Spider rigging for crappie looks simple enough — a bunch of fishing rods weaving a web of lines from bow to stern. A closer look at the boats of crappie pros reveals that their spider rigs are intricate systems based on exact rod positioning and specialized rod-holder designs. The pros set up their spider rigs differently depending on the situation, whether it’s fishing deep brushpiles, open-water structure, shallow vegetation, or for pushing crankbaits.
The most essential pieces of equipment for spider-rigging are the rods and holders. “The key is to make sure the rods are all the same,” says Barry Morrow, a guide on Oklahoma’s Lake Eufaula. “All the rods should be the same length, power, and action, and they should be adjusted to the same height in the rod holders, so that you are able to decipher the motion of the rod tips to detect bites. If you are using different types of rods they’re all bowed differently and respond differently to strikes, making it more difficult to interpret rod-tip and line movement.”
Preferences on rod-holder design vary among the pros, but there’s one that top anglers all agree on: Rod holders need to be stable. “When I mount a set of rod racks, I want those things not to move,” says Alabama guide Brad Whitehead. Beyond that, top spider-riggers have developed individualized setups to suit the situations they fish.
Whitehead’s Deep Brush
Probing deep brush
For spider-rigging over brushpiles on Wilson and Pickwick lakes, Whitehead prefers 12-foot rods at the bow. He places 10-foot rods across the stern for his clients because the shorter rods are easier for them to handle. Rods are spread evenly across the bow and stern for uniform coverage and easy access to the poles. “I’m a fanatic on keeping 11„2 feet between each rod,” says Whitehead, who also keeps each rod tip about 8 to 10 inches above the water.
He usually sets his baits at different depths, varying about 1 to 2 feet. “I want my shallowest rods to my right and left, but the deepest rods are always the two in the middle,” he says. His poles are rigged with B’n’M Capps and Coleman Minnow Rigs (with a 1-ounce weight).
Whitehead’s choice of rod holder is a four-pole Hi-Tek Stuff mount. He positions two of the mounts about 3 feet apart on the bow and stern. “Position rod racks so when you are sitting, you don’t hit your knees on the rod handles,” he says. “Make sure they’re far enough away, but not too far to where you have to bend to get the rods. You want to be able to sit up straight when you grab rods.”
Capps’ Pads
Pad fishing
Six-time national champions Ronnie Capps and Steve Coleman are renowned for their spider-rigging tactics in the lily pad stems at Reelfoot Lake. The key to their setup is a customized pole-holder system with independent mounts rather than a rack that holds multiple rods. “The rod holders cradle the poles so you have no trouble getting your hand between the forks of the holder and the rod butt. And when you grab a pole out of the holder it’s a quick reaction,” says Capps. “You’re able to get your hand in there with no problem.
“The reason for the independent holders is because I want my poles to be ultra still. With a T-bar type mount, on the other hand, if you grab one pole from a set of four, you disturb the other three rods and you can’t detect a bite. With independent holders, you can detect bites well. I also think fish bite better when a pole isn’t moving much.
Capps is constantly moving his poles off the pad stems to prevent hang-ups. He says the individually mounted holders are critical in this situation because getting hung up on one pole doesn’t disturb the others.
The Tennessee pro also prefers a rod holder with a Y-fork cradle rather than a U-shaped cradle, for better hook-sets. “If you see a bite and the line is scooting to the left, you want to set the hook to the right. But with some of the U-shaped holders there is only one way to get that pole out — straight up,” Capps says.
The depth and cover Capps fishes determines how far apart he positions 8 poles across the front of the boat. “If I’m fishing shallow and directly into spots that I expect fish to be in, I bunch poles tight,” he says. “If I’m trying to cover more area on a shallow flat, I set them farther apart.”
For pushing a single 1/16-ounce jig on 6-pound line in the lily pads, Capps uses 16-foot B’n’M jig poles (model BGJP163). “I get more bites having my baits farther from me with 16-foot poles than I do with 14-footers,” he says, also noting that 16-footers allow him to cover a wider swath of water. Extra length also keeps his jigs farther from the boat, away from trolling motor noise that could spook shallow fish.
Huckabee’s Suspenders
Riprap and breakline trolling
Oklahoma guide and tournament competitor Todd Huckabee prefers single-pole fishing whenever possible. But there are certain conditions when he resorts to spider-rigging, such as during the postspawn on his home waters of Lake Eufaula when crappies pull off the bank and suspend 2 to 6 feet deep over riprap and breaklines in the depth range of 10 to 15 feet.
Four-rod Perotti-Bilt rod holders are Huckabee’s choices for spider-rigging. “They are simple and sturdy,” he says. “When a fish hammers one pole, the other three don’t shake — you can tell which pole got the bite.” He mounts his rod holders on each side of the boat’s bow, positioning the rods about 2 feet off the floor. “I want rods set where I can reach over and set the hook quickly, without having to bend over too far,” he says.
His choices for spider-rigging poles are 11-footers with plenty of backbone. “When I get bit I can pull the fish up with that pole in between all the other poles.” he says. Huckabee sometimes varies his presentation between minnow rigs and tandem-jig rigs, but most of the time he spider-rigs with two jigs of varying colors.
Morrow’s Crank-Pushing
Pushing crankbaits
Pushing crankbaits in front of his boat has become an effective spider-rigging trick for Barry Morrow. The tournament competitor and guide rigs each 11-foot pole with a 2- to 3-ounce egg weight, glass bead, and swivel, followed by a Lindy Shadling crankbait on a 3-foot leader. When he fishes tournaments with a partner, Morrow pushes crankbaits with 8 rods, starting with 2 pointing straight out the nose of the boat and the other 6 spread about 2 feet apart on the port and starboard sides.
Morrow also uses 4-pole Perotti-Bilt holders that allow him to easily adjust the rod positions. “I like to have a rod rack that is adjustable vertically as well as horizontally,” he says. Wind and wave action usually dictate how high he positions his rods over the water. He says the lower the better, preferring to keep rod tips about 3 inches above the water.
The next time you see a spider-rigging setup, you might be able to decode their fishing situation. Or someone might be studying your boat, trying to unravel the crappie-catching web you’re weaving.
Splitting wood is a common task for homeowners who use wood for heat or various outdoor projects. Having the right tools for the job is essential, and one of the most critical tools is a splitting axe. A maul or splitting axe is ideal for larger logs and hardwoods, while a splitting maul is better for knotty or thick wood. A traditional axe offers versatility and precision for smaller logs or softer wood, and a double-bit axe is less commonly used for wood splitting. In this blog, we will explore the different types of axes available for splitting wood and help you determine which is best suited for your needs.
A splitting axe is a heavy, wedge-shaped axe for splitting wood. It typically has a long handle, usually between 28-36 inches, and a heavy head, weighing up to 10 pounds. The head is often wider and flatter than a traditional axe, with a blunt, rounded edge designed to deliver maximum force and easily split wood. The long handle provides leverage, allowing you to generate more power with each swing and split wood more efficiently.
A maul, or splitting axe, is ideal for splitting larger, hardwood logs that are difficult to handle with a regular axe. The weight and wedge-shaped head make it effective for splitting wood along the grain, allowing you to separate logs into smaller pieces with minimal effort. Due to its weight and size, it may not be suitable for smaller logs or tasks that require more precision.
