Even if you’re brand new to archery, you’ve probably heard the term bow sight before. But what is it, and why is it significant?

Bow sight refers to a component of the bow that allows you to adjust your aim to shoot more accurately. When it’s not calibrated correctly, however, it can lead to accuracy issues. Bow sight adjustments rectify this.

Now that we’ve squared away those basics, it’s time to get more in-depth about how to adjust a bow sight so you can shoot with pinpoint accuracy. Ready? Let’s dive in now!

What Is a Bow Sight & Why Does It Matter?

Bow sights are the part of an archery bow that allows you to adjust your sightlines and aim your bow better to create a perfectly-aligned shot. Shooting with laser precision is possible with a bow sight, so long as you move the sight pins to their proper spots, which can be done by adjusting the sight housing.

Four Common Types of Archery Bows

Not all archery bows are created equal. In fact, bows come in four main types:

1. Recurve
2. Longbow
3. Compound
4. Crossbow

The compound bow is perhaps the most common type, but bow sights across all four types of bows are, by and large, fairly similar. Thus, the process for adjusting a bow sight on different bows should be fairly similar as well.

When it comes to compound bow sight adjustment, the more pressing question is whether or not your bow sight is single-pin or multi-pin.

How to Recognize It’s Time for a Bow Sight Adjustment

Are you sighting properly and still not hitting the target? Is it happening again and again? It’s probably not your aim that’s at fault, but rather, the way your bow sight is calibrated.

How to Level Your Bow Sight

Before you get to adjusting a bow sight, you need to adjust the leveling of the sight. There are several axes to adjust the leveling, including a second axis and a third axis.

The second axis level can be seen through the hole of the sight. Imagine hanging a picture on a wall and leveling it. That’s second-axis leveling. Now, imagine leaning a picture up against a wall vs. hanging it straight up and down: that’s third-axis leveling, which is important if you’re going to be shooting at angles (i.e on the unlevel ground).

Leveling in either instance is as simple as loosening the sight (via allen wrench, normally) and then adjusting until the bubble of the level is centered.

How to Adjust Compound Bow Sight: Single vs. Multi-Pin

Adjusting a bow sight looks different when the bow sight in question is single-pin compared to multi-pin. Let’s break down the steps of bow sight adjustment for each type of pin setup below.

Adjusting a Multi-Pin Bow Sight

Most archers today use multi-pin bow sights. They employ a range of site pins – normally, three, five, or seven – that can be set as aiming references for different distances – normally, 20 yards, 30 yards, 40 yards, 50 yards, and 60 yards. Often, the 20-yard pin will be the top pin and the 60-yard pin will be the bottom pin.

If it’s your first time shooting with a new sight, you’ll have to calibrate it, since you won’t know where your arrow will hit compared to the pins.

Though the highest pin will generally be 20 yards, it’s recommended to start shooting from a distance of 10 yards, using a large target so there’s more margin of error for adjustment.

Shoot, aiming for the bulls-eye, and take note of where the arrow lands. If it is too far in one direction, you’ll want to move the sight in that same direction (i.e. if your arrow hits the left of the bulls-eye, you move the sight housing left). Adjusting the sight is generally done with an allen wrench, which you can buy at any archery shop.

Once you’ve calibrated the pin for 20 yards, you’ll move to each subsequent pin. It’s important to note that you don’t want to move the pins themselves. You want the pins set in their original position until after you’ve calibrated the bow sight entirely. Then, as you shoot, you can move each pin within the sight if needed for minor adjustments.

Adjusting a Single-Pin Bow Sight

Sighting in a single-pin bow can be harder than in a multi-pin sight because it’s difficult to gauge your initial adjustments. That said, the process of actually making those adjustments is fairly simple.

The fundamentals of sight adjustment are the same: make sure you’re adjusting the sight and taking note of where your arrows are landing in relation to the target.

To adjust a single-pin bow sight, you’ll want to loosen the scope housing, then adjust it up and down to shoot from different distances.

You can also move your scope left and right by loosening the scope and re-tightening it.

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Interested in pushing past the 100-yard line? Want to get into long range shooting but are confused with all the terminology and myths surrounding it?

Today’s goal is to get you to a solid starting place to build and improve on for years to come.

We’ll lay out some of our recommended rifles for beginner precision shooters as well as point out other considerations to think about when choosing your first precision rifle.

So, keep reading to learn more about what you’ll need to get those long-range shots!

THE QUICK LIST

Best Long Range & Precision Rifles

1. Tikka T3X CTR

From the factory, the CTR comes with quite a few desirable features.

A hammer-forged and threaded barrel makes for an accurate shooter ready to accept a suppressor. That’s almost a requirement these days.

The action is straight enough to accept aftermarket pre-fit barrels without any machine work needed.

Not to mention, the scope base uses lugs and screws for attachment. This creates a rock-solid attachment system.

The safety locks the bolt in place, preventing any unwanted opening, and that’s especially handy if you use it as a hunting rifle.

Its stock is a bit basic, but it’s sturdy enough to prevent flex, lending to an accurate rifle.

Personally, I consider the CTR a phenomenal starter rifle since they’re very accurate out-of-the-box.

But don’t worry; you can upgrade this series with a plethora of aftermarket parts.

2. Tikka T3X TAC A1

The T3X TAC A1 is the bigger, more well-featured brother of the CTR.

It uses the same action and barrel but adds a few tricks…

Starting from the front, it sports a threaded barrel with a large 3-port brake. This brake reduces recoil but can also be removed for suppressor use.

A 2-stage, adjustable weight trigger, replaces the standard Tikka trigger.

But the biggest and most noticeable feature is the chassis. It offers an M-LOK forend upfront for attaching all the accessories you want.

This rifle also brings aluminum bedding blocks for the action.

And the factory grip is comfortable but can also be swapped for your favorite AR-pattern grip. We prefer versatility at PPT!

The rear end features a folding stock that is adjustable for length-of-pull and comb height. But it uses a standard AR-15 interface…you know that means…

It can be swapped for your preferred stock.

3. Ruger Precision Rifle

Ruger jumped into the precision rifle world with the Ruger Precision Rifle, and they knocked it out of the park!

With the growing popularity of precision rifle matches, Ruger reached out to some of the experts in the field to collaborate on a rifle. And the RPR was born.

This is truly the AR-15 of the bolt-rifle world…a list of aftermarket parts would require its own lengthy article.

From the factory, it comes with a threaded barrel, all sitting on a cold hammer-forged 5R rifled barrel.

An aluminum M-LOK forend accompanies the front of the gun for attaching accessories.

One of the key features of this rifle, though, is its magazine adaptability. It will easily handle DPMS pattern, Magpul PMAGS, and industry-standard AICS mags.

An adjustable trigger, standard AR-15 safety, and grip complete the fire controls.

Moving on, it comes with a fully adjustable, folding buttstock. This stock is adjustable for both length-of-pull and comb height.

And it uses a standard AR-15 interface, so the RPR works with any aftermarket option.

Oh, and did we mention that the Ruger Precision Rimfire makes an excellent trainer rifle that will keep things consistent but cut down on ammo costs.

4. Bergara B-14 HMR

The Bergara B-14 HMR rifle hits every mark for anyone that wants a solid crossover platform.

A number of people have gotten into the precision rifle game to further their skills in the field, and instead of building two separate rifles…why not buy one that can perform at the distance range and the hunting field? It just makes sense.

Like some other models, the B-14 HMR offers a match-grade threaded barrel with a thread protector. You’ll have to supply your own break if you want one, though.

The receiver is patterned after the Remington 700, which means it accepts any Remington 700 base or aftermarket stock.

A match-grade trigger adds to the features.

Its factory stock features an aluminum mini chassis for accuracy and molded-in QD flush cups for your favorite sling.

Length-of-pull and comb height adjustments help fit the rifle to any shooter. Bergara also offers a matching .22 LR training rifle for cheap practice.

