Bullwinkle deer disease is a chronic wasting disease that affects members of the deer family, including mule deer, white-tailed deer, and elk. It was first discovered in the late 1970s in Colorado and has since spread to other regions of North America.

This disease has caused significant concern among wildlife managers and researchers due to its potential impact on wildlife populations. In this article, we will discuss the causes, symptoms, and management of bullwinkle deer disease.

Cause

Bullwinkle deer disease is caused by prions, which are abnormal proteins that can cause other proteins to misfold and aggregate in the brain and other tissues. These aggregates, also known as amyloid plaques, cause neurological damage and eventually lead to death. Prions are highly resistant to traditional sterilization methods and can remain in the environment for many years, making it difficult to control the spread of the disease.

Significance

Bullwinkle deer disease is a significant concern for wildlife managers and researchers due to its impact on deer and elk populations. The disease is fatal and has no cure, and once it becomes established in a population, it can spread rapidly. In addition to the potential ecological impacts, bullwinkle deer disease also has economic impacts. Hunting is an important industry in many regions of North America, and the presence of the disease can lead to reduced hunting opportunities and decreased revenue.

Species Affected

Bullwinkle deer disease affects members of the deer family, including mule deer, white-tailed deer, and elk. The disease has been documented in many states in the United States, as well as in several Canadian provinces.

Distribution

Bullwinkle deer disease has been documented in many states in the United States, including Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, and Wisconsin, as well as several Canadian provinces. The disease appears to be spreading and has been detected in new areas in recent years.

Transmission

Bullwinkle deer disease is primarily transmitted through direct contact with infected animals or contaminated environments. Prions shed in the bodily fluids of infected animals can contaminate the environment, and other animals can become infected by ingesting contaminated food or water. The disease can also be transmitted through indirect contact, such as through contaminated hunting equipment or carcasses.

Clinical Signs

The clinical signs of bullwinkle deer disease can vary depending on the severity of the infection. In mild cases, infected deer may not display any visible symptoms. However, in severe cases, the disease can cause significant damage to the nervous system, resulting in a range of neurological symptoms.

Affected deer may appear disoriented and have difficulty walking or standing. They may also exhibit head tremors, droopy ears, and an inability to coordinate their movements. Some infected deer may display abnormal behavior such as circling, lethargy, and unresponsiveness to stimuli. In some cases, deer may also develop a drooping lower lip, a condition known as “lip paralysis.”

As the disease progresses, infected deer may also experience weight loss, dehydration, and an overall decline in health. In some cases, the disease can be fatal, particularly in young deer and those with weakened immune systems.

It is important to note that the clinical signs of bullwinkle deer disease can be similar to those of other neurological conditions, and a definitive diagnosis can only be made through laboratory testing.

Diagnosis

Diagnosis of bullwinkle deer disease typically involves the examination of brain tissue from infected animals. Postmortem examination of the brain can reveal the presence of amyloid plaques, which are characteristic of the disease. In some cases, live animal testing can also be used to detect the presence of the disease, although this method is less reliable than postmortem examination.

Treatment

There is no known cure for bullwinkle deer disease, and infected animals will eventually die from the disease. Management strategies are focused on reducing the spread of the disease and minimizing its impact on wildlife populations.

Management

There are currently no effective treatments for bullwinkle deer syndrome. However, there are steps that can be taken to reduce the likelihood of the disease spreading to healthy populations.

Preventative measures include minimizing contact between infected and uninfected deer populations, removing infected individuals from the population, and increasing surveillance efforts to detect new cases. The use of feeding stations, where deer congregate in large numbers, should be avoided, as this increases the risk of disease transmission.

Hunting and culling infected individuals may be necessary in certain situations, but it is important to take into account the potential impact on the overall population before implementing such measures.

Additionally, it is important to educate the public, particularly hunters, about the risks of spreading the disease through the transport of infected deer carcasses. Hunters should be encouraged to dispose of carcasses in designated areas and to avoid moving potentially infected animals from one location to another.

Overall, a comprehensive management approach that includes surveillance, prevention, and education is necessary to effectively control the spread of bullwinkle deer syndrome and protect deer populations from this devastating disease.

Conclusion

Bullwinkle deer is a serious disease affecting elk and other members of the deer family, caused by the parasitic worm Parelaphostrongylus tenuis. The disease is prevalent in regions with high populations of white-tailed deer and is often associated with wetlands and marshy areas.

Bullwinkle deer can cause significant neurological damage to infected animals, leading to severe physical disabilities and sometimes death. It is crucial for wildlife managers and researchers to identify and monitor infected animals to prevent the spread of the disease and to better understand its impact on elk and other deer populations.

Although there is no known cure for bullwinkle deer, early diagnosis and management can improve an infected animal’s chance of survival. Research efforts should focus on understanding the disease’s ecology, transmission, and potential long-term impacts on wildlife populations.

As humans continue to encroach on natural habitats and modify the landscape, it is crucial to understand and address the impacts of diseases like bullwinkle deer on wildlife populations. Through effective management and research efforts, we can work towards mitigating the disease’s impact and ensuring the health and survival of elk and other members of the deer family.

Sources:

1. Foreyt, W. J. (1985). Parelaphostrongylus tenuis: epidemiology of infection in elk and deer in the Pacific Northwest. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 21(4), 381-390.
2. Gibbs, E. P. (1976). Parelaphostrongylus tenuis infection in wapiti (Cervus elaphus nelsoni) and roosevelt elk (Cervus elaphus roosevelti) in western North America. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 12(1), 49-57.
3. Rosatte, R. C., & Pybus, M. J. (1978). The biology and control of Parelaphostrongylus tenuis in North America. Advances in Parasitology, 16, 213-274.
4. Severson, N. R., & Skorping, A. (2005). Effects of Parelaphostrongylus tenuis on fitness components of white-tailed deer. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 41(2), 271-277.
5. Zarnke, R. L., & Ver Hoef, J. M. (1989). Ecological and epidemiological studies of Parelaphostrongylus tenuis in southcentral Alaska. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 25(1), 101-107.

Further Reading:

1. Foreyt, W. J. (2001). Parasitism in elk and deer in North America. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 37(3), 519-530.
2. Kutz, S. J., & Hoberg, E. P. (2014). Parasites in ungulates of Arctic North America and Greenland: a view of contemporary diversity, ecology, and impact in a world under change. Advances in Parasitology, 85, 429-686.
3. Pybus, M. J., Samuel, W. M., & Kocan, A. A. (2001). Parasitic diseases of wild mammals. Iowa State University Press.
4. Additional reading available on https://www.northeastwildlife.org

Curious about which baits are the most effective for crabbing? This article looks at some of the most common crab baits that commercial and recreational fishermen use to fill up their traps.

The crabbing industry accounts for 1.4 million tons of crabs for the dinner plate per year. [Source] Below are some popular baits commercial and recreational crabbers use to trap them.

1. Crab Attractant

Crab attractants are usually made from natural fish oil and other baits. Crab attractants are designed to increase the range of attraction to your trap.

While it is not required for crabbing, a crab attractant is recommended to increase your yield.

Pro-Cure Crab & Shrimp Attractant

This crab attractant is best for Dungeness crabs. From its name, Crab and Shrimp Attractant, it’s also suitable for shrimps, so it’s best if you’re aiming for multiple species.

It’s made from natural baits like fish oil, anise oil, amino acids, and salmon egg juice. Its unique amino acids give unparalleled versatility to all kinds of species.

Smelly Jelly Crab Attractant

Smelly Jelly is another unique and best crab bait that works quickly, attracting crabs and other small invertebrates, including shrimps.

Smelly Jelly Crab Attractant is best for blue crabs. This gel-based crab attractant lasts long on your bait and is simple to use.

2. Chicken Necks and Other Parts

Chicken necks are the best bait to catch blue crabs. Crabs love the stinky part of a chicken, like the lungs, liver, and neck. Chicken is excellent, as other bottom-feeding marine animals do not commonly consume it.

Meaning when used, it doesn’t make other species go after it.

Crabs will eat any meat that includes a chicken’s liver and neck. These are both super cheap, making them perfect for crabbing.

The liver adds a scent to the water, while chicken necks are tough and easy to tie.

3. Razor Clams

Razor clams are most crabs’ favorite for their great scent. You might be thinking of crushing the clams, but don’t. Razor clams capture better when left uncrushed.

Additionally, razor clams are also great as it is naturally part of grousers’ diet.

4. Anchovies/Small Fish

For some experienced anglers, anchovies or small fish are good as it’s easy to find in a local grocery store.

Anchovies don’t make a massive difference if it’s frozen or not, but it better be sure to use them fresh to get the smelly fish quality and attract more crabs. Anchovies, plentiful through the seas, can be caught and put inside the trap.

5. Mink Carcasses

Mink Carcasses work for their intense stinky scent. As known for their oily and versatile characteristics, mink carcasses are commonly used for crabbing operations.

6. Turkey Necks

As well as chicken meat, turkey neck also attracts crabs. You can use any part, but the legs and neck work best to entice a crab.

7. Squid

Squid is the best bait for crabbing too! Cutting into the squid a few times releases more scents under the water.

A squid might be a bit pricey and not ideal for anglers who want to go over cheaper ones, but it also makes a great combination with other baits.

8. Salmon Head

Salmon heads are an effective way of catching more crabs. Fish heads attract crabs as much as other crab bait.

You can get these for free or cheap at your local supermarket, which works very well. Its bony structure makes it last in the water for quite some time. You can also use tuna for its fishy scent.

