Why is Subsonic Ammo Important?

One of the principal elements of ammunition that you should be aware of is muzzle velocity. This is the speed at which the bullet is traveling when it leaves the barrel of your gun, measured in feet per second (ft/s) or meters per second (m/s).

Whether your ammunition is subsonic or supersonic determines to a significant degree how quietly or audibly the bullet travels through the air.

Subsonic vs. Supersonic Ammunition

When you fire a cartridge, the propellant charge burns, generating high-pressure expanding gases that drive the bullet through the barrel. These powder gases are the primary source of a firearm’s report (the sound of the gunshot.)

When you ask, “What is subsonic ammo?” the answer is simple. If the bullet exceeds the speed of sound, thereby breaking the sound barrier, it’s supersonic. If, however, the bullet leaves the muzzle at a speed slower than the speed of sound, it’s subsonic.

Why Does This Matter?

Whether your ammunition is subsonic or supersonic is important because when a bullet breaks the sound barrier, it creates a miniature sonic boom.

You may be familiar with this phenomenon if you’ve ever witnessed a supersonic jet fly overhead and cause a sound similar to a thunderclap. The sonic boom produced by a bullet can’t cause the same level of disruption and is more akin to the crack of a bullwhip — which also creates a sonic boom. When your priority is reducing the report of your firearm to a minimum, this requires the use of subsonic ammunition.

Suppressor Use

The sound of a gunshot can cause permanent hearing loss, even with infrequent exposure, and comprises several variables. Many shooters use sound suppressors, also known as silencers, to reduce the risk to the shooter and bystanders.

If you own or are interested in owning a sound suppressor, the question “What’s subsonic ammo?” is an important one to answer. A suppressor can only moderate the sound of the gunshot at the muzzle by slowing and cooling the powder gases. Once the bullet leaves the suppressor and enters the air, the suppressor’s job is done. To optimize the functionality of a sound suppressor and render your firearm as quiet as possible, you should select ammunition that is reliably subsonic.

Subsonic Ammo

What constitutes subsonic ammunition depends on several factors. The speed of sound is not a fixed value. It varies according to environmental factors, such as ambient temperature and barometric pressure.

The higher the temperature, the higher the speed of sound. Likewise, the colder the temperature, the lower the speed of sound. For example, at 68° F, the speed of sound is approximately 1,125 feet per second. At 32°F, this drops to 1,086 feet per second.

Increasing to 100°F, the speed of sound changes to 1,159 ft/s. The latter speed corresponds to the muzzle velocity of many standard-pressure 9×19mm Parabellum loads using 124-grain bullets. However, all of these velocities are considerably higher than standard pressure .45 ACP using 185-, 200-, and 230-grain bullets.

Subsonic 9mm loads usually substitute heavier bullets — 147-150 grains — to reduce the muzzle velocity to approximately 1,000 ft/s to avoid causing additional noise. The original 230-gr. .45 ACP ball load achieves a muzzle velocity of between 830 and 860 ft/s in an M1911A1 subsonic at all temperatures that a person is likely to face.

Due to fluctuations in the speed of sound according to environmental factors, it’s essential that you choose ammunition that generates muzzle velocities sufficiently below the threshold to take full advantage of sound-suppressor technology. Ammunition uniformity is also worth monitoring.

Cartridges from the same lot do not demonstrate 100%-consistent muzzle velocities from shot to shot. You should account for this lack of uniformity and determine if you can, the extent of the variance from one round to another.

Supersonic Ammo for Suppressors

While supersonic loads will not be as quiet as subsonic loads when using a suppressor, that doesn’t mean that you can’t use them. The primary function of a suppressor is to reduce, not eliminate, the sound of the gunshot. If your priority when using a suppressor is to mask your location, the miniature sonic boom won’t reveal your position to a game animal or adversary — it’s directionless.

Rifles

Rifle ammunition often uses high-velocity loads that far exceed the sound speed to achieve flat trajectories, long-range accuracy, and satisfactory terminal performance. Suppressing rifles poses a special challenge because, unlike handguns, rifles need to shoot far.

In self-loading rifle actions that use gas pressure, modifications to the weapon may be necessary to cycle reliably using comparatively low-pressure subsonic ammunition. In the AR-15 platform, this may include changing the buffer assembly.

An example of a suppressor-optimized rifle caliber is the .300 AAC Blackout. This cartridge is available in both subsonic and supersonic loads for this purpose. In its supersonic form, it’s an intermediate cartridge capable of outperforming the 7.62×39mm Soviet. Its subsonic form delivers heavy bullets, some exceeding 200 grains, at a slow enough speed to match pistol ammo.

​Suppressor-Specific

Whether you need subsonic or supersonic ammunition will depend on whether you intend to run a suppressor. If the answer is no, you can, under most circumstances, simply use standard loads in your firearms — whether it’s subsonic or supersonic will be less critical. In 9mm, most loads are supersonic, whereas most .45 ACP loads are the opposite. The .40 S&W cartridge is available in both, as are many other handgun cartridges.

Protect Your Hearing and Conceal Your Position

Subsonic ammunition can seriously improve your performance with a sound suppressor, whether in a rifle or a handgun. However, if you don’t intend to use a suppressor, the benefits of selecting subsonic ammunition are limited. Your gunshots will be somewhat quieter. But you still need to wear hearing protection.

You can also check:

Ammo 101: Types and Characteristics (See Full Article)

Reliable Ruger 10/22 Ammo

Small game hunting is a time-honored tradition, and it’s the perfect way to get first-time hunters into the woods. Squirrels are everywhere, and they don’t require specialized equipment, scent maskers, hunting blinds or 4 am wake-up calls.

They also don’t require half a day to clean and dress. With a little practice, you can clean and gut a squirrel in under a minute.

Generally, large grey squirrels are hunted for meat. Red squirrels are much smaller, but they still have a substantial amount of meat for such a small body.

