Before his untimely death, Gregg Meyer was a cagey multispecies angler who often used spinnerbaits to catch walleyes. “Once the spawn is over, walleyes are all about feeding,” he noted. “They move shallow into warm water where the food chain is in high gear. Banks and shallow flats are loaded with minnows, small panfish — all sorts of prey. Anglers usually use crankbaits and jigs tipped with bait or artificials to work that zone, but at times a spinnerbait can be more effective.

“Since spinnerbaits are snag-resistant, they work better than just about anything else around standing timber, flooded bushes, and brush,” he said. “Walleyes use that cover when feeding on panfish, shad, and minnows. Rocky shores can be good, too, especially when a modest wind is blowing in. I also fish the tops of shallow flats and along drop-offs where the flats breaks into deeper water. Preyfish must be present to get walleyes hunting shallow. In spring and early summer, some days they’re shallow and some days they’re not. You need to experiment, have faith, and not give up on this technique. Like anything else, it doesn’t work all the time.”

Rigging

Meyer uses his bass tackle for spinnerbaiting — a medium-heavy baitcasting outfit 6 ½ feet long and a reel spooled with 10- or 12-pound mono or braid of similar diameter. “If you don’t have baitcasters, your kid’s spincast reel will do,” he says. “You’re fishing shallow, but you still need to be aware of structural elements, so you need sonar, unless you’re familiar with the lake’s layout. The unit also helps pinpoint baitfish when you’re deeper than 5 feet or so.”

Meyer uses spinnerbaits from 1/8- to 3/8-ounce. He wants a true-running bait with good components and uses various models from Stanley Jigs of Huntington, Texas. A tapered-wire shaft enhances vibration that may be a key component of the spinnerbait’s attraction. The Stanley Salty Boss is hard to beat.

“Some days, blade color matters,” he reported. “I switch among silver, gold, white, chartreuse, and key-lime-green blades. For the skirt, baitfish colors work fine in clearer water — silvers, golds, smoke-sparkle, and so on. In murkier water, chartreuse and white do well.”

Meyer says that top-quality polarized sunglasses are vital, as you often are sight-fishing. He favors those that block out light from the sides, such as the Wiley X models with a foam insert that seals the glasses around your face “Look carefully and you can spot walleyes in water as shallow as 6 inches,” he says. “Keep your distance, approach cautiously, and you can catch those fish.

Presentation

Meyer uses a variety of retrieves to trigger walleyes. “When they’re holding shallow and tight to the bank, cast right onto the edge of the shore. It’s common to have fish bite in the first five feet of the retrieve. In deeper water, make the retrieve smooth and slow, so the spinnerbait moves along near bottom. If you’re fishing a sloping area, slow down as the water deepens, to keep the spinnerbait down — what the bass guys call ‘slow-rolling.'”

Meyer uses the lure’s snag resistance to saturate shallow cover, easing it among boulders, weed clumps, brush, and stumps. Make it bump the cover on occasion, as that momentary change in direction can trigger bites from less active fish. He’s also found that a spinnerbait works well when retrieved parallel to a rocky bluff or the riprap face of a dam or causeway. Once you figure the prime depth, you repeat the presentation.

At times it pays to experiment with more erratic action. “Pause the bait and let it flutter,” he recommended. “The blade on a good spinnerbait lets it helicopter down, and that can be deadly on walleyes.”

Tips for Success

A spinnerbait is essentially a simple lure and at times there’s no wrong way to work it. Like other lures, it doesn’t always work, but when it’s on, it can load the boat with big walleyes. Meyer has a few more tips to help get you started.

Bait: “At times, it pays to tip the spinnerbait with a nightcrawler or minnow. There’s something about the look, smell, and taste of real food. Make sure the lure continues to run perfectly straight when bait is attached. Critters often turn on the hook and ruin the presentation. So I don’t use bait unless it seems necessary.”

Short strikes: “If you get bumped and don’t hook up, try a trailer or stinger hook to nail short strikers. Some days, the stinger gets most of the fish. But it can be a pain around brush and grass, so I don’t use one until I start missing fish.”

Other species: “It’s common to catch both bass and walleyes as you move along a bank — pike as well. But if you start catching nothing but bass, it’s time to move, unless you’re just fishing for fun. I love bass, too, and it’s hard to abandon a fast bite on anything.”

Tackle care: “You’re working through cover, and the line takes a beating, even heavy mono or braid. Moreover, walleyes really slam these things. Check the line and retie to keep from eventually breaking off a lunker. After catching some fish, the lure may get out of balance. Bend the overheard wire back into shape so it runs true. Sharpen the hook, too, and replace skirts when they get threadbare.”

Deep Tactics

Spinnerbaits are at their finest around shallow cover and on shallow banks in spring and early summer, but they can also be used deep. Again, the presence of cover often is the key. Across much of the West, when reservoirs rise they flood deeper trees and walleyes often suspend in the tops of those trees. Slow-trolling one-ounce spinnerbaits on a long line through the tops of the trees can be deadly. Anglers also use leadcore line to get spinnerbaits down.

Meyer has also had success with a teaser ahead of a trolled spinnerbait. “Before you tie on, string on a couple beads — -my favorite color, key lime — then a clevis with a tiny Colorado blade, then four more beads. It looks like multiple baitfish being chased by a smaller predatory fish,” he says.

Spinnerbaits use flash and vibration to sell the image of vulnerable prey to a predator. Meyer: “As a spinner turns, it produces a steady flash, since both sides are gold or silver or whatever. But when you watch a school of baitfish, they don’t produce a regular flash; it’s far more random. At times an intermittent flash or flicker is a better trigger than a constant flash. To produce intermittent flash, use a magic marker to blacken the concave side of the blade.”

Some anglers in the West have been using spinnerbaits for many years, but it generally hasn’t caught on elsewhere. Don’t let tradition stand in the way of success. In the right situations, walleyes eat spinnerbaits just as well as they do crankbaits and jigs.

*The late Gregg Meyer, Wilsonville, Nebraska, had a career in law enforcement, in addition to being an avid and innovative angler. This was his last of several contributions to In-Fisherman.

The Garmin Alpha 10 device allows you to closely track up to 20 dogs’ movement in the field at a range of up to 9 miles. I put a prerelease model to the test with one German Shorthaired Pointer.

Dog-tracking collars are nothing new. Garmin has a fleet of advanced dog tracking and training systems available. Embraced by hunters who run dogs over vast expanses yet need the ability to monitor each dog’s behavior, these GPS tracking devices are powerful tools in the field.

Today, Garmin added a new tool to the box with the Alpha 10. And while the Alpha 10 might be the newest, it isn’t the biggest hammer in the box.

Instead, the Alpha 10 gives hunters (and anyone else who may want to leverage the power of real-time dog tracking) a versatile, light, effective tracker with trimmed-back features at an attractive price ($400 for the handheld; $650-700 for the handheld plus a collar).

No, that’s still not cheap. But compared with models with more robust onboard GPS mapping, it saves hundreds of dollars. So, I put one to the test way off the grid in the Colorado mountains.

In short: The Alpha 10 performs most of the functions of higher-cost GPS trackers at a lower price. The easy-to-use, accurate tool is a great option for hunters who tend to use phone apps for navigation. Finally, the training collar works well for hunters who have trained their dogs on e-collars.

Garmin Alpha 10 Review

I took the Alpha 10 into some big mountains to scout for the upcoming elk season. As it was still a month away, my wife and I took our GSP along to see if we could wrangle up some grouse for practice.

The Alpha 10 unit was pretty easy to set up initially. The instructions outlined everything from charging to pairing and basic use, and most of this was intuitive enough to do just from inspecting the product.

I paired the Alpha 10 with the TT15 Mini training collar. It allows you to communicate with the dog through tone, vibration, and electric stimulation. Thankfully, my dog is already trained to understand these, and it made for a smooth transition.

In my first use, I had the collar figured out in about 10 minutes out of the car. It took a few minutes to understand the menu system and user interface. But once I’d found and scrolled around all the screens, the product was second nature.

As my pup wove a pattern through the forest and meadows, I could follow her range and direction from the device. It displays an arrow pointing to the dog, and a distance. This makes it very easy to know your dog’s exact location.

Garmin says you can do this with up to 20 dogs at once. I haven’t tried!

In a quick first use, the Alpha 10 seems like a solid system. It allowed me to monitor my dog. And it tells me when she points, sits, lays down, or trees (more applicable to hounds than GSPs). My dog never ranged more than 200 yards during my use, but the device seemed accurate.

The only thing I disliked about the collar and handheld is that it doesn’t come with a hard case to organize the parts. For a product that costs double that of non-GPS dog-training collars from Dogtra, I’d love to see a nice case to keep your investment safe.

