If you have already become a happy owner of a pneumatic gun or are just about to become one, this article about handling weapons safely is for you. Remember that any gun is not a toy, and you should follow a number of rules regarding the installation and removal of the tank, loading, and unloading of the gun, handling and taking care of the guns.

Do not demonstrate the gun in a large crowd of people, as this may mislead those around you, and they may mistake it for a firearm. Be sure to read all instructions before using a gun and remember that you must follow all of them (handling & possession). 90% of all accidents with air guns are due to careless handling, the perception that a gun is not loaded when it actually is and aiming it at an inappropriate target. All these cases can be avoided if a shooter handles a weapon responsibly and correctly.

General Precautions

1. Handle the gun as if it is loaded, just like you would handle a firearm .

2. Always aim in and keep the barrel pointing in a safe direction. Choose only a target that cannot be shot through and make sure that pellets will not bounce off it because of its hard surface. Never shoot into water even if you are in your own backyard.. Never point your gun at people or animals, or anything else that you are not going to shoot.

3. Keep your grip safety activated until you are ready to shoot. Do not pull the trigger when the grip safety activated (a pellet can get stuck in the barrel). As in any mechanical devices, the grip may fail. Even when the grip safety is activated, handle it with caution. Never point the gun at anyone or at anything you do not want to shoot.

4. When you take the gun from someone or from a safe, check if it’s discharged and the grip safety is activated.

5. Do not touch the trigger until you are ready to shoot.

6. Use special goggles while shooting.

7. If you wear eyeglasses, put the goggles on top of those.

8. Always use .177 (4.5) caliber pellets.

9. Never reuse pellets.

10. Keep the trigger, if any, locked when storing.

11. Keep your gun in a safe place at your house without pellets and CO2 cylinders.

12. Before storing the gun, make sure it is discharged and secured.

13. Do not forget that any repair of the gun is carried out only in special workshops.

14. Never let a loaded gun out of your hand.

15. An air gun, together with its instructions, may only be handed over to persons over 18 y/o and familiar with the principles of handling weapons.

16. Do not modify your gun. Changes may not be compatible with the design of the gun and will be contrary to these instructions. The use of such weapons can cause serious injury or death. It will also void the warranty on the gun.

17. If you have dropped your gun, inspect and check it carefully before using it again. If something changes, like the stroke of the trigger, it could mean damage to or destruction of parts of the gun. If this happens, contact a service department.

CO2 Cylinder Installation and Removal

Keep your hands and face out away from vaporizing CO2 gas. If the gas gets into contact with the skin, it can cause rapid cooling and frostbite. Before removing the cylinder from the air gun, make sure that the CO2 cylinder is empty. Slowly turn the cap counterclockwise until the noise of the vaporizing CO2 gas stops.

When installing and removing the CO2 cylinder:

• Make sure that the air gun is not loaded and its grip safety is activated.
• Slowly turn the cap counterclockwise until the noise of vaporizing CO2 gas stops. Make sure it’s all out.
• Open the tube lid and remove the empty CO2 cylinder with the air gun barrel pointing down.
• Insert a new cylinder/cartridge into the air gun mag with the neck facing forward.
• Screw in the gas cylinder cap.
• Point the air gun in a safe direction, remove the safety catch and pull the trigger.
• If the air gun does not pop after pulling the trigger, the cylinder has not been pierced. Slightly screw the cap, slingshot the slide, and fire again until the pops are heard, it means that gas is released each time the trigger is pulled.
• Check the grip safety.

Do not store your air gun with the cylinder inside.

Important: The CO2 cylinder may explode at temperatures above 50°C.  Do not deform or burn cylinders. Do not heat or store them at temperatures above 50C°.

Pellets Loading and Removal

Always use .177 (4.5) caliber diabolo pellets with a maximum length of 6.5 mm when firing air guns. Do not use BB (metal balls), darts, or other unsuitable projectiles for rifled barrels. The use of non-standard bullets may cause damage to you or your gun. Never reuse bullets.

Loading the pellets:

• Check the grip safety.
• Point the gun in a safe direction.
• Follow the instructions of your air gun to load the pellets.
• Before shooting, make sure that the slide is pushed forward and locked.

Discharge by shooting is the easiest way to remove a pellet. Shoot in a safe direction.

Discharge without shooting:

• Activate grip safety.
• Remove the CO2 cylinder.
• Pull the slide back and open the barrel.
• Insert a suitable size brush into the barrel. The barrel may be damaged if you use an incorrectly sized brush.
• Push the pellet into the pellet ejection port direction.

If a pellet does not come out of the gun, it does not mean that there are no more of them in the mag. Shooting with insufficient CO2 pressure may cause a pellet to stuck in the barrel. If it is not possible to make a shot, it could be due to a dud caused by a pellet.

Handling

Before cleaning your air gun (grip safety) make sure there is no pellet in the barrel and remove the CO2 cylinder. The external metal parts of the gun should be cleaned from time to time. Use a soft cloth and gun oil for this purpose. The gun must be lubricated regularly after every 250 shots in order to function properly and avoid corrosion. Apply 2 to 3 drops of gun oil on external parts and inside the compression chamber. Use only airgun-rated oils. With proper care and proper handling, your gun will bring you pleasure for many years.

Author bio: Roy Emerson is a technology enthusiast, a loving father of twins, a programmer in a custom software company. Editor in chief of TheHomeDweller blog, greedy reader, and gardener.

If you enjoy watching wildlife, a homemade deer feeder will bring the wildlife closer to you to observe it with best practices. Fill the feeder with treats and you will be able to watch deer, turkey, and other animals feed and interact with one another.

A homemade deer feeder like one of our 21 listed below will attract a lot of attention and get many visitors. Deer are creatures of habit and will return over and over again to a food source.

These homemade deer feeder ideas that we have gathered for you will show you how to build a feeder on a small budget. You will be enabling the deer to eat healthier diets so they can reproduce and you will get the enjoyment of watching these majestic creatures.

1- PVC Homemade Deer Feeder

One 10-feet piece of PVC pipe can make two homemade deer feeders such as this one by Hub Pages. Use the PVC pipe that is 6-inches in diameter and you will create a large sized deer feeder that holds lots of corn. You won’t have to refill it often and the deer won’t get spooked by your presence or human scent.

What I like about this feeder, it is a budget friendly building project and these free plan will show you how to build this PVC feeder step by step. A pictorial guide and written instructions are included in this building manual that is in PDF format.

If you have PVC pipe leftover from another project the cost of this DIY project will be very good for a small budget.

2- Covered Deer Feeder

This covered deer feeder is easy to build and it will keep the feed dry until all of it has been eaten.

This is one of the best Deer feeder plans that we just love. The larger size and stand alone design makes this wild game feeder ideal for attracting various forms of wildlife. The wide bottom tray allows you to put corn, grain, salt lick, and hay in it at the same time. The more variety of food that is offered, the more variety of wildlife will show up to eat.

A covered homemade deer feeder by My Outdoor Plans like this one will keep the wildlife food protected from the weather so nothing will be wasted. You can fill the feeder with lots of treats and not have to worry about re-stocking it for several days. The deer and other wildlife will appreciate the covering that keeps their head dry while they eat.

These free plans provide step by step instructions so you can easily build one of these DIY deer feeders.

3- PVC Deer Feeder

Here is a budget friendly deer feeder that requires no carpentry skills to build. This homemade deer feeder is made from PVC pipe and attached to a tree with wire. It’s simple design, cheap to make, and deer will love it.

Make this homemade deer feeder using 2 inch diameter pvc pipe, hacksaw or PVC cutter, metal wire, rope, or string, two 2 inch pvc pipe caps, and pvc glue. This is a very simple DIY project that will only take a few minutes to build and cost less than $10. These free plans will show you how to make a cheap homemade deer feeder by Instructables so you can enjoy watching deer in their natural habitat.

You can create several of these if you have a large piece of property so you can get a good view of deer from different locations. These DIY deer feeders would also make a good gift for family and friends that live in a wooded area.

4- Homemade Wooden Box Deer Feeder

This deer feeder plan, unlike previous ones we have discussed, will show you how to build a basic wooden box structure that has a storage bin on top. The storage bin is filled with food and as the deer eat from the bottom, fresh food drops down from the top. The removable lid on top makes filling the bin easy.

A salt lick or mineral block can be placed in the deer feeder such as this one by feltmagnet instead of corn or grain. All types of wildlife will be attracted to this wooden feeder box and for birds you may need a diy bird feeder. If you have some scrap lumber on hand the cost to build this will be almost nothing.

You can make this homemade deer feeder using the following parts cutting list Part A (sides): 18″ long by 8½” wide (quantity of two needed), Part B (back): 18″ long by 7½” wide, Part C (slanted front): 17″ long by 7½” wide,Part D (bottom): 7¾ long by 7½” wide,Part E (lid): 10″ long by 10½ ” wide,Part F (tray front): 9″ long by 2½ ” wide.

5- Barrel Deer Feeder

This barrel deer feeder is so easy and inexpensive to build and will attract a lot of attention from wildlife.

A plastic 55-gallon barrel and a few pieces of lumber can be used to create a long-lasting DIY deer feeder such as this one on YouTube. This video will take you through the building process so you can make one for your landscape.