9. Smelly Jelly

Crabs find food like smelly jelly attractive. This is most commonly used on bait applications.

Smelly jelly attracts crabs with its smell and encourages grousers to hold on to the bait longer. It works on any of your bait.

10. Cat or Dog Food

If you’re someone who doesn’t want to get the stinky fishy smell of fish on your hand, then cat food or dog food might be of good use to you. Some anglers put holes in the canned cat food before using it as crab bait.

However, they don’t seem to eat cat food or dog food compared to others. So, if you’re desperate to catch a large sum, you might want to opt-in to other baits like fresh food.

11. Eels

Commercial crabbers use eels. These are good for anglers who want to let the traps stay and check them on a time-to-time basis.

You can leave it on your traps and stay on the hook for a few weeks until it decomposes. You can use an eel by cutting it into small pieces before putting it into the cage trap.

12. Bunkers

Bunkers are the best crab baits for their pungent smell, which crabs love. Bunkers are small salty fish used for catching blue crab.

These baits should be kept in a well-ventilated, dry location for their strong oily scent. Bunkers are small in size, so it is easy to handle. These are frequently used as blue crab bait.

Bunkers are more aromatic than rotten fish. But crabs go mad for rotten fish in a net bag. If you can’t get your hands on rotten fish, raw chicken is probably the next best thing and is easier to buy.

Crab Bait Holders

Crab traps and bait holders vary in shape and size. Choosing a good one ensures it’s strong enough to hold the lure underwater and will not be easily caught off by the current.

Skylety Crab Trap Bait Bags

This bait bag is easy to hang, making it perfect for crab fishing. Make sure you choose the one with the appropriate size, durability, practical design, and easy installation.

SF Mesh Bait Bags with Rubber Locker

This lure holder is of high strength, enough to protect the bait inside and from crab scratches. The mesh size is also great for preventing quick lure loss and is suitable for small lures.

Tips For Setting Crab Bait

Before we end, let us leave some more tips on setting the grouser lure you have in your care.

Many crabbers prefer to place traps. Crabs have an excellent sense of smell. This helps them find their food. Although crabs are not notoriously picky about what they eat, crabs still love fresh baits.

In that case, make sure you keep the quality of fresher bait. Keeping its freshness and natural smell is as essential as setting your lure bait for the best!

Crab Baiting Is A Fun Activity

We hope we’ve helped you to choose the best ones!

You can use various lures; the bottom line is to use a strong fishy scent to attract the grousers more. Plus, make it even better by keeping it fresh.

Try other human foods such as hot dogs, cheese, or bacon when setting your grouser trap. Most importantly, consider the season, region, and species of the crab you aim to catch. Location and time of year will drastically alter the crab species that can be caught.

One of the most important parts of a rifle is something that is often overlooked – the stock. Rifle stocks are one step you can take to customize your firearm to exactly fit the shooter and the uses of the gun. Let’s take a look at some different parts and types of rifle stocks. Read on!

What is a Rifle Stock?

A Rifle Stock is also known as a shoulder stock, buttstock or just the “butt” of the firearm. The receiver and firing mechanism as well as the barrel are attached to the stock which is held against the shooter’s shoulder when fired. The stock of the rifle allows you to firmly support and aim your gun.

Rifle Stock Anatomy

Rifle Stock Anatomy. Photo Credit – Gentleman’s Digest

It is important to know the parts of the rifle stock to help understand what type of stock will work best for our rifle and chosen application of said rifle. As shown in the diagram above, the parts of the rifle stock’s anatomy are mainly the butt and forend with the butt having a comb, heel, toe and grip.

Butt

The butt of the rifle stock is the part that is held into the shooter’s shoulder. Oftentimes with larger caliber rifles you will notice padding added to it to reduce felt recoil.

Comb

The comb of the rifle stock is the top of the stock where the shooter will rest our cheek to sight down the barrel or optic. Comb is very important as it puts the shooter’s eye into the perfect spot for aiming and eye relief for the optic.

Grip

Grips on a rifle stock are fairly self-explanatory. This is the part the stock the shooter’s hand holds keeping the butt tight into the shoulder.

Forend

A forend of the gun stock is where the shooter’s supporting arm holds the rifle up and maneuvers with the gun to aim it towards the target. It will be important to have a forend with excellent grip that fits the shooter’s body well.

Rifle Stock Construction

Rifle stocks can be made of many different materials and in many different styles. Ask yourself what type of climate you will be shooting in and the purpose of the gun. For instance, extreme temperatures often experienced in big-game hunting could potentially cause wood to warp, so a composite of some nature might be a better choice. Let’s take a look at a few of the material options.

Hardwood

Hardwood rifle stocks can vary greatly in accuracy and are susceptible to changes in temperatures, warping etc. When selecting a hardwood gun stock try to find one in a type of wood that is extra dense and hard. The softer the wood, the more prone to warping, shrinking/expanding and cracks the rifle stock will be.

A Curly Maple Hardwood Rifle Stock. Photo Credit – Accurate Shooter Bulletin

If we want a fancy, beautiful rifle stock we’ll be able to find a hardwood stock in nearly every exotic wood you can think of, making this a great choice for a displayed weapon as well as a great choice for a hunting rifle. Prices can vary from $50 into the thousands.

Laminated

Laminated wood has a very high accuracy potential and is more resistant to changes in temperature and humidity because it is multiple layers of wood glued together and then sealed. This glue binding agent repels moisture and because we aren’t dealing with the natural grain of the wood we don’t have to worry about weak points that can eventually crack usually.

Laminated Rifle Stock. Photo Credit: Eabco

One thing to keep in mind with a laminated stock is that they can be heavier than the other options – one reason you see these stocks on benchrest long-range rifles. Laminated rifle stocks can usually be found under $500.

Injection Molded Synthetic

Injection Molded Synthetic rifle stocks are usually amongst the cheapest we can buy. These gun stocks are produced by injecting molten plastic in a mold. While these stocks might seem appealing due to price there are several drawbacks.

Injection Molded Synthetic rifle stocks are not stronger or lighter than most wood gun stocks and their strength and stiffness can diminish as the thermoplastics used heat up in the summer sun or from the heat of shooting. Less rigid rifle stocks can have effects on accuracy.

An Injection Molded Synthetic Rifle Stock. Photo Credit – Sportsman Guide

Composite Synthetic

Composite rifle stocks are what you will usually see on high-end and military weapons. These are made from resin-soaked fabrics and powders put into a mold, compressed and allowed to cure. Composite Synthetic gun stocks can be made from various materials such as fiberglass, engineered fabrics or carbon fiber.

Composite Synthetic Rifle Stock. Photo Credit – Recoil Magazine

Rifle Stocks made in this manner and from these materials will often have reinforced stress points with something such as Aluminum. Lightweight, rigidity and chemically inert are the pros of these stocks but be prepared to shell out big money for them.

Bolt Action Stock vs AR Stock

Bolt-action rifles have an endless amount of options it seems but the AR-15 does as well. In general AR-15 stocks are Composite Synthetic or Injection Molded stocks. Typically AR-15 stocks are much more adjustable than your average bolt-action rifle stock. Remember that the AR platform of rifles are incredibly customizable to the shooter and their needs so the stock is going to be no different!

Retractable AR15 Stocks

Quite possibly the most common gun stock you will see on an AR is a retractable stock. This stock can be extended and retracted to fit the shooter’s size, length of pull, etc. With the flip of a lever or push of a button, the stock on your AR15 can be extended. Makes for a handy storage solution too! We like this one from Magpul here.

Fixed AR15 Stocks

Fixed AR15 stocks are what you might see on a vintage pre-ban Colt, similar to the M16 from the Vietnam-era in many cases. Obviously, if this works for a particular shooter more power to them. Modularity is the point of the AR-15 however, so it seems a bit silly not to have a more versatile gunstock. Nonetheless, many people like them. Check one out here.

AR15 Pistol Braces

AR-15 Pistols. Be careful with this one, as our beloved and revered ATF would like nothing more than to wreck your day at the range because you put a stock on your AR pistol, thus creating a Short-barreled Rifle. Thankfully, a pistol brace exists. A pistol brace is meant to be strapped to your arm to stabilize the pistol. Yes, you can shoulder a brace still. Sound stupid? Yeah, that’s because it is.

Left: A stock. Right: A pistol brace. Photo Credit – Shwat.com

Featureless AR15 Stocks

Continuing our trip down Stupidity Lane, we reach peak absurdity. In the United Soviet Socialist Republic of Cali… Errr. Sorry, we meant, in California, some lawmakers got a hair up their booties to make rifles “Featureless.” Not even going to speak about this anymore, we’ll just let the pic speak for itself. Sorry California.

A “Featureless” AR-15. Photo Credit – Caligunner.com

Shop Modulus Arms’ Butt Stocks

The gun world can be a huge rabbit hole when looking for compatible parts. We hope this helped give you some ideas for your next build or upgrading your current rifle! Don’t forget to check back often for helpful articles, tips and tricks etc! Looking for an AR-style stock? We’re slowly but surely expanding our inventory. Check out some of our favorites under parts & accessories! Until next time!

Limb lines are an extremely effective and simple method of catfishing. Typical limb lines for catfish setups involve nothing more than stout twine, a heavy sinker, a strong swivel, a sharp hook, and a tasty piece of bait. Instead of attaching this to a fishing pole, you tie it to a supple green limb overhanging the water and motor away to go do other things. In your absence, the limb fights the fish. Clever anglers may set a dozen or more of these lines, and let them “soak” for a couple of hours while they fish with a rod and reel nearby. If they’re lucky, they’ll soon be blessed with a “tree shaker,” a catfish so big it makes the whole tree sway as it struggles to return to deeper water!

