice that of sound!) An innovative manufacturer, Rhino offers both a patented swing-out gun rack and their new patented SafeX™ Security System.

Liberty Centurion Price Range: $799 – $1,299 Fire Rating: 40 MinutesSteel: 14 Gauge

Rhino RBFX (Featuring Rhino’s Revolutionary New Anti-Pry Technology)Price Range: $1,309 – $1,938Fire Rating: 40 Minutes Steel: 14 Gauge

2. Liberty USA Alternative: none

We hate saying there’s no solution for something. Our team bends over backward to help customers achieve their goals. But when it comes to finding a Liberty safe alternative for the USA series, we can’t. There simply isn’t a comparable American-made gun safe at this price point at this time.

3. Liberty Colonial Alternative: BROWNING HUNTER SERIES

Browning can trace its roots back to 1878, when the Browning Arms Company was founded in Ogden, Utah. It made a name for itself as a sporting gun manufacturer. Over the decades, it has offered a wide assortment of outdoor gear — including gun safes.

Liberty ColonialPrice Range: $2,299 – $3,599Fire Rating: 75 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

Browning Hunter SeriesPrice Range: $2,469 – $3,669Fire Rating: 80 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

4. Liberty Fatboy Jr. Extreme Alternative: BROWNING HUNTER PATRIOTIC 49

In a head-to-head comparison, The Browning Hunter Patriotic 49 weighs 165 pounds more than the Fatboy Jr. Extreme and can hold one additional long gun. It’s also important to note that the Hunter Patriotic 49 is 11.5 inches taller, requiring a larger ceiling.

Liberty Fatboy Jr. ExtremePrice Range: $2,799 – $2,899Fire Rating: 75 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

Browning Hunter Patriotic 49Price Range: $3,389Fire Rating: 80 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

5. Liberty Franklin Alternative: BROWNING 1878 Series

Once again, this U.S.-built Liberty Safe alternative is a bit pricier. It also packs on a few more pounds, weighing roughly 75 pounds more than similarly sized safes within the Franklin series.

Liberty FranklinPrice Range: $2,899 – $4,899Fire Rating: 110 MinutesSteel: 12 Gauge

Browning 1878Price Range: $3,169 – $7,019Fire Rating: 90 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

6. Liberty Fatboy Alternative: BROWNING HELLS CANYON 49

Head-to-head, this is where we start to see more comparable safes from U.S. manufacturers. They offer similar footprints and storage capacity. One of the primary differences between these two safes is Liberty’s patented flat bar design.

Liberty FatboyPrice Range: $3,999 – $4,199Fire Rating: 110 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

Browning Hells Canyon 49Price Range: $4,389 – $4,969Fire Rating: 90 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

7. Liberty Lincoln Alternative: CHAMPION SUPERIOR MASTER SERIES

The Superior Master series produced by Champion offers top-tier security and uncompromising craftsmanship. It features thick, reinforced, pry-resistant doors — along with an intelligently designed interior to maximize long-gun and valuable storage.

Liberty Lincoln SeriesPrice Range: $4,099 – $6,599Fire Rating: 120 MinutesSteel: 10 Gauge

Champion Superior Master SeriesPrice Range: $3,599 – $7,899Fire Rating: 120 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

8. Liberty Presidential Alternative: AMERICAN SECURITY BFX SERIES

Established in 1946, American Security (aka AMSEC) manufactures some of the strongest gun safes and commercial safes in the world. The BFX series is its premier consumer gun safes. The series features a UL certified RSC burglary rating, aligned with an adjustable interior for customizable storage solutions.

Liberty Presidential SeriesPrice Range: $7,099 – $10,499Fire Rating: 150 Minutes (2.5 Hours)Steel: 70 Gauge

American Security BFX SeriesPrice Range: $5,752 – $9,667Fire Rating: 120 MinutesSteel: 11 Gauge

What to Know About Alternatives to Liberty Gun Safes

Liberty Safe Sells the Only Entry Level American-Made Long Gun Safe

If you want an American-made gun safe for $1,000 (or less), Liberty is your only option.

American Flags Look Cool. They Don’t Guarantee a Made-in-the-USA Safe.

We love Old Glory. And we think things decorated with her look pretty darn cool. But beware a wolf in sheep’s clothing because it’s not uncommon for a foreign gun safe manufacturer to print an American flag print on their product. The flag doesn’t mean it was actually made in the U.S.

Air rifle pellets have been traditionally made of lead or lead alloy. However, in recent years, manufacturers have experimented with different materials, such as bismuth and tin alloys, iron, zinc, and tin. Some pellets are even made of plastic. In this blog post, we will explore the different materials air rifle pellets can be made of and the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Why are airgun pellets made of lead?

The traditional material for airgun pellets is lead because it is soft and malleable. This means it can be deformed upon impact without shattering, which makes it ideal for use in air rifles. Lead is also relatively heavy for its size, which gives it good momentum when fired from an air rifle.

One of the disadvantages of lead pellets is that they can be harmful to the environment if not disposed of properly. Lead is a toxic metal that can leach into the soil and contaminate groundwater. It can also be harmful to animals if ingested. For these reasons, some countries have banned the use of lead pellets altogether.

Copper-coated airgun pellets

Copper-coated airgun pellets are made by coating a lead pellet with a thin layer of copper. The copper coating protects the lead core from corrosion and makes the pellet more aerodynamic. Copper-coated pellets are generally more accurate than traditional lead pellets because they are less affected by crosswinds.

The main disadvantage of copper-coated pellets is that they are more expensive than traditional lead pellets. Copper is a more expensive metal than lead, so copper-coated pellets typically cost 20-30% more than their lead counterparts.

