The newly upgraded Maven B1.2 binocular is now lighter, brighter, and more compact than the previous B.1. Better yet, it has improved coatings and a larger Schmidt-Pechan prism that delivers a wider field of view.

To get us a closer look, Maven sent Man Makes Fire a review unit. After testing the Maven B1.2 in 10×42, as well as putting it to work while archery elk hunting in Idaho, this is what we learned:

Maven B1.2 Review

I very much liked the original B.1, which I hunted with for two years (full original B.1 review here). Still, I have to tell you: The new Maven 10×42 B1.2 is much better.

How is that possible?

For me, the B1.2 delivers two major improvements in usability. First, the new B1.2 is smaller so it’s easier to handle. It’s .5″ shorter than the B.1 and it weighs 2.7 oz less than the B.1.

These differences might seem like relatively minor changes, but in the field, they’re not. When you need to use one hand to grab your binoculars and take a quick look at what you hope is an elk or deer, the lighter and more compact B1.2 binoculars make this much easier. In addition, when I’m standing up and looking through the B1.2, I can hold it steadier for longer periods of time. That leads to an in-the-field information boost, and when I’m trying to find an elk, I’ll take any edge I can get.

To put this in perspective, consider this: Last year, on big-mile days I found myself thinking about taking the lighter (but not as crisp) Maven C.1 10×42 binoculars — just to save weight and gain some one-handed agility. This year with the B1.2 in 10×42, that’s no longer a question at all.

Bigger Field of View

The new B1.2 now includes a wider field of view. The new FOV is 362′ — which is just 21′ wider than the previous FOV.

How is 21 feet a big deal?

While the edge-to-edge clarity of the B1.2 binoculars is very good, having a wider field of view can help increase the perceived sweet spot as you’re looking through the binoculars. This lets your brain process more information and maybe see movement or an object that you might not otherwise notice. For me, technically getting a wider view isn’t that big of a deal when I’m trying to examine a hillside piece-by-piece . . . but how I feel when I do this, which can sometimes get tedious, makes a difference. This FOV boost makes the Maven B1.2 binoculars feel quite a bit more immersive than the B.1s.

To be fair, the B.1s are already very good. If you already have a set of B.1s, the overall specifications mean you don’t have to upgrade. At the same time, here’s a warning: If you suffer from gear lust, don’t look through the new Maven B1.2 binoculars.

Check out Maven’s Customization Builder to see cool camo and color patterns!

Improved Coatings, Better Light Transmission

The biggest B1.2 surprise to me is that Maven found a way to improve its fully-multicoated ED glass. In case you’re wondering, optics manufacturers coat their lenses with secret sauces and ions and use techniques that reduce light refraction so that more light passes correctly through each piece of glass.

The glass itself is ED glass made in Japan and assembled in Wyoming — just like all the glass in Maven’s high-end optics. ED stands for extra-low dispersion, and it’s basically high-end glass that improves the delivery of wavelengths of light to reduce chromatic aberration (which I’ll get to below).

However, the new coatings, in combination with the new construction of the prism, has somehow resulted in a 3.6% boost of light transmission — up from 90.9% to 94.5%. That’s a very impressive gain. Incidentally, many optics companies don’t publish this sort of data, but Maven publishes a massive binocular comparison chart that shows key specifications across its entire line. So cool.

But wait, there’s more to this story: The new Maven B1.2 10×42 binocular now competes very closely, and sometimes beats, the light transmission percentages delivered by Maven binoculars with Abbe-Koenig type prisms. In general, Abbe-Koenig prisms deliver the best light transmission but they are heavier, longer, harder to manufacture, and cost more. The fact that the relatively short B1.2 with Schmidt-Pechan prisms can compete here is, again, impressive.

Chromatic Aberration

What is a chromatic aberration? In general, when you can see an outline of translucent color tracing an object’s edges in a high-contrast situation, you’re seeing a chromatic aberration. It occurs when different wavelengths of color don’t converge at exactly the same spot after passing through a lens. It’s more noticeable at higher magnifications.

I can spot a small bit of chromatic aberration with the Maven B1.2. In side-by-side testing with the B.1, the chromatic aberration effect is very similar — and quite small.

To test for chromatic aberrations, you can look through binoculars at a U.S. Air Force black-and-white test chart . . . or you can find a non-moving high-contrast subject in the sky. For example, if you look at a dark part of a tree branch against a bright sky, you can usually see some color fringing. In the Maven B1.2, it’s a very thin purplish hue. (Your brain has a tendency to ignore this, so with good glass you have to look hard to find it.)

At home, there’s a tree I use for this purpose — in addition to a U.S. Air Force test chart taped to my garage door when I’m more serious.

So, is this a problem?

For the vast majority of people it’s not. First, the color fringing effect is very small. Second, most people’s brains tend to filter it out as they process images. My recommendation? You won’t notice it unless you work very hard to find it. So don’t worry about it. Everything else is so rich and vibrant you won’t care.

Shop the new B.12 direct from Maven!

Maven B1.2 Specifications:

Magnification 8x 10x Obj. Lens Diameter 42mm 42mm Exit Pupil 5.25mm 4.2mm Field of View @1,000 yds 420′ 362′ Brightness 27.6 17.6 Light Transmission % 93.95% 94.50% Twilight Factor 18.3 20.5 Weight 26.8 oz 26.8 oz Dimension WxHxD 5.2″ x 5.7″ x 2.2″ 5.2″ x 5.7″ x 2.2″ Eye Relief 18.1mm 17.8mm Near Focus 4.9′ 4.9′ Prisms Type Wide Angle Schmidt-Pechan Wide Angle Schmidt-Pechan Prism Reflective Coating Dielectric Coating Dielectric Coating ED Glass Yes Yes Diopter Correction (DPT) +/-3 +/-5 Waterproof/Pressure Testing IPX7 (1m for 30 minutes) IPX7 (1m for 30 minutes) Functional Temp Range -13°~140°F -13°~140°F Frame Material Magnesium Magnesium Internal Gas Purge Nitrogen Nitrogen Tripod Adaptable Yes Yes Country of Origin Japanese components, assembled in the U.S. Japanese components, assembled in the U.S.