5. Accuracy International AT

Alright, guys, here it is, my one wild card…

Accuracy International’s AT is the next generation of the wildly popular Accuracy International Arctic Warfare — one of the most widely issued military sniper rifles in the world.

While many aftermarket parts are available right out of the box, this rifle needs no improvement.

For starters, it provides a match-grade threaded barrel fitted to the receiver with AI’s quick loc system.

Ever wanted to change calibers at the drop of a hat?

Well, now you can. The quick loc system barrels make swapping calibers easy with just a 4mm hex key and about two minutes of time.

This rifle’s receiver is flat-bottomed and bonded to a rigid aluminum chassis, and the bolt features six lugs and a short and fast 60-degree throw.

A match-grade 2-stage trigger helps you realize all of the rifle’s accuracy potential.

The AT also delivers a 3-position safety with some unique features. Position one is safe, locking the bolt in place and rendering the trigger safe, while position two keeps the trigger safe but allows you to run the bolt to safely unload the rifle. And position three is fire.

Covering the aluminum chassis is a set of molded plastic skins that users can switch out for any color they desire.

The stock also features multiple sling attachment points in either a folder or fixed version.

If all you want to do for a rifle is mount a quality optic and get to shooting, the AT proves hard to beat.

Dependability and consistency are the hallmarks of the AT line of rifles.

.308 Winchester vs. 6.5 Creedmoor: Which Caliber Is Better for Long Range Shooting?

.308 Winchester has been the go-to standard in long range shooting for the last half-century for a few reasons…

Tons of available match ammo and regular plinking ammo exist for it — from match grade to surplus. If you decide to reload your own ammo down the road, an abundance of bullets and reloading data is available…more so than nearly any other round.

But how do you save money when shooting this round? Keep your expensive match ammo for the longer distances and use cheaper surplus ammo for close-in positional work.

6.5 Creedmoor

What about 6.5 Creedmoor?

6.5 Creedmoor is the newer, cooler kid on the block. It pushes out farther and drops less than a .308.

Factory match-grade ammo is available with good quality. While overall ammo choices and reloading data aren’t as prevalent as a .308, quality ammo is still readily available.

So, which do you choose — .308 Win or 6.5CM?

Honestly, both options are proven choices for beginners.

Twist Rates & Precision Shooting

I’m sure everyone has seen the markings on the side of a rifle barrel — 1/10, 1/8 — but what do these numbers mean?

Basically, it refers to the length of the barrel required to make one full turn of the rifling. So, 1/10 would translate to 1 full turn in 10 inches of barrel length.

Twist rates are important because they stabilize the bullet at longer ranges, especially when it starts going into the trans-sonic and sub-sonic territory.

For a beginner rifle, you want something with a very versatile twist rate as you try different ammunition or handloads to find your preferred ammo.

With a .308 Win, a 1/10 twist is generally preferred. Over the course of my career with precision rifles, I’ve never run across a bullet that won’t perform well in a 1/10.

On the other hand, with a 6.5 Creedmoor, a 1/8 twist will be your most versatile option. All of the lighter weight hunting bullets up to the heavier precision rifle bullets will perform well with this twist rate.

Upgrading a Precision or Long-Range Rifle

This is going to be a big one…

Since this is a beginner rifle article, you’ll probably want to upgrade and accessorize. One trip to your local, long-distance range or precision rifle match, and you’ll be dreaming of new parts.

From stocks, chassis systems, magazines, triggers, and even barrels…using a rifle platform that can be upgraded with aftermarket parts is huge!

Accessories like bases, rings, bipods, and stocks can make or break a rifle. I’m not saying you have to buy the most expensive accessories, but solid quality parts will keep your rifle performing, and you focused on the target.

Since you need to see what you’re aiming at, a good scope is an absolute must.

Yet again, the most expensive is not always needed. With the rising popularity of distance shooting, a lot of companies have started to produce solid optics at very reasonable pricing.

When shopping, match the reticle to the task — a duplex hunting reticle will not do any good when trying to do holdovers at distance.

And try not to overdo the magnification — believe it or not, too much can hinder you. A good 3-18 or 5-25 can cover most situations.

Lastly, repeatable adjustments are a necessity. They keep your rifle and you consistent at longer distances.

Things to Consider When Choosing a Precision Rifle

Know Your Goal

My best piece of advice for anyone wanting to get into the long-range game is to have a clear idea of the end goal.

I’ve seen many people buy the hot commodity of the week that doesn’t fit with what they need in a rifle. This is a costly, aggravating path to take.

Easy Maintenance

One of my biggest priority’s when it comes to rifle selection is being able to maintain it.

That means having the ability to swap major parts like triggers, barrels, and stocks without taking it to a gunsmith.

Maintaining out-of-the-box accuracy without any additional expenses accurizing or bedding is a big factor. Personally, I want the ability to do the work at my own workbench, and you probably do too.

Price

Long range set-ups can run a little more than your average rifle, but with the out-of-box features and adaptability, a little investment up front will save you a lot of money in the long run.

Conclusion

With a bit of planning and forethought, the path to precision rifle shooting can be a fun and rewarding journey.

Hopefully, we’ve given you a good list of rifles to consider when shopping and some other considerations to factor in when making that final selection.

What are your favorite long range rifles? Let us know in the comments below. Need some scope recommendations? Check out our guide to the Best Long Range Scopes.

A break barrel air rifle is a great investment for anyone who enjoys hunting or shooting. However, like any other firearm, it requires regular maintenance to keep it in good working condition. In this blog post, we’ll walk you through the steps of how to clean a break barrel air rifle so that you can keep it in a top shape.

Clean The Barrel (Internal)

Use a bore guide to protect the muzzle and chamber of your air rifle while you clean the barrel. Insert a cleaning rod into the bore guide, and attach a patch jag to the end of the rod. Soak a cleaning patch in gun solvent, and run it through the barrel from breech to muzzle several times. Repeat this process with a dry patch until the patches come out clean. Finally, run a few patches soaked in gun oil through the barrel to protect it from rust.

Clean the Barrel (External)

Use a soft cloth to wipe down the outside of the barrel. Be sure to pay special attention to the breach area, as this is where dirt and debris are most likely to build up.

Clean the scope

Use a soft cloth or lens brush to remove any dust or fingerprints from the surface of your scope lens. If there is any build-up on the lens, you can use lens cleaner and a soft cloth to gently remove it.
Never use harsh chemicals or abrasive materials on your scope lens, as this could damage it.

Clean The Woodwork

Use a soft cloth or polish specifically designed for wood surfaces to wipe down your air rifle’s stock. Be sure not to use any harsh chemicals or cleaners, as these can damage the wood.

Clean The Action

The action is the part of your air rifle that loads, cocks, and fires the pellets. To clean it, start by removing any dirt and debris with a soft brush or cloth. Once you’ve removed all of the visible dirt, lightly lubricate all moving parts with gun oil before reassembling your air rifle.

Clean The Trigger

Remove any dirt or debris from around the trigger using a small brush or toothpick. Then, lightly lubricate the trigger mechanism with gun oil before reassembling your air rifle.

Conclusion

By following these simple steps, you can easily clean your break barrel air rifle and keep it in good working condition for years to come. Regular cleaning and maintenance will also help increase its accuracy and lifespan. Thanks for reading!

Introduction

The straight answer to this question is yes, you can fire common 7.62X51 military ammo in any currently produced rifle chambered for .308 Winchester. However, there is more than one reason for this evaluation.

The 7.62×51 NATO cartridge is specific and it is built for military specifications. The reason is to make the round able to operate both belt-fed machine guns and semi-automatic rifles. The current specification for 7.62×51 is a pressure limit of 50,000 psi. And it is best for operating the M14, machine guns, and other semi-auto gas guns that the military uses.

As for the .308 Winchester ammunition, the pressure limit is SAAMI standardized at 62.000 psi. It makes a slight difference in cartridge specs between the military round and the .308 Winchester as currently produced. Therefore, the basic understanding is that the military cartridge will fit and fire in currently produced .308 rifles.