The roof will keep most of the rain water out of the feeding trough, but drill a few holes in the bottom so rain water can drain through and not cause the grain to ruin. You can also place a trail camera on the side so you can capture up-close videos or pictures of the deer as they eat.

6- Five Gallon Bucker Feeder

A five gallon bucket can easily be transformed into a hanging deer feeder with this unique idea.

These plastic buckets are cheap and can be bought at any building supply center. A wooden dowel, piece of rope, and screw are the other component needed for this DIY project.

This homemade deer feeder by fivegallonideas can be made in 15-minutes. Fill it with corn or other grain, hang it up from a sturdy tree limb and the deer will arrive shortly afterward to feed. You don’t have to have carpentry skills or a big budget, just a bucket and a rope.

There are a few other designs that can be used to create a feeder with a five gallon bucket, but this is the simplest and cheapest. You may also like to make a DIY squirrel feeder to enjoy watching the habits of squirrels when you are close to them.

7- Down Spout Deer Feeder And Food Recipe

An inexpensive down spout used for a home guttering system makes an ideal and cheap deer feeder by wikihow.

Place the large end of the spout at the top and add gutter connections to the bottom to create a narrow end so the grain won’t pour out. Attach the down spout to a tree with wire or screws and fill it with one of the recipes included with these free plans.

Corn, oats, and molasses make a tasty and wholesome treat for deer. Stale bread, honey, and molasses will also make an irresistible treat for deer. Making this feeder is cheap and the homemade recipes for deer food make keeping the feeder full inexpensive and easy too.

8- PVC Pipe Feeder

Simple and affordable to make, this DIY deer feeder by realtree is made from PVC pipe and will last for years.

These free plans include a video and written instructions so the build will go smoothly even if you have never built anything before. No cutting is required but you might need to use a drill.

Spray paint the finished deer feeder with camo paint and it will blend in with the surrounding landscape. The large PVC pipe won’t need to be re-filled daily so you can rest and enjoy watching the deer eat with minimal work or expense.

9- Hanging Deer Feeder

These free plans will show you how to recycle a five gallon bucket and a tin can into a new hanging deer feeder By diyjoy

The five gallon bucket holds the corn or grain and the tin can hangs from the bottom to catch the attention of the passing deer. When the deer come by to investigate and nudge the tin can, some of the feed inside the bucket will drop out.

When the deer discover they get free food each time they nudge the tin can they will come around often and stay a long time.

10- Covered Deer Trough

It gets tough for deer and other wildlife to find enough food to survive during the winter and a deer feeder like this will help keep them well fed.

These free detailed plans will show you how to build a covered deer trough by myoutdoorplans that will help nourish the deer during the cold winter months. The large trough holds plenty of food so it will only need refilling every 5-6 days.

If you have basic carpentry skills and a small budget, download this PDF file that contains all the building plans. You can build this covered trough in one weekend and it will last for years.

11- Gravity Feeder

Learn how to build a homemade deer feeder on youtube that uses gravity to keep the corn flowing downward.

A 55 gallon barrel, either plastic or metal, is used for this DIY project. The barrel is placed up on metal legs so the deer can go under the barrel feeder to get to the corn. A salt lick can be placed under it to provide an extra treat for the deer and other wildlife. A mineral block will also help keep the deer healthy.

12- Homemade Barrel Feeder

Here’s another idea for creating a DIY deer feeder on youtube with a 55-gallon barrel. This detailed YouTube video will show you how to recycle a metal 55-gallon barrel into a functional deer feeder. This is a great idea for a small budget project and it will provide plenty of corn for the deer.

The digital feeder kit that is attached to the bottom is affordable and available at hunting supply centers. It will release the corn as needed so it won’t be wasted when wildlife is not near the feeder.

If you have a metal barrel and some metal poles, the cost for building this barrel feeder will be very low. Plus you’ll be doing a good deed by recycling metal and feeding the wildlife.

13- Plastic Barrel Feeder

Learn how to build a gravity deer feeder in this YouTube video using a plastic barrel. The barrel feeder costs less than $20 to build and is great for a small budget.

The barrel feeder has a PVC pipe feeder on the bottom so the deer can easily access the corn or grain inside that is inside the barrel. The barrel can be suspended from a tree or it can be placed on wooden legs to get it off the ground.

The 55 gallon plastic barrel holds plenty of corn or grain to keep the deer well fed for several days. The cheap building costs leaves more money for you to spend on corn to put into the feeder.

Remember to put a few drainage holes in the bottom of the plastic barrel feeder to allow rain water to escape. Paint the plastic barrel camo so it will blend in with the surrounding landscape.

Gravity Feeder

Building a gravity feeder has never been easier! Get all the free instructions you will need for building a DIY deer feeder for your hunting land.

A PVC deer feeder in this YouTube video that works with gravity to keep the feed flowing will attract the deer and keep them coming back for more food. Build this gravity deer feeder on a small budget since the components are very inexpensive. A length of PVC pipe, a cap for the top, and an elbow joint are basically all that you will need to build this DIY deer feeder.

Many DIY enthusiasts will have these PVC pipe components on hand so building this efficient homemade deer feeder will be almost free.

This deer feeder is ideal for hunters who want to keep the deer in the area well fed without spending a lot of money on batteries. Even if you are not a deer hunter but just enjoy feeding and watching wildlife, this gravity feeder will be ideal.

Barrel Corn Feeder

Use a 55 gallon plastic barrel to create a corn feeder for deer. This homemade deer feeder on youtube will hold plenty of corn so you won’t have to return often to refill it.

If humans are in the area too often it will spook the deer and they will find another feeding location. Building a large barrel corn feeder like the one shown in this YouTube video will allow you to stay away from the feeding area so the deer won’t be spooked by the human scent.

This YouTube video will show you how to build a deer feeder using a plastic barrel and PVC pipe.

Automatic Deer Feeder

Making an automatic deer feeder like this one on youtube video will enable you to keep food in the selected area at all times. The deer will return again and again to feed because they know food will always be there for them.

This is ideal for hunters and wild life watchers. You can count on deer being in the area because they can count on food being there. Build it and fill it with corn and the deer will come.

This instructional YouTube video will provide the automatic deer feeder plans so you can get started building one this weekend. It is a budget friendly DIY project that won’t cost much to build. A 55 gallon plastic barrel and some left over lumber are the main components of this building project.

Covered Deer Feeder

Building this homemade deer feeder for your landscape will give you an incredible view of wild life from your back porch. Make this covered trough feeder to be the focal point of your backyard. It’s easy to build with lumber, plywood, and shingles.

This DIY deer feeder by howtospecialist is a covered trough that will attract deer and keep the food dry during rain or snow. The way the feeding trough is designed will give you a great view of the deer as they feed.

These detailed instructions will show you how to make a deer feeder that attracts deer, look good in your yard, be easy to fill and refill with corn, and keep the corn dry. This feeder is made from wood so you can paint it to match your house or paint it in camouflage colors to blend in with the surrounding landscape.

Wooden Deer Trough

Watch how to build a wooden deer trough on this YouTube video. Use leftover wood and build it to fit perfectly on your hunting land or to use it to make a deer blind. The covered trough is made from wood and will protect the food inside the trough while attracting the deer to come and eat.

This homemade deer feeder can be built on a small budget, especially if you have some leftover wood on hand from previous DIY projects. This covered feeder is sturdy and built to last for years. Coat the wood with a clear coat of water seal and that will help the wooden deer feeder last even longer.

More Deer

Bring more deer on your hunting land fast with this cheap and easy to build deer feeder.

Transform an ordinary 55 gallon plastic barrel into an efficient homemade deer feeder in just a few minutes in this youtube video. You may want to make several of these for your hunting land.

A 55 gallon barrel with a lid makes an ideal storage unit for deer corn. When you cut a few holes near the bottom to allow the corn to come out as needed the barrel becomes a cheap deer feeder.

This YouTube video will also show you how to paint the barrel in camouflage colors so it will bend in with the landscape.

Automatic Bucket Deer Feeder

If a 55 gallon barrel feeder is too big for your hunting land, how about a 5 gallon bucket deer feeder? Learn how to build a deer feeder in this YouTube video with a 5 gallon bucket and make it automatic.

This feeder is cheap and easy to build and will keep the deer coming back daily for more food. Ideal for a back yard view point or for placing in several prime locations around hunting land. The budget friendly cost and easy build will enable you to build many of these automatic bucket feeders. Suspending the deer feeder from a tree branch will also keep the raccoons and possums out of the corn.

PVC Pipe Deer Feeder

This is cheap, easy, and fast to build! PVC pipe makes a long lasting deer feeder that can hold a lot of corn and stand up to the weather conditions.

Take a length of 6 inch PVC pipe and easily transform it into a gravity diy deer feeder such as in this youtube video. The cheap cost will enable you to build several of these homemade deer feeders and place them around your hunting land. Leave the PVC pipe white or paint camo or green to blend in with the landscape.

Watch this detailed YouTube video to learn how to build a deer feeder using PVC pipe. One like this can be built in minutes and enjoyed for years.