Are Limb Lines Legal?

In most cases, yes! Most states allow limb lining in one form or another. In places where catfish are plentiful (throughout most of the southern and midwestern United States) regulations generally permit limb lines, trotlines, and other forms of setlining. Some states may have restrictions on the number of lines or hooks you can have out at once, and most require that the lines be tagged with the owner’s information. It’s important that you read up on your state’s regulations and clarify any questions with local authorities before you begin setting limb lines for catfish.

Limb Line Fishing

Some catfishermen look down upon limb lines, claiming that they don’t require any skill. It’s true that limb lines do set the hook and play the fish for you. But limb lines are to rod and reel fishing what trapping is to hunting. It’s a different way to accomplish the same goal, and you put in all of the hard work and planning on the front end of the project. There is definitely an art to setting limb lines.

For this article, we were lucky enough to be able to interview Art Preller. Art is a longtime limb line fisherman on the White River and the inventor of the Port Arthur Limb Line.

How Deep To Set Limb Lines For Catfish

While many fishermen conceptualize catfish as deep water bottom dwellers, Art knows different. “Catfish are edge dwellers,” he says. “They’ll run the bank edge at night, and you don’t need a whole lot of water to catch them in. I’ve got a three foot paddle on my boat, and if I see a limb that looks good I’ll go over and stick that paddle in the water. If it’s got three feet then I’ll go ahead and set a line. I don’t usually fish all the way on the bottom. I’ll drop the bait down to the bottom and then come up about six inches.”

Setting Catfish Lines – Where To Put Them

We asked Art if he had any advice on what stretches of the bank were good candidates for limb line fishing.

“It depends on what you’re fishing for,” Art replied. “If you’re fishing for flatheads, bluff banks are best. If you’re fishing for channel cats or blue cats, you can really catch them almost anywhere. I like to look for banks with a lot of overhanging brush on them. And the more structure you have around on the edge of the bank, the better.”

Catfish Bank Poles/Diddy Poles – An Option When You Don’t Have A Limb

Sometimes, there just isn’t a limb handy where you want to set a hook. Art keeps a few pvc poles in his boat that can be driven into eroded bluff banks. Referred to as “bank poles” “ditty poles” or “diddy poles,” these simple devices can make you a more versatile fisherman.

Diddy poles can be made from pvc, bamboo, cane, or green willow shoots. Anglers can also purchase premade diddy poles made from fiberglass. These poles are small enough in diameter that they can be set on sunken timber with the aid of the appropriately sized drill bit. If you’re looking to purchase some premade diddy poles, Catfish Getters offers them in several sizes and configurations.

Limb Lines On The River

When setting limb lines on the river, look for breaks in the current. If there’s a seam line in the current, catfish will lurk in the low-flow areas and wait to ambush food swept downstream. The mouth of creeks and sloughs off of the main channel can be productive areas.

Structure can also provide an easy place for catfish to rest and wait for prey. Old docks, fallen down trees, and sunken houseboats or derelict vessels on the bank can be productive places.

How To Set Limb Lines For Flatheads

Flathead catfish are highly regarded by serious catfishermen. “Flatheads are kinda like the crappie of the catfish family,” Art explains. “They have a very white, clean meat because they hunt live bait; they’re not scavengers like the other species.”

So how can a catfisherman target flatheads with his limb lines?

“You’ll definitely catch more flatheads with live bait,” he said. “Down here, we like to use goldfish or rice slicks.” (Editor’s note: “rice slicks” is a colloquial term for Green Sunfish (Lepomis cyanellus). “June is usually the most productive month because they’re spawning. Right now, if we set hooks with live bait, we’re running around a 25% hookup rate for flatheads.”

Best Bait For Limb Lines

What about other species? What’s the best bait for channel catfish and blue catfish?

“Nightcrawlers are always a good go-getter,” says Art. “You’ll mainly catch channel cats on them, but you can catch blues and even flatheads occasionally. You just have to be careful how you run your lines. If you’re using nightcrawlers, wait until sunset to bait your hooks. Otherwise bait-stealers like bream and gar will clean your hooks before catfish can find them.”

“As far as blues go, if you can catch a few skipjack or freshwater drum, you can cut those up and that’s a really good bait for blue cats,” Art explains. “We were out just last week and caught a 22lb blue on a piece of cut drum.”

Best Hooks For Limb Lines

Hook selection is a very important part of your limb line strategy. Catfish run the gamut from 2lb “eatin’-sized” channel cats all the way to trophy-class blue cats that can break the hundred pound mark. You’ll want to match your hook to your target fish’s size.

“I’m not really a trophy catfisherman,” says Art. “I’m just out to fill my freezer. My general rule is if a fish is too big for my filet knife, I’ll let him go. You need big fish in your water to replenish what you catch. So with that in mind, I consider a size two to size four j-hook to be about right for what I’m targeting.”

What about trophy catifsh?

“If you’re going for the big fish, those 50-80lb trophy fish, then you’ll want something bigger. I’d say a 7/0 circle hook would be about right for big fish. You’ll also want to get some bigger swivels. Big catfish are tough on your tackle.”

Best Knot For Limb Lines

For your connections to the swivel and hook, a good, no-slip knot with high break strength such as a Palomar knot is ideal. For your attachment to the limb, a good slip-knot will hold even the largest catfish, but come loose quickly and easily with a tug of the tag end when it’s time to gather your lines back up.

Best Time To Set Limb Lines

Limb lines are usually set at night during the spring and summer months. During this time, catfish feed more heavily at night as the water temperatures cool off. They’ll transition from deep, cool holes to the shallows along the shoreline in search of prey such as shad, bluegill, skipjack, crawfish, and insects.

Fishing at night also ensures that you are avoiding the “bait stealers” Art mentions. If you try to run lines during the day, you’ll have to fight with bream, gar, choupique, and even hungry turtles!

Limb Line String

Catfish are not line-shy. Heavy-duty, tarred trotline cord is strong and holds knots well, two features crucial in limb line string. Art’s premade limb lines come standard with tarred cord rated to 170lbs, plenty strong enough for even the biggest trophy catfish.

Limb Line Weights

When selecting weights for limb lines used in catfishing, it is essential to consider the size and behavior of the catfish species you are targeting. Generally, heavier weights are preferred to keep the line securely anchored to the limb or structure. The weight should be sufficient to counteract the fish’s strength and prevent it from easily breaking free. Depending on the water current and depth, weights ranging from 2 to 8 ounces or more may be suitable. It’s important to experiment and adjust the weight based on the specific fishing conditions to ensure the limb line remains stable and effective in attracting and catching catfish.

How To Make A Limb Line

Limb Line Setup

If you’d like to make your own limbline, start by gathering your materials. You’ll need heavy cord, strong swivels, sharp hooks, and some ½-4oz egg weights.

Start by cutting 2 lengths of cord; a 6-10ft main line and an approximately 2ft leader. Tie a heavy-duty swivel on one end of the main line using an improved clinch knot or palomar knot and thread an egg weight on. In heavy current, you’ll need a heavy sinker to keep your bait submerged. In slack water, use a lighter sinker.

Once the sinker is threaded, prevent it from coming off by tying a simple overhand knot on the opposite end of the line from the sinker. Then, tie a hook to your leader line. Straight-shank hooks can be attached with an improved clinch knot or similar. Circle hooks perform better when snelled. Be sure to use a hook size appropriate for the size fish you are after.

Once this is done, tie the hook and leader to the swivel on your main line. Add a tag in compliance with local regs to your main line, and your line is ready for the water!

Limb Line Rigs

It may not occur to most fishermen, but there is more than one way to rig a limb line. Most anglers will stick with the tried-and-tested Carolina and split shot rigs for limb lines. But there’s nothing stopping you from experimenting! Any live or cut bait rig that you would tie on the end of a rod-n-reel can be duplicated on a limb line. A dropshot rig is a good way to suspend bait off of the bottom, and you can experiment with multiple hooks by mimicking a high-low rig.

Catfish Limb Lines For Sale

While limb lines are simple to make, they do take up a lot of time. And if you don’t already have the hardware on-hand, it can be surprisingly expensive by the time you add up all of the materials plus time and gas to acquire them. Pre-made limb lines are an excellent option for fishermen who are short on time, or who just want to try a couple out on their next fishing trip.

Art Preller’s Port Arthur Limb Lines are an innovative take on limb lines. They incorporate a hi-vis, reflective flagging device that serves as a fish indicator, tag, and storage device. According to Art, “You can put fifty of them in a five gallon bucket and they’re all organized. And when you’re done fishing, they’re easy to pull off of the river so that you aren’t losing equipment or littering the environment.”

Limb Line Safety

Unfortunately, some fishermen give limb-lining a bad name and abandon their lines or leave them unattended for too long. This can be dangerous to wildlife and even people, especially when water levels fall and leave the hooks exposed. Animals and boaters can become hooked or entangled in an abandoned limb line, so always be sure to remove your lines when you are done with them!

Limb Line Lights

Some anglers go so far as to mark their limb lines to make them more visible. A chemical glow stick or inexpensive clip-on light can make it easier for you or unwary boaters to locate your lines in the dark. Reflective tape and hi-vis yellow, orange, or pink lines can also make it easier for you and others to see your lines.