Lead-free airgun pellets

Lead-free airgun pellets are made of alternative metals, such as alloys of bismuth and tin – or iron, zinc, and tin. These alternative metals are less dense than lead, so they are not as effective for long-range shooting. Lead-free pellets are also less aerodynamic than traditional lead pellets, so they are less accurate in crosswinds.

The advantage of lead-free pellets is that they are not harmful to the environment like traditional lead pellets can be. Lead is a toxic metal that can leach into the soil and contaminate groundwater. It can also be harmful to animals if ingested. For these reasons, some countries have banned the use of lead bullets altogether.

Conclusion

There are a few different materials that air rifle bullets can be made out of, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. The most common material has traditionally been lead or a lead alloy because it is soft and malleable ( meaning it can be deformed on impact without shattering) , relatively heavy ,and inexpensive . However ,lead bullets can be harmful to the environment if not disposed properly . As an environmentally friendly alternative , some people choose copper -coated bullets ,which despite being more aerodynamic and accurate ,are significantly more expensive . Finally , there are lead -free bullets made out of alternative metals such as bismuth ,tin ,iron ,zinc ,and plastic . While being eco -friendly ,these alternatives lack the range and accuracy of both traditional lead bullets and copper -coated bullets .

One of the most often-asked questions in bow hunting is what peep sight size should I be using?

Sorry to disappoint, there isn’t a black and white answer that would instantly custom match you with the right peep size for your setup. There are more than a couple factors that you need to consider before you get all gung-ho on going with the smallest or largest size you can find.

Like everything to do with bows, there’s quite a bit that goes into answering this question since it has a lot to do with your setup, hunting style, and vision.

We’ll talk you through the ins and outs of big and small peep sight sizes. By the end, you may be closer to determining what size will do you right in the field whether you’re sticking it out during the day, you’re out at first and last light, in the stand, or long-range hunting.

Peep Sights VS No Peep Sights

You know this has to be addressed. For the many peep users out there, there are just as many that go without. But, what exactly is a peep sight? It’s a string attachment that ensures line of sight alignment between your eye using the peep, sight housing, and the target.

Peep Sight Pros & Cons

Pros:

• Encourages consistent form/anchor point
• Enhance sight picture focus
• Can improve aim and accuracy
• Easy to use
• Inexpensive
• Available in various sizes

Cons:

• Can only use one eye
• Darkens sight picture
• Can twist out of place when string becomes worn

Of course, going peepless also has its own set of benefits. It forces you to become intimately familiar with consistent anchor points so you have the same form when shooting as when you sighted in your bow. You’ll also have instant low light visibility improvement, faster target acquisition time, and obviously you won’t have to deal with any peep sight alignment issues.

However, it takes practice and effort to get used to going peepless and making it an effective move on your part. Heavy emphasis on form can’t be overstated. Like many things to do with bows and shooting, you either like it or you don’t.

A vast majority of bow shooters still use peep sights, and they’re often pre-installed when you purchase your bow. With that in mind, here’s some peep sight sizes that could do it right for your type of hunting style.

Small Peep Sights for Hunting

Peeps with small diameter sizes are known to improve accuracy. Target and competition shooters may sport small peep sights because they offer a narrow aiming window.

During normal lighting conditions that are expected with daylight hunting, a small peep can actually offer better sight picture clarity since the aperture allows for enhanced focus on the target downrange.

However, if lighting conditions were to change such as going from open areas to thick timber with heavy shading or when it’s low light, your sight picture will become dark. Those with vision problems may not benefit from using a small peep right off the bat.

So, it goes without saying that a small peep would be suitable for hunters who require extreme accuracy, say for game with small kill zones. It would only be appropriate for daylight hunting when there’s as much light as possible, and only those with average to excellent eyesight could take advantage of a small peep.

Small peep sight sizes can include 1/32″, 3/64″, 1/16″, 3/32″, and 1/8″ being the largest of this lot.

It’s worth mentioning that long axle to axle bows would pair well with small peeps since the string comes closer to the eye.

Large Peep Sights for Hunting

Peeps with larger diameter sizes may not be as accurate-driven as small peep sights. They’re geared towards allowing more light in for a brighter sight picture in low light conditions or in heavily shaded areas. They’d also be appropriate for close range hunting to take advantage of the full field of view to appropriately aim your pin on the target.

Those with problematic eyesight and vision problems would be better suited with a large peep sight for hunting. Sacrificing the accuracy expected of a small peep size within forgivable boundaries in hunting is acceptable because of the large kill zones on animals such as deer and elk.

However, even if you prefer the larger peep size, you’ll still need it to properly fit your sight picture. If you have too much floating space around the sight housing ring while looking through the peep, you will run into accuracy and form issues.

If you’re a hunter that takes advantage of first and last legal light, may have aging eyes, and may be shooting from a stand and taking close range shots, then you might want to consider a bigger peep size.

Short axle to axle bows also pair well with large peeps since they have sharp string angles that forces the peep further away from the eye.

Large peep sizes can include 3/16″, 7/32″, 1/4″, and 5/16″.

How to Use a Peep Sight

Knowing how to use a peep sight might help you to determine what the best peep sight size will be for your setup. The most popular sizing method is to opt for the peep that fits the sight housing ring. What do we mean by this? There are two different ways to use a peep sight.

Method 1:

At full draw, you center the pin you need to aim with within the middle of the peep sight. Depending on what pin you use, you may or may not see part of the top or bottom of the sight housing within the peep sight view.

Method 2:

The entire sight housing ring must match the peep sight ring. You have an unobstructed view of all pins, full field of view, and the sight housing ring matches perfectly with the peep sight.

Method 2 is the recommended way to use a peep sight since it encourages you to choose the most appropriate peep size for your setup. It also ensures your anchor point remains the same regardless of what pin you need to aim with. Slightly move at the waist to get the right pin on your target’s kill zone.

