Iguanas are a type of lizard that is found in warm climates. They come in a variety of sizes, with the largest species reaching up to six feet in length. The biggest iguana in the world is the green iguana, which can grow up to seven feet long and weigh up to 20 pounds. Green iguanas are native to Central and South America, and can be found in the wild in countries such as Costa Rica, Panama, and Ecuador.

Its brightly colored and dragon-like appearance make it one of the most popular iguana species. They are mostly harmless to humans, but they can be irritating. The largest iguana genus in the world is the Fiji crested iguana. Almost all Melanesian iguanas are critically endangered, according to the International Union for Conservation of Nature. Only the Marine iguana can be found in the ocean, and it is the only reptile known to spend a significant amount of time in the water. Their swimming abilities allow them to dive to depths of 65 feet and a depth of 15 feet. One of the largest spiny-tailed species in the world, measuring more than four and a half feet in length.

The Galapagos Islands are home to all three species of the genus. The blue iguana was thought to be 69 years old when it died. A Rock iguana’s longevity is well-known. A 41-year-old captive-born rock iguana is currently the world’s longest-living rock iguana. A dry forested area with eroded limestone and sparse vegetation is ideal for Rock iguanas. The ten species recognized are vulnerable, endangered, critically endangered, and two of them have been declared as critically endangered. A green iguana has a typical size of almost five feet, though some have grown to be nearly six feet long.

What Is The Biggest Iguana Found In Florida?

Credit: Oddee

The biggest iguana found in florida is the green iguana. It is a large, tree-dwelling lizard that is native to Central and South America. The green iguana is the largest member of the genus Iguana and can grow to be over 6 feet long and weigh up to 20 pounds.

There is no native iguana species in Florida. Invasive species currently occupy the majority of the state’s land. Despite the fact that these lizards are misunderstood and wreaking havoc, they are frequently misdiagnosed as invasive nuisances. Their feces and elaborate burrows have caused significant damage to man-made and natural structures. The Mexican spiny-tailed iguana grows to be a little shorter than 5 feet and weighs between 5 and 15 pounds. In the 1970s, independent reptile release programs were the most effective way to introduce these lizards to South Florida. By the time Florida’s environmental agencies could intervene, there were thousands living in various counties.

A Mexican spiny-tailed iguana is the most common iguana species found in Florida. Adult green iguanas can grow to be over five feet long and weigh more than 15 pounds. They are prolific breeders, laying nearly 40 eggs per hour. According to research, Florida currently has over 20,000 residents. Fewer cold spells have resulted in them surviving in winter, thanks to climate change.

Largest Green Iguana Ever

Credit: blogspot.com

Each species has its own size, but the largest iguana measured was 5.2 feet long. Two of the ten recognized species are vulnerable, four are endangered, and four are critically endangered.

A iguana is a stocky lizard with a broad head, a saggy skin on its throats, and spines that protrude from its head, neck, backs, and tails. The green iguana, which measures between 5 and 7 feet, is the longest of the iguanas. For example, the female rock iguana can lay up to 20 eggs. The mother’s actions indicate that she is leaving the eggs alone. A baby iguana is completely independent for the first three years of its life. Predators and habitat loss are responsible for the extinction of many young birds. The Galapagos marine iguana, despite its dark skin, can swim through water like a crocodile. The population of the Fiji banded iguana has decreased by 50% between 30 and 45 years. People in Central and South America raise and consume iguanas on farms.

Biggest Iguana Caught In Florida

In Florida, the largest iguana on record was 4 feet 5 inches long and weighed 35 pounds. It was caught in 2009 by a fisherman in Key West.

Ich habe gerade den grten Leguan aller Zeiten gefangen, wenn Sie meine Instagram-Geschichte gesehen haben, wir haben noch ein monster Die Seiten von der Dings ist auch hier verrckt, and ber das fest ist das gemacht. The Ding ist gewaltig, oh nein, geht es ins Rollen gebracht, Bruder, hr von rollen, Baby, das ist so im Gegensatz The 400 Pfund we’re offering is for a limited time, so I’ll take advantage of it. When you want to hear a fangen, sing hier. Ich hier diesen Angelschnur haben, aber die Hundert-Pfund-Test von diesen Angelschnur ist, hier diesen Angelschnur trotzdemern. Ich brauche dich, um, derzeit sehr heim, hier, ihr heute, das weiter daran ziehen. I’m glad I chose trainieren rather than boarding a plane, and I’m glad I chose train-enriching rather than boarding a plane. In der grten dominanten wilder Leguan, he ist.

Is that a sign of my life? Weiter hier berspringst schauen geben, wie er hier so beeindruckend ist? I am so fortunate that I have so many great friends, especially in Germany, that I have found a special place for them all, so thank you very much for all of the wonderful things you have given me. I will be pleased to report that I have found a special place for them Is that versuche you’re looking for, or is it just you making a fool of yourself? ich in Sd Florida, die hier aber die We have Bass Pro Shops located in every city across the country; if you want to make sure you get the best service and prices, please visit our store. Is there any significance to Iggy Jungs, bleiben Sie dran, danke fr Abonnieren, or werde ich es Ihnen sagen Jungs ber die TV-Shows, die herauskommen, and lasst mich e

Giant Iguanas In Florida: Just A Rumo

Despite this, the state has been rumored to be home to giant iguanas. People believe there are giant iguanas in Florida because they have seen the animals on TV or in photos. In Florida, there are no native iguanas; instead, iguanas are invasive species. As a result, there is no such thing as an iguana that can grow to be enormous in Florida.

Iguana Lifespan

An iguana’s lifespan ranges between 12 and 15 years. An iguana can live for more than 20 years if it is properly cared for.

It’s worth noting that iguanas are fairly long-lived lizards, particularly captive-bred ones. A baby iguana that is sold in captivity can live up to 30 years. The average lifespan of a iguana is thought to be 20 years. Pets like these require special housing and veterinary care, so some people may not be appropriate for them. For iguanas to be kept, they must be kept in a comfortable environment. As a young adult, a 42 enclosure is commonly used by keepers. Because your rhinoceros iguana requires UVB lamps, you should select the best UVB lamp for him.

When basking on the iguana, both UVA and UVB are welcome. The rhinoceros iguana‘s name is derived from a bony-plated pseudo-horn or outgrowth that resembles rhinoceros horn. Skin colors range from blue grey to a dark green to brown, depending on the skin type. It is critical to feed a variety of foods to Iggy in order for him to be healthy and happy. At all times, iguanas require fresh, clean water. When it comes to humidity, your iguana should be in a good range of 65-80%. It shed like any other reptile or lizard as a result of its being a rhinoceros iguana.

It can be difficult to shed hair when the air temperature is insufficient or too hot. When you gnashed a iguana, you needed to keep its humidity constant. After two or three years of age, juvenile iguanas shed a thin layer of skin on their bodies. To avoid sticking to the animals new skin, the air must be humid enough to prevent it from sticking. Make sure the products are simple to clean and replace.

There are no predators in the wild that can keep the Grand Cayman blue iguana in check for 40 years. Despite their lack of human intervention, they are impressive. A 40-year-old rhinoceros iguana, known only as Rhino, has been recognized as the world’s oldest living iguana by Guinness World Records. Rhino, the world’s oldest rhinoceros, reached 40 years and 278 days old on November 27, 2020, and lives at the Australia Zoo, which was purchased by Steve Irwin’s widow,Terri, in 2011. Steve Irwin, a wildlife conservation and film maker who was killed by a stingray while filming sharks in 2003, was a well-known wildlife conservation and film maker. The rhinoceros is a testament to the preservation of Irwin’s conservation legacy. This incredible story of survival is an inspiring example of the power and resilience of nature.

By Tom Kelly

The resurgence in lighter, sleeker shotguns has prompted some of the major shotgun manufacturers to introduce some newer versions of the 16 gauge in the last few years.

The 16 gauge was another victim of the magnum craze. It seemed like for a while if it didn’t have a 3” or 3 ½” chamber, it didn’t sell. Well, like many of the other magnums, when people started shooting them, they lost some of their luster. In the last 10 to 15 years, there has been a resurgence of the smaller gauge shotguns. There are even people hunting turkeys with .410 bores. Here in the north country, we still appreciate a good upland game gun. Many 16 gauge shotguns fill this job admirably.

Slug Options

The 16 gauge can fulfill the role of an all around game gun in a very sleek classic style. In places like Massachusetts, where deer can only be hunted with shotguns, a 16 gauge loaded with slugs can be an effective tool. It can also be accomplished in a lighter sleeker shotgun. I have also had bear clients successfully harvest black bears with 16 gauge slugs. The niche where this midsized gauge really shines, however, is for upland game. There are few places a Browning sweet 16 or an Ithica Mod 37 Featherweight swings as smoothly as when following partridge weave through the trees. Countless snowshoe hare have also fallen to a 1 oz load of #6’s from these classic guns.

In the 40s and 50s, approximately 25% of the sporting shotguns sold were 16 gauge models. Sadly, that is no longer the case. There are still many fans of the 16 bore. Unfortunately, most of these fans are now senior citizens. As an example, my lifelong hunting partner and friend Bob, whom you have all heard about, has 3 Browning Sweet 16 shotguns. One is set up with a low power scope for slug shooting, one has a modified choke for pheasants over dogs and the third has an improved cylinder for partridge and hare.