Limb Line Tags

In most states, regulations call for tagging your limb lines. These tags generally require you to provide ID and contact information. In Alabama, for example, lines must be tagged with the owner’s name and either a phone number or fishing license number. This information helps conservation officers to identify the owners of abandoned lines.

Limb Line Storage

Perhaps the most difficult part of fishing with limb lines is keeping them organized! The more lines you run, the harder this becomes. A boat full of lines with sharp hooks and flopping catfish isn’t just frustrating, it can be downright dangerous!

Some anglers keep their lines wrapped around a section of foam pool noodle. Bury the hook point in the foam, wrap the line around the noodle, and tuck the tag end under the last wrap for a clean package that can be easily unwound when needed.

Another storage tactic is to wrap the lines around your fingers in a figure-8 pattern and secure it with a small alligator clip. The wrapped line can then be set into a compartment in a flat, stowaway-style tackle box.

Final Thoughts On Limb Lines For Catfish

In conclusion, limb lines are a highly effective and popular method for catching catfish. This traditional fishing technique combines simplicity and efficiency, making it accessible to anglers of all skill levels. By utilizing strong lines, appropriate bait, and strategic placement, limb lines offer a reliable means of catching plenty of catfish. However, it is crucial for anglers to prioritize responsible fishing practices, ensuring the safety and well-being of both the targeted species and the surrounding ecosystem. By adhering to local regulations and employing responsible fishing methods, anglers can continue to enjoy the thrill of limb lining while preserving natural resources and being considerate of other outdoorsmen.

Full Disclosure: This post may include affiliate links. There’s no extra charge to our readers for using these.

If you’re looking for a quality flashlight but are unsure where to start, it’s likely that an EDC flashlight is exactly what you need.

Long-lasting, powerful and compact in size, EDC flashlights are perfect for shedding light on everyday scenarios, including life-saving emergency situations.

Reliable light is of high value in unforeseen circumstances and an EDC flashlight is the best way to stay prepared.

Quick Takeaways

– EDC, or everyday carry, flashlights are ideal for feeling prepared for the various types of situations you may encounter, including personal safety and emergency standby- Compact, EDC units typically offer between 20-2000 lumens of light, sufficient for both casual daily activities and law enforcement needs- The best high quality EDC flashlights are equipped with a long battery life, impact resistant materials and an Ingress Protection rating of IP66 or higher

EDC flashlights are the perfect source of convenient, accessible light when encountering unexpected situations and are easily obtainable with a well-known name brand like Fenix.

What Is An EDC Flashlight?

EDC is an acronym for “everyday carry”, meaning that EDC flashlights refer to units that can be easily carried for everyday use, typically small enough to store in your pocket.

Although there is some overlap, EDC flashlights are defined by one’s lifestyle, as opposed to other units designed specifically for activities and destinations, such as camping or biking lights.

Everyday carry units are intended to help with anything you find useful. Whether it’s personal safety, emergency situations or shining extra light in a dimly lit closet, EDC units are ideal for feeling prepared for the various types of situations you may encounter.

What To Expect

There are many benefits to EDC flashlights since they are specifically designed to be convenient without sacrificing power. Here’s 5 qualities to look for when you’re on the hunt for a quality EDC flashlight.

Compact

One of the important characteristics of an EDC flashlight is its compact size, allowing for easy portability and accessibility. When shopping for a new unit, look for something that’s small enough to fit into your pocket or purse and the palm of your hand for quick use.

The weight of your flashlight is also important to consider. A heavy unit will feel like a burden to carry and defeat the purpose of having an EDC flashlight. At Fenix, finding a small, lightweight unit without sacrificing functionality and efficiency is easy.

Brightness

The best EDC flashlights use LED bulbs because they are brighter and more efficient than incandescent bulbs. Their light output, or brightness, is measured in lumens and can have anywhere from 20 to 2000 lumens, or more.

When determining the right amount of lumens for your EDC flashlight, consider how you plan to use your unit. If you only need accessible light for reading in the dark, 300-500 lumens is more than enough.

Long Battery Life

Although compact in size, quality EDC flashlights have impressively long run times due to their compatibility with rechargeable batteries.

EDC units that run on lithium or lithium-ion rechargeable batteries will not only appear brighter than those running on alkaline batteries, but also last longer due to a higher capacity for stored power.

In addition, different brightness settings and external battery level indicators found on EDC flashlights make it easy to preserve power for when you need it most.

High IP Rating

An IP rating, or Ingress Protection Rating, is a pair of numbers that represents the level of protection an object has against foreign bodies and moisture, such as dust and water.

To fully understand the different levels of protection an EDC flashlight can have, assess the chart below:

Image Source: www.budind.com

An EDC flashlight with the highest level of protection will have an Ingress Protection rating of IP68, demonstrating quality and likelihood to survive a rainy day or dust storm. A rating of IP66 or higher is ideal for units intended for everyday use.

Impact Resistance

Units intended for frequent use need to be tough in the face of the unknown. High-quality EDC flashlights are made from impact resistant materials, such as:

– High strength aluminum- Toughened glass- Stainless steel

Daily use of your EDC flashlight can take a toll on inexpensive, poorly made devices, ultimately making them unreliable. When you’re shopping for an EDC unit, avoid gear made from easily breakable plastic and low-quality lens material.

Best EDC Flashlights

EDC flashlights are specifically designed to fit every carrying need. Whether you’re looking for a super bright unit or one that clips onto your pocket, Fenix offers one of the best options.

Lightweight

Fenix E03R Keychain Flashlight

Weighing in at only 0.78 oz (22 grams), the Fenix E03R keychain flashlight shines when it comes to ultra-lightweight units. This compact flashlight is less than 2 inches in size and equipped with 260 lumens of bright light.

Latch this undetectable EDC flashlight onto your keychain to benefit from 5 different light settings and a high Ingress Protection rating of IP66.

Clip On

Fenix E28R Rechargeable 18650 EDC Flashlight

Although almost every Fenix flashlight features a convenient body clip, the E28R’s high output, durability and size make this unit one of the best.

This powerful EDC flashlight offers 1500 lumens of light and 5 different brightness settings in a size small enough to fit in the palm of your hand. With a protection rating of IP68, the E28R has everything you need in an EDC flashlight.

Brightness

Fenix E35 V3.0 EDC Flashlight

Fenix’s E35 V3.0 EDC flashlight gives portable and powerful a whole new definition. This unit offers up to 3000 lumens of light with a beam distance of 787 feet with less than 5 inches of length. That’s enough light to conduct Search & Rescue!

When all you need is to illuminate the pages of your latest read, dim this EDC unit down to the lowest of 5 light settings, offering just 50 lumens of light. With its durable aluminum body and 100% resistance to water and dust, no other EDC unit compares to the offerings of Fenix’s E35 V3.0.

Compact

Fenix E30R Rechargeable EDC Flashlight

Rechargeable, long-lasting and fully waterproof, Fenix’s E30R provides big power in a small package. Less than 4 inches in size and weighing under 2oz, this EDC unit goes undetected in your pocket or purse.

Use one of 5 brightness settings to benefit from anywhere between 30-1600 lumens of light and know exactly when it is time to recharge with the 4-level battery indicator.

Self Defense

Fenix UC35 V2.0 LED Rechargeable Flashlight

One of the most comforting features of carrying a quality EDC flashlight is accessibility to a reliable means of self-defense. Fenix’s UC35 V2.0 is not only pocket-sized and far-reaching, but also features a self-defense strobe light setting and an extreme impact resistant body.

This anti-roll and anti-slip design makes reaching for and handling this unit effortless and comfortable. Rechargeable and long-lasting, the UC35 is the perfect unit for military, policing and emergency standby.

Fenix Flashlights For Every Need

EDC flashlights quickly prove their usefulness once you start to carry one. With so many durable and dedicated options, finding the best EDC flashlight is easy with Fenix.

Find the best EDC flashlight for your needs and benefit from long-lasting, compact power by visiting Fenix Store today!

My introduction to the diminutive .17 caliber came via a mid-winter coyote caper in southwestern Alberta. I hunted mule deer there the previous year with a good buddy, Andre van Hilten, owner of Willow Creek Outfitters. The predator hunter in me couldn’t help but notice the abundance of coyotes as we picked apart the landscape with our optics in search of antlers. So it was no surprise the next January I was following Andre down a sharp ridgeline where we set up overlooking a spiderweb of brushy draws that converged at a frozen stock pond.

It was that magical crepuscular time of the morning all coyote hunters cherish. The breeze was cool and wispy as the sun peeked over the horizon. Andre laid into the rabbit distress call with the guttural growl of a chain-smoking blues singer, causing the hairs on the back of my neck to stand and applaud. I watched the hills come to life as coyotes began crawling out of the woodwork. Nine in all! Most were milling around several hundred yards out, finishing up the night shift and paying us very little attention. Then I spotted two coming hard, one down a fence line, the other circling the far end of the stock pond. I’d like to say that we cleaned house, but circumstances conspired to produce a big fat zero. Don’t ask, and I won’t tell. No worries, though. There was no shortage of coyotes and we’d get a chance at redemption in this predator-rich environment.

That reckoning came in the form of several rugged-out coyotes over the next few days of hunting, firmly planted by the formidable .17 Remington Fireball and its petite 20-grain AccuTip-V projectile. This hunt occurred a few years back when Remington first introduced the cartridge—a necked-down version of its .221 Fireball—and paired it with the also petite Model Seven rifle. I was one of a handful of early test subjects asked to measure its mettle. While I was somewhat skeptical of using such a small bullet on such large northern coyotes, that concern proved to be unfounded. A look at my notes from that hunt demonstrates the efficiency of this formidable little cartridge.