Method 1 is still used by some, however, it can cause a drop in your anchor point to get your bottom pins centered. Moving your anchor point means inconsistent form, reduced accuracy, and can be a complete miss.

Trying out a few different sizes while at a dealer will also help to narrow down what size works best for your setup. If you plan on using the same bow for multiple activities no matter the time of day or lighting conditions, you can save time finding the right peep sight size and opt for a specialty peep sight.

Specialty Archery Peep Sights

These types of sights may be adjustable in diameter, easily interchangeable to be transferred from bow to bow, and are completely compatible to be used with different bow sights. They are typically more expensive than your average one-size peep, but the cost may be worth it if your needs require the specialty features.

You might also be interested in what peep accessories such as a clarifier and verifier can do for your sight picture.

Only You Know the Answer

Outfitting the perfect peep to match your setup is a personal touch. Your vision is needed to confirm whether a certain peep will work for you.

Although trying out different peeps might be tedious, it’ll be worth it in the end. Taking the time to properly prep your gear for the hunt will improve your odds for success. At the very least, you won’t be one of them who loses the shot for whatever reason because you have the wrong size peep!

Further Reading

• How to Measure Scope Ring Height (With Pics & Calculations)
• How to Adjust a Rifle Scope: 6 Scope Adjustments Explained!
• How to Level a Scope on a Rifle [Step-by-Step With Pics]
• What is a Rifle Scope Ruler (Mildot Master) & How to Use It?
• What is a Prism Scope? Prism VS Reflex VS LPVO!

Trolling fishing is a popular technique used by anglers to catch this prized freshwater game fish. The method involves dragging one or more baited lines or lures behind a moving boat at varying speeds and depths until a walleye takes the bait.

Trolling for walleye can be done on freshwater lakes or rivers, and requires specialized equipment and techniques to be successful. Walleye trolling can be a fun and challenging way to target these elusive fish and is a favorite among many anglers.

Trolling Fishing A Historical Overview

Walleye trolling has been practiced for many years, with the first recorded use of this technique dating back to the early 1900s.

At the time, anglers used hand-cranked reels to drag baited lines behind their boats.

As technology improved, the method became more efficient with the development of electric trolling motors and other specialized equipment.

Today, walleye trolling is a popular sport enjoyed by anglers all over the world, and has even led to the development of specialized boats and equipment designed specifically for this type of fishing.

Despite the advancements in technology, the basic principles of trolling fishing for walleye remain the same – drag a baited line or lure behind a moving boat to attract and catch walleye.

Essential Gear for Successful Walleye Trolling Fishing

To be successful at trolling fishing for walleye, you’ll need a few key pieces of equipment.

The first is a trolling rod and reel setup, which should be strong enough to handle the weight of your lures and the fight of a walleye.

Look for a trolling rod that is at least 7 feet in length and has a medium-heavy power rating. Using a sensitive fishing rod can aid in detecting bites and setting the hook properly

Opting for a reel with a smooth drag system can assist in wearing down a walleye and reducing the risk of line breakage. A drag system that is rated for at least 10-12 pounds can help you handle a larger walleye.

The Penn Fathom Lever Drag 2 is an excellent option to consider.

With its user-friendly design and lever drag system, this reel provides a smooth and intuitive experience.

A level wind reel is ideal for trolling, as it distributes line evenly across the spool and can help prevent tangles.

A downrigger or planer board can help you get your lures to the right depth and keep them there.

Investing in a quality trolling rod and reel setup can make a big difference in your success when trolling for walleye.

You’ll also need a trolling motor or an outboard motor that is powerful enough to move your boat at a slow and steady pace.

Boats Suitable For Trolling Fishing

Having the right boat can make a big difference in your success.

Ideally, you’ll want a boat that is stable, maneuverable, and has plenty of space for you and your gear.

A flat-bottomed boat, such as a jon boat or a bass boat, can be a good choice for trolling, as they offer good stability and maneuverability in calm waters.

Alternatively, a larger boat with a deep-V hull can be a good choice if you plan to fish in rougher waters or if you need more space and storage for your gear.

Equipping your boat with a trolling motor and depth finder can assist you in navigating the water and identifying the prime locations for trolling fishing.|

To ensure a successful fishing trip, it’s crucial to have a high-quality net and cooler on hand.

Trolling Motors For Walleye Trolling

There are many great trolling motors available in the market, but one of the best options for trolling for walleye is the Minn Kota Endura C2 55. This motor is known for its reliability, durability, and quiet operation. It has a 55-pound thrust, making it powerful enough to handle rough water conditions and strong currents. Additionally, it features a telescoping handle, allowing for easy control and maneuverability. Overall, the Minn Kota Endura C2 55 is an excellent choice for any angler looking for a quality trolling motor for walleye fishing.

Best Lures and Baits for Walleye Trolling

Walleye are often attracted to lures that mimic the movements of their natural prey, such as minnows or leeches.

The best walleye lure baits can vary depending on factors such as water temperature, time of day, and the specific body of water you’re fishing

Recommended baits are crankbaits, spinnerbaits, and spoons. Designed to attract walleye.

A depth finder or fish finder is also useful for locating schools of walleye.

It also helps determining the depth at which they are feeding.

Recommendations For Lures Based On Water Depth

Less than 15 feet a floating crankbait or spinner rig can be effective.

These lures can be trolled at a slow speed near the surface, which can attract walleye that are feeding on smaller baitfish.

15-30 feet. A deep diving crankbait or a jig and plastic tail can work well in medium depth water.

These lures can be trolled at a moderate speed to get them down to the right depth and keep them there.

Use a downrigger for depths over 30 feet.

