We can’t think of a better form of social distancing than spending time farming for wildlife. A goal for all GamKeepers and hunters is having a healthy deer herd. Spring and summer are critical months in a whitetail’s life; bucks are rebuilding their bodies from a rigorous winter and starting the amazing antler genesis process. Does have the task of eating for two or three as most of them are carrying fawns to be born later in summer. Consistent, protein-rich food sources are key to helping your deer reach their potential. Mossy Oak BioLogic has a wide variety of spring/summer plantings to fit every wildlife manager’s needs. Invest in the best warm season food plots now, and make sure to give your wildlife the nutrition they need during the critical growing months.

Wildlife Sweet Corn

BioLogic’s Wildlife Sweet Corn is a blend of 3 varieties of conventional, open-pollinated (think heirloom) corn that have over a century of proven reliability. BioLogic’s Wildlife Sweet Corn has a sugar content higher than that of new hybrids, and is generally consumed earlier in the fall/winter especially when planted in areas with surrounding agricultural corn. The higher protein and nutrient content of this “sweet” corn is a major bonus for your wildlife. These proven, open-pollinated varieties of corn are non-GMO, and are not glyphosate resistant, but can be paired with conventional corn herbicides.

When to Plant Wildlife Sweet Corn

Wildlife Sweet Corn needs 90-100 days of warm growing to reach maturity and maximum yield. Plant late April to early June for the South, early May to early June for the North.

How to Plant Wildlife Sweet Corn

Corn should be planted at 1.5-2 inches soil depth. Planters and no-till drills are ideal for planting if available. Corn can also be broadcast planted into a well prepared seed bed. Corn seed should be covered to the suggested depth by using a drag harrow or by lightly disking in. Ideally the field can also then be cultipacked or rolled for increased seedling survival. As a bonus, this sweet corn is awesome to take home a few ears and feed your family with!

Clover Plus

Few plants are more effective at attracting whitetail and turkey than clover. BioLogic’s Clover Plus is a perennial blend of our New Zealand Red and White clovers and extremely successful varieties of chicory. Developed specifically for a whitetails stomach, Clover Plus produces larger, more succulent leaves and thinner stems for higher nutritional value and improved digestibility. Both clover and chicory are extremely hardy and drought-resistant, yielding consistent production through the hot months of summer. It’s a combination of high nutrition, great attraction and consistent growth that deer can’t resist.

When to Plant Clover Plus

In the south, plant Clover Plus in early fall, as soon as soil moisture is sufficient for seed germination. Spring planting isn’t recommended; frequent summer drought conditions could limit root growth. In the north, plant Clover Plus in the spring when soil temperature is 50 degrees or higher and soil moisture is sufficient. Fall planting isn’t recommended; frost may occur before root systems are established. This blend can also be frost-seeded in the spring.

How to Plant Clover Plus

Clover Plus is best planted by spreading on a well-prepared seedbed at 9 pounds per acre, then using a cultipacker or light drag to cover the seed. Grasses can be controlled in Clover Plus using a grass specific herbicide such as clethodim.

Spring Protein Peas

BioLogic Spring Protein Pea is an annual warm season planting that is designed to provide maximum nutrition for your deer herd through the critical growing months. Protein Peas is a very drought and browse tolerant planting that grows in a wide variety of soil types and is great for hot climates. In areas of high deer density, Protein Peas may need protection with BioLogic’s P2 Plot Protector so plants can get established.

When to Plant Spring Protein Peas

Spring Protein Peas can be planted anytime in the spring or summer months. For maximum forage output, plant in spring 2-3 weeks after the last frost for your region when soil temperatures reach 55-60 degrees.

How to Plant Spring Protein Peas

Spring Protein Peas can be broadcast onto a well prepared seed bed and covered to 1 inch of soil depth. Seeds left on the soil surface may have poor germination and be eaten by pests. Without a current soil test to go by, fertilize with 200-300 pounds per acre of 0-20-20 or a comparable low or no nitrogen fertilizer. This blend can also be planted with a no-till drill or similar planters, use the setting for small peas at 30-35 pounds per acre. Set planting depth to 1 inch. Spring Protein Peas can be sprayed with grass specific herbicides to kill any grass competition in the plot.

WhistleBack

This same principal of proper timing and planning applies for other plantings for doves, ducks, pheasants, etc. Planting areas specifically for birds is beneficial for a property not just from a hunting standpoint. Often times these plantings are used in strips or transition zones adjacent to food plots for deer. The step down effect from timber to grassy seed producing plants to lower growing green groceries creates diversity and makes for awesome wildlife habitat including a lot of small mammals, song birds, and insects. BioLogic’s WhistleBack is a warm season blend of sorghum, millets, and sunflowers. This mix is designed to produce massive amounts of seed, and at the same time offer cover for many species of upland birds. This blend contains varieties that all grow and mature at different heights, offering food to birds as small as quail and doves on up to pheasants or turkeys.

When to Plant WhistleBack

Ideally plant late spring and early summer. The plants in WhistleBack are designed to grow and mature by the end of the summer. The seeds will shatter and naturally distribute on the ground, being consumed by birds in the fall and winter.

How to Plant WhistleBack

Sorghums, millets, and sunflowers all require the same basic planting depth and ground preparation should be as follows. No-till drills work great for these seeds, and most drills have a setting for planting all of these seed producing plants. If using traditional planting methods, I would suggest spraying the area to be planted a week to ten days ahead of planting with a non-selective herbicide, such as glyphosate, to kill all existing vegetation. Ground to be planted can then be disked or tilled and then cultipacked or rolled to create a firm seed bed. Seed can then be broadcast and dragged in with a chain harrow or cultipacked again. Ideal planting depth is about 1 inch. Obviously, seed left on the surface of the soil is easy picking for all types of birds and insects.

Turkey Gold Chufa

Another very popular planting for turkey and waterfowl is chufa. BioLogic Turkey Gold Chufa is without a doubt the most attractive planting for turkeys. Chufa needs to be planted in the late spring/early summer when there is at least 90+ days of growing season left before any threat of frost would arrive. This gives the chufa time to establish, build a root structure and begin to develop the tubers that turkey are so crazy about. Chufa is also pretty easy to manage weeds in since it is in the sedge family of plants. This allows you to use a grass specific herbicide to kill any invasive grasses or a broadleaf herbicide such as 2,4D. As the chufa matures in the early fall it can begin to provide food all the way into the next spring and ideally keeping your turkeys at home right up till the season.

When to Plant Chufa

Planting times for BioLogic Chufa are late April to early June for the South, early May to early June for the North.

How to Plant Chufa

Chufa should be planted at 1.5-2 inches soil depth. Planters and no-till drills are ideal for planting if available. Chufa can also be broadcast planted into a well-prepared seed bed. Chufa seed should be covered to the suggested depth by using a drag harrow or by lightly disking in. Ideally the field can also then be cultipacked or rolled for increased seedling survival.

Shane Smith

Anyone who has pursued early-season teal has certainly had their share of misses at a flock of fast-flying aerial acrobatic teal. You fire off three rounds and can’t believe you missed all three times! You start taking inventory of the boxes of shells you brought, hoping you have brought enough. I would like to lay out five helpful yet disciplined tips to put into use to consistently kill more teal per box of shells.

Teal Hunting Is Fast and Furious

In the world of waterfowl hunting, blue-winged teal are one of the most acrobatic of all waterfowl. As the season goes on, their acrobatics only seems to improve. Even seasoned duck hunters are left in awe at the aerial display. There are ways to improve your odds this duck season. This brings us to our first tip to put more teal on the table.

1. Smooth is fast. This is a saying we use all the time in tactical applications and is very true for wing shooting as well. Make a smooth and deliberate mount of your shotgun and move your barrel smoothly through the bird to its head and pull the trigger. Try not to play catch-up with the bird and stay behind with the hopes of snatching rapidly ahead and making a miracle shot. Keep it smooth and follow through and you will be shocked at how many more teal you will kill.

