Some things in life are so obvious they get overlooked for a long time. That’s the case—no pun intended—with the 7.62×40 WT cartridge, a .223 Rem. case necked up to .308 Win. Original work on this cartridge was done by Kurt Buchert, who called it the 7.62×40 USA. With Buchert’s blessing, Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat took the concept and made it a functional reality.

Why? We’ll get to that. Folks have been trying to put bigger bullets and more power into an AR-15 for a long time for both military and sporting purposes. Examples include the 6.5 Grendel, the 6.8 Rem. SPC and the big, shoulder-smacking .450 Bushmaster. None have seen big-time success, but all have cult-like followings among users who believe they’re the answer to all things ballistic. Admittedly, I dote over the .30 Rem. AR, which I find to be the most powerful and ballistically balanced cartridge you can fire from an AR-platform rifle.

One problem is all these cartridges require not just a new barrel, but also a new bolt, possibly a new buffer and buffer spring, a new magazine and in some cases, even a new upper receiver. This makes conversions more costly and less appealing. With the 7.62×40 WT, all you need is a new barrel and a Wilson Combat-modified Lancer L5 AWM 5.56 magazine (though some unmodified AR-15 magazines will work). Ballistically, it converts your AR-15 into a flatter-shooting .30-30 Win., which sort of answers the “why” question.

Wilson began developing the 7.62×40 WT after studying the ballistics offered by the .300 AAC Blackout. He wanted a cartridge that would give optimum supersonic performance with lighter .30-caliber bullets, instead of the 220-grain projectiles for which the .300 AAC Blackout was designed.

“After experimenting with the .300 Blackout, I concluded the cartridge case really needed to be 39 to 40 mm long to work properly with common 110- to 125-grain, .30-caliber bullets,” said Wilson. (The .300 AAC Blackout case is about 35 mm long.) “Don’t take me wrong, I’m not anti-.300 Blackout. I just firmly believe it’s a subsonic-only cartridge.”

Wilson established his reputation by building superb custom 1911 pistols, but Wilson Combat also makes wonderful ARs. He is not just a competitive shooter with a tactical mindset; he is also an avid hunter. At present, Wilson may be doing more to help solve the feral hog problem in Texas using an AR-15 than anyone.

He discovered 125-grain Sierra Pro-Hunter and 125-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets actually performed more like controlled-expansion bullets at 7.62×40 WT impact velocities. After guiding hunters to more than 60 hog kills, Wilson believes, “With the same shot placement, the 7.62×40 WT works about like a 6.8 SPC and runs cleaner than it or the .30 Rem. AR when suppressed.”

Based on 7.62×40 WT testing I conducted using Wilson Combat ammunition, 125-grain bullets leave a 16-inch barrel at around 2,400 fps and a 20-inch barrel at 2,500 fps. This equates to velocities high enough to generate bullet expansion at 250 yards. If zeroed 1.5 inches high at 100 yards, drop at 250 yards is less than 10 inches. These are great short-range ballistics—perfect for hunting or a utility/survival rifle. With the wide variety of available .30-caliber bullet options, moderate-range tactical applications are virtually endless.

Granted, the ballistics are similar to the Soviet 7.62×39 mm cartridge used in AK-platform rifles. However, converting an AR to the Russian cartridge requires a new barrel, bolt and magazine. What’s more, that particular cartridge has a dismal history of poor reliability in AR-platform rifles. Additionally, since factory 7.62×39 mm ammunition is loaded with bullets having diameters between 0.308 inch and the original spec of 0.311 inch, accuracy can be less than inspiring.

Wilson Combat offers complete rifles, upper receivers, barrels and five different factory loads for the 7.62×40 WT, but it’s unclear whether others will follow suit. Given the usefulness of this cartridge, it wouldn’t surprise me if more AR manufacturers got on board, and Wilson expects no royalties to follow his lead.

Ammunition availability is the risk with any new cartridge—demand drives the train. The good news is, unlike some other new cartridges, 7.62×40 WT brass is easily made from .223 Rem. cases.

The 7.62×40 WT has become Wilson’s go-to cartridge at the ranch, but of course some folks will never get the concept. Despite what one unenthusiastic blogger has said about the round, an AR chambered for the 7.62×40 WT is lighter, more powerful, flatter shooting, harder hitting and infinitely more versatile than a .30-30 Win. lever action, whether you are hunting or fighting. It’s also a great youth deer rifle or police patrol rifle.

There’s no doubt the AR is America’s favorite rifle. Wilson Combat just made it more useful and, dare I say, better.

Undeniably one of the hottest topics in archery today is the subject of high FOC. Some see this is just another trend, while others firmly state that this information is long overdue, and it will never go away. Trendy or not, there is no denying that FOC has its place and is important for an archer to have at least a basic understanding of how it effects arrow flight, accuracy, and penetration. I have been a long standing member of the high FOC Club, but just like anything else, you can have too much of a good thing.

Let’s look at some of the pros and cons of a high FOC setup.

WHAT IS FOC?

Lets start with a quick review of what FOC is. It stands for “Front of Center”. It is a percentage equation of your hunting arrows total weight that is located at the front half of the arrow. It is important to note that this calculation is with your broadhead on the arrow. The more weight you have at the front of your arrow, the more forward your balance point will be. Below is a great video explaining some easy steps and instructions to calculate your FOC.

PROS OF HIGH FOC

There are many opinions on the actual percentage consideration for high FOC with above 15% generally being considered high. With Doctor Ashby’s conclusion that there is a substantial penetration gain with arrows having 18% FOC or higher, you don’t have to look far for hunters that are promoting over 20% and even into the 30+ percent FOC range!

Lets look at some of the pros of high FOC. The biggest benefit to me in shooting high FOC is PENETRATION. There is no denying that increasing your front of center gives you more weight, more momentum, and more “pulling power”. Literally, high FOC helps “pull” your arrow through your intended target. I really think that pulling power should be considered a factor in a new hunting arrow formula we could call pass through potential. Where FOC X Draw Weight was divided by Pulling Power (P2) to get a number we could associate with a high probability for a pass through…we will work on that. 😊 Anyway, you get the idea. Penetration favors high FOC.

