Future Wyoming grizzly bear hunts — a near certainty if federal authorities approve the state’s petition to again remove the animals’ Endangered Species Act protections — would likely target more than triple the number of bruins than previously proposed hunts, according to a state analysis.

The explosion in anticipated grizzly hunting tags owes to a spike in the bear population — at least on paper.

A handover of jurisdiction from the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to Wyoming, Montana and Idaho is not guaranteed, but population data presented in Wyoming’s petition and publicly available federal reports paint a picture of what a grizzly bear hunt could look like.

Using the latest population numbers, from 2021, a hypothetical state-managed grizzly hunt could kill up to 10 females and 29 males in Wyoming’s portion of the tightly managed “demographic monitoring area,” according to Dan Thompson, who leads the large carnivore section of the Wyoming Game and Fish Department.

“That’s an example, based on previous estimates,” Thompson said. “Basically what we’re looking at is an increase in what’s available for harvest and what’s available as far as management flexibility with a more accurate estimate of the population.”

A change in the method of counting grizzlies in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem underlies that new population estimate and the resulting change in potential hunting opportunity.

In 2018, during the last era of Wyoming grizzly bear management, the grizzly population was estimated at 714 bears and the state capped its hunt at one female bear and 10 males within the DMA. (Originally Wyoming proposed targeting two female bears, though it was trimmed to one due to an interstate spat about the divvying of grizzly mortality.)

Today, however, managers estimate a population of 1,069 animals, a count biologists say is more accurate, due to an adjustment to how many female grizzlies with cubs are tallied.

Historically, sows and cubs counted aerially within 19 miles of each other were only counted once to avoid double-counting bears. An analysis found this buffer too broad. Since 2021, only sows with cubs detected within 10 miles of each other are excluded to avoid duplication.

The change in how grizzlies are counted, a process known as recalibration, was among the issues U.S. District Court Judge Dana Christensen cited when he rejected the Fish and Wildlife Service’s most recent attempt at grizzly delisting. The worry was that revising the estimate upward without simultaneously adjusting population objectives upward could result in heavy hunting and a smaller number of bears.

Another change in how officials estimate the Yellowstone region’s grizzly population is on horizon. Federal and state biologists are moving toward using an “integrated population model,” which, Thompson said, is “more accurate, basically.” When applied, that new model produces similar numbers to the just-revised population estimate of more than 1,000 grizzlies in the monitoring area, he said.

‘Recalibration’

Thirty nine grizzlies — 29 males and 10 females — is not the upper limit of what Wyoming could hunt, were a hunt to occur. An untold number of additional bruins could be targeted outside the 19,278-square-mile DMA.

In 2018, Wyoming sought to target another dozen grizzly bears on the fringes of the ecosystem where there were no federal restrictions. All told, the state’s planned hunt that year could have knocked down its population by 23 bears, but the selected trophy game hunters never got the chance — Christensen declared an injunction stopping the hunt, then later he directed federal managers to relist the species as threatened under the ESA.

Wyoming hasn’t signaled what grizzly hunting might look like outside the monitoring area at the Yellowstone region’s core if the state reassumes control. Last time, the peripheral hunt was pitched as a tool to drive down the population, mimicking the structure of the state’s two-tiered wolf management regime, which keeps wolf numbers outside of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem as low as possible.

“To be responsible, we’d still have limits in place,” Thompson said of hunting the outskirts of grizzly range. “But we could potentially use harvests in a heavier fashion outside the DMA.”

If Wyoming’s coming grizzly hunting seasons mirror 2018’s planned-and-foiled hunt, with a roughly 1-to-1 ratio of bears targeted in each of the two zones, about 80 grizzlies could be taken statewide.

Grizzly range has been stretching outwards at roughly 12,400 square miles per decade since the population lowpoint in the 1970s, though it’s slowed somewhat of late, Interagency Grizzly Bear Study Team leader Frank van Manen said. At last estimate, occupied grizzly range encompassed more than 27,200 square miles — 40% of which fell outside of the monitoring area. Population densities are lower on the outskirts, but there’s really no saying how many grizzlies, which tend to be young males, exist in places like the southern Wyoming Range, eastern Owl Creek Mountains and the plains of the Bighorn Basin.

Mortality math

“I wish we had the resources to do that,” van Manen said of counting peripheral grizzlies. “But we made a decision in 2012 to restrict [the count] to the demographic monitoring area.”

Grizzlies killed outside the monitoring area aren’t counted toward mortality caps included in tri-state pacts that outline cooperative management of the region’s grizzly bears. And so the operative number van Manen sees when looking at the effects of a hypothetical Wyoming hunt is 39 bears.

“This would, I think, represent a fairly conservative approach,” he said. “These numbers of added mortality would not have any huge effect on the population, positive or negative.”

If delisting proceeds, Montana and Idaho could hunt grizzly bears, too. The overall number of grizzlies that could be hunted in the DMA throughout the whole ecosystem is 69, Thompson said, breaking down to 51 males and 18 females. Wyoming is allocated more than half of that sum because the majority of grizzly range falls in state bounds.

Hunting down 69 of the 1,069 grizzlies in the Yellowstone region would work toward the three states’ goal of reducing the population to 932 animals — the average from 2002 to 2019. There’d be other thresholds. If the population dipped below 831 bears, hunting within the monitoring area would be “suspended,” according to Wyoming’s petition. If grizzly numbers were to hover between 600 and 831, the states and tribes would retain “full management authority,” though with an absence of hunting. Below 600 grizzlies and all so-called “discretionary mortality” would also cease except to protect human safety.

These parameters were compelling to the Fish and Wildlife Service. In early February the agency announced it found Wyoming’s petition favorable and that it would examine whether to surrender jurisdiction to the states. The next step in the process is a “comprehensive status review” of Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem grizzlies, which is supposed to be completed within a year of a petition being filed but often takes much longer.

There’d be more bureaucratic steps prescribed by the Endangered Species Act after that: a proposed delisting rule and final rule.

Round three

The state of Wyoming would have its own process for setting up a hunt if federal delisting proceeds.

“It’s not up to me,” Game and Fish’s Thompson said. “It’d be up to the commission whether we move forward with a hunting season. I would envision the same process as before.”

Ahead of its planned 2018 grizzly hunt, state biologists traveled Wyoming and held a series of meetings to vet the idea. There were geographic splits in reception. Residents of Jackson Hole, home to several celebrity grizzly bears, were leery of hunting, leading to a no-hunting buffer zone that ran up the east side of Grand Teton National Park. The appetite for grizzly hunting elsewhere in Wyoming was greater.

Grizzly hunting in the Lower 48 ceased in the 1970s, when Ursus arctos horribilis became one of the first species protected by the Endangered Species Act. At the population’s nadir a half-century ago, grizzlies were rarely seen outside of Yellowstone National Park and fell to as few as 136 bears. Numbers grew steadily for decades afterward and have long met initial recovery goals for the ecosystem.

Still, a debate rages whether it’s appropriate to use hunting to drive down isolated populations of grizzly bears that have persisted, like those in the Yellowstone region. There are only 2,000 to 3,000 Lower 48 grizzlies on the landscape today, down from an estimate of 50,000 bears believed to exist before the western settlement era.

Advocacy groups are still sorting out their positions on the states’ third go at gaining jurisdiction over their grizzlies. That’s the case for the Greater Yellowstone Coalition, which opposed the first delisting attempt, but didn’t oppose the idea the second time. Craig Benjamin, the group’s conservation director, said it’s “premature” to take a position on the next delisting attempt, though some views of state management are already settled.

“We’ve made it clear that we oppose hunting of grizzly bears,” Benjamin said. “We don’t see a biological or wildlife management reason to do it, given all of the mortality that already occurs.”

Of course, it’s up to federal wildlife officials whether Wyoming and its neighboring Northern Rockies states get a chance to manage and hunt their resident grizzly bears.

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service declined an interview for this story.

Decisions, decisions

Rob Wallace, who oversaw the Fish and Wildlife Service for the Trump administration’s Interior Department, said that ideally the decision will be driven by the federal agency’s career professionals who know the species best. But, “whether we like it or not,” he said, there’s undeniably a political dimension to the grizzly delisting decision.

“I’m sure the career people are going to tell this administration, as they told our administration, that the bear has recovered,” said Wallace, a Teton Village resident. “They’re going to also try to understand what the states of Montana and Idaho and Wyoming are going to do if the bear’s delisted. And if they think there’s going to be a shooting arcade on the border of the parks, that’s going to affect their decision.”

Other variables that could stymie delisting and prevent grizzly bear hunting are out of Wyoming’s control. Endangered Species Act case law precedent is such that a “distinct population segment” of a species, like the grizzlies of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, cannot be delisted along state lines, said David Willms, an attorney and former policy advisor to Gov. Matt Mead who teaches an ESA course at the University of Wyoming. In other words, Wyoming’s delisting petition — if it’s successful — would also give Montana and Idaho the opportunity to manage and hunt their grizzlies. And whether delisting is successful also hinges on plans Idaho and Montana put in place.

“There’s no path to delisting without the Fish and Wildlife Service working with all three states, and with all three states working together,” Willms said.

Idaho’s grizzly bear petition called for delisting throughout the Lower 48 states, but lacked “substantial, credible information,” and was dismissed by the Fish and Wildlife Service.