Price-to-Value Ratio

Maven is a relatively small Wyoming-based optics company. A key part of its business model and competitive nature comes from its direct-to-consumer business model. By cutting out the middle man, so to speak, Maven can deliver great optics that cost less than the competition.

The Maven model also lets the company avoid negotiating with retailers over price points and stock levels — which can affect product ingenuity, quality and consumer pricing.

The drawback to Maven’s model is that you can’t walk into a Cabela’s or Bass Pro Shops brick-and-mortar store and look through a Maven optic. You have to order it online.

Maven’s Customization Program

Speaking of ordering online, Maven has a cool customization program. For an additional charge, you can customize the body color with a camo pattern. In addition, you can customize the color of the neck strap rings, focus wheel, ocular lens rings, objective lens rings, tripod/hinge cap, and labeling. And then you can even have the bino engraved with up to 30 characters — which might turn the Maven B1.2 binoculars into a great hunting gift idea. And the kind of optic you’ll eventually pass down to your kids.

Unconditional Lifetime Warranty

The Maven warranty competes with the very best optics warranties in the business: If a Maven optic ever fails — or gets broken — for any reason, you can return it to Maven for a replacement.

But it gets better. Maven will also stand behind a Maven optic as long as it bears their name. This means that if your Maven binoculars fail your son or daughter in 30 years, Maven will still repair or replace them.

Competition & Alternative Options

There are many great binoculars to choose from these days. For the most part, any binocular that’s priced more than $900 or so will be very good. In fact, most midrange binoculars in the $500 price range will be so good that the vast majority of people will never have a need to upgrade. Case in point? The Maven C.1 10×42 and C.3 10×50 are pretty great. At $900-950, the direct-to-consumer pricing of the Maven B1.2 binoculars sets them up to compete well against binoculars that cost twice as much. Here are several other can’t-go-wrong competitive options you might consider:

Vortex Razor HD — The most widely known competitor to the Maven B1.2 is the Vortex Razor HD binocular. Vortex has generated a loyal following over the years by investing heavily in marketing and its customer service department, which also backs a no-questions-asked lifetime warranty. The Razor HDs in 10×42 are slightly taller, slightly lighter, and deliver the same FOV as the B1.2s. The key benefit is that you can find the Razor HD binoculars in brick-and-mortar stores. The key drawback is the increased price. Note: The term “HD” in relation to binoculars tends to be more about marketing a term that consumers have associations with rather than identifying a specific type of glass. When comparing one binocular to another among different manufacturers, “HD” doesn’t actually pinpoint any agreed upon difference. (The Razor HDs do use ED glass, in case you’re wondering.)

Swarovski EL with Swarovision — Pretty much everyone who has ever looked through Swarovski EL Binoculars can appreciate the build quality and optical fidelity. The main benefit of Swarovski EL series is the industry-leading quality. The main drawback is the very high price point.

Zeiss Victory SF — Aside from fantastic glass and overall quality, Zeiss fans appreciate the balance and weight.

Leica Noctivid — The Leica Noctivid in 10×42 rounds out the ultra high-end competition. At 30.3 ounces, they’re a bit heavy compared to the similar binoculars in this class, but the 376′ FOV leads the pack.

Maven B1.2 10×42 Review: The Verdict

All-in-all, the new Maven B1.2 is a worthy upgrade to its B.1 predecessor. If you already have a B.1, the B1.2 will deliver a slight optical boost, but that likely won’t lead to a logical decision to upgrade. If, however, the previous weight and size of the B.1 turned you off, the lighter B1.2 with its more expansive Field of View makes it far more packable and easier to hold steady. The bottom line is, the B1.2 delivers competitive specs, has an excellent price-to-value ratio, and is a delight to use. Very highly recommended.

Get the Gear:

• Maven B1.2 Binoculars — 8×42 & 10×42

If you’re in the market for an LPVO, it goes without saying that you’d want the best glass that you can afford. But before we get into the best lpvo for you, there’s another question we have to answer first: Do you choose an lpvo with first focal plane or second focal plane? We’ll get into all of that in this article today.

What is an LPVO?

So what is an LPVO? LPVO stands for low powered variable optic. Essentially, it’s a scope that allows you to adjust the magnification power from 1X to something higher. The most common lpvo power ranges go from 1X to 6X, 1X to 8X and 1X to 10X.

FFP vs SFP

When browsing online sites you may see the acronyms ‘FFP’ and ‘SFP.’ FFP stands for first focal plane and SFP stands for second focal plane. To make sure you don’t unintentionally purchase the wrong lpvo, pay attention to these optics’ acronyms in the product title and description. But what is the difference between first and second focal plane?

What is First Focal Plane?

One way to help you better understand first focal plane vs second is to remember ‘FFP’ as ‘front focal plane.’ Take a look at the image above and you’ll see several pieces of information. Notice where in the figure it says ‘objective’ and ‘eyepiece.’ The eyepiece is the rear part of the scope closest to your eye. For a first focal plane lpvo, the reticle is placed on the plane (magnification erector assembly) furthest away from your eye and closer to the front of the scope.

