Deer hunting is perhaps one of the most American hunting activities, and with the increasing popularity of suppressors, it’s only natural that people will ask if they can hunt deer with suppressors. The answer is by and large a resounding yes! 40 of 50 US states allow hunting deer (and other game) with suppressors, meaning that most anyone who wants to can with a suppressor.

Can You Hunt Deer with a Suppressor?

You can totally hunt deer with a suppressor, and there are a lot of good reasons to! We’ll show you the states that allow hunting with suppressors in a minute, but the good news is that it is quite likely that you can hunt with a suppressor in your state.

If you have a hunting rifle with a suppressor or want to put a suppressor on your hunting rifle, you’ll find a lot of benefits, and precious few, if any, drawbacks. Well, other than the bother of getting an NFA registered device, but that’s not such a big deal in the grand scheme of things.

Anyway, since most places are states that allow hunting with a suppressor, let’s look at the advantages that come with suppressed hunting.

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Benefits of Hunting Suppressed

From the very beginning in 1909, suppressors have been actively marketed to hunters and for good reason – they make hunting safer and quieter, eliminate the need for bulky hearing protection, and improve accuracy when shooting.

Here are just a few of the reasons why suppressed hunting is better hunting:

• Make the outdoors quiet again. The thundering roar of a gunshot spooks game, trains animals to expect hunters and disturbs private landowners and other people sharing the same hunting space. Suppressors, when paired with the right ammo, reduce the sound of a gunshot to hearing safe levels, and “dull the edge” of the sound of a gunshot.
• Hunting deer with a suppressor is safer. While in recent years electronic ear muffs that allow you to hear ambient noise while blocking the sound of gunfire have hit the market, the simple fact is most hunters still choose between no ear protection or wearing something that makes it hard to hear what is going on around them.
• Using a suppressor on your hunting rifle allows you to hear everything that is going on around you, and not damage your hearing when taking a shot.
• Accuracy is proven to be improved when shooting with a suppressor. This benefit has also been touted since the early 20th century. This is because the physics of a silencer reduce felt recoil and muzzle climb. With both of these factors greatly reduced, shooters find their rifles easier to shoot.

So it isn’t that silencers make the gun more accurate per se, but they make it easier for YOU to shoot your gun more accurately.

There are a lot of other little things that make hunting deer with a suppressor nice, too. Your shots are less likely to spook other game in case you miss, you are fully aware of your surroundings, you have less gear to carry on your person, you never have to worry about quickly getting hearing protection in before taking a shot, and of course, reducing noise pollution is simply the responsible, polite thing to do.

Do Suppressors Impact Accuracy?

We already touched on this a bit, but we can look a little deeper into how suppressors impact accuracy.

It is a law of physics that for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Gun owners understand this as recoil. Recoil is moderated through various means, like through heavy guns or dense stocks that help absorb and distribute some of the energetic forces from firing a round. Felt recoil can also be reduced with various shock absorbing materials like rubber buffer pads or even various spring loaded or similar shock absorbers built into the stock.

Semi automatic rifles have some natural recoil reduction built into their operation, as the recoil springs that cycle the action absorb huge amounts of energy that would normally be felt by your shoulder.

Muzzle brakes (while rarely seen on manually operated hunting rifles) are another proven way to reduce felt recoil, as they redirect muzzle gas in such a way as to weaken the recoil impulse.

All these common mechanical ways to reduce or redistribute recoil energy add up to easier shooting. And we all know an easier shooting gun can be more accurately shot. Consider the difference between shooting a .22 rimfire and a punishing .300 Winchester Magnum. While skilled shooters can do well with either gun, I think we can all agree the .22 is a lot easier to shoot accurately.

Suppressors take the recoil reducing ability of a muzzle brake and turn that power up to 11. Because suppressors contain muzzle gas for so long in order to reduce sound, they also double as an insanely effective muzzle brake. Which means less felt recoil, and, you guessed it… the ability to shoot your rifle easier.

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States that Allow Suppressors for Hunting

There are presently 42 states that allow ownership of suppressors, and 40 of them permit hunting with suppressors. As you can see, that includes some of the best deer hunting country in the nation. Sadly, some highly populated states like California and New York don’t allow hunting with suppressors, but most Americans are in luck!

If your state isn’t on this list, consider connecting with local gun rights advocacy groups and pressing your elected officials to embrace firearms and hunting safety by allowing the use of suppressors when hunting.

Getting Your Hunting Rifle Barrel Threaded

Many common hunting rifles do not have barrels threaded for a suppressor. There are many reasons for this, most of which boil down to cost. Suppressors are an optional accessory that often cost more than the gun they are being mounted on. This means there is little reason to thread every barrel that comes out of a factory.

And for whatever reason, hunters rarely embrace muzzle devices like flash hiders or muzzle brakes on their guns, so most hunting rifles show up without threaded barrels. The exception to this is many semiautomatic sporting rifles which usually have threaded muzzles for common muzzle brakes or flash hiders. These can be quickly fitted with suppressors. But odds are good your favorite manually operated or older semiautomatic rifle isn’t suppressor-ready.

When you consider the best-suppressed hunting rifle is often the one you own and are comfortable with, barrel threading becomes very important. You could trust your rifle to a gunsmith using hand tools or inexpensive machine tools and hope that they’ll do the job right, or you could have your barrel threaded on a state of the art CNC machine that cuts more perfect threads than are possible by any other means.

That’s why we founded Threading Central and offer an easy mail-in barrel threading program! Our state of the art machines will do a more perfect job than even most factories are capable of, and the best part is that it’s incredibly easy and affordable!

Get Your Barrel Threaded

The Best Suppressors for Hunting

The best-suppressed hunting rifle needs the best suppressor for hunting. Of course, we should consider what kind of rifle we are putting a suppressor on. As a general rule, any well-made rifle is suitable to be used as a suppressor host. The “best” suppressed hunting rifle really does become academic, because there is no one single best hunting rifle. So we’ll assume you have a good rifle and want to put one of the best suppressors for hunting on it.

We are a tad bit biased towards our famous BANISH Suppressor line, and for good reason. The all-titanium, user-serviceable and multi-caliber BANISH suppressor is truly the one that fits any gun. We designed the entire line to work with the most popular hunting and sporting rifle and handgun cartridges while offering true hearing safe performance across a range of dozens of different cartridges. No other suppressor line offers the same kind of value, performance, and functionality as the BANISH suppressor.

However, we know that people like consumer choice, and as the nation’s largest silencer dealer, we are happy to sell you whatever silencer you want.

We are also especially fond of the Advanced Armaments 762-SD. Created specifically to address the problems with suppressing .308 Winchester and 7.62 NATO ammo, it also works extremely well with .300 Blackout. And of course, there are umpteen million deer rifles in those wildly popular calibers. And at under $700, it is a real bargain.

If price is your absolute bottom line and you have a .30 caliber or smaller hunting rifle, it is hard to beat the Coastal Gun .30 Caliber LRT which will get you into the suppressed hunting rifle game for well under $600, and will work on many different .30 caliber and smaller rifles.

Get Equipped Before You Hunt

Are you ready to own a hunting rifle suppressor? That’s exactly what Silencer Central is here for.

We’ve long recognized there are distinct markets for suppressors including tactical/military/law enforcement, and the hunter. So, if you to hunt deer with a suppressor, we know a thing or three about the needs of hunters and sport shooters just like you, because you are our entire reason for existence. Our dedicated expert staff can help you select the perfect suppressor for your hunting rifle that meets your unique combination of budget, performance and end-use.

In addition, Silencer Central has offices in all 42 silencer legal states, so we know what it takes for your state. Plus, we are the only silencer dealer who can perform the entire transaction from purchase to submitting ATF paperwork, to delivering your suppressor entirely by mail!

That’s right, for the first time since the 1934, mail order silencers are again possible, and only through Silencer Central. Learn more about the process here, and see how much easier it can make things for you. We also offer a FREE NFA gun trust to all our customers that not only makes registering your suppressor easy but serves as a trust for all your NFA devices.

No matter if you are an experienced silencer owner or are just getting your first hunting rifle suppressor, we are here for you. Drop us a line or send us an email and let’s get you started with selecting the best suppressor for deer hunting (or anything else you can use a suppressor for) right now.

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Nymphing, often known as fly fishing, is unquestionably one of the most popular types of fly fishing out there.

Nymphing is the method of fishing using artificial flies that resemble young aquatic insects, larval, or other sub-aquatic life forms such as worms and crustaceans that trout find attractive. In other words, fly fishing is the process of catching a large quantity of fish in almost any water body at any time of the year.

Before the insects become adults, mayflies, caddisflies, and stoneflies spend their juvenile years underwater as nymphs. In contrast, other species of insects swim through the water, eventually being carried downstream by the river.

Why should you be concerned about these peculiar aquatic insects and their unusual life cycle? Because nymphs are a food source for trout. And if you’d like to catch trout regularly? Knowing how to fish nymph-imitated flies is critical.

A point to remember: Nymphing is also classified as fly fishing.

To begin, let’s examine why you should fish in the first place.

Why Nymphing is the Most Effective Method of Fly Fishing

While dry flies get the bulk of attention and praise from fly fishers, the reality is that trout spend most of their time eating nymphs underwater.

Nymphs are found in lakes and rivers at all times of the year and all hours of the day. And trout spend the majority of their time eating them.

That is why nymph fishing is so effective. As trout are constantly feeding on nymphs, you do not need to time your approach or wait for the perfect hatch to start catching fish. Instead, tie one or more artificial nymph flies in color and size that match the real insects present in the water and start fishing.

When and Where to Fish Nymphs?

The beautiful part is that you can find nymph almost in any water, whether it’s a swiftly-moving freestone stream, a sparkling spring creek, or maybe even a Stillwater lake or pond. This area may be home to an aquatic insect. The nymph usually remains submerged underwater whether a hatch occurs or not.