Splitting Maul
A splitting maul is another type of axe for splitting wood. It looks similar to a splitting axe, with a heavy head and a long handle, but it typically has a more pronounced wedge shape with a sharper edge. The sharp edge allows the splitting maul to penetrate the wood more easily, making it suitable for splitting logs with knots or thicker boards.
A splitting maul is ideal for splitting large logs or logs with knots that may be challenging to cut with a regular axe. The sharp edge helps create a clean split, and the head provides the necessary force to split the wood effectively. Like the maul or splitting axe, a splitting maul may not be as suitable for smaller logs or tasks.
Traditional Axe
A traditional axe, also known as a felling axe or a chopping axe, is a versatile tool that can be used for several tasks, including splitting wood. It typically has a shorter handle, usually 24-28 inches, and a narrower, sharper head than a maul or splitting axe. The head is designed for cutting across the grain rather than splitting along the grain.
A traditional axe can split smaller logs or softer wood with more precision than a maul or splitting axe. Due to its smaller size and narrower head, it may require more effort and multiple swings to split larger logs or hardwoods.
Double-bit Axe
A double-bit axe has two cutting edges on the same head, with a blade on each side of the axe. This axe is less commonly used for splitting wood and is typically used in forestry or logging applications. The double-bit design allows for versatility in cutting from both sides, but it may not be as efficient or suitable for splitting wood as other types of axes.
Safety Considerations
Remember to prioritize safety when using an axe for wood splitting. Wear appropriate protective gear such as gloves, safety goggles, and sturdy footwear. Properly maintain your axe by keeping it sharp and in good condition. Always use proper technique and caution when swinging the axe to avoid injury.
Conclusion
Ultimately, the best type of axe for splitting wood will depend on your specific needs, the wood you are working with, and your personal preference. Consider the size and type of logs you will be splitting, as well as your physical ability and comfort level with different types of axes. With the right axe and proper technique, you can make wood splitting a breeze and enjoy the benefits of a well-stocked woodpile for your heating or outdoor projects.
When it comes to hunting, a .22 caliber rifle is definitely a must-own gun. I myself bought a .22 caliber rifle after my friend taught me how to shoot on his. This gun truly is perfect for beginners who want to learn how to shoot a rifle, and for hunting newbies.
But what can you hunt with a .22 caliber rifle? You’d be surprised as to what this gun is capable of. It can let you take down several targets, and help you become a well-experience marksman in no time.
What Can You Hunt With A .22 Caliber Rifle: All You Need To Know
Why A .22 Caliber Rifle Is Perfect For Hunting
A .22 Caliber rifle is definitely the go-to gun for anyone who is new to hunting. If you have no experience whatsoever when it comes to shooting a rifle, then this one should have the first trigger you should pull.
But what exactly makes the .22 caliber rifle the best gun for hunting newbies? Here are a couple of reasons why the .22 caliber rifle has earned its spot as the go-to gun for hunting.
Weight
A simple .22 caliber rifle is very easy to handle because of its light weight. This means that beginners who don’t know how to aim yet will not suffer from restless arms that most hunters feel when carrying a heavy gun while following their target.
Recoil
You know what I hate about guns? A strong recoil that honestly hurts the shoulders. With a .22 caliber rifle, you wouldn’t have to feel nervous before pulling the trigger because there’s no painful recoil to anticipate. A .22 caliber rifle practically has no recoil, making it easy for you to aim and shoot.
Ammo
What’s great about .22 caliber rounds is that they’re very light and really affordable. With a .22 caliber rifle, you would be able to go hunting carrying thousands of rounds with ease.
What’s more is that .22 caliber rounds don’t require much energy to be shot. This means that your gun can take a shot that’s not as loud as other guns.
Shooting Distance
With the right accessories, and with enough experience, you can effectively shoot a target at distances that can reach up to 440 yards.
However, shooting a large animal at such a great distance may not be effective enough to get you the kill, but it will surely injure the animal bad enough to slow It down.
What Animals Can You Hunt With A .22 Caliber Rifle
Sine the .22 caliber rifle isn’t as powerful as larger hunting rifles, it can only be used for hunting game animals. You can easily take down winged game animals such as small birds like quails, larger birds including pheasant, partridge, grouse, woodcock, duck, and goose.
The .22 caliber is also great for hunting small ground game animals such as rabbit, hare, and squirrel. And with enough skills when it comes to aiming, you can easily take down larger ground game animals as well including wild boar, deer, venison, and roebuck.
The Best .22 Caliber Rifle For Beginners
If you want to purchase a .22 caliber rifle for hunting, I recommend going with the 10/22 Ruger. This .22 caliber rifle is fairly simple and easy to use because of its light body that can provide you with a short learning curve.
The 10/22 Ruger is also very affordable, making it a great first gun. And like I have mentioned before, a gun like this has very affordable ammo. This means that you can buy plenty of ammo for target practice.
What’s more is that this gun can be equipped with coffin and drum magazines capable of accommodating 25 to 110 rounds of ammo.
However, if you’re a beginner, I suggest you get yourself a nice 25 round magazine so you wouldn’t have to carry much weight.
Another great thing about the 10/22 Ruger is that you can easily tweak this machine with a set of simple tools. You can easily add accessories and replace its parts all on your own.
There’s also a plethora of aftermarket accessories and parts for the ruger 10/22 including various barrel lengths and styles. This means that you can easily customize this gun to fit your preference.
A Quick Recap
A .22 caliber rifle is a great gun for you if you are new to hunting. It is very light, simple to use, has affordable and lightweight rounds, can easily be put together and taken apart, and can shoot a variety of game animals even at long distances.
Needless to say, with enough practice, you can easily become a great marksman by starting out with a fine .22 caliber rifle.
Thanks to our original guest poster for this article!
As per studies, traffic accidents with moose are 13 times more fatal than that with other deers. Each year, more than 500 car accidents occur with moose in northern New England. The injuries sustained by people involved in the accidents were far more serious and fatal due to the weight and height of the Moose. This is a serious issue that has also been reported in Canada and Scandinavian countries.
The moose is the largest and heaviest living member of the deer family. When a vehicle crashed into a moose, it hits its long legs, leading the bulk of the animal into the windshield and roof. You might wonder how tall is a moose and may try to comprehend how big is a moose, which makes it so dangerous in road accidents. When you are aware of its height and mass, you will definitely avoid confronting it when you are traveling north or when camping in the wood. This article will give you a clear picture of its height and size along with visual comparisons.
According to National Geographic, it is 5 to 6.5 feet tall at the shoulders.
The average height of adult moose at the shoulder ranges from 4 feet 7 inches to 6 feet 11 inches (1.4 to 2.1 meters).
The Alaskan subspecies (A. a. gigas) is the largest, and so the tallest, among all the races. It stands over 6 feet 11 inches (2.1 meters) tall at the shoulder.
How Big Is A Moose
Moose is the biggest species in the family of deer.
They have 5 to 6.5 feet height at the shoulders.
Their head and body are 7 feet 10 inches to 10 feet 2 inches (2.4 to 3.1 meters) long, while their vestigial tail is further 5 to 12 cm long.