Another benefit towards penetration is to consider that with most high FOC arrow setups, you will be using a stiffer spine arrow. This causes less flex in your arrow as it enters your target allowing for more penetration, considering that the more flex you have, the more drag you create and that will impede penetration. High FOC can also help QUIET your bow, and some will say it improves your ACCURACY. For me, I do not feel accuracy really gets a big boost from increasing your front of center, but you will certainly give your setup a boost in its performance, so inherently your accuracy could benefit.

One great side effect of spending time playing with your FOC is that you are spending more time with your bow, allowing for improvements to occur in several areas of tuning your entire setup.

CONS OF HIGH FOC

With every good thing, there is also a point of simply over doing it. Generally when I am on the over doing it subject, I am referring to ice cream, but FOC is definitely in the same category, as it is all good until you have too much. No mater what you do in archery you cannot escape the laws of physics, with the law of gravity being the big factor here. At some point, too much FOC is no longer an asset. Remember the lawn dart game? Think of continuously adding weight to the end of your lawn dart. Eventually you wont be able to toss it close to hoop, let alone in it. Even though the dart will make a bigger divot in the dirt with each weight increase, if you cant reach your target what good is it?

When you get your FOC too high you are going to be sacrificing something. That something is going to be TRAJECTORY and SPEED. To be clear, as you move up in FOC, you are going to loose a little of both of those things no matter what, but with the right balance the good exceeds the bad. Too high of an FOC and you could find that a weary whitetail at a long distance can easily jump the string because your arrow is slower, and dropping more rapidly.

Another common issue with high FOC is using the WRONG SPINE arrow. High FOC will naturally weaken the spine of your arrow, and thus it could take your arrow longer to recover off the riser causing potential accuracy problems. Since adding more weight to the front of your arrow weakens the spine, it is very important to make sure you have the right spined arrow out of the gate. Starting your FOC process with an under spined arrow could even be dangerous, so consult your bow and arrow manufacturer before you jump into high FOC.

The last con I would like to mention is COST. If you get serious about high FOC, you may also get serious about spending money. Stiff spine, specialty arrows, weighted inserts, and heavy weight broadheads all come with an increased price tag. It doesn’t have to cost a fortune to shoot high FOC, but you can get caught up in it all very easily and quickly wind up with a single arrow that is over $50.00.

I am a big fan of high FOC, but as you have read it is important find a happy medium. You must factor in your average shot distance and your target species into the equation when you decide to go heavy up front. Also, be sure and be aware of your arrow spine when moving towards high FOC. You do not want to have an important factor like accuracy suffer because you are under or over spined. Thankfully, this process is not difficult and can be fun getting everything tuned just right to suit your needs.

Thank you for reading, and good luck in the field!

Chris Creed, Afflictor Broadheads

The best fixed blade broadheads are ones that have razor-sharp blades, fly like field points from your bow, and inflict maximum damage. We all want that short blood trail to the buck of our dreams.

In this article, we look at what we feel are the 9 best fixed-blade broadheads on the market in 2024. These are broadheads we have tried and tested and wouldn’t hesitate to screw onto the ends of our own arrows this fall.

I’ll give my usual caveat here: while we have our favorite broadheads for various game and situations, there is truly no one ‘best’ option. Also keep in mind that broadheads for crossbows often have different requirements, so we have a whole other article for those.

Which broadhead works best for you will depend on a variety of factors, including your bow setup, arrow selection, ability to tune your bow, and a little bit of personal preference.

Our Top Picks

Everything We Recommend

What are Fixed Blade Broadheads?

As the name implies, fixed blade broadheads have no moving parts. The blades are fixed in position. In some cases, fixed blade broadheads are machined from one piece of steel, so the blades and the ferrule are formed together. That is the case with the G5 Montec broadheads featured above.

Most fixed blade broadheads, however, have replaceable blades that attache to the ferrule in various ways. This is a great feature, because if a blade or blades become dull or damaged, you can simply replace the blade without having to try to sharpen it or replace the entire broadhead.

Pros and Cons of Fixed Blade Broadheads

Features to Consider

Broadhead Weight

Most fixed blade broadheads are going to come in either 85, 100, 125 or 150 grains, with 100 grains being the most common. Any of these will work effectively. It’s really a matter of your overall arrow or bolt setup as to which weight you choose. If you’re just going with a standard mid-weight arrow setup, then I’d recommend sticking with a 100 grain broadhead because they are readily available and will get the job done. However, if you’re like me and prefer a heavier arrow setup with a little higher FOC, then a 125 or even a 150 grain may be your best bet.

The past two seasons I’ve shot 150 grain broadheads on my compound bow setup, and I’ve been extremely happy with the results. This year I may go with the 125 grain Slick Trick Magnum broadheads, which should still work fine. I can always add another 25 grain weight to my insert if I wanted to keep the overall weight the same, but I really don’t think that will be necessary.

Blade Thickness

Blade thickness is an important factor when choosing the best fixed blade broadhead for your setup. It’s going to determine how well your broadheads hold up when they make contact with an animal — especially if they come in contact with any bone. Blade thickness is especially important if you’re shooting a one-piece broadhead with blades that will require sharpening.

If you’re shooting a broadhead with replaceable blades, blade thickness isn’t quite as critical, but you still don’t want the broadhead coming apart as it passes through the chest cavity of a mature buck.

Number of Blades

In your quest to find the best fixed blade broadhead, you may wonder if you should you shoot a two, three, or four-blade broadhead? First off, let me say that any of those three options will get the job done. Like most things in life, there’s tradeoffs to each option. A two-blade broadhead is going to have less resistance, so it will be more likely to pass thru an animal. The tradeoff to that reduced resistance and increased penetration is less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

Three and four-blade broadheads, on the other hand, should produce a larger wound channel and better blood trail. And while they will have more resistance than a two-blade, as long as you’re shooting a heavy enough arrow setup, penetration shouldn’t be an issue.

Cutting Diameter

Cutting diameter is another important factor when choosing a fixed blade broadhead. Similar to the discussion above about the number of blades a broadhead should have, cutting diameter will impact penetration and the subsequent blood trail. A smaller cutting diameter will have less resistance and will be more likely to pass through, but it will also create a smaller wound channel. That smaller hole will me less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

That leaves you having to strike a balance between getting a solid pass-thru shot and still inflicting as much damage as possible for a good, short blood trail. Other factors in that decision will be your bow setup and overall arrow setup. If you shoot a lower poundage, short draw length, or a light arrow setup, then you will want to err on the side of smaller cutting diameter to ensure a pass-thru shot.