It’s opening day, your decoys are set and everything seems perfect. Experienced teal hunters know that even with everything just right, timing is everything. From Texas to Missouri and from Louisiana to Mississippi, all duck hunters know that a little teamwork goes a long way. Timing and teamwork bring us to point number two. 2. Stand ’um up. On many, many occasions, people let teal get waaay too close before they shoot. I like to try and shoot my first shot at 20-30 yards or so and teal will usually stand straight up like a skyscraper and present you much easier shots. If you wait to shoot when they are 10 yards or so, your pattern is very tight and not very forgiving. Have someone shoot first and stand up the flock and then start picking them off one at a time.

You can improve the odds of taking blue-winged teal, green-winged teal and cinnamon teal before duck season begins. Improve your odds by knowing your shotgun and how it patterns. Knowing your shotgun, its pattern at different ranges and its performance with different ammo simply cannot be taken for granted. This brings us to tip number three.

3. Change your choke/load combination. Blue/Green wing teal are the smallest dabbling ducks in the country and require much less terminal velocity to bring them down than a mallard. This is a good time for 4s, 5s or 6s to reign supreme. If you shoot an aftermarket choke tube like a Patternmaster or JEBs, take out your full or modified and opt for a “decoy” or short-range tube. Most of your shots will be less than 35 yards, and you will have a dense and gap-free pattern with a good wad stripping choke rather than a constriction-style choke.

All duck hunters have been there — it’s opening day and you sit freezing in a duck blind before the sun comes up. You’re shooting the breeze with the other hunters in the blind and sipping coffee. All at once, the sun is up and suddenly you have more blue-winged teal than you ever dreamed of bearing down on you. What do you do next? That brings us to tip number four.

4. Keep your head down and focus. It is very easy to want to look at the whole show when 50 bluewings are twisting and dive-bombing the dekes at daylight. However, this will usually lead to three spent hulls and your retriever looking at you with disgust. Pick a single bird and kill him FIRST. Don’t worry about the others that are zig-zagging like they are possessed by a devil. When your cheek meets your stock, keep it there and maintain that focus and I guarantee you will kill more birds.

If teamwork is a key factor to bagging more teal, then you don’t want to be the weak link in the duck blind. Being organized from opening day, knowing your gear, where your gear is in the blind and how to get to it quickly is key. It is common for young duck hunters to have teal buzz through and only manage one shot. That brings us to tip number five.

5. Keep other shells handy. Teal are notorious for flying the first 30-45 minutes of legal shooting time and then almost disappearing. As soon as you are done shooting, IMMEDIATELY reload. I have certainly been guilty of looking and seeing more birds approaching and raising up only to hear a “click” and realize I never reloaded my gun. Try and keep the shells in a wader pouch, bench or somewhere that is very easy and convenient to reach. I will often attempt to put shells in a loaded gun to make sure I am ready for the next bunch that falls into the blocks. Just as fast as the action can start, it can certainly end, so be sitting on go with a reloaded weapon.

This Teal Season Can Be Different

No one wants to be a weak link. The duck hunter who can only manage a few shots despite the fact that the teal were plentiful and conditions perfect. Thinking back to the last teal season, you vowed to shoot more teal. That’s why you took the time to read these tips. Try and apply these tips this year when teal season rolls around and you don’t have to be a weak link. I know some of this may seem like common sense and other parts may be new to you, but give them a shot and see if they don’t help you this teal season. Maybe this year, you can be the hunter who tagged out.

While a Western or open-country hunter wouldn’t be caught in the field without binoculars, that’s not the case everywhere. But are hunters who aren’t carrying binoculars missing something—even if their normal distances aren’t that great?

I often find myself asking that question while turkey hunting when a bird flies down in the first few minutes of legal shooting time, and I wish I had the added light-gathering power of binoculars. Or, it happens when I am sitting in a blind and a turkey appears 200 yards or more away. I also want more magnification then.

*This article was written without bias. Affiliate links were placed in this article after completion by the writer. If you liked this article and plan to buy one of these products – please support us by clicking the Amazon link on the product when purchasing. Thank you.

The idea of binoculars when turkey hunting doesn’t always fit in, though, since binoculars aren’t always lightweight to carry. Compact binoculars can fill that gap, however.

Testing Five Sets

I put five popular compact binoculars through two different testing protocols and looked at their overall product features.

To understand the comparisons between the products, it’s necessary to look at the inner workings of binoculars. The main types are porro prism and roof prism binoculars. It’s easy to tell which is which by looking at the construction. Porro prism is the original binocular design, with the objective lenses offset from the eyepieces. Roof prism binoculars have the objective lens in line with the eyepiece. The optical difference is the prism inside.

The other important distinction with binoculars is the size of the objective lens. Compact binoculars have objective lenses less than 32 millimeters in size. The larger the lens, generally the more light that gets let through. However, glass quality, coatings and prism quality also play a role.

To the Test

I tested the binoculars using a USAF 1951 1X target. These targets are often used with a formula to calculate the resolution of an imaging system. I printed these targets out on letter-sized paper and looked at the four rows of lines and numbers. My test was to try to read the numbers in the different systems. They were shown as -2, -1, 1, and 0. I tested them at 50, 100, and 200 yards.

All the binoculars in the main test were 10-power. To be fair, putting a 25-mm objective lens against a 32-mm objective lens is not a test of equals, but there were some surprising results. Smaller objective lenses aren’t expected to be as bright as larger objectives.

The secondary test was looking at a stop sign from a mile away, looking to see if I could read the letters at that distance.

Both tests were done on an overcast day. I figured this better simulated the twilight conditions when wildlife is most active.

Results

Best Under $50

Bushnell 10×25 H2O Waterproof – ($37.99 at Amazon)

American optics company Bushnell gained a reputation for providing quality optics at a reasonable price. The company has really revamped its optic line to increase quality.

These lightweight binoculars have a non-slip grip and are waterproof to three feet for 30 minutes (IPX-7 waterproof). The folding roof prism design makes for one of the smallest of the binoculars I tested. They were also the lightest and are of aluminum construction. The lens caps aren’t attached.

In the USAF 1951 test, these binoculars could clearly read the -2 line at both 50 and 100 yards. The -1 numbers were legible, but barely. These binoculars were the darkest of those tested and had less contrast. The letters on the stop sign weren’t quite legible.

With their small size and waterproof construction, I thought these binoculars would be ideal for waterfowl hunting. I don’t normally take binoculars duck hunting, but handling these, I saw them as fitting that niche. They are tough but not expensive, since that can be a tough test on optics.

Price: $37.99 USD

Prism: Roof

Weight: 10.7 ounces

Length: 4.1 inches

Twist-up eyecups for those that wear glasses

Bushnell Prime 10 x 28 ($122.00 on Amazon)

These binoculars have Bushnell’s EXO Barrier to repel water and dirt. They are waterproof to three feet (IPX 7 waterproof) for 30 minutes. The objective lens caps are fastened on the body and eyepiece caps will fasten to the strap. The body has a rubber coating with a non-slip grip.

The -2 numbers on the USAF test were visible at both 50 and 100 yards, with the -1 visible at 100 yards. In the stop sign test, the letters could be read. These binoculars were the third brightest of those tested. These binoculars are a great value for the money.

Price: $122 USD

Prism: Roof

Weight: 14.2 ounces

Length: 4.7 inches

Twist-up eyecups for glasses wearers

Best Overall

German Precision Optical (GPO) Passion ED 8 x 42 – ($469.99 at Amazon)

GPO is a company led by former major optic companies that had a vision to offer top- quality products at a more reasonable price.