Males are heavier than females. Males (bulls) usually weigh from 380 to 700 kg (838 to 1,543 lbs), while females (cows) weigh from 200 to 490 kg (441 to 1,080 lbs). The weight of an individual depends on race or cline, age, and nutritional variations. National Geographic describes their weight as 1800 lbs.
The Alaskan subspecies (A. a. gigas) is the biggest of all the moose subspecies, which has a 2.1-meter height at the shoulders, a 1.8-meter span of the antlers, and an average bodyweight of 634.5 kg (1,399 lbs) for males and 478 kg (1,054 lbs) for females.
How Big Can A Moose Get
The recorded biggest moose was an Alaskan moose shot in September 1897 at the Yukon River.
It was 2.33 meters (7 feet 8 inches) tall at the shoulder and weighed 820 kg (1,808 lbs).
There have been reports of even bigger individuals, including a male killed in 2004 that weighed 1,043 kg (2,299 lbs), and another male whose weight was reported as 1,180 kg (2,601 lbs). However, these reports were considered unauthentic.
How Tall Can A Moose Get
The Alaskan moose shot in September 1897 at the Yukon River was the tallest individual.
It was 2.33 meters (7 feet 8 inches) tall from hoof to shoulder.
How Tall Is A Moose Compared To A Human – How Big Is A Moose Compared To A Person
When compared with humans, a moose is much taller than even the tallest humans in the world. Robert Wadlow of the United States was the tallest human ever at 8 feet 11-inch height.
A moose is up to 6.5 feet tall at the shoulder, while an adult male human has an average height of 5 foot 7.5 inches.
The Alaskan moose is more than 7 feet taller at the shoulder.
When head and antlers are also measured, their total height reaches more than 10 feet.
Even the tallest human can not stand eye to eye with a moose with a raised head.
How Big Is A Moose Compared To A Car
The body length of an Alaskan moose is around 9.2 feet. It stands 6.5 to 7 feet tall at the shoulder. A moose has a body weight of around 618 kg (1800 lbs) according to National Geographic.
An average size Corolla Altis car is about 15.16 feet long, 5.82 feet wide, and has about 4.84 feet in height. It weighs up to 1220 kg.
So when a moose is compared to a car, a moose is taller and heavier than a car. But a car is longer and wider than a moose. So we can say that a moose is bigger than an average size Corolla Altis car.
How Big Is A Moose Compared To A Horse
Let’s compare a moose to a horse.
According to National Geographic, the height of a moose at the shoulders ranges from 5 to 6.5 feet, while the height of a horse at the shoulders ranges from 2.5 to 5.8 feet.
A full-grown moose has a bodyweight of up to 1,800 pounds, while a horse has from 120 to 2,200 pounds.
So in terms of size, a moose is bigger than a horse. And in terms of weight, a horse is bigger than a moose.
How Big Is A Full Grown Moose
On average, a full-grown moose stands 5 to 6.5 feet tall at the shoulders and weighs up to 1,800 pounds.
Different subspecies have different sizes and weights. Age and nutritional variations also affect their size and weight.
The Ussuri, Amur, or Manchurian subspecies (A. a. cameloides) is the smallest subspecies. Their full-grown individuals (both male and female) have 5 feet 5 inches to 6 feet 1 inch (1.65 to 1.85 meter) height at the shoulders and weigh between 200 to 250 kg (441 to 772 lbs).
The Alaskan subspecies is the largest of all the subspecies and the largest deer in the world. A full-grown Alaskan moose has 6.9 feet (2.1 meters) height at the shoulders, 5.9 feet (1.8 meters) span of the antlers, and an average bodyweight of 634.5 kg (1,399 lbs) for males and 478 kg (1,054 lbs) for females.
The other seven subspecies are of middle size with an average height of 5 to 6.5 feet at the shoulders and a weight range of 320 to 725 kg (705 to 1,598 lbs).
How Tall Is The Tallest Moose
The tallest moose was an Alaskan moose shot in September 1897 at the Yukon River. It had a hoof to shoulder height of 2.33 meters (7 feet 8 inches).
How Big Are Moose Antlers
Male moose (bull) have prominent antlers on the head.
Their antlers grow in the form of cylindrical beams projected on both sides of the head at right angles to the middle of the skull and then forks.
The growth rate and size of their antlers depend on their diet and age, while the symmetry of their antlers shows their health.
The antlers of mature bulls have a length between 4 to 5 feet (1.2 to 1.5 meters), a spread of 6 feet from end to end, and weigh around 18 kg (40 lbs).
The antlers of a full-grown Alaskan moose of 5 to 12 years of age have a span of more than 79 inches (200 cm). As they grow older, the size and symmetry of their antlers reduce.
The recorded widest span of the moose antlers was 83 inches (210 cm).
The recorded heaviest antlers were of an Alaskan moose, which weighed 36 kg (79 lbs).
How Tall Is A Moose With Antlers
The antlers of a moose are long from 4 to 5 feet (1.2 to 1.5 meters).
With head and antlers, a moose stands more than 10 feet tall.
How Tall Is A Full Grown Male Moose
A full-grown male moose (bull) stands an average of 6 feet tall at the shoulders.
A full-grown male Alaskan moose is 6 feet 11 inches tall from hoof to shoulders. With its head and antlers, it stands more than 10 feet tall.
If you are a Moose lover and a creative person. Apart from learning more about them, you can also leave their footprints in your life. You can turn your favorite moose lookalikes into gifts that you can carry with you at all times and keep forever by designing them yourself, such as enamel pins or keychains. Customize your favorite moose into a cute pin that you can wear as an accessory to express your personality, or give as a gift and collect as a souvenir. At GS-JJ.com, any design and style can be freely selected, come and have a look!
The perfect airgun is a difficult pick when you are new to gun-hunting.
There are a lot of things to keep in mind, starting from technicalities to their functionality.
Once you have decided on what your budget is going to be, there is also the problem of the power source for the rifle that needs to be taken care of.
Buyers usually have the most problems regarding this aspect.
Before, the gas piston gun is among the favorite. However, recently PCPs or Pre-Charged Pneumatics have started becoming more popular than their rival rifle.
So which one is the better option?
Luckily, this article will explain how you need to go about gun buying, the pros, and cons of both types, and some things you need to consider before becoming a rifle owner.
The gas piston is a more advanced version of its earliest gun ancestor, the spring-piston gun.
It is more sophisticated than the latter with its autoloading technology and gas-operating system.
The gas piston is powered by a gas-filled cylinder present in the chamber of the gun from where the gas goes off through a tiny hole present at the top of the barrel.
Here is exactly how the gas piston works:
Upon cocking the gun, the gas cylinder gets more compressed by the pressurized air in the gas cylinder.
Since the air inside is compressed at very high tension and pressure, upon releasing the trigger, the pellet is forced out of the gun through pressurized air.
This mechanism is faster as compared to its older version and has proved beneficial due to its automated reloading.
What are PCPs and How Do They Work?
Pre-Charged Pneumatics or PCP air rifles use compressed air stored in built-in air tanks as the propellant to fire pellets. This may sound similar to what a gas piston works like, so to understand the mechanics of PCPs, here is exactly how their firing procedure works:
The air inside the PCP air tanks is compressed to about 2700-3000 pounds per square inch using a hand pump, or other pumping devices, such as air compressors or carbon fiber tanks. When filled to the correct pressure, it is ready to fire.