Montana’s petition, meanwhile, was found favorably, triggering a separate “comprehensive status review” for its Northern Continental Divide population of grizzlies. But recent laws passed by the Montana Legislature could jeopardize Wyoming’s chances of managing and hunting its grizzly bears.

In a February 2024 letter, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Director Martha Williams warned Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks Director Hank Worsech that his legislature flouted the Endangered Species Act by passing a measure that legalized killing grizzlies caught preying on livestock. She also cited several other “concerning” policies, such as allowing wolf snaring and trapping and the use of dogs to pursue black bears in occupied grizzly bear range.

“The current 2024 Montana legislative session presents a good opportunity to address these issues,” Williams wrote.

The Montana Legislature, which meets every other year, will complete its session in mid-May.

Willms sees similarities to what unfolded when wolves came off the ESA in the Northern Rockies more than a decade ago. Wyoming, insistent on classifying wolves as unprotected predators in 85% of the state, slowed down the whole show, he said.

“Depending on what Montana does here,” Willms said, “Montana could be to grizzly bears what Wyoming was to wolves.”

Even the best archers started somewhere. If you’re just starting your archery journey, some basic shooting tips for beginners will go a long way in helping you to enjoy your new hobby. While shooting with experienced archers is the best way to improve, that’s not always a possibility. Follow these tips from the expert Staff Shooters at 60X Custom Strings and watch as your skills improve.

Work on Your Stance

Before you even notch an arrow, you need to get a basic archer’s stance down. Over time, you’re probably going to end up adjusting your stance as you get more comfortable with shooting. Once you find a stance that you’re comfortable with, find this position every single time you pick up your compound bow to work on how to shoot.

Of all the compound bow shooting tips we have for you, this one is the most important so don’t skip it. You can have the best archery bow for beginners but if you don’t get your stance down first, it won’t matter.

If you’re shooting at an actual range, there should be a line that runs parallel to the target. Use this shooting line as a guide for your stance. For ranges that don’t have a shooting line, create your own with a stick, rope, or chalk.

To find your stance follow these directions:

• Relax your whole body.
• Right-handed shooters, put your left foot in front of the line. Left-handers, use your right foot.
• Keep your feet about shoulder-width apart.
• Stand sideways so your feet are parallel to the line.
• Keep your posture straight and rotate your head directly over your forward-facing shoulder.
• Press your shoulders down and keep your lower back flat.

Now that you’ve got your stance, let’s dig into how to shoot a compound bow.

Find Your Anchor Point

Your anchor point is where your draw hand rests when you’re about to let the arrow fly. Most archer’s anchor their draw hand near their cheek or jaw. If you don’t have a consistent anchor point, choose one that you will use every time because consistency here is the key to great aim.

Find that exact same anchor point every time you shoot. The best archery bow for beginners will allow you to experiment with different positions until you find an anchor spot that feels right.

Hold the String with Two Fingers

When learning how to shoot a compound bow, as you load the arrow and draw the string back, use either two or three fingers. When it’s time to release the arrow, have your pointer finger above the arrow and your middle finger below it. Don’t touch the arrow with your fingers to stabilize it—you could injure yourself on the release or compromise the flight of the arrow.

When you release the string, a bow shooting tip we recommend you try is relaxing your fingers and letting both go at the same time. Any tension in your fingers will affect the string and change the direction of the arrow’s flight.

Don’t Wait Too Long to Shoot

As a general rule, as you’re learning how to shoot your compound bow, experts recommend shooting the arrow within seven seconds after pulling it back. That way, you stay focused on shooting. After seven seconds, you may become distracted by your surroundings or start overthinking your shot.

You should never take a shot if you’re not confident, so always make sure you’re mentally prepared before you notch an arrow — even when you’re using the best archery bow for beginners. Don’t forget to make sure that the coast is 100% clear before you even think about drawing your bow.

Shooting with Experts

Everyone has their own compound bow shooting tips, so it’s wise to learn from as many experienced archers as possible. After all, everyone has their own unique style when it comes to how to shoot a compound bow. These tips will get you started, but it’s a good idea to watch other archers and see how they’ve fine-tuned their approach. Plus, you can ask them questions and get tips on the best equipment.

Use Quality Equipment

One of the most overlooked tips is that bad gear leads to bad shooting. If you really want to get into archery and stick with it, investing in quality gear is worth it.

One of the easiest and most affordable ways to upgrade your bow is to use custom strings from 60X. We offer both single bowstrings and cables as well as sets for your convenience. You should change your strings and cables every year or so, but upgrading your stock strings right out of the box is a great way to squeeze the most performance from your compound bow as you learn how to shoot. Boost accuracy, stability, and arrow speed with the world’s best bowstrings and cables.

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We reviewed and tested over 25 compasses and found that the Sunnto MC-2 is the best survival compass.

A compass needs to do a lot more than just point North to be considered a good compass for survival. With so many options out there called “survival compasses”, it is hard to know what to choose.

Our buying guide explains what to look for in a survival compass and how the Sunnto MC-2 is the perfect choice – not only as the best survival compass but also the best for any other outdoor activity when getting lost is a possibility.

I have over 40 years of experience using compasses and purchased my first Silva baseplate compass when I was 10 years old in Boy Scouts. My family has a combined 40 years of military experience using compasses, with one of them being a navigator. My grandfather was a pipeline surveyor, and I have his 1940s model compass.

So, we have used a few compasses over the years.

I based this review on our experience and also the experience of other experts that teach wilderness navigation classes. Our goal is to present the best survival compass available that can help you get to safety (or away from harm) in an emergency.

If you need a compass to get from A to B while hiking, bushcraft camping, or just in case you face a survival situation, keep reading.

Quick Comparison of our Favorite Survival Compasses

Best Survival Compass

Suunto MC-2 – The Best Survival Compass

• Type: Orienteering Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 2.5” x 4” x .7”
• Weight: 2.6 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent Marks

The Suunto MC-2 Compass is our top pick for the best compass for survival.

This compass has all of the features I need to navigate a survival situation. It is a sighting compass that I have used to keep me traveling in a straight line over long distances. I can simply sight an object in the distance at the correct bearing and hike to that object. After reaching that object, repeat the process.

The mirror is great to have in case I need to signal for help or for personal first aid.

I like the fact that this compass is also a baseplate compass for use with topographical maps. I have the USGS version of this compass, and my maps are USGS scale maps. This allows me to measure distances easily on a map without having to do any math. Even if you don’t have USGS maps, the inch ruler is universal for other maps.

The built-in declination adjustment is excellent as well. I can simply read the adjustment on the map and then turn the adjustment screw on the back of the compass. I like that a small adjustment tool is included and attached to the lanyard, so I never have to look for a screwdriver.

The baseplate also has a magnifying lens, which I have used to see small details on my maps and to start fires.

A clinometer and a slope ruler are also built into this compass. While I personally don’t usually need these features, I have them.

I also like that the bezel has all 8 directions printed on it (N, NE, E, SE, S, SW, W, NW), as well as degrees. This makes it easy to use since you don’t have to remember the bearing for E or W in a stressful situation.

When ordering one, there may be some confusion about which configuration to get. I personally recommend the Northern Hemisphere version with USGS UTM scales (which is linked above.)

This compass has everything that I need in a compass. Many other survivalists and outdoorsmen also agree. It is affordable, so there is no reason not to recommend it.

Recommended for:

The Sunnto MC-2 Compass is the best compass for any outdoor activity. It is especially suited as the best compass for survival situations. If you only plan to buy one compass, get this one.

Suunto MCB Mini Compass – Best Backup Survival Compass

• Type: Mini Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 2.2” x 2.68” x 0.7”
• Weight: 1.27 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: No
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: No

The Suunto MCB Mini Compass is a compact mirror sighting compass that is a great backup compass to keep in your pack, vehicle, or boat. Sunnto calls it their “Safety Compass”, so it was designed to be a backup to your primary compass.

This compass is similar to what I call an orienteering compass, except it does not have a clear baseplate.

It does not have declination adjustment or a magnification lens either, so mapping capabilities with this compass are somewhat limited.

It has a straight edge on the sides with mm and 1/20 scales, so you can use it with a map if necessary.

The lanyard has a built-in whistle, which, combined with the mirror that can be used for signaling, makes this a great multiuse survival tool.

The Lid folds down to make an excellent compact package that will fit almost anywhere. While not the best primary compass, it does make a great backup. If you ever find yourself in a situation where you may not believe your primary compass, a backup will help you verify your doubts. Peace of mind is cheap.

Recommended for:

The Suunto MCB Mini Compass is for someone looking for a backup survival compass for their pack, vehicle, or boat. If you do not venture out very far, it makes a good backup for a GPS unit as well.

Cammenga US Military Compass – Most Durable Survival Compass

• Type: Lensatic Compass
• Size: 2.25″ x 3″ x 1.1″ (closed)
• Weight: 16 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: No
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Tritium

The Cammenga US Military Compass is the same as the government issue M-1950 compass for the military.

The biggest benefit of this compass is it is very durable and battle-tested. If you are concerned about damaging your compass, this is the most durable compass available.

Our team has seen this compass dropped over a cliff and ran over during military operations. Afterward, it still functioned fine. Simply put, we have seen it survive tough times.

I feel that using this compass is not as straightforward as a mirror compass. However, using this compass is second nature if you are military-trained.