Great, what does that all really mean? Based on where the reticle is placed it will give you a different focusing and aiming experience with your lpvo. For first focal plane optics the reticle will change in size in correlation with which power magnification you are using. The higher power you go, the larger the reticle will appear. As you reduce magnification, the reticle shrinks in size. At 1x power the reticle is barely visible and that goes for the illuminated red dot as well (if the lpvo has one). Another caveat is that at max power, the reticle may become so large and thick that it could cover up the target in an undesirable manner (depends on manufacturer and model).

Is a first focal plane scope better?

Generally speaking, the common trend for most shooters is to buy FFP scopes. The more accurate answer is that FFP is not necessarily the better option but it is certainly the more easy and convenient one. A lot of critics will say that using high quality FFP scopes will improve your shooting and chances of acquiring a target faster. Why is that?

The reason for that is because with a first focal plane lpvo, the mil dots or holdover marks on a FFP scope’s reticle will remain accurate no matter what magnification power you are using. This means that, depending on the reticle type you’re using, there is little to no calculations ever needed while aiming. That’s why competitors and hunters alike will often choose FFP LPVO’s over a SFP.

What is the best first focal plane scope?

It’s a tough call but we would say that a couple of the best first focal plane lpvo scopes include the Nightforce ATACR 1-8×24 or the Vortex Razor HD Gen III 1-10×24. We wouldn’t consider any 1X to 6X lpvo as the best because with a larger optical range, the clarity of being at 6X on the aforementioned ATACR or Razor is just that much clearer than a lpvo that maxes out 6X.

What is Second Focal Plane?

Now that you know what the first focal plane is, understanding the second focal plane is a lot easier. Since the first focal plane is closest towards the front of the scope, the second focal plane is the one closest to your eye when looking through the scope. Thus, the reticle is located on the second focal plane for SFP LPVO’s.

With a SFP lpvo, unlike with a FFP lpvo, the reticle maintains the same size no matter which power magnification is being used. How does that translate to your shooting experience? Well, with SFP, it means that your reticle’s hold off marks are only accurate at a designated power set by the manufacturer so some may see that as a major losing point.

However, SFP glass is typically clearer and has less distortion at higher magnifications. Something rarely talked about, if ever, is that SFP lpvo users also get to enjoy a brighter red dot compared to FFP lpvo scopes which aids in faster target acquisition at short distances. More importantly, if you simply remember your holds at each magnification, the accuracy of SFP hold off marks becomes a non-issue. So definitely don’t disregard SFP LPVO’s as an option while you’re shopping around as it is a more than viable option.

What is a second focal plane good for?

Optics manufacturers market second focal plane LPVO’s as good options for low-light situations such as hunting or scenarios that don’t require you to use hash marks for range estimation. There’s definitely some wisdom in that — take a look at the image above. That’s the (MOA) reticle of the Vortex Razor HD Gen III 1-10×24 FFP lpvo scope.

Notice how there are several numbers next to all the holdover marks? Well these sort of reticles aren’t used with second focal plane LPVO’s since those numbers and mil dots would only be accurate at one of the power magnifications set by the manufacturer. As information that is only accurate at one of the scope’s settings it just wouldn’t make sense for a SFP scope to use that kind of reticle. Most SFP lpvo’s will use a reticle similar to the one in the image below.

If you’re shooting with an AR-15 or an AR-10 at targets inside of 500 yards, the second focal plane LPVO is going to work perfectly. That being said, SFP optics have traditionally been used by hunters the most.

Is the second focal plane better?

“Better” is such a subjective unit of measurement. Every shooter is going to have a different set of deciding factors for what type of lpvo works “better” for them. If the reticle changing in size bothers you in FFP scopes, then a SFP scope might be more suitable to your preference. When it comes to first focal plane vs second — If you venture into long distance and precision shooting but don’t mind doing some quick conversions for calculating accurate MOA for the reticle’s hold off marks then SFP is going to work for you. For those that don’t want to be doing any math or extra critical thinking then SFP may not be for you. While higher quality (really depends on price range) FFP lpvo’s may not have this issue — some SFP lpvo’s can be just as effective, if not more, in close quarters situations since SFP scopes tend to have brighter red dots.

What is the best second focal plane LPVO?

In our opinion, the best second focal plane lpvo is EOTech’s Vudu 1-8×24 SFP. While 1-8x power lpvo’s are not commonly made with second focal plane reticles EOTech designed this expressly for 3-gun competitions. That means this lpvo is great for short to mid-range hunting distances as well. Of course, if you’re hunting larger game or doing precision shooting you might want something with more range and in that case this optic would not be the best for those applications.

LPVO Applications

What are all the applications that a lpvo can be used in? In this section we’ll discuss all the instances where iron sights, red dot sights and holographic sights just might not cut it but a lpvo might be more suitable.

LPVO – Competitive Shooting

A lot of competitive shooting involves cardboard slaying at very close distances. But to make things more interesting, it’s very common to see a couple of steel targets be set out a couple hundred yards away for a match. While a red dot, reflex or holographic sight can be perfect for any target inside of 100 yards, it might get difficult once targets start being placed out double or triple that distance. Accuracy is important and gets you higher scores in some types of matches but at the end of the day, speed is the name of the game. An lpvo can help competitors save significant time in finding their target and taking aim which is paramount when looking to place and win medals.

LPVO – Target Practice

Plinking is really fun. Sometimes there’s nothing better than the positive feedback of hearing the sound of steel ringing through your ear pro. But at some point, you have to ask yourself, “what the heck are you doing?” Are you shooting with any sort of purpose or are you really just mag dumping? Hopefully, you’re training for a specific reason. Whether your reason for doing target practice is for competition or more for a duty purpose, having an lpvo is a force multiplier as it increases your effective range and accuracy. If you expect to be engaging targets further out than 100 yards getting a lpvo is highly recommended.