Conlusion

So these are the ideas we have gathered around the internet to make it convenient for you to make your own custom design deer feeder. Now you have a lot of options to try starting from pvc pipe, bucket, hanging feeder and a 55 gallon drum. These feeders are made using one thing sure that is less wastage of feed and easy to refill. Hope you like the article!

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By reader request, we’re putting two short-action gems up against one another, with a time-proven veteran with 70-plus years of hunting, military and target experience, and a relative newcomer that is quickly gaining favor in the hunting fields and target range. And despite the differences in bore diameter, many hunters are flocking to the smaller bullet diameter; the question is whether or not that change is warranted. Let’s compare the differences between Hornady’s 6.5 PRC and the classic .308 Winchester.

As the younger of the pair—having been released at the 2018 SHOT Show—the 6.5 PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge) is often referred to as the big brother of the 6.5 Creedmoor. Based on the .375 Ruger, shortened to fit in a short-action magazine, the 6.5 PRC is a rimless cartridge, using its 30-degree shoulder for excellent headspacing and chamber concentricity. The case features the .532-inch-diameter case head common to the Holland & Holland family of cartridges, and measures 2.030 inches in length, with a cartridge maximum length of 2.955 inches. This leaves ample room outside the case mouth for those bullets which possess the high Ballistic Coefficient values, and make the best choices for shooting in high winds or at long distances. Like the Creedmoor, the vast majority of projectiles will top out at somewhere between 140 and 147 grains, with few exceptions.

The 6.5 PRC does offer a respectable velocity advantage over the Creedmoor—about 250-260 fps, putting it on par with the 6.5 Weatherby RPM, and ahead of factory ammo for the 6.5-284 Norma. Though it is short and squat—and visually reminiscent of the Winchester Short Magnum cartridges—I’ve found the 6.5 PRC feeds very well in any rifle with a decently designed feed ramp. At 2960 fps with a 143-grain Hornady ELD-X, the 6.5 PRC will throw those bullets in a very similar manner to the .300 Winchester Magnum with a good 180-grain bullet; when zeroed at 200 yards, it’ll print 6.4 inches low at 300 yards, 18.2 inches low at 400 yards, and 36.2 inches low at 500 yards (where it still retains over 1,600 ft.-lbs. of energy). In the recoil department, the 6.5 PRC does have a higher recoil level than does the 6.5 Creedmoor, but I’ve found it to be completely manageable.

The .308 Winchester came to light in the sporting world before it got its marching orders in the U.S. Army, being released in 1952. It is the result of the 1940s effort to reduce the size and weight of the cartridge, in order to maximize the soldier’s potential. Starting with the .300 Savage cartridge, the end result was what the military designated the T-65. Sharing the same case head dimension as the .30-06 Springfield (derived from the Mauser cartridges), the .308 Winchester effectively reproduced the Springfield’s performance – at least from a military perspective. The sporting world would cock an eyebrow, however, and that debate between the .308 and .30-06 rages on 70 years later. Like its forefathers, the 308 Winchester is rimless, with a .473”-diameter case head, and a 20-degree shoulder for headspacing. The case length is 2.015 inches, with a cartridge overall length of 2.810 inches; the resultant cartridge is one of the first to earn the moniker of “inherently accurate.”

With the 1:12-inch twist rate of the early sporting rifles, the .308 Winchester was limited to 200-grain bullets, though many were eventually offered with the faster 1:10-inch twist. As bullet technology improved, the need for 220-grain round nose definitely faded, but the argument is still raised that the Springfield handles heavy bullets better than does the .308 Winchester. I personally feel that bullets weighing between 150 and 180 grains make the best choice for big-game hunting, as with modern designs they are rugged enough to reach the vitals on game as large as moose and elk, yet don’t take up that precious real estate in the case. Many hunters feel the 165-grain bullets are the optimum balance of bullet weight and velocity in the .308 Winchester, and there is merit to that theory. Traveling at 2700 fps, the trajectory of the .308 Winchester isn’t as flat as the .300 Magnums, nor even the 6.5 PRC, but still makes a good choice for an all-around hunting rifle. With a common softpoint bullet, and a 200-yard zero, the 308 will print 8½ inches low at 300 yards, 25 inches low at 400 yards and 50 inches low at 500 yards, retaining over 1,100 ft.-lbs. of energy at the latter distance. And while these numbers may seem anemic when compared to some of the modern cartridge designs, remember that the .308 Winchester was once the undisputed darling of the long-range target crowd.

Grab a box of premium 180-grain ammunition for the .308 Winchester and you’ve got moose and elk medicine, as well as making a great choice for black bear anywhere. If you like to use your big-game rifle for the occasional coyote, the 125-grain bullets can be very effective, if a bit rough on the pelts.

With all this is mind, which makes the better choice for the hunter? A couple of factors should help dictate your choice of purchase: first, the choice of species to be pursued, and second, the ranges at which you hunt and your style of hunting. With the flexibility of bullet weight that .30-caliber has to offer, the .308 Winchester is, was, and always shall be a very versatile cartridge. At the most common hunting ranges, its trajectory and energy levels don’t pose an issue, and I feel that for the larger species the .308 Winchester offers an obvious advantage over and of the 6.5mms. Should you want your hunting cartridge to pull double duty as a competition target cartridge, especially at long ranges, the 6.5 PRC is a fine choice. Many feel that the 140- to 147-grain bullets are plenty of bullet weight for bears, elk and moose, though the author feels that a larger bore diameter and additional bullet weight will be greatly appreciated for those species. As a deer/sheep/antelope cartridge, the 6.5 PRC is a wonderful choice, and it is in that species range where I feel the cartridge absolutely shines.

Factory ammunition for the .308 Winchester is wonderfully plentiful, with all major manufacturers offering good choices. The 6.5 PRC has assuredly caught on, with at least one load offered by Winchester, Browning, Federal, Nosler, Norma and Barnes, as well as the Hornady offerings. To pick one over the other, I’m going to fall back on my inherent desire for flexibility, and that means I’ll have to choose the .308 Winchester for the wider variety of bullet weight, even if I’m giving up the hunting performance outside of 500 yards. There is a reason that the .30-caliber cartridges remain such popular choices in the hunting arena, and while the 6.5mms are certainly impressive far downrange, the majority of hunting certainly occurs inside of 400 yards.

Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.

Today I’m going to show you the best scope rings.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over 15 scope rings alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scope rings by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best AR scope mounts, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

Different Types of Scope Mounts

Looking for a scope mount but not sure what kind to get or how to install it?

I’ll help you decide, and give you the instruction necessary to mount your scope.

Weaver vs Picatinny vs Dovetail Mounts

We see these names all the time in the gun world, but what the heck do they mean?

Being a shooting enthusiast for years, I never gave much thought to the matter. I could install most of my rings on any of them interchangeably, and didn’t worry much about it, until I tried to install a spec Picatinny mount on a Weaver rail.

Here’s a basic breakdown without getting too complicated.

Dovetail Mounts

First, the dovetail mount.

This is by far the simplest type of mount, and you may come across it with rimfires more than other weapons.

In short:

Two grooves are milled into the frame or receiver of the weapon, and your scope mounts attach directly to this.

There are no grooves or indents to allow space for the tightening bolt to fit over. Luckily, most of the time the dovetails are cut in such a way that they shouldn’t really interfere, but this is also where they slip up, literally.

Heavy recoil can cause your rings to slide a bit forward along the dovetail, inching their way toward the end of it.

The little grooves cut into modern rails are there to prevent this.

Weaver and Picatinny Mounts

Weaver mounts and Picatinny rails look very similar.

They both have a flat top with slots cut across it and the edges are wider than the top and bottom, giving your mount something to bite into.

The biggest difference here is tolerance.

Weaver bases don’t follow a standardized format, and there are generally fewer slots cut into a rail of the same length. The slots also tend to be narrower than Picatinny slots.

What this means is that the bolt from a Picatinny base may not always fit into a Weaver style base, and Weaver rings won’t fill the slot on a Picatinny rail. You also have less choice in where to mount your optics due to less slots available.

In short, get Picatinny rails. But sometimes you can get away with using them interchangeably.

If you do put Weaver style mounts on a Picatinny rail, make sure they are as far forward in the slot as they will go when you tighten them down, so they don’t creep forward as we discussed with the dovetail mounts.

Specialty Mounts

Some mounts are just odd.

There are a few manufacturers out there who have created their own mounting systems that match special attachments for scopes. While the rings themselves are usually a standard size, the mounting system is anything but.

A classic example is the Leupold Dovetail mount.

These attachments are not based on any kind of rail system, but a fixed pivot that cannot ever slide. If you don’t intend to use any kind of quick release mount, these can be a great touch, and they are usually machined to fit certain rifles.

The downside is that they might not fit all scopes, and you may have to buy rings with a built-in offset, known as cantilever rings. You’ll also want a special wrench to mount these rings.

Speaking of mounting, if you want to remove your AR-15 front sight, read my guide on that.

Other base designs abound, but none are more popular than the almost universal Picatinny rail system. Some guns require a specialty mounting platform because the rifle doesn’t conform to a shape that easily accepts a scope rail, like SKS mounting systems.