Thus, regardless of the stream or lake, wherever you are fishing, nymph flies may be used to catch fish. The first step toward success is learning about the live nymphs that trout consume to match the artificial one to the natural insect. The second critical skill is studying the water to get your bait to the correct location with the appropriate presentation to encourage the trout to bite.

We’ll discuss how to do all of this later, but the point is to locate the lake or stream where you can find trout and use nymphs to catch them. If only catching fish and taking it back home does not quench the thirst of your adventure, provides fishing-related apparel and merchandise that will fascinate every fish enthusiast.

What Equipment Do You Need?

Often in fishing, pursuing a new species or mastering a new casting method necessitates a costly visit to the fly shop to get all new equipment. Fortunately, this is not the case with nymph fishing.

Nymphing rods may get very complex. Suppose you’re serious about getting into this type of fishing, then you should consider purchasing the drift fly rods, which in their basic form is 3wt 9ft fly rod.

The revolutionary feature of this rod is the ability to add length without untying your fly line. The rod parts extend the length of the rod from 9 feet to more than 12 feet.

This method does not require a high-performance rod. Except for neatly storing lines, your fly reel will see little activity during nymphing until you hook onto a big one. The majority of fish may be captured by handed stripping.

Here is a short review of gears needed for fly fishing:

Rod: 9-foot 4,5, or 6-weight rod with a medium-to-fast action

Reel: A standard single action fly reel that will match the weight of the rod.

Line: Floating line that is weight forward

Leader: 9-foot tapered nylon leader

Tippet: 3X, 4X, 5X, and 6X spools

Pretty straightforward, isn’t it? Of course, you’ll still need some flies and a few other pieces of nymphing-specific gear, but as long as you have that fundamental rod and reel setup, you’re ready.

Modern nymphing rods, lines, and reels are incredibly well-designed for their intended use. However, if it is your first venture into fly fishing, it will be wise, to begin with, a fly rod combination capable of more than just nymphing.

With the ever-popular 9-foot 5-weight, it’s difficult to go wrong. It is enough to handle the big fish you’re likely to encounter when nymphing, and it’ll throw both conventional and indicator nymph setups effortlessly.

Unless you’re chuck-and-ducking, the only fly line you’ll need to nymph streams and rivers is a weight-forward floating line suited to your rod. If you want to try still water nymphing, a full sinking or perhaps an intermediate line will be beneficial. However, you may still catch trout in lakes with a long leader on a floating line.

Along with a well-stocked nymph box, you’ll need the following essential nymphing gear to get started: spools of tippet sizes 3X-7X, butt section or high-vis sighter material, split shot, strike indicators, nippers, and hemostats.

Techniques

While dry flies or streamers have their role, it’s challenging to match nymphs’ flexibility and year-round effectiveness. If you have learned to adjust your nymphing rigs and techniques to the changing circumstances of the day, you’ll be able to catch fish in every stream, pond, river, creek, or lake you visit at any time of year.

Now it’s time to tie everything together by discussing the fundamental nymphing components that apply to almost all rigging techniques. When choosing how to nymph on a new river, consider the following factors:

Depth Control

Because trout like to eat nymphs at the bottom of the stream, it is critical to get your bait under deep water. By incorporating the different techniques and rig adjustments discussed earlier, you may have control over the depth to which your flies sink.

When fishing in shallow or slow-moving water, conventional lightweight and indicator-less nymph setups are often sufficient to sink the fly to the bottom, as long as adequate runway is provided. As depths near 3-5 feet while current rises, rigs with the additional weight, like a Czech nymph rig or the two-fly strike indicator, start to rise.

When fishing in water more than 6 feet deep, more weight is required to bring your nymphs to the bottom. Tungsten bead-head nymphs tied to a Euro-style nymphing line with a high-vis sighter may be the key to luring fish from deep water.

Suppose circumstances deteriorate to a severe level of high swamp water with large fish in deep pools. You may need to substitute slinky weights for the split shot and catch fish chuck-and-duck style in that case.

Drift Control and Presentation

While it is essential to get your nymphs at the correct depth to attract the fish, if they are not drifting naturally, they will not lure very well (or at all). And, since natural drift is achieved by removing all drag from the nymphs, drift management is primarily a matter of line control.

Line control varies significantly across nymphing techniques. For more traditional fly casting methods, like traditional or indicator nymphing, slack must be applied continuously to ensure a drag-free drift, either via casting movements like the “tuck cast” or through frequent line mends. However, when using “tight-line” European nymphing methods, less attention is put on creating a “drag-free” drift, preferring to remain close to the flies to improve strike detection sensitivity.

Strike Detection

If your depth and drift control are reasonable, you have a better chance of getting a bite. However, unless you’re prepared and aware of what to look for, the fish will bite the hook without you knowing it.

When you’re just starting, you will find that fishing has considerable advantages using a highly visible and buoyant strike indicator. Not only will you be able to see if a fish eats your bait, but you will also know when your rig is dragging. Additionally, strike indications enable the suspension of a large amount of weight to achieve the desired depth.

To begin, fishing nymphs without a floating strike indicator requires you to rely on your senses to identify bites. By guiding your lures downstream, you can feel each bump of your rig against the bottom and the grip of a trout grabbing your fly. Additionally, when more stealth is required, whether in clear spring streams or shallow lakes, fishing with a bare leader significantly minimizes the chance of scaring away your prey.

Conclusion

With that basic setup in place, along with the methods and ideas, you’ll be well on your way to mastering nymph fishing! When you first begin, keep things simple and make an effort to appreciate every part of the nymphing experience. Catching fish is a pleasure!

About the Author

Matthew Bernhardt, a third-generation Coloradan, grew up at the forefront of the state’s fly-fishing revolution, enjoying time on the water, side by side with experienced guides and lifelong anglers.By combining his passion for fly-fishing with input from other experienced fly-fishers and guides and his fine arts degree from Colorado State University, Matthew spent five years carefully developing the Drifthook Fly Fishing System, built to help every angler catch more trout.When he’s not spending time with his wonderful family, you’ll find him out on the water catching MONSTER trout, and he anxiously looks forward to the day when his kids are old enough to join him there.

The internet is rife with myth, heresies, and conspiracy theories born out of fiction, but mercury tipped bullets do not exist. Not commercially and not legally either. Also, a mercury tipped bullet wouldn’t become the explosive projectile imagined by Frederick Forsyth in Day of the Jackal.

I highly doubt there are ballistic advantages if any, that mercury tipped bullets may have over their standard counterparts. In the instance that a mercury-tipped round is successfully fired, it would be for but one deadly purpose.

How Deadly Would Mercury Tipped Bullets Be?

Depending on the purity of the mercury you want to use, you’ll need more than 10 grams or 0.353 ounces to make it potentially lethal. To overcome splatter and in the case of over-penetration, you’ll need to up the dose so that enough mercury is absorbed into the body.

The added payload weight would significantly mess with a mercury tipped bullet’s ballistics. Depending on the amount absorbed prior to the target getting medical help, any heavy metal poisoning won’t have immediate terminal effects.

Liquid mercury targets the liver, heart, kidneys, and the central nervous system. If a victim gets doses of a chelating agent, the effects of identifiable symptoms may be reduced.

While acute poisoning by mercury tipped bullets will often lead to death, it’s from liver or kidney damage that was pre-existing.

Another possibility is that the mercury will attack the central nervous system and the brain. All I am saying is, the mercury tipped bullets gunshot wound could prove more fatal than a secondary poisoning by the heavy metal.

However, some of its compounds, like mercury fulminate are highly toxic and sensitive to friction or heat.

A bullet tipped with mercury fulminate will explode, not in a dramatic Day of the Jackal style, but fragment further nonetheless. Unlike liquid mercury where the victim is slowly poisoned to death, mercury fulminate acts soon after the gunshot.

Let’s examine the myths surrounding mercury tipped bullets and scenarios where they have been tried and tested.

Forsyth’s Weight behind the Mercury Tipped Bullets Myth

The Day of the Jackal is Frederick Forsyth’s bestselling novel based on a real-life terrorist. He describes a process where bullets are filled with mercury, enabling them to explode on impact.

The bullet tip was drilled, and a drop of mercury poured into the hole, which was then sealed. According to Forsyth, when this bullet is fired, the mercury pushes forward to augment the round’s ballistic capabilities.

This concept, designed for maximum knockdown power, was one envisioned sorely in a work of fiction, though a few individuals claim to have tried it. It capitalizes on the bullet’s momentum and the continual devastation that the mercury carries past the fragmented round.

There are many holes that I can punch into a theory involving topping off bullets with mercury, or any other ballistic substance for that matter.

The very thing intended to make the slug explode on impact can also detonate when it’s firing from the chamber with grievous ramifications for the gun and the shooter. It’s all imaginable and may sound doable, but that’s until you factor in the physics.

And then there are legal angles since there is no way you’ll be wasting precious metals like mercury at the range. Hunting is also out of the question, and shooting such a bullet in self-defense will amount to murder.

That’s all if your mercury tipped bullets can deliver it to your target.

Amalgam Attributes of Mercury with Bullet Materials

Encasing mercury on the tip of a bullet is a procedure that shouldn’t be attempted without protective gear. Mercury is a toxic metal and reacts in peculiar ways that might catch you off-guard, with dire consequences.

Like I stated earlier, making mercury tipped bullets has been attempted, albeit in controlled environments.

Kotzar’s Findings

One instance detailed by Geoff Kotzar in a Google Group’s discussion cites what happened when he used .22LR hollow points. He injected mercury into the hollow cavity and then applied epoxy to enclose it.

Kotzar left his rounds standing overnight and when he woke up the following morning, his lead slugs had turned silver-like. What he hadn’t realized is that mercury forms an amalgam or a composite with almost all metals.