My preference is a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2-inch cutting diameter from a fixed blade broadhead.

Replaceable Blades vs One-Piece Design

This is another personal preference decision you’ll need to make when choosing the best fixed blade broadhead for your setup. What it really boils down to is, are you comfortable sharpening your broadhead blades? If not, then you need a broadhead with replaceable blades. That way, after you’ve dulled a broadhead from practice shooting or in a hunting situation, you can simply toss the dull blades and install new, razor-sharp ones.

If you are comfortable sharpening your blades, then a one-piece design may be the way to go. A one-piece broadhead is typically going to be tougher and more durable than one with replaceable blades. There are certainly exceptions to that statement but as a rule, it’s true.

Solid vs Vented Blade Design

This is one I see debated at times, but in my mind is a non-issue. The biggest concern I’ve seen discussed with vented broadhead blades is the whistling noise they can make in flight. I’ve seen bowhunters concerned that the noise can alert deer and result in them “jumping the string.” I’ve shot plenty of vented blade broadheads and have never witnessed any issues that I felt were the result of broadhead noise.

The one valid argument for using a solid blade design over a vented blade is that the solid blade is going to be a little stronger and less likely to bend or break. The downside to a solid blade design is that it could result in increased planing in flight, which could result in erratic flight from bows that aren’t perfectly tuned.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the best fixed blade broadhead is not easy. There are tons of options on the market today, and all of them will kill a deer with proper shot placement. That’s not to say, however, that some options aren’t much better than others. To narrow down your choice, use the factors outlined above, and you should find one or more great options from our list above.

Ultimately, you won’t go wrong with any of the broadheads listed above, but hopefully this article will help you find the best fixed blade broadhead for your specific needs.

What are the requirements of a good cartridge? Being easy to use, good speed, good trajectory, etc. are common features. In these terms, people choose cartridges for themselves. People find it difficult to find what is the difference between a 17 HMR and a 17 WSM?

Both these cartridges are great to use. But you’re here to know the differences between them, and you’re about to purchase one of them. Right? Besides, your rifle will come with respect to the cartridge you choose. And you should also pick a perfect scope for 17 WSM to have a good experience.

What is the difference between a 17 HMR and a 17 WSM?

You are reading this article as you need to find what is the difference between a 17 HMR and a 17 WSM? Consumers had a great experience using both these cartridges.

But you cannot blindly select one of these. You have to filter one of them out based on some parameters. Believe it or not, the following specifications will help you to make a proper decision.

Speed:

In the case of a cartridge, speed is one of the requirements that consumers demand. If the cartridge cannot get enough velocity, then it is useless. Passionate rifle users like to have fast bullets in their rifles.

The speed of 17 HMR is greater with respect to 17 WSM. It is light in weight. As a result, it travels faster than the other. It is suitable to hunt birds or other animals at close range.If needed, you can use affordable thermal imaging scopes for WSM with its rifle.

The speed of 17 WSM is less than 17 HMR. It is heavier. So, it travels with less speed. However, it can make a hole in thick objects. Thick objects cannot be penetrated with thin bullets. So, this bullet is suitable for people who will use it to penetrate thick objects.

Cost:

Cost plays an important role while choosing cartridges. If your potential cartridge use is high, then you should go for the cheapest cartridge available.

The 17 WSM is more expensive between 17 HMR and 17 WSM. The 17HMR costs 20 cents only, whereas 17 WSM costs 30 cents. So, the cost difference is negligible for these cartridges. But you are not buying only one cartridge; you will buy hundreds or thousands of cartridges. However, this little amount can have a great effect in the long run.

The cost of the HMR might even get chipper in time. IT is completely the opposite case for the 17 WSM. 17 WSM will get out of the market sooner or later. As more and more cartridges are coming into the market, the public is losing interest in buying 17 WSM. The production rate has reduced, as well. So, the cartridge and the rifle both might get out of the market as well. As the quantity gets decreased, the seller might take advantage of it. People who have 17 WSM rifles have to buy 17 WSM cartridges, as it will not be available anymore, the seller will sell the product for a higher price.

Field Performance:

The core fact of cartridges is field performance. The choice of cartridge changes based on this parameter. Based on this parameter, other parameters are subjected to change.

Based on the distance of the target, your choice of cartridges will change. A lot of factors come along with an increase in distance.

In terms of a distant shot, time plays an important role. As time increases, the trajectory goes downward. The cartridge has to keep the trajectory for longer distances. If the trajectory decreases, the probability of the cartridge to miss the target will increase.

The wind may have other impacts as well—for example, wind deflection. When a bullet leaves the rifle, it starts flying with velocity in one direction. The wind is flying in another direction. As a result, the bullet might get deflected from the target.

The 17 WSM is the better cartridge to have a better field performance at a greater distance. Both these cartridges can work with the wind. Though, the WSM works better than the other in terms of long-distance.

17 HMR is great for a short distance. It is fun to work with. It has got a better speed than the other. It creates less noise than the 17 WSM. These are needed to hit the target at a short distance.

However, none of these cartridges should be used for self-defense, where many other cartridges are available. 17 HMR and 17 WSM both should be avoided in this term.

Availability:

Availability is a factor that many people do not consider. It creates different types of problem letters.

The 17 HMR cartridge is available. You may go to any ammunition store and find 17 HMR. The rifle of 17 HRM is also available everywhere. As the rifle is available, it is relatively easy to find separate parts if needed to fix the rifle.

The 17 WSM cartridge is not available everywhere. And it’ll be a hassle to find out either. You would find it difficult to find separate parts of the rifle if needed. The cartridge is a special kind. You can’t use this cartridge in any rifle, either. You need to have the 17 WSM rifle to use this cartridge.

In terms of availability, 17 HMR should be your choice.

Final Words

You are looking to find a cartridge that suits you. Go through the parameters given above before making your final decision. And you’ll be able to make a list of what is the difference between a 17 HMR and a 17 WSM? You should be economical while buying cartridges. So, 17 HMR is obviously a better choice for you.

If you need to hit a target at 450 meters distance under strong wind, buying 17 HMR is useless. The 17 HMR will fly up to 150-250 meters and then drop on the ground. You will need 17 WSM to do the job under such conditions. So, all these factors should be considered to get the best cartridge.