Different Types of Attachments

Rings are what typically connects the scope to the mounting base, and there are many ways to do this.

Since nearly every gun has a different mounting setup, and every scope has its own dimensions, there are several varieties that solve different problems that might come up when trying to mount a scope to a rifle.

Dovetail Rings

If your weapon already has integral slots cut in it, then you can sometimes get away without installing a mounting base at all, and just buy rings that fit your dovetail grooves.

Generally, the grooves will be spaced either 9mm or 11mm apart, and it’s important to get the right rings, or a more flexible ring mount that fits both.

While you’ll save some money on rings and the lack of a new mounting base, this is not always the best option. On high power rifles the rings can move under recoil, and that’s a never a good thing. Even if there are locking tabs, these can break under even the modest kick of a .308.

On the other hand, if you are scoping a rimfire or a pellet gun, sometimes a set of dovetail rings is the perfect option. Easy, cheap, and effective.

Picatinny and Weaver Rings

Mostly, these are interchangeable, but there are always exceptions.

One absolute rule on this is not to try and mount Picatinny rings or other attachments onto a Weaver style rail if there are multiple screws in the same plate. The grooves in Picatinny rails are standardized, not so with Weaver bases.

Other than that, you can try, but in this case it’s best to get Weaver rings as they will always fit Picatinny rails.

Picatinny is the new gold standard when it comes to rings, so if you are installing a rail for the first time, go with what everyone is using, and you won’t be disappointed. After the military adopted this style for their M4 rifle rings, the rest of the world soon started using them.

Red Dot Attachments

One thing I love about red dots is that they come with their own mounting system, so you don’t generally need to go shopping for a mounting plate.

However, if you are putting a red dot on a pistol, there may be some other work involved.

Mounting plates can be installed on rails, in the dovetail that holds the rear sight on the pistol, or mated to a custom mount machined directly into the slide.

On a rifle, the standard again is that they attach to picatinny rails, though they do exist for other mounting styles. You can get air-rifle and rimfire red dots that will mount to your rifle’s dovetail.

Ring Height

Attachments give a lot of things to consider. There are different styles, but one of the most important considerations is the height.

The height is measured from the top of the scope base to the center of the ring. One reason this is so important is because scopes typically have a very large objective lens on the front, and you want rings that are tall enough to accommodate it.

The last thing you want is to finish installing the mount and rings, and then not be able to get the scope in because it’s touching the barrel.

As a general rule of thumb, the rings should be at least half as tall as your scope’s objective diameter. This is the last number on the scope description.

For instance a 1-3×40 would have a 40mm and require at a minimum 20mm tall rings. Much of this depends also on the rifle design and the thickness of the scope body.

There is an advantage, of course, to keeping your scope as low to the bore as possible. When you zero the rifle, the drop calculations will be affected with different scope heights. Close to the bore means that there will be less elevation change in the bullet at shorter ranges, or flatter shooting.

Ring Size

Another important consideration is the size of the scope rings.

Generally speaking, there are two that most scope bodies use:

One inch, and 30mm.

Many brands make both, so until you know what the scope tube size is, it’s best to hold off on buying rings.

While the solution is simple, I mention this here because too often it happens that shooters will buy expensive rings, only to find out that they aren’t the right size for the scope they want.

Murphy’s Law in full effect.

Specialty Rings

If you are going to be using a special mounting base, then you need to get rings that match it.

Leupold Dovetails are the most common outlier, but be sure that you are getting rings specifically made for any non-rail systems.

There are also a number of standard style rings that have different mounting designs.

Cantilevered rings are the most common. These include one ring and generally attach to the base with one bolt (sometimes two), but they are offset from their mount point.

If you have a short rail or limited mounting points, cantilevering can give you more options for scope fit and placement, by changing the distance between your rings or shifting the scope position forward or back.

There are also dual-ring attachments that contain two rings on the same base mount. One attachment, and you have everything you need to attach your scope.

The options go on and on, including integrated bubble levels, or even extra bits of rail mounted to the sides or tops of the rings themselves so that you can add other devices to the same mount point right beside your scope. One use of this might be a night vision scope with a separate IR source mounted to the side.

Quick Detach Attachments

And how could I talk about attachments without mentioning quick disconnects. These attachments have a lever at the bottom instead of a screw or bolt to lock them to the rail.

If you want to remove the scope after installing it on a Picatinny rail, you simply flick the levers and pull it off. How cool is that?

This option is so popular that it is quickly becoming a standard all its own.

The 8 Best Scope Rings

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best scope rings:

1. Aero Precision: Best Scope Mount for AR-15
2. Vortex Optics Pro Series Riflescope Rings: Best 30mm Scope Rings
3. Leupold Rifleman: Best for the Money
4. Talley Lightweight: Best 1 Inch
5. Warne 1” Matte PA Rings: Best Rings For Heavy Recoil
6. Warne Quick Detach: Best Quick Release Mount
7. Burris XTR Rings: Best for Picatinny Rail
8. Seekins Precision: Best Scope Rings for Long Range Shooting

1. Aero Precision: Best Scope Mount for AR-15

The Aero Precision is the best scope mount you can get for the AR-15.

It’s not only great for high-end optics, but it’s also the lightest mount on the market.

But that’s not all. Here’s why I have the Aero Precision mounted on my AR-15 to this day…

Durability

The Aero Precision mount’s lean design does not define its strength.

In fact, a bulky mount doesn’t always mean a sturdy build.

It’s constructed of extruded aluminum with a hard-coat, black matte finish.

Plus, the edges are rounded and smoothed that compliments its design.

Which makes it a lean, mean mounting machine.

Eye Relief

The eye relief will mostly depend on your specifications when mounting it to your AR-15 scope.

But this mount also works for a variety of different heights and length for your eyes.

In fact, the only issue with the eye relief was with the installation of the mount itself.

When trying to adjust for eye relief, the included mount rings were not securely holding my scope in place.

Which means you should probably switch the rings out for something more reliable.

I highly recommend these 30mm LaRue rings to hold your scope in place while adjusting it for eye relief on this mount.

Installation

Now here’s the tricky part.

When it came to installing the scope mount, there were some issues.

Due to the integral ring’s pinch bolt style, this can cause the scope to rotate as you use a Torx tool to screw it on.

Which means the reticle can become unleveled. So torquing the mount became trial and error.

But one solution is to use a stack of gauge blocks to get a snug grip between the bottom of the scope and the mount.

And then torque the rings to keep the mount in place for a level scope.

If one thing could be improved on this mount, it would definitely be the installation.

But it’s up to everyone’s individual specifications to decide how tricky it is to properly install this mount.

So keep it in mind, but the other great qualities of this mount remain unmatched.

Who’s the Aero Precision for?

The Aero Precision scope mount is a great option if you’re looking for a lightweight and sturdy mount for your scope.

Plus, it’s a high-quality mount that’s also affordable for most budgets.

So whether you’re into hunting or target shooting at the range, the Aero Precision is a versatile mount any AR-15 scope.

2. Vortex Optics Pro Series Riflescope Rings: Best 30mm Scope Rings

I’m a big fan of using rings to mount my scopes, especially on tactical rifles.

They’re time-tested, rugged, and ultra-reliable.

When you first start using them, they take some getting used to.

If you can put your first pair of rings onto your rifle the first time perfectly, I applaud you.

After you get the hang of it though, you’ll never go back to one piece mounts again.

Vortex is one of the best gun accessory makers in the business.

They offer incredible quality, precision, and durability for a comparatively low price.

Plus their warranty is unbeatable.

So when they came out with their Pro Series Rings, I had to give them a shot.

Their extra high 30mm rifle rings are now my hands down favorite type of mount.

In my opinion, they’re basically one of the best AR scope mounts you’ll find.

Keep reading and I’ll tell you why you need to give the Vortex Optics Pro 30mm Rings a shot.

Durability

Vortex is a company known for putting out high quality and insanely durable products.

Their Pro Series rings are no exception to that claim.

Made from T6 aluminum, these things are solid.

They’re thick and attach securely to your rail or rifle with 4 T-25 Torx screws per ring.

Once these rings are on, they stay on.

They’re not going to get bent, or twisted, or knocked out of place no matter what you do to them.

It’s their job to stay put and keep your zero and that is exactly what they do.

In addition, they’re coated with an anodized finish that offers a ton of weather protection.

The best part is that even though each ring is made of a solid chunk of nearly indestructible metal, they’re still super lightweight.

That means you won’t have to worry about compensating for the weight of them like I’ve had to with some one-piece mounts.

I put these on my scout rifle and after over 500 rounds, my zero is still in place.

I’ve marched this setup through the brush, up and down hills, across streams, and climbed trees with it.

They’ve been banged against rocks, scraped through weeds and bushes, and submerged in water.

The rings have never budged so much as a centimeter.

I’m by no means gentle on my equipment and I couldn’t put a dent in them.

To me, that speaks for itself.

Eye Relief

Vortex offers low, medium, high, and extra-high rings to fit any standard 30mm scope.

That means depending on your scope and rifle, you can customize your eye relief for the perfect fit.

My advice is to generally get a bit higher than you think you’re going to need.

It’s a lot easier to lift your eye up a bit than it is to mash your cheek onto your rifle to see through your optic.