This amalgam can be solid, soft, or liquid depending on the ratio of mercury. A good example of common amalgam use is in dentistry for dental fillings and in gold mining where ore is amalgamated with mercury.

Dental fillings, particularly from before composite resins were developed, used tin, copper, silver, zinc or indium. The resultant amalgams were soft and plausible during the application but hardened as the metal was added to proportions greater than the mercury ratio.

The lead hollow points .22LRs in which Geoff Kotzar encased mercury readily became amalgams, turning a silver color. He didn’t find a trace of the mercury, and the cavity only contained the receded epoxy at the bottom.

The resultant amalgam, despite the mercury present within, is a brittle and homogenous bullet that is bound to break up mid-flight instead of exploding on impact.

This round may stray way off target due to interferences in its ballistic coefficients. After the amalgamation, there is no actual mercury that will leach out of this slug, just like in dental tooth fillings.

Going by the conventional hollow point cavity could be that a coating or an actual bullet made from a non-amalgamating metal holds the solution.

A few notable metals that mercury does not form amalgams with include iron, tungsten, tantalum, and platinum.

The Mercury Fulminate Angle

An alternative to liquid mercury tipped bullets would be to fill a hollow point, or drilled cavity with mercury II fulminate.

A primary explosive, mercury fulminate is used as a percussion or blasting cap trigger for igniting other explosions. This crystalline substance is highly sensitive to shock, friction or heat, and is similar to mercury II cyanate as both are isomers.

Mercury fulminate replaced flints as trigger means for muzzleloader black powder charges back in the 1820s. Years later, the compound was incorporated into primers for pistol and self-contained rifle ammo.

Although mercury fulminates potency weakens with time, it’s non-corrosive and decomposes into the elements which constitute it.

Due to the reduced mercury forming amalgams with brass cartridges, fulminate was replaced by more effective lead styphnate, tetrazene derivatives, and lead azide.

Mercury supplies can also be unreliable, and wartime supply deficits steered munitions manufacturers to try other chemistry.

Though not like books and movies purport, filling a bullet tip with crystals of mercury fulminate would create a projectile that explodes on impact. Fulminate ignites at less than 300° Fahrenheit, exploding with a velocity of about 4,000 fps.

I am taking the liberty to assume that firing the cartridge doesn’t make the bullet explode inside your gun’s barrel.

The person who created the mercury tipped exploding bullets myth may have heard about the explosive qualities of mercury II fulminate. I do not doubt that someone has tried it and probably ended up knee-deep in a mess, perhaps even a terminal one.

The Curious Case of a Deputy Shot with Mercury Tipped Bullets

Having trolled the internet and examined several stories researching the existence of mercury tipped bullets, one stands out.

In San Antonio Texas, a sheriff’s deputy was shot nearly 30 years ago but only died last year. Bexar County deputy Leo Gomez was shot by a gang-affiliated individual on the 24th of February, 1991.

Gomez was hit seven times with mercury tipped bullets, by a gang member named Enrique Lopez. The suspect, who had been stopped and questioned by the officer, pulled out a .45 automatic pistol and fired several mercury-tipped slugs at the deputy.

Although Gomez survived the shooting, the mercury remained within his body. This led to years of health issues, and an early retirement which culminated with terminal brain cancer.

Detectives later found out that the shooter had retrieved mercury from a thermometer, pouring it down the tips of his hollow-point bullets.

According to colleagues of the late deputy Leo Gomez, he suffered a lot and for many years. He did recover from the gunshot wounds and got back to work at the sheriff’s office.

A lot of blood work was done, and he became a sort of test subject for US air force medical researchers. Leo however surprised all his doctors by living when they expected him to die, and at that, vigorously at his love of motorcycles and police work.

He retired early from the Bexar county precinct three but continued to work as a reserve deputy constable. After a motorbike crash that left him with serious injuries in 2016, Leo was diagnosed with brain cancer.

This prompted his total retirement from law enforcement in 2018. He passed away at the age of 63, on Thursday, May 2nd, 2019.

Are Exploding Rounds a Myth Too?

Although not actually in use at the time, exploding bullets were discovered over a century ago. When their destructive nature came under review, however, the 1868 St. Petersburg declaration was instituted.

This states that inflammable projectiles or explosives under 14 ounces should never be employed during wartime.

Examples of the explosive rounds in existence at the time were the 7.62mm x54R Russian machine gun cartridge. These had a phosphorous and tetryl internal charge.

Later, Pyrodex charges were added to handgun cartridges, sometimes with a mercury additive.

Due to the level of innovation and customization that’s present in the world of guns, individuals can easily obtain instructions on making bullets that explode.

One of the most infamous examples of the use of exploding rounds is President Ronald Reagan’s attempted assassination in 1981. The would-be assassin, a man named John Hinckley used Bingham Devastator rounds, slugs of which were extracted from the president and a policeman.

The .22 caliber Devastators are composed of an aluminum tip within which a lead azide center is lacquer sealed. You will not come across these rounds today, seeing as their sale was restricted following the 81 incident.

Explosive incendiaries inside small-caliber bullets tend to have inconsistent results. Mostly the explosion doesn’t happen, a fact that Reagan thanked for his life.

Expanding Bullets Can Be Confused With Exploding Ones

Rifle and pistol bullets have been designed that expand or mushroom on impact. Hunting rounds in particular have half jackets, exposing the soft nose so that the lead expands to minimize over-penetration.

During the Burmese campaign, the old lee Enfield .303 round-nosed bullets were modified at an arms factory in India. This increased their terminal capacity, and they earned the nickname ‘dum-dum bullets’.

With the adoption of spitzer rounds which are pointed, the dum-dum bullets faded into oblivion. The term is however still used to refer to expanding bullets.

The most common handgun round with expanding properties is the JHPs or jacketed hollow points. This bullet has an axial hole within which is a tiny polymer cap, where theorists insist mercury can be added.

When mercury is mentioned in conjunction with expanding rounds, it’s probably mercury compounds in the materials rather than elemental liquid mercury.

Winter is here and we’ve got crappie on the brain. Whether you are targeting slab crappie the size of dinner plates or just looking to get some tasty fillets, gearing up with a few top lures is essential.

Crappie are not alway easy to catch but you don’t need a million and one lures to get the job done. Assembling a few of the best crappie lures is all it takes to hook more and bigger fish through the ice every time.

Looking to put together the ultimate crappie ice fishing tackle box? Well, you’ve come to the right place.

On this list, you’ll find 11 unbeatable crappie lures that have been proven choices among experienced ice anglers for years. Take a look at the selection below to see what you’ve been missing.

1. Demon Jig

Custom Jigs and Spins Demon Jig has a long, time-tested history of success on the ice. Take a peek in any diehard crappie angler’s arsenal and you’ll see one of these classic lures.

We put the Demon Jig at the top of this list because it may be the only lure you need to catch crappie all winter long. Its beetle shape profile and vertical hook presentation makes it ideal for delicate bait presentations that crappie often crave. And the Demon Jig’s powers don’t stop there. Choose from several tantalizing glow colors and a range of sizes that will make it your go-to bait on the ice.

How to ice fish with a Demon Jig

Demon Jigs excel at targeting early ice crappie that suspend over shallow weed beds. However, you can scale up in size to target crappie all season long at any depth. These tiny jigs require a delicate delivery with light 2-4 pound test line. We even like to add a small split shot 12 inches above the jig. This puts tension on the rod tip to help transmit bites better.

As a vertical hanging jig, it pairs well with live bait. Use a couple maggots or a juicy wax worm to tip a size 8 or 10 Demon for a finesse approach. Short, small hops just above suspended crappie drives them wild.

When live minnows are the ticket for a tough bite, switch to a size 4 or 6. Hook a minnow how you see fit and drop it down. This is a great option for a deadstick rod.

2. Acme Tungsten Sling Blade Jig

We thought it would be nice to include a newcomer to the crappie ice fishing scene. It may be new, but it is fast earning its place in the ranks as a killer crappie bait.

The Sling Blade gets its name from a unique pivoting hook that imparts a vertical swing to any plastic or live bait on the hook. When you need to show finicky fish something fresh, grab an Acme Sling Blade. Sizes and colors for any situation are available.

How to ice fish with an Acme Tungsten Sling Blade Jig

As with any horizontal tungsten jig, tip the hook with your favorite plastic or bait. For most of ice season, a size 3 jig is fine but step up to size 5 when crappie are aggressive and you need to get back down fast.

Use a quick, consistent jigging motion to get that hook swinging. Soft plastics develop a special action on the Sling Blade that you can’t get on any other tungsten jig.

Some anglers think the swinging hook interferes with good hook sets but we find the opposite to be true. Almost every crappie gets the hook right in the top of their mouth.

3. VMC Tungsten Probe Jig

Without question, the VMC Probe Jig is a prerequisite for any ice angler wanting a universal crappie lure. The TriggerX plastic has a profile that mimics a diverse range of natural forage found in most crappie waters.

Coupled with a 1/16 or 1/32 ounce tungsten jig, this lure tempts all crappie with its seductive tail flicks. Even the slightest quiver of your rod sets the Probe Jig in motion. The 1.25” long plastic is just the right size to grab the attention of hungry fish.

How to ice fish with a VMC Tungsten Probe Jig

Like most soft plastics aimed ate getting crappie to bite under the ice, the VMC Tungsten Probe Jig is best fished with subtlety. Drop down on a school but stop short about 1 to 3 feet above them. Give a few moderate hops then make it stutter on the spot. Interested crappie will rise fast and gulp it down.

We recommend having both the 1/16 and 1/32 ounce sizes in a few different colors. Black chartreuse glow, pink chartreuse glow, natural glow, and chartreuse glow are our favorites. Tipping the Probe with a single maggot is often the best way to seal the deal on finicky fish.