Specs The specs of the 16 gauge are pretty respectable for these aforementioned purposes. The bore measures .662 of an inch. Shotshells can be had in 1 oz or 1 1/8 oz payloads. A 1 1/8 oz load of #6 shot leaves the muzzle at 1423 fps. That will catch a fleeing hare and put his tail over his ears quickly.

The resurgence in lighter, sleeker shotguns has prompted some of the major shotgun manufacturers to introduce some newer versions of the 16 gauge in the last few years. Browning has reintroduced the classic sweet 16 with some modern touches. Browning is also offering the Citori 725 over and under in this gauge. Savage Arms and Franchi, are also making 16 gauge over and under shotguns. CZ is offering a Sharptail side by side in 16 gauge. These all feature a reduced size receiver to add to the lines.

Hopefully, a new generation of 16 gauge fans will respond to these new offerings. Some of the old classics can still be found on used gun racks. The good news is used 16 gauge shotguns usually sell for less than comparable 12 or 20’s. Remember a lightweight Browning Sweet 16 would make a perfect 1st shotgun for that new shooter you are bringing along.

Tom is a Registered Maine Guide. He is the owner/operator of Shamrock Outfitters in Orient Maine with his wife Ellie. He is a retired police officer as well as a retired manager from two major firearms manufacturers. He is an NRA Certified Instructor as well as a Hunter Safety Instructor in Maine, New Hampshire and Massachusetts. You can reach Tom at Shamrock Outfitters (207) 694-2473. Please visit our Facebook Page: Shamrock Outfitters and Properties and come visit us on East Grand Lake.

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by Pete Cooper Jr.

The waters within interior salt and brackish marshes across virtually the entire Gulf coast hold red drum throughout most of the year. However, these fish are not pushovers. That is entirely a result of their environment and the main reason why so many anglers have trouble successfully fishing here. If you are one of those but would like to solve the riddle and experience the exciting action found in these areas, try adhering to the following tips.

Interior marshes are typically comprised of broad stands of various emergent grasses pocked with shallow ponds – with or without submerged grasses – and laced with small, shallow creeks and cuts. As the tide rises, it floods these ponds and shoreline grasses along the cuts or creeks. The rising water makes these sites accessible to various prey species. Those creatures now move into these nutrient-rich areas, and the redfish follow.

In interior areas it is almost always best to follow the fish into the shallowest water that you can operate your boat. As the tide continues to rise, continue to look for shallow spots. Water over 1 1/2 feet deep quickly becomes a detriment, as it masks signs of a fish’s presence.

Periods of slack tide – either on the low end or the high end – are usually best spent taking a nap or returning to the marina for a bite. Just be sure you are back on the water when the tide begins to move again. When it starts to fall, target the creeks and cuts.

These can be worked effectively by either moving along their shorelines where the falling water is pulling bait from the recently flooded grass or by anchoring at the point where a cut drains a pond. There, the current created by the water falling through the cut pulls prey from the pond. Redfish are well attracted to these feeding stations.

As a rule, redfish in open water aren’t all that bright, and some of them can act like they want to be caught. However, if you assume the fish you encounter in the marshes are so afflicted, you won’t catch many of them.

You must move about very stealthily while fishing shallow ponds and creeks. Paddling is best if your boat allows it. Push-poling ranks a close second and provides better visibility, but it’s rather difficult to make a quick, accurate cast with a 16-foot push-pole in one hand. Unless there’s a buddy aboard who is willing to alternate rod and push-pole with you, sculling while sitting on the boat’s bow is the better option if at all possible.

If you are averse to paddling, the water’s depth is sufficient and there isn’t a profusion of submerged grass in the area, a bow-mounted trolling motor can be used effectively. But it should be set on the lowest speed that produces headway.

Whatever method of propulsion you decide on, go slowly. While that allows you to search for fish more effectively, the main reason is to prevent the boat from creating large pulses through the water that can be detected by the fish, alerting them that something is not quite right. Reds often simply swim out of the way of a boat that is just creeping along, not in the least bit alarmed. Others caught unaware may bolt, but after they dash off a ways they occasionally seem to forget what all the fuss was about. A cast at fish that respond to the boat’s presence in these manners can result in strikes you would have not received had your boat been pushing a large wave through the water.

One of the most exciting things about fishing the waters within interior marshes is that much of it is done by sight. As you move stealthily along, always look and listen for signs of fish.

A large wake moving slowly along the edge of a small pond or creek channel is definitely worth a speculative cast. A much better bet is the tip of a tail intermittently puncturing the water’s surface beside a patch of submerged grass. An entire tail waving merrily at you anywhere you might encounter one is almost a sure thing.

Then there are “crawlers” – fish which move with some purpose in water so thin that their dorsal fins and part of their backs are exposed. These fish might also appear to be almost a sure thing, but they demand a very precise cast. Unlike a “tailer,” which is a stationary target, a crawler must be led just far enough to prevent the lure’s impact from spooking the fish, yet close enough for the fish to detect it. Knowing just how much to lead the fish is determined in great part by experience and blind dumb luck! Do not expect consistent results with crawlers – but then, that’s what makes fishing for them such a hoot.

In clear water, redfish can be detected relatively easily beneath the surface. For best results, work the up-wind shorelines where emergent vegetation creates a calm surface. Move along in the direction allowing the best sub-surface visibility. Wear amber or yellow polarized sunglasses and a cap that is dark green on the underside of the bill. If you are moving along slowly and stealthily, you can spot these fish quite close to the boat, so be prepared for a short, quick cast with minimal movement.

On first inspection, a pond, creek or cut may seem to be relatively featureless. This is not the case. Irregularities abound and are often quite attractive to bait species seeking nourishment or shelter. In such places, redfish are likely to be nearby.

Small grass points in a creek’s shoreline may extend into water that is slightly deeper than that found along the adjacent bank. Here any current may be slightly stronger, causing bait to be carried along by the flow. Such a feature makes a good ambush point and should be prospected with a cast or two wherever found.

Other good spots are at intersections, especially where one cut or creek is much different from the other. It can be larger, smaller or shallower, just as long as the two channels differ. These sites are usually best on a falling tide, but they can be productive during the low end of a rising tide. Particularly target any shoreline shallows located there.

During low tide you may notice some shells on the bank of a creek. These may extend well out into the waterway, providing protection for prey species. Never pass up an accumulation of shoreline shells without making a cast or two across the water next to them.

Finally, fish may be found anywhere in ponds where the bottom is carpeted with thinly growing submerged grasses. But places where the grass grows in thick patches – often matting on the surface – tend to limit the area used by the fish. Take plenty of time looking around and casting a pond that has clumps of matted grass scattered throughout it.

Some of the hottest lures going these days for reds in interior marshes are spoon flies. They are not really flies but were created for use with fly rods. These lures do look and act like a single-hook spoon. They are very light and sink quite slowly, usually have a mono weed guard. The lures wobble and flash about, emitting audible as well as visible imitations of a baitfish. Though small at 1 1/4 inches, the redfish absolutely love them!

Of course, spin-fishermen can employ very similar lures. In this setting, especially with clear water, a small and loud 1/5-ounce, single-hook spoon can be a good choice. In areas where submerged grass presents a problem, try a 1/8-ounce buzzbait dressed with a 2 1/2-inch soft-plastic grub. In the slightly deeper cuts and creeks, junior-sized surface lures can produce some very entertaining strikes.

But day in and day out, the most reliable lure is a spinnerbait created from a gold, No. 3 1/2 safety-pin spinner, a 1/8-ounce jighead, and a 2 1/2-inch grub. With that you can make a relatively delicate presentation to a crawler, buzz it past a tailer at the edge of a thick patch of grass, or prospect the intersections, points and accumulations of shells along a creek’s shoreline.

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Nostalgia, desirability and collectability are closely linked, and such is the case with what has arguably become one of America’s most popular wartime weapons, a rifle that Lt. Gen. George S. Patton, Jr. once called “The greatest battle implement ever devised.”

He was, of course, referring to the M1 Garand, the primary shoulder arm of U.S. troops during World War II and beyond. In fact, the Garand continued to serve our GIs throughout the Korean War and was reenlisted as a sniper rifle in Vietnam. And although there was a time when WWII vets didn’t have a choice of Garands—they simply had to take the gun that was issued to them—today’s shooters and collectors can select from varying conditions, styles and price ranges. After all, with more than 6 million M1 Garands produced between 1936 and 1957, the “U.S. Rifle, Caliber .30, M1,” as it was officially known, is still very much with us.

Although no longer our official battle rifle, the M1 Garand continues to prove itself as a National Match gun and in events that include CMP and 3-Gun competitions, not to mention reenactments, casual target shooting, hunting and collecting.

In fact, it is as a collectible that the M1 Garand has come into its own in a way that might surprise many who simply saw it as a rugged, no-nonsense wartime tool. Today’s surviving M1s have become much more than that as the supply of good shootable and collectible versions is starting to dry up. Consequently, prices have been rising over the past few years. Much of this increased demand is due to the realization of the Garand’s growing historical significance, which is being kept alive in movies and on TV.