A deep diving crankbait or a spoon can work well in deep water, as they can replicate the movements of larger baitfish that walleye may be feeding on.

Speed And Depth For Walleye Trolling

Speed and depth are critical factors to consider when trolling for walleye.

Generally, a speed of 1.5 to 2.5 miles per hour is a good starting point for trolling.

You may need to adjust your speed based on the behavior of the fish and the conditions of the water.

If you’re not getting bites, try slowing down or speeding up your trolling speed to see if that makes a difference.

As a general rule, walleye tend to be found at deeper depths during the day and shallower depths in the early morning or evening.

Using a depth finder can be helpful in determining the ideal depth for your lure.

Once you’ve found the right depth, be sure to maintain a consistent speed and depth as you troll to maximize your chances of getting a bite.

Tips for Avoiding Snags and Tangles

Snags and tangles are a common problem when trolling for walleye, and can quickly become frustrating if you’re constantly having to untangle your lines or retrieve snagged lures.

One of the best ways to avoid snags is to keep your lure at the right depth for the conditions of the water you’re fishing in.

Using a line counter reel can be helpful in keeping track of the depth of your lure and reducing the risk of snags.

Locations for Trolling Fishing for Walleye

Wisconsin is home to some of the best walleye trolling locations in the United States.

One of the most popular destinations for walleye fishing in the state are Green Bay & Lake Winnebago.

Green Bay is located in northeastern Wisconsin.

The bay covers an area of over 1,600 square miles and has an average depth of only 20 feet.

Ideal habitat for walleye. Some of the most productive areas for walleye trolling in Green Bay include the waters around the Fox River, the Pensaukee River, and the Oconto River.

Known for producing some of the largest walleye catches in the country.

Other notable lakes for walleye trolling in Wisconsin include Lake Michigan, and Lake Superior.

When choosing a location to troll for walleye, it’s important to consider factors such as water temperature, depth, and structure.

Walleye tend to be most active in water temperatures between 55-68°F and are often found near structures such as drop-offs, weed beds, and submerged rock piles.

It’s also important to pay attention to weather conditions, as changes in wind and cloud cover can affect the feeding patterns of walleye.

Enjoy Your Trip Walleye Trolling Fishing

Don’t forget to take in the scenery and appreciate the beauty of the great outdoors while you’re out on the water.

Anglers are required to obtain a fishing license and follow specific size and bag limits for different fish species.

It is important to avoid damaging habitats and follow proper waste disposal methods to avoid polluting waterways. Grab your gear, head out to your favorite fishing spot, and enjoy the thrill of trolling for walleye.

Guided Walleye Fishing With Captain Lonney

For 25 years Green Bay Trophy Fishing has guided and provided helpful information to anglers in and around Door County. We are some of the most experienced fishing guides in Green Bay and pride ourselves on being experts on everything related to fishing in the area.

If you are interested in booking a walleye fishing charter, you can view our rates or contact us here.

Anyone interested increasing their self reliance, going off-grid, or simply providing for their family when times get tough should be heavily focused on creating a productive and sustainable food source. The foundational building block for this is a survival garden.

Providing enough food to sustain your family can seem like a daunting proposition that would require several acres of land. But with a little planning and consideration, you can create a productive garden that will serve you and your family well all year long.

What is a Survival Garden?

The simplest explanation would be that it is a garden capable of growing the food you and your family need to survive (or at least a large portion of it) until the next growing season.

This may seem straightforward, but when you break it down and see how many calories, vitamins, and minerals you need to replace daily to stay healthy, you realize there has to be some serious planning and consideration put into it.

Survival gardening has a critical urgency about it, and doesn’t have to be pretty.

If you’ve seen the movie “The Martian”, you can use the example of Mark Watney, who formulates a plan to survive the harsh climate of Mars by potato farming in his own feces. Is it going to make the cover of Better Homes and Gardens? No. Did it keep him alive? Yes.

When you consider how important food security is to your family, there is no reason not to do everything in your power to make the most effective survival garden possible.

In addition to keeping you alive, there are a few other reasons why having your own garden is beneficial:

• Health Benefits: Starting a garden for the resulting health benefits alone is worth it. Do you know what most people do when they have access to fresh, free produce? They eat tons more of it! Even if you are relatively careful with what you eat, increasing your produce consumption will always benefit you.
• The Money: Eating your own produce can save you some significant coin. And to top it off, you could also take it to the very same markets where you used to spend your money and make some money. You probably will not get rich, but you’ll certainly be able to offset some costs.
• Help Feed People in Need: In times where you’re not depending on every calorie from your survival garden to feed your family, another option is to donate the surplus to a local food bank or family in need. The extra potatoes and carrots you are tired of seeing in the cellar could be the reason someone’s kid has a little more to eat.

Survival Garden Layout Examples

If you are trying to provide a chunk of your family’s calories from the homestead, then you need to be really smart about your survival garden layout.

So what do survival gardens look like? Well, that question has a lot of answers. There are many different types of gardens, each with their own corresponding perks and benefits.

It is perfectly acceptable to use a pre-established clearly defined archetype, or you could take your inspiration from several styles and create something unique to your situation and property.

Here are some terrific and time-tested survival garden layouts to help get your wheels spinning:

1. Square Foot Gardening

Square foot gardening was originally devised as a way to teach growing capabilities and capacities to people in underserved areas. They can be made in nearly any size or configuration.

There are some solid reasons you might choose to follow a square foot gardening format. The planting guidelines prevent crowding while helping to maximize the space available and eliminate the wasted space of row planting. Similar plants are grown in non-linear configurations as they would in the wild so that they are not crowded out and can reach optimal size.

