Before we start, I have another plug about the Friday Facebook event from 10 to 11 a.m., Eastern. I’ll be answering airgun questions on Facebook on this Pyramyd AIR Facebook page. To see the discussion, you must have a free Facebook account. You do not have to be a recognized Friend of Pyramyd AIR to ask a question.
If you want to set up a Facebook account, register on the link provided above. Once you have an account, sign in and then click on the link above once more to go to the page. Please join me on Friday, if you’re able!
Today, I want to explore some of the basic facts about precharged pneumatic operations, because I sense the time is right. Let me begin with the term precharged pneumatic.
What is a precharged pneumatic airgun?A precharged pneumatic (PCP) is an airgun that is filled with air and then shot many times before refilling. Compare that to a multi-pump pneumatic that is pumped many times by a built-in pump and then fired just once. To take another shot, the multi-pump has to be pumped up all over again.
Big boresHow many shots each precharged pneumatic gets on a single fill of air depends on just one thing: How much of the stored air is used for each shot? Big bore airguns use incredible amounts of air and, therefore, get very few shots per fill. A Quackenbush .457 Long Action rifle gets two good shots per fill; on mine, the max fill pressure is 3,500 psi. After the second shot, the gun is down to 2,200 pounds per square inch (psi). My rifle gets about 560 foot-pounds of muzzle energy on the first shot and 490 foot-pounds on shot two.
A .50-caliber Career Dragon Slayer can get 5 good shots on a 3,000 psi fill. That rifle generates just under 200 foot-pounds on the first shot and drops off to about 120 foot-pounds by the final shot. And, once again, the pressure in the reservoir will be down to somewhere around 2,000 psi when you’re finished. Exactly where it will be depends on how many shots have been fired.
That should answer another question that’s often asked: Should you get a scuba tank or a hand pump to fill a big bore? The answer is “neither.” To fill a big bore airgun, you really need a carbon fiber tank. I will explain all of this, but right now I need to back up, because this is report is supposed to be basic.
What is a hand pump?A modern high-pressure hand pump is a mechanical pump that enables a shooter to fill a pressure vessel with air compressed to a very high level by muscle power, alone. Being mechanical, the pump requires effort; and, as the pressure increases, the pumping effort increases with it. From zero up to somewhere above 1,500 psi, the effort is relatively easy and most able adults will have no difficulty pumping. Above about 1,500 psi is where the effort starts to become noticeable. When I say that, I shudder because people come in all shapes and sizes and there is no such thing as a standard person. So, perhaps I should say that above 1,500 psi is where I begin to notice an increase in effort. I once watched an adult woman struggle to pump over 1,600 psi, so please take what I say in that light.
Also, hand pumps fill guns slowly. Think of this. At the tire store the hydraulic lift hoists your car rapidly and with great ease. Now, you try to do the same thing at home with a hydraulic hand pump bought at the hardware store. It goes a little slower, wouldn’t you say? That is the difference between filling an airgun from a tank and filling it from a hand pump. If all you need to do is change one flat tire, a hydraulic hand pump is a great little tool. But if you’re running a tire store, you want to have five or six bays, each with its own hydraulic lift. If you’re going to be a serious PCP shooter, you will need serious air.
It can take 100 to 150 pump strokes of a hand pump to fill a big bore air rifle reservoir. It all depends on the size of the rifle’s reservoir.
A big bore gets two to five shots from a fill and drops down to 2,200 psi in the reservoir, then it has to be filled up to between 3,000 and 3,500 psi to shoot again. That happens to be the hardest place for a hand pump to operate; and if it takes 100-150 pumps to refill the gun, what do YOU think about using a hand pump on a big bore? Maybe, only if it’s your absolute last alternative? And, yes, I have done it a couple times.
Refilling a smallbore PCPA smallbore air rifle comes in any of four calibers: .177, .20. .22 or .25. While there are still a great differences among these guns in the amount of air they use per shot, none of them uses anywhere near the amount used by a big bore. So, a smallbore gets many more shots per fill than a big bore. The most powerful guns of the bunch get the fewest number of shots because they use the most air. The AirForce Condor is one of the most powerful factory-made smallbores and has a special valve to extract the maximum number of powerful shots per fill. It also has one of the largest air reservoirs on the market. A Condor can get about 20 shots on a single fill when the power is set to its maximum.
Stepping down in power to an Air Arms S410, you may get up to about 35 or even 45 shots on full power. The actual number depends on the distance at which you’re shooting and the velocity variation you can tolerate. Given that many shots, a hand pump may be a viable option for the shooter who is in shape, doesn’t mind a little work and takes a while to shoot all those shots.
But in 2008, Benjamin brought out the Discovery rifle. It’s a low-cost PCP that operates on just 2,000 psi. It’s much easier to fill from a hand pump than most of the guns on the market. The Discovery gets about 25 shots from its fill. Not only is the work easier, but there are also a decent number of shots when you’re done. The Discovery is a PCP that’s designed to be filled by a hand pump. But if you use a scuba tank to fill one, you’ll still be able to fill your Discovery all the way after other PCPs have drained the tank to the point that it needs to be refilled. That’s another bonus.
A scuba tankWe talk about scuba tanks as though they are all the same, and they aren’t. They come in different sizes and have different fill pressures, all of which affects the amount of air they contain. One very common scuba tank is an aluminum 80-cubic-foot tank. That means that the tank holds 80 cubic feet of air, not that the tank has an internal volume of 80 cubic feet. Since air compresses, what they are talking about is the number of cubic feet of air at sea-level pressure that is being filled into the tank. Since this particular scuba tank is rated to 3,000 psi, it can hold 80 cubic feet of sea-level air, when that air is compressed to 3,000 pounds per square inch (psi).
The pressure of air at sea level is about 14.56 psi. That number divides into 3,000 just about 206 times, so each cubic foot of air is being compressed about 206 times to get 80 of them into this scuba tank. By the way, that’s where the pressure unit bar comes from. So, 206 bar equal 3,000 psi.
There are other types of scuba tanks. I have a couple little ones that hold only 6 cubic feet of air at 3,000 psi. They’re used just to top off a gun during a match or when hunting. There are 120 cubic-foot, 3,500 psi steel tanks that aren’t much larger than an 80 cubic-foot aluminum tank. Because they’re steel, they hold higher pressure safely, so the same volume holds half again as much air (120 cubic-feet compared to 80 cubic-feet). I used to own a scuba tank that held air pressurized to only 2,200 psi. It was useless for filling most PCPs, with the exception of the Benjamin Discovery. So, don’t think that all scuba tanks are the same.
Carbon fiber tanksA carbon fiber tank is a breathing tank that is not for underwater. They’re used mostly by rescue workers such as firefighters. Like scuba tanks, they also come in sizes, although their fill pressures tend to not vary as much. An 88 cubic-foot, 4,500 psi carbon fiber tank holds only 8 cubic-feet more air than an 80 cubic-foot scuba tank, but it does so with a very important difference. Since the carbon fiber tank is pressurized to a higher level than a scuba tank, it has more high-pressure air available. Consequently, there are a great many more full fills for any given gun in one of these carbon fiber tanks than in a scuba tank. You might be able to fill a PCP to 3,000 psi two times from a 3,000 psi scuba tank, and after that the next fill might end at 2,975 psi. After that you’ll stop at 2,925 psi, then 2,850 psi and so on.
But, a carbon fiber tank that’s pressurized to 4,500 psi will continue to fill a PCP to 3,000 psi many times. Perhaps, as many as 18-20 times, depending on the gun. So, we say the carbon fiber tank has about nine times more full fills in it than in a typical scuba tank. That’s why the carbon fiber tank is so valuable.
Carbon fiber tanks have an aluminum bladder inside the carbon-fiber winding. Since the carbon fiber strengthens the bladder so much, the aluminum can be thinner and yet withstand even greater pressure. Therefore, an 88 cubic-foot carbon fiber tank weighs only about half as much as a scuba tank. That’s a lot more full fills for your guns at half the weight. What’s not to like? Well, there’s the additional cost of the more expensive carbon fiber tank; but if you can get past that, there are very few reasons not to get one.
Why higher air pressure doesn’t make your PCP shoot any fasterThink of a PCP gun as a car. Put in the correct fill, let’s say 3,000 psi, and the gun shoots fine. As the pressure drops it still shoots fine because that is how it is engineered to operate. Fill a car with gas and it will go far and fast. But, try though you might, you cannot put in five more gallons of gas than the tank is designed to hold. Even if you could, the car would still go the same speed. It’s not designed to go any faster.
Put a longer barrel on a PCP and it probably will shoot faster, just as taller tires will make a car go faster. But there are limits. Too long a barrel is ungainly, just as too-tall tires handle poorly.
How many shots can I get?This question commonly comes from someone who is looking at their first purchase of a PCP with the same enthusiasm as an insurance underwriter looks at smokers’ lives. Do you want the baritone to sing a moving song or are you just interested in how much of the alphabet he can burp?
What I mean by that is this. Shooting accurate shots is a goal. Hunting with clean kills is a goal. Shooting a PCP for as long as it will still poop out a pellet is a college prank. There’s no useful purpose to that number, but a nickel-sized 75-yard group is appreciated by everybody. Find out what the gun you want will really do by asking those who really do it on a regular basis. Forget the online wizards with their tin-can technology and witches-brew lubricants that promise you Nirvana for $89, plus shipping.