LPVO – Law Enforcement/Military

It doesn’t seem like lpvo usage is as common with local law enforcement just yet but you can be sure that our military is definitely all aboard on the lpvo train. For most civilians and competitors we won’t really need any lpvo with power magnification ranges above 1X to 10X. However, soldiers in the military may need to regularly engage with the enemy at much further distances than that range allows for. Which is why there are also several LPVO’s that cover a much further distance. Just look at all the different ATACR riflescopes that Nightforce offers.

LPVO – Hunting

LPVOs are perfect for hunting varmint and smaller game 1X to 6X power is the perfect amount of optical range needed to hunt coyotes or feral boars. But of course, if you need more range you opt for a scope with 1X to 8X or 1X to 10X power. Anything bigger than that and we tread into medium powered variable optics and that’s not a lpvo anymore.

Start your next AR-15 build with 80 Percent Arms!

We hope this has helped better inform you on the first vs second focal plane debate. Whether you get a FFP LPVO or a SFP LPVO, you’re going to need a dope AR-15 to put it on! Start your own 80% AR15 build today and let our awesome customer service team know if you need any help along the way.

The anti-gunners in gun control advocacy groups and politicians are constantly going after our rights to have and make our own firearms. Don’t believe us? You must not have been paying attention to the news the past couple of years. Subscribe to our emails below to get our weekly newsletter so you stay informed and apprised of the most important 2A News today.

Firearms and wood go together like chips and salsa.

Despite the revolutions of plastics and the growth of space-age alloys – there is something about a good wooden stock that just cannot be replicated or imitated by anything else.

But custom cut wood is often prohibitively expensive and metal chassis aren’t what you want to carry when on a long hunting trip.

What you need is wood. Warm, natural wood – but at a price that won’t break you.

Boyds Gun Stocks are made of laminated layers of wood that are precision machined to fit almost any rifle action on the market. From Ruger 10/22s to AK-47s and AR-15s to the Howa 1500 Barreled Action – Boyds has a stock for you.

They also come in a wide range of colors, styles, grips, fore ends, coatings, and more!

Basically – it’s like having a custom carpenter for your rifle, but at the price point of mass-produced plastic. Starting at under $140, Boyds delivers major value for their price.

What are Boyds Gun Stocks?

When you visit Boyds site, you can’t get something with same day shipping. That’s because everything they offer they custom make after you order it. While this means that shipping isn’t Amazon Prime fast, it also means that you get your stock.

Not something that fell off a shelf.

Every stock Boyds makes is made from laminated hardwood (layers of hardwood that have been pressed together using heat, pressure, and resin). This keeps them lightweight, strong, and delivers that warm wood feel that you’re looking for.

They’ve also been doing it since 1981, so they’ve had time to get really good at it.

Like many people, I was interested in Boyds stocks for a while before actually getting one to test out, the recent Howa 1500 Barreled Actions that were sent to me provided me the perfect opportunity!

Boyds sent me two of their stocks, their highly-popular AT-One stock, and a Platinum profile stock – I got the AT-One in Nutmeg Laminate and the Platinum in Forest Camo Laminate, both are gorgeous!

Boyds AT-One

I’ll just say it – I like this stock. If you’re looking for a stock that crosses the bridge between a custom precision stock and an easy-to-use hunting stock, this one is for you.

However, it does both roles decently without doing either role outstandingly.

Most of the stocks Boyds makes are non-adjustable, the AT-One is the exception with an adjustable length-of-pull and adjustable cheek rest.

Both are easy and quick to change, just push a button and move the part. Easy!

This is a nice addition to have – but it isn’t perfect as the adjustment points offered aren’t as precise as I would have liked.

While for the LoP it isn’t a big deal, you notice it a bit more with the cheek rest. For hunting, plinking, or even casual long-range shooting – the adjustments offered are perfectly adequate.

But if you wanted to turn this into a bench rest precision rifle, then the options offered on the cheek weld leave something to be desired.

I mounted a 300 Win Mag Howa 1500 Barreled Action in my AT-One because I wanted to make sure it could take the heavy pounding that comes with a 300 Win Mag.

After several range trips, I’m happy to say that even using hot 300 Win mag loads – this stock is holding up just fine. Better than my shoulder is at least!

The AT-One also makes for a good shooting rifle – the Howa 1500 BA I had mounted in it is a great rifle action, but the free floated Boyds stock allowed me to shoot this 3/4 MOA group at 150 yards.

Who is it for?

While the AT-One is a jack-of-all-trades, it does each role very well – just not perfectly. But that is exactly what many of us need in a stock, something that just works no matter what it is we’re doing.

If I want to work on my shooting at the range, the AT-One has enough adjustments to let me do that in almost any stance or configuration I want. If I want to let a friend use my rifle for the day, they can quickly adjust the settings to suit them.

It’s also great for my “do-all” hunting rifle. California summers mean thin clothing, but Montana mountains mean thick jackets.

The AT-One lets me go hunting in either without an issue since I can easily change the settings to match what I’m wearing, doing, or hunting.

In the interest of full disclosure…

I have to mention that this wasn’t the first AT-One sent to me, it’s actually the second. The first wasn’t cut correctly and was off by about 2.5mm, while that doesn’t sound like a lot – it was enough so that the action wouldn’t mount in it.

Boyds was on the ball though and had a new one shipped out to me in short order, the new stock had zero problems. Everything dropped in just perfectly.

Boyds Platinum

This is the classic, the wood stock that you think of when you think of “wood stock”. It’s also the stock that I would choose 9 times out of 10.

While it doesn’t offer the in-the-field adjustment ability of the AT-One, it can be customized when you order it for length of pull, grip, color, type, and a bunch more options. Boyds makes it really easy to get the stock you want right from the start.

It’s beautiful, strong, and lightweight. Everything you want from a good stock.