I have yet to weigh a squirrel before and after dressing, but I’d guess they dress out to about 60% of live weight. By comparison, woodchucks dress out to less than 30% live weight.

If you’re a small landowner or homesteader, the size of the squirrel isn’t always correlated with the damage they cause. We’ve had a bumper crop of red squirrels this year, and they’ve destroyed more than one crop. When they tore into the side of the house and started noisily defending our attached greenhouse as their territory, they quickly added themselves to the menu.

A few days later, a well-placed shot with a .22 took out this particular squirrel after he left the greenhouse. I’ll be honest, I wasn’t looking forward to cleaning this particular catch. I assumed it’d take forever to skin a squirrel, but a bit of quick internet research showed me differently.

For the most part, we process hogs here on the homestead, and the hides on those beasts are well attached. It takes a lot of work with a knife to tease meat away from the hide.

Squirrels are different, and you can more or less pull the whole pelt off in one clean piece.

I watched a few youtube videos on skinning squirrels in particular, and all of them showed the same technique. Start by removing the feet, and then cut loose the skin at the base of the tail. Step on the tail and pull up.

The whole pelt should come off in one piece, except for the back legs. Those are peeled off after the fact, by hand or with a pair of catfish skinners.

Sounds simple enough. I ended up using a slightly different technique that’s very fast, and once I got the process down it takes about 1 minute to clean and gut a squirrel. I’ve written up the detailed instructions below, but I also made a quick video showing the process at full speed.

The first step is to remove the feet. My 3-year-old daughter wanted to help, so I gave her a pair of scissors to remove the feet, but a knife works well too.

The bones are delicate, and it doesn’t take much pressure to remove them. Since there are so few cuts, you could clean and gut a squirrel start to finish with a small pair of scissors in a pinch.

After the feet are removed, it’s time to make the first (and only) cut into the hide.

Grab the squirrel by the tail and locate the anus.

Take a sharp knife and slice just above the anus to sever the tailbone. The idea is to sever the tailbone, but leave it attached by a flap of squirrel pelt. Cut up along the back short ways so that there’s a good-sized flap of skin.

Be sure to remove any meat attached to the pelt. If you’ve cut into the squirrel hind quarter meat and left it on the pelt, it’ll pull the squirrel apart when you go to strip the squirrel pelt.

The next step is where my instructions differ from the experts. Perhaps it’s because I’m skinning a red squirrel instead of a larger grey squirrel, but “stepping on the tail and pulling up on the body” didn’t skin the squirrel.

All it did was skin the tail. I now have a piece of tail pelt and a fully stripped tailbone.

So I tried again, this time I stepped up higher on the tail, closer to the base.

The whole tail just ripped right off.

That’s been my experience in general with red squirrels, and they don’t require stepping to come apart. A small amount of finger pressure and the whole squirrel suit comes off in one clean piece.

No need to step on a tail, or get out the catfish skinners.

Just slip your fingers into the skin and in around the hips. Pull the base of the tail toward the scruff of the neck.

The skin will easily pull up off the entire back of the squirrel.

When you get up to the shoulders, slip your finger in and help free the upper arms.

Then go down to the back end and slide the squirrel pelt off of the hind legs.

At this point, the only thing holding the squirrel pelt on is the head.

Since this squirrel, I’ve cut off the head at the same time as the feet at the beginning. That allows for a much smoother process.

And there you have it, with just one cut at the base of the tail (and a few more to remove the feet and head), the squirrel is completely skinned.

The next step is gutting, which goes just as quickly.

Make a shallow knife cut down the center of the squirrel, starting just below the rib cage. Avoid puncturing any of the gut.

Pull out the organs, and then be sure to use a finger to remove the organs in the chest cavity. Those include the lungs and heart, and they’re separated from the other guts by the diaphragm.

If you’ve never gutted an animal before you might miss this part because it’s in a separate internal chamber.

Once all the organs are removed, split the pelvis and remove any last bits of intestine hiding within the pubic bone.

Since the squirrel is so small, it’s easy enough to leave it whole. But if you’d like, squirrel meat also breaks down easily into parts.

Dusting the pieces of the squirrel in flour and browning the meat will help retain moisture, just like they do in this squirrel stew with paprika and greens recipe.

Since making this original tutorial, I made a quick video showing the whole process.

After the initial setup, I do talk you through the whole process in just about 1 minute of video time.

Now that you’ve cleaned and gutted a squirrel, how on earth do you cook it? For the most part, a squirrel is cooked like a rabbit. I’ll have a few squirrel recipes up on the blog soon, but here are a few to get you started.

• Cider Braised Squirrel from Bon Appetit
• Braised Squirrel With Bacon, Mushrooms, and Pinot Noir from Field and Stream
• Instant Pot Squirrel
• Buttermilk Fried Squirrel

The beaver is an abundant furbearer throughout most of North America, and trapping is an enjoyable and rewarding activity that can produce high quality fur pelts for mittens or hats, and meat that makes excellent table fare. Beavers are quite easy to locate, and easy to trap once you get them figured out. A wide variety of traps are used to catch beaver. The best beaver trap probably depends on your individual situation. Let’s take a look at the options.

330 Conibear / Bodygrip Trap

The 330 is the most common trap used to catch beaver. It is a large bodygripping trap (also often referred to as a ‘Conibear’) typically measuring 10″x10″. The 330 is usually placed in blind sets along a beaver’s natural travelway. As the beaver moves along a trail or run in the water or at the water’s edge, it travels through the trap opening, trips the trigger and is caught. The 330 is designed to be a quick kill trap, which is very humane and effective. Being such a big and powerful trap, it can be very dangerous if not handled or used properly. Be sure to take precautions, use safety devices where appropriate, and never set these traps in a location where they could catch a domestic animal. Most states require these traps be set in water to avoid catching nontarget animals.

