Going hunting? Need to touch up your gear? Look no further – creating your own camo pattern is easy! With the following tips, you can get that perfect, natural camo look in 15 minutes or less. Follow this easy, step-by-step guide to get the look.

What You Need

• Gear to spray paint
• Camo spray paint in black, brown, olive and khaki
• Drop cloth to protect from overspray
• Gloves (optional)
• Stencil (optional)
• Branches and leaves (ideally from the area you will be hunting in)

STEP 1: Prep your work area

Set up a spray area by covering your work space with a drop cloth. Make sure it is a well-ventilated area – outside is ideal. Using an all-purpose cleaner, thoroughly clean the inside and outside of your surfaces to remove dirt, oil and debris.

STEP 2: Paint your base

Depending on the surface, you may want to do a base colour on your project before layering with the camo pattern. It is always best to start with a base coat when you are working with a brightly coloured object.. One recommended product to accomplish this is Krylon Camouflage Spray Paint. For the base, layer the camo spray paint in black and brown using short, fast bursts. Keep layering colour until most or all of the original colour is gone.

Spray Tip: Make sure you read and follow the instructions on the can for proper spray distances, dry times and recoat timeframes. Products like Krylon Camouflage paint should be shaken for at least one minute after the ball has been released inside the can to ensure proper colour distribution. It is always recommended to test-spray on a scrap piece of paper or on your drop cloth before spraying your project. While painting, hold the can six to eight inches away from the surface and make sure to spray in smooth, even strokes to prevent drips or large areas of concentrated colour.

STEP 3: Create your camo

Layer leaves and branches over your project. Using the lighter colours (olive and khaki), spray in long, sweeping motions across the organic material. Remove the leaves and branches to reveal the pattern below. Repeat this process all around until you are satisfied with the pattern.

Spray Tip: Layer, Layer, LAYER! The more you layer the pattern, the more realistic it will look.

STEP 4

Let it dry. Spray paint typically dries in 15 minutes or less and can be handled in about one hour.

Quick Tips

• Choose the right pattern – pick branches and leaves from the area you will be hunting in to create a custom camo look to that area.
• Choose the right colours – layer colours so the hues that are most prominent in the area you will be hunting in are most featured. Always use an ultra-flat finish to ensure there is no light reflection.
• Pick a stencil – if you’re looking for a more traditional camo stencil, follow the instructions above, but instead of using natural stencils with leaves and branches, download them online. Krylon’s camo stencils can be found at krylon.com
• Light coats – for best results, use light, even coats instead of thick, heavy coats of paints. This will prevent drips and will also speed up dry time.

One of the most popular targets for hunters is the duck. Various species of this waterfowl are widespread in most countries, so everyone has the opportunity to shoot a large number of individuals. There is a wide variety of types of duck hunting. In some of them, hunters will need night optics. It will allow you to do what you love after sunset and in the pre-dawn hours, when natural light is not enough for high-quality aiming and making accurate shots.

Features of duck hunting with NVDs

Duck hunting is an exciting activity that gives each participant unforgettable emotions and allows them to show their hunting abilities. The secret to the success of such an event lies in the details. The hunter must use carefully prepared weapons and the highest quality auxiliary devices to achieve his goals. The latter always includes NVDs. They can provide good visibility in the early morning and late evening and at other times of the day when there is a lack of natural light (for example, in adverse weather conditions). With their help, duck hunting will become more accessible, exciting, and safer.

For this type of hunting, you need an adequately selected weapon. It must comply with legal regulations and all hunter requirements. The same rule applies to ammunition used for shooting ducks. The third important aspect to pay special attention to is the selection of NVDs. Some scopes, binocular or monocular, are suitable for a duck hunter. To qualify as such, the chosen device must meet several criteria that make it possible to shoot waterfowl. The main one is the equipment’s ability to provide the user with an image that quickly changes in real-time. The selected night optics must process the image as soon as possible and display it on the screen with a minimum delay. Compliance with this criterion will make it possible to see the goal, regardless of the actions it performs. This will simplify the task even in cases where the hunter’s only chance of success is to kill the duck on takeoff or while lowering into the water. Not all NVDs have the ability to process images quickly. Only the best and most reliable manufacturers can create models with these options and provide them to hunting enthusiasts at an affordable price.

Hunting ducks with night vision equipment is always fun. For this activity to not only give positive emotions but also allow you to get good trophies, you need to consider the behavior of birds at each moment in time. NVDs are often used in the early morning, when the sun has not yet risen, and late evening. At this time, they compensate for the lack of natural light and enable the hunter to see well. Before sunrise, ducks become more active. They are full of strength and energy after rest, so all their actions are fast and sharp. This creates specific difficulties for the hunter since shooting an actively moving bird is much more complex than a stationary target. If you use NVDs, the task will be a little more straightforward. The hunter will be able to see ducks’ behavior and predict their actions. At the same time, most waterfowl are more predictable in the morning than in the evening. They perform the same daily activities and rarely change their usual feeding places. It is this feature that is important for a hunter to take into account when choosing the optimal point for shooting. After sunset, ducks become less active. They move pretty slowly and, in some cases, remain entirely motionless. The latter occurs in cases where there is very little daylight and the birds are preparing for rest. At this time, shooting a duck is relatively easy. However, the hunter needs high-quality night optics from a reliable and time-tested manufacturer for this. Only she can cope well with the assigned tasks and will not let the user down at the most crucial moment.

Using various NVDs during duck hunting opens up new opportunities for the hunter. With their help, he can see all the birds in the pond and accurately determine their species. In addition, night optics will also come in handy when searching for a suitable place to set up a shelter. It will allow you to clearly see the surrounding area and safely move even along the most challenging paths near the reservoir. If hunting is carried out from a boat, then night optics will be helpful. It will help you safely swim to a predetermined place and quickly inspect the territory, finding each feathered target.

When hunting ducks, it is essential to remember that these waterfowl are never alone. They live in large flocks, which can number several hundred individuals. In this regard, if you find at least one duck, the rest of the community will be somewhere nearby. Ducks choose relatively small bodies of water as their home sites, with plenty of food for them. They feed mainly on plants but can also enjoy various small aquatic inhabitants. Considering the above, the hunter needs to look for ducks in places that meet all these criteria. If searches are carried out in the dark or poor daylight, then various types of NVDs will help increase the efficiency of such work. They will significantly improve visibility and help you spot potential prey faster.

Benefits of duck hunting with NVDs

Early morning and late evening are excellent times not only for nature walks but also for duck hunting. In this case, hunters will definitely need night optics that can compensate for the lack of natural light during the event. Its capabilities will provide users with many advantages, increasing the chances of completing the hunt.

Advantages of hunting in the wee hours:

1. Early activity of birds. During the first hours allotted by law for the legal shooting of ducks, these waterfowl are very active. Thanks to this, the hunter has many potential targets from which he can choose the most accessible one. In case of poor visibility, various NVDs will come to the rescue. They will help you correctly assess the situation and find optimal goals.
2. Long-term activity of birds. Ducks are active before sunrise and throughout the next few hours. This time will be enough for the hunter to enjoy hunting and get several good trophies. It can be pretty dark on cloudy days, in the predawn hours, and during sunrise, so seeing a potential target is not always possible. Modern night optics from a trusted manufacturer will help solve this problem, providing the hunter with a high-quality and clear picture of the area.
3. Birds’ employment. Before dawn and just after sunrise, ducks are busy searching for food. In this regard, they pay little attention to the events around them, allowing the hunter to get as close as possible. In this case, the only problem for successful shooting may be the lack of natural light. Various modern NVDs designed for hunters can compensate for this.

Benefits of hunting after sunset:

1. Reduced bird activity. After sunset, most waterfowl begin preparing for the night. They become less active during this period, and their movements slow down. This simplifies the hunter’s task since shooting a duck during the day is much easier. Just after sunset, there will be enough light to track prey. However, suppose the bird activity is slightly prolonged (for example, due to favorable weather). In that case, the optimal time for hunting will be late evening, when there may not be enough natural light to make accurate shots. In this situation, the only correct solution would be to use various night optics, the characteristics of which meet the requirements of duck hunting.
2. A large concentration of birds. In the evening, ducks gradually gather in their roosting areas. On large bodies of water, the concentration of birds at this time of day can be pretty high, which is why the probability of a miss becomes minimal. The longer you can wait to shoot, the larger the concentration of ducks you can see. Therefore, to increase the chances of success, most hunters prefer to start hunting as late as possible. In this case, it will only be possible to do with NVDs. They compensate for the lack of vision of a person who cannot see usually in the dark.
3. Decrease in temperature. After sunset, the air temperature inevitably begins to drop. This circumstance creates a certain discomfort for lovers of evening walks but becomes an essential factor in the success of a duck hunter. Due to the decrease in temperature, the birds are forced to stay closer to each other, making them an ideal target. The more time passes since sunset, the lower the temperature becomes. Therefore, hunters try to start shooting as late as possible to be able to shoot at large concentrations of ducks. In this case, natural light will not be enough for regular aiming. However, this will be fine with modern NVDs from a reliable manufacturer.