Don’t let the basic look of the Platinum fool you, either.

Boyds stocks are free-floated, have multiple attachment points for slings or bipods, and feel solid in your hands – something that is sorely lacking from most standard stocks these days.

Who is it for?

Everyone. Really, everyone.

From the new shooter with their Ruger 10/22 to the grandfather hunting his 1,000th deer, this is a great stock for you.

It doesn’t matter if you’re building your rifle from the ground up or if you’re just looking for an easy upgrade for a rifle you bought at a big box store, this is a great stock for you.

I think that is what I love most about the Platinum. Between the price point, the options offered, and the ease of installation – throwing almost any rifle you have into a Boyds is not only possible but can be realized without breaking into your piggy bank.

Take a close look at the picture above and you might be wondering why I have the scope mounted like that. I decided to use the Platinum to build a sort of scout-rifle -ish build.

Why? Well, because I picked up a Vortex 2-6x Scout scope on sale and wanted to play with it.

It actually worked a lot better than I thought it would! I’ve never been impressed with the Scout-Rifle Concept, but after building a sort of kind of version of it – I can dig it.

Shooting standing with a sort-of tree branch for support, my little Scout build put a respectable group at 75 yards. This is clearly nowhere near what the real accuracy of the rifle is (sub-MOA when shot off a bench with front and rear bags), but for standing and only slight support – I was happy with it.

Definitely proved to be minute-of-deer at least!

By the Numbers

Reliability 5/5

Zero issues at all with either stock, both allowed the rifle to work exactly as intended with no hiccups.

Accuracy 4/5

Both the AT-One and the Platinum were free-floated and that helped give me the accuracy I wanted, but since the stocks are wood and aren’t bedded I didn’t have as much accuracy as I know is possible with the Howa 1500. That said – both were still 1 MOA or better with every group using decent ammo, and that is more than enough accuracy for 99% of applications.

If you wanted though you could glass bed your action and improve accuracy by a small margin.

Ergonomics 5/5

Ergonomics are going to rely on you as much as it does on Boyds, since they give you the options of ordering the length of pull and other measurements that you want, you need to know those numbers before ordering. As long as you take the time to know what you want, Boyds will deliver right on the money for you.

Looks 5/5

If I could give a 10 out of 5 I would! These stocks look and feel even better in person than they do in pictures. If you want to see a boatload of options for style and color, I strongly recommend looking through the Boyds Gallery before ordering.

Customization 5/5

Colors, shapes, engravings, and a lot more are customizable when you order your stock. Take your time and pick out all the options you want!

Bang for the Buck/Value 5/5

The price is low and the value is high. You’re getting an almost totally custom stock for the price of mass-produced plastic, that’s just awesome.

Overall Rating 4.5/5

In all – I’m a big fan of these stocks now. If you’re looking to do a simple upgrade that makes a world of difference, this would be my top choice. If you’re looking to turn a standard rifle into your rifle, this is what you want.

But Wait, There’s More!

Boyds doesn’t JUST offer stocks for hunting rifles, they also have furniture for AR-15s, AK-47s, M1 Garands, M14s, M1 Carbines, and even Mosin-Nagants!

Bringing the same level of detail and dedication to military style stocks as they do to their hunting and plinking lines, Boyds has done an outstanding job of offering the market an option for nearly everything.

Parting Shots

Easy to install, high quality, wonderful to use, and for a price almost anyone can afford. Boyds does an outstanding job of delivering on every level and has been doing so for decades.

Don’t forget to check out my other article on the Howa 1500 Barreled Action! Combining a Howa with a Boyds makes for an amazing hunting rifle.

Do you have a Boyds gun stock? Let us know about it in the comments! And check out more of our favorite guns and gear in Editor’s Picks.

*My latest book, All Weather Whitetailsis now available!

Backing Out For Wounded Whitetails

Trust me I have heard them all, including: “It’s going to rain”, “the yotes will find him first” and “snow is coming”. Although some hunters may not admit it, I think you can even add, “I have to get home” and “I have to work tomorrow”, to the list of reasons not to back out. However, the hunters I personally know who experience nearly a 100% success rate for recovering mortally wounded whitetails, all have one thing in common: Patience. If “when in doubt, back out” is the king of whitetail recovery phrases, “Patience” it’s single root word of success.

Exercising patience with anything in life is difficult and the art of tracking a wounded whitetail is absolutely no exception. But, if you want to consistently find a deer that you just shot, you have to apply a whole lot of patience. The decisions that you make within the first few minutes after you shoot a deer, will directly dictate the rollercoaster of emotions that you experience for hours or even days to come. The reliable level of predictable tracking success is based on the behavior patterns of wounded whitetails.

Top Whitetail Blood Tracking Tips

*A mortally wounded deer will lie down within 200-300 yards (or first thick cover) and will expire in the time-frame of the specific hit. Unless pushed, this will be the final resting place for your deer. If pushed from this location, the deer will usually go in excess of mile or more, depending upon cover, with little to no blood trail. Unless you are extremely lucky the odds that you find your whitetail are extremely low, even if you only jump him 1 time.

*If raining or snowing, you dont have much to lose by waiting. If you have a good hit, the deer will only go a short ways, making recovery relatively easy, even with no blood trail! If the deer had a marginal hit, hurrying to track because of an approaching rain or snow will only push the deer and you have a great chance of losing the deer anyways. Do you have lots of coyotes or other predators in the area? Same thing…jumping a bedded deer will only lead to the same results of jumping him in the rain or snow. 1 jump and he is typically gone for good, so taking a chance that a predator finds him is better than the certainty that he will be lost if he is pushed to early.