Alpha 10 Dog Tracker: Other Features

I got a good first look at the product. But due to its preproduction status, I couldn’t test all the features.

For instance, the Alpha 10 will pair with phones. This allows you to use the Garmin Explore app to track your hunts and even monitor dogs or other buddies who have Garmin products — all from your smartphone.

Here’s the brand’s pitch about these features, which I have not tested.

Mobile Solution

Hunters can pair the Alpha 10 with the Garmin Explore smart device app for enhanced mapping solutions. When paired, users can stow the Alpha 10 handheld in their pack and use their compatible smartphone or tablet to view their dogs’ location and track in real-time.

Garmin Explore provides added relevant information, such as hunt replay to relive your favorite moments of the hunt, robust off-grid navigation, customizable tracking lines, and saved hunt collections for easy access when you need it.

Companion Tracking

Alpha 10 users can pair their unit to a companion’s compatible Garmin dog-tracking device, such as Alpha 200i, to view their companion and companion’s dog location. Once paired, the Alpha 10 operator can make real-time decisions based on at-a-glance information, instead of waiting for verbal communication from the dog’s handler.

The two-way connectivity allows the dog handler and Alpha 10 users to view each other’s location for enhanced awareness when not in visual contact. Additionally, compatible devices can share predefined messages between units for rapid communication.

Ecosystem Compatibility

Individuals can pair the Alpha 10 with optional Garmin devices, including a compatible Garmin smartwatch, such as Instinct, fēnix, or tactix, using the built-in dog-tracking app.

For in-vehicle tracking, the Alpha 10 is also compatible with the Garmin DriveTrack system.

Also, UTV/ATV enthusiasts can pair the Alpha 10 to the Montana 700 or Tread series for additional dog-tracking capabilities.

Visit Garmin’s website to learn more or buy now.

THE WOUNDS from his fight with a baboon weren’t fully healed when Bismark charged the Cape buffalo.

We had spent the day trying to split two satellite bulls from the herd. I had been hired to photograph a plains- and dangerous-game safari in South Africa’s northernmost province of Limpopo, and I was shooting through my telephoto lens as one of the bulls broke from cover and charged.

The hunter shot the buff at 40 yards, then again. Bismark, a wire-haired Jack Russell, stood at heel beside his handler, professional hunter Divan Human. I don’t know how many shots were fired—both by the hunter and the PH—as the buffalo thundered to 15 yards, but it wasn’t dying. That’s when Bismark broke heel and tried to ride it.

As a lifelong hunter, I’ve seen bayed bears and treed mountain lions. As a nuisance wildlife professional, I’ve pulled badgers out of holes and I’ve been face to face with rattlesnakes under houses. Nothing compares to that Cape buffalo charge. They’re called “black death” in South Africa, and I get that now. But the heart of a terrier is unmatched, and Bismark was ready to die for us.

Bismark is unshakable, but he’s no one-hit wonder. I saw a dozen blood-tracking dogs while on safari this spring; every one was a Jack Russell. The breed was first developed in Britain for fox hunting, and its prevalence in South Africa today is a byproduct of British colonialism. Although I didn’t see any on my trip, Jagd terriers (“jagd” is German for “hunt”) are also popular among South African outfitters.

The cool thing about terriers is they can do a little bit of everything. I’ve owned Jagds for nearly a decade and they’re integral to my nuisance wildlife business in the Southwest. Although it’s no longer commonplace in the U.S., terriers were originally bred for this work. They excel at finding dead animals, locating live ones, and catching critters. Because of all that tenacity packed into a small body, they also have a tendency to get hurt on the job. (As the Jack Russell Terrier Club of South Africa puts it, the “real Jack Russell terrier does not sit on the sidelines of life.”) While PHs here release their dogs on most game tracks, they don’t allow them to trail warthogs, which are notorious for killing dogs.

When Bismark was younger, one of Human’s clients shot a big Nile crocodile and Bismark broke at the shot. That’s scary because you’re relying on a client to not shoot your dog, but you also don’t want the animal alive enough to kill your dog. Fortunately it was a good hit, but that’s just how it goes with terriers sometimes: You can’t proof a dog until you put him in situations like that. I saw lots of animals harvested in the three weeks I was there, and only now and then would a dog slip up and break at heel.

A standard track looked like this: As soon as the shot went off and the PH released his dog, the trackers would run in and try to keep up. Because we were hunting in such thick cover—50-yard shots were far in some cases—you couldn’t see the dog 100 yards away, let alone the kudu that was just shot. It was helpful to hear barking so you could locate him.

After a shot the dog was off to the races, and the human tracker was not far behind. And the trackers were incredible. I was skeptical at first. I’ve heard stories of how great they are, but I couldn’t help thinking: I’ve hunted my whole life. How good can these guys really be? What you don’t realize is those trackers hunt year-round except for the rainy season and they track lots of animals every day.

Better yet, the dogs don’t take away from the tracker’s job because often the tracker’s job isn’t just finding downed game—it’s finding live game. South Africans only use their blood dogs for locating animals that have been hit well.

Fortunately, the Cape buffalo was well hit—several times. In the end, the bull slid to a stop just yards from our feet, with Bismark barking on its back.

Read more OL+ stories.

Congratulations! You’ve caught yourself a chicken of the woods.

These fungi are delicious, nutritious, and gigantic — it’s common to find specimens weighing several pounds. This is a stroke of good luck, but preserving such a massive mushroom can be difficult. What exactly are you going to do with it?

I’m here to break down the best ways to store your shroom according to your resources and preferences. Once you know how to store chicken of the woods correctly, you can use your summer harvest for sustenance through the winter and beyond.

Top Five Ways to Store Chicken of the Woods

1. Refrigerator Storage

Chicken of the woods will stay fresh for up to seven days in the refrigerator.

The most basic way to keep any food fresh is to keep it cold, so storing mushrooms in the fridge is a logical place to start. This method is best for people who plan to consume, give away, or otherwise use up their chicken within a week.

It is not ideal for long-term storage. The mushrooms lose flavor after two or three days, breaking down and becoming unpalatable after about a week. Of course, some people report their chickens stay good for several weeks in the fridge, but you don’t really want to risk it. If you won’t eat it soon, use a different storage method.

Think the fridge is the best choice for you? Here’s how to do it properly:

• Ensure your fridge is 40°F or colder, the safe temperature to store produce, meat, and mushrooms.
• Cut out any visible bruising on your fresh mushrooms. Bruising promotes microbial growth and causes mushrooms to spoil faster, so remove it before it can spread.
• Aside from trimming the bad parts, do not slice or process the mushrooms before storing them in the fridge. Cut mushrooms spoil faster, so begin with whole fronds or shelves instead.
• Do not wash the mushrooms before storing them; wash them before cooking. Excess moisture promotes bacterial growth. You can pick off insects with your fingers and wipe away dirt with a dry rag.
• Use a paper or mesh bag instead of a plastic bag or Tupperware. This encourages airflow around the mushrooms and helps prevent bacteria from proliferating.
• Store the mushrooms in the central part of your fridge rather than the crisper drawer. The high humidity in the crisper could promote spoilage.

2. Freezer Storage

Chicken of the woods will stay good for up to 12 months in the freezer.

Need a more long-term option? Freezing your chicken of the woods could be the perfect choice. This method is best if you have a substantial harvest you’d like to use up over the next several months.

The jury’s out on exactly how long your frozen chicken will last. The mushroom’s water content and starting quality will be significant factors, but it should last between nine and twelve months if you prep it right.

To cook or not to cook?

People often say you shouldn’t freeze raw mushrooms, which is mostly correct. The majority of fungi contain a lot of water. When frozen, the liquid expands, turning your nice meaty mushroom into a slushie.

However, chicken of the woods has a relatively low water content and will retain much of its original flavor and texture when frozen raw. Of course, the water content can still vary between specimens. Some are more moist, especially young ones. Older fruits or those exposed to a lot of sunlight are drier.

I find raw freezing preferable simply because it reduces the processing time. My only exception is when a specimen is exceptionally young and moist. Then, I parboil or sauté it in oil and white wine before freezing it so it releases some of the juices.

You might want to try both ways to see what works for you. If you freeze chickens raw, remember to cook them thoroughly before eating them — any wild food may contain pathogens, and you don’t want to ingest those!