330 traps are made by a variety of manufacturers, including Duke, Bridger, Victor (the owner of the name ‘Conibear’), Belisle, and RBG. The Duke 330’s are the cheapest and provide the best bang for your buck. They are actually a bit smaller than most 330’s, measuring 10″x9″ instead of 10″x10″. Bridger and Duke both make a magnum version of this trap (Bridger’s is 10″x10″, Duke’s is 10″x9″), which closes completely without any gaps, and often results in extra catches by holding beavers that are only caught by the tail, foot or other body part that would allow them to pull out of most other traps. The only thing I don’t like about the magnum style is that I find some of them very difficult to set, particularly the Bridgers. Some adjustment can help with this. The Belisle 330’s are also a magnum type trap but with a different jaw style. They are made of top quality construction, have superior safety catches and triggers, and are the top of the line trap with a correspondingly high price tag. RBG bodygrip traps are unique in that the jaws are shaped in a circle rather than a square, appealing to an animal’s natural tendency to enter round openings.

330’s can catch otter as well, especially if the trigger is configured to cover a large percentage of the jaw opening. They also catch the occasional muskrat that trips the trigger in just the right location while swimming at the right speed.

Although the 330 is by far the most common beaver trap, other sizes can be used to take beavers as well. The 280 bodygrip trap has an opening of 8″x8″. It can catch beavers in the right situation, particularly in areas with very small runs and trails. Smaller beaver are more likely to be caught in 280’s, but I have caught larger beavers in these traps occasionally as well. With the smaller trap it can be a challenge to get the beaver to swim through the opening. Sometimes they’ll swim around the trap instead. Some trappers have good success using 280’s when they are baited as opposed to using them in blind sets. Although beavers can be caught in 220 bodygrip traps, with 7″x7″ jaw spreads, it’s not as common and I wouldn’t recommend it. On the other end of the spectrum, Minnesota Brand makes a huge bodygrip trap, the MB 1216, which measures 12″x16″ and is designed to cover large, wide runs. This can also be a very effective trap, but misses are possible as well, because a beaver can often swim through the large opening without setting the trigger off at all, or setting it off too late to be effectively caught. RBG makes a Big Bear, a 10″x22″ opening trap, that works on the same principal.

TS-85

The TS-85 has been gaining in popularity among beaver trappers for years. This coil spring foothold trap has a massive 8.5 inch jaw spread, which allows for a large target area for the beaver to put its foot and get caught. Foothold traps for beaver are most commonly set as drowning sets in the water near shore. They are designed to catch a beaver as it approaches the shore or enters the water from land. Proper depth and guide sticks, as well as lure and bait placement all play a part in a trapper’s success using footholds for beaver. The TS-85 was designed by professional trapper Tim Sawatzky and has a lot of experience behind it. The trap is easy to set and has several features, including a dogless design with easily adjustable pan tension and high lever lockup on the jaws. It’s a nice trap for the money and my favorite beaver foothold trap.

MB-750

The MB-750 is a beast of a trap. Designed and built by Minnesota Trapline Products, the trap is super strong and sports a 7+ inch jaw spread, smaller than the TS-85 but still pretty large. One unique feature of the trap is that it has a locking mechanism that holds both jaws down, eliminating the loose jaw. Some trapper have issues with the loose jaw being flipped up by a beaver while moving through the set area, causing the trap to fail to connect. The fact that this trap has no loose jaw, however, means that it’s a bit dangerous to set for the inexperienced – your fingers are right in the danger zone when making any adjustments to the pan!

Related: MB-750 Beaver/Otter Trap Review

WCS Pro 7.5

The WCS Pro 7.5 is basically a reboot of the extremely popular CDR trap. The CDR was a 7.5 inch jaw spread beaver trap a simple, effective design. The WCS Pro 7.5 features a solid chain and swivel system, wire levers which make it fast underwater, and the Paws-I-Trip pan system, a very popular feature that I’m a big fan of.

Bridger #5

The Bridger #5 is a work horse of a beaver trap with a simple design and a very reasonable price tag. Minnesota Trapline Products has made some recent improvements to the trap design and construction. It’s a good contender in the beaver foothold trapping game.

No-BS Beaver Extreme

Kendall Obermeir has made some noise in the trapping industry with a new line of No-BS traps that are super impressive. Their ruggedness of design, top quality products and workmanship and unique new features make these traps unique and worth checking out. The Beaver Extreme trap features heat treated steel, a lower pan, dogless design, and the traps are pre-coated from the factory.

Duke 850-FJ

The Duke 850 is the newest beaver trap on the market. The 850-FJ is the closed jaw model, designed for beaver (the offset jaw trap of the same name is designed for wolf and mountain lion). This trap is essentially a larger beefed up version of the Duke 550 or 650 traps, which were almost a carbon copy of the MB-550 coyote trap. The trap features heavy cast steel jaws, heavy duty chain and swivels, four coiled, and the Paws-I-Trip pan system. It’s a nice looking trap, but hasn’t been on the market long enough for me to really get a feel of how it works for different trappers.

So, What’s the Best Beaver Trap?

There are plenty of great options for beaver trappers these days, which makes it tough to determine the best trap. The 330 is the best type of bodygrip/conibear trap for beaver trapping without question, and if I had to choose a ‘best’ brand of 330 I’d go with Belisle. That said, all of them work and catch beavers effectively.

When it comes to foothold traps for beaver, it’s tough to say. The different models vary quite a lot. I prefer the TS-85, but there are advantages and disadvantages of each model, and I haven’t used them all extensively. Regardless of what you choose, if you pick from the list above you’ll have yourself an excellent beaver trap that will effectively catch beavers year after year.