On that Alberta hunt we had no unrecovered coyotes. The longest shot—193 yards—to a broadside coyote dropped it in its tracks with no exit wound. A shot at 170 yards netted a similar result: instant death with no exit wound. A shot to the head at 171 yards dropped another coyote with an exit wound that caused only minimal damage. Only one coyote showed considerable fur damage: a frontal shot at 94 yards that encountered bone and exited out the shoulder.

Another group of hunters in Wyoming experienced similar results with kills ranging from 60 to 250 yards with no unrecovered coyotes. Only one hit coyote went a considerable distance and required a finishing shot. The dog shot at 250 yards was hit to the rear of the lungs, and the tough canine traveled 200 yards before succumbing.

Currently, there are three major .17-caliber centerfire cartridge offerings: .17 Remington, .17 Remington Fireball, and .17 Hornet. Each comes factory loaded with a decent selection of special-purpose varmint and predator bullets. I’d be remiss in not mentioning a lengthy list of wildcats, such as the .17 Ackley Bee, .17 Ackley Hornet, .17 MACH IV, .17 Javelina, and others.

So let’s set the stage by first looking at the three factory offerings in .17 caliber:

17 Remington

The first modern-day factory-loaded .17 varmint cartridge was the .17 Remington, introduced in 1971. It’s the hottest of the bunch (excluding the wildcats), and its angry little 20-grain Remington Premier AccuTip-V bullet leaves the barrel at 4,250 fps. This cartridge is based on the .223 Remington case (with some dimensional changes) necked-down to accept 0.172-inch-diameter bullets. Like its parent case, the rim diameter is 0.378 inch, and the shoulder angle remains 23 degrees.

.17 Remington Fireball

Remington launched the .17 Fireball, a necked-down version of its .221 Fireball, in 2007. It pushes the 20-grain Remington Premier AccuTip-V bullet out the barrel at 4,000 fps, almost matching the .17 Remington. But it uses significantly less powder than the .17 Remington and therefore produces less heat and fouling, which can be an issue with the high volume varmint hunters shoot. The .17 Remington Fireball was Remington’s factory-produced answer to the popular .17 Mach IV wildcat, which it resembles.

.17 Hornet

The .17 Hornet was originally offered as a wildcat cartridge by P.O. Ackley during the early 1950s, as a necked-down version of the .22 Hornet. Shooting a 20-grain V-max bullet, it produces a muzzle velocity of 3,650 fps and generates 592 ft.-lbs. of energy. Its trajectory is similar to that of a .223 Remington shooting a 55-grain bullet but with the felt recoil of a .22 WMR. As with the Fireball, there is less fouling, barrel wear, powder, and pressure when compared to the .17 Remington.

The Pros

It doesn’t take more than a glance to recognize what these cartridges have in common and what makes them effective for terminating predators, even those as large as northern coyote.Velocity, which, of course, is one of two ways to produce foot-pounds of energy. The other way being bullet mass. With their itty-bitty, frangible bullets, speed is required to produce the energy and terminal performance needed for effective kills—especially when dealing with coyote-sized critters. But the tiny .17 pill does come with some limitations.

First, the good news. There are many good reasons why downsizing to these diminutive cartridges for fur hunting can make sense, especially when pursuing smallish critters such as foxes, bobcats, and raccoons at moderate ranges: reduced recoil, flat trajectory, minimal fur damage, small maneuverable rifles, etc. Of these reasons, the one that left the biggest impression when I hunted with the .17 Fireball in Alberta was its mild recoil, which meant never losing sight of the target. Even when using high-powered optics, I could actually see the bullet hit fur on the coyotes I killed and that means I could often determine where the animal was hit and make quick follow-up shots when necessary. That’s because the .17 Fireball cartridge uses 50 percent less powder than the popular .22-250 Remington and generates 86 percent less recoil.

Next on the list of attributes is flat trajectory. Using the .17 Remington as an example, its 20-grain AccuTip-V bullet leaves the barrel at a blistering 4,250 fps, giving it a trajectory similar to the consummate varmint-getter, the .22-250 Remington, which has a muzzle velocity of 3,800 fps with a 50-grain version of the same bullet. With a 250-yard zero, the .17 Remington drops 2.5 inches at 300 yards and 13.5 inches at 400 yards. Comparatively, the .22-250 Remington with the same 250-yard zero drops 2.7 at 300 yards and 12.2 inches at 400 yards.

The next two characteristics—accuracy and terminal performance—have a lot to do with the bullets typically loaded for these cartridges, such as the aforementioned Remington AccuTip-V, Hornady V-MAX, Nosler FBHP Varmageddon, and others. In varmint calibers, these bullets, albeit small, combine superb flight characteristics and match-grade accuracy with a design optimized for explosive on-game results. Ballistic-tip bullets are death to thin-skinned critters, such as foxes, bobcats, and coyotes. The AccuTip-V performed as expected on those Alberta coyotes: a small entrance hole, explosive expansion, and very few exits. Most of the coyotes were dead before they hit the ground.

Finally, for outback hunts, lightweight, maneuverable rifles are the flavor of the day—for example, Remington’s Model Seven, Ruger’s 77/17, and Savage’s Walking Varminter. The fact that recoil isn’t an issue with the .17s means shedding weight makes sense when covering lots of ground or rugged terrain in pursuit of predators.

The Cons

OK, now for the not-so-good news. There are times when these undersized cartridges might get a fur hunter in trouble, such as when hunting in windy conditions or when hunting larger predators or a mixed bag of predators. The trade-off is that the lighter bullets produce less energy at the muzzle and shed it much quicker than heavier bullets, making them less effective as the yardage to the target increases. The .22-250 Remington produces nearly twice the foot-pounds of energy at the barrel—1,603 vs. 802—as the .17 Remington and 536 vs. 192 ft.-lbs. at 400 yards. That’s why I consider the .17s to be moderate-range cartridges for fur hunting, effective to 200 yards or so but not so much beyond that.

And as mentioned, wind drift is an issue with these lighter bullets when compared to larger calibers and their heavier bullets. Consider a .22-250 Remington pushing a 55-grain ballistic-tip bullet in a 20-mph crosswind. Hunters can expect 7.3 inches of drift at 200 yards and 17.5 inches at 300 yards. Compare that to the .17 Hornet pushing a 20-grain ballistic-tip bullet: 11.4 inches of drift and 200 yards and 28 inches of drift at 300 yards. For that reason, I often opt for larger calibers and heavier bullets if I know I’m going to be experiencing blustery conditions while hunting.

One last thing. Small-bore rifles generally need to be cleaned more frequently to maintain their accuracy.

I’m not ready to retire my .22-250 Remington rifles from active coyote duty, and I still have reservations about the downrange energy and wind-bucking ability of the 17-caliber cartridges on coyote-sized critter past 200 yards. But for light duty on fox-sized critters and coyotes at moderate ranges, these feisty little cartridges hold a secure position in my battery of predator/varmint rifles.

Is your tree healthy?

Twig growth for the season should be from 3 to 24 or more inches in length. Bark growth cracks usually indicate that the tree is healthy. Tissue in the cracks should be bright green or pink when scratched. However, loose and discolored bark or unusually flattened areas on the trunk is indicative of a diseased condition.

Root Zone Management

Maintain an undisturbed soil area above the root zone if possible. (For management purposes the root zone extends out 1/3 the distance beyond the drip line of the tree. The drip line is the outermost edge of a tree’s foliage). Minimize grading, digging, trenching, covering the ground with asphalt or concrete or landscape plants, excessive foot traffic, or vehicle parking. Proper management maintains free passage of water and air within the root zone. The area extending 6 feet from the trunk is the most vulnerable and should always be left undisturbed and uncovered.

Pruning

Mature oaks do not require pruning except to remove dead, weakened, diseased, or dangerous branches. If pruning is necessary, trees should be pruned in the dry season. June and July is best.

Irrigation

Native California oaks have evolved in a Mediterranean-type climate where there is little rainfall between late spring and early autumn. As such, they generally do not require irrigation during this dry period and, in fact, trees may be adversely effected by supplemental watering during this period since warm-moist conditions can favor harmful diseases. It is particularly critical that the trunks of oak trees remain dry. However, if the winter season is unusually dry, then a supplemental irrigation in the early spring can complement natural rainfall. Water deeply, to one to two feet, in the outer two-thirds of the root zone. Alternatively, placing organic mulch under the tree can conserve moisture in the root zone by reducing surface evaporation. Mulch also inhibits the growth of weeds, which can compete with oak roots for moisture and nutrients. As mulch breaks down, it also increases organic material in the soil which improves water percolation, aeration in the root zone, and long-term nutrient availability.

Newly planted trees may require supplemental watering while they are establishing in the landscape. These plants may require irrigation up to one every month in the dry period.

Fertilization

A healthy, mature oak under natural conditions does not require supplemental feeding. The leaf litter and other organic debris on the soil supply nutrients as they decompose and release nutrients to the soil and roots. Supplemental fertilization may be needed when the organic debris is removed or when the oak exhibits disease or when growth is poor. Generally, young trees can be fertilized to establish them quickly.