Is freezing your method of choice? Here’s how to get the best results:

• Clean mushrooms thoroughly before freezing. You can even wash them in water, but if you do, dry them with a towel and leave them to air-dry for at least an hour before packaging them. You want to remove as much moisture as possible.
• Chop your chicken in slices about an inch thick or leave it whole according to your preferences.
• Before packaging, you can “flash-freeze” sliced chickens for a few hours on a freezer tray. This is not a true commercial-style flash-freeze and won’t prevent ice crystals from forming, but it will prevent mushroom chunks from fusing together in the freezer bag.
• Use the proper packaging. If you use containers that trap air, ice will form and ruin the mushroom’s flavor and texture. Putting chicken of the woods in a tight, airless bag and using a vacuum sealer to remove air is best. If you don’t have one, don’t sweat it. I have great results with regular freezer bags. Simply portion your mushrooms into the bags, carefully roll out all the air, seal them, and stow them away.
• Do not defrost your mushrooms before cooking since this can corrupt the texture. Instead, cook them frozen.

3. Dry Storage

Chicken of the woods will last up to five years when dried.

Drying mushrooms is one of the best ways to preserve them for long-term storage, but it does take away some cooking options from you. While mushrooms like wood ear reconstitute perfectly, chicken of the woods is another bird entirely.

Dried chicken of the woods retains flavor nicely, but the texture gets ruined when dried and reconstituted. Essentially, it becomes mush. While you can’t use it for chicken nuggets, it still makes a delicious addition to stews and sauces. You can even grind it in the blender for some delicious umami chicken of the woods spice powder.

You can dry chickens in a dehydrator, the oven, or open air. I’ve reviewed how to prep and dry fungi in my mushroom dehydration guide, which contains all the information you need to complete the process.

Think dehydration is the way to go? Here’s how to store the harvest once you’ve dried it:

• Use mason jars, Tupperware, or Ziploc bags to keep your shrooms fresh for up to a year. Keep the containers in a cool, dark place.
• Use mylar bags to keep dried mushrooms fresh for up to five years. To help extend shelf-life further, store the bags in a cool, dark place or the freezer.
• Whatever storage container you use, consider adding an oxygen absorber. These neat little packets prevent oxygen from lingering around your dried fungi and stop spoilage in its tracks.

4. Fermenting and Pickling

Chicken of the woods will last for several weeks when pickled and up to eight months when fermented.

Fermenting and pickling are both delicious preservation techniques that rely on acid to prevent microbial growth. Pickling involves submerging food in an acidic brine, while fermentation creates an acidic environment through biological processes. Either one will work well with chicken of the woods.

We’ve discussed both methods in an in-depth pickling guide, which gives you all the info you need to get started. No matter what process you choose, don’t forget to cook the mushroom beforehand. Boiling it in water for five to ten minutes will be sufficient.

Want to try your hand at fermenting or pickling chicken of the woods? Here are some helpful tips:

• Slice mushrooms into ½-inch strips before boiling. A thinner slice ensures they cook all the way through.
• Customize your brine recipe with herbs and spices to keep things interesting with distinct flavors.
• You can use mason jars for pickling, but chicken of the woods are big. To make processing them easier, consider getting yourself a pickling crock that can hold more substantial amounts of fungi. You can transfer it to jars for storage once it has fermented.
• Store pickled chicken in your fridge or a cool, dark place to make it last longer.

5. Canning

Chicken of the woods will last up to five years when canned.

Canning chicken of the woods works great for long-term storage. Cans are compact and convenient to stow away in any corner of your home. They’re easy to pop open and they last a long time. The USDA guidelines recommend keeping cans for about a year, but this is more about quality than safety. As time passes, flavor and nutrient content can decrease, but canned items shouldn’t go bad.

Keep in mind that you must use a pressure canner to can chicken of the woods. Mushrooms are a low-acid food and have the potential for deadly botulism growth. Canning them under pressure is the only way to kill these bacteria.

The only exception is if you’ve already fermented or pickled them — in this case, the acidic environment renders it safe to water-bath can them. Check out our guides on water-bath canning and pressure canning for a complete breakdown of the two processes.

Want to try your hand at canning chicken of the woods? Here are some tips for success:

• Always cook chicken of the woods before canning it.
• Add a pinch of ascorbic acid or a vitamin C tablet to your canning liquid to preserve chicken of the woods’ beautiful natural colors.
• If you enjoy canning, consider buying a pressure canner. It makes everything easier and faster and allows you to can more items safely!

Now that you know how to store chicken of the woods, you won’t be scared to harvest the next mega-mushroom you find. Armed with all the knowledge you need to preserve it, you’ll be able to enjoy the fruits of your harvest all year long.

Building a DIY deer stand is an excellent way for avid hunters to enhance their hunting experience. Learn how to build homemade deer stands with these 25 free DIY deer blind plans to build a safe and comfortable hunting spot easily. These free deer blind plans designed for everyone, from beginners to seasoned builders.

These DIY deer blind plans include step-by-step instructions, detailed guidelines, and PDF downloads, making the process as easy as possible. Incorporate homemade deer stands into your next hunting adventure or nature observation to improve your experience.

Our collection of DIY deer blind plans features a wide range of styles and designs, such as elevated hunting blinds, mobile deer blinds, homemade tree stand blinds, and box blinds. These plans cater to various preferences and uses, such as bow hunting, rifle shooting, or wildlife photography. Choose between using scrap wood, pallets, or new materials to make the perfect deer blind, depending on your budget and preferences.

So, gather your tools and materials, and embark on your DIY deer blind project today! With our 25 free DIY deer blind plans, you’ll have plenty of options to choose from and make a custom and practical hunting blind that will enhance your outdoor experiences. Don’t wait any longer – start building your very own DIY deer blind today!

1. DIY Elevated Deer Hunting Blind Under $500

Revamp your hunting experience with a custom-built, elevated DIY deer blind designed for optimal visibility and protection against weather elements. This innovative project requires basic tools and materials, easily sourced from any home improvement store. Remarkably budget-friendly, you can erect this stand on a weekend with a spending limit of approximately $500.

This deer blind, fashioned from common lumber, blends functionality with portability. It conveniently fits into the bed of a standard full-size pickup, specifically designed with the dimensions of an F-150 in mind.

Despite its compact design, it comfortably accommodates two people and is sturdy enough to withstand harsh weather conditions, proving its worth during below-freezing pre-dawn hunts. Elevate your deer hunting experience and embrace the rugged appeal of this hunting blind today! outdoorlife

2. How to Make Deer Blind From Pallets

Transform your hunting experiences with a budget-friendly DIY box blind! Rising prices of building materials don’t need to hinder your plans. This practical guide demonstrates how simple materials like pallets, 4x4s or 2x4s, exterior grade screws, and a tarp can be repurposed into a sturdy, modular hunting blind.

Designed to be accessible, the structure requires basic tools like a drill, sawzall, and tape measure. This encourages family participation, offering a fun outlet for your kids to sketch out the plan.

From gathering materials to setting up the structure, this guide provides a step-by-step process, ensuring that anyone with some initiative can set up their box blind. It’s a rewarding project that enhances your hunting experience and brings family bonding time. Get started today and make lasting memories with your loved ones. themeateater

3. How to Build a Mobile Deer Blind

Unleash your inner craftsman with a DIY mobile deer blind on a running gear project! This intriguing endeavor starts with affordable farm running gear and involves the construction of a 4×4 frame, 2×6 floor, and 3/4″ plywood floor. It offers a blend of green-treated and standard materials, with unique features like angled corner walls, bow windows, and sliding horizontal windows for an optimal viewing experience.

Unique elements include a cost-effective door with a combo handle for security and noise-damping acoustic foam panels. You can personalize your mobile deer blind with creativity, akin to the joy of painting happy little trees on its exterior.

The result? A functional, transportable deer blind offering an exceptional view from inside, further enhanced with magnetic window screens and a blackout curtain. Get ready to build this fantastic piece, engaging adults and kids in a fun-filled, hands-on activity. Perfect for all DIY enthusiasts out there! bowhunting

4. Homemade Tree Stand Blind

If you love hunting, you’ll love these DIY deer blind plans that will help you build your own deer blind that is comfortable and effective. Envelop yourself in nature with this comprehensive guide to constructing a DIY deer stand blind. Made to provide an elevated and sheltered view for deer watching, this 6′ x 6′ structure is an immersive outdoor project that ensures a cost-effective and rewarding experience. Materials include treated timber, decking boards, plywood panels, corrugated red asphalt roof panels, metal brackets, PVC pipes, and assorted hardware.

Not to forget, several cans of camouflage spray paint blend your blind with the surroundings seamlessly. The building process is a meticulous blend of planning, assembling, and finishing, focusing on stability and longevity. From crafting the platform and frame to installing a sturdy ladder and comfortable seating, each step is outlined clearly, ensuring a smooth construction journey.