It does not have a mirror, so this is a disadvantage from a survival perspective. While it does have a magnifying lens for sighting, it is not strong enough to start a fire.

The tritium inserts are great and will stay illuminated for years. This makes this compass the best on our list for navigating at night.

This compass can be used with maps. However, using it is a little different from traditional baseplate map compasses. Again, anyone that is military-trained will not have an issue. It does not have a declination adjustment, so you will have to consider it in your bearing calculations.

Recommended for:

The Cammenga US Military Compass is for anyone who has had military training and is comfortable using this compass. It is also very durable, so if you are hard on your equipment, this is one to consider. For people that are not military trained or understand compasses very well, this is not the best choice for a survival compass.

Silva Ranger 2.0 Compass

• Type: Orienteering Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: Approx 4” x 2.5” x 1”
• Weight: 4.8 Ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent Marks

The Silva Ranger 2.0 Compass is a mirror-sighting compass with all the features I look for.

It has a sighting mirror to sight objects in the distance for traveling in a straight line. It has a clear baseplate for use with maps and a magnifying lens to start fires if needed.

I like the fact that it has multiple map scales printed on it. In my experience, you come across different maps with various scales, so a compass with multiple scales is great.

The lanyard also has map scales marked on it. Since the lanyard is flexible, you can lay it on a map and bend it around curves for more accurate distance measurement. This is great if you want to know the distance you will travel on a curvy hiking trail.

There are a few things that I do not like about this compass. The bezel only has degrees and no directions like the Suunto MC-2. During a stressful situation, it could be hard to remember the bearing for East, for example.

I also don’t care for the shape of the baseplate. It is curved on the ends and not straight, which makes it more challenging to line up on a map.

The lid of this compass seems just too large to me. It is noticeably larger than the Suunto. Also, the compass does not have a tool for adjusting the declination.

I have owned Silva compasses for over 40 years, so I am a fan. Unfortunately, they moved manufacturing to China in 2005, which is another negative for me.

Recommended for:

The Silva Ranger 2.0 Compass is for anyone looking for a survival compass, and our top pick is unavailable. If you are an avid hiker, the lanyard is convenient when mapping out a hike.

Brunton TruArc 15 Compass

• Type: Orienteering Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 4” x 2.5” x 0.6”
• Weight: 3.2 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: No

The Brunton TruArc 15 Compass is made in the USA and checks all of our boxes in what is needed in a compass for survival.

It has a sighting mirror, magnifying lens, and a baseplate with USGS scales. I like the three scales on the baseplate. It has a 1:24,000 scale for miles, meters, and feet. This makes it easy to measure any distance you want on a map. The only downside is you must have a USGS map to use it without doing any math.

This compass has a global needle as a standard. This makes it nice if you want to travel near the equator or to the southern hemisphere with this compass. It also has a built-in clinometer and toolless declinometer adjustment. While the toolless design sounds good, many people have issues adjusting it.

There are a few negatives with this compass. The bezel is set up in reverse from most other compasses and has a magnifying window over the bearing markings. If you practice and exclusively use this compass, it may not be a problem. But, with most other compasses being the opposite, it is very confusing to learn from someone with a different compass.

Sighting with the compass is also not intuitive. It is easier to see the bearing marks at the top of the bezel through the mirror. When you read the bearing this way, it is 180 degrees off and does not align with the “shed” markings on the baseplate. This just makes it confusing to me.

Recommended for:

The Brunton TruArc 15 Compass is for someone looking for a made-in-the-USA compass. It fits all of our criteria for a survival compass but is not as easy to use as others.

Sunnto MB-6 Compass

• Type: Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 2.6” x 1.85” x 0.9”
• Weight: 1.94 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent marks

The Sunnto MB-6 Compass is a unique compass that folds into a metal matchbox-style box. This makes it very durable and compact.

This compass has a mirror that folds down underneath it when you open it. It has gun sight-type sights on the top that you can use to sight targets in the distance. It is a little different than most mirror compasses but works similarly.

The main advantage of this compass is how compact it is. If folds up into a nice box that will fit into your pocket.

The main disadvantage is this compass is it can’t be used with maps. You will need a separate baseplate compass if you need to do any map work. However, it does have declination adjustment, so this will help when translating bearings from your mapping compass.

While I can’t consider this compass the best for most people, it should be considered for someone who doesn’t like the standard orienteering compass and doesn’t plan to use maps.

Recommended for:

The Sunnto MB-6 Compass is for someone who wants a rugged, compact, and durable survival compass and does not plan to use a map. This is a great backup compass for a hiker or a boater.

Silva Mini Compass

• Type: Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 1.6” x 1.86” x 0.8”
• Weight: 1.6 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: No
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent marks

The Silva Mini Compass is a small mirror sighting compass that is very compact. It is the smallest compass on our list. It is also the cheapest.

This compass should only be considered a backup compass. It is compact and lightweight, so it is a great choice for a backpacker or hiker when weight is a concern.

It does have a mirror, which is unusual for such a small compass. It is also affordable, so keeping a backup won’t blow your budget.

It is made from thinner plastic, so it is not the most durable compass.

You could use this compass with a map if you had to, but since it is so small it is not easy. It does have an inch scale on one side.

This compass made it to my list because it has a mirror and is very small. You can stick this in a small survival kit; it will be good enough to help you travel in a straight line when you have no other option.

Recommended for:

The Silva Mini Compass is for someone looking for a small, compact mirror compass for their survival kit. This should not be considered your main compass for survival situations but rather an emergency backup.

Best Compass for Survival – Buying Guide

To select the best survival compass, it is essential to understand a few basics about compasses. Don’t just buy any cheap compass advertised for “survival.”

There are a few different types of compasses. Some are good in a survival situation, and some are not. Below we will discuss the differences, and then we will put it all together so you can decide which is the best for you.

Price

While, usually, you can find an excellent lower-priced option for most survival gear, this is not the case for a compass. As they say, “You get what you pay for.”

Stay away from anything that is under $25. These are cheap inferior copies. Most cheap compasses are inaccurate and are more difficult to use.

If you just want something to play with, cheap is fine, but a survival compass should not be something you just play with. Since your life depends on it, it needs to work correctly.

Brand

A reputable company should make your survival compass. I found many cheap knockoffs with strange brand names that are made in China. While they look like the more expensive compasses, they are different.

Cheap compasses are made from inferior materials that are simply not reliable. The needles can be inconsistent between readings, causing you to travel in the wrong direction. While a small error is negligible, it really adds up over a long distance.

Stay with these reputable brands:

• Suunto has been making compasses in Finland for over 80 years. Their specialty is compasses, and they are continually updating their processes to make their products more accurate and durable. They include a lifetime warranty and make some of the best compasses available.
• Cammenga is a US-based company that has been making the military’s standard issue M-1950 lensatic compass since 1992. They must meet all the military standards in their processes so their products are top-notch.
• Silva began in Sweden and made their first compass in 1928. They made compasses in Sweden until 2005, when they moved production to China. Since then, they have been bought and sold a few times. Since 2018 they have re-established themselves as a Swedish company. However, their manufacturing facilities are still in China. Their quality has improved in the past few years.
• Brunton is a US-based company that was founded in 1895. They began by making a pocket transit that was used by surveyors that included a compass and clinometer. It was often just called a “Brunton.” In 1996, they were acquired by Silva but were sold in 2006 and again in 2009 to another Swedish company. Manufacturing is still done today at its Riverton, Wyoming facility.

Different Types of Compasses

There are a few different types of compasses, each with a specific purpose. This is where it gets confusing when buying a compass.

First, we will review each type of compass.

Button

A button compass is what the name suggests. It is a small compass, not much bigger than a button. They are usually around 1” in diameter and are circular with no other baseplate or cover.

A button compass gives you an overall direction with no absolute accuracy. If you want to move North, it will give you a general Northerly direction.

These compasses cannot be used with a map, and they cannot be used to sight a bearing accurately.

While one of these is better than nothing, there are ways to determine the overall direction of the environment. The location of the sun, the moon, and moss on trees and rocks can tell you which way North is more reliably than a cheap button compass. Don’t waste your money.

Baseplate

A baseplate compass is a circular compass mounted to a thin rectangular base plate. The baseplate is usually a clear plastic.

Baseplate compasses are designed to be used with maps to determine bearings and distances. They will have a ruler or scale printed on the side to measure distance on a map. They will also have a rotating bezel that is used to measure a heading between points on a map.

While these compasses will show you a bearing, they do not have any type of sighting mechanism. These can be used to navigate somewhat when there are prominent landmarks to follow. However, if there are no prominent landmarks or you do not know where you are, they will not be accurate enough to travel in a straight line.

Lensatic

A Lensatic compass is a circular compass inside a case with a lid and a sighting device. An excellent example of a Lensatic compass is the standard military M-1950 compass.

These are used to sight objects or landmarks in the distance so that an accurate bearing can be determined or followed. These compasses are the best for traveling in a specific direction and allow you to move in a straight line.

While they are not specifically made to use with maps, some have a flat base that can be used with a map when opened.

Transit Compass

While not as popular today with GPS and modern electronics, a transit compass is used by surveyors and map makers. These compasses are usually 3 inches or so in diameter, have a metal case and lid, and are very accurate and expensive.