*Just because you see a double-lung hit, doesnt mean thats what hit it was. Our mind has a way of tricking us into thinking we did a better job than we did (we practiced, aimed hard, took a careful shot-had to be good!). Believe it or not, a deers reaction is quick enough to completely avoid an arrow, even within 10 yards. If a deer reacts just slightly to the sound of the shot, your arrow can be no where near where you aimed. Also, do we always make a perfect shot?I know that I don’t, which is why I thought is was important to relay this informationt to you.

*Unless you see your deer fall, it is always best to wait until morning, or later in the day, even if you think you made a good shot. This practice has resulted in dozens of 100 yard tracking jobs that ended with a deer that had expired hours earlier. But I can also say that this practice has ended with at least 2 deer that were still warm to the touch.

*If you know you made a double-lung shot, with a heavy blood trail and plenty of bubbles, and are also confident you made a perfect shot; wait an hour and go get your deer. The problem with this is that it takes many years of experience and tons of confidence to determine exactly what situation and hit is yours. Each year there are many lost liver shot deer that fell victims to I know I shot a double lung, when in fact it was not. I consider all my deer trophies, and even if I know I shot a great shot, I still give the animal the time and respect it deserves to expire. If you shoot a buck early in the morning, go have breakfast, go shopping, call some friends or even take a nap (if possible!). An evening tracting job is the same-walk straight home, have a sleepless night, and go get your deer in the morning with no harm done.

*A wounded deer may only be 100 yards away when you exit your stand, dying, so it is critical to sneak out of your stand and away from the deer. Walking towards the deer only 10 feet could result in a fleeing deer that often will cover a 1/2 mile or more prior to settling down again. Remember, that deer really doesnt know what happened, he probably feels sick, and is doing his best to feel hidden, safe and comfortable. The moment a whitetail knows a human is after him, he is gone! It only takes a jacket being un-zipped, an arrow hitting a stick, or even an innocent cough or sniffle.

*Always look for the last place you saw the deer and mark with a tissue, tree, or other natural feature. Still follow the blood trail at the place of the hit to more accurately determine the type of hit, but marking the last place of deer sighting is a great reference. Over the years I have had to climb back into a stand after searching a bit becasue I did not mark the location I last spotted the deer I had just shot only hours earlier. Remembering a fallen log, odd tilt to a tree trunk or even an unusual opening in the woods are all great references for when you return to .

Crocodiles and great white sharks are magnificent marine creatures that intrigue one and all. Let us draw a comparative analysis between them.

Crocodiles are reptiles who live on land and water, whereas great white sharks prefer residing in deep waters and will not survive on land. Both crocodiles and great white sharks are dangerous, aggressive creatures who prey on smaller animals of the ocean. However, they frequently attack each other too.

There are several questions that people might have regarding crocodiles and great whites, especially when it comes to the critical differences between them. Today, we will answer some of the most commonly asked questions.

Image Credits: “Madagascar, crocodiles” by luc legay is marked with CC BY-SA 2.0.

Image Credits: “Great White Shark” by Elias Levy is marked with CC BY 2.0.

How are crocodiles different from great white sharks?

Crocodiles and great white sharks are two different species with several distinguishing characteristics. Let us learn more in this regard.

Crocodiles belong to the family of reptiles, whereas great white sharks are essentially a cartilaginous shark species. In addition, crocodiles can move on both land and water, whereas sharks cannot survive outside water and swim at a depth of 1200 meters or more. Besides, crocodiles are generally considered stronger than great white sharks.

Of course, there are several similarities between the two animals. For one, they are both fierce predators who prey on numerous marine creatures.

Will great white sharks win in a fight against crocodiles?

Image Credits: “Great White Shark” by Elias Levy is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Great white sharks and crocodiles are both predators and fighters. But, who will win in a fight against the other? Let us find out.

Great white sharks will win in a fight against crocodiles in deep waters but lose to them in shallow waters. Crocodiles are powerful creatures who can bite and tear apart their prey, and any smaller shark species cannot hold their own against them. However, great white sharks are powerful enough to prey on crocodiles.

We must mention here that great whites are also better swimmers comparatively and can see better in deep waters, which gives them an added advantage over crocodiles.

Crocodile vs. great white shark bite force

Crocodiles and great white sharks have varying bite forces. Allow us to tell you more in this regard.

The crocodiles have greater bite force, not just in comparison to great whites but also most marine animals. For example, crocodiles have a bite force of 3,700 psi, and their jaws are quite powerful as well, whereas great white sharks have a biting force that extends up to 4,000 psi, depending on the size of the shark.

We must mention here that in the case of great white sharks, the larger their size, the more powerful will be their biting force.

Nile crocodile vs. great white shark

Image credits: “Nile Crocodile basking” by Steve Slater (used to be Wildlife Encounters) is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Nile crocodiles and great white sharks are two popular oceanic species. Let us draw a comparative analysis between them.

Nile crocodiles attack anything and everything that comes their way, whereas great white sharks are more selective. As some of you might already know, great white sharks prefer eating seagulls and other shark species. They attack humans out of confusion but never deliberately, whereas there is recorded evidence of Nile crocodiles actively preying on humans.

Nile crocodiles are also known for attacking other crocodiles, small hippos, and birds.

Sea crocodile vs. great white shark

Image Credits: “Saltwater Crocodile” by thinboyfatter is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Image credits: “Great White Shark” by Elias Levy is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Sea crocodiles and great white sharks are intriguing creatures. Allow us to chalk out a comparative analysis between them.

Great white sharks are slightly bigger than sea crocodiles and can overpower them in combat, although not easily. Great white sharks are better swimmers and can maneuver through the ocean, especially deep waters, with ease, whereas sea crocodiles may not have the same swiftness.

Moreover, we must mention here that crocodiles cannot see as well as great whites in the water, which gives the sharks an added advantage.