Enjoy the tranquility of nature in your deer stand blind, a unique and purposeful addition to your outdoor space. So go ahead, gather your tools, and embark on this nature-oriented project to witness the harmony and allure of the wild from the comfort of your deer stand blind. instructables

5. Building Your Own Platform Deer Stand

Enjoy the captivating view of your rural surroundings with your DIY deer stand, built to withstand the elements and provide a unique vantage point for observing wildlife. With the help of a cordless hammer drill and impact driver combo kit, this project uses sturdy dimensional lumber to construct a safe and secure platform. Explore your property’s wildlife, from colorful birds to majestic deer, all from your homemade perch.

Building a deer stand starts with a solid foundation of 2×6 pressure-treated lumber, precisely structured for balance and strength. The framework is further fortified with Timberlake screws, made effortless by the robust tools from the Milwaukee M18 FUEL line.

The project proves to be an exciting endeavor, not just as a means of observing wildlife but also as a functional structure for seasonal hunting. Before embarking on this project, comply with local zoning laws and building codes for safety. So gear up, engage with the outdoors, and make an enduring symbol of your love for nature with your deer stand. homefixated

6. Inexpensive DIY Hunting Blind

Learn the art of building effective DIY hunting blinds. These blinds hide hunters from their prey, allowing for a more successful hunting season. This project covers three unique designs – the box stand, the hay bale blind, and the natural blind. With each design explained in detail, you’ll understand the cost, materials required, and step-by-step instructions for construction.

The box stand is an elaborate structure that can comfortably accommodate two people. It requires treated lumber, plywood, and corrugated tin sheets for a $100-$300 budget. The hay bale blind is simpler, leveraging existing hay bales in a field to camouflage the hunter, requiring a minimal budget of about $100.

Lastly, the natural blind is a cost-free structure built using surrounding vegetation. Building hunting blinds brings utility and helps make a stronger bond with nature. This cost-effective guide helps you maintain the age-old hunting tradition while ensuring safety and comfort. whitetailproperties

7. Making Your Own 5×5 Deer Blind

Breathe new life into your hunting experience with a DIY 5×5 deer blind project. This unique project utilizes sturdy 2x4s for framing and painted OSB for walls, topped with lightweight steel roofing, making a durable yet affordable deer blind. Its total construction cost rings up at just around $300. This project is easy in difficulty level, inviting everyone to try. The result? A durable, functional, and cost-efficient deer blind that’s perfect for your next hunting adventure. Embark on this project and showcase your skills while benefiting from the functionality of a custom-made deer blind. howtospecialist

8. How to Make a Deer Stand at Home

Prepare for deer season with this comprehensive guide to building your elevated DIY deer stand! This hands-on project provides an exceptional view 17 feet up and includes optional elements for comfort and concealment, such as a blind and roof.

You’ll work with common materials like 16-footer 2x4s and a nail gun to assemble the ladder and frame, ensuring your stand is secure and practical. With careful measurements, cutting, and assembly, you’ll attach the ladder to the frame, strengthen the structure, and add the roof and side panels.

Additionally, the stand offers two design options: a simpler single deer stand or a slightly more complex double deer stand, catering to your specific hunting needs. Harness your craftsmanship to make this innovative deer stand and elevate your hunting experience! diytyler

9. Free Wooden Deer Stand Plan

A deer blind is a must-have for any hunter. Learn how to make your own with these DIY deer blind plans that are easy and inexpensive. Immerse yourself in the thrill of the hunt with the ultimate homemade box deer hunting stand! Expertly built with an emphasis on stability, portability, and affordability, this DIY hunting stand offers optimal concealment and protection from the elements as you pursue your game. Constructed primarily from 2×4 pieces, this stand includes a 4’x4′ platform approximately 6 feet off the ground, complete with a roof for added shelter.

Customize your stand with as many shooting windows as required at your preferred height. The beauty of this project is its transportability – the components fit snugly into the back of a pickup truck, enabling fast assembly on-site with just a single ratchet wrench.

If you’ve multiple hunting locations on your property, this cost-effective solution, estimated at around $150, offers the ideal alternative to expensive commercial options. Now it’s time to gather your tools, source your materials, and build your perfect hunting vantage point! freedeerstandplans

10. How to Make a Deer Stand

Transform your hunting experience with this practical and moveable DIY deer stand. This detailed guide will lead you through making a sturdy, weather-resistant deer stand using basic materials such as cedar, pine, or redwood lumber and plywood. The design includes a floor, sides, a front face, a back face, and a roof, ensuring a comfortable and secure perch for your hunting expeditions.

Follow the step-by-step instructions to accurately measure, cut, and assemble each component. Remember the importance of drilling pilot holes for a tighter lock and right-angled corners for a professional result.

The structure can be easily disassembled and relocated according to your hunting needs. The highlight of this deer stand is its portability, enabling you to adjust to changing wildlife patterns. Enhance your outdoor experience with our free deer stand plans today. myoutdoorplans

11. 8 X 8 Hexagonal Bow Deer Blind Building Plans

Make a spacious hunting hideaway with this simple DIY blind construction guide! The aim is to make a blind that comfortably fits a family and can be assembled in a garage and transported for assembly. You’ll need 2x4s, 4x4s, 1/2″ plywood, gate hinges, blind windows, paint, and blind platform brackets.

Begin by assembling an 8’x8′ base using the platform brackets. Build individual panels for the front and sides, attach them to the platform, and secure them to each other. Build an “L” shaped frame for the rear wall and ceiling joists. Cut out the door, attach the roof, add shingles, and paint. This versatile blind will add a practical and enjoyable feature to hunting trips. reckonill

12. How to Make Your Own 4×6 Elevated Deer Blind

Revamp your outdoor experience with a DIY 4×6 elevated deer blind! This fun family project is practical and rewarding, perfect for enthusiastic nature lovers. Using common tools, such as a hammer, saw, and drill, you’ll work together to construct a sturdy structure elevated for an optimized view.

The process incorporates materials like Plexiglass for windows, enhancing visibility while maintaining the shelter. This unique design also features window dividers on each 6′ side, catering to your personalized viewing needs.

Building this deer blind offers a fun, engaging activity that brings families closer while honing woodworking skills. Plus, the end product provides an ideal spot for wildlife observation, capturing those elusive deer moments like never before. So, get your tools ready and embrace the adventure of building today! myoutdoorplans

13. Build a Ladder Stand for Deer Hunting

Delve into the craft of building a DIY ladder stand for deer hunting. Constructing your own provides cost savings, customization, and a unique perspective for a successful hunt. This guide takes you through six key steps, from choosing the perfect tree to testing the final setup. Materials needed include 2×4 inch treated lumber or cedar beams, plywood for the seat, and an array of tools.

It emphasizes that a ladder stand is not just an impressive feat but a vital tool for hunting, offering a bird’s eye view of the area and excellent camouflage. But remember, safety is paramount; always use a safety harness and routinely inspect your tree for stability. This guide gets you closer to a fulfilling hunting experience. deerproject

14. Small Deer Stand Design

Make your hunting experience even more memorable with the perfect DIY small deer stand design! This woodworking task can be completed in three days at approximately $250. All the necessary supplies can easily be procured, marking it an easy-level task.

The resulting deer stand is an impressive testament to your craftsmanship, showcasing your skills to the world. Not only does it offer a practical application for nature enthusiasts, but it also provides a satisfying creative outlet.

The project plan, available on the provided link, makes the process manageable and enjoyable. Build your deer stand today and immerse in the thrill of DIY woodworking! howtospecialist

15. Build Your Own Deer Stand

A deer blind can improve your hunting experience and success. Find out how to make your own with these DIY deer blind plans that are detailed and practical. Embark on a self-sustainable journey with a DIY elevated deer stand that will bring a fun and practical addition to your homesteading adventure. This tutorial demonstrates how to build a 4×8 elevated deer stand or hunting blind, proving functional and engaging. Anyone can enhance their woodland spaces with minimal equipment and a do-it-yourself spirit.

As they utilize their 18-acre land, they inspire others to embrace simple and sustainable lifestyles, turning dreams into reality. Every step in their process, from suburban life to rural homesteading, brims with useful insights and wholesome experiences.

This tutorial doesn’t just guide you in making a deer stand; it fosters a deeper connection with nature and stirs the innate human desire for simplicity and sustainability. Build your deer stand today and start your adventure!

16. DIY Gaint Deer Hunting Blind With Scrap Wood

Venture into the world of DIY wildlife ventures with a comprehensive guide on building a deer hunting blind using scrap wood. This project is an ideal opportunity for outdoors enthusiasts, promoting resourcefulness, creativity, and eco-friendly practices.

You’ll require basic tools and equipment, such as a hammer, saw, screws, and scrap wood. Preparation involves sourcing your materials and selecting an optimal location for your hunting blind. Following step-by-step instructions, you’ll build a sturdy and practical hunting blind, enhancing your hunting experience.

