It doesn’t matter if you’re talking about 200-pound alligator gar in a Texas reservoir, a 3-foot longnose in a Minnesota river, or a 5-pound shortnose in an Arkansas slough-they’re all first-class sportfish. They’re all willing biters, too, often revealing their location during summer by rolling on the surface to gulp air. They’re also powerful fighters who will launch their muscular armor-plated body into the air when hooked. The problem with gar is their tooth-filled mouth and habit of running long distances with a bait before swallowing it. This makes them difficult to hook and land with traditional rigs. But a handful of modified rigs will catch any species of gar wherever they swim.

Hooks

Gar lack any appreciable amount of flesh in their mouth, making hookups with large single hooks difficult. Small sharp treble hooks penetrate faster and the additional hook points increase your chance of a good set. Lip hook a baitfish with a #6 to #2 treble hook on a set or float rig. Gar often grab the bait sideways and slowly swim off. Wait until the fish stops and starts to swallow the bait. When he starts to run again, set the hook firmly. Quick-strike rigs and lures with multiple treble hooks increase your chance of a hookup without risking injury caused by swallowed hooks.

Snares

Wire snares like those used to catch rabbits may be the most effective gar rig of all. Make a snare by wrapping one end of a 2-foot piece of stainless steel wire around a heavy barrel swivel. Run the free end of the wire through the back of a lively baitfish, just below the dorsal fin. Swing the free end back toward the swivel and form a loose loop that slides easily on the leader. Tie your main line to the swivel and cast the rig onto a shallow flat. When a gar grabs the bait, a firm pull will tighten the snare around its beak.

Ropes

Versatile lures and flies also can be fashioned from strands of frayed nylon rope. Cut a 3- to 6-inch piece of 3/8-inch nylon rope, and thread it onto the shank of a hook, jighead, or spinnerbait as you would a plastic worm. Use a flame to fuse the rope to the hook shank, then wrap over the melted rope with strong thread or braided line. Cover the thread wraps with a couple coats of epoxy to increase the lure’s durability. Unravel the nylon strands the the base of the head, and you’re ready to fish. When a gar strikes, the lure becomes tangled in its teeth and around its snout.

Jugs

Jugs, or pop-ups as they’re called in the south, are similar to the juglines used by catfishermen. They consist of a 4-foot section of PVC pipe or a sturdy branch tied to 2-liter soda bottle. One end of a 2-foot wire leader is attached to the branch, the other to a large study hook baited with livebait or cutbait. Fleets of jugs are drifted across shallow flats at night. When a fish begins its second run, indicating it has swallowed the bait, the angler grabs the limb and attempts to haul the fish aboard.

fPorcupines are rodents, and the name porcupine comes from Middle French porc espin, meaning “spined pig.”

There are two families of porcupines: Old World and New World porcupines. The old world porcupines are found in Africa, Asia, and South Europe, while the new world porcupines are found in North, Central, and South America.

This article provides a detailed explanation of what porcupines eat and where they live, among other things:

Facts About Porcupines

There are several interesting facts about porcupines. Here are some of them:

Habitat

Porcupines can be found in different locations depending on the species. For example, the North American porcupines live in coniferous and mixed forest habitats in Canada, Northern Mexico, and the North Eastern United States.

These animals are nocturnal and spend most of their time on trees. However, they will come down to the ground to look for food or during the winter season when there is little foliage on trees.

The Old World porcupines live in terrestrial regions such as deserts, hillsides, and woodlands. Some of these porcupines are excellent swimmers and climbers and spend most of their time in trees.

Characteristics

Porcupines are medium to large-sized animals. They have a round body with short legs and a long tail. The Old World porcupines are larger than the New World porcupines, with some weighing up to 77 pounds, while the North American porcupine is smaller, weighing between 12-35 pounds.

Porcupines have black or dark brown fur. The quills on their backs are stiff and sharp, and they use them for self-defense and to deter predators.

Reproduction

Porcupines are generally solitary animals. The male and female come together only during the breeding season between mid-summer and early fall to mate.

The gestation period for porcupines is about seven months, giving birth to one or two offspring at a time. The young ones are born with soft quills that harden after a few days.

The mother takes care of the young for about 18 months until they are ready to fend for themselves.

The Old World Porcupines VS. The New World Porcupines

In several ways, the old world porcupines(Family Hystricidae) are different from the new world porcupines(Family Erethizontidae). We discuss how the two porcupines differ below.

Old World Porcupines

There are 11 species of old-world porcupines that are classified into eight genera. These porcupines are found in Africa, Asia, and Southern Europe.

The Old World porcupines have longer and thinner quills than the new world porcupines. The quills on their backs are used for self-defense and to deter predators. These porcupines are generally larger than the new world porcupines, with some weighing up to 77 pounds.

New World Porcupines

There are 18 new world porcupines species classified into three genera. These porcupines are found in North America, Central, and South America.

The New World porcupines have shorter and thicker quills than the old world porcupines. The quills on their backs are also used for self-defense and to deter predators.

These porcupines are generally smaller than in the old world, with some weighing up to 35 pounds.

What Do Porcupines Eat?

Porcupines are herbivorous animals, and their diet consists of plants, fruits, and vegetables. They use their sharp incisors to bite off pieces of bark from trees. They also eat the leaves, stems, and roots of plants.

In the wild, porcupines eat just about anything they can find, including insects, rodents, and small reptiles. However, in captivity, their diet is much more regulated and consists mainly of plants and vegetables.

But while the diet of porcupines is general and may seem the same all through, they vary depending on the season and the types of porcupines. Here is a breakdown of what different porcupines eat:

• North American Porcupines

The North American porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of plants, fruits, and vegetables such as apples, bananas, sweet potatoes, and carrots. They also eat the leaves, stems, and roots of plants.

• Brazilian Porcupines

The Brazilian porcupine is omnivorous and will eat both plants and animals. Their diet consists of fruits, vegetables, insects, rodents, and small reptiles. They are expert climbers, which comes in handy when looking for food, allowing them to feed on a wide range of plants and small animals.

• African Brush-tailed Porcupines

The brush-tailed porcupines are one of the largest in Africa and can weigh up to 77 pounds. They are nocturnal animals and spend most of their time on trees. The African brush tail porcupine is a herbivorous animal whose diet consists of plants, fruits, and vegetables. They are also known to feed on animal carcasses.

• Asiatic Brush-tailed Porcupines

These porcupines are fairly small compared to other old-world porcupines but larger than the new world porcupines. They are primarily herbivorous and feed on fruits, grubs, and bamboo shoots. However, they can also feed on insects and scavenge on bones and hones.

• Sumatran Porcupines

These porcupines occupy the Surmattan region, which is the island of Sumatra. They are the largest porcupines in Asia and can weigh up to 60 pounds. The Sumatran porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of plants, sugarcane, melons, and bean. However, they will also eat insects, and other animal remains to get sodium and potassium.

• South African Porcupines

The South-African porcupines, or the Cape porcupines, are the largest of all the porcupines. They can weigh up to 110 pounds, and their quills can be up to 13 inches long. The South-African porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of plants, fruits, roots, bulbs, and vegetables. However, they will also eat carrions.

• Mexican Dwarf Hairy Porcupines

The Mexican dwarf hairy porcupine is one of the smallest species of porcupines. They weigh between two to four pounds and are found in Mexico, Central America, and South America. The Mexican dwarf hairy porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of sweet potatoes, tree leaves, carrots, and bulbs.

• Bristle-spined Porcupines

The bristle-spined porcupine is found in Central and South America. They are nocturnal animals and spend most of their time on trees. The bristle-spined porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of plants, fruits, vegetables, peanuts, and insects. However, their favorite diet is cocoa nuts, and they prefer to live in areas close to cocoa plantations.

• Thick-spined Porcupines

The thick-spined porcupine is found in Africa and Indo-Malayan Asia. They are nocturnal animals and spend most of their time on trees. The thick-spined porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of plants, fruits, vegetables, and insects. However, they are not good climbers and prefer to eat fallen fruits.

Porcupines’ Diet During Seasons

Porcupines are mostly herbivorous animals, but there are some exceptions. Depending on the season, porcupines will change their diet to include more fruits and vegetables or meat.

In the winter, porcupines will eat more bark and twigs because they are looking for food that is high in calories. In the summer, porcupines will eat more fruits and vegetables because they are looking for food that is high in water content.

What Animals Kills Porcupines?

Other animals do not often kill porcupines, but there are some exceptions. This is because the quills on a porcupine can be up to 13 inches long and are very sharp, forming one of the best defenses in any animal.

One of the most common predators of porcupines is the African leopard. Other predators include the cheetah, lions, and hyenas. There have also been spotting of quills on foxes, wolves, wolverines, bobcats, fishers, lynxes, coyotes, owls, and even dogs.

Humans also kill porcupines for their meat and quills. Porcupine meat is considered a delicacy in some cultures, and the quills are used to make porcupine quill art.

Are Porcupines Good For Anything?

Porcupines have many benefits. They are a food source for many animals and provide nutrition to the animals that feed on them. Additionally, they have quills that are used to make porcupine quill art. Porcupines are also known to eat the ticks off of other animals, which helps to control the spread of Lyme disease.