How to Choose the Best Ham Radio Base Station – Buyers Guide

Getting a good ham radio base station goes beyond searching for the top ones on the market. While that’s a great place to start, there are still other important factors to consider.From power output and receiver sensitivity to antenna options and digital enhancements, here’s what you should look out for when purchasing the best ham radio base station.

1. Power Output and Receiver Sensitivity

Make sure your ham radio base station has adequate power output and receiver sensitivity to ensure that you get good reception no matter the conditions. The power output should be between 5 -100 watts, and receiver sensitivity should range from 0.2-1 microvolt.

2. Antenna Options

It’s important to consider the type of antenna your ham radio base station is compatible with as antenna options will determine how well your radio performs. Look for the one with a wide frequency range and good gain value to ensure that you get the best performance from your radio.

3. Digital Enhancements

The latest ham radio base stations come with digital enhancements such as automatic notch filters, dual receivers, and noise blanking capabilities to improve user experience. Look for radio with these features for better performance.

4. Price

Compare the prices of different ham radio base stations to ensure that you get the one that fits your budget without compromising on features, performance, or build quality. Getting the best ham radio base station does not mean that you have to pay the most money and get the most expensive one.You are sure to find a great choice within options ranging from low-cost entry-level radios, that cost little money, to more expensive advanced models, so take your time to decide which one suits your needs best rather than have the price factor drive it.

5. Modes and frequency coverage

This is an important feature, as it determines if the radio meets your requirements in terms of band management. Most modern-day radios have multiple capabilities that allow you to transmit on different frequencies and modes.

6. Band and frequency

Ham radio base stations come in a range of frequencies. A single-band radio means it features one option, mostly the two-meter band on 144-148MHz. Double ones are the most common in the market, and they feature both the 2-meter band and 70 cm band. Others feature three or four frequencies.

7. Ease of operation

When buying your first ham radio base station, you want one that is user-friendly and has a short learning curve to navigate and learn how to use it.Evaluate how complex the controls are. Is it something you can learn through a user manual, or do you need some practice before acquiring your own? As a beginner, you can go for a basic radio and learn your way around it before investing in a complex option.

8. Sound clarity

Ensure you get a ham radio base station that has a clear signal and noise cancellation ability. When using a ham radio either receiving or transmitting, you don’t want distortion or signal interference as it could affect how you pass or receive information.

Some radios have an automatic inbuilt antenna that can shift across frequencies, while some need a manual one fixed within proximity. This can potentially affect its sound clarity if you are not able to fix it well, so do your research before purchasing.

9. Software

Preferably, get a radio that comes with the program software cable in the beginning. Some of the best ham radio base stations come with free software, while for others, you have to get it from a third party at a cost.

Check whether your preferred option software must be plugged into a computer to function or manually programmed, which is more applicable to experienced users.

Evaluate whether you need LAN access or not for your chosen radio software to run. For instance, some radios require a laptop to run the software through a LAN connection.

10. Accessories

Most ham radio base stations come in packages that include accessories such as headsets, microphones, and power supplies. Consider additional accessories you may need before making your purchase so that you can be sure all your requirements are met from the start.

There are an incredible number of broadheads on the market today, so choosing the best mechanical broadhead for your particular setup can be a daunting task.

My hope is that this article will help you narrow down your choices to a manageable number so that you can make a final decision based on your needs and the information at hand.

For hunting whitetail deer, our favorite is the G5 Deadmeat. If you prefer a more streamline 2-blade setup, then the Rage Hypodermic is going to be hard to beat.

If you’re looking specifically for a crossbow broadhead, we have a whole other article for that.

The G5 Deadmeat is our choice for the overall best mechanical broadhead. I am a big fan of G5 Outdoors and their American-made products.

The G5 checks all the boxes that make up a great expandable broadhead: it’s solid steel, features three blades with a 1 1/2-inch cutting diameter for maximum damage, and the Snap lock system keeps the blades in place to prevent pre-deployment.

The blades are rear-deploying, which we feel is a better design because they lose less energy during deployment, and the risk of deflection is less than with forward deploying blades.

In addition to its solid design, we like that the Deadmeat is offered in both 100 and 125 grains for those who may want a heavier setup. The three-pack of broadheads includes a Ballistic Match Point practice tip that matches the flight of the Deadmeat for easy practice without damaging your hunting broadheads.

If you want a solid expandable broadhead that hits hard and creates great blood trails, we highly recommend the G5 Deadmeat!

No one sells more broadheads annually than Rage, and I doubt any on the market kills more deer. That doesn’t necessarily mean they’re the best, but they have done a great job of marketing over the years.

Rage aren’t my favorite, but if I was going to shoot one it would be the standard two-blade Hypodermic.

The chisel tip, combined with the 2-inch cutting diameter should result in decent penetration, plenty of damage, and a short blood trail.

The rear deploying blades should minimize energy loss, and the improved shock collar technology ensures the blades stay in place until impact. We also like that this model Rage has a steel ferrule for maximum strength and durability.

The icing on the cake with these Rage broadheads is that you can often find them at a great price on Amazon. And despite what you may have heard, Rage broadheads are American-made.

I have personally used and killed deer with NAP Killzones. I really can’t say anything negative about them, other than I wished the long, tapered ferrule was steel rather than aluminum.

The Killzones are similar to the Rage discussed above in that they are rear deploying and feature a 2-inch cutting diameter.

What I like about the Killzone is that is features a spring clip design for blade deployment that eliminates the need for any rubber bands, clips or retainers. I also like the hardened trophy tip designed to split bone and get maximum penetration.

If you’re looking for a 2-blade mechanical broadhead with a decent cutting diameter, then the NAP Killzone may be the perfect option.

If it weren’t for the aluminum ferrule, we probably would have designated them as the Best Two Blade Mechanical Broadhead, but for now, the Rage Hypodermic gets that nod. You won’t go wrong with either, though.