Normally, in a typical gun saloon bar discussion, the most heated debate is asking a bunch of people about the differences between .308 Winchester and 7.62x51mm NATO. There is a variety of responses that often include

• They are not different
• There is a difference
• They might be different

Weirdly all those statements are all quite true. As it may be confusing to grasp, this article will try to explain it in a way that you will not bash your brains out. I will try to be void of making you read all the nuances of things like piezo transducers.

There are only limited categories of comparison and this will pretty much mess things up.

Understanding the Difference Between 7.62×51 and 308 Winchester

Before we delve much further, I must address this often-posed question “Are the 7.62×51 NATO and .308 Winchester the same?”

Again, the answer is NO. It is because of the differences in maximum pressures and the chamber specs. Nobody makes a 7.62mm (NATO) ammo that is not fitting to the .308 ‘headspace’ dimension spec. As a rule, this makes the 7.62mm ammo fit into .308 chambers.

But if you go the other way, you can encounter problems. A commercial .308 Winchester round exceeds the maximum rated pressure for the 7.62×51 ammo. If this is the case, avoid putting full-power .308 Win rounds into military rifles designed for a maximum pressure of 50,000 psi.

7.62 vs .308 – Pressure

The pressure is where most people get confused when analyzing the two ammo. The maximum pressure numbers for the two calibers are 50,000 psi for 7.62 and 62,000 psi for .308. At a glance, it appears to be a big difference and a reason to consider it unsafe to fire. The logic is, do not fire a higher pressure commercial .308 cartridge in a rifle built for 7.62x51mm NATO.

While it is true that a .308 ammo has a slightly higher pressure than 7.62x51mm NATO, the reality is that the brass and chambers are the issues to understand.

Here you must concentrate on the details. I put it that the 50,000 number is an accurate representation of copper units of pressure or CUP. It is a less precise way to measure pressure, as the method relies on looking at how much little copper disks compress when you fire the gun.

As things are, there is no consistent mathematical formula that equates CUP to pounds per square inch (PSI). The difference, therefore, in this specific case lies somewhere around 8,000. What this implies is that the maximum pressure for 7.62x51mm NATO is about 58,000 psi and not so far from 62,000 figures for the .308 Winchester.

If both loads are routinely proof tested at far higher levels, the 4,000 difference will not alter the trajectory.

7.62 NATO vs .308 Winchester – Case thickness

Measuring the thickness of the cartridge is quite challenging. I have developed a simpler way of doing it and it helps explain the difference. The process involves the representation of all sets of ammo. From my big bucket selection, I took both the .308 Winchester and 7.62x51mm NATO brass and weighed them. I further picked several of each from different brands and averaged the weights. I could not measure the cases because I had not fired them yet. And also because it will not tell me much other than the general size of the chamber from which they were fired.

The Winchester .308 weighs 163.3 grains while the Lake City 7.62x51mm NATO weighs 183.5 grains. As you can see this is a significant difference. When the thicker walls combine with similar exterior dimensions this means less powder capacity and the result is a lower- top end. All else the same, the result is a lower velocity and pressure.

The thicker brass of 7.62 cases is a significant factor and you will understand it better in what we discuss next.

7.62 NATO vs .308 Winchester – Headspace

The headspace is where we will get to the real difference. Military rifles for 7.62x51mm NATO usually do have longer chambers. There is a need for reliable feeding and there can be slack if you consider firing a machine gun powered with ammo made from all over the world. The operation needs to be smooth considering all the force used between the feeding and ejection process.

The solution is making the chamber headspace a bit longer. The headspace is the distance from the bolt face to the point in the chamber that stops the forward motion of the cartridge case. Therefore if headspace is too small, the bolt will not close properly or will require excess force to close. And if the chamber headspace is too long for a cartridge, it will float back and forth in the chamber.

The .308 Winchester chamber headspace is between 1.630 and 1.6340 inches. While that for 7.62x51mm NATO is between 1.6355 and 1.6405 inches. The slight difference in size might not seem like a big deal until you fire a thinner brass in a long-chambered rifle. The disaster is that the brass will stretch, perhaps enough to lead to a dangerous case rupture.

However, if you try the same with a thicker military brass, it is no big deal because of the way the system is designed. Using a thicker brass makes it handle the extra stretching into a longer chamber throat. The solution to the title question is to know your rifle and what its headspace is. Once you know this info you will determine if it is safe to shoot a .308 Winchester ammo in a 7.62 chamber.

How Can I Know if My Headspace is Safe?

To know if your headspace is safe is not a challenging task. You can use the set of .308 Winchester Go / No-Go headspace gauges. Use the gauges to check the chamber size. The bolt should close easily on a Go gauge and not close on a No-Go gauge. Also, the field gauge checks the maximum published chamber size. With some 7.62 rifles, you might find that the bolt still closes on the No-Go gauge. As long as the bolt closes, you are still within maximum published limits.

The Technicalities

In terms of specifications, there are differences, more so in the chambers of rifles designed to fire each cartridge. For the 7.62 brass is a bit thicker, and with the .308 is sometimes loaded to be slightly higher pressure. Other than that, the cartridges are pretty much the same.

One way to be entirely safe is to remain conservative and only fire 7.62x51m NATO in 7.62 chambered rifles and .308 Winchester in .308 rifles.

A final risk spectrum is just a scenario. In the case of using 7.62x51mm NATO ammo in a .308 chamber. In theory, you might run across particularly long ammo. Such ammo might not chamber or might require undue pressure to the chamber. The result could be dangerously high pressure. While such a scenario is highly unlikely as the 7.62 ammo to be significantly longer, is a pretty rare thing. It is why not most people will consider it a big deal to use 7.62 ammo in a .308 chambered rifle.

The Reverse Is Not True

However, you need to be careful while using .308 Winchester commercial ammo in a 7.62x51mm NATO chambered rifle. Even though the most modern 7.62 chambers tend to be cut almost closer to match the .308 dimensions, it is always safe to know exactly what you have in terms of headspace. If your rifle has a long headspace, stick to 7.62 NATO ammo. Do not use the .308 Winchester.

Great gear to bring along when visiting the range!

Conclusion

If you put everything else into consideration then the actual pressure differences between the .308 Win. and 7.62 NATO is not that large. However, it is a point of concern. Nonetheless, a tight chamber or an overly dirty chamber could pose a pressure issue. You don’t want to risk damaging a firearm and certainly never wish to see anyone hurt from negligence. It is why it is important to keep the golden rule in mind. A .308 Winchester chamber rifle can handle both .308 Win. and 7.62 NATO ammo safely, but a 7.62 rifle is only safe for a 7.62 NATO ammo.

Black trumpet mushrooms, also known as the horn of plenty or horn of death. Don’t let the name confuse you though-these are one of the best wild mushrooms to harvest, hunt and cook, and are valued around the world as a gourmet ingredient and choice edible mushroom.

In this post I’m going to share with you everything I know about hunting, identifying, harvesting and cooking these mushrooms, along with some of my favorite recipes for black trumpets at the end.

For reference, I’m in the Midwest, so most of what I discuss here for hunting will refer to Craterellus fallax as it’s the most common species near me. Older field guides may use the name Craterellus cornucopiodes, now seen as a European species.

Where to Find Black Trumpet Mushrooms

In mid-summer, typically early July through October, (I’ve picked them as late as November) I will start to check my patches. Where do black trumpets grow? In my area, around white and red oak trees. One species (Craterellus caeruleofuscus) grows with pines, but isn’t as widely available.

One of the best parts about these mushrooms is the sheer volume you can find, when, and if you find the right kind of patch. The harvests will vary from year to year depending on seasonal conditions, but there will usually be some.

Two friends of mine have near-legendary patches in Minnesota, that, on a good year, with an extra hand or two, you could pick 30, 40lbs or more. As trumpets are very light weight compared to others, that kind of quantity is massive.