Now, it’s time for all of you readers who are prospective first-time buyers of precharged airguns to do your part. I really want to hear your questions about PCP guns, Don’t worry about embarrassing yourselves because you don’t know everything. Around here, we wait until you’re an old hand and comfortable with us before we start embarrassing you.
The 10mm Auto is an undeniably powerful round, born in the mid-1980s from disappointment with the perceived inadequate performance of the 9mm. The cartridge was designed from the ground up to have immense stopping power, and it would prove itself to be a capable performer in both self-defense and hunting applications.
But how powerful is it, exactly? We all hear about how terrific the 10mm is, but what if we perform a 10mm gel test to see what kind of penetration and expansion we can expect?
I decided to do just that, taking a Springfield Armory Range Officer Elite Operator 10mm 1911 and running three different full power 10mm loads through it and into ballistic gelatin. Check out my video above to see how it all did on the range.
Yamil used a Range Officer Elite Operator in 10mm for the ammo test.
For this 10mm ammo comparison, I selected three loads, all with bullets weighing 200 grains. These loads covered both high-performance 10mm self defense ammo as well as basic range ammunition. I tested Federal Personal Defense HST, Speer Gold Dot Personal Protection Gold Dot Hollowpoint, and CCI Blazer FMJ range ammunition. Both of the full power personal protection loads used proven hollowpoint bullet designs while the range load used a 10mm FMJ projectile.
The first load tested was Federal’s 200-gr. HST 10mm. Note the uniform expansion of the bullet recovered during penetration testing in ballistics gel.
10mm Ballistics Performance
I set up a 32″-deep batch of ballistic gelatin and set about running all three loads through the RO Elite Operator 10mm. I was very impressed with the performance of all three loads and found that the 10mm does really push out some power.
The author set up 32″ of ballistic gel for the testing.
Hollow Point vs. FMJ in Ballistics Gel
When testing 10mm penetration, both the Speer and Federal drove to roughly 18″ deep in the gelatin (within 1″ of each other), and expanded very nicely. These are both very powerful and effective rounds.
With the Blazer load, the FMJ punched clean through all 32″ of the gelatin, and impacted heavily on the safety berm behind it.
Excessive penetration is generally not preferred for defensive ammunition. While FMJ loads are great for paper targets, they simply do not expand in an attacker and will generally overpenetrate as this 10mm gel test shows.
Speer Gold Dot Personal Protection 200-gr. 10mm ammo was also tested. Like the HST, the 10mm Gold Dot bullet also showed excellent expansion in gel.
I also chronographed all three 200-gr. loads to see how they performed. The Federal HST came in at an average of 1,130 fps, the Speer Gold Dot at 1,100 fps, and the Blazer ammo at 1,030 fps.
Yamil also threw some Blazer 200-gr. FMJ ammo into the mix. When comparing self defense loads with FMJ, the ball rounds will almost always overpenetrate.
Conclusion
My test was intended to show 10mm ammunition performance and penetration, both full power self defense ammo and FMJ target ammunition.
The two hollowpoints expanded nicely and stopped at around 18″ of penetration. The FMJ round blasted through all 32″ of the gel.
I think that the results speak for themselves — the 10mm is an undeniably powerful round, and one that clearly will excel in both a hunting and self-defense role.
Editor’s Note: Please be sure to check out the new The Armory Life forum, where you can comment about our daily articles, as well as just talk guns and gear. Click the “Go To Forum Thread” link below to jump in!
Catching catfish with trotlines is very fun and a great way to provide family and friends with some of the best table fare there is. While many anglers have their go-to ways of catching catfish, there are several timeless tips and tricks out there that may lead to many more fish on your trotline than the next angler.
The first tip to catching catfish on a trotline would be to identify raises in the waterways you’re fishing. The shallower water that these raises may serve flatheads and other catfish subspecies very well as they pursue food at night. These fish tend to lay in deeper water and cover during the day and navigate into shallower, open water at night to feed.
The next tip would be to pay attention to the time of the year you’re fishing. The three times of the year to identify in your area are pre-spawn, spawn, and post-spawn. The spawn is when fish breed. However, different fish may spawn at different times of the year, so don’t confuse the report of someone fishing for spawning bass or crappie with when the catfish may be spawning. When catfish spawn, many of them tend to stay very close to, if not hovering over a bed. This fixes their focus more on breeding and reproducing than feeding, making them harder to catch on a trotline.
Take the state of Kentucky, for example. Catfish in the state of Kentucky tend to spawn in the month of June. Some of the most successful catfishing anglers may fish up to Memorial Day and then back off of setting trot lines in the month of June. Then, around 4th of July, it’s a great time to get your trotlines back in the water.
A final trick that can prove to produce high yields of catfish is to target flathead catfish in the fall when they are heavily feeding to prepare for winter. Months such as September and October, throughout most parts of the U.S., can prove to be very good months to set trotlines. Especially, for flatheads.
What You Need to Build a Trotline
Building a trotline for catfishing can prove to be a relatively simple way to catch a large amount of catfish with minimal effort. The supplies required to build your own trotline can all be acquired at Walmart and are relatively affordable for the yield of catfish they can all provide. Trotline supplies include:
Main Line – A roll of Hard Nylon Line (#36)
Drop Lines (The lines going from your main line to your hooks) – A roll of Hard Nylon Line (#18)
Fishing Swivels – Requires 2 Swivels Per Drop Line
Catfish Hooks – Requires 1 per Drop Line; Get as big as size 8/0 for bigger catfish like flatheads and blue cats and as small as size 1/0 for smaller breeds like channel or mud catfish
Trotline Clips – Used to attach angler information for legality purposes or for attaching weights throughout the trotline to maximize the amount of submersion
Line Winder – Serves to wind up a trotline in an organized manner
How to Build a Trotline:
How many hooks should you put on a trotline?
How long does a trotline need to be?
How do you assemble a trotline?
How do you weigh down a trotline?
The first question you need to answer is: How long should my trotline be? To answer this question, you will need to do some scouting. If you’re going to drop your trotline in a big body of water like a lake or reservoir, you may want to tie off to a couple of trees sticking up in shallow water. In this case, your trotline should be long enough to span the distance between the trees. If you’re dropping the trotline in a river, you need to know where you want to fish. Catfish like creeks and rivers with shallow flats next to deeper water. In many cases, these flats run along the bank for short distances. You may need a short trotline in this case. Other times, you may want to go bank to bank and, in these cases, you will need a longer trotline.
Next, you need to know how many hooks to tie to your trotline. The general rule of thumb is to have a hook every six feet. This will give you good coverage, but hooks will not be so close that they tangle up when a hooked catfish starts thrashing. Check the regulations for the lake and state you fish in. In many cases, there are limits on the number of hooks a trotline can have. Also, most states require trotlines to have a form of identification to indicate who owns the trotline. Make sure your trotline is tagged appropriately.
The easiest way to assemble your trotline is to tie your mainline between two trees. Next, tie your 24-inch drop line to the mainline every six feet. After you tie each dropline, go ahead and tie the swivels and hook to the dropline. Some anglers prefer two swivels per dropline and others use one swivel — the choice is yours. Once you are done, wind it up and you’re ready for the water. If you have time and are fishing areas with little traffic, you can do all this at the actual location. Once you’re on the water, simply tie off the main line, tie your drop lines and hooks and then bait as you go.
To sink your trotline to the bottom, you will need to tie weights to your trotline. Most anything will work for a weight. Rocks and coffee cans full of cement are often used. Tie enough weights to get to the depth you need. Generally, there is a heavy weight in the middle and several others on either side. Keep in mind the more weight you have, the more weight you’re pulling up when checking the trotline.
How to Set a Trotline
Your overall setup will only be as good as where you place the trotline and how well you fasten it to each end’s anchor. The following steps serve as a great baseline to properly setup your trotline:
Identify solid anchor points to tie the trotline to on each side of the body of water you’re fishing. Solid tree roots, green bushes, or fallen timber are great things to search for first.
Tie each end of the trotline to the identified anchor points.
Begin on any side of the trotline and place your drop lines on the main line and bait each hook as you assemble the drop lines. As you progress across the trotline, fasten weights to any points on the main line that will help to properly submerge the main line. Continue fastening the drop lines and weights to the other end of the trotline.
Best Bait to Use on a Trotline
When it comes to catching catfish on a trotline, your trotline will only be as attractive as the bait you put on each hook. It is important to know that different subspecies of catfish prefer different types of food. Knowing which subspecies of catfish you’re targeting will help you determine what type of bait to use on your trotline. Some subspecies of catfish prefer live bait, while others prefer lifeless bait.
Questions that may lead you to choosing the best bait for catfish in your water are:
What kind of catfish are in the water I’m fishing?
Of those types of catfish, which ones am I targeting?
Best Live Bait to Use on a Trotline
When targeting flathead or channel catfish, live bait can prove to be the most effective.
Best Cut Bait and Artificial Bait to Use on a Trotline
When targeting blue catfish or channel catfish, freshly cut parts of dead fish work best, followed by any types of dead bait or “stink catfish baits.”
Best Hooks to Use on a Trotline
The best hook to use on a trotline is directly correlated with the size and species of catfish you’re targeting and the size of the bait being used on the trotline. When targeting smaller sizes and species of catfish, such as channel catfish or mud catfish, you may look toward a smaller J-Style hook such as sizes 1/0 or 2/0 hooks. As the catfish size and species you’re targeting get larger, so will the size of your hook. When targeting big catfish such as blue catfish or flathead catfish, you should start getting closer to a size 8/0 hook.