The Passion ED binoculars boast an incredible 99.7% light transmission through each optical surface, for a combined total light transmission of 92%. These were the only binoculars tested with ED glass.

The magnesium body has a two-part coating and a more intense grip on the portions where the hands fall. The lens caps are not attached to the body of the binoculars. These binoculars are waterproof, but there was no depth or rating given.

These were the brightest binoculars tested with the most contrast. In the optical testing, the -2 and -1 numbers could be easily read at 50 yards. The -1 could be read at 50 yards and the -1 was on the edge of legibility at 100 yards. Stop sign letters were an easy read at a mile.

Price: $469 USD

Prism: Roof

Weight: 3.8 pounds

Length: 3.7 inches

Twist-up eyecups for glasses wearers

Leupold BX-1 Rogue Waterproof 10 x 25 ($80.99 at Amazon)

Leupold is the established source for North American optics, with more than a century’s experience in producing quality products.

The BX-1 Rogue features scratch- and smudge-proof lenses with Leupold’s legendary light transmission. The body is armor-coated and these binoculars were tested for waterproofness to 33 feet. The lens caps are not attached to the body. Although these were the second smallest physically, the ergonomic shape makes them seem smaller. The BX-1 rated fourth in brightness.

In testing, it was possible to read the -2 numbers at 50 and 100 yards and the -1 at 50. The stop sign could just be read at a mile.

Price: $81 USD

Prism: Inverted porro

Weight: 12.7 ounces

Length: 4.3 inches

No twist-up eyecups for glasses wearers

Best Value

Vortex Diamondback 10 x 28 ($169.99 on Amazon)

Vortex has a growing reputation for its high-quality optic products. The Diamondback 10 x 28 didn’t disappoint.

Sporting HD glass, the Diamondbacks have a rubber-coated body for a better grip. They also have grooves in the body to further enhance grip. There was no mention of the waterproof level of these in the company’s material. There are flip-down lens covers attached to the body. These were the second brightest of the binoculars tested.

The resolution of the HD glass paid dividends. It was possible to read the -2 and -1 numbers at both 50 and 100 yards. These were the clearest in that regard. It was no problem reading the letters on the stop sign at a mile.

Price: $169 USD

Prism: Roof

Weight: 13.3 ounces

Length: 4.6 inches

Twist-up eyecups for glasses wearers

Notes on Magnification

I also tested to see how much power was needed to read the 0 at 50 yards with the variable power on my most powerful optic, a Bushnell Forge spotting scope with 15-45 power. To read the 0, I needed 30 power.

Both Vortex and Bushnell provided 8-power samples for testing. The lesser power gives a better field of view. It was possible to read the -2 numbers at 50 and 100 yards. It was tougher to read the -1 than with 10 power but it was legible.

Overall Winner

Since brightness is somewhat of a subjective measure, my wife Karen accompanied me to confirm my results. Her pick for best overall binoculars were the GPO Passions. I was impressed with these, but I gave top marks to the Vortex Diamondbacks. Although they weren’t as bright, I preferred the clarity and flip-down lens caps.

The testing process was an eye-opener for me, showing me the value of compact binoculars. They will fit in the pocket of any hunting coat or are light enough to hang around your neck and be at the ready. With compact binoculars, there is really no excuse to leave your binoculars at home.

Read More: “A Game of Hide & Seek: 8 Tips for Spotting & Stalking Mule Deer”

Hungry deer can wreak havoc on any garden. They can stomp, chew, poop, and destroy all those precious herbs you worked so hard to prepare. If you live near a forest or large stretches of land, you either have to invest in quality fencing or plant herbs that deer will avoid. It seems like deer will eat just about anything, but there are some plants that they don’t mess with.

Generally, deer avoid most herbs that have a strong flavor, aromatic foliage, silvery-gray color, and/or spiky or poorly textured leaves. This includes rosemary, lavender, thyme, sage, oregano, and tarragon. The essential oils of herbs throw off the olfactory system of the deer and send them looking for other food sources.

However, contrary to popular belief, not all herbs are deer resistant. Deer will sometimes munch on basil and parsley if they don’t have any other green leaves available. Let’s take a deeper look at some of the top herbs that deer will avoid!

Lavender

Thanks to its powerful aroma, lavender is a naturally deer-resistant plant. Even when it isn’t flowering, the foliage of lavender has a pungent smell that deer do not like.

Deer don’t usually eat lavender due to a terpene called linalool that makes the lavender taste too strong for their liking. This essential oil is also found in many of the Mediterranean herbs below, including oregano and thyme.

Plant lavender along the margins of your vegetable garden as a companion plant. The camphorous smell of the leaves and the floral aroma of the blooms can help deter deer (and other pests) from eating your crops while simultaneously attracting beneficial insects.

Rosemary

Another drought-tolerant Mediterranean favorite, rosemary is repulsive to deer. The potent aroma of rosemary can help mask the smell of other plants they may be seeking, like your freshly-sown lettuce or fruiting tomatoes. Deer also dislike rubbing against the rosemary plant because of the essential oils that can rub off on their fur.

Like lavender, you can plant rosemary around the perimeter of your garden as a “deer shield.” It also works great when placed near the entry gates to your property or anywhere you suspect deer are regularly passing through.

Sage

Sage plants are among the most popular deer-resistant ornamentals because they offer a diversity of floral colors along the margin of a woodland. This popular herb is actually part of the Salvia genus, which includes hundreds of varieties.

From white sage to Russian sage to blue sage, all of these shrubs produce beautiful booms and aromatic leaves that repel deer. As a bonus, the leaves have a wooly or fuzzy leaf texture that hungry deer do not want in their mouths.

Oregano

Oregano contains two strong essential oils called carvacrol and thymol. When the fragrance of this herb hits a deer’s nose, it often sends them off in the other direction. Like rosemary, deer really hate rubbing up against oregano or stepping on it.

Thanks to its insect-repellent properties, oregano also makes an excellent vegetable companion plant. It doesn’t mind partial shade and can be interspersed in a drought-tolerant garden alongside the Mediterranean herbs described above.

Thyme

Thyme is an extremely low-maintenance herb that thrives in poor soils without much fertility or water. As an herbaceous perennial deer barrier, thyme’s fragrant leaves are not appetizing to deer. When blooming, the strong smell of the flowers can also repel deer.

Use creeping thyme as a ground cover around your garden beds and it may prevent deer from walking in.

Lemon Balm

Known for its delicious tea-making capacity, lemon balm is not quite so tasty to deer. The animals have an aversion to the fragrant leaves and flowers of this herb.

Lemon balm is a perfect low-growing border plant to keep deer out of your garden. However, it can be slightly invasive in some regions, so plant wisely.

Mint

You will notice that all of the above herbs belong to the mint family (Lamiaceae). Mint and its relatives are the backbone of a deer-resistant herb garden.

Peppermint, spearmint, pennyroyal, ginger mint, and any other variety of mint can easily be added to the blend to add olfactory shock value to your local deer noses.

Grow mint in great abundance around the borders of your garden, but avoid planting it in your garden beds. Mint is a natural spreader that can out-compete your vegetables. However, it makes great ground cover in moist, partially shaded soils along a forest or grassland border.

Chives

The evergreen, herbal, and floral fragrances of mint-family herbs aren’t the only smells that deter deer. Chives are a perennial onion-family (Amaryllidaceae or “alliums”) herb that turns away deer as well as aphids and Japanese beetles.

Because of the strong taste and onion-y smell of chives, you can reliably plant them out in the open. They make a delicious garnish for meals and a low-maintenance, cold-tolerant ornamental.

Be sure to plant perennial chives, not annual green onions. Both are deer-resistant, but the perennial chives will grow as a clump that comes back year after year.