Foraging for food in the backcountry is a great way to enjoy a tasty treat on the trail. But, foraging for the wrong berries, scrubs, and leaves could result in an upset stomach, or something much worse.

That’s because not all the tasty-looking plants you see on the trail are okay to eat. Some are highly toxic and are best avoided. The key is knowing how to tell the toxic plants that look like food apart from those that are okay to eat.

If you’ve ever wondered how to identify toxic plants, we’re here to help. In this article, we’ll introduce you to 30 types of plants that look like food that you ought to avoid on your travels. That way you can avoid this list of poisonous herbs and berries and stick to eating only edible plants as you hike.

Caution! Foraging Safety

30 Toxic Plants That Look Like Food: What You Need To Know

1. Death Camas

If a name like “death camas” doesn’t tell you to stay clear of this plant, nothing will. All jokes aside, however, death camas (Zigadenus venenosus) is one of the most toxic plants in North America.

Death camas is found throughout the western and midwestern United States and it looks like a tall, grass-like plant. Below the ground, it has a sizable bulb that makes it look dangerously similar to plants like onions, garlic, leeks, chives, and scallions.

The problem is that, unlike these plants, death camas is not edible. It can cause muscle weakness, vomiting, tremors, convulsions, and, as its name suggests, death. Thankfully, poisoning among humans isn’t very common, but death camas is known to cause problems for livestock, especially sheep.

Either way, death camas is one toxic plant that you should avoid at all costs.

2. Jerusalem Cherry

Jerusalem cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) is a nightshade that’s traditionally used as an ornamental plant for Christmas. However, while it makes for a pretty decoration, the fruits and seeds of the Jerusalem cherry are highly toxic.

In fact, the poisonous fruit of the Jerusalem cherry contains solanocapsine. Unless eaten in very large quantities, solanocapsine usually isn’t deadly to humans, but it can cause gastrointestinal problems and severe vomiting. It’s also possible that these berries are poisonous to cats, but more research is needed to confirm that.

The problem is that the fruit of the Jerusalem cherry is a small, reddish-orange cherry tomato-looking fruit. This can make it difficult to identify, particularly because there are so many varieties of this plant. Therefore, it’s generally best to avoid plants that look like cherry tomatoes while foraging in the wild.

3. Doll’s Eyes

If there’s one plant that you need to avoid at all costs, it’s this one: doll’s eyes (Actaea pachypoda). A member of the buttercup family, doll’s eyes look like innocuous white flowers before they become raisin-sized white berries with a distinctive black spot.

These berries can be found throughout the deciduous woodlands of eastern North America, and they are highly toxic. The plant contains an as-of-yet unidentified toxin that affects the cardiac system. This toxin is found throughout the plant, including in the roots and berries. When ingested, this toxin effectively “sedates” the heart and can lead to immediate cardiac arrest.

Thankfully, you need to eat a fairly large amount of these berries for this to happen, which isn’t likely because the berries are so bitter. But, the doll’s eyes are best to avoid on the trail.

4. Hemlock

5. Rosary Pea

6. Giant Hogweed

7. Death Cap

8. Angel’s Trumpets

9. Tutsan

Traditionally used to ward off evil spirits, the tutsan (Hypericum androsaemum) is a perennial shrub that’s native to Eurasia. It was traditionally used as a medicinal plant for things like antidepressants.

However, despite its historic medicinal use, the entire tutsan plant, including its berries, which look similar to blueberries in some situations, are toxic. That’s because they contain hypericin, which is a commonly found compound in species of the St. John’s Wort genus (Hypericum).

It’s unclear precisely what it is about hypericin that’s toxic, but it’s believed that this compound can lead to cell death. Nevertheless, consuming tutsan berries can lead to nausea and diarrhea, so it’s perhaps not the best option for your trail snack.

10. Canada Moonseed

Canada moonseed (Menispermum canadense), or simply common moonseed, is a highly toxic plant that’s found throughout eastern North America. It is a relatively small flowering plant that forms in thickets with thick green leaves and small bunches of blueberries.

Although it might look like any other berry-bearing plant, the Canada moonseed is exceptionally toxic. It contains a plant metabolite called dauricine, which is found throughout the plant’s berries, roots, leaves, and flowers. Dauricine causes cardiac issues that can lead to cardiac arrest and death. Needless to say, don’t eat the Canada moonseed.

Interestingly enough, however, this highly toxic compound is being studied for use as a cancer treatment because there’s some hope that it can suppress the growth of cancer cells. One 2019 study found that it was fairly successful at suppressing pancreatic cancer growth in mice. Even still, don’t eat Canada moonseed.

11. Buckeye

12. Wisteria

13. False Morels

14. Wolfsbane

15. Horse Nettle

Despite its name, horse nettle (Solanum carolinense) is not actually a nettle, but rather it is a type of nightshade.

Horse nettle is a type of herbaceous plant that grows large leaves and has white and yellow star-shaped flowers. It is most commonly found in temperate North America, but you can also find it in areas of Europe, Australia, and temperate Asia.

Also called devil’s tomato, the horse nettle is well-known for bearing a highly toxic tomato-like fruit. This poisonous fruit contains solanine, which is a type of alkaloid that can cause abdominal pain, vomiting, nausea, and even respiratory arrest. When eaten in large quantities, horse nettle can even cause death.

Since the fruit of the horse nettle does look a lot like a cherry tomato, it’s important to be careful when picking tomato-like fruits in the wild. Keep in mind that the horse nettle has a thorny stem, which is one way that you can tell the two apart. However, caution is still necessary whenever picking tomato-like fruits on the trail.

16. Castor

Castor (Ricinus communis) is a type of flowering plant that’s arguably best known for the castor bean, which is technically a seed. The castor bean is used to create castor oil, which is used for manufacturing dozens of products, from paints to perfumes.

This plant is traditionally found throughout the Mediterranean Basin, the Indian subcontinent, and eastern Africa, though it’s now spread throughout the tropics and subtropics.

Although castor bean oil is a very popular manufacturing product and even though the castor bean looks like it might be edible, it’s actually highly toxic. This is because raw castor beans have a high level of ricin, which is a type of poison that prevents cells from making proteins.

Thankfully, castor bean poisoning isn’t that common, but it is possible, particularly if you eat a large number of castor beans. It’s estimated that a healthy adult would need to eat approximately 4 to 8 castor beans in order to get seriously ill.