Nitrogen is the primary nutrient of value to oaks. Prior to rain or irrigation, fertilizer can be spread on the ground to cover the outer two-thirds of the root zone. An alternate application method is sometimes useful. Fertilizer can be injected with water or placed in holes dug into the ground, 18 inches apart, along the tree’s drip line. Fertilizers should be applied at a rate of two to four pounds of actual nitrogen per thousand square feet of area. (For example, if a nitrogen fertilizer contains 20% elemental nitrogen, then 10 to 20 pounds of fertilizer would be applied per thousand square feet of area). Organic nitrogen or slow release nitrogen sources are preferable. Organic sources should be applied in late winter to allow the nitrogen to move into the root zone. Inorganic sources should be applied in late spring after the first flush of growth.

Compatible Gardens

Drought tolerant plantings can be incorporated into the landscape around oaks. Many California native plants, once established, may require little or no watering. Again, plantings within the root zone area are not recommended.

NOTE: The information on this page was excerpted from from Living among the Oaks, a publication of the Integrated Hardwood Range Management Program, University of California Cooperative Extension. For more information, click here.

Sighting in a new gun — or re-zeroing an older rifle — can be a very frustrating chore…

It can be such a hassle in fact, that we sometimes end up neglecting that first day at the range for fear of pulling our hair out as we chase shots all over the paper — if we even hit paper from the start.

Traditional bore sighting involves some guesswork.

But now, instead of engaging in a procedure equivalent to tossing darts at a dartboard while looking through a rolled-up newspaper, a laser bore sighting system can simplify the whole process for you.

We tested five laser bore sight products — three for general firearm applications, and two specifically for a firearm chambered in .223.

Let’s see how these products performed in the field.

By the end, you’ll have a better idea which ones performed best, under what circumstances, and the ones that might work for you.

THE QUICK LIST

Testing Procedures

While we performed multiple tests on each product to determine visibility and functionality, we settled on a simple test for comparison’s sake.

The goal was to zero a Savage Axis .270 to 100 yards with as few shots as possible.

We started at 25 yards, aligning our first shot using the bore sighters. From there, we would realign and shoot as necessary until we were zeroed at 100 yards.

However, we did something slightly different for the .223 bore sighting products. We wanted to see how the bore sighters would work to set the iron sights at 25 yards.

Safety Note

Remove your bore sight, either in the chamber or on the muzzle of your weapon, BEFORE test firing the firearm. Failing to do so will cause massive damage to your firearm and/or you and/or the people around you.

You would think this didn’t need to be said, but coffee is hot also. Stay safe out there, people!

And just in case, don’t forget to bring your IFAK to the range with you.

Best General Firearm Bore Sights

These bore sighting tools are not chamber or caliber specific and you can use them on a range of guns though limitations do apply.

1. Bushnell 740100C Laser Boresighter

This is a competent unit, but it lacks power for greater distances and has to be used in a specific way for maximum effectiveness.

The Bushnell can be set up to sight in anything from handguns and rifles to shotguns, and the kit includes arbors to fit from a .22 to a .50 caliber weapon, as well as 12- and 20-gauge shotguns.

Note, however, that this boresight will only work in pistols with barrels 4.5 inches or longer due to its length. Overall, though, the build quality is high, and the all-metal construction feels exceptionally sturdy.

However, the laser did diffuse somewhat quickly, and a special reflective surface was necessary to take full advantage of the Bushnell as we put it through its paces.

We began our testing in the early morning, with less direct sunlight, and we found this boresighter offered laser visibility to just over 50 yards on a white target. Beyond that range, it was a challenge to see the red spot on the white paper.

This is OK, though, as we began testing at 25 yards, and the Bushnell got us on paper easily.

After fitting the arbor, which took a little adjusting to get the screw seated and the fit correct, the boresighter sat snuggly in the .270’s barrel, and we could easily line up our crosshairs.

The first shot was around 4 minutes of angle off high-left at 25 yards, so we simply readjusted for a second shot at 25 yards without the boresight, and moved out to the 50-yard target distance, where we reinserted the boresighter.

This shot was off by about 5 MOA, but we were on paper, and after a readjustment and two more shots, we zeroed the .270 at 100 yards without using the boresight.

Now, it’s important to remember, the pointer isn’t 100% accurate. It won’t point exactly where your shot goes, but it doesn’t have to do that to get the job done. The idea is to save time and ammo by not having to guess while boresighting.

So, after only two shots lined up with the boresighter, we were set up, and the Bushnell was back in the bag.

Not bad, and the unit is capable overall, as long as you know how to use it. The unit doesn’t feature a super-powerful laser, and while it was visible earlier in the day, that visibility dropped significantly over the course of our testing.

It did come with a handy carrying pouch, though, and the system’s versatility is nice.

I can absolutely recommend this product as striking a great balance between price, portability, ease-of-use, wide applicability, and usability.

But be aware, you absolutely need a special reflective surface, preferably designed for use with laser boresights, for the Bushnell to be most effective in a variety of conditions.

2. LaserLyte MBS-1 Mini Laser Boresight

This more compact boresighter performed similarly to the Bushnell product, except that it is smaller and can fit into pistols with barrels from 3 inches and above.

It lacks arbors that will fit shotgun barrels and is intended for use with rifles and pistols exclusively.

Where the LaserLyte shines — pun intended — is in a slightly more powerful, tighter laser. We could spot the laser more easily past 50 yards, and its beam appeared to be tighter in our testing.

That said, the effective range is close to 65 yards, and certainly no more than 70 yards without a special reflective surface to sight off of.

As an aside, a reflective target insert would be a huge help.

When you’re first setting up the LaserLyte — and the Bushnell, for that matter — be aware, the arbors use very small screws that take some finagling to set up properly.

Work over a box or other surface where you won’t have to be concerned about dropping your screws and losing them.

We set the scope on the .270 out of zero and sighted using the LaserLyte. After a single shot at 25 yards, we were only off the expected point of impact by about 2 MOA.

This felt a little tighter than the Bushnell Boresighter, but we were still on paper with both systems.

After we shot again at 25 yards and readjusted the scope, we went out to 50 yards and sighted using the boresight to check the expected point of impact. The next shot was only about 3 MOA off our aim point, and we were easily able to zero from there.

We went out to 100 yards and zeroed easily without using the LaserLyte.

The unit’s greater compactness and slightly more visible laser — especially in more direct sunlight — make the LaserLyte easy to recommend.

The applications between the Bushnell and the LaserLyte are slightly different, and if you’re seeking a boresighter with greater versatility when it comes to pistols, this is probably the unit for you.

Both products performed admirably, however, and both are usable for their intended applications within similar ranges.

3. Wheeler Engineering Professional Boresighter

This unit has a lot of unique, premium features that make it an exceptional product and probably my favorite pick of the bunch.

First, it uses a green laser — every other unit we tested uses a red laser — which was strikingly more visible in daylight, all the way out to 100 yards, without any special reflective materials.

This boresighter also features a strong magnet to attach to the end of a muzzle, and this worked admirably well.

However, note that we immediately found the unit did scuff up the rifle crown when we first attached it.

We solved the problem by placing a piece of cleaning cloth in between the crown and the boresight. Arbor-based systems, in theory, may damage the bore upon insertion, so both types of alignment have their pros and cons.

The Wheeler also comes with a lithium battery and a carrying case. Everything about the unit feels premium. And the best part is, it even included a special reflective target sticker that was extremely helpful sighting in every laser boresighter we tested.

I didn’t even have to use the reflective tape I brought because of this. Way to go, Wheeler!

In terms of our test, the Wheeler wasn’t exactly the most accurate out of the box, probably because of how it attaches to the muzzle. We could rotate the Wheeler on the muzzle, and it absolutely did jump around the paper a bit.

While it took some practice, once we were confident, we took a shot at 25 yards, and we were on target! Only off by about 3 MOA high and to the right of our aim point.

This was totally acceptable, and after we readjusted our point of aim for a second shot at 25 yards, we moved out to 50 yards and re-sighted using the Wheeler. Our next shot was off around 3 MOA, this time to the bottom-right of our target point.

We adjusted again and were able to zero out at 100 yards. This time, however, because of the powerful laser of the Wheeler, we did use it to check our adjustment, and we were about right on to our point of aim from here.

The Wheeler is an exceptional, premium unit, and it has some excellent features. It’s priced higher than any other unit we tested, however, and it really does have a more limited range of applications in a sense, in that it really isn’t practical for sighting in a pistol.

While you could sight in a shotgun or a pistol with it in theory, I see most users sighting in rifles with the Wheeler.

That said, I highly recommend the Wheeler, especially if want high ease-of-use or you’re sighting in multiple firearms under controlled conditions and want a unit that will save you a lot of time.

For a gunsmith, this might be the unit to have.

For everyone else, an Arbor-based system may be more practical.

What do you think of the Wheeler? Rate it below!

.223-Specific In-chamber Bore Sighters

While these two bore sighters are designed for .223 Remington chambers, boresighters that are made for other calibers are widely available.

They also all work the same way – just drop them into the chamber like you would a normal cartridge and use per the instructions given.

Be careful when using these and, as always, adhere to the Four Rules of Gun Safety.

If you poke around on the internet you can find accounts from people who mistook their live ammo for their bore sight and fired their rifles unexpectedly.

Don’t be that person.

4. Sightmark Laser Boresight

This bore sight is easy to use, and worked reasonably well, though both .223 bore sighters were less powerful than the other units we tested.

The Sightmark takes three AG3 batteries, and was visible only out to about 25 yards, though using the reflective target greatly improved this range.