Dill

Any gardener who loves pickles needs to have a self-seeding dill patch. This resilient herb is smelly and strong tasting, which makes it yet another deer-deterrent.

Sometimes known as dill weed, both blue-green foliage and yellow umbel flowers of dill have a distinctive fragrance. The plant can naturally spread into small patches and remains biennial in zones 2-8.

You can grow dill in your annual garden beds or alongside perennial herbs. While you repel deer, you also get yummy pickle flavoring!

Horseradish

Deer avoid horseradish at all costs. The spicy aroma of this perennial Brassica keeps most pests away. The large bushes look like weedy dock plants but smell strongly of mustards. Deer avoid the foliage as well as the spicy roots.

Tarragon

Whether it’s Mexican or French tarragon, this herb has a distinctive anise smell that deer strongly dislike. They tend to avoid eating or stepping on the plant.

These 18-36” bushes can be grown as perennials in zones 4 and warmer. The licorice flavor is surprisingly delicious as a garnish on chicken, fish, or vegetables. Thankfully, deer don’t find it nearly as appetizing as we do.

If you have pets, keep in mind that tarragon oils can be toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. Most animals avoid the plant anyways.

Editors’ review

The Bowtech General was added to the Bowtech 2008 lineup. With an ATA just over 31″, an 8 1/4″ brace height, and a 315 fps IBO, this rig was quiet and was a premier hunting bow. Because of limb problems, Bowtech issued a voluntary recall on all the bows and replaced the limbs, and discontinued making the bow. The General is still one of the best bows ever designed by Bowtech. This bow is slower than todays speed bows, but should be a consideration if the shooter is looking to make a purchase. Since the limbs have been replaced, the only reason not to purchase this rig is because you feel you have to have the newest bow on the market.

Finish

This rig was designed with the Realtree Hardwood Green In-Velvet coating. Archers order this rig in Realtree APG HD, Advantage MAX-4, Mossy Oak Obsession, Mossy Oak Treestand, or Mossy Oak Brush. This finish is still used today and provides a rubber-like feel and enhances the vibration dampening properties of the bow.

Risers/Limb

This rig came with a fully machined forged riser providing strength and stability. The riser also has a short pivoting leg at each end which provides the center point for the pivoting limb. This “leg” provides some movement along the limb to aid in maximum bend for shooting stability. The limbs for this bow are a 12″ center pivoting split-limb system that are machined out of a unidirectional fiberglass. This particular material is known for its strength and durability, making it perfect for bow limbs. There is virtually no limb pockets. The limbs are secured to the riser and use a pivot point where the riser supports the limb at a midway point. This provides additional limb stability and allows the limb to bend more from the midpoint out to the cam. This design helps the bow generate more power while dissipating the shock throughout the rest of the bow. This bow also used Vertical Force Technology, which was introduced in 2002 and basically meant parallel limbs. It was not long before other bow manufacturer realized that Bowtech was onto something revolutionary. The General was only one of the Bowtech rigs that boasted this technology.

Other Components

This bow came with BCY 452X strings, a Short Stop integrated string stop, roller guard cable guard, center pivot limb pockets, and a hush kit. As this rig is no longer in the Bowtech lineup, if the archer is looking to purchase one, it will be used. This means that it will most likely have a host of add-on components.

Eccentric System

This rig used the Center Track Binary Cam System. This cam system generated the speed produced by the General. This cam system not only provided excellent speed for 2008, but also was able to provide that speed without creating any bow torque. The General boasted an IBO of 315 fps. A test bow, straight out of the box, setup for 70# draw weight, 29″ draw length, and shooting a 360 grain arrow chrono’d at 285 fps. Although not right on IBO, but very close. Draw length can be adjusted by changing the draw modules. The modules will allow for adjustments in 1/2″ increments. When changing the draw length of the General, it is necessary to adjust the draw stop as well. Adjusting the stop post will allow for additional draw length adjustments in 1/16″ increments. It is also very important that the shooter not try to adjust the draw stop while at full draw.

Draw Cycle/Shootability

Pretty smooth draw throughout the cycle to a solid back wall. At full draw, there is no bow creep. However, if the shooter must let off the shot, they should use caution. The shooter will have only about two inches of movement toward letdown, and then the bow will pull with a lot of force and accidental release is a real possibility. It is very difficult to hold on to.The draw weight of this rig is based on the peak weight of the limbs, and adjustability of up to 10# from there. The limbs come in weights of 50#, 60#, and 70#. Any adjustment from there is done simply by loosening the limb bolts. The archer must be careful not to loosen the limb bolts too much. This rig was a very shootable, quiet, and accurate bow, but limb problems caused Bowtech to voluntarily recall the bow to repair the issues. Bowtech eventually discontinued this rig. If an archer can find a General on the used market, they should be wary and have the bow checked out prior to purchase to ensure the repairs have been completed. Any authorized Bowtech Dealer can perform this inspection.

Silencing Package

This rig is quiet out of the box. The slightly heavier riser, the In-Velvet finish, the string stop, and the hush kit make this bow very quiet. Even when shooting a light arrow (at or near IBO) there is almost no noise from this bow.

Comparisons

The Bowtech General can be compared to the Bowtech 101st Airborne. Even with the limb problems the General had before the recall, it was still one of the best overall bows ever designed by the guys at Bowtech. The 101st, although a good bow in its own rights, was never a flagship quality rig. The 101st is an overall bigger bow with five more inches ATA. The brace height of the 101st is slightly shorter at 7 3/16″ instead of the 8 1/4″ of the General. The 101st also offers an additional 20 fps than the General, but does not compare when it comes to quietness, smoothness, and accuracy. Since neither of these bows are in the current Bowtech lineup, they both must be purchased used. Because of this, the shooter can definitely find either one of these bows in a price range that they are comfortable paying. The limb issues encountered by the General have been corrected, but the purchaser would be advised to have it checked out to be sure. Although this issue has been corrected, the General still carries the stigma of limb problems that some just can’t get over.

Usage Scenarios

This rig was designed specifically as a hunting rig. It will fit well on a target course or a 3D range, but make no mistake, it is a hunting bow. When originally designed, the designers at Bowtech were looking for a rig that was fast, quiet, and smooth. They found this in the General, and it was their flagship bow in 2008. With an IBO of 315 fps, this rig is fast enough, and is quiet enough to fit any hunting situation.

Value

When this bow first hit the market, it sold for around $849. They can be found used today for as low as $250. Although this rig was involved in a voluntary recall by Bowtech, the limb problems that caused the recall should have been fixed. If you can find a Bowtech General and the limbs have been replaced, this rig is a very good bow to purchase. There still are very few bows that are as quiet as this bow, although there are quite a few that are faster.

Summary

The guys at Bowtech were looking to create a rig for the hunter that was fast, quiet, and smooth. They eventually came up with the General. This bow not only met the call, but did so with no vibration or noise. With an ATA of just over 31″ and a brace height of 8 1/4″, this bow is accurate, fast, and consistent. The Center Track Binary Cam system provides a smooth draw and an IBO of 315. This is about 15 fps slower than the average bow today, but in 2008, it was respectableThis rig is adjustable as well with a draw length range of 26″ – 30″ in 1/2″ increments, and a draw weight range of 40# – 70#. The limbs are the primary determinate for the draw weight with the weight being adjustable to 10# below peak weight of the limbs. This rig was added to the 2008 lineup, but shortly into the year Bowtech voluntarily recalled the bow as it had received 255 work orders for defective limbs. Although they recalled all the bows and replaced the limbs, the damage had been done and they discontinued the bow. The shooter can still find them for sale online. The limb issues should have been corrected, making this a very good bow to have in your arsenal. The shooter would be advised to have the bow inspected by an authorized Bowtech dealer prior to purchasing the bow just to make sure it didn’t slip through the cracks when the recall took place.