Kayaking has been a part of the human story for thousands of years. Developed by Inuit people for fishing and transportation, kayaking is now an increasingly popular mode of recreation. Similar to canoeing, kayaking offers an active way to get out on the water and intimately enjoy the outdoors.
The growing interest in recreational kayaking is a direct result of the activity’s many benefits and widespread appeal. Kayaking offers a satisfying combination of physical exercise and the grace-filled sensation of being in sync with the stillness and flow of water.
On a clear and windless morning, the experience of slicing quietly across the surface of the water as you repeatedly dip and retract your paddle is simply glorious.
For beginner paddlers interested in purchasing a kayak of their own and advancing their skills, the kayak market can seem complicated. Although kayaking requires various pieces of gear (a paddle and a personal flotation device), a reliable entry-level kayak is the most important item that a beginner will need.
There are many different types and styles of kayaks, each designed for a specific purpose and to best suit a specific kind of paddler. Some categories beginners should be aware of include sit-in kayaks, sit-on-top kayaks, inflatable kayaks, tandem kayaks, and folding kayaks.
Because there are several categories, we’ve chosen the best kayaks in each category to help find the best kayak for you. Be sure to read our buyers guide and our comparison chart to better inform your decision. Scroll through to view our picks for the best beginner kayak, or jump to a category below:
Best Sit-On-Top Kayak
Best Sit-In Kayak
Best Budget Kayak
Best Tandem Kayak
Best Pedal Kayak
Best Inflatable Kayak
Best Folding Kayak
Best Kayak for Kids
Our how-to guide at the end of the list also provides answers to frequently asked questions and all the information you’ll need to select the best kayak for your adventures.
Best Sit-On-Top Kayak: Wilderness Systems Tarpon 105
The Tarpon 105 kayak from Wilderness Systems ($1,119) is our pick for the best kayak in the sit-on-top category. As a recreational kayak, the Tarpon 105 offers impressive versatility and can perform well when used for various activities such as fishing, camping, exploring, bird-watching, and even surfing waves.
For those looking to own a single kayak that is both beginner-friendly and adaptable, the Wilderness Systems Tarpon 105 is a wise choice. The newest version of the tried-and-true Tarpon is the Tarpon 105. This updated model builds on the success of previous Tarpon iterations and comes with more features than ever before.
Thanks to Wilderness Systems’ careful attention to detail and function-forward mindset, it’s fully stocked the Tarpon 105 with various features for on-the-water support — no matter what your favorite kayak-based activity is. In flatwater or flowing creeks and rivers, this kayak is sporty, stable, and downright fun.
For fishing purposes, the Tarpon 105 is compatible with fishing pole holders, GPS units, and fishfinder screens. Relative to similar boats, the Tarpon 105 is very stable and can maneuver easily through tight coves and sharp bends.
At 10.5 feet long, the Tarpon 105 is shorter and stubbier than many sit-on-top kayaks. Because of its shape, this boat is not especially fast, nor does it glide through the water outstandingly well.
Simply put, the Tarpon 105 was built for stable cruising and not for speedy racing. For a similar option that is also longer and faster, check out the Tarpon 120.
The 105’s flat hull allows the boat to turn quickly and easily. While paddling, the entire boat changes direction smoothly and with minimal effort.
For long kayaking sessions, the Tarpon 105 is built with Wilderness Systems’ exceptionally comfortable Phase 3 AirPro seating system. The thoughtfully contoured backrest is ergonomic and supportive — crucial traits for a long day on the water.
The Tarpon 105’s impressively long list of well-considered features includes large waterproof storage wells, a magnetic water bottle strap system, a built-in paddle holder, rigid carry handles, and a dog-friendly deck so you can bring your pup on board.
Paddlers who wish to prioritize stability and comfort over speed would do well with the Tarpon 105. Its shorter length gives the Tarpon a boost in portability, and at 55 pounds, it can be carried around without too much trouble.
Although a bit on the more expensive side at around $1,079, the Tarpon 105’s feature-packed, durable design makes it a good-value buy. A versatile kayak that doesn’t sacrifice fun or comfort, the Tarpon 105 is our choice for the best sit-on-top kayak.
Weight: 55 lbs.
Length: 10’6″
Pros:
Comfortable seat
Easy to climb in and out of, even while out on the water
Makes smooth turns, impressively maneuverable
Useful for lots of activities
Packed with thoughtful features
Cons:
Glides slowly
More expensive than other options
Check Price at REICheck Price at Backcountry
Best Sit-In Kayak: Old Town Manitou Sport
The Old Town Manitou Sport sit-in kayak ($850) is an excellent do-it-all kayak for beginners and seasoned paddlers alike. Originally designed by Necky Kayaks, which is now part of the Old Town brand, the Manitou Sport is a simple craft that offers stability and maneuverability above all else.
Except for technical whitewater, the Manitou Sport performs well on most water bodies including lakes, rivers, creeks, and bays. A 26.5-inch hull makes this kayak incredibly stable. Its 10’11” length offers a functional balance between smooth tracking and nimble maneuverability.
On open water, the Manitou Sport can handle plenty of speed. It also responds well to sharp turns in tight areas thanks to its extended keel. It’s difficult to find a kayak that shines in so many areas of performance.
Although this boat doesn’t quite offer enough storage space for overnight trips, there is plenty of room for a day trip’s worth of gear. Bow and stern deck rigging lets you secure equipment to the top of the boat, and a dry storage area provides reliable waterproofing.
Adjustable foot pedals and a comfortable seating system make it easy to sit in the boat for hours without becoming stiff or sore.
Overall, the Old Town Manitou Sport is easy to love. Its large cockpit is effortless to climb in and out of, and toggle handles allow comfortable two-person carrying of the kayak from the car to the water and back again.
At $850, this kayak is an excellent value, especially because it comes with a Carlisle Magic Mystic paddle. Old Town built the Manitou Sport to maximize recreational fun on the water, and it delivers with style.
Weight: 44 lbs.
Length: 10’11”
Pros:
Durable and lightweight
Comes with a paddle
Good balance of graceful tracking and responsive maneuverability
High-volume bow cuts through choppy water with ease
Comfortable cockpit and seat
Good value
Cons:
Not ideal for open ocean or whitewater
Not very practical for fishing
Check Price at REI
Best Budget: Intex Challenger K1
The Intex Challenger K1 inflatable kayak (on sale for $95) is our pick for the best budget kayak available in 2022. With a normal price tag of $170, this boat is far cheaper than other options on this list. For the money, it’s an excellent value that is more than capable of providing many hours of on-the-water fun.
For a cheap kayak, the Challenger K1 handles impressively well on the water. In general, the entire boat rides low, which makes it quite stable and less vulnerable to being pushed around by the wind.
A long skeg helps the K1 track decently well in a straight line. At 9 feet long and 2.5 feet wide, the K1 has a short, stubby profile that turns and steers well.
One downside of the craft’s low profile is the resulting high likelihood of taking on water. The K1 does not have a scupper hole, so to drain any excess water, you’ll have to paddle to shore and flip the entire thing upside down.
The inflatable seat is decently comfortable, and we like that it is both removable and adjustable. On the boat’s upper deck, a cargo net provides a small amount of gear storage. There is not enough space for camping gear, but the net can easily handle a water bottle, a small tackle box, and some snacks.
Intex claims that the K1 is made from venture-resistant vinyl. However, users should take care to keep the boat away from sharp objects — in use and in storage.
Two separate air chambers are quick to inflate. But because there are only two chambers, it’s important to wear a personal flotation device when using this kayak. If one of the chambers pops, the remaining chamber will not provide much buoyancy in an emergency.
The K1 comes with an 84-inch aluminum oar, a repair patch, a carrying duffel, and an inflation pump. To set up the boat, simply inflate both chambers until the included gauge tells you that the boat is good to go.
When your paddling session is over, dry the boat with a towel and fold it back into its carrying duffel. When packed down, the boat and all of its components can be easily stored in a closet or garage.
All things considered, the Intex K1 challenger is a good purchase for paddlers in need of an affordable vessel and who are more concerned about fun than performance. This is not the kayak that will best suit advanced paddlers with racing or expeditionary aspirations. For a day of summer fun, though, the K1 is a wonderful and portable addition to your kit.
Weight: 23.9 lbs.
Length: 9′
Pros:
Affordable
Packs down into an included duffel bag
Comes with a paddle and pump
Tracks and steers well
Removable and adjustable seat
Cons:
No drain plug
Not the most durable
Included pump inflates slowly
Check Price at AmazonCheck Price at Walmart
Best Tandem Kayak: Advanced Elements Advanced Frame Convertible
The Advanced Elements Convertible Tandem Kayak ($980) is a high-performance inflatable kayak that can be paddled by either one or two people. Although a bit on the more expensive side for an inflatable kayak, the Advanced Elements is comfortable, durable, and thoroughly packed with practical features.
Depending on how you set up the seats, this kayak can be either a tandem or a single kayak. Its 550-pound capacity is plenty to accommodate two paddlers plus additional gear.
Tiedown points, bungees, and integrated pockets offer adequate storage for quite a lot of gear. This kayak could feasibly be used for overnight expeditions — especially when configured for a single paddler.