Moreover, porcupines can help the forest ecosystem by eating the bark of trees. This helps to control the growth of trees and prevents forest fires. They also help in pruning trees which allows new growth. The best part is that they aren’t as problematic as other wild animals and aren’t predators.

Final Words

Porcupines are often misunderstood as dangerous because of their quills. However, they are gentle animals that mostly keep to themselves. They are interesting creatures with a surprising diet and many benefits to the ecosystem. They eat leaves, small insects, fruits, and vegetables depending on the season.

Need to catch dinner in the wilderness? Go set a deadfall trap.

Trapping is one of the oldest ways to get food in the wild. People have been using traps to catch small to medium-sized game in between major hunts. Learning how to set a few good traps in ideal locations can cut your chances of starving significantly.

Primitive traps like the deadfall are especially popular among survivalists and bushcraft enthusiasts because they’re straightforward and relatively easy to construct. They also come in different variations that can fit your individual situation and skill level.

Need to brush up on your primitive trapping skills? Read on for easy-to-follow tutorials and tips:

Primitive Trapping Basics

Any prepper or bushcrafter worth his salt should know how to trap animals for food, fur, and other purposes. Actively hunting for game is always best for fresh meat, but trapping can save you a lot of time and energy, especially if you find yourself in a survival situation with little to no modern tools.

Before we look into the ins and outs of making deadfall trap configurations, here’s a quick refresher on the basics of trapping:

What are you trapping?

Your trap depends on the size and species of animal. As a trapper, you have to know what type of animals frequent the area. Watch out for tracks and pawprints, disturbed vegetation, and droppings to identify the critters.

Deadfall traps, in particular, are great for catching small to medium animals like rodents, squirrels, and prairie dogs.

Finding the perfect location to set your trap

Location is crucial when setting traps. Once you’ve identified the kind of animal you want to capture, you can now zero in on where to put your trap. Construct it near the animal’s habitat (outside its burrow or hiding place), or in places where it usually gets food and water.

Set the trap to make it look as natural as possible by covering it with soil or leaves. Unlike humans, animals have a very keen sense of smell, so remove or mask any human trace by wearing gloves and handling the trap as little as possible.

Skills needed in trapping

As mentioned earlier, you have to know what type of animals live in the area, so a sharp set of tracking skills will come in handy when making traps. Trapping requires other bushcraft basics like whittling, making cordage, and tying effective knots, as in the case of most deadfall traps. And, of course, field dressing and bushcraft cooking skills will ultimately come in handy when it’s time to eat.

What’s the best type of bait to use in trapping?

Not all baits are created equal. Use one that will attract your target animal. Most small mammals like rats and squirrels love to munch on nuts, seeds, and fruit, so use those when baiting your deadfall trap.

Safety precautions to follow

Constructing deadfall traps can seriously hurt you if you’re not careful. When setting one up, put a temporary support rock to hold up the deadfall weight. This way, you don’t accidentally activate the trap and crush your fingers.

Local trapping regulations

Some areas regulate or prohibit trapping animals for food or other purposes, so check local regulations before setting out traps.

A Closer Look at the Deadfall Trap

People have been using the deadfall trap since the dawn of civilization to catch a meal—and it remains one of the best primitive traps to this day.

The reason?

Deadfall traps simply work.

This primitive trapping mechanism uses a heavy rock or logs propped up by sticks to capture prey. Once the animal takes the bait, the sticks collapse, and the animal gets instantly crushed beneath the weight. It’s an effective and straightforward way to catch a meal, especially if you don’t have modern supplies at your disposal.

Types of Deadfall Traps

There are three main types of deadfall traps, namely the Paiute, Figure 4, and Split Stick. You’ll find detailed tutorials of these variations below:

Paiute Deadfall Trap

The Paiute deadfall trap is believed to have been invented by the Native American tribe of the same name. It’s also arguably the most popular among the deadfall trap varieties since it’s easy to set up and has a very sensitive trigger that allows you to catch prey in a snap.

The Paiute deadfall trap uses a total of 4 wood components:

• One long diagonal stick to support the deadfall weight
• One shorter vertical stick that holds up the diagonal portion
• One small twig that serves as a trigger stick
• A small piece of wood that will act as a toggle

What sets it apart from other configurations is that it uses cordage to hold these components together. You can use any available cordage, including dry fibers from plants like milkweed or stinging nettle.

In the video above, you’ll see a detailed tutorial on how to build an effective Paiute deadfall trap using primitive materials and methods.

Traps like these usually take a bit of trial and error before you get it right. Consider vital factors like the angle of the rock, the height of the trap, or the placement of the bait. Adjusting any of these can significantly improve your chances of catching the target animal.

Figure 4 Deadfall Trap

It’s pretty safe to say that the Figure 4 deadfall trap is the Paiute’s less trigger-sensitive cousin. Many find the Figure 4 quite challenging since it needs a sharp set of carving and whittling skills. It also needs some time to master and doesn’t deploy as quickly as the Paiute.

Still, when made correctly, it does a decent enough job, so knowing how to make an effective Figure 4 should still be part of your skills arsenal.

To construct a Figure 4 deadfall trap, you need three sticks:

• 1 long diagonal stick that holds up the deadfall weight
• 1 horizontal stick that goes near the base
• 1 shorter vertical stick that holds everything together and acts as the trigger

All three sticks should be straight and of roughly the same diameter.

Notice that instead of cordage, the Figure 4 deadfall trap uses notches carved into the sticks to hold the entire structure together.

This is the tricky part: each notch should be carved just right and must fit well with each other to support the trap. It’s like making your own puzzle pieces. Carving notches takes considerable skill, so if it’s your first time making this trap, be patient.

The Figure also needs a balance between strength and sensitivity. The trigger, located at the base of the trap, should be strong enough to support the trap’s weight but sensitive enough to deploy quickly.

Because the Figure 4 deadfall trap doesn’t deploy as easily as the Paiute, it’s important to create as many traps as possible to increase your chances of catching food.

Split Stick Deadfall Trap

The split-stick deadfall trap is basically a cross between the Paiute and the Figure 4. It’s got a very sensitive trigger like the Paiute but, similar to the Figure 4, it doesn’t use any cordage.

The principle behind this trap is quite simple.

Take a long stick and cut it roughly in half. Next, carve notches on their meeting points so they loosely fit together. Make a larger notch in one of the sticks to make the trap more sensitive. Then put a small, thin stick in between these two components. This will serve as your trigger mechanism. Once the target animal takes the bait, the entire structure collapses, and the animal gets crushed beneath the deadfall weight.

It’s as easy as that.

Perhaps the only disadvantage to the split stick deadfall trap is that it could easily collapse due to other factors, like the wind. Nonetheless, it’s a good way to practice your bushcraft trapping skills and also catch an animal in the process.

Quick Facts About Deadfall Traps

To sum things up, here are the things you should know about deadfall traps:

• Deadfall traps are ideal for small- to medium-sized animals such as rabbits and squirrels.
• The three main types of deadfall traps are the Paiute, Figure 4, and Split Stick traps.
• Depending on where you live, rigging up a deadfall trap may be illegal, so check local regulations first.
• Be careful when you’re setting up a deadfall trap. It can seriously harm your hands if you accidentally trigger it.

Final Thoughts

People have been trapping since the beginning of civilization. Although most modern traps are now manufactured, nothing beats knowing how to make primitive traps for prepping and survival.

These traps will be indispensable when you find yourself in a survival situation with little to no modern tools at your disposal.

Deadfall traps require no more than some sticks and a flat slab of rock to make. The Paiute, Figure 4, and Bait Stick deadfall traps are relatively easy to construct and are effective in catching small to medium-sized animals. They’re a good fail-safe in case you can’t catch a meal when hunting or fishing.

Continue practicing your deadfall trap-making skills and you’ll be able to catch small game for dinner in no time.

By popular demand, today’s article is the best deer hunting bows. There are a lot of options out there. Some are fantastic—but others fall short of the mark.

We’ll start with a quick “buying guide” of features you’ll want to keep in mind when selecting a bow, then we’ll jump into our reviews that inspect a range of bows for hunters of all skill levels. We’ll finish off with what we consider to be the best-performing deer hunting bow overall.

Deer Hunting Bows: Quick Picks

Here’s a quick list of the bows we’ll discuss:

TIDEWE Compound Bow: Thanks to its adjustable draw weight and high let-off, it’s a good choice for beginners and experts alike.

PSE Archery Mini Burner RTS Compound Bow Package: We suggest this model for youth who need a smaller bow but still want enough power to hunt with once they learn the ropes.

Diamond Archery Edge 320: With blistering arrow speeds and a quiet shot, this compound bow is a good way to take down that elusive trophy buck.

Bear Archery Cruzer G2: One of our longtime favorites, this Bear model’s lightweight design and adjustable draw weight makes it hard to beat.

Diamond by Bowtech Deploy SB R.A.K.: Our new all-around favorite, this bow has incredible power while still being lightweight and consistent.