Types of NVDs used during duck hunting

You can use different types of night optics when hunting in the dark for any waterfowl. All of them will expand the hunter’s capabilities, making available those actions that were previously impossible. By correctly using all the privileges, you can maximize your chances of success and get great pleasure from the hunting process. Each device has its purpose and is used by the hunter to achieve specific goals. Therefore, combining different NVDs to maximize capabilities is the most correct solution.

NVDs used by duck hunters:

1. Monocular. For hunters who prefer to target a variety of waterfowl as their primary target, one of the most valuable NVDs is a monocular. It will help you quickly inspect the pond and the surrounding area, finding ducks and birds there. Modern monoculars from a top manufacturer will provide good visibility even in meager light. All of them are characterized by a minimal delay in image processing, which makes it possible to see events occurring in real-time. Many types of monoculars can be helpful for duck hunters. They are equipped with thermal sensors or an electro-optical converter. Models of the first type capture the heat emanating from birds and allow you to see their outlines. In contrast, the second type amplifies the light due to its transformation in an electron-optical converter, creating a brighter and clearer image. Some combined models combine the capabilities of night optics of both types.
2. Binoculars. This NVD is a must-have for duck and other waterfowl hunters. It is similar to a monocular but allows the user to observe with two eyes. This increases the efficiency of such work and makes it more comfortable for the user. There are many types of binoculars designed for night duck hunting. Each of them has its advantages and disadvantages, so choosing one depends on the hunter’s needs. Modern models of such night optics have excellent performance characteristics, thanks to which they create a high-quality image that helps to detect ducks quickly. In most cases, binoculars from top manufacturers are supplemented with many useful options that will come in handy for a waterfowl hunter (for example, the presence of a built-in rangefinder will make it possible to determine the distance to ducks and make certain adjustments to the aiming process).
3. Sight. The most important NVD for a hunter is the night vision scope. It is a must-have weapon for anyone who intends to hunt ducks and other waterfowl. Thanks to its capabilities, it will be possible to observe potential prey, aim well, and shoot with a minimal probability of making a mistake. Modern models of such optics, produced by well-known manufacturers, can transmit images with a minimum time delay. Thanks to this, the hunter sees everything that happens on the pond in real-time and can kill ducks, even during their takeoff or landing on the water. Like binoculars/monoculars, scopes from the NVDs category have many valuable additions that allow you to maximize a hunter’s capabilities and increase the likelihood of success.
4. Goggles. One of the most valuable NVDs for hunting is goggles. They work on the same principle as monoculars, binoculars, and sights but are more convenient. They do not occupy the hunter’s hands and allow him to perform several actions simultaneously. Such glasses are often used to find the optimal place for shooting. They are also used to detect ducks and determine their approximate distance. For waterfowl hunting, only glasses from a well-known manufacturer are suitable. Such optics will always be as reliable as possible, and everyone will feel comfortable using them. All modern models of night vision goggles have their strengths and weaknesses. Having studied them thoroughly, you can choose the most suitable device for hunting ducks in certain environmental conditions.

Classic night optics and thermal imaging models are equally suitable for duck hunting. The former will be the optimal solution in cases with a slight lack of natural light. Most often, this happens in the pre-dawn hours or after sunset. Thermal imaging NVDs are ideal for nights or terrible weather. They can work effectively even in complete darkness, making duck hunting accessible anywhere and anytime. Another essential feature of such night optics is the ability to see through grass, bushes, and tree branches. Thanks to this, hunters can even detect those ducks that have set up a roosting site in dense thickets. Thermal imaging optics will also be helpful during the day. It will improve visibility in adverse weather conditions that can ruin the hunt. Thus, devices that support thermal imaging technology will benefit from fog, heavy rain, and other natural anomalies.

Safety regulations

Any type of hunting, including those involving different NVDs, requires maximum caution and strict adherence to basic safety rules from each participant. This approach will allow you to enjoy what you love without fear of trouble.

Safety regulations:

1. Any hunting with or without NVDs is always a potentially dangerous activity. The greatest threat comes from the weapons in the hands of each participant in the hunt. To avoid various troubles, operating it strictly with the rules is necessary. It is also recommended to pay attention to the safety measures specified by the weapon manufacturer. When using NVDs, the risk of accidentally shooting another hunter is minimized (due to good visibility of the surrounding area).
2. Very often, ducks and other waterfowl live on the pond. Hunting some of them may be prohibited by law, making it essential to shoot only after accurately identifying the target. If you do not follow this simple rule, you can accidentally shoot a rare bird for killing, and you will have to pay a hefty fine. To reduce the likelihood of such a negative outcome, it is essential to use NVDs. They will help determine the type of bird observed even in deplorable lighting conditions.
3. Most often, small shot is used for duck hunting. It scatters in different directions, which increases the chances of hitting the bird. However, it is always important to remember that such a fraction has a relatively small weight. Because of this, it can ricochet off large stones and other hard surfaces. The hunter needs to shoot from a long distance to prevent such a situation and not injure himself. This is quite difficult to do in poor visibility conditions, so you must use various NVDs. In their absence, shooting only at flying ducks that have reached a certain height will be possible.
4. If hunting is carried out from a boat or other watercraft, then for personal safety, it is essential to consider the weapon’s recoil force when shooting. If you neglect it, then after the first shot, you can end up in the water with your gun and the night vision device you are using. This can scare away the ducks and completely ruin the hunt.
5. If there is insufficient lighting, you must carefully inspect where you will hunt ducks. In this case, it will be possible to detect the presence of other hunters in the given territory and prevent accidentally hitting them during shooting. This security measure is straightforward but effective. It virtually eliminates the risk of injuring or killing a fellow hobbyist. To inspect the area, you need to use NVDs. They will improve visibility and help detect even a well-camouflaged person.
6. When hunting ducks from a pre-arranged shelter, it is essential to ensure that it is inaccessible to various representatives of the fauna. Otherwise, the inhabitants of the reservoir and the adjacent territory may pose a danger to humans. For example, there are many poisonous snakes near many bodies of water whose bite can be fatal. Also, remember insects that carry various diseases and predators that come to drink.
7. From dusk to dawn, the weather can have a severe negative impact on the hunter. In addition to sudden changes in temperature, various precipitation and other natural phenomena (for example, fog, which impairs visibility and increases the likelihood of shooting at another hunter) can be hazardous to health. In this regard, you need to protect your body with adequately selected clothing that will not get wet and prevent hypothermia. In the event of precipitation, various NVDs will help improve hunting safety. They will enhance visibility, thereby reducing the risk of many troubles.
8. When hunting on a pond, it is essential to consider every little detail. In this regard, a hunter’s backpack should contain many valuable items to help him if specific problems arise. These items include medications, navigation aids, spare or rechargeable batteries for NVDs, a knife, a flashlight, and more. Each hunter creates his own set of accessories based on the characteristics of the hunt he is going on.
9. Anything can happen while hunting, so lovers of this activity should always be prepared for various unpleasant surprises. This attitude of the hunter will increase his vigilance and allow him to take a more responsible approach to every action he takes. The result will be increased safety and reduced risk of various problems.
10. It’s best to go duck hunting with friends or relatives. Having other people nearby will not only allow you to have a good time preparing for the hunt but will also increase the safety of everyone involved. So, in case of any troubles, a person will always be nearby who will quickly come to the rescue and help avoid the worst consequences.

Duck hunting is a traditional activity that is popular in different countries of the world. Most often, it is carried out during the daytime, when the most significant movement of birds is observed. However, in addition to this classic hunting method, an alternative one is becoming more popular every year. It involves searching and tracking prey in the pre-dawn hours or after sunset when the available light is insufficient for average visibility. In this case, various night optics come to the aid of hunters. It helps you find even well-hidden birds, aim well, and shoot with minimal misses. Moreover, only the best optics from a top manufacturer can provide such a result. If you make the right choice, you can avoid various difficulties and fully enjoy the hunting process.

Bird hunting and dog training are full of terminology and words that new hunters need to learn.