When paddling the Advanced Elements Convertible Tandem, it’s easy to forget that you’re in an inflatable vessel. Impressively, this boat handles more like a rigid-sided kayak. Plus, it offers supreme durability with three outer layers of ripstop material.
At 15 feet long, the relatively narrow 32-inch hull provides excellent tracking without giving up too much stability. Multiple tracking fins and a small skeg contribute to a smooth, straight, and speedy ride.
In tandem mode, this kayak has ample space for both paddlers to move freely without getting in each other’s way. High seatbacks offer sufficient back support and remain comfortable throughout a full day on the water.
The low-lying seats keep your center of gravity close to the water while paddling. This configuration reduces wind resistance and keeps the boat from feeling tippy.
Inflating and setting up the AE Convertible tandem takes some getting used to. A thorough set of instructions is included, but you will still need to practice a few times before setting it up feels efficient.
Six air chambers can be pumped up, although only three of these are important for structural integrity. Each chamber has specific pressure requirements.
Be sure to be careful when inflating because it can be easy to over or underfill. The kayak does not come with paddles or a pump.
Overall, this is a hefty inflatable tandem that in many ways feels more like a solid plastic boat than an inflatable one. Its bulk may be a downside for some users — it’s difficult to pack into its duffel and carry on your own.
However, on the performance side, this kayak shines and offers tracking and speed that most other inflatable tandems cannot. It’s not cheap, but because it’s built to last, it’s our pick for the best tandem kayak of 2022.
Weight: 52 lbs.
Length: 15′
Pros:
Durable
Capacity of 550 lbs.
Can be used as a single boat or a tandem
Tracks well
Handles speed with ease
Ample storage space
Cons:
Heavy
More expensive than other options
Setup is difficult, especially with just one person
Check Price at REICheck Price at L.L.Bean
Best Pedal Kayak: Hobie Mirage Passport 10.5 R
Hobie has been making kayaks for over 20 years. This model ($1,799) is one of its newer ones, released in 2022. We loved the previous version of this kayak, and the updated model maintains the tried-and-true design while adding a new rotomolded hull construction.
Pedal kayaks have lots of pros. Generally, they are equipped with a few more accessory features and have more room for gear storage. And, of course, they allow you to paddle hands free. Fishing, bird-watching, photography, you name it — there are lots of great applications here.
The Hobie Mirage Passport 10.5 R offers great tracking in the water, whether the weight on board is 150 or 200 pounds. The Mirage Glide technology refers to the fins, pedal, and rudder components.
This kayak has a stowable rudder with steering control located by your left hand next to the seat. The Hobie is a bit wider than standard kayaks to accommodate the seat and steering control, although it only measures 34 inches across.
You may have noticed the aluminum frame seat. Pro: It’s way more comfortable than standard kayak seats. Con: It adds some weight.
If you are doing overnight paddles, or even day touring for hours on end, a comfortable seat is worth it. Even with the extra weight of this kayak, it’s balanced well and feels really streamlined moving through the water.
The Passport 10.5 R has kick-up fins that automatically recess. How cool is that? Whether you are paddling in shallow waters or encountering logs or obstacles, the kick-up fins will automatically recess upon impact to protect both you and your equipment.
Other features on this kayak include an 8-inch twist-and-seal hatch for storing gear, as well as two cargo storage areas with bungee straps on the bow and stern. If you are using this kayak for fishing or touring, storage is important.
There’s plenty of space on this boat to store rods, a tackle kit, dry bags, a small cooler, camera equipment, or anything else you may want to bring along.
Pedal/fishing kayaks can run up to $5,000. This Hobie cat model is a great-quality kayak at a great price, especially if you’re looking to pedal. This kayak comes with a two-piece aluminum paddle.
Rod mounts and accessories to personalize your kayak
Kick-up/retractable fins
Good price
High-tech rotomolded construction
Cons:
Lots of individual components
Heavier than most other kayaks on this list
Check Price at Hobie
Best Inflatable Kayak: Kokopelli Moki-Lite
Made for touring across flat water, the Kokopelli Moki-Lite inflatable kayak ($699) is portable, easy to set up, and impressively lightweight. This watercraft is ideal for paddlers who are looking for a simple and high-quality boat for recreational paddling.
Compared to other inflatable kayaks, we appreciate how easily the Moki-Lite transitions from fully deflated to water-ready. In less than 10 minutes, this kayak’s floor and side tubes can be filled with air and launched onto the water. When you’re done paddling, the boat deflates and folds into its roomy river bag for easy transport.
The 1,000-denier reinforced PVC drop-stitch floor is fully rigid when pumped up and is abrasion-resistant. Additionally, the EVA seat is low-profile and relatively comfortable to sit in.
A removable 9-inch tracking fin helps the Moki-Lite track smoothly. The entire kayak is just 10 feet long, and this short length results in high-performance maneuverability.
The kayak comes with a four-piece alpine lake paddle, carry bag, Nano Barrel pump, tracking fin, and repair kit. For a streamlined and sporty-looking inflatable kayak, it doesn’t get much better than the Kokopelli Moki-Lite.
Weight: 17 lbs., 3.2 oz.
Length: 10′
Pros:
Lightweight
High-quality 1,000D outer material
Good tracking with 9″ fin attached
Easy to set up and pack down
Cons:
Not a lot of cargo space
Check Price at KokopelliCheck Price at Amazon
Best Folding Kayak: Oru Inlet
For those living in tight quarters, folding kayaks offer all of the benefits of owning your own watercraft without the need for a large storage space. Whether you live in a van or a studio apartment, the Oru Inlet folding kayak ($999) is a brilliant tool that can go with you anywhere.
Compared to the often-convoluted process of inflating a kayak, the Inlet’s origami-like folding assembly is as simple as snapping a few clips and slipping into the cockpit. Oru claims that the Inlet can be set up in 3 minutes, a bold statement that has been verified by several owners and testers.
When it’s all folded up, the Oru Inlet can be slung over a single shoulder for effortless carrying. After all, it weighs only 20 pounds.
While the folds in the kayak do create weaknesses in the 5mm double-layered polypropylene exterior, the Inlet has been manufacturer-rated for 20,000 fold cycles. The hull’s 30-inch width provides enough stability for beginner paddlers to feel comfortable, and also makes it ideal for fishing.
At $999, the Inlet is cheaper than other offerings from Oru, although it’s still expensive compared to many kayaks on this list. The ideal user is someone who enjoys mellow on-the-water excursions and really wants to prioritize easy storage and compact gear.
The cockpit is large enough to store a small dry bag or a bit of fishing gear. However, there probably isn’t enough room for overnight gear, and there is no waterproof cargo area.
Although this is certainly a niche kayak, it easily earns its place on this list of best beginner kayaks. With the Oru Inlet, the entire user experience is defined by simplicity.
It’s simple to set up, simple to paddle, and efficient enough for regular use. With the Oru Inlet, limited gear storage space will no longer keep you from getting out to paddle.
Weight: 20 lbs.
Length: 10′
Pros:
Super light
Easy to set up and fold down
When folded up, the kayak can be carried with a simple shoulder strap
Padded seat
Open cockpit is simple to enter and exit
Beginner-friendly
Cons:
Maximum weight capacity of 275 lbs.
Expensive
Does not track especially well
Check Price at AmazonCheck Price at Oru Kayak
Best Kayak for Kids: Perception Hi Five
Part stand-up paddleboard and part kayak, the Hi Five watercraft from Perception ($299) is all about fun on the water, which makes it our pick for the best kayak for kids.
The Hi Five is sized to perfectly suit kids up to 120 pounds. At just 6 feet long and 2 feet wide, this small kayak fits easily into most hatchbacks and roof racks.
Its unique design integrates the seat and other features into one continuous piece of polyethylene plastic that weighs just 24 pounds. Because the entire boat is one solid piece, there are very few ways a user can break or damage the Hi Five.
People with kids will know that the ability to withstand rough handling is an asset of any piece of kids’ gear, and the Hi Five is fully up to the task.
On the Hi Five’s stern, a flat swim-up deck allows for swimmers to easily climb aboard. Other clever features include a paddle rest, a large standing surface, and ergonomic grab handles. All of these features come in handy during blissful hours of family time on the water.
Additionally, the Hi Five is specifically designed to keep working as kids grow, making it a good long-term investment that can stay with you for many years.
For maximum safety, the Hi Five is super stable. It comes with a hitch-and-tether system so mom or dad can tow the boat when the smallest paddler in the family gets tired.
For $300 with a kid-size paddle included, the Hi Five can offer many years of joy and paddling progression. From rivers to creeks to small backyard ponds, the Perception Hi Five is a standout kids’ kayak.
Weight: 21 lbs.
Length: 6′
Pros:
Good value
Entire watercraft is one durable piece of molded plastic
Progression-focused
Lightweight and easy to transport
Cons:
Not the most comfortable seat
Check Price at Amazon
Beginner Kayak Comparison Chart
Wilderness Systems Tarpon 105Old Town Manitou SportIntex Challenger K1Advanced Elements Advanced Frame ConvertibleHobie Mirage Passport 10.5 RKokopelli Moki-LiteOru InletPerception Hi Five
Why You Should Trust Us
We compiled this list of kayaks with beginner paddlers in mind. The GearJunkie team has plentiful paddling experience, are we’re also keenly familiar with the kayak market. The boats on this list are user-friendly, approachable, and progression-focused.