How to Select the Right Deer Hunting Bow for You

If you’re new to bowhunting, here are the factors you’ll want to consider when selecting a bow for deer hunting. We’ll start with the first—and perhaps most important—question:

Choose Your Bow: Recurve vs. Compound

This is your first decision when you’re selecting a bow to hunt deer with: do you want a recurve bow or a compound bow?

Generally speaking, more hunters use compound bows to hunt game, and that’s probably a good thing: they’re easier to draw, easier to aim, and they’re usually a lot more powerful than recurve bows. As a result, you can take accurate lethal shots at longer distances and with less practice beforehand. For all these reasons, if you’re new to hunting and looking for a bow, we’d suggest you start with a compound bow.

If you are going to choose a recurve, though, you’ll have fewer features to consider—recurve bows are far simpler than compound bows, and if you have a well-made, quality bow, the main feature you need to think about are the draw weight, partly because in most states, you’ll need a bow with a draw weight of 40 pounds or more hunt game like whitetail deer. You may also consider a bow sight, though many recurve hunters forgo this accessory altogether since they prefer a more bowhunting experience anyway.

A high quality bow with a draw weight of 40 pounds or more and a bow sight (or not!) is all you need to hunt deer with a recurve—but again, if you’re just starting out, we’d urge you to use a compound bow to hunt because they’re easier for new hunters to use, and you’re more likely to put down an animal rather than just wounding it, which is more ethical.

Bottom Line: If you’re new to bowhunting deer, it’s usually better to go with a compound bow, rather than a recurve bow.

For those opting to use a compound bow to hunt deer, here are the features you need to consider:

Sound Quality (The Less, the Better)

Deer are light and agile on their feet, and if they hear a sound they don’t like, they bound away instantly. That’s true for mule deer out west, but it’s especially true for whitetail deer out east.

The first time you see it, you’ll be amazed—aside from being quick, they have excellent hearing.

Consequently, the amount of sound that your bow makes is important. Luckily, this is one of those features that manufacturers have really worked on over the last decade or two—probably because deer hunters kept telling them, “THE MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU CAN DO IS MAKE A QUIET BOW”—and we’re happy to announce that all of the bows we review in this post are quiet enough for hunting deer.

Keep in mind that no bow is totally soundless, and there will always be some noise when you release your bowstring and let an arrow fly. That said, the only time your bow may make a loud “twang” or “thwack” sound is if it is improperly tuned (and your local archery shop or range can help you with that), or if there’s a problem with your draw. One good work-around is a string silencer, which can gobble up a lot of the vibration from your string and dramatically quiet things down. We like Limbsaver Dampeners.

Bottom Line: Bows are a lot quieter than they used to be, but higher-end bows are usually quietest; if you’re having noise problems, a sound dampener may do the trick.

Important: Feet per Second (FPS)

Over the last decade or so, you might have noticed that all of the big bow manufacturers have been knocking themselves out to make faster bows. There are a couple main reasons for that.

First, due to physics, for the same arrow weight, a faster arrow speed equates to more kinetic energy on impact. This makes your shots more lethal and more capable of punching through tough tissue like cartilage and even bone.

More importantly, faster arrows mean more accuracy. That’s because they can travel farther for a given amount of drop, so over a fixed distance, say 20 yards, their trajectory will be straighter. That makes it easier to aim, and it increases your accurate range so you have more opportunities when hunting.

Most compound bows have a range of arrow speed from 270 fps on the lower side to about 330 fps on the higher side. You might imagine the arrow speed is vitally important, but it’s not the end-all feature to consider.

For example, if you’re hunting from a tree stand at short range, less than 20 yards, an increase in arrow speed is going to provide a marginal improvement in accuracy. Nonetheless, many hunters sacrifice other important features just to get higher arrow speed.

Arrow speed is more important when hunting long distances since it increases accuracy over a longer range. For this reason, still hunters hunting elk out west may find arrow speed to be their primary concern, but casual whitetail hunters should balance it with other aspects of bowhunting.

Bottom Line: Arrow speed measured in fps is important, especially if you’re hunting over long distances. Nevertheless, you should not prioritize it over other important features.

A Crucial Tool: The Bow Sight

We mentioned traditional archers above, those who shoot game without the use of bow sight. That’s an incredible ability, and it’s important to remember it’s a SKILL. It takes years of practice to aim at a target with the naked eye and hit it. For the rest of us, particularly beginners, that’s where bow sights come in.

Most compounds come with a basic bow sight included, and for the most part, a basic bow sight will do you just fine. As long as it has three pins, you should be able to adjust it to aim at targets up to about 40 yards away, and most hunters seem to set their three-pin bow sights at 20 yards, 30 yards and 40 yards. That’s especially true on the east coast where deer hunting is done in dense forest, so things are a little more “up close and personal.”

If, however, you’re going to be aiming at targets more than 40 yards away—and that happens frequently in the broader expanses of land in the western United States—then it can make sense to get a five-pin bow sight, and set your pins at 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 yards. Remember, though, if you’re shooting at a deer 30 yards away or farther, you want to be very confident in your abilities. There’s a lot that can go wrong aiming at a target that far away, and it’s not ethical to take a shot at that distance if you’re not sure you’re going to hit it.

Bottom Line: A good bow sight is important, and for close-range hunting, a 3-pin sight is usually fine. For longer-range shooting, a 5-pin sight is usually a better idea. Also, remember—if you find a bow you really like but don’t like the bow sight, you can usually replace it with one that you like more.

Axle-to-Axle Length: Not as Important as It Used to Be

For the longest time, bow manufacturers insisted that if you wanted to go hunting, you wanted a shorter bow—one that had a small axle-to-axle measurement. The thinking made sense: bows with shorter axle-to-axle lengths usually shoot faster arrows, and they’re easier to lug through the woods during a hunt, a huge benefit if you’re still hunting and doing a fair amount of walking.

The trade-off, though, is that bows with a shorter axle-to-axle length aren’t as accurate as longer bows. That’s why target archers in competitions tend to have super long bows—they’re easier to hold in a single position, and they can prove to be a little more accurate.

All that said, in our humble opinion, the length of the bow isn’t the most important thing in the world, and if you’re fairly new to bowhunting deer, it might make sense to get a slightly longer bow because it can provide some added stability and aim. If you’re a pro and your marksmanship is on point, a shorter bow with a shorter axle-to-axle length can be a good choice because it can offer a lot of speed.

Bottom Line: If you’re an inexperienced archer, a shorter axle-to-axle length may be challenging and a mid-length bow can be a good bet. If you’re an experienced archer, a shorter bow can provide some extra speed.

Rest: Biscuit vs. Drop-Away

Some bowhunters swear that drop-away arrow rests are the be-all end-all whereas plenty of other bowhunters say a regular old whisker biscuit performs just fine. That’s our experience, too. A drop-away arrow rest offers a little more accuracy because it allows the arrow to be shot without any interference whatsoever, but the truth is, we’ve had no problem maintaining accuracy using a whisker biscuit.

The one verifiable difference is that a whisker biscuit offers better containment for an arrow, so if you let off arrows from all sorts of weird angles—maybe you’re bent over at a weird angle in a thicket, or all wrapped up in a ghillie suit and hunkered down in some brush—a whisker biscuit may be a better choice.

Bottom Line: Either is a good option, but if you find you end up shooting from odd angles and need some arrow containment, a whisker biscuit will hold your arrow steadier as you aim.

Draw Weight and Let-Off: Your Top Priority

This is arguably the most important feature, and we’ve saved it for last: the draw weight of the bow and the let-off of the bow.

In most states, your bow must meet or exceed a minimum draw weight in order for you to hunt game. That makes sense if you think about it because if the draw weight on your bow is too low, your arrows won’t travel with enough force to properly penetrate the animal and put it down humanely. Your bow needs to be strong enough to shoot arrows that will penetrate, and usually, for deer hunting, the minimum draw weight that states require is 40 pounds (although you’ll need to check with your state to make sure).

Here’s what we’d advise: if you’re new to bowhunting, a bow with an adjustable draw weight can be a great feature. You can practice on lower draw weights, gain skill and musculature, and then move up to higher draw weights that’ll send your arrows flying at higher speeds and with more kinetic energy.

If you’re a pro and you’ve been shooting for a number of years, and you know exactly what your draw weight is—and your draw weight meets your state’s minimum requirement for the game that you’ll be hunting—then it can make sense to buy a bow with a set draw weight.

The let-off is important too. When you pull the string of a compound bow all the way back, you’ll feel the draw weight suddenly decrease. That decrease is called let-off, and it’s usually measured as a percentage. If you were pulling a 100-pound compound bow that had 80-percent let-off, when you’re at full draw, the draw weight you will feel will be 20 pounds. 80% of 100 = 80. 100 – 80 = 20.

That’s an important feature when you’re hunting because if you see a deer and pull the bow string back, you might need to wait a little while until you get a clear shot. Having a bow with significant let-off can be a great thing to have, particularly if you’re shooting a high-poundage bow.

Bottom Line: Most compound bows provide significant let-off and should suit most bowhunters; if you’re shooting a bow with a very high draw weight, a high let-off percentage is an important factor.