Plus, if you pick rings that are too short for your scope, you might have to mount them farther back, compromising your eye relief.

If you haven’t picked out a scope for your scout rifle yet, check out these muzzleloader scopes.

Installation

If you’ve never mounted a scope before, check out this page for mounting basics.

Although rings require a little more precision to mount than one-piece mounts do, they’re still fairly easy.

This is a great video from Vortex Optics showing you how to tighten their rings.

One of the best things about these rings is that they have the torque specifications engraved directly onto the rings.

So even if you take them off and switch them to another rifle, you’ll always know exactly how tight to tighten them.

They’ll easily attach to any Picatinny rail or Weaver mount you have as well.

Thanks to the torque specifications and everything that you need to mount the rings included, it took me less than 20 minutes to get them on and tightened.

They’re extremely user-friendly, and you shouldn’t be intimidated.

If you have any issues make sure to take advantage of Vortex’s great customer service.

Who’s the Vortex Optics Pro Series Riflescope Rings For?

If you’re looking for unbeatable quality and durability, then these are the ring mounts for you.

They’re perfect for long-range rifles, scout rifles, and thanks to their incredible durability they even work on air rifles.

If you’re in the market for a new air rifle scope, check out these scopes.

Plus, because they come in so many different heights, they’re perfect for larger scopes.

These rings are also an excellent choice for rifles with high recoil because they just don’t budge.

To review:

• Durable
• Lightweight
• Anodized finish
• Made in the USA
• Made from T6 aluminum
• Torque setting engraved on rings
• Comes in a variety of models to fit your needs

Plus they’re covered by Vortex’s Lifetime VIP warranty.

No matter what happens to your rings, who you give them to, or when it happens, Vortex has you covered.

They’ll replace or repair them free of charge.

It doesn’t matter if it’s been a week or eighty years, when they say lifetime, they mean it.

If you haven’t made the switch to ring mounts for your rifles yet, I urge you to take a look at the Vortex Optics Pro Series yourself.

Trust me, you’ll thank me later.

3. Leupold Rifleman: Best for the Money

Every shooter knows that Leupold is a reputable brand that manufactures products with excellent workmanship.

This household name is well known to design high-quality yet affordable scopes, including a line of mounts called “rifleman rings.” For less than $25, the scope rings have more than 3,000 reviews all over the internet.

The good news: You don’t need to read through thousands, just this one.

Interested? Let’s dive in…

Durability

The Leupold Rifleman rings are sturdy and reliable.

The workmanship is excellent, the fit clean, the pieces arrived without marks or scratches.

Take note:

The rings are not made of steel.

Although they’re precision-machined from aircraft-grade aluminum for strength and lighter weight, it can still create challenges.

Read the directions before mounting. Do not overtighten the scope rings on the optic. If they loosen up, use a thread-locker to prevent the scope from moving when in use.

Design and Fit

The Leupold Rifleman rings are designed for a 1-inch tube scope, and the base will fit any Weaver/Picatinny rail.

Don’t forget:

Proper ring height is needed for clearance of the scope objective from the barrel.

The Rifleman rings come in different heights. I recommend high rings for 50mm objective lenses, medium rings for 40mm, and low rings for 32mm or less.

Once fitted into my AR-15 rifle’s grooves, the mounting screws disappeared, providing the maximum unobstructed viewing area beneath the scope.

Speaking of mounting…

Installation and Eye Relief

Proper installation is crucial.

The box comes with a hex key, set screws, and a straightforward guide.

In fact:

I have a Leupold VX-6HD LPVO mounted on my Benelli semi-auto .300 win mag using the Rifleman Rings.

It took me less than 10 minutes to set up.

The Rifleman Rings also allow any optic to be mounted forward far enough for proper eye relief.

The scope held zero after 250 rounds and never budged.

Final Verdict: Who’s the Leupold Rifleman Rings for?

Are they the best in the market? Most likely not.

But do they work? Absolutely!

You can spend $100 on Leupold’s better rings, but for $20, I’d say the Rifleman Rings are pretty decent.

Here’s why…

• Holds zero
• Budget-friendly
• Quick Installation
• Reliable construction

Plus, the rings come with Leupold’s lifetime warranty. You can get them replaced if they arrive at your door with defects.

All in all, Leupold Rifleman Scope Rings are trustworthy and quality scope mounts that won’t disappoint or break your bank.

If you’re on the search for the best AR scope mounts, check out my latest review!

4. Talley Lightweight: Best 1 Inch

Do you hunt dangerous game in unforgiving territory? Do you need a scope mounting system that can take a serious beating and hold zero?

If you want a bombproof mounting system, you should seriously consider the Talley Lightweight mounting system.

Durability

If you’ve been around firearms for a while, you’ll notice that the most tried and true way to mount a scope to a rifle is a two-piece mounting system. A set of rings that wrap around the scope. Then those rings attach to a base that is screwed into the rifle’s receiver.

The base and rings are separate pieces. Sometimes that joint where the base and rings come together can be a weak spot.

The joint can be shaken loose with recoil. Or I can damage that connection when I knock my scope scrambling up a rocky hillside searching for a better shot or cover.

Talley has eliminated that weak spot.

Their rings are machined directly to their base meaning this system screws right into my receiver. There’s no joint between the bottom ring and the attached base because it is all one solid piece of 7000 alloy.

This gives me more rigidity and greater stability than any other mounting system out there. My scope will hold zero only as well as its mountings. If the mountings shake loose with recoil, then I’ll have to resight my rifle.

Not so with a Talley Lightweight.

Because this mounting system is perfectly machined as a single piece, I can beat the ever-living-daylights out of my rifle and scope and those mounts will hold steady.

Even better, the rings are coated with Cerakote and will be resistant to scuffs, scrapes, and rust. This system will not only hold your scope steady-but it will look good doing it.

The Talley Lightweight is easily the best AR scope mounts you can find.

But, if mounting without a rail isn’t your thing, then these other mounting options might be more useful to you.

Eye Relief

While Talley recommends that the rings are best mounted directionally-I found that by turning them around I can better adjust the distance between my eye and my eyepiece to get the best eye relief distance for my optic.

Installation

The Talley Lightweight rings will install a little different than you may be used to. It doesn’t matter if you have a weaver or a picatinny mount on your rifle-you won’t be using it.

If you have a rail you will need to remove it.

These rings mount directly into your receiver. If you don’t have any holes to accept the mounting, you’ll need to have your receiver professionally drilled and tapped.

After I got my gun back from my gunsmith, screwing in the bottom portion of the mounting system-the base, if you will-was simple.

I didn’t want these screws to loosen over time, so I locked them down with Locktite Blue 242. I didn’t need much.

Once I attached the bases, I could set in my scope then the top rings. I used a level set to keep everything lined up

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and a torque wrench to make sure I didn’t over tighten.

Please note that while the alloy that these rings are made from is fantastically sturdy-you will strip the screws if you tighten them as much as you can. Do not over-tighten the screws! You’ll want to torque them between 17in/lbs to 20 in/lbs.

Who’s the Talley Lightweight for?

The Talley Lightweight rifle scope rings are for anyone who wants an extra-durable mounting setup. Don’t let their light 4 oz weight fool you. These rings are built tough and can withstand any abuse you can give them.

To recap Talley Lightweight’s top features:

• Easy to install
• Cerakote finish
• Single piece system
• Weigh in at only 4 oz

If you like these mounts, but still need a scope, check these durable optics out.

5. Warne 1” Matte PA Rings: Best Rings For Heavy Recoil

Warne is a company that I think deserves more attention.

Their products are incredibly durable, strong, and reliable.

They make some of the best permanent riflescope mounts that I’ve ever used.

Plus, their products are made entirely in the USA.

That being said, let me introduce you to the Warne 1” Matte PA rings.

They’re an insanely good value for the price, and you’d be hard-pressed to find scope rings of a higher quality.

Warne rings are rock solid, and once you’ve got them tightened down, they’re not going anywhere.

Neither is your zero.

Keep reading and I’ll tell you all you need to know about the Warne 1” rings.

Durability

It’s not often that I’m able to find a mount or set of rings that can really handle the kick of a heavy recoil rifle.

Standard mounts are fine for those fancy high-tech scopes because you’re usually not using them on anything with a kick.

Put one on a .17HMR and you’re in business.

Put one on a Ruger and there’s a good chance your rings and your scope are dust.

That’s where the Warne 1” rings come in.

These rings are ultra-durable.

They’re made of stainless steel and have been proven to be the strongest rings on the market.

In addition, they’re equipped with a no-slip positive recoil surface.

That means they’re built to withstand even the heaviest recoil.

It works by evenly distributing the force of the recoil across the entire setup.

That way no one part is bearing the brunt of the force, so it’s a lot easier on your equipment.

I’ve used these rings on shotguns, scout scopes, and ARs, and the rings have never budged.

This kind of quality and durability is insane for the low cost.

If you’re looking to go big game hunting, these are the rings you need.

If you just want to make sure nothing budges during your deer hunt, these are the rings you want.

Basically, these are fantastic all-around rings for whatever purpose you need.

Eye Relief

Your eye relief is really going to depend on your scope.

