Farm-Fresh Eggs are in high demand right now with store prices skyrocketing. People are turning to their chicken-keeping neighbors for food instead of choosing the convenience of the grocery store. This is a great thing! However, many people struggle to eat fresh eggs because they have been led to believe that these eggs are not safe for consumption. So today, we will dig into the question- “Are Farm-Fresh Eggs Safe to Eat?”

Are Farm-Fresh Eggs Safe to Eat?

Short answer- yes!

Longer answer- It can depend on a few different variables that hinge on the specific chicken keeper.

Let’s talk about these variables and the differences between farm-fresh and store-bought eggs.

Farm-Fresh Eggs are Different than Store-Bought Eggs

What makes eggs straight from the farm different than the eggs that you can purchase at the grocery store?

1. Age

The eggs that you find sitting in a grocery store refrigerator are between 6 weeks and 2 months old. While eggs sold by your local farmer can last that long (even longer when stored properly), he/she usually won’t sell them at that age.

2.NutrientContent

Farm-fresh eggs have been shown to contain less cholesterol, more vitamins & nutrients, and much more Omega 3 fatty acids than typical store-bought eggs. The nutritional value of an egg is related to the diet of the bird (think solely pellet-fed vs. homemade feed vs. free-range) so this factor can vary from one farm to the next.

3. Protective Coating

Most eggs sold straight from the farm still have the bloom intact. Bloom is a protective coating that the hen covers her egg in before she lays it. Eggs sold in grocery store refrigerators have had this bloom removed so bacteria can freely enter through the pores in the shell.

Factors that Affect Egg Safety

Eggs from backyard chickens are safe to eat when the birds are healthy, the coop is clean, the eggs have an intact bloom, and they are handled properly. It is a good idea to get to know the farmer/homesteader you buy eggs from (and use good practices if you are selling eggs).

Be aware that many chicken owners do not allow on-site tours of their coops due to biosecurity issues. However, they should be willing to tell you about their practices.

Flock Living Conditions & Health

The condition of the coop, run, feed, and water are all related to egg safety. The flock should have access to:

• A dry, clean, and draft-free coop
• Clean nest boxes-1 box per 4 chickens is recommended
• Fresh and clean water (The water may get dirty throughout the day, but should be changed as needed.)

Flock health is very important as well because a sick flock could equal sick (or lower quality) eggs. Sick birds should be quarantined and treated separately from healthy chickens.

Egg Handling Practices

• Eggs should be collected daily and multiple times per day during extreme heat and cold.
• Farm-fresh eggs can be left unwashed and out on the counter at room temperature OR they can be washed and placed in the refrigerator. Unwashed eggs are usually the better option (we will talk about why in a minute).
• The oldest eggs should be used/sold first. Using an egg organizer like an egg skelter is a good way to keep the oldest eggs moving out first.
• Egg cartons CAN safely be reused
• Broken and cracked eggs should be discarded.

Intact Bloom

An egg is laid with a porous shell. This means that bacteria and other small particles can move in and out of the shell. To protect the egg’s contents, the hen produces a protective layer called bloom.

The bloom is a protective coating that a hen places on her eggs before she lays them. This coating protects the egg by sealing the eggshell pores, preventing bacteria from permeating the shell. This is why most backyard chicken keepers advocate for selling unwashed eggs.

With the protective bloom intact, eggs can be stored at room temperature for 2 weeks (sometimes up to a month). Once the egg is washed, however, the bloom is removed and the egg can no longer be safely stored at room temp. Washed eggs must be refrigerated to keep bacteria from growing in and on them.

When Should Eggs Be Washed?

If you have a clean coop with clean nesting boxes, then typically your eggs will be clean. However, that is not always the case. When it is rainy outside, the birds can bring mud in on their feet & bottoms which transfers to the egg shells.

This isn’t an issue since the bloom is still intact, but if you are selling eggs, your customers may prefer dirty eggs to be washed. Otherwise, there is no need to wash farm-fresh eggs until just before you plan to eat them.

Eggs should be washed in warm water, slightly warmer (by about 20 degrees F) than the shell. This helps to keep bacteria from moving back into the egg through the shell. Using cold water can create a vacuum that pulls bacteria into the egg.

How to Store Fresh Eggs Safely

Storing fresh eggs is just a bit different than storing eggs from the grocery store. This is because of the difference in egg age and the presence of the bloom. There are several ways to preserve and extend the shelf life of eggs such as by freezing, dehydrating, water glassing, and freeze-drying.

Shelf Life of Fresh Eggs

• Washed fresh eggs in the refrigerator: 6-8 weeks
• Unwashed fresh eggs in the refrigerator: 3-6 months
• Unwashed fresh eggs at room temperature: 2-3 weeks.

Shelf Life of Store-Bought Eggs

Store-bought eggs are washed and must be stored in the refrigerator (this is at least true in the United States). They are usually good for 3-4 weeks after the packing date. The packing date is listed as a Julian date on each egg carton. Do not confuse this with the “best by” date.

How to Recognize Bad Eggs

If you want to test your eggs before cracking them, you can use a few different methods:

1. Egg Float Test

The float test is a little bit controversial. Some people swear by it and some say that it is unreliable. Place an egg in a bowl of water. If the egg floats it is bad, if it sinks it is good. The idea is that a bad egg will float because the air cell inside has grown large enough to make it buoyant.

1. Candling

Candling is the process of shining a light through the egg to view the contents- almost like an x-ray. You can use this method to see if a chick has begun to develop (if it has been with the hens for several days) or to see if there are dark spots that may indicate a rotten egg.

1. Shake Test

You can shake an egg close to your ear to listen for a sloshing sound. The idea with this test is that as the egg ages, the air pocket grows and the contents shrink so there is more room for the yolk and white to slosh around.