This innovative project utilizes waste materials and fosters a deeper connection with nature. The scrap wood serves as the main ingredient in this exciting project. Relevant to those interested in hunting, DIY projects, and sustainable practices, this giant homemade deer hunting blind promises an engaging, informative, and rewarding experience.

17. Homemade 7×7 Deer Stand

Gear up for a hands-on experience with this detailed guide on crafting your 7×7 deer stand! This unique project adds to your hunting skills and provides a practical and comfortable shooting box blind designed for effective deer hunting.

With this DIY guide, you’ll gain insights into building a sturdy 7×7 blind on top of a deer stand platform, all accomplished within an impressive 3-day timeline.

Learn how to enhance your outdoor adventures and foster your passion for hunting through this well-explained DIY deer stand walkthrough. It’s time to boost your hunting efficiency and enjoy an elevated perspective of your hunting terrain!

18. DIY 2×4 Deer Stand With Box Blind

Building your own deer blind can be a rewarding and fun project. Follow these DIY deer blind plans that will guide you step by step. Craft your hunting hideout with this DIY 2×4 deer stand and box blind – the perfect way to get close to wildlife! Perched 17′ high, this DIY stand offers a wide viewpoint and conceals you comfortably as you wait for whitetails.

Its construction materials include Ondura Premium Panels, which provide added concealment, with various tools like Counter Sink Bit, Better Vue Screen, and Kreg Forman, to mention a few.

The process is straightforward, and the end product serves the purpose effectively. Furthermore, the stand incorporates an optional blind and roof to enhance your hunting experience. Build your deer stand now and get ready for a productive deer season.

19. Cheap DIY Deer Stand in 10 Easy Steps

Boost your hunting experience with an economical yet effective DIY deer stand built by your hands! Understand the essence of constructing a sturdy, scent-free deer stand through a simple and concise 10-step process. The guide is designed to be customizable, fitting your precise requirements without the need to overspend on brands.

You can craft your hunting tower by incorporating resources like durable wood, common tools, and insightful tips. Appreciate the thrill of deer hunting from a vantage point crafted by you, adding an extra layer of satisfaction to your outdoor adventures.

The process will save you money and arm you with a skill useful for many hunting seasons. Build your affordable deer stand today and experience hunting like never before!

20. Simple DIY Deer Blind on a Budget

The perfect solution for the outdoorsman on a budget, build your DIY deer blind and get ready to make memories! With careful planning and a budget of around $500, you can build a robust 6×6 blind with a 7′ roof, elevated 6 feet off the ground, boasting a unique trap door entry.

It’s the perfect solution for those facing high wood costs but wanting to experience the benefits of a quality deer blind. This project results in a sturdy structure that fits the financial plan and meets the creator’s vision and satisfaction.

Look forward to detailed plans, available for free download soon that will guide you through the build process, offering clear instructions for an even more optimized design in the coming season. Make sure to follow the progress and start preparing for your own elevated box blind project.

21. DIY Custom Deer Blind

Take your hunting experience to another level with an insane custom DIY deer blind build, complete with a 32″ TV and 10,000 BTU Heater! This unique project brings comfort and convenience to your hunting activities, providing you with the ultimate hunting hub in the wilderness.

The materials needed include a ProCom MG10TBF 10,000 BTU Heater, a 32″ TV, an assortment of screws, an air fan, a flush mount, and more. With the right preparation, you’ll build a deer blind that provides an optimal vantage point and keeps you comfortable during long waits.

This project blends the thrill of hunting with the luxuries of home, making it a unique approach to outdoor pursuits. The step-by-step guide to building this great deer blind is straightforward and rewarding, giving you an elevated hunting experience. Transform your hunting activities today with this ultimate project!

22. Build Your Own Shooting House

Unleash your creativity in building a low-cost box blind for deer hunting with an insightful DIY guide that provides an efficient solution in preparing for the hunting season. This simple yet highly effective structure is built from readily available materials, making it a budget-friendly option.

The build requires a few tools and a dash of handiwork but promises excellent results in the form of a sturdy, practical shooting house.

Despite its uncomplicated design, it offers comfort and convenience for hunting enthusiasts, underlining its effectiveness as a significant asset for a successful deer season. Make the most of your hunting experience by building this user-friendly, cost-effective box blind today.

23. Building a 6×8 Octagonal Elevated Box Deer Blind

Gear up to take your hunting game to a new level with a 6×8 octagonal elevated DIY box blind. Designed to accommodate two adults, this spacious blind offers strategic visibility and comfort. With sheet goods optimization in mind, its dimensions have been tweaked to 5’10” x 7’10”, facilitating material utilization and cost-effectiveness.

It uniquely features a trap door entry for a discreet approach. Though you might not see significant savings from this optimization in a single build, multiple constructions will benefit. Embrace the thrill of the hunt in this well-designed and crafted blind. Start building today to enhance your outdoor adventures!

24. Portable DIY Hunting Blind

Explore the intriguing process of constructing a portable deer blind on a truck bed trailer, as depicted in a comprehensive DIY tutorial. This simple yet effective blind design aims to exchange ideas, spark creativity, and generate discussions among individuals eager to build their mobile blinds.

The guide also outlines potential custom additions, such as camouflage mesh curtains, gun racks, heater mounts, shelves, and hooks, that can be integrated into the design to enhance its functionality.

This cost-effective project offers an exciting DIY challenge and a practical application for outdoor enthusiasts. Embrace the joy of building your portable deer blind and make your hunting experiences more convenient and enjoyable.

25. Easy DIY Deer Blind Under $500

Intensify your hunting adventures with a functional DIY deer blind built for under $500! This shooting house is both cost-efficient and easy to construct, raising the bar of your hunting experience. With accessible supplies such as lumber, screws, and roofing materials, you’ll build a sturdy, reliable structure.

Preparations are simple: measure, cut, and organize your materials beforehand. You’ll follow a systematic construction guide that ensures your deer blind stands strong and true. Imagine peering out from your elevated perch, blending seamlessly into the environment, waiting for the perfect shot.

This deer blind is remarkable for its practicality, enhancing your hunting skills while providing a comfortable shelter. Build your deer blind today and elevate your hunting game to unseen heights. It’s informative, helpful, and engaging – a worthwhile project!

Conclusion:

In conclusion, these 25 free DIY deer blind plans offer various options for constructing deer blinds and stands to suit various preferences and budgets. Ranging from pallet-based designs to elevated options and even mobile blinds, these DIY deer blind plans cater to hunters at different skill levels. Utilizing homemade DIY deer stand plans coupled with creativity and resourcefulness, anyone can build a cost-effective and functional deer blind. So, gear up, pick a plan, and start making your very own customized deer hunting experience.

Dogs are considered man’s best friend for a number of reasons; they are loyal, loving, affectionate, and they can be trained to do amazing things. Police departments and law officials use them to locate narcotics, firearms, and explosives with their keen sense of smell. But did you know that dogs can help you find antler sheds as well? If you’re interested in training your dog to find antlers, continue reading and I’ll tell you how you can train them to become your new favorite shed hunting buddy.

Benefits of Using a Dog To Find Antlers

• A dog’s sense of smell is far superior to that of a human’s. Using their nose, they can sniff out and locate shed antlers that people like you and me wouldn’t be able to find.
• Dogs are able to get into thick, dense brush to retrieve antlers.
• It’s a heck of a lot more fun taking a dog with you to hunt for sheds than doing it alone!

My Antler-Hunting Dog

Let me first start off by saying that I’m not a professional dog trainer, and when I got my Golden Labrador Retriever, Jesse, I had no intention of training her to become a shed-hunting dog. In fact, I originally wasn’t even aware people trained dogs to find antlers. Not long after getting her, though, one of my hunting buddies saw my dog and was telling me about how he had seen someone train their Lab to sniff out sheds in the woods. With this knowledge at hand, I thought I might as well try and train Jesse. After all, the only thing I had to lose was time, and I enjoyed spending time with Jesse.

After talking with some people who trained their dogs to find antlers, and scouring the internet for advice on training Labradors, I had a good idea of how to train her. What I didn’t know, though, was just how quickly she would catch on. Jesse now goes on every antler hunt I go on and is almost certain to find more sheds than I do. Anytime I bring along buddies or guests on shed-hunting trips, they are always amazed at her uncanny ability to find sheds.

Which Breeds Are The Best Shed Hunters?

I’ve only trained my Lab, Jesse, to find sheds, so I really can’t say what the best shed-hunting breed is. I do know Labrador Retrievers are one of the most popular breeds for this because of their intelligence, sense of smell and ability to obey commands. I’ve also heard that Dachshunds can be trained to be effective shed hunters.