While the G5 Deadmeat is our overall pick for best mechanical broadhead, their Megameat is a great option as well.

The Megameat features the same three-blade design, all steel construction, and Snap lock construction to keep the blades in place. The main difference is the larger 2-inch cutting diameter.

The reason we chose the Deadmeat over the Megameat is our belief that a 1.5-inch cutting diameter is ideal for a three-blade broadhead.

If you prefer a larger cutting diameter and have a bow setup that will give you a pass-thru every time, then the Megameat may be the perfect option for you. One thing is for sure, you can’t go wrong with a G5 product.

The Rage 2-Blade Chisel Tip is the second Rage expandable broadhead on our list, and the most popular option in the Rage’s extensive lineup of broadheads.

Like the Hypodermic, the Chisel Tip SC is 100 grain and features a 2-inch cutting diameter. The main difference is in the tip.

The Hypodermic has a longer, tapered tip that is part of the overall one-piece steel ferrule. The Chisel Tip has a unique, twisted chisel tip that is made for breaking through bone.

The reason we ranked this one below the Hypodermic is due to the weaker aluminum ferrule. Overall, though, this is still a great option.

Swhacker mechanical broadheads have a unique blade design with two separate cutting edges.

The smaller wing blades are designed to cut the hide and first set of ribs, with the idea that the main blades will still be razor-sharp once they deploy in the body cavity for maximum damage to internal organs.

In my mind, two weak points on the Swhacker are the aluminum ferrule and the rubber bands used to hold the blades closed in flight. However, I do like the fact that there is little chance of the blades not deploying due to the wing blade design.

And while they may not be my favorite broadhead, it’s hard to argue with a 4.7 out of 5 rating on Amazon. I also have mad respect for Levi Morgan as an archer and a bowhunter, and he is a big believer in Swhacker broadheads.

Our Top 3

Pros and Cons of Expandable Broadheads

Choosing the Perfect Broadhead

All the broadheads discussed above are well known, highly rated, and should fly like your field points if your bow is properly tuned. You can’t go wrong with any of them.

I’ve shot all of them myself with good results, although I now prefer fixed blade broadheads for deer.

If you’re having a hard time narrowing down your choice among these options, here are the most important features to consider:

Broadhead Weight

Most mechanical broadheads are going to come in either 85, 100, 125 or 150 grains, with 100 grains being the most common. Any of these will work effectively. It’s really a matter of your overall arrow or bolt setup as to which weight you choose.

If you’re just going with a standard mid-weight arrow setup, then I’d recommend sticking with a 100 grain broadhead because they are readily available and will get the job done. However, if you’re like me and prefer a heavier arrow setup with a little higher FOC, then a 125 or even a 150 grain may be your best bet.

Even if you like a heavier setup, you can always use a 100 grain mechanical and add weight with a heavier brass insert or insert weight.

Two Blade vs Three Blade Broadheads

In your quest to find the perfect option, you may wonder if you should you shoot a two or three blade broadhead.

First off, let me say that either of those options will get the job done. Like most things in life, there’s tradeoffs to each option.

A two-blade broadhead is going to have less resistance, so it will be more likely to pass thru an animal. The tradeoff to that reduced resistance and increased penetration is less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

Three blade broadheads, on the other hand, should produce a larger wound channel and better blood trail. And while they will have more resistance than a two-blade, as long as you’re shooting a heavy enough arrow setup, and/or enough poundage on your bow, penetration shouldn’t be an issue.

Cutting Diameter

Cutting diameter is another important factor when choosing a broadhead. Similar to the blade number discussion above, cutting diameter will impact penetration and the subsequent blood trail.

A smaller cutting diameter will have less resistance and will be more likely to pass through, but it will also create a smaller wound channel. That smaller hole will me less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

That leaves you having to strike a balance between getting a solid pass-thru shot and still inflicting as much damage as possible for a good, short blood trail.

Other factors in that decision will be your bow setup and overall arrow setup. If you shoot a lower poundage, short draw length, or a light arrow setup, then you will want to err on the side of smaller cutting diameter to ensure a pass-thru shot.

My preference is a 1 1/2-inch to 2-inch maximum cutting diameter from a mechanical broadhead.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the best mechanical broadhead can be challenging. There are tons of options on the market today, and all of them will kill a deer with proper shot placement.

That’s not to say, however, that some options aren’t much better than others. To narrow down your choice, use the factors outlined above, and you should find one or more great options from our list above.

Ultimately, you won’t go wrong with any of the options listed above, but hopefully this article will help you find the best mechanical broadhead for your specific needs.

When it comes to hunting big game or for versatile shooting practices, the choice of cartridge is crucial. In the world of rifles, the debate between the .30-30 Winchester and the .308 Winchester is one that has carried on for decades. Both cartridges have their own set of unique features, advantages, and drawbacks, making it a tricky decision for enthusiasts and hunters alike. In this comprehensive guide, we will dig deep into the comparison between the .30-30 vs .308, including their historical backgrounds, ballistics, effectiveness, and more, helping you make a well-informed decision.

Historical Background of the .30-30 and .308 Cartridges

Understanding the origins of the .30-30 and .308 cartridges is essential in unraveling their characteristics and uses.

.30-30 Winchester: The Pioneer of Modern Rifle Cartridges

The .30-30 Winchester, previously known as .30 WCF (Winchester Center Fire), was introduced in 1895 as the first small-bore, smokeless powder sporting round. It earned its moniker “.30-30” due to the caliber (.30 inches) and the cartridges’ standard black powder load of 30 grains (1.9 g). The .30-30 quickly became popular for its high velocity, accuracy, and effectiveness in hunting, particularly for whitetail deer in the United States.

.308 Winchester: A Modern Classic

Introduced in 1952, the .308 Winchester was designed as a civilian hunting cartridge that also filled the role of a military round. The .308 came almost half a century after the .30-30, and it leveraged advancements in gunpowder and case design to enhance performance. This versatile cartridge is now globally renowned for its accuracy and reliability, and it is actively used for hunting, target shooting, and military snipers.