The trigger is directly connected to a valve from which a small amount of air is released upon squeezing it.
Air pressure pushes the pellet out through the barrel and then out of the gun.
With each shot, pressure is reduced along with the amount of air in the tank which needs to be refilled after it has completely been exhausted.
Since PCP works with air pressure, it does not fire accurate shots when low on air pressure as it needs to be recharged to get optimum firing capability.
This may vary according to different companies and models, but a good, average PCPs can shoot somewhere up to 30 – 400 shots before you will need to recharge it.
PCP vs Gas Piston (Main Differences)
The main difference between a PCP vs a gas piston air rifle is the advancement in its structure.
While gas pistons are almost the same as their spring gun relatives, the only difference is that instead of a spring, there is a gas-filled cylinder. Alternatively, PCP has compressed gas already stored within the cylinder which does not require frequent reloading.
Power
Though both the guns work on the same air compressing system, it is no doubt that when it comes to PCP vs gas piston air guns, then PCP is more powerful in comparison.
A gas piston can offer around 1000 ft/s velocity. This means that for .22 caliber pellets, the velocity will be near 850 ft/s.
You will certainly be able to get pre-charged pneumatics in small calibers, but they come into their own in larger sizes as well. From .30 up to .50, these PCP rifles are available from several manufacturers with energies above 200 ft-lbs.
There is a certain belief that there is no recoil when a PCP is shot. However, the recoil is present when you shoot from a PCP. But, the impact is certainly lesser than that of a gas piston. This greatly affects the accuracy of the guns.
Upon firing, you must allow the gas piston to complete the recoil phase and come to rest in the original position it was in before. This is the only way it will be truly accurate. You have to make sure that your grip is gentle as well as the same for every shot that is taken. Once mastered, gas pistons can be extremely accurate.
Meanwhile, when using a PCP, recoil is minimal and the shooter has the freedom to choose different sorts of holds without being worried about the pellet misfiring as long as their head and eye position remain constant throughout.
Noise Level
In the noise department, the PCP vs gas piston pellet gun is sort of useless as both are noise-friendly guns – in the sense, they do not make much noise.
Gas piston guns often come with a ‘Sound Suppression Technology” which is built in to dampen the noise from the gun. A fluted shroud is used to keep the gas chambers enclosed which keeps the sound from escaping, reducing noise significantly.
PCP air guns, being the advanced predecessor of guns, are also built to be quiet compared to other rifles. Since it produces very little recoil, the sound is also at a minimum.
Upkeep Cost
Being newer gun models, it is certain that PCP guns cost more than gas pistons. The starting price range of a decent one will begin from $400.
You also need to keep in mind the additional expenditure that will follow for your PCP gun’s maintenance.
Refilling the air cylinders can get quite heavy on the pockets as prices start at $200 and go upwards. Getting a stirrup pump that starts at 100$ is a more economical option that can save you the extra expense of refills with the only downside being that it is a laborious job.
Gas pistons on the other hand are much cheaper and you can get one of the better ones with even the upper limit being just $200. Little to no maintenance is required apart from the usual cleaning and loading, but it can be expensive to get it fixed.
PCP Vs Gas Piston – Which One Is Better for Pest Control?
Gas pistons have a recoil and grip system. Not being very different from spring air guns, they need control to shoot accurately. The noise-suppressing system is a great advantage for pest control which requires stealth and silence.
It is obvious that PCP guns, being soundless and with no grip and position requirements, are the more comfortable options out of the two. But, they are unnecessarily high maintenance for a rifle just there for normal pest control.
Considering that both PCP guns and gas pistons are good picks for those who want to avoid noise and not scare off pests, the debate on which one is great for killing little critters comes down to just the prices.
Personally, if your gun is just for pest control and safety, gas pistons that are low maintenance and cheap are the right option.
PCP vs Gas Piston – Which One Is Better for the Hunting Game?
Both PCP guns and gas pistons are equally good for hunting. With both of them making minimum sound and movement, which one is better depends on the type of hunting you are doing.
If it is just pest control or small hunting games, where things are not as serious, a gas piston will be a good option. It fits under the budget and works almost as well as a PCP.
However, if the hunt is serious, or if the situation is about saving time and energy, a PCP gun will be more advantageous as it loads quicker, is silent, as well as far more accurate.
Gun enthusiasts, just like fans of any other machinery, will tend to prefer the newer models that are built lighter and more efficiently. However, guns are also instruments with their little tweaks and treasures. So, to find one that suits you, whether an older or newer model, is completely up to what is best built for you.
You can choose a gas piston over a PCP gun if:
You are a beginner at guns and hunting and want something that is at the same price as a traditional spring gun but also has some features of a PCP.
Your budget is not very high and money is a priority.
Your main use of the gun is going to be simple hunting games, pest control, and the occasional shooting.
You need a gun that can be kept around the house without any risk of high maintenance.
A pre-charged pneumatic gun would be the correct option for you if:
You have quality as your priority and do not have many limitations to your budget.
You want to go for professional hunting which may require a lot of time and energy.
You do not want to deal with the hassle of a steady grip and recoil while shooting.
You are experienced with guns and will have no problems maintaining them.
Carp taste like tilapia, only cleaner and better! They are also much less fishy than whiting. I compare it to these fish because they can be bought in most supermarkets so many Americans have had them.
In fact carp are one of the most commonly eaten freshwater fish around the world. Everywhere except for the US that is…
I’m not entirely sure why we in the US don’t see carp as edible. It may be because we have such an abundance of red meat and chicken, or because we have easy access to salmon (which is pretty dang good).
I have spent a number of years living in Asian countries where I ate carp quite often. Honestly, it tastes really good. It’s comparable to any other white fish I have eaten such as tilapia. In fact I’d say carp taste cleaner than most farmed tilapia.
For one, carp are big fish with a lot of meat on them. Most carp caught in the US will average somewhere around 10 pounds. Some carp can grow to over 40 pounds!
If you have ever caught and eaten a trout, then you know that the ratio of meat to everything else is usually pretty small. An average trout of say 12 inches will only have enough meat for a few bites. But a small carp of 5 pounds can feed two or three people.
Carp eat a variety of things from vegetation to crawfish to mussels. The best tasting carp will be ones that have spent their life in clean water lakes with an abundance of crawfish and insects.
What Might Make Carp Bad Eating
Since common carp eat just about anything, they spend a lot of time sifting through the silted lake and river bottoms. This can effect the taste of the carp to have a slight muddy taste.
The best way to reduce the muddy taste in a carp is to bleed it or fillet it immediately after killing it. If you don’t do this, the blood will stay in the meat, giving it a muddy taste.
Another thing people don’t like about carp is how boney they are. A fillet of carp will still have a number of Y-bones in it. However, these are easy to remove after the fish is cooked.
Tasty Species of Carp
There are many species of carp around the world. However I’m going to give an overview of the most common carp in the US, and how they taste.
Eating Common Carp
The common carp is the one most people think of when they hear the word carp. They have dark olive/brown backs with beautiful golden sides.
Other than their color difference, they look pretty much the same as the Koi you might find in a garden pond.
Their mouth is on the underside of their head and eat mostly off the bottom. Their diet is made up of the widest range of foods as far as carp go.
Common carp may not be the best tasting carp, but they still taste great. Many people in the southern US, love to both catch and eat common carp.