The Best Deer Hunting Bows: Options We Like

Now that you have a clear idea of what to look for, here are the bows we consider good options for deer hunting:

Best Deer Hunting Bow for Beginners: TIDEWE Compound Bow

Our Verdict: We highly recommend the TIDEWE Compound Bow for beginners because it has a highly adjustable draw weight and high let-off that makes it easy to aim and practice with. However, its power and accessories make it a good model for any whitetail hunter.

Pros:

• Highly adjustable draw weight 0-70 lbs

• Adjustable draw length 18-31 inches

• 315 fps arrow speed

• Let-off up to 80%

• 5-pin sight included

Cons:

• Assembly required

• A little heavy

We like the Tidewe compound bow for deer hunting primarily because of its incredibly adjustable draw weight, one of the most adjustable out there. You can tune it all the way from 0 to 70 lbs.

We really like this for beginners since you can start with a lighter draw weight and practice until you can handle 40 pounds or more for hunting. That said, the high amount of power is great for anybody. It produces arrow speeds of up to 315 fps which gives you good accuracy over a good range as well as penetrating power that increases your chances of a kill.

Additionally, the high let-off of 80 percent helps beginners who might not be used to holding back heavy bowstrings. However, it will help any bowhunter. The lighter the bowstring, the easier it is to hold steadily, and that means a more accurate shot, especially if you have to hold your aim for a while.

The included accessories are great for beginners too, though any bowhunter can benefit. They include a stabilizer and release as well as six carbon arrows. Best of all, you get a five-pin sight. This lets you take advantage of the bow’s speed and power and shoot accurately over a longer range.

Best Deer Hunting Bow for Youth: PSE Archery Mini Burner RTS Compound Bow Package

Our Verdict: Getting the appropriate bow can help youth learn correct archery practices and start bowhunting with the right skills. That’s why we recommend this compound bow and its mid-range draw weight that’s good for learning but still enough for hunting.

Pros:

• Accessible draw weight 5-40 lbs

• Smaller draw length for youth

• Ready-to-shoot package

• Stabilizer included

• Lightweight 2.7 lbs

Cons:

• Only 65% let-off

• Only 3 arrows included

The PSE Mini Burner is perfect for a teenager new to bowhunting because it has a mid-range draw weight. Starting at an easily manageable five pounds, you can still adjust it up to 40 pounds, which is enough to hunt with in most states. In other words, a young archer can start small and work their way up until they’re confident enough to hunt.

Similarly, the draw length is appropriate for an adolescent archer or even a small adult. It’s adjustable as well, from 16 inches to 26.5 inches. This means a young archer can continue to use it even if they’re growing.

One thing to note: the let-off is low, just 65 percent. It’s not much of an issue because the draw weight is low anyway. However, it does mean the bowstring requires 14 pounds of force for 40 pounds of draw weight, so it’s important that a young archer work their way up and not go for high draw weights until they’re ready.

Last of all, the Mini Burner is good for beginners because it comes in a ready-to-shoot package. This means basic accessories are included, such as a three-pin sight, arrow rest, quiver and, best of all, a stabilizer. This way a beginner can hit the range right away without having to worry about finding compatible accessories.

We just wish it came with more than only three carbon arrows. Beginners are likely to lose arrows while hunting or practicing. Plus, the included quiver is extra large with room for five.

Best Deer Hunting Bow for Mature Bucks: Diamond Archery Edge 320

Our Verdict: For dominant mature bucks, you need speed and power as well as stability and silence. That’s why we recommend the Edge 320 and its 85% let-off for taking your trophy this whitetail season.

Pros:

• Quiet shot

• Binary cam system

• Adjustable draw weight 7-70 lbs

• 320 fps arrow speed

• Impressive 85% let-off

• Adjustable draw length 15-31 inches

Cons:

• Slightly heavier than other models

• Limited camo options

If the dominant buck in your area has been giving you the slip season after season, it might be time for a high-quality bow that has a fast but quiet shot that can penetrate his tough body. That’s the Edge 320.

What we really love is the synchronized binary cam system that produces up to 70 pounds of draw weight. That’s a lot of power and can produce arrow speeds up to 320 fps. Bucks are usually pretty suspicious, even in the rut, and you may need a longer shot to take down a mature one. A higher bow speed will help with that.

Similarly, it’s hard to beat the 85-percent let-off. That means you only have to hold around 10 pounds at full draw. Again, due to the intelligence and caution of a mature buck, you need to hold your bow steadily with little motion. The high let-off really helps with that.

A last side note on this bow, it has an adjustable draw length up to 31 inches. That makes it good for taller archers with longer wingspans. Though arm length varies by height, it should likely work for archers up to around 6’3″ unless they have particularly long arms.

Best Deer Hunting Bow Runner Up: Bear Archery Cruzer G2

Our Verdict: A great choice for a hunter looking to commit to bowhunting, it offers a blistering 315 fps of arrow speed along with a four-pin sight for longer-distance shots, and it even has a RockStop string suppressor that dampens sound and vibration during the shot.

Pros:

• Adjustable draw weight 5-70 lbs

• Lightweight at just 3 lbs

• Included string suppressor

• 4-pin bow sight

• 315 fps arrow speed

• Multiple camo options

Cons:

• Needs tuning

• 70% let-off is a bit low

What’s great about the Cruzer G2 is that it fits a wide range of bowhunters. It’s worth looking at regardless of your skill level and whether you’re hunting mature bull elk or small whitetail does. The reason is that the draw weight is highly adjustable, from five pounds to 70 pounds. Tune it as you like to get power, distance, manageability, accuracy, etc.

Additionally, the Bear Cruzer has a few other advantages over other popular models. For example, it produces a maximum arrow speed of 315 fps, and it comes with a four-pin bow sight. Combined, that really allows you to increase your range and push the limits of your current skills.

The only place the Cruzer G2 lags behind is the 70-percent let-off. This isn’t bad, per se, but for a bow of this quality, we’d expect a little more. 70 percent means that with the maximum draw weight, you’ll be holding back 21 pounds on the bowstring. Again, not too bad, but you may find that you can’t hold your aim for as long as you’re used to.

Perhaps our favorite feature, though, and the one that earns the G2 a place amongst the best bows for deer hunting, is the RockStops offset string suppressor. Deer can hear incredibly well and react quickly. A noisy shot could cause a quarry to jump, ruining your shot. Plus, it’ll scare off any other game in the area. The RockStop feature gobbles up a lot of the sound and minimizes that problem.

Finally, we love the wide range of camo options the Cruzer G2 comes in. This helps you blend in in your specific local environment. For example, go with the greener Toxic option if you’re in the south where plants stay green through deer season, but consider TrueTimber Strata if you’re in the Midwest where everything is brown by the rut.

Best Deer Hunting Bow Overall: Diamond by Bowtech Deploy SB R.A.K.

Our Verdict: With eye-popping arrow speed, 80% let-off, and advanced accessories included, it’s our all around favorite bow for hunting deer in any climate or situation.

Pros:

• Lightning-fast 330 fps arrow speed

• Maximum 70 lbs draw weight

• Binary cam system

• 80% let-off

• Advanced accessories included

• Lightweight carbon riser

Cons:

• Top-shelf price

The Deploy SB is an advanced model, and it shot up the list of our favorite deer hunting bows this year because of those advanced features. Admittedly, it’s a pricier compound bow as well, so when considering its power and specialization, it’s best for serious bowhunters who have a few seasons under their belt and know what they’re doing.

First, just consider the lethal power of this bow. You can get it with a maximum draw weight of 70 pounds that produces an arrow speed of 330 fps, one of the fastest you can get on the market today. That means serious kinetic energy and better penetration, even at long distances.

Be aware that this draw weight is not especially adjustable. You can get a version adjustable from 50 to 60 pounds or 60 to 70. Frankly, this is better for experienced archers who consistently use the same draw weight. It means the bow is more structurally sound and likely to last you more seasons. This is in addition to a binary cam system that requires less tuning to remain accurate.

Meanwhile, the let-off is a full 80 percent. Regardless of the draw weight you use, the Deploy SB is much easier to hold at full draw. This gives you a more accurate aim, even if you have to wait a long time for a quarry to come into range or turn for a good shot.

Finally, though this is a top-shelf model with the corresponding price tag, the full “Ready Aim Kill” kit increases the value for your money. This includes accessories like a four-pin sight, brush arrow rest, stabilizer and a quiver with room for five arrows.

Happy Deer Hunting!

As with all our product review posts, we try to educate as we discuss bows, so hopefully there’s something here that will illuminate the art and science of deer hunting. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us. We’re always open to ideas for new articles and reviews.

As always, be safe, have fun, and happy hunting!

If you’re on the hunt for a long-range shooter in a new caliber that promises remarkable downrange ballistics, incredible energy retention, and is easy on the shoulder, pull the trigger (no pun intended) on Browning’s X-Bolt Speed LR.

Reviewing new rifles and calibers has always been near and dear to my writing heart. I love getting in a fancy-to-do new shooter with ammo that promises to be a ballistic marvel and putting it through the paces.