Obviously, the M1 Garand was not a major factor in Hollywood before World War II, but beginning with The Story of G.I. Joe (1945), and escalating with such post-war blockbusters as To Hell and Back with Audie Murphy (1955), The Longest Day with John Wayne (1963) and Saving Private Ryan (1998), among others, the memory of the Garand continues to be kept front and center, thanks to DVD and cable TV.

Likewise, these same factors are at play in both old and new TV programs such as Combat! (1962-67), M*A*S*H (1972-83), Band of Brothers (2001) and The Pacific (2010). Thus, while the demand for Garands keeps increasing, the number of existing originals is diminishing—especially those with GI parts.

This is especially frustrating for those who are looking for the Holy Grail of M1 Garands: a gun with all matching armory components. To be sure, there was a time when every M1 Garand had all matching parts, original wood and no import stamps. But those cherished examples existed just prior to and during World War II—and only as each rifle rolled off the assembly line.

As soon the Garand went into battle, it immediately became subject to the mix-and-match vicissitudes of military armorers whose job it was to keep these accurate and rapid-firing rifles battle ready. Parts were swapped and stocks were changed with no thought that these firearms would one day become collectible.

Of course, some perfect specimens still can be found, but these are, for the most part, guns that saw little or no battlefield use or were otherwise preserved in their “as-issued” state. Most are in museums or private collections, and when they come on the market, their prices reflect their scarcity.

All of which brings up the question of which Garand represents the best value? The answer is, it all depends on the individual. After all, a reenactor is not going to drag a minty original through the mud or rake it over a barbed wire fence.

On the other hand, I have no compunction about taking my re-Parkerized Garand with its new Criterion barrel out on a coyote hunt. And even if it’s a used collectible with all GI parts, it won’t hurt to take it out to the range. I mean, these rifles were made for combat. But before we get into the choices of Garands available today, a brief overview about the rifle might be helpful.

The M1 Garand derives its name from its inventor, a Canadian named Jean Cantius Garand, who was born on January 1, 1888, in Quebec and eventually emigrated to the United States, where he became a naturalized citizen and anglicized his first name to John.

It was Gen. Douglas MacArthur who brought young Garand to Springfield Armory, where he subsequently developed the Model 1 rifle (hence “M1”)—a “gas operated, clip fed, semi-automatic shoulder weapon,” to quote from the Army’s field training manual. Designed to replace the Springfield 1903-A3 bolt action, the popularity of Garand’s rifle would become so great that it became synonymous with the inventor’s surname.

Chambered for the standard .30 Government cartridge, the M1 was loaded via an eight-shot, en bloc stamped steel clip, which ejected with a loud “ping” after the last shot was fired. This also locked the bolt open. The rifle was then quickly reloaded by pressing a new loaded clip straight down into the receiver with the thumb, while keeping the bolt pressed back with the fleshy part of the hand.

Once the clip was fully inserted, the hand was quickly lifted, permitting the spring-driven bolt to slam home, chambering a round on the way. However, care had to be taken to make sure the thumb was raised out of the receiver, lest the shooter end up with a blood-blacked thumbnail, which was colloquially known as an “M1 thumb.”

The Garand was officially adopted by the U.S. Army in 1936. It was a timely move, because five years later we entered World War II. Interestingly, only two companies manufactured the M1 Garand during WWII. Springfield was the original producer, but with war imminent, in 1939 Winchester was also contracted to make the M1.

Although numerous minor changes were incorporated throughout the Garand’s existence, one of the most notable occurred in 1940, when the original gas trap system was changed to a gas port.

In addition, rifles produced by both Springfield and Winchester initially featured a thick milled trigger guard with a hole in the rear portion of the guard to enable a steel cleaning rod or similar object to be passed through it to facilitate pulling the guard back and up, in order to lift it out of the barrel and receiver group for disassembly.

However, in 1943 Springfield Armory adopted a stamped steel trigger guard as a cost-savings measure. Winchester, though, retained the milled guard during its entire production run of 513,880 rifles, which ended in 1945. By comparison, Springfield Armory produced slightly more than 3.5 million rifles during WWII.

During the Korean conflict, beginning in 1952, Harrington & Richardson and International Harvester were enlisted along with Springfield Armory to manufacture M1 Garands. These were the only four authorized manufacturers of government-issued M1s; Winchester made Garands only during WWII.

Also during World War II, but before we entered that conflict, a number of “lend-lease” Garands were shipped to our allies, most notably Great Britain. British guns are often marked with a red band painted on the fore-end. However, few Garands were issued to British troops, and of the few authenticated British lend lease guns I have seen, all appeared to have their original issue parts. Many postwar Garands were exported as “surplus” guns and have been returned to the U.S. over the years and bear import marks, which adversely affect their collectibility but not their shootability.

It should be noted that after the Armistice, approximately 4 million Garands—easily two-thirds of the total production—were reconditioned by Springfield Armory. Parts were replaced, guns were re-Parkerized and often rebarreled. Thus, the chances of finding an “as-issued” Garand today is extremely rare, although many collectors are buying original G.I. parts with the correct armory stampings to reassemble an “original” gun. While this isn’t exactly a devious practice, it is becoming an expensive one, as original parts are becoming harder to find and therefore more costly.

There are the only four armory stampings you should find on an M1 Garand: “SA” for guns produced by Springfield Armory, “W.R.A.” for Winchester Repeating Arms, “H.R.A.” or “H&R” for Harrington & Richardson and “IHC” for International Harvester Corp. In addition, the stocks are usually stamped with the government’s “circle P” proofed cartouche (found directly behind the trigger guard and in line with it), the inspector’s stamp and crossed-cannon ordnance marks on the left side of the stock, and the eagle and stars design of the Department of Defense Acceptance stamp.

There may also be a small crossed cannon stamp on the bottom of the pistol grip on Springfield Armory manufactured rifles made during World War II. Of course, these stampings are not always sharp or even legible, and many have been obliterated completely thanks to overzealous cleaning or just normal wear.

Matching armory stampings on all components are important for a collectible Garand but not for a shooter. For a shooter the main criteria are how the gun functions, the condition of the bore and the headspace. And although the most desirable M1s are those made by Winchester, some sellers may charge slightly more for a Garand with a Winchester receiver even though the rest of the parts are not marked “W.R.A.”

As a rule, there is a premium for Garands with all matching parts, even rebuilds. But it is often difficult if not impossible to tell whether a Garand has been reassembled with parts from another gun. Obviously, most of them have. Determining the degree of finish—making sure all the parts have the same amount of wear and that the Parkerizing colors match—is one method. When in doubt, try to find an experienced collector and get a second opinion. And if purchasing a minty gun for a minty price, insist on getting a detailed bill of sale.

Another problem facing Garand purchasers is that, for some unknown reason, many former owners have felt compelled to sand or refinish the stocks, thereby removing or certainly dulling the original stampings. And then there is the matter of stock replacement itself.

I once acquired an otherwise pristine Garand that had been shipped to the Danish Navy, which replaced the original walnut stock with a birch monstrosity that looked like it had been carved with a jackhammer. The first thing I did was to replace the stock with a used GI version I found on eBay. If a government pedigree is not of concern, excellent repro stocks are offered by Boyd’s and Fulton Armory.

As for prices of original Garands, at a recent gunshow in Ventura, Calif., I found an aftermarket mash-up of parts (many from non-G.I. sources) for $600, while at Wally Beinfeld’s Antique Arms Show in Las Vegas two years ago, I saw a pristine, World War II Garand that looked like all it was lacking was the cosmoline. It also carried a $3,750 price tag. In between these two extremes are a number of World War II, Korean and import veterans.

If you want a top-of-the-line, historically correct reconditioned shooter, I’d suggest contacting someone like James River Armory where for approximately $1,250 (Winchesters are slightly higher) you can get an “arsenal reissued” restored Garand with new but properly cartouched stock, many with an accurate Criterion barrel. Miltech offers rebuilt M1 Garands with match-grade barrels for $1,795 plus M1-D Sniper Rifles for $3,250, complete with M84 scope.

Of course, one of the most popular go-to sources for M1 Garands is the CMP or Civilian Marksmanship Program, although recent runs on its reassembled but 100 percent authentic GI guns has been rapidly drying up supplies. Most of the lesser priced (i.e., Rack Grade) guns are currently sold out as are all Winchester Garands, but those still available include Field Grades at $625, Special Grades at $995 (which feature new stocks and Criterion barrels) and M1C Sniper Models (ranging from $1,600 to $3,000 but without scopes or cheek pads).

Still, the thing to remember is that 100 percent original Garands, while costing more, will always appreciate faster. Obviously, if you start to put wear and tear on these old warhorses, their values will diminish appropriately. On the other hand, if you purchase a low- to medium-grade shooter, it will always be worth about what you paid for it and over the long term might even appreciate in value slightly, given the ever declining supply of original M1s.

And keep in mind that the Garand was made to disassemble, so metal parts can easily be replaced, but once a wooden stock is gouged or cracked, it stays that way forever. And to my mind, there is nothing uglier than a rough-textured stock.