1. Crack into another bowl

You can also simply crack your eggs one at a time in a separate bowl. This keeps one bad egg from ruining the entire batch that you are cooking with. Just note that if you do crack a bad egg, you may smell it for a while.

With proper flock management and egg handling, you can lay the question, “Are farm-fresh eggs safe?” to rest!

Raising Backyard Chickens

Keep reading to learn even more about the joys of raising backyard chickens on the homestead!

• Basics of Raising Chickens
• Using Cardboard Bedding in the Chicken Coop
• 6 Reasons Every Homestead Needs a Rooster
• How Do You Keep Chickens Warm?
• How to Treat Common Chicken Illnesses
• 10 Ways to Help Chickens Beat the Heat
• 10 Dual-Purpose Chicken Breeds
• Save Money Raising Chickens for Eggs

Last Updated on October 20, 2022 by Evan

It is no secret that dogs are the most efficient trackers on the planet. They are very useful for hunts and save the hunters a lot of time and effort.

Here is our rundown of the best deer tracking dogs breeds:

Bloodhound

Bloodhounds are highly efficient trackers and are widely used by hunters to track deer. These scent hounds were originally bred for hunting large game-like deer and boars and are extremely persistent once they catch a scent.

They are also famous for effortlessly pursuing cold trails that other dogs aren’t able to track. This is why bloodhounds are also used by the police to track missing persons and fugitives.

The bloodhound is also the first animal whose evidence is considered legally legitimate in court. They also have a keen sense of hearing which helps them while tracking prey.

Even though they are quite relentless on a hunt, they make very loving and obedient companions to humans. They have a gentle nature and make good pets for families.

Beagle

Beagles are one of the most popular dog breeds as pets. They are also very intelligent and very useful on a hunt. Bred as hunting dogs, they have great tracking instincts and love working.

Beagles have a lot of energy and need adequate training to keep them occupied the right way. They love being stimulated and thus tend to make themselves very useful while hunting.

They have a very loud bark which comes in handy while chasing deer in thick forests. Beagles have short legs , but it does not deter them from chasing fast-moving prey like deer.

Their astute sense of smell has led to them being employed as detection dogs for agricultural imports all over the world.

German Shepherd

German Shepherds are fast, intelligent and highly trainable. Combined with their impressive tracking abilities, these skills make them very adept at tracking animals like deer and foxes.

With a high level of focus and a keen sense of smell, they make very efficient hunting dogs. Distractions do not bother them and they usually finish the job at hand even with difficult circumstances.

They are known all over the world for their vast capabilities. German Shepherds make up a significant population of K-9 units.

With a long history as working dogs, German Shepherds have proven themselves capable of all kinds of work including police work, bomb detection and disability assistance.

Scottish Deerhound

These scent hounds were specially bred for hunting deer. They have an impressive stature and are often mistaken for greyhounds.

Scottish deerhounds are very fast and are capable of chasing prey through rough terrain. This is because they are sighthounds, not scenthounds. They were used to hunt deer by coursing, a hunting method based on speed.

They have obedient personalities and are usually very eager to hunt. Their enthusiasm needs to be put to good use through training and outdoor activities. Deerhounds could turn destructive if they get bored.

Dachshund

Their looks can be deceiving but dachshunds actually make great hunting dogs. Though they were bred to track down and apprehend smaller prey like rabbits and badgers, they can flush deer out of forests or sniff out dead or injured deer.

Dachshunds have a long history as hunting dogs and the urge to track is quite innate in them. Despite their short stature, they have very good endurance. Their only flaw is perhaps their tendency to get distracted.

This problem can be tackled with a lot of dedicated training. Food is a huge motivator for dachshunds, so you might want to keep a lot of treats on hand while training this highly capable dog breed.

What they lack in size, they more than make up for with their impressive sense of smell. In fact, the part of the brain that is responsible for analyzing scents is 40 times bigger in dachshunds than humans.

Plott Hound

Plott hounds are native to North Carolina. They are also the official state dog and serve as K9 deputies in the sheriff’s department. Plott hounds are well built, strong and quite suited to hunt big game like deer.

They love a challenge and do not fear intense activities. Curious and athletic by nature, Plott hounds are widely used as hunting dogs all over the country.

With impressive speed and plenty of stamina, Plott hounds are relentless on the hunt and do not give up until the job is done.

Great Dane

Originating in Germany, Great Danes are one of the largest hunting dog breeds in the world. Deer hunters often use them for their speed and strength.

Their nature is completely opposite to their appearance—they are quite gentle and love company. Though they aren’t really known for their sense of smell, Great Danes are working dogs and have proven themselves useful to deer hunters.

Basset Hound

Basset Hounds are scent hounds bred for hunting small game. They have a very keen sense of smell and have an impressive running speed despite their short legs. They also have great stamina, which helps them on long hunts.

Basset Hounds are very fond of tracking and love hunting, making them enthusiastic partners to hunters. They have a playful temperament and make great pets for families with children.

They have a very independent nature which, while helpful in hunting, could be a problem while training. Owners need to spend a lot of time and energy to make sure their Basset Hounds are trained properly.

Black and Tan Coonhound

The Black and Tan Coonhound is native to America and was bred as a hunting dog. It has great tracking abilities and hunts entirely by scent. It is famous for its success with tracking down cold scents and is frequently used for search and rescue missions.

They are quite large and very efficient in hunting big game like deer. Despite their persistence and tenacity during a hunt, Black and Tan Coonhounds are quite calm and friendly indoors.

They are quite independent, making them efficient hunters. They need a lot of training as they can get a little stubborn, as is typical of hunting dogs.