Ballistics Comparisons Between .30-30 and .308

The comparison of ballistics between the .30-30 and .308 is crucial for understanding their performance in different shooting scenarios.

Projectile Velocity

One of the significant differences between the .30-30 and .308 cartridges is the projectile velocity. The .308 Winchester typically fires bullets between 2,500 to 2,800 feet per second (fps), while the .30-30 Winchester’s range is generally between 2,000 to 2,200 fps. This gives the .308 a clear advantage when it comes to velocity, providing a flatter trajectory and improved long-range accuracy.

Energy

The kinetic energy of a bullet is a critical factor in determining its stopping power and overall performance. The .308 Winchester cartridge, due to its higher velocity, generates significantly more energy than the .30-30 Winchester. A .308 bullet can generate up to 2,600 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle, while a .30-30 bullet produces around 1,900 ft-lbs. This increased energy allows .308 bullets to penetrate deeper, delivering a stronger impact on targets at longer distances.

Recoil

Recoil is an important aspect to consider, especially for hunters who want minimum fatigue during long hours in the field. Generally, the .30-30 cartridges produce a milder recoil compared to the .308 cartridges, making it easier for shooters to follow through shots and maintain their form. The .308 Winchester, with its higher powder charge and projectile weight, generate considerably more recoil, which may not be ideal for novice or recoil-sensitive shooters.

Effectiveness of .30-30 and .308 Cartridges in Hunting

When it comes to hunting, both the .30-30 and .308 cartridges have their unique strengths and weaknesses, making them suitable for specific scenarios.

.30-30 Winchester: The Brush Gun Champion

The .30-30 Winchester is a popular choice for hunters in dense woodlands and considered an ideal “brush gun.” Its low velocity and larger caliber make the .30-30 a perfect match for hunting deer-sized game at short to moderate distances (under 200 yards). The .30-30’s cartridges recoil is mild, making it accessible for novice shooters and hunters who prefer lighter guns like the lever-action rifles. However, its limited trajectory and energy output make it less suitable for long-range hunting or precision shooting.

.308 Winchester: A Versatile Hunter

The .308 Winchester’s excellent ballistics and wide selection of bullet designs make it a versatile cartridge suitable for hunting almost any game in North America. It has a flatter trajectory and higher kinetic energy, capable of taking down larger animals like elk and bears at longer ranges (up to 400 yards). Additionally, the higher velocity and better wind resistance of the .308 bullets ensure a more accurate and ethical shot placement, especially in adverse conditions. For hunters who struggle with the .308’s recoil, investing in a rifle with well-designed recoil mitigation features could be a solution.

Summary: Who Wins the .30-30 vs .308 Debate?

Ultimately, choosing between the .30-30 and .308 cartridges depends on your intended purpose, shooting preferences, and priorities. If your goal is to hunt medium-sized game at short to moderate distances, the .30-30 Winchester provides a reliable, time-tested option with manageable recoil. On the other hand, if you’re seeking versatility, long-range performance, and the ability to hunt a wider range of game, the .308 Winchester undoubtedly reigns supreme. Regardless of your choice, remember that practice, shot placement, and proper bullet selection are vital ingredients for a successful and ethical hunting experience.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a 30-30 as powerful as a 308?

While both cartridges have similar bullet diameters, the .308 is generally considered more powerful due its higher velocity and energy. The .308 Winchester typically has a higher muzzle velocity, greater range, and flatter trajectory compared to the .30-30. The .308 also generates more energy at both the muzzle and downrange, making it more suitable for longer range shots and larger game.

What is the difference between a 308 and a 30 caliber?

The term “.30 caliber” refers to the bullet diameter, which is approximately 7.62mm or .308 inches for both .308 Winchester and .30-30 Winchester cartridges. The primary difference is in their specific cartridge design, with the .308 being a higher pressure round that produces a higher muzzle velocity and more energy than the .30-30. Additionally, the .308 is commonly used in bolt-action and semi-automatic rifles, while the .30-30 is most often used in lever-action rifles.

Is 308 overkill for deer?

While the .308 Winchester is a powerful cartridge and more than capable of taking down deer, it is not considered “overkill.” In fact, the .308 is a popular choice among hunters for its versatility and effectiveness on medium-sized game like deer. The key to a humane and effective kill is to use an appropriate bullet type and place your shot accurately for a quick, clean dispatch of the animal.

Do people still hunt with a 30-30?

Yes, the .30-30 Winchester remains a popular hunting cartridge, especially for those who prefer lever-action rifles. While it may not offer the long-range capabilities or energy of the .308 Winchester, the .30-30 is still an effective cartridge for hunting deer and other medium-sized game at moderate ranges. Its lighter recoil and classic lever-action design are also attractive to many hunters.

Is the .30-30 suitable for long-range shooting?

The .30-30 is generally considered a moderate-range cartridge, with effective distances for hunting usually limited to around 200 yards. Its relatively lower ballistic coefficient and velocity compared to the .308 mean it has a more pronounced bullet drop and less energy at longer ranges. For shots beyond 200 yards, the .308 Winchester is typically a better choice.

Can a .308 rifle use .30-30 ammunition?

No, these two cartridges are not interchangeable. The .308 Winchester and .30-30 Winchester cartridges have different case dimensions and pressure ratings, which means they cannot safely or reliably be fired in a rifle chambered for the other cartridge.

What types of firearms are available in .30-30 and .308?

The .30-30 cartridge is most often associated with lever-action rifles, while the .308 Winchester is commonly chambered in bolt-action and semi-automatic rifles. Although, some single-shot and pump-action rifles are also available for both calibers. It is important to choose a firearm that is specifically chambered for the desired cartridge.