The most important thing, though, is making sure your dog will obey and follow your commands in the woods. Dogs that run off at the sight of a squirrel or any other animal create a dangerous situation.

The Basics of Training

Before you start, you’re going to need lots of treats (milk biscuits work well) and lots of antlers. You can either go out and try to find some sheds in the woods, or you can buy them online. Remember, only authentic antlers work, as fake ones don’t carry the same scent and feel. Try to get ones that are fresh and not completely sun bleached or dried out. Old antlers are likely to have lost a significant portion of their scent, making it difficult for your dog to locate them by smell.

Step #1 – Introducing Deer Antlers

You’ll want to give deer antlers to your dog as early as possible to get them used to the look, feel, and scent that they give off. This is one of the keys to successfully training your dog to find sheds in the wild. Try tossing some deer antler sheds out in the yard and say a command, such as “go get it” or “get the antlers.” If your dog obeys your command and successfully retrieves the antlers, give them a treat followed by lots of petting and praise. Positive reinforcement goes a long way when it comes to any form of dog training and/or obedience.

Don’t worry if your dog won’t immediately go after the antler. You may need to get them used to playing with it by putting it under their nose and almost teasing them with it. This shouldn’t be difficult, as most dogs will grow fond of playing antlers pretty quickly. Dogs instinctively love to fetch items thrown by their owners, so toss them out in the yard and let them chase them. Once they bring it back, give them a treat.

Step #2 – Hide-And-Seek

Once your dog is accustomed to the scent of deer antlers, it’s time to step up its training to the next level. Assuming you have access to some woods or a forest, hide a couple of them in moderately difficult areas. Place them underneath some leaves about 30 to 40 yards apart and give your dog the fetch command that you’ve previously trained them with.

If they don’t immediately go after the antlers, which they probably won’t on their first try, just walk over to the areas with the antlers and see if your dog can sense it. When they’ve found it, them a treat and lots of praise. Keep doing this once a day and you should see start to see improvements in how fast your dog is able to uncover the antlers.

Step #3 – The “Real” Thing

Once your dog has some training under their belt, it’s time to take them out on a real antler hunt with you. Just go about your search as you normally would, walking down trails and scanning your surroundings. Hopefully, your dog will pick up on the scent of a nearby shed and follow it. Keep your dog in sight and call them back if they try to run off without you. Once they find an antler, continue with the reward and praise. Alternatively, if you see an antler that your dog doesn’t, say the fetch command and let them uncover it.

That’s really all there is to training your dog to find antlers. Just keep taking your dog out there on your hunts and give them the opportunity to find the sheds. Keep rewarding your dog when they make a find and before you know it, your dog will be uncovering sheds left and right.

Tips For Training Your Dog To Find Antlers

• Always be positive and reward your dog with a treat and praise when they find an antler. If they don’t find anything, don’t punish or scold them.
• Keep your training sessions short. Typically, a single 20-to-30-minute session per day is more than enough needed to train.
• Let your dog play with antlers and use them as chew toys. Not only will this allow them to get used to the antlers, but antlers contain beneficial nutrients like calcium.
• Always keep your dog in sight, and if they run too far away, call them back. It’s dangerous for dogs to chase after animals in the woods.
• If you haven’t done so already, you’ll want to train your dog basic commands, such as sit, stay and come. This will help make sure your dog is obedient and will obey your commands when you’re out in the woods.

Video of Zeke Learning How To Find Antler Sheds

How To Choose The Right Mobile Ham Radio?

Durability, Build Standards and Build Quality

You don’t want your ham radio to die on you when you rely on it the most, which is why durability is one of the most important things to consider when you are picking out a radio.

Some ham radios designed for mobile use, similar to handheld ham radios are built and tested according to strict military standards for shockproofing, waterproofing, and even mold. These are the best ham radios for you if you like to drive your Jeep through rocky and muddy roads.

Even if you are buying a radio for your base station or home setup, you should still opt for something that is built well. These units might not be waterproofed or encased in steel, but the quality of the buttons and knobs should be good enough to withstand frequent use.

Transmission Power Output

Many amateur radio users make the mistake of prioritizing high-power ham radios for their vehicles. After all, the higher the transmission power, the further it transmits, right?

While this is technically true, it shouldn’t be the only thing you look for when you are in the market for mobile radio. The transmission power you need depends on the type of communication you want to engage in.There is no sense in choosing a powerful 50 watts ham radio if you want to use your radio as an emergency unit – a normal two-way radio or VHF/UHF radio of up to 5W would suffice. But if you want to connect with other amateur radio operators all over the world, you would want a mobile radio that offers at least 25-50 watts of power.

At any rate, you should buy a radio that is compatible with an external antenna. This gives you the option to expand your coverage when you need it the most.

User-friendly And Intuitive Menu Setup & Operation

Ease of use is a must when choosing the best mobile ham radio. You don’t want to be distracted by scrolling through menu options when you are driving.

Well-designed ham radios utilize the hand mic for better one-handed control. These designs often include programmable buttons, frequency toggles, and a keypad. Moreover, some radios have a 180 degrees rotatable screen for easy monitoring.

When it comes to menu design, we would recommend choosing a radio that uses a streamlined menu system. Besides being more convenient, a bloated menu can also be frustrating and overwhelming.

Weight, Size And Phisical Factors

You can mount most radios in your dash with a mounting bracket. However, as they tend to get very hot, you might have to consider an alternate spot for your radio if you drive all day. Besides that, getting a bulky and heavy radio can also hamper your efforts to move it around.

Scan Function And Memory Storage

Scan function and memory storage allow you to scan available frequencies and save any channels that you like.

It is much easier to have a one-click scanning feature since you would most likely be driving when you use a mobile ham radio. Typically, you get about 200 slots in your channel storage, which is more than enough for most people.

Newer models offer more robust and convenient saving features. For example, some save your scanning preference so you don’t have to set it up again if your radio reboots. Some save your settings, like volume control and squelch, along with the frequency and channel names.

Today I’m going to show you the best muzzleloader scope.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over 10 scopes alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best muzzleloader scopes, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

How to Choose a Muzzleloader Scope

Optics can be a crazy expensive addition to your firearm.

But don’t just go throw any old scope on top of your boom stick.

There are considerations you need to make in your purchase, and you need to be more selective if you’re putting an optic on your muzzleloader.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

One of the most important aspects of choosing a scope is to consider the glass quality. You can only shoot as well as you can see. And if you can’t see well through your new optic, you wasted your money.

Higher end scopes from brands like Nikon and Leupold will have excellent glass with crystal clear picture clarity and color fidelity.

If you choose a more affordable scope, don’t cut corners on glass. Vortex Optics makes many scopes that fall in affordable price ranges while still having a wonderfully bright sight picture.

When choosing a scope, you want to pick one that lists having fully coated lenses. This means that all of the exterior lenses have a coating that increases light transmission to your eye-this will give you a bright sight picture.

Ideally, getting fully multi-coated lenses is best. This means that all of the lenses have many coatings that improve the light transmission and cut down on glare. You’ll get a clear and bright view through the optic. And the anti-glare coatings will prevent objective lens reflections that could give away your position.

The reticle you chose is up to you. You can choose to get a reticle that is hashed to account for bullet drop (BDC reticle) to help you estimate holdover for your shots. Some shooters prefer a clean and simple duplex crosshair. I’m not sure if an illuminated reticle is really beneficial for a muzzleloader, but if you want one, no one will stop you.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

As a muzzleloader shooter, eye relief is a spec that you can’t ignore like some centerfire riflists do.

If you have an eye relief that is shorter than 3 inches, your scope is going to scrape off your eyebrow when you shoot. That’s both painful and embarrassing.

Save yourself the trouble and get a longer eye relief scope with at least 4 inches.

You also want a generous eye box with room to adjust behind your optic and still get a good sight picture. The bigger your ocular lens is, the better this feature will be.

Durability

If a scope isn’t listed as being o-ring sealed. Pass on it. It’s worth spending your hard earned money on an o-ring sealed optic. This makes it rain and waterproof.

You also should look at getting a scope that is argon or nitrogen purged. This will not only help with light transmission but will keep your scope from fogging in crummy weather.

You don’t want a hunt ruined by less than ideal weather. Invest in a durable optic from the start.

Another special consideration for muzzleloaders is to make sure that the scope you choose is shockproof or recoil proof. Your firearm has harder recoil when you shoot compared to many centerfire rifles.

You will want a scope that can handle the extra kick.

Leupold boasts that all of its scopes must survive 5,000 rounds on the Punisher- a device that mimics recoil 3x stronger than a .308.

Vortex also makes nearly indistructive scopes that are a bit more budget friendly.