English Springer Spaniel

English Springer Spaniels make great hunting companions. Though they were originally bred to flush prey out of hiding, they are effective at tracking bigger game-like deer or foxes.

Known as gun dogs, English Springer Spaniels would chase birds into flight, who would then be shot down by hunters. They also retrieved prey, making them very useful to hunters.

They are very enthusiastic and always eager to please, making them easy to train and work with. With amazing stamina, tracking and retrieving abilities, the Springer Spaniel is an amazing tracking dog.

Belgian Malinois

The Belgian Malinois resembles the German Shepherd in both stature and ability—it has a keen nose and is often used as a service dog by the police and the military.

They are very intelligent and extremely loyal to humans. Known for forming deep connections with humans, these dogs are highly trainable and love being engaged.

Their endurance level, strength, smartness and tracking capabilities make them efficient hunters. They have a lot of energy and do not give up the pursuit until they hunt down their prey.

German Shorthaired Pointer

German Shorthaired Pointers are favored due to their expertise in tracking both on land and water. Traditionally a breed hunting, they are quite cooperative and have a strong hunting drive.

They have a high energy level and excel at many activities, making them quite popular at dog sports. Apart from being used as hunting dogs and family pets, German Shorthaired Pointers are also used in search and rescue missions.

They have a playful nature and love being around humans and other animals. It might take a bit longer to train them since they don’t usually reach mental adulthood until they turn at least two years old.

Today I’m going to show you the best red dot scope for turkey hunting.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over a dozen optics alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best red dot sight, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

Why use a red dot sight to hunt turkey?

Turkey hunting needs reliable magnification and durability. Red dot sights are known for fast target acquisition, though, and turkey hunters have to move quick.

Red dot sights have unlimited eye relief, so you can use your peripheral vision. They’re a lighter red dot scope for turkey hunting across hard terrain. Basically, turkey hunters should use a red dot.

What qualities should you look for?

Not all red dots are built equally. Some are manufactured with better parts while others are designed for a specific purpose. With that in mind, here are some important factors to consider.

Lens Clarity

When you’re turkey hunting, quickness matters. A big part of being able to sight on your target is the reticle. Some red dots have larger dot reticles that can make it hard to see everything.

Since turkey hunting is outdoors, it also helps to have a green dot option. Red dots are great for certain environments, but green is better for outdoor use. It’s just a little more expensive.

The price is worth it, though. Green dot reticles are better to stand out against tree surroundings.

Design

You never know how long you’ll be turkey hunting, so it’s good to have lighter gear. A red dot sight doesn’t weigh as much as rifle scopes, and they’re usually more mobile.

It’s also important to have durable construction. You might even want a red dot sight that’s small enough to co-witness, so remember your turkey hunting goals.

Battery

Most red dot sights for turkey hunting use batteries that you’ll have to replace when they run out. It’s better to use one that has a common battery. Of course, you also want your battery to last.

Battery life can depend on a number of factors beyond hours of use. The brightness setting you need for turkey hunting, for example, can drain the battery faster.

Versatility

If you’re like me, you have a few guns in your collection. It’s always better if the red dot sight, like something from Vortex, can fit on several, or all, of them. This can save you money and give an accuracy edge to your shooting across the board.

The Best Red Dot Scope for Turkey Hunting

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best red dot scopes for turkey hunting:

1. Trijicon MRO: Best Overall
2. Aimpoint PRO: Best for Long Range
3. Holosun 510c: Best for the Money
4. Vortex Venom: Best for Budget

1. Trijicon MRO: Best Overall Red Dot Scope

One of the best manufacturers out there is Trijicon, and their MRO has quickly become my favorite red dot. It has an impressive number of features, but you’ll definitely pay for them.

Glass Clarity & Reticle Patterns

Trijicon built the MRO with efficiency in mind. It has a multi-coated lens, so I haven’t had issues with smudges or clarity.

I love how easy it is to use, too. The MRO has 8 ambidextrous settings for brightness, with 4 of them meant for night turkey hunting. The 2 MOA reticle has an intense dot that I can see in countless conditions.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

Unlimited eye relief is a great feature of red dot sights for turkey hunting. However, the Trijicon MRO stands out with one of the best fields of vision I’ve seen, literally.

Durability and Weight

The high-grade aluminum tube is matte black. It only weighs a little over 5 ounces, so it’s easy on my arms for longer turkey hunting. The 2.6-inch length also lets me mount a rifle scope to co-witness.

Once I mounted it, the MRO didn’t shift at all from recoil. Even my shotgun sights didn’t move my zero, so it’s a serious piece of machinery. Trijicon’s optic is waterproof and extremely durable.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The adjustment knobs on my MRO give me a lot of control over the settings. Each click is ½ MOA with a total range of 70 MOA for elevation and windage.

I don’t have any trouble getting to the knobs, either. The elevation is on top of the red dot sight and windage is controlled on the side.

Parallax & Magnification

The MRO is parallax-free, so the red dot doesn’t move with the sight. I haven’t had any issues with precision or maintaining my target. As with most red dots, the magnification is 1x.

Mounting & Rings

If you need a red dot sight that can mount most of the weapons in your collection, Trijicon has you covered. I’ve been able to put it on every weapon I own, so it works for shotgun sights.

On top of that, the MRO comes with a quick-release mount. If there was a situation where I could co-witness, which hasn’t happened yet, I could swap out scopes easily.

Battery

A highlight of the MRO is the battery. I’ve never had to replace it and it’s supposed to last for 5 continuous years. I also haven’t noticed any issues with the higher brightness levels.

Is the Trijicon MRO worth it?

It’s a little more expensive, but the Trijicon MRO is one of the best red dots I’ve ever used for anything. That means it’s perfect for any turkey hunting needs.