4. Ratso Jig

Custom Jigs and Spins makes another entry on our list with the ever popular Ratso Jig. This horizontal, lead-head jig yields big results on slab-sized crappie. No ice fishing kit is complete until you get a few of these.

Once you drop down through the ice with a Ratso, you’ll see why they earn their reputation year after year. The super soft, flexible body supplies the ultimate in finesse. Shake it on the spot or hold it in place. Either way, that delicate Ratso tail will mesmerize even the most clever panfish.

How to ice fish with a Custom Jigs and Spins Ratso Jig

The Ratso is ideal for shallow water applications. That’s why this is the first jig we tie on our line for early ice panfish. Choose a 1/32 or 1/64 ounce jig in chartreuse, orange sherbet or any glow color you like.

No need to tip this lure with bait. Just bounce it on the spot and that is all the convincing crappie need.

5. Lindy Little Nipper Feather Jig

Sometimes it takes a more natural approach to yank a stubborn crappie through the ice. Enter the Lindy Little Nipper Feather Jig. This supremely simple jig gives all the right action using nothing but a feather.

Each barb on the feather jig moves with bewitching gentleness that not even modern soft plastics can match. Each lead jig has a contrasting feather hand tied and glued securely in place. When the bite gets tough, we reach for the Lindy Little Nipper.

How to ice fish with a Lindy Little Nipper Feather Jig

The Little Nipper isn’t necessarily the first lure we tie on for winter crappie but it certainly should be part of every ice angler’s repertoire when all else fails. Both the 1/16 and 1/32 ounces sizes in white and chartreuse are a staple in our box.

It’s hard to fish the Little Nipper Jig wrong but a slow approach highlights the fine action of the feathers. Keep it above suspended crappie where they see it best. This is not the most durable jig but it out lasts most plastics 9 times out of 10.

6. Clam Maki Plastics

Deep in the heart of ice fishing country, Maki is a household term heard in just about every conversation. Clam Maki Plastics aren’t just a recommended bait, they are a requirement for serious anglers chasing big crappie.

Maki Plastics come in all shapes and sizes. From minnow mimics to alien-like squids, all are capable of slaying monster crappie in every lake, pond and river. Each type is expertly designed to imitate some form of aquatic life for an unrivaled “match the hatch” look. Popular Maki include the Maki Jamei, Maki Mino and Maki Polli.

How to ice fish with Clam Maki Plastics

Tungsten jigs are among the best way to serve up Maki Plastics to all panfish. You’ll get the most enticing action using horizontal jig presentations. But don’t limit yourself. Some anglers like to use Maki Plastics to tip spoons or lipless crankbaits for added flare.

We prefer to pair Maki Plastics with 1/16 and 1/32 ounce tungsten jigs. Go with glow colors. Especially, when crappie are holding over deep basins where less light penetrates through ice and water. Use a gentle jigging cadence to make the Maki fingers dance.

7. Little Atom Nuggies

Little Atom Nuggies have all the right curves in all the right places. These soft plastics feature the ingredients needed to sleuth up a full limit of crappie on the ice. An ultra-finesse tail and an egg shaped body match up nicely with small tungsten jigs.

With over a dozen colors and scent impregnated into every Nuggie, this small bait packs a big wallop. When downsizing becomes the name of the game, reach for the Little Atom Nuggies.

How to ice fish with Little Atom Nuggies

There are days on the ice when schooling crappie are right below you but not a single fish wants to bite. That’s when you put on a Little Atom Nuggie. Drop it down on a small tungsten jig and work it with a light touch. The super soft tail wiggles all on its own.

This is not a search bait. The inch long plastic has a tiny profile so it’s best reserved for enticing panfish that you know are nearby.

8. Rapala Ultra Light Rippin’ Rap

You would be hard pressed to find any top lure list that doesn’t have a Rapala lure on it. Then again, Rapala produces some of the finest baits around so it makes sense. Keeping with that trend, the Ultra Light Rippin’ Rap claims a top spot as one of the best lipless crankbaits for tackling slab crappie on the ice.

Rippin’ Raps have a full compliment of vibrating BB rattles, realistic holographic eyes and textured finishes that single out big fish in the school.

How to ice fish with the Rapala Ultra Light Rippin’ Rap

Staying on top of schooling winter crappie is a constant challenge and search baits are a must. The Rippin’ Rap is among the best lures for calling in fish. Jig it aggressively to engage the intense rattles. Let it drop with a slow flutter followed by a short pause.

Once you mark fish on the flasher, tone your action down and keep it above the fish. With subtle twitches, raise it up as fish rise to strike. Color choice depends on water clarity but pearl grey shiner and glow never fail.

9. Salmo Chubby Darter

Salmo hit a home run with the Chubby Darter. For ice anglers there is no better alternative to live bait. The plump minnow profile and potent action entice strikes when the bite gets tough.

The Chubby Darter is a vertical wobbler with no equal. Its high density foam body combines a slow sink rate with wobbling maneuvers that drive crappie wild. You’ll find this lure in two sizes and nearly a dozen life-like colors.

How to ice fish with the Salmo Chubby Darter

When ice fishing for crappie, go with the smaller 1/16 ounce size 3 Salmo Chubby Darter. As far as color choice, stick with what works where you typically fish. We like the gold yellow perch and silver red orange combinations.

Start out jigging with quick rising snaps to get the Chubby Darter wobbling. The intensity of the wobble will send this lure far outside the area of your hole. Don’t be surprised if it disappears momentarily from your flasher screen. Now, let it drop with a controlled fall. Most crappie come in for the kill as it sinks so watch for sudden slack in the line.

10. Kastmaster Spoons

No tackle box is complete without the addition of a Kastmaster Spoon. That’s why most serious ice anglers have a few on hand. The unique beveled cuts and fast sinking design lets you drop down quickly with a captivating flutter.

No spoon is better for sharp shooting crappie holding tight to structure or in deep water. With nearly limitless color and size options, the Kastmaster is one of the most versatile spoons on the ice.

How to ice fish with a Kastmaster Spoon

Kastmasters don’t get the love they deserve from ice anglers looking to take advantage of hot crappie bites. This is the ultimate spoon for picking off eater crappie without spooking the school.

Start with 1/12 ounce Kastmasters and drop them down just above marked fish. Pound it on the spot with aggressive 6 inch lifts of the rod tip to get the best jittering flash and vibration from the lure. Once fish start rising to the bait, give it a quivering lift and get them to chase. To call in fish from a distance, try a Kastmaster Rattlemaster. Tip these spoons with waxies or maggots as well.

11. Swedish Pimple Spoons

It takes true greatness to earn the mythical status Swedish Pimples hold among ice anglers. Decades of proven fish catching power means that stepping on the ice without one is ill-advised.

Great care was taken in the Swedish Pimple design to make it the best spoon under the ice. It’s delicate flutter when jigged and the classic red “flipper” keep crappie coming back for more season after season.

How to ice fish with a Swedish Pimple Spoon

The Swedish Pimple shines brightest as a finesse spoon. We opt for the small 1/10 ounce size for fussy crappie and the 1/5 ounce size when fish are deep. Keep a variety of colors on hand to accommodate different water conditions but chartreuse and yellow prism colors as well as the “Ice” lineup are our favorites.

Jig the Pimple as you would any other spoon. To really engage the mouth watering action of the flipper produce rapid twitches with your rod. Minute movements are all it takes to close the deal on curious crappie. Also, don’t forget to tip Swedish Pimples with bait.

Ice fishing for crappie

Now that you know which ice fishing lures are the best for crappie, let’s take a look at when and where to put them to use.

Finding crappie under the ice

Crappie seldom pick a spot and stay put all year long. They move from location to location to meet their basic needs as the season changes.

• Early ice crappie tend to hold along the edges of shallow weed beds with healthy vegetation. Food is prolific and crappie will school up in the 7 to 12 foot zone on many lakes.

• As winter progresses, you’ll often find dispersed schools of crappie suspended over deep basins. Find them anywhere from 20 to 40 feet deep, sometimes over the deepest part of the basin.

• Once late winter arrives, crappie push to the edges of the basin adjacent to weedy flats. These weedy flats are usually the same areas crappie stage in for the spring spawn.

Tactics to catch more crappie

Ice fishing for crappie is not always a sure bet. Increasing the odds that you go home successful takes more than just luck. Put the odds in your favor with a few tips the pros always follow.

• Fish efficiently: Pre-scout your lakes to eliminate unproductive water. By keying in on likely habitat and topography, you’ll spend more time in productive areas. Lake maps and GPS are critical components to catching more crappie.

• Fish the prime-time bite: It’s easy to want to pack up and call it a day before the sun hits the horizon. However, some of the hottest crappie fishing on the ice occurs after dark. Check out our complete guide to ice fishing at night to make the most of the night bite.

• Watch the weather: Cold snaps and sudden changes in weather can turn off a crappie bite. Even below the ice, crappie are sensitive to weather. Change your tactics and practice patience when the going gets tough.

• Move, move, move: Crappie are a schooling fish. During ice fishing season, finding crappie means drilling lots of holes. Find likely spots but make sure you move around to track down the school. (Bonus tip – drop your transducer through the ice and swing it slowly from side to side to pick up fish from a wider area)

Don’t forget about live bait

If there is one bait that rarely fails to catch crappie, it’s a small live minnow. Hook a minnow on a plain hook with a split shot 6 inches above it for a killer deadstick technique. You can also try hooking a live minnow on a tungsten jig for a more active jigging approach.

Among the best live baits for crappie are maggots and waxies. As we mentioned before, tipping any lure with a waxy or maggot usually results in more strikes.

A complete crappie ice fishing arsenal should always have a little live bait on hand. Don’t miss our recent article to see the best live bait for ice fishing.