To walk the walk, bird hunters need to first learn to talk the talk. Deciphering the various terminology of the pointing dog world can be confusing. Dog training verbiage is not universal. It can vary regionally, and the dogs you are running or the program you are following may have their own verbiage, too.

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When I picked up my first Deutsch Kurzhaar (DK) pup, I was greeted with a long list of required breed tests. I found myself swimming in alphabet soup in short order. I remember being told I had to run my DK in a young dog test called the Derby. When I asked how the testing system worked, the answer was a series of acronyms that ended up sounding like the teacher in Peanuts: “Wha, wha, whawa, wha.” With an overwhelming blank stare and a grin, I knew I had work to do.

Similar to learning a foreign language, there is a lot to learn when it comes to the linguistics behind training hunting dogs. Like the English language, there are many variations of saying the same thing. In this article, I will help provide you with some understanding of some of the more universally accepted terminologies we use in the field.

Bird Dog Field Terminology

Here is a glossary of terms often referred to during a hunt in the field.

• Back Casting – Backcasting is when a dog hunts behind the handler. Dogs are primarily expected to remain in front of its handler.
• Backing – Backing is when another dog stops and visually points to another dog’s point without the aid of scent. The backing dog should stop at first sight and remain in place through the steadiness process.
• Biddability – A biddable dog is ready for learning with a balanced temperament and can learn very quickly.
• Blind Retrieve – A blind retrieve is a retrieve made without the dog visually seeing the game or bumper.
• Blinking – Blinking is when a dog overtly refuses to complete a task. Though most commonly associated with blinking birds, dogs can also blink for other tasks such as retrieving or backing another dog.
• Brace – A brace is hunting multiple dogs together in the field at once.
• Breaking – The act of breaking means coming off or leaving, such as breaking point to locate or capture game. As well as breaking from the blind meaning leaving the blind prior to being sent for the retrieve.
• Breaking Cover – The dog’s willingness to leave easy terrain to search heavier thickets or brambles to locate game.
• Bumper / Dummy – A bumper or retrieving dummies are types of retriever training equipment used to teach retrieving. A bumper comes is many shapes, sizes, weights, and colors. They can be thrown from a string or shot from a launcher. They can mimic the shape and size of real game such as the Dokken retriever training equipment.
• Cooperation – Cooperation is the dogs want to comply and work as a team player with its handler.
• Covert/Cover – It’s the likely areas where game can be found.
• Creeping – Creeping also known as cat walking is the act of slowly walking into birds before or after establishing a point. Dogs that creep often do so to get deeper into the scent cone potentially flushing a wary bird.
• Crittering – Crittering is sometimes used to describe a dog that is hunting “off target” game species such as deer, song birds, skunks, or porcupine.
• Delayed Chase – Delayed chase is when a dog is told to leave a bird and move up ahead though instead, the dog chooses to re-engage the chase.
• Desire – A dog with great desire has the passion and drive to get away from its handler to locate game. It’s the internal drive or fire that fuels all aspects of the hunt from the want to point, search, or desire to retrieve.
• False Pointing / Unproductive Pointing – A false point or unproductive point is when a dog points old scent and doesn’t realize the bird is no longer there.
• Flushing Dog – A flushing dog is characterized by hunting within gun range at all times and will put the bird in the air for close shooting opportunities. It can hunt both on land and in the water.

• Give/Drop/Release – These are commands telling a dog to relinquish the item it’s retrieving item into the hand of its handler.
• Gun shy – A gun-shy dog is so fearful of the sound of a gunshot that it paralyzes them in fear and can no longer be hunted at that time, or ever again depending on the severity.
• Gun-sensitive – A gun-sensitive dog can recover from its fear of the shot and continues to hunt.
• Hacking – Hacking is when a handler over-commands their dog to maintain control
• Honoring – Honoring is the act of showing interest yet not interfering with another dog’s work be it pointing or retrieving.
• Hold – Hold is a command telling a dog not to drop game or retrieving dummy/bumper.
• Long Nose – Describes a dog’s ability to scent birds at a great distance.
• Making Game – Making game describes when a dog is working scent to locate a bird.
• Marker Words – Words used to identify good and bad behaviors. Yes is a word commonly used to identify behavior we want to see more of and Bad or negative tone or noise to mark behaviors we want to see less of. The word No is commonly used however it’s not a good marker word as it sounds too much like whoa.
• Mouthing Birds – The unsavory act of playing with, breaking bones, and putting holes in the meat potentially making game unfit for the table.
• Marking -To mark is when the dog makes a visual connection to a bird or bumper that is in the air as well as on land or in the water.
• Nose Work – Describes a dog’s ability to use scent to locate game.
• Obedience – Obedience is the dog’s ability to quickly follow commands without hesitation.
• Passive Disobedient – A passive disobedient dog uses submissive acts such as cowering and rolling over as a way to avoid training pressure.
• Parading – Parading refers to the selfish act of swinging out and/or past the handler before returning to its handler for the finished retrieve.
• Pointing – Pointing is defined as an intense, convincing, unmistakable, and in the end productive stationary positioning of a dog in the presence of game.
• Poison Bird – A retrieving exercise where a handler asks a dog to ignore a marked “poison” bird, then requires the dog to follow a separate set of retrieving tasks.
• Popping – When asked to search or retrieve and the dog hesitates to require additional commands to comply often associated with trust issues. Often seen at the release for a retrieve and just before the finish of a retrieve.
• Productive – Describes a dog that finds many birds in its search.
• Purpose – The desirable trait of showing a purpose to find game in the dog’s search. Alternatively, a dog lacking in purpose runs the field as if being taken on its daily walk.
• Pushing out / Nosing out the bird – The act of using its nose to push up the bird into flight. Often seen in the early steadiness work of developmental dogs or dogs that know they are not allowed to catch the bird.
• Quartering – Quartering is a windshield wiper-type pattern out in front of a dog’s handler maximizing the potential of finding game by leaving little area untouched by the dog.
• Recall – Recall is the trained finished position of a dog that is asked to come to you. It can be in your general vicinity, at the immediate front, or directly to the handler’s side. Preferably, the dog would be at the non-gun side so as to not be under the gun.
• Regrip – The act of putting the bird down (without the mouth leaving the bird) so that the dog can more easily return the bird to its handler. It’s generally accepted that a dog can put down a bird to get a better grip as long as it’s not playing with the bird.
• Relocate – The act of a dog’s ability to relocate running birds or short-flighted birds to a re-establishing point, providing another opportunity to kill the bird.
• Roading or Riding In On Birds – When a dog locates the scent of a bird and encroaches upon it in an attempt to get as close as possible.
• Self-Hunting – Dogs that are self-hunters will be selfish in their hunting style. This includes trying to catch birds on their own, refusing to listen to commands, and running for the hills. These types of dogs are of little use for the on-foot hunter.
• Self Release – The dog releases from its position prior to being commanded to do so.
• Soft – Soft is a description given to a dog that struggles to handle light training pressures and becomes fearful and submissive.
• Started Dog – A developmental dog that has begun its steadiness process and has an obedience foundation under it.
• Staunching Up Your Dog – Staunching up your dog is the act of supporting a pointing dog by stroking its tail, back, and shoulders to send a message of encouragement and teamwork between the dog and its handler.
• Steady – A dog can be steady, staunch, or broke, meaning it will remain frozen in place until commanded to move. No matter the number of shots that go off, or the direction the bird flies, the dog’s feet remain planted on the ground.
• Stealing A Point – Stealing a point is when a dog points ahead of another dog already established on point to compete for the bird.
• Stop to Flush – When a dog stops when a target game bird flies.
• Taking A Line – Taking a line is asking the dog to run a straight line towards an undisclosed objective until commanded to stop or until reaching its retrieving objective.
• Takeout – A dog that chooses to attempt to capture the game on its own is ripping birds, pushing them out, nosing them up, self-released, or taking the bird out.
• Trash Breaking – Originating from training your dog to leave trash alone in your home, trash breaking describes the training involved to keep a dog from chasing off game species such as deer, porcupine, skunks, or snakes.
• Underfoot / Boot Licking – Underfoot or bootlicking is the act of hunting so tight to the handler that it is of little to use as a productive hunting companion.
• Upland Hunting – Upland hunting is an American term describing the hunting of various game birds such as grouse, quail, woodcock, and pheasants.
• Versatile Hunting Dog – A versatile hunting dog is a dog that can hunt many game species both on land and in water.
• Wild Flush – A wild flush is when a bird takes flight when a dog approaches the bird without an opportunity to acknowledge the scent of the bird.
• Zones of Fire – Zones of fire are used when multiple hunters gather around a pointing dog. Each gunner restricts their shooting to their zone of fire for safety reasons.