Tiger shark vs. crocodile

Image Credits: “Tiger Shark at Sea World, Gold Coast” by kevgibbo is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Tiger sharks and crocodiles are dangerous, ferocious creatures. Let us together explore their differences.

Tiger sharks definitely have the upper hand over crocodiles. This is because they can move around better in water, have greater agility, and have sharp, powerful teeth with a strong biting force. Therefore, they can easily cut through turtle shells and attack crocodiles as well. There have been instances of tiger sharks preying on and eating crocodiles.

That being said, crocodiles are ferocious hunters too and often prey on smaller shark species, including young tiger sharks.

Shark vs. crocodile bite force

Sharks and crocodiles have different bite forces in general. Allow us to tell you more in this regard.

Crocodiles are the most powerful biters among all terrestrial species. They have a bite force that extends up to 3,700 PSI and has around 66 teeth that are four inches long each. On the other hand, sharks have teeth that extend up to two inches and have a bite force of 4,000 PSI.

However, shark teeth are serrated and therefore make it easier for them to cut into and tear apart the flesh.

Saltwater crocodile vs. great white shark size

Saltwater crocodiles and great white sharks vary in terms of height and weight. Let us tell you more about their size.

Great white sharks happen to be bigger than saltwater crocodiles and weigh around 6,500 to 7500 lbs, whereas most saltwater crocodiles grow up to 800-1600 lbs only. Besides, great white sharks and crocodiles have similar heights, with sharks growing up to a maximum length of 21 feet, whereas saltwater crocodiles grow up to 22 feet.

Crocodiles, in general, have a tougher hide which makes them more resilient to attacks, and they can hold their own against great whites.

Conclusion

Great white sharks and crocodiles are among the two most intriguing oceanic creatures. They are both highly dangerous and can get quite aggressive towards humans. While crocodiles attack quite indiscriminately, great white sharks prefer preying on sea lions, seals, and smaller shark species. Both these animals are threatened by overfishing and commercial exploitation, due to which it becomes essential for government bodies to take adequate measures to ensure their conservation.

Is your tree healthy?

Twig growth for the season should be from 3 to 24 or more inches in length. Bark growth cracks usually indicate that the tree is healthy. Tissue in the cracks should be bright green or pink when scratched. However, loose and discolored bark or unusually flattened areas on the trunk is indicative of a diseased condition.

Root Zone Management

Maintain an undisturbed soil area above the root zone if possible. (For management purposes the root zone extends out 1/3 the distance beyond the drip line of the tree. The drip line is the outermost edge of a tree’s foliage). Minimize grading, digging, trenching, covering the ground with asphalt or concrete or landscape plants, excessive foot traffic, or vehicle parking. Proper management maintains free passage of water and air within the root zone. The area extending 6 feet from the trunk is the most vulnerable and should always be left undisturbed and uncovered.

Pruning

Mature oaks do not require pruning except to remove dead, weakened, diseased, or dangerous branches. If pruning is necessary, trees should be pruned in the dry season. June and July is best.

Irrigation

Native California oaks have evolved in a Mediterranean-type climate where there is little rainfall between late spring and early autumn. As such, they generally do not require irrigation during this dry period and, in fact, trees may be adversely effected by supplemental watering during this period since warm-moist conditions can favor harmful diseases. It is particularly critical that the trunks of oak trees remain dry. However, if the winter season is unusually dry, then a supplemental irrigation in the early spring can complement natural rainfall. Water deeply, to one to two feet, in the outer two-thirds of the root zone. Alternatively, placing organic mulch under the tree can conserve moisture in the root zone by reducing surface evaporation. Mulch also inhibits the growth of weeds, which can compete with oak roots for moisture and nutrients. As mulch breaks down, it also increases organic material in the soil which improves water percolation, aeration in the root zone, and long-term nutrient availability.

Newly planted trees may require supplemental watering while they are establishing in the landscape. These plants may require irrigation up to one every month in the dry period.

Fertilization

A healthy, mature oak under natural conditions does not require supplemental feeding. The leaf litter and other organic debris on the soil supply nutrients as they decompose and release nutrients to the soil and roots. Supplemental fertilization may be needed when the organic debris is removed or when the oak exhibits disease or when growth is poor. Generally, young trees can be fertilized to establish them quickly.

Nitrogen is the primary nutrient of value to oaks. Prior to rain or irrigation, fertilizer can be spread on the ground to cover the outer two-thirds of the root zone. An alternate application method is sometimes useful. Fertilizer can be injected with water or placed in holes dug into the ground, 18 inches apart, along the tree’s drip line. Fertilizers should be applied at a rate of two to four pounds of actual nitrogen per thousand square feet of area. (For example, if a nitrogen fertilizer contains 20% elemental nitrogen, then 10 to 20 pounds of fertilizer would be applied per thousand square feet of area). Organic nitrogen or slow release nitrogen sources are preferable. Organic sources should be applied in late winter to allow the nitrogen to move into the root zone. Inorganic sources should be applied in late spring after the first flush of growth.

Compatible Gardens

Drought tolerant plantings can be incorporated into the landscape around oaks. Many California native plants, once established, may require little or no watering. Again, plantings within the root zone area are not recommended.

NOTE: The information on this page was excerpted from from Living among the Oaks, a publication of the Integrated Hardwood Range Management Program, University of California Cooperative Extension. For more information, click here.

Are you an old dog that can’t learn new tricks? Some seasoned turkey hunters get hooked on specific turkey calls and will often neglect the vast majority of other great options that come out. While it’s tough to argue with their experience, trying new calls can be a huge advantage. This is especially true with someone who has decades of hunting and calling turkeys under their belt. So why not try something new and maybe find your new best turkey call? While a glass turkey call isn’t by any means new to the market, some people seem hesitant to use it. In the video below, Michael walks you through a few reasons why you should really consider adding a glass turkey call to your turkey vest this spring.