Some rifles and calibers, even wildcat calibers many raved over, did little for me. Call me old-fashioned, but it’s hard to beat tried-and-true legends like the .308 Win., .300 Rem. Mag., and .03-06 Sprg.

*This review was written without bias about the review of the Browning X-Bolt Speed LR. Affiliate links were placed in the article after it was written.

A few years back, a rifle arrived at my FFL chambered in 6.5 PRC. The 6.5 bore diameter was familiar; I had several 6.5 Creedmoors in the gun safe. Still, the new round from Hornady grabbed my attention.

Hornady touted the round as “the big brother of the 6.5 Creedmoor.” As sick as I was of the current Creedmoor fascination, I did (still do) love the caliber. It’s fast, flat-shooting, and uber-accurate.

The story behind the 6.5 PRC was a 200-plus feet-per-second increase over the Creedmoor in a bullet seated in a compact magnum cartridge. The PRC was engineered to put high-performance bullets on the mark at ridiculously long ranges and provide remarkable energy retention.

After a week of shooting the new rifle with Hornady’s 143 gr ELD-X Precision Hunter rounds, I fell in love. I anchored a couple of speed goats at long ranges and a big old muley that fall. I loved the velocity, terminal performance, and the lack of recoil the round produced.

A year or so ago, I started hearing rumblings about a new PRC, the 7mm PRC, to be exact, and Hornady was once again spearheading the mission.

When Browning’s Rafe Neilson asked me if I’d be interested in testing and hunting with the manufacturer’s X-Bolt Speed LR chambered in 7mm PRC, I jumped at it.

The Browning X-Bolt First Impressions

Tar and feather me, but you can’t beat the out-of-box factory performance of an X-bolt platform. I own six X-Bolts, and, spoiler alert, the Speed LR will be joining my collection.

The composite stock is airy and covered in Browning’s OVIX camo pattern, which I love, and the barrel and action are cloaked in a stylish Smoke Bronze Cerakote metal finish.

Aesthetics aside, the adjustable comb system on the stock and the extended bolt handle were other features that jumped out at me immediately. I love customization, and with a one-inch adjustment, I knew the comb would create ideal eye-to-scope alignment. This is critical with any rifle but especially essential if you make one and then brand it with LR (Long Range) capabilities. The gun may shoot far accurately, but for shooters to take advantage of advanced ballistics, the rifle needs an excellent build.

I also applaud the extended bolt handle. The X-Bolt’s short, rapid 60-degree throw is one of my favorite features. The Browning X Bolt Speed LR promises this same bolt throw, but with the bolt handle extended, reloading is faster and more efficient than ever before.

I appreciate that Browning fluted the sporter contour barrel on the X Bolt. Fluted barrels reduce weight and factor into the accuracy equation. The belled muzzle allows for standard, suppressor-ready threads, and the threaded muzzle brake is designed to reduce felt recoil drastically.

Make It So

I have a pair of open-country elk tags in my pocket this fall. While I will do my darndest to get as close as possible, I want to get prone and make a long shot if necessary.

For this reason, I topped the rifle with Leupold’s VX-5HD3-15×44. I have used this scope on other rifles, and Leupold takes the cake regarding optical ingenuity. Leupold scopes are tanks that resist weather and gather light like crazy, and many, like the VX-5HD, come with Leupold’s CDS-ZL2 dial. With this dial, shooters can gather intel requested by Leupold, send the dial in, and Leupold will send back a laser-marked bullet-drop dial that matches their exact ballistics.

There are lots of great ammo makers. My problem is I’m superstitious. I brought down the last big bull I took with a load from Federal Premium. For this test, I opted to tinker with a pair of Federal 7mm PRC makes — the ELD-X 175 Grain and Terminal Ascent 155 Grain. I’m a fan of both bullets, and while the 175-grain is a tad heavier for elk, I like the 3,100 fps muzzle velocity of the Terminal Ascent. Plus, the build of the Terminal Ascent bullet means extreme long-range expansion and short-range weight retention. I don’t want a long-range bullet that explodes on a bull’s side at close range due to the bullet’s velocity.

I mounted the scope with Leupold rings and bases, and after taking my time to level the scope and set my comb height, proper eye relief was obtained.

Field Test

I’m not a fan of burning through pricy ammo. For this reason, I bore sight rifles at 200 yards. I place a 6-inch diameter steel orange plate at 200 yards, lock my gun down in a BOG DeathGrip, and remove the bolt. With the bolt removed, I adjust the tripod, line the barrel hole up with the center of the plate, lock the tripod down, and walk the crosshairs in. If the rifle is worth its salt, this system typically puts the first shot on the plate. I add a cardboard backing, so if I miss the plate, I know by how much.

My first shot with Federal’s ELD-X 175 Grain smacked the plate low and left. After adjusting my scope, the next shot from 200 yards hit the steel target’s center.

Wanting to let the barrel cool and go through the proper channels, I used Real Avid’s Master Gun WorkStation and some cleaning materials to swab the barrel and cool it down.

Back on the range, I moved to 300 yards, did some dial tweaking based on the drop Federal brands on their ammo boxes, kept the rifle in the BOG, and sent another at the plate. Bingo! The sweet sound of steel. This rifle is an out-of-the-box shooter. The trigger is butter — shots break clean and smooth — and recoil is mild. The last thing I want to consider is recoil, and the Inflex recoil pad blended with the muzzle break drastically reduces it.

I shot the rifle for two days and went through 20 rounds of Terminal Ascent and 20 rounds of ELD-X. The rifle’s 1:8 twist rate favored both rounds. Naturally, the 155-grain had less drop, and not being able to send in my CDS dial ahead of time to Leupold, I stopped testing at 600 yards. With the 175-grain ELD-X, I stopped sending lead at 500 yards.

Both rounds are extremely capable, and though I’m not sure which one will be my elk killer, I want to note this rifle is accurate as the day is long. It builds shooting confidence, which is everything when trying to put lead on the mark at extended ranges. I give the rifle a 5-star rating, and I can’t wait to see how it performs in the coming months.

Browning X-Bolt Speed LR 7mm PRC Specs:

Action Length: Long Barrel Length: 26 in. Overall Length: 46 3/4 in. Weight: 7.3 pounds Magazine Capacity: Removable, 3-round Twist Rate: 1:8 Barrel Finish: Smoked Bronze Cerakote Receiver Finish: Smoked Bronze Cerakote Stock Finish: Ovix Stock Material: Composite Recoil Pad: Inflex 1 Drilled and Tapped: Yes MSRP: $1,479.99

How much does a bear weigh exactly? Well, depending on the exact species and gender, they can be as heavy as 1,500 pounds.

But they are not all preying on seals in the Arctic, and some can’t go beyond 150 pounds, such as the Southeast Asian sun bear.

For more on the factors that affect their growth, read below!

How Much Do Bears Weigh?

Bears are massive creatures, but that doesn’t stop them from running at an exceptional speed. They have robust figures with exceptionally sharp claws and jaws, hence the reputation of ferocious predators that can pose a danger to humans.

But what about the weight? How much does the average bear weigh?

Although many factors contribute to a bear’s weight, most of these animals have an average body mass that ranges between 200 and 500 pounds. That number can change when the animal is either pregnant or hibernating.

However, many bear species are much smaller than the average, while some exceed that limit to a large degree. For instance, the sun bear rarely weighs more than 100 pounds, while the average male polar bear can grow to a startling 1,100 pounds.

Now, let’s take a look at the average bear weight of all eight extant bear species that can still be found in the world. Below we rank them from the largest to the smallest.

​1. Polar Bears (Ursus Maritimus)

The polar bear is already known to be the largest bear breed, so it’s not surprising that the heaviest recorded bear in history is a 2,209-pound male polar bear that was hunted in 1960 in Alaska.

Astonishingly, this creature managed to double the already enormous 1,100-pound average bear weight that these species are known for.

2. ​Brown Bears (Ursus Arctos)

The largest recorded brown bear had a body mass of over 1,200 pounds and was discovered by a taxidermist in 1976. In 2014, there was another great discovery of a grizzly skull, which measured 27 and 6/16th inches in length.

A close runner-up, ​a captive Dakota Zoo Kodiak bear, had a body weight of 2,130 pounds with a nine-inch thick fat layer at the time of his death in 1987. It’s speculated that a year prior to that, the predator weighed 2,400 pounds. However, there was no way to prove this definitely.

3. Asian Black Bears (Ursus Thibetanus)

American black bears already have a substantial 340-pound physique, but back in 1972, a 902-pound male was discovered in New Brunswick. It’s estimated to have weighed 1,100 pounds and was 7.9 feet long.

Imagine what it would look like if a person stood next to these enormous creatures! Considering their massive physique, does it really come as a shock that a male grizzly is five times stronger than an average human being?

4. Panda Bears (Ailuropoda Melanoleuca)

5. Sloth bear (Melursus Ursinus)

6. Andean Bear (Tremarctos Ornatus)

7. North American Black Bear (Ursus Americanus)

8. Sun Bear (Ursus Malayanus)

How Heavy Is a Bear: Determining Factors

Even among members of the same species, bears can vary in weight based on several factors, which we explore in detail below.