Bird Dog Field Commands

Each handler will need their own set of field commands. They are highly customizable and can be individually specific to each handler. Commands need to be easily understood by the dog; they’re usually either one or two words. It’s important to only use commands when needed and keep the list to only essential commands.

READ: How to Correctly Command Your Dog

Here are some commonly used field commands:

• Back – The command back means to turn and take a straight line 180 degrees away from you.
• Come/Here – This is the recall command from a stationary handler asking a dog to come to you and to finish at a specific place usually to your front or side. The come or here whistle command is traditionally two quick and short blasts or multiple short blasts in succession from a pea-less end of a two tone whistle. However, many prefer a single tone whistles for all commands.
• Come Around – Come around is a command given to a dog as you are moving. It commands the dog to check back or check in with its handler with the requirement to finish.
• Down – Down is a command to lay down and not to move. It has many hunting and home-living applications.
• Fetch – Fetch is the release command given to go and retrieve a marked retrieve of a bumper or game.
• Heel – The heel command tells the dog to come with you at your side. The dog’s front feet align with yours and remain close to your side, no further than a body width from you. The dog should also not touch your leg.
• Kennel / Crate – The command given for the dog to go into its crate. No matter if it’s in your truck, backyard, or a kennel in your home, a dog should easily go to its crate on command.
• Leave It – Leave it is another command with many applications. Leave the skunk, porcupine, grass, or feces alone, and don’t go back.
• Mark – The mark command tells a dog to look ahead for a visual cue to assist in its retrieve.
• Over – Over is a retrieving command asking a dog to take a 90-degree line right or left and remain on that line until the retrieving item is either found or another command is given.
• Place – Place is a command telling the dog to go sit or stand at a location commonly identified by a blind mat or place board.
• Turn Commands – Some handlers like to use a turn command in the field to control their dog’s search pattern. This can be one quick blast with a change of direction from the handler or a hand signal pointing in the direction for the dog to follow.
• Up Front – Commands the dog to move ahead of you in its search.
• Release Commands – A release command tells a dog that its work is done and it is free to make its own choices. Ideally, it’s a command not commonly used in normal conversation. Free, break, or release are common examples of a release command. However, using the word “okay” as a release command is a mistake many new handlers make as it’s often used in conversation, resulting in the inadvertent release of the dog.
• Sit – The sit command asks a dog to plant its hind end on the ground.
• Stay – The stay command lets the dog know you will be moving away from it and it must remain in place.
• Whoa – Whoa is the command to stop or sit and not to move. Commonly, it’s one long blast of the pea side of a two-tone whistle. That being said, handlers successfully use all kinds of whistles.

It’s important to follow a consistent set of commands from early on in your dog’s development. Oftentimes, handlers will attempt to have more of a dialogue in the field which tends to confuse the dog. Your dog studies you incredibly hard each and every day to become masterful at following your commands. We can encourage clarity by doing our part in keeping to the script. In doing so, you will find a far more responsive dog who accurately follows each and every command.

Training and Troubleshooting the Recall Command with Dogs

The Importance of Training Steadiness in Bird Dogs

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Axes are ancient tools that come in very handy for the modern explorer. To the uninitiated, axes may all seem the same. In fact, there are several types and various constructions, some of which are better suited for off-roading, overlanding, and camping.

In this article, we’ll cover the best axes for camping and overlanding, how to choose one, and why you might need one. If you are simply looking for a quick recommendation, the Gerber Bushcraft Axe is a good choice for a durable, all-around backcountry axe.

Our Recommendations for Best Axes

Gerber is well-known for making quality tools for backcountry adventures. In recent years, as they’ve worked to appeal to a larger market, they’ve managed to bring down the price of their once-expensive knives, multi-tools, and other equipment.

The Gerber Bushcraft Axe hits a sweet spot between affordability and function and is a great all-around axe for camping and vehicle-based outdoor adventure. The axe is great for cutting rounds of wood and kindling and is sturdy enough for clearing thick tree branches. The hammer on the back of the axe comes in handy for hammering in tent pegs and other camp tasks. This is the heavy axe on our list, but offers the widest functionality. The axe comes with a sheath that covers the head. It comes with Gerber’s limited lifetime warranty.

Here’s my video review of the Gerber axe:

The Council Tool Boy’s Axe is a great size for camping and on-the-fly trail work. The 2.25-pound head is Dayton style and the handle is made of hickory. These aren’t as fancy as the high-end Nordic-made axes, but they are solid, unpretentious utility axes that get the job done.

Gränsfors Bruk is one of the premier Swiss axe makers, and it’s worth highlighting several of their models. These axes are a premium product and don’t come cheap. That said, they are the kind of tool you lovingly pass down to future generations.

Their Small Forest Axe has a narrow head that’s great for cutting through trunks and branches. You can certainly still use this for splitting wood, but it will be more difficult given the narrow axe head and lack of a metal collar on the top of the handle. It comes with a leather sheath. The back of the axe head can be used as a hammer.

Here’s a video about the company and its manufacturing process:

The German company, Helko Werk has been making axes since 1844 and is one of the oldest axe makers still operating in Europe. Their Journeyman Pack axe is designed to be lightweight, compact, and easy to carry while trekking through the wilderness. Comfortable to use one or two-handed, the Journeyman is a versatile tool for cutting kindling, removing limb branches, building shelters, and other light splitting or cutting work.

The Gränsfors Bruk Outdoor Axe is much shorter than the other axes on this list, making it easier to stow and carry. Its head is thin enough for felling trees and chopping limbs, but still has enough taper to be used for splitting and the handle has a protective steel collar near the head so that the axe can be used for light wood splitting tasks. Like the Helko Werk axe noted above, this is an axe that you can easily put into a backpack. It comes with a leather sheath. The back of the axe head can be used as a hammer.

Named for the US park ranger who developed this axe design, Pulaski-style axes, also known as cutter matlock, combine a felling axe head with an adze (narrow hoe-like tool) that can be used for digging in hard ground or chipping away at bark.

While they aren’t as good as the other axes at chopping and cutting wood, they are highly versatile. The adze can come in handy if you need to trench a latrine or break through ice. The Barebones Pulaski axe is a beast, with a high-carbon steel head and a steel core running through the handle. It’s on the heavy side at 5.55 pounds, but the weight gives you momentum for breaking though tough wood and ground.

How to Choose the Best Axe

An axe is a must for chopping firewood when camping. A hatchet is great for chopping small kindling, but larger rounds are much easier to split with a larger axe. They are also clutch for clearing trail obstructions when overlanding and off-roading. In heavily wooded areas, it’s not uncommon to come across tree limbs blocking in the trail, in which case an axe will help you to quickly clear the way and carry on.

Some axes, such as the Pulaski style axe discussed below, integrate additional functionality that can come in handy for breaking hard ground when you need to dig a hole and for other tasks. Combined with an off-road shovel, an axe can help solve many problems on the trail.

There are several factors to keep in mind when choosing an ax, including the axe’s construction, style, size, and cost.

Some of the most sought-after axes on the market are made in Scandinavian countries that boast a long history of axe craftsmanship — think Vikings and big axes. That said, a number of American companies make quality axes that are well worth considering.

Axe Construction

Most axe heads are made from various types of steel, with the most expensive being hand-forged versus cast. Forged steel is widely considered to result in a stronger product compared to casting, where molten metal is poured into a mold to harden. In the old days, this hammering was done manually, with a hammer, but companies that produce large quantities of axes nowadays typically use an automatic press that does the hammering. Some smaller, boutique axe manufacturers still bang out axe heads by hand.

For light use, the difference between forging and casting may never be an issue, while the difference in cost is significant. High-quality axe heads are typically made from a steel alloy that is high in carbon, which allows the head to be sharpened and hold an edge longer.

One thing you’ll see is the shape of an axes head as either Dayton style or Hudson style, particularly for axes made in America. The Dayton-style heads are more square, and good for general outdoor jobs. The Hudson-style heads fan out from the handle to form a wide cutting surface.

Axe handles are typically made of wood (hickory is a good choice) or a fiberglass or plastic composite. Sometimes the handle will incorporate a metal core to provide strength and balance the handle and the head.

Wooden handles axes will typically require more maintenance than those with composite handles. This is particularly true in desert regions where extremely dry air can cause wood to crack. However, they are also typically easier to repair than a composite handle, and the provenance of composite handles can be a bit difficult to discern sometimes (a.k.a., the head may be forged in the US or Europe, but the handle may be mass-produced in China).