This same aim of efficient use of space also applies to how the garden is physically built. It is a raised bed that is visually divided by materials like wooden dowels, string, or twine tacked into a square-foot grid. This allows the cultivation of personal amounts of produce, in small areas, with little need to travel.

As they are raised beds, less bending is needed, so they are less work to maintain.

2. Victory Gardens

The victory garden is seeing a comeback in these uncertain and turbulent times. While it started as a way to reduce reliance on staples in order to free up rations during the second world war, it is once again enjoying a resurgence in popularity.

Victory gardens are designed to provide most of what a family of two to four people will need for much, if not all, of the year. With a high reliance on beans, drying and preservation will be crucial for maximizing the usefulness of the garden.

3. Keyhole Gardens

Keyhole gardens are perfect for hot and particularly dry climates. They consist of a wide round garden that is several feet deep and has a small radial arc of material removed.

With this material removed, the gardener can stand in the center of the garden, with the produce at approximately waist height. All areas of the garden can be reached easily by the gardener with very little strain on the back.

Since they are so deep, a key benefit of constructing keyhole gardens is their resistance to drought. Cardboard layered into the soil also helps to prevent water loss through evaporation. The center is preferred to be a compost bin with a base of rock at least the size of gravel, to facilitate drainage. As the material in the bin composts and is watered into the surrounding soil, it helps feed the crops in the garden.

Keyhole gardens do not make especially efficient use of space, since they are often quite a bit deeper than simple raised beds, but they do offer an extremely rich substrate to grow in.

Since they are fed by the compost, as well as being primarily watered from there, keyhole gardens are perfect for root vegetables like carrots, radishes, and beets, and leafy vegetables like spinach, lettuce, chard, and herbs.

4. The Permaculture Food Forest

One of the hallmarks of a permaculture style “food forest” is that it’s typically not in 1 specific “garden.” Rather, the plants and trees making up a food forest are strategically scattered throughout an area, to take advantage of microclimates, optimal growing conditions, and companion plantings as much as possible.

If you have a larger area and are looking to build an extremely diverse and naturally productive garden, creating a food forest modeled on permaculture principles might be the perfect option.

The benefits of permaculture systems are myriad. They not only focus on boosting biodiversity across the board, they also promote function stacking.

For example, a portion of the food forest may utilize clover as part of the ground cover. Clover could “stack functions” by not only preventing weeds, but also acting as a nitrogen-fixer, increasing the available nitrogen for neighboring plants. A 3rd function of a clover ground cover could be that it’s a source of pollen for important pollinators like bees and butterflies. This mentality will extend to many aspects of gardening and is the foundation for the entire permaculture model.

5. The Backyard Homestead Layout

The concept of a “homestead” is one that feels bigger than just a vegetable garden. Instead, a homestead typically incorporates fruit trees, perennial plants like berries, animals like chickens and goats, honey bees, or any number of other things. Still, at its core, the goal of a homestead is in line with survival gardening-support and sustain the lives of the people living there.

The Backyard Homestead Book is a popular and info-packed resource for planning maximum food production, even on postage-stamp-sized lots in the city and suburbs. It has a comprehensive walk-through of all the pertinent info you need to begin your journey towards self-sufficiency and self-reliance.

It covers the basics like garden design and crops to plant, but then it takes things a step further, by covering material on food preservation, highlighting methods like pickling, canning, even drying, and dehydration. This gem will help you through the entire food production process, from seed to snack.

6. Self Sufficient Backyard Layout

This is one of those resources that you can keep on your bookshelf, and every time you read it you seem to find something new and useful in it.

It is written by a couple that would be considered modern-day pioneers, living a lifestyle that includes growing their own food all year, collecting water, producing natural remedies from foraged plants, and using renewable energy.

It is a great book for anyone looking to begin the transition to a more self-sufficient lifestyle, or anyone wanting to learn how to effectively use just a quarter acre to produce food and energy for their own family.

What should I grow in my survival garden?

That is a very open-ended question, but we can start to narrow it down by your growing zone and garden location. It is important to have a large variety of nutrient-dense vegetables, and ideally ones that can also be stored in some long term fashion, whether it is by canning, drying and dehydrating, pickling, or cellar storage.

Proteins & Fats

You will need plenty of protein and fats in your diet. Protein is needed to build and maintain muscle mass and fats are needed as a source of energy.

• Nut trees: Hazelnuts, hickory nuts, walnuts, pecans, chestnuts, and so many others. The options for nut trees that will grow in the US is impressive. Nuts can provide a source for healthy unsaturated fats, as well as omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, and are full of vitamins and minerals.
• Chickens: While not a vegetable, you certainly can raise chickens in your garden area. You will need to take some infrastructure precautions to ensure they do not eat your plants, but letting them free range in the area will keep your gardens largely bug free, and cut down or eliminate the need for separate feeding.
• Beans: An important source of vegetarian protein, beans and other legumes also provide ample fiber and a robust dose of antioxidants. Even if you are growing chickens or other livestock for meat, beans will be a vital source of supplemental off-season protein.

Carbs

Carbohydrates are forms of sugars that occur in starchy or fibrous foods. They are an energy source and are broken down and metabolized into either long-term or short-term energy.

• Potatoes: Potatoes are a fantastic and long-storing carbohydrate. It is an easily grown root vegetable that stores well and can be used in countless ways. A smart planting of potato slips can contribute hundreds of pounds of potatoes for your stores.

• Corn: A relatively fast-growing cereal grain, corn is very versatile and can be used and stored in many ways. With minimal processing, it can also be converted to feed, flour, alcohol and fuel.

• Beans: You thought we ran through all the benefits of beans? Nope! Beans will also fill a slot for complex cards, giving you a source for the long term, all-day energy you are going to need to keep your homestead running.