Not all beginners will need the same kind of kayak, so we carefully considered dozens of boats and highlighted the best options in several categories. In every category, our recommended kayak had to beat out several other models to earn its place.
To identify our top picks, we considered overall value, usability, build quality, durability, and much more. We examined materials, studied brands, and compared pricetags down to the last detail.
As new kayaks hit the market, we’ll be sure to test them in consideration for this list. At any given time, our roundup will include the best of the best.
Beginners’ Buyers Guide for Kayaks: How to Choose
Before you purchase a beginner-level kayak, you first need to determine what type of kayaking you want to do. There are lots of well-made and high-quality kayak brands, and most brands offer options for a wide range of paddling pursuits. Once you know what kind of attributes you are looking for in a kayak, it will become much easier to choose.
If you want a kayak for mellow cruising on a backyard pond or small lake, you do not want to purchase a sea kayak that is made for slicing through big waves. Similarly, if you need a kayak that will be easy to transport, you don’t want to purchase something bulky and heavy.
There are a few key things to consider when deciding what your kayaking needs really are. There are many unique categories of kayaks, and each category has its own strengths and drawbacks.
In this buyer’s guide, we will provide information about many of these categories, including sit-on kayaks, sit-in kayaks, tandem kayaks, recreational kayaks, day touring kayaks, inflatable kayaks, folding kayaks, pedal-powered kayaks, and whitewater kayaks.
Once you have identified which category best fits your needs and plans, other important considerations to keep in mind include material, weight, capacity, durability, and price. Purchasing the right kayak can feel confusing, but with the use of this in-depth guide, we hope you’ll be able to identify the right kayak to buy.
Types of Kayaks
Sit-on-Top Kayaks
Sit-on-top kayaks do not have an internal, hollowed-out cockpit that you have to climb into. Instead, this style of kayak allows you to sit right on top of the boat, where your legs will be exposed to the open air.
Sit-on-top kayaks tend to be easier to get on and off of than sit-in kayaks. Also, sit-on-top kayaks tend to feel more stable than sit-ins, especially for new paddlers who are getting used to the water.
Sit-on-top kayaks are good for warm weather because the user is likely to get wet. This style of kayak is also better for users who plan to paddle with a dog on board.
(Photo/Amazon)
Sit-In Kayaks
Sit-in kayaks have an internal cockpit that you have to climb into to paddle. When paddling a sit-in kayak, you will have a low center of gravity and the rotation of your hips will be more involved in steering the boat.
Some sit-in kayaks that are built for whitewater paddling utilize spray skirts that cover the cockpit to prevent water from getting inside. Sit-in kayak users will experience less wind resistance than sit-on-top kayakers.
Tandem Kayaks
Tandem kayaks are paddled by two people at once. To allow this, these boats are usually longer than single-user boats and include two seats instead of one.
Tandem boats can be inflatable or made of solid material. The process of learning how to paddle in sync with your partner can be a fun and tricky challenge.
(Photo/REI)
Recreational Kayaks
When a kayak is labeled “recreational,” that means it’s built to prioritize fun over high-end performance. Recreational kayaks will not be the fastest or lightest boats on the market, but they will include practical features that maximize comfort and allow you to enjoy your paddling experience.
Day Touring Kayaks
Day touring kayaks are meant for single-day excursions. These boats lack adequate storage space for overnight trips or expeditions. Often, day touring kayaks are simple and user-friendly vessels built for a quick session on the water.
Inflatable Kayaks
Inflatable kayaks are filled with air like a balloon and can be deflated when not in use. For users who do not have enough storage space to keep a rigid plastic kayak at home, an inflatable kayak can be a fantastic solution.
Inflatable kayaks typically have multiple compartments that must all be pumped full of air before use. This list includes both single-user and tandem inflatable kayaks that we recommend.
Folding Kayaks
In recent years, many folding lightweight kayaks have entered the market. These boats aim to maximize portability for kayakers who don’t have a lot of available storage space in their lives.
Folding kayaks require some practice to assemble and set up properly. Although folding kayaks tend not to be as durable on the water as solid plastic kayaks, they tend to be more lightweight than any other category of kayaks.
Pedal Kayaks
Pedal-powered kayaks do not require a paddle to move about the water. Instead, these kayaks are operated using your legs, either by pushing or rotating the pedals to generate thrust. This style of kayak is excellent for fishing because the foot pedals leave your hands free to cast out and tend to your fishing rod.
Whitewater Kayaks
Whitewater kayaks are made to maneuver through fast-flowing water. Whitewater kayaks are almost always sit-in kayaks, with a short length and minimal storage space. Most whitewater kayaks utilize a spray skirt to keep water out of the cockpit.
Kayak Features
Material vs. Weight
Most kayaks on market these days are made of solid plastic, inflatable abrasion-resistant PVC, thin foldable plastic, or fiberglass. Different materials work well for different functions.
Solid plastic boats tend to be the most durable. Inflatable PVC and foldable plastic are lighter and easier to pack down and store in a small space.
If you plan on paddling with a dog on board, it may be wise to steer clear of inflatable kayaks that can be punctured. Solid plastic kayaks tend to be heavier than inflatable and foldable kayaks. (And obviously, tandem kayaks are heavier than single kayaks.)
If you plan to kayak alone and need to load and unload your kayak from your car on your own, it is wise to purchase a lighter kayak that you can easily carry. Or, get a kayak dolly. Kayaks on this list vary widely by weight, so be sure to check the kayak’s weight before purchasing.
(Photo/REI)
Capacity
The majority of brands measure kayak capacity by weight. Before you purchase a kayak, make sure that the boat will be able to accommodate the total weight of the anticipated user (plus the weight of any gear). It’s good to stay on the conservative side of a boat’s capacity limit to ensure that it will perform safely and as intended.
Durability
Kayaks are built to be durable, but not all boats are created equal. Inflatable watercraft tend to be less durable than solid plastic ones because they are vulnerable to punctures.
To maximize the longevity of your kayak’s life, be careful not to drag it along jagged rocks during loading and unloading. When storing your kayak, be sure to keep it out of the full sun and away from potentially harmful objects and substances. And of course, always follow PSI recommendations to prevent overinflation.
Price
It’s wise to decide on a specific budget before you begin the actual shopping process. Kayaks vary in price a lot, and high-end options can be very expensive.
Still, it’s very possible to find a fairly priced kayak that offers excellent value for the money. If you are considering buying a kayak for yourself and your partner, you’ll also want to weigh the options of buying two kayaks versus buying a tandem.
FAQ
What is the best type of kayak for beginners?
We recommend all of the kayaks on this list to beginner paddlers. Ultimately, the best kayak will be the one that meets your individual needs and helps you progress as a paddler. Depending on your lifestyle, storage space, preferred paddling location, and other factors, some kayaks will suit you better than others.
What size kayak is best for beginners?
There are kayaks of all shapes and sizes on the market. The size and shape of kayaks vary depending on their intended function. Beginner kayaks tend to be between 9 and 12 feet long and 2 to 3 feet wide.
Long, thin kayaks are built for going fast in a straight line and cutting through choppy water and waves. Short, stubby kayaks are made to be nimble and easy to turn in fast-moving streams and whitewater. Many of the kayaks on this list are midsize to provide a good balance between smooth tracking and maneuverability.
Most kayaks — regardless of their size or shape — can accommodate paddlers of various heights and weights. Before purchasing a kayak, check to make sure it can accommodate a paddler of your size.
Which is better: sit-on-top kayaks or sit-in kayaks?
Neither kayak style is strictly better — they simply have different strengths and weaknesses.
A sit-on-top kayak is easier to climb in and out of, especially while out on the water. Sit-on-top kayaks also tend to be better for kayaking with a dog on board. Overall, sit-on-top kayaks tend to be more comfortable for long paddling sessions, as they allow the user to stretch their legs and move around.
Sit-in kayaks keep the paddler’s center of gravity low, which decreases wind residence and creates superior maneuverability. In colder or rainy weather, sit-in kayaks allow the user to stay fairly dry, especially with the use of a spray skirt.
What size kayak should I get for my height?
Most kayaks are made to accommodate people of a wide range of heights. Many recreational kayaks for beginners are around 10 feet long and will be suitable in size for most adults up to 6 feet tall. For those taller than 6 feet, a recreational kayak around 12 feet long will likely be a better fit.
It can be helpful to test a kayak’s size by sitting in it before purchasing. Make sure there’s enough legroom and your hips fit comfortably in the seat and cockpit. Many kayaks have multiple or adjustable footrests to accommodate paddlers with shorter or longer legs.
(Photo/Amazon)
What length paddle do I need?
Having a properly sized paddle can make all the difference. When deciding on the length of your paddle, you must consider both your own height and the width of your kayak. Generally, the wider the kayak is, the longer paddle you’ll need to ensure that the sides of the boat won’t get in the way of the paddle blades entering the water.
Most of the beginner kayaks on this list are between 24 and 32 inches wide. So, here is a basic guideline for how to size kayak paddles for kayaks that are between 24 and 32 inches wide.
Paddlers under 5’5” should use a paddle that’s about 220 cm in length. Folks between 5’5” and 5’11” should use a paddle that’s about 240 cm in length. Paddlers over 5’11” should use a paddle that’s around 250 cm in length.
Adjustable paddles are a good idea for those who will not be able to test out their paddles before purchase. Adjustable paddles are also great as they divide into pieces for storage and travel.