Parting words

Can’t get enough lure recommendations? Stock up this season and take a look at more of the best ice fishing lures for trout, perch and walleye.

To see the Benelli M4 in action, check out the video above. For more gun content, make sure to subscribe to Pew Pew Tactical on YouTube.

Tactical shotguns are favorites among the home-defense crowd, known for their reliable performance and ability to adapt to close quarters environments.

And the Benelli M4 is no exception. This Italian 12-gauge has a reputation for being a solid autoloading shotgun with style, unlike most others.

But what makes this shotgun so good?

Well, we’re going to find out today as we explore the legendary M4. Spoiler alert: it’s a beast.

I’m going to run you through the specs and features; then, we’ll take it to the range here in my home state of Tennessee and at Thunder Ranch in Oregon.

By the end of this article, I might just have you convinced why I think the M4 is one of the best combat shotguns on the market.

So, if you’ve ever caught yourself gazing at the M4 and wondering, “what if,” keep reading…

Let’s get the boring stuff out of the way first.

The M4 is a 12-gauge automatic shotgun with a barrel that sits at 18.5-inches. It eats 2 3/4 or 3-inch shells and comes in a few different models.

Mine happens to be the anodized black version.

It weighs in at a hefty 7.8-pounds with an overall length of 40-inches.

Controls sit where you expect, with the cross-bolt safety located where you need it.

Some say the bolt release is a little small, but I think it’s okay.

The ergonomics are fantastic on this shotgun. That over-molded pistol grip feels big and solid — perfect for handling heavier loads.

(By the way, I think for a combat shotgun, you need to go with a pistol grip.)

On the front, the M4 shipped with a plastic front grip.

It was okay, but I opted for an aftermarket M-LOK handguard so I could add a flashlight down the road.

As far as aesthetics, the M4 looks great.

The Benelli branding is minimal and super clean – though I have no idea why an Italian gun has an American flag on it. Regardless, I like it.

It didn’t come with much, just a box and the gun itself. So, I added one of our own Pew Pew Tactical Flatline rifle straps and a red dot.

ARGO

As I mentioned, this gun is a beast. It runs and runs well, but what makes it all work?

At the heart of the M4 rests the Auto-Regulating Gas-Operated system.

The ARGO system offers a short-stroke, dual-piston design. It was originally created and approved for use by the U.S. Marines in 1998.

And this bad boy thrives on heavier loads. Not to mention, the pistons are self-cleaning.

But if you do need to clean it, it all field strips super easy with no tools. It’s a ridiculously simple design.

Personally, I love that it is self-cleaning, not because I’m afraid to clean a gun. But because it runs clean.

The M4 will run forever in the field, and you won’t have to worry about reliability.

Why So Expensive?

Get the aloe, y’all…this is going to burn.

Depending on the setup, MSRP on the Benelli M4 comes in between $2,000 and $2,300.

Street price is $1,800 to $1,900 unless you want the collapsible stock…which is unobtanium.

And if you do find one, expect to double the price of the gun.

Full disclosure, I paid full pandemic price for mine – buy once, cry like six times.

Why is this gun so darn expensive?

Blame it on the Italians, man. Italian shotguns have long held the reputation for being premium builds with top-of-the-line pricing.

While $2,300 seems steep, compared to other Italian guns (like Beretta’s DT11 topping out at $20,000…no typo there), it’s kind of a steal at $2K.

But really, with the M4, you pay for the reliability.

This shotgun will literally go through the apocalypse with you. You can’t stop it.

And that tends to be well worth the price, especially if you consider it for defensive purposes.

With all that said and done, let’s talk about how it did at the range…

How Does the M4 Shoot?

I took the M4 to Thunder Ranch for a private shotgun class with Clint Smith.

TV Guide version: it feels like a precision machine – smooth and easy.

Back home in Tennessee, I used Kent number 7 alongside some higher brass turkey loads, which I think are Winchester.

One of the things I like about this gun is the trigger. It’s short, light, and crisp. No complaints here.

Combat loading on the M4 feels super clean. You just drop in a shell, hit that release, and you’re ready to rock and roll.

The rubber on the stock and the overall weight eat a lot of the recoil, meaning you can run this all day without needing to see your chiropractor.

Accuracy-wise…it gets the job done. I mean, the Marines use it for a reason. I brought out a bag of Granny Smith apples for my testing because blowing stuff up with shotguns is a good time.

I also used rifled slugs to touch out to 100-yards.

How’d she do? Just fine. Again, smooth is the word of the day, and that’s how she ran.

Even with the stock iron sights, the M4 just works. I eventually added a Sig Sauer Romeo 5 to mine, and that ups the ante.

(If you need some optics suggestions, check out our guide to the Best Red Dots for Shotguns.)

Downsides to the M4

Now, everything has a downside. There’s no such thing as perfect, and the M4 has a flaw – the capacity.

Because of our wonderful government and 922R nonsense, all M4s come as a 5+1. That’s kind of lame.

Also, you may hear guys on the internet say the M4 doesn’t do so well with light loads. In my experience, it eats light loads just as well as it eats the big stuff.

Again, it’s durable and built like a tank, but it’s heavy. Fully loaded, it sits at over 10-pounds, so eat your Wheaties.

Also, once more, there’s the price. This gun ain’t cheap.

And the aftermarket goodies are high too. The entire M4 market is a little out of control. Blame John Wick. And the Italians. And the Marines.

But speaking of the aftermarket…

Benelli M4 Upgrades

One of my favorite things about the Benelli M4 is the upgrades…there’s a lot! From foregrips to magazine tubes to optics and lights, you can customize what you want.

Need some help getting started?

Off the bat, swap out the standard sights for some Meprolight Night Sights.

Then throw on a red dot. I used the Sig Sauer Romeo 5, but the Trijicon RMR works too.

While we’re talking optics if you want to mount the optic low enough to co-witness with irons, grab a Scalarworks Mount.

Remember how I said it has a low capacity? You can work around that with a Mesa Tactical Sureshell Carrier.

Also, grab an M-LOK handguard to throw on some accessories. One of our other writers, Travis, prefers the Strike Industries Hayl Rail.

In fact, Travis has a whole article dedicated to his favorite Benelli M4 upgrades.

By the Numbers

Reliability: 5/5

Some guys on the interweb have complained about trouble with birdshot. For me and multiple thousands of rounds of birdshot, the M4 is perhaps the most reliable gun I’ve ever run.

Ergonomics: 4/5

The big grip is fantastic, and the controls are solid. The foregrip it comes with is so-so but is an easy replacement for something bigger.

Accuracy: 5/5

Rifled slugs at 100-yards? Fuggedaboutit.

Customization: 5/5

The aftermarket for the M4 is robust, albeit overpriced — lots of options for magazine tubs, night sites, rails, handguards, and more. OK, maybe not as many options as we’re used to in the AR world…but for a shotgun, the Benelli is the top of the heap for dialing in your gun.

Value: 4/5

You get a LOT for the price. But boy, that price…

Overall: 4.5/5

This is a little odd because I call the M4 the best combat shotgun on planet Earth…so shouldn’t it be a 5/5? Well, that price is painful, and it’s heavy. And I think most folks will want to swap out a couple of things on their stock Benelli. So yeah, it’s a crazy solid gun…but still sitting at a 4.5.

Conclusion

Benelli’s M4 stands as a shining example of what a good Italian auto shotgun can do.

Far and away, it’s the best combat shotgun on the market. This autoloader looks great, runs smooth, offers up a certain cool factor, and you can trust your life to it.

It earns two huge thumbs up for me. Without hesitation, I recommend you run out and buy an M4.

PPT Writer, Travis Pike, contributed to this review.

Again, to see the Benelli M4 in action, check out the video below.

What do you think of the Benelli M4? Let us know in the comments below. For more combat-style shotguns, make sure to peep our list of the Best Home Defense Tactical Shotguns.

If you’re reading this with a pack of freezer-burned chicken on the counter, help is here! You’ll learn that it’s safe to eat and how to cook it so it’s not rubbery and dry.

With the tips below, you’ll also learn how to prevent this from happening in the future so you can enjoy your favorite chicken recipes for dinner.

What is Freezer Burn?

Freezer burn is the evaporation of the moisture contained in the chicken meat being drawn out, and freezing around the chicken. This means the chicken will be drier once it is thawed out.

Is Freezer Burn Chicken Safe to Eat?

Chicken that is freezer burned is still perfectly safe to eat. If it was fresh when you froze it, you can still cook and enjoy it! I’m going to show you how to prevent this from happening and the best methods for cooking freezer burn chicken so that it

Why Does Freezer Burn Happen?

Freezer burn happens when food is stored in the freezer in packaging that is too thin to protect it from the frigid temperatures of your freezer.

Using thick, freezer-safe zip bags is the best way to prevent freezer burn.

One of the most common mistakes people make (I’ve been guilty of this too many times!) is placing chicken directly in the freezer when you get home from the store. The grocery store packaging is too thin to provide the protection the chicken needs to avoid freezer burn.

I also made a video to address this topic and give you a visual aid on the proper way to freeze chicken:

How to Tell if Chicken Has Freezer Burn?

At first glance, you’ll notice a layer of ice crystals have formed around the chicken itself. Depending on how long the chicken has been in the freezer the color of the meat itself may have a grayish hue to it.

Once cooked, freezer burned chicken can often have a leathery texture since the chicken has lost some of its moisture content in the freezer over time.

How to Cook Freezer Burned Chicken

Chicken that has been freezer-burned can still be enjoyed in a variety of ways. Each of these four methods provides extra moisture and flavor during the cooking process to disguise the fact that the chicken was slightly dehydrated from having freezer burn.

PoachPoaching chicken consists of cooking it in hot water and aromatics, infusing it with moisture and flavor. It’s a great way to cook freezer-burned chicken you plan to shred and add to soup or my Homemade Chicken Salad recipe.