Axe Length

A full-sized axe used by lumberjacks is around 36-inches long, but that’s unnecessarily large for off-roading and camping. Something smaller, around 24-inches long, will be more versatile and easier to transport. There are also axes, like the Gränsfors Outdoor Axe mentioned below, which fall somewhere between a hatchet and a full-size axe. This gives you a nice mix of compact size with a bit more swinging power than a hatchet.

Axe Style

Axes can be divided into three broad categories: splitting axes, felling axes and generalist axes used for a variety of tasks.

How to choose?

The style of axes that is best for you depends to a large extent on how you anticipate using it most. If you’ll mostly be chopping wood in camp, you’ll probably lean more towards a splitting axe. If you’ll be clearing a lot of trees off of trails, a felling axe will come in handy. If you anticipate needing to break hard ground as well as deal with wood, the Pulaski axe will provide you with that versatility.

While they may are designed towards a specific use, most axes can be used for splitting and felling. So don’t get too hung up on what style you buy — with axes such as splitting mauls that have a very specific purpose being the exception. Generally speaking, for camping and overlanding it’s a good idea to choose a relatively compact and lightweight axe that can withstand the elements.

As a word of caution, as with many products, there are many cheap knockoffs on the market nowadays. The old saying, you get what you pay for, doesn’t even hold up with some of these products. Sometimes you get far less than you pay for. The axes we highlight below are high-quality products from reputable manufacturers.

All Recommended Axes

You hear people talking about soaking venison in buttermilk. But why? Does it work? I tried it and here’s what happened.

For YEARS people have been telling me to soak venison in milk or buttermilk before cooking it. Any time I put a post out on social media about why deer meat might taste *gamey* someone always comments “soak in milk overnight. Works every time.” Honestly, I never really got the hype.

Prefer watching a video over reading an article? Here’s the full experiment I did on YouTube!

After all this time, I decided to do a controlled study. I took venison chops from the same animal and cooked them the exact same way: salted, seared in a cast iron pan, basted in garlic, thyme and butter, rested for 10 minutes, finished with flakey salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon. My variable was soaking 3 of the chops in buttermilk overnight prior to cooking.

Here’s what happened:

Why soak venison in buttermilk? What does it do?

People have been soaking venison and other proteins in milk or buttermilk for years. The claim is that the acidic or low ph level helps to break down the tissue to tenderize the meat while also ridding the meat of a powerfully “gamey” or wild/iron-like flavor.

I ultimately choose to work with buttermilk because it has a lower ph level than milk.

Why I was skeptical

I was mainly skeptical because of the marriage of flavor between venison and milk/buttermilk. It’s just not an inherently great pairing. My initial thought was “yes, I’m sure the acid in buttermilk can help tenderize the meat but wouldn’t you be better off using a marinade with flavors that complement venison? Like citrus or red wine.”. I’m in love with my All-Purpose Marinade (and still am after this experiment) so my thoughts were to stick with something like that instead of using a dairy product.

The thought of getting all of the buttermilk off of the meat before cooking also seemed daunting. One of my biggest tips for working with any protein is drying your meat with a paper towel as best you can before cooking to get a great sear. So, this worried me, too. But, forth I went to the kitchen.

How to soak venison in buttermilk

To soak venison in buttermilk all you need to do is grab a zip-top bag or bowl with a lid and totally submerge the meat in the buttermilk. I marinated overnight, but 4 hours or so should do the trick.

Next, once the meat is marinated, remove it from the buttermilk and PAT IT DRY. You’re going to use up a few paper towels (or kitchen towels if you’re OK with that). BUT DO NOT RINSE THE MEAT. Just be very diligent and pat the meat dry with a towel. It will be fine and actually didn’t hinder the searing process or leave a weird taste behind at all. (are you starting to get the sense that this worked well for me?!)

Next, heat a cast iron pan or grill over medium-high heat. I prefer the cast iron method so I’ll talk about that here.

While your pan heats, salt the meat generously and pat it dry AGAIN with a towel. When the pan is hot, add some sort of high heat tolerant cooking fat (duck fat, avocado oil, etc) and add the meat to the pan.

Cooking time will vary depending on the size of your chops. But, when you have a nice sear on one side (anywhere from 2-5 minutes) flip the meat. Then, add about 1-2 tablespoons of butter, smashed garlic cloves and fresh thyme to the pan. Tilt the pan to the side and baste the meat by spooning the butter and aromatics over the chops.

Once the internal temperature reaches about 115-125F, remove the meat from the pan. If you’re grilling just flip and grill on each side for 2-5 mins. You do NOT want to cook venison over medium-rare. I like rare plus. Trust me and get used to cooking it this way.

Let it rest for at least 10 minutes before slicing against the grain.

Season with some fresh cracked pepper, flakey salt (or regular salt – just a pinch) and a little squeeze of lemon. You’re done! That’s all there is to it.

Here’s how soaking deer meat in buttermilk works

The ph level in buttermilk helps to break down the tissue to tenderize the meat and aid in moisture retention resulting in potentially more tender and juicy meat. The protein found in dairy, casein, also binds to the meat potentially helping to rid the animal of a powerfully “gamey” or wild/iron-like flavor.

Does soaking venison in buttermilk work?

In short – YES! Here’s what I noticed after comparing plain venison and buttermilk soaked venison cooked in the same fashion:

1. The meat was more tender and retained more liquid making it plumper and juicer. The buttermilk soaked meat actually looked different than the control on the inside. It was visibly juicer (check out the video to see).
2. The flavor of the buttermilk marinated meat was more mild. I actually prefer the control group (plain, unmarianted) because the taste was fresher and a bit more *wild*, if you will. However, the animial I was working with was extremely palatable and perfectly cooked (if I do say so myself).
3. The meat did not taste poor due to being soaked in dairy! I managed to get off all of the buttermilk just by patting dry and there was not a residual flavor left behind.

So…Should you soak deer meat in milk or buttermilk?

Here’s my conclusion. Soaking in buttermilk can help if one of the following circumstances is true for you:

• You don’t like the taste of deer meat because you’re not used to eating it and you have a bunch of chops and steaks to use up and you like beef steak.
• You harvested an older buck or buck in peak rut and the flavor is strong. Or really if you have an animal that just tastes really negatively different to you (maybe it’s diet, lifestyle) from past deer you’ve consumed.
• Something went awry with your kill and you potentially didn’t execute swiftly enough.
• You’re cooking for a group of people who are intimidated by the flavor of deer meat.
• Something went amis during the field dressing or processing process (and the meat is still safe to eat).
• You just want to switch things up because you’ve got SO MUCH deer meat on hand.

All in all, I’m pleasantly surprised by the results of this study. Will I always soak my meat in buttermilk? Nah. Will I do it again? Probably! I was impressed by the tender texture it resulted in most of all.

Thanks for humoring me and encouraging me to write this post! What should I test next? In the meantime, grab a copy of my cookbook, Venison Every Day, for more recipe ideas!

Other recipes you may find helpful:

• Ground Venison Tacos
• Venison Lasagna
• Venison Chili
• Venison Burgers
• Venison Enchiladas
• Venison Pasta Bake

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The venerable 20 Gauge is an often-underrated round, but the truth is it’s still an excellent option for sport shooting, hunting upland game or deer, and even home defense. It’s also a great option for new or recoil-sensitive shooters looking for something with less recoil than a typical 12 gauge.

These days, there is a plethora of great 20 gauge ammo choices out there for us to use, so much so that choosing the right one from all the ones available can actually be a little difficult.

We’re going to fix that.

Below you’ll find all of the best 20 gauge ammo options out there today. We’ve got picks for hunting (bird and buckshot), trap/skeet shooting, having fun at the range, and even self-defense. If you simply can’t wait, the best 20 gauge ammo overall is Winchester Super-X #3 Buckshot.

If you’re new to 20 gauge ammo and want to learn more about how to pick the best ammo for your shotgun, check out our Buyer’s Guide HERE.

Otherwise, keep reading because we went through a lot of 20 gauge shotgun shells to get this comparison done, so let’s dive right in.

Top 5 Best 20 Gauge Ammo Picks

1) Winchester Super-X #3 Buckshot – Best Overall

2) Winchester Defender #3 Buckshot – Best for Self-Defense

3) Federal Premium TruBall Rifled Slug – Best Slug Ammo

4) Remington Premier TSS #7 Shot – Best Turkey ammo

5) Federal Game Load Upland #7-1/2 Shot – Best for Upland Game

Best 20 Gauge Ammo Overall

Winchester Super-X #3 Buckshot

Specs

• Shot Load: 20x #3 Buckshot
• Length: 2 ¾”
• Muzzle Velocity: 1200 fps

Pros

• Very affordable
• Available in bulk
• Variety of shot loads available

Cons

• Patterning less consistent
• Might not cycle as well in gas or inertia-operated guns.