Welcome to our best work boots for standing and working on concrete floors review for 2022 (updated for 2024).

To bring you this article we’ve researched 68 websites looked at 22 work boots brands and models, read 100s of reviews and customer feedback for a total amount of 41 hours.

We’ve done all of this in order to bring you the best information about working on concrete surfaces and the best boots and features to look out for when shopping in this sector.

Alright, let’s go into it…

Compare these 10 comfortable concrete work boots

Here’s a quick comparison table if you’re curious about which work boots we’ve included in our round-up.

Reviews of the best concrete work boots for walking and standing all day

Alright, let’s jump into some detailed reviews of each one of these concrete work boots we’ve included in today’s round-up.

We’ll start with the one that our editor picked for you …

1. Thorogood Wedge Sole

These are the best work boots for people who want a short, six-inch pair of work boots for walking on concrete.

These boots are also made in the USA, so if supporting American jobs and families is important to you, then this is the pair of American-made work boots in this roundup.

They also feature a wedge sole. Wedge sole work boots are work boots that have a larger surface area at the bottom than heel or arch boots.

The advantage of this when working on concrete is that far more of the work boot is in contact with the ground at any one point while you are walking around.

This reduces the potential shock to your feet when you are walking around. This makes it our #1 choice for walking around on concrete, as well as the best US-made work boot.

If you are a fan of this brand then why not go and check out this great Thorogood work boots reviews round up article where you’ll find a lot more models similar to this one!?

2. Wolverine Overpass

Wolverine has been in the work boot business for decades, and they have over 200 products in their range.

So for us to say this is the best Wolverine product for concrete work in their extensive range is quite the compliment.

Weighing just 1.75 pounds per boot, your feet will feel much lighter in these boots than other brands, preventing you from exhausting yourself on the concrete surfaces.

Don’t think the lightweight means these boots are less safe. The boots meet all the requisite safety standards that you would expect from other boots in the sector.

And for working on concrete, this work boot contains an Ortholite cushioned footbed which delivers a combination of temperature regulation and comfort.

Perfect for absorbing shocks when you are working on concrete.

Plus, the flexible, athletic Contour Welt construction moves with you by bending and flexing at essential points, preventing the build-up of long-term pains and sprains.

And the slip-resistant soles also mean you won’t have to worry too much about falling over whilst on the worksite, even if you’re working in an environment with a lot of oil or slippery liquids.

So no need to worry about falling on that hard concrete floor. Check out this page if you’re still wondering if Wolverine work boots are any good. We went deep into researching this brand!

• Read My Full Review Of The Wolverine Overpass Work Boots

3. Ariat Rebar Flex

The ARIAT Men’s Rebar Flex 6″ H2o is the best composite toe work boot if you are in the construction trade and you need to work on concrete

This work boot features superb lightweight flexibility and supportive cushioning, with a 4LR footbed that keeps your feet cushioned and cool.

This makes them an ideal choice for outdoor construction workers worried about sweaty feet giving them a condition such as an athlete’s foot.

Made from waterproof leather combined with rugged mesh panels, these boots are highly durable and will protect your feet from the elements in harsh weather conditions, always assuring dry comfort.

So they are perfect for outdoor construction workers who work long days on concrete.

4. Skechers

The synthetic sole in these Skechers work boots makes it the ideal work boot for providing your feet with support and comfort whilst working on hard concrete surfaces.

And what’s even better is they are made from 100% leather, allowing your feet to breathe easily with those soft leather uppers.

People who have bought these boots have been delighted by how the memory foam insoles keep your feet ventilated with every step, allowing them to keep cool during every step.

Here’s a wider selection of great work boots to keep your feet dry and ventilated on summer days.

5. Heritage Classic

Red Wing is an excellent manufacturer of workboots who make all of their products in the USA and also run an in-house repair shop.

This means you can send your boots to them for repair for less than the cost of buying a new one, saving money, supporting cobblers, and preventing materials waste.

So if avoiding waste, shopping sustainably, and supporting American families is important to you, then Red Wing boots are the ones to buy.

The durability of the Red Wing work boots is great for most jobs that require you to stand or walk on concrete surfaces a lot.

Working on concrete does lead to work boots deteriorating more quickly- since the hard surface causes the boots to absorb a lot of shocks.

But people who bought this work boot have been delighted with how long it lasts.

Plus, for comfort, the full-grain leather that the upper boot is made from wicks away water, keeping your feet dry in treacherous conditions.

Nonetheless, the breathable membranes wick away internal moisture, keeping the inside of your boots cool and dry on a hot summer day.

6. Danner Bull Run

Danner has an extensive range of hundreds of products, from work boots to hiking and much much more.

However the Bull Run 6” work boot is the best of the best from within their range.

The boot contains a wedge sole, ensuring your weight is evenly distributed across your feet when you are working on concrete floors- reducing the risks of knee, feet, and ankle pains.

And the uppers are also made from durable, oiled full-grain upper leather for maximum comfort and durability.

Finally, it features a steel shank. This will minimize your risk of injury on the job by protecting your feet from punctures and giving them adequate support as you walk around.

Find out here if Danner’s work boots are worth the money and other cool details about the brand.

Also, we’ve put together a list of some of the best soft toe work boots here (in case you want to see what other alternatives to this Danner work boot model you can find out there)

Anyway, here’s some good and bad things about this boot…

7. Irish Setter

If you want to look like John Wayne on the worksite, the Irish Setter work boots are the most comfortable western work boots for concrete.

The heat-resistant outsole will keep your feet cool even as the concrete becomes baked in the hot outdoor sun.

It also possesses heat and electric resistant outsole that can withstand external temperatures of 475 degrees Fahrenheit and 18,000-volt shocks respectively.

Further, the 12-inch shaft measuring from the arch gives you the maximal support you need to take on the working day.

Finally, it features groundbreaking RPM technology, a breakthrough material that significantly reduces the weight of the boot, without compromising on the essential features of a work boot that keep you safe.

Want more models? Check out our top 10 best pull on work boots that you can compare with this Irish Setter boot…

8. Timberland PRO

The best pair of leather work boots from Timberland for concrete workers that we have to recommend for you is the Timberland PRO Drivetrain work boot.

These boots are simply amazing, from tough toe materials to breathability, it has it all.

This boot uses the toughest material there is, TPU, for the toe overlay, complimenting the composite toe cap for a lightweight but still very protective experience.

The outsole of the boot also uses polyurethane, which is a variant of TPU, one of the tougher materials companies are using to toughen up the soles of their boots.

The Timberland Pro Drivetrain contains an antimicrobial moisture-wicking lining, that prevents odors from lingering in the boot, keeping the feet of the users nice and fresh. It is an extremely breathable design.

And users simply love the fact that it barely weighs anything, with so many of them comparing wearing these boots to wearing basketball or tennis shoes.

The lightweight makes it ideal for walking on concrete, reducing the pressure on your feet and knees as you are walking around.

9. Merrell Men’s Moab 2

The Merrell Men’s Moab 2 Mid Waterproof Hiking Boot is the right boot for the job if you are working in hot weather.

It contains lightweight, breathable mesh uppers with abrasion-resistant synthetic overlays. These breathable mesh uppers provide increased ventilation and comfort.

It also features an abrasion-resistant synthetic overlay that helps protect your work boots against the wear and tear of a modern worksite.

As well as keeping your feet cool in hot weather, these work boots are also waterproof, and so they are ideal for outdoor workers in rainy cities.

Another awesome aspect of this product is the contoured footbeds that cradle your feet to keep them comfortable all day long.

The Merrell air cushion in the heel absorbs shock while providing stability on uneven terrain.

10. Carhartt

If you’re working on cold concrete surfaces, then this work boot is ideal for you.