CrockpotSlow-cooking freezer-burned chicken in a sauce will coat the meat with flavor and prevent it from being bone dry. My Slow Cooker Salsa Chicken is a perfect recipe, and you can use it to create tacos, loaded potatoes, and sliders.

Bake This method works great for skin-on cuts like thighs and whole chickens since the layer of skin locks in moisture while the fat drains to the bottom of the pan and hydrates the meat as it cooks. Test it out with these juicy Oven-Baked Chicken Thighs.

Make soup! The soup’s broth will rehydrate the chicken and mask any off-putting flavor. Cook the chicken with your method of choice (except grilling) and shred it before adding to the soup. My Chicken Taco Soup would be a great way to test out this method.

If you’re working with boneless, skinless chicken breasts, avoid using the oven since there’s no skin or fat to prevent moisture loss.

Classic zip bags that are not specifically marked as “freezer” bags, are not thick enough on their own to provide the needed protection for freezing chicken. If you don’t have freezer bags handy you can double up on the classic bags to provide an additional layer of protection from freezer burn for your chicken.

When you’re ready to prepare your chicken, be sure to use one of these safe methods for thawing frozen chicken.

Today I’m going to show you the best Vortex red dot sight.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over 10 scopes alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best Vortex red dot, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

Red Dots vs Holographic Sights

Just quickly, what’s the difference between red dot sights and holographic sights? And which is better?

Holographic sights, or holographic optics, use a laser to project a reticle onto a glass plate. The dot is then reflected up to your eye. Vortex makes a great holographic sight, the Vortex Razor AMG UH-1.

In red dot sight models, the reticle is projected directly onto the front lens. The lens is coated with a special material that allows it to display a crisp red dot on your target.

Holographic sights may have an advantage over red dot sights in durability and weight, but if you’re looking for something lightweight and easy to use, you may want to consider getting the best red dot sight for your needs instead.

How to Choose a Red Dot Sight

A red dot sight is a type of weapon sight that uses a red dot projected onto a crosshair, creating a sighting method in which the operator looks through the scope and aims at an object. Originally developed for use in military applications, they have become popular among hunters and recreational shooters. Many red dot sights can be mounted on pistols or rifles alike to give users quick access to their weapons while preserving accuracy. There are several different types of red dot sights such as holographic and laser sights.

But what do you look for when buying a red dot sight? The first thing you need to consider is price. If you want a red dot to have a lot of magnification, but also have a good field of view, high zoom optics are recommended. In addition these sights may have other features such as illuminated reticle locations and night vision lasers. High-end optics for red dot sights can cost anywhere from $400 to $1000 or more.

Next to look into is the brightness level of the sight itself. If you don’t plan on using it in dim light environments, then a brighter sight will be fine for your needs. However, if you’re planning on shooting in dim light sometimes, then low intensity sights are preferred by many people including hunters and shooters alike. The third thing to look for is user-friendly features such as a quick-release mount and an adjustable reticle. And lastly, the type of red dot sight you decide to buy should match your needs. For example, if you want a compact and lightweight red dot sight with a small magnification range, then an auto tracking optic (ATO) may be more suitable for you. On the other hand, if your needs are more specific and require a longer range with higher magnification than you may want to go with an illuminated red dot sight that has different types of reticles such as mil dots or crosshairs.

Regardless of your needs it is best to choose a red dot sight that matches your specific needs and goals. You can go out and try different types of red dot sights with the hopes of finding the perfect one for you, but don’t expect to find something perfect. The chances are most people will not be able to find their exact needs in one purchase, and each type of red dot sight will have different capabilities and limitations based on its size and magnification.

The good news is I already did all the research for you and found the best red dot sights made by Vortex. Let’s take a look…

The Best Vortex Red Dot Sights of 2021

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best Vortex red dots:

1. Vortex Spitfire AR Prism Scope: Best Vortex Red Dot for AR-15
2. Vortex Crossfire: Best for the Budget
3. Vortex Viper: Best Red Dot for Glock
4. Vortex Razor: Most Premium

1. Vortex Spitfire AR Prism Scope: Best Vortex Red Dot for AR-15

The Spitfire AR Prism Scope offers all the features of Vortex’s best red dot sight on an AR-15 platform. It may not be the Vortex Strike Eagle, but it’s the best red dot around. If you shoot AR-15’s, this is absolutely the sight you need.

Let’s dive into the features!

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The AR Prism Scope is constructed from glass lenses with anti-reflective coatings, providing a crystal clear sight picture with 100% field of view.

The design of this sight is also great for people with astigmatism. You won’t see anything through the lens that you shouldn’t. When working with AR-15’s, this is key when you’re trying to fire off quick, extremely accurate shots.

Probably one of the cooler features of this sight is the etched DRT (Dual Ring Tactical) MOA reticle. It’s perfect for quick and accurate close-range firing.

The prism design on this red dot allows you to see the reticle with or without illumination, which is handy in case the battery dies. However, the reticle does have twelve different intensity levels so you can choose the perfect illumination for the surrounding conditions.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Vortex Spitfire AR Prism Scope allows for a large eye relief, which is great for shooters who wear glasses or protective eyewear.

Additionally, the eye box is wide enough to provide ample viewing space for shooters.

Durability

Like a lot of other Vortex sights and scopes, the Vortex Spitfire AR Prism Scope is shockproof, waterproof, and fog-proof. If you do a lot of shooting competitions, this red dot might have to be your go-to. It’s compact, resistant to corrosion, mounts squarely and soundly, and can withstand severe weather conditions.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The bold turrets allow the shooter to make adjustments quickly and accurately. The zero-reset feature allows you to re-zero the rifle without having to re-shoot the target at 100 yards after each adjustment. Combine these two features with the fast-focus eyepiece, you can make quick shots without having to fumble around with your sight.

What’s really special about the Vortex Spitfire AR Prism Scope is the 5.56 BDC turret with settings for AR-15s up to 700 yards! This feature can only be found on the Spitfire.

Parallax & Magnification

The Spitfire AR Prism is parallax-free with a magnification of 1x. These settings are great for ARs.

Mounting Options & Included Accessories

The Vortex Spitfire AR Prism Scope comes with a collapsible mount, which can be adjusted for height or can’t easily. It allows the shooter to quickly swap between magnified (magnifier) and red dot (1x) optic. It also comes with an integrated 11-slot Picatinny rail for mounting additional accessories like lasers, flashlights, or bipods.

Summary

The Vortex Spitfire AR Prism Scope is a great alternative to the ACOG or Aimpoint PRO. It offers an easy-to-use, rugged, and lightweight red dot optic that is widely compatible with most AR platforms.

Furthermore, it provides a reticle that is open enough to accurately hold at all times, which means you won’t have to constantly re-zero your rifle. The Vortex Spitfire AR Prism Scope also comes with a high-quality lower 1/3 co-witness mount type.

If the Spitfire is a little too outside of your price range, the SPARC AR and SPARC II are less expensive, comparable alternatives by Vortex. Or, perhaps you want to check out another quality brand, like Sig Sauer Romeo 5.

All in all, the Spitfire AR Prism Scope has earned its place as one of Vortex’s best red dot sights.

2. Vortex Crossfire Red Dot Sight: Best for the Budget

I can’t stress enough how good of a value the Vortex Crossfire red dot is. When you compare the cost to the features you’re getting, it really is an unbeatable deal.

I’ve tested countless red dots in my day, and this one definitely gives the most bang for its buck.

It really is perfect for someone who simply needs an affordable option without giving up much in return.

Enough chatter, let’s see what makes the Crossfire so great!

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is crystal clear. In comparison to other reflex sights, the glass is much better.

It’s made from an anti-reflective material that will not wear off over time or damage the sight’s reticle clarity in any way.

The reticle is crisp and precise. It’s also an illuminated reticle (laser). The size of the dot is 2 MOA. It doesn’t have any other types of reticles, such as mil dots or hash marks, etc.

The Crossfire’s light source comes from a high-intensity LED bulb. This bulb is very bright and will not be affected by the wind like some other red dot sights with incandescent bulbs. This means you can shoot more accurately out to greater distances than before.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Crossfire has unlimited eye relief, meaning you can adjust quickly and efficiently to your target.

Durability

The Vortex Crossfire Red Dot Sight has been designed for a lifetime of use, with a steel housing and a lens cover that is nearly impossible to scratch.

Its quartz-type battery lasts an entire year before it needs changing, and can be easily replaced without tools. It’s made of aluminum and has a very hard-anodized finish that increases its durability and strength.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The max windage and elevation on the Crossfire is 100 MOA.

The knobs are pretty basic and can be a little tough to adjust, but they are completely reliable. This red dot also holds zero extremely well.

Parallax & Magnification

The Vortex Crossfire is parallax-free, and it has 1x magnification. This works great for short and long-distance shooting with your rifle or shotgun, and it allows you to quickly focus on the target.

Mounting Options & Included Accessories

The Crossfire comes with a lower 1/3 co-witness mount, low height mount, and high height mount.

You can mount it on almost any weapon or arrangement of weapons, and still get the desired result.

Summary

The Crossfire is a well-rounded, rugged, and reliable red dot sight that can be used in almost any scenario.

The glass is crystal clear, the reticle is crisp and precise, the elevation and windage are well-designed for accuracy.

It has unlimited eye relief, and the battery life lasts an entire year before it needs changing. Best of all, every Vortex product comes with an unconditional, unlimited lifetime warranty, so you can breathe easy knowing they’ll take care of you no matter what.

Overall, this red dot sight is definitely worth its price. If you’re not on a budget and want something with a tad more umph to it, check out the Crossfire’s cousins, the Vortex SPARC and the Vortex Strikefire.

3. Vortex Viper Red Dot: Best Red Dot for Glock

For those of you specifically shooting Glocks, the Viper is the Vortex optic you want.