These carp aren’t native to the US. In fact they were brought here as a food source by many early settlers. As the pioneers moved west, so did the common carp. So we originally brought them here for food, but somewhere along the way we stopped eating them and they became forgotten.
Eating Grass Carp
Grass carp (aka white amur) are often stocked on ponds and canals as a means of weed control. As their name suggests, grass carp eat mainly vegetation. They were brought to the US in the 1960s and stocked in ponds to keep down the grass, weeds, and algae.
If you live in an area with a large population of Asian immigrants then you might even be able to find grass carp for sale in the grocery stores.
Like the common carp (or any fish for that matter), the taste will greatly depend on the quality of the water they were harvested from. If they were raised in a muddy fish pond, then they’re probably going to taste a little muddy…
However, if they are caught in clean water, and raised on natural greens, then they will have a very clean taste.
Eating Big Head Carp
Big head carp are a little on the funny looking side if you ask me. They have big mouths on the front of their head like grass carp, but their eyes are located far down the sides of their heads and even below their mouth line.
Big head carp are filter feeders. They swim through the water with their mouths open filtering out plankton and other food.
These carp are actually one of the favorite menu items in Asia. The cheek meat in particular is considered a delicacy.
These carp can also be found for sale in Asian grocers and they taste amazing!
Eating Silver Carp
The silver carp is another Asian carp that was brought to the US in the mid 1900s. Since then, the silver carp have escaped and spread through Midwest rivers like a wild fire. They are probably the biggest nuisance fish in the US.
Silver fish have the terrible trait of jumping 5 to 10 feet out of the water when scared. This means that when a motor boat is driving up the river, silver carp will be jumping all around, sometimes landing in the boat, or smacking people in the face. It may sound funny, but that’s a 20 to 30 pound fish hitting you at 30+ mph!
Since these carp reproduce in such great numbers, they are popular with fish farms in Asia. Being that these carp are also filter feeders, they taste great as long as they weren’t farmed in a muddy fish pond.
How to Prepare Carp For Eating
Since it isn’t popular to eat carp in the US, you probably won’t find it in your grocery store. But if you have any Asian markets near you, you can try those.
For most people, the best way to get a carp for eating is to go fishing. Besides… fishing is the fun part!
If you want to learn how to catch a carp check out this page, How To Catch Carp!
1. Kill The Carp
You can kill carp by hitting them hard on the head with a rock or a fish bonker.
2. Bleed It
If you aren’t going to fillet the fish right away, then it’s important to bleed it out. If you don’t bleed it out, the blood will remain in the meat and give the fish a muddy taste.
To bleed a carp, cut out the gills and put it head down in a bucket of water for around 10 minutes.
3. Scale The Carp
Scaling the carp is optional. It depends on whether you want to eat the skin or not. If you don’t want to eat the skin, then don’t worry about scaling it. Just fillet the meat off the skin.
To scale the fish I like to use the back edge of my knife blade. Just scrape the scales off from the tail towards the head.
With the scales out of the way, it’s a little easier to fillet.
4. Fillet The Meat Off
There are many ways to cut up a carp. But to keep things simple, fillet it just the same as you would a trout.
Cut down right along the edge of the spine from the head towards the tail. Then cut right along the ribs from the back down to the belly, carefully separating the meat from off the rib bones.
I recommend watching a few YouTube videos about it. It’ll be much easier to understand by watching it.
And there is another video showing a more complex way of doing it, but at the same time you keep a lot more meat!
5. Cool The Fillets
Keep the fillets cool until it is time to cook them. You can put them in a cooler of ice, or straight into the fridge or freezer.
6. Cook The Carp
There are many recipes out there for carp. Most of the recipes will be from the Asian continent. So if you like Chinese food, then this is good news for you!
Here is a website I found that has a list of shared carp recipes. The website is CookPad.com
More on Carp
If you would like to learn more about carp and their history, then read on, or check out my other pages about what carp eat, how big carp get, or how to catch carp.
Learn how to bypass a PTO (Power Take-Off) switch on your lawn mower effortlessly with our step-by-step guide. Increase your control over the mower’s blades and eliminate unnecessary restrictions, allowing for a smoother mowing experience. Discover the simple yet effective methods to ensure uninterrupted operation while maintaining utmost safety.
The Importance of Not Bypassing a PTO Switch on a Lawn Mower: Safety First
Why is the PTO switch important?
The Power Take Off (PTO) switch on a lawn mower serves as a crucial safety feature. Its primary function is to prevent the blades from turning when the operator dismounts the mower. This ensures that there are no accidental injuries caused by the blades while the operator is not in control of the machine. By bypassing this switch, you are putting yourself at risk of serious injury or even death.
The risks of bypassing the PTO switch
Bypassing the PTO switch on a lawn mower can have severe consequences. When you bypass this safety feature, you eliminate the protection it provides and increase the chances of accidents occurring. If someone were to accidentally engage the blades while standing near or working on the mower, they could be seriously injured by the rotating blades. Additionally, if you bypass the PTO switch and forget to disengage it before stepping off or away from the mower, it can lead to dangerous situations where others may come into contact with the running blades unknowingly.
It is important to remember that manufacturers include safety features like the PTO switch for a reason – to protect operators and those around them from harm. Therefore, it is always recommended to consult your manufacturer’s manual or seek professional help if you encounter any issues with your PTO switch rather than attempting to bypass it yourself.
Alternative solutions
If you are facing problems with your PTO switch, there are alternative solutions available that do not compromise safety. Consulting your manufacturer’s manual or contacting a professional for repair or replacement is always advised. They will have expert knowledge and experience in dealing with such issues and can ensure that your lawn mower operates safely.
Remember, safety should always be prioritized when operating machinery, and bypassing safety features like the PTO switch is never a recommended solution. It is better to address any issues with the switch through proper channels to ensure the well-being of both the operator and others in the vicinity.
Troubleshooting a Faulty PTO Switch on Your Lawn Mower: Expert Advice
1. Understanding the Importance of the PTO Switch
The Power Take Off (PTO) switch on a lawn mower is a crucial safety feature that should not be bypassed. It is designed to prevent the blades from turning when the operator dismounts the mower, reducing the risk of serious injury or even death. By bypassing this feature, you are compromising your safety and potentially endangering yourself and others. It is always recommended to consult the manufacturer’s manual or seek professional help if you encounter any issues with your PTO switch.
2. Proper Troubleshooting Steps
If you are experiencing problems with your PTO switch, it is important to follow proper troubleshooting steps before considering any workarounds or replacements. Start by checking for any loose connections or damaged wires around the switch. Clean any debris or dirt that may be obstructing its functionality. If these basic checks do not resolve the issue, consult your mower’s operation manual or contact a professional for further guidance.
3. Replacing a Faulty PTO Switch
If it is determined that your PTO switch needs replacement, it is essential to ensure that you choose a suitable replacement part. Look for original factory parts if available, but if not, make sure that any alternative switch can handle the required amperage of your mower. Engaging in trial and error with different switches can lead to further complications and potential damage to your equipment.
Remember, prioritizing safety should always be paramount when dealing with lawn mower components like the PTO switch. It is strongly advised against attempting to fool or bypass this safety feature as it can have severe consequences. Seek professional help whenever necessary and follow proper troubleshooting procedures outlined by manufacturers for optimal results and long-term reliability.