1. Species

As demonstrated above, the bear’s species is the most important factor in determining its specific weight and body type.

Generally, some

Smaller breeds—that don’t need to be exceptionally huge to survive—usually weigh under 300 pounds. In contrast, omnivore bear species that need to hunt or need that additional skin and fur to survive in the cool climate will be bulkier.

2. Age

It surely is no surprise that aging predominantly affects an animal’s body weight. Cubs start off relatively small, usually around a pound, and gradually raise more body mass until they reach their full-grown potential.

When they are still young, before reaching maturity, bears weigh under 100 pounds. Their size substantially increases in most cases, but some species don’t grow much.

Bears won’t hunt as much as they age, which can lead to a certain weight loss, but nothing would drastically change.

3. Sex

4. Time of the Year

How much do bears weigh when hibernating?

Hibernation influences a bear’s size throughout the year. During winter, bears completely shut down. They don’t need to eat or drink and rarely urinate or defecate.

To endure that state of hibernation, bears have to cram down as much food as possible during summer, especially carbohydrate-rich berries. This results in a significant weight gain during this season, which can increase by 30 pounds in just one week.

A similar thing happens when a female bear gets pregnant. Right after the mating season, these animals can put on 100 pounds. Polar bears, specifically, can even double up their size while carrying a cub.

Key Takeaways

So how much does the average bear weigh? As you can see, their weight varies greatly among the different species, subspecies, and genders. That said, the brown bear and the American black bear are most prevalent in the U.S., and their adult males weigh around 900 pounds and 600 pounds, correspondingly.

FAQs

How much does a grizzly bear weigh?

While their size varies between subspecies, male grizzlies can grow up to 900 pounds on average, with females weighing around 200 to 300 pounds less.

How much does a bear weigh at birth?

It depends on the species. For instance, male brown bear cubs weigh around a pound, and by the end of their first year, they grow up to 200 pounds.

Ravin released the R26 as their most compact crossbow in 2019. With an ultra-narrow width of just 5.75 inches when cocked and only a total length of 26 inches, the R26 is a compact yet very powerful crossbow that shoots arrows at 400 FPS!

Ravin Crossbows is one of the best crossbow manufacturers. Ravin has been dominating the crossbow market for a long time together with TenPoint, Excalibur and Barnett. Ravin has designed some revolutionary new features like the HeliCoil technology, Versa-Draw cocking system, Trac-Trigger firing system and a frictionless flight-system. Ravin’s R29X, R29X Sniper and R29 sniper models also feature a fully integrated Silent Cocking System.

The R26 Ravin crossbow has a completely new frictionless flight-system so that the arrow does not make contact with the rail! Together with their HeliCoil technology, this ensures high speeds and high accuracy. This crossbow works with a cocking mechanism that is very safe and easy to use. Because of all of these amazing features, this crossbow can be used by everyone!

Ravin R26 Compact 400 FPS Crossbow Features

Extra Features

Ravin managed to make the R26 the most compact and lightweight crossbow currently on the market, still feature an amazing number of high-tech features and reach speeds of over 400 feet per second!

Ravin’s R26 features HeliCoil technology, Versa-Draw cocking system with an ambidextrous removable draw handle, Trac-Trigger firing system, frictionless flight-system and a premium 100-yard Illuminated scope from Ravin themselves.

Size and Weight

With just 9.25 inches wide when cocked and 5.75 inches wide uncocked and just a total length of 26 inches, the Ravin R26 is the most compact crossbow we’ve ever got to shoot. Even though it’s a very compact crossbow and only has a power stroke of 9.5 inches, the Ravin R26 can still shoot arrows at blistering speeds.

The R26 is also a very lightweight crossbow, only 6.5 lbs.! It feels really well balanced, not nose-heavy at all. Ravin did a fantastic job at making this a compact and lightweight crossbow.

Speed and Arrows

Ravin advertises the R26 as a 400 feet per second crossbow. We wanted to test this out, because it’s so compact and lightweight that we thought it’d be impossible to reach the 400 feet per second with the crossbow pre-assembled, pre-tuned and sighted by Ravin.

We were amazed at reading the speeds of the R26 on our ProChrono chronograph. 407, 405 and 411 feet per second! That’s even higher than advertised by Ravin.

Ravin supplies 6 Ravin 20-inch, 400 grain, match-grade arrows with field tips. The field tips weigh 100 grains, the carbon arrows 300 grains. Usually the arrows that are provided with certain crossbows are just either too lightweight or straight up garbage. We think that the 400 grain arrows that Ravin delivers with the R26 are perfect.

These arrows have Ravin-engineered polymer nocks. Make sure the nock actually “clicks” into the string. If you didn’t properly load the crossbow, the trigger will not move into firing position.

WARNING: DO NOT USE NON-RAVIN ARROWS OR NOCKS WITH YOUR RAVIN CROSSBOW.

Scope

Ravin installed a 100 Yard Illuminated Scope on the Ravin R26. The scope measures 8.75 inches and has a variable speed and arrow drop compensation setting. The scope has 9 dots calibrated for 20 to 100 yards. It’s a perfect scope for crossbows that shoot 400 feet per second. The scope is tested to be fog-proof, weatherproof, shockproof, and recoil-proof.

Assembling and Disassembling

Ravin ships the R26 fully assembled and pre-tuned. You’ll only have to level the scope. To level the scope, we highly recommend you to get a Ravin Scope level. You can use this Ravin scope level for the R26, R29 and R29X crossbows.

Ravin designed the R26 to be easily carried with you in the field. It has 3 locations where you can attach the Ravin Backpack or shoulder slings.

At this price we really expected a crossbow case included with the package, there isn’t. You can either buy a Ravin soft case separately for around $150 on Amazon or on Ravincrossbows.com for $159.99.

If you’re thinking about getting the R26 crossbow with a crossbow case, you’re better off getting the Ravin R26 Predator Hunter’s Crossbow Bundle. It’s only around $100 more on Amazon and you’ll be getting the case and a Ravin Crossbows hat extra.

Cocking

One of the main features a Ravin crossbow sports is the built-in cocking mechanism with removable draw handle. Ravin patented it as the Versa-Draw™ Cocking System. With this cocking mechanism you’ll only need about 12 lbs. of force to fully cock the crossbow.

You can remove the draw handle and it’s possible to attach it on both sides of the stock. Unlike with TenPoint’s ACUdraw PRO or ACUslide you can not let go of the handle mid-crank.

While cocking the R26 is something to get used to, it’s also not the most silent way to cock a crossbow. Ravin’s R29X, R29X Sniper and R29 sniper models can also silently cock the crossbow.

We highly recommend to watch Ravin’s instructional video on how to cock the Ravin R26.

Shooting and Trigger

Ravin equipped the R26 with a Trac-Trigger firing system. The TTFS slides along the rail to catch the string, when the string is secured to the TTFS the safety and anti-dry fire will automatically engage.

The trigger mechanism works together with the TTFS. When you’ve properly cocked and loaded in an arrow, the trigger mechanism should automatically engage. If the trigger mechanism doesn’t engage, you’ve probably not loaded the arrow correctly. Make sure you hear a click when you load the arrow.

Ravin states in their manual that the trigger pull should be around 4.0 pounds. We tested this and actually came out at around 2.5 pounds.

The R26 is compact, lightweight and when you first look at it, you’ll probably think it’s a toy… We thought the same. After picking it up and shooting it, the toy-feeling instantly disappears. Ravin installed an ergonomic grip which makes this crossbow feel really good and well balanced in your hands. It’s very accurate and the amount of power from such a compact crossbow is just ridiculous.

Package Contents

The Ravin R26 comes fully assembled and pre-tuned. Included with your Ravin R26 crossbow package is the following:

• Ravin R26 Crossbow
• 100 Yard Illuminated Scope
• 3-Arrow Quiver and Quiver Bracket
• 6-Pack 400-Grain .003 Match Grade Arrows and Field Points
• Accessories Bracket
• Instruction Manual

Conclusion

Ravin managed to deliver a crossbow that’s very fast, yet compact and full of high-tech features. For smaller people, the Ravin R26 might be the best option right now. We were really hoping that Ravin would upgrade their cocking system so you can let go mid-crank just like with TenPoint’s ACUslide.

This is still an exceptional crossbow and you can’t find anything like it on the market today!

If you’re looking for a cocking mechanism that allows you to let go mid-crank, we would recommend you to take a look at our TenPoint crossbow reviews.

How to Rig and Setup Crab Pots.

Dungeness Crabs are abundant in every bay and inlet along the Pacific Coast and are considered a summertime delicacy. The beauty of living near the saltwater and being able to head out in even a small boat and catch these tasty shellfish is not lost on thousands of people who go out crabbing every summer. I wrote this post for those of you who are new to crabbing and need a little information on what equipment you need. You can also check out our post Puget Sound Dungeness Crabbing Buying Guide for some of our favorite equipment.

A good haul of Dungeness Crab from Puget Sound. This pile will easily feed the whole family!