But since the ricin in castor beans could kill you, it’s probably best to avoid eating castor beans, regardless of the quantity you consume.

17. American Bittersweet

American bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) is a fairly common type of twining vine that is found climbing its way up trees, fences, trellises, and other structures throughout deciduous ecosystems in North America.

It has small oval-shaped leaves and small flowers that form in clusters. Eventually, these flowers give way to small orange or red-colored fruits.

However, the American bittersweet has a bit of a controversial history of toxicity. While some sources maintain that the American bittersweet is not toxic to humans, it’s been suggested that the plant’s fruit was used by a number of Indigenous communities to induce vomiting.

Either way, we do know that American bittersweet is highly toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. So, if you’re adventuring with your pet or pack stock in tow, be mindful of these potentially dangerous fruits on the trail.

18. Daffodil

Daffodils are a common sight around manicured gardens and in the wilderness during the spring months. However, they are not a good trail snack because they are highly toxic.

All daffodil varieties contain a chemical called lycorine, which is present throughout the plant’s flower, stem, and bulb. In fact, the bulb of the daffodil has the highest concentration of lycorine, which is known to cause nausea, abdominal pain, and even liver damage.

Since daffodils are so distinctive when in bloom, it’s unlikely that someone would mistake them for a different kind of edible flower. The problem with daffodils arises before they bloom. Because daffodil bulbs can look like wild onions, some people have mistaken them for onions, which is problematic.

Thankfully, there is a way to tell daffodil bulbs and onions apart. First and foremost, daffodil bulbs don’t smell like onions. But, even in the absence of this olfactory clue, daffodil bulbs also don’t tear into layers like onions do. So, proper identification is key when searching for wild onions.

19. Deadly Nightshade

20. Yew

21. Pokeberries

22. Virginia Creeper

Sometimes called the five-leaved ivy, the Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is a type of decorative ivy that’s originally from the eastern and central parts of North America. Although it can sometimes be confused with poison ivy, Virginia creeper has clusters of five leaves—not three.

While Virginia creeper might not cause the same kinds of rashes as poison ivy (more on that in a bit), it’s not exactly a harmless plant.

In fact, the Virginia creeper has berries that look a lot like purple grapes but that contain oxalic acid. This can cause joint pain, as well as vomiting, diarrhea, and other similar symptoms when consumed.

23. Cotoneaster

Cotoneaster refers to a large genus of flowering plants that are technically part of the rose family. These plants were traditionally found throughout the temperate regions of Europe, Africa, and Asia, though you can now find them in North America.

Almost all cotoneaster plants feature berries and leaves that contain cyanogenic glycosides. Even though cotoneaster plants generally have low levels of these compounds, consuming too many berries can lead to kidney, liver, or heart failure. This is particularly true among young children.

Additionally, cotoneaster berries are believed to be toxic to dogs. Although a dog that eats these berries will usually only experience mild digestive problems, eating large quantities of berries could lead to severe health issues among canines.

24. Bitter Almonds

25. Mistletoe

A mainstay of Christmas and yuletide celebrations around the world, the mistletoe is a type of hemiparasitic plant that originated in Europe but has since been introduced to North America. But while the mistletoe is quite festive, it’s not a great snack to eat with your eggnog.

There are a number of active substances in mistletoe, including tyramine and phoratoxin, which can cause vomiting, nausea, and cardiac arrest.

But there are actually 1,500 different mistletoe species, each of which has varying levels of these toxins. This makes identifying particularly poisonous mistletoe plants very difficult.

In fact, it’s believed that American mistletoes are less toxic than their European counterparts. But with all those potentially nasty side effects to worry about, it’s probably better not to taste the mistletoe at your next holiday gathering.

26. Poison Ivy

27. Manchineel Tree

28. Holly

Holly is another Christmas symbol that’s known for being a festive addition to any wintery gathering. Like mistletoe, however, holly is also highly toxic, so it’s best as a decoration, rather than as a holiday snack.

While holly is a beautiful decorative plant, the berries of the holly plant genus Ilex (there are about 480 species in the genus) are all toxic. They contain a number of different compounds, including theobromine, rutin, quercetin, and chlorogenic acid.

For the most part, ingesting holly berries leads to diarrhea and vomiting, though they can also lead to intestinal problems. Eating even a few holly berries can lead to health problems in children. Thankfully, the prickly leaves of the holly plant usually dissuade kids from eating these berries, but it’s important to keep in mind while hiking or enjoying a yuletide celebration.

29. Elderberry

Although elderberry is a delicacy and one of the most commonly used medicinal plants on the planet, it’s technically toxic. Yep, that’s right. When eaten raw, elderberry’s bark, leaves, and berries can cause health problems.

That’s because elderberries naturally contain lectins, which are a type of protein that can cause stomach issues. Additionally, elderberries contain cyanogenic glycosides which can cause cyanide poisoning, just like in bitter almonds.

The good news is that cooked elderberries don’t contain these compounds, so it’s generally not a problem to eat the berries with proper preparation. Either way, the bark, branches, and leaves of elderberries don’t lose their toxic compounds when cooked, so hikers should avoid eating these during their travels.

30. Wild Cherry

Last but not least on our list, we have the wild cherry (Prunus serotina). Also called black cherry, the wild cherry tree is a deciduous tree that’s found throughout the Americas.

While it shares part of its name with the tasty cherry that many of us enjoy, the wild cherry’s leaves are highly toxic. The wild cherry tree leaf contains hydrocyanic acid and cyanogenic glycosides, which can release cyanide when ingested. This can be fatal if eaten in large quantities.

Fatalities associated with wild cherry in humans aren’t very common. However, livestock and pets are common victims of the wild cherry due to the fact that they sometimes eat the tree’s poisonous leaves. Therefore, hikers should keep a close eye on their pets while venturing down the trail.

How to Identify Common Poisonous Berries (North America Edition)

What to Do If You Eat a Toxic Plant

Hopefully, your astute plant ID skills and cautious approach to foraging have prevented you from accidentally eating a toxic plant that looks like food. In the unfortunate instance that you do eat something that’s not edible, it’s important that you quickly get to medical care.