Wet and decaying areas

Often when you’re hunting these I look for moist, shady areas. They may be close to a small source of water or a wet/swampy area where there’s decaying and dead wood. Golden chanterelles, by comparison may occasionally be nearby, but I don’t see them as much in wet areas as I do trumpets.

At least to me, black trumpets seem to operate in two ways: mycorrhizal and saprobic, meaning that they grow both in harmony with certain trees, and will seem to live off of decaying matter. Contrastingly, golden chanterelles are only mycorrhizal.

Most of the time with mushrooms from my experience, they’ll be one or the other but not both, which makes trumpets extra special.

A good trick to remember when you’re searching for new patches is that trumpets like to be often in the same areas as some of their other chanterelle cousins, especially the yellowfoot chanterelle which is much easier to spot from a distance as it isn’t black.

If you see one of the orange mushrooms pictured above, or golden chanterelles, it’s a good indication you’re on the right track.

Sphagnum moss

It isn’t true everywhere, but trumpets seem to have an affinity for sphagnum moss. When I’m in a forest with red or white oaks, and I start seeing sphagnum moss during the summer, I make sure to keep my eyes open for trumpets.

More often than not, when I see moss and start looking closely, and walking slowly, I’ll find some.

Black Trumpet Mushroom Identification

Found across North America, black trumpets are one of the easiest wild mushrooms to identify, with nearly no real look-a-likes. Your biggest challenge will be finding a good patch at the right time.

Black trumpets

• Have a whitish to creamy spore print.
• Have an unique aroma I describe as dark and intensely sweet aroma of apricots that are nearly overripe. Golden chanterelles, by comparison, smell like fresh apricots.
• Are mostly black, or shades of grey, but one species is nearly blue (see below) and white, albino mutations are also possible.
• Often grow clustered, with a shape like a horn or funnel.
• Do not have gills, but can have false gills. They may have veins that are difficult to see on the outside (called the spore-bearing surface or hymenium) or the veins may be more pronounced with some specimens-see below.

Different Species

There’s more than one species to learn about and enjoy, each one with slightly different characteristics. Two I’ve found are craterellus foetidus and craterellus cinereus, which some may call black chanterelles, but there’s others too.

No matter what kinds grow near you, one thing’s for certain: if it’s a true black trumpet it’s edible and delicious, and knowing the exact species is purely academic. If you’re like me though, the more you learn about wild mushrooms, the more you’ll want to know the exact types your finding.

Look Alikes

Some consider devil’s urn (Urnula craterium) a trumpet look alike, but they’re more cup-shaped and appear in the spring. They’re edible, but don’t taste very good.

Cleaning Black Trumpet Mushrooms

Cleaning starts in the field. Some people just pull the mushrooms out of the ground and put them in a basket-don’t do that. To avoid dirty mushrooms that can ruin your food with grit, I pull them from the ground, cut the end off, along with any dirt, then put them in the basket.

If I’m going to a patch where I expect to harvest lots of mushrooms, I like to bring a scissors since I can just bend down and snip-snip-snip, leaving the dirty bottoms behind and keeping all the mushrooms in my bag clean.

If my trumpets are very clean, I just open them up, leaving them in one piece, and give them a brush with a mushroom or pastry brush.

One of the best things about these mushrooms is that they’re often very clean, and may not need any additional trimming after they’re cut from the field, if you pick clean and carefully.

If my trumpets are a dirty or it’s rained recently, I slice them in half lengthwise and then give them a gentle dip in some cool water, working quickly so that they don’t absorb too much liquid.

After you wash them, just set them on some paper or cloth towels to air dry a bit and shed any water that may be sticking to them. I describe this a bit in the video below.

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How to Cook Black Trumpet Mushrooms

Black trumpet mushrooms have one of the most potent flavors of all wild mushrooms, especially when fresh.

They may be fragile or small, but they pack a punch. It’s hard to describe exactly what black trumpets taste like besides saying they’re delicious, but the flavor is a sort of a rich, earthy, oddly sweet and fruity taste that will remind you of fresh apricots and ripe stone fruit, with a bitter note at the end. It’s a delicious, unique taste.

One of the best things about these is their versatility. If you’ve just come back from a long hunt, there’s nothing wrong with just tossing some mushrooms in a pan with butter.

But if you have more time, you can make all kinds of things, limited only by your time and imagination. Here’s a few things I think are helpful.

Quick tips

• As they’re hollow, trumpets cook very fast-so don’t overcook them.
• A large amount will wilt down to a fraction of it’s size in the pan.
• Trumpets will turn other foods they come into contact with black or grey if the mushrooms are fresh.
• Another name for them is poor man’s truffle. Finely chop them as a (visual) substitute for black truffles.
• With a sweet aroma and tender texture, these can work in sweet and savory dishes, such as candying.
• Black trumpets can be eaten raw in small amounts as a garnish.

Like most mushrooms, these marry wonderfully with cream. Like other chanterelles, I would encourage you to cook these by themselves first, and keep things simple as their flavor can be overwhelmed by strong flavors like excessive garlic, smoked food, spices, and spicy/hot seasonings.

Bitterness

Use trumpets with a light hand at first as they can be bitter if you use too many in a dish. The bitterness will concentrate itself, so be careful when making reduction-type sauces, for example: purees, or putting too many in a soup.

The bitterness is a bit of an acquired tastes, and most mushroom hunters grow to like and crave it to some extent. It’s not unpleasant, but some sensitive people may not like it.

How to Dry Black Trumpet Mushrooms

There’s a few different ways you can preserve trumpets, but drying is by far the best. Luckily, as black trumpets are hollow, they dry like a dream, and are one of the best mushrooms for drying and using in the off season as they don’t get tough. To dry the mushrooms, I look over them for debris, then put in a dehydrator at 120-145F until cracker dry, typically overnight.

Occasionally I’ve left mushrooms spread out on cookie sheets with a ceiling fan blowing on them and found them naturally dehydrated after a day or two-something you can’t do with golden chanterelles.

Once they’re cracker dry, I store the mushrooms in a sealed glass container or mason jar. For cooking, rehydrate the mushrooms by covering with warm liquid, stock, or alcohol. Remove the mushrooms, strain the liquid for debris, adding the mushrooms back to their liquid for whatever recipe you’re making, or simply frying them up and discarding the liquid if you don’t need it.

Black Trumpet Mushroom Recipes

Here’s some of my favorite black trumpet recipes, or places where they can be substituted. One of the most unique things about these mushrooms is that they can work in savory as well as some sweet applications, so find a few of both below.

• Black Trumpet Pasta
• Candied Trumpets
• Sweet Mushroom Jam
• Jacques Chibois’s Carbonara of Chanterelles and Black Trumpets
• Baked Fish with Trumpet Crust
• Rack of Lamb or Venison with Dried Trumpet Crust
• Black Trumpet Coulis
• Rabbit Braised In Milk, with Trumpets And Carrots

More Trumpet Recipes

More

35 Essential Wild Mushrooms Every Forager Should Know

References

David Arora: Wild Mushrooms Demystified

MushroomExpert.com: Craterellus Fallax

We can’t think of a better form of social distancing than spending time farming for wildlife. A goal for all GamKeepers and hunters is having a healthy deer herd. Spring and summer are critical months in a whitetail’s life; bucks are rebuilding their bodies from a rigorous winter and starting the amazing antler genesis process. Does have the task of eating for two or three as most of them are carrying fawns to be born later in summer. Consistent, protein-rich food sources are key to helping your deer reach their potential. Mossy Oak BioLogic has a wide variety of spring/summer plantings to fit every wildlife manager’s needs. Invest in the best warm season food plots now, and make sure to give your wildlife the nutrition they need during the critical growing months.