Why? It’s got:

• 2 MOA red dot
• Multi-coated lens
• Fantastic brightness settings
• 5-year battery use
• Quality components

For the price you’re paying, Trijicon doesn’t have my favorite warranty. It only lasts 3 years, you need proof of purchase, and it’s non-transferrable. Still, with the durability, I don’t foresee needing to repair or replace my red dot sight anytime soon.

If you want efficiency without the Trijicon price, though, you might like the Burris FastFire III. It’s a little older, but it’s got some great features, like a 3 MOA reticle for improved accuracy.

2. Aimpoint PRO: Best Long Range Red Dot Scope (rewrite)

Another trusted name in sights for turkey hunting is Aimpoint. They offer the ACO and the upgraded Aimpoint PRO, and I always recommend the latter if you can afford it. There’s a reason law enforcement and the military use the PRO.

Glass Clarity & Reticle Patterns

Similar to the Trijicon, the Aimpoint PRO has a 2 MOA reticle and multi-coated lenses. The lens reduces glare, so I’ve never had a problem shooting during the daytime.

Thanks to the red dot picture quality, turkey hunting at 150 yards or farther. With some sights for turkey hunting, night vision makes the image grainy. The PRO retains a clear picture.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

You have the traditional unlimited eye relief with a PRO. I can see everything in my field of view clearly, so I can watch for movement outside of my red dot sight.

Durability and Weight

Aimpoint is one of the best manufacturers in optics. They use quality parts for their red dot scope for turkey hunting, so I’ve never had any issues with durability. The PRO’s tube is made of aircraft-grade aluminum.

The matte-black finish has water wicking and it’s waterproof, so you don’t have to worry about rain. Humidity isn’t even a problem, because the tube is sealed to be fog-proof.

The PRO is shock-proof and scratch-proof. I’ve used mine for a while and it’s survived all of my turkey hunting trips without a scratch. I was surprised at how tough it is, since it’s only 11.6 ounces.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage knobs on the Aimpoint PRO are covered with aluminum caps. They’re safe, and easy to adjust with the included tool. With ½ MOA clicks, I was able to zero my PRO at 100 yards with ease.

Parallax & Magnification

The Aimpoint PRO is parallax-free with a 1x magnification, which is pretty standard for a red dot sight.

Mounting & Rings

The PRO mounts on a low-profile Picatinny rail. Since I’ve mounted it, I haven’t had to worry about it moving from recoil on any of my firearms.

Plus, the low profile helps with my field of view. The PRO works if you need shotgun sights for turkey hunting.

Battery

The Aimpoint PRO red dot uses a 2L76 battery, which is a little less common. Still, it can run continuously for 30,000 hours, so you won’t be replacing it for at least 3 years.

The highest brightness settings might affect that, but I haven’t had any issues with battery life in the last year. My PRO has 10 brightness options. 6 of them are for daytime shooting.

The back 4 are specifically built for night vision compatibility. That means I don’t have to worry if I’m still turkey hunting when the sun goes down, and the battery hasn’t failed me yet.

Is the Aimpoint PRO worth it?

I’d argue that the Aimpoint ACO and the PRO are both worth it, but the PRO is definitely superior. The ACO has similar features, but they don’t stack up to the PRO for long range.

Here’s why:

• Waterproof, fog-proof, shockproof
• 10 settings for brightness
• 30,000 hour battery life
• Night vision

Aimpoint has a pretty good warranty, depending on your purpose. If you’re using your PRO for competitive or professional shooting, it’s only good for 2 years.

Personal use at the range and turkey hunting, though, comes with a 10-year warranty for defects, repairs, and replacement.

3. Holosun 510c: Best for the Money Red Dot Scope

One of the newer names that impressed me is Holosun. They offer a number of optics for different needs, and the 510c reflex sight is a perfect red dot sight for turkey hunting.

Glass Clarity & Reticle Patterns

The multi-coated lens of my 510c is clear, and the LED reticle helps make the image pop. It comes with a red or green dot reticle, which is perfect for anyone with astigmatism or eye struggles.

One feature that separates the Holosun is that it can switch reticles. While I love the 2 MOA red dot, it can swap to a 65 MOA circle. It can even combine the two for a dot inside a circle.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

Unlimited eye relief and a wide field of view are pretty standard with the 510c. I didn’t notice anything wrong or better.

Durability and Weight

The Holosun 510c weighs just over 8 ounces. The high-grade aluminum tube is also 3.3 inches long, so it easily fits on a rail to co-witness. I love that the sight has a titanium hood, too.

Holosun uses great products for components, so I haven’t put a dent in my 510c. It’s been on many turkey hunting trips without any issues, especially since it’s water- and dust-proof.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The 510c comes with a T10 L key, which is used to adjust the elevation and windage knobs. It’s easy enough to do on the fly, and the ½ MOA clicks make it easy to zero your red dot sight.

Both elevation and windage adjustments max out at 50 MOA.

Parallax & Magnification

My Holosun 510c is parallax-free past 50 yards with a 1x magnification. However, the anti-reflective coating on my lenses helps with farther shots.

Mounting & Rings

One thing that I’d use as a con is that it doesn’t come with a mount. However, it can be mounted to be a low-profile, absolute co-witness red dot sight. It’s easy to mount with the tool, too. This is great for shotgun sights for turkey hunting.

Battery

Thankfully, the Holosun 510c uses a CR2032 battery, which is very easy to find a replacement for. With 50,000 hours of battery life, though, you won’t need to.

Not only can the battery last for a long time, but Holosun extended that efficiency with two amazing features: Shake Awake and Solar Failsafe.

The former means your 510c will turn on when it senses motion. The latter means that your Holosun red dot sight can use solar power to conserve battery if you’re in the sun.