Should you come into contact with a poisonous plant while hiking, do the following:

1. Stay Calm – It might sound cliché, but no one has ever achieved anything from panicking in an emergency.
2. Take Photos – If you can, take photos of what you ate. Doing so may help with plant identification by poison control or the hospital. Do not bring the berries, fungi, or plants with you to the hospital. Bringing these substances to the hospital can be dangerous for you and medical providers.
3. Get To Medical Care – Even if the amount of toxic berries that you ate is relatively small, your best bet is to get to medical care as soon as possible. Everyone reacts differently to different substances, so you want to be around medical professionals if you were to have an adverse reaction to a toxic plant. The faster you can get to medical care, the better, but don’t over-exert yourself or get lost in the process.
4. Provide Supportive Care – Should you be tasked with caring for someone in the backcountry that is having an adverse reaction to toxic berries or plants, you may need to provide supportive care to that person. Doing so is only appropriate for people with prior medical or wilderness medicine training. Supportive care in these wilderness situations usually means conducting a complete patient assessment and coordinating an evacuation.

The best

The antlers on bucks in full velvet have incredible tactile appeal. Every hunter has heard the story of a buddy who harvested a beautiful, trophy-sized buck only to arrive at the taxidermist with a patchy, ragged-looking specimen. Once velvet is off there is no way to reattach it.

That’s right — there’s no way. Not even if you save all the shed velvet and bring it along with your now hard horned set of antlers to the taxidermist. Velvet is like a banana peel. Basically, it’s just a skin, with no real veins running through it. Although some shops offer sprayed-on flocking, the results will likely look too perfect, and unnatural. The flocking process can also run $2.50 per Boone & Crockett inch, so your 200-inch buck suddenly got $500 more expensive to preserve.

Instead, here’s how to preserve the unique characteristics of your buck’s velvet antlers all the way to your taxidermist from a backcountry hunt:

Do Not Touch. Velvet is delicate. In September a buck’s velvet is slick, like a bar of soap, and primed to come off. A buck can rub off all his velvet in 10 minutes; just think what your hands can do if you drag a buck by his antlers. Grab those antlers, pull hard, and you’re likely to end up with your hands full of velvet while the deer stays in the same spot. The oils in your skin will also do two things. First, it will cause the velvet to become nappy and matted, particularly in warm conditions. Second, when it meets the natural oils from the deer velvet, it will make the environment more of a potential breeding ground for bacteria.

Bring rope. Many hunters grab along the base of the antlers to drag a buck after a successful harvest. Grabbing and pulling will puncture the velvet on all the little knobs around the base that give antlers their character. Instead, if you need to move the entire deer, use a rope to wrap around the deer’s neck and base of the skull to drag it with instead of using your hands.

Do Not Rub. Any kind of abrasion will ruin velvet, especially dragging. Continue to avoid all contact with anything that’s potentially abrasive, including your backpack straps when hiking out of backcountry. Instead, strap the skull to your pack, not the antlers themselves.

Wrap it. If for some reason you can’t cape your buck, gently wrap the antlers with your base layer or another piece of spandex material. Wrap them tight and tape down the material with electrical tape. Wrapping before strapping down reduces potential friction. Now you can carry your antlers with straps if needed.

Cushion your buck for the drive. If your hunt is closer to home, you don’t need to follow quite as many steps. Get your deer to your truck using a wheeler or a cart instead of dragging it by the horns. Then secure the head so the antlers don’t come in contact with any surfaces.

Don’t have straps? Put something soft, like a jacket, pillow or sleeping bag, underneath the antlers. This prevents the velvet rubbing off when you rattle down the road or your buddies check out your buck.

Cool and cover. Heat and blood speed the decomposition process. Keep your buck as cool as possible. A shade tree is ideal. Cover the antlers to keep the flies off, but never use a plastic garbage bag. The plastic will turn your velvet into a ruined, smelly mess. Instead, cover the antlers with a deer meat bag to allow for air circulation without any spoilage.

Don’t hang. Antlers in velvet are full of blood that needs to be drained out if you’ll be staying any length of time in the backcountry. Some say to hang the buck upside down by the skull and make pinholes with your knife at the tip of each tine. Blood should then drain out the tips. However, I don’t recommend this method because those small cuts split open the living tissue and are likely to crack when they dry, leaving extra work for your taxidermist to try to repair.

Drain without making a mark. The better drainage method is to get the hide off the skull of the deer by caping it. This process will sever the blood vessels that run outside of the skull between the antlers and the velvet, effectively draining the antlers themselves.

Resist cutting the cape too short; you’ll need from the middle rib forward. Your taxidermist can always cut off what isn’t needed, but can’t make a substantial cape appear from nothing. Then prop the antlers against a tree, base down. The blood will simply drain out of the bottom of the antlers without leaving any marks.

Leave chemicals to the experts. You can get embalming fluid from your taxidermist before your hunt, but in a backcountry situation the last thing you need to worry about is dealing with this highly potent chemical. Embalming fluid is extremely dangerous and requires you to wear double latex gloves and eye protection when using it.

The fluid also demands a syringe and needle to inject the antlers properly. Remember: embalming fluid preserves whatever it touches, so if it gets on your skin, seek emergency medical attention. Not to sound too dramatic, but if embalming fluid gets in your eye, and you’re out of easy ambulance/EMS range, you will most likely lose it.

Be quick. Velvet starts to decompose right from the moment of harvest. Get those antlers and cape to a taxidermist today. Not tomorrow. The quicker your taxidermist can inject your velvet with embalming fluid, the better. This fluid bonds the proteins together and stops decomposition in its tracks. Now your velvet will last for years, no matter how you mount your trophy.

Take care with velvet antlers and you’ll have a beautiful trophy as a way to remember that great hunt. Taxidermists can fix small blemishes with an airbrush and epoxy, but they can only make a deer look as good as when it came in the shop, not better.

A finished velvet buck is an impressive sight. Be sure to take extra care in the field to protect the velvet so you can give the taxidermist a chance to make a breathtaking mount.

Finding Your Ideal Baitcasting Reel: A Buyer’s Guide

Baitcasting reels are an essential piece of equipment for any serious fisherman. These reels are designed to give anglers greater control over their casts. They are typically used for targeting larger fish species, such as bass, musky and pike. Unlike spinning reels, which are designed to be easy to use, baitcasting reels require a bit more skill to operate. With practice, however, you can achieve greater casting distance and accuracy.