Wildlife Sweet Corn

BioLogic’s Wildlife Sweet Corn is a blend of 3 varieties of conventional, open-pollinated (think heirloom) corn that have over a century of proven reliability. BioLogic’s Wildlife Sweet Corn has a sugar content higher than that of new hybrids, and is generally consumed earlier in the fall/winter especially when planted in areas with surrounding agricultural corn. The higher protein and nutrient content of this “sweet” corn is a major bonus for your wildlife. These proven, open-pollinated varieties of corn are non-GMO, and are not glyphosate resistant, but can be paired with conventional corn herbicides.

When to Plant Wildlife Sweet Corn

Wildlife Sweet Corn needs 90-100 days of warm growing to reach maturity and maximum yield. Plant late April to early June for the South, early May to early June for the North.

How to Plant Wildlife Sweet Corn

Corn should be planted at 1.5-2 inches soil depth. Planters and no-till drills are ideal for planting if available. Corn can also be broadcast planted into a well prepared seed bed. Corn seed should be covered to the suggested depth by using a drag harrow or by lightly disking in. Ideally the field can also then be cultipacked or rolled for increased seedling survival. As a bonus, this sweet corn is awesome to take home a few ears and feed your family with!

Clover Plus

Few plants are more effective at attracting whitetail and turkey than clover. BioLogic’s Clover Plus is a perennial blend of our New Zealand Red and White clovers and extremely successful varieties of chicory. Developed specifically for a whitetails stomach, Clover Plus produces larger, more succulent leaves and thinner stems for higher nutritional value and improved digestibility. Both clover and chicory are extremely hardy and drought-resistant, yielding consistent production through the hot months of summer. It’s a combination of high nutrition, great attraction and consistent growth that deer can’t resist.

When to Plant Clover Plus

In the south, plant Clover Plus in early fall, as soon as soil moisture is sufficient for seed germination. Spring planting isn’t recommended; frequent summer drought conditions could limit root growth. In the north, plant Clover Plus in the spring when soil temperature is 50 degrees or higher and soil moisture is sufficient. Fall planting isn’t recommended; frost may occur before root systems are established. This blend can also be frost-seeded in the spring.

How to Plant Clover Plus

Clover Plus is best planted by spreading on a well-prepared seedbed at 9 pounds per acre, then using a cultipacker or light drag to cover the seed. Grasses can be controlled in Clover Plus using a grass specific herbicide such as clethodim.

Spring Protein Peas

BioLogic Spring Protein Pea is an annual warm season planting that is designed to provide maximum nutrition for your deer herd through the critical growing months. Protein Peas is a very drought and browse tolerant planting that grows in a wide variety of soil types and is great for hot climates. In areas of high deer density, Protein Peas may need protection with BioLogic’s P2 Plot Protector so plants can get established.

When to Plant Spring Protein Peas

Spring Protein Peas can be planted anytime in the spring or summer months. For maximum forage output, plant in spring 2-3 weeks after the last frost for your region when soil temperatures reach 55-60 degrees.

How to Plant Spring Protein Peas

Spring Protein Peas can be broadcast onto a well prepared seed bed and covered to 1 inch of soil depth. Seeds left on the soil surface may have poor germination and be eaten by pests. Without a current soil test to go by, fertilize with 200-300 pounds per acre of 0-20-20 or a comparable low or no nitrogen fertilizer. This blend can also be planted with a no-till drill or similar planters, use the setting for small peas at 30-35 pounds per acre. Set planting depth to 1 inch. Spring Protein Peas can be sprayed with grass specific herbicides to kill any grass competition in the plot.

WhistleBack

This same principal of proper timing and planning applies for other plantings for doves, ducks, pheasants, etc. Planting areas specifically for birds is beneficial for a property not just from a hunting standpoint. Often times these plantings are used in strips or transition zones adjacent to food plots for deer. The step down effect from timber to grassy seed producing plants to lower growing green groceries creates diversity and makes for awesome wildlife habitat including a lot of small mammals, song birds, and insects. BioLogic’s WhistleBack is a warm season blend of sorghum, millets, and sunflowers. This mix is designed to produce massive amounts of seed, and at the same time offer cover for many species of upland birds. This blend contains varieties that all grow and mature at different heights, offering food to birds as small as quail and doves on up to pheasants or turkeys.

When to Plant WhistleBack

Ideally plant late spring and early summer. The plants in WhistleBack are designed to grow and mature by the end of the summer. The seeds will shatter and naturally distribute on the ground, being consumed by birds in the fall and winter.

How to Plant WhistleBack

Sorghums, millets, and sunflowers all require the same basic planting depth and ground preparation should be as follows. No-till drills work great for these seeds, and most drills have a setting for planting all of these seed producing plants. If using traditional planting methods, I would suggest spraying the area to be planted a week to ten days ahead of planting with a non-selective herbicide, such as glyphosate, to kill all existing vegetation. Ground to be planted can then be disked or tilled and then cultipacked or rolled to create a firm seed bed. Seed can then be broadcast and dragged in with a chain harrow or cultipacked again. Ideal planting depth is about 1 inch. Obviously, seed left on the surface of the soil is easy picking for all types of birds and insects.

Turkey Gold Chufa

Another very popular planting for turkey and waterfowl is chufa. BioLogic Turkey Gold Chufa is without a doubt the most attractive planting for turkeys. Chufa needs to be planted in the late spring/early summer when there is at least 90+ days of growing season left before any threat of frost would arrive. This gives the chufa time to establish, build a root structure and begin to develop the tubers that turkey are so crazy about. Chufa is also pretty easy to manage weeds in since it is in the sedge family of plants. This allows you to use a grass specific herbicide to kill any invasive grasses or a broadleaf herbicide such as 2,4D. As the chufa matures in the early fall it can begin to provide food all the way into the next spring and ideally keeping your turkeys at home right up till the season.

When to Plant Chufa

Planting times for BioLogic Chufa are late April to early June for the South, early May to early June for the North.

How to Plant Chufa

Chufa should be planted at 1.5-2 inches soil depth. Planters and no-till drills are ideal for planting if available. Chufa can also be broadcast planted into a well-prepared seed bed. Chufa seed should be covered to the suggested depth by using a drag harrow or by lightly disking in. Ideally the field can also then be cultipacked or rolled for increased seedling survival.

The best recurve bows can usually cost a fortune. In general, more expensive recurve bows tend to offer an advantage over less expensive counterparts. Especially when competing at a professional level. So, it makes sense if you are an advanced archer or an athlete looking for the most expensive recurve bow in the world.

There are quite a few really pricey bows out there. We are not talking about specialty bows but rather the most expensive recurve bow available to anyone.

The most expensive publicly available recurve bow is the Sanlida Archery Olympic Recurve Bow. This is a common bow used by Olympic athletes and offers one of the most accurate shots in the sport.

We review the Sanlida Archery Miracle Olympic Recurve Bow going over what makes it so special (and expensive).

Sanlida Archery Olympic ILF Recurve Bow Review

If you want to compete at the highest level of target shooting, let’s say the Olympics, Sanlida Archery Olympic ILF Recurve Bow is a deservingly good choice. But, you may ask, “why this recurve bow?” First, this recurve bow is designed by Sanlida Archery, a reputable brand known for making archery equipment that offers incredible performance at a great value. Only a few archery brands do it better than Sanlida Archery.

Second, it comes with a full kit. The recurve bow includes everything you need for your target shooting. The interesting thing is it’s a ready-to-shoot bow, meaning that you don’t have to set it all up from scratch. You could adjust it to suit your preference if need be. The bow comes in four separate versions – 66″, 68″, and 70″, with varying tension levels. The item’s weight is 1300g (about 48 lbs), which is quite heavy. The weight is okay since the bow is tailored towards advanced archers and competitive athletes.

Another good reason is the construction. Each accessory is designed with high-quality material, and the bow itself is CNC machined 6061-T6 aluminum to enhance its strength. The limbs are made of premium-quality carbon and foam materials, while the riser is metal to add to the overall strength of the bow.

Table could not be displayed.