Exploring Alternative Solutions to Bypassing a PTO Switch on Your Lawn Mower
1. Consulting the manufacturer’s manual or contacting a professional
If you are having trouble with the PTO switch on your lawn mower, it is always best to consult the manufacturer’s manual or contact a professional for repair or replacement. They have the expertise and knowledge to properly diagnose and fix any issues with the switch. This ensures that your lawn mower remains safe and in good working condition.
2. Understanding the safety implications
It is important to recognize that bypassing a PTO switch can lead to serious injury or even death. The purpose of this safety feature is to prevent the blades from turning when the operator dismounts the mower. By bypassing this feature, you are compromising your own safety as well as those around you. It is crucial to prioritize safety and follow proper procedures when operating any machinery.
3. Exploring alternative troubleshooting methods
If you are unable to consult a professional or find a suitable replacement switch, there are some alternative troubleshooting methods you can try. One option is to locate the safety switch on your mower and attempt to fool it using duct tape. By closing the switch, you can make the mower think that it is still on the seat or that the pedal is pushed in.
However, it is important to note that not all mowers will allow for this type of manipulation, especially newer models with CPUs (central processing units). In such cases, attempting to bypass the switch may not be possible or advisable.
Another alternative method is using jumper wires to wire around the switch. By connecting the two leads together, you can engage the power take off (PTO) function as a way of testing if the switch itself is faulty. However, this should only be done as a temporary solution until a proper replacement switch can be obtained.
It is crucial to remember that bypassing the PTO switch should only be done as a last resort and with extreme caution. The best course of action is to always replace a faulty switch with a new one, ensuring that it can handle the amperage required for your mower’s operation. This guarantees both the safety and optimal functionality of your lawn mower.
Testing and Replacing a Defective PTO Switch on Your Lawn Mower: Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Safety First
Before attempting to test or replace a defective PTO switch on your lawn mower, it is important to prioritize safety. Make sure the mower is turned off and the engine is cool. Disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent accidental starting. Wear protective gloves and eyewear throughout the process.
Step 2: Locate the PTO Switch
Refer to your lawn mower’s manual or online resources to identify the location of the PTO switch. It is typically located near the operator’s seat or on the control panel. Take note of any specific instructions provided by the manufacturer regarding accessing and handling the switch.
Step 3: Testing with Jumper Wires
To test if the PTO switch is defective, you can use jumper wires to bypass it temporarily. Carefully connect two jumper wires between the terminals or wires connected to the PTO switch. This should engage the power take off. If it works, it indicates a faulty switch that needs replacement.
Step 4: Choosing a Replacement Switch
If your PTO switch is indeed defective, it is important to choose a suitable replacement. Look for an original factory part if available, but ensure that any alternative switch you choose can handle the amperage required by your mower.
Step 5: Removing and Installing New Switch
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions or refer to your lawn mower’s manual for guidance on removing and installing a new PTO switch. Typically, this involves disconnecting any electrical connections, removing mounting screws, replacing with a new switch, and reattaching all connections securely.
Step 6: Testing After Replacement
After installing the new PTO switch, reconnect the spark plug wire and turn on the mower. Test if the power take off engages and disengages properly. If everything functions as expected, you have successfully replaced the defective PTO switch.
Remember, bypassing or tampering with a PTO switch is not recommended due to safety concerns. It is always best to consult the manufacturer’s manual or seek professional assistance for any repairs or replacements on your lawn mower.
Understanding the Risks of Bypassing a PTO Switch on Your Lawn Mower
Bypassing a PTO (Power Take Off) switch on a lawn mower can have serious consequences and should be avoided. The PTO switch is designed as a safety feature to prevent the blades from turning when the operator dismounts the mower. By bypassing this switch, you are removing an important safety mechanism that could lead to injury or even death.
The PTO switch works by detecting whether the operator is still on the seat or if the pedal is pushed in. If you bypass the switch, you are essentially fooling the mower into thinking that it is still on the seat or that the pedal is engaged. While this may seem like a quick fix, it can be extremely dangerous.
One way to bypass the switch is by using duct tape to close the circuit and make the mower think that it is still on the seat or that the pedal is pushed in. However, this method is not recommended as it can easily fail and put you at risk of injury. It is always best to consult your manufacturer’s manual or contact a professional for repair or replacement of the PTO switch.
In conclusion, bypassing a PTO switch on your lawn mower should not be attempted as it poses significant risks to your safety. It is important to understand and respect these safety features in order to prevent accidents and ensure proper functioning of your equipment. Always consult professionals for any issues with your lawn mower’s PTO switch and follow manufacturer guidelines for repairs or replacements.
Finding the Right Replacement for a Faulty PTO Switch on Your Lawn Mower
If you are experiencing issues with the PTO switch on your lawn mower, it is important to find the right replacement in order to ensure proper functioning and safety. Here are some steps to help you find the correct replacement:
1. Consult the Manufacturer’s Manual
The first step is to consult the manufacturer’s manual that came with your lawn mower. This manual will provide detailed information about the specific model of your mower and may include instructions on how to replace or repair the PTO switch. It may also provide recommendations for compatible replacement switches.
2. Contact a Professional
If you are unsure about how to proceed or if you are unable to find the necessary information in the manual, it is best to contact a professional for assistance. They will have experience working with different lawn mower models and can guide you through the process of finding and installing a suitable replacement switch.
3. Research Online
Another option is to research online for information about your specific lawn mower model and its compatible replacement parts. Many manufacturers have websites where you can search for parts by entering your mower’s model number. Additionally, there are numerous forums and communities dedicated to lawn mower enthusiasts who may be able to offer advice or recommendations based on their own experiences.
Once you have obtained a suitable replacement switch, it is important to follow proper installation procedures outlined in the manufacturer’s manual or seek professional assistance if needed. Remember, bypassing or tampering with safety features can lead to serious injury or even death, so it is crucial to prioritize safety when dealing with any electrical components on your lawn mower.
In conclusion, finding the right replacement for a faulty PTO switch on your lawn mower requires careful research and consideration. Consulting the manufacturer’s manual, contacting a professional, and conducting online research are all viable options to help you locate a compatible replacement switch. Prioritize safety and follow proper installation procedures to ensure the continued safe operation of your lawn mower.
In conclusion, bypassing a PTO switch on a lawn mower can be done by following a simple process. However, it is important to note that tampering with the safety feature may lead to potential accidents or damage to the machine. Therefore, it is advised to consult a professional or manufacturer for guidance before attempting any modifications.
Let’s look at some of the methods that can aid in getting rid of the squirrels:
Repellants
If you visit any pet store you can be sure to get a repellant that gets rid of squirrels.
Apply them to the bark of the trees in the backyard for the squirrels to sniff as they come to steal your birdseed.
Pros
Cons
Cheap to procure
Easy to use
Washes away with the rain
The repellants may affect some other pets like dogs and cats
Bottle-spraying individual trees is tiresome
Trapping the squirrels
A Grey Squirrel rodent in a wire trap ready for release in another location
This is used in situations where the squirrels are not high in population.
The traps work easily because the squirrels are curious once they spot anything that resembles a hole.
They want to go through and that’s how you catch them.