The great thing about using rings rather than one-piece mounts is that you have more control over where you place them.

Since they’re more versatile, you can adjust them for your perfect eye relief.

I’m personally a big fan of long eye relief scopes.

I like the wiggle room they offer and the ability to adjust my eye for the shot.

If that sounds like you, then these rings are perfect.

They work great with these long eye relief scopes.

Installation

I recommend buying the Warne Base to help mount your rings.

It makes it easier to mount than a Weaver or Picatinny rail, and since it’s Warne they were made for each other.

These rings aren’t hard to mount if you follow the included instructions.

Once they’re installed, you can set them and forget them.

Seriously. You’ll never need to adjust these rings ever again.

This is one of the best AR scope mounts you could ask for because of how user friendly it is.

The main difference between these rings and others is that they’re split vertically instead of horizontally.

Once you’ve wrapped your head around that, there’s nothing to the install.

Here’s a youtube video by Warne showing you the install process.

Who’s the Warne 1” Matte PA Rings For?

These rings are perfect for anyone who wants to mount their scope once and never wants to worry about it again.

It’s possible to take it off and move it to another rifle, but you’re better off just buying multiple sets of rings.

If you’re looking for a set of rings that’s gonna hold up to a high recoil rifle and perfectly distribute the weight, then these are for you.

Combined with the Warne base, these are perfect for any type of firearm.

They also work with most scopes, including these 1-8x scopes.

To review:

• Inexpensive
• High quality
• Super durable
• Made in the USA
• Hold perfect zero
• Set it and forget it design
• Stainless steel recoil control
• Perfect for guns with heavy recoil

They’re also covered by Warne’s lifetime warranty, and by lifetime they mean as long as someone has the product.

No matter how it breaks or when Warne will repair or replace it for free.

That’s a company that stands by their product, so you know they’ve gotta be good.

Check out the Warne 1” Matte PA Rings for yourself.

6. Warne Quick Detach: Best Quick Release Mount

If you’re after a mounting system that will let you run different scopes on the same gun, look no further than the Warne Quick Detach (QD) Ring set.

With a set of Warne QD Rngs on each scope, you can swap out optics in 10 seconds. Just throw the lever and pop your variable distance scope off. Slip your red dot in place and use the lever to lock it down tight. These rings will keep zero when you reattach your optic-no need to sight in your scope again.

Do you want to swap out a variable powered scope for a thermal scope or for a night vision scope? With this affordable set of rings, you can easily put them on all of your optics.

Durability

The Warne QD Rings are heavy-duty, American made rings are crafted out of stainless steel. Their electrostatic powder coating is pretty tough. These rings can take a beating.

I have them on my Weatherby 300 win mag. Despite my gun’s heavy recoil, they hold solid. I don’t have to tighten them.

I don’t treat my firearm or optics lightly. They get knocked, smacked, dragged through the dirt and submerged. I think my Leupold VX-5HD 3-15×44 might give out before these rings do.

Eye Relief

Warne QD Rings are designed to go on a weaver style mount. The adjustability for eye relief is limited to the length of my weaver rail.

These rings aren’t designed to forward mount a scope. Using these, expect to mount your scope within standard eye relief distances. Your eyepiece should be about 3 to 4 inches from your eye-depending on your scope’s specs.

Installation

Installing the Warn QD Ring set to my optics was super easy. They come with an allen key, all I needed was a torque wrench

and a gun vice.

Here’s what you’ll need to do:

• Remove the screws from each ring. Notice that they aren’t the same length-you’ll want to make sure you put them back in the right spots.
• Put your scope inside the two halves and add the recoil key. Heads up: Ruger and CZ rings will not have a specific recoil key.
• Start all 4 screws, but only tighten the bottom ones to 25 in/lbs using your torque wrench.
• Attach your rings to the base and make sure the recoil keys are set into the slots and press each ring towards the muzzle to lock the recoil keys in.
• Then tighten the throw lever tight with your thumb and forefinger-there’s no need to over do it.
• Next you can adjust your eye relief and reticle.
• After you have your eye relief and reticle as you’d like tighten the top screws to 25in/lbs with your torque wrench.
• Once all of the screws are set, you can pull out your quick release lever and face it-or index it-the direction you’d like.

Once I had my optic on securely and zeroed, I can remove and replace my optic to my heart’s delight without having to sight it in again.

Who’s the Warne QD Ring Set for?

These rings are for anyone who wants to exchange multiple optics on the same rifle. The Warne QD Rings are very easy to remove and reattach. Just throw the lever, remove your scope, slip in the next one and lock it down.

The Warne QD Ring set:

• Holds Zero
• American made
• Easy installation
• Durably crafted from stainless steel

If you are looking for a great rimfire scope to use with these rings check out this list.

7. Burris XTR Rings: Best for Picatinny Rail

Burris is known for designing some of the most robust and reliable riflescope rings on the market.

I bought the XTR signature rings because I needed additional vertical adjustment for shooting at extended ranges. I considered buying a 20 MOA Picatinny rail, but they were expensive and difficult to find for custom actions.

Let me tell you this: the Burris XTR Rings solved my problem.

By the end of this review, you’ll know if these XTR signature rings are for you.

Let’s get started!

Durability and Fit

The Burris XTR Rings are lightweight yet rugged.

Although they’re not made of steel, the rings are precision-machined from aircraft-grade aluminum and come in an elegant finish.

The shims are designed to offset your scope’s minor misalignment or build a custom MOA base for long-range applications. You won’t need to buy additional bases to adjust MOA.

By choosing the right combo of inserts, you can easily adjust for unusual ring/mount/barrel alignments.

The inserts can also be aligned to provide additional elevation or windage if necessary.

Plus:

The XTR rings allow perfect alignment of the scope without adding stress on the tube, thanks to its nylon inserts.

The well-constructed rings hold the scopes securely without leaving a mark on them.

Nothing is more disheartening than to have your expensive scope marred up by scope rings.

The XTR Signature Rings come in stated heights of 1.0″ (medium), 1.25″ (high), and 1.5″ (extra high) for 1″ and 30mm diameters, and only 1″ and 1.5″ in 34mm.

Remember, proper ring height is key to a perfect cheek weld for the most comfortable fit and accurate shooting.

Installation and Eye Relief

The installation is very straightforward.

The Burris XTR Rings come in a waterproof storage container with a set of instructions.

It includes all the tools and parts needed to make 0-40 MOA of cant in the scope mount.

Each ring set includes:

• One set of the +/- 0 MOA concentric.
• One set each of the +/-5 MOA and +/-10 MOA.
• Two sets of the +/-20 MOA.

Take note!

These rings don’t come with two sets of 0 inserts, so if you don’t want to change your MOA angle, you need to carefully install the two sets of +/- 20 MOA to achieve 0 MOA.

I also found that the six screws on the ring clamps make it easier to tighten without changing the scope level compared to the four screws set up on the regular signature zee rings.

I used a laser bore sight to get them dialed in. I was just 2 inches off zero at 200 yards.

I mounted a Burris XTR II 8-40×50 FFP scope to a 6.5 Creedmoor with these rings. I shot about 100 rounds through the rifle and found no issues holding zero.

Final Verdict

I’ve been a Burris fan for over five years and have several sets installed on my rifles.

What can I say?

The Burris XTR rings are one of the best AR scope mounts I own.

Here’s why:

• Holds zero
• Easy to install
• Good price point
• High-quality construction

Regardless if used for hunting, tactical, or target shooting, the Burris XTR Rings are an excellent choice.

If you’re on the hunt for the best handgun scopes, I’ve got the perfect list for you!

8. Seekins Precision: Best Scope Rings for Long Range Shooting

Seekins Precision scope rings are an ideal mount for long range shooters.

With a solid mount that you can count on, making those precision shots becomes a whole lot easier.

Seekins Precision provides that support and gives you the opportunity to concentrate on your shooting.

Want to hear more? Keep reading…

Durability

These scope rings were built like a tank.

They are made from 7075-T6 aluminum and precision machined for a high quality, sturdy feel.

Seekins Precision are a tad on the bulky side, but they don’t get in the way and they’re incredibly durable. The solid build allows them to handle the recoil from any caliber, including the heavy hitting 45-70, which I use for big game hunting.

Plus, you won’t have to do any lapping, like I usually do with cheaper rings.

They are also specifically made for the picatinny rail, so they’re one of the best AR scope mounts.

Installation

Since these were made for the picatinny rail, installing them on one is a breeze.

If you’re using the Seekins rail, the cross bolt fits right in the channel and there’s no movement at all. I’ve noticed movement there in other rings, which is why I love the Seekins precision so much.

While they do come with a T25 key, I had to use a T25 torx screwdriver to get it on the way I wanted. But once set up, it was perfect.

And my scope slipped right in and fit nice and tight in the rings. I’ve even tried these rings on a SKS rail and they worked perfectly.

Eye Relief

The Seekins Precision scope rings come in multiple heights to give you the clearance you need for your weapon.

Because they secure to a picatinny rail, you can position them to give you the best eye relief.

The firm, solid fit keeps your scope in place, so you never lose your zero.

At this point, I’ve shot over 200 rounds using these and haven’t had to readjust a thing.