• Squash: A plant that is incredibly nutritious and versatile, squash is another vegetable that can store easily, in its native state, for long periods. The meat is generally eaten roasted or steamed.

• Peas: Peas are a good source of starches, like potatoes, they are great thickeners. They are high in fiber, protein, and vitamins A, B6, C, and K.

Vitamins and Micronutrients

Vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients help your body to function by providing essential components to support bodily processes.

• Chard: A leafy green that is great in salads, and adds a splash of color. A common ingredient in healthy diets, both the leaves and the stalks can be eaten.

• Spinach: A super healthy leafy green. Loaded with antioxidants and nutrients, and a great source of iron.

• Garlic: Closely related to onions, garlic is in the same family as leeks, shallots, and chives. Garlic is a long-standing favorite and is used to season cuisines the world over.

• Broccoli: The tiny trees that are the bane of every child’s dinner plate. One of the most versatile plants, can be eaten raw or cooked, and the leaves, stalk, and flowering head can all be eaten. Growing broccoli provides a great return on investment.

• Cauliflower: Another relative of the mustard plant, cauliflower often resembles cheese curd but has a texture that couldn’t be more different.

• Kale: A close relative of cabbage, kale is packed with nutrients and vitamins. Care should be exercised not to eat kale to an excess, however, as it contains a compound that can interfere with thyroid hormone synthesis.

• Cabbage: Is a leafy green that gives a tremendous amount of leaves on each densely packed head. They can grow very large and can be stored for long periods and used as needed, like potatoes and other staples. A great source of vitamins K and C, along with significant dietary fiber.

Medicinals

You may want to consider adding a section in your garden to contain your medicinal plants. These are plants that can be used to treat common ailments like headaches, inflammation, and pain. Often made into teas, salves, or pastes. Common medicinal plants you may want to consider include:

• Calendula: known to be an antifungal, antiseptic, healer of wounds.
• Cilantro: Helps digestion, possibly linked to heavy metal removal from the body.
• Lemon Balm: Relaxing effects with possible antiviral properties.
• Peppermint: Helps with digestion if brewed in tea, and soothes aches when applied topically.
• Rosemary: Increases oxygen to the brain, a great alternative to caffeine.
• Mullein: Can help heal respiratory infections.

How much space do I need to grow it all in?

That is probably the best part about a survival garden-there is no one single way to do it that will be best. Do what is right for you and your circumstances. This means it is extremely easy to adapt this information to your needs. From tiny urban gardens to acres of country land, there is something for everyone.

Urban gardens are growing in popularity and are becoming more widely permitted. There is a push in many urban centers for green rooftops to reduce HVAC load and provide additional food for building residents.

Agriscaping is transforming common landscapes into productive agricultural spaces. This can look like neighborhood food forests or fruit and nut trees alongside the street in place of ornamentals. Many neighborhoods have begun creating spaces that function as both food forests and community gardening space.

All that said however, one of the early contributors to SCP Survival shared the following recommendation from her grandma who was a serious gardener at the turn of the century:

Grandma Carrie’s Rule of Thumb (how big does my garden need to be?)

Grandma Carrie grew and preserved everything that her family ate in the late 1880’s and early 1900’s short of wheat, sugar, salt and spices. Her garden was well over a quarter acre. And she had a rule of thumb – One quart per person, per day.

Since she was feeding ten people she would need to can 3,650 quarts of fruits and vegetables. Add to that the crops that went into the root cellar, some crops were dried and stored in burlap bags, milk and eggs were gathered year ‘round, animals were butchered as needed and the meat was stored in crocks.

To supply each member of the family with their “quart a day” you should plan approximately 1,000 to 2,500 square feet of garden space for each person. This amount depends on soil fertility, the crops you choose to grow, methods of cultivation, and the length of your growing season. Other food sources like fruit trees and livestock also play a huge part in the amount of vegetables you need.

A 2,000 square foot garden would be a 40 foot by 50 foot section of your property. This can be a pretty significant undertaking especially if you have no experience gardening. Crops such as squash and cucumbers require significantly more space than spinach, Swiss chard, carrots, onions and beets. Peas, tomatoes and some beans do best with a fence, cage or pole to grow UP on which decreases the square feet necessary.

Here are some rough estimates on space to yield for feeding four people for one year:

*Estimate based on ½ whole and ½ sauce

This chart would be 2,018 square feet of growing space without any paths in between them. I have given the yield in quarts but to have a better idea if this would suit your family, you will probably want to consider pints (or twice as many jars half the size). For example, one pint of beets would probably be adequate for a meal for four people, a 100 foot row will yield around 48 pints which would provide enough beets for one meal a week for a year.

This chart provides 657 quarts plus potatoes, about half of Grandma Carrie’s rule of thumb.

What is the best location for my survival garden?

You will want to make sure you evaluate all possibilities before deciding where to put your garden. Make sure you consider the exposure to the sun, water, soil, and how easy it will be for you to access it as often as you will need to.

Most people think about the first few, but not everyone considers access. The last thing you want to do is put a big garden plot in what you think is a perfect place, only to have to lug all your gardening equipment or any tools you need, to a garden that is now quite inconvenient to get to.

When considering your garden’s placement, you will naturally have to consider the sun and water placement. If you live in the northern hemisphere, you will want to make sure your garden is south of your house, or far enough north of your house that it will not lie in its shadow. Use this same logic when plating. When possible plant so that the taller crops, like corn, on the north end of the garden bed, so that they do not cast a shadow over the other plants.