So my advice is to buy the very best Garand you can afford, shoot it, enjoy it, treat it with respect and, to paraphrase the old Army adage, take care of your Garand, and it will take care of you.

Archery is a rewarding and exciting sport that requires a combination of skill, focus, and physical fitness. While it is generally considered a safe sport, certain injuries can occur if proper precautions are not taken, leading to serious archery injuries. However, this should not scare you away from it. As an archer, one way to simply minimize the risk is by practicing archery safety and taking appropriate precautions. The most typical archery injuries are in the arm and shoulder and can be avoided by using the proper technique and allowing for proper recovery. In this article, we will discuss the most common archery injuries and how you can avoid them.

What Are The Most Common Archery Injuries?

Archery injuries can be caused by various factors, such as poor technique, improper equipment, overtraining, or a lack of physical conditioning. The most common archery injuries include tendinitis, strains, sprains, blisters, and calluses. These injuries can range from minor to severe and affect different parts of the body, such as the shoulder, elbow, wrist, back, neck, and fingers. Here’s an overview of some of the common archery related injuries.

Tendonitis

Tendinitis is an inflammation of the tendons that can occur in the shoulders, elbows, or wrists. Tendonitis of the elbow is the most common form experienced by archers and is referred to as “Archer’s Elbow”. This is often caused by repetitive motions of drawing the bow and improper technique, which can result in microscopic tears in the tendons. The symptoms commonly seen here are stiffness, tenderness, sharp pain, a dull ache-particularly when moving the injured area, and mild swelling in the affected area.

How To Prevent Tendonitis In Archery?

To prevent tendinitis, it is essential to warm up before shooting and to stretch your arms, shoulders, and back. Be sure to include specific strength training exercises to strengthen your archery muscles. Additionally, it is important to use proper technique and form to avoid overuse of muscles involved in bow drawing. Also, ensure your draw weight isn’t more than you can comfortably handle. Taking regular breaks and rest when you start to feel fatigued can also help prevent tendinitis.

Strains And Sprains

Strains and sprains are common injuries that can occur in the back, neck, or bow arm shoulder resulting from overstretched or torn muscles and ligaments. These injuries can be caused by poor posture or improper form. Symptoms include severe joint pain, stiffness, and limited range of motion around the affected parts.

Two types of strain that can be experienced include rotator cuff injuries and repetitive strain injuries. The rotator cuff refers to the group of muscles surrounding the shoulder joint that stabilizes the shoulder. As an archer, you put stress on your rotator cuff each time you draw the bow. Injuries to the rotator cuff muscles are usually the result of poor shooting mechanics and repetitive strain.

Repetitive strain injuries, on the other hand, describe an injury to the muscles, nerves, or tendons, particularly of the forearms and elbows or wrists and hands, due to repetitive motion and overuse. You may initially notice symptoms only while performing specific actions. But without proper treatment, symptoms may worsen and become a chronic injury resulting in constant or longer periods of pain and increased healing time.

How To Prevent Strain And Sprain Injuries In Archery?

To prevent strains and sprains, it is important to maintain good posture and technique while shooting. Among the several options of archery stances, choose the one that makes shooting most comfortable. Additionally, taking regular breaks and resting when you start to feel tired can also help prevent strains and sprains. Wearing appropriate and well-fitted protective gear, such as a back or neck brace, can also help reduce the risk of these injuries.

Blisters And Calluses

Blisters and calluses can occur on the fingers from the friction experienced when gripping the bowstring. This is a common injury that can be caused by using the bow for extended periods of time. One of the main symptoms is that the archer will have a reddish and sore finger. However, it could start tearing if not treated, leading to more serious cases that can prevent you from using your bow. To avoid such situations, it is advisable to treat them immediately.

How To Prevent Blisters In Archery?

To prevent blisters and calluses, it is important to use a finger tab or gloves to protect your fingers. It will help cover your fingers and act as a barrier between your fingers and the string. However, it’s important to choose comfortable gloves that won’t interfere with your bow draw, as that can hinder your ability to shoot accurately. Additionally, using a proper bow grip can also help prevent these injuries. Also, ensure you’re placing your fingers on the proper spot on the bowstring and avoid excessive finger tension while hooking the string.

While many archers go for gloves, some use sports tapes for their shooting. And, of course, that isn’t a bad idea. In summary, ensuring proper extra support and protection reduces the risk of injury.

String Slap

String slap is a common injury, especially among beginner archers, regardless of whether you are shooting a compound bow or a recurve bow. It occurs when the bowstring snaps against the inside of the bow arm upon release. Even experienced archers may occasionally experience string slaps. The chances of experiencing a string slap are increased by poor posture or when loose clothes or other items get in the bowstring’s way after it’s released. A string slap is not usually a serious injury and may only result in skin discoloration or a bruise at the point of impact, but it could be pretty painful. To avoid this discomfort and unsightly bruising, it is best to take precautions to prevent string slaps.

How To Prevent String Slap Injuries In Archery?

One main solution to string slap injury is to invest in good quality arm guards and, as much as possible, avoid wearing loose fitting clothing.

Below are other steps that, when practiced diligently, will increase your chances of enjoying your archery experience without string slaps:

• Work on your bow grip: Hold your bow with a relaxed yet firm grip, with the handle resting between your thumb and index finger and your knuckles forming a 45° angle.

• Adjust your brace height: A brace height that’s too short puts your wrist too close to the string, increasing the chances of a string slap. Ensure your bow brace height is kept at a standard for safe arrow fires.

• Practicing proper elbow rotation: Keep your arm out of the string’s path by rotating your elbow out and away.

Extra Tips To Avoid Archery Injuries

In this segment, we will discuss extra tips to help you avoid injury and enjoy the sport safely and injury-free. These tips will help you understand the best practices for preventing archery-related injuries and to make the most of your archery experience.

Equipment

It is important to use the right equipment for your level of skill and physical abilities. Using equipment that is too heavy or too advanced for your skill level can lead to injuries. To prevent equipment-related injuries, it is essential to consult a coach or professional to make sure you are using the right equipment and technique. Additionally, it is important to regularly maintain and check your equipment to ensure it is in good working condition and fit for use.

Overtraining

Overtraining is another common cause of injuries in archery. It is important to listen to your body and to give it time to recover. To prevent overtraining injuries, it is essential to set realistic training goals and to schedule regular rest days. Additionally, it is important to avoid pushing yourself too hard, especially if you are experiencing pain or discomfort.

Physical conditioning

Keeping your body in good physical condition is important for avoiding injuries in archery. This includes overall fitness, flexibility, and strength. A well-conditioned body will be less prone to injuries and will be able to perform better. To prevent injuries related to poor physical condition, it is essential to maintain a regular exercise routine that includes both cardio and strength training. Additionally, it is important to focus on exercises that target the specific muscle groups used in archery, such as the shoulders, back, and arms. Also, it is important to maintain a healthy diet and stay hydrated, as this will help keep your body in optimal condition.

Gradual progression

When starting out in archery, it’s important to start with lower draw weight and shorter draw length, gradually increasing as your strength and technique improve. Using an appropriate draw weight for your strength and skill level will help prevent overuse injuries and allow your body to adapt to the sport gradually.

Proper warm-up

Before shooting, it’s essential to warm up your muscles to prepare them for the activity. This can include light cardio, such as jogging in place and stretching exercises for the shoulders, back, and arms.

Avoid over-drawing

Overdrawing can put unnecessary stress on the shoulder, elbow, and wrist, increasing the risk of injury. It is important to use a bow with the correct draw length for your body size and to avoid over-drawing.

Proper stance and footing

Maintaining a proper stance and footing while shooting can help prevent injury. This includes keeping your feet shoulder-width apart, keeping your back straight, and keeping your weight evenly distributed between both feet. Poor posture can also lead to injury and affect your accuracy. Make sure you keep your back straight, shoulders relaxed, and head up when you shoot.

Listen to your body

Archery is a sport that requires a lot of focus, but it’s essential to listen to your body when it tells you to take a break. If you feel pain or discomfort, stop shooting immediately, and rest until you feel better.

Can I Bypass Archery Injuries If I Follow The Right Practice Techniques?

Yes! By improving your form and following the right archery safety techniques, you have a good chance of bypassing archery injuries and enjoying a safe archery experience. To avoid injuries like blisters, practicing the proper drawing techniques will be particularly helpful.

What’s more? There are a couple of techniques you must not gamble on. These techniques will improve your archery shooting.

Final Takeaway

Archery injuries are common, but they are avoidable. Ways to avoid them include perfecting your stance and draw technique, avoiding overuse of your shoulder and arm muscles, using an appropriate bow weight, and regularly exercising the muscles used in archery. With the guide above, you should be able to know how to deal with the risks that come with archery.

Today I’m going to show you the best 22LR scope for target shooting.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested 18 scopes alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best 22LR optic, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

The 4 Best 22LR Scope for Target Shooting

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best 22LR scopes:

1. Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire: Best Overall 22LR Scope
2. Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire: Best Close-to-Medium Range Scope
3. Bushnell Drop Zone-22 2-7×32: Best Short-range Varmint Hunting
4. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Short-to-Long Range 22LR Scope

1. Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire: Best Overall 22LR Scope

The Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire is the best overall 22LR scope.