No matter which brand you choose, do your homework and sift through product reviews looking for durability or other shooters using it on a muzzleloader.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

Elevation and windage knobs, also called turrets, are what you use to make fine-tuning adjustments to your scope. You use these to zero your optic, or adjust it so that your shots actually land where you’re aiming.

The elevation turret will move your shot up and down. The windage turret will adjust your shot from left to right.

Ideally, you want turrets that have a tactile and audible click that you can hear and feel when making adjustments.

Getting locking turrets that can not be accidentally turned are a nice feature, but those will add to the cost. Less expensive optics will have capped turrets with screw on caps that cover both turrets.

Some brands will send you elevation turrets that are marked to compensate for bullet drop for your particular load upon request.

Parallax & Magnification

Centerfire rifle scopes often have the parallax fixed at 100-150 yards for centerfire rifles. That’s pushing the range for a muzzleloader, where parallax should be fixed to about 75 yards.

If you want to put a centerfire rifle scope on your muzzleloader, you need to take this into consideration.

Some more expensive scopes have a side parallax adjustment so you can lock it out for your shooting distance.

Some brands will factory adjust it for you if you send your new scope to them.

A muzzleloading rifle cannot fire shots that move as fast or as far as centerfire rounds. You will not be making shots from several hundred yards away from your prey, so don’t go crazy on magnification.

A high powered scope will hurt more than it helps because it will bring your target too close to you. If you take a high powered scope on your next deer hunt, all you’ll be able to see will be a big hairy patch on the animal’s hide-if you can even find the animal at all.

High powered scopes will have a narrow field of view too-which will make it harder for you to spot your target.

When looking at scopes, the magnification is the first set of numbers before the “x”, so 1-5×24 would be a scope with magnification powers that will make your target 1 to 5 times bigger than what you can see with your naked eye.

You don’t want anything higher than 5x.

Many muzzleloading minutemen prefer a 1-5x or even 1x, 2x, or 3x fixed magnification. For muzzleloading, smaller magnification is better.

The number after the “x” is the size of the objective lens (the lens at the end of the scope) in millimeters. A 1-5×24 scope has an objective lens that’s 24 mm in diameter.

You can look here for a list of the best 1-4x scopes.

Mounting & Rings

Because your muzzleloader kicks like a mule compared to many centerfire rifles, it will do a number on your scope and the equipment you use to attach it.

You want to be sure to use a solid mount (if you need an aftermarket one) and solid rings. You don’t want to cut corners on your mounting hardware.

Here’s a great video that will help you pick top notch mounting hardware:

Final Thoughts

You can easily pick a top-notch scope for your muzzleloader. You just need to keep a few key points in mind.

You want:

• Quality Glass
• Low magnification
• Highly durable scope design
• At least 4 inches of eye relief
• Heavy duty mounting hardware

With these 5 things in mind, you’ll be able to pick an optic-at any price range- that will fit your budget and your needs.

If you’re also looking for an ACOG, look here.

The 4 Best Muzzleloader Scope

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best muzzleloader scope:

1. Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32: Best Overall
2. Bushnell Banner 3-9×50: Best Muzzleloader Scope Under $100
3. Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40: Best Long Range Muzzleloader Scope
4. Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40: Best for the Budget

1. Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32: Best Overall

The Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 is the best overall scope on the market, especially for hunters.

In fact, it’s got all the features and qualities that you could need at an affordable price that won’t break the bank.

I put this on my AR-15 to test it out months ago and have yet to take it off because it works so well.

Want to hear more? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The first time I looked into this scope I was surprised to find the glass was just as clear as other scopes that are twice the price!

The lenses are fully multi-coated, which means you get a nice, bright sight picture, even in the midday sun.

The Dead-Hold BDC reticle is my favorite part of the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32.

Having a bullet drop compensation reticle means that you’ll easily be able to estimate your holdover at varying distances, even as far out as 500 yards.

The reticle is second focal plane, which means that it doesn’t change size with magnification. With 1.75-5x magnification, this works great.

If you had a higher magnification to shoot at extra long distances, you might need the reticle to increase in size. But since I’m not using this scope for 3-gun competitions, my average prey is usually only around 100-300 yards.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 has 3.5-3.7 inches of eye relief.

If I have one complaint about this scope, it’s that the eye relief does seem to be a little unforgiving, depending what you mount it on.

On my AR-15 it’s tolerable with a good cheek weld, but on something like 6.5 Creedmoor, it would be pretty tight.

However, I do really love that this scope has a fast focus eyepiece. This allows you to get the reticle focused quickly.

Target acquisition is fast and easy, almost as good as a prism scope or red dot sight.

Durability

This scope is built like a tank and can handle whatever you throw at it.

It’s a one-piece tube with a hard anodized finish that can take a beating. This finish also helps to keep your setup camouflaged when you’re out hunting.

Plus, it’s O-ring sealed and Argon purged, which makes it waterproof and fogproof.

If that’s not enough, it’s backed by Vortex’s unlimited lifetime warranty that covers anything that could go wrong.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are ¼ MOA click adjustments.

The turrets give nice, audible clicks and have a zero reset under the caps.

Speaking of zeroing, it couldn’t be easier. After only a handful of shots, I was hitting a half inch target easily and exceptionally accurately.

And, after at least 400 rounds or so, the zero has held. I even accidentally dropped it on the gravel road and it was still dead on.

Parallax & Magnification

The Vortex Diamondback has 1.75-5x magnification.

This is the perfect range for brush hunting and big game hunting. It gives you an accurate sight picture from 100-500 yards easily.

For deer hunting, you’ll be hard pressed to find a scope that’s better than this one.

As for parallax, it’s fixed at 100 yards and I really haven’t noticed a problem.

Mounting & Rings

This scope is an excellent value, but you will need to buy your own mount.

I’d recommend getting Vortex Pro Series Rings. That’s what I used and they’re great.

As for other accessories, it doesn’t come with much. Just removable lens caps. I’d suggest getting some flip-up caps like the Vortex Optics Defender Flip Caps.

Is the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 worth it?

This scope is really the best overall scope for hunters, with all the features you need.

It has:

• Audible click turrets
• Fast focus eyepiece
• 1.75-5x magnification
• Dead-Hold BDC reticle
• Fully multi-coated lenses
• Shockproof, waterproof, fogproof

If you’re an avid hunter and want a scope that has all the features you’ll need to bag your prey, try the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32. You won’t be disappointed.

2. Bushnell Banner 3-9×50: Best Muzzleloader Scope Under $100

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is by far the most elite budget friendly muzzleloader scope I have found throughout my hunting career.

Not only does the scope come in at an amazing price, but the quality and attention to detail is apparent.

If you want to learn why this scope hasn’t come off my muzzleloader setup since the day I purchased it stick around.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is a scope with unbelievable brightness and glass clarity.

Even with the impressively low price, Bushnell did not sacrifice any quality with the building of this scope.

The dusk and dawn brightness multi coated lens provides amazing improvements to both the clarity and brightness of the scope.

In addition, the scope has a fast-focus eyepiece that makes target acquisition even easier.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 gives me great confidence whether I am out for a day on the range or sitting in a tree stand during muzzleloader season.

The reticle that comes on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is the multi-x reticle.

This was my first experience with this particular reticle and I am really enjoying it so far. I tend to be slightly picky about my reticle and this one has fit my shooting style unbelievably well.

This scope was an absolute dream addition to my muzzleloader setup.

Not being my main form of hunting, I try to keep my muzzleloader setup on a tight budget and the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 fit right into that.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is very forgiving and a great option for any setup.

I have found that with the forgiving eye relief, the sight can be mounted in a comfortable position on any firearm.

I have used this primarily on my slug shotgun setup and muzzleloader setup.

It would also work great on any other rimfire options.

In addition, the scope has a fantastic field of view which makes this a great option for any hunting setup.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has got to be one of the best budget muzzleloader scopes I have used.

Also, here are some great options if you are looking for a handgun scope for those long muzzleloader hikes.

Durability

The durability so far on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has been fantastic.

My muzzleloader definitely takes the stress of long hikes and some crazy weather. This scope has seen it all and continues to perform like I just took it out of the box.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is waterproof, fogproof, shockproof, and dry-nitrogen filled.

This scope has taken a beating and keeps on going. Especially in my muzzleloader setup, I need a scope that works 100% of the time no questions asked.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage knobs have performed surprisingly well for the low price tag this scope comes in at.

Usually on budget scopes I find the turrets are often mushy and inconsistent.

This is not the case with the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50. The turrets have been precise and accountable every time I have used them.

They have well defined movement and sound that makes it a satisfactory scope to zero.

My zeroing process was surprisingly easy. I took the scope directly out to the range right after I got it.

In maybe 30 minutes I was able to achieve some of my best muzzleloader groupings at 100 yards.