While you can’t find many of these sold new today, they are often sold as antiques. I have one from the 1930s that was my grandfather’s. He used it to survey while installing pipelines.

Orienteering or Mirror Sighting Compass

The term orienteering compass is often used a lot for baseplate compasses. This is likely a marketing tactic since it sounds “cooler.”

An orienteering compass or mirror sighting compass looks similar to a baseplate compass. However, it has a top-hinged cover that has a mirror. It also has a gun sight-type feature that allows you to sight objects in the distance.

An orienteering compass can be used the same as a baseplate compass for determining direction and distance on a map. It can also be used like a Lensatic compass to sight objects in the distance accurately.

This type of compass is usually the best overall since it combines the baseplate and Lensatic compass.

Parts of a Compass

Understanding the parts of a compass is critical before purchasing one. Below, we will step through each feature while referencing this diagram.

Needles

The needle is the heart of the compass. Compass needles will have two sides, one painted red or another color and the other painted black. The painted side of the needle points to “magnetic North.”

Some compasses have two types of needles available. The most common in the US is called ” Northern Hemisphere” or just “NH.” The other type is “Global.” If there is no indication, they are usually NH needles.

Since the Earth is curved, the magnetic field is different depending on where you are on the planet. If you are in the northern hemisphere, a compass needle is attracted to the poles at a different angle than in the southern hemisphere.

Since the needle floats around its center inside a capsule on the compass, you have to hold the compass level so it is free to rotate.

So, a compass with a needle tuned for the Northern Hemisphere will need to be held at an angle to rotate in the Southern Hemisphere freely. This makes it challenging to use on a flat surface.

In the US, both NH needles and Global needles will work. Global needles have more room for the needle to tilt inside the compass.

While some say that Global needles are better since you can walk and still use the compass, I am not sure who is trying to hike in the woods without watching where they go. This is the same as texting and driving. You cannot accurately use a compass, not trip over your feet, and track landmarks simultaneously.

Global needle compasses are more expensive than NH compasses, so again, this is just a marketing ploy to get you to spend more money on something you don’t need.

Unless you plan to travel to the Southern Hemisphere (that’s a long hike), an NH compass will work fine for you.

Rotating Bezel

A rotating bezel is needed to measure and follow bearings. Make sure your compass bezel has markings in degrees from 0 to 360. Some military compasses are marked in Mils, which is not helpful unless you were trained in the military.

Also, make sure your compass bezel is at least marked with “N” to indicate North. While North is basically 0 degrees, having this on the bezel is better so you don’t get confused in a stressful situation. The best compasses have N, S, E, and W marked for clarity.

Declination Adjustment

Declination is a complicated subject that could be its own article.

There are basically three directions for North depending on your reference point. There is true North, magnetic North, and grid North. Maps are a flat representation of a curved surface.

The declination adjustment is printed on the map to make up for the differences between the North direction on a map and the magnetic North that your compass reads. This adjustment will be different depending on where you are on the earth.

A compass with declination adjustment makes it easy to adjust for this difference and measure bearings accurately on the map. If your compass does not have a declination adjustment, you can still use it, but you must add or subtract the declination from every measurement you take.

Having built-in declination adjustment on your compass is the best and makes calculating bearings easier.

Orienting Lines

The best baseplate and orienteering compasses will have orienting lines printed on the baseplate so you can line them up accurately on the map. Aligning the grid lines on a map is an essential first step to measuring bearings.

They will also have what is often called a “shed” or “doghouse” printed behind the needle. This area visually indicates where the compass arrow should be when you are taking or measuring a bearing.

It is often said to “put red in the shed” or “put the dog in the doghouse” as a way to remember how to align the compass needle.

Needle Chamber

Most newer compasses (except the Military compasses) have a liquid-filled needle chamber. The liquid in the chamber helps to dampen the amount of movement the needle makes. It makes it smoother and quicker to get an accurate reading.

Cheaper compasses will not have a liquid-filled chamber, and the needle will constantly move around as you hold it. This makes it hard to get an accurate bearing since the needle constantly moves.

Over time, bubbles can form in the chamber (like in my 40-year-old Silva). This does not affect the compass’s accuracy but makes it harder to use since you must wait for the needle to stabilize. If the bubble is over 25% of the chamber, it is time to get a new compass. My Silva has been officially retired.

Clinometer

Some compasses will have a built-in Clinometer. This is used to measure the slopes of hills. Surveyors and map makers used this tool to do their work historically. Today with modern GPS devices, they are no longer used much.

There is no need for a Clinometer on your survival compass, either.

Scales

The scale printed on your baseplate or orienteering compass can be confusing. This is used for measuring the distance on a map.

Most compasses come with at least inches or centimeters printed on the baseplate. At a minimum, this, along with the scale printed on the map, can always be used to measure distance on a map. You could use a piece of string if you had to.

Most topographical maps today come with a standard scale. USGS maps are always 1:24,000 scale. Some compasses, like our top pick, come with a variety of scale options available.

If you know the type of map you have, try to match your compass with your map. For example, if you have a USGS map, get a USGS compass. This will just make it easier to take distance measurements. Otherwise, just use the typical inch or centimeter ruler that comes on all baseplate compasses.

Glow in the Dark Marks

A compass with luminescent or Tritium markings glows in the dark, making using your compass at night much easier. Tritium is the best and will usually last for at least ten years. Luminescent paint has to be “charged” by sunlight or a flashlight and will glow for a few hours afterward. Some glow better than others.

Either way, some glow-in-the-dark markings are nice but not essential.

Sighting Lens or Mirror

A Lensatic compass will have a sighting lens, while an Orienteering compass will have a mirror.

When using a Lensatic compass, you hold it close to your face. As you focus on an object in the distance through the sighting window, you can look down without moving and see the needle and the markings on the bezel through the lens. Since everyone’s eyesight is different, the position of the lens may have to be adjusted. You may also need to remove your glasses depending on your eyesight.

When using an orienteering compass, you hold it extended away from your face, much like a handgun. As you focus on a distant object through the sighting window, you can adjust the mirror to see the needle and bezel.

Essentially, the mirror and lens are accomplishing the same thing in different ways. In my experience, the mirror works best and is easier to use.

What makes a good Compass for Survival?

To find the best compass for survival, you must first determine what the compass will be used for.

The main items to focus on are:

• Assist with traveling in a straight line over a long distance.
• Be able to find a position and navigate with a map.
• Have multiple other uses like signaling and fire starting.

Lateral Drift

First and foremost, a survival compass must assist you with traveling in a straight line for a long distance. Everyone experiences what is called “lateral drift” while they are walking without a clear target in the distance.

When you are in the woods, and all the trees look the same, you tend to walk toward your dominant side without realizing it. This is why you hear of lost people walking in one big circle.

To walk in a straight line, we need a compass that allows us to sight targets in the distance to walk towards. This can only be accomplished with a Lensatic or orienteering compass.

Map Navigation

A survival compass should be able to be used with a map. Finding your way to safety or around hazardous locations is one of the main objectives in a survival situation.

Even while bushcraft camping, navigation is an essential bushcraft skill that could be used to find a body of water to fish or a location to hunt. It would then help you find your way back to camp.

To navigate with a map, a baseplate or orienteering compass is needed. Some Lensatic compasses can also be used with a map.

Multi-Use

For any piece of survival gear, it should have multiple uses to be considered. We are limited in how much gear we can carry in a survival kit, bug-out bag, or get-home bag, so each item must be valuable.

An Orienteering compass has a mirror. Mirrors can be a signaling device to others in the air or on the ground. They can also be used for hygiene or to see areas on your body that you can’t usually see for first aid.

A baseplate compass and an orienteering compass also have a magnifying lens. A magnifying lens can be used to start a fire with the sun. This massive advantage over the other compasses should not be ignored. It is very easy to practice starting a fire with a magnifying lens before you need it. While you should have a fire starting kit, this is a resource that never runs out except on a cloudy day.

Best Survival Compass

Considering these factors, the best compass for survival is an orienteering compass like our top pick, the Suunto MC2. It has all the criteria needed in a survival compass.

Most people that are using a compass are doing it because they are traveling in a remote area. An argument could be made that all compasses are survival compasses. Before buying a cheap compass to take hiking or camping, this should be considered. If you get lost, was saving a few dollars worth it?

A good survival compass is essential for any survival kit or as a backup to a GPS unit or survival watch. Learning how to use a compass to navigate is similarly just as important. There are many books, classes, and courses available on navigation. I recommend purchasing a map and practicing with your compass before venturing out on a long hike.

The best way to avoid a survival situation is to never get in one to start with.

Video Guide to the Best Survival Compass

Dave Canterbury discusses the best compass for bushcraft and survival.

What is the Best Compass for You?

I see many recommending cheap baseplate compasses as the best compass for survival. After understanding the criteria above, would you consider one? It is not practical to try and constantly watch a compass while walking through the woods, trying to get to safety. This will only get you more lost or, even worse, injured.

The best compass for survival is the Sunnto MC2, without question. Its features, quality, and ease of use are ahead of competitors. In my experience, it is also the best compass for hiking, bushcraft, camping, hunting, and any other outdoor activity. There is no reason to own a different compass.

Now that you have the best compass, look at our other survival guides and gear reviews. As you build out your survival kit, we have you covered no matter the outdoor activity.