Glass vs. Slate Debate

If you already use pot calls, there’s a good chance you have a slate call or two. And while slate turkey calls do produce deep and realistic tones that work great on turkeys (have we mentioned the Lights Out slate call?), they have some disadvantages in certain situations. For example, they usually lose their effectiveness when they get wet. A surprise rain event, high humidity, or dropping it in the dewy morning grass can all spell disaster for your turkey hunt if that’s the only turkey call you have with you.

Glass turkey calls, on the other hand, don’t lose their ability to make turkey sounds when they get wet. If they get soaked by the rain, you probably won’t be thrilled to keep hunting, but the striker will keep making realistic sounds as if nothing happened.

Michael comments “Typically glass calls run better when it comes to moisture in the spring, when you get a thunderstorm that pops up obviously being soaking wet causes a problem but glass calls typically run better in moisture..where a slate call has a deeper, richer tone, but water can completely clam the call up”.

Another benefit of a glass turkey call is that it can easily produce a hen’s raspy notes while also having a high pitch. So when you first start dragging the striker across the surface, it starts out very high pitched and shifts to lower raspy tones. This is a big advantage for cutting through the woods and reaching out to distant toms. The Sweet April glass call is a great choice for this. The tuned mahogany cup has glass over glass, and comes with a durable hardwood striker.

Best Uses for a Glass Turkey Call

As you can see, both kinds of turkey calls work great in different scenarios. And there are other types too (e.g., crystal, aluminum, ceramic, etc.) that work well – we’re not here to slam any of them. But with the benefits of glass calls discussed above, there are a few scenarios where a glass turkey call has the upper hand.

First, if you hunt in areas where high humidity is a constant companion during turkey season (i.e., the South) or you expect occasional spring showers, a glass turkey call is probably a better choice to take with you. Turkeys can be a little more predictable in the rain, so if you can stick it out and keep hunting, a glass call will help you much more than a slate call.

Second, we mentioned that glass calls have the advantage of being high-pitched. You don’t always want a super loud call, as it might spook toms or make them hang up and wait for a hen to come to them. But this high pitch can cut through the woods better than lower tones without being at a high volume. For this reason, a glass call can reach out and strike a turkey from afar very well. As an interested tom closes the distance, you can switch to a mouth call for the close range action, which eliminates the extra movement. But for that first contact at distant turkeys, a glass call is tough to beat.

“If I had one friction call in my turkey bag it would be a glass call…it has a higher pitch, and a higher tone typically than a slate call…its sharp, precise, cuts through the wind, so it makes for a great call to strike a turkey..some of those sweeter, more subtle calls are not as good at striking a turkey” Michael explains.

As we said, we’re not here to knock other turkey calls – they all have their place. But if you’re not already using a glass turkey call, you could be missing out! Michael is demonstrating the sweet april call in this video, take a look by clicking the link below!

Need coyote removal in your hometown? We service over 500 USA locations! Click here to hire us in your town and check prices – updated for year 2020.

How To Trap A Coyote Coyotes are an amazing successful species that is to be found across the majority of North America, and they have adapted particularly well to living alongside people. They can cause a problem when they come into conflict with domestic pets such as dogs, and have been known to attack livestock and other domesticated animals such as chickens and ducks. Coyotes can also prove to be difficult to deter when they find a good location for scavenging through garbage and other refuse, which is why many people will turn to trapping to solve the problem.

What Traps Can Be Used To Catch A Coyote? There are a number of different live traps that can be used to catch a coyote, although the problem with dealing with the coyote after it has been captured is that it will often have to be euthanized. The most typical type of trap will be one that will take a firm grip of the paw of the coyote and will not be able to be removed until the trapper comes to loosen it. This can be problematic because dealing with a live coyote isn’t necessarily something that a novice trapper should want to do. Another option would be a cage trap, but this will often have a much lower success rate than the grip trap mentioned above. This is because the coyote will naturally be wary of a metal cage and won’t be particularly keen to go inside. Positioning and baiting of a cage trap is vital if it is to successfully trap a coyote. The alternative when trapping a coyote is to use a lethal trap. The most popular trap of this kind is a simply snare, although there are a wide range of commercially produced products and homemade solutions that are also available. The snare works by looping a cord around the coyote’s neck and choking the animal, and because a coyote will naturally struggle and pull away this will happen very quickly. Locating And Baiting A Coyote Trap The first question to deal with when trying to catch a coyote is where to place the trap. Snares and grip traps are quite small so will not need as much space as a cage trap. The best traps will be those that naturally lie in the paths that the coyote uses regularly, which can often be identified near fences or field boundaries by looking for tracks or coyote hair. Coyotes will prefer to crawl under a fence even though they can jump over quite high fences, so these are particularly good spots to locate the trap. In terms of the bait for a coyote, meat is usually the best option as it will often attract the coyote from a distance away. It is important in these instances to make sure that the trap is not in an area where it is likely to attract domestic animals, otherwise you may well end up with a traumatized dog if you’re using a live trap. Handling And Removing Coyotes The majority of states will have specific regulations about dealing with pests such as coyotes, and these can vary in different parts of the country. Some places will insist the animal is euthanized, while others will have specific locations the coyote can be taken to. For those who are handling a coyote, wearing thick clothing and protective gloves is an absolute minimum, and keeping handling to a minimum is vital. Coyotes are known to carry rabies and many other parasites and diseases, some of which are transmitted by bites and others can simply be transmitted by contact. Anyone who is nervous or unsure about handling a coyote should bring in a wildlife control expert rather than taking any risks with the animal. For more information about how to trap coyotes, go back to my main coyote removal page or read the about coyotes page.