In addition, I have rarely had to touch the turrets since I zerod for the first time.

This tells me that the zero holds fantastically well on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50.

Parallax & Magnification

I have been using the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 for a few months and have noticed a slight parallax as I get higher in magnification.

It is nothing excessive and certainly doesn’t hinder my shooting abilities; however, it is something that I noticed throughout my testing.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has a magnification of 3x to 9x which is perfect for my usage.

This being on my muzzleloader setup means that it is not often I am taking shots beyond 100 yards.

9x is far more magnification than is needed for a shot at that range, but it is certainly nice to have when the heart is racing and the hands are sweating.

Mounting & Rings

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 did not come with mounts so I purchased a set of Warne 1inch Quick Detach Rings in a Low Matte finish.

I ended up going for the quick detach mounts because I thought I was going to be swapping it out on my slug setup.

This was not the case and I can’t seem to take it off my muzzleloader because I like that setup so much.

I would also recommend getting Monstrum Rubberized Flip-Up Lens Covers (Objective Lens: 37-42mm).

These have been some of my favorite flip up lenses I have found to date.

Is the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 worth it?

I am very cautious about spending money on budget scopes because I am unsure how long they will last me. The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has put all of my worries to bed and has become my favorite muzzleloader scope in my entire arsenal.

Here’s why:

• Price
• Clarity
• Durability

In short: the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is a fantastic scope that will outperform scopes that cost over double the price.

If you are still unsure whether the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is the right scope for you, give it a try. I am sure you will be just as thrilled as I am.

3. Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40: Best Long Range Muzzleloader Scope

For the true muzzleloader fan, a high quality scope is a must.

Whether hunting or target shooting, accuracy with a muzzleloader can be tough.

The Leupold VX-3i can remove one part of that difficulty.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is some of the finest I’ve seen on a rifle scope.

A military-grade coating called DiamondCoat 2 is the reason. It allows maximum light transmission while being very scratch resistant. The lenses are built for life.

The DiamondCoat 2 also lets all colors of light in, so there is no tinting whatsoever, and it shows when you have a big buck sighted near twilight. The only thing brighter is night vision.

The duplex reticle is pretty plain, but for a muzzleloader it isn’t a big issue. You aren’t going to be taking game at 300 yards. It’s perfect for a muzzleloading application and many others.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

I’ve found the scope to be very comfortable on top of my modern front stuffer, then I found the reason.

Even at maximum magnification, the spec sheet on the Leupold boasts 3.6 inches of eye relief. It’s even greater at 3.5x power, a whopping inches. I could mount this thing on my shotty and fire 3.5 inch shells without worry of scope bite, much less the kick from any black powder rifle out there.

That said, you won’t need to adjust anything on your rifle’s mounting location to plop this guy on. It’ll work fine for pretty much every rifle out there on a standard rail.

Durability

Leupolds are tough. I’ve owned several over the years and this is one area where they never cut corners.

They have a special scope torture device at their lab, called the Punisher. This machine bangs the test design 5000 times with three times the force of a .308, and any design that doesn’t pass gets sent back to the drawing board.

It’s one of the main things I love about this brand. They are simply the toughest scopes out there, and the new DiamondCoat 2 coating adds another layer of military-grade durability to the lenses themselves.

They’re also waterproof to 33 feet and have a special proprietary gas blend inside to keep moisture out. They won’t fog or falter, even at 40 below.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

Super reliable turrets, but what else would you expect?

The clicks are firm and precise, which makes zeroing the scope a breeze.

It won’t be too often on your muzzleloader that windage and drop will be an issue, but if you do want to take a long shot, you know the drop on a lead ball can be tremendous.

Being able to click down for some skill shots to impress your friends is important, and the scope has an adjustment range of 52 MOA. It’ll give you the adjustment you need for any range you would ever want to shoot your muzzleloader.

Parallax & Magnification

Magnification ranges from 3.5 to 10, and adjusts easily with the smooth turning dial.

The adjustment is perfect for a muzzleloader scope. At 3.5x, you have a wide enough field of view to hunt accurately while still getting a huge boost in the accuracy of your shots, and 10x makes even the tiniest targets at 100 yards big enough to see.

10x is also a great magnification for testing the accuracy of your loads. We put so much effort into weighing bullets, picking the right wadding, carefully measuring powder, and greasing with the right lube, that it’s nice to see how reliable all that work really is at the range.

If there was a complaint about this scope, it would be that the parallax is non-adjustable. It’s set at 150 yards with Leupold. But again, for hunting or target shooting, the scope is still going to be tighter than most muzzleloader groups.

Plus cheek rest is a skill, and most of use wouldn’t be shooting black powder if we didn’t like a challenge.

If you won’t need the high magnification, of course, you might consider something designed for a battle rifle.

Mounting & Rings

No rings are included with the scope, and while any ole one-inch rings will do the trick, you are pairing a rugged muzzleloader to a rugged scope. Prudence dictates using something sturdy to do it, like Leupold Permanent Weaver-Style Cross-Slot rings.

Leupold also makes lens covers to work with their VX-3 line.

Is the Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40 worth it?

If you are looking for a budget scope, this probably isn’t it. That said, one feature of the VX-3i is that it was designed to be a bit more wallet friendly than some other Leupold scopes.

If you want the absolute best value in a quality scope for your muzzleloader, this is the one.

Let’s recap.

• Crystal clear view
• Military-grade coatings
• Tremendously long eye-relief
• Passed Leupold’s torture testing
• Great magnification range for muzzleloaders

And it comes with the best lifetime guarantee in the world of shooting.

Really, you can’t go wrong with the Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40 scope. It’s the obvious choice.

4. Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40: Best for the Budget

The Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 is a versatile scope and great quality for the price.

In fact, it’s less than half the cost of other brands and has most of the same features and qualities.

I am an avid hunter and use this scope regularly on my trips.

Want to know why? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

With this scope you’ll get a sharp, bright image.

The glass is high quality and the scope has multi-coated lenses to cut down on glare and give you a crystal clear sight picture.

And what about the reticle?

The Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 has a Truplex reticle, as it says in the name. What that means is that the edge of the posts are thicker and then the crosshairs thin out towards the center.

This makes it much easier to target in low light and thicker background brush. It also makes target acquisition super quick and easy.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

You’ll get 3.75 inches of eye relief with this scope.

That’s pretty great compared to most similar scopes. And it means you won’t have to worry about how much your rifle kicks.

Plus, the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 has Quick Target Acquistion (QTA) eyepiece. This, along with the Truplex reticle, makes target acquisition incredibly fast. And easily comparable to something like a red dot sight.

Durability

Even though this scope is extremely affordable compared to most, Simmons didn’t stinge on the materials or features.

It is O-ring sealed, making it completely waterproof. And, it has a nitrogen purged housing too. So you don’t have to worry about your optic fogging up.

It’s also recoilproof and can handle whatever caliber rifle you want to put this scope on.

From personal experience, I can tell you that the Simmons customer service is excellent. So, even if you have a problem, you can rest assured they’ll take care of you.

And Simmons makes a lot of other products too, including scope for air rifles. Which means if you love the Truplex reticle, you can get it in different types of scopes.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are easy to adjust and give you ¼ MOA adjustment clicks.

This scope has the TrueZero elevation and windage adjustment system, which gives you a locked in zero.

And speaking of zeroing, it only took me about 15 minutes, if that, to get this scope set.

The TrueZero system helps the scope hold zero extremely well. I’ve taken mine hunting many times and never had to readjust.

Parallax & Magnification

You’ll get a lot of versatility with this scope because it has a variable magnification of 3-9x.

With that range, you can shoot accurately from around 100 yard out to about 900 max.

Which makes this scope the perfect attachment for your hunting rifle. I use it mainly for varmint hunting, but feel confident I could take bigger game at greater distances with this scope.

It’s also great for just target plinking and is a lot of fun to use for shooting at the range.

Plus, the parallax is fixed at 100 yards and I haven’t had any noticeable issues with it.

Mounting & Rings

The downside to this scope is that it doesn’t come with a mount.

But, when you’re buying a scope at such a great price, you can’t expect to get too many accessories.

I went with AccuShot Picatinny/Weaver Medium Profile 2-piece 1-inch Rings for mine.

It does come with lens caps, but they’re not flip up. You just put them on when you’re not using the scope. If you want flip up covers, these Monstrum Rubberized Covers work pretty well.

Is the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 worth it?

This scope is the perfect choice for any avid hunter.

It has:

• Clear Glass
• Truplex reticle
• Unbeatable price
• TrueZero System
• 3-9x variable magnification

If you’re looking for the best quality scope that’s budget friendly, try the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40. You’ll be happy you did.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best muzzleloader scopeguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which scope will you pick for your rifle?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.