Out of the sights I’ve tested for my own Glocks, this open has worked the best by far. It’s lightweight, durable, and very user-friendly.

Check out the specs here:

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Vortex Viper is a 1x red dot sight. It has a fully multi-coated optical lens surface, which makes the glass crystal clear for your target.

The reticle also has unlimited eye relief and it’s an open design (no hash marks).

The dot size is 6 MOA. The illumination level can be adjusted in brightness. The reticle can be set to low or high, depending on your preference. The illumination also indicates when the battery runs low, so you don’t accidentally leave it on when you exit your vehicle in the dark. Plus, the bright red dot makes it easy to see in any lighting or weather condition.

The Viper works in both single and dual modes without needing excessive programming for Glock or other pistol calibers.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Viper has unlimited eye relief, which makes it easy to transition from target to target accurately.

Durability

The Viper is made from aluminum, which is extremely lightweight and strong at the same time. I’ve taken my Vipers on multiple hunting trips without any issues.

The ArmorTek finish has held up great, and the lens covers are nearly impossible to scratch or damage.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage settings can be easily adjusted.

The knobs are also very durable and will not be affected by the shock or recoil of your weapon.

Parallax & Magnification

The Viper has 1x magnification, which is clear enough for you to quickly focus on your target even in low light conditions. The magnification isn’t too high either, which is beneficial for both target accuracy and battery life. It also has a parallax-free reticle.

Mounting Options & Included Accessories

The Vortex Viper comes with a Weaver or Picatinny mount and locking screws that can be used with most small compact handguns, rifles, shotguns, and even bullpups.

It also comes with an AK-style rear sight that can be mounted on almost any weapon or arrangement of weapons as well.

Summary

The Vortex Viper is a great choice for your Glock.

It’s constructed very well, easy to use, and will last you a long time without any issues. It’s perfect for anyone looking for a simple, dependable red dot sight.

4. Vortex Razor Red Dot: Most Premium

This sight, the Vortex Razor Red Dot, is cream of the crop.

If you want the best of the best, and you’re willing to pay the price tag for it, the Razor is what you need. Vortex took several of the primo features they’ve mastered and carefully crafted them into this design.

It really is a top-notch product. Let’s find out why.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is astounding. You get HD clarity without any distortion or loss of focus, so you can always see your target clearly.

The lens area is large and comfortable to look through, with unlimited eye relief for fast and easy target acquisition. It also works great in any lighting condition, including cloudy days or bright sunlight, making it easy to spot your target even when other sights may not be working well.

If you don’t have 20/20 vision, this red dot will make you feel like you do. With this sight, the dot is, well, a dot. There’s no light spreading, no glares, no flares. The Razor has nine illumination settings for different light conditions, and no matter when you’re shooting or where you’re looking, your light will always be right on target.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Razor has unlimited eye relief, much like the other sights we’ve looked at here, but what’s great about this red dot is the eye box is wide and has a super crisp, defined outline.

This feature, combined with the ultra-clear reticle, makes quick target acquisition a breeze.

Durability

Vortex really stacked the Razor with durability features. There are a lot, so let’s just list them out:

• XR Fully Multi-Coated lenses
• Lightweight (only 1.3oz)
• Thick aluminum coating around the window
• Single-piece chassis
• Waterproof
• Shockproof
• Matte Anodized Finish
• ArmorTek coating

These are most, if not all, of Vortex’s primo durability features all rolled into one package. And for that reason, this sight packs a big punch and can withstand an incredible amount of wear and tear.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

Just like the Razor is made from carbon fiber, so is its elevation and windage adjustment knobs.

The hard material provides a firm, precise grip. Plus, they have a cool flip-out detent so you can quickly lock them in place without any fumbling or messing with them.

Parallax & Magnification

The Razor is also incredible with parallax and magnification. Much like the other sights we’ve looked at here, it is parallax-free and has 1x magnification, which is clear enough for fast target acquisition as well as accuracy with tight groupings at longer distances.

Mounting Options & Included Accessories

The Razor’s mount is Picatinny compatible, so it can mount on multiple platforms with ease. It also has locking screws. The included battery will provide plenty of power for the sight, and if your battery runs low, the red dot will turn off to save you from ever coming up empty when it matters most.

Summary

If you want the best of the best in red dots, the Vortex Razor is what you need. It’s made from high-quality materials and performs at a high level every time without fail. It’s also got all of Vortex’s top-notch durability features that will ensure you get many years out of this investment without needing to buy another sight again.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my Best Vortex Red Dot Sights guide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which Vortex red dot sight will you pick for your firearm? Or perhaps you already have one and would like to share your thoughts.

Either way, let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

FAQ’s

Few things are more frustrating than sitting in a cold duck blind all day and having no ducks show up. Just because you have water, it doesn’t mean you will also have ducks. You know you can bring deer and bear into a location of your choosing by creating food plots or bait sites for them, but have you ever considered doing the same for waterfowl? Actually, it’s something every cold and weary duck hunter has contemplated. It may not be as simple as throwing birdseed on the water, but attracting ducks may not be as difficult as it seems.

Wild ducks are looking for more than just a water source when they stage. There are several factors at play on and under the surface of those ponds. Flight is the most energetically expensive method of locomotion, and ducks move very long distances during migration. In light of this, it makes sense that ducks are pretty focused on food and are always scrounging for a snack. By learning about the best foods for ducks, you can learn to predict sites where specific ducks may congregate, or enhance your property to bring the ducks to you.

Duck Diet Basics

It may surprise you to learn that ducks are omnivorous, meaning they eat both plants and animals. Depending on the duck, they consume an impressive variety of foods: earthworms, snails, slugs, mollusks, small fish, fish eggs, small crustaceans, grass, herbaceous plants, leaves, aquatic plants (green parts and the roots), algae, amphibians (tadpoles, frogs, salamanders, etc.), insects, seeds, grains, berries and nuts. The nutritional value of each of these keeps both wild ducks and their ducklings healthy. Without question, a varied diet helps ensure ducks get the nutrition they need to support healthy growth and development and sustain them through long migrations.

Another critical component to a wild duck’s diet is grit (sand, small pebbles, shells), which helps break down food in their crop and may provide essential minerals like calcium. Even ducklings need grit in their diet to break down food. The more nutritional value your food plots provide, the better.

A number of factors help narrow down the smorgasbord if you’re looking to track down or attract a specific species:

• Species: Some ducks have evolved to eat more specialized diets. Bill shape is a good indicator of diet. For example, narrow, serrated bills are efficient at grabbing fish while broad, rounded bills are great for digging up aquatic insects and algae.
• Season: Opportunistic eaters will take advantage of whatever food source is most plentiful during a particular time of year.
• Habitat, range and feeding style: It may seem like an obvious point to say that ducks that hang out preferentially in fields and meadows will eat more grains than fish, but keep in mind that a duck’s habitat may change along its migratory route. A duck that is gorging on grain today may be munching minnows next week, so you need to know what that particular species will be looking for in your neck of the woods. Pay attention to the feeding style of your target. Despite both being aquatically inclined, dabbling ducks will eat different things than deep-diving ducks simply because of how they search for food.

Aquatic Appetites

Of all the natural duck foodstuffs, aquatic plants may be the best place to focus your enhancement efforts. Feeding ducks will eat various kinds of aquatic vegetation – submerged and emergent, native and invasive – representing more than 25 different families. Examples include wild rice, wild celery, coontail, milfoil (including invasive Eurasian milfoil), pondweed, southern naiad and widgeon grass. According to Dr. Thomas E. Moorman, “Gadwalls and American wigeons relish the leafy portions of aquatic vegetation. Green-winged teal, northern pintails and mallards prefer the seeds produced by wetland plants. Canvasbacks, redheads and scaup feed heavily on roots and tubers, while ring-necked ducks consume more leafy plant material and seeds.”

Maximizing the diversity of aquatic plant species and growth forms in your duck pond is a good strategy for attracting a variety of waterfowl. If you are struggling to find specific information for your area about what plant species will attract which ducks, take a trip to a spot you know hosts migrating ducks and bring a plant identification guide. You can either take your species list to your local greenhouse and pond supply store or carefully and respectfully harvest wild specimens for transplanting (if it’s legal to do so).

Millet Time

Millet is an excellent attractant for ducks. Golden and Japanese varieties have been developed to grow quickly and prolifically in a variety of conditions – far more cheaply than corn – making them very popular with folks trying to establish duck food plots. With two or even three crops in a season, millet will self-seed and provide forage for ducks for an extended period.

Millet is best planted about 75 days before the first frost date in your area. Millet seed can be sown in prepared soil adjacent to a pond using a variety of methods (broadcast, drilling, fly-on) and will do well with minimal care as long as the young plants aren’t flooded too early in their development. Make sure you’re not planting before a big rain hits or you may be planting again later.

Good Grains

For grain supply, consider planting wild rice (zizania aquatica). This native North American aquatic grain is an annual, but should self-seed once established. Wild rice is very good at improving water quality and clarity so consider planting it if your pond needs a bit of a boost.

Wild rice is best planted in the fall as its germination is dependent on overwintering in the sediment layer of a pond or stream. Plant your seeds immediately after purchase. Seeds that dry out will not germinate. If all goes well, you will start to see young plants growing underwater in May. Wild rice reaches maturity in September and will be two to eight feet above the water line.

Planting Tips for Standing Water

The Conservation Commission of the State of Missouri offers the following tips for planting aquatic vegetation:

• Space approximately three to four feet apart in rows to allow for growth. The more sunlight, the better.
• Place submerged and floating-leaved plants along the 3- to 4-foot depth contour of the pond.
• Place emergent plants near the shore from the waterline out to depths of six to 12 inches.
• Do not place floating plants next to submerged plants so adequate light can reach young submerged plants.