Pros

• Ultimate Performance – the ready-to-shoot bow is designed to offer the best performance, thanks to the included accessories and construction. Archers can attain advanced level shooting with high precision using this equipment and boost their chances of success in competitions.

• Great Design – with aluminum and carbon the main materials for the parts, you should expect the Sanlida Archery Olympic ILF Recurve Bow to last long enough. It’s strong and has an adjustable wooden grip, with a strong ILF recurve riser and limbs capable of seeing you through any target shooting competition.

• Powerful – shooting precision is essential in archery. This recurve bow helps you to achieve that. Typically, a heavy bow can hinder shooting efficiency, but not the Sanlida. Despite its 2.8 lbs weight, the bow feels light and powerful simultaneously when holding it. This gives you the confidence to shoot.

• Excellent Customer Support – if there’s one thing you should commend Sanlida for, it’s their customer service. The manufacturer ensures that customers are utterly satisfied with their products. The customer service is ultra-responsive and ever-ready to attend to your complaints.

• Good Value for Money – although the price is over $900, the bow still comes at an unbeatable value compared to its rivals. When you consider that it comes with all the accessories needed in the kit, you will be excited to cough out such an amount for the recurve bow. It comes at one of the lowest costs around.

Cons

• Expensive – this isn’t a con per se, considering that we are reviewing an expensive recurve bow. However, some archers with a limited budget may want to reconsider purchasing the bow.

Structure of the Bow – Riser, Limbs, and String

The ILF riser and limbs are solidly made, while the string is too robust to break. The beautiful anodizing ILF riser is aluminum, making it difficult to break easily even when used intensively. The riser comprises an adjustable wooden grip with bolt systems, sight, and stabilizers that are all durable. Overall, the bow doesn’t feel flimsy.

The lower and upper limbs are made of high-quality advanced carbon and foam materials that flex well. Thanks to these materials, the recurve limbs deliver a greater amount of kinetic energy more efficiently when the bowstring is released. This boosts the speed of the shot. The bowstring in the lowest version is 66”, which is normal for an archery athlete.

The bow’s string is also sturdy and holds power excellently. In addition, it stretches pretty well, which helps to exert more force on the shot for better output. You can’t fault this recurve bow.

Is an Expensive Recurve Bow Worth the Price?

The price of the Sanlida Archery Olympic Recurve Bow is fair, considering that the bow is for advanced target shooting. Beginners may question the price’s outrageousness, but it’s not typically for simple target shooting or practice. There are other bows available for such activities, and they come at a more affordable price than the Sanlida Archery Olympic ILF Recurve Bow.

The recurve bow’s advanced features make it ideal for Olympians. It can enhance the shooter’s precision, thanks to the sight and stabilizers. The wooden grip is also fully adjustable to match the riser, which improves shooting precision and balance. It gives the ultimate performance at an incredible value.

Apart from athletes, archers who need a bow with advanced features for the fun of shooting can also purchase this bow. The bow’s weight can be a hindrance if you aren’t a fit person. But, with all things being equal, you should enjoy recording those great shots with the bow. This bow is worth the price, and we recommend it.

The Sanlida Archery Olympic ILF Recurve Bow includes the following accessories;

• Bow
• Instruction manual
• Sight
• Advanced string
• Weight
• Sight pin damper
• Arrow rest
• Carbon stabilizer long rod
• Riser
• Limbs damper
• Stabilizer and riser damper
• Clicker
• Cushion plunger
• Limbs.

Final Thoughts

With Salinda Archery Olympic ILF Recurve Bow, shooting targets has never been easier. It possesses the capabilities to make you a champion in any target shooting competition. Although it doesn’t come cheap, it’s one of the most accurate even when compared to others within its range.

This Sanlida recurve bow is the most expensive recurve bow in the world but that’s what Olympic accuracy takes. With all the accessories included, you don’t need to make extra purchases. You can kickstart your journey to being a champion with this powerful bow.

In times past, hunters found a hunting companion dog invaluable. The most popular small hunting dog breeds include the Beagle, French Brittany, American Water Spaniel, Brittany Spaniel, and Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever. Not only did a hunting companion dog help to flush the game out of bushes, shrubs, trees, or even water, but the hunting companion dog would also retrieve much of the game for the hunter. In some cases, hunting companion dogs would assist in finding a felled game that had somehow gotten out of sight of the hunter. Prior to the hunt, these same dogs would help to track potential games.

I myself have witnessed hunting dogs in action and it is a pretty amazing sight. Hunting companion dogs make the activity a little more exciting, especially when they “tree” or “point” out a potential game. I listed 8 of the most common small hunting dog breeds including the facts about them below.

What are eight hunting dogs that are smaller in size?

There are eight hunting breeds that are considered small dog breeds. They include:

• the Beagle
• the French Brittany
• the American Water Spaniel
• the Brittany Spaniel
• the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever
• the Small Munsterlander
• the Cocker Spaniel
• the Boykin Spaniel

The Cocker Spaniel

Named after the bird that the breed was utilized most to hunt, the Cocker Spaniel is one of the best hunting dogs for many reasons.

Although the Cocker Spaniel is a small dog, they truly shine when they perceive prey is in the thickest of cover. They pounce with all the bravery their tiny bodies can contain, and they would flush out a game with great enthusiasm. They are great bird hunting dogs, also called a gun dog. When trained properly, a Cocker Spaniel can be a versatile hunting dog.

The Cocker Spaniel was chiefly utilized to hunt the woodcock. The Cocker Spaniel is a very energetic dog that loves to work. Plus, he’ll work all day if you provide him with the opportunity.

There are two variations of Cocker Spaniel—the English and the American. One can only tell a slight difference in the head shape of the Cocker Spaniel. However, American Cocker Spaniels tend to be friendlier than their English counterparts.

The Cocker Spaniel is considered one of the smallest hunting dog breeds today, but, typically, they are house pets rather than hunting companions. This breed is typically between 13.5 to 15.5 inches (this includes averages for both males and females; the male Cocker Spaniel will measure on the larger end of those numbers). The Cocker Spaniel will usually weigh between twenty to thirty pounds.

The American Water Spaniel

You might recognize the American Water Spaniel due to its curly hair. Aside from that, this dog breed is also known for its ability to flush game out of water. They are described as “flusher dogs” but they also retrieve fallen games, as such, they tend to work closely with their hunter handler.

The American Water Spaniel is considered quite versatile, but the breed is highly inclined to retrieve. Although athletic as well as enthusiastic, the American Water Spaniel can be somewhat stubborn as well as shy around new people.

I you are looking for a canine generally able to hunt, flush out, and retrieve waterfowls, The American Water Spaniel is a good candidate. They also have a highly dense and waterproof coat that makes them perfect for such work.

The American Water Spaniel is one of the most intelligent dog breeds I have encountered, that is full of energy as well as a tad bit of stubbornness. It is important to keep the breed active in order for the dog to be happy.

It is also important to begin training the American Water Spaniel as early as possible. Overall, the breed is obedient and friendly when trained properly.

The American Water Spaniel male is between thirty and forty-five pounds at adulthood; the female is much smaller, weighing twenty-five to forty pounds when fully grown. This breed typically stands between fifteen and eighteen inches at adulthood.

The Beagle

The Beagle is one of the most popular small hunting dog breeds—or even one of the most popular dog breeds, period. They are hounds at heart, so they love tracking scents and they enjoy flushing out prey. The Beagle is a highly diverse hunting dog as they are originally bred for hunting smaller game such as rabbits and foxes, but I’m quite impressed that they are also useful for hunting large games such as deers.

Another reason why the Beagle is highly popular is because of its happy-go-lucky attitude. I love how these pups are both fun and smart. They can be taught to retrieve even though it is not their chief inclination.

Did you know that the Beagle was first used to hunt rabbits, and the style of hunting used for this purpose was called “beagling”? They work well in pairs, and typically, they flush prey out of thick underbrush.