Crab Pots

There are many different styles of crab pots but basically you can separate them into two groups, round pots and collapsible traps.

Pots are usually geared more towards those looking to crab in deeper water or heavier currents. If you plan on trying to catch Dungeness Crab in the Pacific Ocean, where currents are strong, you want to pick up heavily weighted round pots. Pots tend to be heavier with the weight build into the frame, most weigh 10 to 20 pounds. They are also more expensive than collapsible traps. However, collapsible traps are extremely popular in areas like Puget Sound.

Collapsible traps tend to be less expensive. However, they are light weight and you need to add some pot weights so they don’t drift off. I spend most of my time crabbing in Puget Sound and the SMI/Beau Mac collapsible traps are my favorite. We typically are setting our traps in less than 80 feet of water, so a little added weight is all that is needed to keep the trap from drifting. Collapsible traps are also easier to store. If you plan on keeping your traps on your boat they are real space savers. If you are crabbing from a small boat where space is an issue, bring along the collapsible traps and assemble them one-by-one as you go!

Both traps and pots can be soaked for a long period of time. If you are planning on soaking for a few hours while fishing or overnight, traps and pots are preferred over rings.

Crab Rings

Crab rings are extremely popular, very effective, and preferred if you are looking to catch crab in shallow waters. Rings are popular with folks trying to catch crab from a dock or pier. I like to use crab rings when I am fishing in less than fifty feet. Rings lay flat on the bottom but when pulled, they create a basket that funnels crab to the bottom and keeps them there. Because a ring will simply lie on the bottom, crabs are free to come and go as they please. Fresh bait will draw them into the ring. When using rings, allowing a soak time of about 20 to 45 minutes is perfect. Crab will quickly eat away any bait. They will start searching for another food sources once the bait is gone.

Crab Trap Harness

When pulling up a crab ring, trap or pot it is important to pull it up evenly. A ring that is pulled up slanted can allow for crabs to crawl out the edge of the ring; a trap that is pulled up slanted allows crabs to potentially escape through an open door. A 3-way or 4-way harness solves this problem. These are designed to clip to the corners of a trap, or clipped evenly around a round pot or ring for a smooth and level retrieve. Harnesses are highly recommended over just tying your line to the edge of your pot/ring/trap.

Crabbing Lines

There are two options for your crabbing main line, yellow ¼ inch poly line or leaded line. Yellow poly is thinner, cheaper and it floats. Floating lines can cause problems when crabbing in an area with boat traffic. Let’s just say you have a 100’ line and decide to set your trap at a 50’ depth, lines can easily be tangled in a boat’s prop or cut off by one. If you decide to use yellow poly, be sure to clip on some weight to the line to pull it under the surface. I find snapping on a weight is a pain, and that a thin line is less comfortable to pull. Leaded lines are a little more expensive, but they offer huge benefits! Leaded line is easy to coil. You won’t have to worry about getting it tangled in someone’s prop because it sinks.

Crab Buoy

Here in Washington, we have many requirements pertaining to our crab floats. They must be half red, half white. You need to write your name and address on the buoy. They must be on the surface and visible at all times. Identifying which buoy belongs to you can be challenging at times. Use a PVC staff and either paint it a bright color or attach a flag to it, this will help you locate your pot quickly. Some folks will connect a multicolored buoy to their required red/white. I am a huge advocate of any form of customization; imagine motoring into a sea of red/white buoys and having to motor around looking for the one with your name written on it!

Bait Boxes

Bait boxes are an easy way to store bait in a trap. A bait box will slow down the crabs’ attempts to devour your bait. I prepare all of my bait boxes in advance, then I put them in a cooler so they are ready to go. Attach them permanently with wire ties or zip ties, temporarily with small bungies.

Bait Pins

If you are using a fish carcass for bait, a bait pin can be a great alternative to the bait box. Just run the pin through the mouth of a filleted out rockfish or salmon and into the bottom mesh of your ring/trap/pot.

Best Dungeness Crab Bait

Fresh baits work best. Save any filleted carcasses of salmon, trout, rockfish or lingcod because they make excellent bait for Dungeness Crab. Also, I have done very well with chicken, turkey legs and herring. One of the funnest things to do is catch flounder or sand dabs and use them in the trap.

Crab Measuring Device

Having a measuring device with you is extremely important. Every marine area has a specific minimum size requirement for crabs, and a crab measuring tool is essential. Possessing a crab that is even 1/16” under the minimum size can potentially yield you a confiscation of your entire catch and a hefty ticket.

Pot Pullers and Davits

Having an electric pot puller is nice for heavy pots or crabbing in deeper water. If you plan on doing any shrimping then you definitely need to invest in one. Even having a davit with a pulley on the boat makes pulling much easier. Plus it keeps the line from rubbing on the gunwale of the boat and keeps the pot from scratching up the side of your boat.

Electric Pot Puller Suggestions

• Scotty 2500 Electric Pot Puller – View on Amazon

For those of us who are into handguns and have not been living under a rock for the past 3 decades or so, the name Glock has come to be a household word in the shooting universe. People who may have never held a gun (let alone a Glock) recognize the name. It is estimated that 65% of U.S. police agencies use some form of Glock or another. It is time for us to take a deep dive into all you need to know about the Glock 9mm and the various models. We’ll look at:

The Glock story is quite remarkable considering that the man who designed the gun knew next to nothing about pistol design. Gaston Glock sold curtain rods and knives to the Austrian military, and was familiar with injection-molded parts. His team designed the Model 17 pistol to help the Austrian military who needed a new sidearm, and a firearms legend was born. An interesting tidbit is that the “17” represents the 17th patent issued to the Glock corporation, and this numbering sytems continues to this day.

Love ‘Em Or Hate ‘Em

Shooters tend to either be Glock fans or detractors – not much middle ground there. I am one of those rare birds who is in the middle with my opinion of Gaston’s wunderkind. I owned a Model 30 .45 ACP for a good while and had an aftermarket barrel for it so I could shoot my cast bullet handloads. It performed well without being overly showy. Gun eye candy it wasn’t. I called Glocks in another article I’d written the Chevy Impala of the pistol industry. The Impala is a good, mid-price car that is a popular choice among car buyers – reliable and well-designed without being overly showy.

The Glock, just like the Impala, gets the job done in a utilitarian manner. It gets the job done without costing an arm and a leg. And, they tend to be very reliable. All those police agencies buying into the Glock system is a pretty good testament to this.

Let’s Get Specific – the best sellers

Narrowing it down a bit, let’s look at Glock’s best sellers. In terms of caliber, the 9mm rules the roost for Glock. And, of over fifty pistol models Glock sells, their very-best-seller is the 9mm Model 19. This compact pistol packs 15+ 1 rounds in a smallish package. I know of many people who carry this model, as it seems to hit the optimal middle ground between concealable size and capacity. Now if that one isn’t for you you got another 19 main 9mm Glock models to chose from.

I put together a chart comparing specifications for the most popular models as well as an extended version comparing all twenty, for all you detail-oriented shooters. To be sure, some of these models are pretty scarce in gun shops as they tend to fulfill a very specific purpose (example: long-range competition, which the Model 34 excels at). So, before we crunch all the chart’s numbers, let’s look at the most popular Glock 9mms in some detail.

The Breakdown

In general, here is a quick, condensed listing of most of Glock’s models.

That’s the condensed list. Are you a numbers guy? Here is the extended version of all the 9mm Glocks available and you can click on the header to sort them (Table is best viewed on PC or Tablet):

Some Definitions, Please

Now, let’s look at the individual models, but before that, a little explanation is needed. If you glance at the table above, you will see “MOS” and “FS” listed after some models. MOS stands for Modular Optic System. Glock modified the frame on these guns by milling a slot in front of the rear sight to accept a red dot or other sight’s mounting plate. This is covered with a filler when not being used.

FS means the guns include Front (slide) Serrations. Those pistols marked FS have serrations on the front part of the slide to aid in manipulating the slide, in addition to the standard rear serrations. Many shooters asked Glock to include front serrations on all their newer guns. So far they only applied them to those guns that are marked FS.

Gen What? What’s The Difference?

An explanation of Glock’s generations is in order, if we are to keep this article as helpful as possible for those of you considering the purchase of a Glock. A “Generation” in Glock terminology equates to other companies coming out with “Mod 2”, “2.0”, etc. It basically designates a major overhaul of features on their guns. The feature changes (usually referred to as upgrades) could be several smaller ones, a few “big” important ones, or a combination of both in order to qualify to become the next generation. So, here we go, from the original Glock (now called Gen1) through the newest generation as of this writing, the Gen5.

Gen1 – Introduced in 1982

This is the original, bare-bones Glock Model 17. We can identify this gun by its relative lack of stippling or texturing on the frame and no finger grooves. This is the Glock that originally equipped the Austrian military when they placed an order for 25,000 pistols in 1983. Here’s an interesting note: In addition to the Model 17 pistols sold to the military were Model 18s – a Model 17 with selective-fire capability that fired between 1100-1300 RPM. Glock also offered a compensated version of this gun (Model 18C). This was technically a machine pistol and as such, was subject to the regulations and fees imposed on the ownership of machine guns as those individuals found out who attempted to buy one.