As for brightness levels, you have 12 settings to choose from. 10 of them are for daylight, and I like to keep mine around 7 or 8, depending. 11 and 12 are perfect for night vision, too, so I’ve gotten a lot of use out of the 510c.

Is the Holosun 510c worth it?

Definitely. Holosun may be newer, but they’ve certainly done their homework. The 510c delivers a premium red dot sight at a premium price.

Why? It’s got…

• 3 reticle options
• Extended battery plus solar options
• 12 brightness settings

Holosun has a 10-year warranty on their red dot sights. That amount of time is great, because the durability and battery of this sight mean I won’t need to consider a warranty for a lot of years.

4. Vortex Venom: Best Budget Red Dot Scope

If you’re operating on a budget, Vortex is one of the best manufacturers you can look at. The Vortex Venom isn’t necessarily the cheapest, but it’s the best quality for your dollar.

Glass Clarity & Reticle Patterns

For starters, the Venom sticks out because it has a reticle that can switch between 3 MOA and 6 MOA. Different red dot sizes can be better for short- or long-range shots.

Whether you use 6 MOA for long-range shots or not, you still want a clear sight picture. The lenses on the Venom are fully multi-coated for the perfect image.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

As usual, you’re getting unlimited eye relief and you can see everything inside and out of your Vortex Venom.

Durability and Weight

Something that I love about the Venom is how light it is. While none of the red dot sights on this list are heavy, 1.1 ounces takes the cake.

Aluminum is a lightweight material, which is why the Vortex’s tube is made with that. The tube itself is sealed with an o-ring to prevent fog or humidity from affecting the image.

You’ll get a waterproof, fog-proof, scratch-resistant red dot scope thanks to the ArmorTek coat to your Venom. For a red dot sight under $300, Vortex makes a great argument as the best.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The adjustments on your elevation and windage knobs aren’t quite as precise as some of the more-expensive sights. Still, 1 MOA isn’t bad and they’re not hard to get to.

The max range of elevation and windage is 130 MOA and 100 MOA, respectively. It was easy to zero and I’ve barely had to readjust since.

Parallax & Magnification

Even though it has a 1x magnification with the typical parallax-free nature of red dots, I can easily hit things at 150 yards consistently.

Mounting & Rings

The Venom is also one of the most versatile red dot sights. You can put it on a Weaver or Picatinny rail and it’s adjustable for the height of your cheek weld.

Vortex made an affordable red dot sight for turkey hunters. If you need shotgun sights when you’re turkey hunting, this could be the red dot for you.

Battery

One restriction of the Venom is the 150 hours of battery life, but that’s at the brightest setting. Your CR1632 battery can handle all 10 levels of brightness for a long time.

While the 150 hours for peak brightness may seem low, you’ll get a continuous 30,000 at the lowest. It’s about your purpose and when you plan to go turkey hunting.

Is the Vortex Venom worth it?

One of the best names in optics is Vortex and the Venom has a lot of great features for the cost. It’s the only reflex sight on this list and worth adding to your collection.

Why? It’s got…

• 3 or 6 MOA reticles
• Variable battery life
• 10 brightness options
• Lightweight composition

Another great quality for the cost is the Vortex warranty. It’s transferable with a lifetime warranty to get repairs no-questions-asked. I’ve loved their customer service so far and they work fast.

Still, if you’d rather go even lower, you can get the Vortex StrikeFire II for $50 less. It’s also a great red dot scope for turkey hunting on a budget. The StrikeFire II has similar features for a little less.

Final Verdict

The best red dot scope for turkey hunting comes down to preference and purpose, but my top recommendation would be the Trijicon MRO. It’s more expensive, but you’re paying for quality and versatility.

You also get both colors of reticle and a long-lasting battery for any situation. If you need a red dot scope for a unique reason, though, you can’t go wrong with the other three.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best red dot scope for turkey hunting guide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which red dot sight will you pick for turkey hunting? Or perhaps you already have one and would like to share your thoughts.

Either way, let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

FAQ:

Undeniably one of the hottest topics in archery today is the subject of high FOC. Some see this is just another trend, while others firmly state that this information is long overdue, and it will never go away. Trendy or not, there is no denying that FOC has its place and is important for an archer to have at least a basic understanding of how it effects arrow flight, accuracy, and penetration. I have been a long standing member of the high FOC Club, but just like anything else, you can have too much of a good thing.

Let’s look at some of the pros and cons of a high FOC setup.

WHAT IS FOC?

Lets start with a quick review of what FOC is. It stands for “Front of Center”. It is a percentage equation of your hunting arrows total weight that is located at the front half of the arrow. It is important to note that this calculation is with your broadhead on the arrow. The more weight you have at the front of your arrow, the more forward your balance point will be. Below is a great video explaining some easy steps and instructions to calculate your FOC.

PROS OF HIGH FOC

There are many opinions on the actual percentage consideration for high FOC with above 15% generally being considered high. With Doctor Ashby’s conclusion that there is a substantial penetration gain with arrows having 18% FOC or higher, you don’t have to look far for hunters that are promoting over 20% and even into the 30+ percent FOC range!

Lets look at some of the pros of high FOC. The biggest benefit to me in shooting high FOC is PENETRATION. There is no denying that increasing your front of center gives you more weight, more momentum, and more “pulling power”. Literally, high FOC helps “pull” your arrow through your intended target. I really think that pulling power should be considered a factor in a new hunting arrow formula we could call pass through potential. Where FOC X Draw Weight was divided by Pulling Power (P2) to get a number we could associate with a high probability for a pass through…we will work on that. 😊 Anyway, you get the idea. Penetration favors high FOC.