Which polymer-framed pistols have reigned supreme since the 1980s?

I don’t have to tell you; it’s Glock.

Over 60% of the American police force carry Glocks. SOCOM carries Glocks, and numerous international police and military forces all choose Glocks.

They are also extremely popular in the hands of concealed carriers, home defenders, and competition shooters.

But as Glocks grew in popularity, so did their aftermarket.

Recently that same aftermarket has become so big and expansive that these same companies are now producing Glock clones.

Yep, the design has spread like wildfire, and Gaston’s plastic fantastics are no longer just made by Glock.

So, of course, we had to dive further into the clone phenomena.

We’ll run you through why you might want a Glock clone (or not) and also give you some recommendations on which ones are best if you’re in the mood to buy.

Keep reading to learn more.

THE QUICK LIST

Why a Glock Clone?

Glock clearly makes excellent pistols, so why would you ever want a clone?

Well, Glock is a behemoth of a company. And like behemoths, they are slow to move and adapt.

We saw the aftermarket continuously upgrade the Glock platform, pushing the design — from high-end race guns to perfected defensive firearms.

A Glock clone allows you to buy the Glock-style pistol with the features you want.

Instead of buying a Glock and then spending double the money to cut the slide for an optic, add suppressor height sights and a threaded barrel, drop in a nice trigger, tweak the magwell, etc., you can just…buy it the way you want.

Honestly, it’s cheaper to buy a fully customized Glock than to customize a stock Glock piece by piece.

When you start looking at clones, you’ll realize some people might not want a Glock but want the reliability, simplicity, and parts availability associated with the build.

As such, the Glock clone market gives you a not a Glock with Glock compatibility.

Clones allow for upgrades that Glock fans want that the company refuses to release.

A Glock Clone can give me a dedicated optic footprint not reliant on the less-than-stellar Glock MOS system.

Also, maybe you want a better grip angle, an undercut trigger guard, an enhanced beavertail, and the like…well, then a Glock clone is the only way to do that.

Cons

But nothing is without a downside, clones included. The biggest issue with a Glock clone is that it doesn’t have the factory support a standard Glock does.

If your OEM pistol breaks, Glock can easily fix the problem and ship it back.

With a clone, you’re at the mercy of smaller/boutique companies that can’t always match Glock’s lead times.

That and clones are often a generation or even two generations behind Glock OEM pistols.

This leads to Glock clones lacking the stock OEM features of the current Glock generation.

Best Glock Clones

1. PSA Dagger

Palmetto State Armory entered the world of Glock clones in 2020 with the Dagger.

Essentially, it’s a Glock G19 Gen 3 but heavily modified and upgraded from the standard Glock format.

A compact build, it’s well-suited for both concealed carry and home defense.

The frame features a heavy-duty grip texture that’s beyond aggressive in its stippling, while the slide offers melted corners for more comfortable concealment.

It also sports front and rear slide serrations.

PSA improved the ergonomics of the Glock by including an undercut under the trigger guard, a more aggressive beavertail, and a massive magazine release.

They did all of this on a pistol they sell for a mere $300!

PSA’s Dagger provides an affordable Glock option full of features for a very low price point.

The biggest downside is that PSA seems continually sold out of these pistols – so it’s going to take some time before they are easy to find.

Want more info on the Dagger? Check out our full review.

2. Shadow Systems MR920

Gucci Glocks have become one of the most common Glock configurations, and the Shadow Systems MR920 embraces that.

Shadow Systems’ MR920 ships with all the features and add-ons you could ever want. These pistols are Glock 19-sized and come factory ready for gettin’ Gucci.

First, they offer an optics cut compatible with most major optic brands without the need for plates.

The optics cut is optional, but if you step into 2021, you can rock a Holosun, Trijicon, Vortex, or Leupold optics.

Its frame is built around user control with an aggressive beavertail, a dynamic trigger undercut, and a very aggressive grip texture.

Not to mention, the slide features its own serrations for easy racking and press checks.

Obviously, Glock’s crappy plastic sights are tossed — these guns wear Ameriglo sights instead.

The MR920 takes Glock mags, and to make shoving those mags faster into the gun Shadow Systems includes a massive magwell for speed reloads.

From top to bottom, the Shadow Systems MR920 comes complete with all the Gucci features most Glock owners want, making it one of the best out-of-the-box Glock clones on the market.

If the standard MR920 isn’t your style, Shadow Systems has a plethora of other flavors that might work better. So check out our reviews on the MR920L, XR920, and DR920.

3. Lone Wolf LTD19 V2

Lone Wolf was one of the O.G.s of Glock aftermarket parts and pieces. So, it makes sense they would dive into Glock clones eventually.

The LTD19 V2 predictably uses the oh-so-famous Glock 19 frame and slide size to create a compact pistol.

Lone Wolf’s design goal was to make the pistol extremely lightweight and ergonomic, and the LTD19 V2 shaves off almost 5 ounces of Glock baggage. This ultimately creates a lighter, thinner pistol.

Does the Timberwolf frame look a little odd at first? That’s because it’s noticeably thinner than the original Glock 19 frame.

This reduction in bulk makes the pistol more ergonomic and is especially notable for those with smaller hands.

Don’t worry; the Lone Wolf LTD19 V2 features a generous undercut for a nice high grip to accommodate XL-sized hands and increase control.

An extended beavertail lets you choke up and not get slide bite. As a guy with big hands, Glocks also take a bite out of me.

The Lone Wolf LTD19 V2 comes with a low-profile magwell, an enlarged magazine release, and an enlarged slide stop.

It’s an ergonomic powerhouse from one of the oldest Glocksmiths.

If you want another option, check out our review of the previous generation — the LTD 19 V1.

4. Polymer80 PFS9/PFC9

Polymer80 made its bones in the 80% lower market and turned heads with its Glock 80% frames.

And the company spun that into a successful line of complete pistols utilizing the famed P80 Glock frames.

The PFS9 and PFC9 represent the full-size and compactvariants, respectively.

Both opt for a P80 frame, notable for being more ergonomic than the stock Glock frame.

Its grip features a massive undercut in the trigger guard and aggressive beavertail to maximize control and improve comfort.

Also, the grip texture feels extremely aggressive with a scalloped magazine release for easier activation.

The frame also follows the same grip angle as a 1911 with a bit straighter frame design.

It’s personal preference, but many folks prefer that more ‘American’ angle on their pistols. (I’m one of them.)

The PFS9 and PFC9 also feature an actual Picatinny rail in spec and not Glock’s own weird OEM rail.

Internals are Gen 3 parts, and most are compatible with aftermarket Glock goodness. However, there isn’t much I’d change.

The flat-faced trigger is very nice, as are the steel rounded sights. At a relatively affordable price point of $550, the Polymer 80 pistols make a budget-friendly alternative to Gaston’s Glock.

Read our review of the PFC9 here!

5. Alpha Foxtrot AF-C Forged Pistol

The more things change, the more they stay the same.

Glock wasn’t the first polymer frame pistol, but they were the first successful polymer frame pistol.

Somewhere along the way, people decided to hell with that and designed a metal frame Glock clone.

The Alpha Foxtrot AF-C Forged Pistol utilizes Alpha Foxtrot forged frame with their custom slide to create one interesting Glock design.

Alpha Foxtrot makes 1911s, and you can tell that by the styling of the AF-C.

The grip angle looks almost identical to a 1911, with an improved extended beavertail and retro-future vibe.

Its frame also features gas pedals to reduce recoil and improve control.

Unlike a polymer frame, these gas pedals are more than just cuts but rather forged pedals allowing for more pressure and, therefore, more control.

On the outside, this is clearly a custom Glock. But, unlike other custom Glocks, it’s a bit more practical in its design.

No crazy lightening cuts, massive holes in the slide, or similar slots, notches, or tabs. It’s perfect for defensive use and more than capable in that role.

Adopting a Glock 19 size, it’s carry-friendly. However, expect more weight with the metal frame than the classic polymer frame.

Lots of people still like metal-framed pistols, but they want Glock reliability and parts compatibility.

If this sounds like you, then the Alpha Foxtrot AF-C might work for you.

6. Faxon FX-19 HellFire Compact Pistol

Faxon is well known — mostly for the ARAK 21, awesome barrels – but go ahead and add the FX-19 to that list.

As you’d expect, the FX-19 is a Glock 19-sized clone, but it’s built from the ground up to embrace the Gucci Glock theme.

The frame is a collaboration between Faxon and Polymer80 — a custom rig using a special PF940C frame.

Its grip texture feels aggressive, and the high undercut trigger guard allows for a high grip. All the while, the beavertail continues to reinforce that nice high grip.

You still get a Picatinny rail, making light and laser additions a bit easier.

The FX-19 HellFire Compact Pistol comes with a heavily customized slide featuring lightening cuts. These cuts reduce weight and recoil via mass reduction.

Optics cuts come standard, and the mount fits the Trijicon RMR and similar optics.

To back that optic up, you get a set of suppressor height sights for easy co-witnessing.

Don’t forget the threaded barrel for compensators or cans. Rounding out the features, the Overwatch Precision trigger gives a light and smooth pull.

When you want a plug-and-play customized Glock clone, the FX-19 fills that gap.

No need to gather parts and play amateur gunsmith when Faxon can do it for you.