The Beagle is a gentle and friendly breed that loves to interact with its hunter handlers. Training the Beagle should begin when they are fairly young. As a hound breed, they can be stubborn, but consistent training should overcome any obstinate behavior on the part of the dog. Beagles are one of the small hunting dog breeds that love to interact with children, too.

Like other hunting dogs, the Beagle needs a certain amount of activity each day in order to remain happy and healthy.

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever

Known as the “Toller”, the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is one of the smallest retrieving dogs. Some will relate that the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever has a high-pitched “scream” that sets them apart from other hunting dogs.

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is especially attuned to hunting in cold weather, and their coat protects them from the harsh, cold water. These dogs are chiefly retrievers but they are good flushers too, and were named for the way in which they would assist their human hunting handler in “tolling” ducks.

These brilliant water dogs are best utilized for hunting waterfowl. However, they often worked to lure ducks in range of their human handler so that the hunter could get an accurate shot on the prey. They are especially useful for this job because they are very alert and an extremely intelligent breed. They are also highly patient. Like other retrieving dogs, they depend greatly on signals from their human hunting handlers.

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is quite active, and, if human handlers do not offer the Toller the best balance of activity, the Toller can become destructive. Remember, as natural hunters and retrievers, the Toller is happiest when he is busy—or very tired from a busy day.

Just a little reminder: the Toller can be less submissive than other retrieving dogs. They tend to be less friendly with strangers.

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever stands anywhere from seventeen to twenty-one inches in height. Typically, regardless of whether the dog is male or female, the Duck Toller will weigh between thirty-five and fifty pounds.

The Boykin Spaniel

Although considered a small hunting dog, the Boykin Spaniel is in fact larger than the breeds on this list. Having a dense coat that protects their body as they swim in the water of varying temperatures make them resilient hunting canines.

The Boykin Spaniel is a great flusher of game. However, they are known for taking their sweet time before they actually flush the game out. They do not need their human handler to offer commands before taking action. They are extremely versatile dogs, being highly adept retrieving dogs as well.

Hunting both pheasants and quail is what the Boykin Spaniel is exceptional at, but they are also used for flushing out and retrieving waterfowl. I love how this breed utilizes both scent and sight for the tracking game.

Not only is the Boykin Spaniel a great hunting companion, but the breed is a wonderful family pet as well. The Boykin tends to get along well with all people, even strangers. The breed is very smart and they simply enjoy hard work. They are also great companion dogs outside the hunting field.

The Boykin Spaniel tends to be between fifteen inches to eighteen inches in height at adulthood, and weighs an average of twenty-five to forty pounds at adulthood.

The Small Munsterlander

The Small Musterlander is a dog of German origin; it is not related to the Munsterlander other than they come from the same area in Europe. This breed is known for its ability to do just about anything. You’d be glad to know that they can be easily trained to flush out, retrieve, and point prey. This is thanks to their natural attentiveness and being extremely intelligent.

These dogs are so versatile that they are equally adept hunters on both lands and in the water. The Small Munsterlander hunts just about any type of fowl a hunter can imagine. They are adept at hunting waterfowl, ducks, and the like, but they are also great for hunting upland birds.

The Small Munsterlander is typically twenty to twenty-one inches in height and normally weighs between forty and sixty pounds. I suggest doing a great deal of DIY dog grooming to maintain these dogs.

The French Brittany

The French Brittany is very similar to the American Brittany spaniel in its hunting style. They are known for their scent tracking abilities as well as their ability to point both upland birds and waterfowl.

Not only is the French Brittany versatile hunters—they are highly intelligent and friendly too. This makes them great family dogs as well as great competition hunting companions.

The French Brittany typically stands between seventeen and twenty inches and they weigh between thirty and forty-five pounds.

The Brittany

The Brittany Spaniel is a gundog whose initial purpose was as a hunting companion. Known for its penchant for pointing as well as being a flushing dog, this breed is versatile, strong, and highly intelligent.

I find it wonderful how they can be both great family dogs and highly adaptable hunting companions at the same time. Brittanies love to hunt a wide variety of games [1].

The American Brittany Spaniel is usually just over seventeen inches to just over twenty inches in height, and the average weight of a Brittany Spaniel is between thirty to forty pounds at adulthood.

FAQs

1. What is the smallest breed of dog used for hunting?

The Cocker Spaniel is one of the smallest breeds of dogs that were once utilized as hunting companions. However, the Cocker Spaniel of today is more of a companion animal than a hunting companion.

2. What is the smallest upland bird dog?

The Small Munsterlander, a German dog with a tendency to work as a pointer, is the smallest upland bird dog.

3. What is the easiest breed of hunting dog to train?

Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers tend to be the easiest to train. Both breeds look to their handlers for directions and they work well with their human hunting companions.

4. What is a good hunting dog?

A good hunting dog is one that listens to commands, hunts enthusiastically, and is energetic on the hunting field.

With the popularity these days of cartridges for long-range this and long-range that, it’s surprising the .300 Blackout has become one of the more popular rifle cartridges since its commercial introduction in 2010. Timing may have played a hand in the Blackout’s acceptance, as it was introduced by Advanced Armament Corporation (AAC) and its sister company, Remington, when the trend of tactical shooting started to build. The Blackout, though, has many positive attributes. For one, the short cartridge fits in any gun design that accepts the .223/5.56, from single-shot handguns and compact bolt-action rifles to autoloading carbines, where it has been most successful. The Blackout shoots the complete range of .30-caliber bullets – from light bullets acceptably fast for hunting to 200-grain and heavier bullets plodding along at subsonic velocities. The Blackout’s story goes back much farther than 2010. AAC had been working on a military cartridge when it was bought by Remington, backed by the Freedom Group, in 2009. The following year AAC and Remington introduced the .300 Blackout. That year I toured the Remington ammunition plant in Lonake, Arkansas, mainly to observe the production of shotshells. At the nearby Remington shooting range, a couple of Remington engineers uncased an AR-15 and showed around the cartridge for which it was chambered. “It’s the .300 Blackout,” they said. “It’s the .300 Whisper,” I replied.

The Blackout is indeed the .300 Whisper designed by J.D. Jones in 1992 by necking up .221 Fireball cases to accept .30-caliber bullets. The only difference between the Blackout and Whisper is Blackout chambers have a slightly longer leade. Jones states on his website (sskindustries.com) that the “Whisper series of cartridges was developed as specific military, police, competition and recreational cartridges . . . ” The website also states, “A Whisper cartridge must be capable of sub-sonic extreme accuracy with very heavy bullets for its caliber, i.e. 240 grains in 30, as well as moderate to high velocity while maintaining excellent accuracy with light bullets for the caliber, i.e. 125 at 2300 FPS in the 30.

“. . . the cartridge was designed as a multi-purpose cartridge from the beginning. Its design parameters, in addition to the ballistics quoted above, were that it must be capable of being used in the AR-15/M16 family of rifles, contenders and bolt action rifles as well as being easily suppressed.” Quite a number of carbine bolt actions are chambered in Blackout. Most have 16-inch barrels. They range from Kimber’s Adirondack that weighs 4 pounds, 13 ounces, to the Ruger American Ranch rifle and Remington Model 700 Tactical. Pretty much every AR-type rifle chambered in .223/5.56 NATO is also chambered in Blackout. A different barrel is the only requirement to change from .223 to Blackout, as both cartridges operate at the same 55,000 psi and use the same magazine and bolt face. A SIG Sauer MCX VIRTUS Patrol was used to shoot the loads in the accompanying load table. The carbine is chambered in 5.56 or .300 Blackout. Only a barrel swap was required to change between the cartridges. Turning out two Torx screws loosened the barrel clamps, and the 5.56 barrel originally on the carbine pulled free of the upper receiver. After inserting a Blackout barrel and tightening the barrel clamp screws, I was in business shooting the Blackout.