Carhartt boots are specially designed for you to work in hard winter conditions. They pride themselves on the highest standards of design and componentry to ensure that you’re able to do your work safely no matter the conditions in comfort and style.

Safety for Carhartt is a top priority. Their composite (non-metallic) toe cap will protect you from dropped objects of up to 125 joules (or the equivalent of 22.7kg dropped from 56cm).

Their toe protection also extends to electrical shocks, offering protection against incidental shocks of up to 18,000 joules under dry conditions.

This makes these boots suitable for electricians and engineers as well as bricklayers and other construction professionals.

But it’s not just your toes that the Carhartt Men’s 10″ Waterproof Insulated PAC Composite Toe Boot is designed to keep you safe.

The TPU heel guard with Achilles flex joint will offer support to your arched feet, allowing you to work confidently without needing to worry about collapsed arches and other forms of long-term feet condition that might develop.

And the insulative LiteFire membrane keeps your feet dry and protects them from extreme weather conditions like rain or snow whilst also promoting airflow.

So your feet will remain warm and dry, avoiding both frostbite and athlete’s foot.

Overall, we strongly recommend that if you are working on concrete during periods of extreme cold, you invest in this pair of boots.

You will feel warm, dry, comfortable, and safe no matter the weather if you have these work boots on. Here’s our best winter work boots page in case you want to see more models for the cold season.

This section of the article will tell you about the dangers for workers on working on concrete for lengthy periods of time, as well as what features to look out for in a pair of work boots for a comfortable, pain-free experience.

The dangers of working on concrete floors for long hours

Working on concrete for long hours can be very dangerous. Concrete is a tough, unforgiving surface that will cause pain and discomfort if you are not careful when working it.

This is why we’re going to look at some of the dangers of working on concrete for too long.

1. Trips and Falls

One of the worst things about working on concrete for long hours is the risk of falling down and hurting yourself.

Concrete, unlike grass or carpeted floors, is unforgiving.

This means a fall onto concrete from any height can result in serious injury or death.

This is particularly dangerous for professionals in construction; who according to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration face twice as many deaths per capita as any other private sector occupation.

But even for workers in warehouses or other professions not involving high altitudes, slipping onto the surface can be a painful experience.

2. Feet Pain

Plantar Fasciitis is a condition that leads to pain at the point where your heel bone connects with the arch.

It can come as a result of working too much on concrete surfaces as they are inflexible, leading to unnatural pronation. Discover here if work boots can cause you plantar fasciitis.

3. Knee pain

Without rest, the knee joints can become excessively strained as a result of being over-worked

This can lead to the knees feeling stuck or tight.

In extreme instances, this can even lead to osteoarthritis.

4. Back pain

Working on concrete for long hours can lead to permanent spinal damage.

This is because concrete is a hard material, and when you’re constantly using your back muscles to work on it, it can become strained or overworked.

As a result, the discs between your vertebrae start to bulge out from their normal position due to the pressure put on them- causing lower back pain.

What you could do to avoid health problems whilst standing or walking on concrete for long hours

Walking and standing on concrete for a long period of time is, unfortunately just a fact of life for many workers, whether on construction sites, in warehouses, or people delivering the post.

There are three main things you can do to avoid health problems from this

Firstly, before starting work and during break times, it is worth doing some stretching exercises with your feet, such as ankle rolls, calf stretches, and touching your toes. This will keep your feet and legs flexible and supple for the long day of work ahead.

Losing weight can also be helpful. This will reduce the load on your knees and feet when you are standing or walking all day.

Finally, buying supportive work boots with features that will ease the strain on your feet and knees is the best thing you can do to avoid health problems. These features will be mentioned just below…

Features to look for in a good work boot for standing all day on concrete

If you’re a worker who spends long periods of time on concrete work surfaces, then buying a good pair of work boots is essential for preventing pains and long-term conditions.

This section of the buyer’s guide will inform you as to what to look out for in a work boot for standing all day on concrete, as well as some additional products you can purchase.

1. Comfort

Comfort is absolutely crucial when you are purchasing work boots and additional products. There are things you should look out for when it comes to comfort, both in the work boot and as an additional product.

2. Shock absorbing footbeds

Shock-absorbing footbeds or ‘insoles’ are great additional products.

They will provide your feet with cushioning and support, and also prevent unhealthy pronation (how feet roll to absorb shock when walking).

One particularly effective product is Dr. Scholl’s Massaging Gel Insoles, which are clinically proven to relieve pain by workers.

They provide excellent cushioning, so it’s almost like you are walking on pillows.

3. Cushioned midsoles

As well as inserts, a good midsole is crucial to having a comfortable work boot.

The midsole is the bit of the work boot between the outsole on the bottom and the upper.

Making sure the midsole is well-cushioned will allow for ample shock absorption, flex support and will support good pronation.

4. Slip resistant outsoles

Hopefully, the concrete work surface you are working on is even, however, there may occasionally be spills, or if you are working outdoors and it starts to rain, then you can slip and seriously hurt yourself.

To prevent this, the outsole, the part of the shoe that comes into direct contact with the ground, needs to be made from a non-slip material.

Soft rubber will be able to grab hold of a slippery concrete surface whereas boots with a harder, stiffer outsole would not be able to.

5. Wedge soles

People often find wedge sole work boots, of which there are a couple in this roundup, most comfortable for working on concrete surfaces.

By spreading the surface area in contact with the ground more broadly, and having a wider area in play, distributes the force of the impact more than a typical boot sole.

So workers in construction, factories, warehouses, or garages find wedge soles more comfortable than boots with an arch.

6. Material

Leather is the best material for working on concrete as it is resistant to water and dust, making it ideal for concrete workers who work in construction or development.

Leather boots in general have a good combination of grip, stability, comfort, and durability, making them ideal for workers on concrete surfaces.

7. Brand

The benefit of a good brand of work boots is that they signify trust and innovation.

These brands will invest millions into research and development so as to make more effective products.

You can also find out more information more easily than for small independent manufacturers, such as the manufacturing process and how other customers found wearing the work boots.

Brands are often able to give great deals on warranties and returns owing to the volume of trade that they do.

The downside to brands is they may cost more. (But you’ll look more fashionable :D) Also, make sure these brands really do have the cutting-edge features they promise before paying out the extra $$.

Benefits of wearing a good work boot whilst working on concrete floors

The benefits of a good pair of work boots for people who work or move on concrete surfaces are comfort, the prevention of developing feet pains, and good support/ traction for the avoidance of more serious injuries.

Concrete Work Boots Q&A

Have questions about buying work boots for concrete you are too afraid to ask your supervisor?

Have no fear, this section of the article will address some of the most common queries users have had about concrete, comfort, and work boots.

Do all work boots for concrete have steel toe?

No, many of the work boots in this roundup have a soft toe or a synthetic toe.

What is the most durable work boot outsole for concrete?

For concrete surfaces, dense molded rubber is the most durable outsole material available.

A nice thick rubber will absorb the shock from walking on concrete to a much greater extent than other materials.

And it will also last longer due to the dense rubber being more durable than synthetic outsoles.

Why do your Feet hurt after Walking on Concrete?

The lack of flexibility of concrete floors, compared to say grass or carpets, creates muscle wear as a result of the shock being felt in the bones. Across the tendons, these shocks will result in pains, aches, and sores.

Your ankle also can feel pain as the ankle is a collection of bones. Think of it like shaking pebbles together in a rigid plastic bag.

Since many shoes encourage us to walk with our heels, this can exacerbate the problem.

Final Verdict On The Best Work Boots For Concrete

In our opinion, the best work boots for concrete are the Thorogood Maxwear.

This work boot contains the best in supportive technology, pain reduction, and cushioning.

Ensuring you can get a good day’s work done without having to worry about long-term feet pain, or tripping and falling over on the concrete.