I’ve used it for hunting, target shooting, night time hunting and more.

What makes it so versatile?

Keep reading and I’ll show you…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Here’s the thing:

When a scope is positioned at a low price point like the Leupold Freedom Rimfire, it usually equates to reduced quality.

But that’s wasn’t the case here.

In fact, the glass on this scope is just as crisp and clear as the glass used on more expensive Leupold sights.

It’s also great in low light conditions, making the visibility problems I usually face with early morning shooting nonexistent.

But what about the reticle?

It’s a standard duplex reticle set in the second focal plane.

This allows you to have a strong and easy to see reticle at all magnifications.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

It has a whopping 4.1” of eye relief!

That’s more than any other scope on this list.

The best part?

You can shoot with both eyes open, and accurately hit your target without worrying about getting a black eye 🙂

Durability & Weight

The VX-Freedom Rimfire is well built.

It’s crafted with lightweight aluminum that is O-ring sealed and nitrogen purged.

In other words:

It’s completely shockproof, waterproof and fogproof.

In the dead of winter, with snow actively falling, I didn’t have a single temperature or fog related problem.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The dials worked correctly, and are set at ¼ MOA with audible clicks to ensure precision.

However, the knobs feel cheap. The plastic used on the knobs is soft and feels like something you find in a dollar store.

Don’t get me wrong:

The knobs work fine and do exactly what they are supposed to do. I just wish Leupold used a higher quality plastic or even aluminum for the knob.

That being said, they are accurate, easy to use and track true. It’s also easy to zero, and holds zero even with strong recoil or accidental drops.

Magnification & Parallax

The 1.5-4x magnification is perfect for hunting and target shooting.

In fact, I’ve used it up to 200 yards without a problem. Further than that would require more magnification. I’d recommend checking out myVortex Viper HST 4-16×44 Review.

Although parallax is fixed, I experienced no blurriness or fuzziness when shooting within 100 yards.

Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire Review: Is It Worth It?

If you’re looking for the best overall 22 LR scope that will work in almost any situation, then the Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire is for you.

Here’s why. It’s:

• Affordable
• Clear glass
• Lightweight
• Works well in low light
• Short-to-medium range magnification

In short:

The Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire Riflescope is budget friendly and easy to use scope. Plus, it’s backed by Leupold’s lifetime guarantee.

You break it, they’ll fix it…free of charge.

2. Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire: Best Close-to-Medium Range Scope

Looking for the best close-to-medium range scope for target shooting? Then get a Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32.

Not only is it affordable, but the scope’s features is built with quality.

Like what?

Keep reading to find out…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Glass clarity is always one of the defining features on a Vortex optic and the Crossfire II 2-7x is no exception.

This scope has a fully multi-coated lens that provides a stunningly bright and clear view of your target.

The lens also has an anti-reflective coating. This reduces light absorption to minimize any glare that could appear in your sight,

What’s better is the V-plex reticle.

It’s a popular hunting reticle that can be used for about any hunting applications. That’s why I recommended it in my 4 best scopes for Ruger 10/22 guide.

However, it’s wire constructed. Although it’s not bad, it can break and occasionally lose their position.

This reticle is a second focal plane (SFP) which lets you increase or decrease magnification without changing the size of the reticle.

So the reticle gets to do its job without obstructing your view of the target.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

One sure sign of a quality optic is the eye relief.

A good scope should allow you to have a comfortable distance between your eye and the eyepiece while still being able to clearly see the full field of view.

The Crossfire II really delivers in this area. It offers a very forgiving 3.9 inches of eye relief at the lowest magnification and 4.7 inches at the highest magnification.

The eye box (range of positioning behind the eyepiece) is also really generous. This allows for faster target acquisition and is a big reason why this optic can be recommended for both tactical use as well as for hunting.

Durability & Weight

The Vortex reputation is built on the company’s resolve to make a product that endures.

Crossfire II displays all the signs of the vortex standards

Like other Vortex products, the Crossfire II has been designed to surpass the standards of similarly-priced riflescopes.

The hard-anodized tube is made from aircraft-grade aluminum which protects it against scratches and dings.

The design is also shockproof, ensuring that the components aren’t easily jumbled by the movement of your gun. Not to mention movements that come with normal use, such as, having it packed up with the rest of your gear in the back of your truck, or even accidentally knocking it over or dropping it.

The scope is O-ring sealed and nitrogen purged, making it both waterproof and fog proof.

If for some reason any of these features fail or your scope is damaged in any way, Vortex covers it with its VIP lifetime warranty.

The company will either repair or replace your Crossfire II, no matter what the problem is or how long you’ve had it.

To top it all off, this heavy-duty scope weighs just 14.3oz. — a comfortable addition to most rifles.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets on the Crossfire II are medium height and finger adjustable.

The knobs have a sturdy feel to them and can be easily manipulated, even with a gloved hand. Both turrets are capped to protect your settings and can be reset back to zero after sighting in.

Windage and elevation can both be adjusted to 60 MOA with each click measuring ¼ MOA.

Magnification & Parallax

With a magnification of 2-7x, this is a scope meant for close to medium-range shooting.

The parallax adjustment is fixed up to 100yds which is a good fit for this level of magnification.

Vortex Optics Crossfire II 2-7×32 Review: Is It Worth It?

With a price tag of only $129, you are getting a great scope with quality features that many people pay twice as much for.

Not only that, but when you take into account the lifetime warranty, it’s almost a no brainer.

In short:

If you’re looking for a solid tactical scope that excels in hunting, then I’d recommend the Crossfire II.

3. Bushnell Drop Zone-22 2-7×32: Best Short-range Varmint Hunting

Want to do short-range varmint hunting?

Or rimfire tactical matches?

Then take a look at the Bushnell Drop Zone-22 2-7×32. It’s literally designed for the .22 LR round.

The best part?

It’s super affordable. Let’s take a closer look…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is surprisingly good.

In fact, I didn’t notice any tunnel vision from the bezel like I do with other similarly-priced optics.

But what’s even better is the Drop Zone-22 BDC reticle.

It’s specifically engineered for 38-40 grain, .22 LR high-velocity loads, with a 50-yard zero.

What that means is it specifically measures the .22 LR’s trajectory, giving you completely accurate bullet drop estimates.

This is perfect if you do short-range varmint hunting or rimfire tactical matches.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The 3.6” of eye relief is very forgiving — even at full magnification.

Also, the eye box is generous. I didn’t experience any eye fatigue.

Durability & Weight

The Drop Zone-22 is built like a tank.

It’s O-ring sealed, argon purged and crafted from durable aluminum. Which means, the scope is waterproof, fogproof and shockproof.

However, it comes at a hefty cost:

Heavy weight.

At about 19.5 ounces in weight, the Drop-Zone 22 is one of the heaviest scope in its class.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The exposed target turrets are reliable.

They produce positive, crisp clicks. No tools are required. And the ¼ MOA is very precise.

However, the dials are a bit stiff to turn…at first. With usage, it’ll loosen up.

Moving on, zeroing was easy. After 7 rounds, I was zeroed in. It also held zero like a champ. 82 rounds and a few hikes later, I still haven’t lost zero.

Magnification & Parallax

Just like the turrets, the power ring is also rather stiff.

The solution?

Use a throw-over lever. This makes turning the knob a breeze.

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The scope is also equipped with an adjustable side parallax knob. This is gold…considering the price of the optic.

It can adjust as low as 10 yards to infinity. A plus if you’re plinking, engaging close targets or rimfire shooting.

In short:

The 2-7x magnification and parallax adjustment is clean and precise.

Bushnell Optics Drop Zone-22 Review: Is It Worth It?

If you’re looking for a budget-friendly 22LR scope, then get a Bushnell Drop Zone-22.

Here’s why. It’s got:

• Durable
• Clear glass
• Long eye relief
• 22LR BDC reticle
• Side parallax adjustment

It’s literally designed for small game hunting, plinking and rimfire shooting.

The best part?

It’s backed by Bushnell’s lifetime warranty. So if ANYTHING happens to the scope, they’ll fix er’ up for free.

4. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Short-to-Long Range 22LR Scope

The Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 is the best short-to-long range scope for your 22lr rifle.

In fact:

The Argos BTR packs in many of the features of top-dollar scopes, but for a fraction of the cost. Like what? Keep reading to find out…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass on the Argos BTR is very high quality, which means the image you see through your scope is clear and crisp. In fact, the Argos BTR excels in low-light conditions.

I’ve found that it’s the perfect scope for dusk and dawn hunts. This is because the BTR is made with a fully multi-coated lens which provides fantastic light transmission.

I’ve noticed that when I zoom in to 18-24x, I get a little bit of blurriness. That said, for under $400, you really can’t beat the image clarity of the BTR.

Now let’s take a look at the reticle.

I was expecting a pretty basic reticle from this scope, especially considering the price. However, the BTR uses an illuminated, etched APMR MIL reticle. It’s anything but basic!