I first shot SIG Sauer factory ammunition through the VIRTUS. Ammunition options are nearly unending, with Blackout ammunition also available from Barnes, Federal, Fiocchi, Gorilla, Hornady, HSM, Magtech, Nosler, Noveske, Remington, Silver State Armory, Streak, Underwood and Winchester. I’m sure there are others. It seems someone is always comparing the Blackout to the .223/5.56, 7.62×39 and .30-30. So, ballistics-wise, let’s measure the Blackout against these three cartridges. The .30-30 beats the Blackout every which way. The .30-30 shoots Sierra 150-grain bullets at 2,367 fps with 36.3 grains of CFE 223, and the Speer 125-grain TNT with 33.0 grains of H-335 at 2,587 fps when fired from the 20-inch barrel of my Winchester Model 94. Those velocities are an additional 300 fps faster than Blackout velocities with the same bullet weights. The Blackout is America’s version of the 7.62×39 Russian, and the tactical crowd calls the Blackout the 7.62×35. I have been able to shoot Sierra 110-grain bullets at 2,511 fps loaded with Reloder 7, and Speer 125-grain bullets at 2,500 fps with CFE BLK powder from the 18.5-inch barrel of my CZ 527 Carbine 7.62×39. Tulammo is the fastest factory ammunition I have shot through a CZ, with its 124-grain FMJ bullets registering 2,405 fps at the muzzle. Advantage for the Russian round is 200 plus fps. Ballistic charts show there is not much difference between the energy carried by 125-grain bullets fired at 2,235 fps from the Blackout and the .223 shooting 69-grain bullets at 3,000 fps, and 80-grain bullets existing the muzzle at 2,750 fps. The .22-caliber bullets carry about 50 foot-pounds of additional energy than the .30-caliber bullet by the time the three bullets have reached 100 yards. The .22-caliber bullets hang on to that energy advantage at 200 yards and enlarge the difference as distance increases. Both bullets fired from a .223 drop half the distance of the .30-caliber bullets at distances from 150 to 400 yards when all three bullets are zeroed at 100 yards. The Blackout launching 165-grain bullets at 1,850 fps does not improve on those figures. A 220-grain bullet fired at 1,000 fps from the Blackout carries only about half the energy as 165-grain bullets. The heavy bullet drops like a hand-thrown brick.

To go out on a half-sawn limb, the Blackout was never designed to improve on the .223’s ballistics. The Blackout’s value is that it provides acceptable velocity from a 16-inch barrel with bullets that carry some persuasive weight. Bullets for the Blackout run the gamut of lightweight projectiles traveling somewhat over 2,000 fps to heavy bullets plodding along at 1,000 fps. To determine how well light and heavy bullets expanded, I shot all the bullets listed in the accompanying load table into stacks of dry paper placed 35 yards from the muzzle of the SIG carbine. SIG-loaded Sierra 125-grain MatchKing bullets hit the paper at 2,080 fps, and handloaded Berger 110- and 125-grain bullets impacted at about 2,000 fps. All three bullets fragmented.

SIG 120-grain HT Solid Copper loads hit the paper at 2,150 fps. The hollowpoint peeled back into four petals to the bullet’s solid shank. The bullets expanded to nearly twice their original diameter, just like SIG advertises. The HT would make a great hunting bullet. I doubted Speer 165-grain bullets would expand with a slow impact velocity of a 1,700 fps. But the jacket of the bullets ripped apart down to the base and lost their lead core. Berger 210-grain bullets were marginally stable when fired at 1,100 fps from the SIG’s barrel with its 1:6 rifling twist. A few of the bullets hit sideways on targets at 100 yards. The Bergers hit the paper going 960 fps. Recovered bullets looked like they had immediately turned sideways when they hit. The bullets bent in half and fairly well lost their lead core. SIG-loaded Sierra 220-grain MatchKing bullets plowed into the paper at just under 1,000 fps. Their hollow points opened up, and the bullets expanded halfway down their length, doubling their initial width. The MatchKings would make a great bullet for shooting hogs. Lehigh Defense has a great selection of bullets for all uses of the Blackout. Those bullets range from a 78-grain Close Quarters bullet, with an aluminum core and prestressed jacket designed to violently expand and limit penetration no more than 18 inches, to Maximum Expansion 194-grain Subsonic Bullets. Lehigh states Maximum Expansion bullets do not expand in dry mediums like wood or drywall. Their hollowpoints are designed to expand at 750 to 1,200 fps upon contact with a fluid-based medium through hydraulic energy. I shot the bullets into the paper at 1,400 fps. The .60-inch-deep hollowpoints peeled back into four petals down to their solid copper base. It seemed only a sprinkle of powder balanced my scale when weighing charges to handload the Blackout. Powder weights for 210-grain bullets looked especially light; how could those small amounts of powder even push those big bullets out the bore?

Powders for the Blackout are relatively fast burning, such as Accurate No. 11FS, 1680, 5744, LT-30 and No. 9, Alliant Reloder 7 and 10X, IMR-4227 and 4198, Hodgdon Lil’Gun and CFE BLK. CFE BLK worked well with the 110- to 210-grain bullets I used for the Blackout. CFE BLK traded back and forth with Lil’Gun for highest velocities. Accurate No. 11FS provided good accuracy with Berger 125-grain FB Target bullets with a velocity 200 fps faster than Lil’Gun. Vertical spread of impact points of the different bullet weights was tremendous. With the SIG carbine sighted in to shoot 125-grain bullets on aim at 100 yards, Berger 110-grain bullets hit way over point of aim at 100 yards. In contrast, 210- and 220-grain bullets at subsonic velocities hit about 20 inches lower than the 125s.

Across the board, the Blackout produced low extreme velocity spreads that most likely resulted from powder charges held tightly in place by bullets in the Blackout case to promote a uniform powder burn. Over nine shots, SIG ammunition loaded with 120-grain HT bullets had an extreme velocity spread of 27 fps, Sierra 125-grain bullets provided a spread of 24 fps and Sierra 220-grain MatchKing bullets had an extreme spread of 16 fps. Handloads also produced even velocities. Berger 125-grain bullets shot with three different powders had an average extreme spread of 17 fps, Speer 165-grain bullets had a 29-fps velocity spread for three powders, and Lehigh Defense 194-grain bullets averaged 22 fps using three powders. There is some concern that the small powder charges the Blackout burns may fail to generate enough gas to cycle an autoloader’s action. The SIG MCX VIRTUS Patrol is equipped with a two-position gas valve to meter the correct amount of gas used to cycle the rifle. Adjustments are made by pushing down a lever on either side of the valve through “windows” in the sides of the handguard. The left-side lever on the handguard has a “minus” and the right side a “plus” mark. SIG suggests setting the valve on “minus” for loads that generate supersonic velocities and “plus” for subsonic loads. I left the valve on the latter setting for all shooting. Every one of several hundred loads cycled without a hitch.

Handloading the Blackout was straightforward. A few loads resulted in compressed powder charges when seating bullets. The cartridges remained the same length after sitting for a day. Some handloaders have reported the Blackout’s rather thin case necks fail to adequately hold bullets in place. A combination of compressed powder and the thrust of an autoloader’s bolt slamming closed can cause bullets to partially slide out of cases. Solutions include using a slightly narrower expander button in the sizing die, or loading bullets with a crimping cannelure to crimp case mouths. Most .30-caliber bullets, though, do not have a crimping groove. Those with a crimping groove most likely have it in the wrong place, unless they are specifically intended for the Blackout. Redding National Match dies come with a taper crimp die that solves all such problems. If I can theorize why the .300 Blackout has become so popular, it is because it’s a great informal target and everyday-shooting cartridge. Cartridges, handloads at least, are relatively inexpensive, and recoil is negligible. I shot the SIG carbine at targets, and my son shot it at ground squirrels. The back-and-forth slam of the bolt created more recoil than the actual firing of cartridges. From there the Blackout readily adapts to short-range hunting with an assortment of bullet weights and styles.