Who’s the Seekins Precision Scope Rings for?

Seekins Precision scope rings are perfect for long range shooters that need to know they have a solid mount.

They are:

• Easy to install
• Strong and sturdy
• High quality aluminum
• Solid, with no movement

If you’re looking for the best quality scope rings on the market, try the Seekins Precision scope rings. You won’t be sorry.

How to Properly Mount a Rifle Scope

There are a lot of how-to’s out there on this subject, and some are better than others.

I realize that not everyone has a machine shop, and some of these steps are a bit of overkill for a rimfire plinker that won’t be used for competition or even to take game.

With that in mind, I’ll go through each step of the process for a professional scope job, but take it with a grain of salt. Depending on your gun, mounting, and scope, not all of these steps will be necessary.

If you are interested in a professional mounting kit, this video might interest you, and it’s a great how-to resource as well:

How to Attach the Scope Mount

The first step is to get your rail on the weapon. Obviously, if you are using an existing dovetail that is cut into your receiver, you can skip ahead.

Most rifles have some tiny screws in the top of the receiver that can be removed with a small flathead or phillips screwdriver. The threaded holes left behind are what the mount will attach to.

If there are no holes, then you may have to drill and tap the receiver, or some other machining may be necessary. A trip to the gunsmith is usually in order, as those who have a machining skillset and the right tools will know what to do. But here is a little more information:

Usually, the mount is placed on the receiver and the screw hole centers are marked with a punch. Holes are drilled in the receiver, and then a tap is used to thread them to the proper size and pitch.

Once you have the mounting holes located or drilled, it’s a simple matter of placing the mounting rail over the exposed holes, and then attaching it with the included screws, which are typically torx screws. 30 inch pounds is the usual torque recommendation.

To make life easy, ensure that your rail is made for your weapon platform, and you should have very few issues. Manufacturers make rails machined perfectly for just about any rifle out there.

How to Attach the Lower Half of the Scope Rings

I like to make sure everything is going to fit well before I start screwing it all together. I start by separating the rings and only attach the half with the lug on it to my rails. Just snug them up finger-tight for now.

Then I lay the scope across the open platform. If I have the wrong size rings, then it won’t fit right. Consider that check number one. The rings should hug the scope, but it should drop in easily. Check that the spacing between the rings is not interfering with the scope.

While you are at it, you may also want to check the eye relief to ensure that you are happy with the scope location, and also that the primary optic isn’t touching the barrel. There should be a little air gap between the two.

Optional: On Picatinny rails in particular, you can try to adjust the spacing where the front ring rests comfortably against the body of the scope (the bulge in the middle where the elevation and windage knobs are). Having that change in diameter butted up against the front ring will eliminate any possibility of the scope creeping forward later on.

Once you are happy with the placement, snug up the lower rings to the recommended torque from the ring manufacturer.

Lapping the Scope Rings

If you have a lapping rod, this is an additional step that will ensure that the scope is held snugly by the rings with minimal chance of the tube distorting over time.

First, lapping compound is applied to the insides of the rings. Mark both of the rings with a pencil or grease pen on top, so you will know which is the front and the back, and which side faces the muzzle. Once you start, you want to stay with the exact same configuration.

The lapping rod is secured into the rings just like a scope would be, but the rings are only tightened enough to hold it in place. It should still be able to slide freely.

Work the rod forward and back a couple dozen times, and then check the rings by taking everything back apart and examining the wear patterns.

Repeat this process until you’ve removed at least 75% of the surface finish.

How to Swab the Rings

You want to remove any residual oils or foreign matter.

I prefer rubbing alcohol and a rag, but there are several options out there.

Clean the rings thoroughly to remove grit, grime, lapping compound, oils, cosmoline, or anything else that will wipe off. A spray cleaner of some kind with a little straw attached to the head can be used to get inside the screw holes as well.

Clean everything, and then dry everything. To be extra safe, go over the whole setup with a can of compressed air when you are finished to dry out any leftover solvent.

How to Check the Level

Lay the scope onto the bottom rings, then cover with the top rings and start threading in the screws until the scope is held securely, but it can still twist and move if you turn it. Not tight enough to scratch the paint, but not so loose that it will move on its own.

Check that the gaps on either side of the rings are the same as well.

Once all of the screws are finger tight, secure the rifle in a vice and place a level bubble on any flat along the top of the receiver or barrel.

Both the rifle and the turret top should be perfectly level. This ensures that both will match, and that will give you a leveled finish.

Now start tightening the screws. Just a little snug at first, and if there are more than two per ring you will want to criss cross when tightening. A simple star pattern, such as forward-left, rear-right, rear-left, forward-right. Kinda like tightening lug nuts on a car wheel.

Once everything is nice and snug, apply the final tightening with a torque driver using the same pattern.

How to Sight In Your Rifle

With a new scope, it’s good to ensure that the scope is as close as it can be before actually putting a shot down range. There are generally two ways to do this.

At the range, set a short target at twenty or thirty yards and zero there first. When you are hitting the paper close to center, you can reach out to 100 yards and re-zero.

If you know the intermediate point of impact for your rifle caliber, you can set your short target at that range, and it should be pretty dang close when you reach out to a longer range.

A bore sight tool is another option. This is a little laser that chambers just like a bullet, and will put a dot on the target for you to align to.

But be aware:

You will still need to shoot some groups to get everything dialed in, but it should get you on the paper at 100 yards.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best scope ringsguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which scope ring will you pick for your firearm?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

Sometimes, you simply can’t fit all of your EDC kit into your pockets. Sure, you’ve probably got enough room for your knife, keys, flashlight, phone, and wallet, but once you start adding on a laptop, first aid kit, and rain jacket, having an EDC backpack can really help you maximize your effectiveness while out and about.

But what sets an EDC backpack apart from just your everyday run of the mill Jansport? What features should you key in on when looking for an EDC backpack?

Not to worry! We’re going to do a deep dive that’ll answer both of those questions and more! Here is not only a comprehensive buying guide for EDC backpacks, but a list of the 7 best EDC backpacks on the market in 2024.

Simply put, an everyday carry backpack is an extension for your EDC loadout so that you can carry more gear efficiently. They’re incredibly durable to stand up to the grind of being used day in and day out.

The biggest key word about EDC backpacks is that they help you be more efficient. That means that EDC backpacks are also not cumbersome. A good EDC pack isn’t the same thing as a large 60L pack that you’d through your camping gear into for a couple nights in the wilderness. It’s small enough that it won’t inhibit your mobility as you wear it through-out your day while it securely carries the rest of your EDC load out.

Now that we’ve properly defined what an EDC backpack is, let’s talk a bit about the features you want to be on the lookout for when you decide to start shopping for an EDC backpack. As we mentioned earlier, not all backpacks are created equal!

– Durability –

An EDC backpack must be able to stand up to the rigor of being used day in and day out. Keep an eye out for the material that the pack’s exterior as well as interior is made from. The toughest packs used nylon that is rated between 840D and 1680D ripstop nylon. Keep in mind that the higher the nylon rating, the bulkier and heavier the pack will be.

– Size –

Your EDC pack should be small enough that it’s easy to carry in a multitude of areas, but big enough to fit all of your EDC kit. Sizes are usually measured in liters. A good size for an EDC pack should be somewhere between 14 liters and 26 liters. Any smaller than 14 liters will limit the effectiveness of your pack and anything bigger than 26 liters will make it cumbersome to carry the pack everywhere you need to go.

– Storage –

Interior organization is an important factor to consider. While you can randomly stuff your EDC kit into the main body of the pack, it’ll make finding your gear a nightmare as you’ll likely need to unpack everything to find the piece of gear you need. Individual zippered pockets help to maximize your storage inside of the pack to make finding your gear a breeze, so be on the lookout for interior zippered pockets.

– Warranty –

As we’ve said time and time again, warranty is one of the best ways to tell how confident a company is in their product. While most companies offer some sort of limited warranty, they usually can’t hold a candle next to lifetime warranties. Companies that offer unlimited lifetime warranties typically design some of the most dependable and durable backpacks on the market, so be sure to double check the warranty of offered with the pack you’re interested in purchasing before buying.

1) Vanquest – ADDAX 18 Backpack

The Vanquest ADDAX 18 stands apart from most EDC backpacks in one surprising area: its high-vis interior. Blaze orange nylon fabric lines the inside of the backpack to make finding your gear in practically any light a non-factor.

The interior of the pack is divided up into 15 different pockets and slots, making it easier than ever to immaculately organize each piece of your EDC kit. With 18 liters of storage space inside of its water repellant exterior, you can rest assured that your gear is well protected.

One area to keep in mind when considering the Vanquest ADDAX 18 is that it has a limited lifetime warranty. While it does come with a 100-day money back guarantee, Vanquest limits warranty claims to defects with the manufacturing only. Everyday wear and tear isn’t covered by the warranty, so if you end up needing to get your pack repaired, you will likely incur some fees to have Vanquest repair it for you.