Gen2 – Introduced in 1988

Gen3 – Introduced in 1998

They gave the Model 22 RTF2 (.40 S&W) a rough, textured finish and fish-gill-shaped slide serrations and new checkering around the grip in 2009. Other models made available with the RTF2 treatment included the 31, 32, 23, 21, and 19, although not all had the fish-gill-shaped serrations.

Gen4 – Introduced at the SHOT Show, 2010

Gen5 – Introduced in August, 2017

OK…Got it? Now let’s look at some of the more common, readily-available models…

The 9mm Glock lineup

Glock 17

Starting with Model 17, we see a full-size frame and a longer barrel than the smaller models. This gun was the first Glock to go mainstream. This was mainly down to the adoption by the Austrian military and some police units starting in 1982. I remember when the gun came out – the first “plastic pistol” to go worldwide (the H&K VP70 technically was the first polymer pistol, introduced in 1970 for the German market).

The anti-gunners were all worked up that this “plastic gun” would be invisible to airport metal detectors, and some in the shooting community thought the gun would fail because of concerns they had as to the durability of the gun’s frame. Neither concern amounted to anything – they simply did not happen. Instead, the pistol’s reliability and innovative design endeared it to not only military and police units but to civilians as well. The gun has, on average, only 35 parts…talk about simplicity! My brother has a Gen 4 Model 17 that he really likes. I have shot it and was impressed. Due to its size, the 17 is not really made for concealed carry. It is more at home in a police officer’s Level 3 Retention holster, or in a tactical rig on the leg of a military SOE operative.

Variations

The Model 17 comes in Gen 3, 4 and 5 versions. Therefore, if you like finger grooves (or not), you are in luck – just buy the generation that has what you want. Need a competition gun? Pick up a Gen4 or Gen5 MOS and mount a red-dot sight on it. Want a plain-jane all-around shooter? Get a Gen3 and save some money (if you can still find one). The Model 17, as stated above, started it all.

Model 19

OK…now let’s look at a compact 9mm. Being the best-selling Glock make, the Model 19 has its share of enthusiastic users out there. Also, let’s not forget the after-market parts industry. The Model 19 probably has more third-party parts available than any other Glock. That said, the Model 19 is just about perfect for IWB- or OWB-concealed carry with its 4-inch barrel, slim inch-and-a-quarter width, and 15 rounds in the magazine. As I have written about before, this pistol is the benchmark other compact 9mms are judged against.

I know several people who carry a Model 19 and love it. It is no coincidence that Glock chose to release the Model 17 and the Model 19 first in their Gen5 configuration. The 17, with its law enforcement following, and the Model 19, being the best-selling Glock.

However…

The Gen5 Model 19 was generally well-received. The only complaint I’ve heard about the Gen5 Model 19 concerns the cutout at the front bottom of the frame. Some shooters say it hurts their hand, as it lies at the point where their hand’s heel and palm meet the frame. The sharp edge is the culprit, they say. This doesn’t seem to be an issue with the Model 17 due to its longer grip frame. Fortunately, they also addressed this issue in the new Model 45 (below).

Variations

Just as with the Model 17, there are several variations available for the Model 19. Depending upon your need, there is a configuration that should work for you. For competitors needing a red dot sight, the MOS models are indicated. You get the added benefit of forward slide serrations with those models, as well.

In addition to the availability of Gen3, 4, and 5 Model 19s, the fairly new 19X is now available as well. I think this one is worthy of a write-up here, and we’ll get to it next. You can also read my full Glock 19X review.

Glock 19X

To begin, it’s important to grasp what the Glock 19X is. It’s a G19 slide mounted on a G17 frame. Shorter barrels and longer frames are the current trends in weapons. That is precisely what the Glock 19x is all about. What’s the advantage of that? It provides a well-balanced and easy-to-control blasting experience. The redesigned Marksman barrel, paired with modifications to the handgun’s exterior frame, Glock claims, increases accuracy, longevity, efficiency, grip, and flexibility. Recoil management, on the other hand, was a piece of cake. Of course, there are still Glock haters and people who don’t like the adjustments. But for some shooters, as long as it is a ‘Glock’, it will be a fine gun.

What are the differences? With this version, you’ll get two reversed 19-round magazines and one 17-round magazine. The trigger pull is lighter than a standard 19. There’s also a lanyard loop and standard night sights. The most noticeable difference is the color, which is now coyote tan. The Glock 19x is bulky and difficult to conceal. Yet, the Glock 19x is still a competitive firearm and is useful for a variety of purposes.

When it comes to shooting, there are a few things to keep in mind. I fired a couple of different 9mm rounds through the 19X, and let me tell you, it’s a very accurate gun. The G19x could handle a wide range of bullet types, including hollow tips.

The snappy and smooth Gen 5 trigger is perhaps the G19X’s standout feature. The Gen 5 trigger incorporates a dual lock block pin assembly and a modified trigger bar. They altered the safety plunger on the Gen 5 to allow for a smoother trigger pull.

Glock 26

Here we have Glock’s double-stack subcompact 9mm. The Model 26 is a favorite backup gun among law enforcement officers and a prime candidate for purchase by civilian concealed carriers. At only a little over four inches high, this gun disappears in an IWB holster. When you carry a gun concealed, especially inside your waistband, the height of the gun is important.

The higher (or taller) the gun is, the harder it is to hide the grip frame as it tends to stick out and print under your garment. That’s why compact and subcompact guns usually come with a flush-fit magazine and sometimes an extended one as well. Most folks carry the flush-fit magazine in the gun with the longer one as a spare. The shorter the height of the gun, the easier it is to conceal, generally speaking. That’s why the Model 26 is so popular, being only a shade over four inches in height.

Glock still makes the 26 in Gen3, along with Gen4 and Gen5. This model is also able to use the greatest number of Glock 9mm magazines, eight. This gun’s standard capacity is ten rounds, but it can use all the Glock magazines up to thirty-three rounds. That’s versatility! Many people will buy a Model 26 in order to get the concealability it offers, and they also realize that they have the ability to use up to a thirty-three-round magazine. This is the best of both worlds for them.

Glock 34

The long-range specialist…the Model 34 was designed to be accurate “way out there.” It uses the longest barrel that Glock puts in a 9mm pistol, a 5.3-inch tube. This gun is a mainstay at competitions that require longer-range shooting. It is also a favorite of SWAT teams. What makes it so accurate? The longer barrel? The barrel length helps by ensuring that velocity is kept up. The main factor that aids accuracy is the approximate 7.5 inches between the front and rear sights. The further apart the sights are, the greater the chances of increased practical accuracy. Sights are about 5.3 inches apart on a Model 26 – that’s a pretty big difference.

The guns, obviously, serve two different purposes but I use the shorter-barreled gun as an example to point out just how long the barrel on the Model 34 is and how much different the sight radius is. Generalizations are difficult to make, but all else being equal, most shooters would be more accurate from 50-100 yards with the Model 34 than any shorter-barreled, shorter-sight-radius gun.

The fact that Glock sells a goodly amount of these pistols testifies to the fact that it works. Now…if we talk about intrinsic accuracy (the ability of the gun by itself to shoot accurately without human intervention), a lot of Glock 9mms would show they could be accurate at distance. Put a Model 19, say, in a Ransom Rest and see what it does at 50 yards. As for practical accuracy (a shooter holding the gun and shooting the best that he/she can), that’s where the longer sight radius comes in. Generally speaking, as stated above, the further apart the sights are, the better the gun’s practical accuracy.

The Model 34 is not made as a Gen3 gun, only a Gen4 and Gen5. With either of those, however, you can get the MOS version that really brings out the tack-driving accuracy these guns are capable of. Put a good optic on the gun and you’re good, as I said earlier, “way out there!” Such is the Model 34.

Glock 43

Now we come to the only single-stack 9mm that Glock makes. Here we have a gun that will just about fit in your pocket yet has the ability to put 6 + 1 rounds on a target very quickly and accurately. With a loaded magazine aboard, the gun only weighs about 21 ounces. This is a gun you can carry all day and forget that it’s there.

I have a friend on a local police force who traded a Beretta to acquire a Model 43. He told me he’s had a little trigger work done on the gun, but that’s the extent of his mods. He carries it daily. I’ve had the chance to shoot with him and his partner at my backyard range and well, let’s just say that I wouldn’t want to be on the other end of his Model 43’s muzzle. He is good with it, to put it mildly because he practices with it a lot.

If you are looking for either a primary concealed carry weapon or a backup, the Model 43 is a good choice. It only comes in one flavor right now – you can’t get a Gen5 version – but the one is good enough. A Model 43 and a couple of extra mags will make you good to go. I mentioned carrying this gun in your pocket. This is feasible, and a viable way to pack the 43. This is the only 9mm Glock that I know of that will fit in a pocket. The Model 42 .380 will ride in your pocket, but it’s not a 9mm.

My police officer friend Austin tells me he loves the little gun, as do many police officers who carry them in pockets, on their ankles, inside their waistbands, or anywhere else. It’s the de facto designated go-to