Here’s a look at the APMR MIL reticle:

I really like the illuminated reticle, especially when I’m shooting in low-light conditions. There are 11 brightness settings which means that I can find the perfect illumination level every time.

I do wish that the BTR had an auto-shutoff feature to help save on battery life, but I tend to keep an extra Lithium battery in my bag just in case.

Also, since the reticle is etched into the glass, you don’t need to turn on the illumination at all if you don’t want to. The etched reticle is also much more durable than a wired crosshair, so you don’t have to worry about your wires getting knocked off center.

One of the best things about the Argos BTR is that it is a first focal plane riflescope, which means that the reticle grows as you zoom in on your target. No more calculations for holdover or windage when you change your magnification.

I love that the MIL reticle works at all ranges, and this feature usually only comes in scopes that cost over $1000.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on the BTR is a nice, comfy 3.3 inches. This is perfect for low-to-zero recoil calibers like 22lr.

The eye box is also nice and generous, although I’ve noticed it does shrink a little as you zoom in to max.

Durability

The Argos BTR is incredibly durable. The tube is made from heat-treated, aircraft grade aluminum and is sealed with O-rings.

As if that’s not enough, the whole tube is made from a single piece of metal, which makes it stronger and more waterproof than multi-piece scope tubes. The BTR is also argon-purged and uses an etched reticle.

All of these features mean that the scope is able to handle any kind of conditions and take any kind of punishment that I might throw at it.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

Here’s the scope’s biggest con…

The turrets move very easily, with almost no resistance…which can lead to over adjusting.

However, I spent about ten minutes re-greasing the turret caps. When I was done, the turrets felt much less mushy and the clicks were a lot louder.

If you’ve never regreased turrets before, here’s a quick video showing you how to do it:

Zeroing was a very easy process. I was able to zero the scope in less than ten rounds once I was hitting paper.

And I’ve put hundreds of rounds through my 22lr since, and the zero has held true.

In my experience, these turrets have proved to be very reliable.

Parallax & Magnification

The parallax adjustment knob works very well. It’s easy to turn and accurate. This makes for easy adjustments in the field.

The 6-24x magnification is probably my favorite thing about this scope. Whether I want to shoot something ten yards out or plink a target at 1000 yards, the BTR is my go-to.

The scope image is very clear up until about 20x. After that it gets a little bit blurry, so you may want to invest in a higher-end scope if you want to do a lot of extreme distance shooting.

That said, I’ve found that the Argos BTR still functions well at 1000 yards, especially when you consider the price.

Mounting & Rings

The Argos BTR doesn’t come with any rings or a mount, so I’d suggest getting a set of High Scope Rings that fit your 22lr.

The scope does come with a set of lens covers, which is nice. It also includes a battery for the illuminated reticle.

I went ahead and bought a 50mm Athlon Sunshade to use for my daytime shooting.

It helps a lot with glare and reflections.

Is the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 Worth It?

If you need an all-range scope for your 22lr, you can’t go wrong with the Argos BTR.

Here’s why. It has:

• First focal plane
• 6-24x magnification
• Excellent in low-light
• Reliable, hand-adjustable turrets
• Illuminated, etched BTR MIL reticle
• Fully multi-coated glass for clear, crisp image

And all of this comes in a package that costs a fraction of what other competing scopes cost.

If all of that wasn’t enough, the BTR comes with Athlon’s Gold Medal lifetime warranty, so you know you’re covered if anything happens to your riflescope.

If you want all these features in a low-cost riflescope, then the Argos BTR 6-24×50 is for you.

Looking for a riflescope for your AR? Here’s our list of the 7 Best AR-15 Scopes and Optics.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best 22LR scope for target shooting guide.

So as a recap:

If you’re looking for the best overall .22LR target shooting scope, then get the Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire.

What about the best close-to-medium range optic? The Crossfire II 2-7×32 is for you.

If you’re into short-range varmint hunting, then opt-in for the Bushnell Drop Zone-22.

Or if you’re looking for the best short-to-long range scope, then get the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50.

Whichever .22LR scope you choose, you’re bound to hit a reliable, yet effective optic. I’ve spent hundreds of rounds through each one with no failure.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which rifle scope will you pick for your .22LR?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

The muzzleloader hunting season is when many new muzzleloading rifle hunters begin harvesting prey using trusty, old-method firearms. With more game options and fewer hunters in the field, this early phase has the most excellent weather; it offers a chance to fill your entire season’s limit. But what powder is the only kind that you should use in a muzzleloader?

Black powder is the only variety of powder that you should load in a muzzleloader. Although synthetic alternatives exist, you should only use approved substitutes and never the new smokeless types. This propellant is easily ignitable, with a widespread reputation in the muzzleloading community.

Keep reading as I dissect the ins and outs of powder for muzzleloaders. We’ll talk about how to use and why only specific varieties are suitable for your firearm.

What’s a Muzzleloader Firearm?

With a muzzleloader hunting license, you’re entitled to one deer, rabbits, squirrels, quail, and migratory birds. Unlike modern firearms, you must load this rifle from the muzzle, which goes for each shot. There are no mechanical levers or bolts for load or reload, and designs include the inline and break action.

Your inline muzzleloader features a threaded breech plug at the end of a long tube on the shooter’s end. A nipple on this plug holds the primer, after which a hammer striker combination is the igniter or detonator of your powder charge. As the powder burns, gas pressure drives the propellant, often a ball, down the barrel and out the muzzle.

Many modern inline muzzleloaders use a 209 shotgun primer that doesn’t require a unique tool for capping or de-capping. Percussion caps are also used to make the powder explode. However, their breach plugs are different so that you can use 209 primers and Number Eleven caps interchangeably.

Break action muzzleloaders use a lever to pivot the barrel away from the stock, exposing the primer bay or recess. There are also falling block, trap door, plunger, and bolt action muzzleloader models.

What Is Black Powder, and Which Type Should Be Used in a Muzzleloader?

Are you starting as a muzzleloader shooter, or maybe the staggering options on offer for propellants are overwhelming? Contrary to years ago, this sector has come a long way in powder choices. It remains your choice of which brand is the best fit for your firearm.

Black powder is made from sulfur, charcoal, and potassium nitrate, also called saltpeter. This granular substance can be black, grey, or brown and ignites in a dense cloud of white smoke.

As the only powder that you should use in a muzzleloader firearm, black powder is available in four distinct granulations;

• Fg is the coarsest grained black powder used mainly in cannons, ten or larger gauge shotguns, and rifled of .75 caliber or more.
• FFg is medium-grained and typically used in shotguns of 20 to 12 gauge, muzzleloaders of .50 to .75 caliber, and pistols in .50 caliber and above.
• FFFg is a fine-grained black powder that’s best used in pistols under .50 caliber, smaller shotguns, and rifles.
• FFFFg is an extra fine-grained black powder used as a primer in flint-locking rifle flash pans.

The coarser the granulation of powder, the larger the caliber or gauge of your firearm. Unfortunately, the original substance is mainly inefficient and corrosive, not to mention messy. Actual black powder produces so much smoke because only about 50% of the loaded sample burns. Much of this is blown out of the muzzle as smoke, while other residues remain within your barrel.

Alternatives to Pure Black Powder for Use in a Muzzleloader

One of the ingredients of black powder for muzzleloader priming and firing is sulfur. That’s the reason a foul smell is emitted once you’ve fired your fire-stick, often confused with rotten eggs. The composition is also hygroscopic, meaning that it’ll absorb moisture that affects its ability to ignite when exposed.

This charge is a sensitively combustive compound that can be highly hazardous when mishandled. As such, black powder is classified by the federal government as an explosive. There are strict regulations concerning the manufacture, transportation, and storage of this propellant, leading to its unavailability commercially.

Black powder for muzzleloaders also comes in two presentations, including loose and pelletized powder. In the US, Swiss Black Power and Goex are the two most famous black powder brands among muzzleloader hunters. While Goex is more readily available, Swiss Black Power is regarded as the finer-grained and better propellant.

Loose Black Powder:

This is an accurate and precise propellant that will offer incredible pellet groups 200 yards. Blackhorn 209 is the most accurate loose powder substitute in the market. It is best when you’re looking to have an advantage at the range or against prey in the woods.

Pelletized Black Powder:

The pelletized black powder comes in pre-measured pellets that offer simplicity and ease of use with muzzleloaders. Sizes range from 30, 50, and 60 grains. All you need to do is to drop them into your firearm without measuring volume or mass. It’s, however, challenging to accomplish the fine-tuning of your grain usage with these black powder substitutes.

What’s the Safest Black Powder Substitute for Use in a Muzzleloader?

Issues with its storage, presentation, and how black powder ignites have driven many muzzleloaders to opt for substitute powders instead. Typically classified as smokeless propellants, alternatives aren’t subject to the same stringent regulations that surround true black powder. As such, they’re readily available commercially, leave less residual pollution and offer a powerfully efficient burn.

While more difficult to ignite than the original, some substitutes are available in pellet form, making loading easier. If you use 209 primers, you’ll have fewer ignition hangfires, familiar with Number 11 percussion caps and muskets. Another thing to keep in mind is that every substitute is denser than black powder, varying on the brand, and you should use volume and not mass load measures.