Another benefit towards penetration is to consider that with most high FOC arrow setups, you will be using a stiffer spine arrow. This causes less flex in your arrow as it enters your target allowing for more penetration, considering that the more flex you have, the more drag you create and that will impede penetration. High FOC can also help QUIET your bow, and some will say it improves your ACCURACY. For me, I do not feel accuracy really gets a big boost from increasing your front of center, but you will certainly give your setup a boost in its performance, so inherently your accuracy could benefit.

One great side effect of spending time playing with your FOC is that you are spending more time with your bow, allowing for improvements to occur in several areas of tuning your entire setup.

CONS OF HIGH FOC

With every good thing, there is also a point of simply over doing it. Generally when I am on the over doing it subject, I am referring to ice cream, but FOC is definitely in the same category, as it is all good until you have too much. No mater what you do in archery you cannot escape the laws of physics, with the law of gravity being the big factor here. At some point, too much FOC is no longer an asset. Remember the lawn dart game? Think of continuously adding weight to the end of your lawn dart. Eventually you wont be able to toss it close to hoop, let alone in it. Even though the dart will make a bigger divot in the dirt with each weight increase, if you cant reach your target what good is it?

When you get your FOC too high you are going to be sacrificing something. That something is going to be TRAJECTORY and SPEED. To be clear, as you move up in FOC, you are going to loose a little of both of those things no matter what, but with the right balance the good exceeds the bad. Too high of an FOC and you could find that a weary whitetail at a long distance can easily jump the string because your arrow is slower, and dropping more rapidly.

Another common issue with high FOC is using the WRONG SPINE arrow. High FOC will naturally weaken the spine of your arrow, and thus it could take your arrow longer to recover off the riser causing potential accuracy problems. Since adding more weight to the front of your arrow weakens the spine, it is very important to make sure you have the right spined arrow out of the gate. Starting your FOC process with an under spined arrow could even be dangerous, so consult your bow and arrow manufacturer before you jump into high FOC.

The last con I would like to mention is COST. If you get serious about high FOC, you may also get serious about spending money. Stiff spine, specialty arrows, weighted inserts, and heavy weight broadheads all come with an increased price tag. It doesn’t have to cost a fortune to shoot high FOC, but you can get caught up in it all very easily and quickly wind up with a single arrow that is over $50.00.

I am a big fan of high FOC, but as you have read it is important find a happy medium. You must factor in your average shot distance and your target species into the equation when you decide to go heavy up front. Also, be sure and be aware of your arrow spine when moving towards high FOC. You do not want to have an important factor like accuracy suffer because you are under or over spined. Thankfully, this process is not difficult and can be fun getting everything tuned just right to suit your needs.

Thank you for reading, and good luck in the field!

Chris Creed, Afflictor Broadheads

By GunSpot

In the late 1890s, the U.S. military began using a newly developed round that would command the battlefield all the way to World War II. The .30-06 caliber was a cutting-edge ammunition technology now that smokeless powder had almost completely replaced blackpowder. It served well on the battlefield chambered in the 1903 Springfield bolt-action rifle during the First World War and, of course, in the M1 Garand during the next World War.

With new advancements, forces needed the performance of the .30-06 150-gr. load, but in a shorter cartridge — which required a shorter action. That is how the 7.62x51mm NATO round, and its .308 Winchester civilian sibling, was born. In 1952, the round was introduced commercially after being developed for the military. Two years later it was adopted by NATO with its new designation being 7.62×51 NATO.

The United States has long loved the .30-caliber round and it has been used in standard-issue rifles and machine guns for decades. In fact, militaries around the world have used guns chambered in .308. Popular guns like the M14, M60, M1919 and countless others. The .308 caliber is fast and carries one heck of a punch. But how effective is the caliber at distance?

In this video and article, I explore the effective range of the .308.

Reaching Out

The .308 Winchester is the most popular sniper/counter-sniper round by far. It far outweighs any other caliber when it comes to standard-issue rifles.

But first off, let’s define what “effective” is. When we talk about the effectiveness of a caliber, we are usually referring to the distance that the round can still humanely kill.

In a hunting scenario, it’s not good sportsmanship to wound your game, only leaving them to die a slow death or live the rest of their lives maimed. If you are hunting prairie dogs, .308 would be lethal easily out to a mile. However, if we are talking about shooting that medium-size North American game like a whitetail deer, the distance would be much closer. In fact, I argue that the effective range of .308 on deer is 300 yards.

The round easily has enough energy to kill whitetail deer at 300 yards. But by 500 yards, the bell-shaped trajectory of the .308 makes the shot unethical for the majority of shooters. Now, before you .308 lovers hate on me, that doesn’t mean you couldn’t do it. But if your skillset doesn’t include high accuracy at that distance, it wouldn’t be right for you to take the shot.

We asked Maximum Life Expectancy’s Chief Instructor, Grant LaVelle, about his past as a Marine and SWAT sniper. In the Marine Corps, they would shoot .308 to 1,000 yards; however, in SWAT it was much closer. What was preached to SWAT snipers was that in a law enforcement capacity there were no second shots. In certain military situations, that might be acceptable. But in law enforcement, snipers need immediate incapacitation to save lives.

When a sniper fires a round, he needs complete de-amination of the threat. So, we are talking about 100% accuracy in the cranial vault that houses the brain. If hostages are involved, which they often are, the police can’t have there be any chance of causing harm to innocent lives. Grant stated they were never granted clearance to take a shot over 200 yards. In most cases, that would require a special circumstance, special permission and thoughtful consideration.

Conclusion

So, what is the effective range of .308? It depends on the need.

If we are talking about putting down a moose versus taking down a prairie dog, the distance will vary. Can it kill at one mile? Yes, but it depends on what you’re shooting.