Pros
Cons
Efficient if the squirrels are not densely populated
Easy method since it naturally attracts the squirrels
Some are difficult to set up
Trapping does not eliminate the squirrels
You have to check with the state laws for catch release laws
Deterrent odors
This acts as an augmentation of other methods.
If you hang ammonia bags or use cotton balls soaked in ammonia you are likely to keep the squirrels from approaching your house.
Pros
Cons
The smell keeps the squirrel away
They irritate the squirrel’s nose and eyes enough to keep them off
You have also to put up with the ugly odor yourself
It is not wise if other pets are around
Ammonia is corrosive and thus requires more attention and care
Shooting the squirrels
You only need some pellets and an airgun.
The hunting method helps you get rid of the squirrels, all sizes considered, and at any time.
Pros
Cons
The smell keeps the squirrel away
They irritate the squirrel’s nose and eyes enough to keep them off
You have also to put up with the ugly odor yourself
It is not wise if other pets are around
Ammonia is corrosive and thus requires more attention and care
In the opinion of many, shooting squirrels is great because it does not involve the use of chemicals that additionally pose danger to other animals and people.
Also, shooting directly eliminates the squirrels, rather than keeping them away.
You also get to treat yourself to a sumptuous meal if you’re feeling adventurous, provided you ascertain that the squirrel meat is safe.
Their meat is easy to prepare and could certainly make up a part of your diet .
An air gun is your go-to weapon for squirrel eradication.
Read along to find out which are the best air rifles to hunt squirrels.
With high-end features at an entry-level price, the Avenger sets a new standard for similarly priced PCPs to live up to.
Featuring an externally adjustable regulator and externally adjustable hammer spring, the Avenger provides the user with a seemingly infinite amount of performance adjustability never seen at this price point.
A smooth side lever action allows for quick follow-up shots, and the fully shrouded barrel keeps your shooting quiet. Available in .177, .22, and .25 caliber.
Features
Pre-Charged Pneumatic
Sidelever Cocking
Synthetic Stock
Externally Adjustable Regulator (Up to 3,000 PSI / 210 BAR)
Easily accessible Hammer Spring Adjustment Screw
Two-Stage Adjustable Trigger
Max Fill Pressure: 4,351 PSI (300 BAR)
Fully Shrouded Barrel
Picatinny Rail on Fore-end of stock
Holes in front and rear of stock for mounting swivel studs for a sling
Dual Gauges – Reg Pressure (RH Side) and Fill Pressure (LH Side)
The Gamo Swarm Magnum 10X GEN3i Multi-Shot Air Rifle is an ideal choice for shooters looking for an affordable break barrel airgun to take care of squirrels.
With velocities of up to 1650 FPS (with alloy) in .177 caliber, this rifle offers superior accuracy and power. Furthermore, the 10X GEN 3i Quick-Shot inertia-fed magazine makes reloading a breeze – allowing users to make 10 shots without needing to fumble with pellets.
Thanks to its IGT Mach 1 inert gas piston powerplant, you get smoother cocking than with traditional spring piston air rifles, while an adjustable two-stage Custom Action trigger offers independent adjustments of the first and second stages for travel.
Features
10X GEN3i Quick-Shot inertia-fed magazine
Break barrel
Max. velocity (.177): 1650 FPS with alloy
Max velocity (.22) 1300 fps with alloy, 975 fps with lead
The Diana RWS 460 Magnum Breakbarrel Air Rifle is an engineering masterpiece from the fabled German airgun manufacturer.
From the powerful .22 caliber spring-piston set-up to the beechwood Monte Carlo stock with the checkered forearm and pistol grip, every detail of this air rifle was meticulously considered in its design.
Each shot you take will go downrange with a whopping 900 fps velocity, ensuring precise accuracy for varmint hunting and pest control.
With only 36 lbs. cocking effort, you can comfortably spend afternoons outdoors spending your time efficiently and accurately shooting those pests away.
And with its 11mm dovetail mounting, you can rest assured that your scope won’t easily come off making it easier to get small groupings.
The RWS 460 Magnum is a break-barrel air rifle that is perfect for any outdoor enthusiast looking to stay on target every time they shoot!
Features:
Underlever action
1100 FPS (.177), 900 FPS (.22)
Loudness: 3 – medium
Single shot
Cocking effort: 36 lbs.
Blade & ramp front sight
Micrometer adjustable rear sight
11mm dovetail scope mount
Two-stage, adjustable T06 trigger
Rifled steel barrel
Ventilated rubber buttplate
3.3-lb. trigger pull
Automatic safety
Spring piston power plant
Hardwood stock
Checkered forestock and grip
Monte Carlo stock with raised right-hand cheek piece
The HW50S spring piston air rifle from Weihrauch Sport is a high-quality gun perfect for plinking and hunting small rodents. With a state-of-the-art German design and construction, this gun is built to last.
The HW50S features a precision rifled barrel, making it accurate and reliable. The rugged stock is made from durable hardwood, making it sturdy and stable.
The HW50S also has an adjustable trigger, so you can customize it to your specific needs. Whether you’re looking for a gun for plinking or hunting, the HW50S is a perfect choice.
You can easily avoid fatal accidents if you inform people.
Airguns are low-powered in comparison with other types of guns.
This makes them safe for backyard practice. But people can be scared of guns.
You should not use your hunting activity as a means to disrupt your neighbors.
If you are hunting in your backyard you should ensure you have limits for your pellets range.
You can also use a pellet backstop to keep the pellets within limits.
You can also target the clang your metal makes to avoid noise pollution.
Handle with caution
You should always treat a rifle as loaded.
To be human is to err.
You might think a rifle is not loaded and cause the worst mistake of your lifetime.
Never point a gun at any person.
Air rifles can cause considerable damage if not well handled.
Before storing your airgun, ensure it is not loaded.
This helps to avoid indecisive decisions before your hunting begins.
You can even hurt yourself if you mishandle a rifle.
Once you are out there, never load a rifle until it’s time to fire it. Before firing, ensure that you have a safe shot and no one is around or in the direction, you aim at shooting.
The elk, Cervus canadensis (formerly Cervus elaphus canadensis), is one of the largest members of the deer family. Its tracks and sign are similar to those of deer, but think larger hooves, longer strides, larger scat pellets, and look for feeding sign and antler rubs higher on trees. Identifying elk tracks and sign is essential for camera trapping the species and rutting sign is especially useful because animals tend to re-use these spots. The elk in the photo above was captured with a trail camera targeting the antler rub (see below under “rutting behavior”) because the bull was likely to return.
As members of the deer family, elk have cloven hooves. Elk tracks are larger than deer tracks and smaller than moose tracks, but overlap in size with both deer and moose tracks. However, elk tracks are noticeably rounder. Front tracks of an adult are about 4 inches long and wide. Hind tracks are smaller and narrower, about 3 1/2 inches long and 3 inches wide. Like deer and moose, elk have 2 dewclaws on each foot, situated higher up on the leg. In soft substrate or when the animal is running, hooves may splay and dewclaws may register.
Front and hind elk tracks. The larger, rounder track on the right is the front.
Elk usually travel in an alternating walk with a step length of 1 1/2 to 3 feet, and a trail width of 7-13 inches. But because they are social animals which travel in groups, you often find a mess of tracks left by multiple animals rather than a nice clear trail pattern of one individual.