One of the principles of permaculture is the zones of use. The mindset being that you do not want to expend excess energy to get to things you use all the time, and things that are largely self-managing should be the farthest away. It also simplifies care and harvesting. The zones of use are:

1. Zone 1 is the most visited area or areas. This zone will have things that either need daily attention or that you use daily. Examples of things to grow in zone 1 are seedlings, salad components, cooking herbs, or anything that needs daily water, like a lemon tree. Believe it or not, animals are ideally sited in Zone 1.
2. Zone 2 are things that still need attention, but not specifically daily. If your particular setup allows for it, zone 2 is irrigated. Zone 2 is also mulched. Examples of zone 2 plants would be smaller fruiting trees and trellised fruit vines, bramble berries like blackberries, raspberries, and blueberries. This is also the zone that contains windbreaks, ponds, and barrier hedges. Plants that are only harvested once or twice per season belong here like potatoes and corn.
3. Zone 3 is semi-managed. An example of zone 3 plants would be large and mature fruit and nut trees. It is not mulched, nor visited on any regular basis.
4. Zone 4 is a minimally managed area for foraging wild foods and growing timber.
5. Zone 5 is completely and entirely unmanaged. All pure native plants and wildlife.

Keep in mind what you will eventually be planting, and be sure to plant companions together when possible. The main idea of companion planting is that you plant different crops together, they help sustain each other and ensure you have a strong and fruitful harvest.

Companions can be used for pest deterrents, balancing out nutrients, and attracting pollinators. For instance:

• Tomatoes work very well with beans, chives, and oregano, but not with corn, dill, and potatoes.
• If you want a successful cucumber and squash harvest, plant corn, beans, or radishes with them.
• If you have pine trees on your property, be careful not to place your garden where the shed needles fall, since they make the soil very acidic.

For more on companion planting, check out this comprehensive guide.

Knowing Your Soil is Crucial

The quality of your soil is the imperative. Much more needs to be done to prepare a garden space than simply digging up the lawn. “Friability”, or easy to crumble is normally the first obstacle to overcome. Grasses can grow in clay – or cracks in asphalt for that matter but vegetables need lose, crumbly, loamy soil. Amendments need to be made in the way of compost, perhaps sand and possibly nutrients to alter the pH level.

How do you intend to water your garden? Tomatoes for example, need to be soaked 6-8 inches deep every 5-10 days depending on the heat and amount of rain you have. If the grid is down, is your water down? If you are collecting water in a rain barrel, do you intend to drip irrigate or hand water? Is one barrel enough? Do you have all the materials on hand now?

Want Some Extra Credit? Here Are Some Gardening “Force Multipliers”

The following are tools or techniques used to be more effective at reaching your objective of producing enough food to survive. They help you get the most out of your garden by helping to create ideal conditions, one way or another, for your crops.

Greenhouse

A greenhouse is one of the common things that people think of when picturing a large garden set up. A greenhouse is a large open building that is largely transparent or translucent, allowing in sunlight, but also sealed against the outside elements.

Utilizing a large amount of solar gain, greenhouses are able to trap solar energy in the form of heat, and can often be used to extend the growing season.

Greenhouses can be used to grow later into the year, in order to gain an extra harvest or two, and also to begin earlier each year, by providing a warm place to germinate seeds and give plants a head start before transplanting to the soil once the threat of frost has passed.

Cold Frames

Cold frames use the same principles of trapping solar energy as greenhouses but on a much smaller scale. Cold frames are made from a wooden box similar to a raised bed, frequently angled toward the south. They will usually have a windowed lid, often made from an upcycled home window that is attached to the top with a hinge so that it can tilt open for easy access to the contents.

Cold frames are frequently used in the same manner as full-size greenhouses, to either continue growing past the fall frost dates or to gain an early start by germinating seeds and plant starts before they would normally be able to be put in the ground.

Row Covers

Row covers are also known as low tunnels. A crucial force multiplier for those who utilize planting rows for their crops, row covers can protect from freezing temperatures, wind, and pests.

They are essentially tiny hoop houses that run the length of the planting rows. They are very low to the ground and often only allow around 1-2 feet of clearance for the plants they cover, and as such are only suitable for very young plants or those that grow close to the ground like root vegetables and greens. They help keep the soil in the row warm for early season starts, and for late-season harvests.

Chickens or livestock

Introducing chickens or other small livestock to your survival garden can have several benefits. Not only will they create manure that will be essential to your composting and fertilizing capabilities, but they also can help reduce pests and insects.

People do not give chickens enough credit, they are amazing little omnivores. They eat just about any organic matter you allow them to, but they will also meet you halfway on the cleanup, tilling most of their waste directly into the soil. You do need to keep an eye on them, and make sure that they aren’t sick. If so, there are a handful of DIY chicken doctoring things you can do own your own.

Guinea fowl are another valuable addition, frequently eating so many nuisance insects like ticks, that they will not need any supplemental feeding. Using livestock in conjunction with a rotating pasture system will allow you to always have perfectly fertilized and productive soil ready for planting, while your livestock always has fresh ground to work.

Composting

Generating your own compost is an incredibly valuable process for anyone seeking to grow large amounts of high-quality produce.

Composting is the breaking down of common solid organic matter by aerobic bacteria. It is used to recycle organic material into nutrient-rich material called compost that is similar to humus. It is one of the best soil amendments and can be a valuable fertilizer for self-sustaining gardeners.

Vermicomposting

Similar to composting, the goal of vermicomposting is to create a nutrient dense growing medium from discarded organic materials. The basic process is the same, the organic matter that would normally be discarded is added to the compost pile, decomposed aerobically, and turned into a usable highly fertile soil material.

The difference is that in normal composting the main agent breaking down the matter is aerobic bacteria and other organisms, and with vermicomposting that process is accelerated through the use of earthworms to break down the material faster and more thoroughly than without.

Rainwater harvesting

One of the most valuable resources for gardeners, water, literally falls from the sky. With a little preparation and sweat equity, a rain catchment system can quickly and easily be implemented, allowing the storage of large quantities of water for later use.