If you want to just hit a steel target it could even shoot farther than a mile. In a law enforcement sniper application, however, it seems they won’t take a shot over 200 yards unless absolutely necessary.

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There’s a ton of options out there nowadays when it comes to selecting a riflescope. You have MOA, MIL, various magnifications, different objectives, tube sizes and a ton more. But one of the hardest decisions seems to be around what focal plane to select.

In the past, I’ve always used second focal plane riflescopes for hunting. They have worked great for me on my rifles and I’ve taken a ton of animals with them, but a few years ago I wanted to try something new so I switched to a first focal plane system. Mainly this switch happened because I wanted to help people out with their decisions so I could better explain what option might work best for them and my opinion on them. They both work great, but I wanted to have real-world experience behind each design.

What is a first focal plane (FFP) riflescope?

For starters, we need to define a first focal plane riflescope. This is probably the scope version that most people in hunting are a little unfamiliar with. On a first focal plane riflescope, the reticle grows as the image gets bigger when increasing magnification and it does so at the same rate. And as you decrease magnification, the reticle also shrinks as the image gets smaller. This is all because the reticle is located in front of the magnifying lens assembly in the scope.

A first focal plane riflescope also means you can always use those hash marks on the reticle for any elevation holdover or windage no matter what magnification you are on. This can be great if you don’t have time to dial in your turret in a hunting situation and you need to use the hashmarks.

As I stated earlier, the first focal plane riflescope was new to me a few years ago. And since the switch, I don’t know if I’ll ever go back.

The only downside I see is when you’re at super low magnification the reticle is almost too small to see, especially if you’re in thick timber or hunting in low light. I really notice this on my Razor HD Gen II 4.5-27×56 riflescope that is in a first focal plane setup when I go down to 4.5 power. To deal with this, if you’re hunting in a state that allows an illuminated reticle to hunt with, the illumination could allow you to make use of low power in the thick timber on a first focal plane setup. But for the most part, I don’t see this as a hindrance at all since 95% of the time I’m not hunting in thick timber at lower power. But it’s just something you should think about if you’re going to purchase a new riflescope.

Possibly one other downside is if you’re trying to shoot at a very small target in practice at a longer distance because your reticle may block the target due to it getting larger at max power. I’ve seen this happen when I’ve been practicing out in the desert while aiming at something really small and and trying to be very precise.

One of the biggest benefits of a first focal plane riflescope is if you need to quickly make a shot and need to use the elevation or windage lines in the scope, this is when a first focal plane riflescope will shine. For the most part, since I’m a hunter first and not a competition precision rifle shooter, these situations are a little rare for a hunter to need to quickly use elevation holdover marks, but it’s nice to have that feature if you’re ever in this situation on the buck of a lifetime.

Cost is another consideration. Usually, a first focal plane riflescope is a little more expensive than a second focal plane riflescope.

What is a second focal plane (SFP) riflescope?

Second focal plane riflescope is what everyone is most likely used to in hunting. The biggest thing you’ll notice on a second focal plane riflescope is the reticle stays the same size, and the target grows as you increase the magnification. This is due to the reticle being located behind the magnifying lens.

A second focal plane riflescope seems to be nicer to aim through because you have a finer aiming point due to the reticle staying small as you hit full magnification which is great when practicing long-range shots as your reticle isn’t covering up the spot you are trying to aim at.

The one main downside of a second focal plane riflescope is when dealing with adjusting the magnification to anything other than max power and using the reticle for any holdover or windage when taking a shot. If your second focal plane riflescope is set for max power, that means that the holdover lines in the reticle are only dialed in at that one magnification and will not be at the correct yardages if you drop to a lower magnification. So if you drop to a lower magnification and use the holdover lines, it won’t be to scale and you’ll miss the target. So to fix this, if you want to use any of the hashmarks, you must remember that it is only truly calibrated at max magnification.

Keep in mind… that no matter what, in a second focal plane riflescope you can always dial your turrets and use the center of the reticle no matter the magnification you are on. This change in impact discussed above is when using any of the hashmarks outside of the center of the reticle when you are on anything but max power.

This is why whenever I’m hunting, I’ll always shoot at an animal at the highest magnification. Second focal plane riflescopes have worked wonders for a ton of hunters throughout the years. Again, remember that dialing up on the turret on a second focal plane riflescope works perfectly if you just aim at the center dot of the reticle no matter what magnification you are on.

In summary, if you use a second focal plane scope and you want to use the holdover hashmarks, know it will be only valid for one magnification.

If I’m going to need to use the windage or elevation marks in my riflescope, 99.99% of the time I’m going to be at full magnification which means everything will be accurate in a second focal plane setup.

The way I’d explain my reasoning for a second focal plane scope for a lot of years is this; pretty much any shot over 300 yards I’m going to be at full magnification. So at that point, it really doesn’t matter what riflescope plane I’m using since I will be at full magnification and would be able to use the hashmarks on a second focal plane if needed, and I would also have the same benefits of a first focal.

Below is a quick series of graphics to help showcase some of the differences side by side at low magnification and high magnification.

5x magnification

25x magnification

Once again, on the first focal plane riflescope on the 25x power example, you’ll notice that the reticle grows as the image gets bigger due to adding magnification and it does so at the same rate. And on the second focal plane image, the reticle stays the same size as you increase the magnification.

In closing

One last thing I should mention, if you have a riflescope with turrets in either first or second focal plane, it does not matter what magnification you are if you aim using the center of the reticle. You will still make an impact with the correct distance dialed in the turret. You could be at low magnification on a second focal plane riflescope and dial in for a shot with the turret and make an impact. Then you could dial in for a longer shot using the turret and crank the magnification all the way up and still impact the target aiming at the center.

So what do I prefer after using both?