2) GoRuck – GR1

For a bigger pack with a beefier warranty, definitely checkout the GoRuck GR1. Coming in two sizes, 21 liters and 26 liters, the GR1 is capable of holding all of your essentials inside of its tough interior. The reinforced padding in the shoulder straps makes carrying practically any load feel like nothing at all, so load it down as much as you like! The extra padding in the shoulder straps is also assisted by a removeable hard plastic frame so that the pack remains rigid to improve stability as you carry it.

The warranty that protects the GR1 is incredibly generous. Covered by the GoRuck Scars Lifetime Warranty, you can send it back to GoRuck for repair for practically any reason. And if GoRuck can’t fix it, they’ll replace your pack free of charge.

The one area that the GR1 lacks in is its interior storage organization. While there are 3 different slots to store your gear in, there aren’t interior pockets to niche down your organization.

3) AER – City Pack

If you’re in need of a smaller pack, don’t sleep on the AER City Pack. The 14 liter interior is lined with interior zippered pockets to make organization incredibly easy. And while the shoulder straps aren’t as beefy as the GR1, the contoured back panel of the pack curves to the shape of your back for comfortable all-day carry.

Something that makes the City Pack unique is that it is designed with a specific “smart tracker” pocket. This allows you to insert a small tracker like AirTags, Tile Trackers, or even the Chipolo Tracker. Having a GPS tracker on board will ensure that your backpack is within arm’s reach, no matter what.

But like the Vanquest ADDAX 18, the City pack is only covered with a limited lifetime warranty. While it does cover manufacturing defects, normal wear and tear isn’t covered and can only be used with proof of purchase (aka, you have to hang onto your original receipt).

4) Vertx- Gamut 2.0 Backpack

For those who intend to carry a firearm with them in their EDC kit, the Vertx Gamut 2.0 is the ideal pack for you. Not only does the pack have a concealed area to holster a handgun and an extra magazine, but the top of the pack also comes with a quick draw retention loop that allows you to quickly access your EDC firearm at a moment’s notice. When not used for carrying a EDC firearm, the back panel can easily be used to carry a 16” laptop comfortably.

The 180° front pocket is a great design feature as it makes loading the front slot of the pack a breeze. And when you open it up to access your gear, you’ll find plenty of organizational slots to quickly find the exact piece of gear you need.

One area that the Gamut 2.0 lacks in is its exterior water bottle pocket size. It’s fairly small and only able to accommodate a 16 oz. water bottle. So if you’re looking to carry a larger water bottle like a Nalgene or a Hydroflask, you’ll likely need to store your bottle inside the pack.

5) Peak Design- Everyday Pack

If you’re into digital media creation or just want to ensure that each piece of your EDC kit has a slot to rest in, look no further than the Peak Design Everyday Pack. The Everyday Pack is a highly organized machine as the top flap of the pack opens up to reveal several small dividers that meticulously organize the 20 liters of interior storage space.

Carrying the Everyday pack is incredibly comfortable. With vented quick dry mesh lining the back panel and shoulder straps that pivot to match the contour of your back, you can carry the Everyday pack every day and all day without issue.

Another unique feature of the Everyday Pack is that it comes with stowable exterior straps on the exterior of the main body of the pack so you can cinch down a myriad of other items that won’t fit inside of the pack. Whether it’s a rain jacket, blanket, or anything else that’s too big to fit inside the interior of the pack, the Everyday Pack has a way to help you carry your gear where you need it to go.

6) Mystery Ranch- Rip Ruck 15

Mystery Ranch is a well-known brand in the hunting community. They’ve consistently built packs that are capable of packing in all of your hunting gear for a backcountry excursion and capable of packing out your camp plus practically all the meat you can carry from a successful hunt. The bottom line here is that Mystery Ranch knows how to make long lasting packs that are comfortable enough to carry the heaviest of loads.

Their experience in designing packs that make heavy loads feel like nothing at all makes them immensely qualified to offer the Rip Ruck 15 as their go to EDC backpack. With a top open compartment to access the main body of the pack, they’ve made it easier than ever to access each piece of gear inside of your EDC kit. The lid also comes outfitted with a couple of rows of MOLLE to make it easy to add additional storage options to the pack so you can customize it to your liking.

7) Alpaka- Elements Backpack

One of the most secure packs on our list is the Alpaka Elements Backpack. The anti-theft lockable zippers allow you to pass a small lock through the eyes of the zippers to ensure that all of your gear stays safe from anyone who’d want to rifle through your pack while you aren’t watching. The interior of the pack is loaded with organizational pockets to help you find a place for each piece of your EDC kit.

The most unique feature of the Elements Backpack is the row of nylon loops that allow you to place Alpaka’s quick detach clips for any small and frequently used pieces of gear that you carry. Simply attach the QD ring to the exterior of the piece of gear you want to be able to pull from your pack and clip it to the QD clip. Feed the gear into the QD clip and your gear is held in place securely until you need to grab it!

Alrighty, we’ve gone over a lot, so let’s recap. EDC backpacks are made from some of the most durable materials on the market to stand up to the wear and tear of everyday use. They’re perfectly suited to carry your essentials that help you get through each day, but not too big that carrying it would be cumbersome. Their storage organization is second to none, making finding each and every piece of your EDC kit a non-factor, even in low light scenarios. And they’re backed by a warranty that will repair or replace your pack at no cost to you!

All of these factors lend towards these packs costing a pretty penny. So if you’re looking to upgrade other parts of your EDC kit, be sure to be on the lookout for special discounts and bundles to help you stretch your dollar further. In fact, if you sign up for the Axwell Army Newsletter by clicking here, you’ll be sent a special discount on your first Axwell Wallet purchase!

The term “Ribeye in the Sky” is thrown around loosely in regard to the Sandhill Crane. Supposedly this giant bird has the best tasting meat of all wild game and fortunately for us, we have secured a couple of breasts to try for ourselves. In this edition of Grillmaster Tips we teamed up with our good friend Kirk also known as Instagram’s @the_grill_revealer to find out once and for all if the Sandhill Crane can live up to its “Ribeye in the Sky” status.

Setting up your Big Green Egg or Kamado grill

Fire up your charcoal quickly with a JJGeorge Grill Torch and level it off at around 300 degrees. Throw a couple of soaked hickory chunks into the charcoal to give the meat a light smokey flavor.

We are going to cook the breasts indirectly on cedar planks, so install your plate setter or other method of indirect heat if your are not using a Kamado grill. Also, now is a good time to soak your cedar planks in water if you haven’t done so already.

Prep

Make sure to soak the breasts for 24-48 hours in a half vinegar and half water mixture to draw the blood out of the meat. Once this is done, rinse it off and dry with a paper towel. We have two one pound Crane breasts and we will be using the same cooking method for both. However, we are going to season and present them differently to see what pairs best with the Sandhill Crane meat.

Chimichurri Sandhill Crane Breast:

For our first breast we are going to cover it in extra virgin olive oil and generously dry rub it all over with Spiceology’s Moss rub created by Sasquatch BBQ. This all purpose herb rub has a delicious chimichurri flavor. While the crane is cooking we are making a homemade chimichurri sauce as a topper for the meat (sauce recipe below).

Chimichurri Sauce Recipe:

1/2 cup – finely chopped fresh Italian parsley

1/2 cup – olive oil

2 tablespoons of white wine vinegar

salt and pepper to taste

* Combine all ingredients, stir well and set to side

Tennessee Smoke Sandhill Crane Breast with Truff Sauce:

For our second breast we are going to coat in olive oil and dry rub generously with Spiceology’s Tennessee Smoke inspired by Over the Fire Cooking’s Derek Wolf. No further prep is required as we will be topping this crane breast with Truff – Truffle infused hot sauce to give it a spicy and smoky flavor.

Cooking the Meat

Now that your Big Green Egg is at a stable temperature close to 300 degrees it is time to cook the meat. Place the seasoned crane breasts on your soaked cedar planks and place them on the grill. Cook indirectly for 30-45 minutes until the internal temperature of the breast reaches 120-125 degrees. Remove crane from grill and let the meat rest for 10 to 15 minutes to let the juices redistribute throughout the meat making it moist, tender, and delicious!

Slice and Serve

Now that your Sandhill Crane is perfectly cooked, it is time to slice it up, apply our sauce, and see how it tastes. We sliced our crane breast against grain and applied the chimichurri sauce to the breast with the herb based rub. We did the same for the Tennessee Smoke rubbed breast and topped it off with a drizzle of Truff sauce.

The Verdict

So on to the most important question… does Sandhill Crane live up to its nickname “The Ribeye in the Sky”? I must admit that we were very skeptical going into this thinking that the crane meat would taste like a large duck or goose breast… but boy were we wrong! It is tender, juicy and absolutely delicious! It is definitely more lean than a ribeye steak and the texture resembles that of a well cooked filet mignon. Although both versions of our dish were great, the consensus voted in favor of the Chimichurri breast as the Chimi sauce paired better with the flavor of the meat that the Truff did. We give Sandhill Crane a 10 out of 10 as far as wild game goes, as this is as good as it gets when cooking waterfowl.

Thanks so much for reading and as always leave us a note below to let us know how we are doing, or what you would like us to do next. Happy Grilling!

– Team JJGeorge

Grill Torch $37.99Grill Tables $469Grill Covers $59.99B.B. Prime $419Ash Baskets $79.99