Have a favorite kayak? Let us know in the comments, and we’ll check it out for future updates to this article.
As of 2022, Nikon is no longer in the rifle scope business.
Nikon wanted to distance itself from the hunting and weapons crowd, focusing on more consumer-friendly products and multi-purpose range finders.
It makes sense to discontinue their entry-level and mid-level range of scopes despite being a very profitable market.
This allows the company to divert its focus to its main product: cameras. Still, they will not leave the outdoor community entirely.
They will simply no longer carry weapon-mounted sights.
Is It Impossible to Buy Rifle Scopes?
While you can’t order Nikon’s scopes straight from the company, you can still buy any unsold models from a registered Nikon optics dealer.
Nikon migrated all their supply to third-party resellers to get rid of their current stock..
I’ve had to buy some Nikon scopes from outside sellers; fortunately, they still work as if they were brand new.
Once their supply has been exhausted, no new sniper scope will be made available.
Why Has Nikon Stopped Making Rifle Scopes?
In 2019, Nikon announced that it would leave the rifle scope market completely, selling off its remaining rifle scope line products to companies on its Focused Dealer Direct Program.
This shift in the distribution model from the traditional wholesale supply chain to the registered dealer-only program is one of two factors cited by a Nikon rep for the company’s departure from the rifle scope business.
Aside from open supply chain issues, the Nikon rep named the market itself and the fact that Nikon wanted to distance itself from it as one of the two factors that caused the company to abandon the line.
Sniping products have brought great shares to the company, but their scope lines have been making less and less money through the years as the competition grows fiercer.
The company had also received negative publicity over the use of its products in big game hunting.
This cuts into their bottom line and affects the sale of their other, more lucrative products.
These factors have led to the company’s internal decision to discontinue the production and distribution of weapon-mounted products.
How Does This Affect Current Nikon Scope Owners?
Nikon migrated their remaining stock of entry-level and mid-level range scopes to their accredited companies for reselling.
The company sees that focusing on more profitable product families makes sense.
I know I felt disappointed about this as I loved using Nikon’s scopes in the past.
Don’t worry, though. Fans of Nikon-produced optic products need not feel abandoned.
Plenty of companies still carry any needed replacement parts, and the company promises to honor customer commitments.
Still, it will take loyal users some adjustments as they look for different scope brands moving forward.
It’s unfortunate that many fans have sworn off Nikon because of this perceived betrayal.
Can I Still Buy Nikon Rifle Scopes?
The shift from the traditional wholesale supply chain distribution model to the registered dealer-only program has forced Nikon to cut its losses and return to cameras.
This, plus their effort to clean up their image and deviate from an extremely competitive industry, means that their sporting optics division (binoculars, spotting scopes, etc.) will be left without a rifle scope.
Thanks to the focused Dealer Direct Program, you can still find, and buy, any Nikon product you need!
That said, Nikon abruptly changed course without recalling and disposing of every rifle scope.
There is still PLENTY of current inventory available at any registered Nikon optics dealer.
You can find and purchase Nikon scope models and accessories through third-party sources.
If you don’t think Nikon scopes are for you, there are a lot of other scopes at affordable prices for you to check out!
Do Nikon Scopes Have a Lifetime Warranty?
While it may be impossible for hunters to look forward to a new rifle scope line from Nikon, warranty worries should be the least concern for long-time Nikon users.
The company has promised to continue offering and honoring lifetime warranties for any Nikon-produced scope.
Though Nikon does not plan on returning to the rifle scope business, it does plan to take care of any users who enjoy its extremely competitive rifle scopes.
The company announced that their rifle scopes are covered by a five-year limited lifetime warranty.
That gives me some reassurance, at least!
Fortunately, one of my Nikon scopes was still covered by the warranty, so no harm done despite the discontinuation of their scopes.
It encourages these scope users to continue using Nikon’s spotting scopes, cameras, and other shooting equipment.
Nikon Alternatives to Consider
Since Nikon is no longer in the rifle scope market, there are other brands you can turn to instead.
These brands work just as well as Nikon’s scopes, so you can’t go wrong with these alternative brands.
1. Leupold
Leupold is known for offering rifle scopes with high durability and affordable pricing.
My experience with Leupold scopes has been nothing but enjoyable, from their SUPER clear optics and ruggedness.
You can definitely trust this brand as it’s been in the business for over 100 years! They definitely know what they’re doing.
2. Vortex Optics
Vortex is one of the newer kids on the block, but their scopes have Leupold and Nikon beat in the pricing department.
You get EXCELLENT quality with contrasting colors and you don’t have to spend a fortune!
Plus, they also come with a lifetime warranty, so you have nothing to worry about.
3. Bushnell
Bushnell is another TOP-TIER company that produces precision optics that are great for large and small game.
And it’s not just scopes!
If you want to expand your outdoor gear, you can find high-quality red dots, rangefinders, and spotting scopes
Final Words
Nikon really cemented itself as one of the best rifle scope manufacturers ever.
While Nikon rifle scopes may be off the table, Nikon continues to offer its more profitable product families, whether they be cameras, binoculars, range-finders, or other scope products.
Have you ever been knee-deep in flooded timber, crouched alongside a tree as you watch a flock of mallards work your decoys like they read the script perfectly? You give them a few last feed chuckles as they cup their wings, and you make your shot. You swing perfectly with the appropriate lead, only to watch them all turn and fly out of your life forever, leaving you with nothing to show for it aside from possibly a wounded bird. Has this happened to you? If you’re an avid waterfowler, odds are it has.
The situation I described is all too familiar for most waterfowlers, especially since the federal banning of lead shot for waterfowl in the early ’90s. While this ban played an important role in conservation—fewer birds and other animals are now exposed to toxic lead fragments—the fact remains that most modern waterfowl loads can’t quite match the fatality of lead.
However, in recent years, variations of waterfowl loads have hit the market and gained the attention of outdoorsmen. Variations include split loads, where you could see a mix between a smaller and larger shot to give you that extra knockdown power while still providing enough pellets. Bismuth loads provide a greater density, ensuring cleaner kills. And finally, there’s the revolution of tungsten, which is nearly 70% denser than lead, providing a level of kinetic energy the likes of which hunters had never seen.
But with rising ammo prices and a lack of information surrounding the different shot loads, hunters can have a hard time figuring out which product gives them the best value. I’ll break down the pros and cons of each shot and let you make the final decision on what to put in your shotgun this season!
What started off as a crunch-time decision to create an effective shot load after the federal ban of lead waterfowl loads led into it becoming the most common waterfowl and upland ammunition today. However, the progression into this wasn’t so glamorous. Steel is an extremely hard metal with a very low density (roughly 7.8 grams per cubic centimeter). This means the shot is very rough on chokes. It also has extremely lower energy rates, especially at long distances.
Over the years, the development of steel shot loads has progressed—through methods of wad advancements, powder improvements, and even shot size stacking. Many hunters have grown to appreciate steel for its low cost as well as its effectiveness in close quarters. Though the complaints regarding wounded birds have decreased with these developments, waterfowlers still feel there is too much risk associated with steel, and they often go with something a little denser and more powerful.
Bismuth Shot
Bismuth shot was the first steel alternative after the federal ban of lead shot in the United States. With a far more impressive density compared to steel (roughly 9.6 compared to 7.8), bismuth proved to be a much more fatal alternative while also being much less harsh on shotguns, especially older ones.
The introduction of bismuth also had its downsides though. Unfortunately, it’s an extremely brittle metal that was inconsistent and had a lack of durability during contact with larger birds. Combining this with its price point higher than steel, it was hard for consumers to make that switch.
The good news is that technology has caught up and improved upon those inferior earlier designs. After nearly a decade with a small market presence, bismuth has made an impressive comeback in recent years with its developments of durable metal blends, bridging that gap for waterfowlers who want better kinetic energy without paying tungsten price.
Tungsten
Tungsten has become a staple as the most effective and lethal shot option for waterfowlers, turkey hunters and upland enthusiasts alike. Tungsten super shot (TSS) has 60% greater density than the once-beloved lead shot and nearly twice the density as steel, making it a bird crusher!
Due to its high density and velocity, hunters can get the same knockdown power with smaller shot sizes, allowing for a much larger kill zone. To put this into perspective, the amount of penetration you would get from using No. 4 tungsten at 40 yards is still nearly 10% greater than the penetration you would get from using steel shot at 20 yards. This equates to fewer wounded birds and quicker limits.
The drawback to shooting tungsten is an extremely high price point. Apex Ammunition is one of the leaders in the market for tungsten waterfowl loads. For a price comparison, its TSS ammo is currently priced at nearly $5 per round, compared to its steel blend, which is roughly 92 cents per round. While this price gap can be somewhat astounding, the argument remains that while you may pay more for TSS per round, you’ll be shooting fewer shots and bagging more birds.
Best Bang For Your Buck
Whether you decide to use steel shot, bismuth, or TSS will ultimately come down to your experiences with each, your budget, and the value you see in the options. It’s no secret that while the lead ban took away a very deadly and affordable option, it is an incredible conservation move for protecting our wildlife, and there are options on the market that perform at the same level and even higher, even if at a higher price point. In my experience, using TSS has proven to be well worth the money given its knockdown power and the ability to use smaller shot sizes, giving me a lower margin of error and, thus, more harvested birds. Having said that, I am friends with many avid bird hunters who swear by the effectiveness of modern steel and bismuth loads, and their success is hard to argue with. I would encourage everybody to at least experience all three and make your decision based on how well they perform for you! Good luck this season!