Those are common dangers of working on concrete, and if you are spending long hours on the hard surface, you need to make sure that you are protecting yourself with a high-quality pair of work boots.

Wedge soles are good, but high-quality tread can also make all the difference.

As can a good internal cushion in the work boot, a steel shank, and a breathable leather design.

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When it comes to creating spinner rigs suitable for walleye fishing, the factory-tied versions on the market leave me cold much of the time. For better than 30 years I’ve taken pride in tying my own walleye spinners using premium hooks, lines, clevices and blades.

The time spent making my own fishing rigs is enjoyable, but even better it’s a satisfying feeling reeling in a fish I caught on one of my own creations. My son Jake and I often tie spinners together while we’re watching a ball game. My wife Mari even jumps into the act to make sure we color-coordinate things as she sees fit!

A spinner rig can be drifted, cast or trolled. This presentation starts heating up in the spring when the water gets in the upper 40-degree range and remains good all summer long.

Getting started tying your own spinner rigs starts by identifying the proper components. Most tackle shops and mail order houses sell spinner components including blades, beads, leader material, clevices and hooks. An investment of about $50 will set an angler up for producing as many quality spinner rigs. That’s a considerable saving over purchasing the factory-tied versions which start at about $2 each and range up to $5 or more!

Leader Material

Walleye spinner rigs can be tied on a variety of leader materials. An ordinary monofilament line is an acceptable and affordable option. Select a hard-surfaced line that has excellent abrasion resistance. Both Maxima Ultra Green and Chameleon are examples of monofilaments that are tough enough to make great spinner rigs.

Fluorocarbon is also popular as leader material for spinner fishing because this line type is nearly invisible in the water. Fluorocarbon also has great abrasion resistance qualities and it holds knots well.

A few anglers use fused lines to tie spinner harnesses. The biggest problem with fused lines is they are soft and tangle easily. Should one of these rigs get tangled, there is little chance of salvaging the rig.

Depending on the size of fish targeted leader material suitable for walleye fishing ranges from 10- to 15-pound test. Both fluorocarbon and monofilament can be purchased in leader wheels, saving money and making sure the line used for tying spinner rigs is fresh and in good shape.

Beadsmail-order

Tackle shops sell beads designed for tying rigs, but I prefer to buy my beads at a craft shop. Craft shops have a wider variety of beads and bead types and many more colour options than routinely stocked at a tackle shop. Also, beads at a craft shop cost about one-quarter of the price of the same ones sold at tackle stores!

Clevices

A clevice is the device that holds the blade on the leader allowing the blade to rotate. Some clevices are made from stamped metal, others folded metal and still, others are formed from plastic. Metal clevices allow the blade to spin with the least amount of resistance and are superior for slow trolling and drifting applications.

Plastic clevices are often configured to allow the blade to be removed without having to cut and re-tie the leader. This handy feature allows anglers to experiment with blade size, shape and color quickly. The leader in this category is a company called Quick Change Clevices and they are widely distributed at tackle shops everywhere.

Plastic clevices come in two sizes, one for smaller blades and a second model for larger blades. Matching up the right size clevice to the proper blade is important to get good performance from these products.

Hooks

For walleye harnesses, I favor a short shank-style hook known as a “beak” hook. Similar in shape to an “egg” hook, but with a little longer shank, a No. 4 beak hook is a good all-around choice. When targeting bigger walleye a larger No. 2 beak hook is the best option.

Ordinary bronze hooks are the standard for walleye spinner rigs, but red anodized hooks are gaining in popularity. Many anglers feel that red hooks help to attract fish.

Blades

The most popular blade type for walleye spinner fishing is hands down the Colorado blade. Colorado blades spin at slow speeds and give off a lot of flash and vibration. Sizes 2 and 3 are ideal for structure fishing applications and when fishing inland lakes. Larger No. 4 and 5 blades work better for targeting larger walleye or when fishing impoundments and the Great Lakes that produce bigger average-sized fish.

A good second option is Indiana-style blades that are a little more oblong in shape. It takes a little more speed to get an Indiana blade spinning, but these blades work well in most walleye fishing situations for drifting and slow trolling.

These days blades suitable for walleye spinner rigs come in every color and finish imaginable. When buying blades purchase them in groups of 4 to 6 blades per color. That way if a particular color starts producing you’ll have other blades of the same color to share.

The Knot

The best knot for tying walleye spinner rigs is known as the egg loop and anglers can quickly learn to tie this knot at a web page called www.animatedknots.com. The benefit of the egg loop knot is the hook can be placed precisely on the leader allowing the angler to space two or three hooks at exactly the desired distance from one another. Other snell knots allow the hook to slide when the knot is tightened, making it tough to create uniform rigs.

Summing It Up

Tying spinner rigs is a lot of fun and these rigs are deadly when fishing walleye on bottom bouncer sinkers, slip sinker rigs, three-way swivel rigs or when trolling in open water using divers like the popular Off Shore Tackle Tadpole Diver.

Once tied I like to store my spinner rigs in small plastic bags or wrap them up on a short chunk of foam made for insulating water pipes. One length of foam can be cut into about a dozen short leader wheels ideal for storing walleye spinner rigs.

If tying your own spinner rigs isn’t an option, some of the best factory-tied rigs are produced by Yakima Bait, Northland Tackle, Lindy Little Joe and Bait Rigs Tackle

Most people would not find a plate of fried larvae appealing.

However, there are many ethnicities across the world who consume insects on a regular basis.

These groups of people will tell you that edible insects are extraordinarily flavourful and delicious.

There’s also a current trend in the US where people are switching to edible grubs as a protein source since they are energy-packed and nutrient-rich.

They are also easy to grow or find and relatively straightforward to prepare.

If you’re one of the many, who wish to make a conscious effort towards sustainable methods of living and are wondering what do grubs taste like, keep reading to find out.

What are Grubs?

Grubs are the larvae of beetles.

These white worm-like creatures are often mistaken for worms, but they are actually the larval stages of several species of beetles, like the scarab or June beetles.

If you find it hard to identify these creatures, you can look at their color; most larvae are white or off-white.

Their legs and appendages are located near the head, and they can grow up to ¼ or more than an inch long.

The larvae have a C-shaped body that is wrinkled and soft to the touch.

Many of these baby beetles are considered pests that destroy the natural vegetation grown around homes.

These insects are found buried in the ground.

They feed on the roots of plants until they mature into a pupa.

Many insects are eaten worldwide, and grubs are just one variety of bugs considered edible.

Although, once the pupae have completed the chrysalis stage, most adult beetles cannot be consumed.

What Do Grubs Taste Like?

Grubs are a very non-conventional ingredient to have in your pantry, and many might not be aware that such a product is available for consumption.

So, what does it taste like? Well, many have compared it to chicken or even beef.

Some have even said the grubs have fruity flavors.

These creatures are soft and pack a whole lot of flavor in their tiny bodies.

Most people will agree that the larvae taste like soft, tender beef bone marrow.

Some have said the taste resembles bacon when roasted over an open flame.

The bugs can be cooked in many ways and with various ingredients.

Depending on the cooking method, you can improve the flavor of the larvae immensely.

Some communities that consume bugs regularly are known to eat the grub raw.

If you’re bold enough to try them fresh and uncooked, be prepared for a bit of bitterness.

However, that does not last because most grubs have a nutty aftertaste with a cheesy texture.

Not only are they delicious, but grubs are also known to be highly nutritional.

They come packed with protein and all sorts of minerally goodness.

They are rich in Vitamin C, healthy fats, iron, zinc, phosphorus, etc.

Nowadays, many people, even in the west, have accepted these little critters as part of their diet.

Once you get over the fact that they are considered ‘pests,’ you’ll be surprised by how delicious they can be and how easy it is to prepare them.

Can You Eat Grubs?