Rainwater harvesting is often done with a minimum of special equipment, generally requiring little more than a roof, a gutter with a downspout, and a rain barrel or water tank. Provided measures are taken to discard the water contained in the “first flush” which will contain debris and contaminants that should be allowed to wash away before collection begins, rainwater can easily be made potable.

Earthworks and Landforms

A very effective method of large scale gardening and permaculture resource management is to create earthworks to help control water flow and erosion. These methods can include:

Ditches

Ditches are essentially a trenched drainage device. Ditches are going to be fairly deep and narrow, allowing an easy way to direct high volumes of water that will also be fast-moving.

A ditch will often be used to prevent a surge of water volume from eroding other portions of the gardening or crop areas. For example, ditches may be utilized to funnel water runoff from a large rainstorm away from delicate beds of greens or herbs, and directed to a swale where it can be spread out over a larger area, slowed down, and allowing the water to settle and soak in.

Swales

Swales are large, open, gentle depressions that follow the contour of the land, allowing stormwater runoff a place to slow down and spread out over a larger area, eventually facilitating settling and absorption.

They are broad and shallow and are only slightly depressed when compared to the surrounding area. Swales are perfect for filtering runoff, immobilizing contaminants, pollutants, and particulates by allowing them to settle and be filtered by the surrounding soil.

Hugelkultur

Often thought of as the perfect companion to swales, the hugelkultur or more simply “hugel”, is a hill or a mound for growing, that is built on a foundation of a pile of felled trees or rotten wood. It is ultra-low maintenance and drought-resistant garden and earthworks feature that will produce a fertile mound of growing medium that only gets more productive over the years as the wood continues to rot and release nutrients into the soil around it.

While it takes a good bit of effort to physically construct the hugel, it will compound the benefits it offers over the years. For the first several years after its creation, the aerobic decomposition will have an exothermic effect on the soil, giving you a longer growing season.

In the years following that, the wood will begin to shrink and will create voids that allow a self tilling effect to take place. The rotting wood will also hold water like a sponge, retaining large amounts of water that are automatically released into the surrounding soil, combating dry conditions, and reducing or eliminating the need for separate irrigation.

The main thing to remember with hugels is to use wood in the core that will rot and decay. Do not use any rot-resistant or allelopathic woods like cedar, black walnut, l7 or black locust. They will not rot, and will actually inhibit microbial growth, significantly reducing the desirable effects produced by the decomposition.

Preservation and Long Term Storage

While the short term goal with your garden is to feed yourself and your family, the long-term goal is to have a decent stockpile of survival foods. There are many methods that you can utilize that will allow you to save your harvest and to feed your family over a tough winter or in an emergency.

Root Cellars

One of the oldest long-term storage methods, root cellars work to preserve and store food by using the cool dampness of being underground to their advantage. Root cellars are nice and cool, but still above 32°. They are also humid which allows vegetables to retain their moisture and preventing them from turning rubbery. In addition to root vegetables, cellars are great for storing nuts, seeds, and even some fruits and vegetables.

Canning

Canning is a great way to save meats, stews, veggies, and jams for later use. With canning, you use mason jars to store and preserve your foods and either pressure or hot water method to seal them. The lids of the jar have a wax ring that seals to the rim of the jar. If left in a cool, dark place, home-canned items can be stored for a year or more.

Dehydration

Dehydration is a fantastic way to preserve your favorite fruits, vegetables, and even herbs and meats! Some items you will want to eat in the dried form such as apple chips, others you may want to rehydrate by soaking in hot water or adding to soups and stews.

Seed Saving

While most seeds you won’t be eating, saving your seeds is an easy way to get a jump on your garden for next year. Saving the seeds from fruits and vegetables that you grew this year allows you to cut down on your gardening costs in the future. Heirloom seed preservation is also important for genetic diversity and can be traded and sold.

Getting Started

There are many articles out there inferring that preppers should buy seeds packaged for long term storage so that when the shit hits the fan they can dig up part of the lawn and grow their own food. This is a woefullly misguided notion. Remember, the time to start learning is not when you are hungry.

Once you have taken all the factors into consideration and chosen a location, it is time to plan out your garden. Make a sketch on some graph paper of your garden, and get that seed catalog handy. If you need help planning it, the Farmers Almanac has a very easy to use garden planner.

Once your garden is prepared, your layout is decided, and your seeds have arrived, you probably want to get planting, but you might be wondering when is the best time to start. The good news is, every season has things that can be planted, whether you are in spring, summer, or fall, there are plants that should be going in the ground to get ready for the upcoming growing season.

You might think that because you weren’t ready until late August, you may have missed the summer season. And you would be right! But that’s alright, late-season brassicas do well, and fall is the perfect time to get some garlic and onions in the ground. The same goes for spring and summer, there is always something that needs to get in the ground soon in order to be ready for the upcoming season.

Winter is the perfect time of year to solidify next year’s garden plan. It is time to inventory the pantry to evaluate the most popular crops and adjust the garden space allotments accordingly. Heirloom seeds are inventoried, new seeds are ordered and indoor starts are planted.

Need An Easy Way To Start? Try the 3 Sisters

If you are eager to get started with an easy garden, you may want to try out a small plot with a “3 sisters garden”. This is a method that has been used for thousands of years to grow multiple crops in one place simultaneously, and is a perfect example of function stacking and utilizing natural architecture. This layout can also be adapted to nearly any type of garden.

You will plant beans (generally a pole bean), sweet corn, and squash. The rationale behind the companion plants here is that the corn provides a sturdy stalk for the beans to climb, while the squash leaves shade the soil, minimizes water loss, and prevents weeds, and the beans fix nitrogen in the soil for the corn and the squash to excel.