Which cartridge is easier to find and purchase?

Both .308 Winchester and .30-30 Winchester are popular and widely available cartridges. The .308 may be slightly more common due to its widespread use in both hunting and tactical applications, but both types of ammunition can typically be found relatively easily at sporting goods stores and online retailers.

What is the recoil like for the .30-30 compared to the .308?

The .30-30 Winchester typically has less recoil than the .308 Winchester. This is primarily due to its lower pressure and energy compared to the .308. However, the specific recoil experienced by the shooter also depends on factors such as firearm weight and stock design.

Are there significant differences in bullet options for the .30-30 and .308?

Both .308 and .30-30 offer various bullet options for different purposes. However, due to its higher popularity and versatile application, the .308 Winchester generally offers a wider variety of bullet types and weights to choose from, including expanding bullets for hunting and match-grade bullets for precision shooting. The .30-30 Winchester also offers hunting-appropriate bullets, but its selection is somewhat more limited in comparison.

Cibolo Creek Ranch in West Texas was established in the mid-1800s by Milton Faver. Legend has it that Faver fled Missouri for Texas after gunning a man down in a duel. Only 45 miles north of the Mexican border and an hour south of Marfa, the 30,000-acre ranch became an important outpost for trade along the Rio Grande. More than 170 years later, it’s now known as the home of a potential record book deer killed by Texas native John Hughes.

Hughes’ rare deer is a Carmen Mountain whitetail, the resident cervids of the area that were first discovered in Mexico in the 1930s. They are one of four subspecies of the whitetail deer in Texas and a smaller cousin of the Coues deer, which makes the size of Hughes’ 131-inch free-range buck that much more impressive. Some people call Carmen Mountain whitetails “Coues deer,” and Boone and Crockett put them in the same category in its record books.

“On our first morning, we were driving back up in the mountains, and Jasper, our guide, saw what he thought was a monster Coues,” Hughes said. “My son Coleman jumped out, and they advanced on this deer. Then they turned, and they ran back to the truck. The buck was so big Jasper wanted Coleman to have a super solid rest, and so he put him on the truck.”

The rare deer was on the move and quickly outrunning the range of his son’s rifle.

Related: World Record Whitetail: The Top 5 Typical Archery Bucks

“He had his .308 suppressed Remington 700, a rifle he’s had since he was 8 years old. That deer was at 200 yards; can’t get a shot. Deer’s at 400 yards, and I’m like, “Bro, you’ve got to chuck that rifle. Grab Jasper’s .28 Nosler.”

Coleman took his shot at 600 yards and missed just right off the front shoulder. The deer disappeared.

The next morning, Hughes and his son headed out on their own with Jasper out of commission from salmonella poisoning. They located a giant aoudad, and Coleman was able to put a perfect shot on it.

“This thing was an absolute beast,” Hughes said. “Sheep life is pretty rough. They live in very rough places, and they fight for their [mates], you know, unlike most other animals. This guy was probably a rut away from being a one-horned sheep. His right horn was just about broke off.”

Killing the Aoudad was the first of a couple of high points for Coleman on this hunt. He was also able to ring the bell on a heavy mule deer later in the trip.

After they packed to sheep out, the men headed back to the spot they last saw the big deer.

Related: 5 Sleeper Public Land Whitetail States You Don’t Want to Miss in October

“We went right back up in there, and there he was,” Hughes said. “I didn’t know it was that same deer since I didn’t actually see him yesterday. I was like, ‘Holy crap, that’s a 130-inch whitetail buck.’ Now, in South Texas, we would cull it, you know, two years old and not a desirable whitetail for what we’re used to in South Texas. So we just watched it meander off.”

Jim Breck owns High West Outfitter, the operation Hughes and his son were hunting with. He called Hughes to see how they were making out without their guide. After hearing about the deer, Breck told Hughes that there are no whitetails in the area and that he was describing a potential world record Carmen Mountain whitetail.

Breck grabbed their sick guide and drove out to where the Hughes’ were posted up.

“I’m 700 yards away, so I set up with Jasper’s Nosler,” Hughes said. “All I can see is his head and his antlers. He’s tucked himself in up under a cliff with a bunch of logs and trees in front of him.”

The men had been watching the buck for an hour, so they knew he was not in a hurry to move. They decided to touch off a round into the cliffs above the deer to see if they could roust him.

“He scooted out, maybe took about three or four steps,” he said. “Just enough that I could make a shoulder. My first shot missed to the right just like Coleman did. The winds up there took my second shot just left.”

His third shot found the buck’s shoulder, and the animal dropped where it stood.

Related: Antlered Doe: Missouri Hunter Shoots Huge, Rare 16-Pointer

“I didn’t realize how big it was till we got up there. Like, holy shit,” he said.

A Carmen Mountain whitetail in the 90- to 100-inch range is considered typical in size, but anything beyond that 100-inch mark is world-class.

The men green-scored the stud at 131 inches, which is only 7/8-inch shy of the No. 5 typical Boone and Crockett record Coues deer (again, B&C doesn’t distinguish between Carmen Mountain whitetail and Coues deer). It’s also a shoo-in for the Safari Club International (SCI) Top 10; SCI is the only club that recognizes and ranks the Carmen Mountain whitetail as a category separate from Coues.It was a rare deer indeed.

With only 128 Carmel Mountain whitetails total in the SCI record books, Hughes is in some pretty exclusive company. Of course, the record book buzz is something he could take or leave.

“Personally, I don’t give a rat’s ass,” Hughes said. “I guess is a big deal just because there’s not very many big Coues deer killed anymore. For me, hunting with my son and having the story means more.”