READ MORE: TICK EASE FOUNDER “TICK MAN DAN” TELLS ALL ON THE DANGERS OF THESE PESTS
What comes to your mind when you think of snake sounds? Venomous (poisonous) snakes, right?
It’s true that venomous snake species, like cobras and rattlesnakes, produce a range of sounds as a defense measure.
However, non-venomous species like bull snakes can also create different sounds and noises.
But why do they produce these sounds? Well, continue to the next section for the answer.
Purpose of the Snake’s Sounds and Noises
Snake vocalizations are not just random wild noises; they have a purpose, including:
Communication: Perhaps the primary reason snakes produce distinct sounds and noises is for communication. But here’s something interesting: Snakes don’t use their unique auditory cues for communicating with other snakes. These sounds are meant for potential snake predators. As a fact, the frequency of snake sounds like hissing is too high for other snakes to hear. That means, a snake cannot hear another snaking hissing.
Defense Mechanism: Snake sounds can also act as a defense mechanism. By hissing or producing growls or spine-tingling rattles, the snake can warn predators to stay away.
To Show Aggression: The “sssssss” snake sound could also show aggression, especially in ball pythons. If provoked, snakes might hiss and flicker their tongue quickly to defend themselves.
Territorial Display: Snake sounds can also help them define their territory. A snake might hiss at humans and animals who encroach on their space to ward them off. The sound act as a deterrent, effectively telling intruders to back off.
Types of Noises and Sounds Snakes Make
1. Hissing
A snake’s hiss is unmistakable and super terrifying. Like a dog’s growl, the hiss warns invaders, prey, and predators.
However, wild snakes usually hiss more than snakes in cages. The reason is that the former is exposed to dangers more frequently than the latter. So, they often react to danger or uncertain situations by hissing?
How Does a Snake Produce the Hissing Sound?
Have you ever tried hissing before?
It’s easy! Place your tongue behind your teeth and force air between the opening.
However, that’s not how hissing works in snakes.
These creatures can’t make a lot of different shapes with their mother. As a result, they can produce a lot of different noises.
But they have a secret weapon: the glottis. This is a little hole right underneath the snake’s tongue that connects to the windpipe.
The glottis allows the animal to breathe when swallowing its meal. It also helps the snake produce the sound of a hiss, thanks to a small piece of cartilage inside it.
When a snake exhales through the glottis, the cartilage vibrates, creating a hissing sound. It also gives the hissing extra volume.
Even interesting:
Some snake species like the bullsnake can change their hiss to mimic a rattle. Because the snake is non-venomous, the rattling noise helps them intimidate predators.
While hissing, snakes also poke out their tongues to smell the predator and take the safest route to escape.
When Do Pet Snakes Hiss?
When Startled: If you catch a pet snake off guard, it might hiss out of fear. It’s normal for baby snakes to hiss more because they are still getting used to the environment and human owners. To prevent this, first touch the snake softly to alert it you are about to pick it up.
When Annoyed: Sometimes, snakes want to enjoy their peace undisturbed. If you try to pick one up, it might hiss back at you to express displeasure. So, leave it alone until it’s in a merry mood.
When Digesting Food: Experts recommend allowing the snake to relax after ingesting a large meal. This can take 3 to 5 days, depending on the snake’s size and amount of food. If you lift the snake after the meal, it will probably hiss to express dissatisfaction.
When It’s About to Shade: Snakes shed their skin about four times annually. So, leave it alone during this time to avoid upsetting it. If you attempt to touch or pick it up during the shedding process, it may feel nervous and hiss to express itself.
2. Rattling
You can identify rattlesnakes by their distinctive rattle sound, particularly the Western Diamondback Rattlesnake.
But did you know rattlesnakes are not the only snakes that shake their tails?
We have other dangerous snakes, including:
Cottonmouths
Copperheads
Terciopelos
Cantills
Bushmasters (These snakes even have spine-like scales at the tip of their tails for a louder sound)
Here’s a list of non-venomous snake species that also shake their tails:
Corn snakes
Gopher snakes
Rat snakes
Kingsnakes
These snakes produce rattling sounds by shaking their tails, which consist of interlocking segments made from keratin. Yes! The stuff that makes up your finger and toenails.
These interlocking segments are loosely attached. As a result, they move back and forth when the snake shakes its tail, producing a rattle.
As the snake grows and sheds its skin, a new segment forms and is added to the rattle, causing it to lengthen over time. But a long rattle doesn’t necessarily mean a loud sound. That would be the speed and intensity of the tail vibration.
For venomous snakes, the tail shaking serves as a warning to predators. It also serves as a diversion, directing the attacker’s attention to the tail. This can lead to confusion and prevent an attack.
As for non-poisonous snakes, tail vibrations help them mimic dangerous snake species and shield themselves from predators. This is what is called Batesian mimicry.
3. Bellowing
The bull, gopher, and pine snake can produce bellows when threatened or attacked by a predator. Unlike hisses, bellows are distinctively loud and can leave you frozen in your tracks.
These snakes bellow by forcing air via the larynx. Within the larynx is the laryngeal septum (vocal coder), which vibrates to produce the spine-chilling bellowing sound.
Usually, this sound has a short period of high amplitude (loud noise) followed by a long period of low amplitude (quieter noise).
4. Growling
You would think a bellow is the most unique snake vocalization. But wait till you learn that some species have evolved to growl when agitated. One such snake is the king of cobra.
The king cobra is considered one of the largest venomous snake species in the world. While it might look intimidating, it’s usually timid unless it feels threatened.
When a king cobra spots a threat, it might slither to safer areas. It might also inflate its hood, which comprises several air sacs to look bigger and intimidate the attacker.
Additionally, it may produce a scary growl that sounds like it belongs to a lion or dog instead of a snake.
Additional Snakes Sounds and Noises
Besides the vocalizations mentioned above, here are some creepy snake sounds worth checking out:
Puffing: It is no surprise to hear your pet snake puff and huff at night or when feeding. This rings true for snake species, like boas and carpet pythons. The puffs and huffs could also show the snake’s frustration.
Shrieking: Snakes that bellow like the pine snake can also produce a shriek in response to danger. All thanks to its distinctive vocal cord.
Whistling: Some snakes like Russel vipers and corn snakes whistle.
Rasping: Some snakes produce rasping sounds by rubbing their scale together. For example, saw-scaled vipers (native to Africa and Asia), will assume an “S” shape and rub their scale together to make a noise similar to a hiss. The purpose of the sound is to scare away predators.
What To Do During a Snake Encounter
Snakes are typically timid and avoid human contact and confrontation whenever possible. So, if you encounter one on your property, it is more likely the snake is scared of you than you are of it.
Below, we’ve provided you with the best ways to deal with a hissing snake and ensure the safety of both parties.
Stay Calm: Panicking only increases the likelihood of sudden movements. This can disturb or frighten the slithering creature. As a defense response, the snake might hiss or even attack you.
Note the Sound: Snake species make sounds, such as hissing, rattling, or growling. Identify the type of sound and, if possible, try to identify the snake and the threat level. This information might guide your next actions.
Allow the Snake Some Space: Snakes frequently make sounds as a defensive mechanism, signaling a threat. Respect the snake’s personal space and avoid approaching or handling it. Maintain a safe distance to prevent snake bites and lower the risk of escalating aggression.
Back Away: If you encounter a snake and it makes noises, it’s best to back away from the scene. Also, maintain eye contact with the snake, as it will be aware of your movements. Create distance by retreating slowly and smoothly while avoiding sudden or threatening gestures.
Seek Professional Help: In certain situations, it’s wise to call your local animal control or professional snake removal service. These experts possess the skills and equipment to handle and relocate the snake, safely.
Closing Thoughts
Snakes have a fearsome reputation. But surprisingly, these creatures are typically shy and often avoid human interactions. They naturally keep their distance when they sense human or predator presence.
However, when threatened or cornered, they can produce a lot of different sounds to warn, intimidate or divert the attention of invaders or predators.
Most individuals are familiar with the snake’s hiss. But these animals can also growl, buzz, rattle, shriek, whistle, and rasp. This shows the remarkable diversity of snake vocalizations.
Overall, learning about snake sounds and noises helps you better appreciate their communication methods. This way, you can prevent dangerous encounters, especially with venomous species.
Thank you for stopping by! If you have any questions, inform us in the comment section.
That is how I describe where I live to people I cross paths with when I’m traveling. Growing up in the Kenora area, around Lake of the Woods, I’ve been spoiled with fantastic walleye fishing my whole life. Since I was a little kid, walleye have been my favourite species to catch through the ice because the action is always reliable, they are the best fish we have to eat and we catch plenty of big ones.
Nearly all of the resorts that stay open through the winter across the Sunset Country Region will be able to put you on some top-notch walleye fishing. Here are a few of my top tips.
Where to catch walleyes through the ice
Across Northwest Ontario, we have a variety of different types of lakes that hold excellent populations of walleyes. Some are shallow and tannic-colored waters, and others are clear, deep-water lakes, with a variety of waters in between. Excellent walleye fishing exists across the region so how do you choose the best place for your ice-fishing adventure?