Before trying anything new, you’re bound to ask, is it good? Or what does it taste like? You may even be asking whether you can eat it.

The latter may be an appropriate question to ask when it comes to this particular food group.

The answer is a resounding yes.

You can undoubtedly consume grubs.

These pasty white creatures are part of a larger group of insects that are considered edible.

If you’re reading this article, you’re most likely venturing into new, unusual culinary territories.

Bugs are definitely a different gastronomic experience.

They aren’t that appealing to look at, but they have intense flavors that will whet your taste buds.

There are places where these small umami-filled edibles are a common item at a dinner table and are enjoyed by the entire family.

Grubs can be cooked and served in several different ways, and people all over the world will claim that their method is the best.

Nonetheless, deep frying, steaming, and roasting are the most popular ways to prepare insects.

So, the next time you come across a plate of creepy crawlies, why not give them a taste?

Conclusion

A lot of research and study is going towards finding alternative protein sources for a sustainable lifestyle.

Grubs, mealworms, and maggots have all been deemed worthy of being served as a dinner menu item.

They are nutritious, filling, and high in calories.

Even though the idea of having worms on your table may be offbeat, you might actually enjoy eating them.

Here’s your sign to go and try out some grubs for your next meal; you will not be disappointed.

Entomophagy might be the change you need to shake up the monotony of life.

About The Author

The sleeping habits of a deer are probably some of the most interesting out of all the large land mammals. How deer sleep is so different from what we are used to as humans, that it makes them a very interesting topic to look into.

This overview covers a wide range of facts about how deer sleep, why they do it that way, and how it helps them survive in the wild. Let’s get right into it!

1. Some Deer Sleep Standing Up

Although it is not very common, some deer have been observed sleeping while standing up. The upright position is rare, because most adult deer sleep on their side with their heads up. Young fawns will lie down curled up, with their nose tucked under their legs.

Most individuals will not stand up because they lose muscle control while sleeping, just like humans do.

However, just like humans have the ability to sleep-walk, so can some deer! The main reason the animals might do this is to be extra alert about potential dangers in their immediate surroundings.

2. Deer Can Sleep With Their Eyes Open

Because a prey species like deer need to be on high alert at all times, it is not uncommon for deer to sleep with their eyes open. The animals fall into a daydream-like state for several seconds to minutes, lowering brain activity. The state is similar to what would be considered a sleep state.

Much like sleeping while standing up, sleeping with eyes open is an incidental occurrence for most deer. You might have even seen it while encountering them in the wild, without realizing it!

While bedding down, the animals are more likely to close their eyes for brief periods of time. Keeping their heads up and their other senses sharp, they never lose their ability to sense a potential predator nearby.

3. They Sleep In Super Short Intervals

Humans need about 8 hours of sleep every night to feel well-rested. Deer do it in a completely different way: the animals take incredibly short power naps and stay on high alert at all times.

How long deer sleep depends on how safe they feel bedding down. Most deer sleep 4.5 hours during the day, but will do so in extremely short intervals of about 30 seconds to 3 minutes at a time. During their sleep hours, deer will reach deeper REM sleep for about 30 minutes in total.

It is not uncommon for the animals to switch locations many times in a single sleep session. The short intervals wake them up often, but this is needed to keep them safe. Their resting brain is hard-wired for taking power naps, so to speak.

4. If Deer Sleep In Your Yard, They Feel Safe

Have you ever been blessed with the presence of some deer in your backyard? Then you have been chosen. If a deer shows up to take a nap on your property, it feels safe enough to be around you. They don’t see you as a threat and know they will not be harmed by you.

However cute Bambi might seem from a distance, be mindful of the fact that you’re still dealing with a wild animal. You should never feed wild deer for any reason, their survival should not depend on human feeding.

Especially in summer, fawns might end up in your yard to hide from potential predators. They are curled up and usually stay quiet in a hiding position, which makes a fawn relatively difficult to spot.

5. Returning To Sleep In The Same Spot

When deer have found a relatively safe bedding area, they are inclined to return to sleep in the same spot repeatedly. While the animals are known to change locations often (even during a single sleeping session), they will come back to a few good bedding locations to sleep in.

In order for a bedding area to feel safe enough to return to multiple times, the animals will have a few requirements for the perfect ‘sleeping spot’:

• Sufficient cover so potential predators cannot easily spot them
• Open view of a large area in order to spot any potential dangers
• The ability to hide from the rain or other weather elements
• Soft natural bedding like tall grass or a pile of leaves

6. Fawns Sleep With An Extreme Heartrate

Much like human babies, a newborn fawn is a natural-born sleeper. Compared to adult deer, a young fawn will sleep a lot more, about 95% of the time they are bedded. But don’t think the young animals are relaxed while doing this.

During their extensive bedding time, a fawn has an incredibly high heart rate of around 175 beats per minute. The senses of a baby deer are on high alert and shift immediately when potential danger is detected, dropping their heart rate to an average of only 60 beats per minute.

When the extremely high heart rate drops, the body of a hiding fawn is much more difficult to detect by potential predators. The animals breathe less, tuck their head into their legs, and pull their ears back to become as small and undetectable as possible.

7. Deer Don’t Usually Sleep At Night

People commonly think that deer are most active at night, but that’s not true. Deer are not considered nocturnal, but are instead crepuscular species, meaning they are most active during the twilight hours of the day (dawn and dusk).

While it is true that deer don’t often sleep at night, they are most active during the hours around sunrise and sunset.

The main benefit of being a crepuscular animal is decreasing the odds of getting preyed upon. During twilight hours (dawn and dusk), it is much harder for nocturnal and diurnal predators to track prey. This gives deer and other crepuscular wildlife the edge needed to survive as a species.

8. Winter Hibernation Is Not For Deer

While most deer species do lower their activity in the coldest months, the animals never go into hibernation. It is true that deer will hunker down for multiple days or weeks on end to avoid the cold, but they don’t fatten up enough before winter to survive going into full hibernation mode.

Mule deer, moose, elk, and reindeer are more inclined to be active during the winter months than other species, such as white-tailed deer. These species have adapted to colder climates and will remain active for the majority of autumn, winter, and spring.

It is safe to conclude that hibernation is not for deer, but that doesn’t mean they enjoy being in the cold. Hunkering down and bedding longer is their preferred solution to the cold!

9. Bucks In Rut Rarely Ever Sleep

During the rutting season, bucks change everything about their normal behavioral patterns. A buck will generally not sleep or eat during the height of rutting season. Mals will be too focused on finding a mating partner and driving out competitors.

Only after the buck found a suitable female and has successfully mated, he will take some to snooze and find food.

However, he will spend most of his time defending his territory and female from other interested males that are roaming the area. There will be very little time for a quick nap if you want to have children as a buck!

10. Sleeping Beside The Road Is Common

There is a reason why deer-vehicle collisions are such a common occurrence, especially when the colder months are approaching. An elevated road gives a sense of protection and will be a source of warmth for the animals.

The false feeling of safety the road might provide (the asphalt retaining the heat after the sun has set is the main culprit) motivates deer to stick around and take some rest longer than necessary.

If you find a doe or buck near the side of the road, you might want to consider shooing the animal away when it is safe to do so. Alert oncoming traffic before you do so, because you want to avoid the animals panicking and running into cars.

11. Like All Mammals, Deer Are Able To Dream

Even though a deer won’t stay in the dream state very long due to their short-interval sleeping patterns, a deer is able to dream. Deer get about 30 minutes of REM sleep per day, which is the deeper sleep phase in which dreams are produced.

What deer dreams are made of, we can only guess. Probably about food, other members of their herd, or maybe even about running away from that predator.

Maybe it’s true that when deer dream, they visit us when we are in that dream state ourselves. After all, humans assign a lot of value to deer appearing in their dreams…