Check out our review of the Faxon FX-19 Hellfire here, or give it a rating below!

7. ZRO Delta One

What if you wanted a Glock for every occasion but also only wanted it to be one pistol?

Well, then the ZRO Delta One has you covered.

This engineering marvel starts as a compact Glock clone but can transform via ‘conversions’ to a Glock of any size and design.

Like the Sig Sauer P320, the ZRO Delta One uses a fire control unit that acts as the firearm portion.

Shooters then customize their modulus to whatever they want it…and I mean whatever.

It’s not just swapping slides but swapping dustcovers, backstraps, magwells, and more.

The frame can grow from a Glock 19 to Glock 17 with a specific magwell or go full gamer with a massive magwell for the faster funnel of reloads.

You can even move from a Glock 19 size to Glock 34!

We get all the necessary upgrades, including an optics cut, an undercut trigger guard, a beavertail, steel sights, and so on.

Oh, did I mention the frame is also made from metal?

That said, this is a very expensive gun…a nice gun, but an expensive one.

While it’s not for everyone, it’s a truly beautiful and functional feat of engineering.

8. 80% Arms GST-9

If you really want something custom built for you…by you…then you might want to pick up the 80% Arms GST-9.

This is an 80% Glock build, meaning it’s not a fully functioning firearm, but with some know-how and some time, you actually build the gun yourself.

80% Arms offers lots of features and customizations, so you can fine-tune it how you want.

It might seem intimidating to DIY, but 80% Arms includes everything you need in the pistol build kit. We promise, it’s not as scary as it seems!

We’re sure you’re wondering…is this legal? In most parts of the U.S., it is, but definitely check your local laws before buying.

Also worth noting, the ATF cracked down on these kits and no longer allows the jig — the part that helps you finish the gun — to be sold with the frame. So you will have to buy them in separate transactions.

Our very own Johnny B put one together and really enjoyed his time with it. You can read his review here!

Final Thoughts

Glock Clones are almost a dime a dozen these days. Every year it seems like more and more companies introduce new clones.

Let’s face it; Glock is clearly on the way to becoming the AR-15 of the handgun world, and why not?

They are reliable with a modern design, extremely simple to use, and easy to work on or fix. It’s unlikely we’ll see the world of Glock clones slow down anytime soon.

So, what’s your favorite Glock clone? Let us know below! If a clone won’t do and you need the real deal, check out our recommendations of the Best Glocks or customize your Glock with the Best Glock Upgrades.

Print Recipe

There’s more to venison than just backstrap, tenderloin and hamburger. Venison is versatile, but it would be a mistake to expect the same results from every part of a deer. Each cut is special in its own right. The cooking suggestions below will help you get the most out of your deer.

Venison Neck

Venison neck is laced with silver skin and oftentimes fat. It’s one of my favorite cuts for slow cooking. All that collagen breaks down with slow, low heat, and takes on an amazing texture that rivals that of pork shoulder.

However, because of its odd shape, I like to use the neck for dishes that call for shredded meat, dishes such as tamales, tacos, burritos, enchiladas, stew, soup and sandwiches. Or try the pulled meat on top of pizza, in pasta sauces or in hand pies. You can also cut off the entire neck, bone-in, and braise it to make pot roast over mashed potatoes.

The most ideal cut of meat for slow cooking requires connective tissue – venison neck provides that.

Recipes for Venison Neck:

• Cajun Smoked Venison Neck
• Japanese-Style Venison and Pork Belly

Venison Ribs

Depending on the size of the deer, you may not get more than a few scraps of meat here. We cut off strips between the rib bones and save it for grinding or filler meat for stew and chili.

If you shoot a larger deer, the ribs could be worth sawing off and braising. Do not cook venison ribs like you would pork or beef ribs; they will dry out quickly. Slow cook the ribs first until tender – covered and fully submerged in liquid – and then finish on the smoker or grill for color and flavor.

During the winter, our Nebraska deer can get quite fat. This fat may or may not taste good, and will determine whether you choose to keep the rib meat. If it tastes okay, a little fat is fine, but when there’s a lot of it, keep in mind that deer fat can have a waxy texture that is not so pleasant on the tongue.

Recipes for Venison Ribs:

• Amazing Venison Ribs
• Wild Game Stock (or Broth)

Venison Shoulder/Chuck

The shoulder is full of great meat for stew, soup, braising and grinding for burgers, chili and sausage. Aside from the “mock” tenders, most of the muscles on this part of a typical white-tailed deer are too small for decent steaks.

Leave the silver skin on for slow cooking – it will turn into gelatin and provide a juicy texture to the meat. If grinding, try to remove as much silver skin as possible. Too much silver skin in a grind will prevent proper binding in your burgers.

Larger muscles can also be shaved thinly for stir fry, fajitas and cheesesteak sandwiches. Also, you can slice the meat thinly to make jerky. Remember to remove as much silver skin as possible for these treatments.

Recipes for Venison Shoulder/Chuck:

• Venison Stew
• Venison Pot Pie
• Ultimate Square Venison Burger

Venison Loin/Backstrap

The coveted venison backstrap needs no introduction. The only rule for this cut is to not overcook it. Medium-rare is best: between 130- and 135-degrees Fahrenheit.

To cook the loin for stunning medallions, remove as much silver skin as possible. Tuck in the tapered ends – if any – and tie the entire piece with kitchen twine, which helps the loin cook evenly and keep its round shape. Allow the meat to rest before slicing to allow the juices to redistribute.

For a more impressive presentation, keep the meat attached to the ribs and saw off for racks of venison chops. For a simpler preparation, butterflied steaks are my go-to. The backstrap can also be sliced, seasoned and marinated to make the most tender kebabs on the grill.

I also enjoy making venison steak tartare with the loin, which is a raw dish.

Recipes for Venison Loin/Backstrap:

• Roasted Venison Loin with Scotch Whisky Sauce
• Bourbon BBQ Venison Backstrap
• Venison Steak Diane

Venison Tenderloin

The tenderloin is the first cut that is usually taken off a deer. This cut is so tender that it should be treated simply – salt and pepper is all it needs, with a quick hot sear with butter on the grill or in a pan.

Do not keep the tenderloins on the deer while hanging and aging. They will dry out quickly.

Recipes for Venison Tenderloin:

• Smoked Venison Tenderloin
• Venison Tenderloin Oscar
• Venison Tenderloin Mini Wellingtons

Venison Rump

The rump offers a small piece of muscle, best for pot roast and stew meat. It can also be ground for burger, chili and sausage. The size and quality of the cut will also depend on how careful you were when cutting the hindquarters from the deer.

Recipes for Venison Rump:

• Venison Fennelise Italian Sausage
• Easy Venison Taco Dip
• Grilled Venison Quesadilla Burger with Guacamole

Venison Hindquarter/Round

The hindquarter is my favorite part of the deer. It’s large and variable, with cuts that are suitable for steak, jerky, braising, stew, kebabs and grinding. The major muscles in the hindquarter are the top round, bottom round, eye of round and sirloin.

The top and bottom rounds are large pieces of whole muscle, great for steaks in young deer or aged deer. The bottom round is usually more tender, especially in the tri-tip area toward the bottom of the muscle. If you find these cuts a bit tough, marinate them first. The rounds also make delicious kebabs and stir fry when sliced thinly. When I’m out of loin, I use the rounds to make steak tartare.

The eye of round looks a lot like a piece of tenderloin. On young deer, this can be a very tender cut. For older deer, marinate it or use it for jerky or for stir fry and fajitas.

The sirloin is a large knuckle of muscles, with a little bit of silver skin throughout. On young deer or aged deer, the sirloin may be sliced for steaks – eat around the silver skin. For not-so-tender deer, this cut is suitable for braising whole, making jerky, as stew meat or ground meat.

Recipes for Venison Hindquarter/Round:

• Southern-Style Honey Barbecue Venison Jerky
• Pineapple and Jalapeño Venison Jerky
• Venison Kabobs
• Grilled Korean Bulgogi Venison Kebabs

Shanks

These long bones look like clubs of meat and are full of silver skin and ligaments near the joints. They’re a massive pain to debone and clean – the muscles are tiny, cradled by an extensive network of connective tissue.

While shanks are not suitable in some treatments, they are absolutely amazing in the slow cooker. Remember the collagen discussed in the neck section? The shanks have even more of it, and when braised, they turn into gelatin, making it the most unctuous cut of meat that exists on a deer. This is where venison osso buco comes from. Savor all four of them.

Recipes for Venison Shanks:

• Venison Osso Buco
• Braised Venison Shanks

Flank

The flanks are thin pieces of meat that stretch between the ribs and hindquarters on both sides of a deer. You can add them to the grind pile or slice for jerky.

Recipes for Venison Flank:

• Venison Carne Asada Marinade
• Homemade Ground Venison Jerky

Click here for more venison recipes

Choosing the best fixed blade broadhead for traditional archery can be challenging considering the sheer number of options available these days. You want one that is razor-sharp, tunes well with your arrow of choice, and holds up to the demands of practice sessions and hunting situations.

To save you a lot of time and stress, we did the research for you. We scoured the internet, got personal recommendations from various hunting Facebook groups, and tested some ourselves to bring you what we feel are the 10 best broadheads for traditional archery on the market today.