Native Plants for Your Duck Pond

The best native plant species for your duck pond will depend largely on your geographic area. Some good picks to start your site-specific research with include:

• Wild rice
• Pondweeds
• Milfoils
• Smartweed
• Wild Celery
• Duckweed
• Coontail

No matter where you are, some common factors will influence how well your plants grow: water quality and clarity, salinity, water and sediment depth, wave and current energy. Keep these factors in mind when researching what species to try out in your pond.

Enhancing Native Food Sources

If you’re looking to enhance a natural area that is already providing native food sources for wild ducks, diversity is key. It’s time to be inclusive of all types of waterfowl. When a variety of waterfowl is using your waterways, you have a variety of waterfowl in the freezer. In some cases, it can extend your season.

If you have a field, add a pond. If you have a pond, clear an area for field-based foods. Within the pond itself, try to enhance or create both marshy and open water environments.

It pays to have a way to draw the water level down. During the spring and summer months, you can lower water levels to promote the growth of plants and food sources. You can also keep water levels low for ducks like pintails, mallards, teal and wigeon. It doesn’t take much to accomplish this, and it can be as easy as a pipe with a valve.

Plant an array of species to help ensure you always have something beneficial growing. Plant pondweeds and wild celery in the deepest areas of your pond, smartweed and wild rice in the mid-depths and millet and corn in the shallows. A healthy diversity of plant species should attract and support a healthy faunal diversity without further assistance from you.

Diversity in habitats and species will ensure you have the best foods for ducks available for your feathered friends no matter what Mother Nature throws at you.

Acorns

Of course, an article on duck diet would not be complete without mentioning the outliers. Wood ducks love acorns. Yes, acorns – preferably white oak species (oaks with rounded, lobed leaves) over red oak species (pointed-lobed leaves) for palatability and digestibility reasons. So, if wood ducks are something you’d like to see more of on your property, oak trees are excellent additions to throw into the mix.

In areas where you have a good source of acorns, you generally have a beaver problem as well. You may need to protect young trees with wire net beaver exclosures. When it comes to wood ducks, acorns and pecans are often the only food source you have. Protecting oak and pecan trees from beavers is all the more important.

Great Expectations

Deer and bear hunters create food plots they know will attract a big buck or giant boar. With the information we discussed and a little elbow grease, you can consistently attract waterfowl to your waters. In the long run, creating food sources for waterfowl is more than just feeding ducks. It’s not only creating a habitat for wild ducks but a critical habitat for other wildlife as well. Besides, you are probably tired of sitting in a freezing cold duck blind hoping for the best. It’s time to quit hoping and time to start shooting.

New chicken owners are often quick to purchase heat lamps to keep their flock warm in the winter and to maintain warmth within the chick brooder. However, this heating method is not safe and there are MUCH better options available. Today we are going to discuss the best alternatives to heat lamps for chickens and other barnyard animals.

Choosing a Safe Heat Lamp Alternative

Heat lamps have been used for years to warm livestock during freezing temperatures. They are also used in brooders for young chicks. These lamps have contributed to hundreds upon hundreds of barn and house fires so I have sworn them off, but my animals still need to stay warm… so… what are my options?

What is the Purpose of a Heat Lamp

Before we discuss heat lamp alternatives, let’s talk about why livestock owners use heat lamps to begin with.

Heat Lamps in a Brooder

When baby chicks are purchased from a hatchery or if you hatch your own chicks, they don’t have a mother hen to sit under for warmth. Since they don’t have mama hen’s body heat and they can’t regulate their body temperature, there has to be an artificial heat source.

Day-old chicks need a temperature of 95 degrees F in the brooder. 2-week-old chicks need 90 degrees F and the temperature requirement continues to drop 5 degrees per week until they move out of the brooder.

Heat lamps are used to provide this heat for the chicks until they are ready to move outside.

Heat Lamps in the Coop

A heat lamp is also often used to warm a chicken coop during cold weather. This really isn’t necessary, but in some areas where the temperatures drop below freezing, the extra heat can be helpful.

Why You Shouldn’t Use Heat Lamps

Providing your animals with heat isn’t a bad thing, but using unsafe heating equipment is. There are a few reasons why you should avoid using heat lamps for your livestock so let’s jump into those.

1. They are a fire hazard

The number one reason to stay away from heat lamps is the high risk of fire. Heat lamp bulbs get very hot and the heat cannot be regulated. This heat is concentrated in one area and, if placed too close, can catch nearby materials on fire.

Traditional heat lamps are hung up with a metal clamp. These clamps are known to shift and release causing the lamp to fall. When a heat lamp falls, the heat is transferred directly to the surface that it falls on. If this surface is coop bedding, wood, or another combustible material then you almost certainly have a barn fire.

2. They shatter easily

Heat lamp bulbs are not shatterproof. This means that if a lamp falls, the bulb may shatter and spread glass shards all around the floor of the coop, barn, or brooder.

A hot bulb can also shatter if practically anything touches it while it is hot. Imagine your animals splashing a bit of water or a loose feather flying around… once that water or the feather hits the bulb, bam! You have glass everywhere and potentially a fire.

Even if the fallen heat lamp doesn’t catch anything on fire, the broken glass would still be a huge safety concern.

3. They don’t distribute heat evenly

The heat from a heat lamp does not distribute evenly… it concentrates in the center. This poses a fire risk and it can make it difficult for the chicks or other animals to find a spot with a comfortable temperature. Since heat lamps warm up the entire space, chicks (and other animals) have a difficult time if they get overheated.

4. They produce disruptive light

Heat lamps emit a bright light that animals can’t get away from. This light can disrupt their natural sleep patterns as well as their hormone production. If you are using a heat lamp for laying age birds, this additional light can cause them to continue to lay eggs even when their bodies want to rest.

5. Chickens can keep themselves warm

Adult birds don’t really need supplemental heat in the winter. As long as you provide a healthy environment with proper ventilation and a wind break, their feathers keep them warm. This is the same for most farm animals.

If you do need artificial heat for your animals, check out the safe heat lamp alternatives listed below.

6 Safe Alternatives to Heat Lamps for Chickens

Heat lamps are one of many options for keeping your animals warm. Let’s dig into safe alternative heat sources for your homestead.

1. Heat Plates

This is my go-to choice for a heat lamp alternative. Heating Plates serve the same purpose as heat lamps without the high risk of fire. There are horizontal heat plates that are made to be used with young chicks and there are vertical (stand-up) heat plates that can be used with older birds.

Horizontal heat plates provide heat to chicks using much less electricity than a heat lamp. The chicks gather under the plate just as they would gather under a mother hen. You can adjust the height of the plate easily as the birds grow.

A vertical heat plate can be used for ducklings and older birds as well as some other livestock. This is a plate that heats up to warm animals that are standing or laying down near it. Some plates switch from horizontal to vertical so you can use them throughout the lifetime of your chickens.

Heat plates allow the birds to choose if they want to be in the heated area or if they want to move to a cooler spot. In fact, these plates don’t even warm the air. They will only warm a solid object (like a chick) that passes through the radiant heat emitted from the plate. This is important because different chicks may be comfortable at different temperatures.

The surface of a heat plate doesn’t get hot, either. When you touch it, it should feel warm, but it won’t burn you or your animals.

Heat lamps put out continual light that can disrupt the animal’s natural sleep cycles, but heat plates produce no light so sleep patterns are undisturbed.

I use an Ecoglow brooder for young chicks and this heating plate for ducklings and older birds.

Advantages:

• Less Electricity
• Very Low Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk
• Mimics Mother Hen
• Radiant Heat
• Low Surface Heat
• No Artificial Light
• Height Adjustable

2. Heat Pads

Electric heating pads are used as a heat lamp alternative for small animals (chicks, piglets, etc.), but they have to be protected from water. They can be placed under bedding, on the wall, or under a towel.

You can also make a faux heat plate by turning a small metal basket upside down and placing a heating pad on top. If you choose to use a heating pad, try to find one with a built-in thermostat.

Advantages:

• Lower Electricity Usage
• No Artificial Light
• Low Burn Risk
• No Shatter Risk

3. Hot Water Bottles

Bottles with hot water can be placed in with the animals that you are trying to warm. These bottles will need to be replaced frequently, but they can offer warmth temporarily. This is a safer alternative to a heat lamp that works well in an off-grid situation with no electricity, but it does require more labor on your part.

If you choose this method of heating, be sure to insulate the bottles with a rag or dish towel to keep the animals from burning themselves.

This won’t work for very young chicks that need high ambient temperatures (80-95 degrees F).

Advantages:

• No Electricity Usage
• No Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk

4. Ceramic Heat Emitter

Ceramic heat emitters are used in a similar fashion as heat lamps, but they provide heat without emitting light. No artificial light means that the animals’ natural sleep patterns are undisturbed. Since there is no glass bulb, they do not pose a shatter risk and the fire risk is much lower (but still present).

The surface temperature of the emitter can get very hot which can burn your animals if they touch it.

Advantages:

• Less Electricity
• Low Fire Risk
• Low Shatter Risk
• Radiant Heat Source
• No Artificial Light

5. Deep Litter Method

During the winter, you can increase the heat inside your coop or shelter by layering new bedding down on top of old bedding. Piling the bedding up like this is called the deep litter method. This method will increase the temperature inside the shelter for your animals without a safety risk.

Advantages:

• No Electricity Usage
• Increase Ambient Heat Naturally
• No Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk
• No Artificial Light

6. Natural Warming

The best heat lamp alternative is no supplemental heat at all (except when it comes to baby chicks). Most animals are just fine in the winter without any artificial heat. Just be sure to provide your livestock with a shelter that has a windbreak and proper ventilation. This will keep them dry and out of the wind.

Advantages:

• No Electricity Needed
• Increase Ambient Heat Naturally
• No Fire Risk
• No Shatter Risk

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