Elk tracks left by multiple animals traveling together on a well-used run.
Scat
Elk excrete pellets measuring about 3/4 inch by 1/2 inch. Dry forage, commonly consumed in winter, results in discrete pellets. A diet of moist, lush vegetation results in clumped pellets or even pies.
Feeding sign
To find feeding sign, you must know the animal’s diet. In spring and summer, elk feed on grasses, sedges, forbs, aquatic plants, and leaves of trees and shrubs, such as aspens, willows, serviceberry, and chokeberry. In winter they paw through the snow for grass and eat the twigs and bark of trees, especially aspen. Grass makes up a larger portion of the elk’s diet than the deer’s or moose’s diet.
The key to find grazing and browsing sign is ragged ends: Like deer and moose, elk have lower incisors but not upper incisors, so they cannot make clean cuts through plants the way rodents and rabbits can. Instead, they tear vegetation between their lower incisors and the upper hard palate, leaving frayed ends. When consuming bark, they scrape upward with their lower incisors, often leaving frayed bark at the upper end of the scrape.
When you find ungulate feeding sign, consider the height. Deer feeding sign is usually 1-3 feet above the ground, moose sign 3-7 feet off the ground, and elk sign is in between, overlapping with both deer and moose. Snow pack allows each species to reach even higher. Obviously it’s not always possible to determine the species based solely on feeding sign, so look for scat and tracks, as well.
A grove of aspens with dark scarring where elk, and possibly deer and moose, have in previous years fed on bark by scraping with their lower incisors. The scarring goes as high as the animals can reach to feed.An aspen log with fresh sign of ungulate feeding on the bark by scraping with lower incisors.
Rutting sign
During the elk rut, spanning September and October in the north and more spread out in the south, bulls thrash and rub their antlers and foreheads on trees and shrubs, leaving behind broken branches, stripped bark, and sometimes hair. They also leave behind scent from their pre-orbital glands, thus communicating with other elk. Conifer saplings are often used, and the rubbed area is usually 2-5 feet above the ground. Bulls also create wallows in moist areas by churning up mud with hooves and/or goring with antlers. He urinates into the scrape and onto his neck and then sits down into the pit and rolls his neck, caking his mane with urine-soaked mud.
With head lowered, a bull elk approaches a conifer sapling used as an antler rub. Bulls may use the same trees repeatedly, even from year to year, so they make excellent trail camera targets. This and the lead photo of this article were captured with an Exodus Lift II trail camera.
Do you have any questions or pointers about finding or identifying elk tracks and sign? Feel free to share in a comment below.
Sources
Elbroch, M. Mammal Tracks & Sign: A Guide to North American Species. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 2003.Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation: Elk Basics.
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In essence, most cuts of meat from a wild hog are good, which makes it difficult to pick the best.
Much of the decision comes down to what you want to eat. The flavor profile is the same through most cuts, and it’s primarily textural differences that make one cut stand out above another.
Some cuts are more suited to specific tasks, like a backstrap is most suitable for jager schnitzel.
However, if I could only choose 6 cuts, these would be my choices:
Tenderloin
The tenderloin is the king of all cuts across a range of large animals, and this is no different for wild hogs.
Arguably the only cut better than the tenderloin is the fillet mignon, which of course, is actually part of the tenderloin.
However, for wild boar, I like to use the whole tenderloin.
Wild boar tenderloins are not very large but what the lack in size they make up for in texture and taste.
They are a very versatile cut of meat that can be roasted, grilled, fried, or smoked.
My favorite recipes with wild hog tenderloin are stirfry and roasted.
Because the tenderloins are not very large and extremely tender, they cook fast.
Backstrap/Loin
If the tenderloin is the best cut of meat from a wild hog, the backstrap has to be the second best.
The backstrap or loin is the long muscle that runs along the top of the back.
If you were to divide the top of a wild hog into four, it would go top of the head, blade, shoulder, loin, then leg.
The loin would be second on the scale of tenderness, only second to the tenderloin.
However, unlike venison backstrap, wild boar loin tends to be a little drier, which also makes it a little more challenging to cook.
For this reason, I recommend using a good brine if you are baking or roasting.
If you are confident in your cooking skills you can also use a marinade to add flavor and tenderize the meat a little more.
There are a plethora of dishes that you can make with wild boar loin, which is why it is on our list of best cuts.
One of my favorite dishes is a simple German dish, wild boar Jagerschnitzel.
This dish is simple to make, the meat does not dry out, and it’s tasty.
Ribs
This may be an unpopular opinion simply because of the work involved, but if you are not afraid of a little work to get some of the best flavors any wild game has to offer, then you could easily move wild boar ribs to the top of the list.
Earlier I said most cuts of wild boar meat taste the same, and the main difference is the texture and versatility; well, ribs change all that.
They are only moderately versatile but probably the most flavorful cut of meat from wild hogs.
The downside is there is a lot of work in preparing them, and there is not much meat.
Unlike your regular pork ribs, wild hog ribs have much more membrane, which is also tougher, and a lot of silver skin to contend with.
I like to treat them similarly to shanks; I sear them on the grill to get a nice char, after which I continue with whatever recipe, such as smoking, barbecuing, or simply baking.
Shank
Yet another controversial cut, the shank, makes it to the top of my list. Just like the ribs, most people aren’t willing to put in the effort for shanks, which is a shame because they really are one of the best cuts of meat.
Like the ribs, the shanks are very flavorful. Also, like the ribs, they are covered in silver skin and membrane.
The shank is an extremely tough cut of meat, but with the right approach can be turned into very tender meat.
A classic shank dish is osso buco, which is not traditionally made with wild boar, but forgive me if I say I prefer it to venison osso buco.
Another way to get fall-apart tender meat is in the pressure cooker, and you could use my venison recipe to make pulled shank tacos.
Whatever you choose to make, give it time, and you will not regret eating wild boar shanks.
Boston Butt
Another choice cut of wild hog that may not get as much love as it should is the Boston butt.
The name may be confusing because this cut of meat comes from the shoulder.
The Boston butt is from the higher part of the shoulder, above the picnic shoulder.
This is one of the best cuts for pulled wild hog. The Boston butt is typically well-marbled and tender due to its limited activity.
This cut can be used in many different ways. I have sliced and grilled it, made sausages and burgers, and made pulled pork from it.
One thing worth remembering is that it is a little on the fatty side, and most people find the taste of pork fat unpleasant.
In pulled pork, the taste may be unnoticeable, but for other dishes, you may want to cut the fat out unless you have a smaller hog.
Ham
This list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning ham. Wild hog ham is just as good if not better than pork ham.
I know this may be hard to believe, given that pork ham has all that juicy fat to add flavor.
The difference is when it comes to smoking. The flavor of wild hog works so much better with smoking than pork.
With a simple wet brine and your favorite wood for smoking, you can turn a wild hog ham into a masterpiece that will impress the fussiest of your friends.
Final Thoughts
Like most people, it’s difficult for me to choose my favorite one of anything. I’d rather have them all.
Choosing the best cut depends greatly on your skill level and what cooking methods you have access to.
If I had to choose one cut from the list as my favorite, I would probably opt for the ribs. They have so much flavor, better than any beef or pork ribs you have ever tried.
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