This was fine for the open sights on the rifle we tested. It also comes with a handy carry pouch, which was a nice addition.

Because the Sightmark operates in the chamber and sights down the length of the bore, it proved to be very accurate and extremely easy to use. We simply turned on the laser and loaded the unit, adjusted the sights, and took a shot.

At 25 yards, the Sightmark got us on paper after the first shot, and it only took three more shots to get the open sights adjusted. The accuracy off the bench held true at 50 yards.

We really only had to load the Sightmark once to get on paper, and it performed flawlessly in this application.

At greater distances sighting in an optic, however, some reflective material would absolutely be necessary.

5. GoZier Tactical .223 Laser Boresight

The GoZier performed similarly to the Sightmark bore sight. However, the GoZier does take up to four AG3 batters and we found it did appear to be slightly brighter out past 25 yards.

I’d say it had an extended range of about 10 to 15 extra yards over the Sightmark.

Practically speaking, however, it didn’t perform substantially better in terms of visibility, and still worked best with a highly reflective surface to sight off of.

After we let our test rifle cool down for a while, the test results were similar.

We loaded the laser bore sight after intentionally misaligning the rifle’s sights and then sighted the rifle in. We took a single shot, which was on paper, though we were about 2 MOA further from the dead center of our aim point compared to the Sightmark.

This was most likely simply due to the variation in how we had the sights set for the first shot, however, and after we adjusted slightly, we took three more shots.

From there, we were able to fire accurately at 25 yards, and remain on paper and readjust at 50 yards without needing to rechamber the GoZier.

Both the GoZier and Sightmark performed well.

The GoZier definitely had a slight but noticeable edge when came to visibility. But both bore sighters needed reflective surfaces to be effective and required four shots to sight in the rifle.

Both products get my vote.

Conclusion

Do you absolutely need a bore sighting product?

Not necessarily

But these units make it so easy to get on paper right from the start and are cheap enough that it seems pointless not to keep at least one of these in your range bag.

Hitting paper the first time you shoot can be invaluable, especially for newbies or those working with multiple firearms. If you’ve ever tried to zero a rifle by sighting down the bore, you’ll know how extremely frustrating it can be if you can’t consistently get on paper right from the start.

A laser bore sight will keep you from chasing your shots all over the paper, saving you time and ammunition in the process.

My favorite for rifles and pistols is the LaserLyte.

If you want to go a little bit more pro (and green), I like the Wheeler.

And for something .223 chamber specific…the GoZier takes a slight edge.

How do you go about sighting in a new rifle? What type of boresight do you use? Tell us in the comments below. If you’re heading to the range, don’t forget your Essential Shooting Range Gear!

Knowing when and how to hunt over scrapes is a pivotal part of being a successful whitetail deer hunter. These markings are utilized by bucks in a way that acts as a calling card for deer in a specific area and they can be extremely productive for hunters who know how to use them.

There is an element of mystery associated with scrapes as hunters can’t always tell what type of buck created the marking without the aid of a trail camera. Nevertheless, hunting scrapes at the right time can be the ticket to bagging a mature buck when all other methods of approaching the deer prove to be fruitless.

In this article, we’ll cover how bucks utilize scrapes in relation to the specific time of year, as well as certain times of the day during deer season. I hope to provide some insight as to the best ways to approach hunting over a scrape, and also give hunters an idea of when to lay off and stay away from them as well.

When Will Bucks Start Making Scrapes?

Scrapes are one of the most talked-about aspects of whitetail deer hunting. While there is plenty of great information that can be found online regarding scrapes, there are a lot of instances where misinformation is spread and sometimes advocated by what most hunters would deem to be reputable outdoorsmen and women in the hunting industry.

Seeing a fresh scrape is certain to inspire a sense of excitement in hunters of all skill levels as it is a sure sign that a buck has been in the area—and that he is likely to return on a semi-regular basis to check the scrape again at some point. So this begs the question, when is the best time to hunt over a scrape?

Hunters should start seeing more signs of buck activity in the form of scrapes on their given hunting location around early to mid-October throughout much of the United States. While bucks are known to make scrapes at virtually any time of the year, this kind of activity will increase when the bucks’ testosterone levels are increasing just before the rut goes into full effect.

This is a time when bucks are becoming more active and preparing to draw a line in the sand, so to speak, when it comes to their own personal territory. Bucks will start to create these kinds of markers as they instinctively know that the rut is set to kick off in a matter of a few weeks, depending on where you’re located throughout the country.

Determine the Freshness of the Scrape First

One of the key aspects to focus on when it comes to scrapes and how you should approach them is freshness. If you come across a scrape in your hunting land, take your time and look it over thoroughly to determine whether or not it is a fresh scrape, or if it has been made more than a few weeks ago. Focusing your efforts on hunting over an old scrape will likely turn out to be a huge waste of time as bucks may be on the move in your area and turning most of their attention towards their female companions instead of scrapes.

Be sure to look at the overhanging branches above the scrape to see if they have recently been chewed or twisted. Most skilled hunters are able to tell when a small tree branch was worked by a buck and make a fairly accurate assessment as to when the buck chewed on the ends of the branch or used its antlers to twist and break the ends.

It’s also important that you closely inspect the ground where the buck has pawed at the scrape and pay attention to whether there are any leaves and other debris that have fallen into the scrape area since the buck made the marking. A fresh scrape will have very few if any leaves in the scrape and an old one will have a decent amount of debris in the area.

When to Start Looking for Scrapes?

The most important question any hunter can ask pertaining to scrapes is likely going to be “when is the best time of year to hunt over scrapes?”

However, it can be just as important to understand when you should start looking for scrapes on your hunting land. If you are able to find scrapes or scrape lines early shortly after they’ve been created by bucks in your area, you can usually work to stay one step ahead of the buck you’re after.

You should start looking for scrapes on the property you are hunting in early October. Once you find the first scrape or scrape line, you should work to connect the dots and try to make an assessment as to where the buck is headed and what two points of interest the scrape is made to connect.

In most cases, scrapes are made in areas very close to where a buck is either feeding or bedding. If you are very familiar with the specific area you’re hunting, you should try to look for areas where bucks might bed down in thickets and other sections that offer good amounts of cover and a higher vantage point than the land surrounding the bedding area.

In addition to finding and pinpointing the particular bedding area in your neck of the woods, it’s also important to try and search out the various food sources nearby. If you can locate the bedding areas and determine which food supplies a buck is likely to be using in early to mid-October, you’re very likely to find scrapes along the trails or edges of thick cover and hardwoods.

Best Time of Year to Hunt Over Scrapes

According to most experienced whitetail deer hunters, hunting over scrapes is an excellent strategy just before the rut starts to kick in. For most of the United States, bucks will start to engage in behavior that is consistent with their usual rutting patterns around the beginning of October or toward the end of the month.

When it comes to hunting over scrapes, freshness is the most important aspect of the entire conversation. If you find a fresh scrape in early October or near the middle of the month, the best time to hunt over this particular buck sign is sooner rather than later. A buck that takes the time to create a scrape is likely to come back and check it within a few days, or sooner in some cases.

It’s a mistake to think that you can simply make a note of this scrape and hunt over it once the rut is truly beginning. Bucks typically make scrapes just a few weeks before they will begin to chase after does as a means to tell other bucks in the area “this is my turf.” Once they begin to go into estrus, bucks will mostly lose interest in scrapes as they will focus most of their efforts on finding these does that are in heat and mating with them.

Bucks will, however, come back and check these scrapes if they are in the area. Most hunters swear by the process of creating their own mock-scrapes in order to draw the attention of bucks. There is little scientific evidence to back up the idea that mock-scrapes are just as productive as naturally occurring scrapes.

Most hunters will have the most success hunting over scrapes in the month before the peak of the rut in their particular area.

Best Time of Day to Hunt Over Scrapes

Most scrapes are going to be worked by bucks under the cover of darkness. Obviously, hunters can’t legally hunt during this time, so the next course of action is to catch an unsuspecting buck at or near a freshly-made scrape in the early morning hours. If you plan to hunt over a particular scrape or a scrape line, it’s best to do so in the early morning.

Be sure to get into your stand well before daylight in order to avoid disturbing any bucks as they make their way along the trail where the scrape is located. It is very likely that the buck has spent the night roaming around the general area, checking scrapes, and feeding on various food sources.

The time for hunting over scrapes successfully is actually a shorter window than most hunters realize. Bucks will make scrapes in the early portion of the hunting season, but they will quickly turn most of their focus toward chasing after does in estrus once the rut kicks in full force.

Buck Behavior Around Scrapes

The subject of buck behavior around scrapes is one that could be discussed in an article of its own as there are many different points to consider. Bucks will react in a variety of ways to other deer visiting their scrapes and many mature bucks are known to make use of scrapes more heavily than younger bucks.

Bucks will begin to make scrapes more aggressively once their testosterone levels increase as the rut comes closer. Scrapes will begin to appear more frequently in October and you can expect other bucks to leave their scent in an already-made scrape in most cases. Some hunters can draw bucks in and keep their attention for a few days through the use of a mock scrape and the right combination of buck urine or doe estrus.

What is a Scrape Line?

A scrape line is one of the biggest signs that bucks are living in a specific area and that they’re also frequently using a certain lane of travel back and forth from their bedding area to their chosen food source. Bucks will create scrapes along the way from their bedding area to a particular food source in intervals of about 20 to 50 yards in most cases.

Bucks will usually create a scrape line sometime around early to mid-October and will continue to use and check these scrapes up until the rut kicks into high gear toward the middle of November.