Why We Chose It

Whether you’re blasting clays, hunting on the cheap, or just stocking ammo for the end of days (which feels more and more like it could be any day now) it’s hard to go wrong with Winchester Super X.

Winchester offers a variety of shot loads from target loads/birdshot to slugs and high-brass buckshot. We’ve chosen the latter option here but really they’re all solid options you can buy cheap and stack deep.

The 20 gauge buckshot in particular is a good budget hunting or home-defense option that’s unlikely to let you down, though it does lack a little bit when compared to higher-end ammo that’s more tailored for defense or deer hunting.

Still, Super-X is plentiful, affordable, and more than sufficient for most tasks. And it’s the best on this list for turning money into noise at the range, which is a valuable attribute too. This is by far the best 20 gauge ammo for target shooting you’ll find.

Best 20 Gauge Ammo For Home/Self-Defense

Winchester Defender #3 Buckshot

Specs

• Shot Load: 20x #3 Buckshot
• Length: 2 ¾”
• Muzzle Velocity: 1,145 fps

Pros

• High-Velocity
• Ideal Self-Defense Load
• Copper Plated

Cons

• More expensive than standard buckshot

Why We Chose It

12 gauge shotguns may be the default scattergun choice for home defense, but the humble 20 gauge makes for a great home defense shotgun too, especially with modern ammo shooting a plated payload

Winchester Defender is a high-brass, copper-plated buckshot round available in segmented and rifled slugs as well as #3 buckshot depending on your needs and whether you’re worried more about longer or shorter ranges.

We’ve chosen the buckshot option here because it offers a good shot size, and less recoil than some other roughly equivalent 20 gauge shells out there. Twenty #3 buckshot pellets are basically the equivalent of emptying a full magazine of handgun ammo with a single trigger press, so this is more than enough for close-range threats.

It has an advantage over traditional deer hunting loads because of that harder copper plating that makes it more akin to a steel waterfowl load, albeit with much larger pellets. We didn’t get the recoil gauges out, but it also seems to have lower felt recoil than some other defensive options.

Best 20 Gauge Slug Ammo

Federal Premium TruBall Rifled Slug

Specs

• Bullet Weight: 328gr TruBall Hollow Point Slug
• Muzzle Velocity: 1600 fps
• Length: 2 ¾”

Pros

• Inexpensive
• Very High Velocity
• 1.4” groups at 50 yards

Cons

• Non-plated/jacketed lead projectile

Why We Chose It

For slugs, you have quite a few options but our favorite is the Federal Premium TruBall Rifled Slug. This is a great slug option for smoothbore barrels and is perfect for any medium-sized game or even self-defense in a pinch. A ¾ oz lead slug is going to make anything from a whitetail to a home invader take notice pretty quickly.

Federal uses a plastic ball (the TruBall in question) to lock the slug into the wad securely, which helps to firmly center the slug in unrifled barrels which translates into a big increase in downrange accuracy. It also helps the wad and slug to separate cleanly at the muzzle.

This is a great option for anyone that wants more versatility out of a smooth-bore 20 gauge barrel and is perfect for virtually any application that calls for a slug.

Best 20 Gauge Turkey Load

Remington Premier TSS 20 Gauge Ammo

Specs

• Shot Load: 1.5oz #7 or #9
• Length: 3
• Muzzle Velocity:1,100

Pros

• High-Velocity
• 18g/cc Weight
• Tungsten Super Shot Payload

Cons

• Very Pricey

Why We Chose It

Remington’s Premier TSS is a favorite with turkey hunters that want to make every shot count due to its tight pattern and ultra-dense shot load. The specially-designed, ultra-dense tungsten pellets hit hard and make it easier to go with smaller (and more) shot and still get the same energy downrange due to the increased mass.

Mass x velocity in this case equals more dead birds than you get with a standard lead shot as these tungsten pellets are more than 50% the density of your average turkey load.

It is expensive, but if you’re like me you aren’t bagging birds left and right, so making every shot count matters more here and the extra expense is worth it. For a 20 gauge load, this is especially worth it even at short ranges.

Check out our available stock of Remington 20 Gauge Slugs or Fiocchi 20 Gauge ammo for more options.

Best for 20 Gauge Ammo for Upland Game

Federal Game Load Upland #7-1/2 Shot

Specs

• Shot Load: 7/8 oz #7-1/2
• Length: 2 ¾”
• Muzzle Velocity: 1,210

Pros

• Low recoil
• Tight patterns
• Affordable

Cons

• Lead shot not allowed in all areas

Why We Chose It

The Federal Game Load Upland #7-1/2 is an excellent choice for do-all upland game load that won’t break your budget. These 20 gauge shells produced a nice, tight pattern in our hands and were extremely effective against quail, dove, and any other upland game that dare cross our path.

Packed into a nice, compact 2 ¾” shell length, Federal Game Loads had slightly less recoil than other offerings from Federal like their Vital-Shok, Power Shok, Hevi-Shot, and Top Gun. These game loads also proved to be a great option for sporting clays, as we had a great afternoon exploding clay pigeons with them.

The only downside to these game loads is that they are loaded with lead shot, which is prohibited in some areas. However, Federal has steel shot Game Loads if you need them, but for the price you simply cannot beat the classic #7-1/2 lead shot payload Federal offers.

Parting Shots

There are a ton of great options out there for 20 Gauge ammo, and hopefully, we’ve given you a good idea of what’s available and where to start your search.

Anyone going after larger game birds might be interested in Remington Premier TSS while anyone looking for a low-recoil self-defense option should check out the Winchester Defender line. Budget-wise, it’s hard to beat good old Winchester Super-X in either birdshot or buckshot loads.

And of course, there are other great options out there that we haven’t covered here, so be sure to check out our full range of 20 Gauge ammo to see if there’s something else that might be better suited to your specific needs.

Don’t forget to check out our Hornady 20 Gauge Slugs page for more slug options.

20 Gauge Ammo Buyer’s Guide

Congratulations on your new 20 gauge shotgun! I promise you are going to fall in love with this scatter gun as all the different varieties of 20 gauge ammo offer a ton of versatility without the punishing recoil of a 12 gauge.

No matter if you got a classic pump action like a Mossberg 500 or beautiful Benelli 828 Over/Under, we can help you pick the best shotgun loads for your new, favorite 20 gauge.

Below is our Buyer’s Guide to help you understand how to pick the right shotgun ammo for your new 20 gauge.

What’s a Gauge? Shotgun Bore Size Explained

If you’re familiar with shotguns, you’ll know that a lower gauge means a bigger caliber. However, if you’re new to shotguns or firearms in general, this can be a confusing concept to grasp.

Handgun and rifle calibers are defined by their internal bore diameter. A 40-caliber handgun has 0.40 inch diameter bore. This means the bigger the number, the bigger the bullet the gun can fire. However, shotgun gauges are determined by a more archaic system.

Gauge is determined by the number of lead balls with the same diameter as the barrel that add up to one pound.

So, for 20 gauge shotguns, it requires 20 lead balls with a 0.615 inch diameter to equal one pound. To put this into perspective, a 12 gauge shotgun has a 0.729” diameter bore.

Although this is really technical, just remember that for shotguns, a higher gauge corresponds to a smaller bore diameter.

Rifled vs Smooth Bore: What Slugs to Buy?

When it comes to deer hunting, you simply cannot beat a slug for pure stopping power and terminal performance. And although everyone seems to be gushing over their beloved 12-gauge deer guns, the 20-gauge shotgun is an extremely effective whitetail terminating machine.

Shotgun barrels come in two options, smooth bore or rifled. Smooth bore shotguns have no internal rifling and are the more classic design. Rifled barrels have rifling similar to handguns and centerfire rifles that help stabilize slugs by introducing spin to the projectile.

However, purchasing slugs for your new 20 gauge venison harvester can be confusing as there are two varieties available: rifled and sabot slugs. And understanding which shotgun ammo goes with your barrel is critical for downrange performance.

Rifled slugs are designed for smooth bore shotguns.

These slugs have rifling on the projectile that helps the slug begin rotation in the barrel. Rifled slugs shout NOT be used in a rifled barrel as this can cause leading and will negatively impact accuracy.