While the right baitcasting reel can help you cast further with greater accuracy, with so many different models and brands available, it can be difficult to know what to look for when selecting your new reel. In this buyer’s guide, we’ll go through each of the key features you should consider when choosing a baitcasting reel, so you can make an informed decision.

How To Choose the Right Baitcasting Reel

Gear ratio

The gear ratio is the number of times the spool rotates for each turn of the handle. It determines how quickly you can retrieve your line and how much power you have when reeling in a fish. A higher gear ratio means a faster retrieve, but with less power. A lower gear ratio means slower retrieval but more power. When choosing a gear ratio, consider the type of fishing you’ll be doing and the size of the fish you’re targeting.

Line capacity

Line capacity refers to the amount of fishing line the spool can hold. It’s important to choose a reel with enough line capacity for the type of fishing you’ll be doing. For example, if you’ll be fishing in deeper waters or targeting larger fish, you’ll need a reel with a higher line capacity.

Drag system

The drag system determines how much resistance the fish feels when it pulls on the line. A good drag system is essential for reeling larger fish without breaking your line. Look for a reel with a smooth drag system that’s easy to adjust.

Bearings

Bearings are important for smooth operation and the longevity of the reel. The more bearings a reel has, the smoother it will operate. Opt for a reel with high-quality bearings that are corrosion-resistant.

Brake system

The brake system is designed to prevent backlash and ensure accurate casting. There are two types of brake systems: magnetic and centrifugal. Magnetic brakes are easier to adjust but may not be as effective in windy conditions. Centrifugal brakes are more effective in windy conditions but may be harder to adjust.

Handle material and grip

The handle material and grip are important for comfort and control. Look for a reel with a comfortable grip that’s easy to hold, even when wet. Handles made from materials like cork or EVA foam are popular choices.

Frame and body construction

The frame and body construction of a baitcasting reel can affect its durability and weight. Look for a reel with a lightweight but strong frame and body. Materials like aluminum and graphite are popular choices for high-quality reels.

Weight distribution

The weight distribution of a reel can affect how it feels in your hand and how easy it is to cast. Look for a reel with a balanced weight distribution that feels comfortable to hold and cast.

Anti-reverse system

An anti-reverse system is designed to prevent the handle from turning backward when you’re reeling in a fish. This can help you maintain tension on the line and prevent the fish from escaping. Look for a reel with a high-quality anti-reverse system that’s easy to engage and disengage.

Line guide system

The line guide system helps prevent your line from tangling and ensures smooth casting. Look for a reel with a high-quality line guide system that’s easy to adjust.

Price point

Baitcasting reels can range in price from less than $50 to several hundred dollars. While a more expensive reel may offer better features and durability, it’s important to choose a reel that meets your needs and fits your budget.

Brand reputation and customer reviews

When choosing a baitcasting reel, it’s important to consider the reputation of the brand and read customer reviews. Look for a brand with a good reputation for quality and customer service. Reading customer reviews can give you an idea of how well the reel performs in real-world fishing situations.

Why You Should Walk Back Tune Your Arrow Rest

As I said, I have recently been experimenting with different broadhead options and while I did my testing at a maximum range of 30 yards, it wasn’t until I stretched the distance that the weakness in my system began to show its face. And, despite the fact that the average treestand bow-shot happens between 15-20 yards, I like to push the limits of my equipment and increase my maximum, effective killing range (MEKR) whenever possible.

My broadhead, which seemed to fly so precisely at 30 yards (matching my field points) suddenly began to develop a mind of its own when I hit 40 paces. However, instead of looking at the head in question with a skeptical eye, I knew exactly where the problem lies. It could be found in my arrow rest. The only way to fix the problem was to Walk Back Tune it.

How Do You Walk Back Tune Your Rest?

While the term might sound complicated the procedure is rather simple to perform. But, before we discuss the “how” let’s cover the necessary items you will need.

1. Large Target: Try to find the biggest one possible.
2. Duct Tape or Blue Painters Tape
3. Shooting distance of at least 40 yards
4. Allen Wrenches
5. Range Finder
6. Calm or No Wind.

Start by using the tape to make a T on your target face starting at about 6 inches below the top of the target. Depending on the speed of your bow, the vertical portion of the T might need to be longer or shorter.

Once you have made the T on the target face it is then time to shoot your first arrow. Starting at 10 or 20 yards, aim exactly where the horizontal and vertical portions of the T connect. If your arrows don’t hit the mark then adjust your sight only. Keep adjusting your sight until your arrow impacts the intersecting lines. Once that happens it is time to move further away from the target.

Using the same pin you used for the first arrow (20 yards) walk back to 30 yards and launch an arrow at the same intersecting point on the T. Then, walk back to 40 yards and, using the same 20-yard pin to aim with, shoot an arrow at the intersecting lines on the T. Repeat this process for 50 and 60 yards if possible. Again, all shots are taken while aiming at the same intersecting line of the T using only your 20-yard pin.

Once completed, you will find that of course, your arrows will fall from the top to the bottom. However, the critical detail will be which side of the tape they landed on; either right or left of the centerline on the T. You will notice that the further the distance of the shot, the further away from the centerline your arrows will be. This is normal as the greater the distance the greater the influence on arrow impact.

Adjusting Your Arrow Rest

Unlike sighting in your bow (when you chase the arrow with your sight’s pin), walk back tuning requires that your arrow rest be moved in the direction you want the arrow to go. For example, if your arrows are falling to the left of the centerline on the T then you will want to move your arrow rest to the right. Conversely, if your arrows are falling to the right of the centerline on the T then you will want to move your arrow rest to the left.

Believe me when I tell you it only takes a minute amount of movement in order to drastically change your arrow’s point of impact. More than once I have overcompensated and pushed my arrow beyond the desired impact point.

So, after making a small adjustment to your rest repeat the process to determine if more movement is necessary and in what direction. Pretty soon all of your arrows should impact the vertical line on the T from top to bottom. Remember, use only your top pin for all shots.

The Basics of 2nd and 3rd Axis Adjustments

I once thought that the 2nd and 3rd axis adjustments on my bow sight were more suited for the western big-game bowhunter. However, while prepping for a western hunt I realized the importance of setting these adjustments not only for elk in September but also for my favorite whitetail stand in November. As it turns out, the 2nd and 3rd axis adjustments are both critical for dead-on accuracy; especially in hill country or when shooting uphill, downhill, and even side-hill.