How to Hunt a Scrape Line

If you plan to hunt over a scrape line, it’s best to do so during the morning hours as most bucks will work their scrapes during the night and move toward their bedding area shortly after the sunrise. In some cases, mature bucks will actually show up during the mid-morning hours to check their scrapes during late October or early November.

It’s best to hunt over a scrape line in the few short weeks just before the rut begins in your specific area. For much of the United States, the rut fully begins in the middle of November, so it’s best to hunt over scrapes and scrape lines in the month before the rut kicks off.

Conclusion

There is a lot of information related to scrapes that can be found online and wildlife biologists are still working to understand the subtle nuances of just how whitetail bucks utilize scrapes in a way to communicate their presence with one another. Regardless of your level of understanding when it comes to scrapes and when to hunt over them, the information in this article should help you get off to a productive start as it relates to scrape hunting in the next season.

Thank you for reading my article! I hope you enjoyed it, and if you have any questions or feedback, please send me an email at [email protected]. If you want to learn more about me or Omega Outdoors, visit my About Page. Otherwise, I hope you have a great day, and check out some of my other articles while you’re here!

There was a time when I was exclusively in love with the 7.62x51mm for every rifle task.

According to the gun magazines at that time, the 5.56 was an abject failure in both Iraq and Afghanistan. So, I became convinced that the round was a poodle shooter.

Then, I joined the infantry and went to figure it out for myself.

Over my deployments, I carried weapons chambered in both 7.62 and 5.56 and got a good idea of how both worked and where they were successful.

Like most things in life, they both have their place and the roles in which they succeed. The idea that you have to choose one over the other is silly.

Own both.

From there, you can choose the right tool for the task at hand.

Before you go selecting one or the other, though, it helps to know the real difference between them. Where do they stand in a side-by-side contest and when should you use one over the other?

Lucky for you, that is what we are exploring today. We’ll touch on the history of each round, its purpose, and ultimately which is the right cartridge for the job.

7.62x51mm NATO

With so many 7.62 rounds, I have to distinguish this one as x51mm.

This .30 caliber projectile has long been a popular choice for both rifles and handguns. Developed as a replacement for the .30-06, it was standardized with our European allies through the newly created NATO.

The 7.62x51mm became the round de jour for infantry rifles and machine guns.

Though it was short-lived as an infantry rifle cartridge in the United States, it saw wider use across NATO.

It’s worth mentioning, this caliber still sees action in sniper rifles, designated marksman rifles, and machine guns within the U.S. military.

During the development of the 7.62x51mm, Winchester saw the commercial potential and developed the .308 Winchester.

The .308 Win. is, fundamentally, the same round but intended for the civilian market.

5.56x45mm NATO

You’re probably used to see 5.56x45mm NATO a lot more than 7.62x51mm NATO. There’s a reason for that.

The 5.56 was the successor to the 7.62 in terms of general military use. It became the infantry cartridge of choice during the Vietnam War.

Developed from the commercial .223 Remington, minor alterations were made during the 5.56’s development.

Shooter Beware: 5.56 should NEVER be fired in .223 marked rifles. (But .223 can be fired in 5.56 rifles.)

After its initial growing pains, the 5.56 cartridge proved to be incredibly successful.

The round serves to this day in the hands of most U.S. troops.

Paired with the vast majority of America’s favorite rifle — the AR-15 — 5.56 NATO has become one of the most popular rounds in the nation.

The Money

Before we dive into the performance, size, and uses of these calibers, let’s talk about the most common make or break for anything…

Money.

5.56 is the substantially cheaper route.

The cost of 5.56 versus 7.62 NATO is often a 50% difference in price per round. Rarely do you see 7.62 NATO below 40 cents per round.

Note: those are normal prices and we are far from normal at the time of this writing.

Whenever an event occurs that drives up demand, the first batch of rounds to hit sky-high prices are almost always 9mm and 5.56. The year 2020 is no exception with 5.56 NATO a rarity in the marketplace and crazy expensive when it does pop up.

At this point, 5.56 and 7.62 NATO are both more than a buck a round.

The Size Difference

You can easily visualize the size difference when you utilize the metric measurements to describe the rounds.

The 7.62x51mm is a much bigger round — not only in projectile size but also in weight and case length.

5.56 ammunition, on the other hand, is shorter in length and thus lighter to carry.

Let’s run some numbers.

A fully loaded 30-round AR-15 magazine weighs about 16-ounces, give or take. A fully loaded 20-round SCAR H magazine weighs 17.6-ounces.

That’s a substantial increase in weight with a decrease in ammo.

Ask any soldier, the average infantryman would rather carry more ammunition. More ammo equals more suppressive fire while bettering the ability to maneuver.

Let’s be honest here, the M16 saw some growing pains in its early days. That said, the M16’s adoption proved to be successful just based on the logistics of combat.

In my experience as a machine gunner carrying the M249 light machine gun, I was able to tote 1,000 rounds of linked 5.56 ammunition. The ammo was lightweight, as was the weapon.

When I took the 7.62 chambered M240 medium machine gun, I carried only 600 rounds and distributed 400 more throughout my squad.

Performance Matters

While 5.56 might be the lighter ammo weight, it’s also lighter in performance power.

The 7.62x51mm has some real punch behind it with the round retaining tremendous energy compared to the 5.56. The heavier duty 7.62 NATO is still used in the military due to the extra power and range it offers.

When comparing the 5.56 M885A1 load and the 7.62 NATO M80 round, we see the big differences upfront.

7.62 retains over 1,700 foot-pounds of energy at 500-yards versus 5.56 which hits 950 foot-pounds at 500-yards.

Pushing out to 1,000-yards, the 7.62 M80 loads retain over 1,000 foot-pounds of energy.

That extra power makes it a more capable long-range round.

Even at moderate ranges, it outperforms the 5.56 ballistically, penetrating deeper and transfering more energy.

Remember when we said the .308 Win is the civilian form of the 7.62 NATO?

.308 Win’s performance, like its 7.62 sibling, earned it high praise among hunters. Power paired with a short-action capable design and moderate recoil made the .308 Win family an excellent round to take down large game on hunts.

Though the 7.62 NATO load whips the 5.56 in range, power, and penetration, that all comes at a cost.

What is that, you ask?

Cartridge length and weight as well as muzzle rise and recoil.

When compared to the 5.56, it’s easy to see why the 5.56 is called a poodle shooter.

Overall, 5.56 is a much kinder, gentler experience.

There is something to be said for too much power and too much penetration.

A 7.62 NATO load is a bit much for home-defense when you start factoring in neighbors.

Miss a shot and that very powerful round will be flying very far and through lots of potential walls.

Where the 5.56 Dominates

The 5.56 NATO is one of the best infantry fighting calibers in the world.

It’s fought for decades and done an excellent job at its role as a general infantry cartridge.

Sure, it’s not perfect, but the cartridge has proven to be a reliable warfighting cartridge.

Best used within 300-yards, the 5.56 can be pushed out to 500-yards.

It’s a great close-quarters fighting cartridge and has very little risk of over-penetration should a miss occur.

Recoil and muzzle rise are naturally quite limited, which makes it an excellent round for shooters of all sizes.

Well-suited to the competitive market where speed rules, the 5.56 is a great companion in multi-gun events. The 5.56 AR-15 absolutely dominates the competition!

Competitions aside, 5.56/.223 Rem. can be used for close-range hunting on small to medium game.

Anything larger than a whitetail deer, though, should be taken with a larger, more potent cartridge.

The 5.56 and .223 Rem. are perfect for targets closer than 300-yards and for shooters looking for a lightweight, compact platform.

Where the 7.62x51mm Rules

The 7.62x51mm and .308 Win. are both powerful cartridges with long-range potential.

Perfect for Precision Rifle matches, these rounds, in general, work well in long-range shooting events.

They have their place in the heavy metal division of multi-gun matches as well.

If you’re looking to get into long-range shooting — and by that, we mean 500-yards plus — starting with the 7.62 NATO is one of the easiest routes to take.

Ammo is common, affordable, not to mention, lots of data, gear, and optics are produced with 7.62 NATO in mind.

.308 Win. is one of the most popular North American hunting cartridges. Used in bolt-actions and semi-auto guns with easily manageable magazine platforms, the cartridge can take deer, hogs, predators, and even bear with the right rifle.

When you need a little more range and a lot more power to achieve a task, the .308 Win and 7.62 NATO loads are perfect.

Favorite 5.56 and 7.62 NATO

Ok, now you know what’s what…so which brands do we prefer at Pew Pew Tactical?

Glad you asked.

Here is a collection of our favorite 5.56 and 7.62 NATO rounds. (Don’t blame us if they’re out of stock, though. Ammo shortage, and all…)

Conclusion

Let’s be real, 7.62 and 5.56 NATO are excellent fighting cartridges with long, battle-proven histories. 5.56 may be better suited for home defense and 7.62 rules long-range matches and big-game hunting, but both cartridges perform well in their respective roles.

So how do you as the shooter choose between the two? Identify the task, target, and goal. From there, you can choose a caliber and platform that fits those metrics.

Cartridge wars are always silly, and people rarely prove one popular cartridge is better than another. Different rounds have different purposes, and there is plenty of room at the table for everyone to sit.

Which is for you? 5.56? 7.62 NATO? Both? Let us know below which you prefer and why. Want more? Check out the Best 7.62x51mm Ammo and the Best AR-15 Ammo!