Which of these will work best for you depends on numerous factors, and what you prefer in a broadhead. Of course, cost almost always impacts the decision-making process, so we were sure to touch on that aspect as well.

Overall Best Broadhead

Zwickey Delta Broadhead

When I polled other bowhunters in one of my traditional archery Facebook groups, one brand that kept popping up was Zwickey. Zwickey has been producing quality fixed blade broadheads for traditional archery since 1938!

The Delta is a big, two-blade, cut-on-contact model constructed of high-carbon steel. The broadhead is 2 9/16 inches long with a 1 3/8-inch cutting diameter and weighs in at 170 grains. While Zwickey offers a glue-on model (featured below), this particular broadhead includes an adapter that allows it to screw into a standard arrow insert.

To prove its toughness, Zwickey claims a Montana hunter took eight bears with the same Delta 2 broadhead.

Best Single Bevel Broadhead

Iron Will Single Bevel SB-150

Iron Will broadheads are known for their high quality and strength which comes at a premium cost. These are the most expensive broadheads on our list, and one of only two single bevel broadheads that made the cut (pun intended) as well.

The single bevel broadhead is designed to maintain the arrow’s rotational spin through impact, resulting in a bone splitting effect and more tissue damage throughout the animal.

Iron Will broadheads feature super beefy .062-inch thick A2 tool-steel blades that are cryogenically treated and triple tempered to 60 HRC hardness. That will allow the Iron Will’s blades to withstand the demands of big game hunting for years, and allow frequent resharpening as needed to maintain a razor-sharp edge.

Best Heavy Broadhead

Steel Force Traditional Series Single Bevel Broadhead

This is the second of two single-bevel broadheads on our list. The long, lean design of the Steel Force provides maximum penetration and superb flight. Of course the single-bevel design will provide maximum damage and break bone if necessary.

The Steel Force is built like a tank out of 0.08-inch thick, knife-grade stainless steel. The broadhead is three inches long and one inch wide with an 11/32-inch ferrule, and is available in right or left bevel in 225 or 300 grains.

Best Glue-On Broadhead for Traditional Archery

Zwickey Eskimo Glue-On Broadhead

This is our second set of Zwickey broadheads on the list, but instead of being a screw-in model for a traditional insert, the Eskimo is made to glue onto a wood arrow or special insert. As we mentioned earlier, Zwickey has been making quality broadheads for decades and is a favorite among traditional bowhunters, and the Eskimo is probably the most popular broadhead they manufacture.

The Eskimo is a two-blade option with a 1 1/8-inch cutting diameter, and a weight of 125 grains. It feature an 11/32-inch taper hole. The cut-on-contact broadhead is made from special high-carbon steel so you can get the edges hair-shaving sharp. The triple-thick tip with special heat-treating resists curling and blows through bone for maximum damage. If you need a glue-on broadhead, you can’t go wrong with the Zwickey Eskimo!

Best 3 Blade Broadhead for Traditional Archery

EBBQ Woodsman Glue-On Broadhead

If you’re looking for a great three-blade option in a glue-on broadhead, then the EBBQ Woodsman may be the perfect option. The Woodsman is machined from a solid piece of tool-grade steel and features a pyramid tip for increased strength.

The broadhead has a one-inch cutting diameter and is coated in advanced pure Teflon for maximum durability. The Woodsman is made in the USA and backed by a lifetime guarantee. Unlike the other options listed here, EBBQ offers the Woodsman in a six pack.

Four Other Great Options

Simmons Land Shark

Another name that kept popping up among diehard traditional bowhunters was Simmons broadheads. The Montana-based company offers a variety of broadheads for traditional archery ranging in weight from 100 to 225 grains to cover every bowhunting scenario from whitetails to cape buffalo.

You won’t go wrong with any of Simmons’ numerous broadhead options, but for this article, we went with the 160-grain Land Shark. The Land Shark features tough .050-inch thick high-carbon steel blades with a respectable 1 5/8-inch cutting diameter. The concave blade design gives them unsurpassed penetration on both big and small game.

Every Simmons broadhead is made by hand here in the U.S. and inspected for perfect alignment before they leave the factory.

Magnus Stinger 4 Blade Arrow Broadhead

My broadhead of choice for my compound and recurve bows over the last two deer seasons has been the 150-grain Magnus Stinger 4-blade head. Like most of the broadheads on our list, the Stinger is a large, cut-on-contact broadhead that can be purchased with or without small bleeder blades.

Made from knife-grade stainless steel, the Stinger is razor-sharp right out of the package. The patented diamond tip provides bone-splitting performance on the largest of game animals, and the aircraft aluminum ferrule is spin tested to within .002 of an inch, providing perfect flight right out of the package.

One of my favorite aspects about Magnus broadheads is their lifetime replacement guarantee. If at any time you break, bend or have any concern with a Magnus broadhead, they will replace it.

Wasp Archery SharpShooter Broadhead

Wasp was one of the first companies to come out with replaceable blade broadheads, and they’ve been providing great broadheads ever since. They’ve recently started offering a traditional broadhead, the SharpShooter, that looks similar in design to the Magnus Stinger.

The 100% steel, cut-on-contact SharpShooter broadhead weighs in at 150 grains and features a razor-sharp .040-inch thick main blade with a 1-inch cutting diameter, and .027-inch thick bleeder blades.

While I love my Magnus Stingers, the Wasp SharpShooters are cheaper and seem to be more readily available through Amazon. At the time I’m writing these, they also feature a 4.6 out of 5 rating on Amazon with over 170 reviews. That’s really good for a broadhead.

Dead Ringer The Butcher Broadhead

Dead Ringer The Butcher broadheads also have a very similar look to the Magnus Stinger with a large main cut-on-contact head and smaller bleeder blades. The Dead Ringer heads feature a 0.925-inch cutting diameter and is only offered in 100-grain weight.

One thing that stands out to me on The Butcher broadhead is its long, tapered tip (as opposed to Magnus’s diamond tip). That lower blade angle makes The Butcher a great choice for anyone shooting a lower-poundage setup to help provide maximum penetration. On the flip side, the long, tapered tip will likely bend if it comes in contact with any hard bone, rocks or trees.

Dead Ringer’s website is lacking in information, so I can’t report on what the broadheads are made from or the thickness of the blades. I will mention that Dead Ringer’s reviews on Amazon are pretty favorable with a 4.4 out of 5 rating at the time I write this with over 220 reviews.

SIK F4 Fixed-Blade Broadhead

You probably haven’t heard of SIK broadheads. I hadn’t before I started researching for this article, but these appear to be great broadheads for traditional archery. These 100-grain, cut-on-contact, fixed-blade broadheads feature four blades for creating a maximum wound channel.

The laser-welded stainless steel broadhead features a .04-inch cut-on-contact main blade with .03-inch bleeder blades to deliver a 1.35″ cutting diameter. The 27° razor-honed edge angle on the full blade enables the F4 to cut forward or backward. All this wrapped into a compact design with field-point accuracy.

Summary

Choosing the best broadhead for traditional archery can be a pain, but you can’t go wrong with any of the ten broadheads featured in this article. Take into consideration what arrows you’ll be using, the overall weight you’re targeting with your arrow setup, and whether you’ll need a screw-in or glue-on broadhead. From there, you can try a few of the options listed here to help you find the perfect broadhead for your longbow or recurve bow this season.

If you have a favorite broadhead for your traditional archery setup not covered here, we’d love to hear about it! Feel free to drop us a note in the comments section below letting us know what you shoot.

Hornady has an incredible track record with cartridges over the last 20 years: 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 PRC, 300 PRC, 17HMR. The list goes on. In fact, I’d guess that 60% of the new hunting rifles in most gun stores today are chambered in a cartridge designed by Hornady.

The 7mm Precision Rifle Cartridge is a long-action centerfire rifle cartridge designed to shoot 180 grain bullets at 2,950 fps. It is intended for long-range shooting due to its ability to utilize high BC bullets, and is also uniquely suited for hunting large animals such as elk.

Pros and Cons of the 7mm PRC

Comparing 7mm PRC to Similar Cartridges

The 7mm PRC is similar to a 7mm Rem Mag, but it can shoot heavier bullets with higher BC’s, has no belt which causes problems for reloaders, and slightly less case capacity so longer barrels are not necessary. Think of it as a modernized 7mm Rem Mag.

The Precision Rifle Cartridge line is now broad enough that for many hunting uses, shooters will have a tough time deciding between the 6.5 PRC, 7 PRC, and 300 PRC.

As you can see from the above table, the 7mm PRC is most similar to the Gunwerks 7 LRM. In fact, Aaron Davidson, CEO of Gunwerks, jokingly said that the new 7PRC is the 7LRM. Obviously, there are many technical differences between the two, but they do fill a nearly identical hole in the market.

Personally, I have said for a long time on the Youtube channel that my ideal hunting cartridge would be a 7mm shooting 180 grains at 3,000 fps. That’s exactly what the 7PRC is, but it is by no means the only cartridge that offers those specs.

My prediction? The 7mm PRC will beat the following cartridges in sales over the next 20 years: 280AI, Gunwerks LRM, and the 7mm Rem Mag. Personally, I like all three of those cartridges for different reasons, but I think this new cartridge will become so popular over the next few years that those cartridges will quickly fade in the rearview mirror. Obviously, the 7mm Rem Mag isn’t going to just vanish in the next 10 years. It’s an incredibly popular cartridge, but over time, I expect the 7 PRC to overtake it.