At this point after using both for a long time now in hunting and practice, I’m still leaning toward first focal plane riflescopes. My dad, who also is very into rifles and long range shooting for practice and hunting, doesn’t like second focal plane scopes at all anymore either. Then if you’d ask my brother who I shoot with a ton… he prefers second focal plane on his hunting setup.

So at the end of the day, both focal planes will absolutely work wonders for hunting, it just comes down to what your eyes might prefer and your use case.

If you have the ability, find a friend who has a different scope than you do and really look at a first focal plane and second focal plane side by side. This is going to be the easiest way to determine what style you prefer.

Don’t forget, if you ever have any questions about anything optics, you can reach out to our Optics Manager Cody Nelson. He is a wealth of knowledge and a person you should take advantage of when deciding what optics to purchase. Cody can be reached at [email protected] or call him at (702) 847-8747 | Ext. 2.

Check out all the riflescope options we carry here

Turkey hunting is one of the more challenging sports in the hunting world. Many states have a turkey harvest success rate generally in the 30% range. If only 30% of hunters are successful, many of them would take whatever advantage they could get. So the question follows, can you turkey hunt with a rifle? The answer can be complicated and is different for nearly every state. However, where it is legal, turkey hunting with a rifle can help you reach out and bag gobblers that are just a little too stubborn to come within shotgun or bow range. After all, if there was a possibility for you to use a better tool to harvest turkeys in your state and help you become a better and more successful hunter, wouldn’t you want to know about it?

So can you turkey hunt with a rifle? In short, probably not. Only 12 states allow the use of rifles (not including muzzle-loaders) in one way or another during turkey season. After some extensive research, I made atable of all 50 states that contains the answer to whether or not a particular state allows turkey hunting with a rifle and linked to the section of their DNR explaining their exact rules.

You can check the table here: Rifle Turkey Hunting With a Rifle Table

As I said before, one way or another it is possible to hunt turkey with a rifle in 12 states. I say this because out of those 12 states, none of them have the exact same rules. Some of them only allow rifles (or only air rifles) to be used during a specific season, out of a possible three seasons. So, if you do live in one of the states that will allow it, make sure you read the regulations and call your local Department of Natural Resources just to make sure.

Why You Would Want to Use a Rifle

If you have turkey hunted for a few years, you have surely been in a situation where a nice tom was just a dozen yards out of range and you had to let them pass. Turkeys seem to have a knack for escaping hunters and constantly give us trouble. If you could use a rifle, you could shoot turkeys at well over 100 yards if you wanted to. Which increases that 30% success rate significantly.

Now the next question is, is hunting turkeys with a rifle ethical or not? Personally, I feel like if a state votes to include small caliber rifles as a legal method of take, then they want more turkeys to be harvested. Giving hunters that option is ultimately going to help them harvest more turkeys, thus helping the state to keep wild turkey numbers under control. Plus, if harvesting other animals such as squirrle with a rifle is ethical, why would it not be the same for turkeys?.

What Types of Rifles Are Allowed

To continue about the argument of whether it is ethical to harvest a turkey with a rifle, obviously, you would not want to hunt turkey with a 50 BMG. Large calibers would be unethical and honestly would not leave much of the turkey left. There has to be a limit somewhere so that the turkey is still intact and edible.

This is why most of the states that do allow you to hunt turkey with a rifle, only allow small calibers such as a .22 long rifle, .22 magnum, or a .223 at the largest. Many of them only allow air rifles to be used and the largest caliber I saw listed for those was .30. It does not take a high caliber to put down a turkey if you have good shot placement.

With a rifle, you want to aim for the neck or the head. This can be a difficult shot at long ranges so it is also effective to shoot turkeys in the lungs/liver and the heart. Although headshots will make for the quickest kill.

What We Normally Use to Harvest Turkey

When we normally think about turkey hunting, or watch turkey hunting, they are hunted with a shotgun. Using a shotgun may sound like it would make it easier to turkey hunt. However, the challenge comes when you need to get a turkey within shotgun range. With a normal rifle, it is not too difficult to make a 100-yard shot, but with a shotgun, you are doing good if you make a 40-yard shot.

This is why it is important to use the correct choke on your shotgun. Chokes help you reach out and maximize your guns range and shape your pattern. It is also important for shotgun hunters to pattern their shotguns so they know what range they can effectively shoot at. These are steps that serious turkey hunters always do, but many amateurs simply ignore, leading to lower success rates.

Another way to harvest a turkey is by using a bow or crossbow. If using a shotgun was not difficult enough, bow hunting turkeys is the real challenge. Turkeys have incredible vision and they can pick up the slightest movement. So when you have to pull your bow back 20 yards in front of a turkey, it would be very difficult to remain unseen. Although it is difficult, it is not impossible and hunters do it every year. If you are looking for a true turkey hunting challenge, try harvesting one with a bow.

Lastly, many states allow you to hunt with muzzle-loaders. Some allow muzzle-loading rifles and most are muzzle-loading shotguns. So this just adds an extra challenge to the shotgun dynamic. You get one shot and a giant cloud of smoke.

Conclusion

So if you are in or are close to one of the 12 states that do allow you to hunt turkeys with a rifle, why not give it a try this season? If you have had trouble in the past getting turkeys in range, this is your ticket. Now if you see a turkey, most likely you can shoot it with a rifle. Although you will still have to locate turkeys and use your calling skills, which is also quite the challenge. Hopefully, you can take the information from this article and up your arsenal for this coming season and become a better hunter.

Thank you for reading my article about turkey hunting with a rifle. I hope you enjoyed it and learned something you didn’t already know. If you like my content, subscribe to my weekly update. If you have any other questions about turkey hunting with a rifle or just want to connect, feel free to email me at [email protected].