Read Next: Texas Elk Hunting is Brimming With Free-Range Opportunities

The whip-hand dominance of the .223 Rem. has littered the boneyard with nearly all other 22-cal. center-fire cartridges; however, the .221 Rem. Fireball remains just outside that acre’s gate because informed handloaders look at it from a different perspective than those who see it as merely a short .223. Besides, you have to like a cartridge with a cool-sounding name such as “Fireball.”

The .221 case is a close copy of the .223. Both cases have the same head diameter, shoulder angle, neck length and maximum average pressure (MAP) of 55,000 p.s.i. The only difference is that the .221 is shortened 0.3674 inches in the body. That reduces its propellant capacity to 60 percent of the .223s. But loaded with the proper propellants, the .221 produces about 90 percent of the .223’s velocity with bullets weighing up to 55 grains.

Beginnings

This short cartridge was initially chambered in Remington’s XP-100 bolt-action single-shot handgun in 1963. From the XP-100’s original 10.75-inch barrel, the .221 fired 50-grain bullets at about 2600 f.p.s. The XP-100’s barrel was eventually lengthened to 14.5 inches and chambered in other .22-cal. cartridges such as the .223 Rem. and .22-250 Rem. The .221 chambering lasted until 1985. For a while Thompson/Center chambered the cartridge in its Contender single-shot handgun. The .221 languished in neglect until 2002 when Remington gave it a face-lift as a rifle cartridge in its Model 700 Classic rifle. The last year Remington chambered the cartridge was in 2007 in the Model 700 Light Varmint Stainless Fluted rifle.

The CZ 527 American and the Model 21 from Cooper Firearms of Montana are the only rifles currently chambered in .221 by major manufacturers. The Cooper folks say the .221 is nowhere near as popular as the .204 Ruger or .223 Rem. But the cartridge has a following, and they sell about as many rifles chambered in the Fireball as they do rifles in .22 Hornet.

A Cooper Model 21 Montana Varminter was used to shoot the loads for this article. The Varminter is intended for shooting from a rest, with style. The oil finish highlights the running grain of its AA+ claro walnut stock with a beavertail fore-end. The Model 21 is a single-shot. Pushing forward the three-lug bolt picks up a cartridge from the loading pan, feeding it into the chamber. The sample rifle’s trigger has a perfect 2-pound pull.

Handloading

The Fireball case is only a smidgen larger than the Hornet case. The 3 to 8 grains of additional propellant the .221 holds, though, result in a gain of 600 f.p.s. over the Hornet with bullets of the same weight. Care should be taken when developing loads for a cartridge as small as the .221 because a big increase in velocity and pressure results from a small increase in propellant. From the Cooper Model 21’s 24-inch barrel, Nosler 35-grain Ballistic Tip Lead Free bullets had an average velocity of 2752 f.p.s. powered by 17.0 grains of H4198. Stepping up the propellant to 17.5 grains increased velocity to 2949 f.p.s. An additional 0.5 grain jumped speed to 3034 f.p.s, and 18.5 grains upped the velocity to 3,296 f.p.s.

Relatively fast-burning propellants such as Hodgdon’s H4198, Lil’Gun and Accurate 1680 are a key to loading the .221. Lil’Gun is a great propellant for the Fireball shooting lightweight bullets. From two other .221 rifles, Lil’Gun fired Berger 30-grain Varmint bullets at nearly 3900 f.p.s. and Nosler 35-grain Ballistic Tip Lead-Free bullets at 3700 f.p.s. From the Cooper Varminter, Hornady 40-grain V-MAX bullets reached 3270 f.p.s. with 15.0 grains of the propellant and 3460 f.p.s. with 15.5 grains.

Relatively slow-burning propellants provide a more sustained push to 50-grain and heavier bullets. Lil’Gun and A1680 are still good choices as well as H335, H4198, N130 and Reloder 7.

Heavier bullets also provide more uniform velocities. The 30- and 35-grain bullets had extreme spreads of velocity of up to 200 f.p.s with several different propellants. But spreads shrank to less than 50 f.p.s. with 40-grain bullets and down to 10 f.p.s. with 50 and 55-grain bullets.

How close to seat bullets to rifling lands for the best accuracy is a matter of hundredths of an inch. Bullets close to, or even in contact with, the rifling are thought to function with improved accuracy because they make less of an unsupported “jump” before engaging it. That minimizes the chance of bullets entering the rifling at an angle and flying into left field. Just as important, though, bullets seated straight with the centerline of case necks align with the chamber throat to ensure they enter the rifling straight, even if they have to move a ways to engage it.

The .221’s maximum cartridge length is 1.830″. However, Nosler 55-grain Ballistic Tips just touch the rifling lands of the Cooper .221 with a cartridge length of 1.873 inches. The Cooper rifle has no magazine, so that long cartridge length fits fine. A smidgen shorter cartridge length, though, ensures easy extraction of an unfired cartridge from the chamber. Also, pressures tend to be greater when bullets do not have a bit of a running start before contacting rifling.

To determine if accuracy was better with bullets seated just short of the rifling compared to seated back a ways, I loaded 10 cartridges each with the Ballistic Tips seated with an overall length of 1.850 inches and 1.830 inches. Before shooting I ran the cartridges through a Hornady Lock-N-Load Concentricity Tool. The majority of the bullets were absolutely true with the case necks but a few varied up to 0.002 inches. The longer cartridges averaged 0.96 inches for two, five-shot groups. The shorter cartridges averaged 0.95 inches.

Shooting

After firing 20 shots at a fast pace, the Cooper’s barrel was lukewarm and the front third remained cold. Even though the temperature was in the 20s, heat rising from the barrel created barely any mirage through the Leupold 14X riflescope. Recoil was so mild that the crosshairs scarcely jumped off target, and often I saw bullet holes appear instantly. The Cooper Varminter shot well. It probably would have shot even tighter groups, but there was the shiver factor to consider from the cold temperatures. It helped, though, thinking about warm spring days ahead and green fields of ground squirrels and prairie dogs.