If you have visited us here in the open water season, does your favourite resort offer ice fishing? They could be a good place to start. The next consideration might be your transportation options. Snowmobiles or ATVs offer access to remote locations so you can find your own hot spots.
Drive-to-vehicle access is available on some waters, where ice roads allow you to drive right to your fishing spot. The availability of ice roads could be a discussion with whoever you book your trip with. Some resorts will rent snowmobiles, which might be a good way to go if you don’t own one. They are fun to drive and can really open up the doors for fishing opportunities.
The season is open from freeze-up until April 15. Some years we’re able to stay on the ice right up to the 15th, other years the ice is done by the end of March. Like with some of the other species, my favourite times to be on the ice are early and late in the season. Early on, it’s easy to get around without a lot of snow on the ice, and getting the first crack at some of the humps and points that are good year after year results in some great fishing.
Walleye spawn shortly after ice-out around creek mouths or in shallow bays and predictably, they show up in front of these areas in March every year for the last few weeks of the ice season. I like to focus my efforts on structures like humps and points in front of these areas and if they don’t exist, walleyes can be caught on flats just out from the first good drop into deeper water. In some of the shallow walleye lakes, particularly some of the remote lakes, we’ll catch walleyes extremely shallow late in the season, sometimes as shallow as three to five feet. When you set the hook, they’ll just come flying up the hole.
Earlier in the season, focus on main-lake humps, points, and flats. A lot of the same spots that are good in the summer are also good in the winter, you might just have to drop out and fish a little bit deeper. Because our walleye fishing is so good across the region, I have a five-minute rule for the holes that I fish. Of course, there are days when you can set up shop in a shelter and wait for the fish to come to you. That can be relaxing, you can share some good fellowship with your buddies and hey, we get real winter so some days you have to hide out inside because it’s so cold.
When I go for fun, I pick the nicer weather days and hole hop outside. If I jig in a hole for five minutes and don’t at least mark a fish, I’m moving to the next hole. Sometimes small adjustments in depth can make a big difference. Sometimes you’ll get a hole where you’re right over the top of a ledge or sharp drop and those are never as good. It’s good to be close to the edge, but a flat bottom is always the best for walleyes, where they can creep along and find your bait. The flats also allow the fish to congregate together as well.
How to catch walleyes through the ice
For the past twenty years, I’ve seldom used anything but a spoon for fishing walleyes through the ice. My go-to has always been a Northland Buck-Shot Spoon, popular with walleye anglers across the ice belt. I’ll always tip my spoon with a frozen minnow head and it never lets me down.
The traditional jig tipped with a minnow still works fine, I just think it’s more fun watching a spoon on my sonar unit and figuring out how to trick walleyes into biting it when they come in for a look. Some days, aggressive jigging gets bites, other days, you need to shake your spoon in a subtle manner. Figuring out how to trigger them to bite is the fun part. On some of the shallower, inland lakes, a jig tipped with a live minnow, hooked through the tail can be the best presentation. Something to consider if you fish in one of those types of lakes.
On the bigger waters, however, jigging with spoons or swimming jigs is tough to beat. Most of the time walleyes are going to be found near the bottom so electronics are not mandatory to catch fish but they will always help you put a few more on the ice. It’s good to know when walleyes are moving around beneath your hole and every once in a while, you’re going to see fish pass by that are slightly above the bottom so you can bring your bait up a bit so they can see it. More often than not, these suspended walleyes are aggressive and bite immediately.
If you are coming to visit us for a fishing trip you should also know that the “prime-time” bite is exceptional on most waters. We call that last hour of daylight “prime-time” because the walleyes almost always bite a lot better than they do the rest of the day. In fact, on some of the clear water walleye fisheries, it’s tough to catch fish during the day, then they go nuts just before dark. If you are coming for a trip, don’t be afraid to stay out there late and catch that “prime-time” bite.
Some waters in Sunset Country have special regulations for walleye fishing, including size restrictions, no-fishing areas, and bait restrictions so it’s always good to consult the Ontario Sport Fishing Regulations before you hit the ice. If you stay with a resort, they will be able to direct you on specific regulations on their waters.
We look forward to seeing you on the ice in Sunset Country this winter.
Whitetail deer hunting is one of the most popular forms of hunting in North America. These majestic creatures can be found throughout the United States and Canada, and their impressive antlers make them a popular target for hunters. But have you ever wondered what the biggest whitetail deer ever killed was? In this article, we’ll take a look at the record books and explore some of the biggest whitetail deer ever taken down by hunters.
The Boone and Crockett Club is a non-profit organization dedicated to the conservation and management of wildlife and their habitats. Founded in 1887 by Theodore Roosevelt and George Bird Grinnell, the club is best known for its record-keeping system for big game animals. The Boone and Crockett Club’s scoring system is based on the size of the animal’s antlers, and it is the standard by which all other record-keeping organizations measure big game animals.
The Top 5 Biggest Whitetail Deer Ever Killed
According to the Boone and Crockett Club’s records, the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed are as follows:
1. The Jordan Buck – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Al Jordan in 1914 in Danbury, Wisconsin. The Jordan Buck’s antlers scored an impressive 206 1/8 inches.
2. The Hole-In-The-Horn Buck – This famous whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Larry Gibson in 1940 in Peoria County, Illinois. The Hole-In-The-Horn Buck’s antlers scored 205 0/8 inches.
3. The Missouri Monarch – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Jim Jordan in 1981 in St. Louis County, Missouri. The Missouri Monarch’s antlers scored 198 2/8 inches.
4. The Beatty Buck – This impressive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter James Beatty in 2000 in Greene County, Ohio. The Beatty Buck’s antlers scored 294 0/8 inches.
5. The Hanson Buck – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Milo Hanson in 1993 in Saskatchewan, Canada. The Hanson Buck’s antlers scored an impressive 213 5/8 inches.
While these are the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed according to the Boone and Crockett Club’s records, there are many other impressive whitetail deer out there. In fact, there are over 7,000 whitetail deer in the Boone and Crockett Club’s record book, each with their own unique story.
Factors that Affect Antler Size
While genetics play a large role in determining the size of a whitetail deer’s antlers, there are other factors that can affect antler size as well. These include:
1. Age – As a whitetail deer gets older, its antlers will typically grow larger.
2. Nutrition – A whitetail deer that has access to high-quality food sources will typically have larger antlers than a deer that is struggling to find food.
3. Habitat – Whitetail deer that live in areas with ideal habitat conditions (such as good cover and access to water) will typically have larger antlers than deer that live in less ideal conditions.
4. Hunting Pressure – Whitetail deer that live in areas with high hunting pressure may have smaller antlers due to the fact that hunters are selectively targeting larger deer.
Conclusion
While the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed are certainly impressive, it’s important to remember that hunting is about more than just taking down the biggest animal. It’s about being a responsible and ethical hunter, respecting the animals and their habitats, and enjoying the outdoors. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or just starting out, always remember to hunt safely and responsibly, and to respect the animals and the land.
Several methods are available to estimate the weight of a fish. Some use length as well as girth measurements. Weight also can be estimated using only length measurements based on relationship between length and weight. Length-weight equations can be developed for specific waters, regions (e.g., states), or for a particular species.
Formulas containing length as well as girth are often most accurate for estimating weight, because the fatness or plumpness of the fish is accounted for. If only length is available, the most accurate weights often are estimated from length-weight relationships for specific waters or regions. For instance, in some waters fish might be relatively “skinny,” and the weight estimate might be overinflated if based on a formula created from data on a water body where fish are “fat” or even “normal.” That’s why adding girth to the formula can help with accuracy. Formula’s containing girth, however, also may not be as accurate as we’d like, because of inherent differences in the shape of fish and finding the right adjustment factor (or “shape” factor) to use in the formula. And it’s important to measure girth carefully, and at the fish’s fattest point, as girth estimates affect weight estimates powerfully.
One easy way to estimate fish weight is through the use of standard length-weight formulas. Species-specific formulas, called standard-weight equations, have been developed for dozens of fish species by fishery biologists to describe the standard growth form of a species as a whole. These relationships often are used to assess body condition (the relative weight or plumpness of a fish), which provides an index of a fish’s well-being, such as whether there are forage shortages or surpluses, and can sometimes reflect fish growth rate.
These standard length-weight formulas are often developed using thousands of fish from hundreds of populations across the range of a species, so they describe the “general” growth form of that species. For instance, the equation for black crappie was developed using over 20,000 fish across a range of sizes from 175 populations across the geographic range of black crappie.
*An important thing to keep in mind is that these standard length-weight formulas describe fish in “above-average” condition. In fact, the weights in the tables represent the 75th-percentile in the samples for that particular length, and are not average weights. In other words, if you lined up 100 random bass of the same length in order of weight, and those bass were a good representation of the range of weights for that length, the weight provided in the table would be for the 75th heaviest fish. While it might have made more sense to use the median weight for these formulas, fishery biologists decided to go with the 75th percentile so that the standard weight at a given length was an above-average or “ideal” target to shoot for in terms of body condition. So, if your fish appears plump and healthy, the weights from the table should be relatively close. If your fish is skinny to average, it will weigh less, and if very plump and remarkably “fat” it will weigh more. Just make an adjustment. No formula is 100-percent accurate, but if you have only length and not girth, this should help get you in the ballpark. Your state fishery agency may have standard weight tables based on regional data posted on their website. These formulas use total length of the fish, measured from the tip of the snout to the tip of the tail fin when compressed.
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