Sabot slugs are essentially a large bullet fired from a shotgun. The bullet is held in a plastic cup that falls off after the slug leaves the barrel. Sabot slugs are excellent for long range shots as the traditional bullet design is considerably more aerodynamic than a rifled slug.

Sabot slugs are used in rifled barrel shotguns.

Sabots can be safely fired from smooth bore shotguns but you will likely find they are considerably more accurate when fired from a rifled barrel.

Birdshot vs Buckshot: Shot Size Explained

The difference between birdshot and buckshot is the size of projectiles (shot/pellets) loaded into the shotshell and their penetration ability.

Buckshot fires larger pellets in lower numbers while birdshot fires smaller pellets in much higher quantities. Buckshot loads have high penetration while birdshot typically have lower penetration ability.

Read more about buckshot and birdshot here: Buckshot vs Birdshot.

As its name implies, birdshot is primarily designed for hunting birds like quail, grouse, pheasant, duck, goose, and even turkey. However, birdshot is capable of small game hunting and is quite capable against rabbits, squirrels, and even snakes.

Although primarily developed for bird and small game hunting, birdshot is also used for shotgun shooting competitions such as skeet, trap, and sporting clays.

Pellet shot size works on an inverse scale, just like shotgun gauge, meaning that the larger the shot number, the smaller the pellet size. For example, #5 shot is larger than #8 shot. The most common birdshot sizes you’ll see at the ammo counter are 7, 7 ½, 8, and 9 which can be used for bird hunting and sporting clays.

Although some birdshot loads can carry well over 500 pellets, these lightweight projectiles don’t carry a lot of kinetic energy. Although perfect for felling birds or bursting clay pigeons, they are less effective on large game or in self-defense.

For that you’ll need something with a bit more oomph behind it…like buckshot.

Buckshot, like its name suggests, was designed for hunting medium to larger game. As a “buck” is a term for a male deer, buckshot was primarily designed for whitetail hunting.

Buckshot fires larger pellets but fewer of them. Furthermore, they are often loaded with more powder than birdshot, giving them higher recoil but increased penetration and range. However, unlike birdshot, buckshot typically has a tighter pattern as you want all that stopping power put into a smaller area to harvest big game.

Just like with birdshot, buckshot gauge is measured in reverse. This means that No. 4 Buck will be smaller than No. 1 Buck.

Buckshot is typically not used on birds or small game due to the amount of kinetic energy it carries. Using buckshot on a bird is considered, by many, unethical and typically renders the majority of the meat inedible.

Although buckshot might not be the best choice for bird hunting, its widespread use by law enforcement has led many homeowners to rely on a home defense shotgun loaded buckshot shells for protection.

Why are 20 Gauge Shotshells Yellow?

One thing you might notice is that virtually every 20 gauge shotshell is colored yellow. This is done to prevent them from being confused with 12 gauge shotgun ammo.

If a 20 gauge shotshell we accidentally loaded into a 12 gauge shotgun, a 12-gauge shell loaded behind could cause the 20-gauge shell to fire inside the magazine causing catastrophic damage to the firearm and potentially the shooter.

Although there is not an industry mandate that all 20-gauge shotgun ammo be yellow, most every manufacturer holds to this unofficial standard.

To learn more about how 12 gauge compares to 20 gauge, check out this article: 12 Gauge vs 20 Gauge.

What Shotgun Ammo Should You Buy? Buckshot vs Birdshot vs Slugs

Now that you have a better understanding of what types of 20 gauge shotgun shells are available, let’s talk about what you should be loading into your scatter gun.

For general target shooting, sporting clays, or upland game, you’re going to want to get some game loads or bird shot. This type of shotgun ammo has low recoil and fires a lot of tiny pellets to give you a good pattern and the highest probability of hitting your target. These loads are typically filled with #7-1/2, #8, or #9 shot and can be bought in bulk from companies like Rio, Fiocchi, Remington, Winchester, and Federal.

For home defense, buckshot is the best choice. A typical 20-gauge shotshell filled with #3 buckshot will contain around 20 pellets. This means when you squeeze the trigger, you are essentially firing the equivalent of twenty 0.25” caliber bullets at the same time. That will stop just about any threat pretty quickly if you ask me! Multiple pellets also have the added advantage of increasing your chances of hitting vital organs to incapacitate a bad guy as quickly as possible.

For deer hunting, slugs are your best friend. Although buckshot was designed for big game hunting, many states and territories prohibit its use for this purpose. This is because at longer ranges, buckshot spreads out and increases the potential for only wounding a deer. Slugs, on the other hand, provide hunters with higher levels of accuracy at longer ranges and focus all the shotgun’s power into a single point. Slugs increase stopping power and reduces the potential for merely wounding the animal.

Shotgun slugs can be used for home defense, however over-penetration is a big problem. A 20-gauge shotgun slug is great when hunting in the woods where over-penetration doesn’t really matter, but indoors you need to consider the safety of your family members. A 20-gauge slug will typically have no issues passing through any would-be home invader and several layers of drywall behind them, possibly hitting an innocent bystander or a loved one. Therefore, it is our recommendation that buckshot should be primarily used for home defense over slugs.

Now that you know which shotgun ammo to buy, let’s get back to our Top 5 List of the best 20 gauge ammo available by clicking HERE!

If you’re not fairly immersed into the bass fishing scene, you’ve likely never heard the term “meanmouth”. And even if you are as big into bass fishing as one could be, it’s still easy to have missed the boat on this terminology used to describe a hybrid mix between a spotted bass and a smallmouth.

Meanmouth are simply that though, the resultant offspring of an unnatural union between a Tennessee Smallmouth Bass and an Alabama Spotted Bass (commonly referred to for years as Coosa spots).

With this crossbreeding occurring in nature, it seems like the term unnatural might be a bit of a stretch. But the unnatural part refers more to how the possibility of these two species mating came about in the first place- the unauthorized introduction of the Alabama Spotted Bass into smallmouth fisheries.

Though the adventurous culprits of this malfeasance were likely motivated by the somewhat pure hope of having yet another aggressive and big bass to pursue in these waters, the introduction of the Alabama Spots and the resulting “mutt” hybrid offspring makes for trouble in these historic smallmouth fisheries.

B.A.S.S. Conservation Director Gene Gilliland commented on the ramifications.

“This Alabama Bass invasion and hybridization is resulting in the decline of Smallmouth Bass fisheries in almost every reservoir where they have been introduced into in Tennessee, North Carolina, Georgia and Virginia,” said Gilliland.

Both Smallmouth Bass and Alabama Spotted Bass are ferocious fish with big appetites. But it seems as those the cross between these two is an even more aggressive fish, that’s likely to consume more than its fair share of the forage. Which will, in time, hurt the population of native bass.

“Biologists with TWRA (Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency) are very worried that if the trend continues, many of the prized smallmouth fisheries in Tennessee will be reduced if not eliminated,” Gilliland stated. “Even the largemouth populations will likely suffer.”

The concern is that famed southern fisheries like Ft. Loudoun, Watts Bar, Tims Ford, Chickamauga and Cherokee will see a decrease in the smallmouth populations that make them so special.

“Even lakes on the Cumberland drainage like Dale Hollow, home of the world record Smallmouth Bass, are now at risk of losing their Smallmouth fisheries,” added Gilliland.

Classic consideration

The presence of meanmouth in these fisheries puts a new burden on tournament organizations, with no bigger impact imaginable than what we could see this week in the 2024 Academy Sports + Outdoors Bassmaster Classic presented by Toyota.

There are specific regulations that must be satisfied to possess a bass of a certain species, and they’re rarely the same across all bass species in a fishery. For instance, a smallmouth caught in Fort Loudon must be at least 18- inches long to keep and bring to weigh-in. A largemouth need only be 14- inches long. And there is no minimum length required for spotted bass to be kept, though B.A.S.S. will require a minimum of 12- inches on spots for the Classic.

But taking into consideration that a meanmouth is a cross between a spotted bass and a smallmouth, how long does this hybrid bass need to be if an angler wants to bring it on stage at the Classic? The TWRA has taken this stance.

There is no “official” regulation on bass hybrids, but we advise anglers if there is a question about a fish that looks like a hybrid bass, then abide by the most restrictive regulation. If an angler catches and wants to keep for weigh-in a hybrid bass that looks like a smallmouth bass x spotted bass cross or a smallmouth bass x largemouth bass cross, then those fish would need to be 18 inches.

Since these bass have several of the characteristics of multiple species present, there’s no clear and concise way to lump them in with either. This means the anglers must air to the side of caution when trying to determine the length these bass mixtures must be. The TWRA offered additional clarification on the matter.