The following table compares the 7 PRC to several other cartridges using Hornady’s Precision Hunter line of ammunition.

Recoil

The recoil of the 7mm PRC produces 27.7 ft-lbs of energy at a recoil velocity of 14.1 fps. That is more recoil than a .30-06 but less than a .300 Win Mag. It is on the upper end of what most large adult shooters can comfortably tolerate.

When I first shot the 7 PRC in a lightweight rifle, I was surprised by the stout recoil; however, adding a muzzle brake or a suppressor tames the rifle dramatically. I shot a coyote yesterday with the 7 PRC and had no problem seeing the bullet impact the coyote and the aftermath without losing my view of the target in the scope due to recoil.

7 PRC Cartridge Design

Before SAAMI drawings of the 7 PRC were released, I fully expected the 7 PRC to follow the industry-wide trend of overbore hot-rod cartridges. I thought for certain it would have more powder capacity than a 7 Mag so Hornady could advertise the new cartridge “beating” the old standard.

I was pleasantly surprised to see that the cartridge is quite mild. The 7 PRC has very slightly less case capacity than the 7mm Remington Magnum, but also has a twist rate and neck length capable of shooting much heavier bullets than are common in a 7 Mag.

Bullet Weights

The 7 PRC is designed around the 180-grain ELD-Match bullet; however, some people will certainly point to the fact that the 7mm Rem Mag has been able to shoot 180-grain bullets for many decades. The specified twist rate for each cartridge dramatically impacts the ability for a firearm to spin a bullet fast enough to stabilize a long bullet in flight.

Shooters will gravitate toward heavy-for-caliber high-BC bullets in the 7mm PRC. I have a table showing the highest BC 7mm bullets, but here are a few bullets likely to be popular in the 7mm PRC:

• 175gr Hornady ELD-X
• 160gr Hornady CX
• 180gr Hornady ELD-M
• 195gr Berger EOL
• 183gr Sierra MatchKing
• 180gr Berger VLD Target
• 180gr Berger VLD Hunting
• 175gr Berger Elite Hunter
• 175gr Nosler Accubond

Below are the specified twist rates for many similar cartridges to the 7 PRC. A faster twist in the rifling of a barrel allows the bullet to spin more quickly to stabilize longer (and consequently heavier) bullets.

Converting Your Rifle to a 7 PRC

Backfire was the first publication to put together a 7 PRC as soon as the SAAMI specs for the cartridge were released. Building a rifle with no reloading data and no established manufacturing was a challenge, but now you can easily get a rifle rebarreled for 7 PRC.

I highly recommend Preferred Barrel Blanks for this job. I had them make me a short 20″ carbon fiber-wrapped barrel chambered in 7 PRC. I’m getting impressive velocities despite the short length, and the accuracy has been insanely good-one of the most accurate rifles I’ve ever shot.

Be cautious when rebarreling a rifle into any of the “PRC” cartridges. Due to the extremely tight tolerances of these cartridges, I’ve seen MANY manufacturers struggle with delivering barrels that spike pressures or have brass that doesn’t fit right. The #1 reason I recommend Preferred Barrel Blanks is because they’ve sorted through those issues and can deliver problem-free prefit barrels.

The cool thing is that Preferred Barrel Blanks does prefits for just about any action you already have. You can get a new barrel for your Ruger American, Tikka, Bergara, Savage, etc. Or, you can of course use a custom action like a Terminus, Defiance, etc. As long as it’s a standard long-action, you should be just fine putting a 7 PRC barrel on it.

If you’re new to this, just call Preferred Barrel Blanks at (435) 635-6900 and tell them you read about them on Backfire and you want a 20″ carbon fiber-wrapped prefit barrel like the one they made for me. When it gets mailed to you, you screw it on and you have a 7 PRC! Simple as that. Below is a picture of the 7 PRC that Preferred Barrel Blanks built for me (Note: I also bought a MDT HNT26 chassis from them, which they had in stock).

Factory Rifles Offered in 7 PRC

I have a complete article on the best rifles available now in 7mm PRC.

As soon as the cartridge was officially announced, Hornady announced many rifle makers that will be producing factory offerings for the 7 PRC.

I was somewhat surprised by the list of firearms manufacturers who are not yet jumping on board with the 7 PRC. Tikka, Browning, and Bergara are conspicuously missing from the list and yet they all chamber for the 6.5 PRC.

Since this new cartridge has been announced, I’ve talked with my contacts at many of the major rifle manufacturers and have been surprised by how many of them are extremely frustrated with working on PRC chamberings in their rifles. There have been many changes to the reamer specs of the other PRC cartridges, and the tight tolerances make manufacturing difficult.

Reloading for the 7 PRC

I’ve done a significant amount of handloading and reloading for the 7 PRC over the last few months. Using dies from Whidden, I got to work.

Initially, I expected H1000 or Retumbo to be the best powders for the 7 PRC since they are fan favorites of the 7 Mag. I quickly saw that the 4 fewer grains of case capacity in the 7 PRC made these powders not ideal. So far, my favorite powder for reloading the 7 PRC is H4831SC using standard large rifle primers.

The challenge of loading for any of the PRC cartridges is the extremely tight tolerances. Even fairly experienced reloaders sometimes struggle to get reloaded brass to fit properly into the rifle.

Obviously Hornady makes dies for the 7 PRC, but I personally am not a fan of their dies. The only other company I’ve seen with die sets is Whidden Gunworks. They sent me their full-length bushing resizing die and micrometer seating die and I’ve been amazed with the quality. Seriously, it’s by far the nicest die set I’ve ever owned-and I’ve tried just about every brand out there.

Loading the 175gr ELD-X Bullet in the 7mm PRC

Important Note: This is anecdotal testing. Your results may vary. Unlike a load data book from one of the ammunition companies, I am not measuring pressure with a computer. I’m just looking at the brass for symptoms of being over-pressure, but sometimes those symptoms don’t show up until a cartridge is significantly overpressure as could be measured by a computer. This is for academic purposes only. Do not rely on my anecdotal testing for your rifle. If ya do… you might blow your face off.

First, let’s take a look at H4831SC powder loaded with a 175gr ELD-X bullet. This is using CCI Large Magnum primers, and shooting out of a 24″ test barrel.

Next, I loaded H1000. Unfortunately, the chronograph (Labradar) glitched out and didn’t record all the velocities, but I did at least shoot the following two that were recorded. Note that BOTH of these are a compressed load, so you couldn’t really go much faster than this with H1000.

This is again shooting the 175gr ELD-X bullet out of 24″ test barrel with a large magnum CCI primer.

Last, I shot Accurate Magpro powder with the same 175gr ELD-X and CCI large magnum primer out of a 24″ test barrel. Here’s what I found.

I also received some information from a gentleman in Canada who built a 7PRC. Here’s what he reported using a 175gr ELDX, Federal 215M primers, and Reloder26 powder. Here’s that data using his 24.5″ barrel:

After seeing these numbers, I’m most interested in pursuing H4831SC for this cartridge. H1000 ran out of space for powder before I reached max velocity. Magpro had a lot of case capacity left, but wasn’t getting the velocity I’d hope to see without just burning a ton of powder.

Personally, my load for the 175 ELD-X in the 7mm PRC will be 64gr of H4831SC, which should yield around 2,925fps. I believe that should be a max load but still safe in my rifle, efficient loading, and impressive speed.

It seems that the cartridge was designed to compress the load right at the point where you’d reach pressure with these common powders.

Interestingly, I loaded 61.2 grains of H4831SC in a 7mm Remington Magnum, and a 7mm PRC. I used the same primer, and the same 175gr ELDX bullet. However, the 7mm PRC shot on average 105 fps faster.

There is still quite a bit more case capacity left with Magpro (my guess would be you could go to 77 grains before it compresses), so that could be an option for max velocity, but you’d be going through quite a bit more powder to get there.

Loading the 195 Berger EOL Bullet in the 7mm PRC

For this load, I chose the 195 Berger EOL and loaded it to max COAL of 3.34″. I used CCI large magnum rifle primers, and lovingly caressed each bullet before sending it on the ride of its life. I’m still using the same 24″ test barrel by Preferred Barrel Blanks for this cartridge.

Loading the 150gr Hornady CX Bullet in the 7mm PRC

Note that with these loads, I switch to a standard large rifle primer-not a magnum primer.

I personally worked up my load using the 150gr Hornady CX bullet, but now Hornady has announced a new 160gr CX bullet with a much higher BC and only one band instead of the two bands on the 150gr CX. I will likely switch to that bullet once it becomes available.

Surprisingly, the factory ammunition for the 160gr CX bullet offers the same 3,000fps muzzle velocity as the 175gr ELD-X bullet. I expected it to go a little faster in the CX due to the lighter weight, but copper bullets can also increase pressures, so it seems that Hornady wasn’t able to get any increased speed out of it.

History of the 7mm PRC

Hornady officially announced the cartridge on October 26, 2022 at the NASGW Expo. The 7mm PRC was approved by SAAMI on June 7, 2022 and the public introduction was released on June 16, 2022. Backfire’s Youtube channel was the first publication to break the story of the cartridge’s SAAMI approval, and Backfire was also the first group to build a 7mm PRC and show it to the public.