Pyrodex

Pyrodex is a popular black powder substitute that was the first developed for muzzleloader shooters. Although supposedly an alternative, this substitute is messy, smoky, and corrosive, just like the original black powder.

However, Pyrodex is easier to find on gun store shelves, unlike its predecessor, and it stimulates projectile performance up a notch. While more difficult to ignite than black powder, this alternate propellant is the easiest at combustion than other substitute powders.

If yours is a musket, an inline or side lock muzzleloader, or when you’re using a No. 11 caps, Pyrodex is an excellent substitute option. It’s available commercially in three granulation levels equivalent to similar black powder ratings. These include;

• Pyrodex P:

This is equivalent to black powder of FFFg granulation and works best with pistols of less than .45 caliber and muzzleloader rifles.

• Pyrodex RS:

Close to FFg black powder in size, Pyrodex RS works best with muzzleloading rifles and shotguns of 12-gauge or above.

• Pyrodex Select:

This is the newer Pyrodex variant that’s more consistent in performance with shotguns of .45 caliber and above as well as muzzleloaders. While similar in granulation to Pyrodex RS, it’s more accurate and cleaner burning than Pyrodex P.

You can also find Pyrodex substitute powder in 50-grain pellets that assist in faster muzzleloader firearm loading.

Hodgon’s Triple Se7en

Known as triple 7 or 777, this is another popular black powder substitute that’s in use for muzzleloader hunting applications. Triple se7en is a relatively new propellant and is more powerful and consistent while burning much cleaner. Being slightly less corrosive than Pyrodex or true black powder, it’s slowly edging out other alternatives, including Pyrodex as the best propellant in use with muzzleloading firearms.

Hodgon’s 777 is available in loose powder presentations of both FFg and FFFg granulation. There are also 30, 50, and 60-grain pellets, and the company recently started offering 33-grain FireStar pellets. These propellants are star-shaped instead of the typical cylindrical pellet shape, and the manufacturer claims they offer higher velocities without much fouling.

Out of all the loads I tested, the 777 FireStar matched up well against other black powder substitutes. Apart from overall performance, the alternate propellant also produced consistent velocities compared to other muzzleloader loads that I put to the test.

Triple Se7ev is widely available commercially, and you’ll find them in any self-respecting sporting goods store. While there are no ignition issues if you’re using 209 primers, 777 is more difficult to ignite than Pyrodex and true black powder. For my CVA Optima Northwest and Wolf inline muzzleloaders, Hodgon’s is my preferred substitute powder, but I don’t recommend you use it inside lock muskets.

Accurate Blackhorn 209

The newest kid on the block for black powder substitutes is Blackhorn 209, featuring the highest velocities of all available alternatives. This powder has excellent performance consistency, which helps with its trajectory accuracy. As one of the cleanest burning muzzleloader propellants, it’s also non-corrosive, and it’s unnecessary to use bore swabs between shots.

Accurate Blackhorn 209, while not as readily available as Triple Se7en or Pyrodex, is still pretty easy to obtain that true black powder. As defined in its name, this substitute powder is designed for 209 primers like CCI 209M and Federal 209A.

This black powder substitute works best with breech plus and specific primers. I wouldn’t recommend using it with No.11 percussion caps or pistol and musket muzzleloader primers to avoid ignition problems. Instead, use an inline muzzleloader as a hunting choice for great results, but you can’t exceed a 120-grain charge.

What’s Best for Muzzleloader Loading, Pelletized, or Loose Black Powder?

Whether you are using loose or pelletized powder, you’ll prefer a load charge of around 100 grains. You can also use heavier projectiles that’ll max out your muzzleloader rifles on longer shots, such as 120 grains of Blackhorn 209. 150-grains of pelletized or loose powder will also work well, but maximum loading charge can cause you to lose placement and shot consistency.

I’ve seen hunters and shooters hit a bull’s-eye and then their following few projectiles pattern between 12 and 18 inches off the mark. The question for me for using both pelletized and loose powder is one of shot distance, ease of use, and cost. When I am shooting less than 150 yards, I employ pellets, but above that, I find loose powder a bit more accurate.

Avoid using a muzzleloader that’s not designed to shoot smokeless powder, as it can cause a barrel explosion. Smokeless varieties are those used in rifle cartridges and shotgun shells.

With new inline muzzleloaders, ignition uses the ubiquitous 209 shotshell primers, and for that reason, it’s not a problem to light off. Using an older No. 11 percussion cap, as is prevalent in unaltered original Knight Rifles, it’s better to use Pyrodex pellets. That’s because these feature a true black powder ring that’s easily ignited, thus offering the advantages of both original and substitute powders in one.

Conclusion

You can find true black powder in granular form, while its substitutes offer pellets that make it easy to load your muzzleloader. While these are the only powders that you should use with your firearm, you must measure loose powder before pouring it down your barrel.

Powder measures ensure that you have a consistent load every time. As such, you shouldn’t use a powder horn or manufacturer shorn to load your charge. Store muzzleloader powders of any type in cool, dry safes or lockboxes.

Whether you are a hunter or just curious about what animal is in the woods near you, being able to identify them by their eyeshine is a pretty cool skill to have. I did a lot of research but had trouble finding a good resource. So, I decided to compile everything I learned and share it here with you. This is what I found out.

In identifying animal eyes at night, you should consider four primary factors – the color, the shape of the eyes, pupil slit orientation, and eyelid shape. Predatory animals have glowing eyes with vertically elongated pupils, while harmless animals have horizontally elongated pupils.

In total, there are five primary eye shine colors that are visible in animals: blue, green, white, yellow, and red.

Here is an eye shine chart of 38 animals:

By the way, this fascinating book on Amazon covers how animal eye color affects behavior.

This article will examine why some animals have eyes that glow in the dark and how this feature helps them survive. We’ll also share a helpful eyeshine chart that you can use to identify animal eyes in the dead of night.

Why Do Animal Eyes Shine at Night?

Before we look at what colors go with actual animals, let’s talk a bit about the science.

Many animals have a thin reflective membrane at the back of their eyes, known as tapetum lucidum. This reflective membrane layer lies behind the iris and acts as a retroreflector, which means it reflects light back at the source – in this case, back at your flashlight.

It reflects visible light passing through the retina back to increase the amount of light on the photoreceptors. The presence of a tapetum lucidum gives nocturnal carnivores superb night vision.

Animals reflect the light directly toward the light source to give the retina a succinct image to analyze. Cats have incredible night vision because the reflective effects boost their night vision.

By matching the original and reflected light, the reflective layer maintains the image’s contrast and sharpness. The reflective layer uses constructive interference to increase the amount of light passing through the animal’s retina.

This phenomenon is also known as eyeshine because the glowing eyes are simply reflections of the light source trained at the animal. Shining light directly on the face of an animal with a tapetum lucidum causes the eyes to glow.

Eyeshine comes in various colors, including white, yellow, red, blue, pink, or green. Since the reflective layer is iridescent, the pupils’ color is affected by the angle of vision, eye color, and the mineral makeup of the tapetum lucidum.

Related Which Animals’ Eyes Reflect at Night? | A Biological Insight.

Night Vision and Eyeshine

A tapetum lucidum improves an animal’s ability to see in the dark and low-light conditions. The reflective eye membrane is typical in mammals, reptiles, invertebrates, and amphibians.

The eyeshine color depends on the animal and can be red, orange, yellow, pink, blue, or green. The sheen depends on eye color, the shape of the eyes, and the light’s angle shining on the animal.

The intensity of the eye glow varies between species, with some animals glowing brighter than the rest. The animals with the brightest eyeshine have excellent night vision because their eyes have fewer cones. Unfortunately, perfect night vision comes with limited color vision or complete color blindness.

Eyeshine in Predators

Most of the nocturnal predators have a tapetum lucidum to help them see in the dark. Dogs, house cats, big cats, alligators, and ferrets are some of the predators with eyes that reflect in the darkness.

Improved night vision is essential to these predators because it allows them to track prey in pitch darkness.

Cool Fact: Some predatory fish, like walleye, need excellent night vision to hunt in the dark, deep waters. As a result, they have reflective eyes.

Interestingly, while owls have eyes that glow in the dark, they lack a tapetum lucidum in their eyes.

Glowing Eyes in Predators

Unsurprisingly, some of the prey targeted by the predators with improved night vision developed a tapetum lucidum layer. The layer evolved as a defense mechanism to help these herbivores detect predators in low-light conditions.

Some non-predators with excellent night vision include cattle, deer, pigs, camels, kangaroos, and horses.

Identifying Animals by Eye Glow at Night

While it’s possible to identify some animals by their eyeshine, the eye glow color is more of a guideline than accurate science.

Several factors influence the color of an animal’s eyeshine, including:

• The color of the light source – flashlight, camera, LED, or moonlight
• The color of the animal’s eyes
• The size of the animal’s retina
• The distance between you and the animal
• Your position and light source angle

Here are charts grouping animals by their eyeshine color:

Eyeshine Charts

It’s important to note that accurately identifying an animal at night might require more information than just its eye color. If you can, try to use the animal’s general size, behavior when looking at you, habitat, eye size, and more.