The 2nd Axis adjustment (which can be done with your bow leveled and resting) is probably the easiest to understand as it runs through the shooter’s line of sight and is adjusted by rotating the sight housing like the hands on a clock (clockwise or counterclockwise). Up close you might not recognize any effects if things are out of whack. However, at longer distances, your accuracy will suffer.

The 3rd Axis adjustment (which should be done while you are at full draw) influences the rotational axis that your sight level moves on. In other words, it is like a door swinging open either toward the shooter or away. Both of which you do not want.

Instead, when you reach full draw, your bow’s bubble level should be exactly perpendicular to your line of sight. You don’t want the level to angle (or hinge) toward you or away from you. If it does, even if slightly, the difference in angle will be enough to ruin your uphill and downhill shots. This typically results in left and right misses.

Second and Third Axis adjustments are made differently depending on what type of sight you are using and the manufacturer. Therefore, it is best to refer to your owner’s manual when attempting to adjust them. My intent with this article isn’t to show you how to do it but the importance of doing it.

However, one universal tool that will be needed is a level that attaches to your bow. You can either purchase one or you can build your own. I built my own and spent the money I saved on something else hunting-related.

Conclusion

While you might be knee-deep in hanging tree stands and organizing trail camera images, don’t neglect the most important variable in your whitetail efforts-your bow. After all, nothing else matters if it isn’t tuned to its maximum potential. With Walk Back Tuning and 2nd and 3rd Axis adjustments, you can rest assured that it will be.

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Optics are a critical part of using any firearm. This tool impacts the way you see and will change how you fire. Two popular optics include the Holosun 507k and the EPS Carry. In this article, we’ll discuss each product to determine which is right for you.

Specifications

To determine which optic is the best choice, we will need to examine the specifications of each optic. Many details go into each product, from the reticle to the dimension of each product. Everything matters when considering the best choice.

We will go over the following:

• Footprints
• Reticle
• Battery
• Shake Awake Technology
• Housing
• Brightness Level
• Dimensions
• Pricing

Each makes a difference when comparing two optics.

Let’s dive deeper into each of the specifications. The more you know about the products, the easier it will be to choose the right one for your needs. First, we’ll talk about the footprints of each.

Footprints

The Holosun 507K and the EPS have the same footprint. The EPS has the same footprint as every optics device in the K series.

Thanks to this similarity, there is no difference between the mounting standard and the bottom surface of the red dot sight on either product.

Next, let’s talk about the reticle.

Reticle

Each product has options for multiple reticle systems. You can go with a 2 MOA dot or a 6 MOA option.

With the multi-reticle system, there is a standard 2 MOA dot and a 32 MOA ring, 2 MOA dot only, and 32 MOA ring in that order. If you pick the MRS selection, you also get Solar FailSafe. This addition allows constant charging with a quality solar-powered system.

Again, there is no winner in this category. Both products have multiple options to serve you well on the move. You may pick the reticle system that best suits your needs.

The battery is where the first differences emerge. Let’s discuss this source of power next.

Battery

The EPS Carry comes with a CR1620 battery. This device has 12,000 hours of life on circle plus dot, or 50,000 hours if you use the dot-only on setting 6. It will last even longer with a solar charging ability.

On the other hand, the Holosun 507K runs on a CR1632 battery. This option allows up to 50,000 hours of battery life on setting 6.

The CR1632 will last longer and provide more use than a CR1620 battery. The Holosun 507K is the winner in this category.

All Holosun devices come equipped with shake awake technology. Let’s talk about what this addition is next.

Shake Awake Technology

Shake Awake technology is an addition to Holosun’s optics that turns off the LED in the system when there is no motion detected. It’s designed to save energy and help the optic last for as long as possible.

Users may customize the amount of time it takes for the LED system to turn off in their settings. It’s also possible to turn off Shake Awake entirely, keeping all control to yourself.

The 507K and EPS Carry tie in this category. They both have the quality Shake Awake system.

Every optic comes in a shell to keep it safe. Let’s examine the housing for each product next.

Housing

The EPS Carry has a housing made of aircraft grade 7075 T6 aluminum. This product is one of the highest-strength aluminum alloys on the market, composed of zinc and copper as alloying ingredients. The housing is durable and meant to withstand significant damage.

The Holosun 507K has the same material protecting it from the outside world. You will receive the same benefits from this housing as you will with the other. However, it isn’t aircraft grade so it might not be as strong as the EPS Carry.

The winner in this category is the EPS Carry. Its aircraft-grade housing will help it last longer than the competing Holosun 507K.

Next, let’s consider the brightness level of the product. The better the illumination in a system, the easier it will be to see what you are aiming at in the dark and light.

Brightness Level

Both products have excellent brightness level features. Both choices have 12 levels of brightness options, eight for the daytime and four that are night vision compatible. They offer extensive visibility during every light shift while you are out.

There is no winner in this category, as both products have the same brightness level offerings. You’ll have plenty of visibility no matter which of the two you select.

We have two more categories to cover before landing on a winner. Next, let’s talk about the dimensions of each product.

Dimensions

The EPS Carry measures 1.62 x 1.19 x 0.95 inches. It weighs one ounce, and the window size measures .58 x .77 inches.

The Holosun 507K measures 1.6 x .98 x .95 inches. It weighs one ounce and has a window size of .58 x .77 inches.

These products are very similar in their dimensions, off by a fraction of an inch in the cases where there is a difference. We would say the EPS Carry is the winner, as it offers a slightly larger viewing window and device for the user.

Next, let’s talk about perhaps the most vital component – price.

Pricing

The Holosun 507K costs $320, while the EPS Carry costs $400. If you want a lower-priced EPS, nix the Carry for the EPS at $330.

When considering money, the Holosun 507K is the more economical option. It costs $80 less than the competing EPS Carry.

We’ve gone over the details of the Holosun 507K and the EPS Carry. Which one emerges as the best optics option for your firearm needs?

Conclusion

Although there are many similarities between these products, the winner is the Holosun 507K. It has a better battery life and doesn’t cost as much as the competing EPS Carry.

No matter which Holosun product you use, you are sure to have a quality experience. Each product comes equipped with items like the Shake Awake features and excellent optics, allowing for the best possible experience every time.