The presence of a tooth patch is not recommended to delineate among black bass species. Brown fish with vertical bars should be considered smallmouth regardless of the presence of tooth patch and must be at least 18 inches in length to retain.

The tooth patch referenced here is a rough spot that is found on the tongue of spotted bass, and it has long been used as one of the ways to differentiate spotted bass from largemouth bass, in the event the identity of the species of the particular catch was in question.

But some of these meanmouth have the tooth patch on their tongues as well, so this is no longer a sufficient metric for categorizing a bass as a spotted bass.

Though meanmouth have muddied the waters a bit here in Tennessee, it’s not likely this bass hybrid will cause a big stir in the 53rd Bassmaster Classic this week. But the presence of this new species of bass could wreak havoc on some of the South’s favorite fisheries overtime.

The takeaway

The TWRA and other organizations want to raise awareness to the long-term consequences of the introduction of non-native fish species into any fishery. Ultimately, the unauthorized movement of fish from one public waterway to another is something the governing bodies of these fisheries would prefer to eliminate altogether.

However, with limited resources and hundreds of thousands of acres to police, stopping this practice requires voluntary submission to these regulations by anglers. And even this won’t rectify the effects of the infractions that have already taken place.

As a remedy, conservationists are recommending selective harvesting in this particulate situation in order to help stem or perhaps even reverse the ill effects of the introduction of Alabama Spotted Bass into these fisheries.

Length and creel limits on spotted bass have been reduced and even eliminated all together on certain waterways in an effort to encourage anglers to remove these non-native fish to allow the more desirable species to flourish. This is the most effective way for the public to assist in the rebalancing and preservation of these historic and prized fisheries.

At AntlerBuyers.Com, we strongly believe that antler shed hunters deserve to be well-informed with up-to-date antler prices. That is why we built a tool to deliver the most accurate and current pricing of Elk, Whitetail, Mule, and Moose antlers.

Our data compilation process involves a collection of insights from various stakeholders in the antler industry, including antler buyers, shed hunters, and brokers. To ensure the latest pricing data, our system undergoes frequent updates. The last update was on Nov 8th, 2024.

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What Are Antler Sheds?

Learn More: What Are Antler Sheds?

Antler sheds, often simply referred to as “sheds,” are the discarded antlers of certain animals, primarily those in the deer family, such as deer, moose, elk, caribou, and reindeer. Antlers are the impressive bony structures that grow on the heads of these animals, primarily males. What makes antler sheds intriguing is that they are the natural result of an annual cycle of growth, use, and renewal.

Here’s a breakdown of what antler sheds are and how they come to be:

1. Antler Growth: Antlers start growing in the spring and continue to develop throughout the summer. They are initially covered in a soft layer of skin and fur known as “velvet.” During this growth phase, antlers are rich in blood vessels and sensitive nerve endings, allowing for rapid expansion.

2. Use in Breeding Season: Antlers serve several purposes, including attracting mates and competing with other males during the rut, or breeding season. Male animals use their antlers in combat for dominance and the right to mate with females.

3. Shedding: After the rut, usually in late winter or early spring, antlers begin to weaken at their base. This weakening is a result of hormonal changes and decreasing daylight hours. Eventually, the connection between the antlers and the animal’s skull weakens to the point where the antlers drop off. This natural process is called “shedding.”

Learn More: Does Antler Shedding Hurt?

4. Regrowth: Once the antlers are shed, the animal enters a phase of antler regrowth. New antlers begin to grow, and the cycle repeats itself in preparation for the next breeding season.

5. Antler Sheds: The antler sheds, which are the discarded antlers, can be found in various natural settings, such as forests, fields, and even in backyards. Shed hunters often search for these antler sheds, as they are highly sought after for their aesthetic value and use in various crafts.

What Are Antler Sheds Used For?

Antler sheds serve several important purposes in the natural world. First and foremost, they are a valuable source of minerals for many animals. Small mammals, such as rodents, will often gnaw on antlers to obtain essential nutrients like calcium and phosphorus. Additionally, herbivores like elk and deer themselves may consume antlers during periods of nutrient scarcity, helping them replenish vital minerals after the demanding rutting season.

In the realm of human activities, antler sheds are sought after for various purposes. Many people collect them for their unique beauty and use them in crafts, decor, and jewelry-making. Due to their durability and intricate designs, antler sheds are also used to create knife handles, buttons, and furniture components.

Below are just a few uses of antler sheds:

1. Crafts and Decor: Antler sheds are prized for their unique appearance and are often used in crafting. They can be carved, polished, and shaped into various artistic and decorative items. These include chandeliers, lampshades, candleholders, and wall art. Their natural beauty adds a rustic and elegant touch to interior design.
2. Jewelry: Antler sheds are utilized to create exquisite jewelry pieces. Jewelers carve and shape antlers into pendants, earrings, rings, and bracelets. The organic and earthy aesthetic of antler jewelry appeals to those who appreciate nature-inspired accessories.
3. Knife Handles: Due to their durability and comfortable grip, antler sheds are commonly employed in the production of knife handles. Hunters and outdoor enthusiasts often prefer knives with antler handles for their aesthetic appeal and practicality.
4. Furniture: Antler sheds find their way into furniture design, particularly in rustic and lodge-style pieces. They are used as chair and table legs, drawer pulls, and cabinet handles. Their incorporation adds a touch of the outdoors to interior furnishings.
5. Dog Chews: Antler sheds are also used to create natural and durable dog chews. They are a safer alternative to synthetic toys and can provide hours of entertainment for dogs while helping to maintain their dental health.
6. Cultural and Ritual Objects: In some cultures, antlers have symbolic significance and are used in traditional ceremonies and rituals. They may be incorporated into religious artifacts or cultural regalia, carrying deep cultural meaning.
7. Educational and Scientific Purposes: Antler sheds are valuable for educational and scientific purposes. They can be used in classrooms and wildlife education programs to teach about animal anatomy and behavior. Researchers and biologists may study antler sheds to learn more about the health and habits of wildlife populations.
8. Sculptures and Art: Artists often use antler sheds as a medium for creating sculptures and artwork. The natural curves and textures of antlers can inspire intricate and captivating art pieces.
9. Collectibles: Antler sheds are highly collectible items for those interested in nature and wildlife. Collectors seek sheds with unique characteristics, such as size, shape, or coloration, adding to their personal collections.

Who Buys Antlers Sheds?

Antlers are bought by a variety of individuals and businesses involved in different industries. In the United States and Canada, the primary buyers of antlers are often referred to as “antler buyers.” These individuals specialize in purchasing antler sheds from various sources, including collectors, hunters, and farmers. Antler buyers pay for antlers based on their weight, and they deal with antlers from elk, deer, and moose. Antler buyers journey across the United States and Canada to purchase various types of antlers from sellers.

The uses of antlers by antler buyers typically fall into several categories:

1. Collectors and Enthusiasts: Some people buy antlers as collectibles or for personal enjoyment. They may appreciate the natural beauty of antlers or use them for decorative purposes in their homes or cabins.
2. Craftspeople and Artists: Many artisans and craftsmen buy antlers to create unique and handcrafted items such as chandeliers, knife handles, jewelry, and sculptures. Antlers are highly prized for their aesthetic appeal and versatility in artistic endeavors.
3. Furniture Manufacturers: Antlers are a sought-after material in the furniture industry, especially for crafting rustic or Western-style furniture. They are often used for chair legs, table bases, and other decorative elements.
4. Decor and Home Improvement Businesses: Businesses specializing in home décor and interior design may purchase antlers to incorporate into their products or design projects. Antlers can add a distinctive and natural touch to home interiors.
5. Chinese Medicine and Cosmetic Companies: Antlers are an essential ingredient in traditional Chinese medicine and cosmetics. Chinese medicine practitioners and cosmetic manufacturers often buy antlers for their purported health and beauty benefits.
6. Export to Asia: A significant portion of antlers purchased by antler buyers is exported to countries like Korea and China. These markets have a high demand for antlers, primarily for medicinal and cosmetic purposes.
7. Wholesale and Retail Markets: Some antler buyers act as intermediaries, purchasing antlers from collectors and hunters and then selling them to various businesses in the wholesale or retail market, meeting the diverse needs of their customers.

If you’re considering selling your antlers, take a moment to check our carefully curated list of verified antler buyers. Additionally, don’t forget to consult our ‘Current Antler Price Chart’ for up-to-date pricing information on elk, whitetail, and mule deer antler sheds.

Learn More:

• Dispelling Myths & Misconceptions About Antler Shedding
• What’s The Difference Between Antlers & Horns?

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