Related What Does Moon Overhead and Underfoot Mean?

Animals With Red Glowing Eyes at Night

Some animals with characteristic red eyes at night include:

• Alligators and crocodiles- The large eyeballs of alligators and crocodiles glow fiery red in the dark, making them easy to identify. If you’re near a river, lake, or swamp in an area that these creatures live in, take extra caution if you see red eyes in the dark.
• Owls- Owls are nocturnal birds with big eyes that glow red or orange after dark.
• Red fox- Foxes have red glowing eyes with perpendicular pupils.
• Rabbits- A rabbit’s eyes will exhibit a light red tone when you shine a light on them.

Animals With Yellow Eye Glow at Night

Some animals have glowing yellow eyes at night, including:

• Bears- A bear has dark brown eyes that take on a bright yellowish glow when you shine a light on them in the dark.
• Cats- Some cats have eyes that give off a yellow glow in the dark, but this can vary depending on the cat in question.
• Deer- A deer’s eyes glow yellow in the dark. As deer often live in the same habitats as bears, you should also look at the height and size of the eyes to determine which animal you’re looking at.
• Raccoons- Raccoons have big eyes that glow bright yellow in the dark.
• Chinchilla- Commonly kept as exotic pets, chinchillas also have big eyes that glow yellow in the dark.
• Panthers- This big cat has smallish eyes that glow yellow in the dark. You might not see the yellow glow if you shine the light directly on their face.

Animals With Glowing Green Eyes at Night

Some animals with eyes that glow green in the dark include:

• Dogs- Some dogs can have an eerie green nighttime glow that can be unsettling in the dark. A dog’s eyeshine can take on different colors, including blue, orange, green, and red.
• Foxes- Some foxes have an intense green glow in their eyes as they forage for food after dark, though a few types of foxes have white or yellow eyes instead.
• Opossum- Opossums have big eyes that light up green in the dark. You’re likely to find them perched up high on a tree at night.

Animals With White Eye Glow at Night

Some of the animals with eyes that glow white in the dark include:

• Coyotes- Coyotes have big eyes that glow bright white in the dark. While they’re predators that typically hunt in packs, you don’t need to panic if you see a pack of white eyes staring at you, as coyote attacks on humans are extremely rare.
• Deer- A deer’s eyes will reflect the white light of a camera equipped with a flash to assume a bright white glow in the dark.
• Tigers- Tigers would be difficult to spot in the dark were it not for their large eyes that glow white in the dark.

Why Human Eyes Don’t Shine

Human eyes do not have a reflective layer called the tapetum lucidum. In fact, all haplorhine primates are diurnal and do not have the tapetum lucidum.

To read more about this topic, go here.

Conclusion

Shining a flashlight into the darkness only to see a pair of glowing eyes staring back at you can be a bit frightening. And unless you know whether those eyes belong to a dangerous predator or a harmless herbivore, you won’t know whether to ignore them or be on your guard. Fortunately, you can identify an animal by its eyes at night if you have the correct information.

Some animals have eyes that glow in the dark because they have a special reflective membrane behind their retinas. The membrane is a unique adaptation to help their ability to see at night.

Most common eyeshine colors include white, green, red, yellow, and orange. The eye glow color depends on the specific animal, eye color, and light source, among other factors.

You’d need more information about an animal in addition to its eyeshine, such as habitat, size, behavior, eye size, and more, to identify it accurately.

Still, the included eyeshine chart should help. And don’t forget to check out this book on Amazon, it’s extremely helpful.

I hope this article has provided the info you needed. Thanks for reading!

For more, check out What Can Deer Smell? (How To Avoid Detection).

Many people love meat because it’s a good source of protein. Do you need ideas on the tastiest meat dish for your lunch or special event? You’ll never go wrong with well-cooked deer brisket, as it has a spicy flavor when you serve it hot.

The brisket on a deer lies at the bottom of a deer’s chest, in front of the ribcage. Removing a deer’s brisket involves removing the shoulders, backstrap, and tenderloins and cutting through the cartilage.

The rest of this article will:

• Delve deeper to explain where to find deer brisket.
• Discuss whether you must sear a deer’s brisket.
• How to remove brisket off a deer.
• Where to find the best meat on a deer.
• You’ll also learn the differences between venison backstrap and the tenderloin and what part of a deer is best for steaks.

Can You Get Brisket off a Deer?

Though tough, brisket is one of the most delicious meats in mammals, including deer. While butchering a deer to get the brisket may seem like a painstaking process, it’s achievable with the right tools and skills.

You can get brisket off a deer even though it’s smaller and leaner than a cow’s brisket. Using a sharp knife, you should remove it by cutting off the meat between the forelimbs on the deer’s chest through the cartilage. Also, cut out all fat up to the backbone.

Since a deer’s brisket is smaller than other big animals, removing it is a challenge to most people. However, when you follow the right butchering procedure, you can get the brisket off the carcass.

You can make the best fajitas, burgers, or sausages with this piece of meat or trim and grill it under higher heat.

Related Best Knife for Processing Deer | Hint: You Need Two.

Should Brisket Be Seared?

Brisket should be seared because it is essential to build up the meat’s flavor. However, you need to prepare it adequately before searing it and let it slow-cook in the oven or pan. Slow cooking makes the meat tender and easier for you to slice it afterward.

Searing venison brisket is a common preparation method in most traditional dishes as it adds flavor to the meat. Searing involves cooking the meat’s surface under high temperatures until it caramelizes, otherwise known as forming a brown crust.

Adding some oil creates contact between the brisket and the cooking surface.

• Before you sear the brisket, trim away the fat pad on the brisket’s outer surface. A large sharp knife will come in handy during this preparation step.
• Then, marinate it using salt, pepper, or other spices a day before you cook it.

Moreover, it’s important to remember that deer meat is generally tough, and storing it for a couple of days enables the aging process, which will make the meat tender, including the brisket. Do this before starting your cooking process, and you’ll have tender briskets.

After aging, trimming off fat, and marinating the deer’s brisket, you can now sear it.

If you notice that there are still some grey spots on the meat after searing, it means one side of the brisket didn’t cook well. To avoid these spots, you should ensure that you flip both sides to burn evenly.

How To Remove Deer Brisket

You might be thinking about getting a professional butcher to remove the brisket from your deer, right? However, there’s an easier way to do this in the comfort of your home.

Removing a deer’s brisket is one of the final meat-cutting steps of butchering.

After you’re through with the major butchering procedure, you can remove the brisket in a slab using the flat of your knife. Cut the meat carefully against the lower-chest region, trimming off the cod fat and tallow.

To get to the deer’s brisket, you have to butcher cut major parts. Here are the steps:

1. Cut and pull the shoulders from the torso of the deer to expose the cut zone which your knife will pass through.
2. Pull the front leg away from the torso, and with your knife’s blade parallel to the ribcage, cut the hinge area.
3. Remove the backstraps and the tenderloin, but trim away the excess fat layer first. To do this, find the hip bone and cut under this bone to the backbone on both sides. Loosen and get the meat off by ensuring that your knife is close to the bone.
4. Cut through the ribs down to the backbone. You’ll find the brisket on the outer surface of the ribs. Cut it off while your knife’s blade is against the lower-front chest region and remove any cod fat.

Check out this YouTube video that shows the process of removing a brisket:

Where Is the Best Meat on a Deer?

After butchering a deer, you’ll want to get the most out of the process. Many people go for the bigger and popular venison chunks. But where’s the best meat on a deer?

The backstraps and tenderloins are the best meat cuts of a deer. These parts are tender and will give you a succulent and delicious meal. Other preferred parts include the hindquarters, rump, and chucks.

Backstraps and tenderloins are a favorite to most venison lovers as they are tender and easy to cook. The hindquarters have a variety of uses, as you can use them as steak, in stews, kebabs, or jerky.

There are many other recipes for preparing this dish that you can try out on your own.

Is Venison Backstrap the Same As Tenderloin?

Differentiating between the venison backstrap and tenderloin can be a bit confusing.

A backstrap isn’t the same as a tenderloin. The venison backstrap is the meat along a deer’s spine on the outer part of the backbone. However, tenderloin sits beneath the spine, inside the abdominal cavity along the backbone.

Tenderloin is about 10” to 12” (25.4 to 30.48 cm) smaller than the backstrap but very delicious.

What Part of a Deer Is Best for Steaks?

Are you a steak lover? Well, you can make the best steaks from some parts of venison.

The hindquarters of the deer is best for steaks. The top and bottom rounds have extensive muscles but also have tender sections. They produce the best steaks and cuts for other dishes. Venison hindquarters are large, with cuts for various uses.

You can get the best steak from these parts in young or older deer. However, the bottom rounds are more tender than the top ones.

Final Words

You can get brisket off a deer by following the correct butchering process all by yourself. It may not be a very easy cut to make, but it’s doable. Once you have the brisket, you can leave it for a few days to age and then prepare it for cooking by marinating first.

Searing the brisket is also a great idea as it helps to lock in the flavors.

For more, check out The 5 Best Ways to Preserve Meat in the Wild.